Waste Collective: Emily Smethurst

FIRST THINGS FIRST. VOL- 1

THE FASHION SUSTAINABILITY HANDBOOK FOR PEOPLE WHO DON’T KNOW HOW TO BE SUSTAINABLE.

CONTENTS WELCOME

WORD SOUP

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EMILY BULL 36-41

WASTE WALL OF FAME

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WHAT IS SUSTAINABILITY? 10-11

LETS TALK LANDFILL 12-13

41-52

ITS ALL IN THE PACKAGING 52-53

WHERES WASTE?

DEPOP SHOPPING WITHOUT THE GUILT 54-55

16-17

WHAT CAN YOU DO? 18-19

DEXTER BURGES-HUNT

EMA CROMPTON 20-27

HOW TO SPOT A SUSTAINABLE BRAND 28-33

WASTE CAFETERIA 34-35

56-63

WHAT REALLY HAPPENS WHEN YOU WASH YOUR CLOTHES?

64-65

CAN YOU RENT? 66-67

DON’T TRUST THOSE INFLUENCERS, GIRL 68-69

HEY, YOU. Although this is only Vol.1 I wouldn’t underestimate us, we are big and we are mighty and WE (yes, this is a group effort) are ready to educate about the devastating effects the fashion industry has on our planet and how YOU can make a change.

Now listen, we know you’ve not done this on purpose, wearing clothes is a necessity (unfortunately) and we all enjoy the trill of buying a new dress that we’ve seen on our favourite Instagram influencer, but this is no longer something we can get away with and ignore, this is serious, and we need to do something. Ok ok ok, I know what you’re thinking, “I don’t even get what sustainability is?!” “I don’t want to be a vegan!!” “I can’t buy any new clothes, EVER AGAIN :(” but if you think like that, you’re only fooling yourself, BUT THAT’S WHY WE’RE HERE! RIGHT, that’s enough of the rant, let us prove you wrong, and enjoy leaning about all thing’s sustainability, PLUS If we’ve got you this far, you may as well just read the whole thing now!

XOXO- Waste Collective

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ONCE UPON A TIME...

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... IN A LAND WITH NO WASTE OR HUMAN EXPLOITATION. Sustainability means the process of a matter that cannot be maintained at a certain level for as long as it is wanted. AKA, for fashion, if the

fashion industry remains working and operating the way it is now, it is going to KILL OFF the planet, yes a t-shirt has that kind of power people.

The change needs to come from the supply chain and YOU.

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The way we make, use and throw away our clothes is unsustainable.

To make our clothes factories uses unimageable amounts of water (we’re not just talking a few litres), that is then spat back out ruined by chemicals and creates chemical and plastic pollution.

Synthetic Fibres (word soup if you don’t know hun) are found in the deep sea, in the Arctic sea ice, in fish and shellfish (those little sh*ts gets everywhere).

Fast Fashion retailers have their clothes made in countries where the workers are paid next to nothing, have no workers’ rights and no real safety in the workplace, most of these workers are 11 women.

BUT the average piece

of clothing in the UK lasts for 3.3 years

before being thrown into hell (the landfill). PLUS for you young ones who love buying a new bodycon dress for each occasion (and that’s only one example) there is a big chance clothing will only stay in your wardrobe for 5 weeks before you start to have FOOC.

FOOC:

01.LETS TALK LANDFILL...

When you buy a piece of clothing, you are so obsessed with it, you want to wear it every day, you can never imagine parting with it, we all know the feeling.

We are all lovers of fashion here and said fashion lovers also have an obsession with throwing stuff away, probably because we don’t have enough room in our wardrobes for new clothes. The constant sales (learn not to always fall for that bargain) and social media wants us to buy into the new trends. Throwing away isn’t an excuse anyone, the landfill isn’t the new home for your clothes, when they can be loved by someone else, give someone the joy you had when you first purchased it. If we don’t change, one quarter of our total impact on climate change will be because of people buying clothes by 2050.

12 FEAR OF OLD CLOTHES

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“In the UK, 9,513 garments are dumped every 5 minutes.�

WTF

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Credit: Stella McCartney’s Winter 2017 Campaign

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02. DONT HIDE FROM IT, ACT ON IT WHAT CAN YOU DO?!

