A Mountaineering Miscellany by Meridian Rare Books

Meridian Rare Books PO Box 51650 London SE8 4XW United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0) 208 694 2168 Mobile: +44 (0) 7912 409 821 info@meridianrarebooks.co.uk www.meridianrarebooks.co.uk VAT Reg. No.: GB 919 1146 28

Our books are collated in full and our descriptions aim to be accurate. We can provide further information and images of any item on request. If you wish to view an item from this catalogue, please contact us to make suitable arrangements. All prices are nett pounds sterling. VAT will be charged within the EU on the price of any item not in a binding. Postage is additional and will be charged at cost. Any book may be returned if unsatisfactory, in which case please advise us in advance. The present catalogue offers a selection of our stock. To receive a full listing of books in your area of interest, please enquire.

ÂŠMeridian Rare Books 2018

a mountaineering miscellany Books, offprints, journals, photographs, and related printed ephemera

An occasional list

Welcome to this selection of stock from Meridian Rare Books. We are pleased to offer an eclectic mix of items in the current list: books, pamphlets, offprints, journals, photographs, view books, games, expedition commemorative cards, and more. These represent a selection from our inventory, and if you do not find what you are looking for here please send details and we will be happy to quote you other items from stock. In the meantime, we hope that you enjoy the current selection. Stuart Leggatt

recent catalogues

The Alpine Library of Vincent E. Starzinger

the polar regions

catalogue twenty one

1. Abraham, George D. Swiss Mountain Climbs. Mills & Boon, Limited, [1911]. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. xv, 432; 22 outline drawings of mountains, 24 plates from photographs; good copy in the original cloth, slightly rubbed and soiled. Neate A09; Perret 0007; Moss et al. AL039. A guide to the Alps but also a history of Alpine ascents.

2. [Abruzzi.] Giotto Dainelli. ‘The Geographical Work of H.R.H. the Late Duke of the Abruzzi.’ Reprinted from The Geographical Journal, vol. LXXXII no. 1, July 1933. £45

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 15; 6 photo. illusts.; minor spotting, good in the original printed wrappers, a little soiled. An overview of the explorations of the Duke, who undertook expeditions to the great ranges of the world (Mount St. Elias, K2, Ruwenzori), and achieved a farthest north on the Stella Polare in 1900. The article offers a transcript of Dainelli’s lecture to the RGS, as well as of contributions by James Wordie and Martin Conway in the discussion that followed.

3. [Abruzzi.] Mirella Tenderini & Michael Shandrick. The Duke of the Abruzzi. An Explorer’s Life. The Mountaineers/Baton Wicks, 1997. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 188, [1]; illusts., maps; very good in original cloth, d.j. This first full biography of the Duke has a Foreword by Walter Bonatti, a member of the Italian team that made the first ascent of K2 in 1954.

4 5 lecture, and the views shown, are listed on the back of the handbill, the second commencing with “Attempts to effect a North-west Passage” and similar Arctic themes, such as “Captain Parry’s beautiful canal in the ice” and “his dreary winter”. The views that accompany this lecture include a “Grand Iceberg in Baffin’s Bay” and “An Esquimaux Family”. The other lectures relate to land and sea, mountains (with a “Description of Mont Blanc and of the ascent to its summit”), and natural hazards (hurricanes, volcanoes, and the like). We have found an issue of the Birmingham Journal which advertises John Smith’s lectures on the same themes for April 1838, suggesting a similar date for the present handbill.

6. [Alps.] Furka Gletsch-Grimselpass. 32 Ansichten. [Edition Société Graphique S.A., Neuchatel], n.d. c. 1920. £35 Oblong 8vo. pp. [32, comprising 30 full-page b&w illusts. and one doublepage panorama]; very good in original printed wrappers, slightly soiled. An attractive view book of the Furka pass, with a double-page panorama to the central pages, and views from the pass and its approaches.

7. Altamira, Armando. Alpinismo Mexicano. Mexico: Editorial ECLALSA, 1972. £65

First edition. 4to. pp. 208; illusts., sketch maps; creasing to lower outer corners, else good in the orignal pictorial card wrappers. Not in Perret. A history of mountaineering in Mexico, from its main beginnings in the 1920s.

4. [Alpine Club. W. F. Donkin.] The Committees of the Alpine Club and the Photographic Society have the honour to invite … to a Private View of a Collection of Photographs by the Late Mr. W. F. Donkin at the Gainsborough Gallery 25 Old Bond St. on Saturday 16th March 1889. N.p., n.d. [1889]. £275

An invitation, approx. 23 x 19cm., printed to one side only in sepia, inset portrait of Donkin from a sketch, addressee completed by hand (F. E. Blackstone); adhesion marks to verso where some time contained in an album, else VG. William Frederick Donkin (1845-1888) began to photograph the Alps in 1877, and according to one commentator established “first-rate alpine landscape” photography (C. Douglas Milner ‘A Century of Mountain Photography, AJ 62, 1957, p. 159). He travelled around Chamonix, Zermatt, and Grindelwald, and made two visits to the Caucasus with Clinton Dent. He died in the Caucasus on Koshtantau in 1888, and a posthumous exhibition of his photographs was held at the Gainsborough Gallery on London’s Old Bond Street, jointly hosted by the Alpine Club and the Photographic Society. This very rare invitation to the event has been addressed by hand to F. E. Blackstone, probably the Alpine Club member who climbed with, among others, F. F. Tuckett.

5. [Alps. Handbill.] Mr. Smith’s New Lectures on the Beauties of Geographical Science, and the Wonders of Creation, illustrated by nearly One Hundred Splendid Views. N.p., n.d. c. 1830s. £75

A handbill, approx. 8.75 x 11.25” (22 x 29cm.), printed to both sides; some time folded and now frayed with splits to fold and one section detached, minor wear at folds with slight loss of legibility to a few letters, good only. John Smith was the proprietor of the Liverpool Mercury, author of several works of an educational nature, and “Lecturer on the Smith-and-Dolbier Plans of Instruction”. This handbill advertises a course of lectures delivered by Smith in the Assembly Room, Prince’s Street, Bristol, the lectures being accompanied by views “painted by the most eminent Artists in the Kingdom . . Illuminated by the beautiful Oxy-hydrogen Light”. The subjects of each

8. Astill, Tony. Mount Everest The Reconnaissance 1935. The Forgotten Adventure. Published by the Author, 2005. £95

Subscription edition, one of 250 copies, signed by the author. Royal 8vo. pp. [vii], xvii, 359, [2, ads.]; photo. illusts., folding maps; as new in the original cloth in double d.j., t.e.g. The 1935 Mount Everest Reconnaissance, led by Eric Shipton and including H. W. Tilman, was only previously known from articles written at the time and from secondary literature. The narrative of this historically important expedition was compiled by Tony Astill from the original expedition diaries and photographs, as well as maps based on Spender’s surveys. The book won the 2006 Mountaineering History prize at Banff. Correction: In our 2013 catalogue celebrating the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest, we offered a copy of the present work from the library of Michael Ward. In our description we wrote that “Astill was greatly assisted in his research for the book by Michael Ward.” This is inaccurate, and although Michael Ward gave the author help, advice and encouragement, the book is entirely the work of Tony Astill.

9. [Atkins, Henry Martin.] Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc, on the 22nd and 23rd of August, 1837. Not Published, London, 1838. £450

First edition, first state [i.e. without plates]. 8vo. pp. iii [recte iv], [5]-49, [1], [1, “Statement of all the Ascents”]; slight dent affecting fore-edge of text block, else very good in the original brown cloth, lettered in gilt to upper cover, small chip to head of spine, minor soiling. Neate A72; Nava G/3; Meckly 005; Perret 0161. Atkins (1818-1842) made the twenty-fourth ascent of Mont Blanc, describing the experience in a letter to his brother. The letter was well received back in England, and Atkins’ uncle, J. G. Cooke, “decided to print a few copies for private circulation only” (‘Introduction’, which is initialled J. G. C.). Atkins himself was still abroad and unable to revise the work, but it seems likely that on his return he was able to supply illustrations which furnished the plates for later versions of his narrative. Atkins died in 1842, and the description of his ascent was initially distributed with a tipped-in obituary notice at the rear, but soon reissued with changes to the title-page and corrections to the text.

10. Ball, John, ed. Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers. A Series of Excursions by Members of the Alpine Club. London: Longman, Green, Longman, & Roberts, 1860. £75

Fifth edition (‘Knapsack’ edition). 8vo. pp. xv, 328; 8 maps; very good in contemporary full calf prize binding for King’s College, London, with crest in gilt to upper boards, rubbed to extremities. This fifth edition of collected essays by members of the Alpine Club was issued in a handy pocket size for ease of transport.

11. Ball, John. Ball’s Alpine Guides. Central Tyrol including the Gross Glockner. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1873. £125

First edition. 8vo. pp. [ii], 139-314, [1, ad.]; 2 folding maps, one folding panorama, key map front endpapers; minor embrowning to free endpapers, hinges slightlycracked, ownership inscription of Archibald James, 1875, to title, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, slightly rubbed at extremities. Neate B21; Perret 0236; cf. Moss et al. AL012.

12 12. Bartholomew, John. Orographical Map of Scotland. Edinburgh: John Bartholomew & Co., n.d. c. 1900. £75

A large coloured map, approx. 30 x 23”, laid down on linen and folding into original cloth boards with paper label; minor creasing to map, browning to a few folds on verso, slight splitting to paper endpaper inside boards, else in very good condition. A colour-coded map of the mountains of mainland Scotland and the Hebrides.

13. Bauer, Paul. ‘The Fight for Kangchenjunga, 1929.’ Reprinted from ‘The Alpine Journal,’ November, 1930. London: Spottiswoode, Ballantyne & Co. Ltd., 1930. £50

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 185-201; folding frontis. and 5 other illusts.; very good in the original printed wrappers, slightly creased. This early offprinted version of Bauer’s report on the 1929 German attempt on Kangchenjunga was later incorporated into his book Himalayan Campaign (1937).

14. [Bellows, John Earnshaw.] John Bellows 1831-1931. A Biographical Sketch and Tribute. Printed for Private Circulation, 1931. £45 First edition. 8vo. pp. 31; 3 ports.; minor foxing, else very good in the original cloth-backed papered boards, with, loosely inserted, an offprint of Bellows’ article ‘A Russian Railway Journey in Winter’, 8pp., reprinted from The Friend.

A centenary tribute to the Gloucester printer, traveller, and Quaker. Bellows (1831-1902) travelled extensively, and the present book contains pages that describe his journey, with Joseph Neave, to the Caucasus mountains in the 1890s. The loosely inserted pamphlet relates Bellows’ journey via Moscow to the Sea of Azof and the Caucasus.

15. Benson, C. E. Crag and Hound in Lakeland. London: Hurst and Blackett, 1902. £95 First edition. 8vo. pp. xvi, 313, 6 (ad.); plates from photos. by G. P. Abraham and Sons, Keswick; near-fine in the original cloth, gilt. Neate B87. Contains chapters on both climbing and fox-hunting.

16. Beshev, Sandyu. Bulgarski Vurkhove v Andite [Bulgarian Peaks in the Andes]. Sofia: Meditsina i Fizkultura, 1987. £20

First edition. 8vo. pp. 88; illusts., sketch map; very good in the original pictorial wrappers. An overview of Bulgarian climbing in the Andes, with text in Bulgarian.

17. Bird, Isabella. A Lady’s Life in the Rocky Mountains. London: John Murray, 1879. £475

First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 296, 32 (pubs. ads.); frontis. and 6 other plates; a few leaves carelessly opened, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, slightly darkened on spine, expertly restored to head of spine. A presentation copy, inscribed on the half-title “To the “Pro” and Mrs. Blackie with the affectionate regards and good wishes of the author, Christmas Day, 1879”. Theakstone p. 36. Bird’s account of her travels through the Rocky Mountains is based on letters she sent home to her sister. It includes her description of an ascent of Long’s Peak (14,700ft) with ‘Mountain Jim’, her companion on mountain excursions.

18. Bischoff, Elise. Three Days at Thoune. London: London Literary Society, [1887]. £95

First and only edition. 8vo. pp. viii, 143; frontis.; some browning at front and rear, good in the original red cloth, gilt, darkened on spine, cloth soiled. Wäber II.39; Graham Brown & Lloyd Collections t074; not in Neate or Perret. An account of the author’s stay, with details of her walks, visits to churches and other sites of interest, and descriptions of the mountains in the Bernese Oberland.

19. Bonatti, Walter. On the Heights. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1964. £75

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 248; photo. illusts.; VG in original cloth, in d.-w., which is a little rubbed and slightly faded on spine. Neate B126; Yakushi B452d; Perret 0541. Bonatti ranks among the foremost climbers of his generation. The present autobiography describes his experiences on the first ascent of K2, Gasherbrum IV, and of climbs in the Alps (notably his solo ascent of the south-west pillar of the Dru), and in South America.

23 20, 21, 22 & 23 23. Bonington, Chris & Charles Clarke. Everest. The Unclimbed Ridge. London: Hodder & Stoughton, [1983]. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. 132; map endpapers, coloured illustrations, sketch maps, etc.; previous owner’s inscription to flyleaf rector, else a very good copy in the original cloth in d.-w., which is slightly faded to spine. Signed to the title-page by Chris Bonington and Charles Clarke. Neate B131; Yakushi B467; Perret 0574; S & B B28. An account of the 1982 attempt on the NE ridge, during which Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker were lost crossing the Pinnacles

24. [Bonney, Thomas George.] Report of the Meeting held for the Presentation to Professor Bonney … of his Portrait, Presented by Former Pupils. London: Warren Hall & Lovitt, n.d. [1896]. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 16; very good in the original printed wrappers, institutional inkstamp to upper wrapper. The portrait of Bonney by Trevor Haddon, which now hangs in University College, London, was commissioned by his students from that institution and by those of Cambridge. The text offers several testimonials given at the presentation of the portrait to Bonney in the Botanical Theatre of University College.

25. [Bonney, Thomas George.] ‘Eminent Living Geologists: Professor T. G. Bonney, D.Sc., LL.D., F.R.S.’ Extracted from The Geological Magazine, N.S., Decade IV, Vol. VIII, pp. 385-400, September, 1901. £50

First separate edition. 8vo. port. frontis.; good in the original printed wrappers, which have been repaired along the spine, institutional inkstamps to front wrapper and prelims. A presentation copy inscribed “from T. G. Bonney”. This anonymous appreciation of the geologist and mountaineer Bonney includes a useful bibliography, and was presented by Bonney himself.

20. Bonington, Chris. Annapurna South Face. London: Cassell, 1971. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. x, 334; photo. illusts., 2 sketch maps, one folding photographic plate of route; VG in the original cloth, which is a little sunned on spine (as often), in d.-w. Neate B127; Yakushi B460a; Perret 0564. Bonington’s own account of the successful ascent of Annapurna - first climbed by Maurice Herzog in 1950 - via the treacherous South Face.

21. Bonington, Chris. Everest South West Face. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1973]. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 352; illusts.; very good in original rexine, in d.-w. which is slightly faded on spine, frayed to foot of spine. Neate B129; Yakushi B462a; Perret 0565; S & B B25. The leader’s account of the 1972 attempt on Everest via the South West Face. Bonington later led the successful 1975 expedition.

22. Bonington, Chris. Everest the Hard Way. London: Hodder & Stoughton, [1976]. £75

First edition. Small 4to. pp. 239; numerous coloured photo. illusts, sketch maps; near-fine in the original cloth, d.-w. Signed to title by Bonington. Neate B130; Yakushi B464a; Perret 0568; S & B B26. The leader’s account of the 1975 Everest expedition, when Doug Scott and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to reach the summit, via the south west face.

26. [Bonney, Thomas George.] [W. W. Watts.] ‘Obituary Notice of Thomas George Bonney. (With Portrait.) 1833-1923.’ [Reprinted] From the “Proceedings of the Royal Society”, 1926. £10

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. xvii-xxvii; port. frontis.; very good in the original printed wrappers, institutional inkstamp to upper wrapper. An obituary of the geologist, climber, and one-time president of the Alpine Club. The portrait reproduces the painting of Bonney by Trevor Haddon (1895).

27. Bordet, Pierre et Michel Latreille. ‘La Géologie de l’Himalaya de l’Arun.’ Offprint from Bulletin de la Société geologique de France, 1955, Tome V, pp. 529-542. £75

First separate edition. 8vo. sketch maps to text; unopened in the original printed wrappers, which are browned to margins, contained as issued with two large folding coloured maps that accompany the offprint in a printed envelope. Issued as part of the Expéditions Françaises a l’HImalaya 1954-1955. The authors joined two expeditions to the Arun and Everest regions of the Himalaya, which had both scientific and mountaineering aims. The latter culminated in the first ascent of Makalu by a French team in 1955. The scientific results from the expedition were published in a series of articles and monographs, and the present offprint is of interest for the two accompanying large geological maps, which show the Arun/Everest regions and the Everest/Makalu regions.

28 28. Bourdillon, Jennifer. Visit to the Sherpas. London: Collins, 1956. £50

First edition. 8vo. Original cloth in wrapper; pp. 256; 12 photographic illustrations; tear to lower wrapper, spotting to fore-edge, a very good copy. Signed by the author to the title-page. Yakushi B246a. Jennifer Bourdillon travelled with her husband Tom when he joined the 1952 expedition to Cho Oyu with Charles Evans & Eric Shipton. She remained alone in Kathmandu among the Sherpas - the first western woman to do so. This is her account of that stay

35. Canadian Pacific Railway Company. The Challenge of the Mountains. The Canadian Pacific Railway Company, 1909. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. 80; photo. illusts., one folding map; very good in original pictorial wrappers, slightly soiled, chipped at extremities of spine. This 1909 version of the previous item was completely rewritten and contains different photographic illustrations to the previous versions. The booklet has a chapter on the Canadian Alpine Club.

29. Bridge, L. D. Safe Climbing. Wellington, N.Z.: Tararua Tramping Club (Inc.), 1947. £15

First edition. Small 8vo. pp. 32; illusts.; very good in the original wrappers. Neate B160.

