esf

Christmas makes! WREATH f STOCKING f DECORATIONS f TREE SKIRT

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XMAS 2017 ISSUE 103 £5.99

The UK’s Best-selling Sewing Mag!

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Plus £7,000+ OF PRIZES ·· LIBERTY KEEPSAKES

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SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 09:19 Page 2

Hello... Christmas Who else is rejoicing the fact that autumn is here? Summer activities tend to eat into quality time with our sewing machine – and so the turn of the season is very welcome. If you’ve had a busy few months, sit back and take in all of the stitchy goodness we’re bringing you this issue. Your FREE Simplicity pattern offers four top styles to make up in sizes 4-26 – perfect for sewing with the upcoming festivities in mind.

This issue, we also have other staple pieces to build your wardrobe - find a no-pattern blouse (p18) and waist-tie dress (p26), or get winter-ready with our zip-front skirt (p41), unlined coat (p22) and boatneck top (p38). If you’re thinking of getting ahead on Christmas presents, why not make another for a loved one – for a truly touching gift?

Talking of presents, you’ll find gift ideas galore this month – our elf toy (p69) and Santa towel (p68) are perfect for youngsters, whilst the Liberty kitties (p54) and easy embroidery hoop (p62) are sure to delight. Our fabric wreath (p57), cute mice (p56) and patchwork coasters (p58) work in any fabric – festive or not – personalised to your recipient. Your bonus 20-page Christmas Stitch Book will also help you have your craftiest Christmas yet, with lots of last-min makes too!

Here at Sew HQ, we do our best to support the stitchy community in any way we can – so please join us on Sew Saturday coming up on 21st October, simply by turning up to your local sewing shop. Stores all over the country will be holding a special event, so it’s easy to take part!

26

Our elf mascot having fun!

69

Happy sewing!

30

sew

sewmag.co.uk /templates

20%

Jenny Ward, Sew editor

15

off !

Hurrah! Each reader who names our monthly mascot will win a Madeira case of Aerofil threads.

We’ve arranged 20% off ALL Prym products at Minerva Crafts

MAKE FOUR GO-TO TOPS

HAVE YOU GOT YOUR FREE DOWNLOADS? Look out for our FREE templates and patterns, then download and print them at

sewmag.co.uk/templates

Get in touch! Share your creations, tips and views

@

6

Enjoy your bonus 20-page Christmas Stitch Book!

Find your nearest participating Sew Saturday shop at sewmag .co.uk/local-sewing-shops

free template download

Jenny

10

editorial@ sewmag.co.uk

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�

sew Christmas 2017

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�

IN THIS ISSUE...

IN EVERY ISSUE TEA BREAK 03 WELCOME Come say hello to the Sew team!

HO, WHAT & WEAR 06 W Keep up to date with the sewing world

15 YOU! SEW SOCIAL We love what you’ve been making 48 L OVE YOUR MACHINE Our trusty shopping guide – this month, Janome 77 T HE BOOKSHELF Fuelling your addiction to stitchy titles

30 DIARY DATE SEW SATURDAY 2017 Where will you be on 21st October?

69 XMAS MASCOT HOLLY BERRY Stitch our elf doll

71 XMAS FESTIVE TRIO Whip up quick Christmas makes from fabric scraps

HOME

55 S TUART HILLARD Is crafting for a living all it’s cracked up to be?

KIDS

89 N EXT MONTH Our November issue’s out on 19th October

68 XMAS TREE SKIRT Stitch a cover to make the base as pretty as the branches

58 LIBERTY KITTY PINCUSHIONS Use every scrap of that precious fabric

66 CONFESSIONS OF A SEWING ADDICT Corinne has been suffering withdrawal symptoms

78 T OP OF THE CLASS Learn from the pros!

65 XMAS THE FABRIC EDIT Please take your seats for The Nutcracker

56 XMAS SCANDI WONDERLAND Cute 1-hour projects to make!

36 GET YOUR GLITZ ON! How to sew yourself the perfect luxe party outfit

68 XMAS SANTA BABY TOWEL Perfect for bath time on Christmas Eve

68

GIFTS

60 XMAS SIMPLY SCANDILOUS Add red and white Nordic cheer to your home

�

62 XMAS SUSIE JOHNS’ FESTIVE HOOP Learn chevron stitch and embroider a simple tree

62 69

58 60

56 04

sewmag.co.uk Contents 103.indd 4

08/09/2017 16:58

18

DRESSMAKING

39

pages of fashion, garments & more!

FREE THIS MONTH...

WIN! on page 73

Get the party started by stitching a glamorous yet easy to sew top with an unexpected surprise at the back!

FREEBIES & OFFERS 06 DISCOUNT 20% OFF PRYM products at Minerva Crafts

43 V OUCHER £10 MYFABRICS Bag a bargain today IFT SUBSCRIBE TODAY 46 G Get a FREE little black dress kit

09 COVER STAR PARTY TOPS Try your hand at unusual fabrics to make your FREE pattern

72 WIN A JANOME EMBROIDERY MACHINE worth £999 each!

73 BUMPER GIVEAWAYS Spread the word, we have £7,350 worth of prizes!

85 FREE METRE OF FABRIC 88 OFFER CHRISTMAS WRAPPED UP Bag a discounted subscription to Sew or our sister mags, it’s the perfect gift!

TEFANI BLOUSE Transform drapey 18 S fabrics into a made-to-measure showstopper 20 SHINE BRIGHT Our pick of sequined fabrics

41

22 SERENA COAT No lining, fastenings, or fuss!

25 FRANCES TOBIN Our fashion industry insider advises on dressing for Christmas parties 26 E ASY SHAKIRA DRESS You won’t believe how easy this is to create

90 DISCOUNT 25% OFF The Ultimate wrap dress from Sew Over It

28 XMAS FESTIVE CHEER It wouldn’t be Christmas without all the trimmings

22

29 SEWING WITH MAY MARTIN Are your buttonholes up to scratch?

32 INDIE PATTERN NEWS Our top picks of must-stitch makes this month 35 LAUREN GUTHRIE On sewing a winter coat 38 MALLORY TOP Create a boat-neck design with only three pattern pieces!

41 MASTERCLASS CONNIE SKIRT Perfect darts, facings and inserting a zip

26

44 SEWING SOS The patterns and fabrics you need for this year’s hottest trends 51 STITCH THE LOOK Give scuba fabrics a go 52 B ONUS 4 GARMENT DOWNLOADS Check out our top projects online 53 L EARN WITH YUKO TAKADA Make a stripey top with epaulette details 86 YOUR SEWING GUIDE Sew like a pro!

90 THE WRAP DRESS Find out how this simple garment empowers women

FREE NEXT MONTH

Subscribe

TODAY!

FOUR OCCASION TOPS IN SIZES 4-26!

FREE*LITTLE BLACK DRESS KIT ON P46 05

sewmag.co.uk Contents 103.indd 5

08/09/2017 16:59

wear

who what

&

Organising a nationwide event like Sew Saturday is full of surprises – one of the best has been seeing the incredible number of fabric shops going strong all across the country.

We’re compiling them (900 and counting!) into an interactive map that’s easy and FREE to use, so you can be blown away too! So, whether you’re wondering where the party’s at on 21st October or need to make a quick supply dash whilst on a minibreak, check it out at sewmag. co.uk/local-sewing-shops

There’s something comforting about cuddly animals wearing hats and scarves, isn’t there? These curious yet cute designs are what makes the festive season special, and you’ll find plenty of them at Kawaii Fabric, with free shipping to the UK on orders over £55. Get high-quality, branded fabrics from America and Japan, like this fat quarter bundle of Robert Kaufman’s Frosty Friends collection. £29.89, kawaiifabric.com

If you love the retro look, get your hands on Simplicity’s limited edition vintage gift collection before it’s all gone. The range includes this cute tin, a make up bag, planner, 2018 calendar and more! Find out more at simplicitynewlook.com

The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

Long live the haberdashery

Dreaming of a cute Christmas

gifts sorted

20%*

off Prym with code

SEWPRYM20

Prym to the brim If your stash is anything like ours, it’s chockfull of Prym goodies, from reliable needles and pins up to sturdy buckles and everything in between. Stock up with a fab discount* on Prym at tinyurl.com/ MinervaPrym – don’t miss out! *Valid from 20/09/17 to 31/10/17 on Prym sewing products at minervacrafts.com. Discount cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

06

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HOT OFF THE PRESS

This is one of our very favourite new releases from Simplicity, which has been giving us serious nostalgia and skirt envy in the whirlwind of the pattern house’s 90th anniversary celebrations.

Stitch a circle skirt worthy of the Pink Ladies themselves and enjoy making – wait for it – the vintage poodle appliqué, which is included with the pattern!

Simplicity 8446. £8.95, simplicity newlook.com

if you buy one pattern...

The whole point of the sweater and shirt combo (apart from looking preppy-chic) is being able to remove the knitwear when it’s hot – so don’t leave yourself with a boring blouse underneath! With a great choice of sleeve and hem lengths, as well as options for the front and neck bands, yoke and collar, this pattern offers both comfort and a choice of styles. New Look 6266, £6.95, simplicitynewlook.com

want it, need it, BUY IT!

Call Santa, quick! Janome’s brand new computerised sewing machine is pretty much everything the modern sewist needs. It’s compact, light and user-friendly, but still packs a punch, boasting 30 built-in stitches (including three buttonholes) and going up to a whopping 820 stitches per minute. £299, janome.co.uk

Blouse, £100, knitwear, £75, bettybarclay.com

Sewing Bumblebee

liberty’s english garden

We couldn’t bee more pleased about Stuart Hillard’s first fabric collection and so there’s a real buzz in Sew HQ about it... If you’ve had enough of our puns, you can read more from Stuart himself on p55 and find the range on Create and Craft TV and at Hobbycraft.

Fabric powerhouse Liberty has launched an exciting collection of 23 cottons available in three colourways – perfectly scaled for quilting and featuring the trademark prints we all know and love. Find your nearest stockist at eqsuk.com 07

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SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 12:32 Page 8

sew DRESSMAKING

dress

the

making

sew cover star

collection

Now it's cooler, our wardrobes are crying out for some new pieces. This month’s FREE Simplicity pattern lets you explore luxe fabrics, whilst our wool coat, A-line skirt and top all bring some muchneeded warmth. Or, the no-pattern dress and blouse are comfy and chic, made up in elegant crepe.

Shakira dress, p26

Serena coat, p22

Mallory top, p38

Stefani blouse, p18

your free pattern

Turn the page to get started with your FREE pattern!

help

here to

Connie skirt, p41 KATIE MATTHEWS

FIONA HESFORD

LISA COMFORT

AMANDA WALKER

The craft enthusiast from Tilly and the Buttons talks party stitching!

Our designer takes you through making the perfect winter skirt.

The vintagelover answers on sewing glam pieces for a work do.

Add a winter coat to your wardrobe with Amanda’s stylish pattern.

P36

P41

P45

P22

09

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your free pattern

of your

FREE

pattern

potential

Discover the

Our Christmas gift to you, your FREE PARTY TOPS PATTERN worth £8.95, will get you ready for festivities with its fab CROSSOVER BACK with a choice of lengths. The simple designs are a great introduction to inserting sleeves and working with a CHOICE OF FABRICS, including drapey materials and sequins. With no fastenings to contend with, you can START RIGHT AWAY!

We used Gütermann sew-all thread in colour 495 to match our fabric. £1.85, minervacrafts.com

pop in a PIN

Using regular pins on sequin fabrics won’t do any harm, but you might find that the surface becomes cluttered as they get in the way of sequins. Sequin and bead pins are a little shorter and don’t have a bulky head, which allows you to prepare embellished fabric for stitching more neatly.

take a NAP pick a THREAD If using a sequin fabric, use the same thread you usually would with the base fabric the sequins are attached to – most commonly this will be organza, tulle, mesh or jersey, so sew-all thread is a safe option. However, if working with delicate fabric and small sequins, you might like to use an extra-fine thread.

need a NEEDLE Don’t sew through large, thick sequins – it can potentially damage your machine – remove them along the seam allowance before sewing with a regular needle. Fine sequins can be sewn over cautiously using a brand new needle that is very strong and sharp, such as a leather needle. Have extra to hand in case of any breakages.

feel GOOD

Sequins are often arranged on fabric in a one-way design because of the way the discs are layered over one another. If a fabric changes appearance from different angles, you’ll need to follow the fabric requirement and cutting layout for fabric that has a nap to ensure all pieces look consistent when sewn together.

love that DRAPE This garment will look best when made up with drapey fabrics, but working with these for the first time can be daunting. A little prep will be a big help – snipping large fabric lengths into smaller pieces before cutting the pattern and temporarily stiffening the fabric with starch spray will prevent distortion.

20%* off Prym

with code SEWPRYM20 Valid from 20/09/17 to 31/10/17 on Prym sewing products at tinyurl.com/MinervaPrym.

Discount cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

Prevent unwanted ravelling after removing sequins from the seam allowance.

Prym fray check, £5.99, minervacrafts.com

We used Prym leather sewing machine needles to avoid breakages. £2.69, minervacrafts.com

Check the wrong side of your fabric – if it is uncomfortable you may need to create a lining. The sequin side may scratch against the skin, so encase all seam allowances in simple bias binding to avoid irritation. To reduce bulk, trim the allowance, press it open and Prym cotton bias slip single-fold binding binding tape, 69p per metre, on top. minervacrafts.com

Prym sequin and bead pins, £3.09, minervacrafts.com

Comfy crossover back!

10

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E

sew DRESSMAKING

3 pattern

your free pattern

style selector

pieces!

Which sleeve and hem combination is your favourite? Here’s how we would style each one...

style a

mes This fabatollpy co together re quickly!

LONG AND SLEEK For a smart look, team a pencil skirt with this dipped hem sleeveless top.

style b WORKING WONDER A pair of fitted slacks looks chic paired with this top for a casual workwear style.

s, m

style c STRIKE A BALANCE Layer this shorter, sleeved version over a simple slip dress for a subtly glam dinner outfit.

style d EVERYDAY BASICS This simple view would work well at the weekend with a pair of slim-leg jeans.

why we made STYLE B

The elbow-length sleeves are flattering and elegant, whilst the dipped back hem adds interest.

The sleeves are easy to insert too!

11

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the perfect

size

the right

fit

your free pattern

what’s your size?

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in the high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

which size?

This is a loose fit garment that, because of the crossover back, doesn’t close fully and has lots of ease – so check the finished measurements (at the bottom of your size column on the envelope) against a top you like the fit of, and adjust the pattern if necessary.

rs to Use old shea cut through sequins!

TURN TO P86 FOR MORE USEFUL FITTING AND MEASURING ADVICE

Got your back If you aren’t comfortable with revealing your back, hack the pattern so you don’t have to layer up every time you wear it. Simply tack the two back pieces together at the lowest possible point, extending one of the pattern pieces to the side if you want even more coverage

EXTRA TIPS FOR SEWING SEQUIN FABRICS

Your ideal length

3 Cut in a single layer – if you need to, flip a pattern piece over instead of cutting on the fold.

3 Don’t use a hot iron as sequins are usually plastic, but do press to flatten seams.

3 Wear glasses or safety goggles to protect your eyes from rogue sequins.

3 Use an invisible or matching thread to hand sew sequins onto ‘bald spots’ near seams.

How the hem tails fall at your hips may affect the overall shape of the top, especially if you have proportionally larger hips. If this is the case, consider stitching versions C or D, or adding an invisible fastener between the back pieces at your waistline.

12

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sew DRESSMAKING

attention

to

detail

Stitch it

to last...

Stay stitching The suggested fabrics for this garment are stretchy with good drape, which look great on the finished garment but as the back pieces are cut across the bias, these can stretch if you aren’t careful.

An easy way to avoid this is to sew a single row of straight stitches within the seam allowance of each diagonal edge. This will prevent your back pieces from sagging.

Skirt, RJR John Rocha at Debenhams, Bag, £7.99, H&M, Shoes from a selection at Debenhams

s an na!ll i y l u r t Thisasion patter occ

Next month’s FREE pattern

sew

SHOPPER ************************

GIVE IT GLAM

Matte sequinned tulle in silver, £16.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

PERFECT PARTY DRESS

A flattering full-skirted dress with bodice and sleeve variations, perfect for the party season, in sizes 8-18.

13

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4 fab styles

SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 09:19 Page 14

sew YOU!

What a talented bunch! You’ve been sharing your makes and we love what we see d away suddenly After Grandad passe ah elephant from ull Tal de in April, I ma ry bear pattern August and the memo his shirts and ng usi w from July’s Se children.

T-shirts to give to our grand

My daughter Evelyn completely stole the show recently at a Scottish wedding.

