a product message image
{' '} {' '}
Limited time offer
SAVE % on your upgrade

Page 1

from the alps to the himalayas


Meridian Rare Books PO Box 51650 London SE8 4XW United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0) 208 694 2168 Mobile: +44 (0) 7912 409 821 info@meridianrarebooks.co.uk www.meridianrarebooks.co.uk VAT Reg. No.: GB 919 1146 28

Our books are collated in full and our descriptions aim to be accurate. We can provide further information and images of any item on request. If you wish to view an item from this catalogue, please contact us to make suitable arrangements. All prices are nett pounds sterling. VAT will be charged within the EU on the price of any item not in a binding. Postage is additional and will be charged at cost. Any book may be returned if unsatisfactory, in which case please advise us in advance. The present catalogue offers a selection of our stock. To receive a full listing of books in your area of interest, please enquire.

ŠMeridian Rare Books 2020


from the alps to the himalayas A selection from stock


Welcome to this selection of mountaineering books, taken from some of the collections we’ve handled in the last few years, with a smattering of more recent acquisitions. These represent only a portion from our inventory, and if you do not find what you are looking for here please send details and we will be happy to quote you other items from stock, or to let you know when a book comes into stock. In the meantime, we hope that you enjoy the current selection. Stuart Leggatt

Contents The Alps Items 1-118 The Himalaya and Karakoram Items 119-214 Other Ranges and general Items 215-225

Recent Catalogues

travel & exploration

the polar regions

catalogue twenty two

catalogue twenty one

Catalogue 21: The Polar Regions

Catalogue 22: Travel & Exploration


the alps

1 1. Aeby, Christoph, von Fellenberg, Edmund, & Gerwer, Rudolf. Das Hochgebirge von Grindelwald. Naturbilder aus der Schweizerischen Alpenwelt. Coblenz: Karl Baedeker, 1865. £750

First edition. 8vo. pp. lxv, 150, [1, index]; folding coloured litho. panorama frontis. of the mountains of Grindelwald, three tinted lithos., one folding map, illusts. to text; mild foxing to margins of plates, else very good in contemporary quarter cloth with papered boards, original pictorial wrapper mounted to front board, minor wear to spine and extremities. Bookplate of Frederick Gardiner. Wäber I.142; Perret 1603. Christoph Aeby (1835-85) was a Swiss anatomist, and an enthusiastic climber. This volume records his ascents of the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Eiger, and other peaks with von Fellenberg and Gerwer. These three peaks feature in the illustrations, and the particularly fine frontispiece shows the mountains of Grindelwald. This copy bears the bookplate of Frederick Gardiner, probably the Alpine Club member who made a series of successful climbs in the 1870s and 1880s, including the first guideless ascent of the Jungfrau.

2. Alpine Club. Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers. A Series of Excursions by Members of the Alpine Club. Ed. John Ball. London: Longman, Green, Longman, & Roberts, 1860. £75

Fifth edition (‘Knapsack’ edition). 8vo. pp. xv, 328; 8 maps; very good in contemporary full calf prize binding for King’s College, London, with crest in gilt to upper boards, rubbed to extremities. Neate A32. This fifth edition of collected essays by members of the Alpine Club was issued in a handy pocket size for ease of transport.

1

3. Alpine Club. Peaks, Passes and Glaciers by Members of the Alpine Club Third Series. Eds. A. E. Field and Sydney Spencer. London: Methuen & Co. Ltd., [1932]. £125

First edition. 8vo. pp. xi, 307, 8 (ads.); 16 photo. illusts.; spotting to foreedge, else a very good copy in the original brown cloth gilt, vignette in gilt to upper cover, in the original dust-wrapper, which is worn, with fading and soiling to spine. Neate A36. The first two series of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers appeared in 1859 and 1862, and offered accounts of some of the climbing experiences and achievements of early members of the Alpine Club. This third series reprints some of the more notable articles from the first 5 volumes of the Alpine Journal, with records of ascents by Kennedy, Moore, Mathews, Grove, Coolidge, Freshfield, and others.

3

2

4 4. Anderson, Eustace. Chamouni and Mont Blanc: A Visit to the Valley and an Ascent of the Mountain in the Autumn of 1855. London: James Cornish, 1856. £675 First edition. Small 8vo. pp. [vi], 113; folding chromolithograph frontis. view, one other plate; foxing to plates, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, darkened on spine, neatly restored to head and tail of spine. Neate A47; Nava H/4; Meckly 003; Perret 0103. Anderson (1819-1889), a solicitor, made the ascent of Mont Blanc in 1855 with E. T. Coleman, artist and Alpine Club member . Though an original member of the Alpine Club, climbing at the start of the Golden age of Alpinism, Anderson is today considered to belong to the previous generation, and indeed his climbing career was fairly short.


5. [Atkins, Henry Martin.] Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc, on the 22nd and 23rd of August, 1837. Not Published, Calkin & Budd, London, 1838. £750

[Second issue]. 8vo. pp. iii [recte iv], [5]-49, [1], [1, “Statement of all the Ascents”]; litho. frontis., five b&w lithographic plates; ownership inscription to rear endpaper, some foxing to plates (occasionally heavy), else very good in the original brown cloth, lettered in gilt to upper cover, minor uneven fading, slightly chipped to spine. Neate A72; Meckly 005; Perret 0161. Atkins (1818-1842) made the twenty-fourth ascent of Mont Blanc, describing the experience in a letter to his brother. The letter was well received back in England, and Atkins’ uncle, J. G. Cooke, “decided to print a few copies for private circulation only” (‘Introduction’, which is initialled J. G. C.). Atkins himself was still abroad and unable to revise the work, but it seems likely that on his return he was able to supply illustrations which furnished the plates for this subsequent issue and later versions of his narrative. This copy is arguably the latest version of Atkins’s narrative: The title-page prints the publishers’ names (Calkin and Budd, probably responsible for the previous issue of the same year, without illustrations), and the verso for the first time gives the printer’s name. The text has occasionally been reset. The lithographic plates - excepting the frontispiece bear the initials “H.M.A.” at the lower left corner.

6. Ball, John. The Alpine Guide [Volume I:] The Western Alps. Ed. W. A. B. Coolidge. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1898. £75

2

New edition [first edition thus]. 8vo. pp. xlix, [i, list of maps], 612; 10 folding maps on linen stubs; heavy browning at front and rear, slightly shaken in the original beige cloth, lettered in black, slightly browned on spine, small snag to foot of lower joint. Ownership inscription of Basil R. Goodfellow, 1927, to half-title (affected by marginal browning of the leaf). Neate B32; Perret 0234; Moss et al. AL033. Ball’s Alpine Guides were revised and reissued in the 1890s, and Coolidge edited the first volume to appear. The text includes numerous insertions due to Coolidge and various correspondents, updating or expanding information in Ball’s original guide. This copy formerly belonged to Basil R. Goodfellow, a prominent member of the Alpine Club who climbed in the Alps from the 1930s onwards with such figures as T. Graham Brown, André Roch, and others; he is best remembered for his role in organising the British Everest expeditions of 1951 and 1953, and was instrumental in promoting John Hunt as leader and a replacement for Eric Shipton on the successful 1953 Everest expedition.

7. Ball, John. Hints and Notes practical and scientific for Travellers in the Alps. Being a revision of the General Introduction to the ‘Alpine Guide’. A new edition prepared on behalf of the Alpine Club by W. A. B. Coolidge. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1899. £95

First edition thus. 8vo. pp. clxiv, [3, ads.]; very good in the original printed boards, bumped to head and tail of spine. Neate B24; Perret 1108; Moss et al. AL034. The 1863 edition of Ball’s A Guide to the Western Alps, the first of the Alpine Guides that appeared under his name, contained a long introduction which offered general hints and notes for climbers. In 1864 it was published separately as Introduction to the Alpine Guide. In the 1890s, W. A. B. Coolidge undertook a revision of the Ball guides for the Alpine Club, and heavily revised the Introduction, which was published in the present form, now uncommon.

8 8. Barry, Martin. Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc, 16th-18th of 9th Month (SEPTR.), 1834. No place, no date [1835].

£750

First edition, first issue. 8vo. pp. 40; two lithographic frontis. printed on india paper; spotting to plates, else very good in the original boards, paper label to spine, wear with loss to paper on spine. A presentation copy, inscribed to front pastedown “Captn. Walker Presented with Mr. T. Barry’s respects”. Neate B49; Nava F/3; Meckly 014; Perret 0275. Barry (1802-1855) made the twenty-first ascent of Mont Blanc, and his account first appeared in this unpublished version. Even so, bibliographers have noticed two variants, distinguished by the capitalisation of the month on the title-page - ‘SEPTR.’ or ‘Septr.’ - though without being able to determine order of priority. Comparison of the two versions reveals at p. 38, line 8, a further difference: in the ‘SEPTR.’ issue, the line begins “the Hospice of the Great St. Bernard”; in the ‘Septr.’ issue, this line begins “at the Hospice of the Great St. Bernard”. Arguably, the latter is a correction, and presumably therefore a later issue.

10


9

9. Barry, Martin. Ascent to the Summit of Mont Blanc in 1834. Edinburgh: William Blackwood & Sons; London: T. Cadell, 1836.

£575

[Second edition.] 8vo. pp. [iv], iv, 119; 2 hand-coloured litho. front., one extending panorama; spotting to panorama which also has repairs to folds, else very good in recent crushed half morocco, gilt. Neate B49; Nava F/4; Meckly 014; Perret 0275. Barry published the second, or perhaps ‘trade’ edition, of his work in the form of two lectures delivered at the Edinburgh Royal Infirmary in March 1836. The additional material includes information relating to the effects of high altitude on bodily function, and a short history of attempts on Mont Blanc.

3

10. Beattie, William. Switzerland. Illustrated in a Series of Views taken expressly for this work by W. H. Bartlett, Esq. London: George Virtue, [1836]. £1,500 27 original parts. 4to. pp. [i, title-page], iv, [ii, contents], 188 & [iv], 152; 2 vignette title-pages, 106 steel-engraved plates, one folding map; minor creasing to tissue-guards, else very good in the original printed wrappers, a little occasional fraying or soiling, tape repair to tear in upper wrapper of part VI, else very good. Wäber 69; Perret 0322. Beattie (1793-1875), a Scottish physician and writer, travelled on the Continent in the early 1820s as attendant to the family of the Duke of Clarence (later William IV). In 1832 he met William Henry Bartlett (1809-1854), the topographical artist, and asked him to prepare the illustrations for a projected work on Switzerland. The resulting volume - Switzerland. Illustrated in a Series of Views - was published by Virtue, and contains Beattie’s text on the history and topography of the country, alongside over one hundred steel engravings after Bartlett’s originals. The work was originally issued in parts, intended to be bound up into two volumes, and sets in the original parts, as here, are exceptionally scarce. The wrappers to each part contain information not found otherwise - a running caption to each part that reads ‘The Tourist’s Guide through the Swiss and Italian Cantons’, and a list of subscribers to the work on the rear wrapper of part 1 that includes the Queen, and more than 300 others. A slip tipped-in to the final part claims that the total number of subscribers exceeded 20,000!


11. Bernard, Richard Boyle. A Tour through some Parts of France, Switzerland, Savoy, Germany and Belgium, during the Summer and Autumn of 1814. London: Printed for Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, and Brown, 1815. £375

First edition. 8vo. pp. 16 (pubs. cat.), xx, 336, 16 (pubs. cat.); minor spotting, else very good and untrimmed in modern crushed half morocco, contrasting lettering labels. Wäber 56; Meckly 018. Boyle (1787-1850) was an Anglo-Irish MP, who in 1815, shortly after the Continental tour described in the present work, vacated his seat and took up holy orders. “Pages 120-138 deal in considerable detail with the valley of Chamonix, the Montanvert, the Mer de Glace, and Mont Blanc and its height” (Meckly).

11

12

4

12. [Berne & the Bernese Alps.] Souvenir de Berne et de ses Environs [so titled to upper cover]. Zürich: R. Dikenman, n.d. c. 1850s.

£1,250

A contemporary souvenir album containing 13 hand-coloured aquatint plates, each approx. 108 x 70mm. (overall plate size 195 x 135mm.), heightened with egg tempera; one plate sometime loosened with marginal creases and tears (not affecting image), occasional finger-soiling, contemporary presentation inscription in Scandinavian with a quotation in English, dated “Thün 24de April 1856”, mostly very good in contemporary green pebbled cloth gilt, worn to extremities. A most attractive collection, this souvenir booklet contains views of the city of Berne and of the Bernese Oberland. The plates are captioned as follows: “Berne prise de l’Engi”; “Thoune vers le Joungfrau Blumlisalp et le Niessen”; “Vue de Thoune et de l’Hôtel et Pension de Bellevue”; Thoune vers l’Eiger, Mönch et le Joungfrau”; “Interlaken vers le Joungfrau”; “Giessbach”; “Reichenbach, chûte supérieure”; “Chûte de l’Aar à la Handeck”; “Glacier de Rosenlauy et les monts Well & Wetterhorn”; “Vue du Glacier de Rosenlaui dessiné à son pied”; “Village et glacier de Grindelwald”; “Vue de Wetterhorn, Schrekhorn, Finsteraarhorn et les deux glaciers de Grindelwald”; “Wengernalp vers l’Eiger, Mönch et Joungfrau”.

13

13. [Berne & the Bernese Alps.] Souvenir de Berne et de ses Environs. Lac de Thoune, l’Oberland etc. [so titled to upper cover]. Zürich: R. Dikenman, n.d. c. 1850s. £1,250

A collection of 16 uncoloured aquatint plates, each approx. 108 x 70mm. (overall plate size 180 x 135mm.), very good and clean in original printed paper boards, a little scuffed, broken on spine. Another collection of plates by Dikenman, this time uncoloured, and partly duplicating images in the previous collection. The views in this booklet are captioned as follows: “Berne prise de l’Engi”; “Berne, vue vers le nouveau pont de Nydeck”; “Thoune vers le Joungfrau Blumlisalp et le Niessen”; “Interlaken vers le Joungfrau”; “Brienz”; “Giessbach”; “Reichenbach, chûte supérieure”; “Chûte de l’Aar à la Handeck”; “Glacier de Rosenlauy et les monts Well & Wetterhorn”; “Les Bains de Rosenlaui”; “Vue du Glacier de Rosenlaui dessiné à son pied”; “Village et glacier de Grindelwald”; “Vue de Wetterhorn, Schrekhorn, Finsteraarhorn et les deux glaciers de Grindelwald”; “Glacier inférieur de Grindelwald et l’Eiger”; “Wengernalp vers l’Eiger, Mönch et Joungfrau”; “Vue du Staubbach”.


14 14. [Bernese Oberland.] Souvenir de l’Oberland bernois [so titled to upper board]. Lucerne chez Jos. Schürmann, n.d. c. 1860.

£750

Oblong 4to. 12 tinted lithographs; some foxing to one plate (Grindelwald), light foxing to two further plates, ex libris to front pastedown, else very good in the original publisher’s cloth-backed printed boards, large stain to upper board. This uncommon collection of plates - we can locate only one institutional copy, in the Swiss National Library - contains views of Berne, Thun, Interlaken, the Giessbach, Reichenbach, Staubbach and Handeck falls, Grindelwald with the Wetterhorn, a view of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, a view of the Wetterhorn and Wellhorn, the Rhone glacier, and the Grimsel hospice.

15. Bonatti, Walter. The Great Days. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1974.

£100

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 189; photo. illusts.; near-fine in original cloth, in d.-w. (very slightly rubbed). Neate B124; Perret 0546. Bonatti’s second volume of autobiography relates his experiences of the disaster on the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc group, and his solo climb of the Matterhorn in 1965 (following which he retired from professional climbing).

5 15

16 16. Bourrit, Marc-Theodore. A Relation of a Journey to the Glaciers, in the Dutchy of Savoy. Norwich: Printed by Richard Beatniffe, 1775.  £1,250

First edition. 8vo. pp. [48, inc. engraved dedication], xxi, 264, [2]; 3 engraved plates; slight spotting to engraved plates, else very good with the bookplates of George White and Oscar V. Viney in contemporary full calf, recently and neatly rebacked to style, gilt motifs to spine, contrasting lettering piece, minor wear to corners. Neate B142; Perret 0656. Translated from the Swiss edition of 1773. By profession the Precentor of Geneva cathedral, Bourrit (1739-1819) devoted the greater part of his time to travelling in the Alps, particularly in the Chamonix region. Despite several attempts, he never succeeded in attaining the summit of Mont Blanc. His illustrations appeared in his own works and also in those of others, notably in de Saussure’s Voyages dans les Alpes which, ironically, relates de Saussure’s own successful ascent of Mont Blanc. The present work narrates a journey from Geneva to Chamonix, with an ascent of the Buet. This edition includes among the subscribers listed in the preliminary pages Samuel Johnson, Charles Burney and David Garrick.


17 17. Bourrit, Marc-Théodore. Description des Alpes Pennines et Rhetiennes [with] Nouvelle Description des Glacieres et Glaciers de Savoye, particulièrement de la vallée de Chamouni & du Mont-Blanc, & de la dernière découverte d’une route pour parvenir sur cette haute montagne. Geneva: J. P. Bonnant [or] Paul Barde, 1781 & 1785. £3,000

First editions thus. First work: 2 vols. 8vo. pp. xix, 247 & [iv], 285; 8 eng. plates, one folding map. Second work: 8vo. pp. [xvi], 308; 5 eng. plates; minor discolouration to endpapers, else fine in uniform contemporary French green half calf, contrasting lettering pieces to spines, paper label to foot of each spine, now contained in a purpose-made fall-down back green solander box. Provenance: The La Rochefoucauld copy, with Chateau de la Roche Guyon inkstamp to each title-page; purchased at the Rochefoucauld sale, Monaco, 1987. Wäber 40; Nava B/1 (first work; cf. B/2 for second work); Meckly 026 (first work); Perret 0658, 0660 (part). The first two volumes offered here describe Bourrit’s travels in the Valais and in the Pennine and Rhaetian Alps, with particular details of his investigations of the region’s glaciers such as the Rhone, and of the passes (Grimsel, St. Gothard). The second work, Nouvelle Description, describes the various attempts to reach the summit of Mont Blanc. The two titles were offered as a three-volume work in 1785 under the title Nouvelle description générale et particulière des Glacières; offered here are the original two-volume first edition of the first work, and the third volume of the 1785 work in its first appearance from the collected edition. (The Nouvelle Description was also available as a separate work, in which form it contains a map; this appeared in the first volume of the collected edition, so is not present in our set.)

18. Brown, T. Graham. Brenva. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., [1944]. £125

6

First edition. 8vo. pp. xv, 228; b&w photo. illusts., sketch map; very good in the original cloth, t.e.g., in d.-w. which is somewhat rubbed and frayed. Signed by the author to flyleaf “T. Graham Brown fecit: Feb. 17. 1945”. Neate B188; Perret 0732. The author’s account of the first ascent of three new routes on the Brenva face of Mont Blanc.

19. Browna, T. Graham & Gavin de Beer. First Ascent of Mont Blanc. Published on the occasion of the Centenary of the Alpine Club. Oxford University Press, 1957. £250

18

19

First edition. 8vo. pp. x, 460; photo. illusts. and illusts. to text, one doublepage map; foxing at front and rear, else very good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is slightly chipped to head and tail of spine. Neate B189. This thorough examination of the first ascent proved Dr. Paccard’s claims beyond doubt. The authors also provide a definitive history of the early ascents of Mont Blanc.

20. Carr, Glyn. Murder on the Matterhorn. London: Geoffrey Bles, [1951]. £250

First edition. 8vo. pp. 238; very good in the original cloth, in the original dust-wrapper, which is a little frayed to extrems. with a price sticker to the centre of the spine and tape at the head. Signed by the author to the title-page. Neate X77. Carr, better known as Showell Styles, used the pseudonym for his fiction writing. This novel was the second in his Abercrombie Lewker series. Signed copies are uncommon.

21. Cassin, Riccardo. 50 Years of Alpinism. London: Diadem Books; Seattle: The Mountaineers, [1981]. £25

20

21

First edition. 8vo. pp. 207; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, d.-w. Neate C21; Yakushi C76b; Perret 0861. “Cassin is one of the finest twentieth century mountaineers. His Alpine conquests included two fine Dolomite ascents and the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses. He has also led important expeditions to the Himalayas, Mt. McKinley, and Peru” (Neate).


22. Charpentier, Jean de. Essai sur les glaciers et sur le terrain erratique du bassin du Rhone. Lausanne: Marc Ducloux, 1841.

£775

First edition. 8vo. pp. [iv], x, 362; folding partly hand-coloured engraved map, 8 lithographed plates, diagrams in the text; occasional light staining to upper margins, else very good in contemporary quarter calf, gilt, original upper wrapper retained, small split at foot of lower joint. An association copy, inscribed on the front wrapper “à Monsieur Werdmüller de la part de M. de Charpentier par l’entremise de M. Morlot”, and with a few pencilled marginalia. Norman 462; D.S.B. III, p. 211; Perret 0955. The first edition of this pioneer work on glaciology. Although Louis Agassiz is usually credited with originating the theory of the Ice Age, the true progenitor of glacial geology was Charpentier (1786-1855), who began studying glaciers after the Glacier de Giétroz disaster of 1818, in which a lake dammed by the glacier burst through the ice. By studying the Rhone Valley and the huge blocks of granite scattered mysteriously throughout it from the Alps to the Jura, Charpentier confirmed the theory proposed in 1821 by his friend Venetz, that these so-called “erratic” (i.e. unconformable) blocks could only have been moved by the action of glaciers, which must have arisen after the formation of the Alps since many of the blocks were mineralogically identical to rocks found in some Alpine peaks.