30. Brown, T. Graham. ‘Masherbrum, 1938.’ Reprinted from The Geographical Journal, vol. XCV, no. 2, February 1940. £35

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 81-95; 2 sketch maps, 6 photo. illusts.; very good in the original printed wrappers, RGS accession no. to upper cover, deaccession stamp inside upper cover. An early attempt, during which Jack Harrison and Robin Hodgkin reached 25,000ft.

31. Brown, T. Graham. Brenva. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., [1944]. £45

First edition. 8vo. pp. xv, 228; b&w photo. illusts., sketch map; slight agetoning, good in original cloth, t.e.g., in d.-w. which is somewhat frayed and soiled. Neate B188; Perret 0732. The author’s account of the three new routes on the Brenva face of Mont Blanc.

32. Bruce, Brig.-General the Hon. C. G. ‘Mount Everest’ (Reprinted from ‘The Geographical Journal’ for January 1921). £100

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 21; 1 sketch map, 3 photo. illusts.; very good in original printed wrappers, slightly creased, lightly browned to extremities. Bruce’s lecture, read at the RGS on the 8th November, 1920, calls for an expedition to Everest. The 1921 reconnaissance took place in the following year.

30, 32, 39, 44, 198 & 206

33. [Canada.] The National Parks of Canada. A brief description of their Scenic and Recreational Attractions. National Parks, Bureau, [1938]. £15

Second edition. 8vo. pp. 64; sketch map, one extending map, photo. illusts.; fine in the original printed wrappers. A guide to 20 national parks, with brief details of mountaineering in the Selkirk Range (Glacier National Park)

34. Canadian Pacific Railway Company. The Challenge of the Mountains. “The Canadian Rockies - The Playground of America.” The Canadian Pacific Railway Company, n.d. c. 1900s. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. 48; photo. illusts., one folding map; good in the original pictorial wrappers, slightly creased and soiled. This guide to mountaineering in Canada was one of several issued by CPR in the years 1904, 1905, 1906 and 1909, all with the same title but with different covers. This version contains photographic illustrations using the “Lumiere Process of Direct Colour Photography”. The booklet quotes from various authorities, including Edward Whymper, who had visited the Rockies in 1900 at the invitation of CPR.

36. Climbers’ Club. Helyg Diamond Jubilee Reunion Dinner. Saturday June 8th 1985 Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel. Joseph Ward, Dewsbury, [1985]. £350 A keepsake printed on stiff card for the Dinner, approx. 11.75 x 5” (30 x 13cm.), 4pp., photo. illust. to p. 2, bumped to extrems., signed to the final page by all 47 members of the Club present at the Dinner, and with a letter from Derek Walker on Club letterhead presenting the item to Michael Ward, contained in original addressed envelope. A unique record of the Climbers’ Club’s Diamond Jubilee, sent by the Club President to Michael Ward, who had been unable to attend due to his participation in the Tibet Geo-Traverse expedition. The signatures include prominent members of the British climbing community, such as Noel Odell, Herbert Carr, Charles Evans, Mike Westmacott, Chris Bonington, and Don Whillans. Walker mentions in his covering letter that this is one of only four copies signed by all attendees - “Don Whillans signed none on the evening, and Guy Kirkus and Hugh Banner only some, but I managed to get the four signed later”. Walker continues “Tragic news about Don” - a reference to Whillans’ death on August 5th, ten days before the date of the letter; “He was with us in the Dolomites three weeks ago and waved off Hugh and I with his customary good advice as we set off for our climb on the Civetta. He had already departed for Chamonix when we got off the hill, and died a week before I returned to England. The climbing scene will not be the same without him.”

40 37

37. Collie, J. Norman. ‘Exploration and Climbing in the Canadian Rocky Mountains.’ An offprint from the Royal Institution of Great Britain, Weekly Evening Meeting, Friday, May 9, 1902. £25 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 5; very good in self-wrappers, stapled as issued. A brief account of Collie’s climbs in 1897.

38. Conefrey, Mick. Everest 1953. The Epic Story of the First Ascent. Oxford: Oneworld, [2012]. £20

First edition. 8vo. pp. xiv, 322; illusts.; original cloth in d.j., new. Signed by the author to the title-page. The first book-length account of the successful first ascent of Everest since John Hunt’s The Ascent of Everest (1954).

39. Conway, Martin. ‘Explorations in the Bolivian Andes.’ From ‘The Geographical Journal’ for July, 1899. £50

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 21; photo. illusts., folding map; good in the original printed wrappers, which are browned to margins. Martin Conway visited the Cordillera Real in Bolivia in 1898, and read this paper in 1899. He returned the following year, and published his account of Andean climbing - The Bolivian Andes - in 1901.

40. Coolidge, W. A. B. La Catena della Levanna (Alpi Graie Centrali). Torino: Club Alpino Italiano, 1901. £45

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. [ii], 44, (1); three plates, one plan, marginal tears to prelims., good in the original printed wrappers, inscribed to front blank “Hommage de l’auteur”. Provenance: From the library of Guido Rey, with a small annotation in his hand to p. 31. An offprint from the Bulletino del Club Alpino Italiano, inscribed by Coolidge to the Alpinist and photographer Guido Rey.

41. Coolidge, W. A. B. ‘La Chaîne du Mont Blanc à travers les siècles (Suite et fin)’ and ‘Le Col du Tour dans l’histoire’. Offprints of L’Annuaire du Club Alpin Suisse, 1906. £25

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. [243]-274 & [17]-20; two coloured plates to first article; very good in the original plain wrappers, marginal browning and slightly chipped, inscribed to front wrapper “Hommage de l’auteur”. Provenance: From the library of Guido Rey, with a small pencilled note in his hand to p. 20 of the second article. The second part of an article, the first of which appeared in the same journal in the previous year.

42. Coolidge, W. A. B. Il Gruppo del Gran Paradiso. La topografia storica e cartografica e la storia descrittiva ed alpina sino al 1860; Le carte speciali edite dopo la Carta Sarda del 1856-58. Torino: Club Alpino Italiano, 1909. £50 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 72; 2 illusts.; very good in the original plain wrappers, marginal browning and slightly chipped, inscribed to front wrapper “Hommage de l’auteur”. Provenance: From the library of Guido Rey, without signs of provenance.

43. Coolidge, W. A. B. Walks and Excursions in the Valley of Grindelwald. Grindelwald: Fritz Bernet, 1925. £35

Second edition. 8vo. pp. 64; illusts., folding map at rear; minor creasing to corners, else good in the original printed wrappers, staples slightly rusted. Neate C130; Perret 1100; Moss et al. AL037a. Coolidge’s guide first appeared in 1900, as a “supplement to the ordinary Swiss Guidebooks”. French, German, and Italian editions were also published.

44. Crombie, T. ‘Two Climbing Expeditions in the Central Andes.’ Reprinted from The Geographical Journal, vol. CVII, nos. 5 and 6, May-June 1946. £15 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. [225]-230; 1 sketch map, 8 photo. illusts.; very good in the original printed wrappers, RGS accession no. to upper cover, deaccession stamp inside upper cover. An ascent of Cerro Tolosa with A. Emmons, and details of the Link expedition to Aconcagua.

45. [Cuchetet, Charles.] Souvenirs d’une Promenade en Suisse, pendant l’Année 1827; Recueillis pour ses Amis. Paris: E. Duverger, 1828. £1,250 First and only edition, one of 30 copies inscribed by the author to the limitation leaf. 8vo. pp. [iv], 247; very occasional spotting, else very good in contemporary quarter calf, gilt, small puncture hole at foot of spine but a handsome copy. Perret 1168 (”Très rare”); not in Wäber or other bibliographies. The author travelled from Paris to spend the summer of 1827 in Switzerland. This journal of his travels records his impressions of the various places he visited, including Basle, Zurich, the Righi, Lucerne, the Grimsel, the Jungfrau, Berne, and elsewhere. Chapters 31-3 relate his visit to Chamonix, and ascent to the Mer de glace and the glacier des Bossons. The book was printed up for friends, in a limited edition of thirty copies only, and this copy was presented by Cuchetet on the limitation leaf.

46. Danforth, William H. Random Ramblings in India. Letters written to the Purina family. Privately printed, [1928]. £35

First edition. 8vo. pp. 151; illusts., one sketch map; browning to endpapers, else very good in the original green straight-grained limp cloth, lettered to upper cover, lettering a little indistinct. The author travelled from France by ship to Bombay, then Bhopal, Agra, Delhi, proceeding to the Khyber Pass and Kashmir, on to Darjeeling with a view of “The Highest Mountain Peaks in the World”, returning to Benares, and finally to a meeting with Gandhi.

47. Denman, Earl. Alone to Everest. London: Collins, 1954.

£25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 256pp.; photo. illusts, 4 sketch maps; foxing to endpapers and edge of text block, else VG in the original cloth, d.-w., which is slightly chipped and soiled. Neate D17; Yakushi D153a; Perret 1284; S & B D05. The story of Denman’s ascents of the eight principal summits of the Virunga mountains in the Belgian Congo, followed by his remarkable 1947 journey with Tenzing through Sikkim and Tibet to Everest, where they reached a height of 23,500 feet before bad weather turned them back.

48. Dent, Clinton T. Four volumes from the personal library of Clinton Dent, comprising two bound volumes of pamphlets, an album containing two posters for lectures by Dent, newspaper cuttings, programmes, and a copy of Martin Conway’s The Alps from End to End (first edition). £1,500

Pamphlets: Two volumes numbered VI and VIII to the spines, containing 12 offprints, 13 booklets and 6 extracts (thirty-one items in all), several with plates or maps, occasional browning, generally in good order, bound for the most part with the original wrappers in contemporary buckram with contrasting lettering pieces, bookplate of Dent at front of each volume. Album: 140pp., comprising numerous newspaper cuttings, 2 posters for lectures by Dent on mountaineering, and 6 programmes for theatrical or musical evenings, bound in contemporary half morocco, rubbed, Dent’s bookplate at front. Conway, William Martin. The Alps from End to End. Westminster: Archibald Constable, 1895. First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 403; frontis. and numerous plates after originals by A. D. M’Cormick; minor age-toning, else good in the original buckram-backed cloth, gilt, t.e.g, minor wear to head of spine and to rear board, Dent’s bookplate at front. Clinton Thomas Dent (1850-1912) made important ascents in the Alps and the Caucasus during the period known as the silver age of Alpinism. He made the first ascent of the Aiguille du Dru in 1878, and eight years later climbed Gestola in the Caucasus with W. F. Donkin. He was president of the Alpine Club from 1886 to 1889, and often lectured on mountaineering and related themes. He also followed a career in medicine, and became the Senior Surgeon at St. George’s Hospital, and Chief Surgeon to the Metropolitan Police. The present four volumes from Dent’s library contain materials relating to his many interests. The bound volumes of pamphlets include offprints and booklets presented to Dent by prominent mountaineers of the day: Vittorio Sella, Douglas Freshfield, Arthur Harper (inscribed by Harper). Also present are two catalogues of mountain paintings for exhibitions at London galleries, one with a preface by Dent and Freshfield, and a history of the Caucasus Museum printed in German in Tiflis with a

covering letter from the author to Dent. Other content relates to Dent’s career as surgeon, including addresses given at St. George’s Hospital , or papers such as Robert Bowles’s Sunburn on the Alps (1890). The extracts mostly offer reviews or articles by Dent himself, including his essay ‘Can Mount Everest be Ascended?’, and a book review of Conway’s The Alps from End to End. The accompanying album, presumably compiled by Dent himself, contains numerous newspaper cuttings on miscellaneous subjects, including mountaineering, the Boat race, a letter from Charles L. Dodgson (Lewis Carroll), the British Association, politics, medicine, the British North Borneo Company (with a copy of their bookplate pasted in; a relative, Alfred Dent, was a director), obituaries of e.g. Darwin, and much else; several of the items were written by Dent. The programmes contain details of theatrical and musical performances that include members of the Dent family, and the two posters advertise Dent’s lectures, one from 1872. A full list of contents is available on request.

50. Desmaison, René. Total Alpinism. London: Granada, [1982]. £50

First English edition. 8vo. pp. [vi], 202; photo. illusts.; near-fine in original cloth, d.-w. Neate D22; Perret 1302 & 1303. Desmaison’s achievements in the Alps were recorded in his books La montagne à mains nues (1971) and 342 heures dans les Grandes Jorasses (1973), both of which form the basis for this English edition.

51. Donoughue, Carol, ed. Everest (Jackdaw No. 128). Jackdaw Publications Ltd., [1975]. £50

A gatefold brochure (approx. 33 x 21cm), printed to both sides and containing loosely inserted 10 documents (some folded), all contained in the original plastic wallet. S & B D20. This educational pack was issued to illustrate the history of climbing on Everest, with emphasis on the 1953 first ascent and the then forthcoming 1975 British Everest Expedition. It contains reproductions of relevant documents, including a passport issued on behalf of the Dalai Lama for the 1921 expedition, the last note written by Mallory, pages from John Hunt’s diary, and an equipment list for the 1975 expedition.

52. Duparc, Louis & Ludovic Mrazec. Recherches géologiques et pétrographiques sur le Massif du Mont-Blanc. Genève: Georg & Cie; Paris: G. Fischbacher, 1898. £95

First edition. 4to. pp. [ii], 227; 16 plates of photo. illusts., 6 plates of geological specimens, two folding coloured lithographs of profiles; profiles laid down on linen, good in the contemporary half calf with original printed upper wrapper retained, ex-lib. Geological Society with inkstamp to prelims. and to verso of each plate. A presentation copy, inscribed by both authors to upper wrapper. A geological study of the chain of Mont Blanc, based on the authors’ researches over seven years. The work is divided into several sections, including the topography of Mont Blanc, discussion of the various rock types, and the tectonic structure of the range.

53. Dyhrenfurth, Günter O. To the Third Pole. The History of the High Himalaya. London: Werner Laurie, [1955]. £35

First English edition. Square 8vo. pp. xxxix, 233; photo. illusts., sketch maps to text; free endpapers partially browned, else VG in the original cloth, in d.-w., which is slightly chipped Neate D64; Yakushi D387b; Perret 1473. History of attempts on the Himalayan peaks written by the German-Swiss leader of the 1930 International Karakoram expedition.

52 49. [Dent, Clinton T.] R. A. Institution. A Lecture will be delivered at 5 p.m. on Thursday, 25th February, 1909, on The Art of Travel in Mountainous Countries, (Illustrated by Lantern Slides). By Clinton T. Dent, Esq., F.R.C.S. N.p. [?Woolwich], [1909]. £125 A printed notice, approx. 37 x 28cm., printed to one side only, Royal Coat of Arms printed at head with text below; creased where sometime folded, adhesion marks to verso where affixed, else in good condition. This notice advertises a lantern slide lecture given by Dent at the Royal Artillery Institution in 1909.

54 55 54. Dyhrenfurth, Günter O. ‘Narrow Escapes.’ Reprinted from The Alpine Journal vol. LXVI, May 1961, no. 302. £12

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 58-64; very good in self-wrappers, slightly creased. Dyhrenfurth, the leader of several Himalayan expedition, wrote these recollections of ‘close shaves’ on the Kesch Nadel, the Gross Fermedaturm (Dolomites), the Drusenfluh, and Jongsong Peak (1930).

55. [Dyhrenfurth, Hettie.] James B. Pond present Hettie Dyhrenfurth of the International Himalayan-Expedition. N.p. ?NY, n.d. c. 1930s. £175 A publicity brochure, 4to. pp. 4; front cover with photo. illust. of the an Expedition camp, 6 further photo. illusts. inc. a port. of Hettie Dyhrenfurth, text to central pages relating details of the expedition, advert. in German to final page for books about the expedition; horizontally creased with

56 chipping to outer margins at crease, else good in the original self-wrappers. Hettie Dyhrenfurth accompanied her husband Günter on his 1930 expedition to Kangchenjunga. She was the only woman present, and in the following year published her account of it (Memsahb im Himalaya). The present publicity brochure was printed for the lecture promoter James B. Pond. It contains details of the expedition, with plaudits for Hettie Dyrenfurth on the final leaf.

56. Dyhrenfurth, Norman. ‘Americans on Everest.’ A feature article in Summit, March, 1964. £25

First edition. Slim 4to. pp. 32 [article at pp. 2-28]; photo. illusts.; very good in the original black printed wrappers, bumped to foot of spine. Not in S & B. This entire issue of Summit is devoted entirely to Dyhrenfurth’s article, with reproductions of photographs by him, Willi Unsoeld, Jim Whittaker, and other expedition members.

57. Eckenstein, Oscar. The Karakorams and Kashmir. An Account of a Journey. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1896. £2,750

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvi, 253; some spotting, slightly soiled on spine, foxing to endpapers, small tear to foot of rear fixed pastedown, previous owners’ bookplates to front endpapers, else a very good copy in the original red cloth, gilt, wood-engraved plate to upper cover, somewhat soiled. Neate E07; Yakushi E10; Perret 1477 (“Ouvrage rare et très recherché”). Eckenstein joined Conway’s expedition to the Karakoram in 1892, together with C. G. Bruce (later to lead the 1922 Everest expedition), Mattias Zurbriggen, the artist A. D. McCormick and J. H. Roudebush. Due to disagreements, Eckenstein left the expedition before it had reached its end. The present work details his experiences during the expedition, from April to August. Conway published his own account (Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalayas), but Eckenstein’s work is scarcer by far.

58. [Edwards, John Menlove.] Geoffrey Sutton and Wilfrid Noyce, eds. Samson. The Life and Writings of Menlove Edwards. [Privately printed] [Stockport: Cloister Press, 1961]. £95

First edition. 8vo. pp. [iv], v, 122; 12 photo. illusts.; age-toning to fore-edges of illusts., else very clean in the original cloth, gilt, slightly rubbed and marked, Mike Banks’s copy with his inkstamp (M.E.B. Banks) to flyleaf. Neate S200. Menlove Edwards played an important role in the development of rock-climbing in the 1930s and 1940s, and his experiences moved him to write poems and short prose pieces as their expression. Among those he influenced were Wilfrid Noyce, who with his co-author Sutton provides a biographical memoir of Menlove Edwards alongside selections of his writings.