I started sewing this when I found out I was pregnant, using New Look 6443 and a lovely pink tartan from Minerva Crafts.

Kayleigh Moon

Sandra Heslop

My new bobbin storage, made with just some 2.5cm-wide test tubes and nails. Now I don’t have to detangle all of my bobbins every time I need one!

Haley Potts

I stitched the Colette Patterns Moneta dress with sleeves (and pockets!) with a world map printed fabric from Abakhan Fabrics.

Jolanta Klatt

p69

Say Hell o to Holly Be rry!

Whilst camping in France recently, I embroidered this stitchy design – and a few others too!

Sarah Mayhew

choose a name with Each month on Facebook we ask you to help us choose a name for our upcoming issue’s mascot

“Holly and Berry are very traditional at Christmas – and also feature on the material!”

Catherine Anderson, Sew reader

Help us choose a name for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq 15

sewmag.co.uk

Catherine has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk

Continued overleaf

social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

www.minervacrafts.com

Write in and WIN! rld out of this wo

Betty Howard King

I’ve made a cushion from Michael Miller’s Retro Rocket Rascals fabric, complete with coordinating red piping!

Claire Dolby

I love stitching things for new babies.

Here’s a cute stuffed doll with a little baby that I stitched. I’ve made a couple of them now...

Here is the ho oded Lucky Girl D ress

by Lucy Blair e that I stitched from knit fabric fo r my Granddaught er.

Jill Swire

Wendy Cross

le This is an Amish puzztoy) ball (interactive softne that I made for my w Grandson.

Kathy Trigwell

Emma Franklin Sewing gives me a sense of achievement, making something for me that fits and no-one else will have.

it’s a wrap I’ve only been sewing a few months! Here’s a super soft wrap ct dress I made – perfe for date night.

Kym Salisbury

I’ve just finished New Look 6262 that came free with issue 86 of Sew. I made version D, changing from a back zip to a side one so that I didn’t have to pattern match!

Lynne Hammond

on the sew blog...

New!

New!

New!

Watch Sew designer Corinne’s great trick that makes light work of this technique.

Find out all you need to know about assembling PDF dressmaking patterns.

Find out how to embellish a cushion and baby blanket with Cricut!

Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 16

sewmag.co.uk

sew YOU!

HHHH HH

This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

sew

H

tag your

make!

WE ASKED, YOU DECIDED!

STAR

Your favourite garment from our October issue was the Shauna coatigan.

Watch out for our reaction poll on Facebook to have your say.

letter

H

#SEWTAGYOURMAKE @sewhq Here’s my version of the tote bag from July’s Sew. I used a wavy stitch on my machine rather than a freemotion foot. Julie Wilton #SewTagYourMake

Julie has won a bundle of fat quarters by Gütermann. To find out how to enter, turn to p73!

stitch&share

ove sisterly l Sarah Rose

ugh Sew, my sister Whilst flicking thro in love with the Lottie jacket. popped in and fell w (I’m trying to get her into As she doesn’t se it for her, using the navy it), I agreed to make bric used in the magazine, fa version of the Ditto sew with. I have only been to ly ve st go at which was lo hs – this was my fir sewing for 18 mont a bit of a phobia. However, d buttonholes as I ha d the pattern really easy to un fo d an ed tis over the I prac the result. Sarah is follow, and here is w over my fear, thank you! moon and I am no nar

triumphs with Sew! hy itc st st te la ur yo e Shar

All tied up I upcycled a number of unused men’s ties into two cushions.

Delphine Brooks

Amanda Bon

Rachel Vanhinsbergh

Sewing distracts me from my nagging worries and unleashes my inner sewing goddess!

too cool for school I taught a class recently where students made full circle skirts using just two measurements. My own (far right) was once a duvet cover and I’m absolutely in love with it!

Maddison Langford

Jules Robinson Sewing has helped me deal with the sudden death of my Dad at the start of the year. I can get lost in my own little world and be creative.

Team spirit Making key fobs for my fellow lady bowlers in burgundy and gold – our team colours.

Sheila Gwilliam

Summer fun My 11-year-old granddaughter Caitlin and I had a lot of fun stitching Roxy, after we chose her name together for the September issue of Sew. Hazel Syrett

Share your makes via social media or send by email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 17

sewmag.co.uk

Steal the show in a gorgeous

STEFANI BLOUSE

This loose-fitting top pattern works well in virtually any fabric, but when stitched in the elegant triple crepe used by Amanda Walker, it makes for a great party piece. It is simply cut, so it's perfect for beginners and any stitcher looking for a quick-sew project. You could also easily lengthen it to create a shift dress, tapering the skirt slightly to suit your body shape.

stitch a CHIC BLOUSE

Cutting guide Hip ÷ 4 + 24cm

BACK NECKLINE

21.5cm

Get started

7.5cm

5cm

11.5cm

• Fabric, 1.5m

90°

Sizes

24cm

FRONT NECKLINE

Note: begin by taking your hip measurement Front/back: cut four (quarter of hip plus 24cm) x 72cm rectangles Neckband: cut one 5cm x 74cm strip on the bias Cuff: cut two 10cm x 45cm strips Belt: cut one 14cm x 152cm strip Belt loops: cut two 3cm x 10cm strips 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

1

Cut out all pieces according to the cutting guide. Pair up two front/back pieces right sides together, then transfer the markings from the diagram above for the front neckline. Repeat with the second pair and the back neckline. Snip the front and back pieces, then neaten the centre and shoulder seams.

2

Pin the back pieces right sides together, then stitch down the centre seam and press it open. Lay one front piece on top, right sides together, then pin and stitch the shoulder. Press the seam allowance open. Repeat with the second front piece.

Fold

Cutting guide

The only difference between the front and back pieces lies in the neckline!

3

Fold the neckband in half lengthways and press. Match the raw edges to that of the neckline and pin in place, beginning at the centre-front seam and working around the back to meet in the centre again. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance, then neaten the raw edges.

Press the seam downwards, then trim any excess neckband from the centrefront seams.

Cut four (one pair with back neckline, one pair with front neckline)

Hip ÷ 4 + 12cm

stitch the side seams. Trim the seam allowance to 7.5mm to reduce bulk and neaten or clip along the curve of the underarm.

5

Fold a cuff piece in half widthways, right sides together. Stitch along the short edge to form a ring, then fold this in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Press, then place this around the ends of a sleeve, matching the raw edges and lining up the seams.

Pin in place, stitch with a 1cm allowance, then neaten the raw edges. Repeat this process with the other sleeve.

4

Pin the front pieces right sides together and stitch the centrefront seam, being careful to match the neckband into a neat ‘V’ shape. Lay the front and back pieces with right sides together, then pin and

5cm

72cm

Custom-sized

6

Neaten the bottom edge, then press up a 4cm hem and stitch in place. Fold the belt strip in half lengthways, right sides together, then snip each end at an angle. Stitch around, leaving a gap in the centre. Turn right sides out through the gap. Press, then slip stitch the gap closed.

7

Neaten one long edge of a belt loop, fold each long edge in by 1cm and press. Lay the neat edge on top of the raw one, then stitch. Fold each end in by 1cm, pin onto the top beside a side seam, 15cm up from the base.

Stitch across each end to secure.

18

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08/09/2017 16:55

sew DRESSMAKING

If you would like some extra help with the neckline, find the template at sewmag. co.uk/templates

sew

SHOPPER

Skirt, £14.99, H&M, Bag, £69.99, TK Maxx

************************

OUT OF YOUR SHELL This luxe heavy triple crepe hangs and drapes beautifully, and has a slightly crinkled texture. £16.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

19

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08/09/2017 16:55

shine

BRIGHT No two sequin fabrics are alike – they vary widely not only in the type of embellishment on display but also in terms of the base material and even in how they're attached to it. Here, we've gathered a mixture of sparkly yardages where pretty detailing has been stitched and glued onto everything from mesh and Lycra to satin and pleather! You can find tips for sewing with these fabrics on p10.

1 2 3

Stretch Lycra dancewear in pink pearl, £22.99 per metre

Sequin satin in white, £4.99 per metre

Faux leather with faux leather sequins in pearl, £17.99 per metre

4 5 6 7

2 3 1 7

3mm round sequins in pale blue, £3.99 per metre

Diamante voile in pale pink, £3.99 per metre

Hologram sequin net fabric in ivory, £4.99 per metre

Reversible mermaid fabric in turquoise and cream, £27.99 per metre

6

4 5

All of the featured fabrics are available at minervacrafts.com

20

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SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 09:19 Page 21

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew a WINTER COAT Get started

• Boiled wool, 3.3m (150cm wide)

Size

One size (fits 8-16, hanging accordingly to your shape)

Cutting guide

Back: cut one on the fold Front: cut one pair Front facing: cut one pair Sleeve: cut two on the fold Pocket: cut two 1.5cm seam allowance used unless specified otherwise.

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Check your bust and hip measurement against the pattern to ensure that it will fit you.

Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide and transfer all of the markings. Turn the top part of the pockets over along the fold line and stitch both ends down.

Clip the corners, then turn the pocket facings back to the wrong side. Fold and press a 1cm seam allowance on the three remaining edges. Pin the pockets in position as marked on the front coat pieces and edge stitch in place.

2

Lay the front coat pieces on top of each other, right sides together, matching the centre back collar. Tack this seam together and press open. Position the back coat onto the front, matching the shoulder seams.

Stay cosy during the winter months by making a

SERENA COAT As the weather turns cooler, it's time to consider making a new winter coat. If you're short on time or experience however, Amanda Walker's simple design is the perfect project to get you started. As it's made from boiled wool which doesn't fray, there is no need for a lining – plus there are no buttonholes or fastenings to contend with. Use blind hem stitch when attaching the front facings for a professional finish.

Clip to the dot marked on the front coat to release the neckline – this allows the back-neck and the collar neck to match together. Pin across the shoulders and neckline, matching the centre back neckline to the seam at the back of the collar. Stitch the seam together in one continuous line.

3

Lay the front facings together, stitch down the centre back of the collar and press the seam open. Pin the facing around the outer edge of the collar and down each front edge, then stitch, starting at the bottom, going up, around the collar, and down to the base of the adjacent front edge. At the bottom edge of each facing, fold up a 3cm hem and stitch across at this point. Clip the corners and turn the facings to the inside of the coat.

4

Turn under the neck edge of the front facing along the stitching line and hand sew the folded edge to the neckline of the coat. Clip to the dot marked on the pattern so the seam allowance can be turned under and sit along the beginning of the shoulder seams.

Position the sleeves at the armholes, matching the notch in the head of the sleeve to the ends of the shoulder seams. Pin, stitch and press the seam allowances.

5

Turn the coat wrong side out, matching the under sleeves and the side seams together. Pin, then stitch in one continuous seam from the base of the sleeve to the hem of the coat. Press open. Iron the 3cm hems around the base of the sleeves and the coat, pin, then hem by hand. Blind hem stitch the edges of the facing to secure them in place (see Core Skill panel, right).

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To assemble, the two front pieces are joined at the centre back collar before joining to the back piece at the shoulders

sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill: BLIND STITCH

This technique creates stitches that are almost invisible on the outside.

Neaten the raw edge, then turn up the hem. Tack in position, 5mm from the neatened edge. Fold the garment along the tacked line, away from the hem so that the neatened edge is on the right. Prepare your sewing machine with a blindstitch foot to the right of the fold, adjusting the stitch width so that the zigzag stitch just catches the fold, and sew the hem. Take a few minutes to position it to ensure the stitch is invisible on the right side of the garment.

sew

SHOPPER

Shoes, £25, Marks & Spencer, Jeans, £24.99, T.K. Maxx

************************

WONDER WOOL This mint green plain wool fabric makes for a cosy coat. £20.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

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SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 09:19 Page 24

Festive Glamour Collection May Martin wearing Fabric Lands' Sequin Blitz Lopho, from our festive season glamour collection.

119CM WIDE £9.99MTR. THE PATTERN MAY USED WAS NEW LOOK 6261 @ £6.95

"This fabric gives instant sparkle to a special occasion. I found it difficult to choose from the many gorgeous colours. I was impressed with how well it seamed and pressed.” - May. May has been a loyal customer of Fabric Land for many years, choosing to wear our brand gives our products great integrity.

As usual May is Sew on Trend!

Buy in stores or online at www.fabricland.co.uk

�

With festivities on the horizon, Frances Tobin tells us how to get

�

sew DRESSMAKING

�

PARTY READY! I love Christmas – all that excitement and anticipation in the air, people to see and parties to go to, but what to wear? There’s an awful temptation to get too dressed up. This year, I’m advocating a subtle and wearable approach to party dressing - yes, you can still look special without having to compete with the Christmas tree!

Choose STYLE Let’s start with party dresses – many of us may not want to go for the clingiest style in the sparkliest fabric. In order to avoid feeling overdressed, choose either a striking style like bodycon or a ‘Here I am’ fabric, rather than both together. Why not recreate your favourite day dress in a beautiful silk or other evening wear fabric? Accessorise it with the current must-have shoulder-skimming earrings for an instant party look. Alternatively, if you enjoy wearing figure-hugging styles, think one colour in a plush or sheened fabric for a more sophisticated and alluring look. I wear a lot of separates myself, and like to mix a festive item with something more ‘everyday’. I have several stretch pencil skirts in metallic, sheened and sequined fabrics that I team simply with cashmere crew-necked sweaters.

Metallic fabrics are continuing to be a strong fashion trend this season and come into their own at this time of year. Instead of the more obvious pairing of black with gold or silver, try something more subtle. Think tonal dressing; put pale grey with silver, cream with gold or pale pink with copper. Less bling but equally luxe, velvets and satins are everywhere on the catwalks, and are being worn for day as well as evening wear this season. I’m planning to add a pair of drapey, viscose/velvet wide-legged trousers to my festive wardrobe. I’ll pair them with a satin blouse or a simple sweater! I’ve also noticed that deep jewel colours are being mixed with tonal mid-hued colours, which is great for those who prefer wearing smaller pops of colour. Not everyone dares to wear it but red really is the colour of the season and looks stunning head to toe.

“Recreate your favourite day dress in a beautiful silk or other luxe fabric for the evening.”

Material NEEDS With all these speciality fabrics, different sewing techniques are required. If you are inexperienced, perfect your sewing skills on an offcut before committing to a whole garment.

For mass-produced sequinned fabrics, I’ve found that I can cut and stitch straight through the sequins, although this blunts the needle faster than normal. If your garment isn’t lined however, the sequins can catch on underwear or scratch your skin – so I carefully snip away the sequins on the seam allowance. Silks, satins and viscose velvets always need a suitable needle for finer fabrics. I find these slippery and piled fabrics are the most difficult to work with, so I tack every single seam then use a walking foot on piled fabrics and a ‘Stitch & Tear’ stabilising paper for buttonholes. If you are tempted to work with stretch metallics in PU or coated jersey, use a ballpoint or jersey needle. You may find the metallic surface sticks to your ordinary machine foot; if this happens, invest in a Teflon foot. Whatever you choose to make, enjoy it.

That way you’ll get more pleasure when you wear it. Happy Christmas!

You can find more of France’s patterns and guidance in her book, launched earlier this year, THE MAKER’S ATELIER: The Essential Collection (£30, Quadrille).

Satin blouse and pencil skirt

Satin bomber, Essential collect ion

from the Remove sequinsance seam allow

Photography by Amelia Shepherd for The Maker’s Atelier

the luxe EFFECT

skirt, Stretch pencil ction lle co l Essentia

Browse Frances’ range of patterns and more at themakersatelier.com 25

sewmag.co.uk FrancesTobin 103.indd 2

08/09/2017 13:55

Use our simple diagram to draft your own

SHAKIRA DRESS Cutting diagram

โ ข Fabric, 2.2m (1.5m wide)

Hip รท 4 + 40cm

Sizes

11.5cm

Custom-sized

Cutting guide

Cut two on the fold (one back neckline, one front)

Size adjusting line

Fold

105cm

1.5cm seam allowance used unless specified otherwise.

BACK NECKLINE

FRONT NECKLINE

Note: start by taking your hip measurement Dress: cut two 1.05m x (half of hip plus 80cm) rectangles Neckband: cut one 5cm x 72cm strip on the bias Belt: cut one 12cm x 1.4m strip

12cm

4cm

30cm

Get started

Adjust sleeve length

sew a PARTY FROCK

Have you ever seen such an effortless dress? This beauty by Amanda Walker is simply comprised of two nearly identical pieces that are finished with an easy neckband. You don't need to shape the body as this is done with a tie-belt. If you prefer a more narrow sleeve, find out how to adjust the pattern in the Core Skills panel.

