Mobile Bay Magazine - November 2019

Mobile Bay THE LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE FOR MOBILE AND BALDWIN COUNTIES

THE FOOD ISSUE

SOUTHERN NATIONAL’S

CHEF NUTTER

HAMS

IT UP +

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE OVER 100 GREAT IDEAS!

TOP 50 RESTAURANTS EDITORS’ PICKS FOR 2019

REMEMBERING WIMBERLY

A LIFETIME OF GOOD FOOD

LEARN TO LOVE BREAD AGAIN

November 2019

DUANE NUTTER comic & chef

2 mobilebaymag.com | may 2019

may 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 3

4 mobilebaymag.com | may 2019

may 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 5

CONTENTS | VOLUME XXXV / ISSUE 11

NOVEMBER 2019

48

The Business of Farming Stewart Perkins of Foley’s Nature Nine Farms takes an unconventional approach toward life and organic farming

QUADRUPLE CHOCOLATE SOURDOUGH. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

54

The Perfect Loaf For Deb Hopkins, breadmaking is an exercise in family, mindfulness and ministry.

63

Holiday Gift Guide 2019 Jump-start your holiday shopping with over 100 local gift ideas for everyone on your list.

 During the California Gold Rush, French bakers were responsible for bringing sourdough breadmaking techniques to Northern California, hence the name of the San Francisco 49ers mascot, “Sourdough Sam.” Pick up some breadmaking techniques of your own on page 54.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 7

CONTENTS | VOLUME XXXV / ISSUE 11

NOVEMBER 2019 21

24

ON OUR COVER Southern National chef and former stand-up comic, Duane Nutter, leaves MB in stitches.

PHOTO BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN

11 EDITOR’S NOTE 12 REACTION 14 ODDS & ENDS

22

16 MIXOLOGY We’re very thankful for this citrusy rum punch

RIBS AT RODGERS B-B-Q / PHOTO BY CHAD RILEY MILLS HAMILTON SAVORS A FALL APPLE FRITTER / PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU CHEESESTEAK FROM TRUMAN’S DINER / PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

18 FOOD Learn how to make the most of an autumn classic, the persimmon

34 SPOTLIGHT Meet the Mobile native behind the empowering Girl Be Brave brand

77 FOOD MB sets out to determine the 50 best restaurants the Bay area has to offer

96 ASK MCGEHEE Where did nutria come from, and did Mobile really have a nutria rodeo?

21 THE DISH

36 SPOTLIGHT An homage to the wit and talent of local catering legend Wimberly Hory

86 NOVEMBER CALENDAR

98 IN LIVING COLOR See Bay Shell Road, once known as the “most famous of all Alabama driveways,” in its full, colorized glory

22 TASTINGS Truman’s Diner throws it back to the 1920s and ‘30s 24 BAY TABLES Chef Bo Hamilton on cooking for the family

42 SPOTLIGHT Southern National chef Duane Nutter relates his winding journey to Dauphin Street

92 LITERATURE In an excerpt from his newest book, historian John Sledge writes of U-boats in the Gulf 94 LITERATURE Author Audrey McDonald Atkins takes on potlikker

 Potlikker, the liquid left behind after boiling greens, is packed with nutrients and vitamins that leech from the greens during the cooking process. On page 94, Audrey McDonald Atkins ruminates on the best method of potlikker consumption.

8 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Mobile Bay VOLUME XXXV

No11

NOV 2019

PUBLISHER T. J. Potts Stephen Potts Judy Culbreth

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Maggie Lacey MANAGING EDITOR/WEB Abby Parrott

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Amanda Hartin PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Virginia Mathers

ART DIRECTOR Laurie Kilpatrick

EDITORIAL INTERN Caroline Hunt

ASSISTANT PUBLISHER

EDITORIAL CONSULTANT

ADVERTISING S R. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Joseph A. Hyland Anna Pavao ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jennifer Ray

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

ADMINISTRATION CIRCULATION Anita Miller ACCOUNTING Keith Crabtree

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Audrey McDonald Atkins, Eleanor Inge Baker, Dooley Berry, Mallory Boykin, Jill Clair Gentry, Tom McGehee, Breck Pappas, John Sledge CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Carl Calderone, Matthew Coughlin, Elizabeth Gelineau, Elise Poché, Chad Riley ADVERTISING AND EDITORIAL OFFICES

3729 Cottage Hill Road, Suite H Mobile, AL 36609-6500 251-473-6269 Subscription inquiries and all remittances should be sent to: Mobile Bay P.O. Box 43 Congers, NY 10920-9922 1-833-454-5060 MOVING? Please note: U.S. Postal Service will not forward magazines mailed through their bulk mail unit.

Please send old label along with your new address four to six weeks prior to moving.

Mobile Bay is published 12 times per year for the Gulf Coast area. All contents © 2019 by PMT Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of the contents without written permission is prohibited. Comments written in this magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the ownership or the management of Mobile Bay. This magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork. All submissions will be edited for length, clarity and style.

PUBLISHED BY PMT PUBLISHING INC .

10 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

EXTRAS | EDITOR’S NOTE

In defense of food

T

here was a time in my life when I cooked just for fun. You could call it project food. I would flip through beautiful coffee table cookbooks, tear pages out of food magazines or search around on the Internet, looking for my next meal. After work I would swing by the grocery store. Every. Single.

Day. And shop à la European style, buying whatever was freshest to take home and prepare that evening.

I dove headfirst into different cultures, foreign cuisines, unknown ingredients and daunting methods. Some things were fabulous — hello, homemade enchiladas verdes! Some were a flop — I’ll never make falafel from scratch again. But through this food journey I learned to have fun in the kitchen, and I had the time to really explore. Chopping vegetables at the end of a day at the office was almost therapeutic.

Alas, those days are long gone. Now I am the Queen of the Crock-Pot and a regular at Taziki’s takeout, just trying to make it through my week in one piece. I still have shelves upon shelves of cookbooks with dog-eared pages, and my Pinterest boards are full of inspiring and exciting dishes. But I have to admit, my favorite time in the kitchen these days involves two tiny sous chefs and a big stack of banana pancakes. C’est la vie.

Given how much I love all things food, the annual Food Issue is always a favorite of mine and of many readers as well. This year, we chewed the fat with Southern National’s Duane Nutter, cooked at home with Ox Kitchen’s Bo Hamilton, made bread the slow and old-fashioned way and dined out every chance we got. But I would argue that truly good food starts with good ingredients, and so walking the farm fields with Stewart Perkins of Nature Nine Farms helped us grasp what it takes to bring home the bacon. And eat it, too. Dig in!

JUST FOR LAUGHS I CAN’T STOP GIGGLING AT THESE FELT HOLIDAY ORNAMENTS OF FAMOUS PEOPLE, LIKE MARK TWAIN, RUTH BADER GINSBURG, JERRY GARCIA AND FRIDA KAHLO. THIS BOB MARLEY IS GOING HOME WITH ME. FELT ORNAMENT • THE GARAGE STUDIO

LOVE THIS ISSUE SALT OF THE EARTH CUSTOMERS LOVE THIS TRUFFLE SALT SO MUCH, I’VE SEEN IT SMUGGLED INTO LOCAL RESTAURANTS IN A PURSE TO ADD TO FRIES AND MORE. BLACK TRUFFLE SEA SALT • THE HAPPY OLIVE

THE BIG DEBATE I LOVE AUDREY ATKINS’ DEBATE ABOUT CORNBREAD AND POTLIKKER ON PAGE 94. AND STILL THE AGE-OLD SOUTHERN QUESTION REMAINS — SWEET CORNBREAD OR NOT? I PERSONALLY USE JIFFY CORN MUFFIN MIX.

THE CHEW I MET CHEF NUTTER AND HIS BUSINESS PARTNER REGGIE WASHINGTON ON ONE OF MY FIRST ASSIGNMENTS AT MB, BACK WHEN SOUTHERN NATIONAL WAS STILL A DREAM ON PAPER. WE LOVED CATCHING UP AND DIGGING DEEPER FOR THIS ISSUE. MUSSELS AND COLLARD GREENS, CHEF NUTTER’S SOUTHERN TAKE ON FRENCH CUISINE

WHAT A STITCH HOW PRECIOUS IS THIS KNITTING AND SEWING KIT, JUST PERFECT FOR YOUR CREATIVE LITTLE ONES? SANTA BETTER HAVE THIS ON HIS SLEIGH. MOULIN ROTY SEWING KIT • CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

Maggie Lacey EXECUTIVE EDITOR

maggie@pmtpublishing.com

 MB’s 2019 Inspiration Home opens soon!

The builders are done, the designers are staging rooms and tickets are on sale. No detail has been overlooked.

Please make plans to visit this beautiful property. mobilebaymag.com/inspiration-home

WIMBERLY COOKS IT WAS AN HONOR TO REMEMBER LOCAL CATERER WIMBERLY HORY, AND A LOT OF FUN PORING THROUGH THE PAGES OF HER BOOK WIMBERLY COOKS, WHICH WE PUBLISHED WITH HER IN 1989! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TRACKING DOWN A COPY FOR YOURSELF AND DIVING INTO THE FOOD OF A BYGONE ERA!

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 11

EXTRAS | REACTION

Tell us how you really feel ...

WOODEN TREASURE

A BRIGHT SPOT

On June’s feature of the Bay’s best wooden boats

On September’s “Spotlight” of artist Sarah Otts’ new book, “To Be A Line”

I want y’all to know what an influence your article “Wooden Boats We Love” had on me. When I read Emmett Burnett’s piece and saw the photos by Matthew Coughlin, it immediately rekindled my lifelong desire to have my own Stauter. Within 24 hours of reading the article, I had called Sam Winter to inquire about his Delta Queen, and like all Stauter owners, he regaled me with the history and restoration of his beloved boat. Three days later found me, the extremely proud and excited owner of a 1962 (year I was born) Stauter! I am off to explore the memories of my youth with my grandsons, Hunter and Gaines. Thanks, MB, for always reminding me of why Mobile and Baldwin counties are such special places.

As a senior class sponsor at St. Paul’s Episcopal School several years ago, I helped oversee the creation of prom backdrops.

One day I watched Sarah create simple yellow swirls on an otherwise drab set. The backdrop came to life. I clearly remember thinking, “This girl sees the world differently from me.”

Indeed she does. And in a beautiful way. I can’t wait to read her book to my grandchildren.

STANDING OVATION On MB’s “On the Rise” concert A very cool, uplifting night of art and music. Thanks, MB. - Karl Langley of the Marlow Boys

GASTRONOMISTS UNITE On September’s “Tastings,” featuring Panini Pete’s newest restaurant, Squid Ink You gotta try this place!

- Debbi Claburn Moore The menu looks amazing, and so does the atmosphere.

- Stephanie Nematzhonov

Breaking Bread Don’t turn off the oven! We have one more incredible bread recipe from Fairhope baker Deb Hopkins (page 54). Go online to find her recipe for Country Farmhouse.

Get your Tickets!

Tickets to the 2019 MB Inspiration Home are now available for purchase on Eventbrite! The home, located in Fairhope’s Van Antwerp Park, opens for tours on Dec. 12.

BIG LEAGUE MEMORIES On September’s “In Living Color,” featuring baseball legend Leroy “Satchel” Paige The short profile on Satchel Paige made me think back on my visit with him when I was 15 years old. It would have been October 1962 when Satchel and a group of about 25 to 30 major leaguers made a “barnstorming” stop at Travelers Field in Little Rock.

I was fortunate to be selected as a clubhouse boy for one of the two teams, and my team included Satchel, Willie Mays and some other future Hall of Famers. Satchel pitched at least an inning or two, and I was amazed that an athlete of his age could still “bring it” to the younger players.

After the game, Satchel was so kind to me, and he was happy to visit a minute and sign my autograph book, not once, but twice. I still have the autograph book and many happy memories that go with it.

- Randy Taylor, Little Rock, Arkansas

 Want to share your thoughts and reactions? Email maggie@pmtpublishing.com.

12 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Find additional local stories on mobilebaymag.com.

Here’s what’s new on the website!

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

- Danny Rickert

- Wanda Sigler

[MORE ONLINE]

Home for the Holidays Ready to deck the halls? Get inspired with our online photo gallery featuring design ideas from some of our favorite holiday homes from the past few years.

Join Our Email List Finally, an email you actually want.

Get the latest in fashion, food, art, homes, history and events delivered right to your inbox. Sign up for our email list at mobilebaymag.com.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 13

EXTRAS | ODDS & ENDS

Feast-tivities text by MB EDITORIAL STAFF

1953

The first TV dinner was born after Thanksgiving!

Swanson had so much extra turkey (260 tons) that a salesman told them they should package it onto aluminum trays with other sides like sweet potatoes.

17th CE N T U RY

[ NOVEMBER 3 ]

NATIONAL SANDWICH DAY Check out all the great sandwich shops in our list of 50 Best Restaurants on page 77.

PUNCH INVENTED After beer went rancid aboard ships in the heat of the South Seas, sailors with the British East India Company crafted new sips from local ingredients — rum, fruit juice and spices.

Try our Thanksgiving punch recipe on page 16.

SORRY, WRONG NUMBER Every November, the Mobile office of Congressman Bradley Byrne receives a wave of calls about turkey preparation, due to a striking similarity between the office’s 1-800 number and Butterball’s

“Turkey Talk Line.”

Rather than fight the inevitable, past staffers have been known to print out turkey-cooking instructions in order to dish out the appropriate advice.

14 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

FORKS

OVER KNIVES Pilgrims didn’t have forks at the first Thanksgiving. They ate with spoons instead because forks weren’t introduced until 10 years later and didn’t become popular until the 18th century.

2019 JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION Chef Bill Briand of Fisher’s in Orange Beach was among the 20 semifinalists for Best Chef in the South for the 4th year. Congrats!

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 15

FOOD | MIXOLOGY

Packs A Punch This cognac, rum and ginger beer concoction will make for a thankful crowd. photo by ELIZABETH GELINEAU barware courtesy ANTIQUES AT THE LOOP

16 mobilebaymag.com | september 2019

Thanksgiving Rum Punch MAKES 1 GALLON 5 cups cognac 2 1/2 cups rum juice of 3 limes juice of 3 lemons 2 1/2 cups sparkling apple cider 5 cups spicy ginger beer lemon and lime slices, for garnish sprinkle of freshly grated nutmeg

Combine cognac, rum, juices, cider and ginger beer in a large punch bowl. Add ice to taste, or a large frozen ring of ice to prevent melting. Top with sliced fruit.

Serve by the glass with a sprinkle of freshly grated nutmeg on top.

DOWNLOAD MIXEL LOOKING TO GET CREATIVE? With an index of over 600 ingredients and 1,700 recipes, Mixel will show you cocktails you can make with ingredients you already have on hand. Created by Brewton natives Mitchell McMillan, brother Malcolm McMillan and Roy Brown, the app is set to go global.

The Mixel app can be downloaded on Google Play and the Apple App store.

september november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 17

FOOD | BITE-SIZED

Fruit of the Gods The peculiarly sweet — yet seldom used — persimmon adds an unexpected twist to tried-and-true seasonal favorites. text by DOOLEY BERRY

A

HACHIYA PERSIMMON

Round with a pointed tip, the Hachiya is astringent and should only be eaten when ripe or you will forever regret it. When the flesh is like an overripe tomato, it’s ready to use in baking recipes, smoothies or ice cream.

FUYU PERSIMMON

The squat Fuyu is nonastringent and perfect to eat raw like an apple. Slice it and serve with cheese and honey or dice into a salad with seasonal greens and pecans.

Remove the tough peel before consuming.