59. Engel, Claire Eliane. They Came to the Hills. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd., [1952]. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 275; photo. illusts; minor spotting, else VG in original cloth, in d.-w. which is a little frayed to extrems. Neate E20; Perret 1506. Biographies of some of the major Alpinists of the 19th and early 20th centuries, including Forbes, Tyndall, Leslie Stephen, Wills, Moore, Whymper, the Walkers, Mummery, Freshfield, Coolidge, George Mallory, and others.

60. Evans, Charles. Eye on Everest. A Sketch book from the Great Everest Expedition. London: Dennis Dobson, [1955]. £75

First edition. 4to. pp. 123; illusts. from the author’s sketches throughout; near-fine in original cloth, d.-w., which has a few closed tears, Neate E26; Yakushi E114; Perret 1534; S & B E07. Evans’ humorous sketchbook of the 1953 Everest expedition offers a lighter view of the undertaking.

60 61. [Everest 1922.] Six Postcards of the Mount Everest Expedition. Sold at the Presentation of the Kinematograph Film Climbing Mount Everest, first shown at the Philharmonic Hall, London. Copyright of the Mount Everest Commmitte, n.d. c. 1923. £375

A printed envelope containing a complete set of six postcards, the cards with gloss b&w photo. illusts showing scenes from the 1922 Everest expedition, postally unused, minor oxidisation to the margins of a couple of cards. Singer & Gould II.2 (pp. 6-7 & 8). The Everest expedition of 1922, led by Bruce and including Mallory, Noel, Finch, Longstaff, was promoted once it had returned by John Noel, the expedition photographer and cinematographer. The film of the expedition, ‘Climbing Mount Everest’, was shown in London and at other venues, and postcards showing scenes from the expedition were sold to raise funds for a future return to Everest. The present complete set shows the members of the expedition, climbers and camps at high altitude, and the monastery at Rongbuk and its Lama. The set is still contained in its original envelope, few of which survive due to their flimsy nature.

62. [Everest 1924.] Mount Everest. John Player and Sons, [n.d. c. 1924].

£250

A complete series of 20 cigarette cards, commemorating the 1924 Everest expedition in which Mallory and Irvine died, each card with a photographic image by J. B. L. Noel (two by T. Howard Somervell), captioned to foot of image, each with descriptive text to verso, loose as issued. Singer & Gould p. 23. This attractive series of cigarette cards shows some of the stunning images recorded by Noel and Somervell during the 1924 Everest expedition. Mallory and Irvine appear alongside their fellow climbers in one of the portraits, while others show climbing parties, mountain features, camps and the like. Some of the images appear in the official Everest accounts, but others were not otherwise published in the existing literature.

63. [Everest 1924.] [Irvine, Andrew Comyn, 1902-1924.] Merton College, June 1923. A photograph of the College students by Soame, Oxford. £750

A large gelatin silver print, approx. 14 x 11” (37 x 29 cm.), mounted as issued on card with the photographer’s printed details at foot, calligraphed title of college above and the college crest below flanked by the date; the image slightly oxidised and faded, but still clear, contained in the original glazed frame, pencilled name of “Mrs Taylor” to back of frame with other apparently unrelated notes. A fine image of the Merton College students in June 1923, taken on the steps leading in to the hall. At centre front sits Andrew Irvine, his prominent position - some 80 or so students feature in the photograph - perhaps due to the fame he had won as a member of that year’s Oxford boat race team, which had beaten Cambridge in March. Though we have been unable to identify them, the group portrait probably also features George Binney and other members of the 1923 Merton College Arctic Expedition, the expedition to Spitsbergen in which Irvine participated in July and August of 1923.

64. [Everest 1924.] [Irvine, Andrew Comyn, 1902-1924.] ‘O.U.B.C. VIII 1922.’ A postcard signed by the Oxford Board Race Eight, including Andrew Irvine. £450 A small postcard, approx. 4 1/2 x 3 1/2” (113 x 89mm), captioned to one side and signed beneath by Irvine and his fellow boat crew, the cox, and the coach, postally used, a little creased, with an accompanying card identifying the signatures. Irvine’s interests included not only mountaineering, but also other sports, including rowing. He was a member of the Oxford crew for the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race in 1922, and this card was sent as a souvenir of that occasion, signed by all eight members of the crew, their coach, and the cox.

65 65. [Everest 1936.] A scrapbook of newspaper cuttings for the Everest expedition of 1936, compiled by Lawrence W. Swan. £25

8vo. 25pp. of newspaper cuttings from contemporary British newspapers, pasted or sellotaped into the album, some browning, ownership inscription of Larry W. Swan Apr. 1944 to first leaf, original cloth, captioned by hand to spine “Everest in Retrospect 1936 Ruttledge”, minor wear. Larry W. Swan was a member of the 1954 American expedition to Makalu, and returned to the Himalayas in 1960 with the Silver Hut Expedition. This is his collection of texts and pictures relating to the unsuccessful 1936 Everest expedition led by Ruttledge.

66. [Everest 1951.] The Times. Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition 1951 Special Supplement. London: The Times Publishing Company, December 1951. £95

69. [Everest 1953.] Ascent of Everest 1953. N.p., n.d. [1953].

£175

First edition. 4to. pp. [20, including wrappers]; 10 photo. illusts., route map inside front wrapper; some time folded vertically, else good in the original pictorial wrappers, small tear to lower margin of rear wrapper. Signed to front wrapper by E. P. Hillary (a little faint). Not in the usual bibliographies. This programme for the Gala Premier Lecture held at Royal Festival Hall on Tuesday 15th September 1953, at 8pm, contains a foreword by Prince Philip, an introduction by the Presidents of the Alpine Club and the R.G.S., and text by Wilfrid Noyce. This copy is signed to the upper cover by Hillary, who with Tenzing made the first ascent.

First edition. Large 4to. pp. 16; 16 photo. illusts., 2 sketch maps; creased where sometime folded, slightly worn on fold across front page, small closed tear to front page, minor fraying to spine, very good in original selfwrappers, previous owner’s details in ink to front page. S & B p. 117; not in other bibliographies. A special supplement to The Times newspaper with text largely by Shipton on the 1951 Reconnaissance.

67. [Everest 1953.] The Times. The First Ascent of Mount Everest Supplement. London: The Times Publishing Company, July 1953. £75

First edition. Large 4to. pp. 32; 37 photo. illusts., 3 sketch maps; slight agetoning, minor fraying to spine, good in original self-wrappers, horizontal crease with slight wear to front wrapper where sometime folded. S & B p. 117; not in other bibliographies. A special supplement to The Times newspaper, with contributions by Hunt, Hillary, and The Times Special Correspondent i.e. James Morris. The rear cover advertises the book of the expedition as John Hunt’s The Conquest of Everest; in the event, this was the book’s US title, the English version appearing as The Ascent of Everest.

68. [Everest 1953.] The Times. Everest Colour Supplement 1953. London: The Times Publishing Company, September 1953. £25

First edition. Large 4to. pp. [22]; 22 coloured and 27 b & w photo. illusts., 1 sketch map; some creasing, good in the original coloured wrappers, chipped to margins of wrappers. S & B p. 117; not in other bibliographies. A special supplement to The Times newspaper with text largely by the paper’s Special Correspondent, James Morris.

72. [Everest 1953.] 25th Anniversary of the First Ascent of Mount Everest May 29th 1978. £200

An official First Day of Issue cover, portrait of Tenzing in silver ink to front, Nepalese stamp of Everest with Kathmandu cancel, name of original recipient inked out and with typed notes at top and bottom of recto, some time signed by Tenzing at the top and by the leader of the expedition John Hunt below. Singer & Gould p. 64.148. This first day cover was issued without the signatures, but was later signed by both Tenzing and Hunt.

73. [Everest 1975.] British Everest Expedition 1975. Everest The Hard Way … First ascent of the South West Face. 40th Anniversary 2015. N.p. [?London], n.d. [2015]. £75 73

First edition. 4to. pp. 17; illustrated throughout, as new in original pictorial wrappers. Signed by ten members of the team: Chris Bonington, Doug Scott (summitter), Pertemba Sherpa (summitter), Mike Thompson, Paul Braithwaite, Charles Clarke, Ang Phurba, Mike Rhodes, Adrian Gordon (Camp manager), and Chris Ralling (BBC film team). The 40th anniversary of the first ascent of the South West Face of Everest in 1975 was celebrated in a lecture given at the RGS on the 24th September, 2015. The ten members of the expedition present on that occasion signed copies of the brochure.

74. [Everest 1982.] The British Mount Everest Expedition to China. [Hill and Knowlton Asia Ltd.], n.d. [1981]. £25

4to. pp. 8; photo. illusts., 3 sketch maps, 6 portrait photographs of the expedition members at rear; very good in the original pictorial card wrappers, minor crease to upper outer corner of rear wrapper. Not in the relevant bibliographies. A rare promotional brochure published for the expedition sponsors, Jardine, Matheson & Co., Ltd Hong Kong. Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman lost their lives on the expedition.

70. [Everest 1953.] The San Francisco Town Hall Forum, Inc. … have the extreme honor in presenting the Mount Everest Expedition Team headed by Sir Edmund Hillary Dr. Charles Evans Mr. George Lowe. N.p. [?San Francisco], n.d. [1954]. £75

4to. 8pp.; large insert advert. for unrelated event which has browned two pages of text, corner creases and one or two marginal tears. This is a programme for a small series of lectures in San Francisco, Sacramento and Pasadena, given in March 1954 by members of the Everest expedition. The moderator was James Morris.

71. [Everest 1953.] ‘From A “Kodachrome” Transparency’. Copyright Himalayan Committee, n.d. c. 1954. £125

6 coloured photographic cards, approx. 5 x 3 1/2”, printed to one side only, each uncaptioned but with copyright and process details above and below the image, in fine condition. This rare set of images from the 1953 Everest expedition remains something of an enigma. They show scenes during the approach to and ascent of Everest, including a view taken at altitude (though not from the summit), and are perhaps the work of Alf Gregory of George Lowe. The images may derive from the transparencies found in more recent times in the RGS archives, which were otherwise not reproduced at the time.

75. [Everest. China.] Scientific Report from the Mount Jolmo Lungma Scientific Expedition 1966-1968 [Translation from Chinese]. Peking, 1976. £75

4to. pp. [iv], ii, 112; photo. illusts. inc. one folding plate, maps and diags. to text; very good in the original printed wrappers with foldover edges. Not in the usual bibliographies, though cf. Neate C43, Yakushi (3rd ed.) C192 & S & B C15. This is a scientific report from the Chinese expedition to the Everest region from the years 1966-68. No English translation seems ever to have been made, though a companion volume - A Photographic Record of the Mount Jolmo Lungma Scientific Expedition (1966-1968) - did appear in English.

76 76. [Everest. China.] Mt. Jolmo Lungma - The World’s Highest Peak. [Hong Kong: Kong Hwa Publishers], n.d. c. 1975. £50

?First edition. 4to. pp. 32 [text in Chinese, cover title and captions also in English]; illustrated throughout, sketch maps; one lower outer corner torn without loss, else very good in original pictorial wrappers, creased to lower outer corners. Not in Yakushi or other bibliographies. A pictorial record of Chinese expeditions to Everest, from the 1960 ascent to the 1974 scientific expedition.

77. [Expedition card.] A postcard sent from the Austrian Expedition to Gasherbrum II. £95

A sepia photographic postcard, signed by 8 expedition members, one Pakistan stamp with cancel, slightly chipped else G. Singer & Gould 115.1. Fritz Moravec led a small-scale Austrian expedition that made the first ascent of Gasherbrum II in 1956, Moravec himself along with Joseph (Sepp) Larch and Hans Willenpart reaching the summit. This is one of the cards sent back with greetings from the expedition, signed by the three summitters and by Hans Ratay, Richard Reinagl, Heinrich Roiss, G. Weiler, and E. Gattinger.

78. [Expedition card.] Austrian Himalaya-Dhaulagiri Expedition 1959. £50

A b&w photographic postcard, signed by 8 expedition members, one India stamp with cancel, VG. Singer & Gould 122.3. Fritz Moravec led this expedition to Dhaulagiri via the north-east ridge, but failed to make the summit. The same route was used the following year by the successful Swiss/Austrian expedition under Eiselin. The front of this postcard shows a tent at Camp III of the 1958 Swiss Dhaulagiri Expedition. Moravec signed the card, along with Wilfried Wehrle, Othmar Kucera, Stefan Pauer, Karl Prein, Hans Ratay, Heinrich Roiss, and Erich Vanis.

79. [Expedition card.] Nuptse Himalayan Expedition 1961.

81. [Expedition card.] British Cerro Torre Expedition 1967/68. An expedition postcard, signed by Martin Boysen, Michael Burke, Peter Crew & Dougal Haston. £125 An official souvenir stamped at base camp, 15 Dec 1967, postally used with two Argentinean stamps and a further Buenos Aires postmark, corners slightly creased, otherwise in very good condition. A commemorative card marking the first British ascent of Cerro Torre, in the FitzRoy range of Patagonia, and the first via the south-east route.

82. [Expedition card.] Watkins Mountains Expedition, 1969. An expedition postcard, signed by leader Alastair Allan and five other members. £20

A gloss b & w photographic postcard, Greenland 50 øre stamp with two Scoresbysund cancels, expedition cachet, addressee’s label to verso. This Anglo-Danish expedition attempted an approach to the Watkins Mountains and an ascent of Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld, but poor weather compromised the attempt and the expedition returned only with great difficulty.

83. [Expedition card.] Manchester Nepalese Expedition 1970. £20

A b&w photographic postcard, signed by 6 expedition members, expedition cachet, one Nepal stamp with cancel, VG. Singer & Gould 142.18. This unsuccessful attempt to climb Nampa was led by John Allen, who signed this card, along with Rob Brighton, Yvonne Clarke, Arthur Clarke, Brian Cosby, and Bill Rowntree.

£75

A b&w photographic postcard, signed by 12 members of the expedition including a Sherpa thumbprint, two expedition cachets, five Nepal stamps with Kathmandu cancels, soiling to photograph, spotting to verso, else G. Singer & Gould 129.11. The Nuptse expedition included Chris Bonington, who reached the summit. The signatures include Joe Wamlsley, Les Brown, Bonington, Jim Lovelock, Trevor Jones, John Streetly, Smon Clark, Dennis Davis, Jim Swallow, Sherpa Tashi and two other Sherpas.

80. [Expedition card.] Deutsche Diamir Expedition 1962. An official expedition postcard, signed by all 8 members of the expedition and sent from base camp 1.6.62. £150

A gloss b&w photographic postcard, signed to verso and with the expedition inkstamp at foot, postally used with two Pakistan stamps cancelled in Rawalpindi 10 Jun 62, slightly rubbed else in very good condition. Singer & Gould p. 132. Nanga Parbat was first climbed via the Rakhiot face in 1953 by Hermann Buhl on an expedition led by Karl-Maria Herrligkoffer. In 1961 Herrligkoffer returned for an attempt via the Diamir face, and located a route which was used successfully the following year, when Toni Kinshofer, Anderl Mannhardt and Siegi Löw reached the summit. This expedition card carries the signatures of all three summitters, as well as those of Herrligkoffer, Michl Anderl, Manfred Sturm, Hubert Schmidbauer, and Rudl Marek; it also bears the thumb-print of the sirdar.

84. [Expedition card.] Annapurna South Face Expedition 1970. £350

85. [Expedition card.] Annapurna South Face Expedition 1970. £350

86. [Expedition card. Everest 1978.] An official expedition postcard, signed by Peter Habeler, Reinhold Messner, and nine expedition members. £250

87. [Expedition Cover.] First Soviet Everest Expedition ‘82.

A b&w photographic postcard, signed by 10 expedition members, “Annapurna South Face Expedition Base Camp” cachet in red, one Nepal stamp (without cancel), VG. Singer & Gould 141.3. The successful ascent of Annapurna via the south face was made by Haston and Whillans, but marred by the death of Ian Clough. The cards were signed over the course of the expedition, and this example is signed by Don Whillans, Dougal Haston, Nick Estcourt, Mick Burke, Martin Boysen, Chris Bonington, Mike Thompson, Kelvin Kent, Tom Frost and Ian Clough.

A coloured photographic postcard of Everest, with surrounding portraits of the eleven expedition members and captioned ‘Everest ‘78 Oesterreichischer Alpenverein’, signed to the verso and with a preprinted address label, Nepal R 1.25 stamp with very indistinct cancel; small pen marks to three of the portraits, else very good. The Austrian Alpine Club Everest expedition of 1978 resulted in the first ascent of the mountain without oxygen, by Habeler and Messner.

A b&w photographic postcard, signed by 10 expedition members, “Annapurna South Face Expedition Base Camp” cachet in blue, one Nepal stamp with cancel, VG. Singer & Gould 141.3.A second copy of the preceding card, this signed by Don Whillans, Dougal Haston, Nick Estcourt, Mick Burke, Martin Boysen, Chris Bonington, Mike Thompson, Kelvin Kent, Tom Frost and Dave Lambert.

£75

An expedition cover, with stylised image of Everest to recto, expedition cachet, signed by 10 expedition members inc. leader E. Tamm, Serdei Barshov and other summitters, Nepal stamp with cancel, Nepal Philatelic Society insert with details of the expedition and the cover, VG. Singer & Gould p. 77. The first Soviet ascent of Everest was made on May 4th 1982 by Serdei Barshov and Mikhail Turkevich, and six further members of the expedition made the ascent over the next three days.

88. Farquhar, Francis P. ‘The Literature of Mountaineering.’ Reprinted from California Library Association Year Book. N.p., n.d. c. 1936. £25 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 112-123; good in the original printed wrappers which are somewhat browned. Farquhar’s overview of the subject was later expanded in an article for Appalachia (1939).

89. Fellowes, Air-Commodore P.F.M., et al. First Over Everest. The Houston-Mount Everest Expedition 1933. London: John Lane, [1933]. £175

First edition. 8vo. pp. xix, 279; port. frontis. of Lady Houston, 64 photo. illusts. including “An Anaglyph from Vertical Photographs Taken Over Everest. Made to Appear in Stereoscopic Relief” (with accompanying 3-D spectacles in pocket at rear), 3 double-page photo. panoramas, maps inc. 2 folding, one folding table; very good in the navy cloth, lettered in red, in original d.-w., which is worn with some loss to head of spine. Neate F17; Yakushi F40a; Perret 1604; S & B F08. The first, and successful, flight over Everest using two Westland P.V. 3 aircraft. The superb images were later to provide information for the successful southern approach to and ascent of Everest in 1953.