Adju st sle

eve wid

th

7.5cm

1

Cut out all pieces according to the cutting guide. Fold one dress piece in half lengthways, right sides together, and transfer the markings onto it as indicated on the diagram, drawing the front neckline. Repeat for the second piece, this time drawing the back neckline. Cut out both dress pieces, then neaten the raw edges of the shoulder and upper sleeve.

2

Lay the front and back pieces right sides together, matching the shoulder and upper sleeve seams. Pin, stitch, then press the seam allowances open. Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, then stitch across the short edge. Fold the resulting circle in half lengthways with wrong sides together and press.

Hip รท 4 + 7.5cm

3

Match the joining seam of the neckline to the centre back of the neckline, lining up the raw edges and stretching the neckband slightly. Stitch around with a 1cm seam allowance, then neaten all the raw edges. Press the seam downwards so the neckband sits flush with the main dress.

4

For added interest, make the neckband and belt in a contrast fabric

Lay the front and back right sides together. Match and pin the lower sleeve and side seams together, then stitch each in one continuous line. Trim the seam allowance to 7.5mm and neaten or clip along the underarm curve. Turn in by 3cm at both the sleeve cuffs and base hemline, press, then stitch.

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5

Fold the belt strip in half lengthways, right sides together, then snip each end at an angle. Stitch the raw edges with a 1cm seam, leaving a gap in the centre. Trim the bulk from the corners, then turn the tie right side out through the gap. Push out the corners, then press before slip stitching the gap closed.

sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

ADJUSTING SLEEVES If you prefer close-fitting sleeves, this pattern can easily be modified to suit. Measure around the widest part of your upper arm, divide that number in two and add 6cm for ease. Extend the straight side seam higher and shifting the underarm curve up (see diagram) so that the width matches your measurement rather than 30cm.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

Necklace, £16, Wallis, Bag, £12.99, TK Maxx

CHANGE YOUR SPOTS Choose a fabric with great drape for the best results, like this polycrepe in patterned blue and mauve. £8.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

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1 JINGLE BELLS

Be there with bells on literally! Thread these onto a length of thread to attach them like sequins, or stitch on individually. As a bonus, they make that oh-so-familiar sound, mercifully softly.

Trimits jingle bells, £1 for six, email groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

2 SEQUIN TRIM

Glam up knitwear by spelling a festive message or adorning cuffs and hems. A few hand stitches at regular intervals will quickly secure it without affecting the elasticity. Trimits stretch sequin trim, £3.40 per metre, email groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

3 MINI DECS

Swap in festive buttons for a subtle look - just ensure they fit the existing buttonholes. These ones are available in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, materials and designs, too. Groves Trim Collection carded buttons, email groves@stockist enquiries.co.uk

4 POMPOMS

The traditional Crimbo colour combo is made cuter still with a fluffy trim. This one’s on flexible wire, so it will work well on more structured items too – festive headpiece, anyone? Pompom trim, £1.35 per metre, plushaddict.co.uk

5 REINDEER

If you prefer natural tones to glitz and glam, this ribbon of Santa’s sleigh team would look chic stitched along the collar of a simple blouse, but would also work as the finishing touch to an appliqué sleigh. Prancing reindeer trim, £1.63 per metre, plushaddict.co.uk

1

festive

CHEER

2 3

DIY Christmas jumper

Create your own upcycled festive attire by arranging trims in a motif like we have done here, then stitch or glue them onto a plain garment.

If you want your jumper to shine brighter, why not add a string of LED lights and stitch a hidden pocket on the inside to house the battery pack?

4

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Sewing with MayMartin M

WHAT I’VE BEEN MAKING THIS MONTH

I’ve just made a lovely little pinafore dress for one of my granddaughters. The fabric had a cerise design on a navy background, so I scoured the shops for a little cerise top to complete the outfit but was out of luck. Instead, I took an inexpensive adult’s jersey top in the right colour and re-cut it to fit – perfect!

While exploring a website devoted to various decorative napkin folds recently, I was inspired by the lotus blossom design to create a simple yet pretty festive decoration. You can find several step-by-step guides to the lotus blossom fold online but instead of a napkin, you fold a neatened 40cm square of Christmas fabric. Stand a glass tea light onto the finished flower to add a festive finishing touch to your dining table.

I’ve also been teaching one of my granddaughters to sew – small projects are a fun way to learn. We both made a roll-up pencil case with pockets, zips and a flap with a buttonhole, plus ties to secure.

We had a great day and I’ll be adding it as a gift idea to my Christmas workshops.

Tidies for pencils, make up brushes and knitting needles make great Christmas presents. Sew has several FREE projects online, including a wrap-style brush holder – check out sewmag.co.uk/free-sewing-patterns for some stitchy inspiration.

Happy sewing,

May

SEW’S EXCLUSIVE COLUMNIST REVEALS HOW TO SEW THE PERFECT BUTTONHOLE Buttonholes provide the finishing touch to many a dressmaking or soft furnishing project, and so it’s useful to get the hang of sewing them on your machine. As a rule, a buttonhole should be 3mm bigger than the button.

In addition, the fabric needs to be supported by a facing and possibly some interfacing as this area of the garment will be under constant wear.

PREPARING TO SEW l Mark the buttonhole position with a row of tacking

or a retractable chalk pencil.

l Experiment with loosening the top tension on your sewing

machine by setting to a lower number. This will allow a rounder stitch to form on the right side of the buttonhole. l Practise the buttonhole on similar layers of fabric to those in your project first.

MAKING THE CUT Cut the buttonhole using either a small chisel or seam ripper.

When using the latter, always put a pin in either end of the buttonhole to stop the ripper accidentally cutting into the edge of the garment.

When I was in the sixth form at school, I made a raincoat to take on a biology field trip. The night before, I made the buttonholes but forgot to put pins in the ends and cut through them straight to the front of the coat!

If using a thick denim, flatten the area first!

SEWING UP Depending on your machine model, a buttonhole can be worked in several ways – check the manual to see how yours works one and go from there.

One-step buttonhole These are created when the buttonhole foot has the back extended and the button has been inserted. There is a lever behind the foot that needs to be pulled down to engage with it – otherwise the machine will have no reference of the required buttonhole length and won’t work.

Experiment w machine’s tenitsh your depending on y ion our fabric

May’s

TOP TIPS

Cord your buttonhole for a professional finish! l On the front of the buttonhole foot, there are three little projections. Fold 20cm of gimp cord, crochet yarn or topstitching thread in half and place the loop over the central projection at the front of the foot. l Feed the two parallel thread tails under the foot to the back of the machine. Hold the cord taut whilst working the buttonhole sequence. The cord will be covered by the buttonhole stitches. l When you have finished, pull the tails of cord until there is no loop at the other end, then trim.

Four-step buttonhole Attach the buttonhole foot and dial through the four stages of the buttonhole. When you’ve finished one, it’s important to click the dial off and on again before continuing – otherwise the machine won’t know that you’re about to start a new buttonhole!

For more dressmaking advice, be sure to pick up May Martin’s Sewing Bible: 40 Years of Tips and Tricks, £25, harpercollins.co.uk 29

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Find out more at sewmag.co.uk/ sew-saturday

Where will you be on Saturday 21st October?

T

he countdown to Sew Saturday is well and truly on, with sewing shops all over the country putting their plans in place for the most exciting sewing event of the year on Saturday 21st October. On the day, the nation’s bricks and mortar shops will come together to host their own in-store festivities, celebrating our love for sewing and all that our local haberdashers have to offer. Use our online map to find your nearest participating store, then pop along and take part in the fun – it’s going to be a day to remember!

Enjoy a warm welcome at READY THREADY SEW

Thank you to the THE ROYAL SCHOOL OF NEEDLEWORK

“We took part in last year’s Sew Saturday campaign and after a fantastic day, we’re holding another event on 21st October to help build our little community hub for anyone and everyone interested in sewing! Our shop has various natter and stitch groups; some who attend are dealing with bereavement or personal issues, whilst others just want someone to talk to while practising their hobby. We’re taking part to make people aware we are there – not only as a small local business, but also as an arm of support to the community. On the day, we’ll be offering classes for beginners, as well as those who are more advanced.

We are trying to keep these skills going to show people that sewing is both fun and leaves you with a great sense of pride at having made something.”

NEWSFLASH! The heritage centre of excellence for the art of hand embroidery, the Royal School of Needlework, has pledged its support as ambassadors of Sew Saturday! “It is wonderful that this annual event brings folks together and encourages more people to stitch,” Dr Susan Kay-Williams, Chief Executive of the Royal School of Needlework, tells Sew. “Hand embroidery appeals to people for so many different reasons. Some learn to enhance their skills for their career, whilst for others it’s a therapeutic hobby. Whatever the reason and whatever the craft, it is fantastic to see more people and new generations coming together to share their passion through Sew Saturday.

You never know where a needle and thread might take you!”

Find Ready Thready Sew at: 64 Saville Street, North Shields, NE30 1AZ 0191 258 2380, readythreadysew.co.uk

Bring your machine to WEST END SEWING CENTRE For those of you in Cheltenham, our friends at West End Sewing Centre are going to be running a sewing machine clinic on the day. If you need friendly advice or have a problem with your sewing machine, the team there will have expert technicians on hand to help, offering invaluable guidance. Whether it’s a little fix or a bigger problem requiring additional work, you’re in good hands!

Find West End Sewing Centre at: 11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham, GL50 4AA 01242 244025, westendsewing.co.uk 30

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Find out more about the Royal School of Needlework at www.royal-needlework.org.uk

Try workshops at NEWARK CRAFT HUB “Newark Craft Hub is a sewing and craft centre where you can find both Crafty Betty and The Fabric Daisy busily working away on their sewing machines in our shops! We are joining this year’s Sew Saturday by holding workshops throughout the day to make this year’s mascot and other dachshund themed items.

We will have demos, discounts and special offers for you all, plus how-tos from the Crochet, Knit and Natter ladies too. Workshops are just £5, or you can book a premier ticket for £12 for two workshops, a glass of fizz and a goodie bag!” To book now, visit craftybetty.co.uk/sew-saturday-2 Find Newark Craft Hub at: London Road Car Park, Newark on Trent, Nottinghamshire, NG24 1TN newarkcrafthub.co.uk or craftybetty.co.uk

Test drive machines at DIRECT SEWING MACHINES LTD

BIG PRIZES TO WIN!

“Sew Saturday at Direct Sewing Machines will involve a free-to-enter prize draw – the fourth prize is fat quarters and haberdashery, third is a pattern master ruler and three patterns, second prize is two tickets to an ICHF show, and the first is a Janome 217-S! Jane from Janome will be doing make ‘n’ take projects… drop in between either 10am–1pm or 2pm–4pm to join her – no pre-booking required. We’ll also have Janome goodie bags up for grabs and in-store discounts. Whether you are new to sewing, looking to upgrade or want to join the make ‘n’ takes, come and have a play on the machine you’re interested in!

We will have sewing machines and overlockers on demonstration, suitable for beginners up to advanced, with no obligation at all to buy.

We’ll also have computerised embroidery machines set up, ready for you to have a try or for us to show you the ropes! Anyone is welcome to just come in and meet our friendly team.”

Get social at THE SEWING CAFE “This will be our third Sew Saturday!

We love being able to celebrate all that is great about sewing with our customers and more importantly – be social with it! As usual, we’re planning a fun-filled day with mini workshops, a special offer or two and most certainly some cake.

We’ll always support Sew Saturday, it’s so great to have a day celebrating all of the passionate sewing and fabric shopkeepers up and down the country, helping to keep everyone sewing. What’s better than sharing the stitchy love?” – Becky and Fay Find The Sewing Cafe at: 116 Castle Street, Hinckley, Leicestershire, LE10 1DD 01455 698034, thesewingcafe.co.uk

Find Direct Sewing Machines Ltd at 46 Sandy Park Road, Bristol, BS4 3PF 0117 977 8216, direct-sewingmachines.co.uk

Make a mascot at ALL FABRICS “At All Fabrics, the little ones from the kids’ sewing class have already made a start on their Daisy Dachshunds, and are making their own at home for a special competition on the day. Make sure you pop along and join the festivities!

Find All Fabrics at: 61 Grosvenor Street, Stalybridge, SK15 2JN 0161 478 8236, all-fabrics.co.uk

NOMINATE YOUR FAVE!

After Saturday 21st October, tell us about a special event you attended by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk to help the store get the recognition they deserve.

Is your local taking part?

You can easily see if your local sewing shop is taking part with our handy interactive map! All you have to do is enter your postcode to bring up a list of your nearest Sew Saturday shops. Visit sewmag.co.uk/local-sewing-shops

Turn to page 79 to view our directory of participating Sew Saturday stores!

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KS FR O M I

ND

EP

EN

NDIE pattern news

SIZ

TO

IC PP

6 ES

-2 0

DE NT

D E SI G N E R S

Popover poncho

by April Rhodes

SIZES 4 -2

Jazzing up the humble throw-over with the features of your favourite hoody, this garment will quickly become a go-to on chillier days. The cowl neck will keep you both cosy and stylish, whilst the front pocket is a functional addition we can’t get enough of. It’s a really easy project and will look gorgeous in wool or fleece. £11.70 (PDF), april-rhodes.com

6

Difficulty:

ZE SI

S 8-18

Aomori twist top

by Papercut

Difficulty: This stalwart top will see you through the festive season’s flurry of outfit changes, looking equally glam with skinny jeans or over a slinky slip.

You can choose either full-length or no sleeves, whilst the relaxed fit contrasts well with the centre-front ‘knot’ – spoil yourself with drapey silk fabrics to make the most of this gorgeous piece. £14.90, backstitch.co.uk 32

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sew DRESSMAKING

Stella cardigan by 1 Puddle Lane Difficulty: Who doesn’t love a good cardi? This loose-fitting waterfall version will be a great companion as the weather changes, as it can be made as a bodywarmer or with sleeves, and has three different length options too. If you have experience working with knit fabrics, this pattern should be a breeze. £7.41, 1puddlelane.com.au

pattern

pick

S4 ZE SI

-22

This will look fab worn with tights for chillier weather!

The sew team

V-neck shift dress

by The Maker’s Atelier Difficulty: Hot off the press, this savvy shift features lovely parallel sleeves with a deep cuff that can easily be lengthened and stitched up in practically any light to medium-weight fabric. The flattering silhouette is well balanced by a mid V-neckline and inverted pleat at the centre front. As a bonus, there are no other tricky shaping or fastenings to contend with. £22.50, themakersatelier.com

Mirambell skirt

by Pauline Alice

Difficulty: We love the romantic, retro feel of this high-waisted skirt. Knife pleats hug the hips before falling into a full hem, which is super flattering, whilst the shaped waistband and pockets make for quirky detailling. There are two length options as well as the choice of an invisible back zipper or front button closure. We’ll be making this in a lightweight wool ASAP! £13.50, backstitch.co.uk

Landgate jacket

by Merchant & Mills Difficulty:

ES

20

-18

SIZ

S6

SI Z

6-

E

This unisex hooded pullover is quintissentially British – the design is fuss-free and functional, with side and front pocket options and (of course) a hood. It’s far from boring though, as the drawstring waist and raglan sleeves are both practical and add interest. The range of suitable fabrics also make this a great piece; it’s wellsuited to everything from cotton canvas and wool to oilskin and denim. £13, merchantandmills.com

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SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 09:19 Page 34

sew DRESSMAKING

Lauren Guthrie

H

“To make a coat extra warm and cosy, always look out for a high wool content in the fabric.”

ere at Guthrie & Ghani HQ we’re always thinking several months ahead – so despite Christmas still being a little while away, we’ve been feeling merry here for a while. In the run-up to the festive period, we always have lots of different workshops, from needle-felting and making ceramic decorations to free motion embroidery and calligraphy. Of course, the workshop calendar wouldn’t be complete without some fabric-related projects too! This year, as well as the ever-popular advent calendar class, we also have a winter garland workshop, and one to make a children’s Christmas storybook that uses a really lovely panel of fabric, printed with pages of a story.

I always have the good intentions of getting started early on my Christmas present making list. In reality though, running the business – and life in general – usually gets in the way and I end up doing things last minute. My aim this year is to be more realistic and choose a few handmade gifts that I know I’ll be able to fit in, especially if I get started early. I became an auntie to my first nephew this year and, as I made his big sister a quilt for her first Christmas, I plan on doing the same for him too.

We recently had some lovely new metal teeth zips come into the shop with different coloured tapes including a gorgeous rose gold one! They will be great for making nice make up bags or handbag pouches for gifts. I reckon if I make quite a few at the same time and set up a mini production line, I’ll be able to get through them quicker.

I can’t wait to dress my daughter Sophia up in some really cute festive clothes either. We have had this gorgeous lightweight sweatshirting fabric come into the shop, which has the cutest polar bears in a wintery scene. I think it would look great as a cosy romper suit or even just as a simple long-sleeved top. I might have to make both for her – luckily we have three different colours! One of my go to-pattern companies for cute baby clothes is Brindille & Twigg, where there is lots of choice.

