Charlotte Wood Portfolio

Charlotte Wood Stage 6

[Synopsis] Growing prosperity and demand for fast fashion have significantly contributed to our waste footprint, which has doubled in size over the last 15 years.

As such, huge consumption of water, energy and waste typify this sector.

Moreover, the UK’s textile industry has played a prominent role in this, contributing to it’s position as the fourth largest producer of textile waste in Europe.

Figure 5: Textille Landfill and Waste (Source: www.circularonline.co.uk)

Key: Energy Use Chemical Use Water Use Wastage

Linear Textile System:

Circular Textile System:

Figure 8: An emblem for Change (Source: Institue of Digital Fashion)

Figure 8: Ned Ludd (Source: www.wcml.org.uk)

The Luddites were most active within Northern England, however, they gained particular notoriety within West Yorkshire.

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Key: 1 Employee Showers 2 Employee Entrance 3 Factory Floor 4 Retail 5 Main Entrance 6 Stock 7 Public Toilets 8 Delivery 9 Delivery Bay 10 Moth Tower Entrance 11 Textile Recycling Centre

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Key: 1 Storage 2 Garment Detailing 3 Viewing Room 4 Workshop 5 Moth Tower 6 Offices

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Key: 1 Offices 2 Staff Kitchen 3 Staff Toilets 4 Backstock 5 Strage 6 Moth Tower

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Key: 1 Staff Kitchen 2 Staff Toilets 3 Break Zone 4 VR Room 5 Studio 6 Meeting Rooms 7 Sampling Area 8 Storage 9 Moth Tower

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Charlotte Wood Stage 6

Contents

Contents

Studio Synopsis Global Connections UK Waste Footprint Linear Economy Circular Systems Existing and Proposed UK Thread Origin Digital Transformation Luddites Protagonists Historical Mapping Textile and Technology Timeline Regional to Gloabl Strategy Proposed Montage Yorkshire Textile Timeline No trouble at Mill Huddersfield Woolopolis Weaving a new Future Growing Mapping Textile Fibers Cultural Refrences Programme and Spacial Adjacency Diagram Clientelle Refrences

5-6 7-8 9-10 11-13 14 15-16 17-18 19-22 23 24-27 28-29 30 31-33 35-36 37-38 39-40 41-42 43-44 45-52 53-54 55-56 57 58

Figure 1: Huddersfield Skyline (Source: Author)

“The transition to a circular economy is a systemic change.

In addition to targeted actions affecting each phase of the value chain and key sectors, it is necessary to create the conditions under which a circular economy can flourish and resources can be mobilized.”

(European Commission, 2015,p.18)

Studio Synopsis: Patterns of mass production and consumption currently exist within linear systems; a business that takes components, produces products and sells to consumers. Whilst these models are quick and cheap, they have contributed to a destructive loop which has formed an unsustainable reality. Such impacts include a growing reliance on finite resources and vast quantities of waste being sent to landfill.1 Consequently, this poses direct repercussions upon the environment.

Looking beyond the current linear system, which is based on a take-make-waste extractive model, the implementation of a circular economy seeks to reuse, repair and recycle products.2 Underpinned by a transition to renewable energy sources, this model aims to eliminate the amount of waste produced, carefully manage consumption of natural resources and shift towards a more sustainable economic model, that redefines growth by introducing systemic solutions, that take into account environmental limits, societal needs and economic opportunities.3 A pre-eminent example that currently exists within the linear system is the textile industry. Growing prosperity and demand for fast fashion have significantly contributed to our waste footprint, which has doubled in size over the last 15 years.4 As such, huge consumption of water, energy and waste typify this sector. Moreover, the UK’s textile industry has played a prominent role in this, contributing to it’s position as the fourth largest producer of textile waste in Europe.5 Although the textile industry was widely thought to be extinct within the UK, new technology and modest funding from the government under the new coalition industrial strategy,6 supported by a willingness of companies to invest in the sector, have turned this outlook around. As such, the textile industry is on a revival path. Shifting towards a circular economy offers an alternative approach which could address some of the existing environmental pressures. In such a system, clothes, textiles, and fibres can be kept at their highest value during use, and re-enter the economy after use. The overarching vision of a new, textile system therefore, seeks to align with the principles of a circular economy: one that is restorative and regenerative whilst also offering economic, societal, and environmental benefits.