90. Finch, G. I. ‘Man at High Altitudes.’ An offprint from the Royal Institution of Great Britain, Weekly Evening Meeting, Friday, June 6, 1952. £75

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 13; 4 photo. illusts. of Everest and oxygen equipment, very good in self-wrappers with RI inkstamp to first page. Finch lectured on the physiological aspects of the ascent of Everest. On display during the lecture were a scale model of Everest, and photographs lent by the RGS and Finch.

91. Fowler, Mick. No Easy Way. The challenging life of the climbing taxman. Sheffield: Vertebrate Publishing, [2018]. £45 Limited edition, one of 200 signed copies. 8vo. pp. [i, limitation leaf], [x], 241; photo. illusts.; new in the original cloth, d.-w. Mick Fowler, former President of the Alpine Club and “the master of the small and remote Himalayan expedition”, offers his third volume of memoirs. He and his climbing partner Paul Ramsden became the first pair to win the Piolet d’Or three times, and the present volume relates their ascents of the Prow of Shiva in the Indian Himalaya and Gave Ding in Nepal, climbs which won them their second and third Piolets.

94 93 92. Franco, Jean. Makalu 8470 metres [27,790 feet]. The highest Peak yet conquered by an entire team. London: Jonathan Cape, [1957]. £275 First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 256; col. frontis., photo. illusts.; very good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is a little chipped to extrems. Neate F52; Yakushi F183c; Perret 1741. An account by the leader of the successful French expedition to Makalu, during which Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy made the first ascent; Franco, Guido Magnone and Gyaltsen Norbu reached the summit the following day.

93. [Freshfield.] Hervey Fisher. From a Tramp’s Wallet. A Life of Douglas William Freshfield, D.C.L. M.A. 1845-1934. The Erskine Press, 2001. £25 First edition. 8vo. pp. xi, 307; illusts., maps; as new in original cloth, d.j. A life of Freshfield, with details of his expeditions to the Caucasus and Kangchenjunga, and of his contributions to the RGS and the Alpine Club.

97. [Game. Everest.] Everest. A Game of Skill for the Family. Aldon Industries Incorporated, n.d. c. 1950s. £95

A dexterity game, in the form of a mountain with a spiralling groove, and a steel ball, encased in a plastic dome, mounted on card with title and illusts., instructions to verso; some wear to card, a few dents to the plastic dome, but still in working order. Le Montagne per Gioco no. 184. This Everest dexterity game is graded on the verso: “Explorer” is one who can make it to the top in 10 seconds, “Guide” for those in 20 seconds, “Amateur” for those who sometimes make it, and “Tenderfoot” for those who “Just can’t make it!”. Though presumably issued in large quantities, and priced 40c, the game is uncommon, and we can find no information relating to its manufacture.

98. [Game.] Mountaineering. The Race to the Summit! ?Made in England, n.d. c. 1953. £75

A collapsible pyramid with mountain scenes printed in colours, with the accompanying printed base, three (of four) coloured playing pins and dice with shaker; the tabs for insertion into the base somewhat worn, all contained in the original box with coloured scene of climbers and a tent flying the British flag, a little worn. Le Montagne per Gioco 40. The mountain pyramid is designed to be fixed into the board by means of two tabs, and the players move up the mountain by sticking the pins into the paper. The game itself is produced on this card and paper. The references to a base camp, oxygen use, and the British Flag on the box lid suggests that the game was produced around the time of the British Everest expdedition in 1953.

94. Frison-Roche, R. Premier de Cordée. Roman. Paris: Arthaud, 1946. £35

Later printing. 8vo. pp. 329, [6]; photo. plates; some marginal age-toning, hinges repaired with tape, good in the original wrappers, creased on spine. A presentation copy from the author, inscribed to half title “pour H. Storck en très amical souvenir de “3 vies et une corde” le plus sincère de tous les films du montagne, et pour moi le plus attochant R. Frison-Roche Chamonix 5/9/47”. Perret 1774. Frison-Roche, the pre-eminent alpinist and explorer, made several significant ascents on Mont Blanc, and became director of the Alpine school of the Compagnie des guides de Chamonix. His novel Premier de Cordée first appeared in 1941; it tells the story of a young guide from Chamonix. This later printing of the work was presented by FrisonRoche to Henri Storck, the film director whose ‘Trois Vies et une Corde’ (1933), the record of an ascent on Mont Blanc, became an early classic of mountaineering film.

95. Frison-Roche, Roger. L’Aiguille du Midi La Vallée Blanche. Histoire d’une Montagne et d’un Téléférique. Editions High-Points, n.d. c. 1958. £15

8vo. pp. [24]; illusts. by Yves Picard, folding coloured panorama at rear; some browning to fixed margin of panorama (glue discoloration), light agetoning to margins, good in the original pictorial wrappers, slightly browned. A history of the development of the cable-car that runs from Chamonix to L’Aiguille du Midi, started in 1955 and opened for service in 1958.

96. [Game. Everest 1953.] Burke’s Playtime Books. Parlour Game. The Everest Climb. [Burke Publishing Co. Ltd., 1953]. £75 First edition. Oblong large 8vo. pp. 8, with additional central folding game section printed on card; illusts.; very good in the original pictorial wrappers. Le Montagne per Gioco 38. A game, played with national flag counters and a die (printed in the central card section and in this copy unused).

101

102

100. [Game. K2.] Peak Experience. The Climbing Game. Vancouver: Armchair Adventures Inc., 1987. £25

A pentagonal board game, approx. 44 x 55 x 56cm., contained in the original box which is unopened in the original cellophane, presumably with the full complement of cards, pieces, and spinner. Le Montagne per Gioco no. 47. The imagery used for the mountain on both the board and box of this gane are of K2 viewed from Broad Peak. As the explanatory text to the entry in Le Montagne per Gioco points out, the game was issued a year after one of the most disastrous seasons on K2, when Al Rowse, Julie Tullis,Wojciech Wröz, and others died on the mountain.

101. Gildea, Damian. The Antarctic Mountaineering Chronology. [Goulburn, N.S.W.]: D. Gildea, c. 1998. £25

First edition. 4to. pp. 110; 8pp. of illusts.; very good in original pictorial card covers, slightly creased. A record of mountaineering activity in Antarctica from 1817 to 1998.

100 99. [Game. Everest.] Assault on Mt. Everest. Boulder, Colorado: Eagle’s Nest, 1976. £75

A large folding board, approx. 57 x 87cm., contained in the original box with photographic illlustration, unopened and preusmably containing the accompanying cards, charts, pieces, and dice, slight wear to one corner. Le Montagne per Gioco no. 44. According to the entry in Le Montagne per Gioco, this game was inspired by the competition between the Swiss and the British to reach the top of Everest. The winner of the game reaches the summit first.

102. Gillman, Peter & Leni, with Jochen Hemmleb. Extreme Eiger. The Race to Climb the Direct Route up the North Face of the Eiger. London, etc.: Simon & Schuster, [2015]. £25 Reprint [second impression]. 8vo. pp. [vi], 394; illusts.; as new in the original cloth, d.-w. Signed by the authors Peter & Leni Gillman, and by Jochen Hemmleb. Peter Gillman was the official reporter present in 1966 when Dougal Haston and John Harlin led a team to climb the north face of the Eiger by the direct route. The present work revisits Eiger Direct, the book Gillman and Haston wrote at the time, with the assistance of Jochen Hemmleb, who liaised with the German team that made the attempt at the same time as Haston and Harlin.

103. Gore, Dr. K. B. These Himalayas. A Sojourn in the Pindari Glacier. Baroda State Press, 1941.

£250

First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 48; port. and 20 other plates; very good in the original printed card wrappers, discoloured and stained along spine. A presentation copy from the author, inscribed to front blank. Yakushi G195. This is an account of the 1940 expedition to the Pindari Glacier by the Maharaja Saheb of Baroda. The book is scarce, and Worldcat lists only three institutional copies.

107

104

105

104. Grant, Richard. Annapurna II. London: William Kimber, [1961]. £85

First edition. 8vo. pp. 192; photo. illusts., maps endpapers; light spotting to fore-edge, else near-fine in original cloth, d.-w. Neate G44; Yakushi G241; Perret 2046. The first ascent of Annapurna II, in 1960.

105. Gregory, Alfred. The Picture of Everest. A book of fullcolour reproductions of photographs of the Everest scene … With an introduction by Sir John Hunt. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1954]. £50

First edition, in the deluxe binding. Small 4to. pp. [96]; numerous full-page colour photo. illusts., logistical chart of ascent on rear-endpaper; very good in original parchment boards, in pale-blue.d.-w., which is browned on spine and to extremities, and slightly frayed. Neate G62; Yakushi G261; Perret 2048; S & B G14. Gregory was the official photographer on the 1953 Everest expedition.

106. Gregory, Alfred. Alfred Gregory’s Everest. With a Foreword by Jan Morris. London: Constable, [1993]. £125

First edition. 8vo. pp. 183; numerous b & w photo. illusts.; very good in the original cloth, d.j., which has a small closed tear to upper cover. Signed by Alfred Gregory to the half title. S & B G15. A selection of Gregory’s photographs of the 1953 Everest expedition, some not previously published, issued to mark the 40th anniversary of the first ascent.

106

109

110. Hillary, Edmund. From the Ocean to the Sky. New York: The Viking Press, [1989]. £85

First US edition. 8vo. pp. 273; illusts., map endpapers; near-fine in the original cloth, d.j. With, loosely inserted, a press release for the book on two legal size blue sheets (8.5 x 14”), printed to rectos only, stapled as issued to upper left corners, folded, and signed by Hillary to the left margin of the first leaf. Yakushi H321a; Perret 2261. Hillary describes his journey from the mouth of the Ganges to its source. The flyer was issued shortly before the book’s publication in April 1979, under the series heading “News from Viking”. The release gives details of the contents, and a brief biography of Hillary.

111. Hillary, Louise. A Yak for Christmas. The Story of a Himalayan Holiday. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1968. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. 208; photo. illusts., sketch maps; very good in original cloth, d.-w., which is a little rubbed. Beaux Arts Commemorative Volume bookplate to half-title, signed by the author. Neate H89; Yakushi H325. Edmund Hillary’s family joined him in Nepal on the completion of a hospital at Khunde, near Mount Everest. The family trekked to base camp, and spent Christmas with Sherpas. The bookplate in this copy was specially made to mark “the first publication of the book”, and is number 11.

107. Heim, Arnold. ‘Die schweizerische Himalaya-Expedition 1936. Vorläufiger Bericht.’ Sonderabdruck aus “Die Alpen”, 1937, Helt 3. £45

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. [81]-85; 2 plates of photo. illusts.; very good in the original self-wrappers, slight age-toning and soiling. A presentation copy to “Professor W. T. Gordon with kindest regards A. H.” This is a preliminary report from the Swiss expedition to the Kumaon Himalaya of 1936; Heim later published The Throne of the Gods as the official expedition account.

108. Heron, A. M. ‘Geological Results of the Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition.’ An article in Records of the Geological Survey of India, Vol. LIV, Part 2, 1922. Calcutta: the Geological Survey of India, 1922. £65 First edition. 8vo. pp. [x, list of publications], [129]-239, [x, list of publications]; 5 plates from photos., one folding map and one section relating to Heron’s article, one other map; good in the original printed wrappers, bumped to extremities. Not in S & B. Heron accompanied the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance, and surveyed an area “of over 8000 square miles” in the Arun river drainage region in Tibet. These results were read before the Indian Science Congress at Madras in February, 1922; an abbreviated version of the article appeared as Appendix III in Howard-Bury’s Mount Everest The Reconnaissance, 1921 (pp. 338-40).

110

109. Hillary, Sir Edmund and George Lowe. East of Everest. An Account of the New Zealand Alpine Club Himalayan Expedition to the Barun Valley in 1954. [London:] Hodder & Stoughton, [1956]. £50

First edition. Large 8vo. pp. 70, [2], 48 (b & w photo. illusts.); two sketch maps; some foxing, good in original cloth, in d.w., which is frayed and browned. Neate H79; Yakushi H317a; not in Perret. The New Zealand Alpine Club expedition to the Barun valley included three members of the previous year’s successful Everest expedition, Hillary, Lowe and Charles Evans.

111

113

115

112

116

114. Holmes, R. B. The North-West Frontier Province. With a short description and a few impressions. Bombay: The Times Press, n.d. [1918]. £125

First edition. Oblong 4to. pp. 36 (final leaf ads.); numerous b&w photo. illusts.; somewhat creased in the original pictorial printed wrappers, minor wear to extremities. Holmes was the official forces photographer during the 3rd Afghan War of 1919. His photographs illustrate the text by “Bachelor”, probably a pseudonym for Holmes himself. The work describes the Khyber Pass, the Mohmond range, Peshawar, and the people of the region. We find only one example of the work in Worldcat (BL), as well as a later, expanded edition.

114

115. Holmes, Randolph. Souvenir for the Royal Visit to India and Pakistan. [Bristol: ?R. Holmes], n.d. c. 1960. £35

4to. pp. 52; b & w photo. illusts., coloured illusts. from original printings of mountain peaks, folding map at rear; minor age-toning to inner margins, else very good in the original pictorial boards, lettered “Between the Indus and Ganges rivers” to upper cover, minor wear to spine. Holmes‘s souvenir for the Royal visit reproduces his photographs of the Khyber Pass, scenes in Afghanistan and elsewhere, and portraits of local people. Also reproduced are his paintings of “the highest peaks in the Himalaya, Karakoram and Hindu Kush”: Kangchenjunga, K2, the Everest Group, Tirich Mir, and Nanga Parbat.

116. Houston, Charles S. ‘Denali’s Wife.’ Reprinted from American Alpine Journal, Vol. II, no. 3, 1935.` £80

117 112. [Himalaya. Deutsch-Österreichischen Himalaja-Karakorum Expedition.] Im Schatten des Karakorum. [Berlin: VEB ProgressFilm Vertrieb, n.d. [?1957]. £45

A film programme, 4to. 4pp., photo. illust. to entire upper cover and 10 other photo. illusts., information on the film and on the expedition to central pages; marginal browning, minor marginal tears. ‘Im Schatten des Karakorum’ (In the Shadow of the Karakorum) recorded the 1954 German-Austrian Himalaya-Karakorum Expedition, led by Mathias Rebitsch. Subtitled ‘Durch das wilde Land des Hunza auf die Gipfel der Batura’ (Through the wild Hunza land to the peaks of the Batura), the film used footage by Eugen Schuhmacher and Martin Schließler, with music by Erich Bender; it won an award at the 1955 Berlinale. Anderl Heckmayer was on the expedition, as was Karl Heckler, who died during it and to whose memory the film is dedicated.

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 285-297; 8 photo. illusts., one diagram; very good in the original printed wrappers, signed by the author to the upper wrapper. The first ascent of Mount Foraker - formerly known as Denali’s Wife - by a team that included the author and T. Graham Brown. Foraker is the second highest peak in the Central Alaska range, in Denali National Park, and the fourth highest peak in the United States.

117. Hunt, Sir John and Edmund Hillary. ‘Triumph on Everest.’ An article in The National Geographic Magazine, col. CVI, No. 1, July 1954, pp. 1-64. Washington: The National Geographic Magazine, 1954. £20

First edition. 8vo. pp. [xii, ads.], 1-152, [viii, ads.]; coloured and b&w illusts.; very good in the original printed wrappers, slightly creased and soiled. S & B pp. 110 & 111.The Everest article is in two sections, the first titled ‘Siege and Assault’ by Hunt, the second ‘The Conquest of the Summit’ by Hillary. The final page prints a photograph of President Roosevelt presenting the Society’s Hubbard medal to the two men.

113. [Himalaya. Trade card.] ‘An Ascent of the Himalayas.’ Huntley & Palmers, n.d. c. 1890s. £35

A chromolithographic card, approx. 4.5 x 3.5” (115 x 90mm), advertising text in French to verso, minor chipping to edges (not affecting image), else VG. Huntley & Palmers, the biscuit manufacturers of Reading and London, produced a series of high quality trade cards during the 1890s. The present card shows members of a climbing expedition making their way up a ridge with high peaks in the background, the native bearers carrying boxes of Huntley & Palmers biscuits.

118

119

120

118. Imfeld, Xavier. Vue Panoramique prise du Sommet des Rochers de Naye (2044m.). Territet-Glion aux Rochers de Naye: Les Compagnies de Chemin de Fer, n.d. c. 1890. £225

A large chromolithographed panorama, approx. 316 x 22 cm., numerous adverts. printed to verso, folding into original chromolithographed boards with scenes and views, slight wear to spine, else in very good condition. A spectacular panorama from the Rochers de Naye, which lie just east of Lake Léman (Geneva). Imfeld (1853-1909) was a surveyor who also made the first topographic survey of the Matterhorn, and assisted with the Club alpin français map of the chain of Mont Blanc.

119. Kohli, M. S. Nine Atop Everest. Story of the Indian Ascent. Foreword by Indira Gandhi. Orient Longmans Limited, Bombay, Calcutta, Madras, New Delhi, [1969]. £45

First edition. 8vo. pp. xxvii, 384; coloured and b & w illusts., sketch maps and illusts. at rear; bumped to upper outer margins, adhesion damage to half-tilte from flyleaf, else VG in original cloth, in d.-w., which is slightly spotted and chipped. Neate K43; Yakushi K267; S & B K23; not in Perret. The first successful Indian expedition to Everest (1965), the third Indian attempt. The expedition saw nine of its members ascend to the summit in succession, a record at that time.

120. Lachenal, Louis. Carnets de Vertige. Paris: Editions G.P., [1976]. £45

Reprint edition. 8vo. pp. 51; illusts. to text; near-fine in the original decorated cloth, in glassine cover. Cf. Yakushi L02 & Perret 2512. Louis Lachenal was, with Maurice Herzog, the first to climb an 8000m peak - Annapurna in 1950. Prior to that, he had made the second ascent of the north face of the Eiger, with Lionel Terrray. He died at Chamonix, while skiing, in 1955, and the following year his journals were published as Carnets de Vertige. The present book is one of several reprints that were made in the following years.