18 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

s a little girl, I was fascinated by the beguiling, orange tomato-like fruits that hung temptingly from the tree by my grandma’s porch. If you bit in before the fruit was ripe, the sharp, astringent taste would result in a “persimmon pucker” grimace. But, when soft and almost mushy, the fruit was deliciously sweet and almost irresistible.

All persimmons (from the genus Diospyros, which loosely means “fruit of the gods”) are native to Japan and were brought to America by early colonists. They are among the most underused fall and winter fruits, probably because many people are not familiar with them. Their honeysweet taste definitely deserves our consideration, however, when planning tradition-enhancing recipes.

The two most familiar types of persimmons are Fuyu and Hachiya.

The Fuyu persimmon is round and squat. When the tough skin is peeled and the firm fruit sliced, its sweet flavor can be savored as-is or used to liven up autumn salads.

Long and acorn-like, Hachiya persimmons are excellent for use in baking sweet cakes, cookies, breads or puddings. When shopping for Hachiya, choose those with flesh similar to jelly with a juicy feel. You can purchase them slightly underripe, but take them home and allow the fruit to ripen at room temperature before baking with them.

Keep reading for ways to use this brilliant orange “fruit of the gods” as a pleasant and unexpected addition to festive fall menus. MB

Persimmon Particulars Persimmons can be eaten fresh, dried or cooked into pies, cookies, breads or cakes.

Native Americans relished the ripened, sweet fruit, which they mashed with corn into a gruel.

They used the unripened fruit medicinally to stop bleeding and as a gargle to soothe sore throats.

In the autumn, when the leaves on the persimmon tree begin to fall and the fruit develops a cracked appearance, it is time to pick.

Persimmons are quite nutritious.

They contain vitamins A and C, glucose, protein, potassium, iron and manganese. They are low in calories, cholesterol, and sodium and are full of dietary fiber.

Ways To Enjoy Persimmons 1. Pureed Hachiya persimmons can be frozen and sprinkled over vanilla ice cream as a tasty topping.

2. Hachiya persimmon pulp can be substituted for banana or pumpkin when making quick holiday breads.

3. To make appealing appetizers, thinly slice ripe Fuyu persimmons, place your favorite cheese on crackers and top with the sliced persimmons. Broil until the cheese melts and serve to oohs and aahs.

4. Sliced Fuyu persimmons can be tossed together with sliced beets, mandarin slices and butter greens to create a festive holiday salad.

5. Ripe Fuyu persimmons are a fantastic and simple dessert when halved, drizzled with honey and broiled until caramelized.

Master Gardener, Dooley Berry, writes the “Beyond the Garden Gate” column and the “Baldwin Blessings” column for Gulf Coast News in Baldwin County. She lives in Daphne with husband Scott and their mastiff, Happy.

september 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 19

20 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

FOOD | THE DISH

Bite of the Bay MB’s contributing food fanatics share the local dishes that made them hungry for more.

CECIL CHRISTENBERRY, Owner, Old Tyme Feed & Garden Supply

BREAKFAST AT JULWIN’S RESTAURANT “This breakfast sampler is designed to fill the heartiest appetite and the hot, fresh coffee just keeps on coming with fantastic old-fashioned service with a smile! Two eggs any way you like, along with grits or hash browns, sausage, bacon, ham and two huge pancakes make this a serious choice for those of us who enjoy life in the morning.

I love the local, hometown atmosphere at this jewel on Fairhope Avenue!”

JULWIN’S RESTAURANT • 411 FAIRHOPE AVE., FAIRHOPE • 990-9372

RIBS AT RODGERS B-B-Q. PHOTO BY CHAD RILEY

MARIETTA URQUHART, Commercial Associate & Realtor, WhiteSpunner Realty

SMOKED BRUSCHETTA AT BAY BARBEQUE “I found my way to Bay Barbeque on Florida Street and ordered the smoked bruschetta with pulled rib meat. The portion was incredibly generous, with three of these hearty snacks served on baguette slices. The dry rub is made in-house, and the meat does not even need the sauce that they provide (although it is excellent).

It was served nicely garnished with fresh chopped tomatoes, scallions and chives.”

BAY BARBEQUE • 59 N FLORIDA ST. 408-9997 • BAYBARBEQUE.COM

LUCY PRYOR SLATON, President, Junior League of Mobile

RED LIGHT DISTRICT ROLL AT CHUCK’S FISH “If you are at Chuck’s Fish and are a sushi lover, order the Red Light District Roll. It has shrimp, tempura, spicy sauce and green onion inside and is topped off with crab, chili paste, eel sauce and a bit more spicy sauce, to add a kick. The whole roll is baked and served warm. Add some edamame and a glass of rosé for the perfect dinner!”

ERROL D. CROOK, MD, Abraham A. Mitchell Chairman of Internal Medicine, USA Health

RIBS AT RODGERS B-B-Q “The ribs from Rodgers B-B-Q were the perfect introduction to Mobile cuisine for our out-of-town guests. The ribs are tender and meaty, with the meat falling off the bone, and the sauce is a great blend of tangy and sweet. The traditional Southern sides of collards, macaroni and cheese, sweet potato casserole and potato salad rounded out a great meal.”

CHUCK’S FISH MOBILE • 551 DAUPHIN ST.

RODGERS B-B-Q • 2350 ST. STEPHENS

219-7051 • CHUCKSFISH.COM

ROAD • 330-0285

 What dishes made you drool and left you hungry for more? Share them on our Facebook page! november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 21

FOOD | TASTINGS

Truman’s Diner text by BRECK PAPPAS • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

I

t shouldn’t take long for a visitor to the new Truman’s Diner on Conception Street to sniff out the origin of the eatery’s name. His face adorns the logo on the front window, the doormat at the entrance and an enormous photograph on the back wall.

“Truman was a beagle,” says owner Bill Appling, smiling at the photo. “He had a really big personality, and he knew how to manipulate you to get the food he wanted.”

Downtown’s newest diner spot is a fitting tribute to Truman, Appling says. The fare is familiar and comfortable — think BLTs and half-pound burgers — and calls to mind the simple pleasures in life that a dog understands so well. Philly cheesesteaks, grilled chicken sandwiches and chicken salad round out the menu, and daily specials of fried chicken, meatloaf and poutine keep things interesting. “We’re doing food I grew up on, at a price point for the everyday person,” Appling says.

Appling, a seventh-generation Mobilian, grew up around the

restaurant business and has always loved the diner concept. But visitors to Truman’s will not find a jukebox in the corner and checkerboard floors.

“A lot of people forget about the roots of the 1950s diner.

Truman’s is more of a 1920s or ‘30s diner, so it’s less encumbered by flashy design. It’s wholesome and simple — it’s here to serve a purpose.”

That’s not to say the restaurant lacks personality. Appling also owns Antique Emporium on Emogene Street, and the diner’s decor reflects this second passion. Maps of Mobile from 1925 help set the scene, as does an antique door, which came from one of the 25 long-abandoned rooms of the Hill Hotel upstairs.

Natural light reflects off the glossy white walls, bathing the interior in a comforting, timeless glow.

“If I could put a screen door on the front and have it slap the doorframe every time, it’d be perfect,” Appling says. “It’s just that old kind of place.” MB

 Truman’s Diner • 14 S Conception St. • 250-7446 • trumansdiner.com 11 a.m. – 2 p.m. Monday – Wednesday, 7:30 a.m. – 2 p.m. Thursday & Friday, 10 a.m.– 2 p.m. Sunday 22 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

[ ON THE MENU ]

PHILLY CHEESESTEAK

HALF-POUND BURGER

TRUMAN’S B.L.T.

The best-selling cheesesteak sandwich is tough to beat.

Flavorful roast beef is topped with melted American cheese and slices of bell pepper and onion, all served on a warm hoagie roll.

Sirloin beef is mixed with pot roast brisket to create this one-of-a-kind, juicy patty.

Add cheddar cheese, lettuce, fresh-cut tomato, red onion and a brioche bun, and this burger gets two paws up.

Juicy tomato, spring mint and crispy local bacon shine in this American diner classic.

Served on your choice of toasted white bread or a croissant, this option fills you up without breaking the bank.

LAVENDER HONEY ICE CREAM Made in collaboration with Cammie’s Old Dutch, this sensational lavender treat is made with Truman’s Diner’s original honey, from bees raised in Spanish Fort.

HALF-POUND BURGER

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 23

FOOD | BAY TABLES

The Chef’s Table Owner of Fairhope’s Ox Kitchen spends an evening at home doing what he loves most — cooking. text by AMANDA HARTIN • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

H

is aproned 6-foot-2-inch frame hovers over the stark-white island, his graying temples crowned with a camo hat. “I’m an apron kind of guy,” Bo Hamilton, owner and head chef of Ox Kitchen says. “It makes it look like you are in charge, even if you’re not.” But it’s clear who is at the helm tonight.

They say the kitchen is the heart of the home, so it’s apropos this is where the Hamiltons choose to open up about their lives, including the genesis of the Bancroft Street restaurant. Also unsurprising is that this is where the family spends the majority of their time. Wife Molly takes a seat at

24 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

the counter, sipping wine and joining the conversation while keeping an eye on the children. A playroom added right off the kitchen in the 1970s ranch-style home is the perfect space for daughter Reynolds, 1, and son Mills, 4, to “pretend cook.”

Undaunted by the activity swirling around him, not the least of which is the family’s hungry-eyed dog, Madison, Bo meticulously studies pages of handwritten notes inside an aging leather-bound notebook, a possession he’s had a decade or more. “I’m kind of a nerd about it,” he laughs, pointing here and there to prep lists and menu ideas. Like most journals, some

details remain top-secret. But the amalgamation of his scrawled jottings is something Bo is excited to share.

“Almost all of the restaurant’s recipes were started, or at least worked on, in our little cabin in Jackson Hole,” Bo says as he finishes prepping ingredients, a Fairhope Causeway beer on hand. For five years the family lived in the ABOVE Bo Hamilton Wyoming resort-valley makes late summer town, the place Bo salad, pictured opposite, adding and fell in love with while mixing ingredients working as a cook at with a chef’s flair. His journal filled a dude ranch during well-worn with Southern recipes is college. “I worked on never far from reach.

LATE SUMMER SALAD Because Mobile Bay is graced with such a mild fall, we can get summer veggies fresh until Christmas!

Peas are less bitter if they are blanched in boiling water for 3 - 4 minutes and cooled.

SALAD

2 cups summer peas, pink eyes or similar 2 cups sweet corn, freshly removed from the cob 2 large zucchini, sliced about 1/8-inch and grilled with olive oil, salt and pepper 4 cups heirloom, cherry or grape tomatoes, halved 1 cup crumbled feta cheese 1/2 cup cooked bacon , crumbled 1 tablespoon fresh thyme

DRESSING

2 tablespoons wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and pepper, to taste

Toss salad ingredients in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk dressing ingredients. Add dressing to salad when ready to serve.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 25

Ox for a long time, and as I now know,” the Auburn-native says reflectively, “a lot of the recipes I created and the cooking I was doing at the time were a result of me longing for the food of the South. There is still no comparison to good Mobile Bay-style Southern food.”

“He just loves good food,” says Molly, a labor and delivery nurse, as she sets out serving bowls and dishes, most from Mississippi’s McCartys pottery. “You know it’s McCartys because of the black, winding line that represents the Mississippi River,” the Oxford, Mississippi, native says, turning her attention to the playroom. (The city of Oxford was the inspiration behind the restaurant’s name.)

Bo’s affinity for food might be one reason the chef has no qualms about leaving one kitchen and coming home to the other.

But there’s more to the story. “Cooking is my therapy,” Bo admits. Molly chimes, “He

“WHAT REALLY MAKES THE SOUTH — AND FAIRHOPE — DIFFERENT TO US IS THE PEOPLE, AND THAT’S WHAT GETTING TOGETHER IS ALL ABOUT. ” – Bo Hamilton

enjoys it so much. I’ll usually start cooking, and he will wind up finishing it.”

Atop the family’s refrigerator stands a row of well-loved cookbooks. Bo’s favorite is Frank Stitt’s “Southern Table.” Serving comfort food with a side of unpretentious conversation is about as Southern as one can get. But, if you ask Bo’s opinion, “What really makes the South — and Fairhope — different to us is the people, and that’s what getting together is all about. The food doesn’t have to be perfect; the people always make up for it.” MB

26 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

LEFT Four-year-old Mills Hamilton garnishes readyto-serve bowls of chowder made by chef dad, Bo.

GULF SHRIMP & CORN CHOWDER I like to buy our seafood from Billy’s Seafood in Bon Secour.

I also suggest having brews from Fairhope Brewery on hand.

2 tablespoons butter 4 slices raw bacon, chopped 2 1/2 cups onion, diced 2 cups celery, diced 1 cup leeks, diced 1 cup red bell pepper, diced 1/2 cup garlic puree 1/2 cup green onion, chopped; separate white ends from green ends 1 cup all-purpose flour 4 cups chicken stock 1 1/2 cups seafood stock 2 1/2 cups water 4 1/2 cups fresh sweet corn (cut from 4 ears) 4 large red potatoes, skin on, diced 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 bay leaves 2 tablespoons Old Bay Seasoning salt and pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon smoked paprika, plus pinch for garnish 2 cups heavy cream 3 pounds fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined

1. In a large pot, add butter and bacon. Cook until bacon is brown, and then add vegetables, including the white part of the green onion, cooking until veggies are soft and translucent. Add flour.

2. Combine chicken and seafood stocks in a container. Add 1 cup at a time to the bacon and vegetable pot, stirring with each added cup until smooth.

3. Cook until thickened, thinning with water as needed.

4. Add corn, potatoes, thyme, bay leaf, Old Bay and paprika.

Cook on medium-low for 1 hour, then add salt and pepper, to taste.

5. Add cream and cook for 10 minutes. Turn off heat, add shrimp and cook for 5 minutes.

6. Garnish with tops of green onion and paprika. Serve.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 27

OX SMOKED WINGS We use a white BBQ sauce that is also a top secret recipe, but a simple one follows. This recipe was perfected on our front porch while we lived in Jackson Hole, although fall was a little cooler and sometimes snowy there!

5 pounds wings, cut or whole 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons fresh ground black pepper 2 tablespoons Cajun or Creole seasoning, no salt added Frank’s RedHot Buffalo Wings Sauce, to taste

1. Lay wings out and dry as well as possible — dry chicken equals crispy chicken skin. Toss chicken with seasonings.

2. Put wings in a smoker at 250 degrees, and smoke for 1 1/2 hours.

3. Remove wings from heat and toss with buffalo sauce.

WHITE SAUCE 1 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons black pepper

1. Whisk all ingredients thoroughly. Serve with wings.

MISSISSIPPI SAUSAGE PLATE This is one of my favorite things to eat any time of year, but it really is perfect for the fall and college football.

My wife Molly turned me on to this simple appetizer at Taylor Grocery, one of our favorite places in Oxford, and it has been on our table ever since. Pickled okra from any supermarket is great with this as well.

2 pounds classic pork boudin 2 pounds smoked sausage 8 ounces sharp yellow cheddar 8 ounces white cheddar

8 ounces Creole mustard 8 ounces pickles 1 ounce Cajun or blackening seasoning, for garnish

1. Slice meats and cheeses and serve on a platter with pickles. Garnish as desired.

28 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

OX BRUSSELS SERVES 10

These are great by themselves and can be made with wheat free soy for a gluten free version. (Ponzu sauce is a Japanese condiment.)

2 tablespoon soy sauce 2 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 tablespoon lime juice 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon orange juice 4-5 pounds mediumsized Brussels sprouts 4 slices cooked bacon, crumbled Ponzu sauce, to taste 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1. Mix first 5 ingredients in bowl with a whisk.

2. Cut stem end off Brussels sprouts. Quarter each one.

3. Heat oil to 350 degrees.

Drop sprouts in oil until lightly browned and the stem end is softened. Remove from oil and let rest for 1 to 2 minutes on drying rack or a tray lined with paper towels.