If you are planning on sewing for yourself at all, it’s worth investing in a new winter coat.

I made a lovely one last year using the Clare pattern

What Lauren’s ❤ loving ❤

EDGY TEE PDF PATTERN, FROM £5.80, BRINDILLETWIG.COM

“A skirt I recently ma neat topstitching is de! For me, one of the most satisfying things to sew.”

by Closet Case, and I’m so pleased it will see me through this winter as well. If you’d like your coat to be extra warm and cosy, the key is to look at the wool content of your fabric. Even if a material feels thinner than others, it will still be really warm if it has a high wool content. I like to aim for 70-80% wool myself, or 100% if I can.

Of course, a higher natural fibre content is likely to be more expensive but I honestly think it’s worth the investment. If you fall in love with a fabric that doesn’t have that much wool in it, you could consider adding a layer of interlining for extra warmth. This layer of insulating fabric goes between your main outer fabric and lining one. I find it’s easiest if you tack it to your main fabric pieces so they become one, then continue to construct your coat. Whatever you decide to make this month, I hope you enjoy some quality sewing time!

Lauren Lauren’s TOP TIPS for getting organised Be realistic about what you can make in the time you have. This will help keep you motivated!

Book sewing time into your diary or better still, arrange to do it with a friend!

I find that always makes it easier to stick to the plan when there's lots to make.

CLARE COAT BY CLOSET CASE, £14.90, GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK

To keep your sewing area tidy, give each item a specific place and always be sure to put it back.

FIND FABRIC, PATTERNS, HABERDASHERY AND MORE AT GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK 35

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get your

Glitz on!

MAKE A GRAND ENTRANCE AT THE CHRISTMAS PARTY, WEARING A FAB OUTFIT YOU'VE SEWN YOURSELF

Dark powder with gold glitter pleats fabric, £5.50 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

“If you sew for parties, you'll never turn up in the same dress as someone else!”

Tilly and the Buttons' Etta dress

The festive season provides the perfect opportunity to treat ourselves to a brand new outfit, particularly when there’s a family gathering or office party to look forward to. Keen stitchers don’t have to be limited by what’s available on the high street either – why spend hours scouring the shops much like everyone else before settling on something ‘that will do, I suppose’, when you can sew 36

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your ideal dress instead? Katie Matthews, office assistant at South London sewing store Tilly and the Buttons, agrees. “Stitching for yourself allows you to make something that’s perfect, right down to the tiniest detail, which always makes an outfit more special,” she tells Sew. “Also, if you are making something for a party or another specific event, you’ll never run the risk of turning up in the same dress as someone else!”

sew DRESSMAKING

New Look 6824 allows you to mix and match the pattern pieces, to create a variety of elegant party dresses

Santa Clara floral sequin tulle, £20.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Floral woven metallic brocade, £8.99 per metre, minerva crafts.com

Plan ahead

One of the pitfalls of sewing your own party outfit however, is that you can potentially run out of time, particularly if making several festive projects at once. “As this can be a particularly stressful time of the year, I would suggest starting on your outfit about a month before the event, or maybe even earlier!” Katie advises.

“It means your sewing won’t feel too under pressure, plus you can splash out on some fancy fabric without worrying that it will eat into your gift budget too much.”

While clothes maketh the woman, the right fabric can make the garment – and Christmas is

the perfect excuse to treat yourself to something luxurious, preferably in bright or jewel shades, or with a metallic shimmer to really ring the changes in your wardrobe.

“I’m currently mad for sequins, which obviously provide glitz in abundance, as well as brocade – which comes in a wonderful array of colours and textures, and has even more pizazz when made with metallic thread,” Katie continues. “Brocade is much more forgiving than sequinned fabric to sew, but it can fray like nobody’s business, so I would suggest overlocking the edges or using fray check.”

Perfect pattern

If you’re not sure which fabric to choose, try selecting your pattern first, as this will suggest various material types that will work well for your completed garment. This is another fun part of sewing your own outfit of course, as there are so many pattern houses offering elegant designs that only need the right material to come to life!

“The two dress patterns that I’ll be considering for my next party outfit are the Etta and Zadie designs from the range available at Tilly and the Buttons,” Katie reveals. “They are both quite different, but perfect for festive events in their own way!

Zadie would make a wonderful dress for Christmas as it’s stylish and chic, but also comfortable, being made from stretch knit fabric – so you get the best of both worlds.”

“If you’re looking for a more elegant outfit, Etta is your pattern of choice. This fitted wiggle dress is a total knockout and when made in a gorgeous luxury fabric, will help you start the festive season – or the new year – with a bang!”

Pick up a pattern

Simplicity and New Look patterns, simplicitynewlook.com, Tilly and the Buttons patterns, tillyandthebuttons.com

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If you're not keen on dresses, New Look 6558 includes a smart pair of trousers

katie's party outfit planner

1

When picking a pattern, think about the type of event you're going to from every angle. Will you be sitting, standing, dancing, eating? You want an outfit that will make you feel great but also work for the whole event.

2

When sewing your outfit, remember that old favourite: measure twice and cut once! It's a rule I live by with all my projects, but especially so when sewing with an expensive fabric.

3

If you want to be really kitsch, why not sew a coordinating tie for your partner from your leftover fabric, to wear at the event? These also make great stocking fillers!

Stitch up and wear the

Get started

• Medium-weight cotton, 1.3m x 1.5m

Sizes 8-16

MALLORY TOP Using only three pattern pieces with no need for fastenings or closures like zips or buttons, this easy top by Amanda Walker can easily be completed within an evening. It features a stylish boatneck along with wide turned-up sleeve cuffs to match, whilst the slightly cropped style is perfect for pairing with trousers, skirts, and even high-waisted styles.

Cutting guide

Front and back: cut one of each on the fold Collar: cut one, adding a 1.5cm seam allowance as indicated on the pattern 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

stitch a TOP

TILING YOUR PATTERN Online digital patterns start by indicating a layout of how to arrange the A4 pieces of paper to assemble each pattern piece. In this instance, the pattern has eight A4 sheets to piece together. This might sound daunting, but ‘tiling’ a pattern is actually easier than you might think – and the majority of pattern houses offer their designs in this format.

1

6

2

7

Visit sewmag.co.uk/ templates to download and print the pattern. Assemble the pattern from the A4 sheets as indicated (see Tiling Your Pattern, left), then use it to cut out the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide.

Neaten the edges of the shoulders, top sleeves and side seams with an overlocker or zigzag stitch.

Pin the front and back tops right sides together (at top and base). Sew along the upper section of the sleeve, starting at the cuff, and across the shoulder seam. Press the seam open. Repeat for the second side.

1

Measure the test square to check that it is 10cm x 10cm; if it is, this means the pattern has printed correctly to the right size (don’t ever tick the ‘Fit to Page’ box when printing).

2

The dashed lines indicate the edge of the page that the pattern is tiled on.

Cut around the dashed lines on each page, then around the edge of the pattern.

3

With right sides together, align the top and lower section of the sleeve, then pin. Sew the underarm seam, starting at the cuff. Continue under the arm and down the side seam to the hemline. Press the seam open, and repeat for the second side.

4 5

Clip around the curved edges of the neckline on the front and back of the top.

Match the centre-back neck point on the top to the centre-back notch on the collar. With right sides together, pin the collar to the neck and stitch in place.

Fold 1.5cm of the collar to the wrong side around the outer edge and press. Fold the collar in half along the length and match the pressed edge to the stitched one around the inside of the neck. Edge stitch by machine or slip stitch in place, sandwiching the raw edges of the neck inside the collar. Fold in half to the right side and press.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

Fold 1cm along the base of the front and back top to the wrong side and press.

Press under a further 3cm and pin. Edge stitch to secure in place.

3

Cut out all of the sections needed for each pattern piece as indicated in the initial plan, then arrange them in the correct order.

4

Match the pattern pieces edge-to-edge and use sticky tape to join them so that there are no gaps. Repeat the process for the other pattern pieces.

To hem the sleeves, fold and press 1cm to the wrong side around the base then a further 6cm, and pin in place.

Edge stitch by machine to secure, forming a deep hem so the sleeves can be turned back into cuffs. Turn 4cm of the finished cuff to the right side and press in place. Repeat for the other sleeve. Sew the two angled ends of the collar together to form a circle.

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CLASSIC COTTON This classic herringbone cotton is medium-weight and perfect for our top. Also available in red, blue, brick and more. £15 per metre, raystitch.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

P

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

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SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 09:19 Page 40

YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Making darts 3 Inserting zips 3 Attaching facings 3 Adding seam binding

sew DRESSMAKING

sew masterclass

sew

Smarten your look with a

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

CONNIE SKIRT Using just two main pattern pieces to make the skirt front and back with facings secured inside the waist, this easy skirt by Fiona Hesford – made from a warmer upholstery fabric – is a good choice for the chillier weather.

The comfortable and flattering style sits roughly 3cm below the natural waistline and features an exposed metal zip at the front opening, giving it a contemporary edge.

Get started

• Upholstery fabric, 80cm (140cm wide) Note: if using 115cm wide fabric, you will need 1.3m • Lightweight fusible interfacing, 20cm • Metal zip with ring pull, 18cm

Sizes

Waist (cm)

Hips (cm)

6

62.5

86.5

8

65

89

10

70

94

12

75

99

14

80

104

16

85

109

Finished length: approx. 49cm

Cutting guide

Front: cut two Back: cut one on the fold Front waist facing: cut two Back waist facing: cut one on the fold Note: iron interfacing to the reverse of both waist facing pieces 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

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sew a WINTER SKIRT Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING l Go to sewmag.co.uk/ templates to download and print the pattern, then transfer the markings (darts and zip) as indicated. l You will need a zipper foot attachment for your machine and one 18cm metal zip with a ring pull – I got mine from Armory Auctions on eBay. l Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or using an overlocker. l Staystitching is a line of straight stitching worked 1cm from the edge, which prevents stretching at the curved edges. l Understitching is when you sew a line of stitching close (roughly 3mm) from the seam on the right side to secure the seam allowance, preventing it from rolling to the front. l When hand-stitching the overhanging parts of the facings, make sure that the zip is still able to open. l You can hem the skirt as you please, but using seam binding will reduce bulk and help maintain the maximum length.

Tuck these overhang sections to the inside and stitch by hand so the zip can open (see step 9)

Making the darts and inserting the zip

1

2

3

4

Sew around the zip as closely to the edge as possible. Press, then remove the tacking stitches.

5

6

8

9

Fold the fabric (skirt back) to match up the marks at the top of the darts, then sew to the point (make two darts). Press to the centre. Staystitch the top edge of all the main skirt pieces (see tips, left).

Finish all raw edges before you sew. Sew the front pieces together at the centre-front seam up to the zip marker point (transferred). Reinforce the seam at the zip end. Press the seam open.

The teeth and ring should both be exposed on the right side. Tack, then attach a zipper foot to your machine.

Press over an extra 4mm on the seam allowance at the zip section to accommodate the exposed teeth. Pin the zip on the wrong side of the front pieces so it’s neat on the right side.

With right sides together, sew the skirt front to the back at the sides. Once joined, press the seam open.

Sewing the facings

7

Sew each back-waist facing piece to one short edge of the front waist facing piece. Press the seams open, then finish the outer raw edge all around.

Pin the facings to the skirt at the top raw edge, leaving a 1.5cm overhang at each end.

Tack, then stitch. Press the facing up, with the seam allowance pressed up to the facing.

Hemming the skirt

Make a 2cm hem as required at the lower edge or use seam binding to hem your skirt as shown below.

To attach seam binding to the edge of the fabric, unfold one binding edge and pin it to the right side of the fabric at the raw edge. Sew with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the binding and seam allowance upwards on the reverse. Fold the binding over to the reverse to encase the raw edges. Pin [i], then stitch in the ditch on the right side, making sure the binding is [i] secured on the reverse [ii]. Press.

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Understitch on the facing side (see tips, left), then press the facing to the reverse of the skirt. Tuck the overhang under at the far ends, then hand stitch in place.

sewmag.co.uk

[ii]

sew DRESSMAKING

Sewing upholstery fabric Our skirt used a heavyweight tapestry fabric, most commonly used in lightweight upholstery projects but still wellsuited to creating warm and robust clothing. l As a general rule, the heavier your fabric, the larger the needle size you’ll need – otherwise, you run the risk of your needle breaking. Depending on the weight of your fabric, either size 16, 18 or 20 sharp needles will likely be the best option. l Practise with a scrap of fabric first to determine whether you can stitch comfortably, experimenting with a longer stitch length if necessary. Thicker fabrics can also benefit from a walking foot attachment, which can be needed when stitching multiple layers. l Your fasteners and closures should be sturdier than usual to match the weight of your fabric, so bear this in mind when seeking out a suitable zip and any other embellishments. l If struggling to pin multiple layers together, try using fabric clips or pegs instead.

FREE £10 voucher* when you spend £50.

Use the code SEWFREE10

sew

SHOPPER

************************

************************ thank you for shopping!

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* Valid until 19.10.2017. One code per order/customer, cannot be applied on sewing machines or gift vouchers. Value: £10. Minimum order value: £50.

GO GEOMETRIC! This Tapestry Arthur Game fabric from My Fabrics is perfect for creating a winter skirt. £23.95 per meter, myfabrics.co.uk

sewing

SoS

Our experts advise on creating the perfect party outfit!

Q

Sparkle - All Saints, £10.95 per metre

I’d like to sew a GLITZY EVENING dress but without going down the full sequin route – what fabrics should I look out for?

Elena Moss

Caroline says...

There are so many choices – a garment can look very elegant if sequins are used for detailing on the sleeves or a panel, rather than all over. Look out for fabrics that only have a small coverage as these look very classy in a simple dress or top. If sequins are a definite no, then polyester knitted velvet is a great option for evening wear because it stretches for great comfort and drapes well.

Alternatively, try a good quality black cotton velvet with a Lycra content, which provides more structure and is perfect for jackets and more fitted garments.

Satin comes in many forms and provides a more subtle touch of glitz, either alone or when combined with sequinned or velvet fabrics. A good quality satin-backed crepe will give you relaxed glamour as it drapes beautifully, while a duchess satin provides a look that is more structured. And of course there’s lace, which looks great layered on top of a contrasting fabric. All of these are available at croftmill.co.uk – happy sewing!

Aqua corded lace, £13 per metre

Soft dusky pink satin backed crepe, £10.50 per metre

All fabrics available at croftmill.co.uk

Q

What are this year’s FESTIVE trends, and what patterns do you recommend?

Ann Dawson

Kate says...

A good party dress never really goes out of style, whatever the current trends may be! There are a couple of fantastic pattern companies that spring to mind for this.

By Hand London, which specialises in party wear designs, has a fantastic range of dresses and you are sure to find one that you like. I particularly recommend the Elisalex or Alix patterns, which can be smart or casual depending on how you make them up.

I’d also look at Sew Over It, as they too have some lovely patterns with a slight vintage nod that would work well, such as the Betty dress – which really suits a special occasion when made with a V-neckline and omitting the sleeves. The most important consideration is your choice of fabric, as this will change your design from day dress to P-A-R-T-Y in an instant. Velvet seems to be in again this winter and adds a luxurious feel to any outfit. Jacquard is also fantastic for creating more structured garments, and you can’t go wrong with sequin fabrics either!

Elisalex dress pattern, £9.50 (PDF) byhandlondon.com 44

sewmag.co.uk Sew SOS 103.indd 44

08/09/2017 14:11

here to

help

KATE UNDERDOWN

CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID,

The co-founder of online community The Fold Line, which offers a wealth of sewing knowledge, technique how-tos, and inspiration.

Managing director of Croft Mill, a family-run business in Lancashire offering a wide range of fabrics from local and international brands. croftmill.co.uk

thefoldline.com

Q

I’d like to make a smart outfit for my office do, but an evening gown is a bit beyond me – can you suggest something THAT’S a little easier?

Janice Weber

Lisa says...

Christmas parties are the perfect opportunity to get sewing and make something truly special. But if the thought of stitching a full-on evening gown is slightly terrifying, there are much easier options out there.

My go-to pattern for posh parties is Sew Over It’s Elsie dress, which has a flattering fitted bodice and dazzling full skirt. I wear versions of this on a day-to-day basis, but the key to dressing it up for parties always lies in the fabric. Choose a special cloth such as brocade, silk taffeta, dupion or damask, and it will do all the talking for you. Luckily, these fabrics are stable wovens that aren’t tricky to stitch.

Concentrate on achieving a beautiful fit and take your sewing slowly – you’ll be Christmas party ready in no time!

