Copy Director Kylie Matthews Creative Director Philippa Moffitt Art Director Katrina Mastrofilippo
Designer Frida Lindstrom Strategy and Insights Director Jane Schofield Commercial Insights Manager TuAnh Trinh Qantas Partnerships Manager Molly Maguire Qantas Partnerships Manager Emily Ryan Qantas Partnerships Campaign Executive Kellie Hammond Content and Events
Campaign Manager Jessica Manson
For Rare Creative inquiries, contact: rarecreative@mediumrarecontent.com
Indulge in timeless elegance and breathtaking city views.
From the Editor
The term “adventure” can mean so many things. For some, it might be ordering a curry at Canberra’s buzzy new South-East Asian eatery AK’s Diner (Coming In Hot, page 36). For others, it’s a solo hike through the Catalonia region of Spain that gets the blood pumping (Step By Step, page 80). Our digital editor, Bridget de Maine, found it meant drifting off to sleep under the stars on safari in South Africa, the growls of lions and yelps of hyenas echoing in the near distance (After Dark, page 70). And Kirsten Galliott, head of content, defines it as slicing through glassy water aboard a Zodiac, surrounded by towering Antarctic icebergs (see our Trip Around the World series in partnership with Silversea, page 61).
Me? I lean towards soft adventure. A guided exploration through South Australia’s Naracoorte Caves or a family-friendly bike tour around Rottnest Island (both of which I’ve bookmarked after reading Thrilling Me Softly, page 102) is more my pace.
Whatever getting out of your comfort zone looks like, it’s something many of us are seeking, whether that’s in search of a higher purpose, a circuit breaker, a personal challenge or simply something that makes us feel alive. The world is unpredictable but that doesn’t mean we should retreat from it. Comfort is lovely and welcome and essential. But how much sweeter does that safe cocoon we create for ourselves and our loved ones seem when we emerge, excited and a little bit vulnerable, to open ourselves up to different ideas and experiences?
You’ve taken the first step just by opening this magazine. It’s time for a fresh adventure.
Genevra Leek Editor-in-Chief
qftravelinsider
Our writers are not armchair travellers. Rest assured any assistance we accept from the travel industry in the course of preparing our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.
From the CEO
This month marks 90 years of Qantas flying internationally. In April 1935, a four-engine DH86 took off from Brisbane bound for Singapore and heralded a new era in Australian aviation. It was our first regular international passenger service, helping to pioneer a whole new way to travel.
The flight took off from a grass strip in Archerfield, carrying two passengers along with some mail, and took three and a half days to get to its destination. It stopped 16 times along the way and cost £117 return. It marked the realisation of a major milestone for our founders, who started the airline with the aim of connecting Australia to the rest of the world.
Over the past 90 years, our international network has grown significantly. We now fly eight million passengers to 34 international destinations every year. That includes around 50 flights a week to Singapore from five Australian cities with the addition of Darwin flights last month. We also recently introduced seasonal flights to Sapporo in Japan and flights to the Pacific Island nation of Palau.
Since that first international flight, Qantas has continued to break new ground in long-haul travel, from being the first airline to operate a trans-Pacific jet service in the 1950s to introducing Business Class in the 1970s. Next year, we’ll get one step closer in our mission to overcome the next frontier in aviation, with the first of our Project Sunrise aircraft set to arrive. Our specially designed Airbus A350-1000 Ultra Long Range aircraft will enable the first ever non-stop regular passenger flights from the East Coast of Australia to London and New York.
In preparation, our teams are working closely with scientists from The University of Sydney’s Charles Perkins Centre to redesign the onboard experience, minimise the effect of jetlag and improve passenger wellbeing. From the meals onboard and lighting design to an award-winning wellbeing zone, Project Sunrise will redefine the ultra-long-haul travel experience, making it easier than ever for Australians to travel to some of the globe’s great cities.
Every day we connect Australians to the world and we look forward to continuing to do that for the next 90 years.
Thank you for choosing to fly Qantas. I hope you have a great flight – you’re in safe hands.
Vanessa Hudson CEO, Qantas Group
Meet the Qantas team
Fiona Daw
CUSTOMER SERVICE AGENT AT SYDNEY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
Qantas has always been a big part of my life I was born on a Friday and Dad, a civil engineer, started work at the airline on the Monday so I was a true Qantas baby. The whole idea of working for Qantas was always something I loved. I started in 1985 doing an apprenticeship as a chef. I applied for a job in reservations in North Sydney and began there in 1989 then moved to Sydney Airport in 1994.
I met my husband here – he’s a customer journey officer. It’s a funny story. I worked in delay handling and I had to ring another area. I used to talk to the same person and I thought, “Oh, he sounds nice”, and apparently he thought the same about me. Eventually, he came over to the airport and we ended up going out. We got married and, this year, we celebrated 19 years together. That’s very much a Qantas story!
My role now is what they call a departure aide. We get the flight organised, set up and depart the flight, wave goodbye and move on to the next one. I enjoy what I do and I have a can-do attitude. Rather than, “I’m not sure that’s going to happen,” it’s, “We can do this. Let’s just work around it.” I enjoy the people and the fact that no day is ever the same. It’s very fast-paced. Just when you think, “It’s going to be a quiet day”, no, it’s not – that isn’t going to happen.
Qantas would like to acknowledge the Traditional Custodians of the local lands and waterways on which we
work and fly. We pay our respects to Elders past and present.
I just got back from… Honolulu
Qantas Frequent Flyers, cabin crew and a travel expert share their tips for the ultimate Hawaiian holiday, from road trips to island hopping.
Hire a Mustang and head to “Jurassic Park”
“My parents gifted my twin sister and me a trip to Honolulu for our 30th birthday and our partners came along, too. My brother-inlaw was obsessed with renting a Mustang convertible – it was a cool way to travel, especially the drive to Kualoa Ranch on O‘ahu’s east coast. Once home to Hawaiian royalty, the ranch [above] is now a nature reserve and cattle station
– it’s also been a filming location for movies such as Jurassic Park Our favourite night out was Pā‘ina Waikīkī Lū‘au at the Marriott, where we tried Hawaiian dishes like lomi lomi salmon and kalua pork. We even learned how to string a lei.”
Jessica Caiger
Bronze Frequent Flyer
Flew Sydney to Honolulu
Taste the good life on O‘ahu’s Windward Coast
“I did a Harley-Davidson road trip for my birthday, up to the north of O‘ahu via the east coast and returning through the middle of the island, with my partner riding pillion. We wanted to be surrounded by beaches and prehistoric mountains and stop for swims and scenic lookouts, like Kāne‘ohe Bay [below]. At Sunset Beach, we shared pineapple and macadamia cheesecake from Ted’s Bakery, which was like a taste of Hawai‘i. After reaching the surf town of Hale‘iwa, we sat on the deck at Hale‘iwa Joe’s enjoying a golden ale and a Margarita and watching sailboats go by.”
Julian Lawson
Bronze Frequent Flyer
Flew Sydney to Honolulu
Go island hopping for new perspectives
“While a Waikīkī family holiday is a classic, O‘ahu’s neighbouring islands are well worth dragging yourself off the li-lo for. My favourite? Kaua‘i, known as the Garden Island because it’s just about the greenest place you’ve ever seen. After the hour-long flight from Honolulu, hire a car and head straight up to Hanalei Bay on the north shore. At Pu‘u Poa Beach at one end of the bay, majestic trees cast a leafy canopy right out over the water. Sit down with a bowl from nearby Nourish Hanalei and you’ll vow to never leave.”
Mark Brandon Qantas magazine travel expert
Hawaiian adventure with Qantas
Flights
Fly direct to Honolulu from Sydney and Melbourne.*
Eat, surf and wander to experience the best of Waikīkī
“Waikīkī is always buzzing –a perfect day starts with an açaí bowl from The Sunrise Shack followed by a surf with a rented board at Waikīkī Beach [right]. For lunch, head to the Five Star Poke food truck, it’s only a 10-minute walk from the beach. Watch the sun set over the pink Royal Hawaiian Hotel from Búho Cocina y Cantina’s rooftop then stay for perfectly plated Mexican fare. The pork tacos with salsa verde are non-negotiable.”
Amy Sanders
Hotels
Choose from more than 360 hotels in Hawai‘i.
Car hire
Explore Hawai‘i with Qantas car hire.
Discover more at qantas.com or on the Qantas App.
Secure Your Opportunity
Nestled in Queenstown’s elemental splendour, the exclusive community of Lake Tewa is taking shape beneath the Remarkables mountain range, at Jack’s Point. An idyllic enclave of exquisite Alpine Residences cluster around parklike gardens. Set just back from the placid shores of Lake Tewa, double gables take in spectacular views – this is luxurious alpine living at its best. At the water’s edge, eight figurehead Lake Houses offer secluded sanctuaries with private water access. Designed by internationally awarded architects this waterside concept embodies a destination unto itself with premium retail, and world class hospitality nearby. All next to New Zealand’s premier golf course, best vineyards and ski fields.
THE LIST
W15 Hanthana Estate, Kandy, Sri Lanka
W15 Hanthana Estate, Kandy, Sri Lanka
This retreat at a hillside tea plantation is a serene escape from the hustle and bustle.
Story by Kirsten Galliott
The drive from Colombo to Kandy is a chaotic mash of tuktuks, cars and motorbikes that take over every inch of asphalt. It’s a reminder that while Sri Lanka may be slightly smaller than Tasmania, it’s home to a staggering 23.1 million people. It’s part of what makes the country so exhilarating, of course, but it can also send your senses into overdrive.
Thankfully, this is tea country, where stillness is the game. The ascent takes in rows of lush emerald-green terraces that slow the breathing and calm the eyes. And behind a wrought-iron gate that swings open
in welcome? The nine-bedroom sanctuary that is W15 Hanthana (hanthana.w15.lk).
A former tea planter’s bungalow that fell into disrepair, the property has been meticulously renovated to recall the 19th-century heyday of British colonialism. There’s the wide verandah with views across to the Hanthana mountain range, an antique-filled piano room, a shaded swimming pool and croquet on the lawn, natch. A swing in the corner of the garden is just the spot for a G&T against the backdrop of chanting monks.
While you will want to venture 15 minutes down the hill to experience the charms of Kandy, a UNESCO World Heritage site famed for its artificial lake and Temple of the Tooth, there are equally enticing diversions onsite, from cooking classes and birdwatching walks to a wilderness “safari” in an open-top Land Rover (circa 1978).
On a leisurely drive through the plantation, we spy cannonball trees laden with fruit the size of melons and a crested serpent eagle that hovers above us, scanning the ground for snakes. Then there are the tea plants – rows and rows of them in myriad shades of green, punctuated only by local women with baskets tethered to their backs. “In Sri Lanka we have a high standard,” says Bhanuka Ranasinghe, the retreat’s head naturalist. “We always do the picking by hand.”
The food here is of an equally high standard and includes a decadent high tea served by your personal butler. Sit on the wraparound verandah – at tables fashioned from antique Singer sewing machines – and really embrace Sri Lanka by ordering the traditional breakfast of curries and sambal, rice and hoppers. That’ll wake the senses up again.
5 things to know
What to watch, read, wear and try this month.
Compiled
by
Natalie Reilly
Movie
Paul Rudd ( Ant-Man) and Jenna Ortega (Wednesday) star in Death of a Unicorn as a father and daughter who appear to accidentally run over one of the magical horned beasts on their way to see the dad’s boss, played by Richard E. Grant (Saltburn),
at a work retreat. Convinced it’s dead, they bring the unicorn with them but are alarmed to hear a rumbling from the car. With Will Poulter (Guardians of the Galaxy), this part comedy, part parable and part tribute to Jurassic Park gallops into cinemas 10 April.
Streaming
When hedge fund manager Andrew Cooper (Jon Hamm) is sacked from his job, the last
thing he wants to do is let anyone know – including ex-wife Mel (Amanda Peet) and his friends and neighbours. So begins Your Friends and Neighbours, a ninepart drama about one man’s quest to keep his lifestyle afloat and the secrets he uncovers along the way. Co-starring Hoon Lee and Olivia Munn. On Apple TV+ from 11 April.
Book
Profiling the homes of creatives, this sumptuous coffee-table book, Art in Residence (left), was shot by award-winning architectural photographer and author Nicole England. The images stretch from an artist’s studio in New York and Brutalist apartment in London to a Victorian seaside escape. In bookstores 10 April.
Beauty
Bath salts have come a long way from the jar of purple crystals you’d once find at the local chemist. Inspired by the booming interest in therapeutic bath houses and hot springs, new versions include This Works Deep Sleep Bath Soak ($56, from Mecca, mecca.com), Flewd’s offering that’s designed to reduce stress (from $10.95, flewdstresscare.com) and Australian brand IKKARI’s restorative magnesium soak ($49, ikkari.com.au).
Style
Blame it on the return-to-work push or Saint Laurent Men’s elegant collection recently shown in Paris but ties are making a comeback and refreshing the corporate uniform. But the silk is by no means limited to the office – or men, as Nicole Kidman proved at the Critics Choice Awards in February. Not to be outdone, Willem Dafoe wore a jet-black one to the Oscars.
Celeste Barber
The actor, comedian and brain behind Booie Beauty shares what she’s bingeing, listening to and following of late. As told to Natalie Reilly
My favourite movie… I have a few. Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet is one and Bridesmaids is up there. But what I haven’t been able to get out of my head is Good Luck to You, Leo Grande, with Emma Thompson playing a woman who is lonely and insecure. She spends the entire movie in a hotel room with a guy called Leo Grande. It’s a two-hander and so dynamic and wonderful. An Australian woman, Sophie Hyde, directed it and, oh my god, Emma is brilliant. Give her all the awards, always, for everything.
The show I’m bingeing… Amandaland. It’s a spin-off of British sitcom Motherland, about juggling kids and work. Sharon Horgan co-created it and I’m obsessed with anything she does, like Bad Sisters, which
I just finished bingeing and is as funny. The women in these shows are all at the forefront, playing hilarious, flawed, unhinged, chaotic, real characters. That’s my favourite thing.
The podcast I listen to… SmartLess. Listening to those three boys – actors Sean Hayes, Jason Bateman and Will Arnett – reminds me of being at drama school at uni and the way we would banter backstage during a show. It’s nostalgic for me. And they make me laugh a lot.
The Instagram account I follow…
The Betoota Advocate. It’s a satirical newspaper and so on the money and funny.
Sometimes it doesn’t even feel like satire. One, because the world is on fire and, two, because they are that fast and really good at what they do.
Two events worth travelling for
The Art of Movement –Van Cleef & Arpels, living instants, eternal forms, Sydney Story by Bek Day
From the delicate diamonds on an elegant 1942 fern clip to the intricate spiral at the centre of a 1941 ribbon double clip created in white-gold and platinum with sapphires and diamonds, treasures from the dazzling archive of Paris-based jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels will adorn a corner of the CBD this
Tasting Australia, South Australia
Showing off what her state can do in the kitchen and the vineyard is a mission close to the heart of Tasting Australia festival director Karena Armstrong. “My own restaurant is regional,” the chef says of The Salopian Inn
at McLaren Vale, “and we don’t always get the benefit of city exposure. The festival is an opportunity to sample fare from all over South Australia.”
Of the more than 150 free and ticketed events scheduled during the 10-day celebration (2 to 11 May; tastingaustralia.com.au), Armstrong says the focus is on connecting over good food without any pomp and circumstance. “You can play lawn bowls with some of the state’s coolest winemakers while Justin James of Restaurant Botanic cooks you lunch. We also have Aperitivo Hour, which I’m so excited about.” This series is being held at the Town Square festival hub in the Adelaide CBD and “you get two snacks and two drinks from some of the best in the country”.
The line-up of talent is as brilliant as it is diverse and includes Chiara Pavan from Michelin-starred Venissa Ristorante in Venice, Lennox Hastie from Sydney favourite Firedoor and homegrown hero Sharon Romeo from Fino Seppeltsfield.
The festival’s 18th iteration also features two experiences that are as much about the journey as they are the destination – punters can fly to the Flinders Ranges for an overnight dining adventure or meander down the Murray River on a houseboat, enjoying a lunch of local produce on the top deck.
The Japanese carmaker’s large, ready-for-anything SUV has finally arrived in Australia, bringing with it a fresh look in luxury off-roading. Story by
Noelle Faulkner
Is this model new? To Australia, yes. Capable of producing 260kW/650Nm from a 3.5L twin-turbo V6, the Lexus GX 550 has existed since 2002. But this is its big debut Down Under. That’s surprising. It is, right? Australia loves large, off-road SUVs and given that this one is underpinned by the same platform as the hugely popular Toyota LandCruiser Prado, you’d think it would be
a no-brainer. Well, it’s here now and can be configured for up to seven occupants. It certainly looks great . That’s down to the fine balance of muscular and utilitarian styling, with a dash of the futuristic. If you look closely at the details, such as the frameless grille, the moon roof and the flat roof rails, you might notice it’s been softened so as not to appear too rugged. This is what helps keep that sense of Lexus refinement. What are some of the creature comforts? There are three grades to choose from so the options can vary. But on the table are 20-inch-alloys, heated front and second-row seats, wireless Apple CarPlay and wired Android Auto, 12.3-inch digital instrument cluster and colour head-up display, six USB-C ports, rear 220V socket and a huge suite of the
latest safety technology innovations from Lexus. If you decide on the high-end Sports Luxury grade, you’ll also get massage seats, a cool box, card key, a superb 21-speaker Mark Levinson audio system and more. So there’s a lot of kit. Exactly what you need to take this adventure-luxe steed from tarmac to dirt and back again. Is there anything else? In addition to the five-year, unlimited-kilometre warranty, Lexus is one of only a few marques that also has a concierge-like membership service, called Lexus Encore. This includes 24/7 roadside assistance and access to offers from partners, including hotels, cinemas and events. The GX 550 comes with a threeyear Encore subscription. How much? From $116,000, plus on-road costs. lexus.com.au
Designs inspired by the vivid beauty of the Kimberley. Discover the latest collection in-store and online at linneys.com.au
Pictured: ‘Crimson Plains’ pink tourmaline and diamond ring, set in 18ct white gold | SKU: 261703 $20,600.
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Ph (08) 9382 4077
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye
The latest collaboration between the watchmaker and the sportscar delivers a limited-edition timepiece that wears its heritage well.
Story by Luke Benedictus
The Porsche 911 made its competitive debut in the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. Despite being modelled on a road car not designed for professional racing, the 911 handled the race’s snowy conditions well enough to finish second in its class and fifth overall. Embedded in the car’s dashboard were specialised timekeeping instruments designed by Heuer, the predecessor of the brand now known as TAG Heuer.
Sixty years on, those dashboard clocks provide the inspiration for the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye watch. But they also highlight why TAG Heuer’s partnership with Porsche is a dream alignment. The two brands have enjoyed a long working relationship that now evolves on the wrist.
In keeping with its motoring heritage, the watch is built with technical performance front of mind. It’s powered by the in-house TH20-08 chronosprint movement that delivers a solid 80-hour power reserve. Uniquely, the calibre mimics the famous acceleration of the Porsche 911; during the first 15 seconds of each minute, the central seconds hand races forward at a faster pace, before slowing to complete the full revolution in the standard 60 seconds.
The 42-millimetre stainless-steel case houses a black dial with visual depth provided by the silver-framed subdials, while red accents amplify the sporty feel. A domed “glassbox” sapphire crystal encloses both the front and back of the watch, giving a nod to the look of the 1960s Heuer Carreras and exposing the movement on the flip side. In a final reference to the German carmaker, that view includes a rotor shaped like a Porsche steering wheel. The steel chronograph is available in an edition of just 911 pieces worldwide so those interested will need to get into pole position.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye automatic 42-millimetre steel watch / $15,250 / tagheuer.com
Looking for the capital’s newest South-East Asian hawker-style eatery? Keep an eye out for the queue. Story by Alexandra Carlton
At the end of the first week of trading at his new lunch-only restaurant, AK’s Diner (@aksdiner), underneath the Ovolo Nishi Hotel in the NewActon Precinct, chef Anand “AK” Ramakrishna thought he’d messed up his maths. Going over the paperwork, he was shocked to discover that he’d sold a whopping 85 kilograms of rice. “I thought there must be something wrong with our scales,” he says.
Nothing was wrong. The former chef at the city’s popular XO restaurant, which closed in late 2023, can pull the kind of crowds that will easily polish off a mountain of rice in a week. In the first few days, queues snaked all the way to the entrance of the hotel, about 200 metres away.
The lines were there for Ramakrishna’s tight menu of homestyle South-East Asian cooking, which currently consists of two meat curries, two vegetable dishes, rice, condiments and roti. Much of the food draws from his Tamil Malaysian background, particularly the “Amma’s chicken curry”, which he says would be familiar to anyone of Tamil or South Indian descent. He also plans to branch out into Thai, Vietnamese and Indonesian flavours when the mood strikes. Diners can take their food home or eat at one of the venue’s 27 seats. “I want it to feel like a roadside eatery. Very simple but with food that tastes like home.”
The punters are at a more manageable level than they were when the diner first opened, which suits Ramakrishna as he hopes this venture will allow him more time to be with his family. “It’s been a huge confidence boost to know that I can whip up classic Mum–style food and people will support it. And that I can be home in time for dinner with my wife. It’s a win-win for me.” And a big win for Canberra.
Reading list
From the latest novels to essential reads, these are our page-turning picks.
Story by Michael Williams
The book everyone is reading I love Katie Kitamura’s novels – A Separation and Intimacies are both modern classics. She writes cerebral, literary ideas in accessible, sharp, human prose. Her latest, Audition, is a narrative split between two characters who we think we know but more and more about them is revealed as the story goes on.
The book you should be reading
Consider Yourself Kissed by Jessica Stanley is a deeply romantic novel that follows Coralie, an Australian living in London, from her happily ever after through the decade or so that follows. Opening with her meeting Adam and falling for him, this grown-up love story looks at parenting, family, career and the angst of life against a backdrop of modern British politics. It’s funny, familiar and relatable.
The non-fiction book to know about I knew very little about Beatrice Faust – the trailblazing feminist activist and writer – before I read Judith Brett’s energetic and compelling biography, Fearless Beatrice Faust: Sex, Feminism & Body Politics. This is a portrait of a complicated woman at a time of huge change in Australia and Brett’s skills as a historian are evident throughout.
The Australian book to read now
Anyone who watched the HBO series The Leftovers, which explored a world after a rapture-like event, will find echoes in Chris Flynn’s gripping new novel, Orpheus Nine. It reads like an Australian Stephen King story – its central mystery is horrifying – but if you like scares, there’s heaps here to love.
