CWB97 Schoolwear

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER: THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

TRUTEX

54: CWB Independent Retail Awards 2015 The winner and highly commended finalists in the Best Schoolwear Store category.

59: News

60: Play it cool Totally Cool Clothing, a new range of UK manufactured schoolwear designed to improve the quality of life of children with sensitive and eczema-prone skin.

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SCHOOLWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Schoolwear NEWS: The latest news from the schoolwear industry.

CWB AWARD-WINNING SCHOOLWEAR STORES School Uniform Shop Hereford has been crowned winner of the Best Schoolwear Store category of the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2015.

The retailer was recognised as a pioneer in terms of ethical and sustainable sourcing policy for school uniform combined with an extensive, socially engaging approach to business and marketing, which includes support of overseas schools, fundraising and comprehensive on- and offline marketing activity.

The highly commended finalists of this category were Brenda’s in Camberley and Uniformality in Derby. For full coverage of the Best Schoolwear Store CWB award category, go to page 54.

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SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION FUNDRAISER SUCCESS This year’s annual Schoolwear Association (SA) fundraiser raised over £5,000.

Monies were raised via a 70s-themed evening do – Sunday Night Fever – on 11 October, after the first day of the Schoolwear Show.

Hosted at The Village Hotel, Solihull, the evening included a three-course dinner, karaoke and 70s music. The SA also held a raffle during the Schoolwear show.

The Association will use the funds raised to help promote the benefits of school specific uniform to schools, the press and national government.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

SMILEY WORLD INVESTS IN BTS Throughout 2015, iconic brand Smiley has continued to expand its presence in the Back to School (BTS) market with a total of 12 licensees offering a full array of BTS products.

Today, the Smiley Company is one of the top 150 licensing companies in the world, with over 230 licensees globally selling more than 13 million products year round. The Smiley trademark is registered in over 100 countries and in more than 12 product categories.

“BTS licensing partnerships continue to be one of our best performing licensing categories,” says The Smiley Company’s CEO, Nicolas Loufrani. “Our focus as a business is to create a total lifestyle brand and the BTS market is a key ingredient in this. By creating really trend-inspired style guides this helps inspire our partners to create a wide range of products that allow their consumers to express themselves.”

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BTS 2015 TRENDS REVIEW Over BTS 2015, retail consultancy, analyst and research report provider Verdict tracked UK parents’ buying behaviour for school uniform, which included 34.4 per cent of school uniform expenditure being online.

In relation to spend, one third of parents spent between £41 and £70, 17.1 per cent spent less than £20 and one quarter spent more than £91. Asda was the most shopped retailer, with 37.6 per cent of school uniform shoppers in July making a purchase. School uniform specialists were the second most shopped at 19 per cent.

Clarks was the most shopped footwear specialist and shirts and blouses were the most shopped items. Just under a quarter of parents bought shoes and a total of 13.2 per cent bought bags/ satchels.

Easy iron/non-iron fabric is the most important school uniform attribute for parents, followed by scuff resistant shoes; 60.7 per cent of shoppers would be prepared to pay more for the latter, allowing retailers to encourage trading up.

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– The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) will hold its annual National Conference and Awards Dinner at the Chateau Impney in Droitwich Spa, Worcestershire, on 11 May 2016. Catering for independent retailers and suppliers who serve the independent trade, the event will include high-calibre speakers, who will explore current trends for creating a sustainable future for retail businesses.

KERRY RANDS AND LEANNE GAINFORD RECEIVING THE AWARD ON BEHALF OF THE COMPANY

DEVELOPMENTS FOR ROWLINSON For the second consecutive year, Rowlinson has won the Best Employer category in the Stockport Business Awards, an accolade presented to the company at a ceremony at Stockport Town Hall in October.

Elsewhere, the schoolwear specialist has repositioned its Woodbank brand following development work to further refine the sweatshirt and improve both fit and comfort.

