Qantas Magazine - January 23

THE DREAMIEST VILLAS, MANSIONS AND PALAZZI

FRANCE’S SECOND CITY IS HAVING A MOMENT

LOCALS-ONLY HOTSPOTS, FROM MALTA TO SPAIN

YOUR NEXT SUMMER

THIS IS WHERE YOU NEED TO EAT IN LONDON

Electrifying performance

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With a powerful presence, wide stance and fowing lines — the Audi RS e-tron GT is designed to turn heads. With up to 475 kilowatts at your disposal, onlookers will have to turn quickly.

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25 The people, places and pop culture to put on your radar 48 Spotlight on the South Island, New Zealand: take the kids on high-adrenaline adventures

60 On The Menu: The Italian food revival 64 The Crowd-pleaser: Bánh mì pâté en croute at Aru 66 Best of: Surry Hills, NSW 68 The Pass: Pitfalls of menu translations 70 Local Heroes: Blue Mountains, NSW 72 Wine List: Arneis

76 Life’s a beach

90 The full English

Where Europeans head for a sea-and-sand escape

Come on a tour of London’s best eating and drinking spots 98 Land of hope

Discover the gastronomic bounty of revitalised Albania 108 To the manor reborn

Check in to these stunning new hotels, from Greece to Sweden 122 Southern charm

Feel the modern spirit of the transformed city of Marseilles

158 Words of Wisdom: Leaders from across business, the a rts and science share the books that inspired them

164 View From The Top: Michael Cheika, head coach, A rgentina national rugby union team and Lebanon national rugby league team

166 Small Business: The power of a well-crafted EDM

168 Upstart: Heaps Normal

170 C areer Path: Elizabeth Broderick, special rapporteur, United Nations Human Rights Council

172 Clock Wise: Dr Laurie Santos, psychology professor, Ya le University

Touring special report

131 Cool or classic, these are the hottest touring experiences

Design

142 On The Inside: Pa.te.os, Melides, Portugal

144 Creative Process: Shaun Daniel Allen (Shal)

146 Foundations: Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, Athens

148 The Statement: Atollo lamp

150 The Look: Men’s and women’s fashion

154 The Classic: Speedo

O n board

177 Inflight entertainment

182 Health, safety and security on board and when you land

186 Games

Celebrating 80 years of heritage and craftsmanship.

Editorial

Editor-in-Chief

Kirsten Galliott

Deputy Content Director

Faith Campbell

Content Manager

Natalie Reilly

Contributing Editors

Jessica Irvine

Di Webster

Digital and Content Operations Lead

Hana Jo

Online Editor

Christina Rae

Managing Editor, Qantas Hotels

Bridget de Maine

Digital Producer

Anneliese Beard

For editorial inquiries, contact: qantaseditorial@mediumrarecontent.com

Advertising

Head of Sales, Travel

Tony Trovato

+61 404 093 472

NSW Sales Manager

Callum Bean

+61 404 729 224

NSW Senior Account Manager

Crystal Wong

+61 420 558 697

National Advertising Manager, Business & Travel

Isabella Severino

+61 459 999 715

Qld, WA and SA Sales Manager

Sarah Harding +61 403 699 867

Head of Sales, Victoria

Chris Joy

+61 406 397 715

Senior Account Manager, Victoria Miranda Adofaci +61 410 387 707

Senior Account Manager, Victoria Jo Farrugia +61 450 968 882

Digital Sales Director

Mike Hanna +61 402 640 095

Digital Campaign Manager and Product Specialist

Anna Delgado +61 404 855 041

Creative Director

Tony Rice

Senior Designer

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Visual Director

Elizabeth Hachem

Copy Director

Rosemary Bruce

Deputy Copy Director

Sandra Bridekirk

Copy Editors

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Nick Hadley

Production Manager

Chrissy Fragkakis

International Representatives

Greater China and Japan

Peter Jeffery

+852 2850 4013

peterjeffery@asianimedia.com

South-East Asia and the UK

Nick Lockwood +65 9776 6255

nick.lockwood@ pharpartnerships.com

United States

Ralph Lockwood +1 408 879 6666

ralph.lockwood@ husonmedia.com

For advertising inquiries, contact: qantasadvertising@mediumrarecontent.com

Rare Creative Strategy and Partnerships

Head of Rare Creative Paulette Parisi Content and Partnerships Director Mark Brandon