Open your mind to vintage and second-hand clothing (the category isn’t just “old people chic”, KWEEN) Recycle, recycle, RECYCLE (it’s just as trendy as avo on toast) Buy from brands who are transparent about their supply chain (Carry on reading to find that out) Buy clothing that is good quality and that will last! (not the cheap crap on *cough* boohoo *cough*)

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THIS IS THE BARE MINIMUM BTW

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EMAC

ROMPTON

Photographer & Founder of Freemission

“eco-anxiety is a real thing”

“eco-anxiety is a real thing” Ema Crompton

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To help us out on our mission to convincing you shopaholics to think more about what you’re buying, we have had a helping hand from Ema Crompton! *round of applause for Ema!* Photographer, founder of Freemission and all around sustainable living genius sat down with us to talk Freemission, S**T clothes and where to find your favourite new ~sustainable~ goodies!

WC: Tell me a little bit about yourself and what inspired you to start Freemission?

Ema: I think it was knowing that I couldn’t work in fast fashion anymore that made me start Freemission. I am a photographer and my main work was shooting ecom and campaigns for Manchesters biggest fast fashion brands. Being in such an toxic industry for our planet made me think ‘what the hell am i doing?’. So I quit. I was feeling really stressed and anxious (eco-anxiety is a real thing) and I just needed to speak to like minded people and talk about it so thats when i started the platform. I soon realised many others felt the same way and it’s been such a positive thing!

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People just love buying clothes though.

We have this need to buy them, we love a bargain, we love the variety. It’s just breaking that habit.

LISTEN TO EMA’S PODCAST

WC: What does the term ‘Sustainability’ mean to you?

Ema: It means everything. The world literally Then in terms of environment, I don’t think people realise the depends on it. Sustainability is basically allowing us to sustain life on earths existence. amount of water it takes to If we don’t sustain it, we’re gone. Which is why make a single t-shirt. That water we ALL need to be doing as much as we can. has to come from somewhere.

That goes beyond recycling. It’s much more The fashion industry is in the top 3 BIGGEST polluters and than that. contributors to global warming. If WC: How would you describe the term ‘Fast you aren’t sure about the impacts Fashion’ to someone who is unaware of the of your fashion habits then you impact fashion has on the environment? need to watch Stacey Dooley’s doc on BBC ‘Fashions Dirty Ema: It’s called ‘Fast’ fashion for a Secrets’. That opened my eyes reason. Clothes are being churned out at completely. unfathomable rates. It’s important to know Last year I did a podcast for the about the working conditions for the people in BBC all about the impacts of the these clothing factories. They are terribly paid fast fashion industry, and spoke and pressured to keep up with the demand. all about the alternative shopping

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options we could all be doing instead. The link is in Freemission bio if anyone wants to listen :)

.PS, i used to be obsessed with buying clothes when I worked in all the fast fashion companies, I think knowing I used to do it and now having realised the impacts of my choices is what’s made me so passionate about it. I’m sad I didn’t realise sooner but also glad i did so I can now spread the message to other fashion hungry gals!

WC: What are your opinions on fast fashion?

WC: Do you feel like the fashion industry are taking positive steps towards being more Fast fashion is usually crap quality, sustainable? And how could they improve? doesn’t last, isn’t made to last either, ends up in landfill. It’s waste Ema: I feel like more people are starting to fun in all senses of the word. People wake up. Theres a lot of brands who are using headstock fabrics, recycled materials just love buying clothes though.

We have this need to buy them, we and upcycling existing garments. But then love a bargain, we love the variety. the giants aren’t doing enough. They are still It’s just breaking that habit, people fast and love money more than the planet. need to learn, research, and accept that it’s a terrible industry and we should really be reconsidering our shopping habits.

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WC: What are your go-to stores when it comes to shopping sustainably?

Ema: Vintage shops, second hand, depop, charity shops, Swap shops. Reemission just did it’s first Swap Shop event and it was amazing, so many people donated and swapped amazing clothes!

Some people are weird about second hand clothes but as soon as you get over that it’s exciting and fun! Just buying things that already exist because you’re not adding to the footprint. If it’s being made new then its using resources.