1 3D Insider | Optitex Blog. 2019. Mass Production In The Fashion Industry: How Quantity Outweighs Quality And Leads To Waste And Financial Loss - 3D Insider | Optitex Blog. https://3dinsider.optitex.com/fashion-quantity-outweighs-quality/ [Accessed 13 November 2020].

2 Europarl.europa.eu. 2015. Circular Economy: Definition, Importance And Benefits | News | European Parliament. https://www.europarl. europa.eu/news/en/headlines/economy/20151201STO05603/circular-economy-definition-importance-and-benefits [Accessed 11 November 2020].

3 Esposito, M., Tse, T. and Soufani, K. (2017), Is the Circular Economy a New Fast‐Expanding Market?. Thunderbird International Business Review, 59: 9-14. https://doi.org/10.1002/tie.21764 4 Cooper, K., 2020. Fast Fashion: Inside The Fight To End The Silence On Waste. BBC News. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-4496856 [Accessed 13 January 2021].

5 https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/biggest-textile-polluting-nations-in-the-eu-listed-uk-ranked-4th-worst/2020012347174 6 Publications.parliament.uk. 2020. Fixing Fashion: Clothing Consumption And Sustainability: Government Response To The Committee’S Sixteenth Report - Environmental Audit Committee - House Of Commons. https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201719/cmselect/cmenvaud/2311/231102.htm [Accessed 14 November 2020].

Figure 2: Textiles in the News Montage (Source: Author)

Figure 3: Global Imports and Exports to and from the UK (Source: Author)

Global Connections: The textile industry is a highly globalised sector, with millions of producers and billions of consumers spread worldwide. Figure 4 highlights the spread of this global market, by identifying where the imports and exports of textiles going to and from the UK travel.

Despite a recent, burgeoning trend towards proximity sourcing, the map highlights that very few products are being sourced, developed or sold locally. As such, this indicates that off-shoring paradigms continue to still exist.1 Moreover as the UK’s regional and global markets continue to grow more hyper competitive and ever evolving, brands, retailers and manufacturers are being continuously forced to make brisk decisions to remain in the game. Subsequently, documentation, systematisation and accountability often become afterthoughts as companies rush to meet demands.

Globally, textile production and manufacturing contributes to more than 1 billion tonnes of carbon emissions per year,2 whilst the UK’s produces 23.3 tonnes of carbon per item.

Consequently, the deliveries and transportation from globally dispersed offshore suppliers to final markets produce additional waste emissions which contribute to our waste footprint.3 In addition to the environmental impacts associated with the textile industry, social accountability also contributes to the social sustainability supporting the trade. Unfair working practices such as, low wages, child labour, unsafe conditions and long working hours reveal another worrying concern.4

1 Arrigo, E., 2020. Global Sourcing In Fast Fashion Retailers: Sourcing Locations And Sustainability Considerations.

Milan, pp.3-4.

2 Brc.org.uk. 2021. Climate Action Roadmap - Textiles. https://brc.org.uk/climate-roadmap/section-7-pathway-sourcing-sustainably/714-textiles/ [Accessed 17 November 2020].

3 Bals, L.; Jensen, P.D.Ø.; Larsen, M.M.; Pedersen, T. Exploring layers of complexity in off-shoring research and practice. In The Off-shoring Challenge: Strategic Design and Innovation for Tomorrow’s Organization; Pedersen, T., Bals, L., Jensen, P.D.O., Larsen, M.M., Eds.; Springer: London, UK, 2013; pp. 1–18.

4 Kaur, H., 2016. Low Wages, Unsafe Conditions And Harassment: Fashion Must Do More To Protect Female Workers. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2016/mar/08/fashion-industry-protect-women-unsafe-low-wages-harassment[Accessed 7 November 2020].

UK Waste Footprint: Our desire for products, has in part, been fuelled by a constant supply of cheap garmnets, advertisement and social media. However, quick production and high demand has resulted in the UK disposing more than 300,000 tonnes of used clothing (an estimated £140 million worth of textiles) into UK landfill sites per year.1 Moreover, this consumption is estimated to be higher in the UK than any other European country at an estimated rate of 26.7kg per capita.2

Figure 4: UK Landfill and Waste Diagram (Source: Author)

Driven by a combination of ‘fast fashion’ and a shortage of sustainable, raw materials, the UK’s carbon footprint is gradually becoming worse. The magnitude of this is perhaps more comprehensible when we look at the calculated per capita share of annual textile waste.