121

122

123. [Lhotse 1975.] Giuseppe Nangeroni, ed. Le Osservazioni scientifiche. Relazioni del gruppo scientifico . . . Coordonazione Mario Fantin. [Milan:] Club Alpino Italiano, 1977. £35

4tp. pp. [89]-171 + [64, illusts.]; two folding charts in rear pocket; very good in the original card wrappers, which are a little foxed. Cf. Yakushi C77. Estratto da Lhotse ‘75 Spedizione alpinistico-scientifica del C.A.I. all’Himalaya del Nepal. This publication extracts the scientific portion of a larger work that also included details of the climbing by Riccardo Cassin.

124. Liebig Cards. [Famous explorers.] Liebig’s Company, London, [1891]. £95

A full set of 6 Liebig reward cards, each with a chromolithographed scene to recto, captioned in German to foot of image, advert. to verso with text in French; slight foxing to verso, else VG. This early set comprises Emin Pascha in Africa, the von Schlagintweit brothers in the Himalaya, Alexander von Humboldt in South America, Magellan’s circumnavigation, A. E. Nordenskjöld’s north east passage, and de Brazza in the Congo.

125. Liebig Cards. ‘Formations de Glacier - Flore haute-alpestre.’ Compagnie Liebig [Antwerp], n.d. [1927]. £15 A full set of 6 Liebig reward cards, each with a chromolithographed scene to recto, advert. to verso, explanatory text in French; VG. Six images of different glacial phenomena.

121. Le Queux, William. Interlaken The Alpine Wonderland A Novelist’s Jottings. N.p. [?Interlaken], n.d. c. 1920s. £12 8vo. pp. 24; photo. illusts., one double-page sketch map; very good in the original illustrated wrappers, slightly creased. According to his entry in the Oxford DNB, William Le Queux, a crime fiction writer, “from 1923 spent much time in Switzerland, skiing and writing tourist publicity”. The present pamphlet was printed for distribution by Mr. W. Hofmann of the Carlton Hotel and Hotel du Lac, Interlaken.

122. [Leigh-Smith, Philip.] Record of an Ascent. A Memoir of Sir Richmond Thackeray Ritchie. By P. L-S. Dillon’s University Bookshop Ltd., 1961. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 43; frontis., 2 plates with 3 photo. illusts. and 2 copies of letters; good in the original cloth, gilt, minor wear. Not in Neate or Perret; no copy held by the Alpine Club; Meckly A Bibliography of Privately Printed Mountaineering Books A Revision (AJ vol. 96, 340, p. 205). This privately printed memoir relates Ritchie’s life from Eton to his position as Permanent Under Secretary of State for India (1909-12). The mountaineering interest is slight, and contained on the first page of text: “Few today remember Sir Richmond Ritchie . . . And fewer still would connect him with ‘le jeune homme de quinze ans qui a fait le Mont Blanc’, a figure known at Chamonix forty years earlier, the youngest person ever to have climbed to the summit of that mountain. The ascent, made together with his elder brother Gerald, is entered in the records of the Alpine Club under 3 September 1869” (p.7).

123

124

125

127

126

128

129

alpinists as the most suitable potential explorers of south-east Iceland by dint of their experience with Alpine terrain, and gives details of the as yet unatttempted peaks to be found there. A postscript added for this edition advises of an exploration route suggested by “Mr. Kral Franz Siemsen, an Iceland merchant”, that takes in ascents of Hekla, Orœfa and Kötlugiá.

129. Longstaff, Tom. This my Voyage. London: John Murray, [1950]. £50

First edition. 8vo. pp. [xi], 324; 23 photo. illusts., 15 sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, in original d.-w., which is worn with loss to extremities. Neate L48; Yakushi L279; Perret 2685; S & B L12. Longstaff was one of the great early Himalayan climber-explorers, who climbed on most ranges in the northern hemisphere. This autobiography recounts his experiences in the Himalaya, the mountains of Kumaon and Garhwal and Karakoram, with a chapter devoted to his time on the 1922 Everest expedition.

131

130

130. [Loppé.] William H. Mitchell. Loppé. Gabriel Loppé (18251913). [London: John Mitchell Fine Paintings, 2018]. £40

First edition. 4to. pp. 200; numerous illusts.; new in original printed card wrappers with pictorial card d.-w. “As a prolific artist and mountaineer, Gabriel Loppé is now recognized as the first painter to have depicted what the French call la haute montagne. He was the founder of the peintre-alpiniste school of painting and with a brush in one hand and an ice axe in the other, his eighty-eight years were lived with a great independence of spirit which rewarded him at every turn” (d.-w.)

131. Lunn, Henry S. The Grindelwald Conference 1894. A Holiday in the Bernese Oberland, with extensions to Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the St. Gothard, the Italian Lakes, the Engadine, and the Falls of the Rhine. London, ?1894. £95

132 126. Liebig Cards. ‘Alpinisme.’ Compagnie Liebig [Antwerp], n.d. [1936]. £25

A full set of 6 Liebig reward cards, each with a chromolithographed scene to recto, advert. to verso, explanatory text in French; slight foxing to verso, else VG. Scenes of climbers, illustrating various alpine techniques.

127. Liebig Cards. ‘La Vie des Glaciers.’ [The life of Glaciers.] Compagnie Liebig [Antwerp], n.d. [1939]. £15

A full set of 6 Liebig reward cards, each with a chromolithographed scene to recto, advert. to verso, explanatory text in French; VG. Six images of different glacial phenomena. The images are generic, but the explanatory text to the versos refers to glaciers of the Alps, Alaska, at the Poles, and in the Himalaya.

128. Longman, William. Suggestions for the Exploration of Iceland. An Address delivered to the Members of the Alpine Club On April 4, 1861. London: Longman, Green, Longman, and Roberts, 1861. £350 Second edition, with a Postscript. 8vo. pp. 44; folding map frontispiece; very good in the original printed wrappers, recently respined. Not in Neate or Perret. Longman, Vice-President of the Alpine Club, delivered the present lecture to foster interest among club members in new climbing areas “beyond the regions of our well-loved Alps”. He rates

?First edition. 8vo. pp. 167, 40, 47, xxxvi; ports., illusts., 4 folding maps, one double-page map; MS list of maps to frontis. recto, minor foxing, contents a little shaken in the original cloth, gilt, minor soiling or staining. Wäber II.42. Henry Simpson Lunn (1859-1939) was the founder of Lunn Poly, one of Britain’s largest travel companies. In the 1890s he organised the Grindelwald conferences, a series of meetings intended “to secure a really refreshing holiday in every sense of the word” (p. 14). The conferences gave opportunities for travel, alongside a programme with religious and cultural content. Among the speakers called in for the 1894 Conference were Edward Whymper, Edmund Gosse, Sir Robert Ball, and various divines. The present book was compiled to provide those attending with a programme, hints on travel, hotels, costs, and the like.

132. Lunn, Henry S. How to Visit Switzerland. A New Guide-Book to the Chief Scenes of Interest in Switzerland with the programme of the Grindelwald Conference, 1895. London: Horace Marshall and Son, 1895. £50 First edition. 8vo. pp. [vii], 266; port. frontis. of Lunn, two folding maps in pockets at front and rear, one folding map to text (with tear to fold), illusts.; bumped to upper outer margins, hinges slightly cracked, good in the original cloth, gilt, rubbed. Wäber II.26. “I hope that the following pages will be found to contain all that is necessary for, say, a month’s Swiss tour” (Preface). The book includes a chapter on ‘Mountain Climbing’ by J. T. W. Perowne.

136

135 133

134

133. Mallory, George. Boswell the Biographer. London: Smith, Elder & Co. 1912. £125

First and only edition. 8vo. pp. ix, 337, [2, ads.]; portrait frontispiece of Boswell after the drawing by George Dance; some spotting, good in the original cloth, gilt, somewhat marked, chip with slight loss to head of lower joint. George Mallory disappeared on Everest in 1924, and his name is primarily associated with the mountain. But climbing was not his only interest, and the present work testifies to his enjoyment of the life and work of James Boswell, Samuel Johnson’s friend and biographer. Based on his Member’s Prize Essay written during his final year at Cambridge, Boswell the Biographer was Mallory’s only book-length publication.

134. Maraini, Fosco. Karakoram. The Ascent of Gasherbrum IV. Translated from the Italian by James Cadell. London: Hutchinson, [1961]. £50

139. Messner, Reinhold 3 x 8000. Mein großes Himalaja-Jahr. Munich/Berlin: F. A. Herbig, [1983]. £25

First edition. 4to. pp. 159; sketch maps; fine in the original cloth, d.-w. Signed and dated by Messner at front. Yakushi M343a; not in Perret. An account of Messner’s expeditions to Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II, Cho Oyu, and Kangchenjunga.

140. Messner, Reinhold Antarktis. Himmel und Hölle zugleich. Munich/Zurich: Piper, [1990]. £25 First edition. 8vo. pp. 391, [3, ads.]; illusts., one extending map; fine in the original cloth, d.-w. Signed and dated by Messner at front. Perret 2960. Messner’s account of his 92-day traverse by ski across Antarctica, with Arved Fuchs.

First UK edition. pp. 320; coloured and b & w illusts., map endpapers; minor foxing, else VG in the original cloth, d.-w., which is slightly rubbed. Neate M47; Yakushi M168b; Perret 2809. Maraini’s account of the successful Italian expedition of 1958, under the leadership of Riccardo Cassin.

135. [Matterhorn.] A view of the Matterhorn on an enamel tin, produced for A. Egger’s Sohn, k.u.k. Hoflieferant, Wien. N.d. c. 1920s. £45

A metal tin with a hinged lid, approx. 20 x 17 x 10cm., coloured illustration to lid of the Matterhorn with the ?Hörnlihütte to the foreground, image of women walking in snow to front and rear sides, manufacturer’s name to ends; a little chipped and somewhat discoloured on several faces, but the images still in good condition.

136. [Matterhorn.] Zermatt. Wehrliverlag, Kilchberg-Zürich, n.d. c. 1950s. £25

A leporello-style booklet comprising 12 photographic postcards bound concertina-style, folding into original stiff card wallet, lettered ‘Zermatt’ to upper cover, very good. The postcards show seven views of the Matterhorn, views of Zermatt itself, others of Monte Rosa, the Grenzgletscher, and the Schwarzsee.

138 137

137. Meade, Charles. High Mountains. London: The Harvill Press, [1954]. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 136; photo. illusts.; some spotting to fore-edge, browning to endpapers, VG in original cloth, in d.-w., which is browned on spine. Neate M76; not in Perret. According to Neate, the present book explores “the question of mountains and nature mysticism”; the illustrations in the main show Himalayan peaks.

138. Messner, Reinhold Alleingang Nanga Parbat. Munich: BLV, [1979]. £35

First edition. 8vo. pp. 272; illusts., sketch maps; fine in the original cloth, d.-w. Signed by Messner at front. Yakushi M339a; Perret 2953. The author’s solo ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1978, the mountain that he had climbed previously with his brother in 1970. This climb established Messner “as probably the finest high-altitude mountaineer in the world” (Richard Sale, On Top of the World, p. 78).

139

140

142

141

143

144

143. [Mont Blanc.] Anon. ‘At Chamonix and Mont Blanc. By a Cape Colonist.’ An article in The Cape Monthly Magazine, no. 66, vol. XI, December 1875, pp. 361-7. Cape Town: J. C. Juta; London: E. Stanford, 1875. £20 8vo. pp. 321-384; very good in the original wrappers, rear wrapper torn with some loss. A brief description of a visit to Chamonix, and of an ascent on Mont Blanc to Les Grandes Mulets by a group that included “a Cape Colonial young lady and probably the only lady Anglo-Africander who had made the ascent” (p. 367).

144. Morin, Nea. A Woman’s Reach. Mountaineering Memoirs … With a foreword by Eric Shipton. London: Eyre & Spottiswoode, [1968]. £35 145

147

First edition. 8vo. pp. 288; photo. illusts.; foxing to title-page, else VG in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is a little chipped. Neate M145; Perret 3104. Morin (1905-1986) climbed in the Alps, Scotland and North Wales, and promoted all-women climbing. She also climbed with her daughter Denise (later wife of Charles Evans). An appendix provides ‘A Survey of Some Notable Feminine Ascents’.

145. Morris, James. Coronation Everest. London: Faber and Faber, [1970]. £125 Revised edition. 8vo. pp. 146; 3 sketch maps; spotting to fore-edge, else very good in original cloth, in d.-w. which is slightly faded to spine. Signed to the title-page by Jan Morris. Neate M147; Yakushi M514; Perret 3108; S & B M48. James Morris went to Everest as Special Correspondent of The Times. He reported on the ascent which coincided with the eve of Queen Elizabeth’s Coronation. This version of the book, first published in 1958, was made “for young readers” (dust-wrapper).

146 141. Modern Boy Great Folder of Adventures. N.p., 1933.

£75

A small printed portfolio, approx. 160 x 230 mm., containing 12 “photogravure” plates, metal fastener at rear (slightly rusted), the wrapper partially faded, but the plates in very good condition barring a small rust spot to the margin of the first plate. This set of plates, issued weekly between April and July in 1933, features images taken from some of the notable “Adventures” of the early 20th c. They include “No. 2 - Attacking Mount Everest, the World’s Highest Mountain” (the 1933 flight over Everest), “No. 7 - Flying over the South Pole” (Byrd’s 1928-9 Antarctic Expedition), and ”No. 10 - Captain Scott’s Last Dash to the South Pole”. Other subjects are T. E. Lawrence, Court Treatt’s Cape to Cairo motor expedition, Lindbergh and other aviators.

142. Moffat, Gwen. Space beneath my Feet. London: Hodder & Stoughton, [1961]. £45 First edition. 8vo. pp. 286; photo. illusts.; minor spotting to fore-edge, else near-fine in original cloth, in d.-w. Neate M125. Moffat was the first woman to become a climbing and mountaineering guide in Britain, associated with the RAF Mountain Rescue Service. This volume describes her early years in Britain and the Alps.

146. [Morshead, Henry.] Ian Morshead. The Life and Murder of Henry Morshead … A True Story from the Days of the Raj with an introduction by Mark Tully. [Cambridge:] The Oleander Press Ltd., [1982]. £75 First edition. 8vo. pp. xiv, 207, [1, ads.]; photo. illusts., map endpapers; near-fine in the original cloth, d.-w., with, loosely inserted, a pamphlet by the same author titled ‘The Postscript’ (pp. 11, privately printed by the author in 1990 and signed by him to the Foreword). Yakushi M523; S & B M52; not in Neate or Perret. Henry Morshead was a member of the Everest expeditions in 1921 & 1922, and Watkins’ 1927 expedition to Spitsbergen. He disappeared in Burma in 1931 and the present work, written by his son, provides a biography of his father and attempts to unravel the mystery. The Postscript that accompanies this copy was produced later and distributed by the author, and relates developments in his investigation following the book’s publication.

147. Moules, Leonard. “Three Miles High”. London: Christian Literature Crusade, n.d. [1947]. £30

First edition. 8vo. pp. 116; frontis. of Nanda Devi, photo. illusts., one relief map, one diagram; very good in original cloth, pictorial d.-w. (chipped). Yakushi M263. A description of missionary travels and work in the Kumaon Himalaya, with references to Nanda Kot, Nanda Devi and similar peaks.

148

149 150

151

152

148. [Mountaineering. Trade card.] ‘Best is the Cheapest Corticelli Spool Silk & Twist Florence Knitting Silk Black & Colors.’ Chas. Shields’ Sons Lith., NY, n.d. c. 1880s. £15 A chromolithograph card, approx. 78 x 118mm, showing four mountaineers reaching the top of a rocky outcrop, one raising a flag with the caption upon it, text to verso advertising the Corticelli brand, VG.

149. [Mountaineering. Trade card.] ‘The Alpine Tourist’s chief delight is the Magnolia Ham.’ Krebs Lithographing Company, Cincinnati, n.d. c. 1880s. £20

A chromolithographic trade card, approx. 73 x 115 mm., showing mountaineers ascending a peak, one mountaineer with a leg of ham on his back, advertiser’s text to verso for McFerran, Shallcross & Co., Louisville, KY, VG.

150. [Mountaineering.] ‘Conquerors of Rock and Ice.’ An article in Open Road for Boys, pp. 8-9 & 34, vol. XVIII, no. 9, September, 1936. Boston: The Open Road Publishing Company, 1936. £10

153

154

First edition. Thin 4to. pp. 34; illusts., inc. several from photos.; very good in the original pictorial wrappers, cover image of two climbers, slightly soiled and chipped. An illustrated article showing climbers in the Alps and on Mount Robson.

151. Munday, Don. The Unknown Mountain. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1948]. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. xx, 268; illusts. from photos., 2 maps inc. one folding; VG in the original cloth, which is a little faded on spine, in d.-.w, which is creased or frayed to extrems. and slightly soiled on spine. Neate M182; Perret 3151. Don and Phyllis Munday discovered Mount Waddington, in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, in 1925, and during the years that followed made several attempts to climb it. The peak was first climbed by Frtiz Wiessner and Bill House in 1936.

152. Murray, W. H. The Story of Everest. London: J. M. Dent and Sons, [1953]. £195

First edition. 8vo. pp. ix, 193; photo. illusts., sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, in d.-w., which is rather frayed with minor sellotape repairs to corners. Signed to the title-page by the author. Neate M188; Yakushi M288a; Perret 3163; S & B M57. Murray, a member of the 1951 Everest Reconnaissance, wrote this history of Everest 1921-52 shortly before the British attempt in 1953. The closing pages discuss the likelihood of British success in 1953.