23. Coaz, J. Die Lavinen der Schweizeralpen. Bern: J. Dalp, 1881. £225

First edition. 8vo. p. iv, 147; 5 folding tables, 8 engraved plates, illusts. to text, one folding map and three folding charts at rear; very good in contemporary cloth-backed papered boards, gilt, a little faded on spine. Not in Wäber or Perret. Johann Wilhelm Fortunat Coaz (1822-1918) made several important first ascents in the Alps, including the Piz Bernina in 1850. He also undertook various researches in botany, meteorology, and avalanches, and the present work presents his findings both in terms of the causes of avalanches, and surveys of events. The plates show the aftermath of several incidents, and the folding map offers an ‘avalanche-chart’ of the Gotthard region.

23

24. Conway, W. M.; August Lorria, ed. Die Penninischen Alpen. Ein Führer für Bergsteiger durch das Gebiet der Penninishen Alpen zwischen Simplon und Grossen St. Bernhard … bearbeitet und herausgegeben von August Lorria. Zürich: Orell Füssli & Co., 1891.  £250

7

First edition. 8vo. pp. [vii], 204; slight foxing, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, a little soiled. Wäber II.78; not in Perret. This is effectively the German edition and revision of Conway’s Zermatt Pocket Book, with a statement in English to that effect by Conway at the start of the book. Conway’s book was the first ever guide book to the Alps. Lorria was later also the author, with Oscar Eckenstein, of the Alpine Portfolio.

25. Conway, Sir William Martin. The Alps from End to End. Westminster: Archibald Constable and Co., 1895. £125

First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 403; frontis., title-page vignette and 98 plates after originals by A. D. McCormick; bookplate of Harold A. Beeching, minor foxing at front and rear, very good in the original two-tone cloth, gilt, slightly faded to spine and along upper margin of boards. Wäber II.24; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 20; Neate C101; Perret 1087. In 1904 Conway traversed the length of the Alps, from the Mediterranean to the Austrian Alps, accompanied throughout by two Gurkha soldiers who had returned with Conway from his Karakoram expedition of 1892. The party was also joined at various points by E. A. FitzGerald, who brought with him two guides including Louis Carrel, and Mattias Zurbriggen, who had also participated in the Karakoram expedition.

24

25

26. Coolidge, W. A. B. Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide-Books. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1889. £350

First edition. 8vo. pp. xi, 336, 16 (ads.); age-toning to margins of ad. leaves, else very good in the original cloth, gilt. Wäber I.4; Neate C129; Perret 1098. Coolidge’s bibliographic study contains valuable comments concerning the literature surveyed, but also includes a chapter on “How Zermatt became a mountaineering centre.”

26


27. Cosmorama. Cosmorama Panoramic Exhibition, 209, Regent Street. (Five Doors North of Conduit Street.). Descriptive Catalogue of the Gallery of Europe and America. London: Printed by A. A. Paris, 1823. £450

First edition. 8vo. pp. 12, later period-style plain wrappers. Altick, The Shows of London, p. 211. The Cosmorama was an indoor version of the old peepshow, using well-executed small oil paintings and mirrors to create the effect of perspective. The first London exhibition opened in 1820 but moved to Regent Street in May 1823 where adequate natural lighting was available. During the first few years, scenes were changed once a month. The present catalogue contains descriptions of seven exhibits, of which the first and longest is devoted to a view of Mont Blanc (pp. 3-5). There follow two descriptions of the Palace of Versailles, one of the Palace of the Sultana Hadidge in Constantinople, “The Passage of the Quindu in the Andes”, and two descriptions of Cordova and its cathedral. This catalogue was issued several times in the 1820s, but we have found no copy of the present version in any institutional holding.

27

8

28. [Costume.] Reinhardt, Johann Christian. A Collection of Swiss Costumes, in Miniature, designed by Reinhardt. London: James Goodwin, n.d. [1828]. £2,750

[Later edition - title-page watermarked 1828.] Small 4to. 4ll. [title-pages and list of plates in English and in French], hand-coloured aquatint frontis., 29 further hand-coloured plates, each accompanied by two leaves of explanatory text in England and in French, minor offsetting of plates to facing blanks, previous owner’s inscription at front, else near-fine in contemporary full red straight-grained morocco, borders in gilt, raised bands to spine with gilt decoration to three compartments, a.e.g., a handsome copy. Colas 2531. One of the most popular and beautiful of the early Swiss costume books. Reinhardt (1761-1847) gave up his theological studies to become an artist, settling in Rome as a landscape painter. This collection of his Swiss costumes first appeared in 1822, but was reissued in undated editions from about 1825. The illustrations show inhabitants of the various cantons in scenic views, with accompanying text.

29. Cunningham, C. D. & W. de W. Abney. The Pioneers of the Alps. London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle, and Rivington, 1887. £875

First edition. Folio. pp. xi, 287; twenty-four photogravure portraits including dedication leaf, one full-page illustration of ice-axes, illusts. to text; very good in the original red cloth, gilt, t.e.g., bumped to extremities, a little faded on spine and on adjacent area of upper board. Wäber I.105; Neate C156; Perret 1173. A beautifully evocative record of the silver age of Alpinism. The list of entries - Melchior Anderegg, Christian Almer, François Dévouassoud, Jean-Antoine Carrel, Emile Rey, and others - is a roll call of the most important Alpine guides of the later nineteenth century. Superb portrait photogravures accompany each biography in this wonderfully produced volume. A second edition, in slightly smaller format, was published the following year (see next item).

29


30. Cunningham, C. D. & W. de W. Abney. The Pioneers of the Alps. London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle, and Rivington, 1888. £475

Second edition. Folio. pp. viii, 180; twenty-three photogravure portraits including dedication leaf, one full-page illustration of ice-axes, illusts. to text; minor foxing, else very good in original red cloth, gilt. Wäber I.105; Neate C156; Perret 1173. The second edition of the preceding book is in a smaller format.

31. Dent, Clinton. Above the Snow Line. Mountaineering Sketches between 1870 and 1880. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1885.£250 First edition. 8vo. pp. xiv, 327; three wood-eng. plates inc. frontis.; nearfine in the original cloth, gilt, a few minor marks, rubbed to head and tail of spine. Provenance: Ownership inscription of Arthur Evans, February 1887, and the subsequent inscription “Presented to Wm. Ernest Corlett by his relations April 1892”. Wäber I.104; Neate D19; Perret 1286. Clinton Thomas Dent (18501912), one of the foremost climbers of his day, provides here a record of his climbs, including the first ascent of the Aiguille du Dru in 1878. This copy contains a particularly tragic association: originally owned by Arthur Evans, it was presented to William Corlett following Evans’ death when the two men were climbing on Lliwedd in North Wales (the episode is related in the Abraham brothers’ Rock-Climbing in North Wales).

30

31

32. Desmaison, René. Total Alpinism. London: Granada, [1982].£50

First English edition. 8vo. pp. [vi], 202; photo. illusts.; near-fine in original cloth, d.-w. Neate D22; Perret 1302 & 1303. Desmaison’s achievements in the Alps were recorded in his books La montagne à mains nues (1971) and 342 heures dans les Grandes Jorasses (1973), both of which form the basis for this English edition.

33. Desor, E. Nouvelles Excursions et Séjours dans les Glaciers et les Hautes Régions des Alpes, de M. Agassiz et de ses compagnons de voyage. Neuchatel: Kissling; Paris: Maison, 1845. £450

First edition. 12mo. pp. viii, 266; folding map frontis. and two other folding plates; minor foxing, else very good in modern cloth with leather lettering piece to spine, original wrapper mounted to upper cover. Wäber I.77; Perret 1314. Edouard Desor (1811-1882) met Louis Agassiz at Neuchâtel in 1837, and joined him on visits to the Alps to study glaciers and other phenomena. He summarised these travels in Excursions et Séjours dans les Glaciers (1844). The present work is a continuation of the 1844 book, with further accounts of scientific work with Agassiz in the Alps, and a description of Desor’s 1844 ascent of the Rosenhorn summit of the Wetterhorn.

32

33

34. Desor, E. Agassiz’ und seiner Freunde geologische Alpenreisen in der Schweiz, Savoyen und Piemont. Unter Agassiz’, Studer’s und Carl Vogt’s Mitwirkung verfaßt von E. Desor. Ed. C. Vogt. Frankfurt am Main: Literarische Anstalt, 1847. £275

Second edition. 8vo. pp. xxxvi, 672; 2 plates of specimens, one plan and one folding geological map; very good in contemporary half calf, gilt, book label of the Library of Uppsala University to front pastedown, a little faded on spine. Wäber I.77; Perret 4495 (“Rare”). Carl Vogt (1817-1895) worked with Louis Agassiz and Edouard Desor in their researches into palæontology and glacial phenomena in the Alps. In 1844 Vogt edited the German edition of Desor’s Excursions et Séjours dans les Glaciers of that year. He expanded it in this second edition three years later to include the journeys made in 1844 and described by Desor in his Nouvelles Excursions (see previous item). The book includes a preliminary overview of glaciology by Bernhard Studer, and a description by Vogt himself of the chief Alpine mountain groups.

34

35

35. Ducommun, J.-C. Une Excursion au Mont-Blanc. Avec Trois Planches. Geneva & Basle: Libraire H. Georg, 1859. £200

Second edition, the first appeared in 1858. 8vo. pp. 32; 3 etched plates; a very good copy in the original printed wrappers, which are a little chipped. Nava K/2; Meckly 066 (first edition); Perret 1417; Wäber p. 183. An account of the author’s attempt on Mont Blanc in July, 1858. The three plates show the ascent of the Dôme, Les Rochers Rouges and the Aiguille de Goûter.

36. Durham, W. E. Summer Holidays in the Alps 1898-1914. London: T. Fisher Unwin, Ltd., [1916]. £50

First edition. Royal 8vo. pp. 207; plates from photos.; hinges slightly tender, else good in the original green cloth, gilt, bumped to extrems. partially affecting contents. Neate D60; Perret 1459. Durham (1857-1921) was an enthusiastic Alpinist. He here describes his climbs among the Western Alps, including several ascents on Zermatt. He died in a rock-climbing accident on Tryfan, North Wales.

36

9


37

38

37. Ebel, Johann Gottfried. Manuel du Voyageur en Suisse. Paris: Audin, 1826. £150

10

“Nouvelle Edition.” 8vo. pp. [iv, list of Auberges, Observations], [vi], xcix, 620; occasional browning, else very good in contemporary half morocco, gilt, slightly rubbed. Provenance: Bookplate of Horace Walker to front pastedown (slightly damaged). Wäber I.46 & 61; Perret 1474. Ebel (1764-1830) was a Frankfurt doctor who visited Switzerland in 1790. The country fascinated him, and he spent the next three years travelling there, resulting in the publication of his Anleitung auf die nützlichste und genussvollste Art in der Schweitz zu reisen (Zurich, 1793). This work, the first major guide to Switzerland, was subsequently published in French (1795) and English (1818), and became the main source for other guide books well into the nineteenth century. The present example is one of the many unauthorised editions, this by the Parisian publisher Audin. According to the ‘Avis’ or notice at the front, the edition was furnished with Keller’s map of Switzerland, which - as with other guides to Italy and France advertised in the ‘Avis’ - could either be bound in or carried separately. There is no indication that the map was ever bound in to this copy, which formerly belonged to the mountaineer Horace Walker (1838-1908, President of the Alpine Club from 1891-3, who made the first ascent of Mount Elbrus in the Caucasus).

38. Forbes, John. A Physician’s Holiday or a Month in Switzerland in the Summer of 1848. John Murray, Albemarle Street; John Churchill, Princes Street, Soho, 1850. £275 Second revised edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 350, [2, Critical Notices of the Physician’s Holiday], [32, publisher’s catalogue, dated January 1851]; lithograph frontispiece, 3 tinted lithographs, 1 woodcut to letterpress, 1 folding map; light embrowning to margins, else very good in the original red cloth, gilt, slight wear to extremities, soiling to spine. Wäber I.79; Abbey Travel 64; Meckly 074; Perret 1712. Forbes (17871861) was court physician to Prince Albert and the Royal Household. His

39

40

walking tour in Switzerland formed the basis for the present work, with chapters on Zermatt and the Matterhorn, Chamonix and Mont Blanc, and elsewhere. The book first appeared in 1849, but was partially rewritten and issued in a smaller format for this second edition.

39. Freshfield, Douglas W. The Italian Alps. Sketches in the Mountains of Ticino, Lombardy, the Trentino, and Venetia. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1875. £275

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvii, 385, 2 (ads.); errata slip to p. 1; frontis. and 8 wood-eng. plates, 5 folding maps; light age-toning to text, bookplate of Richard Mills, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, rubbed. Wäber I.293; Neate F66; Perret 1758. In this work Freshfield attempted to introduce English-language readers to an area of the Alps not previously covered in the literature outside of the Continent. Based on seven summers of travels there, Freshfield’s account includes details of the ascents he made.

40. [Freshfield, Douglas W. & Augusta Charlotte.] Memorials of Henry Douglas Freshfield. Privately Printed, 1892. £225

First edition. 8vo. pp. ix, 127; two mounted real photo. ports., one plate; very good in the original vellum-backed boards with leather lettering piece, slightly discoloured on spine. A presentation copy, inscribed to the titlepage “Ruth Stone with love from Hal’s Mother & Sister”, and with a few occasional annotations to the text in the same hand. Henry Freshfield (1877-1891) was the only son of the mountaineer Douglas Freshfield. The book gives an overview of Hal’s life, and reproduces his letters from school, and the Continent. A chapter on “Hal’s Adventures and Holiday Travels” mentions the family’s two visits to Savoy, where they were joined by the Chamonix guide François Dévouassoud, and also by Douglas Freshfield’s schoolfellow and climber William Donkin. On their second visit father and children made some “Alpine walks” up the Buet and Mont Joli.

41. [Freshfield, Mrs. Jane.] Alpine Byways; or Light Leaves gathered in 1859 and 1860. By a Lady. London: Longman, Green, Longman, and Roberts, 1861. £850

First edition. 8vo. pp. [ix], 232, 24 (publisher’s catalogue); eight tinted lithos., four maps; very good in the original blind-stamped pale blue cloth, gilt, slightly rubbed and soiled. A presentation copy, inscribed to half title “Mrs. A. Frazer Tytler with love from JQF”, and further note “Left to me by Mrs Frazer Tytler June 1879 Mr. Godwin Austen”. Wäber I.87; Neate F73; Perret 1764. A classic of the Alpine literature. Jane Quentin Freshfield (1814-1901), her husband Henry and their only child, Douglas Freshfield - later to be a prominent climber and explorer - spent their summers during the 1850s and 1860s walking and climbing in the Alps. Her first book relates details of their time in the Pennine and Bernese Alps. Presentation copies of her book are uncommon.

41


42 42. George, Hereford Brooke. The Oberland and its Glaciers: Explored and Illustrated with Ice-Axe and Camera … with Twenty-Eight Photographic Illustrations by Edward Edwards. London: Alfred W. Bennett, 1866. £775

First edition. 4to. pp. xii, 243; 11 large-format mounted real photographs (140 x 90mm) and 17 smaller real photographs (85 x 65mm) mounted to titlepage or text, one double-page lithographic map of the Bernese Oberland; some occasional foxing, tissue guards heavily embrowned, some photographs somewhat faded to margins, else good in the original blue cloth, gilt, gilt vignette of ice-axe and camera to upper board, a.e.g., neatly restored to head and tail of spine. Wäber I.143; Neate 305; Perret 1884. A photographic ‘incunable’ of the Alpine literature. Hereford George (1838-1910) made significant climbs in the Alps, and the present work records ascents made with Edward Edwards, A. Mortimer, and G. Young. Interspersed with his descriptions are discussions of glaciological theory, illustrated by photographs of Alpine scenes and glaciers commissioned by George from Edwards. This “new and useful combination” of photographs and text resulted in one of the earliest photographically illustrated books on the Alps.

43. Gervasutti, Giusto. Gervasutti’s Climbs. Trans. Nea Morin and Janet Adam Smith. Rupert Hart-Davis. 1957. £60

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 201; photo. illusts.; a very good copy in the original cloth and d.j., minor rubbing to extrems. Neate G15; Perret 1903. “Gervasutti was a leading Italian mountaineer who made many difficult ascents in the Dolomites and Mont Blanc range. He was killed while attempting a new route on Mont Blanc du Tacul” (Neate).

43

44. Gilbert, Josiah & G. C. Churchill. The Dolomite Mountains. Excursions through Tyrol, Carinthia, Carniola, & Friuli in 1861, 1862, & 1863. With a Geological Chapter… London: Longman, Green, Longman, Roberts, & Green, 1864. £575

First edition. 8vo. pp. xx, 576; 6 chromolithographs, 2 folding maps, wood-engs. to text; minor foxing, fold to one of the maps neatly repaired, else very good in contemporary half calf by Mudie, gilt decorated spine, a handsome copy. Neate G18; Perret 1930. Josiah Gilbert (1814-1892) and George Cheetham Churchill (1822-1906) were members of the Alpine Club, and were respectively a portrait painter and lawyer by profession. This classic account of their travels in the Dolomites was illustrated from original sketches made on the spot: the chromolithographs were produced by Hanhart, the wood-engravings were the work of Edward Whymper.

44

11


45. Gillman, Peter & Dougal Haston; Christian Bonington (photographer). Eiger Direct. London: Collins, 1966. £775

First edition. 8vo. pp. 183; numerous photo. illusts.; very good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is browned to upper margins, with a loosely inserted b&w postcard of the Eiger captioned ‘Direttissima - John Harlin Climb’. Signed by Haston, Gillman, and Bonington. Neate G28. A dramatic account of the first direct route up the Eiger, during which John Harlin, to whom this book is dedicated, fell to his death. This copy is signed to the flyleaf by Haston, who made the first ascent via the direct route, and by Gillman and Bonington, respectively the reporter and photographer on the expedition. The loosely inserted postcard with this copy commemorates the climb.

46. Girdlestone, Rev. A. G. The High Alps without Guides: being a Narrative of Adventures in Switzerland, together with chapters on the practicability of such mode of mountaineering, and suggestions for its accomplishment. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1870. £575

45

First edition. 8vo. pp. x, 181, [2, ads.]; wood-eng. frontis. by Edward Whymper, 2 folding maps; one map misfolded, else good in the original blind-stamped blue cloth, gilt, rebacked with the original spine laid down. Wäber I.94; Neate G30; Perret 1947 (“Important et rare ouvrage”). The Matterhorn accident of 1865, in which Edward Whymper saw four member of his party fall to their deaths, sent a shock wave through the mountaineering community. Although not himself a particularly competent climber, Girdlestone advocated climbing without guides - the majority of the episodes narrated in his High Alps were made without them. The publication of High Alps for this reason brought Girdlestone some renown amongst climbers. Few copies of the book were issued - according to Neate not more than 100 copies.

47. Grad, Charles. Glaciers [so titled to spine]. A bound volume of offprints and extracts by Grad relating to Polar and Alpine subjects.  £275

12

46

47

8vo. various paginations; one folding map of Spitsbergen, two folding maps of the Alps relating to articles collected herein; some foxing, else good in contemporary quarter cloth with paper-covered boards, slight wear. Charles Grad (1842-1890) was a writer on geological and other matters, employed at the Etablissements Herzog in Logelbach. This collection of offprints and extracted articles by Grad (and one other) were presented by Grad to Anatole Dupré (several items are inscribed to him). The articles comprise: 1. ‘Observations sur la Vallée du Grindelwald et ses Glaciers’ (Extrait du Bulletin de la Société de Géographie, Janvier 1869; inscribed by Grad); 2. ‘Résultats scientifiques des Explorations de l’Océan Glacial a l’est des Spitzbergen en 1871’ (Extrait du Bulletin de la Société de Géographie, October, 1873, with map); 3. A review of A. Nordenskjold’s ‘Relation d’une Expédition au Groenland Occidental’; 4. ‘Résultats scientifiques de l’Expédition allemande dans l’Océan glacial en 1868’ (extracted from Bulletin de la Société de Géographie, September 1870, slightly misbound); 5. ‘Etudes de Physique terrestre. Les Courants et les glaces de la mer polaire’ (1866, upper wrapper bound in and inscribed by Grad); 6. ‘Observations sur les Recherches de M. Payer sur les Glaciers du Groenland’ (offprint from Archives des Sciences de la Bibliothèque universelle, Avril, 1871, inscribed by Grad to first leaf)’ 7. ‘Description des Formations glaciaires de la Chaine des Vosges en Alsace et en Lorraine’ (Extrait de la Revue d’Alsace, Javier-Mars 1873, inscribed by Grad); 8. ‘Une Campagne sur le Glacier d’Aletsch Aout et Septembre 1869’ (2 parts, extracted from Annales de Voyages, 1870); 9. ‘Etudes de Physique terrestre. Observations sur les Petits Glaciers temporaires des Vosges’ (inscribed by Grad to upper wrapper); 10. ‘Observations sur les Glaciers de la Viège et le Massif du Monte-Rosa’ (Extrait des Annales des Voyages, 1868, inscribed by Grad, with folding plate); 11. ‘Observations sur la Consitution et le Mouvement des Glaciers’ (Extrait du Bulletin de la Société des sciences naturelles de Strasbourg, 1869). Also bound in is an offprint by Ch. Martins and Ed. Collomb, ‘Essai sur l’ancien glacier de la vallée d’Argelès (Hautes-Pyrénées)’ (Extrait du Bulletin de la Société Géologique de France, inscribed by Collomb but cropped).

48. Gribble, Francis. The Story of Alpine Climbing. London: George Newnes Ltd., 1904. £25

First edition. 12mo. pp. [vii], 180; plates; minor spotting, else very good in the original pictorial cloth, slightly rubbed. Neate G68; Perret 2057. A history of the subject for the young reader, with an emphasis on major episodes such as the first ascent of Mont Blanc and the 1865 Matterhorn accident.