4. Sprinkle sprouts with bacon and red pepper flakes.

Add Ponzu sauce. Toss and serve.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 29

CLOCKWISE From top Beautiful char marks are one perk to grilling okra.

Bo Hamilton uses his leather-bound journal to make prep lists and menus. Ranch dressing goes great with okra, fried or grilled! Molly Hamilton enjoys a plate filled with delicious Southern fare, prepared by husband, Bo.

30 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

OKRA, GRILLED OR FRIED Serve these next to each other on a nice platter for a beautiful contrast of colors. They are great drizzled with a little ranch dressing or by themselves.

2 pounds fresh medium-tosmall-sized okra, washed, dried, stems removed and split from stem to end

GRILLED OKRA olive oil, to cover okra salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a large bowl, combine half the cut okra with olive oil, salt and pepper.

2. On a hot grill, cook okra on both sides for 2 to 3 minutes or until soft.

FRIED OKRA

canola or peanut oil 2 eggs seasoned flour 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning 1 tablespoon black pepper 2 tablespoons salt

1. Fill large insulated pot 1/3 full with oil. Heat to 350 degrees.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk 2 eggs. In another medium bowl, mix dry ingredients.

3. Add remaining cut okra to egg wash and then to flour mix, coating completely.

4. Add coated okra to hot oil, slowly and carefully, and cook until golden brown.

5. Lay cooked okra on towel or drying rack to drain.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 31

FALL APPLE FRITTERS These are also good with apple butter, for dipping, or vanilla ice cream. This dessert is perfect for fall and is one of the few things both our kids will eat!

2 teaspoons baking powder 2 cups cake flour 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 4 tablespoons butter, melted 1 cup 2 percent milk 1 teaspoon orange zest 2 cups diced apples powdered sugar, for dusting

1. Mix wet and dry ingredients separately and then fold together.

Refrigerate mixture for 1 hour.

2. Heat oil in pot or fryer to 350 degrees. Scoop 1 ounce portions, and safely place in hot oil. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Place on cooling rack or a plate lined with paper towels. Lightly dust with powdered sugar.

32 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 33

PEOPLE | SPOTLIGHT

Girl Be Brave A grandmother’s handwritten message of just three words inspires generations of young women. text by JILL CLAIR GENTRY • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

C

heryl Hale Quinnelly has always had a knack for inspiring others. It started small — notes in her kids’ lunchboxes and sticky note quotes for herself and friends — but motivating others has become much more than a hobby.

Quinnelly, a Mobile native, founded Girl Be Brave in 2016 as a “movement to empower women with the knowledge that

34 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

they can do hard things” after discovering a touching note in the back of her grandmother Frances’ Bible.

“It was a letter urging her family members to live good lives,” Quinnelly says. “And the last line was written to my mom, who was just a baby at the time. She simply said, ‘girl be brave.’ Years later, while my mom was battling breast cancer, it was amazing that my grandmother had been gone for 20 years, but there she was, through the letter, telling her daughter to be brave.”

Quinnelly was inspired to begin writing motivational blog content and developing Girl Be Brave as a brand. Her products have resonated with women in almost every state.

“Our best seller is definitely the Girl Be Brave necklace,” Quinnelly says. “Its simple design makes it versatile. You can wear it to work or with a casual outfit. It goes with everything.”

In addition to necklaces, customers can purchase a wide array of “Girl Be Brave” products — yoga mats, water bottles, notebooks, coffee mugs, candles and apparel.

A portion of all Girl Be Brave’s profits are donated to local and national nonprofit

organizations and, this year, Quinnelly began a scholarship program, awarding one $2,500 and two $500 scholarships.

“A good portion of the applicants were women in their 30s who were returning to school after going through a divorce,” Quinnelly says. “It goes right along with the story of my grandmother. Frances had a very hard life. My grandfather left her, and back then, there was zero social structure to support her. Part of the reason I want to give scholarships is I know if Frances had been educated, she and my mother wouldn’t have suffered so much.”

Quinnelly personally manages her online community and connects daily with women who are enduring incredible hardships. In addition to blogging about nitty-gritty, reallife topics, Quinnelly’s social media supplies followers with a steady stream of original quotes, such as, “Believe in yourself and live out your gifts fearlessly. Abundance is waiting for you.”

Since 2016, Girl Be Brave has garnered over 55,000 Instagram followers and 116,000 Facebook page likes.

“For me, Girl Be Brave is all about helping others overcome obstacles, difficulty, pain and loss. I get letters weekly — from people all over the country dealing with drug addiction, rape, job loss, the death of a child, chronic disease, divorce — telling me how much Girl Be Brave means to them.

I’ve been through a lot of the same things —

it’s pain that binds us all together. Nobody escapes the hard stuff. We all have uncertainty and change, and we have to help each other get through it.”

As Girl Be Brave grows, Quinnelly says she is open to any opportunity to spread her message of hope, perseverance and empowerment. Last year, Nashville publisher Abingdon Press reached out to her about writing a book. In September, “Girl Be Brave: 100 Days to Chart Your Course” was released. The book contains 100 short, inspirational devotions for women.

“I was 45 at the time, and I know people spend their whole lives wanting to write a book, so even though I didn’t feel qualified, I knew I had to try,” Quinnelly says. “We presold about 10,000 copies, and the average first-time author only sells 5,000 total.”

Girl Be Brave’s recognition has put Quinnelly in the spotlight — something she’s had to accept as part of the process of helping others.

“I’ve always been a behind-the-scenes person, and this really pushed me out of my comfort zone,” she says. “But the purpose of this is to be generous and to honor Frances. She was the most giving person I’ve ever known. She didn’t have much, but she gave freely. I’m very fortunate that I’m able to dream big and make an impact in other women’s lives.” MB

 Girl Be Brave can be purchased at Black Door Studio in Mobile and on Amazon.

Check out some of Quinnelly’s inspiring merchandise in our Holiday Gift Guide, page 63.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 35

36 mobilebaymag.com | september 2019

PEOPLE | SPOTLIGHT

Remembering Wimberly Beloved local catering legend, Wimberly Hory, passed away at age 94 in June, but her recipes, wit and magnanimous spirit live on in the memories of family, friends and in her cookbook, “Wimberly Cooks.” text by ELEANOR INGE BAKER

L

ast June, Wimberly Dixon Hory passed away, but she is remembered as Mobile’s favorite cook and caterer from the 1960s through the mid-1980s. First out of the garage of her home on McGregor Avenue and then from her Old Shell Road location near South Alabama, Wimberly began making bread and chicken salad sandwiches for neighbors and then expanded broadly to cater weddings and large corporate events. In the introduction of her cookbook, she writes, “It was my son, Dixon, who indirectly led me to the profession. One day when he was just 9 years old, he came into the kitchen lamenting that he had no way to

earn any money. I had just taken four loaves of home-baked bread out of the oven, and I suggested that he might sell the bread to some neighbors for a quarter a loaf.”

Wimberly’s self-defined style was “Southern, and in the grand tradition of Southern hospitality, many of the recipes lend themselves well to festive occasions.” And that is just how she is remembered.

Her daughter, Ellen Hory Cooper, who worked with her mother for years, remembers, “She was always moving and laughing and never met a stranger. She was so much fun. People loved her and of course loved her cooking. And she never went anywhere empty-handed.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 37

She always had a package of cheese straws to give to the doctor or bread for a neighbor or fresh-baked cookies for the boys across the street.”

Lucky for posterity, she collected her trove of recipes and wit in her beloved “Wimberly Cooks.” A seasoned cook’s cookbook, her recipes there are plainly written and include many of the Bay area’s most beloved dishes.

Beyond her accomplishments as a caterer, Wimberly’s life was rich with adventure.

At 17 she moved to New York City for a year and danced in a professional ballet company, taking up residence in the famous Barbizon Hotel for Women.

Never stuffy, she branched out beyond ballet and even danced as a “bobby sox girl” with Frank Sinatra.

When she returned to Mobile, Wimberly worked at Brookley Air Force base serving coffee to the troops during WWII. There she met her husband, Al. As the story goes, Wimberly was on a date with another officer who had gotten terribly drunk. When she called her father to come pick her up, 1st Lt. Al Hory valiantly stepped in, offered to speak with her father and drive her home.

38 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Despite his being 10 years older, a Catholic and a Yankee from New York City (quite a scandal at the time), the two were married three weeks later.

Wimberly also had a lifelong love of Dauphin Island and called it “paradise.” After her husband retired, they moved permanently to the island.

There she took on a major role to bring St. Francis Episcopal Church down from Stockton to Dauphin Island.

As the 18-wheeler lumbered over the bridge with the structure, Wimberly is remembered as saying, “Here come the Episcopalians!” She also raised money for the church with a gumbo sale that helped fund the parish’s fellowship hall.

Wimberly’s joie de vivre endeared her to everyone she knew, especially her children and grandchildren. Her granddaughter, Garland Cooper Tsarouchas, gave the eulogy — a celebration of a life well lived — and remembered her grandmother’s delightful wit, penchant for a good time and generous and welcoming spirit. “I’ll miss cheese straws and vodka tonics, long days at the beach and homemade bread. She lived a long, full life.” MB

Cheese Straws (Past and Present) These delicious treats can be made by hand or with the help of a food processor (but be careful not to overwork the dough).

8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated 1 stick butter or margarine 1 tablespoon oil 3/4 teaspoon red pepper 3/4 cups flour

Put cheese into food processor and stir for a few moments. Add the butter, oil and red pepper, blending until butter is well mixed. Add flour, and then blend until dough makes a ball. Remove dough through disc of your choice. Bake at 350 degrees about 10 minutes or until straws are firm to touch.

George’s Velvet Hammer 4 oz. Kahlua 4 oz. brandy 1 quart vanilla ice cream

Blend ingredients. Makes a wonderful dessert.

Serve in wide top Martini or champagne flutes. More than one serving and you’ll think the hammer got you.

Cornbread Dressing for a 5-pound Hen (Wimberly’s Mom) 1 box Ye Old Time corn muffin mix 6 slices of toasted bread 1/2 small bell pepper 3/4 cup celery 1 medium size onion 1 teaspoon poultry seasoning 2 eggs (large) 1 1/2 cups chicken stock (prepared ahead) salt and pepper to taste

Toast bread slowly in top of oven until crisp and light brown. Break up into small pieces, put in deep bowl and pour hot stock over it.

Cover bowl and let steam. Crumble muffins you have cooked according to directions on the box. Then mix the bread and muffins together. To this add celery, onions and bell peppers which you have cut up and cooked in frying pan with some bacon drippings or about 1/3 stick of margarine. Cook slowly and stir often as you do not want it to brown; just cook through. Add other seasonings and the eggs. Mix well with a fork. Put into greased casserole and bake at 350° about 45 minutes or stuff hen. To stuff an 18-20 pound turkey make dressing four times.

Editor’s note: Recipes included are written in original “Wimberly Cooks” style.

40 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Libby’s Tabasco Chicken Plan this meal for dinner the same day.

In a 10 x 10-inch Pyrex dish or adequate substitute, ungreased, and prepared in the morning, put the following: 1 cup Uncle Ben’s rice 3 packages MBT chicken broth 1 tablespoon minced dried onion 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon parsley flakes

Pour 2 1/2 cups of water over the above ingredients and let stand all day. Just before baking, add: 6 chicken breasts skinside down on the above prepared dish.

Salt dish lightly. Mix together 1 stick melted margarine, juice of one lemon and 1 teaspoon of Tabasco. Pour this mixture over the above dish. Bake for 30 minutes; turn chicken skin-side up and cook until chicken is browned and rice is fairly dry; about 25 minutes. Bake at 350°.

Horseradish Dressing 2 tablespoons dry horseradish powder 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

Dissolve the above in enough water to make a paste. Cover and let stand for ten minutes.

Add: 1 small garlic pod, crushed 1 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup sour cream sprinkle of paprika

Mix well. Serve with meat or seafood — an Old Mobile favorite. An addition of 1/2 cup whipped cream makes it even better! november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 41

PEOPLE | SPOTLIGHT

42 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

It’s All in the Delivery Once known as the Mad Chef in stand-up comedy circles, Southern National’s Duane Nutter helped create one of Mobile’s most exciting restaurants — and that’s no joke.

text by BRECK PAPPAS • photos by MATTHEW COUGHLIN

I

f you’ve ever eaten at Southern National, chances are you saw him the moment you walked through the door. Stationed at a floating island outside the kitchen, Chef Duane Nutter isn’t begging for your attention; he’s not lighting things on fire or yelling instructions to the staff. Instead, he garnishes dishes, jokes with a table of customers, passes a piece of information through the kitchen window. He works with a magnetic charisma that attracts your stare, like the conductor of an intricate orchestra, and you find it’s hard to tear your eyes away. (His looming 6-foot-6-inch frame doesn’t hurt.) If you’ve been to Southern National, you’ve seen Duane Nutter.

On this day, however, Nutter sees me first. “I’ve been keeping an eye out for you,” he says, throwing a hand towel onto his shoulder. “I almost told you to just throw a rock at my window when you got here.”

Nutter lives in an apartment directly above the restaurant, making for a much easier commute than his last gig. During his nine years as executive chef of Atlanta Airport’s acclaimed restaurant One Flew

South, he says his drive in traffic was quicker than the journey from his parking spot to the airport restaurant.

While the decision to throw the chef out on an island in front of the kitchen is unconventional, it becomes clear that there’s nothing predictable about Nutter. He’s a celebrated chef whose favorite dish is a bologna and egg sandwich (more on that later). He’s a former stand-up comedian who voraciously reads himself down rabbit holes of culinary history. He’s a friendly giant who quit football after taking one helmet to the knee but drags that knee dangerously close to the pavement when racing his motorcycle at 150 miles per hour. “I’ve always gone against the grain a little bit,” Nutter says with a smile.

The Ingredients Born in Morgan City, Louisiana, Nutter spent the first seven years of his life below the Mason-Dixon line before moving with his family to Seattle.

opposite: Chef Duane Nutter says his role is to be “the backdrop to a good evening with people and friends. I’m just part of the conversation that y’all decide to have with me.”

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 43

“IT WAS THE FIRST TIME I’D SEEN SOMEONE OF COLOR DOING THE TYPE OF COOKING I WANTED TO DO. I SAID, ‘OH, OK. IF HE CAN DO THAT, I WANT TO DO THAT.’” – Duane Nutter on first seeing his mentor, Chef Darryl Evans

“That’s how I became a Seahawks / Saints fan,” he explains.

Summertime visits back to Louisiana to see extended family, however, ensured that Nutter’s culinary knowledge was built on a foundation of greens and fried fish, cornbread and gumbo.

“I was always fascinated with the kitchen,” he says. “My first burn was when I was like 5 years old. I was playing with my little Hot Wheels on the floor, and I heard all this noise coming out of the pot — they had put the crabs in the pot for the gumbo.

I pushed a chair up there … and the steam burned my chest.”

At 8 years old, Nutter created his first original dish, a fried egg, mayonnaise and bologna sandwich. “That’s still my favorite,” he says laughing. Noting her son’s interest in the kitchen, Nutter’s

44 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

mother came home one day with a gift for the burgeoning chef: a Teflon pan. “I’ll never forget, she came home saying, ‘This way you won’t burn up all the eggs!’”

Nutter’s culinary curiosity continued to grow, and by the time he reached high school, he began to consider a career in the kitchen. At 16, a chance viewing of the “Today” show sealed the deal when Nutter watched a segment about Chef Darryl Evans, the first African American to participate in the International Culinary Olympics.

“It was the first time I’d seen someone of color doing the type of cooking I wanted to do,” he says. “I said, ‘Oh, OK. If he can do that, I want to do that.’ So then I just tracked his career.”