153. Newby, Eric. A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush. London: Secker & Warburg, 1958. £350

First edition. 8vo. pp. 247; photo. illusts., 2 folding maps, one sketch map to text; very good in the original cloth, in d.-w., which is worn and frayed with tape repairs to verso. A presentation copy, inscribed “John Lewis with best wishes from Eric Newby 25.3.59”, with the dedicatee’s bookplate to front pastedown. Neate N16; Yakushi N46; Perret 3190. Newby’s story of his and Hugh Carless’ travels in Nuristan (North-east Afghanistan) includes an account of their failed ascent of Mir Samir. The relative inexperience of the two travellers provides many entertaining moments, nicely counterpointed by the final episode in the book - a chance meeting with the “English explorer” Wilfred Thesiger.

155 & 159 154. Noel, Captain J. B. L. Through Tibet to Everest. Edward Arnold & Co., 1927. £225

First edition. 8vo. pp. 302, [2], 16 (ads.); b & w photo. illusts., 4 illusts. to text; some occasional spotting, previous owner’s inscription to front blank, else good in the original cloth, gilt, slightly rubbed, boards slightly bowed, with the remains of the original dust-wrapper (most of front panel and a large portion of the spine). Neate N22; Yakushi (3rd ed.) N139a; Perret 3211; S & B N13. Noel, the photographer with the 1922 and 1924 Everest expeditions, here offers his own account of the first three expeditions to Everest and of the 1913 Reconnaissance in which he participated. The dust-wrapper on the book is exceedingly uncommon, albeit in this instance largely defective.

155. Noyce, Wilfrid. Scholar Mountaineers. Pioneers of Parnassus. New York: Roy Publishers, 1950. £35

First US edition. 8vo. pp. 164, [2]; 12 plates, wood-engs. to text by R. Taylor; VG in the original cloth, in d.-w. Neate N39; not in Perret, Spence, Renard, or Rosove. A collection of essays on 12 different writers and their treatment of mountains: Dante, Rousseau, Petrarch, De Saussure, Goethe, Wordsworth, Keats, Ruskin, Leslie Stephen, Nietzsche, Pope Pius XI and Captain Scott.

156 157

160

158

Not in the usual bibliographies. As with the preceding item, this booklet contains Noyce’s selection of 49 frames of a filmstrip, beginning with “Packing at Bhadgaon” and culminating in “Tenzing on Top”. Again, we can find no copies in institutional holdings.

159. Noyce, Wilfrid. Climbing the Fish’s Tail. London: William Heinemann, [1958]. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. xiii, 150; coloured and b&w illustrations, 2 sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, d.j., which is a little rubbed. Neate N35; Yakushi N173a; Perret 3225. An attempt, with a 5-man party, on Machapuchare, in the Nepal Himalaya.

161

160. Orme, Eve. Mountain Magic. London: Rich & Cowan, n.d. [1945]. £50

First edition. 8vo. pp. 80; illustrations from photographs, map endpapers; a very good copy in the original cloth and d.-w., which is a little faded on spine and chipped to extremities. Yakushi (3rd ed.) O76; Czech p. 155. The author’s narrative of a journey in 1926 to the Chang Chenmo Valley in Ladakh, accompanying her husband on a shooting trip.

161. Paar, Th. Souvenir of Darjeeling. 20 Art Views and 12 Types. N.p., n.d. c. 1910. £95

162 156. Noyce, Wilfrid and Richard Taylor. Everest Is Climbed. [Penguin Books Ltd, Harmandsworth, Middlesex, 1954]. £25 First edition. Oblong 8vo. pp. 32; coloured and b & w illusts. throughout, sketch maps; very good in the original pictorial wrappers, slight rusting to staples, bumped to lower outer corners. Neate N36; Yakushi N70; S & B N19; not in Perret. A Puffin Picture book for children, with text by Noyce and illustrations by Taylor.

157. [Noyce, Wilfrid.] Notes for use with the Filmstrip The Ascent of Everest. Filmstrip no. 6154 [so titled to upper wrapper]. Educational Productions Limited, n.d. c. 1955. £225

First and only edition. 8vo. pp. 12; small section of tape to last page of text, else very good in the original printed wrappers. Not in the usual bibliographies. This booklet, printed to accompany the filmstrip of the title, contains descriptions of 40 “frames” selected and described, according to the first page of text, by Noyce. These show scenes during the approach to and ascent of Everest, the famous summit photograph of Tenzing, and then scenes from the descent. Both the film and the booklet were produced with the co-operation of the RGS and the Alpine Club, yet we can find no other copy of the booklet in institutional holdings (Worldcat, KVK, Copac).

Oblong 8vo. 16 leaves of 32 full-page photo. illusts.; very good in the original string-tied printed wrappers, previous owner’s inscription to upper cover. A nicely produced photographic souvenir, with views of the “Everest range” and Kangchenjunga, and portraits of the Dalai Lama, Bhutia and Nepali men and women.

162. Paragot, Robert & Lucien Bérardini. Vingt Ans de Cordée. Paris: Flammarion, [1974]. £45 First edition. 8vo. pp. 160; illusts.; very good in the original pictorial wrappers, slightly rubbed. Inscribed to front blank by Paragot and by Louis Audibert, a member of the team that climbed Huascaran in 1966. Perret 3287. Accounts of the authors’ climbs in the Alps, Dolomites, and Andes (Aconcagua, with Ferlet).

163. Patey, Tom. One Man’s Mountains. Essays and Verses. London: Gollancz, 1971. £20

First edition. 8vo. pp. 287; illusts.; very good in the original cloth, d.-w. Neate P22; Yakushi P92; Perret 3304. Patey (1932-1970) was one of Scotland’s foremost climbers, and died while abseiling off the north coast of Scotland in May 1970. He came to public attention with the televised climb of the Old Man of Hoy with Bonington and others. This volume, published posthumously, gathers Patey’s published essays and verse, including his account of the Mustagh Tower and Rakaposhi in the Himalaya.

158. [Noyce, Wilfrid.] Notes for use with the Filmstrip Through Nepal to Everest. Filmstrip no. 6155 [so titled to upper wrapper]. Educational Productions Limited, n.d. c. 1955. £225 First and only edition. 8vo. pp. 16; very good in the original printed wrappers.

163

165

164

166

164. Perret, Jacques. Regards sur les Alpes. 100 livres d’exception, 1515-1908. Edition du Mont-Blanc, [2011]. £55

First edition. 4to. pp. 271; numerous coloured and b & w illusts.; new in original board in wraparound slip, in card slipcase. A useful survey of one hundred important books that reflect the increasing knowledge and experience of the Alps over the centuries. The list begins with works by Signot, Tschudi, Gesner, Stumpf and Simler, and closes with Mummery, Coolidge, Rey and Baud-Bovy.

165. [Photograph. Matterhorn.] ‘Le Mont-Cervin & Le Riffelsee 2399. Pres Zermatt, J. A.’ N.p., n.d. c. 1860s. £10 A scenic carte de visite, captioned to the right of the image, slightly faded to left margin, else VG. The Riffelsee is shown with the Matterhorn in the background.

166. [Photograph. Mont Blanc.] ‘Passage de la Tête noire’. Geneve: Garcin, n.d. c. 1860s. £5

A scenic carte de visite, captioned beneath image, mounted to card with photographer’s imprint to verso, slightly faded to lower margin, else in very good condition. Card no. 135 produced by the photographer.

169

167

170

168

173. [Photograph. Stereocard. Alps.] ‘Oberland Bernois. Détail de glace au Glacier supérieur de Grindelwald’ [captioned to verso]. A. Braun, à Dornach (Haut-Rhin), n.d. c. 1860s. £12

A stereocard showing climbers on the slopes of the glacier, photographer’s details printed to recto, slightly soiled else VG. From the series ‘Suisse’.

174. [Photograph. Stereocard. Alps.] ‘La Pointe d’Eggischorn.’ F. Charnaux à Genève, n.d. c. 1860s. £12

A stereocard showing climbers at the summit of the Eggishorn, series title to recto, photographer’s details printed to recto, image slightly faded, G. Issued in the series ‘Suisse et Savoie’.

175. [Photograph. Stereocard. Himalaya.] ‘12 The Peak above Laka Pass’ [captioned by hand to verso]. N.p., n.d. c. 1900. £10 A stereocard showing a view up to the peak, somewhat faded, G. The Laka Pass lies in Himachal Pradesh, northwest of Simla.

167. [Photograph. Mont Blanc.] ‘Hotel de La Tête noire, route de Chamonix’. Geneve: Garcin, n.d. c. 1860s. £5

A scenic carte de visite, captioned beneath image, mounted to card with photographer’s imprint to verso, in very good condition. Card no. 176 produced by the photographer.

168. [Photograph. Mont Blanc.] ‘8. Aiguille du Dru. Montanvert.’ N.p., n.d. c. 1860s. £10

171

172

A scenic carte de visite, captioned beneath image, slightly soiled else VG. A view of the peaks in the Mont Blanc massif.

169. [Photograph. Mont Blanc.] A carte-de-visite of Aiguille du Dru from the hotel. N.p., n.d. c. 1860s. £10 A scenic carte de visite, uncaptioned, VG. A view of the peaks in the Mont Blanc massif.

173

170. [Photograph. Mont Blanc.] A carte-de-visite of climbers on the Mauvais Pas on Mont Blanc. N.p., n.d. c. 1860s. £10 A carte de visite, uncaptioned, VG. A view of the peaks in the Mont Blanc massif.

171. [Photograph. Mont Blanc.] ‘Ascension au Mont Blanc (Rencontre des Bossons et du Taconay).’ M. M. Bisson Freres Photographes de S. M. l’Empereur, 8, Rue Garanciere, pres Saint Sulpice, Paris, n.d. c. 1860s. £15

174

A carte de visite, captioned to verso, VG. From the publishers’ series “Excursion en Savoie Mont Blanc et ses Glaciers”, the image shows climbers on the glacier des Bossons.

172. [Photograph. Stereocard. Alps.] ‘Passage des Echelles.’ Charnaux éd. à Genève, n.d. c. 1860s. £15 A stereocard from a photograph by Savioz, showing travellers ascending ladders on a pass over the Alps, captioned by hand, annotated to verso “Part of road from Leukerbad to Albinen 28.8.67”, image slightly browned to margins, small ink spot to one side, else G.

175

176

179

177

178

180

181

183

185 182 186

184 176. [Photograph. Stereocard. Jungfrau.] ‘The Ascent of the Jungfrau - Crossing the Glacier, Switzerland.’ Strohmeyer & Wyman, NY, 1897. £10 A stereocard showing climbers crossing a crevasse, inkstamp of The F.-A. P. P. Co., Balham, London, to verso, G. The card is copyrighted to Underwood & Underwood.

177. [Photograph. Stereocard. Jungfrau.] ‘The Ascent of the Jungfrau - Crossing the Glacier - Switzerland.’ Underwood & Underwood, NY, 1905. £10 A stereocard showing climbers crossing a crevasse, explanatory text to verso, bumped to one corner else G.

178. [Photograph. Stereocard. Mont Blanc.] ‘Ascent of Mt. Blanc - crossing the Bossons Glacier - Grands Mulets in distance, Alps.’ Underwood & Underwood, NY, 1901. £10 A stereocard showing climbers crossing a crevasse, explanatory text to verso, VG.

179. [Photograph. Stereocard. Mont Blanc.] ‘Traversee de la Mer de Glace.’ Tairraz Frères, n.d. c. 1860s. £15

A stereocard showing climbers on the Mer de Glace, caption, series title and photographer’s details embossed to recto, slightly soiled, VG. Issued as no. 186 in the series ‘Vues de Chamonix’.

180. [Photograph. Stereocard. Mont Blanc.] ‘Le Mont-Blanc vu du Jardin, Chamonix (Savoie).’ E. Lamy, n.d. c. 1870s. £15 A stereocard showing climbers on the glacier, VG. No. 27 in the series Switzerland and Savoy.

181. [Photograph. Stereocard. Mont Blanc.] ‘Le Mauvais Pas.’ F. Charnaux à Genève, n.d. c. 1870s. £12

A stereocard showing travellers on the Mauvais Pas, series title to recto, photographer’s details printed to recto and verso, image slightly faded, G. Issued in the series ‘Suisse et Savoie’.

182. [Photograph. Stereocard. Mont Blanc.] ‘Mer de Glace with Aig. du Géant, Charmoz and Montanvert in distance, Alps.’ Keystone View Company, Meadville etc., n.d. c. 1905. £10 A stereocard showing a party next to the glacier, explanatory text to verso, G. The card is copyrighted to Underwood & Underwood.

183. [Photograph. Stereocard. Norway.] ‘Among mountains and chasms of ice - enormous crevasses of Brigsdal glacier, Norway.’ Underwood & Underwood, NY, 1905. £10 A stereocard showing climbers among the ice of a glacier, explanatory text to verso, VG.

184. [Photograph. Stereocard. Pyrenees.] ‘33. Saint-Béat (Luchon)’ [captioned by hand to verso]. J. Andrieu, Paris, n.d. c. 1860s. £5 A stereocard showing a village in the Pyrenees, photographer’s details printed to recto, image slightly faded, G. Published in the series ‘Voyage aux Pyrèrnées’.

185. Pierre, Bernard. Ils ont conquis l’Himalaya. Paris: Plon, [1979]. £35

First edition. 8vo. pp. 250; illusts., sketch maps; minor age-toning to margins, else very good in the original pictorial wrappers, slightly rubbed, creased on spine. Inscribed to half title by Pierre. Yakushi P211; Perret 3454 (“Un bon ouvrage”). A history of mountaineering expeditions to the Himalaya.

186. Pierre, Bernard & Claude Aulard. Escalades et randonnées au Hoggar et dans les Tassilis. Paris: Arthaud, [1985]. £25

New edition. 8vo. pp. 260; illusts., sketch maps; very good in the original pictorial wrappers, bumped to upper outer corners, creased on spine. Inscribed to half title by Pierre. Perret 3456. A new edition of the author’s 1952 Escalades au Hoggar, describing his climbs in the Sahara.

189

187

191

188

187. [Pyrenees.] A bespoke map by Edward Stanford formed from sections XIII and XIV of the Touring-Club de France Carte Touriste de France. Paris: Gravée and Imprimée par Erhard Fres., 1913. £125

3rd ed. A large folding coloured map, approx. 68 x 24” (172 x 61 cm.), sectionalised on linen, browning to one fold, else very good, Edward Stanford label to lower right corner, contained in bespoke slipcase with Stanford label (titled “Pyrenees”), which is a little worn. An excellent map showing the entire range of the Pyrenees.

188. [Pyrenees.] Les Pyrénées. Chemins de Fer d’Orléans et du Midi. [Paris: L. Geisler], n.d. c. 1920s. £20

190

8vo. pp. 28; vignette illusts.; a little creasing to corners, else good in the original pictorial wrappers with map to rear wrapper. A guide for visitors, with suggested routes to, and through, the region.

192

189. [Pyrenees.] Les Pyrénées. 24 Vues détachables. Bordeaux: Bloc Frères, n.d. c. 1920s. £10

Oblong 8vo. 24 sepia postcard, still contained in the original printed wrappers; one postcard coming loose, else very good. A nice series of views, showing towns and mountain scenes.

190. [Pyrenees.] Spanish State Tourist Department. The Pyrenees. [Madrid], n.d. c. 1930s. £20

Sqaure 8vo. pp [32]; 108 photo. illusts., small sketch map; very good in the original printed card wrappers, slightly bumped to corners and spotted. A brochure promoting tourism in the Pyrenees, with 8pp. devoted to mountain centres in the region.

193

191. Rackham, H. Thomas Cecil Fitzpatrick. A Memoir. Cambridge: Privately Printed at the University Press, 1937. £30

First edition. 8vo. pp. [vii], 53; port. frontis., 2 plates from photographs; very good copy in the original blue buckram, gilt, t.e.g., minor marks to cloth. Alpine Club Library Catalogue 1982 p. 250; Meckly A Bibliography of Privately Printed Mountaineering Books A Revision (AJ vol. 96, 340, p. 204); not in other bibliographies. Fitzpatrick, a physicist by training who worked at the Cavendish laboratory, was also a not inconsiderable climber. The final chapter of the present account details his climbs in the Alps, notably the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, and high-level routes.

192. Rébuffat, Gaston. Starlight and Storm. The Ascent of Six Great North Faces of the Alps. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., [1956]. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. xxi, 122; photo. illusts., sketch maps; minor spotting to fore-edge, else near-fine in original cloth, d.-w. Neate R20; Perret 3610. The French climber’s lyrical account of his ascents of the Grandes Jorasses, the Piz Badile, the Dru, the Matterhorn, the Cima Grande di Lavaredo, and the Eiger.

193. Rébuffat, Gaston. On Snow and Rock. London: Nicholas Kaye, [1963]. £25

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 192; photo. illusts.; bumped to head of spine partially affecting contents, else VG in original cloth, in d.-w. with one or two chips. Neate R19; Perret 3612. Rébuffat’s Neige et Roc appeared in 1959, and provided an illustrated guide to Alpine technique.

194 & 195

194. Richardson, W. L. This World So Wide. Chicago: Privately printed, 1922. £25

First edition. Small 8vo. Original printed boards; pp. 103; some wear to extrems. with small split to spine, repaired to inner hinges. Meckly A Bibliography of Privately Printed Mountaineering Books A Revision (AJ vol. 96, 340, p. 204); not in other bibliographies. Richardson sailed from Montreal in the early summer of 1922 for a visit to England and the Continent. He joined a party on a tour of the Dolomites, making an ascent of Monte Spinale with the guide Antonio Dalla Giacomo and crossing the Tuckett Pass. He made further climbs with another guide, Antonio Colli, in the Cortina region, before returning to Bolzano for a cross-country journey to Davos via the Stelvio.

196

199

197

201

This book, begun by Michael Ward (of the 1951 and 1953 Everest expeditions), was completed by Richard Sale. Ward’s articles on the Pundits had appeared in the Alpine Journal, but he died before he had the opportunity to complete a monograph on the subject, The book has a Preface written by Ward for the planned book, and thereafter follows his original plan: beginning with early journeys by Europeans to the Himalayan kingdoms later chapters cover the work of the Survey of India and the Pundits. Ward made two trips to Bhutan as a medical advisor to the king, and used Pundit techniques to prepare the first accurate map of the remote Lunana area of Bhutan, reproduced here.