Most conscious companies will tell you in which ways they are reducing their footprint, they’ll have a section on their website because they know that transparency is important to their customer.

WC: How do you identify what brands are authentically sustainable?

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There’s so many cool brands out there you just need to do your research. Most conscious companies will tell you in which ways they are reducing their footprint, they’ll have a section on their website because they know that transparency is important to their customer. You MUST be careful of greenwashing. Don’t think that just because H&M have a ‘conscious’ range, that they’re doing what they can, because they aren’t. Thats greenwashing at it’s height.

WC: What words of advice would you give to someone who want to be more sustainable but don’t know how or where to start?

Ema: Start off with always asking yourself ‘do I need this?’ in terms of clothes, beauty products, household stuff, do you need it? Also thin about what happens to that thing after you’re done with it? Think about the journey of that product. My main tips for living more sustainably and have the single biggest impacts as an individual would be: 95 5K 1K

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EMA’S HOT TOP TIPS

Go vegan. The meat & dairy industry is the biggest contributor to global warming. Our need for meat is the reason why the planet is going in the way it is :(

Talk to people, listen, learn, spread the message. It’s important we talk about global warming and what we can do as individuals to help. This is really important.

Stop buying fast fashion! Save ya money!

Start saying no to plastic. Shop at weigh places and fruit and veg markets and take your tote bags with you :) its actually one of the most satisfying feelings in the world knowing that your entire shop is plastic free!

Once you’re in the habit it’s easy!

Get outdoors, walk more, try driving less, take public transport where you can instead, limit your flights. This one is a hard one as most peoples daily routines revolve around it, but I feel if you’re doing as much as you can in other areas then at least you’re doing what you can <3

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@Freemissionworld @Emacrompz

*BONUS FACT* WC: What are your long-term plans for Freemission?

Ema: I want to keep spreading the message and meeting like minded people. I think conversation is the most important thing. I want to do more Swap Shops as the first one was such a success and everyone enjoyed it so much and went home with lots of ‘new’ goodies. It was a really positive day and I think the more people attend things like that and stop going to the high street instead, we’re all making positive changes! I also want to talk a lot more about plant based foods and how important it is for our health and the planets health to make the transition and I want to show just how easy it is and that it’s all about changing your mindset.

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Ema no longer shoots or works with any fast fashion brands anymore, and she styles all her shoots with sustainable clothes, usually vintage.

WHAT. A. LEGEND.

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03. HOW TO SPOT A SUSTAINABLE FASHION BRAND.

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*HINT* Just because a brand might use organic cotton for one collection, doesnt mean theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sustainable hun

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KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR THESE ICONS Now, there are a few ways perfect example of how to in which you can spot spot a sustainable brand! a brand who are truly They’ve got you covered passionate about being with everything, from how completely transparent to look after your clothes to their customers, to make them last longer about the journey their to even bloomin seeing garments have been on where the factory is on to get to you (and no, google maps!! not the tracking number of your DPD or Hermes You’ve probably heard delivery). We are going everyone banging on to show you what to look about a transparent out for and to equip you supply chain and well…. with the weapons to fight HERE YOU HAVE IT!! A* off the greenwashing!!

FROM US! Our good friends over at Know the Origin are a

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TRACEABILITY

@ US IF YOU DONT THINK THIS IS COOL AF

MEET THE MAKERS

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Image Credit: Know the Origin

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I R E T AFE

COLLECTIVE L C O O H C HIGH S SUSTAINABLE BUT MAKE IT FASHION, DARLING

The popular girls

RUNWAY RASCALS

VINTAGE SUPER STARS.

t

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High street legends

fake it till you make it (they're trying?)

Don't give a F**K

the TRY HARDS

ONLINE WARRIORS

ETHICAL BAE'S

High street haters

ADIDAS REEBOK

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TOO RICH TO GIVE A

MY TYPE ON

SH*T

PAPER

WHO RUN THE WORLD?!

we have no words

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@emilyjbull

WC: Since sustainability has become a global issue, do you feel as though you have become more conscious when it comes to fashion?

Emily: I think so definitely, I am a firm believer in a capsule wardrobe and only really buying items that go together and I think that goes hand in hand with sustainability.