Nutter secured scholarship funding to attend the culinary program at South Seattle College. After graduation, he began working two kitchen jobs, “saving up money to work with Chef Evans in Georgia.” Part chef and part detective, Nutter fondly recalls reading a magazine article about Evans, tracking down the phone number of the Georgia restaurant where he worked and leaving a message from the “pay phone outside of work by the trash can.”

To Nutter’s amazement, Evans called back.

“Are you thinking about moving?” Evans asked.

“I’ve got two jobs right now, saving up money to catch a flight out there next month,” Nutter said.

“Well, when you get to town, give me a call.”

Sure enough, Nutter booked himself a room at a Motel 6 outside of Atlanta, and Evans picked him up, driving the aspiring chef around and showing him the restaurants where he had trained. I ask Nutter what he thinks Evans saw in him.

“I have no idea,” Nutter says, “other than just knowing I was hungry, I guess.”

A year later, Nutter packed his belongings into his 1978 Cadillac and made the cross-country trek from Seattle to Georgia. But a job with Evans was far from guaranteed.

“I had to do a cooking test. He put four or five ingredients in a little pan, showed me around the kitchen … and said, ‘I’m going to come back in two hours, and I want to taste four dishes.’”

Four dishes later, Nutter had a job working with his idol at the Four Seasons Hotel in Atlanta. He was 20 years old.

The Right Stuff If there’s one thing that might have kept Nutter from the kitchen, it’s making people laugh.

“I was always pretty silly,” he says. “I either thought I was going to be telling jokes or cooking. When I got to Georgia, that afforded me the opportunity to do some improv classes. I kind of navigated myself to be the a.m. sous chef so I could go tell jokes at night.”

above: Humor and Stand-up comedy, Nutter discovered, cooking, Nutter is a grueling art form. It took about a says, go hand-inyear before he was rewarded with conhand. “We work sistent laughs, a year and a half before he long hours, so you gotta have fun and had 10 minutes of solid material. Comhave a sense of edy and cooking, he says, have more in humor.” common than you might think.

“Leaving out words in your [comedy] bits — you could get a 30-, 40-second laugh or a 2- or 3-second laugh, knowing where you can interject these things. It’s the same thing, if you leave out an ingredient, leave out a step or a technique … your whole dish can change.”

Creating a dish or crafting a stand-up routine, he continues, both require a point of view. It didn’t take long for Nutter to realize that, among his comedian friends, his day job provided him with a unique perspective. “I talked about being a chef,” he says.

Known as the Mad Chef, Nutter’s popularity in comedy circles began to grow. One night, he found himself opening for comedian Ron White. Later, he reached the semi-finals of Comedy Central’s “Laugh Riots.” Eventually, it came to the point where Nutter had a decision to make: Move to New York City to pursue a career in comedy or focus all of his creative energy on the culinary arts?

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 45

An unexpected opportunity with the National Peanut Board allowed him to flex both muscles. For the next three and a half years, Nutter experienced what he calls his “cooking gypsy phase,” leading cooking demonstrations from a traveling peanut museum in every state but Alaska and Hawaii. As he traveled, Nutter got in the habit of looking ahead at the next city, scoping out comedy clubs for open mic opportunities and fine-tuning his act. But when an opportunity arose to cook at the Ritz-Carlton in Palm Beach, his life as a comedian was put to the test. On the same day he undertook a phone interview for the job in Florida, he received a call from his improv instructor who was looking for a comedian to be in a commercial with Charles Barkley.

“That was the crossroads,” Nutter says.

“I said, ‘Man, I’m going to the Ritz-Carlton tomorrow.’”

Encore Nutter’s wandering days were far from over, as his culinary career carried him from Florida to Kentucky to Atlanta to Mobile. Today, glancing around the interior of Southern National from a seat at the zinc bar, he contemplates the restaurant he and business partner Reggie Washington have created on Dauphin Street. “In a weird way, it’s a concept born in an airport,” he says. In his previous role at One Flew South, Nutter says the airport setting forced him to reevaluate his identity as a chef.

“I was at the world’s busiest airport, and it seemed like it was my duty to represent the entire Southeast … That’s where this style of food was born from. Just me in the hallway looking at the people walking around, then I’d go back [into the kitchen] and think of something.”

One Flew South, Nutter acknowledges, “changed dining in airports across the country,” proving that a chef-driven restaurant could thrive in an airport terminal; during Nutter’s tenure, the restaurant received two James Beard Award nomina-

46 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

tions. (It was the first airport restaurant ever considered for the prestigious award.)

More importantly for Mobile, One Flew South is where Nutter began his working relationship with Washington, the Atlanta restaurant’s general manager. When the pair began considering opening something of their own, Washington, a Mobile native, urged Nutter to visit his hometown.

“It felt like Charleston before the banks came,” Nutter says of his impression of Mobile. They decided to begin their new venture in the Wilkins-Higgins building across from the Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, and, with the help of Atlanta’s Smith Hanes Studio, created an atmosphere that mirrors Nutter’s attitude toward dining.

“It’s contemporary but comfortable. You don’t necessarily have to get dressed up if you don’t want to … There’s a buzz when the place gets full and everybody’s having a good time. There’s a good energy about the place.” The dishes Nutter has created at Southern National reflect his journey — rooted in the South but inspired by his reading and world travels. Think black bean grits, pan-roasted salmon with an oyster gravy or a German chicken schnitzel (Nutter’s international answer to the Nashville hot chicken craze).

Just five months after its opening, Southern National was named a semifinalist for the 2018 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant, a shocking but validating development for Nutter and Washington. And while Nutter hasn’t performed at a comedy club for about a year, it occurs to me that he has found a way to perform onstage every night from the floating island, his dishes substituted for punch lines, his customers for audience members. Like any true performer, Nutter knows that dining, like comedy, is better when the house is packed.

“Food should be enjoyed with more than one person,” he says. “But sometimes that one person is good, because without that, the love of the bologna sandwich never would have happened in my life.” MB

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 47

The Business Of Farming Stewart Perkins puts his MBA to work managing a simple, natural life on the land. text by MAGGIE LACEY photos by MATTHEW COUGHLIN

I

t’s 4:30 in the morning on a small, 60-acre farm about a mile down a dusty road somewhere between Fairhope and Foley. The sunrise is still more than two hours away, but Stewart Perkins is awake before the cocks crow every Saturday morning, pouring coffee and getting ready for the farmers market.

He’s made this journey each week since starting his organic farm nearly 5 years ago, and he’s got the routine down to a science.

His wife, Kelly, helped pack a small refrigerated trailer the night before with cartons of eggs, plastic bins of lettuce and eggplant, and a chest freezer full of ground beef, whole chickens and cottage bacon. Everything filling the 6-foot-by-10-foot trailer was grown and raised — and in some cases, processed — right here on Nature Nine Farms. All Perkins has to do is climb in the small SUV and drive off towards a day of visiting with customers and selling the fruits of his toil.

He calls himself an outgoing introvert; his winning smile and easy conversation with customers belies a man who is happiest working the earth alone or with his wife and two small children by his side.

But time spent visiting with customers at both the Palafox and Fairhope farmers markets is an important part of Perkins’ work. An eager crop of educated consumers looking to source healthy, locally grown food makes its way around the market stalls, eyeing the offerings and chatting with farmers. This is how Perkins finds most of his customers, for a chance meeting at a market can result in a lifelong customer who shops seven days a week on his website or via email. These markets are Nature Nine’s lifeline.

Wake-up Call Perkins wasn’t always an organic farmer.

Not so long ago, he was a man living a fairly conventional life with a nine-tofive insurance job in Mobile, a mortgage, a car payment, a fiance and plans to get his MBA. He remembers working too hard, carrying too much debt and struggling to get ahead as he followed the traditional path in life towards the American dream. But Perkins’ vision for the future slowly began to change when he started binge-watching documentaries on Netflix about the American industrialized food system, organic farming and healthy eating. He followed with books such as “The Omnivores Dilemma” and “In Defense of Food,” introducing him to the idea that we have a broken food system: We use too many chemicals and antibiotics, grow animals and plants as big as possible as fast as possible on as little land as possible, and our bodies and the earth are suffering as a result.

While finishing his graduate degree in business, Perkins pored through books on organic practices, and by the time graduation rolled around, he had a new goal for his life.

50 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Hard at Work I try to keep up as Perkins explains the ingenious adaptations he has incorporated into his seeder, germination chamber, greens washing station and more. A small hand-built pole barn is chock-full of makeshift workstations where I can track the life cycle of his produce, from seed to delivery carton. Most steps along the way are aided by a hack of some household appliance.

The germination chamber is really an upright home freezer — the kind you’d have in your garage filled with unidentifiable packs of frozen meat and a 10-pound bag of Tater Tots. This adaptation is equipped with a thermostat switch that kicks on the freezer motor when the temps get too high or a pair of Crock-Pots filled with warm water when the temps dip too low. Whatever the sweet spot for the specific seed, this contraption can maintain it, creating the perfect environment to sprout, say, cilantro in the summer when you’d otherwise get nowhere.

Farmers have always been known for their ingenuity, their ability to overcome and improvise. It appears these traits have continued as well with the digital generation of farmers, like Perkins, who interact with more like-minded farmers on Facebook and via

top A red sex-links hen nests inside her food dispenser. bottom Perkins uses a knife to harvest fresh lettuces. opposite Beef from Nature Nine’s small herd of mixedbreed cattle produces about one-third of the business’s income.

“TAKING A COW TO A PROCESSOR IS HARD SOMETIMES. IT’S EVEN HARDER WHEN WE HAVE TO TAKE THE ONES THAT HAVE BEEN WITH US FROM THE BEGINNING.” – Stewart Perkins

blogs than they do at the local feed store. It was online that Perkins figured out how to hack a household dryer to make it a giant salad spinner for his freshly rinsed lettuces. He certainly improvises anywhere he can, but the majority of a farmer’s life involves good old-fashioned, backbreaking work.

Right on cue he shifts over to a row of radishes that needs to be harvested before the sun rises above the trees and wilts the greens. Kneeling down while be talks, Perkins tosses the scrawniest root vegetables aside, gathering the best looking hot-pink specimens into bunches, then securing the leafy tops with a rubber band and packing them side-by-side into a Rubbermaid. While working, he talks about wanting to grow and raise healthy foods without the immense amounts of toxic chemicals used in conventional farming. He believes food should be wholesome, seasonal and prepared with care. He also wants to set an example of hard work for his kids and to feel that his career has given back to the world in a positive way. Although the impact of a small farm like Nature Nine seems limited in the grand scheme of things, producing healthy food with minimal environmental impact for local families in Mobile and Baldwin counties and the Pensacola area is enough for Perkins.

Working Smarter What began as a meat-chicken business in April of 2015 quickly grew into a multifaceted farming operation, producing pork, beef, turkey, eggs and myriad of fresh vegetables, depending on the season, in addition to the fresh whole chickens for which Nature Nine first became recognized. But more is not always more profitable. Perkins has tried many products in his short life as a farmer, but he puts his MBA to good use monitoring spreadsheets, calculating margins and factoring percentages to best maximize his 60 acres.

Although he has never used his degree in the business world, the principles Perkins learned have been invaluable to his farming operation.

“There are so many things on the list for growth,” he tells me. “We want to

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 51

“WE ARE COMPLETELY DEBT-FREE. I DON’T OWE ANY MONEY TO ANYONE. WE JUST DON’T NEED A WHOLE LOT. IF THE ECONOMY TANKS AND I HAVE TO CUT BACK, IT’S NOT GOING TO HURT US. THAT ALLOWS A LOT OF OPTIONALITY.” – Stewart Perkins

take over another 15 acres, buy a bunch more cows, get a larger hen coop — this one is maxed out, we will be stretching it next year with 500 hens. On paper that all looks great, but we need a new packing and processing building first because we have outgrown our infrastructure. We’ve put a hold on that other stuff, we are putting a pause on growth.”

The demand, however, is still there. This past year, Nature Nine sold 170 dozen eggs per week, “and I was turning people away,” he says. The new processing barn will house a large walk-in cooler to help his produce and eggs stay fresh between deliveries and allow the farm to settle into smart growth.

On top of the everyday farm work, Perkins says that last year they built a house, had a baby and doubled their sales. “Something had to give,” he tells me, so Perkins and his wife decided to focus on the most profitable aspects of the farm first and only pursue other things when and if time allowed. He used his wealth of information about which products have been most profitable with the least amount of input, coupled with his desire to eschew debt and live simply, and for 2020 his streamlined plans include just beef, produce and eggs (excluding the herd of sheep that just refuse to be caught). Prioritizing is a big part of what keeps Perkins living and working in balance.

Growing Future The change in Perkins’ life from insurance underwriter and MBA student to organic farmer did not happen overnight. What started with documentaries and late-night reading led to time spent turning soil alongside his grandfather, a retired soybean producer from Fairhope. After completing his MBA, Perkins walked away from the high-tech, high-finance business world and never looked back. He instead pursued apprenticeships on small organic farms in Virginia, such as Joel Salatin’s Polyface Farm, where aspiring farmers flock to learn from the author of “Folks, This Ain’t Normal.” Salatin, a legend among those who follow the local food movement, was featured in both documentaries that were transformational for Perkins.

For two years, Perkins worked small farms in Virginia, learning to make cheese, raise cattle and plant using organic methods. “In Charlottesville, Virginia, there is a high concentration of small organic farms that are similar to mine. I’m kind of the lone guy down here.”

Living close to the land, however, does not have to mean living as simply as the Perkins choose to do. That desire to leave the conventional conveniences behind — like fancy cars, a big house or even (gasp) air conditioning — stems from a transformative mission trip to Romania that Perkins took while on his path to discovering organic farming. The people in Romania, he saw, had very little. Their main worry was growing enough food to get through the winter, yet they seemed truly happy and close with their families.

“Most of the folks on our mission trip felt sorry for them,” Perkins remembers, “but I envied them.” A simple life, close to the land, with his family nearby is all this farmer needs left Radand is what gets him up ishes, freshly harvested in at 4:30 in the morning the morning to keep Nature Nine sunshine, are headed to the moving forward MB washing station in preparation for market.

52 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 53

The Perfect Loaf Embracing the old traditions of fermented sourdough bread brings health — and warm hearts — to one local household.

text by AMANDA HARTIN • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

T

he crisp air turns the tip of her nose a light shade of pink, and she buries her face into the soft cowl of her tunic. She shimmies her shoes off at the back door and turns toward the kitchen, which is still warm from a day of baking. “It smells like Heaven,” Deb Hopkins says as she sniffs the air, her eyes closing.

Set atop her granite island is the source of the aroma — sourdough loaves in various shapes and flavors.

Mixed among the sights and smells in Hopkins’ Fairhope kitchen is something less visible but equally perceivable. There’s an enveloping, blanketlike warmth, a feeling she likens to “hygge.”

Pronounced “hoo-ga,” hygge is a Danish word meaning “coziness,” a particular quality sought most often during long, cold months. “For me, baking bread is very much part of that,” she says.

“It’s very comforting. What in the world is better than a warm slice of bread slathered in butter?”

Hopkins says that during her childhood, food merely served a utilitarian purpose. It wasn’t until she and husband Dennis married that a switch in her mind occurred. “I got inspired,” she says of her newlywed days. “I started having success in the kitchen, I enjoyed the process. When we had our first child, Sloane, I started thinking about nutrition in a different way.” So began her foray into breadmaking.

“We were grinding our own grain at that point,” Hopkins remembers, mentioning a time when their kitchen would be filled with 5-gallon buckets of wheat berries. But when Sloane began having food allergies, Hopkins dove into grain-free baking — and copious research. She discovered that people who have gluten sensitivities can often tolerate sourdough.