The classic book to catch up on Arguably the Great Australian Novel, Snake is a slim volume, often forgotten or overlooked. Yet it tells an intensely powerful story of a marriage, of rural isolation and a woman trapped in her own life. The late Kate Jennings was a genius and this book is her masterpiece. I cannot recommend it enough.
Ahuriri Valley, New Zealand
up for an intimate fine-dining experience in the middle of nowhere.
Story by Amanda Linnell
I’m high on a mountain ridge, sitting atop Lexy, a strong palomino horse, as the alpine air blows her golden mane. The view stretches to snowdusted mountains that prod an endless blue sky, east and west across rugged hills and down to a glacier-carved valley. Three hours ago, I was in Queenstown, the bustling South Island tourism hub. Now, I feel like a speck in the 49,000-hectare Ahuriri Conservation Park. Lexy stomps her feet, eager to move. She nudges past Tormento, the gentle grey giant leading our group of three. Behind us, our guide, Olivia Smallbone, is explaining the area’s history. “The valley is named after a Māori chief. It was a route to collect precious pounamu [greenstone] from the West Coast.”
The horses quicken as we descend, clip-clopping past the shearing shed that’s stood on this spot since the 1870s. Here, 3000 merino sheep are mustered and shorn twice a year. There’s the option to explore a stand of ancient beech trees or follow the bows and bends of the river with its gin-clear waters.
We bypass The Lindis (thelindisgroup. com), the luxury lodge where I’m staying with my partner on Ben Avon Station, which encompasses more than 2500 hectares. Designed to seamlessly connect with its environment, the property’s curved roof mimics the rolling hills so that it seems to disappear into the landscape.
Saddle
We ride on, following the amber-hued paddocks to The Black Diamond (above), the lodge’s remote destination diner for its signature barbecue lunch. From afar, the jagged, angular structure appears otherworldly. You can also get there by hiking or in a ute, if you prefer; our sure-footed steeds are keen to arrive. Up close, the glass walls and dark larch timber create an unexpected and inviting shelter. Inside, there’s a fireplace, plush sheepskin-covered seats and a glass dining table, set for lunch, floating at its centre. Our host, Andrew Cousins, activity manager at The Lindis, greets us with glasses of champagne. He slides back the walls to merge the interior and exterior. From a wee
kitchen and grill, chef Asher Gilding crafts a feast using lodge-grown produce and other locally sourced ingredients. A platter of delicate baby radishes, edible flowers and pickled cucumbers. Salmon, wrapped in fresh garden leaves and topped with caviar, melts on the tongue. Juicy grilled lamb chops are paired with charred vegetables. A dessert of blackberries explodes with flavour.
As I savour each bite, Cousins regales us with tales of his mountain adventures, foraging wild herbs and braving the elements. “This place teaches patience and respect,” he says. “Nature is in charge here.”
The steady flow of wine gives way to the temptation to spend the afternoon
stretched out on the sheepskins. Reinforcing Cousins’ words, clouds cast shadows across the valley and the wind gets up. We head back to the lodge in the ute, with him at the wheel. Housing just eight couples at a time across five luxury suites in the main building and three glass pods tucked beyond a ridge, the property feels private and secluded. We barely see our fellow guests, passing each other like ships over sublime meals at the main restaurant.
I feel far from civilisation and am amazed that even a couple of days here can have such a big impact. “Going into nature clears your head,” says Cousins. “It helps put life into perspective.”
Earn 5,000 bonus Qantas Points
* Eligible for Qantas Frequent Flyer members who register for the offer via the registration page and make their first booking (min spend $150) through qantas.com/hotels and qantas.com/holidays , between 12:01am (AEDT) 1 April 2025 and 11:59pm (AEST) 4 May 2025 for travel until 1 April 2026. Excludes Airbnb, Qantas Activities and Qantas Tours. T&Cs apply. Deposit Pay is available on select properties, provided the property offers free cancellation and your check-in date is more than 21 days from the booking date. It is not available on Fly + Stay Holidays. Visit our FAQ page at qantas.com/hotels/faqs#deposit-pay for more information. Conditions apply.
Earn 3 Qantas Points per $1 spent
Love at first flight
Book your accommodation with Qantas Hotels and Holidays to earn points on one of Qantas’s new routes (think island hopping in Palau, skiing in Sapporo or snorkelling in Vanuatu).
Dive into pristine Palau
Dubbed the Paradise Express, Qantas’s direct route between Brisbane and Palau took off for the first time in December. Remote beaches, world-famous dive sites and the five-star Palau Sunrise Sea View Landison Retreat make this tiny Pacific country south-east of the Philippines frankly irresistible.
From $919 or 113,956 points for 2 nights for 2 guests . ^
Ski Sapporo’s famed slopes
Direct seasonal flights from Sydney to Sapporo launch 15 December 2025.* Stay at Hotel Gracery Sapporo to explore Japan’s fifth-largest city (try the much-loved miso ramen at one of the specialty diners at Susukino’s “Ramen Alley”) before hitting the powder at Hokkaido’s iconic ski fields.
From $406 or 51,394 points for 2 nights for 2 guests.^
Find paradise in Vanuatu
The archipelago’s lush rainforests, swimming holes and coral reefs are now just a three-hour direct flight from Brisbane. A further three-minute ferry from Port Vila will whisk you to your overwater faré on the private island that’s home to the luxurious Iririki Island Resort & Spa
From $862 or 107,259 points for 2 nights for 2 guests.^
Book your accommodation with Qantas Hotels or bundle your hotel and flights to save with Qantas Holidays. Earn 3 points per $1 spent and receive Status Credits on flights or use your points to save.
Want advice or support booking your next holiday? Call our team of Holiday Experts on 13 70 66. No additional booking fees apply.
Ready to book now? Search Qantas Hotels and Qantas Holidays to earn and use points on your next getaway.
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Madeleine de Proust tiny corn cobs.
With flashy fitouts, limited-edition treats and merch that’s just as sweet, bakeries are the new black.
Story by Alexandra Carlton
Stepping inside Madeleine de Proust (above; madeleinede proust.com.au) feels like entering into a fairytale. The pâtisserie in Carlton, Melbourne (Naarm), creates only one thing – featherlight, seashell-shaped madeleines (left) – and presentation is paramount. While some of the little cakes are fashioned to look like tiny corn cobs or teddy bears, others are painted in galaxy-blue or glossy ladybug-red and look more like confectionery than a baked good. The back wall shimmers with gold ribbons stamped with the store’s name and there’s usually a madeleine tower on the counter. Even the packaging is tactile and sumptuous; each treat is carefully pressed into a bright orange box and presented in a bag tied with ribbon.
“We’re trying to create something that people would love to give as a present,” says co-owner Rong Yao Soh who, with partner Hyoju Park, created the brand. “We’re sort of a cross between a bakery, a pâtisserie and a gift shop.”
Bakery culture is having a moment in Australia. No longer just a spot to stop for a loaf of bread or something sweet, some now offer branded tote bags and T-shirts (the cute iron-on patches from Burnt Honey in Copacabana, NSW, are particularly
collectible; burnthoneybakery.com.au). Others feature slick interior design and limited-edition flavours of doughnuts, macarons and more. There are even dedicated bakery run clubs, where groups of friends lace on trainers and sprint their way to an éclair. The modern bakery doesn’t just sell croissants and cannelés – it’s become something of a lifestyle statement.
In Chippendale, Sydney (Warrane), Yeen Veerasenee has opened bakehouse and café Khanom House (@khanomhouse. syd) after years of selling his wares at markets. The Thai native is self-taught and his products are mostly Asian-inspired, such as airy pandan chiffon cake and Thai-tea cheesecake (“khanom” means “dessert” in Thai). His rich honey cake, a recipe that was shared by a Ukrainian friend’s grandmother, is another big hit. When designing the fit-out, he put a lot of thought into how the space would make his customers feel. The branding is green like a pandan leaf, which he hopes invokes a sense of calm. “I want people to feel that it’s welcoming and cosy,” he says. The aim is for customers to share honey cakes at the outdoor benches, sip on Double Tap coffee and form connections and a sense of community. Sounds like the sweetest dream.
More bakeries to visit around the country
VIC
Chéri
The logo for this new South Melbourne spot (right; cherieatery. com.au) is a bright red pair of lips that also look like eyes and you’ll find it stamped all over the brightly coloured space. The image even comes in cake form: a pistachio sponge made with lychee mousse and raspberry compote, covered in a red chocolate shell. If you prefer to start with savoury, there’s also a courtyard serving café classics and Italian dishes.
Salam
Chef and Brûlée pâtisserie owner
Mariana Chedid combines her Lebanese heritage with French Cordon Bleu training to present this deliciously decadent hybrid of both cultures in Port Melbourne (salambakery.com.au). Knefeh is a big draw, of course, and her mhalabieh cheesecake, topped with crushed pistaschio and a scattering of rose petals, is as pretty as it is moreish.
WA
Teeter Bakery
When a business only bakes in small batches and opens between Thursday and Saturday, expect queues. But a five- or 10-minute wait is certainly worth it at this flower-dappled Perth shop run by pastry chef Natasha Brownfield (teeterbakery.com). Purists snaffle up the croissants and morning buns but don’t sleep on the savoury danishes, made with local cheese, tomato and greens. If you do a clean sweep of the lot, carry it home in one of the minimalist branded totes.
Goods Bakery
Open seven days, this popular West Leederville spot (@_goodsbakery) covers every baking base imaginable. The crullers – doughnuts made from
deep-fried swirls of choux – are a top seller and the chewy choc-chip biscuits fly off the shelves. There are also pantry staples available, such as coffee beans, jam and olive oil.
NSW Petit Loulou
Open since February, Petit Loulou (above; (@petitloulou.sydney) is the sweet little sister to Loulou Bistro in Martin Place, which in turn is the CBD sibling of Loulou Bistro, Boulangerie & Traiteur in Milsons Point. The busy kiosk has a bit of café-style seating but the focus is on takeaway – the flaky French-butter croissants, well-stuffed éclairs and sausage rolls are pleasingly portable.
Peaches Patisserie
Located in Dorrigo on the NSW North Coast, this artisanal bakeshop (peachespatisserie.com.au) is worth
the road trip. The mango caramel tarts, topped with luscious swirls of cream and fresh fruit, are so pretty that they look like they were designed for a doll’s tea party. Most of the tarts, cakes and pastries change in flavour according to the season and the creative mind of owner Beth O’Loughlin. Pick up a bunch of flowers while you’re there, grab a blanket and have a picnic in the nearby national park.
SA Mascavado Café & Pâtisserie
Owner Lea Chairesa started her pastry journey at Koi Dessert Bar and Black Star Pastry, two Sydney favourites known for their aesthetics as much as their flavours. Since 2020 she’s presented her take on all things sweet at this monochrome bakery in central Adelaide (mascavado.love). Expect tricked-up croissants and scrolls, filled with creams, jams and fruit.
QLD
Cerin Pasticceria
If you only end up trying one thing at this sleek Italian-style bakery (cerinpasticceria.com) in Brisbane’s Woolloongabba, get your hands on a cannoncini. Similar to a cannoli but a bit smaller, it’s a cone of pastry filled with decadent crema. If you only try two things (and why not?), go for the plump maritozzi – a cricketball-sized brioche bun filled with custard and cream that’s traditionally eaten for breakfast in Rome.
The Baker’s Duck
At Toowoomba’s prettiest pastry emporium (thebakersduck.com.au), every cake, tart and piece of viennoisserie is crafted with skill and delicacy. They also sell products to take home – including cookie dough rolls and French toast condiments – so you can recreate the bestsellers in your own kitchen.
Chicken curry pot pie at SilkSpoon, Melbourne.
Story by Alexandra Carlton
On the surface, this might look like an ordinary pie. But lift the lid – literally and figuratively – and there’s much more to it than meets the eye. The now-famous chicken curry pot pie is from SilkSpoon (silkspoon.com.au), the latest venture from Lee Ho Fook chef Victor Liong, on Melbourne’s Bourke Street. Liong describes the fast, casual and affordable spot as “halfway between a Taiwanese tea house and a Parisian tea salon”.
Built around the idea of the old Silk Road, the menu features “influences of East Asia, reaching towards the West but also reaching towards China”. And this not-so-humble pie is a pretty good example of what Liong is trying to achieve. Its pastry is roti, a flaky flatbread often eaten with curry in Malaysia and Singapore, while the filling beneath is a fragrant yet mild chicken and vegetable curry that borrows its flavour profile from many different cultures. There’s lemongrass, ginger and coconut that nods to Hong Kong curries and their blend of Eastern and Western influences, plus some Japanese curry elements such as fenugreek and cumin. “The flavours are agreeable for a whole range of people,” says the chef.
So agreeable, in fact, that at least one gets served to almost every table. “I’ve seen people write on Instagram: ‘Pro tip: get fries on the side and dip them in the curry sauce,’” says Liong. “I love that. It’s exactly the sort of thing I want people to do with this dish.”
FAIRYTALES FOR GROWN-UPS.
Where to eat, drink and be seen right now.
Story by Alexandra Carlton NSW Flora
Even carnivores shouldn’t be scared by the “v” word at Flora (paisanoand daughters.com.au), an all-day vegetarian spot on Australia Street in Sydney’s Newtown. The menu is inventive and delicious at dinner, with dishes such as brussels sprout pierogies with cultured cream and koshihikari rice with corn, aji chilli and marjoram; while daytime looks like cacao husk pancakes and roast tomato and bullhorn pepper gazpacho.
Island Radio
Wunderlich Lane, in the inner-city suburb of Redfern, is shaping up to be one of the buzziest places to eat and hang out in Sydney. Upbeat and bright, Island Radio (right; islandradio.sydney) is a fresh new addition and exactly what you want in a neighbourhood bar. You’ll find South-East Asian-style snacks as well as half-price noodles every Tuesday but perhaps the most interesting item on the menu is a bit of a swerve: toasted rice bread. Light, fluffy and served with sambal butter, it’s ideal for swiping up the sauce from dishes such as Wagyu beef rendang.
VIC Taverna
Melbourne Greek food is experiencing something of a renaissance, as younger generations set out to preserve treasured
family recipes. This new example in Brunswick East (ourtaverna.com), which sprung from a series of pop-ups, walks a clever line between tradition and modern presentation in dishes such as gauros (raki-cured sardines) and smoked pork fillets showered in nasturtium flowers and pear slices.
QLD
Norté and Sueño
The team from Rick Shores has opened not one but two new venues, which are handily stacked on top of each other in Mermaid Beach on the Gold Coast (norte.restaurant). On the ground floor, Norté is a sultry Latin restaurant and agave bar where plates are refined (try chargrilled octopus with native chimichurri) and the energy smoulders. Upstairs, the food at sun-baked rooftop bar Sueño (the best seats are on the alfresco terrace) has seaside Mexican flair – tostadas, ceviche and tacos.
TAS
Oirthir
Tasmania is the epicentre of Australian whisky production so it makes sense that a restaurant here would borrow from Scottish culinary traditions. Chefs Bob Piechniczek and Jillian McInnes are the faces behind Oirthir (pronounced Oor-heid, it means “coast”; oirthir.com) in Bream Creek, a 45-minute drive from Hobart. The pair have Scottish roots and French training, and their food reflects both in a seven-course lunch menu that draws heavily from nearby suppliers, including Bangor lamb and
oysters from Boomer Bay. Local and Scottish whiskies play a starring role on the beverage list, alongside Australian and French wines.
Tolpuddle Vineyard
Located in the township of Richmond, north-east of Hobart, Tolpuddle Vineyard (tolpuddlevineyard.com) is one of Tasmania’s great wine brands. Owned by well-known winemaking cousins Michael Hill-Smith and Martin Shaw, the estate chardonnay and pinot noir are prized. Recently, sommelier Pip Anderson, formerly of MONA, came on board to launch the Tasting Room, which is open by appointment, Friday to Monday. The small plates are simple and pulled straight from the earth and sea – Tongola goat’s cheese with honey and hazelnut, scallops with lemon and garlic butter – and match perfectly with a glass of Tolpuddle’s best.
WA
Lola Underground
Arguably Perth’s most beautiful landmark, the State Buildings complex has refit its hideaway basement into a brand-new bar. Lola Underground (lolaunderground.com) is the capital city sister of Dunsborough’s Lady Lola, in the state’s South West, and both have been conceived by hospitality stalwarts Michelle Forbes and Marinela (Nella) Antonic. The new, walk-ins only space is sumptuous and sensual, decked out with extravagant wallpaper and tropical plants. Stick to the classics on the cocktail front: they do a mean Negroni and Tommy’s Margarita.
Woodburn
This is the insider’s guide to dining out in Newcastle, NSW.
As told to Stephanie Wood
“It’s an exciting time to have a restaurant in Newcastle,” says Stephanie Wells, who opened Humbug (humbugnewcastle. com.au) with her partner, chef Michael Portley (left), in 2022. Located on Hunter Street in the CBD, the welcoming insideoutside eatery embodies the couple’s warm, relaxed approach. Sydney-born Portley’s vibrant food takes cues from his time at restaurants such as the fire-fuelled Porteño in Surry Hills but is rooted in the classics, which might mean local vegetables with miso bagna càuda (Italian anchovy and garlic dipping sauce) or bucatini with Coffs Harbour prawn and chilli prawn butter. Here, Wells reveals her favourite places around town.
Equium Social for an Asian-inspired breakfast
“In Mayfield East, this modern Australian café (equiumsocial.com.au) does everything to an exceptional standard, including housemade ferments, pickles and bread. My choice is either the brown rice congee or a turmeric crêpe with herby cucumber salad, coconut sambal, crisp shallot, peanuts and a fried egg. The coffee is brilliant, too.”
Arno Deli for the porchetta panini “This hole-in-the-wall place (arnodeli.com.au) has great charcuterie and cheese but also out-of-thisworld paninis. I love the number two – porchetta and eggplant with aïoli on schiacciata bread – with added Calabrian chilli. In the morning, you can get excellent coffee but I go for a late lunch and a cheeky glass or two from the Italian-focused wine list.”
Vera for wine and charcuterie
“I like to visit this boutique spot (verawine.com.au) in Hamilton to chat with the owners, wine experts Florence Diffey and Josh Di Stefano. Known for their selection of local, cult and rare wines, they will happily walk you through South African chenin blanc or a delicious Etna rosso. At the front is a small bar that can seat 12 people, where they serve simple charcuterie and cheese boards; the bottleshop is at the back.”
Limoo for slow-cooked lamb
“The Iranian owners of this neighbourhood restaurant (limoocafe.com.au) in Hamilton have created a homely space with traditional artworks, Persian rugs and colourful plates decorating the walls. I order the mahiche – slow-cooked lamb shanks with Persian spices, saffron and tomato – and the khoresht aloo, saffron chicken with apricot and barberries. The Persian love cake is also fantastic.”
The Underground for live music and a Negroni
“Underneath The Grand hotel is an atmospheric, speakeasy-style bar (thegrandnewcastle. com.au). It’s all about community, passion and energy – and jazz. Thursday nights can turn into a bit of a jam session so make sure you’re there before the show kicks off to grab a seat. I always have a Negroni and you can get high-quality pub food from the upstairs menu.”
Flotilla for a fancy dinner
“This place (theflotilla. com.au) is the big-ticket night out in Newcastle. They serve a seasonal set menu with coastal and Mediterranean inflections. The open kitchen is impressive, with open-fire cooking at its heart – I love to sit at the bar in front of the chefs. Make sure to grab a cocktail – the Si Chef is a must. The wine list is excellent, too – go big with a burgundy.”
Vera
Limoo
Flotilla
Go west for cool-climate wines, cosy restaurants and a taste of Orange charm.
Story by Alexandra Carlton
If its name were to accurately reflect its most prized crop, the Central West NSW city of Orange could easily be called Grape. The cool-climate winegrowing region, a 50-minute flight from Sydney (Warrane) on Wiradjuri Country, is notable for its range of elevations – including the highest-altitude vineyards in the country – which produce everything from Champagne-style sparklings to full-bodied shiraz. Autumn and winter are popular times to visit for fireside cosiness but the warmer months are just as enticing – the mild climate means the mercury rarely pushes past the low 30s and fresh produce is at its peak.
The wineries
ChaLou Wines
When you wind your way up the driveway of this family-run estate (chalouwines.com.au) at Emu Swamp, you might be greeted by vignerons Nadja Wallington and Steve Mobbs. Or, just as likely, it’ll be Barnacle the black labrador and chickens Corn and Zee who first make your acquaintance. The cellar door is open for tastings Friday to Monday or book the Bud to Bottle Tour, where you’ll sample the property’s prized syrah, chardonnay and pinot noir straight from the barrel and take a stroll among the apple, apricot and mulberry trees, glass in hand.
Rikard Wines
At more than 1000 metres above sea level, this low-key cellar door (rikardwines.com.au) in Nashdale has one of the most spectacular views in the region; a pastel tapestry of vines, meadows and distant smoke-grey peaks. The tasting room sits right among the barrels and you’re encouraged to sink into a chesterfield as winemaker William Rikard-Bell gives a spirited explanation of his low-intervention wines. The elegant, textured blanc de blancs – with its splash of armagnac for nuttiness – is a standout, as is the Black Label pinot noir.
Rowlee
The majority of Orange’s cellar doors are tastings-only, with the odd cheese or charcuterie platter. However, Rowlee (rowleewines.com.au) in Nashdale is one of the few where you can enjoy a full sit-down lunch on the leafy patio of the onsite restaurant. Head chef Simon Furley has created a menu of generous share plates that pair beautifully with the label’s wines, including the standout entrée of cured and crisped carrot on a bed of housemade ricotta. Be sure to order a few rounds of flatbread to soak up the molasses dressing.
The restaurants
Lucetta Dining
Exposed brick and concrete walls, an accidental sculpture made from a waterfall of melted candle wax and a pretty little niche decorated with Spanish-style religious curios combine to make this Italian restaurant (left; lucettadining.com) one of the city’s loveliest places to grab dinner. The savoury seada – a crescent-shaped Sardinian pastry topped with ricotta, scamorza and truffle pecorino – is a fine way to kick things off, while the tiramisu offers an unbeatable ending.
Hey Rosey
Even the most simple-looking snacks at this elbow-to-elbow wine bar (heyrosey. com.au) pack a flavourful punch, thanks
to the considered cooking of head chef Hugh Piper (above), who once clanged the pans at Sydney’s Dear Sainte Éloise. It might be a lightly pickled apricot slice draped with pork neck from nearby Trunkey Creek that’s lifted with the fragrance of fig leaf oil and mustard seeds or a tumble of heirloom tomatoes scattered with padrón peppers and tarragon dressed with a slick of leek oil. Something from the detailed Martini menu is non-negotiable and the house rosé – called, naturally, Hey Rosé – is a solid drop.