As a consequence, the garment has received extra brushing for warmth and has had the cuff adjusted for a comfort fit that holds its shape after washing. Colour retention has also been improved and levels have been increased to ensure it is always available from stock.

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– James Southall, parent company of Start-rite Shoes, which has a wide BTS footwear offering, has confirmed that Stephen Riley will be joining its Board as non-executive chairman. Riley’s appointment follows the recent announcement that Start-rite will appoint a new chairman and chief executive as Peter Lamble is to step down as the company’s joint chairman/CEO after 20 years.

Lamble will remain in a key, non-executive role on the Board.

– Digital image transfer specialist The Magic Touch’s ongoing collaboration with Oki in developing the ‘White Toner’ printer technology has been awarded ‘recommendation’ status from the industry’s leading computer and printer technology publication, PC Pro. The magazine features an evaluation of the TMT/ Oki 711WT printer, highlighting the unique features and advantages White Toner technology offers and praising the combination as affordable and easy-to-use.

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TOTALLY COOL CLOTHING | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

PLAY IT COOL Newly launched Totally Cool Clothing offers UK manufactured schoolwear designed to improve the quality of life of children with sensitive and eczema-prone skin. It achieves this through the garments’ linings, which are made from a uniquely developed fabric called BamSil. Laura Turner speaks to company founder Judy Micklethwait to learn more.

Laura Turner: What was the inspiration behind Totally Cool Clothing’s launch?

Judy Micklethwait: The inspiration was my eldest son, who had severe eczema from birth. It was incredibly hard to control, but one solution we found was in therapeutic undergarments prescribed by a dermatologist.

The introduction of these undergarments – or “bandages” as my son called them - marked his, and our, first good night’s sleep in eight years. Being so effective, I was keen for my son to wear the undergarments 24 hours a day.

However, this meant wearing them under his school uniform, which he refused to do for fear of being teased, so he only wore them at night.

The turning point came when my son received an invitation to a birthday sleepover.

He turned down the invitation because he was worried about his friends seeing his “bandages” beneath his pyjamas. I was devastated. It is bad enough watching your child feeling so uncomfortable in his own skin, but heart-breaking to see an eight-year-old so self-conscious they’d turn down a birthday party invitation. I desperately wished I could make his “bandages” look nicer, something my son would want to wear. After a lot of brainstorming I hit upon the idea of developing a clothing range with a discreet lining that had as many of the properties of the therapeutic undergarments as possible.

Something affordable to produce, that wouldn’t be classed as a “medical device” or one that infringed on other companies’ intellectual properties.

LT: Your experience as a mother of a child with eczema is obviously key to the concept

of Totally Cool Clothing, but did you have commercial experience to draw upon, too?

JM: Yes, I have experience in both the commercial and healthcare worlds. On leaving school I became a tri-lingual PA and worked at the political/legal arm of the American film industry for the Motion Picture Export Association of America. From there I moved to Paris, where I worked in advertising sales for American Vogue magazine, before moving back to London to work for high-end interior design house, Colefax and Fowler.

After that I changed tack and qualified as a physiotherapist, a short-lived career, as during my final year I met my husband and we started our family. This combination of experience has helped enormously when designing the product – balancing the healthcare requirements with the commercial viability whilst also meeting the practical concerns of busy parents.

LT: Where did you start research-wise?

JM: Once we had established the idea of doing lined children’s garments, I embarked on a two-year journey of exploration, enquiries and product development. I trawled the internet to check there wasn’t anyone else doing lined clothing; there wasn’t. The most closely aligned products I could find were knitted medical devices and silk undergarment companies offering products that most children wouldn’t want to wear.

Lots of people told me it wasn’t possible to achieve what I wanted to do. That was until I found a wonderful designer in Oxford who really “got me”. She designed and produced prototypes, patterns and specs and guided

me through the vagaries of the UK textile manufacturing industry. She introduced me to one of the UK’s top textile manufacturers, who has 30 years’ expertise producing fabrics for all sorts of large, well-known fashion houses.