The reason, in one word, is fermentation.

To simplify further, grain sensitivity can be linked to phytic acid, the naturally protective coating found on wheat berries. “If the phosphorous found in the phytic acid is not dealt with properly, it binds to magnesium, zinc, copper and calcium, which makes it hard to digest,” Hopkins explains. “Every culture has some form of grain, but every culture has always soaked, or fermented, those grains before consuming them because of that acid. If you soak the grains, it allows enzymes and healthy bacteria to

LIGHT AND FLUFFY BRIOCHE MAKES 1 LOAF Brioche will stay fresh up to 2 days, stored at room temperature and covered in plastic wrap. Deb Hopkins makes this recipe as-is from “Artisan Sourdough Made Simple” by Emilie Raffa.

4 cups plus 2 tablespoons bread flour 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt 1/4 cup sugar 1 1/4 cups active starter 3 large eggs, lightly beaten 1/2 cup warm milk, whole or 2 percent 8 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cubed, plus more for coating 1 large egg 1. Add the flour, salt and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

Mix briefly to combine. With the machine running, gradually add the starter, eggs and warm milk.

Mix on low speed until a sticky, shaggy dough forms and all of the flour is fully absorbed, about 2 to 3 minutes. Cover and rest the dough for 15 to 30 minutes.

2. Fit the stand mixer with the dough hook attachment. On low speed, add the butter one cube at a time. Increase speed to medium and knead the dough until the butter is fully incorporated, about 5 to 7 minutes. When the dough is warm to the touch and looks shiny and smooth but will not come together into a ball, it is ready.

3. With floured hands, transfer the dough to a new, lightly buttered bowl. Cover with a damp towel and find a warm spot for the dough to rise, about 5 to 8 hours or more, depending on temperature.

Once fully risen, cover dough with lightly oiled plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.

4. In the morning, lightly coat a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with butter.

Remove wrap and place on a well-floured work surface. Pat the dough into a rectangle and roll into a log. Place into loaf pan, seam-side down.

5. Cover dough with a damp towel and let rise until puffy, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours or more, depending on temperature. The dough is ready when it has risen about 1 inch above the rim of the pan.

6. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Combine the egg with a splash of water and use to brush the dough until well coated in egg wash. Bake on the center rack for 40 to 45 minutes. If the loaf starts to brown too quickly, loosely tent with foil. The loaf will be golden brown and shiny when finished.

7. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely before cutting into slices.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 55

break the phosphorous down so that it can be easily digested.”

About six years ago, Hopkins resumed breadmaking, this time a little differently.

“I decided,” she says while slicing a loaf, “if I’m going to make bread, I might as well look at the best way for us to get nutrients and digest it. Sourdough was the answer to that.” Unlike traditional wheat breads that rely on yeast to rise, sourdough uses a “starter” made from only two ingredients: rye flour and water. After sitting, or resting, for days, microorganisms begin working and cause a reaction. “That’s the fermentation process,” she says, between bites.

Although sourdough can be traced back to ancient Egypt, it is an art that has perhaps fallen out of fashion, due in part to carb-conscious diets or time-strapped schedules. “I know it can be a little bit daunting,” Hopkins says, “but once you fold breadmaking into the rhythm of your life, it’s not a big deal.”

While it’s not a “big deal” to Hopkins, her family feels otherwise. “The liturgy of my family is that Mama makes bread,” says now 19-year-old Sloane. “We break bread together and have discussions. It’s restful and peaceful.” Younger sister, Skylar,

56 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

THE STARTER agrees. “Our home feels so welcoming when Mama is in the kitchen,” she adds, reaching for another slice.

As is often common with talent, sometimes it takes a stranger to point out the obvious. Hopkins pauses before answering a question. “I guess it is a form of ministry to others,” she muses. “Giving the gift of bread is the perfect way to check on people. That’s part of the joy; it feels special and intentional. My kitchen is one of the few places where I’m really present, really intentionally in the moment.” And it’s in this cozy space, where warmth and welcome collide, that Deb has found her niche, where she’s found her way to give.

One gift tangible, feeding appetites, and one unseen, feeding souls. MB

Hopkins stresses the importance of using a kitchen scale when making and maintaining the starter. Choose a jar large enough to allow the starter to double in size.

To make the starter, add equal parts of rye flour and water to a jar and mix. Cover the jar with a coffee filter or leave uncovered — air needs to be able to circulate. For the first two weeks, feed the starter twice a day, equal parts rye flour and water. After two weeks, feedings can be reduced to once a day, with equal parts water and allpurpose flour (instead of rye).

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 57

QUADRUPLE CHOCOLATE SOURDOUGH MAKES 1 LOAF

Recipe adapted from Emilie Raffa’s chocolate sourdough noir, included on blog, theclevercarrot.com.

3/4 cup active starter 2 1/2 cups water 1/4 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 4 cups plus 2 tablespoons bread flour 1/4 cup black cocoa powder 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt 1/2 cup each white chocolate, milk chocolate, and semisweet chocolate chips rice flour, for dusting 1. In a large bowl combine the starter, water, sugar and vanilla.

Stir with a fork. Sift the bread flour and cocoa powder together and then add to the bowl. Squish everything together with your hands until all of the flour is absorbed. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest for 1 hour.

2. Add the salt and chocolate chips to the dough. Lift and fold the dough over itself several times and squish with your hands to incorporate. The dough will tear slightly as you fold, and the salt will not fully dissolve. This is normal. Work the dough as best you can until it comes back together into a rough ball. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and a clean kitchen towel. Leave it in a warm, sunny spot to rise. The dough is ready when it no longer looks dense and has increased in volume about 1 1/2 to 2 times its original size, from 3 to 12 hours.

3. Divide your work surface in half; lightly flour one side (for cutting) and leave the other half clean (for shaping). Remove the dough from the bowl and place onto the floured section. You do not need to ‘punch down’ the dough; it will gently deflate as you fold and shape it. Cut the dough in half to make 2 loaves or leave it whole

HIGH-HYDRATION SOURDOUGH MAKES 1 LOAF for a single loaf. To shape, use a bench scraper to move your dough to the non-floured section.

Gather the dough, one side at a time, and fold it into the center.

Flip the dough over and place it seam-side down. Using your hands, gently cup the sides of the dough and rotate it using quarter turns in a circular motion. You can also pull it towards you to even out its shape. Repeat this process until you are happy with its appearance. Place dough into a clothlined 8-inch bowl proofing basket.

It will need to rise again, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. It is ready when the dough is slightly puffy.

4. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Line the bottom of a 6-quart Dutch oven with parchment paper. Carefully invert the dough into the pot. Make a shallow slash about 2 inches long in the center of the dough. Place Dutch oven with dough inside into the preheated oven, lid on. Bake 20 minutes. Remove lid and continue to bake uncovered for 40 minutes.

During the last 10 minutes of baking, crack open the oven door. This allows the moisture to escape, leaving your bread with a crisp crust. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before slicing. Dust with rice flour before serving.

58 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Deb also uses this recipe to make her Everything Loaf, with two exceptions: she uses less salt for the dough (only 1 teaspoon), and she spritzes the dough with water and adds her “everything” toppings just before baking. This loaf should stay fresh for 4 to 5 days. Recipe from “Artisan Sourdough Made Simple” by Emilie Raffa.

1/4 cup active starter 1 1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon warm water 4 cups plus 2 tablespoons bread flour 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt 1. In the evening, whisk the starter and water together in a large bowl with a fork. Add the flour and salt. Mix to combine, then finish by hand to form a rough dough. Cover with a damp towel and let rest 1 hour. After dough has rested, work it into a ball, about 15 to 20 seconds. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let rise overnight at room temperature, about 8 to 10 hours. The dough is ready when it has doubled in size, has a few bubbles on the surface and jiggles when you move the bowl side to side.

2. In the morning, coax the dough onto a floured surface.

Dimple the dough all over with floured fingertips. Gently shape it into a round and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line an 8-inch bowl or proofing basket with a towel and dust with flour.

Using a bench scraper, scoop up the dough and flip it over so that the smooth side is facing down.

Shape it again, and then flip it back over. Cup the dough and gently pull it toward you in a circular motion to tighten its shape.

Place into the lined bowl, seamside up. Cover the dough and refrigerate for 1 hour. You can chill this dough for up to 6 hours or more. When ready to bake, let sit at room temperature while the oven heats up.

3. Preheat oven to 500 degrees.

Cut a piece of parchment to fit the size of your baking pot. Place the parchment over the dough and invert the bowl to release.

Dust the surface with flour and rub with your hands to coat. Using the tip of a small knife or a razor blade, score the dough. Use the parchment paper to transfer the dough into the baking pot.

Place the pot on the center rack, and reduce heat to 450 degrees.

Bake the dough for 20 minutes, covered. Remove the lid and continue to bake for 30 minutes.

Lift the loaf out of the pot, and bake directly on the oven rack for the last 10 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 1 hour before slicing.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 59

SEEDED PUMPKIN CRANBERRY MAKES 1 LOAF

This loaf will stay fresh up to 1 day, stored at room temperature in a plastic bag.

Recipe adapted from “Artisan Sourdough Made Simple” by Emilie Raffa.

DOUGH 1/4 cup active starter 1 cup plus 2 teaspoons warm water 3/4 cup good-quality pumpkin puree (not pie filling) 4 cups plus 2 tablespoons bread flour 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt FILLINGS 1 cup dried cranberries, plus more for coating 1/2 cup pecans, finely chopped, plus more for coating 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract pinch each of ground cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon cloves 4 clementines (or 1 orange), halved 1 1/2 cups pumpkin seeds, for coating 1. In a large bowl, whisk the starter, water and puree together with a fork. Add flour and salt. Mix to combine until a stiff dough forms, then finish by hand until the flour is fully absorbed.

2. Cover the dough with a damp towel and let rest for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

3. In a small bowl, add cranberries, pecans, sugar, vanilla and spices.

Squeeze clementine juice over the cranberries and pecans. Stir well to combine. Do not drain.

4. After the dough has rested, add the cranberries and pecans, along with juice, to the bowl. Gently knead the fillings to incorporate filling, about 1 minute.

5. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let rise at room tem-

perature for about 6 to 8 hours, or until double in size.

6. Remove the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Shape it into an oval and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, line a 10-inch oval proofing basket with a towel and set aside. Spread the pumpkin seeds on a damp kitchen towel.

7. With floured hands, gently cup the dough and pull it toward you to tighten its shape. Brush the surface and sides of the dough with water. Using a bench scraper, place the dough onto the pumpkin seeds, wet side down. Lift up the sides of the towel and rock it back and forth to coat the dough.

Place the dough in the basket, seam-side up.

60 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

8. Cover the dough and let rest until puffy but not fully risen, about 30 minutes to 1 hour.

9. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Cut a sheet of parchment paper to fit the size of your baking pot.

10. Place the parchment over the dough and invert the basket to release. Make a long cut down the length of the dough using the tip of a small serrated knife or a razor blade. Use the parchment paper to transfer the dough into the baking pot.

11. Bake on the center rack for 20 minutes, covered. Remove lid and tent with aluminum foil. Continue baking for 40 minutes. Cool for 1 hour before slicing.

FOLDING IN TIME Hopkins acknowledges that baking bread can seem daunting. She went through several cookbooks before landing on Emilie Raffa’s “Artisan Sourdough Made Simple.” Raffa’s technique is easier for Hopkins to “fold” into her daily rhythm. The cookbook is available through Amazon.

Holiday Gift Guide

2019

MB makes local holiday shopping easier with over 100 great gift ideas for everyone on your list.

text and styling by MAGGIE LACEY photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

THE GARAGE STUDIO • PAINTERLY ORNAMENT • $40 SARAH B. ATCHISON • CRYSTAL NECKLACE • $179 SARAH B. ATCHISON • CHAIN NECKLACE • $134 M.A. SIMONS • GOLD FLORAL CUFF BRACELET • $65 M.A. SIMONS • GOLD FIGS • $5 M.A. SIMONS • GOLD PEAR• $11 SARAH B. ATCHISON • KEEPSAKE BOXES • $79, $129, $99, $139

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 63

HE’S BEEN OH-SO-GOOD AND DESERVES SOMETHING EXTRA SPECIAL!

Treat the Local Man

THE GARAGE STUDIO DRIFTWOOD CRAB ORNAMENT • $12

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION HAMMERED COPPER FLASK $119

RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER • RED BEARD’S ROAST COFFEE • $11

MCCOY OUTDOOR COMPANY DUCKHEAD 1865 FIVE-POCKET PINPOINT CANVAS PANTS • $99

THE GARAGE STUDIO • TOASTS AND TRIBUTES: A GENTLEMAN’S GUIDE BOOK • $17

URBAN EMPORIUM PLAYHOUSE SPICES SMALL $7, LARGE $13

THE GARAGE STUDIO BLOODY KNUCKLES HAND REPAIR BALM • $17

GIGI & JAY’S • SCOUT ANTI-BUG SUNSCREEN SPF 50 IN FRESH WOODS SCENT • $20

THE GARAGE STUDIO • JERRY GARCIA FELT ORNAMENT • $24

7 SOUTH • SWIMS OLIVE GREEN BACKPACK • $180

64 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

(KNIFE LISTED OPPOSITE PAGE)

Filled with beer or coffee, we won’t judge. ADRENALINE • 64-OUNCE VACUUM STEEL GROWLER • $50

Build a backyard bonfire without all the work using this portable log.

RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER MINI ONELOGFIRE • $11

The raw edge of a local, sustainably harvested tree keeps nature close at hand.

Playing golf at The Grand is no sweat. THE GARAGE STUDIO POINT CLEAR GOLF TOWEL • $31

RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER HAND-TURNED WOODEN BOWL $50

The backpack cooler with it all — including a built-in bottle opener and widemouth zip top.

He will love the soft feel of these new, old-school shirts. MCCOY OUTDOOR

RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER • OTTERBOX TROOPER COOLER • $299

COMPANY CRIQUET SHIRTS $89 EACH

7 SOUTH SHOP • OLD POINT CLEAR HAT • $28

Handmade in Gulfport, these Flynt Knives are a work of art. RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER • BLACK ASH WOOD-HANDLED KNIFE • $225

These bookends are noble and elegant, perfect for leatherbound books.

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION ZODAX DOG BOOKENDS • $83

Earth and fire make for rugged morning coffee drinking.

RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER HANDMADE POTTERY MUG BY FAIRHOPE’S ZACH SIERKE • $40

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 65

Dreaming of Santa’s Sleigh SURPRISE THE LITTLEST PEOPLE ON YOUR HOLIDAY SHOPPING LIST

THIS PAGE FROM CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION ALIMROSE TOBY LION • $32 HAZEL VILLAGE MOUSE • $48 FLORAL NESTING SUITCASE SET OF 3 • $44 BLUE NESTING SUITCASE SET OF 3 • $44 LINEN BUNNY ANGEL • $26 BUNNY RATTLE • $13 FLORAL HARDSIDED SUITCASE WITH BRASS HARDWARE• $55 OLLI ELLA SEE-YA ROLLING MINT SUITCASE • $85 ALIMROSE TOBY ELEPHANT • $20

66 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Little girls dream big with a doll headed to outer space. This NASA doll is ready to fly. BIG CITY TOYS NASA BARBIE DOLL • $20

Add a little Gulf Coast flair to your baby’s daily routine.

GIGI & JAY’S • LITTLE HOMETOWN AW, SHUCKS! OYSTER SWADDLE ($25) AND BURP CLOTH BIB ($20)

Every tot needs Christmas PJs to await the man in the big red suit. GIGI & JAY’S

A rolling basket takes the fun with you!