The stay
De Russie Boutique Hotel
Spacious and comfortable, this collection of 25 self-contained suites and two- and three-bedroom apartments (derussiehotels.com.au) housed inside a pretty, ivy-clad building puts you right in the middle of town. Guests have access to plenty of off-street parking and a generous (and complimentary) continental breakfast of granola, toast and local coffee is delivered to your room every morning.
Savagnin is a dry white that natural wine lovers will adore.
Story by Peter Bourne
Koerner Balhannah Savagnin
Damon Koerner’s savagnin is unfiltered so it’s a touch cloudy with a pale bronze tone. Spiced honey and tangy mandarin greet the nose, followed by an energetic palate and a decisive finish.
2023 / Adelaide Hills, SA / $38
Crittenden Cri de Coeur Savagnin Sous Voile
This take on vin jaune by Rollo Crittenden is a triumph. It smells of mahogany with hints of honey and white chocolate, and flavours of cumquat and toasted almond.
2019 / Mornington Peninsula, Vic / $95
There seems to be a buzz about savagnin from the Jura region. Where exactly is it? A tiny appellation of less than 2000 hectares, Jura is sandwiched between Burgundy in France and the Swiss Alps. It’s cool and often damp, with wooded areas and grassy meadows where cows graze. The area is also known for its comté cheese. What makes the wine so special? Savagnin is a small-berried, thick-skinned grape that can be made into a floral, dry white wine or, more famously, vin jaune, which is aged in oak for a minimum of six years and three months. The barrels aren’t topped up and over time a veil of yeast flor develops, giving it a nutty, sherry-like character. These complex, micro-oxidised savagnins are fêted by natural wine lovers. Do we grow savagnin here? Yes but only after a mishap. Vines imported from Spain in the early 2000s were thought to be the Galician grape albariño but, after DNA testing, turned out to be savagnin. Early adopters split into two camps; some pulled out their vines while others – including Stoney Rise, Gemtree, Soumah, Amato Vino and BK Wines – embraced the happy accident. On the Mornington Peninsula, Rollo Crittenden took things further by crafting all the savagnin styles of the Jura. Is it always labelled as savagnin? The labeling can be a little confusing. Those marked ouillé have their barrels topped in the usual way, while savagnin sous voile are younger wines that undergo yeast flor ageing. Vin jaune, of course, has the mandatory six years and three months of yeast flor ageing described above. And the Château Chalon designation applies only to vin jaune produced in the Château Chalon sub-region. What do they cost? Local drops start at $25 and range up to $100; vin jaune prices reach $500 and more.
Bénedicte & Stéphane Tissot Savagnin Sous Voile
Stéphane Tissot is a cult hero in Jura. His wine is light amber in colour with a bouquet of crushed apple and honey mead, lemon pith flavours on the palate and a long, firm, bone-dry finale.
2020 / Jura, France / $160
Domaine Berthet-Bondet Château-Chalon AOC
The pale brass colour tells of its age, while a nutty, sherry-like bouquet confirms its maturity. There’s a toffee apple and spiced honey bouquet with great power and persistence.
2015 / Jura, France / $270
To nominate a restaurant for the Australia’s Choice Award, go to qantas.com/wineawards.
SILVER ENDEAVOUR, ANTARCTICA
ORNE HARBOUR, ANTARCTICA
INTO THE WILD
The thrill of an expedition cruise in Antarctica with Silversea is found in once-in-a-lifetime experiences on the water and the land.
STORY BY KIRSTEN GALLIOTT
In association with
“We go out paddling and attain nirvana,” says lead kayak guide Tyler Stern. I’m as close to the beating heart of Antarctica as I can imagine. On the water, in a kayak, surrounded by icebergs the size of buildings. The sea is a mirror, the air is pristine and the only sound I can hear is the clunk of the paddle as I push it through the “brash” (chunks of floating ice). When I stop, in awe of my surroundings and determined to remember this moment for the rest of my life, I can almost hear the ice breathing. For a place so remote, it feels so alive. I drift closer to an enormous berg that looks like a misshapen scoop of gelato, mesmerised by its pale blue glow. That’s when I hear Stern yell at me to move back – now. “There are some very large pieces of ice out here and that can be dangerous,” he had told us in the briefing. “So stay away from the ice if you value your life.”
Unlike Captain Robert Falcon Scott, who discovered the Antarctic Plateau but perished after making it to the South Pole, I will get home in one
piece. But I have a new understanding of the explorers who risked their lives in this fragile, frozen continent that’s twice the size of Australia. The landscape – 98 per cent of which is covered in ice – is utterly beguiling and constantly changing. The ice shifts from blinding white to baby blue. Under a threatening sky, it growls gunmetal grey. And with oceans continuing to warm, it is more precious than ever.
“You will be changed by the beauty of Antarctica,” promises expedition leader Peter Bergman. On a Zodiac, a fat rubber dinghy, hurtling towards Enterprise Island off the Antarctic Peninsula, the eight-deck Silver Endeavour – which Silversea (silversea.com) describes as “the most luxurious expedition ship ever built” – disappears behind me. That’s when we see the first whale. And then another. Orcas! “There are different ecotypes of orcas,” explains Stern as we stop the Zodiac to wait and watch. “They don’t interbreed or mix with each other. This particular one is called the Gerlache
orca [named after the Gerlache Strait, the channel we’re floating in] and they cruise around here feeding exclusively on penguins.”
All up, there are three pods of the distinctive black-and-white killer whales splashing around in front of us – a magic, unexpected moment. Later, I discover that the crew has only ever seen them from the ship. It’s a reminder that every expedition cruise is different. “It’s all about having an intimate experience with wildlife and getting you to places that are often not a possibility,” says Bergman. “We want to be good custodians for Antarctica and all the wildlife here.”
“We laugh at their agility on the shore but penguins fly in the water,” says expedition guide Alexandra Hansen. It’s true that on land, the three types of penguins I see on our six-day cruise – the gentoo, chinstrap and Adélie – are comically clumsy, waddling down “penguin highways” through the snow and towards the sea, often falling flat on their
Kris Markovska. Oleksandr Matsibura
faces. That’s because they spend up to 75 per cent of their lives in the ocean, where they leap out of the water like sea lions performing a show.
At Mikkelsen Harbour, there are literally thousands of gentoo penguins, their beaks like a slash of orange lipstick. I trudge up the snowy hill (my boots disinfected to protect the vulnerable landscape) and carefully dodge the tuxedoed birds as they shuffle about. “You must keep a distance of five metres,” says Bergman. “If wildlife is coming to you, you need to step away and maintain your distance.”
It’s mating season and I watch the female gentoo penguins throw their heads back and honk loudly. They’re not going to give Barry White a run for his
money but the monotonous “song” does the trick. “They’ll wait until the snow has melted – around December – to lay their eggs,” says expedition guide Denis Elterman, who adds that the gentoos are among the most successful breeders. “No snow means a greater chance of them incubating their eggs successfully.”
I yearn to witness the next stage – the hatching chicks, the servant parents – but that’s later in the season in Antarctica, when the ice thins and the ocean swells with seals and whales. Either way, the seventh continent defies all expectations. “Antarctica has such a power to it,” says Hansen. “It’s not until you see it that you have that unique perspective. It’s a completely otherworldly place.”
Sam Edmonds
“ It’s all about having an intimate experience with wildlife and getting you to places that are often not a possibility. ”
Presented by Silversea
Luxury at the last frontier
Where the Great White South’s rugged beauty is matched only by the grandeur of your onboard experience.
As you kayak past curious Antarctic fur seals, a spacious onboard suite is prepared to your preferences. While the intimate expedition ship glides through dramatic fjords too narrow for larger vessels, champagne is chilling for your return. And as ancient glaciers silently drift by, a specialised team prepares an educational session to contextualise the amazing landscapes you just witnessed. Silversea, the leader in ultra-luxury expeditions, proves that even Antarctica, the world’s most remote continent, can be experienced in unparalleled comfort.
Stimulate mind and body
Each day brings fresh insights from the expedition team’s professional naturalists, biologists and geologists. Their range of comprehensive lectures will transform your understanding of Antarctica’s ecosystem, from detailed breakdowns of penguin colony social structures to the fascinating geology of the ancient ice formations passing by your window. Beyond scheduled programming, casual conversations with these experts over dinner add layers of meaning to each shore excursion. The ship’s smaller size and industry-leading crew-to-guest ratio means you’re never just part of the crowd, whether taking a hands-on workshop or discussing
wildlife encounters in the observation lounge. After enriching the mind, tend to the body in the ship’s spa. Luxuriate with a deep-tissue massage to ease muscles after Zodiac excursions, or find your flow in a yoga class as views of icebergs and snow-capped peaks fill the floor-to-ceiling windows.
A seamless, all-inclusive experience
From guided Zodiac, land and sea tours to complimentary gear like expedition parkas and backpacks, everything you need for your Antarctic journey is included, providing a truly stress-free experience. Along with beverages throughout the ship and 24-hour in-suite dining, enjoy all-inclusive culinary delights at distinctive venues curated by top-tier
chefs. At The Restaurant, globally inspired dishes like ceviche with jalapeño and citrus complement the sweeping ocean vistas while The Grill’s sophisticated alfresco dining is perfect for enjoying a filet mignon as the sun sets over the pool deck. Onboard Silversea’s Silver Cloud, Silver Endeavour and Silver Wind ships, you can dine at the breezy La Terrazza on authentic Italian fare such as braised duck with handmade pappardelle.
Stretch out in a suite
With one of the highest space-per-guest ratios at sea, the all-suite ships feature private viewing platforms, offering quiet solitude as you gaze at the extraordinary polar landscape. Inside, every detail is considered, from exclusive toiletries and bath salts to soothing interiors featuring soft neutrals and marble finishes. Whether you choose an elegant Veranda Suite or the lavish Owner’s Suite, you might host dinner for your fellow travellers, unwind in a rainforest shower after expeditions or sip champagne while watching whales breach just beyond your teak balcony. Walk-in wardrobes and vanity
Visit silversea.com , call 1300 306 872 or see your travel professional
tables with magnifying mirrors allow you to attend to practical luxuries, while Egyptian linens and a bespoke pillow menu ensure a good night’s sleep to balance the thrill of the day’s adventures.
Personalised service
When you step aboard a Silversea expedition ship, every detail is designed to make your journey as unforgettable and personal as the landscapes are sublime. Whether it’s a well-pressed jacket waiting after a day exploring Antarctica’s pristine shores or a warm drink offered when you return from a Zodiac excursion, with a near one-to-one crew-to-guest ratio, the attentive team ensures your every need is anticipated and met. The size of the ships allows for an unparalleled level of personalised service, creating a convivial atmosphere where the crew knows your preferences by heart. From the bespoke touches in your suite to the enriching conversations with expert guides, every moment onboard is tailored to elevate your experience of the world’s most remote continent.
(Clockwise from left) Silver Endeavour in Antarctica; a Classic Veranda Suite; enjoy a Zodiac excursion; dine on global cuisine at The Restaurant.
Discover the Remarkable
Botswana
Discover the wilds of Botswana with the pioneers of the original luxury safari. Join us on this fagship adventure, which places you front and centre, immersing you in breathtaking wildlife scenes, from the Kalahari elephants of Chobe National Park to the great predators of the Okavango Delta.
Witness the raw power of Victoria Falls and cruise the Zambezi River at sunset. Encounter Africa’s iconic species in the savannahs of Chobe, then fy into a private reserve in the world’s greatest inland delta. Spend four days exploring vast lagoons and palm islands, where thousands of birds come to bathe, and where wildlife roams unfettered and free. Throughout your journey, enjoy unmatched elegance and comfort at A&K’s Sanctuary Camps & Lodges, the epitome of ‘luxury, naturally’.
10 day Botswana Safari In Style Small Group Journey from $23,185 pp.
VISIT ABERCROMBIEKENT.COM, CALL US ON 1300 589 717 OR TALK TO YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR.
THE JOURNEY
Karla Courtney
Nuuk, Greenland
AFTER DARK
In the sand forests of South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal province, what you see is only half the tale.
Story by Bridget de Maine
Photography by Marion Payr
A brief snarl. Then a sharp snap like a dry stick splintering underfoot. I can’t see the pride of lions but, boy, can I hear them. “They’re crunching on the bones,” says guide Josie Romer-Lee, a bit too loudly for my comfort. A foggy dusk and an impenetrable thicket shields us from the scene. Neither stops Romer-Lee driving up onto said thicket to get closer to the gory meal. Please, I telepathically beg, don’t park on top of their picnic.
“How close are they?” someone asks as the vehicle shudders to a halt with its front wheels off the ground. “Just there. Maybe seven metres? Watch out,” says Romer-Lee, gesturing loosely at me. “They might wander around your side.” I clutch both my mouth and the open-top Toyota, desperately hoping the group is done with question time.
It’s a surprise to no-one, least of all to the very composed team of Romer-Lee and tracker Thembinkosi Dlamini, known as “Mr. T”, that it’s my first time on safari. It’s also my first time in South Africa and when I board the truck for this game drive, all I’ve seen of the country are the pillowy hills of the north Durban coast, a few roadside tuck shops and a sprinkle of pineapple stands on the 3.5-hour journey from the airport.
My initiation takes place at &Beyond Phinda Forest Lodge (andbeyond.com) in KwaZulu-Natal, near the Eswatini
(Swaziland) border. It’s one of six lodges stationed on Phinda’s 30,000 hectares of cattle-farm-turned-private-game-reserve, where seven ecosystems adjoin. This patchwork of floodplain grassland, thornveld savanna, woodlands and sand forests teems with life. As far as close encounters go, the big cat ASMR I experienced doesn’t even rank. There was the time Steve, a cantankerous elephant, threatened to ruin a guest’s birthday by taking his trunk to a celebratory table (the cake was saved). Or when Romer-Lee had to climb a tree to escape a lion during her multi-day training hike in the reserve. I have a lot to learn.
My sleeping quarters are a far less testing environment. The 16 suites of the newly refurbished property nestle in the sand forests, one of the last habitats of its kind in the world. The Lebombo wattle and torchwood trees hide plenty of surprises outside the private cabins that have deep soaking tubs and wraparound balconies. On my way to breakfast after our evening encounter, I have to cautiously shoo a nyala, a type of antelope with a shiny striped pelt, off the path that leads to the restaurant. He moves just a little to the left, unperturbed.
The lodge’s infinity pool is also at the edge of the forest, as is the intimate, two-room spa, its floor-to-ceiling windows inviting in views of the surrounding savanna. Despite the odd
vervet monkey threatening to plop onto my table at lunch (and the fact I need an escort to my room for safety once the sun’s down), I can’t quite believe that after just a 10-minute drive, we have to break suddenly as an elephant concludes its dirt bath.
On Phinda, anything is possible. In the hazy light one afternoon, we trundle past a dazzle of zebras, their tails flicking golden dust into the air. Later, an implausibility of wildebeest allows us passage. We spot buffalo and shiny hippo heads sticking out of a swamp. We’re in Big Five territory but there are also birds, butterflies, spiders and beetles that can’t be found anywhere else and our guides point out beauty in all its shapes and sizes.
I fall briefly in love with a secretary bird, a crane-ish creature with a firework of head feathers, its black leg colourings reaching only to capri-length. We see the skittish suni – a teeny Bambi-like antelope endemic to the sand forest – outside reception. One night, driving into the darkness with only Mr T’s thin spotlight beaming us home, he shoots up a hand and Romer-Lee screeches to a halt. We back up, the light illuminating some scrub. Encouraged out of the car, I have to stand within 30 centimetres of where the beam lands before I can even make out the shape – a chameleon, no bigger than a quartered Granny Smith apple, curled on a leaf.
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The early evening drives, when the sun starts collapsing behind the trees, soon become my favourite, despite my shaky beginnings. In times of low light, the landscape undergoes a set change and the reserve’s residents start fighting for a say. Some sounds hiss out of the thorn bushes like sprinklers; some flick like a mechanical tracking beep; others urgently cry “Who? Who?!’ into the void. On the first night, I was keenly aware of the lack of fences, roofs and doors. But with each drive into the unknown, I relish the lack of boundaries more and more.
On our final night, we don’t head back to the lodge as usual. The truck rounds a new corner, revealing sleepout beds arranged in a crescent shape around a firepit and strung with mosquito nets. There’s a buffet of drinks and I can smell a barbecue underway. Our host from the lodge, Happy, has joined us and she’s brought marshmallows for the flames.
Though I’m shielded only by a thin mesh canopy, I fall asleep immediately in my soft swag. I’m woken a few hours later by two hyenas, discussing something in the dark. I’m as exposed as I could be but after five nights with little more than the moon as a spotlight, the sound of their shrieks doesn’t scare me. I pull the covers to my chin and float back into my dreams.
STEP BY STEP
A solo walk in north-eastern Spain rewards with beautiful landscapes, generous meals and friendships made along the way.
Story by Kendall Hill
Photography by Rubén Plasencia
Chanel the chihuahua cocks her head at me in confusion. I know her well enough now – we met two hours ago – to realise that I must be heading the wrong way. I rejoin her beside the refuge of Cogullons, where we both take a moment to admire the view. We’re standing more than 1000 metres above sea level, surrounded by forested gorges and the dramatic red sandstone escarpments and plateaux of the Prades Mountains.
It’s day one of my hike in southern Catalonia, Spain, and I’m following a stunning and occasionally challenging route devised by British-based On Foot Holidays (onfootholidays. co.uk). They put in all the legwork, so to speak, to equip hikers like me with every imaginable piece of practical information, including detailed written walking instructions complete with approximate timings, as well as digital and physical maps. They also book hotels and dinners and organise luggage transfers.
On Foot staffer Harriet Letherbarrow, just back from completing this very walk, kindly emailed me her tips before I set off, including a note to make sure no dogs follow me. Oops.
The week-long itinerary – I’m tackling an abridged fourday version – traces timeworn trading and monastic paths through the mountains to the prized vines of Montsant and Priorat. Great wine and food are a given around here and my
accommodation is in handpicked lodgings, such as Mas de l’Arlequí, a 230-year-old, ivy-clad farmhouse on the outskirts of Rojals, where I begin my walk.
My first taste of the region and the arrangements could scarcely be more promising. My warm, generous hosts, Ana and Alvar, have created a small paradise among the oak trees, about 130 kilometres west of Barcelona. After a tour of the house, Alvar leads me along a heath-scented track to the edge of a monumental escarpment furnished with deck chairs, where guests can catch cinematic sunsets and, on a clear day, see Mallorca outlined on the horizon. I feel like a god up here.
There are six other hikers staying, four friends from Canada and a couple from Colorado. I’m walking solo as a challenge, to test my capabilities, but there’s comfort in knowing that for the first couple of days I won’t be completely alone.
I wake at Mas de l’Arlequí to hear an owl hoot in the 7am darkness. It’s late autumn and, despite the short days, ideal walking conditions. Daytimes are warm and nights cool, and the woods are lively with locals foraging for mushrooms –particularly rovellons (Lactarius deliciosus). Alvar cautions me against foraging for myself: “There are some mushrooms you can eat only once.”
Fuelled by a big breakfast of cheeses, meats, freshly baked apple cake and coffee, and armed with a picnic lunch from Ana, I start off sensibly by tailing the Canadians, cross-checking our movements with my notes to orient myself. Gradually I fall into step beside them – and the jaunty little hound they picked up along the way – and discover they’ve just done an On Foot walk on the England/Wales border. I quiz them about how to tackle maps and apps and by the time we part an hour later (I leave them poring over some Neolithic rock art), I feel more confident about the days ahead. Plus, their furry friend has adopted me so instead of a bouncing blue dot, I follow a bouncy golden dog. I discover later from Alvar that Chanel is the neighbour’s pet. She often attaches herself to hikers and knows this trail intimately. It’s likely no surprise to her, after sharing my tortilla roll for lunch, that we part ways when the track drops down a cliffside too daunting for her tiny legs to navigate. She cries pitifully as I wave a sorrowful goodbye and thank her for helping me to find my feet.
This journey can be many things to many people. It’s bookended by the stately monasteries of Poblet and Escaladei
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and traces stone-walled ways trod by monks for centuries along the base of Montsant, the Holy Mountain. Those looking for a spiritual or religious alternative to the Camino might find it here on the Cami dels Cartoixans, “the way of the monasteries”. For nature-lovers there are magnificent, diverse landscapes and for hedonists there’s Catalan gastronomy – proudly local and seasonal – and the elite wines of Priorat. Dog-lovers won’t be disappointed either.
Walking days are long, usually between five and eight hours and at least 13 kilometres, at times gruelling but always exhilarating. I tramp through forests of oak and pine, along pathways fragrant with wild rosemary and thyme and traverse hillside vineyards carpeted in wild rocket flowers. Several times each day I pause to take in the enormity of a view – often soaring mountains and plunging canyons – and exclaim “Wow!” or “Oh my god!” to no-one because there’s rarely anyone in earshot.
The scenery is punctuated with medieval stone villages etched into mountainsides that accentuate the beauty of their surroundings: tiny La Morera sitting above a natural amphitheatre embroidered with hazelnut orchards and vines; ridgetop Bellmunt, where I feast on bocadillo and beer overlooking terraced hills of carignan and grenache; and the extraordinary sight of Siurana, a sandstone citadel that was the Arabs’ final stronghold in Catalonia, suspended in the air like a fantasy realm come to life.
At day’s end there’s always a bath and a bed waiting in characterful accommodation – including a converted 18th-century mayoral mansion in Cornudella de Montsant and a small vineyard hotel in the grape mecca of Gratallops – as well as memorable meals. In Prades, I dine like a prince on duck cannelloni in Pedro Ximénez sauce with a hint of truffle (they thrive in the hazelnut orchards here). At El Palauet in Cornudella the following evening, owner Dolors Sendra spoils me with a dégustation of olive oils and local wines and a hearty menu of everything in season. “Most people come here to know the nature and the wine,” she tells me. “These are good reasons.”
In Gratallops (“wolves scratching”) I try fine Priorat vintages at the pioneering Clos Figueras winery then, at its offshoot Slate Wine Bar, enjoy rustic food and hyperlocal wines, including a rare grape, grown only here, known as escanyavella or “choke the old lady” for its tough skin and astringent fruit. Like everything I taste on this adventure, it’s delicious.
At the end of the walk, I join its architect, Joanna Thomas, for dinner at Lotus Priorat hotel. Sipping a white grenache blend made by the same family for 10 generations, she explains how she pulled the itinerary together by weaving historical paths through changing landscapes and wine styles. “It’s so wild and full of history and culture,” she says. “I’m sure I’ve designed the most beautiful walk in the world.” After the glorious time I’ve had, it’s difficult to disagree.