LISA COMFORT

Owner of London store, Sew Over It, whose mission is to teach as many people as possible how to sew, either in store or online.

top 4

sewoverit.co.uk

Delicate Laundry Detergents

Many party outfits are sewn from silk and other delicate fabrics that require a lot of TLC, particularly when they need to be laundered.

Sometimes it’s safer to dry clean them, but you may get away with running them through your washing machine, provided you use a delicate or hand wash cycle, cold water and a mild detergent. Here’s a selection of the gentlest products...

Classic cleaner Woolite detergent, £3.50 for 750ml, wilko.com

Eco-friendly option Ecover delicate laundry liquid, £3.49 for 750ml, ecoverdirect.com

tip!

Elsie dress pattern, £8.50 (PDF), £14.50 (Printed) sewoverit.co.uk

Keep a scissor sharpener to hand when cutting sequin fabrics, as these can dull your blades.

Sweet scent

Lavender wool wash detergent, £4.99 for one litre, lakeland. co.uk

Name brand Persil Silk & Wool washing liquid, £3.75 for 750ml, find stockists at persil.com

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08/09/2017 14:12

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E e c N n e I d fi n H o c C h t i A w w e M S

e v o Lour y

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This model suits beginners and experienced sewists SUITS ALL alike, with 24 built-in stitches, including an STICHERS auto one-step buttonhole, variable stitch width and length, automatic needle threader, and a jam-proof dropin bobbin. There’s also a drop feed for freehand embroidery, plus a free arm for circular sewing.

Price: £289 SAVE £40, NOW £249

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BRAND NEW!

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KEY FEATURES: 3 30 built-in stitches 3 Twin needle facility 3 Auto declutch bobbin winder 3 Auto lock stitch 3 Snap on feet INTRODUCTORY PRICE: £299, janome.co.uk, 0161 666 6011.

SHOP

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3 Wide range of sewing machines 3 Huge selection of fabrics, patterns and haberdashery 3 Knowledgable and friendly customer service 3 S ewing machine classes Visit Sewing & Craft Superstore, 292-312 Balham High Road, London, SW17 7AA. Alternatively, log on to craftysewer.com or call 0208 767 0036.

h s a t s y m ret... sec

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SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 09:27 Page 50

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sew DRESSMAKING

Stitch the Look

SMOOTH SCUBA

WHY NOT TRY

Scuba is a medium-weight double knit fabric that is stretchy and has a good amount of structure, giving body and shape to garments like tops, dresses and skirts. The smooth fabric almost feels foamy and sponge-like, and is more stable than most jersey and knit fabrics – making it easy to handle and sew, especially because it doesn’t fray. It’s worth avoiding dressmaking patterns with lots of seams, as this will add bulk.

1

2

3

4 Lorraine Kelly oriental print dress, £55,

“Here at Fashion Enter, where FC: Fabric Studio is based, we love scuba!

It’s easy to cut, sew, and doesn’t lose shape. The wearable fabric is flattering and well-suited to bodycon styles; it’s become a staple here at our ethical factory and is so affordable too. We love to work with scuba and we hope you do too!”

jdwilliams.co.uk

5 1 Sophia, £5.50 per metre 2 Rosie-lee, £5 per metre 3 Sasha, £5.50 per metre 4 Grey and pink floral, £5 per metre 5 Frankie, £6 per metre All of the featured scuba fabrics are available at fcfabricstudio.com

Jenny Holloway, CEO at Fashion Enter

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YOUR 4 BONUS PATTERN DOWNLOADS Prepare for the cooler months with our selection of FREE coats and cover-up patterns

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1

Raglan sleeved coat Sew a classic coat with our step-by-step instructions.

2

Mum & daughter raincoats

Make a waterproof jacket for yourself or a youngster for the rainy days.

SAVE THE PATTERN PDF

4

...by right clicking to save it to your computer, then print out (DON’ T fit to page!)

PRINT OUT & KEEP

Issue 100 Aug issue 2017 Issue 103 Christmas 2017

JUST PRINT OUT THE PAGE OR PAGES YOU NEED FROM YOUR PRINT MENU In your print menu, under Size options, be sure to select to print ‘Actual Size’, instead of ‘Fit to Page’

You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our back issues at sewmag.co.uk/templates Designer: Amanda Walker Magazine page: 18 Total 23 pages to print

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EL PAN ACK T&B side FRON oth FOR on b PLEAT otch uter n een o r betw Gathe

BACK FACING Cut one pair

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centre front

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FRONT FACING fold Cut one on

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FRONT PANEL Cut one on fold SIDE PANEL Cut two on fold BACK PANEL Cut one pair

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Cut one pair for back panels

BACK BODICE Cut one pair

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NEED EXTRA HELP? Cut on fold for centre front panel and side panels

FRONT BODICE Cut one on fold

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Lorem ipsum

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WAISTBAND Cut one only

© ACEVILLE PUBLICATIONS LTD | WWW.SEWMAG.CO.UK

All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

Visit sewmag.co.uk/blog

3

Winter wrap Transform two metres of wool fabric into a simple yet stunning shawl.

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4

Cape coat in two styles

Choose from two stylish cover-ups – or why not sew them both?

sew DRESSMAKING

learn with...

YUKO TAKADA

sew

PAULA BLOUSE This easy top is great for newbies to knit fabrics, featuring a loose shape with long sleeves and facings. The garment allows beginners to sew seams with an overlock or zigzag stitch, and also features epaulettes – small, short straps – to embellish the shoulders. To create a version without these, simply miss step 3. Add buttons to these for a final decorative touch!

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

stitch a TOP Get started

• Striped knit fabric, 1.1m (160cm wide) • Fusible interfacing, 20cm x 90cm • Buttons, two 1.5cm

get the

book

Sizes

XS-L Note: see online template for sizes

Cutting guide

OUTER FABRIC Back: cut one on the fold Front: cut one on the fold Back facing: cut one on the fold Front facing: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut two Epaulette: cut four INTERFACING Back facing: cut one on the fold Front facing: cut one on the fold Epaulette: cut four 1cm seam allowance used unless stated otherwise.

1 2

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Cut out all the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Fuse interfacing to the facings and epaulette pieces.

Sew the front and back facings at the shoulders using an overlocker or zigzag stitch.

Press the seams towards the back on the main front and back pieces. For the facing, press the seams towards the front. Overlock or zigzag stitch around the outer edge of the facing.

Pin the front and back, right sides together, then sew. Turn the garment right sides out and stitch the facing to the top at the outer edge.

Match two epaulette pieces right sides together and sew around, leaving the short

3

Find more garments like this to make in She Wears The Pants by Yuko Takada,Tuttle Publishing, £13.99, amazon.co.uk straight end open. Turn right sides out and make a buttonhole at the rounded end. Make the second epaulette, then tack them onto the shoulders.

With right sides together, sew the sides of the garment, overlocking or zigzagging through both layers, then press the seam towards the back. Neaten around the hem and fold it up to the desired length. Make two rows of stitching to secure. Repeat for each sleeve cuff.

Attach the sleeves to the garment, overlocking or zigzagging through both layers.

Sew buttons to the shoulders to complete, lining them up with the buttonholes on the epaulettes.

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SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 14:26 Page 54

Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.

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sew PEOPLE Iron-on Stripe Sequin Trim Rose Gold 15mm, £3.50 per metre, and Iron-on Chevron Sequin Trim Rose Gold 15mm, £4.80 per metre, abakhan.co.uk

You can find a range of sequin fabrics at aliexpress.com

Metallic stripe cotton cushion, £29, cultfurniture.com

Retro copper patterned roller blinds from £59.89, englishblinds.co.uk

At home with...

STUART HILLARD

Rose gold and white wall clock, £15, jdwilliams.co.uk

This month, I’ve discovered how all that glitters is (rose) gold!

As we head further into the chilly seasons, I have to fight the urge to cosy down and hibernate on a daily basis. I love this season, but my natural

inclination during these months is to hunker down, and so my pace wants to slow to a virtual standstill. And if only I could! This sounds great in theory, but the reality of being self-employed means that there simply can't be slow periods – hibernation is not an option and the pace has to be maintained. Selfdiscipline is a must. I’m often asked how I manage to make a living as a crafter and the secret, for me, lies in diversity.

We now have a family farm, and some years ago the farming community cottoned on to diversification… literally, the concept of not having all of your (free-range) eggs in one (handmade) basket! As much as my husband’s family had been raised to farm, they knew that farming alone wouldn’t put food on the table, so they capitalised on their proximity to a city with good networks and branched out into haulage, too.

This notion of having several feathers in one's cap also happens to be the way with crafts…

THE CRAFTY DREAM It’s many makers' dream to quit the rat race and leave their nine-to-five jobs so

that they can spend their days making beautiful things that others will admire and buy. Friends and family are always saying how lovely the things we make are and that they would buy them, so what’s stopping us? The reality is that our friends and family can only buy so many lovely things, and once we are faced with charging hourly rates for our time, our makes become out of reach for many people. As much as I love to sew and make, far more of my time is spent designing, creating kits, teaching others, and writing and presenting on TV than actually selling my wares. It’s the wide range of things I do that adds up to a whole career – none could sustain me on their own, neither financially nor creatively. I will still be getting cosy through the winter, don’t get me wrong, but I’ll spend my days designing, making and writing – with hot drinks on tap, of course!

ALL THAT GLITTERS One of my favourite interior trends for the cooler, cosy season is rose gold. Every season has its own metallic hue and right now, that gold finger needs to be tinged with a rosy glow! Adding metallics to an existing room scheme is super easy and all about the accents… think clocks, frames, candlesticks and bowls, or keep your eyes peeled in the shops where I am sure you will see a plethora of cushions, throws and pillows. All of them are sure to bring warmth and sparkle to those dark winter nights. I love some of the rose gold sequin fabrics I have seen recently, which are perfect for making accessories. You can find

Rectangular rose gold basket, £10, sainsburyshome.co.uk tips for sewing sequinned fabrics on pages 10, 25 and 44! For those who don’t quite fancy going full on sequin however, there are some fabulous trims available. I am loving the iron-on rose gold sequin trims from Abakhan. They are easy to apply and a great way to add sparkle to interiors, clothes and bags in a jiffy. If you haven't seen it yet, I've released my first fabric range and I've been busy using it to make so many projects like the hexagon quilt (below), a sewing machine cover and tool tidy, then a quick and easy tote bag made from charm squares. It might sound like a small thing, but seeing my name on the selvedges of a piece of fabric sends a little shiver up my spine!

Till next month!

Stuart x

What do you all think of my Bumble Bee fabrics?

You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 674 or visit stuarthillard.com 55

sewmag.co.uk Stuart Hillard 103.indd 2

08/09/2017 14:25

Make your home a

Scandi wonderland with

1

HOUR

festive makes Designer: Cheryl Owen

The red and white Scandi theme gives a contemporary festive burst and is well-suited to most interiors for a temporary Christmas revamp.

Here, you’ll find a number of speedy projects that will help transform your home into a grotto in just one afternoon – even Santa would be impressed, and he’s a speedy guy! These makes will also put any oddments of fabric in your stash to good use, taking them from scrap to showstopper in record time.

Sew a mini stocking Size: 9.5cm x 14.5cm Download and print the stocking template at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Use it to cut one sock shape from patterned fabric and another from red felt. Pin the two together and tack around the edges, leaving the top open.

Trim a scallop shape along one edge of a 5cm x 8cm strip of white felt and glue it to the top edge of the fabric piece.

Starting at the top righthand corner, fold under one end of spotty bias binding

1

2

and tack it around the side of the stocking, folding it in half as you go. Make little pleats in the binding to neatly fit around the instep, toe and heel. Sew all around, then slip stitch the folded edges to the front and back of the stocking.

Trim the binding, leaving an 8cm tail. Sew the seams together to make a hanging loop, then fold the end over the front and stitch it to the stocking. Cut two holly leaves from green felt and three berries from red, then stitch securely over the raw end of the binding.

Get started • Cotton fabrics, plain, patterned • Felt, red, white, green • Iron-on interfacing • Bias binding, spotty • Embroidery thread, black, white • Toy stuffing • Wire clothes hanger • Acid-free glue 5mm seam allowance used, unless otherwise specified

3

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Stitch festive mice Size: 10.5cm x 15cm

1 Designer: Carolyn Letten

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Use them to cut two heads, two bodies and two ears from fabric, then back the ears with interfacing.

Snip 1cm up into the middle of each ear as indicated on the template. Hold both

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sides of this notch and cross over slightly to make the ear 3D. Lay the ears right sides facing up on top of the short end of the body.

Sew in place. Pin the wider end of the head to the short end of the body, right sides together.

Stitch across, then press.

Repeat this for the underside of the mouse.

3

Pin the top and bottom mouse pieces right sides together and stitch a 5mm seam around, inserting a loop of ribbon or twine under the middle of the wide body end for a tail and leaving a gap for turning.

Clip the corners, turn right sides out and stuff. Slip stitch the gap closed.

Embroider two eyes using black thread or sew on two small black buttons. Use white thread to sew through the nose leaving long loops, until you just have enough to fasten off. Cut the loops to create the whiskers.

4

”You could use an old photo frame to create a square wreath, or even a large embroidery hoop to make yours extra crafty!”

Amanda Walker, sew designer

Make a wreath Custom-sized

1

Cut out multiple 2.5cm x 15cm strips of fabric; this wreath uses four different red and white designs. Bend a wire clothes hanger into a circle – you may need to use pliers and a hammer to coax the wire into your desired shape.

When happy with the circle, start tying the strips of fabric around the wire in the same order so that the distribution of prints is even as you move around the ring. Tie the strips tightly to give the wreath a full solid shape.

To make a small fabric sleeve to cover the wire hook of the hanger, cut a strip of fabric and fold the edges in towards the centre, then fold the strip in half again lengthways.

Edge stitch the two folded edges together, then fold and stitch one end. Thread the strip onto the wire hook and the hand stitch the sleeve in place.

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Designer: Amanda Walker 57

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Get started • Cotton lawn, 20cm x 30cm • Fusible interfacing, 6cm x 10cm • Toy stuffing • Felt, small scrap • Embroidery thread • Dry rice (optional)

Size

8cm x 14cm (excl. tail)

Cutting guide Base: cut one Body: cut one pair Tail: cut one pair 5mm seam allowance used throughout.

TURN LIBERTY LEFTOVERS INTO A

kitty pincushion Making the most out of fabric is a habit all stitchers should have, especially when it’s a gorgeous print! Projects that have a simple silhouette, like this cute cat by Chloe Hailwood, are ideal because it’s easy to resize the template to make the most out of your scraps. This pattern is versatile too, as it would work well as a pincushion, bookend or doorstop – just ensure the dimensions and weight suit your needs.

sew

free template download

sew

sewmag.co.uk /templates

SHOPPER

************************

Stitch a cute cat

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut out all the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Fuse interfacing to the base piece. Pin the tails right sides together and stitch, leaving the straight end open. Turn right sides out and stuff lightly.

2

Pin the two body pieces right sides together, then stitch around, leaving the base and bottom 5cm of each side open. Place the tail between

the two body pieces and pin it to the back layer only, lining up the raw edges at the bottom.

3

Pin the base piece on the same side as the tail, matching the point sides of the base with the body side seams.

Repeat with the other curved edge of the base and the body front.

Stitch around the base and 5cm up one side seam, leaving a gap on the other side for turning.

4

the ears and beside the neck.

Turn the cat right sides out through the 5cm gap and push out the ear points. Stuff the shape, adding rice at the bottom if desired.

5

Slip stitch the gap in the side seam closed. Embroider a small stitch on the cat’s face with coordinating thread, leaving a 3cm tail on each side. Repeat this twice to create whiskers, fasten off, then cut a small heart- shaped nose from felt and secure it on top of the stitching.

Trim the seam at the top of the ears, cheeks and body, then clip notches between

BETSY RED The teeny floral print of Liberty’s Betsy Tana Lawn was purrfect for this project!. £22.50 per metre, sewbox.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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08/09/2017 14:02

SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 15:35 Page 59

WE CAN HELP YOUR BUSINESS GROW Advertising doesn’t need to cost a fortune, a small budget used wisely can help your business grow.

Sew's ad team can create a marketing plan dedicated to your specific needs with options such as editorial support, eshots, social media support, advertising and online activity for less than you think.

For more information about our readership, stockists, promotional spend and how we can introduce more customers to you within a carefully planned budget please call Sew magazine 01206 505932 or email hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk

SIMPLY SCANDI-LOUS

AW2017 collection by Copenhagen Print Factory. For stockists visit copenhagenprintfactory.com

100% cotton fabric, 140cm wide, £8.99 per metre, the-stitchery.co.uk

If you’re looking for a clean and contemporary Christmas style, the Nordic trend has your name on it.