200 202 195. Richardson, W. L. Good Adventure. Chicago: Privately printed, 1925. £25

First edition. Small 8vo. pp. 111; 3 photo. illusts., sketch map to text; good in the original printed boards, some wear to extrems. with loss to head of spine. Meckly A Bibliography of Privately Printed Mountaineering Books A Revision (AJ vol. 96, 340, p. 204); not in other bibliographies. Richardson travelled to Europe, and after a spell cycling in Normandy he continued via Paris to the Bernese Oberland. He walked much of the area, crossing the Furka and other passes, and going to the top of the Jungfrau. His guide on some of these excursions was Joseph Manni.

196. Robertson, David. George Mallory. London: Faber and Faber, [1969]. £75 First edition. 8vo. pp. 279; illusts. and sketch maps; near-fine in original cloth, in d.-w. Neate R51; Yakushi (3rd ed.) R256a; Perret 3719; S & B R14. The best modern biography by Mallory’s son-in-law, now somewhat scarce.

197. Roch, André. Climbs of my Youth. London: Lindsay Drummond, [1949]. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 159; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, d.-w. which is faded on spine (as usual) and slightly chipped to extrems. Neate R57; Perret 3726. Roch (1906-2002) climbed in the Alps and Himalayas, and led the 1952 Swiss Everest expeditions. He made many first ascents, and his autobiography records the first ascent of the north face of the Triolet.

198. Ruttledge, Hugh. ‘The Mount Everest Expedition of 1936.’ Reprinted from The Geographical Journal, vol. LXXXVIII no 6, December 1936. £75 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 491-523; 15 photo. illusts. relating to Ruttledge’s article; very goood in the original printed wrappers. Not in the usual bibliographies. Ruttledge’s article contains appendices by Morris, Smijth Windham, Smythe, Humphreys, and Warren. The discussion which followed the reading of the paper included contributions by Smythe, Humphreys and Warren.

199. Sale, Richard. Mapping the Himalayas: Michael Ward and the Pundit Heritage. Hildersley: Carreg Publishing, 2009. £45

Softback version, first edition. 8vo (246 x 189mm). Text: pp. 208; colour and b&w illusts.; original limp card wrappers. Map case: 44 maps of all the Pundit journeys, of the Everest region, and of northern Bhutan based on Michael Ward’s survey work; all housed in a purpose-made slipcase. The text volume and map case contained as issued in a card slipcase.

200. Sale, Richard and George Rodway. Everest and Conquest in the Himalaya. Science and Courage on the World’s Highest Mountain. Barnsley: Pen and Sword, 2011. £30

First edition. 8vo. pp. vi, 231; photo. illusts.; as new in the original cloth, in d.j. Signed by both authors to title-page. A study of the development of high altitude physiological science in the context of Himalayan exploration and, in particular, the attempts to climb Everest.

201. Samoy, René. Les Attaques du Mont Everest. Paris: Larousse, [1929]. £50

First edition. Small 8vo. pp. 28; 11 partly-coloured illusts.; some agetoning, but overall very good in the original printed wrappers. Not in the usual bibliographies. A children’s book, issued as no. 468 in the publisher’s series Les Livres Roses pour la Jeunesse. The book relates details of the 1920s Everest expeditions.

202. Sayre, Woodrow Wilson. Four Against Everest. London: Arthur Baker Limited, [1964]. £45

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 251; photo. illusts., 2 sketch maps; slight spotting to fore-edge, else VG in original cloth, in d.-w. Neate S11; Yakushi S98a; S & B S08; Perret 3930. An illicit 1962 attempt by 3 Americans and one Swiss, without Sherpas or oxygen, to scale Everest by the north face. They approached the mountain via Tibet, at that time controlled tightly by the Chinese. Sayre, the leader, prefaces his account with a congratulatory letter from Eric Shipton, in which he acknowledges the difficulty of the route.

203. Schmidkunz, Walter. Der Kampf über den Gletschern. Ein Buch von der Alpenfront. Erfurt: Richters Verlaganstalt, 1934. £75

Illustrated edition. 8vo. pp. 287; numerous photo. illusts.; very good in the original white cloth letter in red, bumped to foot of spine (partially affecting contents). Not in Perret. Schmidkunz (1887-1861) was a prominent German climber and publisher of mountaineering titles. Among other works he assisted the translation of George Finch’s Der Kampf um den Everest, and reprinted Saussure’s account of his ascent of Mont Blanc. The present work relates his First World War experiences with the army in the Southern Eastern Alps in the region of Monte Pasquale and elsewhere. The book first appeared in 1917 without photographs; the present version includes some ninety images from the period.

204 204. Schuster, Claude, Lord. Mountaineering … The Romanes Lecture delivered in the Sheldonian Theatre 21 May 1948. Oxford at the Clarendon Press, 1948. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 32; previous owner’s inscription to title-page, very good in the original printed wrappers, browning to margins. Neate S27. Schuster’s lecture focusses on the golden age of Alpine climbing from Wills’s ascent of the Wetterhorn 1854 to Whymper’s 1865 Matterhorn disaster.

205. Shipton, Eric. Mountains of Tartary. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1951]. £95

First edition. 8vo. pp. 224; b & w photo. illusts., map endpapers; very good in the original cloth, gilt, in d.-w. which is a little frayed to extrems. with loss to head of spine. Neate S62; Yakushi (3rd ed.) S434a; not in Perret. Shipton was ConsulGeneral of Kashgar in 1940-1942 and again in 1946-1948. Here he describes his attempts to climb Mustagh Ata, Chakragil and Bogdo Ola.

205 & 209

207

206. Shipton, Eric. ‘Everest: the 1951 Reconnaissance of the Southern Route.’ Reprinted from The Geographical Journal, vol. CXVIII, Part 2, June 1952. £25 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. [117]-141; 2 sketch maps, two leaves of photo. illusts.; fair in the original printed wrappers, somewhat waterstained partially affecting contents. S & B p. 116. Shipton led this exploratory expedition to the southern slopes of Everest, successfully negotiating the Khumbu icefall to reach the Western Cwm. The discovery laid the foundation for the successful ascent two years later.

207. Shipton, Eric. The Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition 1951. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1952. £75

First edition. 4to. pp. 128; numerous b & w photo. illusts.; embrowning to endpapers, else VG in the original cloth, d.-w., which is slightly browned to fore-edge. Neate S60; Yakushi S435a; Perret 4047; S & B S24; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 37. Following Tilman’s 1950 expedition, an official reconnaissance was made with Shipton as leader; Edmund Hillary and Michael Ward were also members of the expedition. They established that access could be gained through the Khumbu Glacier ice fall to the Western Cwm, a vital link in the route to the summit.

208. Shipton, Eric. The True Book About Everest. London: Frederick Muller, 1955.

£475

First edition. 8vo. pp. 142; illusts.; very good in the original cloth, in original d.-w., which is browned on spine. Signed to half title by John Hunt, Ed Hillary, Mike Westmacott, Charles Wylie, Michael Ward and George Band. Neate S67; Yakushi S436a; S & B S25; not in Perret. A history of Everest written for a teenage readership, this copy signed by Ed Hillary, the first man to climb the mountain, by Hunt who led the 1953 expedition, and by four other members of the team.

210

211

209. Shipton, Eric. That Untravelled World. An Autobiography. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1969]. £45

First edition. 8vo. pp. 286; illusts., maps; VG in the original cloth, d.-w., which is has tear to upper outer corner with internal sellotape repair. Neate S65; Yakushi S216a. Shipton, one of the foremost climbers of the twentieth century, made significant ascents in Africa, the Himalayas and Patagonia. He was a member of several Everest expeditions, and sometime Consul-General in Kashgar.

210. Skrine, Sir Clarmont. ‘Shiwakte, Qungur and Chakragil.’ Reprinted from The Himalayan Journal, vol. XVII, 1952. £45 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. [73]-79; 4 leaves of photo. illusts., one sketch map to text; very good in the original printed wrappers. A presentation copy inscribed to upper wrapper “With the Author’s Compliments”. A description of travels by Skrine and his wife in the Kongur region, with references to Shipton, Tilman, and Aurel Stein.

212 211. Slesser, Malcolm. Red Peak … A personal account of the BritishSoviet Pamir Expedition 1962. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1964]. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 256; b&w photo. illusts., map endpapers; spotting at front and rear, else VG in original cloth, in d.-w. Neate S82; Yakushi S598a; Perret 4071. This 1962 expedition made a successful ascent of Pik Stalin (Communism Peak, or Ismoil Somoni) in the Pamirs. During the course of the expedition, members Wilfrid Noyce and Robin Smith fell to their deaths following an ascent of Mount Garmo.

212. Smith, Albert, et al. ‘Albert Smith’s Ascent of Mont Blanc’ in Blackwood’s Magazine compilation of Travel, Adventure, and Sport. Edinburgh & London: William Blackwood and Sons, n.d. c. 1885. £125

6 vols. Small 8vo. Some hinges partly cracked, else very good in the original cloth, rubbed, a little discoloured on spines, bubbling to cloth of upper board to vol. VI. This set reprints Smith’s original 1852 article from Blackwood’s Magazine (vol. IV, pp. 1-61), along with other articles on the theme of travel and adventure.

213. [Smith, Albert (1816-60).] A portrait of Smith in the form of a souvenir china plate by Copeland, late Spode, 160 New Bond Street, London. N.d. c. 1850s? £275 A small china circular plate, approx. 9” in diameter (23cm), a sepia portrait of Smith to the centre of the bowl, blue patterns to the side and rim, maker’s lettering to the bottom, minor marking and slight cracking to glaze, but overall in very good condition. Smith climbed Mont Blanc in August 1851 and opened his entertainment on that theme in the Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly, in March 1853. Smith’s show, in which he lectured to his audience using moving panoramas, proved popular - it ran for over 2000 performances, ending in 1858. The plates as seen here were offered for sale in the foyer of the theatre.

214. [Smith, Albert (1816-60).] ‘ALBERT SMITH’S EGYPTIAN HALL PICCADILLY 1859. CHINA’. £95

214

A brass farthing, approx. 22mm. in diameter, with the bust of Albert Smith to one side, legend in six lines to the other, edge plain, in very good condition. Cf. Audisio ed. Albert Smith. Lo Spettacolo del Monte Bianco e Altre Avventure in Vendita, p. 214 for other tokens issued by Smith. Smith did much to popularise mountaineering with his show on Mont Blanc, based upon his ascent of 1851. In 1858 Smith visited Hong Kong, and later that year he began another entertainment at the Egyptian Hall in London’s Piccadilly, ‘Mont Blanc to China’. This small medallion was probably distributed by Smith at the Hall as a form of keepsake of the show.

215. [Smith, Albert (1816-60).] ‘EGYPTIAN HALL MUSEUM 1860.’ £95

215

A brass farthing, approx. 22mm. in diameter, with the bust of Albert Smith to one side, legend in four lines to the other, edge plain, slightly darkened, else in good condition. See Audisio ed. Albert Smith. Lo Spettacolo del Monte Bianco e Altre Avventure in Vendita, p. 214. This small medallion was probably issued to commemorate Smith’s death in 1860.

217

218

216 216. [Smith, Albert.] Aldo Audisio & Veronica Lisino, eds. Albert Smith. Lo Spettacolo del Monte Bianco e altre Avventure in vendita / Le Spectacle du Mont-Blanc et autres Aventures en vente /The Spectacle of Mont Blanc and other Adventures for sale. Turin: Museo Nazionale della Montagna, [2018]. £35

4to. pp. 432; numerous illusts.; new in the original card covers. This splendid work was published to coincide with an exhibition about Albert Smith at the Museo Nazionale della Montagna in Turin, Italy, from May to October 2018. The central 150 pages illustrate items on show in the exhibition, with related essays by several people on Smith and his Mont Blanc climb and show (the essays are repeated in Italian, French, and English).

217. Smith, J. Burlington, photographer. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. An Illustrated Guide to the Railway & Darjeeling. Middlesborough: Hood & Co. Ltd., n.d. c. 1910. £75

?First edition. Small oblong 8vo. pp. 30, [1, ad. for Smith’s Himalayan Snow Pictures]; illusts. from photos.; very good in the original pictorial printed wrappers. A guide to the railway from Siliguri to Darjeeling, with images along the way and of the Himalaya, and a few suggested tours. The guide is uncommon, with a single copy found on COPAC (Leicester) and four more on Worldcat.

221. Spencer, Sydney, ed. Mountaineering. London: Seeley Service & Co. Limited, [1934]. £35

First edition. 8vo. pp. 383; photo. illusts., 9 folding maps; near-fine in the original buckram, gilt, in original d.-w. which has some minor nicks. Neate S150; Perret 4123. Published as Lonsdale Library vol. XVIII, this is an excellent overview of the subject, with contributions by some of the foremost mountaineers of the time: G. Winthrop Young, Claude Wilson, T. G. Longstaff, J. Monroe Thorington, and Walter Weston (on mountaineering in Japan and Korea). J. M. Wordie contributes a chapter on Arctic Mountaineering.

222. Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Everest. The Swiss Everest Expeditions. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1954. £75

First English edition. 4to. pp. [iv], xv, [4], 144, [4]; numerous photo. illusts. inc. many coloured, 5 sketch maps; VG in the original cloth, gilt, in d.-w., which is frayed with internal sellotape repairs. Neate S206; Yakushi S242c; S & B S63. A pictorial record of the Swiss 1952 Everest expeditions.

218. Smith, J. Burlington, photographer. Darjeeling and the Himalayan Snow Range … 18 Art Views, including Mt. Everest, D.H.Ry., and other views. Middlesborough: Hood & Co., n.d. c. 1920s. £95 Oblong 8vo. pp. 18 leaves including title-page and photo. illusts.; very good in the original string-tied printed wrappers titled “The Everlasting Snows. Souvenir of Darjeeling”, somewhat discoloured and worn to extremities, previous owner’s inscription to upper cover. An attractive photographic souvenir of the views from Darjeeling, showing Everest, Jannu, Kangchenjunga, and other scenes.

219. Smith, W. P. Haskett. Climbing in the British Isles. I. - England [II. - Wales and Ireland]. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1894 & 1895. £150

219

220

First editions. Together 2 vols. Small 8vo. pp. xii, 162 & viii, 197; diagrams to text; slight age-toning to margins of first vol., previous owner’s name pasted in at front, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, first vol. faded on spine. Neate S107; Perret 4078. “The first guidebook to British rock-climbing” (Neate). The section on Ireland was contributed by H. C. Hart. A third projected volume on Scotland, listed as “In Preparation” at the front of both volumes, was never published.

220. [Somervell, T. Howard.] Reason, J. Heights after Everest (Howard Somervell of India). London: Edinburgh House Press, [1957]. £25

Second impression. Small 8vo. pp. 24; loose in the original printed wrappers, which are a little chipped. Not in the usual bibliographies. Published as no. 69 in the publisher’s Eagle Books series (“True Stories of Real People”), this is a brief biography of T. Howard Somervell, member of the 1922 and 1924 Everest expeditions. The booklet was first published in 1954, no doubt in the wake of the 1953 successful first ascent. The booklet is scarce, with only three copies of the first impression located on COPAC, and none of this second impression.

221

222

223. [Taugwalder, Alexander.] Hermann Fietz. Alexander Taugwalder 1897-1952. Als Sonderbeilage zu “Die Alpen” herausgegeben vom Schweizer Alpenclub, 1954. £15

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 28; port. frontis., 2 leaves of photo. illusts.; minor age-toning, else good in the original printed wrappers, which are slightly browned. Taugwalder was from the same family as the Taugwalders who climbed the Matterhorn with Edward Whymper. Alexander Taugwalder himself became a prominent climber, making the second complete ascent of the northeast face of the Eiger, and an early traverse of the north face of the Matterhorn. He died on Monte Rosa.

223 224. Tenzing Norgay. Man of Everest. The Autobiography of Tenzing told to James Ramsey Ullman. London: George Harrap & Co. Ltd., [1955]. £250

Reprint (same year as UK edition). 8vo. pp. 320; 4 coloured plates, photo. illusts., 2 sketch maps; good in the original cloth, sunned on spine, stain to rear cover, in d-w. which is worn with some loss, internal sellotape repairs to head and tail of spine. Signed by Tenzing to half-title. Neate U05; Yakushi U24a; Perret 4563; S & B T06. Tenzing joined his first Himalayan expedition in 1935, Shipton’s Everest expedition. 18 years later he and Hillary stepped onto the summit of Everest, the first men to do so. His autobiography was published in the USA as Tiger of the Snows.

225. Terray, Lionel. Conquistadors of the Useless. From the Alps to Annapurna. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1963. £95 First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 351; photo. illusts., sketch maps; slightl foxing to edge of text block, else very good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is slightly chipped. Neate T19; Yakushi T75b; Perret 4230. Terray, one of the foremost climbers of his generation, made significant ascents in the Alps and the Himalaya, taking part in the successful ascent of Annapurna, and making the first ascent of Makalu. These episodes are covered in his autobiography.

225

226

226. Thompson, Dorothy E. Climbing with Joseph Georges. Kendal: Printed by Titus Wilson & Son Ltd., 1962. £45

First edition. 8vo. pp. frontis. and b & w photo. illusts.; near-fine in original cloth, d.-w. which is very slightly chipped. Neate T22; Perret 4262. Dorothy Evelyn Thompson (1888-1961) climbed in the Alps between the wars, often with her guide Joseph Georges. This memoir was written before the author’s death, and published posthumously by friends.

227. Thorington, J. Monroe. ‘Climbs in the Freshfield and other groups of the Canadian Rockies, 1930.’ Reprinted from ‘The Alpine Journal,’ May 1931. Spottiswoode, Ballantyne & Co. Ltd., 1931. £45

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 75-80; 3 plates of photo. illusts.; minor agetoning, else very good in the original printed wrappers. Climbs made with O. E. Cromwell, and Peter Kaufman of Grindelwald, including an ascent of Mount Conway.

227

228. Tichy, Herbert. Cho Oyu. By Favour of the Gods. London: Methuen & Co., [1957]. £225

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 196; coloured and b & w illusts., 2 sketch maps; foxing to fore-edge, else very good in the original cloth, d.-w., which has closed tear to head of upper joint, slightly browned on spine. Neate T32; Yakushi T151b; Perret 4269. This is the account of the first ascent of Cho Oyu by Tichy’s Austrian expedition in 1954.