This manufacturer understood and liked what we were trying to do, knew the properties I wanted to achieve with the fabric and, after a lot of discussion and sampling, developed a lining fabric, which we named BamSil. LT: What is BamSil? JM: It’s a lining fabric made from a unique blend of bamboo and silk, unique in that its percentage composition and yarn count is spun to our specifications and isn’t readily available. The yarn has thermo-regulating properties, serving to keep the wearer warm in winter and cool in summer. This also helps protect from dramatic changes in temperature – from a heated classroom to a cold playground for instance – which can play havoc with sensitive skin.

Because BamSil is knitted to a specific weight and gauge it allows good breathability and air circulation whilst preventing excessive moisture loss from the skin, which is very important for eczema sufferers. It is extremely absorbent, wicks sweat away from the skin and is exquisitely soft, soothing and comfortable.

The idea is to completely cover the body in good material that will help the wearer’s skin, not aggravate it.

LT: Did you carry out wearer trials?

JM: Yes, that was the next stage of research once we had samples and before we went into production. The first trial was with my son and NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015 - 60

TOTALLY COOL CLOTHING | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

the results were really incredible: his school work jumped up two grades because he could finally concentrate.

The next step was independent wearer trials, which we conducted through a marketing company. Prior to the trial, 50 per cent of parents reported their child’s skin condition as “poor” or “very poor”. After a period of wearing our garments, 94 per cent reported the wearer’s skin condition as “good” or “very good” and 84 per cent said they would buy our school uniform, describing the garment quality as “good” or “excellent”. Over 55 per cent of wearers said they found Totally Cool Clothing “more comfortable than their regular school uniform” and that they liked the style and colour.

LT: What does the schoolwear range comprise?

JM: We wanted to make the school uniform as accessible as possible, so we have started with generic schoolwear that is worn in up to 80 per cent of primary schools and a large number of independent schools. As children with eczema tend to take longer than most to grow to their full stature, they often need smaller sized clothing. To minimise the social impact of this, we decided to offer waist sizes rather than age sizes in our trousers and skirts but, generally, we cater for 5 to 12 years.

For boys, we offer a knee-length Bermuda-style short, an easy-care trouser, long-sleeved shirt and polo shirt. For girls, we have a slim-leg trouser, long-sleeved collared shirt, polo shirt and a pleated skirt, which falls in a flattering A-line shape. We have a girl’s gingham summer dress coming

“I feel very strongly that children with medical conditions have as much right to wear stylish clothes as children without, and in the schoolwear sector, there was a gap in the market.”

soon, too. RRPs are £41 for a skirt, which is in line with most good quality school skirts.

Trousers are £55, which includes a tailored fit to the required leg length. Most importantly, our RRPs are below the cost of having to buy medical undergarments – which cost about £50 – and regular school uniform. Our prices include both of these features combined.

All of the garments are easy to launder, machine washable, and suitable to tumble dry. They have been designed in flattering, modern shapes in durable fabric and the entire range is designed and manufactured in the UK in consultation with a leading paediatric dermatologist and experts in the textile industry.

LT: What are the signature design features?

JM: All items are fully lined with BamSil, including to the edge of the cuffs and collars, waistbands and down to the hems. Button stands and plackets are lined as well. All size adjusters are external to minimise irritation, all of the trousers are pull-up with elasticated waists, and all shirts have elasticated cuffs for ease of dressing. Our girls’ blouses and polos have softly-shaped, darted waists and gently gathered sleeve caps and our boys’ trousers are single pleated with two pockets and a mock fly. Additionally, all trousers are

sold unhemmed so we can tailor them to the correct length for the wearer.

LT: Who do you see as your core customer?

JM: Initially I see our audience being discerning, conscientious parents and carers who value their children’s health, education and well-being. These people recognise that children spend up to 70 per cent of their waking hours annually in school uniform, so it’s worth buying quality, comfortable and stylish schoolwear.