Characteristically, you can expect large areas of red and white along with ornaments and sweet decorations of charming reindeer and house silhouettes, plus candy cane prints and the cross-stitched stars seen in Fair Isle designs. The iconic look promises lasting appeal and of course, a good dose of Christmas cheer!

MELISSA HYLAND, SEW DEPUTY EDITOR

SAIRA FODEN, THE-STITCHERY

Reindeer and baubles, Nordic Noel collection, £7.99 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

Scandi Snowflakes in red, Christmas 2017 Scandi 4 collection for Makower UK, £13 per metre, thepatchworkgarden.co.uk

“Featuring sweet Dala horses, teensy nesting birds, and red and white tree silhouettes, this fabric is subtly Scandi without being overtly festive – ideal for neutral interiors.”

“A reindeer and tree print will make your Christmas table Scandi chic! This one is fantastic for a table runner and coordinating napkins, but also for stockings and other craft projects.”

BRENDA HIGGS, HIGGS AND HIGGS

STEPHANIE WILKINSON, PATCHWORK GARDEN

“Combining red and white, natural textures, and simple folk art, classic Scandi style is just made for Christmas! This print is perfect for stylish seasonal home decor projects like table runners and mats.”

“This charming Scandi design is from France! It’s well-suited to modern interiors with its light background and fresh festive design.

Being extra wide at 160cm, it’s especially great for tablecloths.”

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sew home

Add simple silhouettes in varnished woods

Seek out Scandi motifs and lasercut patterns

tch.net

Go all out with the red and white combo

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Susie Johns’ TRY CHEVRON STITCH TO CREATE

FESTIVE HOOP

Get started • White linen or cotton fabric, 25cm square • Embroidery hoop, 20cm diameter • Erasable marker pen • Embroidery thread, DMC Cotton Perle Color Variations #5 shade 4050 • Crewel needle • Sequins • Cord or ribbon

Here, diagonal and straight stitches are combined to create an attractive zigzag pattern that makes a great border when worked in a single row, or an open filling stitch when repeated.

This wall hanging features lines of chevron stitch in variegated thread to form a simple Christmas tree motif, embellished with sequins for added sparkle.

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Size 20cm diameter

Stitch a wall hanging

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Cut out the tree and pot shapes from card, then draw around the triangle for the Christmas tree centrally on your fabric with an erasable pen. Using a ruler, mark lines evenly spaced 5mm apart across the width of the tree, then draw around the potshaped template at the base.

Place the fabric in an embroidery hoop, making sure it is taut but not overstretched. Using a single strand of embroidery thread, stitch between each pair of parallel lines in chevron stitch, following the instructions panel (right).

When the tree shape is completely filled, stitch around the outline of the pot in red thread and split stitch.

Using a finer needle and sewing thread, attach a few round sequins on the tree, plus a star-shaped sequin at the top.

When you have completed the embroidery, trim away any excess fabric at the back of the hoop. Sew a running stitch all around the edge of the remaining material, pull up to gather, then fasten off. Tie a loop of cord or ribbon to the screw for hanging.

2 3

4

colour thread to Use a variegatedand texture add depth

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sew home

Chevron Stitch Work this stitch between two parallel lines; draw guidelines with an erasable marker before you begin.

1

Bring the needle out at A, on the bottom line, insert at B and bring out again at C, halfway between A and B. Keep the working thread below the needle as shown.

2

Insert the needle at D on the top line and take a small stitch to bring it out at E.

3

Insert the needle at F so that D is halfway between E and F. Keep the thread above the needle and bring it out again at D.

4

Insert the needle at G on the bottom line, and bring it out again at H.

“The line spacing can make a huge difference to the appearance of the chevron stitching – practise on a scrap of fabric first to make sure you’re happy with the overall effect.”

Susie Johns, Sew designer

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5

Insert the needle at I and bring it out at G. Continue in the same way to complete the line of stitching.

SEW XMAS 17 ISSUE _SEW 08/09/2017 09:19 Page 64

25% discount for Sew readers

On-line stockists of Liberty fabrics - Including Liberty Tana Lawn, needlecord, jersey and Lantana.

The greatest selection of true vintage sewing patterns, from 1920s flapper dresses, to 1970s jumpsuits.

‘Indie’ dressmaking and crafting patterns Hot Patterns, Colette, Serendipity Studio, Sewaholic, Gather, By Hand, Papercut Christine Haynes, Kwik Sew, and more ...

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Nutcracker musical snow globe, £30, tch.net

the

sew home

FABRIC EDIT The Nutcracker collection by Sarah Jane for Michael Miller offers gorgeous festive fabrics that follow a vintage theme. You’ll find all of the characters from the classic ballet featured alongside elegant baubles, holly motifs and tartan patterns in traditional shades of red, green and gold. Let these inspire your next Christmas sewing project...

Metallic Hunter Green Ornaments

King rat decoration, £9.99, dobbies.com

Metallic White Toy Soldier Metallic Cranberry Mini Overture Tartan stocking, £12, tch.net

Metallic Hunter Green Nutcracker Act 1 Double Border Tartan napkins, £3.29 for 20, talkingtables.co.uk

Biscuiteers Nutcracker collection, £35, biscuiteers.com

Nutcracker in red, £25, marksand spencer.com

Metallic Cranberry Nutcracker Plaid

Metallic Cream Nutcracker Floral Jolie Noel Christmas cake tin, £8.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

Embroidered nutcracker cushion, £34.95, pignut.co.uk

Visit eqsuk.com to find your nearest Michael Miller stockist.

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Confessions

of a sewing addict

Despite taking a week’s holiday from work – and her sewing machine – Corinne’s still got stitching on her mind...

“It would be untraditional for me not to give my loved ones at least one thing that I’d sewn” I’ve had a week off work. Yes, a whole week without so much as touching my sewing machine, despite having a staycation – and I’m beginning to experience withdrawal symptoms. That’s not to say I haven’t been as

busy as usual. Since confessing to the amount of crafty clutter in my home last month, I’ve taken heaps of neglected stuff to the charity shop. At the moment however, the house still looks like a weird museum dedicated to all things vintage, colourful and quite possibly useful in three years’ time!

Recently, I took advantage of the burst of sunny weather to walk miles with our rescue dog Rebel, foraging for hedgerow fruit as I went along and cussing the fact that the local council only plants hawthorns in the country parks instead of plums, damsons or pears. I’ve also discovered that making jam is not as easy as the BBC makes it look in period dramas, and that crab apples can save a batch of nonsetting blackberry preserve.

I’ve already filled the top shelf of one kitchen cupboard with an assortment of fruits infused in gin, and I’ll be starting on some plum rum any minute now. In fact, the kitchen is so clean, I’ve become almost domesticated. The plan is to preserve all the fruits of my labours and give them away as Christmas presents this year – because there are only so many quilts you can sew for your elderly relatives before they start to suffocate under the weight of them.

Although, perhaps one more wouldn’t hurt?

If you’re tempted to make one, I think a quilt is a thoughtful and practical gift – but then, I am biased.

Handmade TRADITIONS It would be untraditional for me not to give my loved ones at least one thing that I’d sewn, so I’m going to rustle up some nesting fabric baskets to pack all the goodies in. I’ll decorate the jars and bottles with matching covers and probably make some oven gloves to go with MY ORIGAMI FABRIC NESTING BOXES ARE GREAT FOR PRESENTING GIFTS - FIND THIS PROJECT AT SEWMAG.CO.UK

TEENS WILL LOVE THESE LITTLE LEATHER WALLETS I MADE FOR ISSUE 27 OF MAKE IT TODAY DRESSMAKER, ON SALE 7TH SEPTEMBER.

Corinne’s (mostly) go t her Christmas sewing plan ned! them, in the vain hope that my dad will finally throw out the badly burnt pair that he insists ‘still have plenty of life left in them.

The teenagers in my life won’t be overly impressed with preserves, so I’ll have to think again for them, especially as they also have too many quilts, cushions, bags and baskets between them. I’m leaning towards cosmetic pouches filled with handmade confectionery or maybe leather trimmed stationery accessories to see them through their last years in school.

Whatever I make, I’ll need to start soon.

I’m planning to relax during December; no more panicked stitching the week before the big day, as I’ll have enough on my plate cooking Christmas dinner for the family. I also feel that a week is long enough to be away from my favourite hobby so come Monday, it’ll be back to the cutting mat and my faithful friend, the Janome HD2200...

I’LL SOON HAVE SOME PLUM GIN READY FOR CHRISTMAS...

FABRIC COVERS TURN JARS OF HOME-MADE JAM INTO LOVELY GIFTS!

SEE CORINNE IN ACTION AT YOUTUBE.COM/THECRAFTSCHANNEL 66

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Confessions of a sewing addict 103.indd 68

08/09/2017 13:52

3 WAYS WITH

d f

sew gifts

d Riley Blake f f Comfort & Joy d d d

Those who enjoy a traditional Christmas theme will love this new collection by Riley Blake, which combines snowflake, mistletoe, reindeer and other wintry motifs in shades of red, green and cream.

It has inspired Sew's very own Corinne Bradd to create three festive projects, including a smart skirt for the Christmas tree, a sweet elf toy, plus a hooded bath towel to keep little ones cosy and dry!

Get started

• Cotton, patterned, plain in pink • Red felt • White face cloth (35cm square) and bath towel (70cm x 110cm) • Thick white yarn • Pom-pom maker, 8cm diameter • Toy stuffing • Embroidery thread, black, pink, red • Buttons, two small black, three medium green • Large brass bell 5mm seam allowance used throughout.

To find your nearest Riley Blake stockist, visit eqsuk.com 67

sewmag.co.uk

Say hello to Archie!

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Sew a Santa baby towel

Stitch a tree skirt

Size: 89cm x 102cm

1

Lay a 70cm x 110cm white bath towel flat and trim away any hems that add thickness. Draw around a saucer at each corner and trim to round off. Mark the centre on one long side with a pin.

Measure 29cm along two adjacent edges on a 35cm square face cloth and cut diagonally to make two different sized hood pieces. Cut the same shape as the smaller triangle from red snowflake fabric and set aside.

Stitch the long edge of the small towelling triangle to the long edge of the towel, matching up the centres.

Flatten the seam and topstitch to neaten. Place the fabric triangle over the remaining smaller face cloth piece, matching up the corner. Tack the fabric to the face cloth on the short edges. Fold up 2cm and a further 4cm of excess face cloth to make a band across the base of the triangle.

Trim the excess at the corners and topstitch. Pin and tack the front of the hood to the back.

2

Size: 76cm diameter

3

Cut 4cm wide strips of plaid fabric and join end to end to make binding.

Stitch one edge of the binding to the front of the wrap, right sides together, beginning at the top of the hood and folding in the short raw edges. Fold the binding over to the back, hem, then slip stitch in place. Make a large fluffy pom-pom from white yarn and stitch it to the point of the hood (see the panel below).

Perfect pom-poms

1

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Use it to cut two wedge shapes each from red snowflake, red plaid, light green main, cream globes and green wreath fabric to make ten pieces.

Stitch the wedges right sides together along the long edges to create an almost complete circle, but not joining the two opposite wedges to make one. Fold under 5mm and double hem each of the remaining two long edges.

Cut 3cm wide strips of black floral fabric and join end to end to create binding. Stitch one edge of the binding along the

2

bottom edge of the skirt, right sides together, mitring the angles as necessary and leaving 5mm extra at each end. Fold in the excess at the ends, double fold the binding over the edge of the skirt and slip stitch in place on the reverse with black thread.

Bind the inner edge of the skirt in the same way, but leave 36cm extra at each end to form ties. Double fold and slip stitch the binding against the skirt.

Fold the long raw edges of the excess to the middle, fold the short ends in and then fold in half lengthways to make a narrow cord. Pin, then slip stitch in place.

3

Use shop-bought bia s binding for an even speedier versio n!

If you don't have a pom-pom maker, wrap yarn around a large fork roughly 50 times. Tie a 5cm length of yarn around this, threading it between the centre prongs, and tie tightly. Cut the loops formed either side and snip any uneven yarn ends to neaten the ball.

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sew gifts

Make Holly Berry Size: 21cm x 46cm

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Use them to cut two body pieces from light green fabric, two heads and four hands from plain pink cotton, four legs from red plaid and four feet from black floral fabric. With right sides together, sew a hand to the end of each arm and a head piece to the top of each body piece, then press.

Join the feet to the ends of each leg. Press, pin, and sew the legs right sides together, leaving the top edge open. Clip the curves, turn right side out and stuff.

Use black thread and running stitch to tightly gather up 3cm of fabric at the front of each foot so it bends forward, then fasten off. Stitch through the centre of each knee area several times to create a fold so the legs can bend.

Tack the legs over one body part so the raw edges line up with the bottom of the body.

Pin the other body piece on top, right sides together, and stitch, beginning 1cm up from the bottom edge and working around the outline. Move the legs out of the way as you sew and leave a gap along the last side.

Clip the curves and corners, then turn right sides out, pulling the legs through the gap first. Stuff the rest of the body, fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip stitch closed. Sew two small black buttons to the face as eyes and embroider eyelashes, plus a pink nose and red mouth.

If making for a youngster, omit all of the buttons, embroider the eyes, and sew the bell on securely

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

2 3

Thank you to Sew reader Catherine Anderson for helping us name our mascot!

Help us with suggestions for next month’s at facebook.com/sewhq

4

5

Sew two 6cm x 25cm strips of green wreath fabric right sides together at the short ends. Hem one long side of the ring and gather the opposite edge with running stitch. Cut 5cm x 22cm of black floral fabric and stitch into a ring. Sew one long edge to the gathered edge of the skirt, right sides together, then fold over the ring to make a waistband and slip stitch to the inside. Fit the skirt onto the elf and secure.

Cut two hat pieces from red snowflake fabric and stitch right sides together, leaving the bottom edge open. Snip 8cm x 23cm of red plaid, sew into a ring on the short edge and fold in half, right sides facing out. Match up

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the raw edges of the hat band to the wrong side of the hat and stitch. Turn the hat right sides out and fold the band up to conceal the seam. Place the hat on the head and secure with a few stitches at the back.

Make two 12cm long plaits from white yarn, wrap thread around the ends to secure, then add small felt bow shapes.

Sew the top of each plait to the back of the head underneath the hat band, so they fall over the shoulders. Cut a red felt collar piece and slip stitch around the neck. Add a line of three green buttons down the elf's front. Stitch a large brass bell to the point of the hat to finish.

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Get started • Cotton, plain red, patterned dark green and light green • Felt, green, brown • Lightweight interfacing • Embroidery thread, green • Ribbon, 3mm wide, 1.5cm wide • Buttons • Fabric pen, white

Size Cutlery holder: 10cm x 21.5cm Felt tree: 11cm x 15cm Fabric tree: 10cm x 14cm

Cutting guide Cutlery holder: cut one 13cm x 26cm panel each from red and green fabric

SPEND AN AFTERNOON MAKING THIS

festive trio

Sometimes it feels good just to get started on a few Christmas projects, so even if you’ve got just half an hour spare, we have you covered.

Here, our pals at Cricut have shared three easy ideas that would be made even more fun with their new design and cut machine - the Cricut Explore Air 2 - where you can choose from a library of designs, resize them to your needs, and cut straight from your fabric.

Tree: cut two isosceles triangles (11cm base, 13cm sides) each from green felt and green fabric Tree trunk: cut three 3cm x 3.5cm rectangles from brown felt Note: fuse lightweight interfacing to all pieces except one trunk piece.

1cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated

Add wadding between the fabrics to create a padded version!

Make a cutlery holder

1

Cut both pieces as indicated in the cutting guide, then embroider or iron vinyl transfers to add a message at the top of the red panel. With the pieces right sides together, sew around the edges, leaving a small gap along one short edge.

Turn right sides out and sew the gap closed.

Press the fabric, turning the bottom up by 11cm to create a green pocket. Pin ribbon

2

across the width of the pocket, tucking the ends inside. Topstitch along each long side. Attach embellishments and a small bow to the ribbon band.

the non-interfaced trunk inside the gap and sew it closed, catching the felt. Sew a ribbon loop to the top of the tree.

Stitch a felt tree

Sew a plush evergreen Cut all pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. With right sides together, sew around the edge of two two fabric trees using a 5mm seam allowance, leaving a 5cm gap centrally at the bottom. Turn right side out and stuff. Pin one end of

Place two felt tree shapes together and use green embroidery thread to work blanket stitch around the edge. Use an iron to fuse the remaining trunks centrally to the bottom of the tree. Attach a ribbon loop to the top as before. Draw tinsel with a white fabric pen and sew buttons as baubles.

DREAM MACHINE The new design and cut Cricut Explore Air 2 machine allows you to make almost anything with your own unique designs.