Almost 10% of all textile waste stays on the market as second hand products and a further 8% is added back to the production cycle through recycling. However, the remaining quantity is permanently disposed of. As such, almost a quarter (24,3%) of all textile waste is incinerated within CO² intensive processes. More than half (57,1%) of this waste ends up in landfills, which are especially harmful to the environment. These figures alone highlight how a shift in consumer habits and more careful consideration to production is required.

1 Wrap.org.uk. 2021. Textiles - Overview | WRAP UK, https://www.wrap.org.uk/content/textiles-overview [Accessed 4 December 2020].

2 Publications.parliament.uk. 2021. Fixing Fashion: Clothing Consumption And Sustainability: Government Response To The Committee’s Sixteenth Report - Environmental Audit Committee - House Of Commons, https:// publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201719/cmselect/cmenvaud/2311/231102.htm [Accessed 14 November 2021].

Figure 5: Textille Landfill and Waste (Source: www.circularonline.co.uk)

Key: Energy Use Water Use Figure 6: Linear Textile Diagram (Source: Author)

Chemical Use Wastage

Traditional Linear Economy: To understand the implications of current systems, we must first explore how the traditional linear economy follows a make, use and dispose pattern.

Dating back to the Industrial Revolution, the linear economy prevails as a predominant model in the economic market. Value within this system is primarily generated by producing and selling as many products as possible. Thus, the linear economy places economic growth and reward above all other criteria.

• • • •

Depletion/reliance on natural resources Pollution Reduced life cycles Accumulation of waste

The alternative circular economy breaks this approach by shifting away from the use of raw materials being extracted, processed and discarded, to one where materials are reused or recycled in order to eliminate waste and close the loop.

Therefore, transitioning to a circular economy not only amounts to adjustments aimed at limiting the impacts of the linear economy, but also represents a systemic shift1 that seeks to construct long-term resilience, business and economic opportunities, and environmental and societal benefits.

1 Ellenmacarthurfoundation.org. 2021. What Is A Circular Economy? | Ellen Macarthur Foundation. [online] Available at: <https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/circular-economy/concept> [Accessed 13 November 2020].

Figure 7: Global Textile Circular Model Concept (Source: Author)

Figure 6 breaks down this process, and reveals how raw materials are collected and transformed into products that are eventually discarded as waste. The process also highlights the waste associated with each step. Consequently, the traditional linear economy is unsustainable, and poses severe consequences to our environment such as:

Linear Textile System:

Circular Textile System:

Existing UK Thread Origin and Types

Proposed UK Thread Origin and Types

Figure 8: An emblem for Change (Source: Institue of Digital Fashion)

Digital Transformation In response to the pressure for growth and cost efficiency, the textile industry has begun to invest in a series of technological initiatives.1 These incentives seek to improve their speed to market, whilst implementing sustainable innovation in their core product design, manufacturing and supply chain processes. Thus, this new phenomenon is virtualising the textile industry, and in doing so, dematerialising garments to challenge and change ingrained perceptions.

Listed below are some of the main principals associated with this digital shift: 1. Consumer Centricity Designers can gain data-based insights into trends and consumer behaviours.

Savings can be reinvested into product creation and quality.

2. Knowledge Exchange: Fewer mistakes are linked with digital fabrication, reducing the time taken and resources needed to transform 2D to 3D designs.

3. Long-term Value: Virtual fittings mean physical samples could be reduced by 70%, helping to reserve factory capacity for finished products and shrinking the industry’s environmental footprint.

The importance of developing new ways of manufacturing fashion is driven by a variety of critical influences: sustainability, reshoring of manufacturing, and employment.2 Therefore, not only does the technological development have the potential to transform the textile industry by digitising global supply chains, it also has the potential to enable sustainable sourcing and production within the supply chain. Thus, technology is increasingly becoming a pivotal enabler of circular business models by using the rise of ‘digital triggers’ to facilitate circular models.

Therefore, not only does the technological development have the potential to transform the textile industry by digitising global supply chains, it also has the potential to enable sustainable sourcing and production within the supply chain. Thus, technology is increasingly becoming a pivotal enabler of circular business models by using the rise of ‘digital triggers’ to facilitate circular models.