We have also generated interest from parents of children on the autistic spectrum with hyper-sensitivity to touch (hyperaesthesia), a parent whose child finds it difficult to regulate their body temperature, and people who just love the style and quality of our garments. The beauty of our schoolwear is that it is suitable for all.

LT: What is the company’s ethical stance?

JM: Our BamSil fabric is produced from Bamboo, which is a sustainable source. The fabric is manufactured in well-respected UK factories who pay their workers fair wages and provide good working conditions. We are newly signed members of the Schoolwear Association, which helps add further credibility to the brand. Going forward, we’d like to provide employment opportunities >>> NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015 - 61

TOTALLY COOL CLOTHING | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

and apprenticeships to young people to help them gain the life skills and experience they will need to progress their careers. We also aim, when we are profitable enough, to divert a percentage of our profits to causes such as the British Skin Foundation and The National Autistic Society.

LT: What is the distribution of the brand?

JM: We currently sell direct to consumers via telephone orders and face-to-face sales.

We are approaching schools, school uniform outfitters and childrenswear shops to explore wholesale agreements, and have already had interest from local schoolwear retailers.

LT: How are you promoting yourselves?

JM: We showed at the Allergy and Free From Show (AFF) North in Liverpool last month to launch our BamSil lined pyjama range in time for Christmas. We plan to exhibit at AFF again in July at Olympia; I have also been asked to speak at that edition. I visited the Schoolwear Show in October, which was a great networking opportunity, and I plan to exhibit there next year. I have also been invited to speak at a National Eczema Society Group meeting in March. Social media-wise, we have a Facebook and Twitter page and plan to start Instagram and Pinterest pages, too.

LT: Are there any plans to continue expanding the collection?

JM: We have just launched a range of pyjamas and will expand the uniform range to include secondary school children. There are a lot of potential uses for BamSil. Suffice to say, I have plenty of product development ideas. For instance, I’ve been contacted by cardiologists who have taken an interest in the fabric for post-surgery patients. Once we’re up and running, I’m planning a full clinical trial of garments so that medical specialists can recommend our clothing.

LT: What are the short and long-term plans for the business?

JM: Short-term, to establish the brand and a loyal customer base, consolidate and expand our existing ranges, and develop an ecommerce website. Long-term plans include going international, establishing department store concessions, carrying out large-scale clinical trials for BamSil, and continuing to grow the product ranges and market share while maintaining our reputation as an ethical, “quality of life” brand.

Our byline is “Sensitive Clothing for Sensitive Skin”. We provide products aimed at reducing irritation and the itch-scratch cycle and increasing daily comfort of the wearer whilst also delivering modern clothing. Totally Cool Clothing is intended to complement the normal management of sensitive and eczema-prone skin, allowing the wearer to enjoy their school day, focus on their work and help improve their self-esteem and social life. I feel very strongly that children with medical conditions have as much right to wear stylish clothes as children without, and in the schoolwear sector, there was a gap in the market. Until now.

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INFORMATION | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

NAMES & NUMBERS: A A.Andreassen Design 07810 442292 www.aandreassen.com AliOli Kids 0203 286 1451 www.aliolikids.com Animal 0845 026 7267 www.animal.co.uk B Baby Acorn 01244 360945 www.babyacorn.co.uk Baby Brands Direct 0845 370 8370 www.babybrandsdirect.co.uk Baby Grappling www.babygi.com BBbambino 07540 259961 www.bbbambino.com Blade & Rose 07920 752260 www.bladeandrose.co.uk C Cololo 07745 423058 www.cololo.co.uk Courage & Kind 0207 563 8532 www.courageandkind.com C.P Company Undersixteen 0207 608 9100 www.cpcompany.co.uk Craghoppers 0161 866 0500 www.craghoppers.com D Danefae 00 45 6914 9900 www.danefae.dk Diesel 0800 840 4249 www.diesel.com E Egg 0032 3781 2276 www.egg-baby.com F Froddo 01707 888388 www.froddo.com Frugi 01326 558 462 www.frugiwholesale.com H Hatley 0207 544 4833 www.hatley.com Hippchick 01278 434440 www.hippychick.com J Joules 01858 435258 www.joules.com K Keen 01572 772436 www.keenfootwear.com Kissy Kissy 01442 248099 www.finestforbaby.co.uk L Liberty 0207 734 1234 www.liberty.co.uk Love My Smalls 0207 002 7799 www.lovemysmalls.com