229. Tilman, H. W. Snow on the Equator. London: G. Bell & Sons, 1937.

£375

First edition. 8vo. pp. xi, 265; errata slip, 20 plates from photographs, 4 maps; bumped to upper outer corners at rear, else very good in the original plain wrappers with original dustwrapper, slightly chipped to extremities. Neate T47; Perret 4275. Tilman’s account of life in post-war Kenya includes details of his climbing with Eric Shipton on Mount Kenya, Kilimandjaro, and the Ruwenzori. Tilman also relates a remarkable 3,000 mile bicycle journey across Africa from Uganda to the French Cameroons. This was Tilman’s second book, and and this copy is unusual in being some form of paperback edition - perhaps a proof copy but incorporating the correct contents and illustrations, and with the silver-flecked dust-wrapper.

230. Trollope, Anthony. Travelling Sketches. [Reprinted from the “Pall Mall Gazette.”] London: Chapman and Hall, 1866. £75

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. [iv], 112, 24 (ads.); very good in the original cloth, gilt, soiled, neatly repaired to upper joint. Sadleir 23. Trollope, the novelist, wrote this series of character studies for publication in the Pall Mall Gazette, and this is their first separate appearance. The chapters describe certain ‘types’ of traveller - ‘The Man Who Travels Alone’, ‘The Unprotected Female Tourist’ - and among those whom Trollope most admires is ‘The Alpine Club Man’ (pp. 84-97). Likened to a soldier, the mountaineer faces danger and overcomes it. “There will soon be no peak not explored, no summit in Europe that is not accessible, no natural fortress that has not been taken . . . cigar ships travelling at railway paces will carry new Alpine members to the mountains of Asia and South America, and we shall be longing eagerly in some autumn soon to come for news along the wires from Chimborazo, or for tidings from the exploring party on Dhawalagri” (pp. 92-3).

231 230

231. Tuckey, Harriet. Everest the First Ascent. The untold story of Griffith Pugh, the man who made it possible. London: Rider, 2013. £25 First edition. 8vo. pp. xxiii, 400; photo. illusts., sketch maps; VG in original cloth, d.-w., which is creased to head of spine. Signed by the author to the title-page. Pugh (1909-1994) was the physiologist on the 1953 Everest expedition, and responsible for the choice of food, clothing, and other aspects of the expedition. His research into high-altitude physiology also lay behind the strategies that enabled the expedition to place two men on the summit of Everest. This biography by his daughter relates the success on Everest to Pugh’s life and work.

232. Tyndall, John. ‘On the Mer- de-Glace.’ An offprint from the Royal Institution of Great Britain, Weekly Evening Meeting, Friday, June 4, 1858. £45

232

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 10; a few diagrams to text, very good in selfwrappers, a little dust-soiled, stitched, unopened as issued. Young, A Record of the Scientific Work of John Tyndall p. 24. Glaciological observations on the Mer de Glace, based on six weeks that Tyndall spent in Chamonix. It contains comments on the theories of J. D. Forbes and others.

233

234 & 235

236

234. Ullman, J. R. Americans on Everest. The official account of the ascent led by Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. Philadelphia and New York: J.B. Lippincott Company, 1964. £25

First US edition. 8vo. pp. xxiii, 429; coloured and b & w photo. illusts., one double-page sketch map; very good in the original cloth, d.-w., which is somewhat rubbed. Neate U01; Yakushi U25a; Perret 4365; S & B U07; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 41. The spectacular first American ascent of Everest, made in 1963.

235. Ullman, J. R. Americans on Everest. The official account of the ascent led by Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. London: Michael Joseph, [1965]. £25 237

238

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. xxiii, 429; coloured and b & w photo. illusts., one double-page sketch map; very good in the original cloth, d.-w., which is somewhat rubbed.

236. Underhill, Miriam. Give me the Hills. London: Methuen & Co. Ltd., [1956]. £50

First edition. 8vo. pp. 252; coloured and b&w photo. illusts.; endpapers partially browned, spotting to fore-edge, else very good in original cloth, d.-w. Neate U06; Perret 4368. “The author was one of the few leading American climbers active in the Alps between the wars” (Neate). Many of her climbs were first ascents by a woman.

237. Wadia, D. N. ‘Note on the Geology of Nanga Parbat (Mt. Diamir), and adjoining portions of Chilas, Gilgit Ditrict, Kashmir’ [Offprint from] Records of the Geological Survey of India, Vol. LXVI, part 2. [Calcutta, 1933]. £50 239 233. Tyndall, John (1820-1893). An ALS to Mr. Swinton, from Alp Lusgen, Brieg, Switzerland, Aug. 10, 1888. £95

8vo. 3pp. on a single sheet, folded with minor splits to folds, small paper tear to third page where sometime attached to a leaf, else in very good condition. A letter responding to a proposal that Hindhead, in Surrey, England, be developed with a view to building a hospital. Tyndall had purchased land in the area: “I bought it for its beauty, & I shall preserve it for its beauty. I have diminished in no way the people’s privileges. They are as free as ever to gather their berries, & to enjoy the region, on the simple condition that they are not to break the fences or damage the heather … I will work steadily with all sane men to improve the condition of the workers of England. But this desirable consummation is only retarded by the theoretic schemes of flighty social reformers. There are things in this world more important here than potatos & cabages [sic]. The American Emerson once said that the head of a barren mountain high above the trees and grass and flowers was ‘pure utility’. If it filled noble minds with a sense of the beautiful and inspired them a pure love of nature, it did something better than fill their bellies. If I had the privilege of meeting Mr. Thompson Kyle, I should say to him that in my opinion Hind Head should be kept free from any such establishment as you think it desirable to place there.”

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 212-234; two plates of photos. and 2 folding maps; corners creased, good in the original printed wrappers, soiled and creased, “Store” inkstamp to upper cover. A presentation copy from the author, signed to the upper cover. A mainly geological paper, but with a section on “The Climbing of Nanga Parbat”.

238. [Wager.] Jane Hargreaves, ed. L. R. Wager. A Life 1904-1965. [Printed for the author, 1991]. £75

First and only edition. 8vo. pp. vii, 141; illusts. to text; a fine copy in the original printed wrappers, signed by editor to title-page. Lawrence Wager participated in the 1933 Everest expedition, and also three expeditions to Greenland (’Gino’ Watkins’ 1930-1 BAARE, Mikkelsen’s Mikki Expedition in 1932 and the 1935-6 British East Greenland Expedition, which he led). This account of his life, based on his letters, MSS and interviews with those who had known him, was compiled by his daughter “mainly for his descendants so that they can come to know more of who he was and what he did in life”.

239. Ward, Michael. In This Short Span. A Mountaineering Memoir. London: Gollancz, 1972. £75

First edition. 8vo. Original cloth, d.j.; pp. 304; illustrations from photographs, 3 sketch maps, map endpapers; VG in oriignal cloth, in d.-w. With the author’s clipped signature tipped-in to the half-title. Neate W19; Yakushi W56; S & B W04; not in Perret. Ward, by training a doctor, organised the 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition and was subsequently selected for the 1953 expedition. The present autobiographical memoir relates details of these expeditions, as well as others to Amadablam and Makalu. Ward’s work on high-altitude physiology proved important to these and other expeditions. The book concludes with an account of Ward’s medical and survey work in Bhutan, with a history and bibliography of the country.

240

241

240. Ward, Michael. Everest. A Thousand Years of Exploration. Ernest Press, 2003. £75

First edition, first issue. 8vo. pp. xxiv, 350; col. frontis., b & w illusts., maps; very good in the original cloth and d.-w. Inscribed by the author to Geoffrey Hattersley-Smith on the title-page. Ward was the Medical Officer on the 1953 Everest expedition; he also organised the 1951 reconnaissance that discovered the southern access to the summit. This excellent overview of the history of Everest - the exploration of the Everest region, and history of attempts - gains from Ward’s interviews with some of the most important names in the subject, including Odell, Noel, Somervell, and later climbers.

241. White, Chas. Three Weeks in the Bernese Oberland. Warrington: Printed at the Guardian Office, n.d. c. 1905. £150 ?First edition. 8vo. pp. 14; very good in the original printed wrappers, ink classmark to upper wrrapper. This unrecorded pamphlet offers the text of White’s lecture before the Warrington Field Club, based on his visits to the region. He discusses aspects of the geology of the Alps, and refers to authorities such as Bonney, Ruskin and Leslie Stephen. The lecture was illustrated with lantern slides, sadly not reproduced in the booklet.

242. [Whymper, Edward.] Ian Smith, ed. The Apprenticeship of a Mountaineer: Edward Whymper’s London Diary 1855-1859. London Record Society, [2008]. £20

First edition. 8vo. pp. xxvi, 251; as new in original cloth, d.-w, signed by the editor. Whymper’s journals, held at the Scott Polar Research Institute, include this early diary of his life in London (Lambeth). Never before published, they contain little of mountaineering interest, but provide a fascinating glimpse of Whymper’s life shortly before he developed his interest in the Alps.

242

244

245

243. [Whymper, Edward.] Ian Smith. Shadow of the Matterhorn. The Life of Edward Whymper. Hildersley: Carreg, 2011. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 336; b & w illusts., some colour illusts.; new in original cloth, d.-w. Signed by the author Ian Smith to title-page. Edward Whymper crowned a meteoric climbing career with the first ascent in 1865 of the last great unclimbed summit in the Alps, the Matterhorn. He then made two expeditions to north west Greenland, and later undertook a successful trip to Ecuador, where he climbed the country’s highest mountains. In the early 1900s, he was invited by the Canadian Pacific Railway to visit and explore the Canadian Rockies - Mount Whymper in the Vermillion Pass area is named after his first ascent of that peak. Not since Frank Smythe’s Edward Whymper (1940) has there been a full biography of the man, and Smith’s excellent life, based on Whymper’s diaries and notebooks as well as material from archives around the world, gives a fuller picture of this artisan from London.

244. Williams, Cicely. Women on the Rope. The Feminine Share in Mountain Adventure. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd., [1973]. £15 First edition. 8vo. pp. 240; illusts.; VG in original cloth, d.-w. Neate W80; Perret 4580. A history of women in mountaineering.

245. Wood, Walter A. A History of Mountaineering in the Saint Elias Mountains. [Vancouver:] Printed by the Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition, [1967]. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. ix, 45; very good in the original printed wrappers. Neate W120. A history of mountaineering in the portion of the St. Elias mountain range that lies north of the 60th parallel of north latitude.

246. Workman, Fanny Bullock & William Hunter Workman. Algerian Memories. A Bicycle Tour over the Atlas to the Sahara. London: T. Fisher Unwin, [1895]. £250

First edition. 8vo. pp. xv, 216; frontis. and illusts. to text; very good in the original pictorial ochre cloth, gilt, t.e.g. The Workmans, the American husband and wife team, visited Europe, Africa and later the Karakoram and Himalaya to satisfy their passion for travel. Keen mountaineers and bicyclists, they tell in Algerian Memories of their journey from Oran via Constantine to Tunis, with excursions to Timgad and Biskra. Of particular value is their account of the Kabylie and Djurjura mountain ranges, and of the Kabyle inhabitants of the region.

247. Workman, William Bullock. ‘Features of Karakoram Glaciers connected with Pressure, especially of Affluents’. Sonderabdruck aus ‘Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde’, Bd. VIII, 1913. Berlin: Gebrüder Borntraeger, [1913]. £150 First separate edition. pp. [65]-103; frontis. and 20 other illusts. after the author’s photos.; very good in the original printed wrappers, inscribed by the author “Dr. H. H. Thomas with compliments of William Hunter Workman”. Workman’s study draws on his and his wife’s explorations in the region, particularly that to Siachen in 1911 and 1912.

248. Wormald, Peter. Enchanted Country. For Private Cerculation [sic] Only, N.d. c. 1945.

£395

8vo. pp. [viii], 48; 5 mounted coloured plates from original watercolour sketches, 6 photo. plates inc. one portrait of the author, one sketch map, each with a captioned glassine tissue overlay; very good in the original grey cloth, titled in gilt to upper cover, unevenly faded on spine and boards. Inscribed on the dedication “Dee with love April ’45”. Not in Yakushi, Neate, Perret; one institutional copy only (National Library of Scotland). This is an account of the author and a friend’s journey up the Jumna valley, with “some light-hearted mountaineering” (Foreword). Wormald and his climbing partner Lolly Leyden were accompanied by two Sherpas and a group of coolies, with equipment that included a tent used on “the Kamet Expedition twelve years before” (p. 16) - presumably a reference to Smythe’s 1931 ascent. They made an unsuccessful attempt on Bandarpunch and a successful climb of Hanuman Peak. The author seems to have been connected with the Himalayan Club, and indeed Wormald contributed once to the Himalayan Journal (‘Another route on Kolahoi’ vol. 16, pp. 117-9, 1951).

36 249. Younghusband, Colonel Sir Francis. Our Position in Tibet. London: Central Asian Society, n.d. c. 1910. £175

First edition. 8vo. pp. 15; very good in the original printed wrappers, which are somewhat fragile with archival tape repair inside upper wrapper, label removed from foot of upper wrapper. Proceedings of the Central Asian Society. This scarce pamphlet reproduces Younghusband’s lecture, read November 2, 1910, regarding British policy in Tibet. Younghusband had led the 1903-4 British mission to Tibet, but his bloody march to Lhasa exceeded his instructions, and official responses to the mission were hostile. Perhaps for this reason, Younghusband opens his lecture with the words “It was only after I had sat down to write this paper on our position in Tibet, that I realized that I had no idea what our position is”. He goes on to relate the various developments in Tibet since his mission, and recommends that Britain play no role as such in the region, but that it should not ignore developments there.

250. Younghusband, Sir Francis. ‘The Mount Everest Expedition [Abstract].’ An offprint from the Royal Institution of Great Britain, Weekly Evening Meeting, Friday, February 3, 1922. £25 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 3; very good in self-wrappers. A brief description of the projected 1922 attempt.

250

BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES

Alpine Club Library Catalogue 1982 – Alpine Club, London Alpine Club Library Catalogue Books and Periodicals (London: Heinemann, 1982) Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering – James R. Cox. Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering and Mountain Travel: from the Francis P. Farquhar Collection of Mountaineering Literature. An Annotated Bibliography. Annotations and introductory essay by Nicholas B. Clinch, James R. Cox, and Muir Dawson (Los Angeles: University of California Library, 1980) Czech – Kenneth P. Czech. An Annotated Bibliography of Asian Big Game Hunting Books, 1780 to 1980 (St. Cloud, Minn.: Land’s End Press, 2003) Graham Brown & Lloyd Collections – Mountaineering Catalogue of the Graham Brown and Lloyd Collections in the National Library of Scotland (Edinburgh: National Library of Scotland, 1994) Le Montagne per Gioco – Aldo Audisio & Ulrich Schädler, eds. Le Montagne per Gioco tra le vette e le nevi dei giochi da tavolo (2 vols., Turin: Museo Nazionale della Montagna, 2006) Meckly – Eugene P. Meckly ‘A Bibliography of Privately Printed Mountaineering Books A Revision’ (Alpine Journal, vol. 96, 340, 1991, pp. 196-208) Meckly – Eugene P. Meckly Mont Blanc The Early Years A Bibliography of Printed Books from 1744 to 1860 (Asheville, North Carolina: Daniels Graphics, 1995) Moss et al. - Alan Moss, Peter Haigh & Nigel Baker Alpine and European Climbing Guidebooks 1863-2013 A Collector’s Guide (Leeds: Green Woods, 2014) Nava – Monte Bianco 1786/1986 descrizione, tentativi, ascensioni dal 1669 al 1900 dai libri di Piero Nava (Bergamo: the author, 1986) Neate – Jill Neate Mountaineering Literature. A Bibliography of Material Published in English (Milnthorpe: Cicerone Press; Seattle: Mountainbooks, 1986) Perret - Jacques Perret. Guides des Livres sur la Montagne et l’Alpinisme (Grenoble: Editions de Belledome, 1997) Renard – Julien G. R. Renard Major Collections of Antarctica (Collingwood, Australia: Gaston Renard, 1994) Rosove - Michael R. Rosove Antarctica, 1772-1922. Freestanding Publications through 1999 [and] Additions and Corrections Supplement to the Rosove Antarctic Bibliography (Santa Monica, California: Adélie Books, 2001 & 2008) Sadleir – Michael Sadleir Trollope: a bibliography (London: Constable, 1928) S & B - Audrey Salkeld & John Boyle. Climbing Mount Everest. The Bibliography. The literature and history of climbing the world’s highest mountain (Clevedon, Avon: Sixways Publishing, 1993) Singer & Gould – Armand E. Singer and Robert F. Gould. A Catalog of Himalayan Mountaineering Correspondence (with estimations of rarity) (2nd ed., ?Santa Monica, CA: George Alevizos, c. 2002) Spence – [Sydney A. Spence] J. J. H. & J. I. Simper, eds. Antarctic Miscellany: books, Periodicals & Maps relating to the Discovery and Exploration of Antarctica (2nd ed., London, 1980)

Taurus - The Taurus Collection. 150 Collectable Books on the Antarctic. A Bibliography ed. Julian McKenzie. Notes by Richard Kossow (The Travellers Bookshop, London, 2001) Theakstone - John Theakstone Victorian and Edwardian Women Travellers. A Bibliography of Books published in English (Mansfield Centre, CT: Martino, 2006) Yakushi - Yoshio Yakushi Catalogue of Himalayan Literature (2nd ed., Tokyo: Hakusuisha Publishing, 1984; 3rd ed., 1994) Young, A Record of the Scientific Work of John Tyndall – H. Young, ed. A Record of the Scientific Work of John Tyndall D.C.L.., LL.D., F.R.S. (1850-1888) (Printed for Private Circulation at the Chiswick Press London, 1935) Wäber – A.Wäber Bibliographie der Schweizerischen Landeskunde (Bern: K. J. Wyss, 1892-1896; reprinted by Maurizio Martino, Staten Island, NY, c. 1995)

213

170

135

229

246