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION OLLI ELLA LUGGY • $75

SWEET DREAMS GINGERBREAD PJS • $46

A water boy’s first puzzle.

Endless colors, ready to zoom.

THE GARAGE STUDIO TUGBOAT PUZZLE • $37

Ready for the weekend.

COLLECTIVE GIGI & JAY’S • NATIVE KENSINGTON TREKLITE BOOTS • $66

BIG CITY TOYS • MICRO KICKBOARD • $155

The carnival is in town.

THE GARAGE STUDIO • FANCIFOLLIES TINY TROUPE ELEANOR THE ELEPHANT ORNAMENT • $20

Paris dreaming.

BIG CITY TOYS • PARIS PUZZLES

BY NATHALIE LÉTÉ • $34

M.A. SIMONS • ELEPHANT TEETHER • $18

BIG CITY TOYS • BRUDER STEER LOADER TOY • $32

Hark, your angel looks darling in this dress!

GIGI & JAY’S • PROPER PEONY HARK DRESS • $90

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 67

Wrap webbing bracelets come in colors for boys or girls, and are the perfect price to gift to friends. ADRENALINE

MB picks

• CHACO BRACELETS • $10 EACH

For the Teens

A hidden gold note inside says, “I love you.”

All ages have embraced these rubber bangles. SWAY • METALLIC

EX VOTO VINTAGE • 18-INCH MESSENGER NECKLACE • GOLD $79, TURQUOISE $139

BANGLES • $30 FOR 5

Kids love to lounge in an Eno. ADRENALINE • ENO DOUBLENEST HAMMOCK • $70

Soak pendant in essential oils for a refreshing whiff all day long. URBAN EMPORIUM • LISA WARREN HANDMADE POTTERY ESSENTIAL OIL PENDANT • $13

The packaging is as fun as the games inside. GIGI & JAY’S RIDLEY’S GAMES ROOM, BIZARRE FACTS QUIZ ($13) AND CHARADES ($15)

Bringing back the good old days with Pac Man, Frogger and more in a nifty handheld size.

BIG CITY TOYS • FROGGER HANDHELD ARCADE GAME • $13

The girls are gaga for these hair tie/ bracelets. GIGI & JAYS • TELETIES • $8 EACH

Every little man needs to feel all grown up sometimes, and this dop kit is just the ticket. MCCOY OUTDOOR COMPANY • FILSON TRAVEL KIT • $125

68 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Inspire her to take on the world. BLACK DOOR STUDIO • GIRL BE BRAVE NECKLACE • $40

Keep this sweet message hanging all year long. BLACK DOOR STUDIO • GIRL BE BRAVE ORNAMENT • $20

A great gift idea in a pinch.

URBAN EMPORIUM SOCK GAME’S CRAB SOCKS • $10

As cute in your hair as it is on your wrist. GIGI & JAY’S SCRUNCHIES • $7 URBAN EMPORIUM • PEARL-STUDDED HEADBANDS • $25 EACH

Fanny packs are back in a big way. ADRENALINE • PATAGONIA FANNY PACK • $29

Stylish city vibes.

MCCOY OUTDOOR COMPANY • 1702 MOBILE SHIELD BALLCAP • $25

Dude. Get this game.

FANTASY ISLAND TOYS AT URBAN EMPORIUM • DUDE CARD GAME • $15

Words to inspire, words to live by. EX VOTO • $58 EACH

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 69

All the Ladies on the List Super soft leather and a luxe look.

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION • VIVO STUDIOS CROSS BODY BAG WITH TASSEL • $385

OUR FAVORITE PICKS FOR YOUR MOM, SISTER, BEST FRIEND OR WONDERFUL WIFE

A pop of color with an amazing price. HEMLINE • YELLOW THREAD HOOP AND BALL EARRINGS • $20

Crisp cotton ready to tie onto anything.

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION HEMLOCK SCARF • $14

M.A. SIMONS • PLASTER HAND SCULPTURE • $129

SARAH B. ATCHISON CHUNKY QUARTZ NECKLACE • $179

70 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

SARAH B. ATCHISON • GLASS STORAGE BOX WITH AGATE CLOSURE • $79

SARAH B. ATCHISON • WE DREAM IN COLOR TWO-TONE CHAIN NECKLACE • $134

Relax and realign with soft cork underfoot. RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER • ECOSTRENGTH CORK YOGA MAT • $60

A mix of metals in this artfully created cuff.

SWAY • COPPER AND GOLD CUFF BRACELET • $30

The perfect pop with any outfit. THE GARAGE STUDIO • COLORED CHIP STRETCHY BRACELETS • $18

Artsy and cool with a smoking hot price. SWAY BLACK ART NOUVEAU EARRINGS • $32

Handmade pottery has imprints and alluring colors on both the front and back. THE GARAGE STUDIO LACE POTTERY • ROUND $70, RECTANGLE $85

The perfect grab-n-go clutch. THE GARAGE STUDIO

Beautiful stones and shiny brass make a girl’s heart go pitter patter. BLACK DOOR STUDIO

CAMO HIDE CLUTCH • $130

STONE CUFFS • $145 EACH

Bold and fun with color for days.

SWAY • DISC HOOP EARRINGS $30

Super chic turquoise cuff that goes with everything. BLACK DOOR STUDIO • STONE CUFF • $165

An assortment of famous figures made from felt to adorn your tree will keep everyone giggling and intrigued.

THE GARAGE STUDIO • FAMOUS FIGURES FELT ORNAMENTS • $24 EACH

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 71

WHERE TO SHOP THE BAY AREA IS FULL OF SHOPS WITH HARD-TO-FIND AND NEVER-BEFORE-SEEN GIFTS FOR EVERYONE ON YOUR LIST. SHOP LOCAL THIS YEAR!

Mary and child cross keeps the vision of Christ in the holiday. VISITATION MONASTERY PRAYERS ON THE SIDE • $55

RESOURCES 7 SOUTH 7 S SECTION ST., FAIRHOPE. 270-7298.

ADRENALINE 328 FAIRHOPE AVE., FAIRHOPE. 990-0699.

BLACK DOOR STUDIO 456 N MCGREGOR AVE., 304-3200.

BIG CITY TOYS 4504 OLD SHELL ROAD. 308-8997.

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION 19130 SCENIC HIGHWAY 98, FAIRHOPE. 929-1630.

EX VOTO 225 FAIRHOPE AVE., FAIRHOPE. 517-7185.

THE GARAGE STUDIO 17070 SCENIC HIGHWAY 98, POINT CLEAR. 928-3474.

Luxe soy candles with scents named for area locales. URBAN EMPORIUM • MOBILE BAY, DOG RIVER AND GULF SHORES COASTAL CANDLES • $14 EACH

GIGI & JAY’S 400 FAIRHOPE AVE., FAIRHOPE. 928-2011.

HEMLINE 4356, OLD SHELL ROAD, 287-6875.

M.A. SIMONS 2151 OLD SHELL ROAD. 479-4350.

MCCOY OUTDOOR COMPANY 3498 SPRINGHILL AVE. 473-1080.

RED BEARD’S OUTFITTER 4354 OLD SHELL ROAD. 217-7466.

SARAH B. ATCHISON’S 2602 OLD SHELL ROAD. 473-4086.

SWAY 324 FAIRHOPE AVE., FAIRHOPE. 990-2282.

URBAN EMPORIUM 260 DAUPHN STREET. 441-8044.

THE VISITATION SHOP 2300 SPRINGHILL AVE. 471-4106.

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION TESSITURA PARDI TEA TOWELS • $34 EACH

Meant to hold tiny treasures and thoughtful gestures. CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION MINIATURE BAUBLES STOCKING • $85 EACH M.A. SIMONS • GOLD HOOP EARRINGS • $25

72 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 73

74 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 75

50 BEST

MB EDITORS DISH OUT OUR BAY-AREA FAVORITES.

RESTAURANTS

SUGAR RUSH BURGER FROM LODA BIERGARTEN

PHOTO BY ELISE POCHÉ

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 77

Fine Dining Camellia Café Best Bite: Flame-grilled artichoke with Parmesan and clarified butter Ryan Glass, owner and chef at this sophisticated Fairhope café, specializes in crowd-pleasing steak tartare, fresh-from-the-boat fish dishes and addictive truffle fries served in a cleanly-designed dining room.

Chuck’s Fish Best Bite: Gulf fish “Parmadine,” with crabmeat, Parmesan, roasted almonds and Gouda grit cake As the name alludes, Chuck’s offers fresh, Gulfto-table seafood. Not feeling fishy? This two-story Downtown hot spot is also known for its naturallyraised beef and awardwinning sushi bar.

Dauphin’s Best Bite: Sweet and spicy pecan-crusted fish with citrus beurre blanc and tropical mango salsa Located 424 feet in the air at the top of the Trustmark Bank Building, Dauphin’s offers upscale menu items, ranging from venison carpaccio to gorgonzola, pear and baby spinach salad. “Smoking bonbons” for dessert add the perfect meal-ending flare.

Dumbwaiter Best Bite: New South Brussels sprouts cooked with bacon lardons, shaved red onion and honey balsamic dressing

Though the name and location (Bienville Square) of Dumbwaiter restaurant may be historic, the atmosphere brings a new flare to old style. Wes and Dana Lamberts’ restaurant menu includes classic items such as shrimp and grits and the Alabama Benedict.

Fairhope Inn Best Bite: Pan seared diver scallops with balsamic glaze The Fairhope Inn and Restaurant aims to maintain a charming feel throughout the historic cottage in the heart of Fairhope. The charm of the Inn extends throughout the menu, including roasted oysters, caramelized banana crepes and roasted beet salad.

Felix’s Best Bite: Fresh catch with jumbo lump crabmeat Oscar and rich hollandaise sauce Locals can enjoy fresh seafood as well as live music and stunning views from Felix’s Fish Camp on the Causeway. Creamy crab bisque, seared ahi tuna and classic Mobile recipes are among the variety of seafood offerings.

FIVE Best Bite: Ms. Anne’s fried chicken, served only on Sundays Downtown Mobile’s FIVE restaurant makes dining out a bit easier, with a menu that includes only five dinners, five white wines and five red wines. All products are sourced locally, made from scratch and served in a hipped-up atmosphere.

78 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Guidos Best Bite: Crawfish penne with andouille and tomato cream Located in a warm red brick building in Daphne, Guido’s Regional Cuisine is a cozy and relaxed blend of cultures. The menu, always presented on a colorful chalkboard, features pizza, pasta and sandwiches, and lunch is a steal!

Jesse’s Best Bite: Dry-aged Delmonico ribeye Magnoliastyle with crabmeat and hollandaise A bit out of the way for most, but always worth the drive to Magnolia Springs, this one-of-a-kind steak house specializes in dry- and wet-aged beef. The seafood is also fabulous.

The Noble South Best Bite: Pickled shrimp appetizer served in a Mason jar with a side of Saltine crackers The masterminds behind Fairhope’s The Wash House opened this upscale yet casual Bienville Square restaurant offering a modern take on traditional southern ingredients. Deviled eggs, fresh fish, local produce and a popular hot plate lunch round out the menu.

downtown Mobile. Fine dining options include small bites, such as foie gras, and larger entrees, such as Australian lamb chops.

R Bistro Best Bite: Signature crawfish gravy over white rice Don’t skip dessert after the entree. Joe and Misty Rider serve up made-fromscratch European pastries in a relaxed setting along Fairhope Avenue. Menu favorites include peanut butter pie, macaroon puffs and crawfish beignets.

Ruth’s Chris Best Bite: Bone-in 40 ounce Tomahawk ribeye Elegant Ruth’s Chris is known for its sizzling, butter-topped beef. Prime cuts are complemented with an array of salads, seafood, handcrafted cocktails and mouthwatering sides, like potatoes au gratin and lobster mac and cheese.

Southern National Best Bite: Chicken schnitzel with mustard cream sauce

NoJa

The creatives behind Atlanta’s One Flew South, Restaurateur Reggie Washington and chef Duane Nutter, moved south and now bring to life creative Southern cuisine, from grilled okra and shishito peppers to braised short ribs.

Best Bite: Maple leaf duck breast with cabbage saute and rum infused jasmine rice

Southwood Kitchen

Restaurant owner and chef Chakli Diggs serves Mediterranean-Asian cuisine from a renovated 1840s townhouse in the heart of

Best Bite: Korean BBQ marinated Snake River Farms wagyu teres major with a sunnyside egg

Located on Highway 98 in Daphne, Southwood Kitchen is comfortably casual and run by wellknown and well-traveled chef Jeremiah Matthews.

With knowledge and experience from Le Cordon Bleu and Michelin-starred kitchens, the chef showcases his talent of combining classic French food with Southern ingredients.

Thyme on Section Best Bite: Lintz Hangar steak with truffle fries and truffle aioli Located in downtown Fairhope, Thyme on Section offers a unique blend of modern flare and traditional roots. Husband and wife duo Adrian and Rachel Yots bring fresh and local ingredients to the table with menu items ranging from Pho to burgers.

The Wash House Best Bite: Local red fish with crawfish and Vidalia onion soubise Robert Yarbrough and executive chef Chris Rainosek head this Point Clear mainstay, open only for dinner. The Wash House is known for its impeccable service and locally inspired cuisine. Among popular menu items are soups and salads, chateaubriand and New Orleans-style BBQ shrimp. The Key lime bread pudding is a must.

ALABAMA CRAB CLAWS FROM SOUTHWOOD KITCHEN

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 79

Food With A View This hidden gem located in Terry Cove has become a locals’ favorite. Go by boat and hang all day! The restaurant, shaped like a big wooden ship, offers covered areas for families to relax and enjoy a meal while taking in the fresh Gulf breeze and beautiful views of the Gulf of Mexico.

Bluegill Best Bite: Flaming oysters ladled with butter and secret ingredients Guests come for the fresh local seafood and stay for the lively and casual atmosphere. Open for lunch and dinner, this Causeway favorite right on the Delta marsh grass offers something for everyone. The menu ranges from crab claws and smoked tuna dip to fried chicken tenders and, of course, the flamin’ oysters, a Bluegill specialty.

Ed’s Seafood Shed Best Bite: World Famous Yo Mama’s Platter As part of the Panini Pete Hospitality Group, Ed’s Seafood Shed offers imaginative — and appetitefilling — seafood selections. Located along the Causeway, “sammiches,” soups and more are served with a heaping side of sun swept views.

and a fine dining restaurant upstairs. Both kitchens turn out incredibly fresh food, with casual seafood and burgers dockside and a James Beard-nominated, fine dining menu upstairs.

Be sure to catch one of the Southern Grace Dinners at Fishers Upstairs, where acclaimed Southern chefs stop by to cook for one night only!

Grand Hotel: Southern Roots Best Bite: Fried chicken and waffles with red chili honey Southern Roots’ meticulously prepared menu is inspired by on-site gardens, local farmers and highquality ingredients. Everything at this resort restaurant is locally sourced right down to the plates used to serve the food themselves.

The menu changes daily and features items such as red snapper aguachile and poulet rouge breast.

The Gulf Best Bite: Korean BBQ chicken with coconut jasmine rice key lime coleslaw Creative shipping container architecture makes this hangout on Perdido Pass perfect eye candy for beachgoers. Family friendly, The Gulf has couches under the palms or picnic tables in the sun with menu items ranging from sharable snacks to fresh fish and tacos.

Playa Fisher’s Orange Beach Best Bite: Blackened swordfish with caramelized Vidalia onions Johnny Fisher gives you two reasons to stop by Orange Beach Marina: a casual dockside cafe downstairs

THE SWORDFISH, TACOS AND PINK PINEAPPLE FROM PLAYA | PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Best Bite: Pork belly banh mi with pickled peppercorn mayo

Best Bite: Steam snapper in a banana leaf with poblano butter Vintage California decor with a cool surfer vibe welcomes vacationers looking to dine on Carribean and Latin flavors paired with fabulously fresh cocktails.