SUBSCRIP TION:

M Magnet Mouse 07766 142456 www.magnetmouse.co.uk Mitty James 01442 289898 www.travis.co.uk Molo 0045 8888 4040 www.molo.com P Pyrenex 0207 608 9100 www.pyrenex.com R Red Urchin 07810 565999 www.redurchin.co.uk Rowlinson 0161 477 7791 www.rowlinson-knitwear.com S Sarah Baily Kids 07545 539334 www.SarahBaily.com Scarlet Ribbon Merion 0203 633 0367 www.scarletribbonmerino.com

EU £55 (inc. p&p) Outside EU £94 (inc. p&p)

Shmuncki 07831 706154 www.shmuncki.com

NCWA & The Schoolwear Association members in EU £27 (inc. p&p)

Sorel 0808 234 0228 www.sorel.com

NCWA & The Schoolwear Association members outside EU £50 (inc. p&p)

T Teko 0800 032 3505 www.tekoforlife.com

To subscribe simply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069 or email: data@ras-publishing.com

Småfolk 0045 2330 7975 www.smafolk.dk Sunuva 0800 778 9789 www.sunuva.com The Magic Touch 01582 671444 www.themagictouch.co.uk Toby Tiger 01903 766777 www.tobytiger.co.uk Totally Cool Clothing 07763 837280 www.totallycoolclothing.com Z Zuma the Dog 07778 669680 www.zumathedog.com

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DIRECTORY | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

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CWB BUSINESS DIRECTORY WELDON AGENCIES Established for over 25 years, two generations, covering all areas of the UK. Representing leading brands from Europe and Canada, catering for boys and girls 0 to 16 years. Styling from contemporary to traditional.

FUN & FUN, LE CHIC, DEUX PAR DEUX, NO NO, BOBOLI, FOQUE, SARDON, LARANJINHA, ITTY LONDON Weldon Agencies, Southport, Merseyside Tel: 01704 576033 Email: barrieweldon@btconnect.com, andrewweldon@btconnect.com www.weldonagencies.co.uk

ROCCAPINA AGENCY Agency representing high quality International brands offering classic, colourful and chic collections for ages 0-14 years. Covering the whole of the UK. LA QUEUE DU CHAT, BABINÉ BB, STURE&LISA, LEMON LOVES LIME, LEMON LOVES LAYETTE Roccapina Agency, 20 Bramley Close, Cogenhoe, Northampton, NN7 1LY Tel: 01832 776588 Email: sales@roccapina.co.uk www.roccapina.co.uk

VAN HUIZEN AGENCIES Van Huizen Agencies is a young, fresh and vibrant agency, for the more discerning retailer requiring beautiful and unique collections.

OILILY KIDS, ROOM SEVEN KIDS, RAP SHOES, NOA NOA MINIATURE. Van Huizen Agencies, Unit 12, Derwent Business Centre, Clarke Street, Derby, DE1 2BU Tel: 07967 560633 Email: franck@vanhuizenagencies.co.uk www.vanhuizenagencies.co.uk

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TALKING POINT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MOUSE ALLEN Founder and CEO, Magnet Mouse Magnet Mouse is a new, innovative babywear brand that uses hidden magnetic fasteners in place of traditional, fiddly poppers. Company founder and CEO, Mouse Allen, discusses her business concept and how her brand is helping babies and infants to be stylishly dressed, quickly and with ease.

— Laura Turner: When did Magnet Mouse launch and what inspired the business’ creation?