1 Publications.parliament.uk. 2021. Fixing Fashion: Clothing Consumption And Sustainability - Environmental Audit Committee. https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm201719/cmselect/cmenvaud/1952/full-report.html [Accessed 5 December 2020].

2 Williamson, J., 2019. Future Fashion Factory: Weaving A New Future For A Historic Industry - The Manufacturer. https://www.themanufacturer.com/articles/future-fashion-factory-weaving-a-new-future-for-a-traditional-industry/ [Accessed 5 December 2020].

Figure 8: Ned Ludd (Source: www.wcml.org.uk)

Technological Threats: Despite the potential associated with a digital future, the role of technology within the textile industry has been mixed. Initial reactions, particularly local businesses, tend to consider technology as a direct threat which destabilises traditional and familial concepts.

Examples regarding these concerns are reflected within the history of British textiles. For instance, at the beginning of the 19th century, introduction of the new wide-framed automated loom, operated by cheap, unskilled labour, triggered severe unrest and hostility within England.1 Whilst working conditions in textile mills were harsh, employment within them required the knowledge and expertise of skilled artisans, which guaranteed locals with a reliable income and livelihood.As technology advanced, factory owners began to invest money in new machinery, replacing workers with faster, cheaper machinery operated by less-skilled, low wage labourers. This threat provoked fear within the community, subsequently encouraging the rise of a movement known as the luddites.

The namesake of the movement, Ned Ludd, was said to be based on an imaginary youth who had smashed two stocking frames during the 1780s.2 The fictitious hero subsequently became emblematic for the protesters. Not only had he become a great outlaw in popular imagination, but he had also become a great leader, often referred to as “King Ludd” or “General Ludd,” with numerous ballads and poems written about him.

Whilst violent riots were very rare due to the threat of severe punishment, members would notoriously be remembered for burning mills and destroying pieces of factory machinery and industrial equipment.

As developing technology threatened the existence and livelihoods of craftsmen, the resistance led to fears of more militant and sinister activities, urging the referral to military ranks, Captain and General, becoming more prevalent. These ranks also associated the movement with Napoleon and France, who were at war with Britain at the time, as intent to provoke as much civil unrest as possible to disrupt Britain’s war effort.

The Luddites were most active within Northern England, however, they gained particular notoriety within West Yorkshire.

2 HISTORY. 2021. Who Were The Luddites?.https://www.history.com/news/who-were-the-luddites [Accessed 6 December 2020].

Figure 10: Luddite Triangle (Source: Author)

Figure 9: Luddite Movement (Source: Author)

Luddite Triangle: Initially, the rise of the luddite movement began in Nottinghamshire in 1811 and quickly spread throughout the country.1 Dubbed the “Luddite Triangle,” the site denotes the main textile regions between Yorkshire, Lancashire and Nottinghamshire where the majority of luddite activity occurred.

In Nottinghamshire, the introduction of new machinery brought protests against wage reductions, whilst in Yorkshire and Lancashire, mass unemployment occurred as new technology replaced workers. With this came concerns of mass poverty; worries which correlated to the prolonged wars with France and an economic crisis, which were already putting strain on other employment opportunities within the regions.2 Letters to employers and the government were ignored, thus, having exhausted all available, peaceful methods of reasoning, the Luddites resorted to violence.

In 1812, the Luddites began a campaign of violence within the West Yorkshire textile districts.

Angered by the introduction of new machinery and neglect of their employers, protesters broke into factories to destroy the new machines and buildings. In some instances, they also attacked employers and magistrates.

In response to this, the British government made machine breaking a capital crime and quickly passed the Frame Breaking Act. Moreover, to settle the unrest, the government also chose to employ more troops in the Peninsula; where luddite activity was particularly concentrated, than Wellington had at his disposal.

1 Nationalarchives.gov.uk. 2021. The National Archives Learning Curve | Power, Politics And Protest | Luddites. https://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/education/politics/g3/ [Accessed 23 November 2020].

2 Andrews, E., 2019. Who Were The Luddites?. HISTORY. https://www.history.com/news/who-were-the-luddites>[Accessed 27 November 2020].