48


49

50

49. [Hannibal.] John Whittaker. The Course of Hannibal over the Alps Ascertained. London: Printed for John Stockdale, 1794. £475

First edition. 2 vols. 8vo. pp. [i, title-page], 386 & [i, title-page], 284; minor spotting, bookplates of Joseph Boughton, else very good in contemporary half calf, spines gilt, contained in a purpose-made slipcase. The first separately published work on the subject.

50. [Hannibal.] J. A. De Luc. Histoire du Passage des Alpes par Annibal, dans laquelle on Détermine d’une manière précise la route de ce Général, depuis Carthagène jusqu’au Tésin, d’après la narration de Polybe, comparée aux recherches faites sur les lieux. Genève: J.-J. Paschoud; Paris: J.-J. Paschoud, 1818. £250

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvi, 303; one folding map; minor marginal browning at rear, else very good in contemporary vellum, gilt. Contemporary ownership inscription of Mrs. Walsham, Geneva, Augst. 6, 1824, to titlepage, and bookplate of Garbett Walsham to front pastedown. Perret 1270. Jean-André de Luc (1727-1817) studied meteorology and took a particular interest in the determination of altitude by the use of barometers, leading in this regard to his accomplishing the first ascent of the Buet. His interest in Hannibal was initiated by conversation in the 1790s with a Scottish general, Melville, who directed him to the account by the ancient Greek author Polybius. Melville had undertaken journeys in the Alps to determine the route taken by Hannibal, proposing that he had used the Little Saint Bernard pass. De Luc in the present work discusses both the ancient sources and Melville’s claim.

51. [Hannibal.] [H. L. Wickham & J. A. Cramer.] A Dissertation on the Passage of Hannibal over the Alps. By a member of the University of Oxford. Oxford: Printed by W. Baxter for J. Parker; and G. and W. B. Whittaker, London, 1820. £250

51

52

53

53. Harrer, Heinrich. The White Spider. The History of the Eiger’s North Face. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1959. £175

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 240; photo. illusts. inc. one folding, doublepage sketch plan; very good in the original cloth, d.j., which is a little rubbed to extremities. Neate H41; Perret 2169. Harrer’s account of the successful ascent of the North Face with Heckmair, Vörg and Kasparek in 1938.

54. Haston, Dougal. In High Places. London: Cassell, [1972].

£45

First edition. 8vo. pp. [vii], 168; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, d.-w. (slightly chipped). Neate H52; Yakushi H132a; S & B H06; Perret 2178. Haston’s autobiography tells of his ascent of the Eiger’s North face, the ascent of Annapurna with Don Whillans, and of his experiences with the 1971 International Everest Expedition. Haston later scaled Everest by the South west Face in 1975. He died in 1977 in an avalanche while skiing at Leysin.

55. Heckmair, Anderl. My Life as a Mountaineer. London: Gollancz, 1975. £75

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 224; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, d.-w. Neate H65; Perret 2190. Heckmair, with a group that included Heinrich Harrer, climbed the Eiger’s north face in 1938 (also described in Harrer’s The White Spider - see item 54). Heckmair relates his experience of the climb, and his life as a guide in the Alps, Andes and Karakoram.

First edition. 8vo. pp. xxiii, 182, [1, errata]; folding map frontis., 3 plates inc. 2 plans; foxing to plates and offsetting to title-page, bookplates of John Hopton of Can-frome, very good in contemporary full calf, gilt decorated spine, bound without half-title. A detailed description of Hannibal’s march from Spain to the foothills of the Alps, his passage via the Little St. Bernard pass, and the siege and capture of Turin, with discussion of previous accounts. A second edition appeared in 1828.

52. [Hannibal.] A Literal Translation of the Twenty-First Book of Livy. With Notes critical and explanatory, to which are subjoined, a Map, and an Appendix, with the Variæ Lectiones. From the Texts of Drakenborch and Crevier. Cambridge: Printed for W. P. Grant, 1824 £125. First edition. 8vo. pp. [i, ad.], ix, 191; folding map frontis.; minor spotting, offsetting to title-page, untrimmed in the original boards with original paper label to upper board, sometime rebacked to style with paper label. The 21st book of Livy contains an account of the Second Punic War, and of Hannibal’s march across the Alps. The text comprises the original Latin, with commentary, English translation, and notes at rear. The book is uncommon, with only the Oxford and Aberdeen University library copies listed by COPAC.

54

55

13


840; not in Perret or Meckly. According to the dedication to this work by Henry Martin, Joshua Horner, son of John Horner the Halifax landscape painter, “made arrangements for spending a year or two on the Continent, and chiefly in Italy, with a view of studying those works of the ancient masters with which that classic land of poetry and painting abounds”. His letters home to his father were printed by Martin in The Halifax Express, and then grouped together in book form, “a limited impression being struck off, not for publication, but chiefly for the private gratification of Mr. Horner’s and my own personal friends” (p. vi). Horner’s letters record his visits to Paris, Geneva, Milan, Florence, and Rome, and chapters II-V relate in particular to the Alps and to his visit to Chamonix, where he visited the “Glacier de Bosson”, “Mont Fleguire”, Montanvert and the Mer de Glace. A brief paragraph describes the “Mode of Ascending Mont Blanc”.

57. Hoyt, James M. Glances on the Wing at Foreign Lands. Cleveland: Press of Fairbanks, Benedict & Co., 1872. £125 56

57

56. [Horner, Joshua.] Letters from an Artist, sojourning on the Continent. Halifax: Printed for Private Circulation, by Henry Martin, 1841. £225

First edition. 12mo. pp. xi, 142; small stain to fore-edge, else good in the original boards, soiled, recently respined with lettering piece. Pine-Coffin Bibliography of British and American Travel in Italy to 1860,

First edition, “Printed for Relatives and Friends on Special Request”. 8vo. pp. 261; very good in the original cloth, gilt. Smith American Travellers Abroad H149; not in Meckly. “This is a delightfully straightforward account of a trip to Europe in the summer of 1871” (Smith). The author visited Britain, France, Germany, and Switzerland. Three chapters describe his visit to the Alps, including one on Chamonix and the author’s ascent to the Mauvais Pas.

58. [Jacomb, Frederick William, 1828/9-1893.] John Ball, ed. Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers. A Series of Excursions by Members of the Alpine Club. Jacomb’s copy, with marginalia in his hand. London: Longman, Green, Longman, and Roberts, 1859. £975

14

Third edition. 8vo. pp. xx, 532; a defective copy, lacking the frontispiece, but the remaining coloured plates present, 9 maps, the majority relaid on stubs; tape repairs to inner hinges at front, lacking free endpapers, fixed endpapers with tape laid over, a poor copy in the original cloth, which is slightly worn, letter ‘M’ to spine in black, previous owner’s inscription to half title, and bookplates of Charles Thurston Holland and Kenneth J. Griffiths to front pastedown. Numerous pencilled marginalia by Jacomb through much of the book, with Jacomb’s annotations to maps at pp. 77 & 127, and his initialled written comments and additions to map at p. 233. Frederick Jacomb, a barrister based in Huddersfield, was one of the original members of the Alpine Club of London. He took part in several notable climbs: in 1860, he accompanied Leslie Stephen on the first crossing from Zermatt to Saas, climbing the Alleleinhorn; in 1861, he joined William Mathews in the first ascent of Monte Viso. Descriptions of his climbs were included in the second series of Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers (1862), and articles by him appeared in the first two volumes of the Alpine Journal. The present somewhat defective copy of the first series belonged to Jacomb, who made more than sixty annotations to certain of the essays. Many of these are personal recollections of climbs made during two seasons (1855, and again in 1860), several of them being quite extensive - in two instances, his notes run over three or four pages. His comments range from the terse - “True” often appears alongside a description - to personal expressions. He mentions guides who have accompanied him on his own climbs: Octonier; “Kronig” [presumably Johann Kroneg]; Simond; and Franz Andermatten - “He is one of the best Guides. We had him over our new pass from Saas to Zermatt … also alone over the Weiss Thor” (p. 210). Some notes gloss or comment on a piece of information, as when he writes of Curé Imseng that “He keeps the Inn there [Saas] now” (p. 208), or that the “friend” who had to quit Chamonix instead of joining an expedition to the west side of Mont Blanc was “Dr. Lightfoot, afterwards Bishop of Durham” (p. 59). Most valuable, though, of Jacomb’s annotations are his recollections of Alpine climbing experiences. Prompted by an aside in William Mathews’ article on ‘The Montains of Bagnes’, Jacomb relates how he and “Kronig” made a pass from Prerayen to Zermatt in a day rather than “the then circuitous route of 2 days by the Col d’Erin”, with an ascent en route of the Tete Blanche, “a previously unascended Mountain of between 12 & 13,000 ft.” (pp. 104-7). A reference to Monte Rosa in Thomas Hinchcliff’s article on the Trift Pass elicits the note “Ascended by us in July 1860 with only 2 Guides & the weather so bad the Guides lost all knowledge of where they were for some time … We were a mass of icicles & nearly frozen” (p. 130). A later mention of Zinal prompts Jacomb’s recollection of the only room to be had in the village, which he shared one night with “a deaf and dumb Frenchman …we carried on an animated communication in French for which purpose he furnished me with a pencil & a bundle of small papers” (p. 148). Jacomb joined Leslie Stephen for an ascent of the Alleleinhorn in 1860; during the descent the party found themselves towards evening above a “trememdous Couloir ending at the bottom in a maze of Crevasses”; anxious to make the descent before nightfall, they tied together their two ropes, and successively lowered themselves to a platform cut out from the ice by a guide; realising this technique would take too long, a decision was made to glissade down the slope: “Accordingly all 8 tied closely together we shot to the bottom of the slope like a flash of lightning & only escaped by 1/2 a yard destruction in a Crevasse” (pp. 227-9) - a detail not related in Stephen’s own telling of the climb (in Francis Galton’s Vacation Tourists and Notes of Travel in 1860, pp. 278-80). The crossing of the Allelein Pass effected at the same time as this climb was marked out by Jacomb on the map at p. 207 of the present book, which shows in his hand the new route made from the Allelein Glacier to Saas on July 31st, and the new pass from Saas to Zermatt with a detour for the ascent of the Alleleinhorn. Jacomb refers three times in his notes to his “Photographs”, but we have been unable to determine whether these survive.


59

60

59. King, Rev. S. W. The Italian Valleys of the Pennine Alps: A Tour through all the Romantic and less-frequented ‘Vals’ of Northern Piedmont, from the Tarentaise to the Gries. London: John Murray, 1858. £450

First edition. 8vo. pp. vii, [ii]. 558, 32 (ads.); frontis., 9 plates, 3 folding maps and one plan; inner hinges neatly restored, previous owner’s bookplate, very good in the original cloth, gilt, a little wear to extremities. Wäber I.219; Neate K23; Perret 2437 (“Peu courant”). Samuel William King (1821-1868) “was a member of the Alpine Club but his climbing career was very short and his reputation rests on this lengthy cross-country tour with his wife in 1855, described in delightful detail in his book. He died and is buried in Pontresina” (Neate).

60. Lépiney, Jacques and Tom. Climbs on Mont Blanc. London: Edward Arnold, 1930. £50 First UK edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 179; 16 photo. plates; very good in the original grey cloth, lettered in black, slightly darkened on spine. Neate L37; Perret 2632. The two French brothers climbed during the 1920s, making a first ascent of the Point de Lépiney.

61. Longman, William. A Lecture on Switzerland. Printed for Private Circulation, July 1857. £450

61

62

the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. A very good history of mountaineering that includes Himalayan exploration and mountain climbing. “Lunn’s best and most sought after book.” (Neate).

65. Lunn, Henry S. The Grindelwald Conference 1894. A Holiday in the Bernese Oberland, with extensions to Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the St. Gothard, the Italian Lakes, the Engadine, and the Falls of the Rhine. London, ?1894. £95

?First edition. 8vo. pp. 167, 40, 47, xxxvi; ports., illusts., 4 folding maps, one double-page map; MS list of maps to frontis. recto, minor foxing, contents a little shaken in the original cloth, gilt, minor soiling or staining. Wäber II.42. Henry Simpson Lunn (1859-1939) was the founder of Lunn Poly, one of Britain’s largest travel companies. In the 1890s he organised the Grindelwald conferences, a series of meetings intended “to secure a really refreshing holiday in every sense of the word” (p. 14). The conferences gave opportunities for travel, alongside a programme with religious and cultural content. Among the speakers called in for the 1894 Conference were Edward Whymper, Edmund Gosse, Sir Robert Ball, and various divines. The present book was compiled to provide those attending with a programme, hints on travel, hotels, costs, and the like.

First edition. 8vo. pp. viii, 94; very good in the original cloth, gilt. A presentation copy, inscribed to half-title “From the Author”. Wäber I.85; Meckly 115; Perret 2683. Longman (1813-1877), of the publishing house Longmans, was a founding member of the Alpine Club and its president in 1871-4. “This rare privately printed pamphlet deals primarily with glaciers and their motion but also discusses Chamonix and the ascent of Mont Blanc” (Meckly).

62. [Loppé.] William H. Mitchell. Loppé. Gabriel Loppé (18251913). [London: John Mitchell Fine Paintings, 2018]. £40

First edition. 4to. pp. 200; numerous illusts.; new in original printed card wrappers with pictorial card d.-w. “As a prolific artist and mountaineer, Gabriel Loppé is now recognized as the first painter to have depicted what the French call la haute montagne. He was the founder of the peintre-alpiniste school of painting and with a brush in one hand and an ice axe in the other, his eighty-eight years were lived with a great independence of spirit which rewarded him at every turn” (d.-w.)

64

63

63. Luc, Jean André de. Reisen nach den Eisgebürgen von Faucigny in Savoyen. Aus dem Französischen übersetzt. Leipzig: Weidmanns Erben und Reich, 1777. £450

First German edition. 12mo. pp. 174; engraved vignette to title-page, eng. tail-piece at end; minor age-toning, else very good in contemporary papered boards with paper lettering piece, slightly rubbed. Wäber I.176; see Meckly 116 for the French edition (Relation de differents voyages dans les Alpes du Faucigny, 1776); Perret 1271. An account of attempts on the Buet in 1765, 1770 and 1776. Luc (1727-1817) offers details of the use of the hygrometer, with discussion of Mont Blanc at pp. 160ff.

64. Lunn, Arnold. A Century of Mountaineering 1857-1957. London: Allen & Unwin, 1957. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. [4], 263; frontispiece, 23 plates from photgraphs and paintings, some coloured; VG in original cloth, d.j., which is slightly browned on spine and chipped. Loosely inserted compliment card from the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Neate L63. Yakushi L149. A centenary tribute to the Alpine Club from

65

15


66

67

68

69

First and only edition. 8vo. pp. 68; 8 wood-engraved plates; some occasional foxing, good in the original cloth, gilt, a.e.g., cloth slightly dulled. A presentation copy, inscribed to the frontispiece recto “Mr J. R. Netherton Truro With R. Marrack’s Compliments December 22/76”. Not in the usual bibliographies. This idiosyncratic account of a trip to and around Switzerland, illustrated by the authors, includes details of their ascent of the Rigi, a visit to the Bernese Overland, and their stay at Chamonix, where one of the men was guided across the Mer de Glace via the Mauvais Pas to the Chapeau. The book is uncommon, with only two copies located on Worldcat (BL and National Library of Scotland).

70. Mathews, Charles Edward. The Annals of Mont Blanc. A Monograph … With a Chapter on the Geology of the Mountain, by Professor T.G. Bonney. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1898 £350

70

16

71

66. Lunn, Rev. Henry S. How to Visit Switzerland. A New GuideBook to the Chief Scenes of Interest in Switzerland with the programme of the Grindelwald Conference, 1895. London: Horace Marshall and Son, 1895. £50

First edition. 8vo. pp. [vii], 266; port. frontis. of Lunn, two folding maps in pockets at front and rear, one folding map to text (with tear to fold), illusts.; bumped to upper outer margins, hinges slightly cracked, good in the original cloth, gilt, rubbed. Wäber II.25.“I hope that the following pages will be found to contain all that is necessary for, say, a month’s Swiss tour” (Preface). The book includes a chapter on ‘Mountain Climbing’ by J. T. W. Perowne.

67. Lyall, Alan. The First Descent of the Matterhorn. A Bibliographical Guide to the 1865 Accident and its Aftermath. Gomer, 1997. £45 First edition. Large 8vo. pp. 674; illusts. to text; as new, with a photocopied sheet of the author’s corrections loosely inserted. A comprehensive analysis of the Matterhorn accident, when four out of the seven-man party that made the first ascent of the mountain, among them Edward Whymper, fell to their deaths on the descent. Lyall provides biographies of the various figures involved in the climb and its aftermath, reproduces original documents, reports, and the like.

68. Main, Mrs. [Elizazbeth Le Blond]. My Home in the Alps. London: Sampson Low, Marston and Company, 1892. £175 First edition. 8vo. pp. vii, 131, 32 (ads.); some embrowning to margins of ads. at rear, else very good in the original pictorial cloth, gilt, darkened on spine. Neate L25; Perret 2587; Theakstone Women Travellers p. 40. “In this little volume, much of the matter in which first appeared in the St. Moritz Post … I have jotted down a few things of interest to the ordinary traveller in Switzerland” (Preface). Mrs. Main devotes the first five chapters to Alpine guides, drawing on her own experiences of climbing in the Alps. The remainder of the book covers Alpine scenery and such features as glaciers, moraines and the like.

69. [Marrack, Richard & Edmund G. Harvey.] How We Did Them in Seventeen Days! To Wit: Belgium, the Rhine, Switzerland, & France, Described and Illustrated by One of Ourselves; aided, assisted, encouraged, and abetted by the Other! Truro: Lake & Lake, Princes Street, n.d. [1875]. £175

First edition. 8vo. pp. xxiv, 368; eng. frontis. on india paper after E.T. Compton, wood-eng. vignette to title, 26 b & w ports. and illusts., 1 diagram to text, 5 photogravures from photographs by Vittorio Sella, 1 large folding coloured map at rear; minor spotting, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, t.e.g. Neate M66; Perret 2863. Mathews (1834-1905) was an original member of the Alpine Club and its President 1878-1880. He made his first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1856 and further ascents in the years following. The present work offers a history of climbing on Mont Blanc, wonderfully illustrated with portraits of some of the famous names in this history, and by Sella’s detailed photographs of the mountain’s principal features.

71. Meyer, Johann Rudolf & Hieronymus Meyer. Reise auf den Jungfrau-Gletscher und ersteigung seines Gipfels. N.p. [?Aarau], n.d. [?1812]. £325 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 31; some soiling, circular indent to text throughout, good in recent buckram with leather lettering piece. Wäber I.133; Perret 2997. This offprint, from the Aarau-printed Miszellen für die neueste Weltkunde, records the first ascent of the Jungfrau by the Meyer brothers, made in August 1811.

72. Meyerstein, E. H. W. The Climbers. An Ode on the Eton Masters who lost their lives descending the Piz Roseg on August 17th, 1933. London: Printed by Metcalfe & Cooper Ltd., for the Author, 1934.£95 First edition. Slim 8vo. pp. 5; good in the original printed wrappers, which are somewhat discoloured with a small adhesion hole to rear wrapper (probably removed from an album). Neate M95. Edward Harry William Meyerstein (18891952), educated at Harrow and Oxford, was a writer and scholar, and notable collector of manuscripts. This occasional poem seems to have been prompted by news of the deaths of the three Eton masters - E. V. Slater, H. E. E. Howson, and E. W. Powell - who were also memorialised in the Alpine Journal for 1934.


73

74

75

76

73. Moffat, Gwen. Space beneath my Feet. London: Hodder & Stoughton, [1961]. £45

75. Morin, Nea. A Woman’s Reach. Mountaineering Memoirs … With a foreword by Eric Shipton. London: Eyre & Spottiswoode, [1968] .£35

74. Moore, Adolphus Warburton. The Alps in 1864. A Private Journal. Ed. Alex. B. W. Kennedy. Edinburgh: David Douglas, 1902.  £375

76. Mummery, A. F. My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus. London: T. Fisher Unwin; New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1895. £475

First edition. 8vo. pp. 286; photo. illusts.; minor spotting to fore-edge, else near-fine in original cloth, in d.-w. Neate M125. Moffat was the first woman to become a climbing and mountaineering guide in Britain, associated with the RAF Mountain Rescue Service. This volume describes her early years in Britain and the Alps.

First trade edition. Large 8vo. pp. xxxv, 444; port. frontis., 21 plates, illusts. to text, 10 maps to text; browning to endpapers, else near-fine in the original cloth, gilt, t.e.g. Neate M137; Perret 3086; cf. Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 16. Moore (1841-1887) made extensive Alpine tours in the years 1860-81, including this one with Whymper and Horace Walker in 1864. His work was first issued privately in 1867. This new edition, edited by A. B. W. Kennedy of the Alpine Club, includes illustrations not present in the 1867 edition. It also draws on Moore’s previously unpublished diaries, and offers his account of the first ascent of the Brenva ice-ridge on Mont Blanc.

First edition. 8vo. pp. 288; photo. illusts.; foxing to title-page, else VG in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is a little chipped. Neate M145; Perret 3104. Morin (1905-1986) climbed in the Alps, Scotland and North Wales, and promoted all-women climbing. She also climbed with her daughter Denise (later wife of Charles Evans). An appendix provides ‘A Survey of Some Notable Feminine Ascents’.

First edition. Tall 8vo. pp. xii, 360; lithographed frontispiece, 8 photogravure plates, 11 full-page wood-engs., 1 chromolithgraphed plate, illusts. to text; some heavy foxing throughout, previous owner’s inscriptions to front blank, else good in the original buckram, leather lettering pieces to spine, t.e.g., slightly rubbed. Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 21; Neate M181; Perret 3149. Mummery pioneered the ridges and difficult pinnacles of the Alps. His list of climbs is remarkable, including the first ascents of the Grepon, the Zmutt Ridge of the Matterhorn, and the Charmoz, with Alexander Burgener. He also pioneered guideless climbing, making the first guideless ascent of Brenva Ridge on Mont Blanc. Two chapters relate Mummery’s climbing experiences in the Caucasus. He died in 1895 while reconnoitring Nanga Parbat in the Himalayas.