It works with more than 50 materials, has built-in Bluetooth and even a Cricut Design Space iPad app! £259, hobbycraft.co.uk

Find a baby blanket and snowflake cushion how-to using the Cricut Explore Air 2 at sewmag.co.uk 71

sewmag.co.uk

You can enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways

WIN A

Prizes worth

£1,998!

embroidery machine!

Make Christmas extra special by giving personalised, embellished and monogrammed gifts – Janome’s Memory Craft 400E embroidery machine makes it easier than you could imagine, and TWO lucky readers will each win one.

Elle stitched a Linden sweatshirt, £12.39, grainlinestudio.com and embroidered it with Kawaii Christmas lights, £2.32 each, urbanthreads.com

“I can’t get enough of the Janome MC400E embroidery machine. It’s so easy to use that I was customising garments within minutes of opening the box! The USB port opens up a world of designs available online whilst the user-friendly software lets you get creative with customising - making your imagination the only limit to what you can achieve.”

2 to

WIN!

This computerised machine boasts precisionoptimising features such as jump-thread trimming and adjustable hoop position and stitching speed, plus you can save time with the advanced needle threader, auto thread cutter and easy-set bobbin. In fact, the machine is so accommodating that you’ll find it hard to resist customising everything you own!

ELLE HARRIS, SEWCIAL SEAMSTRESS AND COMMUNITY EVENT ORGANISER

CHECK OUT ELLE’S INSTAGRAM @SEWPOSITIVITY

FEATURES sew LOVES...

3 160 built-in designs 3 Fully computerised 3 Embroiders 20cm square 3 Six monogramming fonts 3 Design time indicator

Memory Craft 400E, £999, janome.co.uk

To enter, turn to p75 to fill out the form or go online!

The competition closes on 29.11.17

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enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways MADEIRA THREADS We all dream of having an organised thread library with the perfect one always within reach. You’ll be well on your way to this with a £100 bundle of Madeira threads, including Aerofil sew-all, Rayon for embroidery, Polyneon high sheen and Polyneon multicolour.

That’s 72 spools! madeira.co.uk We have five bundles to give away.

To enter, tick MADEIRA

Worth

£100!

1 to win!

SIMPLICITY SATIN 197

This model is not just a pretty face. It also boasts amazing features including 197 stitch patterns, an auto threading needle, drop-in bobbin and thread cutter. Create and Craft is also offering an extension table and three Simplicity patterns for good measure! createandcraft.com We have one machine to give away. To enter, tick CREATE

Christmas

BUMPER Giveaways

£7,350+FROM FATHER STITCHMAS ’Tis the season to WIN great prizes! sew SUBSCRIPTION

Mega bundle

The Craft Store is offering a massive prize bundle worth £75, including a Florence the Flamingo kit and mini sewing tin, 2m of red leopard print spandex fabric, and a complete dressmaking kit to make a shirt dress with New Look 6449, 2.5m of denim, thread, interfacing and buttons.

Visit craftstoreuk.com We have four bundles to give away. To enter, tick CRAFT STORE

Arguably the most desirable prize in the whole lot – but we might be biased. 13 issues of Sew jam-packed with sewing expertise delivered straight to your door, what more could a stitcher want?

Visit sewmag.co.uk/subscribe

1 to win!

We have one subscription to give away. To enter, tick SUBSCRIPTION

FREEMOVE AIR

Pressing is a vital part of dressmaking, so you want an iron that makes it effortless.

Worth £79.99, Tefal’s cordless, lightweight Freemove Air allows you unrestricted movement (no lifting required as it slides into the base), plus features a smooth ceramic soleplate. It also recharges quickly and turns off after eight minutes. tefal.co.uk

Worth

£75!

We have six Freemove Air FV6520 irons to give away.

To enter, tick TEFAL

6 to win!

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Bumper Giveaways 103.indd 7

08/09/2017 15:49

enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways TILDA SANTA

Stitching homemade decorations is the perfect family activity for the festive season.

Get the kit to make your very own 52cm tall Scandi-style Santa from the latest Tilda Cottage collection. The only thing missing is a warm glass of mulled wine! Contact groves @stockistenquiries.co.uk We have five kits to give away.

To enter, tick TILDA

ONLINE WORKSHOP

6

Brush up on your stitchy skills from the comfort of your own home by enrolling on your choice of a video-based sewing course.

Create a skirt, dress, jersey top or shirt using a PDF pattern, learning at your own pace with Tilly’s expert guidance. Check out the workshops at tillyandthebuttons.com

to win!

We have three online workshops to give away. To enter, tick TILLY

3 to win!

5 to win!

SPARKLE & FROST

Stitch your most festive projects yet with a Metallic Effect thread set by Gütermann plus one metre of a gorgeous design from its French Cottage fabric collection... Just think of all the amazing gifts you’ll be able to whip up! Contact gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have six bundles to give away.

To enter, tick GUTERMANN

5 to win!

SIGNED BOOK! Who wants to win a copy of Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts by our beloved columnist Stuart Hillard? It’s a fab book full of ingenious quilting ideas and techniques. Did we forget to mention that Stuart himself will be signing it? Form an orderly queue, please. pavilionbooks.com We have five signed books to give away. To enter, tick STUART HILLARD

We have more than

£7,350 OF PRESENTS TO DELIVER!

to say thank you to all our lovely readers!

15

pairs to win!

STITCHING, SEWING & HOBBYCRAFTS SHOW Treat yourself and a friend to a great day out at the Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts show at EventCity in Manchester from 1st -3rd February 2018. You’ll take away lots of inspiration and knowledge from your stitchy faves, plus your fill of the latest industry goodies.

Tickets available at stitchandhobby.co.uk We have 15 pairs of tickets to give away.

To enter, tick MANCHESTER

CRICUT EXPLORE AIR This smart die-cutting machine will automatically shape intricate patterns out of everything from vellum paper to leather. You can use the 50,000-strong image library or upload your own – design your own project templates then take them straight to your sewing machine! uk.cricut.com We have one Cricut Explore Air to give away. To enter, tick EXPLORE AIR

Worth

£229!

Worth

£50!

FESTIVE SEWING BOOKS

The UK’s leading arts and crafts title supplier Search Press is kindly offering a £50 festive book bundle containing every project you need to deck the halls (and the rest of your home) this season. You’ll enjoy stitching festive home makes and turning your hand to felting. Visit searchpress.com We have seven book bundles to give away.

To enter, tick SEARCH

#SEWTAGYOURMAKE

What have you been making recently? Post your photos using the hashtag #SewTagYourMake on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, tagging @sewhq to automatically enter this competition.

One entrant will win a bundle of Long Island fat quarters by Gütermann. The winner will be announced in our Sew Social community letters page next issue! For stockist details, contact gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk

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Bumper Giveaways 103.indd 8

08/09/2017 15:51

enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways KAWAII FABRIC

‘Kawaii’ means cute and we couldn’t think of a more apt word for this bundle, which you’ll have no trouble using over the holidays. It contains a variety of iron-on patches and half a metre each of festive fabrics, including Michael Miller. Visit kawaiifabric.com We have ten bundles to give away. To enter, tick KAWAII

BOOK VOUCHER Get the Christmas shopping done, or treat yourself to £77* worth of new crafty books with your online voucher. Browse craft titles at ctpub.com We have three US $100 vouchers to give away. To enter, tick C&T

10 to win!

£77 £7 7

3

printing: US $100 = £77.29

CHRISTMAS KNITS

MANCHESTER

18-22

SEARCH

C&T

STUART HILLARD

CRAFT STORE

SUBSCRIPTION

CREATE

TEFAL

DKS100

TILDA

EXPLORE AIR

TILLY

100 to win!

We have 100 patterns to give away. To enter, tick 6-10, 12-16 or 18-22

Just tick the boxes to win!

12-16

We have five filled boxes to give away.

To enter, tick GROVES

Writing about sewing means that the Sew team has a bigger stockpile of patterns than we could ever stitch up, so we’re sharing ours with you! Select your size to win a surprise Simplicity or New Look pattern, which can be a simple top or Amazing Fit dress and everything in between. Visit simplicitynew look.com

£55!

MADEIRA

What a lovely gift for you! Five lucky readers will win a sturdy sewing box jam-packed with brilliant Hemline and Trimits goodies – from buttons, threads and a magnetic wrist pincushion to scissors, festive fat quarters and sparkly trims, worth over £65! Contact groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

LUCKY DIP

Worth

6-10

GROVES GOODIES

!

We have five bundles to give away. To enter, tick GIRL CHARLEE

£77

*Exchange rate at time of

to win!

Why settle for a jumper when you could stitch a whole Christmas outfit? Girl Charlee is offering four metres of festive fabrics worth £55 so you can spread the cheer around... or make multiple garments for yourself – we won’t tell Santa!

View the full range of knits at girlcharlee. co.uk

5 to win!

To enter our giveaways, just tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry to us no later than 29.11.2017. Mark your envelope: Sew Christmas Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG. Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other

Turn to p72 to see our fantastic Janome giveaway! To enter, tick DKS100

Name Address

Postcode Daytime phone

GIRL CHARLEE

Mobile

GROVES

Email

GUTERMANN

Date of birth

KAWAII

Only one entry per household. Terms and conditions can be found online at sewmag.co.uk

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**ALL SEWN UP classified XMAS 17_ALL SEWN UP 07/09/2017 17:22 Page 76

directory FABRICS & SEWING MACHINES

PATTERNS

www.fabricland.co.uk Everything from Craft Cottons, through Polar Fleece to Lycra

tel: 01425 461444

419 Barlow Moor Rd Chorlton Manchester M21 8ER MANCHESTER Tel: 0161 881 7960

BIRMINGHAM

1 Moseley St Digbeth Birmingham B5 6JX Tel: 0121 622 6102

1000s of Rolls at Realistic Prices!

Stockists of all kinds of • Fashion Fabrics • Woolens • Worsteds • Polywools • Polyesters • Cotton • Dance Wear • Linings • Bridal Wear • Satins • Suiting • Lycra and much, much more!

www.leonsfabrics.co.uk Linton Tweeds design and weave fabric for the world's most exclusive fashion houses buy yours online today

www.lintondirect.co.uk DIGITAL EDITIONS ARE NOW AVAILABLE ON THE APPLE AND KINDLE NEWSTAND

Dragonfly Fabrics Modern Dressmaking Fabrics Mayfield, Near Tunbridge Wells.

01892 731087

Nationwide Exhibitions 0117 907 1000

Join in the biggest national sewing event ever held in the UK Supporting local “Bricks & Mortar” buisnesses Here at Sew magazine we realise how tough the high street retail environment can be.

Our mission is to publicise just how important local sewing shops, haberdashers and fabric outlets are not only in terms of the range of products that you can touch and feel before buying but also the massive amount of help and expert advice available through these outlets to enhance your hobby.

Here’s how to get involved

*PLEASE NOTE, DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTIONS WILL NOT INCLUDE SUBSCRIPTIONS GIFTS NOR COVER MOUNTED GIFTS.

Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk

21st October 2017

Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics.

Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions.

And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST

Within our magazine not only will we be running tons of pre event publicity, interviews and marketing but also there will be Sew Saturday directory pages where your business can be featured under your county heading and also at no additional cost on our fully intereactive webite map seen by over 50,000 unique visitors a month!

Here’s the deal Each shop will also receive a full colour classified advert in the Sew Saturday directory in the August-November issues of Sew Magazine, for a small fee of £40 + VAT per issue, then reduced to £30 + VAT for the December-February issues when the Sew Saturday campaign continues onto Shop Local.

And don’t forget you get the fully interactive store finder map entry absolutely free!

Want to sign up?

Call Anna on 01206 505932 or e-mail anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk or call Hannah on 01206 505495 or e-mail hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk

www.sewmag.co.uk

the BOOKSHELF our favourite sewing titles this month

sew BOOKS

SEW YOURSELF A MERRY LITTLE CHRISTMAS

by Mary Hertel Warning: this book may get you hooked on paper piecing. It shares great stash and time-saving tips to help you make 16 festive blocks with the technique, which can then be used to make eight home and gift projects – you'd need a workshop in the North Pole to get through all the possible combos!

C&T Publishing, £14.99, searchpress.com

WIN all of the festive titles on p73!

EASY STUFF TO MAKE WITH FLUFF by Gillian Harris We don't know a single stitcher who doesn't like to dabble in other crafts, and what better gift to give than a host of new skills? With 25 projects canvassing needle-felting, weaving, spinning, knitting and crochet, this taster title will take you from homespun to homerun.

Pavilion Books, £9.99, pavilionbooks.com

SEW ADVENT CALENDARS by Debbie Shore The build-up to Christmas is arguably bigger than the day itself, and this guidebook will ensure that you're properly prepared, with 20 designs to suit every family member – even the dog! As always with Debbie, her techniques are thoughtfully explained and packed with handy tips.

Search Press, £9.99, searchpress.com

MINI FELT CHRISTMAS by Sachiyo Ishii Stitching felt is cheap, cheerful and incredibly easy! This book's instructions are accompanied by handy photos for all of the hand stitches and shaping techniques you'll need to make a choice of 30 projects, ranging from cute tree decs to a complete nativity. The most difficult thing will be deciding whether to keep or gift your creations!

Search Press, £10.99, searchpress.com

WILLIAM MORRIS: DECOR & DESIGN

by Elizabeth Wilhide A major player in traditional British textile arts, Morris' designs transcend the Victorian era to jump right into your fabric stash. Take inspiration for how to introduce his distinctly satisfying patterns into your home and wardrobe (without breaking the bank!) from this ode to great British design.

Pavilion Books, £14.99, pavilionbooks.com

Diary date

AVAILABLE 5TH OCTOBER

SEWING YOUR PERFECT CAPSULE WARDROBE

by Arianna Cadwallader & Cathy McKinnon Stitching just a vest, skirt, blouse, dress and trousers that can be paired with almost anything will make your new year closet cleanse much easier. This go-to title offers great fitting, fabric and finishing advice plus comes with two versions of each garment in a full-size pull-out pattern, helping you dress effortlessly chic.

Kyle Books, £19.99, kylebooks.co.uk

MEGA MINI CROSS STITCH by Makoto Oozu Cross stitching is seriously underrated, if you ask us – it's a irresistibly charming way to decorate fabric. If you want 900 incredible motifs at your disposal (with full charts plus extra technique tips) from dinos and robots to people, animals and habby goodies, this book will be your new go-to.

Pavilion Books, £9.99, pavilionbooks.com

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TOPof the CLASS Take your sewing even further with one of these workshops!

Now that autumn is here, many of us are well into our sewing projects for the colder months – and even as far ahead as Christmas! Why not try a class to make a useful tote bag or for those with an embroidery machine, enrol in a workshop that provides the low-down on what you can create with it. If you or a friend want to learn dressmaking as your New Year’s resolution, sign up for a course with the help of a professional in 2018 – you’ll be creating your own spring wardrobe in no time!

SIGN UP FOR A 2018 COURSE NOW !

Poppin Pocket Tote Bag Gather ‘N’ Sew, Bourne, Lincs,

Computerised Machine Embroidery Exeter Sewing Machine Company

This fold-up shopping bag would make a lovely Christmas gift – that’s if you can bear to give it away! Priced £40, this class will demonstrate how to make a fully lined tote with a secure zip closure, plus external and internal pockets.

All materials must be purchased beforehand, and the fabric pieces need to be cut out at home. For more details about this and other bag sewing classes, and available dates in November, visit gathernsew.co.uk or call 01778 420464.

Tutor Liz Keegan follows up her successful computerised machine embroidery class for beginners with another workshop aimed at experienced stitchers who want to discover more creative effects that they can achieve with their embroidery machines. You will need to bring your own machine, accessories, fabric and a USB stick. Costing £40, the next date is 9th November. Visit exetersewing. co.uk for more details and call 01392 275660 to book your place.

Dressmaking Tuition Programme 2018 Jane White Couture Tuition, Barton-upon-Humber A new programme of dressmaking tuition, designed and taught personally by Jane White (City & Guilds Fashion Adv. & Cert. Ed), is now open for enrolment with all courses beginning from January 2018. These flexible and affordable modular courses allow stitchers of all abilities to learn a wide range of garment and pattern cutting skills at their own pace. For full course information, visit janewhitetuition .co.uk or call 01482 840712.

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**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 08/09/2017 14:54 Page 79

Sew Saturday

Proudly sponsored by:

21st October, 2017 Supported by:

BEDFORDSHIRE

We’re part of

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Visit our store on Sew Saturday 1D Well Street, Buckingham MK18 1EW

Come to the shop and join in the fun!