Snap a pic of a kangaroo on the beach, drift down a rainforest river and live the
dream on your own private island. How many of these iconic experiences have you ticked off?
castaway
Plug into the capital’s energy
Before you even touch down, some of Meeanjin’s (Brisbane’s) best features reveal themselves. Hinting at the easy-breezy outdoor lifestyle the city is known for, parklands stretch out alongside Maiwar (Brisbane River) and crowds cluster at lively precincts dotted along the riverfront. Make a beeline for Sky Deck, the crown jewel of the freshly unveiled Queen’s Wharf, positioned 100 metres above the water, to soak up the dazzling views of the city, river and Scenic Rim mountains from rooftop bar Cicada Blu or upscale dining room Aloria. For a dash of theatre with your river views, head to Cucina Regina, on the Terrace below Sky Deck, where authentic Italian dishes are finished at your table by a server.
2
Enjoy art after hours
The rare opportunity to wander the halls of QAGOMA , taking in dynamic Indigenous Australian artworks in complete privacy, is just the opening act when you join the First Artists: Exceptional Indigenous Art & Dining Experience. With exclusive access to the gallery for up to 25 guests, the evening – hosted by First Nationsowned Blaklash Creative – also features a Smoking Ceremony, storytelling, a didgeridoo and dance performance, plus a multi-course dinner starring native Australian ingredients.
3
Seek cultural connection
Beloved holiday spot Minjerribah (North Stradbroke Island), a short ferry ride from Brisbane, has been home to generations of Quandamooka woman Elisha Kissick’s family. At Yura Tours, Kissick welcomes guests to “Straddie”, sharing creation stories and local knowledge about plants and wildlife. Go on a whale-watching cultural walk at Point Lookout’s Headland Park (June to end of August) and the cast of extras could include dolphins, turtles and manta rays.
Surf (and eat) your heart out
A thrilling beach holiday or glamorous city break? You don’t have to choose on the Gold Coast with more than 70 kilometres of beaches and stand-out coffee and food on every corner. Learn to ride on Kirra Beach’s beginner-friendly waves with Kirra Point Surf School, then order miso scrambled eggs at Tarte on the banks of nearby Currumbin Creek while your hair is still wet. Pros will love the south-south-east swells at Kirra Point followed by a seafood feast at Pipi’s – don’t skip the lobster with handmade linguine. If you prefer your feet to stay firmly planted on the sand, opt for a splash in the Nobby Beach shallows then wander up to Japanese-inspired newcomer Bobby Bang’s for iced matcha and panko-crumbed Wagyu sandos.
Get your glow back in the hinterland
You know that stomach-flipping, zero-gravity moment you feel on a roller-coaster? It happens no fewer than 12 times on the new Jungle Rush at Dreamworld. Many of Australia’s best theme parks are in easy reach here and nearby Warner Bros. Movie World has unveiled The Wizard of Oz precinct, which features a recreation of the 1939 film’s Yellow Brick Road and two family-friendly rides.
Just 30 minutes from the coastline, the Gold Coast hinterland offers striking lookouts and idyllic swimming holes. Follow one of the moderate walking trails in the lush Gondwana Rainforests to spy crimson rosellas flitting among the prehistoric greenery or visit after dark with Southern Cross Tours to witness the caves of Tamborine Mountain illuminated by glow worms.
Pick up a paddle
The Sunshine Coast is famous for its pristine stretches of sand (Mudjimba and Tea Tree Bay beaches are insider favourites) but it’s also where you’ll find one of only two everglades systems in the world. Here, three UNESCO biosphere reserves – the Noosa, the Great Sandy and the Sunshine Coast – create an unmatched environmental corridor. Noosa’s 65-kilometre stretch of wetlands calls for exploration via kayak, the serenity interrupted only by birdsong and the splash of a paddle. Book a guided tour with Kanu Kapers – and be sure to keep watch for black swans and eagles.
8
Take in a new light show
Campers have long embraced the world’s largest sand island, K’gari (formerly Fraser Island), 15 kilometres off the coast of Hervey Bay. But those seeking more luxurious accommodation can find it at Kingfisher Bay Resort . This 152-room eco-resort on the island’s sheltered west side also hosts light artist Bruce Ramus’s new Illumina show, featuring mesmerising laser projections and soundscapes.
Picnic among the peaks
The Sunshine Coast’s white beaches unfurl beneath you onboard an Oceanview Helicopters flight. Your exclusive Picnic on a Peak tour first stops in the country town of Kenilworth to sample local cheeses and doughnuts before soaring over the dramatic volcanic landscape of the Glass House Mountains. You’ll land atop a remote Sunshine Coast hinterland peak for an indulgent picnic with a view.
10
Kick back on a coral-fringed island
The Southern Great Barrier Reef is speckled with idyllic coral cays, each surrounded by reefs sheltering countless fish, rays and sea turtles – visit Heron, Wilson or Pumpkin islands or Lady Musgrave Island from October to March to experience the magic of turtle hatching season. Keen to extend your adventure? Pair wildlife encounters with coastal hikes and enjoy 17 sandy beaches on Great Keppel Island ; swim alongside manta rays on eco-friendly Lady Elliot Island ; or exclusively hire all seven self-catering cottages and beach bungalows on Pumpkin Island for the ultimate group escape.
11
Handcraft a delicious souvenir
The juicy sugar cane grown in the rich volcanic soil of the Bundaberg region has helped keep Australians in supply of “Bundy” rum for more than 130 years. The Blend Your Own Rum Experience at Bundaberg Rum Distillery lets you devise your own perfect formula – straight from the barrel.
12
Greet the day with wildlife
Drive 40 minutes north of Mackay and you’ll find the coastal Cape Hillsborough National Park. Time your arrival with the first rays of daylight to witness kangaroos and wallabies feasting on mangrove pods on Casuarina Beach against a morning sky of glorious pastels. Head west to Finch Hatton Gorge in the Pioneer Valley – this reserve is just over an hour’s drive from either Mackay or Cape Hillsborough – to take a refreshing dip in a rock pool, walk through rainforest to waterfalls and spot platypuses playing in crystal-clear streams.
13
Fly to an iconic reef
The Whitsundays’ Heart Reef is so perfect it almost looks manmade. Hamilton Island Air ’s Journey to the Heart tour takes Hamilton Island Resort guests by helicopter to land on a private pontoon for a closer look at the reef via a glass-bottom boat.
14
Discover an underwater dreamscape
You won’t sleep any closer to the warm blue waters of The Whitsundays than in the plush, below-deck lodgings of Reefsuites Underwater Hotel , a pontoon anchored at Hardy Reef, 74 kilometres off the coast of Airlie Beach.
15
Chart your own course
A bareboat charter lets you skipper yourself around some of Australia’s most iconic islands, stopping for a dip or to peel prawns for lunch whenever you fancy. With an operator such as Whitsunday Rent a Yacht, you don’t need a skipper’s licence, just a pre-departure lesson delivered at its base at Shute Harbour, near Airlie Beach. Then you’re free to set off on your adventure in a catamaran, yacht or motor cruiser, exploring sheltered bays or mooring off one of the gleaming white sandy beaches dotted across the Whitsunday Passage.
16
Revel in a private island
Just off the coast of Townsville, Pelorus Private Island boasts a five-suite residence and 400 hectares of pristine bush – and it can be all yours. Start the day with sunrise yoga on the coral-strewn sand and enjoy hyperlocal fare prepared by a private chef. Directly south, Orpheus Island Lodge, accessible only by helicopter, can be exclusively hired for up to 28 guests, with guided hikes and snorkelling expeditions, sunset cruises and unlimited use of water equipment.
17
Let loose in a tropical playground
Officially, it’s part of Townsville but in reality Yunbenun (Magnetic Island) is a charming, laid-back escape for locals and visitors alike, where you can spot koalas on hilltop hikes and tuck into Moreton Bay bug sliders at Stuffed on Seafood
18
Witness a giant waterfall
Thundering 268 metres over a rock face in Girringun National Park, one hour from Ingham, Wallaman Falls is Australia’s highest permanent single-drop waterfall. Take the one-hour hike to the base of the falls for the full sight-and-sound display of nature’s might.
19
Explore ancient skies
Although it’s remote – some 900 kilometres south-west of Cairns near the Gulf of Carpentaria – Burketown delivers no shortage of thrills. Led by the local Indigenous from Yagurli Tours , join a stargazing tour for fascinating cultural interpretations of the night sky, float over vast salt pans in a hot air balloon in conjunction with Balloon Aloft , or try traditional fishing techniques to reel in a catch on Albert River, home to barramundi, Australian bass and salmon. (All tours are subject to availability.)
20
Go beneath the surface
Beyond its beauty, the Great Barrier Reef is also the most exciting classroom you’ll ever visit. Learn to scuba dive on a full-day voyage from Cairns with Down Under Cruise and Dive or contribute to conservation efforts on a Marine Discoveries Reef Naturalist program. Both experiences are led by Master Reef Guides – industry leaders who have undergone extensive in-field training to share up-to-date knowledge about this unique ecosystem.
21 Float through a rainforest
The Great Barrier Reef is not the only World Heritage-listed site you can explore from Cairns. On a full-day experience with Back Country Bliss, you’ll drift down Mossman River on an inflatable and receive a traditional welcome to the Daintree Rainforest from the Kuku Yalanji people, who share stories about Country. Then you’ll embark on a guided walk through the lush rainforest and take a refreshing dip in Mossman Gorge.
22 Rock on in a boulder-f illed park
The Sphinx, Castle Rock, Turtle Rock: the granite formations of Girraween National Park near Stanthorpe in the state’s southwest make a descriptive roll call. Granite Arch is an easy stroll from Bald Rock Creek but for more of a challenge, tackle The Pyramid, a two-hour trail that takes you to Balancing Rock, a remarkably poised boulder. You’re in Granite Belt Wine Country so venture 25 minutes down the road to sip minimal-intervention drops from La Petite Mort, one of three labels at Bent Road Winery and Distillery.
23
Soak in mineral-rich outback springs
Coolabah and eucalyptus trees shade the seven geothermal mineral pools of Cunnamulla Hot Springs , overlooking the Warrego River, about 800 kilometres west of Brisbane. Paint your skin in cooling ancient clay and wash it off in a mineral shower. Then soak away any tension as you watch the beauty of the outback sunset turn into a canopy of twinkling stars. Plunge into the cold pool, if you dare, before relaxing in the sauna and steam room.
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Fossick for fossils
On Australia’s Dinosaur Trail, a 916-kilometre journey around Winton, Hughenden and Richmond in central-west Queensland, you’ll find evidence this area was once awash with marine life. Help unearth these prehistoric treasures on a Digging at Dawn tour at Kronosaurus Korner fossil museum. Three hours south, the Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum bears witness to a dinosaur stampede that occurred 95 million years ago.
25
Head back in history
Qantas’s roots as a regional carrier are celebrated at Longreach’s Qantas Founders Museum . Walking along the wing of a 747 – one of the many experiences on offer – you can just about see the nearby Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame, celebrating life on the land through exhibits and live shows.
GREATNESS AWAITS
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Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef offer adventure, relaxation and culture like nowhere else on earth. Celebrate with incredible sporting and cultural events, award-winning food and unrivalled wildlife experiences.
COVE
ARCTIC BLAST
Hike rugged landscapes and connect with Inuit culture on a cruise from Greenland to Canada.
Story and photography by Karla Courtney
“That’s a polar bear,” whispers Maria Merkuratsuk, pointing from our ship towards a treeless rock face jutting out of the water. I squint through binoculars and narrowly spot a cream shape that I would have mistaken for a lichen-covered boulder had it not raised its head and stared at me.
“What do we do?”
She nods, grabs the handrail and starts walking towards the bow. “We go to the bridge and let the captain know. We can’t go there.”
Merkuratsuk is one of nine Inuit guides aboard the 138-metre, ice-strengthened Ocean Endeavour. Throughout our 15-day expedition cruise with Adventure Canada (adventure canada.com) – travelling from south-west Greenland across the Davis Strait to Newfoundland and Labrador on Canada’s east coast – she shares her knowledge, personal stories and key words from Inuktitut, her language (nanumik takuvunga, meaning “I see a polar bear”, will prove particularly handy).
It’s autumn in the Arctic and the tundra is alive with juicy blueberries, crowberries and bakeapples begging to be picked, while crisp temperatures hovering around 10°C provide natural air-conditioning for brisk hikes. Fog cloaks the fjords and wind and ice sculpt a land characterised by towering glaciers, jagged mountains and deep inlets.
We board in Greenland at Kangerlussuaq, where the island’s longest airstrip clings to a vast sheet of ice that stretches for a staggering 1.7 million square kilometres. The grey expanse is dimpled with frozen lakes and a faint green glow of the Northern Lights haloes a long, spiny range.
Along for the ride are 176 passengers, 120-odd crew, three researchers in residence and 36 expedition guides, including Merkuratsuk. On the first morning, she lights a qulliq – a crescent-shaped lamp carved
Inuit guide Maria Merkuratsuk lights a qulliq as part of a welcome ceremony
from soapstone – as part of an Inuit welcoming ceremony. “There are only around 120,000 Inuit in the world… You have nine with you here right now – quite a concentration,” says Aleqa Hammond, who was elected as Greenland’s first female prime minister in 2013 and is here to help guide us through her homeland. “We might be few but trust me when I say, we are very mighty.”
Our itinerary includes fascinating talks on geology, ornithology, architecture, climate change and Arctic politics. By day, I’m constantly on the lookout for wildlife – bears, caribou, seabirds, seals and whales – while evenings play out over beers and sea shanties. The lively night skies keep me out on deck beneath the aurora (or in bed with my jacket on, ready to jump up for the next sighting).
In Kangerlussuatsiaq, which means “the rather big fjord” in Greenlandic, we spot the first iceberg of the voyage. It isn’t white but a glowing sapphire that only gets brighter and brighter as we approach it in a Zodiac. “You’re looking at some really old ice,” says our driver, Garnet Blake. “Hundreds of thousands of years or more.”
As if on cue, a thunderous sound like a sonic boom is followed by an avalanche of ice tumbling down from a skyscraper-high glacier on the horizon ahead. New icebergs, born right before our eyes.
The big draw for many passengers is the Torngat Mountains National Park, situated along the northern tip of Labrador in Canada. So remote are these mountains that only about 600 visitors travel to the area each year. It’s part of the self-governed Nunatsiavut region, given to Canada by the Inuit as a national park, where the land’s cultural and natural heritage remains in their hands.
There are no roads and no towns here. Despite centuries of Inuit habitation, the inuksuit (traditional stone landmarks) and tent rings left from seasonal hunts are the only traces of human presence. Getting here demands commitment – either a long boat journey like ours or a chartered flight – and every visit must be led by Inuit bear guards. They’re the only ones permitted to carry firearms in the park, a crucial last resort.
Before we anchor at Ekortiarsuk Fjord, a team scours the land for any moving specks of white, brown or black. When our first potential landing spot in the park is abandoned because of Merkuratsuk’s polar bear sighting, we instead view the animal at a safe and comfortable distance on a Zodiac and move to a different site across the bay for our land excursion.
We keep busy with a mix of structured activities and open exploration, from searching for ptarmigans and falcons with the resident ornithologist to delving into the unique local plant life with a botanist or simply combing the kelp-strewn beaches on our own, in silence.
I join an advanced hike that takes us to an elevation of about 240 metres, where I look out over a jagged sprawl of bare rock and winding fjords that seem to stretch to
Inuit guide, ex-prime minister Aleqa Hammond
Middle Earth. Our group, accompanied by bear guard Wayne Broomfield – an experienced guide from Makkovik, Labrador, who’s taken expeditions around both poles – has no map or agenda. We traverse rugged, treeless cliffs and plunging valleys, where the ground, dense with resilient flora, at times feels like a natural trampoline, buoying each step.
Broomfield paces steadily ahead, eyes scanning for wildlife and a safe way to navigate the terrain. He bends down briefly on a slope to pluck some clover-like mountain sorrel. “This is packed with vitamin C,” he says, popping it into his mouth. I follow suit, letting the tartness linger on my tongue. Apart from the odd forage, we’re instructed to leave everything here untouched. We spend four blissful days in the park trekking to hidden ridges, motoring through echoing gorges, skirting waterfalls that tumble from cliff faces and absorbing the untamed expanse.
At day’s end, the ship’s bar, stocked with pilsners and IPAs from a Newfoundland microbrewery, buzzes with the exchange of stories. One group saw a caribou and calf so close to their boat they could hear the hooves clapping against the pebbles. Another was greeted by a pod of dolphins. Yet another watched black bears roam the opposite shore while filling water bottles by the edge of Eclipse Lake before tracing fresh polar bear tracks.
On the outskirts of the park, Hebron was once a thriving community that became a ghost town after its residents were forcibly relocated in 1959 due to government policies rooted in economic and social assimilation. Sailing further south, the landscape is more vibrant, like an abstract canvas. Hues of rust and amber sweep across the low tundra, with grasses and hardy plants clinging to the rocky ground. I gaze at the shell of a former building, its grey, weathered frame melting like a Dalí painting.
Our last stop in Nunatsiavut is the administrative capital, Nain, a town of some 1200 people and the northernmost settlement in Labrador. We spend the morning at the local school, where two young Inuit girls perform throat songs, their chants rhythmically intertwining so seamlessly it’s hard to tell where one ends and the other begins.
I hike up to a clearing on a hill overlooking clusters of colourful wooden houses and the striking Illusuak Cultural Centre, which curves gracefully along the harbour like an extension of the waves. Yellow and green spruce stretch to the sky, the soft ground beneath covered in Labrador tea plants that release an earthy, herbal scent every time my boot presses down. I look out over the land to the boat in the distance. One of the new words that I’ve learnt springs to mind. Silakisuak. What a fine day.
“It’s like an
aquatic
Jurassic Park”
Thrill to the sight of killer whales on the hunt in the seas off Western Australia.
Some 70 kilometres off the quaint WA town of Bremer Bay, a mesmerising marine playground awaits. Reaching depths of about 5000 metres, Bremer Canyon is deeper than Australia’s highest peak, Mount Kosciuszko, is tall. The deep-sea gorge’s nutrient-rich water attracts an astounding array of
marine life, from countless sharks and giant squid that feed on southern bluefin tuna to sunfish and hundreds of orcas (killer whales).
“It’s the most amazing wildlife hotspot in Australian waters and I was just blown away when we got there,” recalls Paul Cross, who first travelled to the Indian Ocean submarine canyon in 2014 aiming to expand his whale-watching business in the town of Augusta.
“In a matter of seconds we saw our first orca then a pod was sprinting
past the side of the boat and people were yelling, ‘They’re on a hunt!’ It was like an aquatic Jurassic Park . That was 11 years ago but it’s still firmly entrenched in my memory.”
Within 12 months, Cross – the owner and operator of Naturaliste Charters (naturalistecharters.com.au) – was leading his own orca-spotting trips in between Western Australia’s humpback migration seasons.
Today, the business’s 23-metre catamaran, Alison Maree (named after his wife and business partner),
the crystal-blue water,” he says. “Nothing compares to the thrill of seeing a wild orca up close in its natural environment, especially when the sun is in the right spot and a rainbow forms around their spout as they exhale.”
On the popular all-day Killer Whale Bremer Bay Expedition, Cross uses the 90-minute voyage from the coast to describe the complex social dynamics of orca pods. That leaves five hours at Bremer Canyon to spot as much wildlife as possible. “We have marine biologists onboard to answer questions and a photographer who records the day’s events – including underwater footage – and can help guests with their camera settings.”
Passengers find the experience equally as captivating as Cross does. “You never know what you’re going to see,” he says. “But when you have an amazing trip you just want more.”
takes some 3500 passengers to Bremer Canyon between December and April each year. They regularly encounter sperm whales, striped dolphins, blue sharks, “super pods” of up to 400 long-finned pilot whales and seabirds, including wandering albatrosses.
But the undisputed stars of the show are the 300 or so orcas that form the largest-known congregation in the Southern Hemisphere.
“You can feel the excitement race through the boat when we see that first fin or a black-and-white eye patch in
One group of very enthusiastic regulars is set to clock up their 50th voyage with Naturaliste Charters. “We’ve had guests who have travelled all over the globe to see wildlife –including people who’ve taken 32 trips to Africa – and their feedback is that the Bremer Canyon trip was the highlight of their wildlife journeys around the globe.”
Cross tells of an encounter when an adult orca swam right up to a guest leaning over the side of the boat and rose about two metres out of the water. “It looked her straight in the eye,” he says. “As it slowly lowered back into the water, she just burst into tears.”
More magical wildlife moments across Australia
TASMANIA
The Maria Island Walk
On this car-free island where golden-haired wombats and endangered Tasmanian devils roam free, the four-day guided trek takes in 300-million-year-old fossil cliffs, stands of majestic blue gums and a UNESCO World Heritage-listed convict site. mariaislandwalk.com
VICTORIA
Echidna Walkabout Nature Tours
Echidna Walkabout’s multi-day conservation tours allow guests to search the forests of Victoria’s East Gippsland for sugar gliders, platypuses and echidnas or spot colourful parrots near Lake Mungo in south-west NSW. The highlight: taking part in research projects that help to protect these fragile environments. echidnawalkabout.com.au
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Lords Kakadu & Arnhemland Safaris
With a private camp in Kakadu, airboats that cruise effortlessly through crocodile- and buffalo-filled wetlands and access to the region’s most impressive rock art sites, Lords luxury private tours offer a backstage pass to the Top End. lords-safaris.com
THRILLING ME SOFTLY
Story by Kendall Hill
Like beauty, adventure is in the eye of the beholder. Wherever you sit on the thrillseeking scale, we’ve found eight new ways to (gently) test your limits.
For history buffs
When it comes to Australia’s World Heritage attractions, most of us are aware of the Sydney Opera House, the Great Barrier Reef and Ulur u-Kata Tjuta. But the giant wombats, koalas and echidnas – and even marsupial lions – of South Australia? Not so much. Naracoorte Caves National Park (naracoortecaves. sa.gov.au), near the Victorian border, is recognised by UNESCO as one of the world’s most important fossil sites. There are 28 caverns in total but only four can be explored, either on easy above-ground tours – the Roof Top Loop Walk is suitable for all ages and abilities – or more intrepid subterranean adventures. The park’s centrepiece is the Victoria Fossil Cave, which offers a glimpse into Australia’s pre-human history and a lesson in evolution thanks to the tens of thousands of Pleistocene-era fossils that have been discovered here. With a constant 17°C temperature, the caves are a year-round destination.