77 77. Murray, John (publisher). A Hand-Book for Travellers in Switzerland and the Alps of Savoy and Piedmont, including the Protestant Valleys of the Waldenses. London: John Murray & Co., 1838. £850 First edition. 8vo. pp. lx, 365, 4 (pubs. ads.); folding plate of the Bernese Alps, folding map printed on linen at rear; lower hinge partly cracked, occasional foxing, bookplate of Sienna Convent, Drogheda, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, minor wear to extremities, cloth marked, signs of label removed from lower part of spine, two loosely inserted maps from the 1879 edition of this work. Wäber I.72; Perret 3159. As Perret notes, this guide became “indispensable” for British travellers to Switzerland in the nineteenth century. It went through several further editions, including a second in 1839, and this first edition has become hard to find. Murray compiled the material on his visits to Switzerland in 1818 and 1825.

17


of the Bernese Alps and the Chain of Mont Blanc on one folding sheet, one folding map printed on linen at rear; one section loosened, ownership inscription to flyleaf of Herbert Waddington, else good in contemporary limp roan with advertisement for John Lee’s Guide Depôt to rear pastedown, rubbed. Wäber I.72; Perret 3159. This copy has a list of plates at page lxxi stipulating that the book be bound with the panoramas of the Bernese Alps and of Mont Blanc at the relevant sections, but the binder of this copy - John Lee, who specialised in binding Murray’s handbooks as well as passports for travellers - has bound both on one sheet at the Mont Blanc section.

79. Norman-Neruda, May, ed. The Climbs of Norman-Neruda. London: T. Fisher Unwin, Ltd., 1899. £325

78

79

78. Murray, John (publisher). A Hand-Book for Travellers in Switzerland, and the Alps of Savoy and Piedmont. London: John Murray & Co., 1846. £95

Third edition, Corrected and Augmented. 8vo. pp. lxxii, 420; panoramas

First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 335, [4, ads.]; photogravure port. frontis., plates from photos.; bookplate of New Hall, Cambridge, foxing to frontis., endpapers and fore-edge, else near-fine in the original cloth, gilt, t.e.g., slightly faded on spine. Wäber II.29; Neate N24; Perret 3218. The Austrian Ludwig NormanNeruda (1864-98) was one of the leading climbers of his day, and with the guide Christian Klucker he made new ascents on the Lyskamm (from the north), the Bernina, and in the Dolomites. He died while climbing, probably from cardiac arrest.

18 80 80. [Panorama.] Description of a View of Bern, and the High Alps, with the Surrounding Country. Taken by Henry Aston Barker; and now exhibiting in the great Rotunda of his Panorama, Leicester-Square. London: Printed by J. and C. Adlard, 1821. £675

First edition. 8vo. pp. 12; large folding frontispiece engraving of Bern with key; closed tear to margin of engraving, else very good in contemporary plain wrappers. Wäber I.121; NLS Mountaineering Catalogue d088. This uncommon item was a guide to the panorama exhibited at London’s Leicester Square. Barker, who ran the Panorama at this time, based the view of Bern on sketches made on the spot, and the booklet reproduces the entire view in two sections on the large folding plate that forms the frontispiece. The text offer a four-page description of Bern, followed by explanations of the sites and distant mountains shown in the panorama. The final three pages offer a “Description of the High Alps”, with brief paragraphs on 12 peaks that include the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, Eiger, Monch, and the Jungfrau.

81. Perret, Jacques. Guide des Livres sur la Montagne et l’Alpinisme. Grenoble: Editions de Belledome, 1997. £125

First edition. 8vo. 2 vols. pp. 572 & 573; text in French; VG in the original cloth, gilt. An exceptional bibliographical guide to mountaineering literature, with a wider range than Neate, Yakushi and other mountaineering bibliographies. Volume I contains indexes of titles, chronology, illustrators, collections, themes, locations/regions, pseudonyms; volume II listings of books by author and anonymous titles.

81


82

83

86

84

87

82. Perret, Jacques. Regards sur les Alpes. 100 livres d’exception, 1515-1908. Edition du Mont-Blanc, [2011]. £55

First edition. 4to. pp. 271; numerous coloured and b & w illusts.; new in original boards in wraparound slip, in card slipcase. A useful survey of one hundred important books that reflect the increasing knowledge and experience of the Alps over the centuries. The list begins with works by Signot, Tschudi, Gesner, Stumpf and Simler, and closes with Mummery, Coolidge, Rey and Baud-Bovy.

83. Rébuffat, Gaston. Starlight and Storm. The Ascent of Six Great North Faces of the Alps. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., [1956]. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. xxi, 122; photo. illusts., sketch maps; minor spotting to fore-edge, else near-fine in original cloth, d.-w. Neate R20; Perret 3610. The French climber’s lyrical account of his ascents of the Grandes Jorasses, the Piz Badile, the Dru, the Matterhorn, the Cima Grande di Lavaredo, and the Eiger.

84. Rébuffat, Gaston. On Snow and Rock. London: Nicholas Kaye, [1963]. £25

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 192; photo. illusts.; bumped to head of spine partially affecting contents, else VG in original cloth, in d.-w. with one or two chips. Neate R19; Perret 3612. Rébuffat’s Neige et Roc appeared in 1959, and provided an illustrated guide to Alpine technique.

85. Rébuffat, Gaston. Le Massif du Mont Blanc. Les 100 Plus Belles Courses. Paris: Denoël, [1973]. £350

First edition. 4to. pp. 240; numerous photo. illusts.; good in the original pictorial boards, a little wear to extremities. A presentation copy from the author to Bradford Washburn, inscribed to half-title: “A Brad, à l’homme exemplaire passionné par la grande nature, au grimpeur et au photographe qui connait si bien le massif du Mont Blanc, en souhaitant de tout coeur, l’emmener un jour - que soit il voudroner un tesu sommet du massif, à Brad et à Barbara, en toute amitié, Gaston”. Perret 3619. Rebuffat’s superbly illustrated guide includes photographs of many of the more significant features along each route.

86. Rendu, Louis, Bishop of Savoy. Theory of the Glaciers of Savoy… Translated by Alfred Wills … to which are added the Original Memoir; and Supplemented Articles by P. G. Tait … and John Ruskin … Edited, with Introductory Remarks, by George Forbes. London: Macmillan and Co., 1874. £275

First English edition. 8vo. pp. [viii], 216; one wood-engraved map; previous owner’s inscription to title-page, else a fine copy in original brown cloth, gilt. Neate R22; cf. Perret 3645. The publication of this volume was prompted by the polemic between John Tyndall (author of Glaciers of the Alps) and James Forbes (author of Norway and its Glaciers). Tyndall held that Forbes had failed fully to acknowledge the achievements of Rendu’s theory of glaciers, and in the present work George Forbes attempted to defend his father (d. 1868) by offering a full record of the debate. To this end, Forbes junior reprinted articles by Tait and Ruskin on the controversy, and was aided in his translation of Rendu’s work by Alfred Wills, his father’s dedicated disciple and sometime President of the Alpine Club.

89

85

19

87. Rey, Guido. The Matterhorn … With an Introduction by Edmondo de Amicis. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1907. £225

First UK edition. Large 8vo. pp. 336; 14 mounted plates and 21 other plates; slightly bumped to upper outer corners, else very good in the original yellow buckram, original leather lettering pieces to spine, t.e.g. Neate R25; Perret 3664. Rey, from a wealthy Piedmontese family, began climbing with his uncle Quintino Sella (founder of the Italian Alpine Club). He made new ascents on Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn, and also became an accomplished photographer. His book on the Matterhorn, first published in Italy in 1904, gives an historical account of the mountain, as well as details of Rey’s own ascents. The English edition, translated by J. E. C. Eaton, is an attractively produced volume with tipped-in illustrations.

88. Rey, Guido. The Matterhorn … With an Introduction by Edmondo de Amicis. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1907. £150

Second UK edition (same year as the 1st). Large 8vo. pp. 336; 14 mounted plates and 21 other plates; spotting to endpapers, else very good in the original yellow buckram, original leather lettering pieces to spine, t.e.g., slightly soiled. Neate R25; Perret 3664.

89. Roch, André. Climbs of my Youth. London: Lindsay Drummond, [1949]. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 159; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, d.-w. which is faded on spine (as usual) and slightly chipped to extrems. Neate R57; Perret 3726. Roch (1906-2002) climbed in the Alps and Himalayas, and led the 1952 Swiss Everest expeditions. He made many first ascents, and his autobiography records the first ascent of the north face of the Triolet.


90. [Rose, William & H. Seymour]. A Tour to Great St. Bernard’s and round Mont Blanc. With descriptions copied from a journal kept by the author; and drawings taken from nature. London: Printed for Harvey & Darton, 1827. £475

First edition. 12mo. pp. iv, 144; 16 b&w views on 8 plates, one folding map; previous owners’ bookplates at front, a near-fine copy in original blind-stamped cloth, gilt, a.e.g., a little sunned on spine. Wäber I.179; Nava S/5; Meckly 200; Perret 3762. The first book on Mont Blanc aimed at the juvenile market (as the title-page specifies, “Intended for young Persons from ten to fourteen Years of Age”). The book is written as a series of letters from William Rose, Fanny Rose and Harry Seymour. The content is, as Meckly points out, entirely devoted to the Mont Blanc area. The views show, among others, the Glacier des Bois, Argentier, Courmayeur, and “A Châlet near the Col du Bonhomme”.

20

91 91. Roth, Abraham. The Doldenhorn and Weisse Frau. Ascended for the first time by Abraham Roth and Edmund von Fellenberg. Coblenz: Karl Bædeker; London & Edinburgh: Williams and Norgate, 1863. £850

First English edition. 8vo. pp. [iv], 82; addn. wood-eng. title-page, 11 coloured lithographs from original sketches by Gosset and Fellenberg, 2 wood-eng. plates, two illusts. to text, one folding coloured map; bookplate of Gerald Franklin, marginal age-toning, some foxing to plates, else good in the original blue cloth, gilt, minor discolouration to lower board. Wäber I.141; Neate R77; Perret 1602. Edmund von Fellenberg (1838-1902) was a pioneer climber in the Bernese Oberland. He and Philip Gosset (18381911) unsuccessfully attempted to climb the Doldenhorn and Weisse Frau in 1862, and it was left to von Fellenberg and Abraham Roth (1823-1880) to make the successful first ascents later that year. Roth’s account is illustrated by Gosset and von Fellenberg’s sketches.

92. [Saussure.] Jean Senebier. Mémoire historique sur la Vie et les Écrits de Horace Bénédict Desaussure. Pour servir d’introduction à la lecture de ses ouvrages. Genève: J. J. Paschoud, IX [i.e. 1801]. £475

First edition. 8vo. pp. 219; very good in contemporary calf-backed papered boards, small chip to lettering piece on spine. Meckly 174; Perret 4012 (“Peu courant”). The first biography of de Saussure.

93. [Saussure.] D. W. Freshfield, with Henry F. Montagnier. The Life of Horace Benedict de Saussure. London: Edward Arnold, 1920. £450

92

93

First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 479, [1]; plates, one map, map front endpapers; very good in the original cloth, gilt. A presentation copy to “Judge R. E. Osborne with the compliments of Henry F. Montagnier Champéry July 24 1922”. Neate F67; Perret 1763. The first full biography of Saussure, and the first in English. Freshfield was assisted by the Alpine scholar Henry Montagnier, who presented this particular copy. The work describes the impetus Saussure gave to Alpinism, and sets in context his 1787 ascent of Mont Blanc, the first ascent following that by Paccard and Balmat in the previous year.


94 94. Sazerac, H. & G. Engelmann. Lettres sur la Suisse … Accompagnees de Vues d’après Nature & Lithographiées par M. Villeneuve. Première partie: Oberland bernois. Paris: G. Engelmann, 1823. £575

Folio. pp. [i, lithograph vignette title-page], 84; 6 vignettes lithographs to text, 24 lithograph views on india paper; some occasional foxing, else very good in contemporary calf, recently rebacked, minor wear to boards. Wäber I.60; Perret 3933. The publisher and printer Godefroy Engelmann (1788-1839) made improvements in lithography, and worked with the printmaker Louis Villeneuve to produce Lettres sur la Suisse. Issued in five parts, each contained views relating to a different region of Switzerland, with text provided by various contributors. This, the first part, is devoted to the Bernese Oberland, and contains letters written by Hilaire-Léon Sazerac during his visit there to the painter Mongin in Paris. The plates include views of Thun, the falls on the Aar, Giessbach, and Staubbach, the Jungfrau, the Grindelwald glacier, the Wetterhorn, and other pastoral scenes from the area.

95. Schmidkunz, Walter. Der Kampf über den Gletschern. Ein Buch von der Alpenfront. Erfurt: Richters Verlaganstalt, 1934. £75

Illustrated edition. 8vo. pp. 287; numerous photo. illusts.; very good in the original white cloth letter in red, bumped to foot of spine (partially affecting contents). Not in Perret. Schmidkunz (1887-1861) was a prominent German climber and publisher of mountaineering titles. Among other works he assisted the translation of George Finch’s Der Kampf um den Everest, and reprinted Saussure’s account of his ascent of Mont Blanc. The present work relates his First World War experiences with the army in the Southern Eastern Alps in the region of Monte Pasquale and elsewhere. The book first appeared in 1917 without photographs; the present version includes some ninety images from the period.

95

96 96. Shuckburgh, Sir George. ‘Observations made in Savoy, in order to ascertain the height of Mountains by means of the Barometer; being an Examination of M. De Luc’s Rules, delivered in his Recherches sur les Modifications de l’Atmosphere’. An extract from the Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society, vol. LXVII, 1778.  £675

First edition in journal form. 8vo. pp. 513-597; large folding map; very good in modern papered boards. Shuckburgh offered the first accurate assessment of the height of Mont Blanc, based on a survey made in August and September of 1775 to which Horace de Saussure also contributed. Shuckburgh reported his findings in two lectures given before the Royal Society of London on the 8th and 15th of May, 1777, and these were printed up in the Society’s Transactions in 1778; the present example is extracted from that year’s volume. The map of the region that illustrates the article includes an accurate outline of some of the peaks including Mont Blanc, on which is indicated the high point of an attempt to reach the summit made by “4 Inhabitants of Chamouny . . . in 1775” shortly before Shuckburgh arrived in the area.

21


97. Simler, Josias. Vallesiæ et Alpium descriptio. Lugduni Batavorum [Leiden]: Ex Officina Elzeviriana, 1633.

£675

[Second edition.] 16mo. pp. 377, [7, index]; engraved title-page; contemporary (1655) ownership inscription to title-page, very good in contemporary vellum with yap edges. Wäber I.39; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 2; Perret 4059. Simler (1530-1576) was a scholar at the University of Zurich. His description of the Alps is considered the first book devoted to mountains. Originally published in 1574, it was reprinted in this version by the Elzevir Press. Simler offers practical advice on the precautions to be followed in climbing above the snow line, and indeed makes the first reference in the literature to the use of crampons. He also devotes a chapter to the hazards of Alpine travel. An important early work.

98. [Smith, Albert.] Aldo Audisio & Veronica Lisino, eds. Albert Smith. Lo Spettacolo del Monte Bianco e altre Avventure in vendita / Le Spectacle du Mont-Blanc et autres Aventures en vente /The Spectacle of Mont Blanc and other Adventures for sale. Turin: Museo Nazionale della Montagna, [2018]. £35

4to. pp. 432; numerous illusts.; new in the original card covers. This splendid work was published to coincide with the Albert Smith exhibition at the Museo Nazionale della Montagna in Turin, Italy, from May to October 2018. The central 150 pages illustrate items on show in the exhibition, with related essays by several people on Smith and his Mont Blanc climb and show (the essays are repeated in Italian, French, and English).

99. Smythe, F. S. Edward Whymper. London: Hodder and Stoughton Limited, [1940]. £150

98

22

99

First edition. 8vo. pp. xiv, 330; 24 b & w plates, 3 reproductions of diary entries, one sketch map and 2 folding maps; browning to endpapers, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, in the original dust-wrapper, which is worn with loss to head of spine and slightly spotted. Neate S117; Perret 4085. This “unrivalled” biography (Lyall The First Descent of the Matterhorn, p. 592) offers a thorough account of Whymper’s pioneering ascents.

100. Somis, Ignazio. An Historical Narrative of a most Extraordinary Event which happened at the Village of Bergemoletto in Italy: where Three Women were saved out of the Ruins of a Stable, in which they had been buried Thirty-seven Days by a heavy fall of Snow. With Curious Remarks… Translated from the Italian. London: T. Osborne, 1765. £750 First English edition. 12mo. pp. vi, [2, Advertisement], 208, [4, ads.]; two plates; some foxing or browning, previous owner’s inscription of Frances Augusta Eliza Pierrepont at front, armorial bookplate of Thoresby Park, good in contemporary calf, recently respined to style. Perret 4100 (“Rare”); cf. Wellcome V.148 (Italian edition). Count Igazio Somis (1718-1793) was Professor of Medicine at the University of Turin. He published in 1758 in Turin an account of the experiences of three women, buried in snow after an avalanche in the village of Bergemoletto near Cuneo in Piedmont. Somis prefaces his account with a discussion of avalanches, continues with a description of the event, and concludes with considerations concerning various medical aspects of the women’s experience. The book was reissued under a different title in 1768 (see following item), but both editions are rare. This copy once belonged to Lady Frances Augusta Eliza Pierrepont (d. 1847), the daughter of Charles Pierrepont of Thoresby Park, Nottinghamshire.

101. Somis, Ignazio. A True and Particular Account, of the Most Surprising Preservation, and Happy Deliverance, of Three Women who were Buried, Thirty-seven Day’s [sic], in the Ruins of a Stable, by a heavy Fall of Snow, from the Mountains, at the Village of Bergemoletto. With Curious Remarks … Translated from the Italian. London: H. Sergeant, 1768. £575 Second English edition. 12mo. pp. vi, [2, Advertisement], 208, [4, ads.]; two plates; some foxing or browning, staining at pp. 84-5 and to upper margins after p. 141, both plates laid down on new paper, good in modern half calf with old boards. Perret 4100 (“Rare”); cf. Wellcome V.148 (Italian edition). A new edition of the previous title, with a differently worded title-page but text and plates unchanged.


102

104

103

102. Stephen, Leslie. The Playground of Europe. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1871. £375

First edition. 8vo. pp. xii,321, [2, ads.]; frontis., vignette to title-page, 2 wood-eng. plates; bookplate of Oscar V. Viney, inner hinges slightly tender, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, faded on spine. Wäber I.94; Neate S165; Perret 4151. Leslie Stephen (1832-1904), a writer and critic, was one of the foremost climbers of the golden age of Alpinism. Though not a founding member of the Alpine Club, he soon joined, having already climbed in the Alps. The Playground of Europe offers a magnificent record of this period of Alpine mountaineering, and indeed “his book ranks among the best in climbing literature” (Neate).

103. Studer, Bernhard & Edouard Desor. Aperçu général de la Structure géologique des Alpes … Précédé de Quelques Observations générales, par E. Desor. Tiré de la Bibliothèque Universelle de Gevève. N.p. [Geneva], Mars 1842. £150

First separate edition. pp. 32; one folding geological section of the Alps; very good in modern cloth, leather lettering piece. Not in Perret. Bernhard Studer (1794-1887), the cousin of Gottlieb Studer, was a geologist based at the University of Bern, and published extensively on the subject. This article, offprinted from the Bibliothèque Universelle de Gevève, offers an overview of the geological structure of the Alps, with a few introductory pages by Edouard Desor that provide a context for Studer’s work.

104. Studer, Gottlieb. Über Eis und Schnee. Die höchsten Gipfel der Schweiz und die Geschichte ihrer Besteigung. Bern: Schmid, Francke & Co., 1896-1899. £275

Second edition. 3 vols. 8vo. pp. [ii], 535, [1, errata], vii, 580 & xii, 508; port. frontis. of Studer to vol. 1; near-fine in the original pictorial cloth, gilt. Wäber I.94; Perret 4159. Studer’s explorations and ascents in the Swiss Alps were recorded in a series of volumes originally published between the years 1869-1883. After his death in 1890, these volumes were edited for republication by Wäber and Dübi, members of the Swiss Alpine Club. Each volume is devoted to a different part of the Alps, and the first volume contains a memoir of Studer and a list of his ascents over 3000m and passes over 2500m.

105

106. Tyndall, John. The Glaciers of the Alps. Being a Narrative of Excursions and Ascents, an Account of the Origin and Phenomena of Glaciers, and an Exposition of the Physical Principles to which they are related. London: John Murray, 1860. £375 First edition. 8vo. pp. xx, i, 444, 32 (pubs. list); wood-eng. frontis., 5 plates, illusts.; contemporary school inkstamp to front pastedown, adhesion damage to one leaf with slight loss of text (p. 174), else very good in the original cloth, gilt, sunned on spine. Wäber I.87; Neate T75; Nava K/2; Meckly 205; Perret 4354. Tyndall (1820-1893), the physicist and mountaineer, recorded in this two-part work his ascents in the Alps, and his theory of glaciers. The chapters includes details of climbs in the Oberland (Strahleck, Finsteraarhorn), Chamonix (Mont Blanc), and Zermatt (Monte Rosa)

107. Tyndall, John. Hours of Exercise in the Alps. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1871. £475

First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 473, [2, Tyndall’s works], 32 (pubs. cat.); 7 plates engraved by E. Whymper; minor foxing to plates, very good in the original cloth, gilt, a.e.g., neatly restored to extremities. A presentation copy from the author to Mrs. Grote, with his inscription to the half-title “To Mrs. Grote from the climber May 1871”, an accompanying signed letter presenting the book pasted to flyleaf, and with the bookplate of George Grote (and remains of a later bookplate). Wäber I.95; Neate T76; Perret 4356. Tyndall’s account of mountaineering in the years 1859-70 includes details of his attempts on the Matterhorn, the second of which resulted in the death of his guide Joseph Bennen. The second part of the book comprises ‘Notes on Ice and Glaciers etc.’, with details of the Mer de Glace, and of an astronomical visit to Algeria.