King Nedd Ludd (Emblem)

William Horsfall (Industrialist)

The Luddites (Resistance)

The namesake of the luddite movement, is said to be based upon the story of a youth who allegedly smashed two stocking frames in the 1780s. Not only had he become a great outlaw in popular imagination, but he also become a fictious hero who was emblematic for the machine destroyers.

Horsfall was a wool textile manufacturer and owner of a factory in Marsden. As a strong advocate of using machinery in the production of textiles, he was ambushed and murdered in 1912. Despite a reward of £2,000 being offered, four men were arrested and tried at York Assizes in January 1813. The site of his murder is commemorated by William Horsfall Street.

To suppress the Luddite movement, a mass trial at York in January 1813, following the attack on Cartwrights mill began. Over 60 men, including Mellor and his companions, were charged with Luddite activities. Whilst some were guilty, many had no connection to the movement. The harsh sentences of those found guilty, which included execution and penal transportation, were set as a deterent.

Historical Protagonists: William Horsfall was an illustrious wool textile manufacturer and factory owner. He was also a vocal advocate of the new loom machinery used in the production of textiles. As the Luddites escalated their campaign of violence, he became a target.

Horsfall’s weekly visit to the cloth hall and the route of his journey home were well known.

Consequently, on the 28 April 1812, he was ambushed and shot at by four men near Lane End. He was eventually brought to a local inn (Warren House Inn), where he would later succumb to his injuries at around 8.30am on 30 April.1 The attack spread fear amongst the authorities, leading them to believe there was the potential for a revolution. In attempts to combat this, Huddersfield magistrates prosecuted numerous luddites, and recruited an extensive number of spies/informers in a desperate effort to gain information about the attack from within the closed and secretive ranks of society. However, with fear and mass panic spreading, the rioting and attacks heightened.

On 2nd January 1813, the Special Commission appointed to try the Luddites opened at York.

Over sixty men awaited trial in York Castle on a variety of charges, and all were to be tried under the names of Luddites, despite the majority of them having no connection with the movement.1 This was not to be a demonstration of justice however, but instead, an act used to set an example to the public and outline clearly that any luddite activity would not be tolerated.

Almost a year later, despite a reward of £2,000 being offered, one of the men responsible for Horsfall’s murder came forward in exchange for immunity. The other men involved were subsequently arrested and tried at York Assizes. On the 8th January 1813, George Mellor, William Thorpe and Thomas Smith were were convicted and hanged for Horsfall’s murder.2 Tracing the steps of these historical protagonists, seeks to understand the historical context of textiles and technology within Huddersfield. It also serves as a process which can structure a design that responds to the specific urban and social environment.

1 2012. William Horsfall’s Last Journey: A Luddite History Trail From Huddersfield To Milnsbridge. Huddersfield: University of Huddersfield, pp.1-2. https://www.huddersfieldhistory.org.uk 2 YorkshireLive. 2013. Nostalgia: Following Footsteps Of A Luddite Victim William Horsfall. https://www.examinerlive.co.uk/lifestyle/nostalgia-following-footsteps-luddite-victim-4951302 [Accessed 17 November 2020].

Site Analysis: The location of Huddersfield is based around the River Colne. Along this, a prominence of mills and factories have developed. This in part is due to the soft water properties which are ideal for cleaning and processing raw material. It also enabled goods to be transported. Further connections brought by interconnected main roads and railway further supported trade. Raw materials are supplied by local farms in the surrounding area. Despite Falling into disuse, many of the original mills and factories remain as empty buildings.

Historical Tracing: On the 28 April 1812 after being ambushed and at by four men near Lane End, he was brought to Warren House Inn where he would eventually succumb to his injuries at around 8.30am on 30 April.

The site of the murder is now commemorated by William Horsfall Street although this was not laid out until around a century after his death.

Military Presence: In response to the murder of William Horsfall, the British government made machine breaking a capital crime under the quickly passed the Frame Breaking Act. Moreover, to settle the unrest, the government also chose to employ more troops in the Peninsula, than Wellington had at his disposal in the army. The map depicts this sprawl based on written accounts, and highlights the focused areas.

Whilst violence was very rare, the presence of troops within these areas was thought to ultimately serve as a deterrent to any luddite activities.

Potential Sites: Whilst some of the old mills and factories were demolished or converted into offices and flats, many of the iconic shells still exist as forgotten remnants of a bygone era. Redevelopment of these sites draws inspiration from the circular economy through the process of reuse and upcycle. Retaining and adapting elements with new technological processes, acknowledges the region’s historical context whilst embracing the move towards future development. The region is also provided with the opportunity to utilise and regain wasted, but valuable urban space.