• Patchwork Kits and Fabric • Workshops • Haberdashery • Yarns

www.tudorrosepatchwork.co.uk 01234 824983

01280 822236 www.nimble-thimble.co.uk

BRISTOL

46 Sandy Park Rd, Brislington BS4 3PF Mon - Fri 9.30am - 5.30pm Sat 9am - 5pm

0117 977 8216

CARDIFF

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13 Camms Corner Dinas Powys CF64 4QY Tel: 029 2115 2628 email: shop@whitegeckoevents.co.uk

CARDIFF

1 Biddicks Court, St. Austell, Cornwall PL25 5PY

01726 75385 Patchwork, Quilting, Craft and Dressmaking fabrics and classes, sewing and knitting patterns, wool, haberdashery and Toyota and Pfaff Sewing Machines.

CORNWALL

Cornish Garden Nurseries, Barras Moor, Perranarworthal, Truro Opening hours: Saturday: 12.00-16.30 Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday: 10.00-17.30 7 Steel Close, Eaton Socon, St Neots PE19 8TT

25 Gelligaer Gardens, Cathays, Cardiff, CF24 4LT www.trixielixie.co.uk hello@trixielixie.co.uk

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www.direct-sewingmachines.co.uk BRISTOL

CORNWALL

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

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www.coastandcountrycrafts.co.uk sally@coastandcountrycrafts.co.uk Tel: 01872 870478

CORNWALL

The Sewing Studio 10-12 Chapel Street Redruth, Cornwall TR15 2BY

Phone: 01209 216942 sales@thesewingstudio.co.uk

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

CLEVELAND

CORNWALL

Be Inspired www.fabritastic.co.uk

www.fabritastic.co.uk laura@fabritastic.co.uk 01733 367260 /fabritastic 26 Culley Court, Orton Southgate, Peterborough. PE2 6WA

Modern, designer, cotton fabrics, dressmaking and modern home decor.

Unit 4-5 Holwood Business Centre, Blunts Landrake, Cornwall.

07577 079450 shop@sewinspiredplymouth.co.uk www.sewinspiredplymouth.co.uk

**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 08/09/2017 12:38 Page 80

CORNWALL

DEVON

ESSEX

GREATER MANCHESTER

.PAINTERS. a Cornish treasure trove of art & craft materials

Belle Fabrics

patchwork fabric, textile art, fine art, workshops and more painters@craft-box.com 7 Fore Street Liskeard Cornwall PL14 3JA

www.craft-box.com 01579 347237 COUNTY DURHAM

For Bridal, Dress, Craft & Furnishing Fabrics Stockists of Butterick, Vogue, McCalls & Simplicity Dress Patterns

We offer designer fabrics, wools, notions and workshops

EXTENSIVE RANGE OF HABERDASHERY ‘AN ENORMOUS RANGE OF FABRICS’ STOCKISTS OF STYLECRAFT WOOLS

TEL 01702 474115 31 Mill Street, Sidmouth, EX10 8DF

01395 513209

info@belle-fabrics.co.uk 4-12 Elm Road, Leigh-on-Sea, Essex SS9 1SN OPEN MON-SAT 9am-5.30pm

0161 478 8236

www.sidmouthfabrics.com

EAST SUSSEX

61 Grosvenor Street, Stalybridge SK15 2JN

www.all-fabrics.co.uk HAMPSHIRE

FIFE

14 Shamrock Way, Hythe Marina, Southampton SO45 6DY

Little Sew and Sew 11b Bexhill Road St. Leonards-on-Sea East Sussex TN38 0AH

info@littlesewandsewsussex.co.uk 01424 423375 www.littlesewandsewsussex.com

CUMBRIA

EAST SUSSEX

61 High Street, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7DL 01383 723 995 Haberdashery, yarn, fabric, patchwork & quilting supplies.

Sewing machine sales, servicing & repair.

Open 7 days www.facebook.com/sewyarncraftyfife

FIFE

02381 783386 sue@newforestfabrics.co.uk www.newforestfabrics.co.uk Stockist for: Patchwork and Dress Making Fabrics plus much more…

New Arrivals Weekly

HAMPSHIRE

Minerva Blue Fabric for soft furnishings, craft and upholstery, haberdashery, bags, scarves and other gifts.

DERBYSHIRE

EAST SUSSEX

Branksomewood Road • Fleet • Hampshire • GU51 4JS

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

HAMPSHIRE

Be Creative 11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham GL50 4AA

Be Creative

Ad Mak ults and C e& Ta hildr on th kes ava ens’ ialble e da y!

13 Sutton Park Road, Seaford, East Sussex, BN25 1QX Tel. 01323 490912 Monday - Saturday 9.30m - 4.30pm

DEVON

EAST SUSSEX

01252 444220

minervabluesewing Tel: 07592 639594 Email: minervabluesewing@btinternet.com 88 High Street, Newburgh, Fife KY14 6AQ

Visit us for local service with internet prices tel: 01242 244025 www.westendsewing.co.uk

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

Fabrics, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Knitting and Sewing Lessons 39 Parsonage Street, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

www.sew‐busy.co.uk

**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 08/09/2017 12:38 Page 81

Sew Saturday

Proudly sponsored by:

21st October, 2017 Supported by:

HERTFORDSHIRE

KENT

FRANKLINS Haberdashery, Yarns and Craft!

10% off ALL orders using discount code

SEWZIP2017

HERTFORDSHIRE

Opening times 10am - 5pm Park Mall Shopping Centre, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8RY

LANCASHIRE

142 Cotterells Hemel Hempstead Herts, HP1 1JQ 01442 245383

One of Hertfordshire’s largest stockists for wools, fabrics, haberdashery and crafts www.needlecraftstore.co.uk contact@needlecraftstore.co.uk

KENT

Your award-winning craft superstore!

Papercraft, Knit & Stitch, Classes & Demonstrations!

Capitol Centre, Preston, Lancashire, PR5 4AW (behind Dunelm Mill) OPEN: MONDAY - SATURDAY; 10AM - 5.30PM SUNDAY; 11AM - 4PM

Tel: 01772 880852 www.inspirationscraft.co.uk LANCASHIRE

Janome •Juki • Brother • Pfaff • Bernina • Alfa Britannia • RMF sewing tables & cabinets CHELMSFORD COLCHESTER 13-15 St Botolphs Street 201 Moulsham Street CO2 7DU CM2 0LG 01206 563955 01245 346300 SALISBURY IPSWICH 41 Fisherton Street 1-3 St Matthews Street SP2 7RB IP1 3EL 01722 554466 01473 221188 PRICES BETTER THAN SHOPPING ONLINE!!

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ROUGE FABRICS Join us for Fabrics, haberdashery, knitting yarns and buttons.

We stock haberdashery, craft fabric, threads, ribbons, craft essentials and sew much more!

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68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, Lancs, PR3 3WH.

07709 249014 www.fabricsagogo.com fabricsagogo@btinternet.com

01772 780883 oh-sewcrafty@btconnect.com www.facebook.com/ItsOhSewCrafty @ItsOhSewCrafty on Twitter

SEW SATURDAY on 21st October

Over 2000 fabrics in stock

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Merry Christmas from C&H Fabrics 20 % Off All Dress Fabrics & Sewing Machines 3 For 2 On All Fat Quarters & Remnants

FABRIC PATTERNS SEWING WORKSHOPS

On Sew Saturday 21st October 2017 only Brighton & Canterbury & Chichester & Eastbourne & Guildford & Horsham & Tunbridge Wells & Winchester

www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk

**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 08/09/2017 14:33 Page 82

LEICESTERSHIRE

At L&C Fabrics We Sew, We Make, We Create 217-219 Grimsby Road, Cleethorpes, N.E. Lincolnshire, DN35 7HB

Unit 2, Albion House, Albion Street, Hull, HU1 3TE

Mon - Fri 9.30-4pm • Sat 9.30-4pm • Late Night 6-8pm

Tues-Sat 10am-3.30pm

T. 01472 600874

T. 01482 325072 Email. lcfabrics@live.co.uk

FREE CAR PARKING!

LEICESTERSHIRE

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LONDON

• Dressmaking • Tailoring • Corsetry • City & Guilds

01670 457150 FABRICS AND HABERDASHERY SEWING MACHINES AND SERVICE SEWING LESSONS ALTERATIONS AND DRESSMAKING

Tel: 01530 416300 @sewwardrobe Sew Wardrobe

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LEICESTERSHIRE

NORTHUMBERLAND

UNIT 3, WARKWORTH DRIVE, ELLINGTON, NE61 5HL

71 Market Street, Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire LE65 1AH

/schoolofsewing @sewalison

The Start of Something YOU

www.thesewingmachineguy.co.uk

NORFOLK

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“Your one stop sewing shop”

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Gorgeous fabrics, haberdashery and essentials

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for dressmakers and quilters

Join Leanne on Sew Saturday for games, competitions, special offers and more!

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Sewing patterns, Stylecraft yarn, Craft kits 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall,

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Official stockist of Elna sewing machines and overlockers

Sewing and Pattern Drafting classes based in Rothbury, Northumberland.

Beginner to Advanced level.

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**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 08/09/2017 15:45 Page 83

Sew Saturday

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Award winning Fabric and Yarn store with over 3,000 fabrics in stock Shop online or in store

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**SEW SATURDAY master_SEW SATURDAY 08/09/2017 14:34 Page 84

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SEWING MACHINES & SERVICING - SEWING CLASSES - FABRICS & HABERDASHERY “WE’RE ALL THINGS SEWING” • Brother & Husqvarna sewing machines and overlockers.

• Sole UK stockist of "Screw B Do" screwdrivers.

• Fun sewing classes for all abilities.

• Fabulous fabrics for quilting, dressmaking, sewing & crafts.

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164A Roberttown Lane Liversedge, WF15 7LT 01924 676 329 info@fabricateshop.co.uk Specialist for all things Patchwork and Quilting Lots of beautiful quality designer fabrics as well as sewing notions, patterns, kits and Blocks of the Month.

Introducing our New Mystery Quilt programme, full details of which can be found on our website.

Classes catering for all abilities as well as weekly club days, all in a friendly and relaxed environment with knowledgeable staff.

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Designer Dressmaking & Quilting Fabrics, Sewing Patterns, Haberdashery and Sewing Workshops

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Carr Lane, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AG Tel: 01484 766950

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CROYDON REUSE ORGANISATION

Come to a workshop and finish your Christmas projects Inspiring Gift ideas

Join us for sewing workshops using recycled fabrics!

1 Church Road, Croydon CR0 1SG

Beautiful Quality Fabrics from Moda, EQS, Timeless Treasures Contact us on 01473 722888 Email: kisquilting@yahoo.co.uk Website: www.kisquilting.co.uk facebook.com/kisquiltingltd

SUFFOLK

Classes can be booked at: www.greencroyden/workshops

TYNE & WEAR

THE ONE-STOP PATCHWORK & QUILTING SHOP FOR ALL QUILTERS We host regular workshops for people of all abilities who want to learn to sew, knit, crochet, weave and dress make.

A delightful shop and workshop situated in the heart of Woodbridge, Suffolk providing Fabrics, Yarns, Haberdashery and much more to the craft community. info@fionasfabrics.co.uk www.facebook.com/fionasfabrics 01394 387593 11 Gobbitts Yard, Woodbridge, Suffolk, IP12 1DD

With an Extensive Range of Fabrics, Books, Patterns & Notions!

Regular workshops, Authorised Brother, Husqvarna, Viking sewing machine dealer.

Opening hours: Tuesday – Saturday 10am - 4pm

www.thefatquarters.co.uk

• Official stockists of Pffaf sewing machines; introductory tuition with every machine sold • Quilting supplies; from fabric to finished quilts • Knitting, wool and patterns • Haberdashery • We offer workshops for different types of sewing and knitting skills, whatever your level. See website for timetable

121 Town Street, Horsforth 0113 258 2783 www.aureliacountrycrafts.co.uk

WILTSHIRE

01380 725182

www.kwilterskorner.com Over 1200 bolts of fabric from leading manufacturers including: Riley Blake, Lewis & Irene, Makower, Moda, and Dashwood.

Tel: 01207 565728 5 Chopwell Road, Blackhall Mill, Newcastle upon Tyne NE17 7TN

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We sell fabrics, haberdashery, patterns, sewing lessons, sewing machines and spares.

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your

SEWING GUIDE Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!

THE PERFECT FIT

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage.

Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope.

You can then make any alterations that are necessary.

Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply

graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size. l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300 Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk

Published By Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2017 All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

HIGH BUST FULL BUST

WAIST HIPS

Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.

HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over the elastic.

Keep the elastic handy for future garments.

HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

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READING A PATTERN

wear with

EASE

‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily.

Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitted garment?

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN

Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting. This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper.

Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.

CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC

SELVEDGES

FOLD

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate different dress sizes.

Cut accordingly to yours.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern, where you can make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Match the lines together when stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric as you position your pieces.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate the position for placement on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

““If you’re taking on a project with lots of pattern pieces, or one that you’ll dip in and out of, use sticky labels to name each pattern piece so you can instantly see which is which – you don’t want to get front and back trouser pieces mixed up!”

BECKY OWEN, THE SEWING CAFE

PLACING YOUR PIECES

UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

With the printed pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. The tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching. It also allows you to adjust the placement if necessary.

Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grain arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

S BIA

Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabrics first.

This means that you will know how the fabric reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press the material with an iron using a suitable heat setting. Lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.

The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are an important element to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once they’re cut.

WARP

WEFT

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WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

BIAS The bias grain is the diagonal line that runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric.

Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the weft grain is the selvedge.

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Next month in

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Step-by-step photo guide.

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08/09/2017 13:00

STYLE CLASSICS

WRAP DRESS How simple jersey became the armour of a generation Words by Emma Thompson

Wendi watch, £50, dunelondon.com

Bright blossom neckerchief, £8, acessorize.com

Grammer grey shoe, £85, jonesbootmaker.com

Business Brown shoulder bag, £25.99,newlook.com

Lara wrap dress, £80, boden.co.uk

Looking good doesn’t take as much effort as you might think... wrap dresses are a lazy fashionista’s best friend because you can get dressed while the kettle boils and still look drop-dead gorgeous. Frankly, what

more could you want? If your wardrobe is yet to rock one, this V-neck, curvehugging style suits practically every body type, features flattering sleeves and is often a demure length. The crossover bodice is alluring, yet classy enough for Sunday best – and versatile to boot, as it’s so easy to accessorise. Best of all, it’s comfortable to wear.

Historically, women’s clothing has not been so effortless. A far cry from the corsets and layers of our not-so-distant ancestors, this easy on-and-off garment would have caused outrage in their day... and it did. British designer Charles James offered a zipped style in the early thirties, dubbed the ‘Taxi dress’ because it could be changed into in the back of a cab – but it was thought obscene and didn’t take. During WWII, it was reimagined in the form of Claire McCardell’s award-winning popover dress, used as a bathing suit cover-up, party dress, and everything in between.

The wrap dress we know and love today is largely unchanged from the 1974 design by fashion designer Diane von Fürstenberg, influenced by designer sportswear, along with the elegant, silky wrap tops and skirts of ballerinas, translated into 1970s style – bolder, brighter, stretchier and more synthetic.

When it comes to stitching your own,

Tassle bag, £37.99, bonprix.co.uk start with a basic wrap dress pattern and play with the neckline plunge and sleeve style until you’re happy, then use that base with any knit or jersey fabric that catches your eye to make a garment that you feel confident and secure in.

It’s not difficult to see why the humble jersey garment quickly became a cult item in more liberal times, with more than five million selling in the five years after it first hit the rack. The desirable silhouette (that remains popular four decades on) became a symbol of power and independence for an entire generation of women, opening the door so the career-driven female could step into a boardroom feeling respectable, practical and powerful without compromising her femininity. Today, its iconic credentials continue through the wardrobes of admired figureheads such as the Duchess of Cambridge and Michelle Obama. For its designer von Fürstenberg, it gave financial independence and the freedom to divorce, then launch a dream career and secure a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

But why did this one style resonate so deeply with so many women? Von Fürstenberg was not an established designer, but a 26-year-old woman making clothes to suit her own taste and lifestyle. This resulted in a garment combining beauty and practicality in a way that had been seen only a handful of times before – think Chanel’s skirt suit – that empowers women and reminds us that to be both feminine and strong is not a contradiction.

Leisure

Suede bow ankle boot, £65, very.co.uk

sew your own 25% off* the ultimate wrap dress with code WRAP25

Ultimate wrap dress, £8.50 (PDF), £14.50 (paper), sewoverit.co.uk

Bonny floral cotton spandex knit, £17.95 per metre, girlcharlee.com

Beach Blossm Wardour jersey in pink, £24.95 per metre, libertylondon.com * Discount cannot be used on any other product. Valid from 19/09/17 to 18/10/17 at sewoverit.co.uk

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