105. [Tuckett, F. F.] A Pioneer in the High Alps. Alpine Diaries and Letters of F. F. Tuckett 1856-1874. London: Edward Arnold, 1920.£350

First edition. 8vo. pp. xi, 372, 16 (pubs. ads.); port. frontis., 7 plates inc. two folding; browning to frontis. from tissue-guard, embrowning to endpapers, previous owner’s bookplate, very good in the original cloth, faded on spine. Neate T69; Perret 4345. Francis Fox Tuckett (1834-1913) was a leading climber of the golden age of Alpinism. After initial climbs around Chamonix, Zermatt, and elsewhere, in the 1860s he pioneered climbing in the Dolomites, for which he won recognition from King Victor Emmanuel II. A few of his climbs were recorded in articles published in the Alpine Journal (reproduced here), but the vast majority of his accounts were unpublished before the appearance of the present work.

106

107

23


108 109 108. Ullman, James Ramsey. Straight Up. The Life and Death of John Harlin. New York: Doubleday & Company, 1968. £175

First edition. 8vo. pp. 288; illusts., sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, in dust-wrapper, which is somewhat discoloured. Signed to the title by Chris Bonington and Royal Robbins. Neate U04; Perret 4366. Harlin (1935-1966) made his name in the 1960s as a mountaineer, making the first American ascent of the Eiger (1962) and, with Royal Robbins, the American Direttissima on the Aiguille du Dru. In 1966 he and Dougal Haston attempted the first direct route on the Eiger, but Hastin fell to his death when his rope snapped. This copy is signed by Royal Robbins, and by Chris Bonington, present as photographer at Hastin’s direct attempt on the Eiger.

109. Viollet-Le-Duc, Eugène. Mont Blanc. A Treatise on its Geodesical and Geological Constitution; its Transformations; and the Ancient and Recent State of its Glaciers. London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle, & Rivington, 1877. £250

24

First English edition. 8vo. pp. xvi, 378, [2, ads.]; illusts. to text; “Railway Clearinghouse Literary Society” inkstamp to title-page, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, vignette of Mont Blanc to upper cover, darkened on spine. Perret 4481. First published in 1876 in France, Mont Blanc is based on observations and surveys made by Viollet-Le-Duc (1814-1879) during eight summers spent in the region of the massif. Albeit somewhat scientific in orientation, the book also draws on the author’s climbs and scrambles for

110

111

his knowledge of the geological and other phenomena associated with the region. The translator, B. Bucknall, mentions a visit he made with ViolletLe-Duc to Mont Blanc, and comments on the author’s intimate knowledge of the massif.

110. White, Chas. Three Weeks in the Bernese Oberland. Warrington: Printed at the Guardian Office, n.d. c. 1905. £150

?First edition. 8vo. pp. 14; very good in the original printed wrappers, ink classmark to upper wrrapper. This unrecorded pamphlet offers the text of White’s lecture before the Warrington Field Club, based on his visits to the region. He discusses aspects of the geology of the Alps, and refers to authorities such as Bonney, Ruskin and Leslie Stephen. The lecture was illustrated with lantern slides, sadly not reproduced in the booklet.

111. White, Walter. Holidays in Tyrol. Kufstein, Klobenstein, and Paneveggio. London: Chapman and Hall, 1876. £95

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvii, 361, [4, pubs. list]; one folding map; inner hinges neatly restored, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, expertly restored to head and tail of spine. White (1811-1893) worked for the greater part of his life as librarian of the Royal Society of London. The position gave him access to some of the foremost people of the day, but also allowed him the opportunity to travel in his summers. His destination was often the Tyrol, and his walking tours in the region formed the basis for his On Foot in Tyrol (1856) and the present work, based on seven summers in the area.

112. Whymper, Edward. Scrambles amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69. London: John Murray, 1871.

£575

First edition. 8vo. pp. xviii, [ii, part title], 432; 22 wood-engraved plates, numerous wood-engravings to text, 6 folding maps or geological sections at rear; foxing to first and final leaves, else very good in the original cloth, sometime rebacked with the original spine laid down, ?new endpapers, a little wear to extremities. Wäber I.95; Neate W65; Perret 4557. Whymper made his first attempt on the Matterhorn in 1861, and he returned in 1862 and 1863 to make further attempts. In 1865, he joined a party that included the British climbers Charles Hudson and Francis Douglas, and the guides Michel Croz and the Taugwalders father and son; the party was also joined by a young and relatively inexperienced climber, Douglas Hadow. The party successfully made the first ascent of the mountain via the Hörnli Ridge, but on the descent Hadow slipped, knocking Croz off his feet and dragging Douglas and Hudson after them. Whymper and the Taugwalders were left stunned as the four men fell to their deaths. Scrambles describes Whymper’s attempts on and ultimate ascent of the Matterhorn, with illustrations after his original sketches. He issued four further editions of the book during his life time, each with minor alterations and additions.


114

113 113. Whymper, Edward. Scrambles amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69. London: John Murray, 1900. £375

Fifth edition. 8vo. pp. [iv], xviii, [ii, part title], 468, erratum slip loosely inserted at p. 115; 21 wood-engraved plates, numerous wood-engravings to text, 6 folding maps at rear; previous owner’s inscription and bookplate at front, else near-fine in the original blue cloth, gilt, a.e.g., slightly rubbed. Neate W65; Perret 4557. The fifth edition was the last version of Scrambles to appear in Whymper’s lifetime. As with previous editions, Whymper added new matter, some of it in a new Preface.

114. [Whymper, Edward.] Ian Smith. Shadow of the Matterhorn. The Life of Edward Whymper. Hildersley: Carreg, 2011. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 336; b & w illusts., some colour illusts.; new in original cloth, d.-w. Signed by the author Ian Smith to title-page. Edward Whymper crowned a meteoric climbing career with the first ascent in 1865 of the last great unclimbed summit in the Alps, the Matterhorn. He then made two expeditions to north west Greenland, and later undertook a remarkably successful trip to Ecuador, where he climbed the country’s highest mountains. In the early 1900s, he was invited by the Canadian Pacific Railway to visit and explore the Canadian Rockies - Mount Whymper in the Vermillion Pass area is named after his first ascent of that peak. Whymper himself described some of his experiences in books such

115

as Scrambles amongst the Alps and Travels amongst the Great Andes of the Equator, but not since Frank Smythe’s Edward Whymper (1940) has there been a full biography of the man. Ian Smith, who previously edited Whymper’s London Diary for the London Record Society in 2008, has written an excellent account of Whymper’s life and climbing achievements. Based on Whymper’s diaries and notebooks, Shadow of the Matterhorn also uses new material from archives around the world to give a fuller picture of this artisan from London, and reproduces many of Whymper’s engravings and previously unpublished photographs.

115. Wills, Alfred. Wanderings among the High Alps. London: Richard Bentley, 1856. £325

First edition. 8vo. pp. xviii, [1, errata], 384; 4 tinted lithographs after original sketches by the author’s wife; very good in contemporary half calf, gilt, slightly scuffed. Wäber I.85; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 12; Neate W94; Perret 4582; Meckly 220. Wanderings, a classic of the ‘Golden Age’ of Alpine mountaineering, was of importance in popularising mountaineering in the Alps. Wills (1828-1912) writes here of Chamonix and the Mer de Glace, and of an ascent of the Wetterhorn. The book is dedicated to Auguste Balmat, his guide on many ascents.

116 116. Wundt, Theodor. Wanderbilder aus den Dolomiten … In Farben gesetzt von Maler Professor G. Herdtle. Herausgegeben von der Sektion Berlin des Deutschen und Österreichischen Alpenvereins. Stuttgart, Leipzig, Berlin, Wien: Deutsche Verlags-Anstalt, n.d. [1894]. £1,250 First and only edition. Large folio (46 x 59cm.); pp. [iv], 10; 16 small photo. illusts. and 3 sketches to explanatory text, 16 large format plates from Wundt’s original photographs, 8 of which are coloured; minor chipping or creasing to margins of a few plates (not affecting text or image), small chip to lower outer corner of title-page, else very good in the original portfolio, upper cover with a striking chromolithographed view of the Dolomites, minor wear to extremities, else in very good condition. Perret 4609 (“Un superbe album sur les Dolomites. Très rare et recherché”). This very uncommon and impressive portfolio records some of Wundt’s ascents in the Dolomites, taken from his own photographs. The text provides an explanation for the sixteen large format plates, which show views of Monte Cristallo, Cimone della Pala, Croda la Lago, the Sorapiss, and other peaks. The book is very uncommon, and KVK/Worldcat locates only 8 copies worldwide.

25


117

118

119

120

121

the himalaya and karakoram 119. Astill, Tony. Mount Everest The Reconnaissance 1935. The Forgotten Adventure. Published by the Author, 2005. £95

Subscription edition, one of 250 copies, signed by the author. Royal 8vo. pp. [vii], xvii, 359, [2, ads.]; photo. illusts., folding maps; as new in the original cloth in double d.j., t.e.g. The 1935 Mount Everest Reconnaissance, led by Eric Shipton and including H. W. Tilman, was only previously known from articles written at the time and from secondary literature. The narrative of this historically important expedition was compiled by Tony Astill from the original expedition diaries and photographs, as well as maps based on Spender’s surveys. The book won the 2006 Mountaineering History prize at Banff.

26

122

123

117. Yung, Emile. Zermatt et la Vallée de la Viège. Gevève: Société anonyme des Arts graphiques, 1896. £250

Second edition. Large 4to. pp. [iv], 110; numerous phototype illusts.; very good in contemporary full crushed morocco by Birdsall of Northampton, gilt-decorated endpapers, t.e.g, a handsome copy. Wäber II.84; Perret 4641. A nicely illustrated album on the region, this copy in an attractive binding.

118. Zsigmony, Emil. Im Hochgebirge: Wanderungen. Leipzig: Duncker & Humblot, 1889. £275

First edition. Royal 8vo. pp. xv, 365; photogravure port. frontis., 16 photogravure plates of mountain scenes after E. T. Compton, numerous wood-engravings to text; armorial bookplate of A. H. Birch Reynardson, very good in contemporary crushed half morocco gilt by Zaehnsdorf, original cloth cover and spine bound in at front and rear, t.e.g, faded/ browned on spine, minor wear to extremities. Wäber I.107; Perret 4659. Zgismondy (1861-1885) was a noted Austrian mountaineer who died during an attempt on the north face of the Meije in South-Eastern France. The present work, posthumously published under the editorship of K. Schulz, offers accounts of Zsigmondy’s climbs in the Alps and the Dolomites. It includes a list of his successful climbs at the rear.

120. Bates, Robert H. et al. Five Miles High. The Story of an Attack on the Second Highest Mountain in the World by the Members of the First American Karakoram Expedition. New York: Dodd, Mead & Company, 1939. £325 First edition. 8vo. pp. xiii, 381; photo. illusts., illusts. to text, one folding temperature chart, map endpapers; age-toning to text, good in the original cloth, faded on spine. Signed by Bates and Charles Houston to title. Neate B58; Yakushi B165; Perret 0286. Bates, Houston and the other members of the 1938 K2 expedition put American Himalayan mountaineering on the map, and their book is now a classic of the genre. Bill House climbed the chimney on the lower section of the Abruzzi Ridge that still bears his name (House’s chimney).

121. Bauer, Paul. Himalayan Quest. The German Expeditions to Siniolchum and Nanga Parbat. London: Nicholson & Watson, 1938. £175 First English edition. 4to. pp. xxvi, 150; 96 full-page half-tone plates, 4 maps; occasional foxing, else VG in original cloth, in original d.j., which is frayed to extrems. with some loss at head and tail of spine. Neate B61; Yakushi B173b; Perret 0311. “This records the successful attacks of the German parties on Siniolchu and one of the Simvu peaks in Sikkim in 1936, and the disaster which overwhelmed Dr. Wien’s party on Nanga Parbat in 1937. The photos are all notable, often magnificent” (Yakushi). Sir Francis Younghusband provided a Foreword.

122. Bauer, Paul. The Siege of Nanga Parbat 1856-1953 … With a Preface by Sir John Hunt. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1956. £15

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 211; photo. illusts., 2 sketch maps; VG in the original cloth, in d.j. which is a little chipped. Neate B63; Yakushi B175b; Perret 0312. A history of the attempts on Nanga Parbat, in the Himalayan range between Gilgit, Baltistan and Kashmir, down to Buhl’s solo climb to the summit.

123. Bechtold, Fritz. Nanga Parbat Adventure. A Himalayan Expedition. Translated from the German … by H.E.G. Tyndale. London: John Murray, 1935. £35

Third impression. Royal 8vo. pp. xx, 93 + [2, advertisements]; photo. illusts., 3 full-page maps; VG in original cloth in original d.j., which is rubbed. Neate B69; Yakushi B212b; Perret 0337. The German second expedition to Nanga Parbat of 1934, led by Willy Merkl, met with bad weather, and resulted in the deaths of four Europeans, including the leader, and six Sherpas.


124

125

124. Bonatti, Walter. On the Heights … Translated from the Italian by Lovett F. Edwards. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1964. £450

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 248; photo. illusts.; VG in original cloth, in d.w., which is a little rubbed and slightly faded on spine.. Signed by Bonatti to the title. Neate B126; Yakushi B452d; Perret 0541. Bonatti ranks among the foremost climbers of his generation. The present autobiography describes his experiences on the first ascent of K2, Gasherbrum IV, and of climbs in the Alps (notably his solo ascent of the south-west pillar of the Dru), and in South America.

125. Bonington, Chris. Everest the Hard Way. London: Hodder & Stoughton, [1976]. £75

126

127

130. Bryant, L. V. (“Dan”). New Zealanders and Everest … With a Foreword by Sir Edmund Hillary. Wellington: A.H. & A.W. Reed, [1953]. £175

First edition. 8vo. pp. 48; 20 photo. illusts., one sketch map; very good in the original printed wrappers, slightly rubbed. Signed to the title-page by Ed Hillary. Ownership inscription of Michael Ward to title-page (Michael Ward was the doctor on the 1953 Everest Expedition). Neate B201; Yakushi B284; S & B B46; not in Perret. Bryant had accompanied Shipton on the 1935 Everest reconnaissance. The present work discusses the contribution of New Zealanders to mountaineering, notably on Everest, with Hillary’s successful ascent. Bryant devotes a chapter to the 1935 reconnaissance.

First edition. Small 4to. pp. 239; numerous coloured photo. illusts, sketch maps; near-fine in the original cloth, d.-w. Signed to title by Bonington. Neate B130; Yakushi B464a; Perret 0568; S & B B26. The leader’s account of the 1975 Everest expedition, when Doug Scott and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to reach the summit, via the south west face.

27

126. Bonington, Chris. Kongur China’s Elusive Summit. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1982]. £50

First edition. 8vo. pp. 224; numerous photo. illusts., sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, d.-w., slightly creased. Inscribed by the half-title: “For Andre All the best Chris Bonington”. Neate B133; Yakushi a07. A reconnaissance expedition led by Michael Ward visited Kongur in 1980, in preparation for a summit attempt in 1981, successfully attained by the climbing party - Bonington, Alan Rouse, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker.

127. Bonington, Chris & Charles Clarke. Everest. The Unclimbed Ridge. London: Hodder & Stoughton, [1983]. £75 First edition. 8vo. pp. 132; map endpapers, coloured illustrations, sketch maps, etc.; previous owner’s inscription to flyleaf rector, else a very good copy in the original cloth in d.-w., which is slightly faded to spine. Signed to the title-page by Chris Bonington and Charles Clarke. Neate B131; Yakushi B467; Perret 0574; S & B B28. An account of the 1982 attempt on the NE ridge, during which Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker were lost crossing the Pinnacles

128

129

128. Bonington, Chris. The Everest Years. A Climber’s Life. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1986. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. 256; numerous photo. illusts., sketch maps to text; VG in original cloth, in d.-w. Inscribed by author to half-title, and also signed by Doug Scott. Neate a03; Yakushi B468; Perret 0570; S & B B29. The author’s account of climbs on Everest in 1972, 1975, and 1985, as well as on K2 and his ascent of Mount Vinson (Antarctica’s highest peak). Doug Scott made the first British ascent of Everest with Dougal Haston on the 1975 expedition led by Bonington.

129. Brown, Joe. The Hard Years. London: Victor Gollancz, 1967. £75

Second impression (same year as 1st). 8vo. pp. 256; photo. illusts.; G in original cloth, d.j., which has some time been sellotaped to endpapers with subsequent marks. Signed by author to half-title. Neate B185; Yakushi B584; Perret 0729. Brown’s autobiography, with details of climbs in Britain and the Alps, the first ascents of Mustagh Tower and Kangchenjunga, and the ascent of Communism Peak on the Pamirs expedition.

130


131 132 131. Buhl, Hermann. Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage. A Mountaineer’s autobiography by Hermann Buhl who climbed Alone to the Summit of Nanga Parbat. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1956. £475

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 360; photo. illusts., 3 sketch maps; sellotape marks to endpapers, else VG in original blue cloth, bumped to outer corners, in d.j. which is chipped and soiled. Signed to title by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller and Qader Saeed (correction to date). Neate B210; Yakushi B617b; Perret 0756. The first English translation of Buhl’s autobiography. This copy is signed by Schmuck and Wintersteller, who were with Buhl on his later expedition to Broad Peak, and the Pakistani liaison officer on that expedition, Qader Saeed.

28

132. Clydesdale, The Marquess of Douglas and Clydesdale & D.F. M’Intyre. The Pilots’ Book of Everest … With a Preface by Lt.-Col. The Rt. The Lord Tweedsmuir. William Hodge & Company, Limited, [1936]. £250

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvi, 209; photo. illusts. inc. 3 folding, 3 maps inc. one folding; some spotting, else very good in the original cloth, d.-w., which is very browned and worn on spine with small chip to centre of spine, soiled. With a loosely inserted typed letter to Sir F. H. G. Peek, on Dungavel headed notepaper, 6th June, 1933, from Clydesdale. Neate C86; Yakushi C129; S & B C32; not in Perret. In 1933, the HoustonMount Everest expedition achieved the first flight over the mountain. In the present work, the pilots present their account of the expedition, thereby supplementing the official account given in First Over Everest (1933). The letter with this copy replies to the request for a contribution to “this year’s Eton Ephemera Change … I enclose an article on our first flight, which I fear is over 900 words. Please, however, do not hesitate to shorten or alter it in any way to suit the paper”. We have not been able to ascertain whether the article was ever published.

133. Collie, J. Norman. Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges. Edinburgh: David Douglas, 1902. £1,250

First edition. 8vo. pp. xi, 315, [1, ad.]; 18 photogravure plates, 3 folding maps; very clean and fine in the original green cloth, gilt, t.e.g., or or two minor marks, an exceptional copy. Neate C94; Yakushi C133; Perret 1059. Collie, a one-time president of the Alpine Club (1920-2), accompanied Mummery on his ill-fated expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1895. Collie devotes the first third of this account of his climbs to the Himalaya, followed by sections on the Canadian Rockies, the Alps, and other European peaks.

133

134. Conefrey, Mick. Everest 1953. The Epic Story of the First Ascent. Oxford: Oneworld, [2012]. £20 First edition. 8vo. pp. xiv, 322; illusts.; original cloth in d.j., new. Signed by the author to the title-page. The first book-length account of the successful first ascent of Everest since John Hunt’s The Ascent of Everest (1953).

134


135 135. Conway, Sir William Martin. Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram-Himalayas. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1894.

£1,750

First edition. 8vo. 2 vols. (Text/Scientific Reports). Text: pp. xxviii, 709, [1, ad.], with numerous illusts. from drawings by A.D. McCormick, one folding map; Reports: pp. viii, 127, with a photogravure frontis. of Conway, and two maps contained in pockets at front and rear; inner hinges of text vol. cracked, near-fine in the original cloth, gilt, pictorial vignettes to upper covers and spine of text vol., t.e.g., small ink spot to upper cover of Reports vol. Neate C103; Yakushi (3rd ed.) C336a; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 43; Perret 1088. “This work describes the first major British expedition to explore and climb in the Himalaya, one of the greatest of all mountain explorations. It accomplished a number of firsts and laid the groundwork for later explorations. Conway, who organized and led the expedition, climbed a 23,000-foot peak and traversed three great glaciers - the Hispar, Biafo, and Baltoro…” (Cox). The expedition included Charles G. Bruce, later to lead the 1922 Everest climbing expedition. The second volume of scientific reports, often lacking, contains essays on geological, zoological, botanical and medical aspects of the expedition by A. G. Durand, Conway, Bonney, and others.

136. Curran, Jim. K2 Triumph and Tragedy. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1987. £50

First edition. 8vo. pp. 219; photo. illusts., sketch maps; near-fine in d.j. Signed by author to title. Yakushi C405a; Perret 1176. Curran began his 1986 season on K2 as a cameraman to document a British attempt. When the expedition failed, its leader Al Rowse joined the Austrian team that included Diemberger and the Briton Julie Tullis; Curran returned to base camp. He was present when the survivors of the expedition returned, a storm having taken the lives of five of the seven team members.

137. Denman, Earl. Alone to Everest. London: Collins, 1954.

29

£25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 256pp.; photo. illusts, 4 sketch maps; VG in the original cloth, d.j. Neate D17; Yakushi D153a; Perret 1284; S & B D05. The story of Denman’s ascents of the eight principal summits of the Virunga mountains in the Belgian Congo, followed by his remarkable 1947 journey with Tenzing through Sikkim and Tibet to Everest, where they reached a height of 23,500 feet before bad weather turned them back.