Emily Bull

Founder of Shop, Style, Sort.

ABOUT EMILY

I was the Topshop Personal Shopper in the Liverpool store for around three/three and a half years, I absolutely loved it, but I simply couldn’t progress any further within the company so after months of deliberation and A LOT of ‘what ifs?!’, I finally decided to take the leap into the freelance world and start my own Personal Shopping service; shop.style.sort.

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After you complete a wardrobe detox with a client, what do you do with the clothes that are unwanted?

Emily: So during the detox, I organise my client’s clothes into certain piles, and two of those are ‘charity’ and ‘sell’. I actively encourage my client’s to sell on any items that have been in their wardrobes for a while and that still hold some value, to sell them on and then anything we have left over I take to the charity shop for them, saving them a job.

I actively encourage my client’s to sell on any items that have been in their wardrobes for a while and that still hold some value.

WC: With a large social media following, do you feel as though you need to consider sustainability when promoting fashion brands and clothing to your followers?

Emily: I really do try to, but if I am being honest sometimes I can get so caught up in the item, you know when it’s pretty much love at first sight say with a pair of boots you’ve seen and you’re at the till, buying them without any questions asked!

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WC: Most consumers have an issue and ongoing stigma with ‘outfit repeating’, picking an item of your choice, how would you make it suitable for all occasions without looking repetitive?

WC: What is your opinion on a capsule wardrobe?

Emily: I have just mentioned one but a black blazer, I cannot live without one! You can throw it over your shoulders, layer it under a thicker coat, wear it on its own with skinny jeans for an evening, if it’s long enough wear it as a blazer dress.

Emily: As I have previously mentioned, I love it! I think having items that work together is how you’re going to get the most out of your wardrobe and it’s how you can shop sensibly.

WC: What wardrobe staples would you recommend for a female aged 18-30 who is thinking of starting a capsule wardrobe?

Emily: A really good black blazer is a must! Some basic t-shirts, jeans, probably a skinny fit and a straight leg pair. Flat ankle boots, heeled ankle boots, a midi skirt and a midi dress. Accessories are key, some simple jewellery, a really good black leather belt!

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WC: What are your next steps for shop, style, sort?

WC: Within one of your personal shopping sessions, do you consider sustainable brands and offer them as an option to your clients?

Emily: I try to, but the majority of my one to one shopping sessions take place in Liverpool and we are quite limited with stores, we normally go to Topshop, Zara, H&M, Arket, Cos and & Other Stories. There are definitely some shops I won’t take my clients in, such as Primark, Forever 21 etc.

Offering a new lease life to the clothes that they almost lost faith in.

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WC: How often do you detox your own wardrobe and what is your favourite way to rehome your clothes?

Emily: I try to do a big detox twice a year often before winter and summer just to get ready for the new season. I love selling my clothes on my Instagram, as I love seeing them go to a new home, I use eBay as well, I don’t really like Depop. I also try and do regular trips to the charity shop as well, or if any unwanted item charity bags come through the door ready for collection I always try and fill them.

Emily: Ooo good question, I have something launching this year, hopefully very soon actually which I am calling my little hub of everything; personal shopping, edits, outfit ideas etc! I am very excited for that! I do really just want to continue shopping for my client’s, detoxing their wardrobes and offering them a new lease life to the clothes that they almost lost faith in.

PRE LOVED ALERT

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WASTE HALL OF FAME

Image Credits: Ganni.com

BRANDS IN THE SPOTLIGHT: GANNI

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COPENHAGEN’S COOL GIRL BRAND Husband and Wife duo Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup created Ganni with the mission to create a brand that represents the Danish cool girl. Sustainability is at the forefront of their business (yasssssss) as a result of Nicolaj studying philosophy and ethics at university with a focus on “the triple bottom line”, People, Profit, Planet.

COPENHAGEN’S COOL GIRL BRAND 44

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WHAT FAB THINGS GANNI DO: Manufactures in Europe, China and Indiacarbons maps the impact of each garment and offsets it with a self-imposed carbon tax (proceeds of which go to UN charities).

They’ve signed up to reduce plastic consumption and to design for recyclability.

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Every piece of clothing is fitted with a label to say the brand has paid for its individual carbon footprint.