80 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Owner Johnny Fisher and executive chef Bill Briand crafted a menu of street tacos, conch fritters, grilled swordfish and more, but the frozen drinks are worth the drive alone.

Sunset Pointe Best Bite: Eastern Shore bouillabaisse with fresh shell fish, Gulf shrimp and fish Pete Blohme aims to please with a restaurant that revolves around the amazing westward views from his dining room and patio. This standout menu features bouillabaisse, steamed mussels and fried snapper throats, but the menu has something for every palate.

MORE IN THAN OUT BURGER FROM ANCHOR | PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Anchor Bar & Grill

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 81

Food With Flair El Papi

MOE NACHOS FROM MOE’S BBQ

Best Bite: Plato ala Mexicana, grilled with chipotle sauce With a tagline of “Tequila, Tacos, Trouble,” El Papi promises diners authentic Mexican food and fun. The cuisine is made from scratch and includes traditional items like burritos, tacos, fajitas, nachos, and of course, margaritas and cervezas.

Master Joe’s Sushi

PHOTO BY ELISE POCHÉ

Best Bite: Cat’s Meow roll, oven baked and dressed with kapa sauce

Bar Bites

Master Joe’s Fairhope and Orange Beach locations offer dozens of rolls and Japanese dishes in chic venues. The menu features chef Joe Ou’s specialty rolls, like the Bay Roll and Sushi Pizza, as well as traditional rolls, teppanyaki and noodles.

Sage Lebanese

Callaghan’s

LoDa Bier Garten

OK Bicycle Shop

Red or White

Best Bite: Lebanese hummus

Best Bite: Bacon cheeseburger, fully dressed

Best Bite: Sugar Rush Burger with root beer sauce, served between two Sugar Rush glazed doughnuts

Best Bite: Chicken flautas filled with jack cheese

Best Bite: Bruschetta with housemade Boursin cheese and olive oil

Fairhope’s Sage restaurant offers authentic Mediterranean and Lebanese dishes with a modern approach.

Exceptional food and surprising flavors are a result of the freshest, best ingredients and a perfect blend of spices. The dining room is tiny but the flavors are huge!

The Irish-style pub makes it easy for guests to feel right at home in big wooden booths or on the dog-friendly patio. The burgers and sandwiches draw you in, but some of the best live music in town keeps you glued to your seat.

The Haberdasher Best Bite: Avocado fries Downtown Mobile’s go-to bar for craft cocktails and an ever-rotating selection of craft beer and Mobile’s best spirits. The food bar is open nightly serving a variety of fresh, handmade bar foods and more.

With over 100 different beers, locally sourced, farm-fresh ingredients and large TVs aplenty, it’s no wonder diners choose LoDa to unwind or watch the big game. Menu offerings range from burgers to Jagerschnitzel and salads.

Moe’s BBQ Best Bite: Moe Nachos, served with tangy white barbecue sauce At Moe’s, barbecue is king, but the side dishes are the crowning jewels. Tender, smoked meats are paired with above-average sides.

82 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

Fabulous Latin fare and fusion sushi make it hard to choose at this buzzing watering hole on Dauphin.

The adventurous should stop by for Sunday Gospel Drag Queen Brunch in the courtyard!

Pour Baby Best Bite: Tenderloin sliders with bacon jam and homemade slaw This Mobile wine bar and bistro boasts a stunning wall of bottles. Foodies can enjoy a classic variety of appetizers, from homemade spreads and crostini to beef short ribs.

Retail wines, a wine bar and plenty of small plates to share have established Red or White as a mainstay on both sides of the bay.

Squid Ink Best Bite: Calamari a la plancha Panini Pete’s newest restaurant draws its menu inspiration from Mobile’s founding nations: France, Spain and England.Hearty options include a burger with brie and shallots, paella balls with romesco and deep-fried Scottish eggs.

Von’s Bistro Best Bite: Drunken Thai noodles with pan Asian sauce Von and Paul Larson’s bistro boasts high ceilings, rustic wood and an exposed brick frame opening to the kitchen where Von serves as head chef. Fresh ingredients anchor a fusion menu of Pad Thai, three-layer lasagna and Southern hog tacos.

‘

Let s Do Lunch!

Butch Cassidy’s Cafe Best Bite: Butch burger dressed with bacon, cheese, lettuce, onion, tomato, pickles, mayo and mustard Established by Roy Seewer in 1993, Butch Cassidy’s reasonable prices, low-key atmosphere and burger options aplenty keep locals coming back. Daily specials, along with sandwiches, seafood, nachos, wings, and low-carb options round out the menu.

The Cheese Cottage Best Bite: The artisan cheese and charcuterie board with local honey, housemade jams, nuts, fruits, crackers and crusty baguette Owner Kristi Barber left the corporate hustle and bustle to open this charming

Downtown cheese shop in a converted gas station.

More than 100 cheeses are offered, six of which are highlighted each week for tastings. The lunch menu includes fresh salads, pressed sandwiches, sweets and more. The covered patio with picnic tables and café lights is a favorite local spot when the weather is right.

Cereal Killer Best Bite: Sunny shrimp tacos with cornflake crusted shrimp, over-easy egg, pickled red onion and avocado crema on a locally made corn tortilla It’s breakfast all day at this downtown Fairhope hot spot offering a modern twist on traditional brunch recipes. Whether you’re

in the mood for breakfast ramen or the wildly popular boozie French toast, Cereal Killer excites.

Cotton State BBQ Best Bite: Beef brisket sandwich with a side of cole slaw Instead of the typical pulled or chopped meat, the folks at Cotton State serve it thinly sliced on unexpected eats like nachos, fries and baked potatoes. With every menu item at $7 or less, a trip to Cotton State BBQ makes for the perfect weekday lunch.

Dew Drop Inn Best Bite: The Dew Drop Inn hot dog with homemade chili, sauerkraut, mustard, ketchup and a pickle slice History abounds at this hot dog mecca where regulars keep the same booth, same waitress and same order year after year. The place

and the menu as a whole have remained unchanged throughout the decades.

The restaurant offers various, amusing ways of serving their bright red hot dogs like upside-down with wiener on top or female, with no wiener at all. A side of homemade onion rings is a must.

Dragonfly Foodbar Best Bite: Spicy red curry coconut chicken noodle bowl with jalapenos, edamame and Asian pesto This one-of-a-kind eatery serves up inventive tacos, Asian noodle bowls and creative appetizers with a kick. Locals love the outdoor patio and the seasonal Damselfy cocktails.

FOY Superfoods Best Bite: Detox Super Bowl with shredded raw veggies, brown rice, quinoa, almonds and cranberries in a ginger detox vinaigrette FOY, or Fountain of Youth, is Mobile’s one-stop shop for all things healthy. Owners Liz Garza and John Smith offer nutritious meals to go and South Alabama’s first cold pressed juice bar.

Soups, smoothies, avocado toast and acai bowls are just a few of the body cleansing menu items that FOY offers.

Meat Boss Best Bite: Smoked brisket with jalapeno jelly and crunchy slaw on a sweet bun This West Mobile outpost satisfies your craving for hearty barbecue and comforting sides. Owners Dara and Benny Chinnis started the business as a takeout counter with only one

THE DETOX BOWL FROM FOY SUPERFOODS PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

84 mobilebaymag.com |november 2019

window, but loyal patrons pushed them to expand.

Write your order on a brown paper bag and walk out with a smile and a big stack of napkins.

Mediterranean Sandwich Co. Best Bite: Beef and lamb gyro with cool tzatziki and warm pita bread Owner Vlad Moldoveanu presents a casual dining atmosphere with an affordable menu, and every item is prepared fresh when ordered. Multiple locations on both sides of the Bay make it an easy place to meet up for lunch.

Panini Pete’s Best Bite: House-roasted turkey panino with housemade mozzarella cheese on fresh baked foccacia bread Pete Blohme showcases his talents for pressed sandwich making (and killer burgers, too) at his familyfriendly breakfast and lunch joint. The restaurant’s signature New Orleans beignets are also a crowd favorite.

Pete’s other establishments are worth a visit, too.

Ox Kitchen Best Bite: Smoked pork and greens sammy served with fried Brussels sprouts in a ponzu dressing Ox Kitchen chef and owner Bo Hamilton offers a modern take on traditional Southern ingredients at his tiny outpost inside The Mill in downtown Fairhope. Families enjoy game nights, live music and access to other eateries under one roof.

A TRIO OF TACOS FROM ROOSTERS PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Roosters Best Bite: Barbacoa brisket tacos on handmade tortillas with pickled red onion, cilantro, guajillo salsa and queso fresco Casual Latin vibes and authentic Mexican and Cuban fare make this one of downtown Mobile’s favorite stops. Grab a Tajin-rimmed margarita and a table outside to keep an eye on the activity up and down Dauphin Street.

Warehouse Best Bite: Jungle Fish Buddha Bowl with fresh steamed veggies, grilled local fish and sesame lime ahi sauce Garage-style doors roll up to bring the nice weather inside this southFairhope bakery and lunch spot.

Homemade donuts, croissants, kolaches and more sit alongside fresh grain bowls, sandwiches and hearty Southern dishes. The perfect mix of comfort and health food keeps this outpost hopping.

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 85

EXTRAS | CALENDAR OF EVENTS

A November to Remember!

NOVEMBER 1 - 30

NOVEMBER 2

NOVEMBER 7 - 17

FALL OUTDOOR CASCADING CHRYSANTHEMUMS DISPLAY Come see hundreds of colorful, four-footlong cascades of chrysanthemums on bridges and balconies, as well as traditional displays.

3RD ANNUAL JOE BULLARD WINE ON THE RIVER 3 - 6 p.m. Sample wine from national and international vineyards. Ticket price includes beverage samples, food and live music. Tickets: $49, general admission; $99, VIP; $25, designated driver.

FRANK BROWN INTERNATIONAL SONGWRITER’S FESTIVAL See more than 200 songwriters perform at various concert venues.

COOPER-RIVERSIDE PARK WINEONTHERIVERMOBILE.COM

NOVEMBER 9 - 10

NOVEMBER 2

BATTLESHIP RUGBY FALL TOURNAMENT 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. Watch a different kind of football on the battleship’s lawn as teams from all over the Southeast compete.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG

NOVEMBER 1 - 2 THE HANGOUT OYSTER COOK-OFF AND CRAFT BEER WEEKEND Sample oyster dishes from some of the best chefs in the Southeast.

THE HANGOUT HANGOUTCOOKOFF.COM

ANIMAL ARTS SAFARI Celebrate the Alabama Gulf Coast Zoo’s new location at this event featuring art from the animal residents as well as local and world-renowned artists. Tickets: $75.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS FRANKBROWNSONGWRITERS.COM

USS ALABAMA USSALABAMA.COM

ALABAMA GULF COAST ZOO ANIMALARTSAFARI2019.BPT.ME

 To have your event included in the online or print edition of Mobile Bay Magazine, email calendar@pmtpublishing.com.

86 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

NOVEMBER 9

NOVEMBER 16

CHALK ART FESTIVAL 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Celebrate the fall with ocean-themed creations on the sidewalk at The Wharf. Make your mark with your own chalk masterpiece for $5.

OWA’S TREE LIGHTING CEREMONY Kick off the holiday season with the lighting of OWA’s 36-foot tree.

THE WHARF • ALWHARF.COM

NOVEMBER 12, 13 JOHN S. SLEDGE, AUTHOR EVENTS 6 p.m. Tu. 5 - 7 p.m. Wed. Local author John S. Sledge will be at Fairhope’s Page and Palette on November 12 and at the History Museum of Mobile on November 13 to discuss his recent work, “The Gulf of Mexico: A Maritime History.”

Both events are free.

PAGE AND PALETTE, FAIRHOPE PAGEANDPALETTE.COM HISTORY MUSEUM OF MOBILE HISTORYMUSEUMOFMOBILE.COM

NOVEMBER 14 - 21 ROLLER DERBY BEGINNERS CLINIC 7 - 9 p.m. No skating or derby experience necessary. Price includes six classes and access to pads and skates. Cost: $25.

DREAMLAND SKATE CENTER FACEBOOK.COM/MOBILESDERBYDARLINGS

NOVEMBER 14 - 17 FAIRHOPE FILM FESTIVAL View a variety of national and international films. Single tickets: $15; various packages are also available.

DOWNTOWN FAIRHOPE FAIRHOPEFILMFESTIVAL.ORG

NOVEMBER 15 - 17 CHRISTMAS JUBILEE 9 a.m. - 8 p.m. F, 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. Sa, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Su. Stock up on gifts for the whole family in one convenient location.

MOBILE CIVIC CENTER JUNIORLEAGUEMOBILE.ORG

[ONGOING EVENTS]

OWA • VISITOWA.COM

NOVEMBER 21 FAIRHOPE TREE LIGHTING CEREMONY 5:30 - 8 p.m. Don’t forget to write a letter to Santa with the help of Mrs. Claus.

DOWNTOWN FAIRHOPE FAIRHOPEAL.GOV

PROHIBITION TOURS 6 - 8 p.m. Learn about Mobile’s hidden “underbelly” during the Prohibition era. Drink up at various stops such as Alchemy Tavern, The Sidecar Lounge and The Haberdasher.

DOWNTOWN MOBILE FACEBOOK.COM/SECRETHISTORYTOURS

NOVEMBER 22 HARGROVE FOUNDATION GALA 6 p.m. Reception. 7 p.m. Dinner. The fifth annual gala features keynote speaker, General Colin L. Powell, with Dane Borné, voice of the LSU Tigers, as master of ceremonies.

ICE HOUSE HAPPY NIGHT 4 - 9 p.m. Thursdays.

Cheers to $2 off pints, free Chick-fil-A sandwiches, live music and more.

HAINT BLUE BREWING COMPANY HAINTBLUEBREW.COM

MOBILE CONVENTION CENTER HARGROVEFOUNDATION.ORG

NOVEMBER 23 MOBILE INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Visit more than 70 booths celebrating various cultures and cuisines.

MOBILE FAIRGROUNDS MOBILEINTERNATIONALFESTIVAL.ORG

NOVEMBER 24 PREVIEW PARTY: MAGIC CHRISTMAS IN LIGHTS 6 - 9 p.m. This preview includes hors d’oeuvres and beer and wine.

Tickets: $50 per person.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG

NOVEMBER 29 - DECEMBER 31 MAGIC CHRISTMAS IN LIGHTS 5 - 9 p.m. Stroll through a dazzling light display that features more than 1,100 set pieces.

BIENVILLE BITES Sample some of the best cuisine the city has to offer over the course of a threehour walking tour while learning about our culinary history. Choose from the LoDa Stroll, Old Mobile Evening, or Little Foodies tours. See their website for available times and prices. You must register ahead of time.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS, DOWNTOWN MOBILE BIENVILLEBITESFOODTOUR.COM

MOBILE HAPPY HOUR WATERFRONT CRUISE Enjoy cocktails aboard The Perdido Queen Paddlewheel among the sights and sounds of the city’s waterfront.

1 WATER ST. PERDIDOQUEEN.COM

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 87

EXHIBITS AT MOBILE MUSEUM OF ART 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Tu - Su. Admission: $12 adults / $10 seniors / $8 students / Free for MMofA members. mobilemuseumofart.com

THROUGH JANUARY 5 SOUTHERN MASTERS Step inside the lives of various local artists by looking at a re-creation of their own studio or work space inside the museum.

In addition to the large scale installations exploring the work and creative spaces of Casey Downing Jr., Bruce Larsen, and Nall, each has selected an emerging Alabama artist to represent the next generation.

THROUGH JANUARY 5 LEE M. HOFFMAN: A LEGACY Explore the diverse talents that Hoffman exhibited in his career.