137

136

138. Desio, Ardito. Ascent of K2 Second Highest Peak in the World. London: Elek Books, [1955]. £750

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 239; photo. illusts., sketch maps to text; spotting to fore-edge, else very good in the original cloth, d.-w., a little chipped and soiled. Signed by the two summiters Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni to labels pasted on title and dedication leaf. Neate D21; Yakushi D167b; Perret 1298. Though only slightly lower than Everest in height, K2 offers the greater challenge. In 1954, an Italian expedition under Desio made an attempt on the mountain, which in spite of setbacks proved successful. The present book gives the leader’s account of the expedition, and this copy contains labels signed by Lacedelli and Compagnoni, who made the first ascent.

139. Diemberger, Kurt. Gipfel und Geheimnisse. Nur die Geister der Luft wissen, was mir begegnet … Vienna: Orac, [1970]. £35

First edition. 8vo. pp. 357, [1, ad.]; text in German; photo. illusts., sketch maps; fine in the original cloth, d.j. Signed by Diemberger to the title. Yakushi D233a; Perret 1348. Autobiographical account of the author’s climbs in the Alps, the Hindu Kush, and the Himalaya, including the first ascents of Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri.

138

139


140

141

142

143

144

International Karakoram Expedition to the Baltoro glacier and peaks in the K2 region. The work was revised and expanded in 1939, when it was published under the name Baltoro (see next item).

143. Dyhrenfurth, Günter O. Baltoro. Ein Himalaya-Buch … Mit Beiträgen von Hettie Dyhrenfurth, Hans Ertl und André Roch. Basel: Benno Schwabe & Co. Verlag, [1939]. £275

145

30

140. Diemberger, Kurt. Seiltanz. Die Geschichten meines Lebens. Munich: Malik, [2007]. £35

First edition. 8vo. pp. 330, [3, pubs. ads.]; text in German; photo. illusts.; fine in original cloth, in d.j. Signed by Diemberger to title. An autobiographical account of Diemberger’s climbing achievements, including details of the ascent of Broad Peak with Hermann Buhl, and of Buhl’s death a few weeks later on Chogolisa.

141. Dittert, Rene et al. Forerunners to Everest. The Story of the Two Swiss Expeditions of 1952. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd., [1954]. £45

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 256; col. frontis., b & w photo. illusts., sketch maps; slight spotting to fore-edge, else VG in original cloth, d.j. which is also a little spotted. Neate D32; Yakushi C178b; Perret 0976; S & B D18; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 38. The Swiss expeditions in the year prior to the first ascent of Everest included Tenzing among its members. He and Lambert reached 28,200 before having to turn back.

142. Dyhrenfurth, Günter O. Dämon Himalaya. Bericht der Internationalen Karakoram-Expedition 1934. Basel: Benno Schwabe & Co. Verlag, [1935]. £125 First edition. 8vo. pp. vii, 110, [1], + 123 photo. illusts. on 40ll. + one folding map/panorama; text in German; some foxing to map, else VG in the original cloth, gilt. Yakushi D384; Perret 1472. This is the leader’s account of the 1934

First edition thus. 8vo. pp. 194 + 202 photographic illustrations on 72pp.; text in German; 2 illusts. to text; a separate portfolio containing 4 folding photographic panoramas, 4 sketch maps on one folding sheet, 50 mountain profiles on 22 sheets; a near-fine copy in original cloth, contained with the portfolio in the original publisher’s slipcase. Yakushi D385; Perret 1472 (“L’édition revue et augmentée de 1939, complète des illustrations [as here], est plus recherchée que l’édition originale”). This is a revised edition of the same author’s Dämon Himalaya (1935, see previous item). The work is divided into 3 parts. The first details orographical aspects of the subject; the second offers a series of articles concerning the expedition; the third offers a wealth of photographic images from the expedition.

144. Dyhrenfurth, Günter O. To the Third Pole. The History of the High Himalaya. London: Werner Laurie, [1955]. £35

First English edition. Square 8vo. pp. xxxix, 233; photo. illusts., sketch maps to text; free endpapers partially browned, else VG in the original cloth, in d.-w., which is slightly chipped Neate D64; Yakushi D387b; Perret 1473. History of attempts on the Himalayan peaks written by the German-Swiss leader of the 1930 International Karakoram expedition.

145. Eiselin, Max. Erfolg am Dhaulagiri. Die Erstbesteigung des Achttausenders durch die Schweizerische Himalaya-Expedition 1960. Zurich: Orell Füssli, [1960]. £175

First edition. 8vo. pp. 204; text in German; photo. illusts., 2 sketch maps; VG in the original cloth, d.j. which is a little frayed and strengthened internally. Loosely inserted is the official expedition postcard, signed by Eiselin, the four summiters (Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer and Albin Schelbert), expedition member Adam Skoczylas, and two porters (one a thumb print). Yakushi E36a; Perret 1491. The successful Swiss Expedition of 1960 to the 8,222m Dhaulagiri, until then the highest unclimbed mountain in the world and the last but one of 8,000m peaks to be climbed. This copy contains a postcard signed by members of the expedition.


146 146. Evans, Charles. Kangchenjunga. The Untrodden Peak. London: Hodder & Stoughton, [1956].

£950

First edition. 8vo. pp. xix, 187; coloured and b & w photo. illusts., 2 sketch maps, 5 diagrams; slight spotting to fore-edge, bookplate of Gerald Franklin, else VG in original cloth, d.-w., which is browned. Signed by expedition member George Band to title, and with a loosely inserted sheet of Kangchenjunga Expedition 1955 letterhead signed by expedition members Cluff, Band, Streather, Mather, Jackson, Evans, Mackinnon and Brown. Neate E27; Yakushi E115a; Perret 1535; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 58. Considered to be the most difficult to climb of the Himalayan peaks, Kangchenjunga was finally scaled by a British team led by the author in 1955, when Joe Brown and George Band reached the summit - though, in deference to the local belief that the summit was the home of a god the pair did not set foot on the actual summit (hence the book’s subtitle, The Untrodden Peak).

147. [Everest 1953.] Ascent of Everest 1953. N.p., n.d. [1953]. £175

31

First edition. 4to. pp. [20, including wrappers]; 10 photo. illusts., route map inside front wrapper; some time folded vertically, else good in the original pictorial wrappers, small tear to lower margin of rear wrapper. Signed to front wrapper by E. P. Hillary (a little faint). Not in the usual bibliographies. This programme for the Gala Premier Lecture held at Royal Festival Hall on Tuesday 15th September 1953, at 8pm, contains a foreword by Prince Philip, an introduction by the Presidents of the Alpine Club and the RGS, and text by Wilfrid Noyce. This copy is signed to the upper cover by Hillary, who with Tenzing made the first ascent.

148. [Everest. Map.] ‘Sagarmatha [in Nepali]. Mount Everest. Qomolangma [in Chinese].’ A large folding map issued as a Supplement to the National Geographic Magazine, November 1988.  £50

A large folding coloured map, scale 1:50 000, approx. 91.5 x 58.5cm.), with a second map to the verso “High Himalaya. A Computer-Generated Landscape Portrait”, folding into a small pamphlet, slight soiling to one fold at head of map, offered without the original issue of the National Geographic Magazine. Signed by the cartographer Bradford Washburn to lower right of the image. Yakushi m185; S & B W07. Prepared as a joint research project between the National Geographic Society, the Henry S. Hall jr. Everest Fund of the Museum of Science, Boston, the Nepalese Government and China’s National Bureau of Surveying and Mapping, this excellent map was compiled by Bradford Washburn and others using photographic and similar data taken by aerial survey and satellite tracking.

147

148


149 149. Filippi, Filippo de. Karakoram and Western Himalaya 1909. An Account of the Expedition of H.R.H. Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi. London: Constable and Company Ltd., 1912. £2,250

First English edition. 2 vols. (Text/Atlas). 4to. Text.: pp. xvii, 469; photogravure frontis. and 25 photogravure plates after photos. by Vittorio Sella, 5 double-page plates, 2 coloured plates, illusts. to text; minor foxing to title-page, recased with new endpapers in the original cloth, lettering faded on spine; Atlas: 3 folding maps, 18 panoramas on 17 sheets, and one List of Illustrations and Index, loosely contained as issued in the original cloth portfolio, Neate F26; Yakushi F71B; Perret 1657. Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873-1933), led several important exploring expeditions to the great ranges, and also to the Arctic. He was accompanied on these expeditions by the climber Filippo de Filippi (1869-1938). The 1909 Karakoram expedition aimed to reach the highest altitude then recorded by making an attempt on K2. A reconnaissance of the area led to the Duke’s decision to make the attempt via what became known as the Abruzzi ridge. The attempt failed, but the expedition succeeded in gaining the highest altitude then known by climbing the neighbouring Bride Peak (Chogolisa) to a height of 7500m. The various stages of the expedition were recorded by the renowed Alpine photographer Vittorio Sella, whose images illustrate these volumes, a magnificent record of the Duke’s expedition.

150. Franco, Jean. Makalu 8470 metres [27,790 feet]. The highest Peak yet conquered by an entire team. London: Jonathan Cape, [1957].  £275

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 256; col. frontis., photo. illusts.; very good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is a little chipped to extrems. Neate F52; Yakushi F183c; Perret 1741. An account by the leader of the successful French expedition to Makalu, during which Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy made the first ascent; Franco, Guido Magnone and Gyaltsen Norbu reached the summit the following day.

32

151. Franco, Jean & Lionel Terray. At Grips with Jannu … With a Preface by Lucien Devies. Trans. Hugh Merrick. London: Victor Gollancz Limited, 1967. £20

150

151

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 192; photo. illusts., 5 sketch maps; VG in original cloth, in d.j. which is rubbed and discoloured to head of spine. Neate F53; Yakushi F184b; Perret 1743. A record of the expeditions to Jannu in 1959 and 1962, culminating in a first ascent by a team that included Terray.

152. Freshfield, Douglas W. Round Kangchenjunga. London: Edward Arnold, 1903.  £675

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvi, 373; 40 plates, one folding panorama, 1 map to text, 2 folding maps; spotting to fore-edge, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, faded with mottling to spine, initials incised to upper board, still a very good copy. Neate F69; Yakushi F124a; Perret 1760. Freshfield, who had previously climbed in the Alps and the Caucasus, visited the Himalaya in 1899 with Vittorio Sella, the renowned Alpine photographer, and the geologist Edmund Garwood. They made a circuit around Kangchenjunga, commencing at Darjeeling and crossing to the Zemu Glacier, from where Sella took stunning images of the peaks.


153

154

156

155

153. Gregory, Alfred. The Picture of Everest. A book of full-colour reproductions of photographs of the Everest scene … With an introduction by Sir John Hunt. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1954].  £50

158. Herzog, Maurice & Marcel Ichac. Regards vers l’Annapurna. Paris & Grenoble: B. Artaud, [1951]. £350

154. Gregory, Alfred. Alfred Gregory’s Everest. With a Foreword by Jan Morris. London: Constable, [1993]. £75

159. Herzog, Maurice & Marcel Ichac. Regards vers l’Annapurna. Paris & Grenoble: B. Artaud, [1951]. £425

First edition, in the deluxe binding. Small 4to. pp. [96]; numerous full-page colour photo. illusts., logistical chart of ascent on rear-endpaper; very good in original parchment boards, in pale-blue.d.-w., which is browned on spine and to extremities, and slightly frayed. Neate G62; Yakushi G261; Perret 2048; S & B G14. Gregory was the official photographer on the 1953 Everest expedition.

First edition. 8vo. pp. 183; numerous b & w photo. illusts.; very good in the original cloth, d.j. Signed by Jan Morris to the title-page. S & B G15. A selection of Gregory’s photographs of the 1953 Everest expedition, some not previously published, issued to mark the 40th anniversary of the first ascent.

155. Habeler, Peter. Everest: Impossible Victory. London: Arlington Books, [1979]. £250

First edition. 4to. pp. xv, 96, [iii]; text in French; numerous photo. illusts., one loosely inserted map; VG in original card wrappers in pictorial dustjacket, some rubbing and chipping to d.j. Signed to p. vii by co-author Marcel Ichac, and by expedition members Marcel Schatz, Jean Couzy (in pencil), and F. de Noyelle (smudged). Yakushi H292; Perret 2239. A photographic record of the French ascent of Annapurna, based on images taken by Ichac, Herzog, Rébuffat, Lachenal, Oudot and Schatz.

First edition. 4to. pp. xv, 96, [iii]; text in French; numerous photo. illusts., one loosely inserted map; very good in the publisher’s designer binding with stylised motif to front and rear board. Signed to half-title by Herzog and by Lionel Terray. Yakushi H292; Perret 2239. An example of the special binding used by the publishers.

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 223; coloured and b & w photo. illusts.; nearfine in the original cloth, d.-w., else near-fine, signed by both Habeler and Reinhold Messner to the title. Neate H01; Yakushi H08b; Perret 2131; S & B H01. Translated from the previous year’s first German edition by David Heald, this is Habeler’s account of his ascent of Everest, with Reinhold Messner, the first to be made without oxygen.

156. Habeler, Peter & Karin Steinbach. Das Ziel ist der Gipfel. Innsbruck: Tyrolia, [2008]. £35 Second edition [1st pub. 2007]. 8vo. pp. 200; text in German; photo. illusts.; fine in the original cloth, d.j. Inscribed by the author “Für Richard Sale heiflichst Peter Habeler”. Peter Habeler and Reinhold Messner made the first ascent of Everest without oxygen in 1978. Habeler here recounts this and other climbs in the Alps, Himalaya and elsewhere.

157

157. Harrer, Heinrich. Seven Years In Tibet. Translated from the German by Richard Graves. With an Introduction by Peter Fleming. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1953. £250

Second impression. 8vo. pp. xiii, 288; coloured frontis., photo. illusts., one double-page sketch map; good in the original cloth, in d.-w., which is frayed with some sellotape repairs, sellotape adhesion to endpapers. Signed by the author to flyleaf in Roman letters and in Tibetan. Neate H40; Yakushi H90b; Perret 2167. Harrer took part in the 1938 first ascent of the Eiger’s North Face, and the following year joined an expedition to Nanga Parbat in the Himalaya. On his return from the expedition, he and his colleagues were made prisoners-of-war, and Seven Years in Tibet tells the story of his internment and subsequent escape.

158

159

33


160

161

162

161. Hillary, Peter & John E. Elder. In the Ghost Country. A Lifetime Spent on the Edge. Edinburgh & London: Mainstream, [2004]. £30

First edition. 8vo. pp. [vii], 343; illusts.; near-fine in the original cloth, d.-w. Inscribed to the title “To John Heap, Onward & upward. Always! Thanks for having me here at SPRI. Peter Hillary. SPRI 20.4.2005”. An account of Hillary’s ski-expedition, with two companions, to the South Pole, followed by memoirs of Everest, and time in the Himalayas with his father and family. Hillary inscribed this copy to John Heap, the Polar expert.

162. Hillary, Sir Edmund and George Lowe. East of Everest. An Account of the New Zealand Alpine Club Himalayan Expedition to the Barun Valley in 1954. [London:] Hodder & Stoughton, [1956]. £475

34

164

163

First edition. Large 8vo. pp. 70, [2], 48 (b & w photo. illusts.); two sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, in d.j., which is chipped and browned on spine with sellotape repair at head. Signed by the authors to the title. Neate H79; Yakushi H317a; not in Perret. The New Zealand Alpine Club expedition to the Barun valley included three members of the previous year’s successful Everest expedition, Hillary, Lowe and Charles Evans.

163. [Hillary.] Michael Gill. Edmund Hillary. A Biography. Sheffield: Vertebrate Publishing, 2019. £35

First UK edition. Limited signed edition. 8vo. pp. [i, limitation leaf], 544; photo. illusts., map endpapers; new in original cloth, d.-w. Gill was a close friend of Edmund Hillary, and his biography first appeared in New Zealand in 2017. This is the first UK edition, this copy being one of 200 specially signed by the author to the limitation leaf.

164. Houston, Charles S., Robert H. Bates & George I. Bell. K2 8611M. Paris: Arthaud, [1954]. £250

165 160. Herzog, Maurice et al. Himalaya 1950. [Melun: Imp. Legrand et Fils], n.d. c. 1951. £225

4to. pp. [24 inc. wrappers]; text in French; portraits of the expedition team, 6 photos. from illusts., one sketch map of the ascent, one sketch map of the Annapurna area; some crinkling due to moisture, good in the original printed wrappers, stain to rear cover. Signed by the Maurice Herzog and Gaston Rébuffat (slightly indistinct). A brochure celebrating the first ascent of Annapurna with a preface by Lucien Devies, President of the Club Alpin Français and 6pp. of text by Maurice Herzog describing the expedition and its success. The illustrations shows scenes from the expedition, and there are adverts to the first and last three pages. The front cover is signed by the expedition leader Herzog, and by expedition member Gaston Rébuffat.

First and only edition. 4to. pp. 100; numerous coloured and b & w illusts., map loosely inserted as issued; very good in the original wrappers and d.j., spine rubbed, ‘K2’ lettering to upper cover faded. A presentation copy from Robert Bates to Betty Lowe, sister of George Lowe, inscribed “Exeter N.H. May 8, 1955. All good wishes to Betty Lowe in memory of our joint ascent in the Hastings area last January Bob Bates.” Yakushi H246; Perret 2286. The experiences of the Americans on K2 in 1953 was recorded in Houston & Bates’s classic book K2: The Savage Mountain. This present view-book of the expedition appeared only in France, since the authors’ US publisher did not expect the book to sell well in the English-speaking world. This copy was presented by co-author Bob Bates to Betty Lowe, the sister of George Lowe (Everest 1953, TransAntarctic expedition 1955-8).

165. [Houston, Charles S.] Bernadette McDonald. Brotherhood of the Rope. The Biography of Charles Houston. Seattle: The Mountaineers, [2007]. £95

First edition. 8vo. pp. 250, [4, ads.]; photo. illusts., DVD as issued to pocket inside rear board; fine in the original boards. Signed by Houston to title. A biography of the mountaineer and high-altitude physiologist, who took part in the 1938 American expedition to K2.


35

166. Hunt, Sir John. The Ascent of Everest. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1954.

£12,500

Fourth impression. 8vo. pp. xx, 300; coloured and b & w illusts., illusts. to text; folding “Chart of the Ascent of Everest”; very good in the original cloth, in original d.j. which is frayed with internal tape repairs. Michael Ward’s copy, signed by other members of the expedition at Pen y Gwryd during the 25th Anniversary of the first ascent of Everest, signed additionally by them on subsequent meetings, and further signed by numerous other mountaineering luminaries; with loosely inserted ephemera. This unique copy of Hunt’s account of the successful first ascent of Everest belonged to Michael Ward, a member of that expedition, and also of the 1951 Everest Reconnaissance that confirmed the southern route used by the 1953 expedition. Ward took this copy with him to meetings of the team, both at Pen y Gwryd hotel for the 25th anniversary in 1978, but also to their meetings in 1988 and 1993, plus the Everest conference at the RGS in 1990. Ward obtained signatures from the members of the team present on those occasion - including Hillary and Tenzing who made the first successful ascent - and also from members of previous Everest expeditions (Noel Odell, Jack Longland, Charles Warren, Peter Lloyd, and others), as well as members of subsequent expeditions: Eggler, Roch and Marmet (first Swiss ascent in 1956), Doug Scott (first Briton), Zawada (first winter ascent). The book is also signed by notable mountaineers such as Bernard Pierre, Maurice Herzog, Brad Washburn, Pertemba Sherpa, Gompu, Chris Bonington, and others. These signatures fill both front and rear endpapers of the book, and the two leaves adjacent to them. In addition, Ward inserted into this copy the signature of Qu Yinhua (“Chu Jin-Hua”), one of the three who reached the summit of Everest on the 1960 Chinese expedition. Finally, Ward has inserted various other ephemeral items into the book, notably a sheet of letterhead from the Office of the High Commissioner for the United Kingdom in New Delhi signed by nearly all members of the 1953 Everest expedition (Hunt, Gregory, Stobart, Hillary, Westmacott, Band, James Morris, Noyce, Lowe, Ward, Tenzing, Pugh, Wylie and Evans - this last added later; Bourdillon’s signature is not present). Ward probably selected this fourth impression of the book for signatures since it is the first to include the folding “Chart of the Ascent of Everest” (p. 236). According to Ward’s personal testimony, no other member of the expedition brought their copy of the book to each of their meetings, and he alone added signatures from other notable Everesters and mountaineers.


167 167. Hunt, John. The Ascent of Everest. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1953.

£775

First edition. 8vo. pp. xx, 300; coloured and b & w illusts., illusts. to text; minor foxing, else very good in presentation crushed half morocco by Sangorski & Sutcliffe, gilt, a.e.g., with loosely inserted a TLS from R. W. Lloyd (Hon. Treasurer) on British Mount Everest Expedition, 1953, stationery, presenting the book to P. J. Gratwick of Courtaulds Limited, and a compliment slip signed by Lloyd on similar stationery. Neate H135; Yakushi H269a; Perret 2304; S & B H31. This copy of Hunt’s account of the first ascent of Everest was specially bound at the request of the committee to the Expedition for presentation to P. J. Gratwick of the clothing firm Courtaulds. According to the book’s appendix, Courtaulds supplied the expedition with Rayon string vests.

168. Hunt, John. The Ascent of Everest. London: University of London Press Ltd., [1954]. £50

First edition thus [”Edited and Abridged for Schools”]. 8vo. pp. 160; photo. illusts., illusts. to text; minor spotting and soiling, juvenile marking to rear endpapers, good in the original cloth, soiled. Signed by the author to the half-title. Neate H155; S&B H31; this edition not in Yakushi.