REQUIRES LESS BRAIN POWER (AND GOOGLING) Basically, they care about their carbon footprint (if you’ve forgot what this is already, revert back to word soup *smh*) and they give themselves a fine (the tax), if you will, to ensure that they stay mindful of the impact the gas, water, product and business travel from their brand has on the planet. Then that tax goes to UN (the big bosses) charity.

AVOIDING PLASTIC where possible (BASIC PRACTICE TBH, SO LAST SEASON) and uses materials which are easy to break down and make into new things.

Let’s their customers know what they’re doing right! (prime example of being Transparent!!- Congrats Ganni)

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Image Credit: Architectual Digest

&

The storage and displays used to display everything from clothes to shoes in the Ganni stores are all made from recycled plastic, from basic things such as yogurt pots, water bottles and even CHOPPING BOARDS. Would you ever think that a nice, shiny pair of £300 boots could sit on plastic that was once used to chop up someone’s tea?! THAT’S THE FUTURE FOLKS.

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REC YCL E RECYCLE&UPCYCLE UPCYCLE

Just when you thought it wasn’t good enough, the soft furnishing (fancy name for rugs etc, anything soft) in Ganni Stores are all made from Ganni fabrics from past collections (OMG *GASP*).

This was made from Kvadrat textiles, which are often deadstock.

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Messages like this from BAE.

“WE MAY NOT BE PERFECT, BUT TO US, BEING TRANSPARENT WITH YOU ABOUT THE SMALL STEPS WE ARE TAKING TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY IS OUR RESPONSIBILITY, AND WE’RE STRIVING TO DO BETTER EVERY DAY. IT’S A START BUT WE’LL KEEP YOU UPDATED ALONG THE WAY. 51 50 LET’S DO THIS TOGETHER.”- GANNI.COM

05. ITS ALL IN THE PACKAGING

POLYTHENE

Sugarcane Polythene

WASTE COLLECTIVE READER 12 YOU DIDNT KNOW THIS PARCEL IS BAD FOR THE PLANET L0S 3R

Compostable Bags

I THINK ITS TIME TO CHANGE TO THESE BEAUTIES, DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T YOU?

Bioplastic

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AND FOR ONCE, WE ARE NOT ONLY JUST TALKING ABOUT WHATS INSIDE, BUT THAT IS PROBABLY BAD TOO.

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06.

SHOPPING BUT WITHOUT THE GUILT.

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If eBay is a black hole of ‘stuff’ and Instagram is a fashion show, Depop is both. As long as you have a phone with a camera, then you are set to sell any of your unwanted bits and bobs. You can find everything from Polaroid film to skateboards but best of all it is home to the most amazing secondhand clothes and accessories that are dying to be the newest thing in your wardrobe, GUILT FREE.

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If you’re still not convinced on the whole ‘secondhand clothing” scenario or you can’t be bothered to take pictures of your clothes that you want to sell then

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It is rumoured that you can make up to £300,000 a year!

FYI it is rumoured that you can make up to £300,000 a year from selling on depop! *GASP* Although it isn’t all profit, Depop takes a 10% cut of each sale and to ship it to customers (although you can always add that as an extra cost!) — but overall the overheads on the app are low. Plus, you can literally do it all on your daily commute, at the gym or while you’re having a skive from work!!

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ON BEHALF OF SYLK STORE

DEXTER BURGESS-HUNT

Now you crazy lot know all about the amazing things that Depop do, we thought you’d like to hear from an expert about his experience on how he runs a successful Depop store! (and if we haven’t already, maybe this will inspire you to make your own!)

With 67k followers on Depop we thought it was only right to speak with Dexter on behalf of Sylk Store about his beautifully curated vintage clothing Depop Store. *

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*WE WILL LET YOU LOOK BEFORE YOU READ, BECAUSE I KNOW YOU CANT RESISIT!

WC: What originally attracted you to Depop?

Dexter: I think it was mainly the sense of community and ease of shopping. Depop seemed like a really unique place to find unusual designers and vintage clothing. That’s something I really related to in my search to find a different collection of style.

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WC: In your current role running Sylk store, what does a normal day look like for you?