Figure 10: Textile and Technology Timeline (Source: Author)

‘When a material is used in new and unexpected ways, or where its characteristics are presented in an unconventional condition, the level of design is raised.’ ~V.B. Bell

Figure 14: Loom Evolution (Source: Author) Figure 13: Digital Innovation (Source: Fashion Factory, Leeds)

Figure 12: Traditional Craft (Source: Upper Mill Factory)

No trouble at Mill: Handmade has always been closely associated with luxury or superiority; something that is elitist. Whereas the machine has been linked to progress and the future, but simultaneously something that is de-humanisation.

Whilst the digital shift seeks to work more collaboratively in a circular economy to improve our environmental sustainability, recognition of local skills and expertise acknowledges another aspect of sustainability - societal accountability.

The cultural heritage of textiles act as a living traditions inherited from previous generations, which require a unique set of skills and knowledge. As such, handmade crafts have always been inextricably linked with strong, local identity. However, the integrity of these skills are placed under threat by the introduction of new technology, which challenges the old notions and concepts surrounding traditional craft.

In recognising the value and need for preserving traditional skills, preservation of jobs and employment is provided. Moreover, not only does this pay homage to local craft, but also provides continuity to a new generation of designers. Thus, it is important to acknowledge within the context of this thesis, that modern technological advances seek to use technology as a tool to assist, rather than replace.

Figure 11: Huddersfield Mills and Factories (Source: The Yorkshire Examiner)

Huddersfield’s Woolopolis: Huddersfield’s reputation and prosperity has historically, been founded on its textile industry.

The town’s rich heritage within textiles can first be traced back to the medival times, when water powered corn and fulling mills were built beside the River Colne. Due to the soil type of the Colne Valley, which was thin and predominantly non-fertile, surrounding land became unsuitable for crop farming.

Farmers eventually realised the surrounding marginal Pennine hill land was instead, ideal for livestock. Thus, they converted the land to graze sheep, which provided the raw material used for cloth weaving. Moreover, these steep-sided valleys provided fast flowing streams which powered and provided water for the area’s early mills and factories. As a result, more fulling mills were built along the rivers after the mid-16th century as the woollen industry grew.

Thus, another crucial component to the region’s success, was the abundance of locally sourced products. Breeds such as Lonk, Rough Fell and Derbyshire Gritstone, were often owned due to their hardiness, uniformity of coat, and enviable reputation for producing high quality wool.1 At the end of the 18th century, water powered mills subsequently, became pivitol in the industrial expansion of the textile industry; initially for spinning cotton, but eventually for woollens and worsteds.2 In addition to powering and processing raw materials, the rivers further served in the transportation of goods and materials within the Uk, and to exports that were sent across the world.

Hence, Huddersfield soon established a worldwide reputation. Subsequently, ‘Made in Huddersfield,” became synonymous as a highly revered global brand.

In the late 18th century, trade accounted for 33% of all of England’s textile exports. With its local supply of wool and abundance of textile mills, Yorkshire sat at the heart of this trade. During this period, workers learnt highly specialised crafts and skills, which were handed down from generation to generation; families were often employed in the same mill for three generations.

However, during the late 1960s, the decline of Huddersfield’s textile industry began. This was largely due to increased competition and technical advances, as other countries invested in newer, more efficient machinery which required less workers to make cloth quicker. Although mass-production was generally considered inferior quality, garments and products were much cheaper. This decline led to the closure of many businesses.

Today the majority of Huddersfield’s mills are silent, with several standing empty and derelict, reflecting a dark shadow reminder of more prosperous times past.

1 Rare Breeds Survival Trust. 2021. Lonk. https://www.rbst.org.uk/lonk [Accessed 3 January 2021].

2 Powerfromthelandscape.co.uk. 2021. Power From The Landscape | Water Mills In The South Pennines.https://powerfromthelandscape.co.uk/heritage/water-mills-in-the-south-pennines/ [Accessed 6 January 2021]

Weaving a New Future: In order to limit the amount of waste and toxic pollution we create, a focus on sourcing natural raw materials through local procurement is crucial. However, whilst parts of the surrounding Pennines still use the land to graze sheep, what are the other potential possibilities for growing and harvesting alternative raw materials that can be used within the textiles industry?