Mouse Allen: Our website, magnetmouse.co.uk officially launched in August after two years of research and product design. In terms of what inspired the business, my father had recently had a stroke and found buttons difficult and I also felt the frustration of otherwise calm friends struggling to quickly line poppers up when dressing their babies. I just felt that daily life didn’t need to be that difficult.

These factors helped form the idea of a range of exquisite baby and infant clothing that had no fiddly poppers, but instead had hidden magnetic fasteners, which would enable a baby to be wrapped in super-soft style within seconds.

LT: What was your career background prior to Magnet Mouse and did it provide you with experience to draw upon?

MA: I used to work in the City, where I learnt that things were only as efficient and achievable as I made them. I also realised that perhaps I could build something that was more useful and longer-lasting than a spreadsheet.

LT: Who is your target audience?

MA: Anyone fed up with fiddly poppers. Our customers range from parents – including disabled – grandparents, midwives, maternity nurses, nannies and paediatricians.

Our motto is, “Because life is too short.” We try to reflect the dichotomy of the 30s to 40s age bracket, traditional on the outside, but a generation fuelled by innovation.

LT: What does the collection comprise?

MA: We offer sleep suits, bodies and bibs for babies aged 0 to 12 months. Our sleep suits have been the most popular product.

They provide the biggest solution and are the quickest to do up, whether on the move or in the dark. Our core colours are pastel pinks and blues with pretty detail, such as tonal or printed piping, on the collars.

LT: How would you sum up the style of Magnet Mouse?

MA: The clothes are very British – designed in London with classic, simple elegance. Collars help turn functional clothes into pretty outfits so we offer traditional Peter Pan styles with piping or pretty Liberty print ruffles. The Royal Prince and Princess are helping to revive our wonderful British heritage, both here and abroad, making classic style cool.

LT: As your products contain magnets, what safety testing did you have to carry out?

MA: We spent two years doing our research, consulting, and getting approval from doctors, including paediatricians and anaesthetists – the latter are routinely exposed to very strong magnets. We also had the clothing safety tested by Bureau Veritas, the global testing and certification firm. We wish we could claim some health benefits, like magnet therapy, but they do absolutely nothing. We’ve provided information on the magnets via our website.

LT: Are the garments washing machine and tumble-dryer safe?

MA: Yes, but to protect the shape and colour we recommend washing at no more than 30 degrees. We also advise to always close the magnets before washing and remove promptly after washing and/or drying.

LT: Are there any plans to expand the product offer over time?

MA: Absolutely. We’ve already designed lots of new products including shoes, shirts, trousers and duvet covers – the opportunities are endless. We continue to get requests from customers, too, so watch this space.

LT: Which is your favourite Magnet Mouse piece to date?

MA: The autumn pink body with a Liberty frill collar – the collar’s floral print helps to hide dribble brilliantly. This piece is from the latest range and it is adorable, especially gorgeous when paired with white tights and a burgundy cardigan or skirt.

NAME: Mouse Allen JOB TITLE: Founder and CEO, Magnet Mouse DATE OF BIRTH: 17 December 1980 PLACE OF BIRTH: London NOW LIVES: Kensington, London

LT: Which other childrenswear brands do you admire and why?

MA: I really admire Rachel Riley and Bonpoint.

Both of these brands believe that children should be beautifully dressed, as children.

They celebrate childhood. Gorgeous smocked dresses, puffed sleeves, piped collars, classic prints and colours, nothing garish or inappropriate – that’s what teen years are for, after all.

LT: Where do you see the brand in five years’ time?

MA: “Do you remember the awful time when everything had poppers?!” I would love to hear that phrase in five years’ time. We are starting a revolution. I hope in the near future our magnetic fastenings will be a modus operandi, not a novelty.

LT: Tell us something we don’t know about Magnet Mouse …

MA: Our mascot, Magic Mouse, is embarking on a series of educational adventures and rhymes, which will be downloadable from the website early in the New Year. My six-year-old niece is my editor and rather blunt critic.

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www.ohmykidswear.com