- Waking up and replying to all customer messages & leaving feedback - Packaging and posting all orders - Going to source items at vintage warehouse, charity shops ect - Returning to the studio to prep and steam items ready for my business partner Sophy to come and shoot the garments!

- Collecting previously shot items to list onto depop!

- Update content to instagram & showcase new preview items

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WC: What do you feel has impacted the success of your Depop store over the past few years?

Dexter: Being consistent and consistently updating and evolving our styles. There are good days and bad days but you know that you are constantly evolving and working forwards something you love is really rewarding.

WC: Why do you think buying from Depop is important compared to purchasing from a high street store?

Dexter: I think it’s important to support small business, the profits go back into the community and this can changes some small business life’s.

You will find some unusual pieces online that you won’t find in your average high street stores, usually these are better quality and have already stood the test of time!

WC: How do you protect profit margins when buying and selling second hand? What do you consider when settling on a selling price?

Dexter: For us personally it’s a reflection of our style and what we think are stand out pieces, we try and reflect on our own market research, including the price sensitivity of other depop users.

We are always trying to be as affordable as possible for our brands. Unfortunately due to us expanding to make this our full time career and the time it takes us to source the items, shoot, steam, package, reply to customer service messages ect it can be a very lengthy process.

There is also sustainability factor of buying second hand clothes, reselling second hand doesn’t contribute half as much as manufacturing new garments. Just to manufacture 1 piece of denim takes up to 10,000 litres of water!

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WC: What is your opinion on the stigma of vintage clothing being ‘dirty’ or ‘used’ and how have you tried to combat this with the brand image of Sylk store?

Dexter: I think that myth is slowly fading as more and more young people are happy to try pre worn and vintage clothing, We always steam all our garments, this helps control the germs and cleanliness. We feel that if the item has been a little work that just mean it has been loved in a good home!

Depop is an amazing insight to let people into your colourful wardrobe or selected style.

WC: What advice would you give to someone who is thinking of starting a Depop store either in wholesale or just from their own unwanted wardrobe pieces?

Dexter: Curate an idea and make it fully your own style!

To make a store takes time and a lot of improvements but overtime you will grow and have new style sensibility.

Depop is an amazing insight to let people into your colourful wardrobe or selected style, it’s a great opportunity for you to create and take some risk. It’s an amazing community with so many different artists that would love to create and collaborate!

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07. WHAT REALLY HAPPENS WHEN YOU WASH YOUR CLOTHES? Synthetic fabrics can release microfibers into water when washed, both at mills and at home. Up to 40 percent enter rivers, lakes and oceans.

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Wearing those cheap and nasty synthetic fibres do no good, in any situation really, right down to the fact that they make you smell. YES, that’s right, synthetic garments hold onto any old smell which means that they need to be washed a lot more frequently than natural fabrics.

Obviously that’s what washing machines are fore and well, if you smell then it

needs washing but if it doesn’t, then think twice before you throw your next load in!

PLUS, if you had to handwash all of your garments you’d think twice about washing every wear, wouldn’t you!

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@THE ENDLESS WARDROBE

08. CAN YOU RENT? Now we’ve got you this far, I’m guessing you’re starting to feel a bit more clued up about being more sustainable about your fashion choices but if you’re not 100% sold (excuse the pun) on buying second hand clothing , then rental might be the one for you!

Especially if you tend to buy a dress for a special occasion and not wear it again (think of all the money you can save!!)

Luckily, online clothing rental websites have become more popular, and so have the clothing selections. New sites like HURR, are editor-curated with the best dresses, with all of the new ‘It girl’ brands such as RIXO, Ganni, STAUD and more.

You can for example borrow a Rixo dress for a week for around £50 instead of buying it new for £200+. SOUNDS LIKE WE’RE ONTO A WINNER!

GET FOLLOWING ON THE GRAM.

@COCOON CLUB

YES, YOU CAN!

Here are some of our favourite rental clothing website picks… @HURR

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YOU DIDN’T THINK WE’D GO THROUGH THE WHOLE ZINE WITHOUT THE TYPICAL SUSTAINABLE GREEN- DID YOU?

WE CANT WAIT TO SIT ALONG SIDE YOUR FAVOURITE APPS, COMING SOON......

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COLLECTIVE