The site conditions belonging to Huddersfield, such as topography and seasonal temperature within the region vary between -9.4 and 3.9 degrees Celsius.1 Combined with sloped hills and thin soil, the land is most suitable for grazing animals. However, these conditions are also ideal for farming mohair goats, llamas and alpacas (some of which can already be seen within local petting farms). Cashmere also comes from goats, but very little is produced in the UK; most comes from Devon and Scotland, whilst the remaining bulk is imported from Mongolia.2 Therefore, growing locally not only offers more variety, but also reduces our reliance on imported goods which in turn, reduces the UK’s waste footprint.

Whilst the region’s conditions are particularly ideal for livestock, they are less suitable for growing plants. Increases in heat within the urban core of the town however, due to the urban heat island effect, increases the length of growing seasons within the centre of Huddersfield.

Subsequently, the potential for urban growing offers an opportunity to grow plant based raw materials such as hemp or flux. Moreover, the social benefits associated with urban farming, brings a unique opportunity for local people by providing employment and creating a sense of community.

In addition to this, reclaiming neglected factories and converting them to accommodate the production of urban farming follows the notion of a circular system, by reusing and upcycling.

This further ties to the historical context of Huddersfield’s textile past, by reintroducing forgotten and neglected elements of the urban fabric. As a result, local identity is strengthen.

Circular systems within the harvesting, processing and reuse of the potential raw materials which could be incorporated within Huddersfield, strengthen the idea of sustainability by encouraging cycles to recycle and limit waste.

Subsequently, the thesis aims to use Huddersfield as a model for a regional strategy that could be tested on multiple sites, scales and situations, by altering and adjusting the raw materials, processing and limitations of a region, to fit within a network of circular models.

1 Weatherspark.com. Average Weather In Huddersfield, United Kingdom, Year Round - Weather Spark. https://weatherspark.com/y/42023/Average-Weather-in-Huddersfield-United-Kingdom-Year-Round [Accessed 5 December 2020].

2 The Natural Fibre Mohair | The Natural Fibre Company. https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/mohair [Accessed 7 January 2021].

[Digital Loom Machinery]

[Digital Recycling Machinery]

Bibliography: Andrews, E., 2019. Who Were The Luddites?. HISTORY. https://www.history.com/news/who-were-the-luddites>[Accessed 27 November 2020].

Arrigo, E., 2020. Global Sourcing In Fast Fashion Retailers: Sourcing Locations And Sustainability Considerations. Milan, pp.3-4.

Brc.org.uk. 2021. Climate Action Roadmap - Textiles. https://brc.org.uk/climate-roadmap/section-7-pathway-sourcing-sustainably/714-textiles/ [Accessed 17 November 2020].

Bals, L.; Jensen, P.D.Ø.; Larsen, M.M.; Pedersen, T. Exploring layers of complexity in off-shoring research and practice. In The Off-shoring Challenge: Strategic Design and Innovation for Tomorrow’s Organization; Pedersen, T., Bals, L., Jensen, P.D.O., Larsen, M.M., Eds.; Springer: London, UK, 2013; pp. 1–18.

Ellenmacarthurfoundation.org. 2021. What Is A Circular Economy? | Ellen Macarthur Foundation. [online] Available at: <https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/circular-economy/concept> [Accessed 13 November 2020].

Encyclopedia Britannica. 2021. The Rise Of The Machines: Pros And Cons Of The Industrial Revolution.https://www.britannica.com/story/the-rise-of-the-machines-pros-and-cons-of-theindustrial-revolution [Accessed 29 December 2020].

HISTORY. 2021. Who Were The Luddites?.https://www.history.com/news/who-were-the-luddites [Accessed 6 December 2020].

Kaur, H., 2016. Low Wages, Unsafe Conditions And Harassment: Fashion Must Do More To Protect Female Workers. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2016/mar/08/fashion-industry-protect-women-unsafe-low-wages-harassment[Accessed 7 November 2020].

Williamson, J., 2019. Future Fashion Factory: Weaving A New Future For A Historic Industry - The Manufacturer. https://www.themanufacturer.com/articles/future-fashion-factory-weaving-a-new-future-for-a-traditional-industry/ [Accessed 5 December 2020].

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