169. Japanese Alpine Club. Manaslu 1952-3. Tokyo: Mainichi Newspapers, 1954. £375

36

168

First edition. Royal 8vo. pp. [i, title], 68 [photo. illusts.], [1, map], 217 (text in Japanese) + 17 (summary in English), 2 coloured maps inc. one folding; minor marginal tears to two leaves, upper hinge slightly cracked, else VG in original cloth, in d.j. which is slightly frayed with minor loss to extremities. Neate J16; Yakushi jN111. The official account of the Japanese expeditions to Manaslu in 1952 and 1953. The Japanese later made a successful ascent in 1956.

169

170. [K2.] ‘K2 Italia. Serie Fotografico.’ A complete set of lobby cards with two posters for the film of the 1954 Italian K2 Expedition, directed by Marcello Baldi. Firenze: Zincografica, [1955] £875

A large envelope, containing 10 lobby cards, each with a photographic scene from the expedition, approx. 48 x 34 cm., together with two posters for the film, each approx. 68 x 48 cm., one or two short marginal tears, one poster slightly browned to verso and with a few tape repairs, overall in very good condition, the envelope slightly worn. These large format images would have been used in cinemas to advertise Baldi’s film of the Italian ascent of K2. It seems unlikely that complete sets survive in large quantities, particularly in the original envelope in which they were distributed. Rare.

170


171 171. [Kangchenjunga 1955.] John A. Jackson. An airmail letter from Jackson (“Jacko”) to George Lowe, written at Kangchenjunga Expedition 1955 Base Camp (18,200ft), April 27th 1955.  £1,250

3pp. written on an airmail letter, expedition cachet to address field, postmarked ‘Darjeeling 9 May 1955’, sender’s name c/o Mrs J. Henderson, Rungneet Tea Estate, Darjeeling, India, signed “Jacko”. John Jackson had been a reserve member of the 1953 Everest expedition, and took part in the successful Kangchenjunga ascent two years later. This chatty letter, written from the expedition base camp, informs Lowe that the “new Base Camp is now established near Packe’s Grave and Camps I and II will be in position anytime now. Weather isn’t very good …” He asks “How did the duplicate Kodachromes turn out? If you are wondering what to do with my originals please send them to my brother’s home …”. The letter concludes “I believe you are keen on this Antarctic journey [Lowe joined the Trans-Antarctic Expedition 1955-8 as photographer] and if so I hope things are progressing sastisfactorily. I’m afraid it’s back to teaching those wonderful children again for me - though really it isn’t a bad life is it - and here three times in four years”.

37

172 172. Kohli, M. S. Nine Atop Everest. Story of the Indian Ascent. Foreword by Indira Gandhi. Orient Longmans Limited, Bombay, Calcutta, Madras, New Delhi, [1969]. £45

First edition. 8vo. pp. xxvii, 384; coloured and b & w illusts., sketch maps and illusts. at rear; bumped to upper outer margins, adhesion damage to half-title from flyleaf, else VG in original cloth, in d.-w., which is slightly spotted and chipped. Neate K43; Yakushi K267; S & B K23; not in Perret. The first successful Indian expedition to Everest (1965), the third Indian attempt. The expedition saw nine of its members ascend to the summit in succession, a record at that time.

173 174. [Lhotse 1975.] Giuseppe Nangeroni, ed. Le Osservazioni scientifiche. Relazioni del gruppo scientifico… Coordonazione Mario Fantin. [Milan:] Club Alpino Italiano, 1977. £35

4tp. pp. [89]-171 + [64, illusts.]; two folding charts in rear pocket; very good in the original card wrappers, which are a little foxed. Estratto da Lhotse ‘75 Spedizione alpinistico-scientifica del C.A.I. all’Himalaya del Nepal. This publication extracts the scientific portion of a larger work that also included details of the climbing by Riccardo Cassin.

173. Kurz, Marcel, et al. The Mountain World 1953 [-1968/9]. London: George Allen & Unwin, 1953-1970. £250

First editions. 10 vols. Large 8vo. numerous illusts., sketch maps; some occasional spotting or foxing, else very good in the original cloth, d.-w.s, which are slightly chipped, upper cover of first vol. scuffed, minor soiling to one or two spines. Neate j78. This is a complete set of The Mountain World, a yearly journal with articles relating to the major mountaineering expeditions of each year. The first volume includes accounts of the Swiss attempts on Everest, followed in the 1954 volume by details of the successful ascent in 1953.

174


Lowe wrote these very personal letters to his family at home in New Zealand from Everest in 1953. This limited edition version of the book is signed by the editor and contributors Jan Morris and Peter Hillary. The endpapers feature an illustration of Everest by Julian Heaton Cooper, son of William Heaton Cooper who conceived the dust-jacket design for John Hunt’s The Ascent of Everest. This edition additionally features a portrait of Lowe from Ed Hillary’s photograph of him at Base Camp in 1953, and a tipped-in section of cloth from the sleeping bag that Lowe used on Everest.

176. Mallory, George. Boswell the Biographer. London: Smith, Elder & Co., 1912. £125

175

176

175. Lowe, George. Letters from Everest. Edited and Introduced by Huw Lewis-Jones. Foreword by Jan Morris. Afterword by Peter Hillary. Silverbear, 2013. £250

Limited edition, one of 60 copies. Small 8vo. pp. 176; illusts.; new in original pictorial boards, in purpose-made slipcase.

First and only edition. 8vo. pp. ix, 337, [2, ads.]; portrait frontispiece of Boswell after the drawing by George Dance; some spotting, good in the original cloth, gilt, somewhat marked, chip with slight loss to head of lower joint. George Mallory disappeared on Everest in 1924, and his name is primarily associated with the mountain. But climbing was not his only interest, and the present work testifies to his enjoyment of the life and work of James Boswell, Samuel Johnson’s friend and biographer. Based on his Member’s Prize Essay written during his final year at Cambridge, Boswell the Biographer was Mallory’s only book-length publication.

177. Maraini, Fosco. Karakoram. The Ascent of Gasherbrum IV. Translated from the Italian by James Cadell. New York: The Viking Press, 1961. £500

First US edition. pp. 320; coloured and b & w illusts., map endpapers; minor foxing, else VG in the original cloth, d.-w., which is slightly frayed. Signed by expedition members Walter Bonatti and Riccardo Cassin to title. Neate M47; Yakushi M168b; Perret 2809. Maraini’s account of the successful Italian expedition of 1958, under the leadership of Riccardo Cassin, who has signed this copy, as has expedition member Walter Bonatti.

38 177

179. Messner, Reinhold. The Challenge. London: Kaye & Ward, [1977]. £150

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 205; photo. illusts., sketch maps; VG in original cloth, d.j. Signed by Messner to half-title. Neate M87; Yakushi M336d; Perret 2949. In 1975 Messner joined an expedition led by Ricardo Cassin to climb Lhotse’s South Face. The attempt failed, and Messner instead joined Peter Habeler to make a successful ascent of Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) without oxygen. Their alpine style ascent opeedn a new era in the history of Himalayan climbing.

180. Messner, Reinhold. The Crystal Horizon. Everest - the First Solo Ascent. Ramsbury: The Crowood Press, [1989]. £125

178

179

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 321; photo. illusts., sketch maps; near-fine in original cloth, d.j. Signed by Messner at front. Yakushi M341e; Perret 2955. Messner’s solo ascent of Everest, accomplished from the north side in 1980, remains one of the great mountaineering achievements.

178. Maraini, Fosco. Paropàmiso. Spedizione romana all’Hindu-Kush ed ascensione del Picco Saraghrar (7350 m). Bari:Leonardi da Vinci, 1963. £275

First edition. Small 4to. xii, 422; photo. illusts., 7 maps inc. some folding, map endpapers; very good in the original cloth, small indents to upper board, in the original d.-w. and the original card slipcase (a little worn and browned). A presentation copy inscribed and signed by an unidentifiable hand on the half-title to Prof. G. O. Dyhrenfurth, with the subsequent bookplate and signature of Norman Dyhrenfurth. Yakushi M169a. An account of the successful Italian expedition to Saraghar in North Chitral in 1959, translated into English as Where Four Worlds Meet (1964).

180


181

182

183

181. Messner, Reinhold. Free Spirit. A Climber’s Life. Seattle: The Mountaineers, [1991]. £75

First US edition. 8vo. pp. 250; photo. illusts., sketch maps; fine in original cloth, d.j. Signed by Messner to title. Yakushi M347b; Perret 2961. The author’s autobiography includes details of his climbs on the 8000ers; the English edition contains two additional chapters not present in the original German edition (on the author’s expeditions to Antarctica in 1989-90, and the south face of Lhotse in 1990).

182. Messner, Reinhold. To the Top of the World. Alpine Challenges in the Himalaya and Karakoram. Ramsbury: The Crowood Press, [1992]. £20 First English edition. 8vo. pp. 256; photo. illusts.; near-fine in the original cloth, d.j. Yakushi B349c. Accounts of Messner’s more notable ascents, including his solo ascents of Nanga Parbat and Everest.

184

186. [Morshead, Henry.] Ian Morshead. The Life and Murder of Henry Morshead … A True Story from the Days of the Raj with an introduction by Mark Tully. [Cambridge:] The Oleander Press Ltd., [1982]. £75 First edition. 8vo. pp. xiv, 207, [1, ads.]; photo. illusts., map endpapers; near-fine in the original cloth, d.-w., with, loosely inserted, a pamphlet by the same author titled ‘The Postscript’ (pp. 11, privately printed by the author in 1990 and signed by him to the Foreword). Yakushi M523; S & B M52; not in Neate or Perret. Henry Morshead was a member of the Everest expeditions in 1921 & 1922, and Watkins’ 1927 expedition to Spitsbergen. He disappeared in Burma in 1931 and the present work, written by his son, provides a biography of his father and attempts to unravel the mystery of his death. The Postscript that accompanies this copy was produced later and distributed by the author, and relates developments in his investigation following the book’s publication.

183. Messner, Reinhold. G1 und GII. Herausforderung Gasherbrum. Munich: BLV, [1998]. £75

39

First edition thus. 8vo. pp. 207; text in German; photo. illusts.; creasing to corners of final few leaves, else VG in original pictorial card wrappers. Signed by Messner to title. This work collects together the various accounts of Messner’s climbs on Gasherbrum I and II. In 1975, Messner and Peter Habeler made the second ascent of Gasherbrum I (also known as Hidden Peak) using alpinestyle climbing. In 1982 he climbed Gasherbrum II, and in 1984 with Hans Kammerlander made the first ever traverse of Gasherbrum I & II, itself the first traverse of two 8000ers.

184. Modern Boy Great Folder of Adventures. N.p., 1933.

£75

A small printed portfolio, approx. 160 x 230 mm., containing 12 “photogravure” plates, metal fastener at rear (slightly rusted), the wrapper partially faded, but the plates in very good condition barring a small rust spot to the margin of the first plate. This set of plates, issued weekly between April and July in 1933, features images taken from some of the notable “Adventures” of the early 20th c. They include “No. 2 - Attacking Mount Everest, the World’s Highest Mountain” (the 1933 flight over Everest), “No. 7 - Flying over the South Pole” (Byrd’s 1928-9 Antarctic Expedition), and ”No. 10 - Captain Scott’s Last Dash to the South Pole”. Other subjects are T. E. Lawrence, Court Treatt’s Cape to Cairo motor expedition, Lindbergh and other aviators.

185

185. Moravec, Fritz. Weisse Berge Schwarze Menschen. Vienna & Munich: Österreichischer Bundesverlag, 1958. £350

First edition. 8vo. pp. 224; text in German; photo. illusts; VG in the original cloth-backed printed boards, slightly faded on spine, in the original d.j., which is slightly browned on spine. A presentation copy from the author, inscribed to the half title. Yakushi M496; not in Perret. Moravec led a small-scale Austrian expedition that made the first ascent of Gasherbrum II in 1956, Moravec himself along with Sepp Larch and Hans Willenpart reaching the summit. The expedition represented an advance in the history of climbing on the great peaks: never before had an 8,000er been climbed by a team which deliberately chose to bivouac during the ascent”. The first part of the book covers the ascent of Gasherbrum Il; the second part relates Moravec’s expeditions to mountains in East Africa, including Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya.

186


192

187

189

187. [Mortimer, Greg.] Lincoln Hall. First Ascent. The Life and Climbs of Greg Mortimer. Simon & Schuster Australia, [1997]. £35

Reprint [1st pub. 1996]. 8vo. pp. xvi, 254; photo. illusts.; VG in the original pictorial card wrappers, slightly rubbed to extremities. A presentation copy, inscribed by author to the title-page. A biography of the first Australian to climb Everest, K2, Annapurna II, and Mount Vinson in the Antarctic.

188. Mumm, A. L. Five Months in the Himalaya. A Record of Mountain Travel in Garhwal and Kashmir. London: Edward Arnold, 1909. £850

40

Crown 8vo. pp. xvi, 263; addendum slip to contents; 29 plates from photographs by the author and T.G. Longstaff including 4 folding panoramas, 48 illustrations from photographs mounted to text, 2 folding maps; embrowning to endpapers, rear hinge partly cracked, else a very good, clean copy in the original cloth, gilt, t.e.g., bumped to heel of spine with contents partially affected. Neate M179; Yakushi M565; Perret 3147. Arnold Louis Mumm (18591927) travelled with Charles Bruce and Tom Longstaff to Garhwal and the ranges between Kashmir and Khagan, in a series of climbs and explorations that culminated in Longstaff’s ascent of Trisul (7120m). As Mumm writes, “A good deal of hitherto untrodden ground was traversed in both regions, and a large extent of country, of great interest to mountaineers, was visited, which has never been adequately described from their point of view, and never before come under the fire of a camera” (Preface). Trisul was at that time the highest peak ever to be climbed, a summit record not beaten until the ascent of Kamet in 1931. (The record was in fact beaten by Alexander Kellas’ ascent of Pauhunri in 1911, but at the time this peak was estimated at a height of 7065m.)

189. Næss, Arne & Roland Huntford. Drømmen om Everest. Oslo: Ernst G. Mortensen, [1987]. £75

First edition. 4to. pp. 160; numerous photo. illusts.; text in Norwegian; good in the original rexine, lacking d.-w., rubbed. Signed by Arne Næss to the flyleaf. Yakushi N07; S&B N03. Arne Næss (1937-2004), the shipping magnate and mountaineer, in 1985 led the first Norwegian expedition to Mount Everest. Many of the team and sherpas reached the summit, including for the first time Chris Bonington, who accompanied the expedition (several of Bonington’s photographs are used in the book).

190. Newby, Eric. A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush. London: Secker & Warburg, 1958. £350

First edition. 8vo. pp. 247; photo. illusts., 2 folding maps, one sketch map to text; very good in the original cloth, in d.-w., which is worn and frayed with tape repairs to verso. A presentation copy, inscribed “John Lewis with best wishes from Eric Newby 25.3.59”, with the dedicatee’s bookplate to front pastedown.

190 Neate N16; Yakushi N46. Newby’s story of his and Hugh Carless’ travels in Nuristan (North-east Afghanistan) includes an account of their failed ascent of Mir Samir. The relative inexperience of the two travellers provides many entertaining moments, nicely counterpointed by the final episode in the book - a chance meeting with the “English explorer” Wilfred Thesiger.

191. Noel, Captain J. B. L. Through Tibet to Everest. Edward Arnold & Co., 1927. £575

First edition. 8vo. pp. 302, [2], 16 (ads.); b & w photo. illusts., 4 illusts. to text; previous owners’ inscriptions and label to flyleaf, good in the original cloth, gilt, rubbed, a little darkened to spine, which is neatly restored at head. Signed by the author to flyleaf “John Noel 1922 & 1924 Everest Expeditions”. Neate N22; Yakushi (3rd ed.) N139a; Perret 3211; S & B N13. Noel, the photographer with the 1922 and 1924 Everest expeditions, here offers his own account of the first three expeditions to Everest and of his 1913 Reconnaissance of the region.

192. Pierre, Bernard. Ils ont conquis l’Himalaya. Paris: Plon, [1979]. £35

First edition. 8vo. pp. 250; illusts., sketch maps; minor age-toning to margins, else very good in the original pictorial wrappers, slightly rubbed, creased on spine. Inscribed to half title by Pierre. Perret 3454 (“Un bon ouvrage”). A history of mountaineering expeditions to the Himalaya.

193. Rowell, Galen. In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1977. £75 First edition. 4to. pp. x, 326; photo. illusts., sketch maps; near-fine in original cloth, in d.j. Signed by author to half-title. Neate R82; Yakushi R366; Perret 3809. A nicely illustrated account of the unsuccessful 1975 American K2 expedition by one of the participants.


194 194. [Rutkiewicz, Wanda.] Reinisch, Gertrude. Wanda Rutkiewicz. Karawane der Träume. Munich: Bergverlag Rother, [1998]. £35 First edition. 4to. pp. 192; text in German; photo. illusts.; VG in original cloth, d.j. Signed by author to label pasted to flyleaf. Rutkiewicz (1943-1992) aimed to become the first woman to complete the ascent of the 8000ers. From 1978 to 1992 she climbed eight of the peaks, including the first ascent of K2 by a woman (1986). She died in her attempt on Kangchenjunga.

195. Ruttledge, Hugh. Everest: The Unfinished Adventure. London: Hodder And Stoughton, [1937]. £350

First edition. Royal 8vo. pp. xvi, 295; port. frontis. of expedition members, b & w photo. plates, 2 large folding maps to rear; previous owner’s inscription to flyleaf, minor spotting to leaves adjoining maps, else nearfine in the original cloth, in bright condition, in the original d.j., which is slightly rubbed. Neate R100; Yakushi R414; Perret 3831; S & B R30; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 35. The 1936 expedition, the fifth to Everest and the second under Ruttledge’s leadership, was again a first-class party. It was plagued by an early monsoon and stricken with weather problems from the beginning.

196. Sale, Richard. Broad Peak 8047m. Hildersley: Carreg, [2007].£150

First German translation. 8vo. pp. 232; illusts.; new. Signed by Broad Peak summitter Fritz Wintersteller, Qader Saeed (the Pakistani liaison officer for the expedition), and the author. Translated from the English edition, this is an excellent account of the 1957 first ascent of Broad Peak, and Hermann Buhl’s final climb. Based on the diaries of Marcus Schmuck, one of the four team members, it is signed by fellow team member Fritz Wintersteller. This edition was published to coincide with the 50th Anniversary celebrations at Salzburg, a flyer for which is loosely inserted.

196

195

197. Sale, Richard. Mapping the Himalayas: Michael Ward and the Pundit Heritage. Hildersley: Carreg, 2009 £45

First edition. 8vo (246 x 189mm). Text vol: pp. 208; 16pp. colour photo. illusts., numerous b&w images as well as reproductions of entries from Pundit diaries and pages from Michael Ward’s diaries of his 1951 Everest reconnaissance expedition, and his 1964 and 1965 Bhutan expeditions; original limp card wrappers, new. Map case: 44 maps of all the Pundit journeys, all housed in a purpose-made slipcase. The text volume and map case are both housed in a card slipcase. This book, begun by Michael Ward (of the 1951 and 1953 Everest expeditions), was completed following Ward’s death by Richard Sale. The book has a Preface written by Michael Ward, intended to begin the work he had planned on the Pundits. The book keeps to Ward’s original plan: It begins with details of early journeys made by Europeans to the Himalayan kingdoms of Afghanistan and neighbouring Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan, before moving on to the work of the Survey of India and the Great Game, these being precursors to the work of the Pundits. The Pundits are then covered individually, with such biographical information as is known and details of their journeys. Michael Ward was interested in both the work of the Pundits and their techniques. During the 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, while he did not use Pundit techniques, he did carry out some survey work, the results of which were incorporated into maps of the region. Later, on two trips to Bhutan as a medical advisor to the king, he was given permission to trek in the remote Lunana district and used Pundit techniques to prepare the first accurate map of the area. The two chapters on Michael Ward’s time on Everest in 1951 and Bhutan in 1964 & 1965 draw extensively on his diaries for these trips, making available information for the 1951 Everest expedition not published before, and reproducing survey maps that Ward produced on these occasions.

197

41


198. Schmuck, Marcus. Broad Peak 8047 m. Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl. Verlag “Das Bergland-Buch”, Salzburg, Stuttgart, [1958]. £5,000 First edition. 8vo. pp. 360, [v, Contents]; text in German; photo. illusts. inc. some folding; a near-fine copy in the original buff cloth, in the original d.j., which is slightly frayed to extremities. Signed by the author, expedition members Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger, Eugenie “Generl” Buhl (Hermann’s widow), and the Pakistani liaison officer for the expedition, Qader Saeed, and with a loosely inserted expedition postcard dated “Basislager 12.6.57” signed by all four members of the team including Hermann Buhl (one postage stamp missing, hole-punched and now laminated). Yakushi S171a; Perret 3962. This, the official account of the first ascent of Broad Peak by Hermann Buhl, Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger and Fritz Wintersteller, has become very scarce. Schmuck relates not only the ascent of Broad Peak, but also Buhl’s death on Chogolisa. No English edition was ever published, though Diemberger has signed the book and added “Please compare with SUMMITS & SECRETS” (which contains sections on the expedition, and was for long the only source by an expedition member available in English). The expedition postcard with this copy is one of very few sent back from the expedition; written by Wintersteller from base camp three days after the successful ascent of Broad Peak, it is addressed to Dr. Seefeldner of the Committee of the Österreichische Alpenverein (ÖAV) Sektion Salzburg, and reports simply that on the 9th June the expedition successfully reached the summit of Broad Peak. Signed by Wintersteller, the card is additionally signed by Schmuck, Diemberger and Hermann Buhl.