For keen riders
Djuwang Baring, “long track” in the local Dja Dja Wurrung language, is a new mountainbike park (djuwangbaring.com) in Victoria’s Central Highlands where you can set your own limits on 60 kilometres of trails catering to every ability level. The 70 separate segments traverse state forests, regional parks and plantations, with most rated beginner and intermediate. Only 13 per cent of the circuit is considered difficult or extremely difficult and about a third is suited to adaptive mountain biking for differently abled riders. The park is easily accessed from Creswick, a gold rush-era town that’s about a 20-minute drive north of Ballarat.
For aerial enthusiasts
The Majura Pines plantation, a 15-minute drive north of Parliament House in Canberra –and already a favourite haunt for mountain bikers and runners –has launched a network of 16 ziplines for ages three and up (the cute baby ziplines are just a metre high; treetopsadventure. com.au). The courses involve dozens of “aerial obstacles”, such as wobbly bridges and tightropes to test your skill and mettle. Everyone is harnessed, helmeted and trained before they tackle the courses, which are run by the experienced operators behind Tasmania’s longstanding Hollybank Park zipline, just outside Launceston.
For budding survival experts
In addition to being the survival consultant to Alone Australia, Army Reserve member Gordon Dedman teaches regular Aussies how to make it in their harsh environment at Bushcraft Survival Australia (bushcraft survivalaustralia.com.au). The courses range from hardcore (seven days) to a two-day junior/family option where he imparts bushcraft basics at an expedition-style camp on Sydney’s outskirts. Participants, including children aged 10 and up, learn how to build shelter, make fire, find drinkable water (and edible food), navigate and generally keep themselves safe until help arrives – skills that you can’t master on YouTube. “For a family, it’s a way of bonding,” explains Dedman, “but in the event of an emergency, kids have to be able to do the same things.”
For the culturally curious
Located just outside Alice Springs/Mparntwe, Simpsons Gap/Rungutjirpa is a sacred site where Benjamin Kenny, founder of 100% Finke River Culture & Adventure (@100frcaa), leads guided walks, sharing First Nations wisdom and stories that bring his Arrernte homelands to life. It’s an easygoing, hour-long circuit full of insights but, as Kenny says, “Simpsons Gap is just one part of the story.”
For a fuller understanding, he offers a five-day Journey Through the Dreamtime tour that follows Arrernte storylines, art and lore during the day and offers nights in comfortable Alice Springs hotels. “We show them the land and the meaning,” he says. “People get access to where no-one else can go.”
For active families
Rottnest Island/Wadjemup is Perth’s favourite playground – and not only for the quokkas. Discover its many charms on a day-long (seven-hour) bike ride with passionate local guide Laura the Explorer (lauratheexplorer.com.au). The family-friendly outing involves a 10-kilometre circuit with stops at salt lakes, dazzling beaches such as Parker Point and Henrietta Rocks, and the Wadjemup and Bathurst lighthouses. Plus, the itinerary allows time for swimming and snorkelling at local beauty spots (BYO towel) and includes lunch – with ice-creams – at Geordie Bay and a refreshing beverage at Hotel Rottnest. There are also ample opportunities for quokka selfies, of course.
Where wilderness meets luxury
From “big sky” stargazing to gourmet adventures, a NSW glamping retreat combines opulence with the great outdoors.
Offering an immersive nature experience that seamlessly blends comfort and adventure, Wilderluxe Lake Keepit heralds a fresh frontier in bush luxury.
Nestled by Lake Keepit –two-thirds the size of Sydney Harbour – the new glamping retreat is cushioned between Tamworth and Gunnedah, with the Great Dividing Range providing a quintessentially Australian backdrop.
Rooms with a view
It’s not until you’re soaking in a private outdoor tub under the stars that you truly understand
why they call this place “big sky country”. Each climate-controlled Star Tent – an indulgent oasis with a sense of complete seclusion – features an ensuite bathroom, king-sized bed and deck. While the celestial show is definitely a highlight, it’s the morning chorus of magpie warbles that best conveys the magic of this place.
Elevated dining
The emu shape formed by the dark spaces in the Milky Way has been used by the Kamilaroi people, Traditional Custodians of Lake Keepit, to navigate for millennia. It’s just one of the tales
Find out more and book your stay at wilderluxe.com.au
you’ll hear as Kamilaroi man and Aboriginal cultural tours operator Uncle Len Waters narrates a First Nations astronomy immersion over a gourmet feast shared with your fellow guests.
Immersive activities
Wilderluxe’s holiday philosophy means that you can select experiences to suit your mood. From the bucolic bliss of cheesemaking, cooking classes and farmhouse fine dining to fishing, kayaking and cycling, it’s a choose-your-ownadventure of nature-focused
fun. Keen to bump up the heart rate? Try aero-gliding for a bird’s-eye view of the Rainbow Serpent-shaped lake.
Play with purpose
Wilderluxe is an initiative of Reflections Holidays, one of Australia’s largest outdoor hospitality groups. As the only national holiday group with a social enterprise certification, it reinvests all profits back into the land and properties under its care. Over the next two years, Wilderluxe will open retreats in Lennox Head, Eden, Brunswick Heads and Lake Glenbawn.
For social climbers
Want to combine the best views of Brisbane/Meanjin with an adrenaline rush? Try the Story Bridge Adventure Climb (story bridgeadventureclimb.com.au). The city shines brightest at dawn and dusk, when these 90-minute tours capture the shifting light and sweeping outlook to the Glasshouse Mountains, Moreton Bay and the Scenic Rim. Walkers are attached securely to the 85-year-old steel structure during the kilometre-long aerial boardwalk. For daredevils and team-building enthusiasts, the Lean Out option lets you (and your colleagues) dangle 80 metres above the Brisbane River/Maiwar or there’s Walk The Plank, where you step onto a plank suspended between the highest girders.
2216158 2025-02-21T07:01:43+11:00
15 March – 13 July 2025
Featuring Kahlo’s personal belongings, clothing, make-up and art from the Museo Frida Kahlo for the first time in Australia. Bendigo International Collections
Book online prior to your visit: bendigoartgallery.com.au
On the east bank of the River Derwent, a short drive from Hobart, learn about local cuisine from a new perspective with Kitana Mansell’s Aboriginal food experience, Palawa Kipli (palawakipli.com). Her 60- to 90-minute bushtucker walk on the Aboriginal-owned lands at piyura kitina/Risdon Cove, fuses First Nations and contemporary history with stops to encounter snacks such as kunzea (a small flowering shrub), pigface and kangaroo apple. You’ll get to know the foods that have sustained palawa people for thousands of years and discover how they managed this natural pantry before European settlement.
Samuel Shelley
CANADA IS
C OLOUR
Birds Hill Provincial Park, Manitoba
Golden leaves crunch underfoot on the pavements of Toronto while country orchards heave with rosy apples.
In the north, polar bears seek out the first ice of the season and vivid auroras dance across endless skies.
Get ready to discover the legend of fall in Canada.
Churchill, Manitoba
Where to stay i n Ontario
1 Hotel Toronto, King West
Sleep in the heart of the lively King West district at a 112-room eco-friendly haven constructed with reclaimed materials.
The Westin Trillium House, Blue Mountain Village
This grand 228-room chalet-style resort with stone façades and timber beams is just steps from the hiking trails and shops of Blue Mountain Village.
Harbour
House,
Niagara-on-the-Lake
A nautical-inspired inn set near the riverfront, with fireplaces in each of the 31 rooms and suites.
Book via qantas.com/hotels
ONTARIO
Fly Qantas direct from Sydney to Vancouver, with connecting flights to Toronto
From waterfalls to out-of-the-way wineries, the region around Toronto comes alive with colour in autumn.
Taste the bounty
Canada’s largest city is at the top of its culinary game in September, when restaurants make the most of the season’s local produce. Sourdough with carrot butter is a crowd favourite at the innovative plant-focused fine-diner Ten (10restaurant.ca), where up to 10 guests can enjoy a tasting menu served at the Chef’s Counter. There’s also Alma (almatoronto.com), recently
recognised with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Chef/owner Anna Chen takes inspiration from her Hakka-Chinese upbringing in India, as well as French and Italian traditions, to produce surprising fusions such as scallion bao with stracciatella and parmesan tapioca fritters.
Head west on Highway 401 for 75 minutes, passing gentle hills and a patchwork of farmland, and you’ll arrive at the village of St Jacobs. Spot Mennonite horse-drawn buggies as you approach St Jacobs Farmers’ Market (stjacobsmarket.com), the largest of its kind in Canada. The sticky scent of wood-fired maple syrup fills the bright red barn, where stalls overflow with heirloom veggies and artisanal cheeses. Make sure to pick up an oversized pretzel or apple fritter to munch on as you browse.
Follow the trail
A two-hour drive north-west of Toronto brings you to the spot where the Niagara Escarpment, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, meets the sparkling Georgian Bay. Sample some of the region’s 18 delicious apple varieties along the Apple Pie Trail (applepietrail.ca), which weaves through orchards, cideries, eateries, markets and galleries. You can pluck ripe fruit at Farmer’s Pantry (788030 Grey County Road 13, Thornbury), sip handcrafted beverages at Thornbury Cider & Brew House (thornburycraft. com) and indulge in buttery, grandma-approved pies at Goldsmith’s Orchard Market (goldsmithsmarket.com).
See a different Niagara
The region surrounding Niagara Falls, an 80-minute drive south of Toronto, is home
to more than 100 wineries, which produce full-bodied chardonnay, riesling and cabernet franc. Base yourself in the postcard-perfect historic town of Niagara-onthe-Lake and spend a blissful day cycling between some of Canada’s oldest vineyards on a 20-kilometre tour with Grape Escape Wine Tours (tourniagarawineries.com).
Or head straight to Peller Estates (peller.com), where the guided vineyard-to-cellar tour includes a tasting session in the underground barrel room. The tour ends at the igloo-like ice lounge, where you can sample Icewine, a dessert drop made from grapes that are left to freeze on the vine.
Get close to nature
Carved deep into the Niagara Gorge, the trails of Niagara
Glen traverse prehistoric rock formations fringed by old-growth Carolinian forest. Take the new self-guided audio tour, Rekindling All Our Relations (niagaraparks.com), to hear stories rooted in Indigenous wisdom as you wander the scenic tracks.
Making your way back to Toronto, visit Evergreen Brick Works (evergreen.ca/evergreenbrick-works) just outside the city. The factory-turned-sustainablepublic-space hosts markets and cultural events and houses thriving community gardens. From there, follow the hiking paths that meander through the surrounding wetlands and forests for stunning views of the city skyline framed by trees in all shades of gold.
Catch a game (or three) Toronto’s passion for sport peaks in late September and
October, when you have the rare chance to experience three of the “Big Four” major leagues – baseball, hockey and basketball. Downtown at the Rogers Centre (mlb.com), the aroma of popcorn wafts as local fans sing Take Me Out to the Ball Game, cold beers in hand, and cheer their beloved Toronto Blue Jays to baseball playoff glory.
A short walk away, Scotiabank Arena (scotiabankarena.com) hums with anticipation as the Toronto Maple Leafs ice hockey team takes to the rink. Come on another day and the same arena will have been transformed to host the National Basketball Association’s Toronto Raptors. These games are about so much more than sport in Toronto – they’re akin to high-energy dance parties, with DJs spinning tracks and celebrity sightings a distinct possibility.
Pick up a paddle Algonquin Provincial Park, a three-hour drive north of the city, is a tapestry of forests and more than 1500 lakes. Rent a canoe from Algonquin Outfitters (algonquinoutfitters. com) and paddle glassy Lake Opeongo, the park’s largest. Keep an eye out for moose grazing at the water’s edge and an ear out for distant howls – about 35 packs of eastern wolves live in the park.
In the city of Peterborough, a 1.5-hour drive from Toronto, The Canadian Canoe Museum (canoemuseum.ca) conveys stories of Indigenous people and the waterways that shaped the nation. Take a stroll through this impressive new building to learn about the complex engineering and craftsmanship that goes into these boats then take a rental canoe or kayak out for a hands-on experience.
Toronto to Churchill via Winnipeg
City lights and paved streets give way to twinkling stars and tundra trails. Far-north Manitoba is polar bear and Northern Lights territory.
Catch the migration
The subarctic town of Churchill is inaccessible by road so you’ll first spot the dramatic snow forest and stark tundra from the window of a plane or train. In October and November, when the first frost grips the air, polar bears begin their migration to the icy waters of Hudson Bay. Drawn by the promise of earlyforming sea ice, which is useful for seal hunting, they congregate in impressive numbers, rendering the town the “polar bear capital of the world”.
Frontiers North Adventures (frontiersnorth.com) will show you the sights in an electric Tundra Buggy, a 4.2-metre-tall eco-vehicle that’s designed to navigate the challenging terrain with ease. From elevated viewing decks, you’ll see polar bears amble across the ice – if you’re lucky, you might get close enough to hear the crunch of their paws and see their breath in the chilly air. At night, the buggies park endto-end, transforming into a mobile hotel with sleeping berths, a living area and dining room. Take a seat by one of the windows to watch the Northern Lights paint the sky.
If observing polar bears on foot (from a distance) is more your style, take a look at Churchill Wild’s (churchillwild.com) multiday safaris, which will have you bunkering down at remote ecostays such as Seal River Heritage Lodge on the coast of Hudson Bay. Trekking the shoreline on
MANITOBA
a walking safari with seasoned guides, you might lock eyes with a curious polar bear or catch sight of an elusive wolverine. Evenings bring tundra-inspired dishes such as wild rice casserole, almond-crusted trout and Arctic cranberry cake with butter sauce.
Connect with local wisdom
For centuries, the Sayisi Dene First Nation people travelled with caribou herds around Northern Manitoba in tune with the rhythm of nature. Florence Hamilton, a proud Sayisi Dene woman and founder of Dene Routes (dene routes.ca), is an artisan and storyteller who’s dedicated to preserving her culture. In her caribou hair-tufting workshops, students practise the intricate craft that’s been passed down through generations of Hamilton’s family, as she weaves in stories of survival and the traditions that sustain her people.
Ride with spirited huskies
Dave Daley, the founder of Wapusk Adventures (wapusk adventures.com), is a musher whose life revolves around his team of sled dogs. The huskies greet visitors with bright eyes and wagging tails, eager to lead the way on a sledding tour.
Before the group sets off, Daley shares captivating stories of the Métis people (an Indigenous group that does not identify as First Nations or Inuit) and the bond between musher and dog. After that, you’ll sit atop a specially designed sled or car (depending on the snowfall) as the huskies charge through the boreal forest.
Become an aurora expert
Positioned in one of the world’s most active aurora borealis zones, the town of Churchill offers a front-row seat to the incredible natural phenomenon – which can be seen in these parts up to 300
nights a year. At the Churchill Northern Studies Centre (churchill science.ca), researchers who have devoted their lives to understanding the skies share their knowledge, explaining the science and mythology of the night-time spectacle.
Lazy Bear Expeditions’ Ultimate Northern Lights Solar Science Adventure (lazybear lodge.com) brings you even closer to the cosmos with a multi-day journey. Solar scientists trek with visitors to prime viewing spots, including an exclusive location on Hudson Bay’s rugged shores, where they explain the forces behind an aurora. Plus, there’s a dog-mushing excursion, a trip on the Arctic Crawler tundra vehicle, a shipwreck viewing and Indigenous experiences, including stories by the bonfire, local foods and talks about the cultural significance of the Northern Lights.
find your refresh
Touring Special
On tour
These exhilarating guided journeys are all about exploration, discovery and immersion.
Story by Alexandra Carlton
Take in the Kimberley by sea and air
The Exquisite Kimberley Adventure with Outback Spirit Tours (outbackspirit tours.com.au) captures this unique part of north-western Australia in all its glory, from ancient Aboriginal artworks to burnt-orange Tetris rock formations and abundant wildlife. “My highlight is flying over the Buccaneer Archipelago and seeing the magnificent colours of the coastline,” says driver and guide Sara Skipworth. “Dining at Cygnet Bay and those views over the ocean comes a close second.” Another drawcard is the two nights at remote El Questro Wilderness Park. Coming in 2026 is an expanded Horizontal Falls seaplane journey that includes stopping at the Mother of Pearl Church on the Dampier Peninsula (right) and visiting a local Aboriginal community.
Jarrad Seng
Have a musical Christmas in Europe
While the fairytale Christmas markets that pop up across Europe attract millions of visitors every year, the continent’s rich calendar of festive musical performances is just as enchanting as the snowy streets and spiced wine. The 14-day Christmas & New Year in Europe experience from Hayllar Music Tours (hayllarmusictours.com) includes eight operatic and classical music concerts in Berlin, Prague and
Vienna, with in-depth talks by educator and conductor Graham Abbott. Along with premium seats at some of the world’s great venues – the Vienna State Opera and the Berlin State Opera (above) to name two – the expedition includes private viewings of landmarks, such as the Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna, and a stay at Prague’s Aria Hotel, where the guestrooms are decorated in homage to different musical styles or composers.
Marcus Ebener
Join a festival on Japan’s art islands
The Setouchi Triennale only takes place every three years so this October is your last chance to experience the contemporary art festival before 2028. Limelight Art Tours (limelight-artstravel.com.au) leads the 11-day, smallgroup excursion Japan’s Art Islands and the Setouchi Triennale across 12 islands and coastal areas in the Seto Inland Sea, taking in works from acclaimed creatives, such as Yayoi Kusama and Olafur Eliasson. Guests will catch the big-ticket attractions but tour leader Dr Nick Gordon will make sure that the less-visited isles – like Shikoku, home to the former gardens of sculptor Isamu Noguchi – are also on the itinerary.
Learn how to build a yurt in the ’Stans
Today’s bucket lists are inspired by a new kind of wanderlust, one that takes in regions that are only starting to open up to modern travellers. The five ’Stans – Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan (above) and Kazakhstan – are exhilarating examples, each filled with Silk Road treasures, warm hospitality and stunning architecture. The 29-day 5-Stans adventure is limited to just 20 participants, led by Bunnik founder Marion Bunnik (bunniktours. com.au), and spans all five countries, woven together with scenic road trips and stops in imposing cities and rural villages. Among the highlights is calling in at a family home in the Kyrgyzstan village of Kyzyl-Tuu, where guests can take part in a yurt-building workshop and discover the nomadic traditions of the area.
Discover two ecosystems on one epic voyage
The untouched beauty of the Galápagos Islands has to be seen to be believed. The archipelago’s menagerie of fantastical creatures – underwater iguanas, giant tortoises, flamingos, sea lions (left) –are like characters from a children’s book. Equally incredible is the 36-day Antarctic Voyage with South America and Galápagos Islands trip from APT Touring (aptouring.com), which begins in the Galápagos before taking in other locations, including Machu Picchu and Buenos Aires. As a crescendo, guests will board luxury ship Seabourn Venture and head to another sublime wilderness – the vast ice floes and icebergs of Antarctica.
Drive the Italian coast in a supercar
Few things could rev a motoring fan’s engine more than cruising along the coastal roads of southern Italy in a high-performance luxury car. That’s the promise of the once-in-a-lifetime From the Amalfi Coast To Puglia self-drive adventure from Captain’s Choice (captainschoice.com.au). Join a group of no more than 20 and pick up your Ferrari, Maserati or Lamborghini in
Naples before tracing the famous cliffs of the Amalfi Coast, crossing east to Puglia (pictured) and heading round to Gallipoli. An expert crew, including rally car champion Lorenzo Granai and racing driver Fabio Mancini will be your convoy copilots, ensuring that each car is cleaned and refueled every evening. Luxury isn’t confined to the vehicles; you’ll get to eat at fine-diners – Michelinstarred Osteria Giá Sotto l’Arco in Puglia is a dream – and sample local produce along the way.
Francesco Riccardo Iacomino
Strings in the Scenic Rim
Enjoy world-class performances and mingle with the musicians at The Art of the String Quartet weekend in Queensland.
Chamber music takes on a whole new dimension when it’s set against spectacular open-air views. The vast Scenic Rim bushland, a one-hour drive west of Brisbane, forms the backdrop for Hayllar Music Tours’ The Art of the String Quartet event, playing out at luxury rural retreat Spicers Hidden Vale this August. As ears follow the music, eyes will be drawn to the coils of smoke rising from the open-air fireplace outside the venue as a team of chefs prepares a post-performance feast. Impromptu birdsong from the native Albert’s lyrebird is likely to complete the scene.
Four talented string musicians will deliver five thrilling performances across three days. Violinists Andrew Haveron and Lerida Delbridge, violist
Justin Williams and cellist TimoVeikko Valve will play some of the most iconic pieces ever written. The tour’s artistic director, renowned conductor and music educator Graham Abbott, will present several talks on the history of the string quartet, encouraging a deeper understanding and heightened appreciation of the centuries-old form.
The natural intimacy of the quartet is amplified in this idyllic setting, as the guest list is limited to just 35 classical music-lovers. You’ll be invited to step into the musicians’ inner circle, sharing memorable conversations over a glass of wine or gourmet meal. The relaxed hospitality provided by Spicers Hidden Vale lends itself to this easy camaraderie.
The property is centred around a grand homestead, where the chefs helming the retreat’s award-winning Homage Restaurant take a produceled approach to fine dining, using vegetables, fruits and herbs freshly picked from the retreat’s own kitchen gardens. Emu sourced from the neighbouring town of Marburg is served as a tartare with fermented potato crisps, while locally grown mushrooms complement just-caught Coral Coast barramundi.
The Art of the String Quartet program also includes welcome drinks and canapés on the first evening, a wine and cheese tasting, and an excursion through scenic countryside to enjoy a three-course lunch. Music, naturally, plays the starring role.
Hayllar Music Tours’ The Art of the String Quartet weekend runs from 14 to 17 August in Grandchester, Queensland, and includes luxury accommodation at Spicers Hidden Vale and return travel from Brisbane. Visit hayllarmusictours.com for details and bookings.
Carve your own gemstone on a tour of Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka was known as Ratna-Dweepa or “Gem Island” thanks to its bountiful and quality gemstones, particularly blue sapphires. In the Central Highlands town of Kandy (above) on Abercrombie & Kent’s (A&K; abercrombiekent.com)
10-day Splendours of the Spice Island tour, you’ll have a glimpse into the gem industry at a local factory. “You can admire how the shine of a stone is brought out through expert cutting and even have the opportunity to shape and polish your own into a piece of jewellery,” says A&K Sri Lanka’s Thilini Mahanama. The country’s culinary and cultural heritage is also explored, with a tea tasting in Colombo and a visit to the cinnamon plantations of Galle. As always with A&K, the accommodation is exceptional, including the 26-room Jetwing Kandy Gallery and the refined Amangalla in Galle.