THROUGH APRIL 19 FROM FORT TO PORT & BEYOND Come see the architectural history of Mobile through an Alabama Bicentennial exhibition examining our area’s rich history through its iconic buildings.

EXHIBITS AT MOBILE CARNIVAL MUSEUM 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. M, W, F / Sa. mobilecarnivalmuseum.com

THROUGH NOVEMBER 3

SCS AT ITS BEST: SANTA CLAUS SUITS AND CARNIVAL Relive good times past via a selection of artifacts and costumes celebrating one of Mobile’s most unique mystic societies.

THROUGH JANUARY 4

MOBILE MAKERS: LEGENDARY CARNIVAL ARTISTS OF TODAY 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. M, W, F / Sa. Take a look at some of the creative geniuses who work behind the scenes to bring Mardi Gras to life.

88 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

EXHIBITS AT THE GULF COAST EXPLOREUM 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. Tu - Th, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. F / Sa, noon - 5 p.m. Su. exploreum.com

NOVEMBER 9 - JANUARY 5 STEM WONDERLAND Celebrate the Christmas season and engineering at the same time. Enjoy the model train and ice village. Admission: $6 - $13.

CITY STAGES THROUGH NOVEMBER 3 “MACBETH” 7:30 p.m. F / Sa. 2 p.m. Su. Something wicked this way comes just in time for Halloween. Tickets: $10, $15, $20.

JOE JEFFERSON PLAYERS JOEJEFFERSONPLAYERS.COM

NOVEMBER 9 “DRACULA AND ME” 7:30 - 9:30 p.m. An original comedy with engaging characters set in a 1930s radio station. Tickets: $8, $10.

EPISOCOPAL CHURCH OF THE REDEEMER COMMEDIADELARTE.ORG

NOVEMBER 20 “ELF ON THE SHELF: A CHRISTMAS MUSICAL” 7 p.m. Treat yourself and your children to a musical inspired by the beloved Christmas toy. Tickets: $30 - 60.

MOBILE SAENGER THEATRE MOBILESAENGER.COM

NOVEMBER 23 - 24 MOBILE SYMPHONY PRESENTS “EROICA” 7:30 p.m. Sa. 2:30 p.m. Su. This performance highlights Beethoven’s third symphony that was inspired by Napoleon.

Tickets: $15 - $80.

MOBILE SAENGER THEATRE MOBILESYMPHONY.ORG

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 89

DECEMBER 3 - 4 PLAYHOUSE IN THE PARK PRESENTS “A CHRISTMAS CAROL” Times vary. Celebrate the season with the Dickens classic. Tickets: $9 for student performances; $20 for public performances.

SAENGER THEATRE PLAYHOUSEINTHEPARK.ORG/BOXOFFICE

DECEMBER 3 - 21 BRAGG-MITCHELL MANSION CHRISTMAS SEASON 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Tu - F. Step back in time and explore Christmas traditions of the past. Admission: $10.

BRAGG-MITCHELL MANSION BRAGGMITCHELLMANSION.COM

DECEMBER 5 ST. MARY LIGHTING UP MIDTOWN 6:45 p.m. Santa will arrive on the Lafayette Street fire truck, and food, cookie decorating, hot chocolate and a little snow will be included.

ST. MARY CAMPUS, MIDTOWN STMARYMOBILE.ORG

DECEMBER 7 KIDZ BOP 6 p.m. This interactive experience is for the whole family. Kids will be performing today’s biggests hits, sung by kids.

MOBILE SAENGER THEATRE KIDZBOP.COM

90 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

DECEMBER 7 LET IT SNOW 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. Enjoy a day of snow, live performances, storytelling and more following the Foley Christmas Parade.

HERITAGE PARK , FOLEY VISITFOLEY.COM

DECEMBER 8 BELLA VOCE CONCERT 4 p.m. Mobile’s premier women’s chorus presents its 12th annual concert, “Christmas Gift.” A festive reception will follow.

ST. PAUL’S EPISCOPAL CHURCH, MOBILE BELLAVOCEOFMOBILE.ORG

DECEMBER 14 - 15 MOBILE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA PRESENTS A CELTIC CHRISTMAS WITH CHERISH THE LADIES 7:30 p.m. Sa, 2:30 p.m. Su. The highenergy group puts their Irish spin on Christmas tunes. Tickets: $15 - 80.

SAENGER THEATRE MOBILESYMPHONY.ORG

DECEMBER 14 - 15 “THE NUTCRACKER” 2:30 p.m. Sa / Su. 7:30 p.m. Sa. Take the family to see the Mobile Ballet’s spin on the classic tale. Tickets: $20 - $60.

MOBILE CIVIC CENTER THEMOBILEBALLET.ORG

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 91

THE ARTS | LITERATURE

The Gulf of Mexico: A Maritime History In a sampling from his newest book, local author and MB contributor John Sledge tells the tale of a German submarine attack on a ship headed for Mobile. text by JOHN SLEDGE

Excerpt from “Gulf of Mexico: A Maritime History” Despite the Gulf Coast’s booming war industries and busy shipping lanes, it was ill prepared for a shooting war.

Lights blazed along the shore. Ships sailed unescorted and alone. Germany quickly exploited the situation, sending U-boats ghosting through the Florida Straits early in 1942. The submarine captains called the subsequent six months, during which they had virtual unchallenged sway in the Gulf, the “Happy Times.” Cargo ships and tankers were repeatedly torpedoed off the mouths of the Mississippi and along routes leading to Galveston, Mobile, and Tampa. U-boats sank fifty-six ships, totaling three hundred thousand tons. In June of 1942 they destroyed more vessels in the Gulf than in all the other theaters of war combined. After U-boats sank several Mexican ships, that nation declared war and joined the allies, coordinating nascent defensive efforts with the United States.

Every submarine attack was unique but there were also similarities, and the story of the sixty-seven-hundredton Alcoa Puritan may be taken as emblematic. On the morning of May 6, 1942, the ship was bound north out of Trinidad for Mobile with a load of bauxite. David Conwell was on board as third mate and later described what happened. He had just come on duty and was carrying “an entire dessert pie” to the bridge when the alarm sounded. He quickly went to his room, deposited the pie, and threw on a life belt. One of the passengers claimed to have seen a torpedo speed just astern, but the

sea’s surface was calm and unruffled. “While we discussed the possibility of the torpedo’s being merely a porpoise,” he wrote, “a submarine surfaced astern.” What Conwell didn’t know at the time was that the enemy craft was U-507, commanded by Harro Schacht, a highly effective officer with the kind of classic Aryan looks Hitler loved. The Germans fired a warning shot but the Alcoa Puritan’s captain tried to flee, setting a zigzag course at fourteen knots. To no avail. The U-boat’s deck gun opened rapid fire. “These were at a rate of three a minute, for twenty-five minutes,” Conwell recalled. The Alcoa Puritan was transformed into a smoking wreck, her superstructure and funnel punctured, her anchors shot away, windows smashed, instruments broken, and multiple fires started. The captain ordered abandon ship.

Conwell “ran along the port side of the main deck, now covered with heaps of bauxite from our holds, and jumped over the taffrail into the water.” He successfully swam for a lifeboat and clambered on board. No sooner was the crew safely bobbing astern the Alcoa Puritan than another torpedo sped into her. The vessel was finished. The “sea-green colored submarine” then approached the life rafts, and Schacht, wearing only shorts, apologized for the attack. He shouted that he hoped they “would make it all right,” waved, and went back below. Incredibly, none of the Alcoa Puritan’s crew had been killed, but they had certainly gotten the fright of their lives.

From “THE GULF OF MEXICO: A MARITIME HISTORY”

by John S. Sledge, ©2019 The University of South Carolina Press, https://www.sc.edu/uscpress/cloth, $29.99

AN EVENING WITH JOHN SLEDGE • NOVEMBER 13, 4 p.m. - 7 p.m. • HISTORY MUSEUM OF MOBILE Celebrate the release of John Sledge’s new book “The Gulf of Mexico: A Maritime History,” a sweeping work that illuminates both the risks of life on the water and the riches that come from its bounty. Enjoy hor d’oeuvres and music, and purchase a book to have it signed by the author. Parking and admission is free.

92 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

june 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 93

THE ARTS | LITERATURE

To Dunk or to Crumble The more-or-less definitive guide to eating cornbread and potlikker. excerpt from the book THEY CALL ME OR ANGE JUICE

by AUDREY MCDONALD ATKINS illustration by CARL CALDERONE

R

ecently I read an article by John T. Edge, the venerable Southern food writer and director of the Southern Foodways Alliance, in which he referenced his master’s thesis written about the Potlikker and Cornpone Debate of 1931. Yes, you heard that right — the Potlikker and Cornpone Debate of 1931.

For nearly a month that year, the South, and a great deal of the rest of the nation, was held rapt by a back-and-forth debate between the editor of the Atlanta Constitution, Julian Harris, and Louisiana governor Huey Long over the merits of dunking one’s cornpone into one’s potlikker as opposed to crumbling one’s cornpone into said potlikker. Would that I had been a fly on the screen door to follow a confabulation of such import! And make no mistake, it is important.

For the unfortunate among you who do not know, potlikker is the savory broth left after you cook up a mess of greens. As most everyone knows in these days of enlightened eating, when you cook those greens down, as we all like to do, many of the nutrients leach out into the cooking liquid. This brackish elixir is known for its curative powers, and to many it is the best part of the whole greens experience, especially when combined with a warm piece of cornbread.

The marriage of absorbent bread and salty likker is near divine, but what is the best method to bring these two together on the plate? This question brings us to the debate of dunking versus crumbling.

If you crumble, you must carefully consider the cornbread to potlikker ratio — too little potlikker, and you’ve got a bowlful of broken-up, dry cornbread; too much, and you have mush. If you dunk your cornbread into the potlikker, you are left with a rapidly softening, crumbly piece of cornbread that you have to drag up to your mouth before the soggy end breaks off and falls back onto the plate. If there is breakage, then you are treading in crumbling waters, as far as I’m concerned.

I prefer neither method.

I like to take my wedge of cornbread (and I do prefer wedges from an iron skillet the way God intended cornbread to be instead of squares from a baking pan or, dare I say it, a muffin) and put it on a plate. Then I slice it cleanly, horizontally down the middle dividing it in half. Next I flip the top triangle over so that the points are facing away from one another and apply just the thinnest smear of butter to all of the exposed surfaces. Then, and only then, do I slowly, carefully spoon the potlikker over the cornbread, taking time to watch for a maximum

absorption and saturation of the potlikker into the cornbread with just enough running around the plate for a little extra sopping, but not so much that it will make the cornbread fall apart into soggy bits.

There you have it. The potlikker gospel according to Audrey. When given the choice to dunk or crumble, I say Spoon!

And for those of you who think, Likker? Can’t those rednecks spell? It is most definitely potlikker and not pot liquor. This little matter was laid to rest by Georgia’s Zell Miller in a letter to the New York Times: Dear Sir: I always thought The New York Times knew everything, but obviously your editor knows as little about spelling as he or she does about Appalachian cooking and soul food.

Only a culinary-illiterate damnyankee (one word) who can’t tell the difference between beans and greens would call the liquid left in the pot after cooking greens “pot liquor” (two words) instead of “potlikker” (one word) as yours did. And don’t cite Webster as a defense because he didn’t know any better either.

Sincerely, ZELL MILLER Lieutenant Governor, State of Georgia

 Born and raised in Citronelle, Atkins shares stories about growing up and living in the South in her book, “They Call Me Orange Juice,” and at her blog audreyatkinswriter.com.

94 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 95

HISTORY | ASK MCGEHEE

Did Mobile really have a nutria rodeo? text by TOM MCGEHEE

In 1958, hoards of hunters and their dogs headed over to the Causeway to participate in the first nutria rodeo. Marsh grasses were set on fire, and as the furry critters ran for their lives, they were assaulted by dogs and gunshots. Why would there be such uproar over these vegetarian creatures?

Origins in Argentina Residents of the Gulf Coast have long blamed Ned McIlhenny, the proprietor of Tabasco, for importing nutria from Argentina for their fur in 1938. After a hurricane in 1941, 100 of the critters were released into the adjoining Louisiana swamps, and the animal’s epic level of procreation did the rest. McIlhenny was not actually the first to get into the nutria fur business, so he can’t be held solely responsible.

The animal’s fur was described as being very similar to mink, and coats made from it cost hundreds of dollars, making the nutria a valuable commodity. Unfortunately, no one realized just how quickly the rodents reproduced. And with a beaver’s head, orange buck teeth and a long hairless tail, they would not win a beauty contest.

When the animals escaped or were released, they began devouring marsh plants, with a preference for roots. Stands of cattails vanished and were replaced by muddy holes.

As the nutria proliferated, hundreds of acres of wetlands began disappearing in Louisiana and were replaced by open water. By 1960, it was estimated that there were 20 million of the rodents in the state of Louisiana alone.

96 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

ABOVE A face only a mother could love? Nutrias, with their telltale bright orange teeth, are semiaquatic. Their webbed feet make them more agile in water than on land. These rat-like rodents feast on Gulf Coast wetlands, making them a cute, but destructive, nuisance.

Mobile Gets Invaded Nutria were introduced to the MobileTensaw Delta in 1948 with the idea that fur trappers would keep them in check and the animal’s voracious appetite would tackle water-choking plants. Whose idea this was is not recorded, but within a decade, nutrias had caused such damage to the Delta that a rodeo was planned.

In 1958, participants bagged some 5,000 nutrias and thus began an annual event. A Nutria Queen, clad in pelts, was crowned each year, and the event took on the air of a circus, complete with plenty of beer.

And to go along with the beer? Barbecued nutria meat.

By the mid-1970s, animal rights protesters were condemning the rodeo, and the numbers killed were only in the 300 range. Trappers were having a lot better luck, with an annual count hovering around 10,000. Between those trappers and an ever-increasing alligator population, the rodeo came to an end.

Today’s Picture Nutrias continue to cause damage to Alabama’s delta marshes, but thankfully their numbers are kept somewhat in check by trappers and alligators who find their meat quite appetizing. In comparison, Louisiana’s

ABOVE An ad from 1918 or 1919 for Herman & Ben Marks Wholesale Fur Makers featuring luxurious nutria fur coats.

licensed trappers captured 170,000 of the rat-like critters last year, with the state paying them a $6 per tail bounty.

A Baton Rouge dog food company may have found a solution. It has begun selling a dog treat made from nutria meat, which is said to be high in protein and low in cholesterol.

And while Ned McIlhenny may not have introduced the nutria to this part of North America, he was quite interested in propagating varieties of another invasive species: bamboo. His gift to Walter and Bessie Bellingrath has reproduced almost as rapidly as those buck-tooth nutria! MB

november 2019 | mobilebaymag.com 97

END PIECE | IN LIVING COLOR

Bay Shell Road, c. 1900 Photo from the Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division, Detroit Publishing Company Photograph Collection Colorization by Dynamichrome Limited

Mobile’s second shell-paved route, Bay Shell Road, once had a reputation for being the “most famous of all Alabama driveways,” according to a 1912 article published in “Municipal Journal.” Built in the 1850s, the 6-mile stretch of road ran south along Mobile Bay, from now-known Choctaw Point to Mobile Aeroplex at Brookley. Notable stops along the way included Frascati Park, Crystal Pool and the original location of the Country Club of Mobile.

Bay Shell Road closed in 1938. The area it covered is now the industrial site around the Mobile Port Authority. However, Mobile’s original shell road, Old Shell Road, remains viable nearly 200 years after it was constructed.

Does your family have memories of Bay Shell Road? Let us know! Email ahartin@pmtpublishing.com.

98 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019

100 mobilebaymag.com | november 2019