42

199

200

199. Scott, Doug. Himalayan Climber. A Lifetime’s Quest to the World’s Greater Ranges. London: Diadem Books, [1992]. £25 First edition. 4to. pp. 192; photo. illusts.; near-fine in the original cloth, d.j. Yakushi S252a; Perret 3988; S & B S13. An autobiography, in pictures and words, of the author’s climbs, including the South West Face of Everest expeditions in 1972 and 1975 (when Scott and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to reach the summit).

200. Simpson, Joe. Dark Shadows Falling. London: Jonathan Cape, 1997. £95

First edition. 8vo. pp. 207, [1]; photo. illusts., map endpapers; fine in the original cloth, d.j. Signed by Simpson to the title, and further signed by Alan Hinkes and Matt Dickinson at p. 50. Simpson made a 1996 attempt on Pumori, during which he gained views of the southern approaches to the summit of Everest. Simpson’s book uses the death of a climber on Everest in 1992 as a basis for ethical reflections on recent developments in climbing the mountain. Simpson mentions Alan Hinkes and Matt Dickinson on p. 50, the page on which these men have signed the book; Hinkes was the first Briton to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks.

201 201. Tasker, Joe. Savage Arena. London: Methuen, [1982].

202 £95

First edition. 8vo. pp. 270; photo. illusts.; some age-toning to text, good in the original cloth, d.j. Ownership inscription of George Lowe, dated 1983, to flyleaf. Neate T05. Tasker’s memoir of climbs on the Eiger and in the Himalaya (K2, Kangchenjunga, etc.), published posthumously.

202. Terray, Lionel. Conquistadors of the Useless. From the Alps to Annapurna. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1963. £95 First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 351; photo. illusts., sketch maps; slightl foxing to edge of text block, else very good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is slightly chipped. Neate T19; Yakushi T75b; Perret 4230. Terray, one of the foremost climbers of his generation, made significant ascents in the Alps and the Himalaya, taking part in the successful ascent of Annapurna, and making the first ascent of Makalu. These episodes are covered in his autobiography.


203

204

203. Tichy, Herbert. Cho Oyu. Gnade der Götter. Vienna: Ullstein, [1955]. £150

First edition. 8vo. pp. 244; text in German; photo. illusts., map endpapers; previous owner’s name erased from flyleaf verso, else VG in the original decorated cloth, in d.j. which is chipped with loss to upper cover. Signed to the half title by Tichy. Yakushi T151a; Perret 4269. The first ascent of Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world, was made by a small-scale Austrian expedition led by Tichy in 1954: Tichy, Jöchler and Pasang Dawa Lama reached the summit on October 19 via the north-west ridge. This is a signed copy of the first appearance of Tichy’s account of the expedition.

204. Tichy, Herbert. Cho Oyu. By Favour of the Gods. London: Methuen & Co., [1957]. £295

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 196; coloured and b & w illusts., 2 sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, d.j., which is soiled to lower panel. Neate T32; Yakushi T151b; Perret 4269. This is the account of the first ascent of Cho Oyu by Tichy’s Austrian expedition in 1954.

205. Tilman, H. W. Mount Everest 1938. Cambridge at the University Press, 1948. £150

First edition. 8vo. pp. x, 160; b & w photo. illusts., 4 maps; VG in original cloth, slightly faded on spine, in original d.j., which is a little chipped to extremities and faded on spine (as usual). Neate T44; Yakushi T163a; Perret 4277; S & B T11; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 36. Tilman led this small expedition, which included Eric Shipton, Frank Smythe and N. E. Odell. Like that of 1936, it was defeated by the weather. The publication of the account was delayed by the outbreak of the Second World War.

205

206

207

208. Viesturs, Ed with David Roberts. K2. Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain. New York: Broadway Books, 2009. £45

First edition. 8vo. pp. [x], 342; photo. illusts., map endpapers; fine in original cloth, d.j. Signed by the authors to title. Viesturs - the first American to summit all fourteen 8000ers - climbed K2 in 1995. He here gives an account of the disastrous 2008 season on K2, the worst ever on the mountain.

209. Visser, Ph. C. Naar onbekend Midden-Azië tusschen Kara-korum en Hindu-kush. Rotterdam: Nijgh & Van Ditmar, 1926. £175

First edition. 8vo. pp. 255; six sketch maps, 60 photo. illusts. on 30 leaves; very good in the original cloth, gilt, remains of upper cover of dust-wrapper loosely inserted. A presentation copy from the author to Willam Beucker Andreae, inscribed on the half-title. Yakushi V99a. The author led four expeditions to the Karakorum. This, the narrative of the 2nd, explored the Batura, Hispar and Shimshal glaciers. His wife Jenny Visser-Hooft accompanied him on all four expeditions, and her own account of this expedition appeared as Among the Kara-Korum Glaciers (London, 1926).

206. Ullman, J. R. Americans on Everest. The official account of the ascent led by Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. Philadelphia and New York: J.B. Lippincott Company, 1964. £25

207

First US edition. 8vo. pp. xxiii, 429; coloured and b & w photo. illusts., one double-page sketch map; very good in the original cloth, d.-w., which is somewhat rubbed. Neate U01; Yakushi U25a; Perret 4365; S & B U07; Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 41. The spectacular first American ascent of Everest, made in 1963.

207. Viesturs, Ed with David Roberts. No Shortcuts to the Top. Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks. New York: Broadway Books, [2006]. £45

First edition. 8vo. pp. [x], 358; photo. illusts., map endpapers; fine in original cloth-backed boards, d.j. Signed by Viesturs to a bookplate on halftitle recto, and by Roberts to title. Viesturs is to date the only American to have climbed all fourteen 8000ers, Everest several times.

208

209

43


210. Waugh, Lieutenant-Colonel A.S. & B. S. Hodgson. ‘Papers relating to the Himalaya and Mount Everest.’ An article in the complete issue of Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society of London, no. IX, April & May, 1857. London: Edward Stanford, 1857. £750

First edition. 8vo. pp. 329-364 [article at pp. 345-351]; some staining, good in the original printed wrappers. Signed to the front wrapper by Ed Hillary. Ownership inscription of Michael Ward to first leaf of text (doctor on the 1953 Everest Expedition). Not in the usual bibliographies. The naming of Mount Everest, signed by the first man to climb the mountain. Waugh’s notice, just 2pp. long and dated Dehra, March 1st, 1856, marks the beginning of the Everest story in Britain. In this brief article, Waugh imparts to the members of the RGS news that the Survey of India’s peak XV “is higher than any other hitherto measured in India, and most probably it is the highest in the whole world.” He continues: “I was taught by my respected chief and predecessor, Colonel Geo. Everest, to assign to every geographical object its true local or native appellation. I have always scrupulously adhered to this rule, as I have in fact to all other principles laid down by that eminent graduist. But here is a mountain … without any local name that we can discover … I have determined to name this noble peak of the Himalayas ‘Mont Everest.’” There follows a second notice in which B.H. Hodgson suggests that Everest does have a local name - Devadhunga - which should be adopted. In the discussion following the reading of these two papers at the RGS, the president Sir Roderick Murchison hopes that, whatever its name in India, in England at least peak XV “would always be known by the name of Everest.” The final say goes to Colonel Everest himself, who objects to the application of his name to peak XV because the word Everest “was not pronounceable by a native of India.”

211. Whillans, Don and Alick Ormerod. Don Whillans Portrait of a Mountaineer. London: Heinemann, [1971].

£575

First edition. 8vo. pp. ix, 266; b & w photo. illusts.; old price to flyleaf in ink, else very good in the original cloth, d.j. (which is slightly chipped). Signed to the title by Chris Bonington, and loosely containing: a Cordillera Blanca Expedition 1968 postcard signed by Whillans, Dave Bathgate, Brian W. Robertson and Ian MacEacheran; a typed notice for a lecture to be given by Whillans in Winchester on Friday, 3rd November, 1972 about the German Expedition to Everest; and a newspaper clipping from The Times for 6.iii.1972 by Ronald Faux on Whillans’ 1972 Everest attempt. Neate W52. Whillans contributed to technical advances in climbing with Joe Brown and Chris Bonington in the 1950s and 1960s. His achievements over an expanding field of experience - the Pennines, the Alps, the Andes, and the Himalayas coupled with his personality brought him an almost mythic status. His autobiography - which couples factual paragraphs by Ormerod interspersed with Whillans’ recollections - concludes with his ascent of the south face of Annapurna, with Dougal Haston, in 1970. The loosely inserted Cordillera Blanca expedition postcard relates to his climbs in the Andes, discussed in the book at pp. 250ff.

44

212 212. Wielicki, Krzysztof. Crown of Himalaya 14 x 8000. Translated by Jerzy Kopacz. Krakow: Wydawnictwo, 1997. £125 First English edition. Square 8vo. pp. 143; endpaper maps, coloured photo. illusts.; fine in original pictorial boards. Signed by Wielicki to the title. Wielicki was the fifth person to climb all 8000ers, including the first winter ascent of Everest during the Polish expedition of 1979-80.

213. [Wilson, Maurice.] Dennis Roberts. I’ll Climb Mount Everest Alone. The Story of Maurice Wilson. London: Robert Hale Limited, [1957]. £175

First edition. 8vo. pp. 158; photo. illusts., 3 sketch maps; VG in original cloth, d.j., which is slightly frayed to extremities, label removed from upper outer corner of d.j. Neate R46; Yakushi R251; S & B R13; not in Perret. The extraordinary story of the solo adventurer Maurice Wilson, who in 1934 resolved to climb Everest alone. Roberts bases his account on the diaries recovered by Eric Shipton, who discovered Wilson’s body on the 1935 reconnaissance.

213

214

214. Yoda, Takayoshi. Ascent of Manaslu in Photographs 1952-6. Tokyo: Mainichi Newspapers, 1956. £475

First edition. 4to. pp. 5 (English text), 10 (Japanese text), 52 leaves of 186 photo. illusts., [5, title and prelims. in Japanese]; near-fine in the original cloth, contained in the original slipcase which is worn to extremities. Neate Y08; Yakushi jM03. Yoda was the photographer on the 1956 Japanese Alpine Club expedition to Manaslu, which made the first ascent.


other ranges and general

215. Agostini, Alberto M. de. Mis Viajes a la Tierra del Fuego. Milán: Prof. Giovanni de Agostini, 1929.

£850

First edition in Spanish. 4to. pp. 287; 11 coloured plates, 22 blue-tinted plates, one large folding map in pocket at rear; adhesion damage to one plate, pencil annotations to map, which also has a tear to one fold, else very good in the original blue cloth, lettered in blue, slightly toned on spine. With the ownership inscriptions of A. H. Hunter and H. W. Tilman. Not in the usual bibliographies. Agostini was an Italian-born Salesian priest who, following his ordination in 1910, was sent to Argentina. Alongside his mission work he undertook many exploratory expeditions into the Andean ranges of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. An early account of his journeys appeared in Italy as I miei viaggi nella Terra del Fuoco (1928), and the present work seems to be a Spanish language version of the same. The book’s previous owners both have connections with the region in which Agostini worked: Hunter may be the same person on record as having donated stone implements from Tierra del Fuego to the British Museum in the 1930s; and Tilman, the well-known climber and sailor recorded his own travels in the region in his Mischief in Patagonia (1957).

216. [Alpine Club.] The Alpine Club Centenary Dinner 1857-1957. November 6th, 1957, Dorchester Hotel, London, W.1. N.p., n.d. [1957].  £35

4to. pp. 8; very good in original stiff pictorial card wrappers with, loosely inserted, the table plan for the dinner. A menu printed for the dinner, at which were present Lord Hunt, and many luminaries of the climbing world - Tenzing, Noyce, Desio, Franco, Francis Farquhar, James Wordie, Houston, Longstaff, Winthrop Young, Gavin de Beer, Howard-Bury, Odell, Rebuffat, Kenneth Mason, and many more.

217. Freshfield, Douglas W. Below the Snow Line. London: Constable and Company Limited, 1923. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. viii, 270; 9 single-page maps; very good in the original green cloth, gilt, bumped to extremities. Neate F63; Perret 1762. Freshfield’s accounts of climbs in Corsica, the Maritime Alps, Japan and The Mountains of the Moon.

218. Liebig Cards. ‘Alpinisme.’ Compagnie Liebig [Antwerp], n.d. [1936]. £25

216

A full set of 6 Liebig reward cards, each with a chromolithographed scene to recto, advert. to verso, explanatory text in Dutch; slight foxing to verso, else VG. Scenes of climbers, illustrating various alpine techniques.

45

217

219. Longman, William. Suggestions for the Exploration of Iceland. An Address delivered to the Members of the Alpine Club On April 4, 1861. London: Longman, Green, Longman, and Roberts, 1861. £350 Second edition, with a Postscript. 8vo. pp. 44; folding map frontispiece; very good in the original printed wrappers, recently respined. Not in Neate. Longman, Vice-President of the Alpine Club, delivered the present lecture to foster interest among club members in new climbing areas “beyond the regions of our well-loved Alps”. He rates alpinists as the most suitable potential explorers of south-east Iceland by dint of their experience with Alpine terrain, and gives details of the as yet unatttempted peaks to be found there. A postscript added for this edition advises of an exploration route suggested by “Mr. Kral Franz Siemsen, an Iceland merchant”, that takes in ascents of Hekla, Orœfa and Kötlugiá.

218

219

220. Paris, T. Clifton. Letters from the Pyrenees during Three Months’ Pedestrian Wanderings amidst the Wildest Scenes of The French and Spanish Mountains in the Summer of 1842. London: John Murray, 1843. £375 First edition. 8vo. pp. xv, 314; wood-eng. frontis., illusts. to text; frontis. heavily embrowned, Eton prize inscription and previous owner’s bookplate at front, else very good in contemporary calf, gilt-decorated spine, a handsome copy. Not in Perret. The author, of Trinity College, Cambridge, had difficulty prior to his travels in finding information about the region, which he discovered were “rarely visited by the English” (preface). He travelled via Bordeaux to Spain, visiting Pau, and making several excursions into the mountains, including a visit to “Maladetta, the Mont Blanc of the Pyrenees”. An important early account.

220


221

222 224

225

223. Stead, Richard; John F. Campbell & Ernest Fraser, illustrators. Daring Deeds of Great Mountaineers. True Stories of Adventure, Pluck and Resource in Many Parts of the World [with original artwork and correspondence]. London: Seeley Service, 1921. £950

First edition thus. 8vo. pp. 259; col. frontis. and 8 plates; very good in the original decorative cloth, rubbed and slightly faded on spine; together with: 1. the original artwork for the illustrations comprising the original watercolour of the frontispiece by Campbell (approx. 23 x 32cm.), 6 pen and wash illustrations by Campbell (each approx. 24 x 32cm.), 2 pen and wash illustrations by Fraser (approx. 18 x 22 cm.), and the artwork for the front cover design; 2. printed proofs for each illustration; 3. 11 letters or notes from Stead to the publisher in 1906-7 relating to the original appearance of his book (Adventures on High Mountains, 1907); 4. Copy letter from the publisher to the printers Billing & Sons with instructions for the reprinting of part of Stead’s original work, and three related items. Occasional foxing to some letters or artwork. Neate S159. Stead’s Adventures on High Mountains appeared in 1907 (the book was dated 1908), and in 1920 Seeley Service decided to reprint the greater part of it under a new title, Daring Deeds of Great Mountaineers (the reprint omitted the final six chapters of the original work). The present copy of the latter book is sold with the original artwork for the illustrations that appeared in this volume, together with proofs and related material. The letters from Stead relate to the original appearance of the book, and discuss content, permissions (notably with regard to Lady Stanley), and recommendations for inclusion. The illustrations include those relating to Tyndall’s ascent of the Weisshorn, and Whymper’s Matterhorn accident of 1865.

46

221. Rowell, Galen & John McPhee. Alaska. Images of the Country. San Francisco: Sierra Club, [1981]. £250

Deluxe edition, one of 500 copies signed by McPhee and Rowell. 4to. pp. xiv, 146; photo. illusts., sketch map; obituary of Rowell pasted in at front, near-fine in original cloth-backed cloth boards in slipcase. Neate R80; Perret 3811. A beautifully produced record of the people and places of Alaska, including views of the Alaska range with Mt. McKinley.

222. Russell, Scott. Mountain Prospect. London: Chatto & Windus, 1946. £150

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvi, 248; photo. illusts., 7 sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, which is faded on spine, in d.-w., which is a little frayed to extrems. and internally browned. Signed by the author to the title-page, and with the ownership inscription of George Lowe (“W. G. Lowe 1947”) to flyleaf, and obituary notice of Russell loosely inserted. Neate R98; Yakushi R207. Scott Russell spent his early years in New Zealand, and these memoirs begin with details of his climbs in the Southern Alps of New Zealand. Later chapters cover his time on Shipton’s expedition to the Karakoram in 1939-40. Russell later married the daughter of George Finch, of Everest fame.

224. Weld, Charles Richard. The Pyrenees West and East. London: Longman, Brown, Green, Longmans, & Roberts, 1859. £275

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvi. 410, [6, pubs. list.]; frontis. & 7 tinted wood-eng. plates; prize inscription to flyleaf, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, a.e.g., minor discolouration to foot of upper boards. Perret 4540 (“Rare”). Weld (1813-1869) was Assistant Secretary and

Librarian to the Royal Society, and a brother-in-law of Alfred Tennyson - the present work is dedicated to Mrs Alfred Tennyson. Weld visited the Pyrenees as a summer tourist, and his account includes descriptions of his mountain travels by mule.

225. Zurbriggen, Mattias. From the Alps to the Andes being the Autobiography of a Mountain Guide. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1899.  £475 First edition. 8vo. pp. xvi, 269, [2, ads.]; port. frontis., illusts.; good in the original cloth, gilt, t.e.g., sometime respined with original spine laid down, new endpapers. Wäber II.89; Neate Z03; Perret 4667 (“Ouvrage peu courant et très recherché”); Yakushi Z12a. Zurbriggen (1856-1917) accompanied some of the most important late nineteenth century expeditions to the great ranges of the world. In 1892 he joined Martin Conway’s Karakoram expedition. Later he took part in Edward FitzGerald’s expeditions to New Zealand and Aconcagua in the Andes - of which Zurbriggen made the first ascent alone. He also joined the Workmans, assisting Fanny in her ascent of Koser Gunge, at the time the highest climb by a woman. His autobiography - the first work to be published by an Alpine guide - has become uncommon.


BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES Abbey Travel – J. Abbey Travel in Aquatint and Lithography 1770-1860 (2 vols., London: Curwen Press, 1956) Altick – Richard D. Altick The Shows of London (Harvard University Press, 1978) Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering – James R. Cox. Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering and Mountain Travel: from the Francis P. Farquhar Collection of Mountaineering Literature. An Annotated Bibliography. Annotations and introductory essay by Nicholas B. Clinch, James R. Cox, and Muir Dawson (Los Angeles: University of California Library, 1980) Colas - Rene Colas Bibliographie générale du Costume et de la Mode (Paris: Colas, 1933) D.S.B. - Dictionary of Scientific Biography, ed. Charles C. Gillispie (NY: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1970-80) Meckly – Eugene P. Meckly ‘A Bibliography of Privately Printed Mountaineering Books A Revision’ (Alpine Journal, vol. 96, 340, 1991, pp. 196-208) Meckly – Eugene P. Meckly Mont Blanc The Early Years A Bibliography of Printed Books from 1744 to 1860 (Asheville, North Carolina: Daniels Graphics, 1995) Moss et al. - Alan Moss, Peter Haigh & Nigel Baker Alpine and European Climbing Guidebooks 1863- 2013 A Collector’s Guide (Leeds: Green Woods, 2014) Nava – Monte Bianco 1786/1986 descrizione, tentativi, ascensioni dal 1669 al 1900 dai libri di Piero Nava (Bergamo: the author, 1986) Neate – Jill Neate Mountaineering Literature. A Bibliography of Material Published in English (Milnthorpe: Cicerone Press; Seattle: Mountainbooks, 1986) NLS – Mountaineering. Catalogue of the Graham Brown and Lloyd Collections in the National Library of Scotland (Edinburgh: NLS, 1994) Norman – The Haskell F. Norman Library of Science and Medicine (2 vols., San Francisco: Jeremy Norman & Co., 1991) Perret - Jacques Perret. Guides des Livres sur la Montagne et l’Alpinisme (2 vols, Grenoble: Editions de Belledome, 1997) Pine-Coffin- R. S. Pine-Coffin Bibliography of British and American Travel in Italy to 1860 (Florence: L. S. Olschki, 1974) S & B - Audrey Salkeld & John Boyle. Climbing Mount Everest. The Bibliography. The literature and history of climbing the world’s highest mountain (Clevedon, Avon: Sixways Publishing, 1993) Smith – Harold F. Smith American Travellers Abroad. A Bibliography of Accounts Published before 1900 (South Illinois University, 1969) Theakstone - John Theakstone Victorian and Edwardian Women Travellers. A Bibliography of Books published in English (Mansfield Centre, CT: Martino, 2006) Wäber – A.Wäber Bibliographie der Schweizerischen Landeskunde (Bern: K. J. Wyss, 1892-1896; reprinted by Maurizio Martino, Staten Island, NY, c. 1995) Wellcome – A Catalogue of Printed Books in the Wellcome Historical Medical Library (5 vols., London: The Wellcome Trust, 2006) Yakushi - Yoshio Yakushi Catalogue of Himalayan Literature (2nd ed., Tokyo: Hakusuisha Publishing, 1984; 3rd ed., 1994)


Meridian Rare Books | PO Box 51650 | SE8 4XW | United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)208 6942168 | Mobile: +44 (0) 7912 409 821 info@meridianrarebooks.co.uk | www.meridianrarebooks.co.uk

Profile for Meridian Rare Books

From the Alps to the Himalayas. A selection from stock.  

A catalogue of books relating to climbing in the Alps and the Himalayas.

From the Alps to the Himalayas. A selection from stock.  

A catalogue of books relating to climbing in the Alps and the Himalayas.

Advertisement