Connect with trailblazers on a women-only trip in Nepal
Intrepid (intrepidtravel.com) runs several women-only tours in an effort to break down barriers and champion women who are advocating for themselves and their peers. The 13-day Nepal: Women’s Expedition begins and ends in the capital, Kathmandu, and introduces travellers to a diverse cast of characters, from Buddhist nuns to women using cooking to make life easier in Tibetan refugee camps. There’s also challenging but rewarding hiking in the Annapurna mountains, a chance to see rhinos and deer, and go river canoeing on an overnight stay at a jungle lodge in Chitwan National Park.
Stefan Tomić. Anna Mardo
Small Groups
All Considered Freedom to Explore
Jewels of Dalmatia 22 days from $13,995*
The only thing we love more than travel, is doing it together. From basking in the sundrenched Adriatic coastline to cruising down a Slovenian river, wine in hand. We’ve put everything you’ve ever wanted to see and do (plus a few hidden gems) into one all-things-considered small group tour. Let’s go!
Slovenia, Lake
Bled by
Paul McInerney
IWC Ingenieur. Form und Technik.
Ingenieur Automatic 42, Ref. 3389
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Alex Bray
Strength and resilience underscore this artist’s delicate porcelain works.
I’m Done With All That (2024; above) and The Fat Lady Has Not Yet Sung (2024; opposite) by Alex Bray
Story by Bek Day
Ceramicist Alex Bray spent the first few decades of her working life as a lawyer before making a 180-degree career change and enrolling at the National Art School, aged 53. Completing her degree in fine art proved to the burgeoning artist that she was “no longer the worst in the room” and her graduation show captured the attention of King Street Gallery on William in inner-city Sydney. It’s there that she began exhibiting her ethereal porcelain creations that are like nothing else.
“I find it very pleasing,” she says of the uniqueness of her work. “When I started I thought, ‘Oh, God, these aren’t very fashionable’ but I could only ever make what I could make.”
Exploring the tension between decay and rebirth, Bray’s sculptures – intricate, glossy and feminine – started off with a slightly dystopian feel before a cancer diagnosis reshaped how the artist looked at the world. “I’ve got this giant scar around my stomach,” she says of the surgery that sparked her breakthrough series, Scar. “At first, I’d be in the changing rooms after swimming, huddled and embarrassed. But then I thought, ‘I’m proud of this. It means I’m not dead!” I started making works to celebrate it.”
That’s not Bray’s only nod to the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi (the concept of there being beauty in imperfection and the inherent transience of things). “Porcelain is not easy to work with but I refuse to use anything else. It looks incredibly thin and fragile but isn’t as breakable as it appears. My work is fired three times and that process makes it a lot more resilient than it looks. I like that metaphor.”
Exhibited at: King Street Gallery on William, Sydney
Studied: Bachelor of Fine Art, National Art School, Sydney
Awards: National Art School Sabbia Gallery Exhibition Award, 2023; National Association for the Visual Arts Ignition Prize, 2023
Breakthrough moment: Selling almost all of her pieces at the National Art School Grad Show in 2023
Nordic Pavilion, Venice
Sydney architect Ben Peake admires how this space adapts to the installations it hosts.
As told to Rachel
Lees
The Nordic Pavilion is the national pavilion for Norway, Finland and Sweden. There was a design competition in 1958 and each of those countries participated but Norwegian architect Sverre Fehn won the commission. The pavilion opened in 1962 and is used for the Venice Art Biennale one year and the Architecture Biennale the following year. I studied the building at university so my initial experience of it was through photographs and drawings. It’s a piece of architecture that looks simple but has a real drama to it.
One of the key design intents was to recreate the essence of Nordic light. But how do you soften Italian summer sunlight? Fehn designed a large open-plan space and built a striking roof structure around some existing trees. The roof comprises two alternating layers of slender concrete beams: one layer runs north to south, the other runs east to west and one sits on top of the other. This two-metre-deep crisscross roof structure filters and bounces the light so it lands evenly over the floor and has a softness to it.
Two mates and I visited in 2015 on our way to a study tour in Berlin. One of those friends is Venetian so we stayed with his mum in a village about 20 minutes from the city. We’d spent the afternoon drinking spritz and we were very chatty but as soon
as we walked into the pavilion, we became speechless. It has a library- or church-like quality. When that soft light washes over you, it feels like you’re inside and outside at the same time. And because it’s this big, quiet space, it has a calming effect and everyone moderates their behaviour.
While some pavilions are empty boxes, Nordic Pavilion is an active player. It’s open-plan, notwithstanding the trees, so it’s very flexible. When I went back there for the Architecture Biennale in 2023, it had a First Nations installation filled with handmade objects, fabrics and timber pieces. That contrast between such a traditional way of living and the contemporary Modernist structure provided a real juxtaposition between the two elements. So while the pavilion can facilitate different curators, artists and installations, they also change how you experience the space.
A principal at Carter Williamson (carterwilliamson.com), Ben Peake won the National Emerging Architect Prize in 2023. He is a diversity advocate and has served on the Australian Institute of Architects’ national committee for gender equity and NSW gender equity team.
The salon at Le Mas de Chabran, France
An elegant private retreat that melds history, cultural connections and contemporary design.
Story by Kendall Hill
Sunlight filtered through lush gardens illuminates the salon of the eight-room Le Mas de Chabran (masdechabran.com) in the foothills of Provence, just north of Arles. The timeless, slightly austere architecture of vaulted ceilings and limestone floors, quarried from nearby Fontvieille, hints at the building’s past as an olive oil factory. Though this
18th-century space was once used to store stone basins filled with fruit and reservoirs of pressed oil, today’s visitors find a buttery leather Poliform sofa and armchairs arranged around an antique coffee table from India, paying homage to centuries-old trade links. On the low bench against the far wall, a sculpture of a bull nods to the Camargue cowboy culture of the south of France.
Guests at the exclusive-use villa (staffed with a manager, housekeeper,
concierge and pool attendant) gather here for coffee or tea in the soft glow of morning, for a cool respite away from the Provençal sun and for the obligatory evening apéro.
The striking artwork that dominates the salon is by Spanish artist Lídia Masllorens. While its subject is anonymous, the portrait has become a symbol of the property’s identity thanks to what villa manager Ven Atilova calls “the profound emotion it conveys”.
Great outdoors
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2. Chopard L.U.C. GMT One Black 42-millimetre automatic titanium watch / $21,400 / chopard.com
3. Polo Ralph Lauren shirt / $219 / ralphlauren.com.au
4. R.M. Williams belt / $149 / rmwilliams.com.au
5. Bassike jeans / $495 / bassike.com
6. (Clockwise from far left) Carl Friedrik backpack / $1200 / carlfriedrik.com BxmBxm custom hat / $990 / bxmbxm.com Haulier knit / $795 / haulier. international Leica SL3 60 megapixel, full-frame camera body / $11,890 / and Summicron-SL 50-millimetre f/2 lens / $3490 / both from leica-store.com.au
6. (Clockwise from top left) Oroton belt / $149 / oroton.com Saben bag / $505 / saben.com.au The Upside cardigan / $170 / theupside.com.au Weekend
Max Mara top (under cardigan) / $685 / au.maxmara.com
Photography
Plume de Chanel diamond earrings
Light as air, these precious gems represent a delicate power play.
Story by Natasha Inchley
It was one of fashion’s ultimate power moves, as well as an audacious debut, when, in 1910, then little-known designer Gabrielle Chanel presented her very first creation to the press – an oversized hat pinned with a single white feather. This striking piece captured not only the spirit of modernity but also a sense of understated elegance that would go on to define her style. The feather would become one of the maison’s most enduring motifs.
Fast forward to today and Plume de Chanel has become a signature line
in the brand’s Fine Jewellery collections, reimagined over the years with a focus on delicate and ethereal pieces that seemingly push the idea of freedom and movement forward.
A case in point are these earrings, which are crafted in 18-carat white-gold, a marvel of precision, refinement and supreme craftsmanship. Perhaps what’s most remarkable is the play of light dancing across the diamonds, revealing layers of intricacy and an energy, as if each jewel is floating on a gentle breeze.
Très romantique.
Chanel Plume de Chanel 18-carat whitegold and diamond earrings / $47,150 / 1300 242 635
Gabriella Pereira
The designer behind leading label Beare Park discusses the superiority of New York burgers, late-night jazz bars and the perfect carry-on.
Interview by Bek Day
Why New York City? It’s Beare Park’s most shipped-to destination so I’m there showcasing for international buyers about four times a year. What do you love about it? There’s a real passion and curiosity. Recently, we did a fashion shoot in Chelsea and people stopped to watch with genuine enthusiasm. You must know the top places to eat. I love King restaurant in SoHo (below; kingrestaurant.nyc). It’s run by two female chefs who met at River Café in London. Also I can’t go past a New York burger. I don’t know how they do it but they’re the best in the world. The one at Café Chelsea (hotel chelsea.com) is incredible. Where to for drinks? The Silver Lining Lounge (@silverlininglounge), a jazz bar on the Lower East Side, for late-night drinks and party vibes. And to stay? The Hotel Chelsea (far left; qantas.com/hotels/ thehotelchelsea). It’s understated, has amazing history, a great restaurant and the lobby bar does a beautiful Martini. Are you a pre-packer or lastminute? Last-minute. I inherited it from my dad, who used to go on a lot of overseas trips – the taxi outside was his cue to begin throwing things in a suitcase! What do you take onboard? My Rimowa Cabin carry-on (left; rimowa. com). It has a front sleeve that lets you access your laptop easily. What’s by your side in the air? Emma Lewisham Supernatural Sleeping Mask (above; emmalewisham.com.au) for long-haul flights. If you could pack only one pair of shoes… My tasseled leather loafers from The Row (far left; mytheresa.com). Do you follow an itinerary? I schedule work meetings then leave time for inspiration. Our tailored shorts suit came from the most chic woman I’d ever seen, who was walking on the Upper East Side and had on a chocolate-brown jacket and matching shorts with kneehigh boots. Is there an app you rely on when you’re away? Timeshifter (timeshifter. com) sends you tips to help reduce jet lag and adjust to a new circadian rhythm. It’s changed my life.
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Rhoda Roberts
curator, Parrtjima Festival
THE BUSINESS
AO,
AI
Is AI the end of humanity or the start of a promising new era of business efficiency with humans at the core? These companies fall squarely on the side of the latter.
Story by Jane Nicholls
for all
Making AI your 24/7 instant assistant
Professional services firm EY takes AI so seriously that its “power-users” – the top 12 per cent of AI fans in its workforce – share tips on prompts for generative AI to help encourage their colleagues to experiment with the technology. “We hashtag it #PassthePrompt on our internal social media,” says Katherine Boiciuc, EY Oceania’s chief technology and innovation officer. “We want to make it culturally cool to share and create prompts.”
AI is not optional at EY – training to use the AI companion Microsoft Copilot is mandatory and EY’s careerdevelopment program offers further AI education all the way up to a masters via the EY Tech MBA by Hult. “Applied AI is the number-one skill set that clients and employees are asking for, taking outof-the-box AI technology and applying it to specific-use cases to create value.”
EY closely tracks how its staff are using AI at work. “It reduces time spent on administrative and manual tasks,” says Boiciuc. “Nearly one in two of our people now use AI at least once a day and 72 per cent say it has a positive impact on their day-to-day roles. We estimate each user has saved about 30 minutes a week since the introduction of AI, which we expect to increase as more people embed it into their workflow.”
Which brings us back to the art of the prompt, the input that is key to unlocking GenAI’s large language models (LLMs) that the world first understood when ChatGPT publicly launched at the end of 2022. Boiciuc has written “mega-prompts” in Microsoft Copilot – powered by LLMs – as well as the firm’s private EY.ai platform. A mega-prompt is the next level of an AI prompt, essentially a framework of instructions for the AI system to produce specific outcomes or information, which users can save to make repeatable. Boiciuc is definitely a power-user, starting her day by putting AI to work before she’s even in the office.
“The prompt achieves six things: I ask it to plan my day and give me
a summary of the day ahead; to scan all the technology news and make it into a table that is easy to ingest; to prepare a summary of all the priority emails in my inbox; to make an assessment of the order of priority and draft preliminary responses; to review all the Teams messages I’ve been tagged in and create a table with a prioritised list and draft responses; and to pull any actions forward from the previous day that were not achieved into a to-do list for today.”
After Boiciuc launches her daily mega-prompt, the view of all the things she’s asked the AI assistant to do is delivered “about two minutes later”. At the close of the day, she clicks her end-of-play prompt. “I ask it to review my inbox and my Teams messages and
make sure there’s nothing urgent that should be done before I log off. It’s like a quality check so I can relax and step away from devices for a period of time and be with my family.” Boiciuc has her AI assistant deliver the results by text, although some colleagues choose to receive their response via AI voice. “I’m not there yet – I like to read it!”
In February, EY and Microsoft launched the AI Skills Passport (AISP), available in multiple countries for free. “It’s designed for anyone over the age of 16 who’s looking to enter the workforce or to have a career pivot,” she says. “It’s 10 hours of self-guided online training and a great way for SMEs and not-forprofits, who might be struggling with the investment to participate in the AI economy, to upskill their workforce.”
Pairing problems with AI solutions
“AI is the future for Australia and everyone needs to be ready to work with AI software tools or AI hardware, such as robotics,” says Distinguished Professor Jie Lu, director of the Australian Artificial Intelligence Institute (AAII) at the University of Technology Sydney (UTS). “You need to know how to collaborate with this technology because AI tools will be your team members in a few years, including for SMEs.”
Lu says AAII is the largest and top-ranked AI hub in Australia, with 34 staff and more than 200 PhD students working on theoretical research and AI applications for industry. Businesses come to AAII to address various issues, such as what to do when their customer churn is ticking upwards.
“They spend a lot of money on customer retention so we build AI models that generate early predictions over which customers are going to leave, in time for them to take action.”
AAII has worked on more than 100 industry projects, including building a real-time prediction model of carriage congestion for Sydney Trains and using machine learning and drones to help SharkSpotter patrol beaches. Lu’s team also collaborated with a startup to create machine-learning models that improve the accuracy of gene-disease association prediction to support healthcare. They are examples of problem-solving applications that can benefit bottom lines, enhance customer satisfaction, improve medical outcomes, elevate safety and help protect the environment.
Offering a side-serve of AI at the drive-through
Australian quick-service food company
Oliver’s has 15 restaurants stretching the east coast, from Maryborough in Queensland to Officer in Victoria, in prime positions for road trippers. Founded in 2003, its selling points include healthier fast food, a connection to farmers and organic coffee. Late last year the chain debuted a cutting-edge digital element to its wholesome line-up. Introducing Ollie, which the company claims is Australia’s first AI drive-through assistant. Oliver’s offers detailed nutrition information for all its menu items and
has customers for whom that may be a medical necessity. One of the attractions of a digital assistant is its ability to share information on ingredients, kilojoules and cooking methods with 100 per cent accuracy.
“Ollie is always going to be there to assist rather than replace our team members,” says Oliver’s CEO Natalie Sharpe. “It relieves the pressure on our teams – they can focus on preparing high-quality food and giving a really good customer experience at the collection point.”
Oliver’s partnered with British Conversational Voice AI developer Sodaclick and the whole project took about a year, with five months of intense
hands-on development, says Sharpe. “Ollie was trained on the data behind the Oliver’s menu and integrated with Prepit,” says Sharpe, who has a degree in nutrition and dietetics and is also co-founder of Prepit, software that helps manage food production.
“A key requirement was that Ollie must have a friendly personality with an Australian accent so he doesn’t sound robotic,” says Sharpe, who adds that the company is also developing a female counterpart, Olivia. The other advantage of digital AI servers is that they never forget the scripted upsell: “Would you
like to make that a meal deal? How about a muffin with that?”
Since September last year, Ollie has been hard at work – on probation – in the southbound Oliver’s on the Hume Highway at Pheasants Nest, NSW, about 100 kilometres south-west of Sydney. Customers have the choice to bypass Ollie for a human in a headset who is always on hand but have mostly embraced the new team member.
“Some customers have special dietary needs and they have a lot of detailed questions – it’s important that we get that information right,” says
Sharpe. “We do a lot of intense staff training on that but we also have lots of casual workers doing a shift or two a week so it can be challenging for everyone to know every ingredient or allergen on the menu. Ollie is a single source of truth with accurate, real-time information.”
Want to know how much protein is in the beef burger or if there’s garlic in the Moroccan vegetable bowl? Ollie can tell you almost instantly. It’s a prime example of how AI can help your people deal with the tricky stuff and focus on becoming expert at the fun stuff.
2025-02-21T06:59:25+11:00
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Training GenAI on specialist data
Technical data is a precious and often proprietary commodity that can be difficult to navigate. That’s why Australian design, engineering and advisory firm Aurecon created its GenAI assistant, Recall, collecting more than 600,000 pages of its own PDF, XLS, DOC and PPT documents and making them searchable via natural-language questions.
“All of our company’s institutional knowledge sits behind Recall,” says Dave Mackenzie, Aurecon’s group director of digital and AI. Aurecon has expertise across infrastructure, energy, resources and water. “Before Recall, to find specific technical knowledge I would search our internal systems for a document, read the document, find the passage I was looking for and then go and do my task. With natural language this process has shifted to asking Recall a question and getting the answer in seconds. We’re engineers so we have a culture of verification – all the sources are cited and we can make sure it’s aligned.”
Mackenzie says it only took “a month or two to build the first version of Recall” in late 2023. It was officially launched to the whole company shortly after. “It’s very intuitive – people log in and start playing with it and get it pretty quickly. We have added training around understanding the output and how to verify it – we always want to keep a human
in the loop.” A pre-Recall technical information search took Aurecon team members an average of 14 to 18 minutes; now they receive it in less than 30 seconds.
After 12 months, Mackenzie and his team found that more than 301,000 questions had been asked of Recall, with 26 per cent deeply technical questions, 25 per cent questions around efficiency and 23 per cent about skills development. “Recall is saving people quite a lot of time and transforming how they access knowledge and information. We measure the time impact very conservatively and we believe we’ve chalked up about 18,000 hours of saved time since rolling out the system.”
The potential is still unfolding. “Our people can log into Recall and build their own custom apps inside it,” says Mackenzie. “They can tailor data specifically to a problem or project.”
Last year, Aurecon partnered with American AI startup Nomic to add its platform Atlas, designed to facilitate explainable and accessible AI systems from rows of messy text or image data. “At first we had about 50 users and now we have 800 users across the business using Atlas to create very complex, data-rich maps with all their project information, which can be added to their custom Recall apps,” says Mackenzie. “We’ve seen a wide range of people rapidly maturing their understanding of these tools and adopting AI to augment how they work. That’s been super-exciting.”
Taking care of small business
“While larger-scale firms are incorporating and benefiting from AI, smaller businesses do not have the same access to expertise,” says Dr Brett Szmajda, acting director of the federal government’s National Artificial Intelligence Centre (NAIC).
“AI can be a great help for small business – it can help boost productivity immediately with many common jobs,” he adds.
“It can streamline tracking of expenses, draw hidden insights from client data or write creative and engaging marketing messages.”
NAIC tracks AI adoption and sentiment among Australian SMEs and its latest findings show that while 35 per cent are already adopting AI, 23 per cent are not aware of how to use it and a troubling 42 per cent are not planning to adopt it. The report found the highest uptake of AI – 45 per cent – is in the health and education and manufacturing sectors, and the lowest – six per cent – in agriculture, forestry and fishing.
“To help small businesses, the government has sponsored AI fundamentals courses and created four specialised AI Adopt Centres that can help with free one-on-one guidance.”
Independence in the information technology industry is rare, and conflict of interest and product bias dominates advice.
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Lisa Annese
Determined to change the status quo, the new CEO of Chief Executive Women is a “tempered radical” who never loses hope.
Interview by Kirsten Galliott Illustration by Marc Némorin
Current role CEO, Chief Executive Women
Tenure Three months
Previous roles CEO, Diversity Council Australia; projects and development director, Diversity Council Australia; diversity manager, Corrs Chambers Westgarth; senior manager, Equal Opportunity for Women in the Workplace Agency
How do you define good leadership?
Good leadership starts with creating, motivating and inspiring a high-performing team. Fundamentally, it begins with people and your ability to harness the talent that’s available to you in the workforce. If you can do that, you can meet challenges much more easily and be more productive. When there are people problems in an organisation, they derail everything.
What are your immediate priorities at Chief Executive Women (CEW)?
Getting the organisation functioning optimally. To deliver on our mission, how do we do things? How do we build a cohesive
team environment? How do we manage risk? How do we work with our members? My immediate priority is to get us in perfect working order so that we can be as strategic as possible and take the organisation to the next place.
The remit of CEW is to advance women’s leadership. But 91 per cent of CEO roles are still held by men and last year, CEW’s senior executive census found an increasing number of companies don’t even have a pipeline of female CEO talent. Where do you find the hope?
If you work in the social change space, you’re a natural optimist. I always have a belief that we can improve our world. One of the best things I’ve done since I started was to reach out to all the founders. CEW started in 1985 and the Sex Discrimination Act only became a thing in 1984 so these women built their careers during an era where it was legal to sexually harass women at work and there was no recourse. They were renegades and they were resilient. Many of them are retired now but their spirit is as ambitious as ever. When I listen to them, I can cast my imagination back to what Australia was like then. I have tremendous hope for the future because there’s been so much positive change. We like to reflect on all the things we still have to do but it’s good to take stock of where we’ve come from.
There seems to be a growing backlash against diversity. Is that right? Do you see it as a backlash?
The more we say there’s backlash, there’s backlash. We’ve got to be mindful of the fact that there’s always been resistance to this work. What I believe is that people who support greater inclusion will continue to support it. The people who never supported it are feeling more free to be open about that. I don’t think people have shifted their position. But some people are thinking, “Oh, thank goodness, I don’t have to pretend anymore.” I think it’s a good thing for people to be authentic. You know what you’re dealing with then. If resistance is articulated, you have an opportunity to address it. If it’s covert and disguised, it’s much harder.
You’ve said before that there are varying degrees of bravery and leadership. What’s your challenge to leaders of organisations around Australia?
My challenge to them is to follow the evidence and to resist any emotional push to abandon work on gender equality. The evidence is really clear. Diverse teams in an inclusive culture increase productivity, innovation and performance; they improve decision-making and reduce risk.
We’ve been talking about the evidence for so long. People have heard it before and they’re switching off... What else do you have to go on but scientific observation of the world and the data? That’s the only way you can meaningfully assess what is true and what isn’t. If you choose to not believe it, that’s an emotional response. It’s probably more to do with someone’s values. Being a leader demands that people are not led by their emotions as much.
Are quotas dead?
It depends on what you mean by a quota. The official definition focuses on mandated regulatory goals that have punitive measures. We’ve never had that in Australia. I think targets are always helpful. Businesses have targets for everything. So why wouldn’t you have targets around people and talent? Are they dead? No, I don’t think so. And in Australia, we have instruments, through the Workplace Gender Equality Agency, that require employers to report on their progress on gender so these aren’t easy things to move away from.
I know sexual harassment prevention and education has been a big focus for CEW. How literate is the corporate community on this issue? What needs to change?
Australian corporates – especially the ASX top 50 – have done a lot of work on compliance training around this. They don’t want reputational damage, not to mention the personal cost of having really problematic behaviour in their workplace. So they do invest in this and they do take it seriously. But the fact that the statistics haven’t changed much reflects emerging ways in which harassment and discrimination play out. The Human Rights Commission showed an increase in these things happening online. So you always have to stay one step ahead of that. And the data on harassment shows that it’s quite prevalent in small businesses, in certain sectors and in ways it’s harder for businesses to control. It may not be staff harassing other staff; it might be customers or clients.
CEW needs high-profile members who can agitate for change but as a member organisation, you also want to be inclusive. How do you manage that?
I’m looking forward to getting to know who the members are. I have a sense of some of them but there are more than 1200. I’m confident there’s a more diverse cohort than we think so I’m trying not to make assumptions. But as a member organisation, it’s incumbent on us to be representative.
Does that include broadening the membership criteria? The criteria for membership has been broadened. I think that has been a really good thing for the organisation because women’s leadership looks different in different sectors. In the not-for-profit space, you might have really influential women leaders who don’t meet the corporate criteria. It’s early days with the change of that criteria but I think the demography of the membership has probably broadened a bit more to reflect who Australian women leaders really are.
You’ve been working in this space for more than 25 years. Have you always been an activist?
I think I’m wired that way. I like to call myself a tempered radical. If you’re creating social change, your strategy has to be fit for purpose. I like to work within institutions to improve culture and change things in a way that is constructive. But there’s a role for lots of different players. There’s a role for the journalist and the disrupter or the activist and the storyteller.
Is there a role for someone to be angry?
Of course. But it depends on how you channel it. If anger motivates you to be destructive, that’s probably not going to be helpful. But if it motivates you to work really hard, it can be a good thing. There’s no one way to create change; it’s a system that requires lots of different facets.
What do you mean by that?
Well, look at the recent reforms CEW has been advocating for around early childhood education. We’re a leadership organisation but there are also grassroots organisations involved – the early childhood sector, unions, feminist organisations. It takes a whole system of people coming at a problem. The way we approach the need for universal early childhood education is that it’s a productivity issue. We’ve got employers who need access to a broad workforce and they need access to talent. Having a system that doesn’t enable full economic participation is problematic for employers. We also recognise that it’s important for children but we’re not early childhood educators so there has been a voice coming from the early childhood sector. It’s a jigsaw.
They’re wildly different stakeholders. How do you manage all of those voices?
You can always find something in common. I relish working with people who think differently to me and see the world in a different way. Not only does it challenge my thinking but it enables me to take different perspectives on board and improves my decision-making. It’s very arrogant to think your worldview is the correct view because it’s shaped by your own personal lived experience.
What do you think is your greatest strength as a leader? Optimism and resilience.
And what about your biggest gap? I lean introverted.
On the fly
Personal motto
I’m one person and I’m no more or less powerful than anybody else on the planet.
Email approach
I have a set time in the morning and then in the evening when I like to do a churn through. I’m pretty responsive.
Motivation tactic
Just do it. If you’re waiting for a guardian angel to give you inspiration, you could be waiting a long time. Motivation comes from discipline.
Productivity hacks
I’m a list maker. I pursue my list until I have ticked everything
Is that a gap, necessarily? It’s so important to see different types of leadership.
I have a job where it’s necessary for me to be extroverted. I don’t know that it’s a gap but it’s something that I work on.
So how do you look after yourself when you have to push yourself out there all the time?
It’s all the boring stuff. Focus on sleep. Exercise most days. I have constructive ways of managing stress. I eat healthily, generally. I don’t drink very much. I am blessed as a high-energy person. But as you get older, you have to take care of this vessel. There’s that saying that you can have many problems until you have poor health and then you’ve only got one problem. So I’m disciplined on that.
How do you approach difficult conversations?
I’ve focused on building that as a skill. It should be an ongoing conversation because that’s your obligation as a leader, to give people the respect of ongoing feedback. I like to share things they’ve done really well that I like and then share areas of focus. Constructive feedback is meaningful, not personal and given respectfully. For example, telling someone, “Oh, I think it would be great if you could be more responsive on emails...” is different from saying, “I can never get a hold of you. You’re terribly irresponsive on email.” If you demoralise someone to the point where their self-esteem is crushed, they’re not going to show up for you at work the next day. I don’t believe you can lead people in fear. You have to empower people with strength.
What’s one piece of advice you’d give a brand-new CEO?
People are everything. How you cultivate relationships, build psychological safety and interact with people respectfully and with dignity can make the difference between whether you’re going to have a high-performing team or not. You need a team where every person is operating at their best.
The interviewer is a member of CEW.
off and I don’t allow myself to deviate onto other things. That keeps me on track.
Business book or podcast
I like the 15 Minutes With the Boss podcast [from the AFR]. It’s quick and I love listening to Australian leaders and hearing about how they approach their day.
Favourite piece of advice
Work to your strengths. If you focus on your shadow areas, you’ll never be as good as someone who is strong in those areas – and people won’t be as good as you are in your natural areas of strength. So lean into your strengths in your leadership.
Accelerating Australia
with payment innovations like no other.
We’re designing innovative, tailored solutions to keep Australia moving.
CommBank Institutional
Business Passport
Just as it helps turn waste into new resources, TDG Environmental leverages its essential fuel spend with bp to create new business opportunities, expanding from a local sole trader to an industry tech leader.
Managing stormwater and sewer assets in urban environments is complex but TDG Environmental had a simple vision when it launched in 1989 to take on the large multinational firms providing services to councils and utility operators.
“Our founders believed they could bring better service and customer focus so they bought trucks and grew from there,” says current CEO Jochen Behr (above).
Today, TDG is the leader in sustainable stormwater and sewer management services in Australia and New Zealand, mapping pipe networks with multi-sensor technology and robotic crawlers, cleaning water infrastructure assets, conducting repairs and maintenance, and delivering recycling solutions. While most of its work happens below ground, TDG’s team spends a lot of time in the air, thanks to the flight savings it unlocks with BP Plus and Qantas Business Rewards.
The take-off
“A vision for better service”
“Most people don’t see what we do but, at its core, TDG maintains our clean environment by taking care of waterways and underground systems, including stormwater and sewerage, for councils and water authorities. Since 2016 we’ve acquired several businesses, all of which had the same mission to provide the best technology, tailored solutions and great service. We now have a fleet of 400 trucks and light vehicles and fuel is one of our biggest ongoing costs. We partnered with BP Plus because it has a large network and we save money. Fuel consumption reports we get through the online portal also help us to identify issues such as excessive fuel usage, which may indicate a problem with the vehicle’s engine. It means we can investigate and resolve issues promptly.”
“We put the points we earn with BP Plus back into the business for flights, hotels, car hire and gifts. We look at it as a bonus.”
Jochen Behr, CEO, TDG Environmental
Tip: Knowledge is power
The turning point
“Technology is changing the game”
“Our other point of difference is UtilityTrack, our proprietary software that’s like Google Earth for pipes. It’s CCTV footage taken by state-of-the-art equipment going through pipes and covers more than 10,000 kilometres of the underground network. It’s one of the largest databases of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere and helps our customers reduce costs and supports preventive maintenance. We still need to be there on the ground and fuelling our fleet with BP Plus earns us between 50,000 and 60,000 Qantas Points a month. These points are reinvested into flights; our team travels a lot across sites in Australia and New Zealand to make sure we’re putting robust and consistent processes in place as we scale up. Likewise, as we continue to grow and add to our fleet, onboarding new vehicles is easy via the BP Plus online portal.”
“As a business, sustainability is a high priority and we have strong ESG targets and initiatives,” says Behr (above with Ben Richards, General Manager, Victoria). “The reporting detail we get from BP Plus gives us transparency about our fuel consumption and emissions, which is very important to us.” Whether you’re a sole trader or a
Unlock more rewards when filling up for your business
Earn Qantas Points
The only fuel card that rewards your business with Qantas Points every time you fill up or shop in-store at bp.
Receive discounts on fuel
Ongoing fuel savings for your business when you fill up at over 1,400 bp sites across Australia.
The future
“Expanding our solutions”
“Our business model is about staying very local in terms of devising tailored solutions for each of our customers but at the same time bringing the benefits of being one of the largest players in the market. If we implement a great solution for one customer we work out how that could help other parts of our business. You need personal interactions to build trust with clients and travel will always be central to our business. We also travel to make sure we are bringing in all the latest innovations – events like the IFAT annual world trade fair for environmental technologies in Munich, Germany, are essential. We’re still acquiring businesses so our executive team travels a lot; across the company we take around 30 flights a month. We book these trips through Qantas Business Rewards so we access flight discounts and earn Qantas Points for the business, as well as the traveller.”
Easy account management
With BP Plus Online, save time and reduce admin by consolidating all fuel and vehicle expenses in one platform, plus access 24/ 7 monitoring and control.
Limited-time offer
New BP Plus customers can earn triple Qantas Points and save 6 cents per litre for the first 7 months. Plus, earn 100,000 bonus points when you fill up with 15,000 litres or more within the first 7 months. Apply for a BP Plus fuel card today. Offer ends 31 July 2025. T&Cs apply. Visit qantas.com/qbr/bpplus
Rhoda Roberts AO
The award-winning arts leader, journalist, actor, advocate and all-round trailblazer is curator of the Parrtjima Festival. Held in the Red Centre this month, the event, like Roberts herself, shines a light on Aboriginal creative excellence.
As told to Di Webster
My first job, before I could train as a registered nurse, was in the deli section at Woolworths in Lismore, NSW. We were engaging with local producers at a time when the dairy industry was facing huge tariffs and a lot of farms were closing. I didn’t realise it but getting that milk, watching the pricing change and seeing the domino effect of things like tariffs broadened my outlook.
I got my first lesson in leadership from my father [civil-rights campaigner Frank Roberts Jnr]. He was very politically active but very quiet; he just got on with it. His great quality was humility – “kindness and generosity, then action”. He said, “Everyone will talk about doing something but they don’t always do it. If you want to identify as a Widjabul Wiyebal woman, you’ve got an obligation and you need to get on with it.”
One of the first times I learnt to change gears was in 2015, when I launched DanceRites [a First Nations dance competition held on the Sydney Opera House forecourt]. I started off [pitching to sponsors] in quite a corporate way. Then I saw one of the philanthropic families get emotional at an image and I shifted my whole pitch. I showed young men crying into the sand circle and talked about the change in one community because it had won DanceRites. That sponsor remained for the next six years.
My first very difficult decision as a leader was when I brought in a First Nations colleague with experience in the creative sector to upskill as a producer. But he wasn’t the right fit. It led to an altercation with his senior producer and I had to reassess his employment. I was so focused on creating a supportive First Nations space that I’d provided more support to the agitator than to the non-Indigenous senior producer, who I deeply admired.
The first time I really used my influence to get people on board was in the lead-up to the Sydney 2000 Olympics. Many Indigenous communities were considering a boycott of the Games. As artistic director of the Festival of the Dreaming, I travelled the country asking custodians and leaders how they wanted to be represented on the world stage. At first there was resistance but we finally agreed that as host nations, Indigenous communities should guide the presentation of our culture.
Defining moment
“I was awarded an Order of Australia and I really struggled with it because it was the Queen's Honours. I didn't know I'd been nominated. I said, ‘I've done nothing.’ They showed me the nomination with all the testimonials from people I'd worked with. For me, that said, ‘Okay, accept this. These are your peers saying you deserve this honour and it's for the work that you’ve done.’”
FTN Motion
What started with a trip to the tip and a roll of plastic wrap has grown into a burgeoning electric motorcycle business. Luke Sinclair shares what got the wheels moving.
Interview by Jane Nicholls
What’s your elevator pitch?
“We’re building the ultimate urban motorcycle, the Streetdog, which is electric for those low-speed, short trips around town (ftnmotion.com).”
What is the problem you are aiming to solve?
“We thought other electric motorcycles looked either futuristic or a bit boring and we wanted to bring a bit of that analogue feel – the soul that people love motorcycles for – with the ease of use and accessibility of electric.”
How did you get it off the ground?
“Kendall and I have been mates since school and studied mechanical engineering at university together. After uni we walked the length of New Zealand on the Te Araroa trail, which ended up being a time for ideas. We started thinking about doing something meaningful with our engineering degrees. Kendall came up with the idea of converting a bicycle into an electric moped. We found an old BMX frame at the rubbish dump and an old electric motor, figured out how to make a battery pack and plastic-wrapped it to the frame. Later, when Kendall and I were flatting together in Wellington during lockdown, we had four weeks to sit in the garage and put together a proper prototype. Saskia came onboard in 2020 to help us with branding and marketing. In late 2024 she stepped away as a director to have her first child – we still see her regularly.”
How does it work?
“The advantage of electric is the instant response and with a hub motor on the wheel and the battery under the seat, you have all this extra room within the frame to maximise for 30 litres of lockable storage. The Streetdog50 has up to 100 kilometres of range with a 50 kilometres per hour
top speed and the Streetdog80 can go 80 kilometres per hour with a range of 60 to 80 kilometres on a single battery. The removable battery is charged from any wall socket. You can customise the colour scheme – there are a couple of hundred different configurations, which is a nightmare from the production side but people get really excited about it.
We manufacture in Hamilton, which is a strong industrial hub. Some motorcycle-specific components come from China and Taiwan, and some key premium components are sourced from Italy and Germany but the Streetdog’s core components are all made here in New Zealand. Manufacturing locally is a real game changer – the relationships you build, the speed of making changes and improvements, and managing inventory all becomes easier.”
How did you convince investors?
“We were bloody hopeless at pitching but we had an amazing prototype that looked like the finished product and it was something no-one had seen before. We got into the startup
2115671 2025-02-18T17:22:01+11:00
ecosystem in Wellington and Creative HQ gave us office space and access to mentors and advisors to help us build a business plan. It was brilliant – like a four-year uni degree in a couple of months. Today we have investors who want to see innovative things happening in New Zealand and the decarbonisation of commuting. Most of them are mad about motorcycles – it turns out there’s a lot of crossover between investors and people with large motorcycle collections! Our most high-profile investor is Roland Krueger, former CEO of Dyson and an industrial designer who has a lifetime experience in the automotive industry, and he is quite involved now.
What’s next?
“We launched the Streetdog in Australia last month. Next year we’ll start to look to bigger markets – in the long-term our ambition is to get into the European and American markets and there will be more products coming into the Streetdog line. Our focus is to build the best bike in terms of quality and customer experience.”
Co-founders Kendall Bristow, 34 (far left); Saskia Thornton, 37; and Luke Sinclair, 34
Investors Private investors, including Roland Krueger
First customer 2022, Brandon Skilton, first Streetdog owner and fan from the prototype days
Headquarters Hamilton, New Zealand
Number of employees 15
San Francisco Four of the best stays for business travellers.
Story by Bridget de Maine
1. San Francisco Proper Hotel MID-MARKET
Drawcards of this 131-room Beaux Arts beauty include Aesop amenities and a Peloton-equipped gym (qantas.com/ hotels/sanfranciscoproperhotel). The art-filled lobby salon and adjoining eatery Villon are just the spots for relaxed catch-ups while few places are more enticing to tackle your emails than Charmaine’s on the rooftop –even locals line up to sip Napa Valley cab sav 36 metres above the city.
2. 1 Hotel San Francisco FINANCIAL DISTRICT
A laser focus on sustainability is what makes this luxury stay (qantas.com/
hotels/1hotelsanfrancisco) feel so special. Warmth radiates from the reclaimed barn wood flooring and redwood (from the original Bay Bridge) that lines the hallways, plus there’s an Audi e-tron for complimentary guest use (within a three-kilometre radius). The non-toxic mattresses and sustainable bed linen in each of the 200 rooms will work wonders for tired travellers.
3. Timbri Hotel San Francisco, Curio Collection by Hilton MID-MARKET
If location is of utmost importance, 236-room Timbri Hotel (qantas.com/ hotels/timbrisanfrancuriocollection), which reopened in January after a refresh, is a smart choice. Everything from the museum district of SoMa to
the dim sum of Chinatown are within 15 minutes walk of the lobby. Or clients could easily come to you: the property has a meeting room, greenhouse-style eatery, café and bar onsite.
4. The Jay, Autograph Collection EMBARCADERO
Cut your commute to the office towers of Embarcadero and the Financial District by staying at The Jay (qantas. com/hotels/thejayhotelsanfrancisco), conveniently connected to the centre by a pedestrian bridge. The 360-room hotel is as chic as they come, with comforts spanning cosy corner couches and soft terry robes. The terrace at the Third Floor Restaurant and Lounge is another space to unwind in, open for coffee at 6.30am through to evening drinks until 11pm.
Christine Gatti. Garrett Rowland
ON BOARD
Movies
Kick back and catch up on the latest releases
The Pool
Bondi Beach attracts tourists, hippies, surfers and celebrities to its natural beauty and glamour but its ocean pool, the most photographed in the world, remains sacrosanct, like a baptismal basin where locals are born anew each sunrise in the chilly water. Ian Darling, himself an ardent swimmer, sought to capture this special place and its unique community of Olympians, kids, scenesters and retirees for a documentary that’s heartwarming, nostalgic and celebratory of the people who have flocked to the place known as Icebergs since 1929.
Rated M
Wicked
By now, you’re probably familiar with the song Defying Gravity; that triumphant clarion call Elphaba (Cynthia Erivo, above left) bellows to camera while swirling upward on her broom and away from the land of Oz in 2024’s screen adaptation of the original Broadway musical, Wicked. The beauty of the tune lies in the fact that Elphaba, in her transition from shy student to the Wicked Witch of the West, is defying not just gravity but those who would prefer she give up her power.
While the other signature song, Popular, by Glinda the Good Witch (Ariana Grande, above right) is beloved for its wry effervescence, it’s Defying Gravity that represents the beating heart of the story and the reason it elicits such devotion from fans.
More than an origin story of witches or a prologue to the 1939 film, The Wizard of Oz, Wicked, with its extravagant tunes and outsized emotionality, is an allegory for anyone who has lived life on the margins and been tricked into believing that their difference automatically means something is wrong. Elphaba must wrestle with the “otherness” of her emerald skin, her magic powers, her intelligence. But even before she climbs up on that broom, she never wrestles with anyone’s approval.
Directed by Jon M. Chu and co-starring Michelle Yeoh as Madame Morrible and Jeff Goldblum as the slithery Wizard, this first chapter of Wicked (the second will be out in November) carries a universal message. Rated PG
Sonic the Hedgehog 3
A video game series about a blue humanoid mammal with the power to run faster than the speed of sound seems an unlikely candidate for a movie, let alone two sequels. Yet here we are. In this third instalment, Sonic (voiced by Ben Schwartz) joins forces with unlikely allies to battle a mysterious enemy known as Shadow (Keanu Reeves). Also listen out for Jim Carrey’s return as the voice of Doctor Eggman. Rated PG
A Complete Unknown
When actor Timothée Chalamet (right) was asked in a recent interview what he would say if he ever met Bob Dylan, the legendary musician he portrays in this movie, Chalamet replied, “I’d probably try to out-Bob him.” The actor meant that he’d attempt nonchalance but his reply could just as easily refer to his performance. Chalamet’s dedication to learning harmonica, guitar and every groove and pothole of Dylan’s famous gravelly voice has earned him critical acclaim. Edward Norton plays Pete Seeger, who helped usher Dylan into the world of folk music only to have him supersede it, and has also earned rave reviews, along with Elle Fanning and Monica Barbaro. But it is Chalamet who truly elevates the story of the at-times ornery Dylan, a man who managed to revolutionise music and turn 1960s acoustic culture electric before the age of 30. Rated M
The Brutalist When does the discipline required for excellence shade into cruelty? At what point is sacrifice worthy of its legacy? These two questions are woven throughout The Brutalist, an epic take on the post-World War II immigrant experience. The tale is expressed through the eyes of Hungarian-Jewish Holocaust survivor László Tóth (played by Adrien Brody, who won an Oscar for his performance), whose talent for architectural design is co-opted by his most important client, Harrison Lee Van Buren (Guy Pearce, left). Written by husbandand-wife team Mona Fastvold and Brady Corbet, who also directs, this is an intentionally brutal look at one man’s ephemeral American dream. Rated MA15+
Television
The best shows to binge this month
Matlock
Kathy Bates (above, centre) perfectly embodies the folksy wisdom and sharp detective skills of the original character of Matlock, a criminal lawyer played by Andy Griffith from 1986 to 1995. But in 2025, Bates, who won a Critics Choice Award for her performance, is bringing something else: a nuanced portrayal of what it means to “mask” in a corporate setting by pretending to share the same values as the shrewd law firm she works for, all the while plotting something else entirely. Rated M
Dexter: Original Sin
If we can have a film about a young Tony Soprano (The Many Saints of Newark) then the time is surely ripe for a series about vigilante Dexter Morgan (Patrick Gibson, left, with Christian Slater as his father) in his teen years. Rated MA15+
Get Millie Black
After she is expelled from Scotland Yard, Jamaican-born Millie-Jean Black (Tamara Lawrance, below) returns to Kingston and the Jamaican Police Force to investigate crimes at home in this thriller written by Booker Prizewinning novelist Marlon James. Rated MA15+
The Irrational
Unconscious bias. Unexamined desire. Alec Mercer (Jesse L. Martin, below), a professor of behavioural psychology, is here to expose it all so the police can catch crooks and unpack the irrational impulses that drive them. Rated M
Emperor of Ocean Park
When a top judge (Forest Whitaker) dies suddenly, seemingly of a heart attack, his daughter, a former journalist (Tiffany Mack), and his son (Grantham Coleman, below right, with Whitaker) suspect foul play. Rated MA15+
Audiobooks
Listen in to these great stories
Allegra in Three Parts
Young Allegra is surrounded by people who love her – grandmothers Joy and Matilde and father Rick – yet these same people don’t love each other. They all live in their own worlds, divided from each other by a tragedy that refuses to remain silently in the past. In her awardwinning coming-of-age debut novel set in 1970s Australia, writer Suzanne Daniel makes the conflicted Allegra the lens through which her splintered family is viewed.
A Human’s Guide to the Future
Overwhelmed by the lightning-fast evolution of scientific and technological advances and want to make sense of it all? In this book, Australian biomedical engineer, inventor and futurist Dr Jordan Nguyen takes us on a fascinating journey through high-tech innovations, including robotics, artificial intelligence and bionics, arguing that embracing this mind-blowing change can benefit our future rather than destroy our humanity.
Bridge of Clay
With their mother dead and father gone, the five Dunbar boys have to fend for themselves. To survive, they’ve had to write their own rules. Clay, the quiet fourth brother, will be the one who creates a miracle of sorts, building a bridge for his family to transcend life as it is for something better. This Australian coming-of-age story from Markus Zusak, author of bestseller The Book Thief, is about the possibility of love and dignity in the midst of terrible loss and cruelty.
Enjoy unlimited access to theaustralian.com.au, afr.com.au and themonthly.com.au when you are connected to Qantas Wi-Fi onboard and in Qantas lounges.
Connect to Qantas
Free Wi-Fi and Entertainment App
Once onboard, connect your own device to Qantas Free Wi-Fi on domestic flights in three simple steps to access the internet and Qantas Entertainment App.
STEP 1
Enable Aeroplane Mode and select the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network in your Wi-Fi settings .
STEP 2
Follow the prompts on the “Welcome Onboard” screen to connect.
STEP 3
Once you’re connected, you’re now ready to access the internet and the Qantas Entertainment App.
Having trouble connecting?
Make sure you are connected to the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network and go to wifi.qantas.com in your preferred browser to start exploring. Inflight entertainment varies by route and aircraft. Voice calls are not permitted inflight.
06. Weird ABC lingo used in Honest Abe’s birthplace (3,5)
12. Driving in the thing, corrosion becomes evident (9)
13. They gloss over mouthpieces (9)
14. Turns over a new leaf with regard to school grades (7)
15. Monsters made some progress (5)
16. Have another attempt at modifying retro ending (5)
17. Billie’s breaks from work (8)
19. Supplies fabrics (9)
22. Lying raconteurs? (12)
23. Shocked, not stirred by Bond’s stipulation (6)
25. Outfits that prompt impolite quip, say, from some (6)
27. Happening to be in coal production is fortuitous (12)
31. Do the wrong thing by association in cabaret venue (9)
33. Wild fowl makes a pleasant change (8)
35. Rita organised a weapon for Wonder Woman (5)
36. Chevy seen in famous scene in The Italian Job (5)
37. Their victims are stuck-up (7)
40. Reflected deeply and negotiated to include original testimony (9)
41. Resolve to discourage colliery (9)
42. Altered records had bearing on relief provider (3,5)
43. Motivate quiet staff (4)
44. I’ll discuss plane seating request (5)
Down
01 Walk inside to return key (5)
02. Group of investments of pilot or doctor (9)
03. He has suffered a beating (5)
04. Bob, for one, set off this early (9)
05. US soldier in Reno, wandering the district (6)
07. Directly facing one half of the shop is the post-office site (8)
08. Purveyor notices Felix, perhaps, has two queens (7)
09. Retrace steps but not to the front line, apparently (9)
10. Mean to remove more from monastery (5)
11. Radical sailor in blue (11)
17. Faded star like Bean? He’s getting a makeover! (3-4)
18. Run out to wipe the dishes (3,2)
20. Sign new lease in underwear (7)
21. Astonish committees by revealing what’s under the carpet (11)
24. Flashy enactment used to capture predator (5)
26. To be frank, that’s open to attack (9)
28. Received as per Will’s instructions (9)
29. The first fury passes in disasters (9)
30. Calms down when current letters are covered by crockery (8)
32. Large area of land or farm vehicle (7)
34. Hand over plaster (6)
35. Kitchen counter? (5)
38. Bachelor has rum made in this country (5)
39. Got married in south-east to a Scandinavian (5)
Wheel of words
Create as many words of four letters or more as you can using the given letters once only but always including the central letter. Don’t use proper nouns or plurals ending with “s”. See if you can find the nine-letter word using all letters.
Match-ups –American authors
Complete the names of the listed American authors and find the missing parts hidden in the grid of letters. The letters left over will spell out a famous American novel.
James Cooper
Grisham
Louisa May
Heller
Mitchell
Puzo
Twain
Crichton
Nathaniel
Stephen
Stephenie
Truman
Roth
Bradbury
Williams
Morrison
Whitman
Faulkner
Spot the difference
Can you spot the seven differences between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.
Quiz
In memory of Hazel Flynn
01. Jim Henson and Jane Nebel Henson created what iconic TV and film characters?
02. Bismuth, calcium, magnesium and potassium are what kind of chemical elements?
03. What are the two ingredients of the Italian dessert affogato?
04. And which singer topped charts in 2024 with a single named for one of those ingredients?
05. What eight-time Olympic gold medallist has children named Olympia Lightning and Thunder?
06. Systolic and diastolic are the two key numbers in what medical measure?
07. In IT and gaming, what does WYSIWYG stand for?
08. What country is home to the world’s widest canyon?
09. In what country does “crore” signify 10 million?
10. Aunty Entity, Nux and Dementus are characters in films from what franchise?
11. Worthy Farm in Somerset, England, is home to what famed music festival?
12. What military term is a collective noun for a group of monkeys?
13. What sports and entertainment venue in Ancient Rome held up to 250,000 spectators?
14. In what two countries is the 2017 novel Pachinko set?
15. Which countries will, respectively, host the next Women’s and Men’s Rugby World Cup?
16. What year saw the creation of the World Wide Web, the debut of The Simpsons and the birth of actor Daniel Radcliffe?
17. What Australian territory has an official Thanksgiving Day public holiday?
18. What is the only country in the world named after a specific woman?
19. In its 10-year lifespan, does the umbrella slug produce 7,500, 75,000 or 750,000 teeth?
20. In business, what does MOU stand for?
Czech Republic
Just got back from a trip?
Top End to Tasmania or Coogee to Cottesloe – if you’ve flown anywhere in Australia recently, we’d love to hear from you.
Email your holiday highlights to travel@mediumrarecontent.com for your chance to be on the Qantas Travel Insider website at qantas. com/travelinsider.
Solutions
If you’ve filled in the answers, please take the magazine with you so the cabin crew know to replace it with a new copy.
Amy Tan, Dan Brown, Edgar Allan Poe, Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Harper Lee, Harriet Beecher Stowe, Henry Miller, Herman Wouk, Hunter S. Thompson, James Fenimore Cooper, John Grisham, Joseph Heller, Louisa May Alcott, Margaret Mitchell, Mario Puzo, Mark Twain, Michael Crichton, Nathaniel Hawthorne, Philip Roth, Ray Bradbury, Stephen King, Stephenie Meyer, Tennessee Williams, Toni Morrison, Truman Capote, Walt Whitman, William Faulkner Solution: To Kill a Mockingbird
Quiz
01. The Muppets 02. Metals 03. Ice-cream or gelato and espresso 04. Sabrina Carpenter ( Espresso) 05 . Usain Bolt 06. Blood pressure reading 07. What You See Is What You Get 08. Australia (Capertee Valley, NSW) 09. India 10. Mad Max 11. Glastonbury 12. Troop 13. The Circus Maximus 14. Korea and Japan 15. England (Women’s, 2025) and Australia (Men’s, 2027) 16. 1989 17. Norfolk Island 18. Saint Lucia (Ireland is named for a goddess) 19. 750,000 20. Memorandum of Understanding
Inflight workout
These exercises are designed to provide a safe way to stretch and enjoy movement in certain muscle groups that can become stiff as a result of long periods of sitting. They may be effective at increasing the body’s blood circulation and massaging the muscles. We recommend you do these exercises for three or four minutes every hour and occasionally leave your seat to walk down the aisles. Each exercise should be done with minimal disturbance to other passengers. None of these exercises should be performed if they cause pain or cannot be done with ease.
01
Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upwards as high as you can.
Ankle circles
Lift feet. Draw a circle with toes, moving one foot clockwise and the other counterclockwise at the same time. Reverse circles. Rotate in each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.
Knee lifts Lift leg with knee bent while contracting your thigh muscle. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30 times for each leg.
Neck roll
With shoulders relaxed, drop your ear to your shoulder and gently roll your neck forward and back, holding each position for about five seconds. Repeat five times.
Knee to chest Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around the knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.
In the air
Mobile phones and electronic equipment: All transmitting electronic devices, including mobile phones, tablets and laptop computers, must be switched to flight mode* prior to departure. Smaller devices such as mobile phones, e-readers, electronic games, MP3 players, iPads and other small tablets may be held in your hands or stowed in a seat pocket. Unless otherwise directed by the captain, these devices may remain switched on and used in flight mode during take-off, cruise and landing. Larger electronic equipment such as laptop computers may only be used from when the aircraft seatbelt sign is extinguished after take-off until the top of descent. After landing, the cabin crew will advise when flight mode may be switched off.
Headsets: Do not use a personal single-pin audio headset in the Qantas inflight entertainment system unless it is supported by a two-pin airline headset adaptor. Personal headsets that connect via a cable
to a handheld device can be used at any time from boarding until arrival. Headsets and other devices that connect via Bluetooth must be switched off for take-off and landing but can be used during cruise.
*Flight mode enables you to operate basic functions of your mobile phone or personal electronic device while its transmitting function is switched off, meaning you cannot make phone calls or send an SMS.
Fly Well
Your wellbeing is our priority. Our Fly Well program brings together a number of measures to give you peace of mind during your flight.
Cabin air: Our aircraft air conditioning systems are fitted with hospital-grade HEPA filters, which remove 99.9% of all particles including viruses. The air inside the cabin is refreshed every few minutes, ensuring the highest possible air quality.
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Put both feet flat on the floor. Lift heels high, keeping the balls of the feet on the floor.
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Repeat these three stages in a continuous motion and at 30-second intervals.
Forward flex
With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.
Shoulder roll Hunch shoulders forwards then upwards, backwards and downwards in a gentle circular motion.
Inflight: The aircraft configuration, including the seats and galley, act as a natural barrier, and people are not seated face to face. The direction of inflight airflow is ceiling to floor.
Enhanced cleaning: Our aircraft are cleaned with a disinfectant effective against coronaviruses, with a focus on the high contact areas of seats, seatbelts, overhead lockers, air vents and toilets. Our people are trained in the latest hygiene protocols.
Your inflight health: When flying, passengers can be seated and inactive for long periods of time. The environment can be low in humidity and the cabin pressure equivalent to an altitude of 2440 metres above sea level. The following advice helps you stay healthy during your journey.
The importance of inflight blood circulation and muscle relaxation: When walking, the leg muscle action helps return venous blood to the heart. Sitting in the same position for a long period of time can slow
Foot pumps (foot motion is in three stages)
this process and, in some people, leads to swelling in the feet. Some studies have shown that immobility associated with travel of longer than four hours (by air, car or rail) can also lead to an increased risk of deep vein thrombosis (DVT), or clotting in the legs. Personal factors that increase the risk of DVT include:
Age over 40 years
Personal or family history of DVT or pulmonary embolus
Recent surgery or injury, especially to the lower limbs, pelvis or abdomen Cancer
Inherited or other blood disorders leading to clotting tendency
Pregnancy
Oestrogen therapy (oral contraceptive pill or hormone replacement therapy).
There are a number of ways to help reduce the possibility of DVT, including the following: Avoid leg-crossing while seated
Ensure adequate hydration
Minimise alcohol and caffeine intake before and during your flight
Wear comfortable, loose-fitting clothes
During your flight, move your legs and feet for three to four minutes per hour while seated and move about the cabin occasionally
Do the light exercises we recommend here (see above) and through the inflight entertainment system.
If you have concerns about your health and flying, or you feel that you may be at risk of DVT, Qantas recommends that you talk to your doctor before travelling. Additional measures such as well-fitted compression stockings or anti-clotting medication may be recommended for high-risk individuals.
Jet lag: Unlike other forms of transport, air travel allows for rapid movement across many time zones, which can disrupt the body’s biological clock. This is commonly known as jet lag. This disruption can affect various body rhythms such as the sleepwake cycle and the digestive system, leading to symptoms such as tiredness and lack of energy and appetite. In general, the more time zones crossed, the more disruption of the body clock and the more symptoms experienced after the journey. We recommend the following to minimise the effects of jet lag.
Before your flight:
Get a good night’s rest
During your flight:
Eat light meals
Wear loose, comfortable clothing and sleep when you can
Stay hydrated – drink plenty of water and avoid excess tea, coffee and alcohol
At your destination:
If possible, give yourself a day or two after arrival to adjust to the new time zone
Go out in the daylight and do some light exercise
Try to eat meals and do other social activities at appropriate destination times to adjust to the new time zone
Cabin humidity and hydration: Humidity levels of less than 25 per cent are common in the cabin, as the outside air that supplies the cabin is very dry. The low humidity can cause drying of the surfaces of the nose, throat and eyes and it can irritate contact lenses. If normal fluid intake is maintained during the flight, dehydration will not occur.
We recommend:
Drink water and juices frequently during the flight
Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation
Remove contact lenses and wear glasses if your eyes are irritated
Use a skin moisturiser to refresh the skin
Cabin pressurisation: During flight, aircraft cabin pressure is maintained to a sufficient density for your comfort and health. As the aircraft climbs, the cabin may reach the same air pressure as at an elevation of 2440 metres above sea level. Cabin pressure does not pose a problem for most passengers. However, if you suffer from obstructive pulmonary diseases, anaemias or certain cardiovascular conditions, you could experience discomfort at these altitudes. These passengers should seek medical advice before flying, as some may require supplementary oxygen. Qantas can arrange this but requires at least seven days’ notice before travelling. The rate of change in cabin pressure during climb and descent is also carefully maintained and does not usually cause discomfort. However, children and infants, and adults who have sinus or nasal congestion, may experience some discomfort because of pressure changes during climb and particularly descent. Those suffering from nasal or sinus congestion because of a cold or allergies may need to delay travel. The following advice may assist:
To “clear” your ears, try swallowing, yawning or pinching your nose closed and gently blowing against it. These actions help open the Eustachian tubes, equalising pressure between the middle ear chamber and throat. If flying with an infant, feed or give your baby a dummy during descent. Sucking and swallowing help equalise pressure in an infant’s ears. Give children something to drink or chew during descent.
Consider using medication such as nasal sprays, decongestants and antihistamines 30 minutes prior to descent to help open up your ear and sinus passages.
Motion sickness: Air travel, especially if turbulence is experienced, can cause motion sickness, as it leads to a conflict between the body’s sense of vision and its sense of equilibrium. Maintaining good visual cues (keeping your eyes fixed on a non-moving object) helps prevent motion sickness. When the weather is clear, you should look out at the ground, sea or horizon. If the horizon can’t be seen, closing your eyes and keeping your head movements to a minimum will help. While over-thecounter medications are available, we recommend you consult your doctor about the appropriate medications. More information can be found:
At qantas.com.au/info/flying/intheair/ yourhealthinflight
Through the onboard entertainment system On our information leaflet available from Qantas or your travel agent
Smoking: Government regulations prohibit smoking on all flights operated by Australian-registered aircraft. The use and charging of all e-cigarettes and other personal vaporisers are not permitted on board an aircraft. There are smoke detectors in all toilets and penalties for regulation breaches.
Travelling with children: Please ask cabin crew for help if required. Baby food and nappies (diapers) are available on most flights, while some washrooms are fitted with baby change tables. Please dispose of nappies etc. in the waste bins.
When you land
Leaving flights: On international flights, the cabin crew will distribute the necessary Customs and Immigration forms. If you are stopping en route, you will need your boarding pass to re-board the aircraft. If you’re travelling as a domestic passenger on an international flight within Australia, retain your boarding card with the large D sticker. This will be required to clear Customs at your destination.
Transferring from Australian domestic flights numbered QF400 and above to international flights: At check-in you will be issued with your international boarding pass. Your international boarding pass and baggage will be tagged through to your final destination. There is no need to claim your baggage or attend check-in at the transfer airport. Follow the signs for international transfers passengers to the complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne and Darwin).
Transferring from international to domestic flights numbered QF400 and above: On arrival at your Australian transfer port, go through Immigration and collect your luggage. Proceed through Customs and follow the signs to the domestic transfer area to re-check your luggage. A complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne, Adelaide and Darwin) departs at regular intervals for the domestic terminal for your connecting Qantas flight within Australia. If your connecting domestic flight is numbered QF1-QF399, there is no need to clear Customs and Immigration. These flights depart from the international terminals. Customs and Immigration clearance will be completed at your final destination.
Transferring to a Jetstar domestic flight: If your next flight is with Jetstar (JQ) or a Qantas codeshare flight operated by Jetstar (QF5400-QF5999), you will need to collect your baggage and follow the signs to the Jetstar counter to check in for your flight and re-check your baggage.
What you need to know about your onboard security, safety and health
Qantas security policy
The Qantas Group has a strict policy of denying boarding, or off-loading any passenger who makes inappropriate comments or behaves inappropriately inflight or on the ground. Qantas will not accept any inappropriate comments as “jokes”. It will also seek to recover all costs incurred, including diversions as a result of security incidents, from those involved.
Group-wide security
Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation. The Qantas Group ensures that its passengers, staff and aircraft are safe and secure through an outcome-focused, risk-based approach to security management. Qantas security standards apply across the business, including QantasLink and Jetstar.
A dedicated operations centre monitors global security events 24 hours a day.
Security advice
Pack your own luggage
Do not carry any items for another person
Carry valuables, approved medication and keys in your carry-on baggage
All knives, sharp objects or cutting implements must be in checked baggage
Security measures can include random frisk search after consent is obtained. Passengers may request privacy and must be searched by a screener of the same gender
Important note: Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation.
Restrictions on powders and liquids, aerosols and gels (LAGs)
On all international flights to and from Australia: Each container of LAGs in your carry-on baggage must be 100ml or less
All 100ml containers must be placed in a single transparent one-litre plastic bag
Plastic bags containing LAGs are to be screened separately from other carry-on baggage
All powders must be screened separately with restrictions on the carriage of inorganic powders over 350ml (350g)
Passengers may still carry prescription medicines or baby products sufficient for the flight
If departing, transiting or transferring on an international flight at an Australian
international gateway airport, duty-free powders and LAGs must be sealed, with receipt, in a security tamper-evident bag issued at the time of purchase
Full-body scanners
The Australian federal government has introduced full-body scanners at international gateway airports: Sydney, Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Perth, Melbourne and the Gold Coast
The Australian Federal Government has commenced introducing full-body scanners at major domestic airports: Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Canberra, Darwin, Gold Coast, Hobart, Launceston, Melbourne, Newcastle, Perth, Sunshine Coast, Sydney and Townsville
At international gateway airports passengers refusing to pass through the scanner will be banned from entering the sterile area or boarding an aircraft for 24 hours
Exemptions apply for people with serious medical conditions, infants and small children, and people in wheelchairs
As per advice, the energy exposure is comparable to that from a mobile phone several metres away
There are no known safety concerns for people with pacemakers and metal implants or for pregnant women
Dangerous goods
Common items used every day may seem harmless but on an aircraft they may become dangerous. When the aircraft changes altitude, variations in temperature and pressure may cause items to leak, create fumes or catch fire.
Items that are forbidden on aircraft or have carriage restrictions include lithium batteries, other battery types, camping stoves, fuels, oils, compressed gases, aerosols, household cleaners, matches, lighters, paints, explosives (including flares, fireworks, sparklers and bonbons), emergency position-indicating radio beacons, radioactive material, biological and infectious substances and fuel-powered equipment. This list is not exhaustive so please carefully consider what items you pack for your next flight.
If you’re unsure about an item in your baggage, ask a member of our friendly cabin crew. For further information, go to qantas.com or email dg@qantas.com.au.
Travel advice
Qantas is a partner in the Australian government’s Charter for Safe Travel. Travellers may obtain the latest travel advice for their destination by visiting smartraveller.gov.au.
Automated immigration clearance
Several countries are introducing automated immigration clearance procedures to cope with growing air-travel numbers. The goal is to provide a faster, smoother immigration experience to eligible passengers without compromising border security. Please note that some automated clearance options may not be available due to COVID. Countries providing facilities across our network:
Australia SmartGate: e-passport holders of Australia, Canada, China, France, Hong Kong, Ireland, Japan, Korea, Macau, New Zealand, Singapore, Sweden, Switzerland, UK and US
China e-Channel: citizens of China
Hong Kong e-Channel Residents: citizens and residents of Hong Kong
Hong Kong e-Channel Visitors: frequent visitors that are visa-exempt, including Australians
Indonesia Autogate passport gates: citizens of Indonesia
Japan Speedy Immigration: citizens and foreign nationals with re-entry and special re-entry permits
New Zealand SmartGate Plus: e-passport holders of Australia, New Zealand, UK and US
Singapore enhanced-Immigration Automated Clearance System (eIACS): citizens, permanent residents, work permit holders and APEC cardholders
UAE eGate: UAE citizens and residents
UK ePassport gates: e-passport holders of UK, Switzerland and European Economic Area (EEA)
USA Global Entry system: US citizens and permanent residents, Dutch citizens, South Korean citizens and Mexican nationals. Canadian citizens and residents with NEXUS membership
USA Automated Passport Control: for US, Canadian and Visa Waiver Program passport holders
Fee applies
Pre-enrolment required
Enjoy one status on 13 airlines.
Enjoy one status on 13 airlines.
Access to preferred or pre-reserved seating is in accordance with the individual policy of the oneworld member airline operating the flight. First and business class check-in desks and lounges are not available at all airports. Fast track is not available at all airports. Priority baggage handling is not available on flights operated by British Airways. Extra baggage allowance benefits differ for Sapphire and Emerald tier members. oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Air Maroc, Royal Jordanian, SriLankan Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. Some limitations and exceptions may apply. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/benefits. Fiji Airways is a oneworld connect partner which provides select alliance benefits to oneworld members. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/oneworld-connect. For detailed information on the oneworld Lounge Access policy, visit https://www.oneworld.com/airport-lounges.
Access to preferred or pre-reserved seating is in accordance with the individual policy of the oneworld member airline operating the flight. First and business class check-in desks and lounges are not available at all airports. Fast track is not available at all airports. Priority baggage handling is not available on flights operated by British Airways. Extra baggage allowance benefits differ for Sapphire and Emerald tier members. oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Air Maroc, Royal Jordanian, SriLankan Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. Some limitations and exceptions may apply. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/benefits. Fiji Airways is a oneworld connect partner which provides select alliance benefits to oneworld members. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/oneworld-connect. For detailed information on the oneworld Lounge Access policy, visit https://www.oneworld.com/airport-lounges.