Senior Content Editor Natalie Babic Senior Writer Terry Christodoulou Creative Director

Philippa Moffitt Designer Sophia Lau Strategy and Insights Director Jane Schofield Senior Strategy Manager Natalie Pizanis Commercial Insights Manager Molly Maguire Qantas Loyalty Partnerships Manager Alana Baird Qantas Partnerships Manager Emily Ryan Content and Events Campaign Manager Jessica Manson Campaign Producer Ben Woodard

For Rare Creative inquiries, contact: rarecreative@mediumrarecontent.com

Managing Director Nick Smith Chief Commercial Officer Fiorella Di Santo Head of Content, Travel Kirsten Galliott Digital Director Karla Courtney Head of Multimedia

Aidan Corrigan Head of Audience Intelligence

Catherine Ross Financial Controller

Leslie To Finance Manager Yane Chak Junior Accountant Yongjia Zhou

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FROM THE EDITOR

We all know travel is powerful. Tourism has long had an impact on communities through investment and employment opportunities. But as travel resets in the post-COVID era, this is becoming even more important as operators examine their social footprint.

Of course, some people have been doing this for decades. I’ve just had the (unbelievable) opportunity to witness this first-hand at two very different properties in South Africa.

At Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve, in the Greater Kruger National Reserve, the Loon family supports its local communities though digital academies and care centres for vulnerable youth. Guests pay a fee to visit villages and all of the money is funnelled back into four districts and spent in consultation with the chiefs so the communities are part of the decision-making. The Sabi Sabi Foundation’s latest effort? Providing a water tower and pump for the people of Marula village so they don’t have to walk two to three kilometres to access potable water.

In 1991, Michael Lutzeyer purchased 123 hectares of land on the southern tip of South Africa. Over the years he’s added to it and now has 3500 hectares of pristine wilderness in Gansbaai. His eco-reserve, Grootbos, is part of a fynbos biome that is one of six floral kingdoms in the world. Not only does Grootbos employ botanists and entymologists who are identifying new species and providing unique research opportunities, it has a program that trains 20 local people a year in horticulture and hospitality, has created a co-operative farm for food security and set up a football foundation to empower youth through sport.

Travel has always been a dream. The opportunity now is for travel to help realise dreams. I wonder if that will be a consideration for you as you plan your journeys in 2023?

I hope the new year brings you much happiness.

Kirsten Galliott Editor-in-Chief

kirstengalliott

Our writers are not armchair travellers. Rest assured any assistance we accept from the travel industry in the course of preparing our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.

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FROM THE CEO

After a very challenging few years for travel, it’s fantastic to be starting this year with much more certainty.

So what’s in store for customers? Geography and technology have always driven progress in aviation and 2023 will be no different. The first major shift has been more direct flights, as we challenge Australia’s tyranny of distance.

As we’ve restored our route map after COVID we’ve built on the success of our PerthLondon service with the addition of Perth-Rome, Melbourne-Dallas and direct flights to India. And in June we’ll start flying non-stop from Auckland to New York. These flights are steps towards Project Sunrise, our plan to fly direct from Australia’s east coast to the Big Apple and London from late 2025. We’ll be able to share details on the passenger experience on these flights soon. In the meantime, we have three additional Dreamliners arriving and several refreshed A380s returning to service this year, which will give us flexibility to operate other long-range routes. More capacity will also help bring down the price of fares. Towards the end of the year we’ll receive the first of our Airbus A220s, which will operate on our domestic network. These 137-seat jets can fly twice as far and use about 30 per cent less fuel than the Boeing 717s we currently fly.

Which brings me to the second big shift – making air travel more sustainable. While new aircraft will help reduce our emissions over the longer term, we know that sustainable aviation fuel (SAF) is the biggest lever we can pull. It can reduce emissions by up to 80 per cent and we’re already using it on flights out of Heathrow (with California flights to follow in 2025). Unfortunately, Australia is behind on the transition to biofuels like SAF, which is why we’ve created a US$200-million initiative with Airbus to kickstart a domestic industry, as well as talking with government.

In addition to these big shifts, you’ll also see lots of small improvements along the way to make your journey better, as we continue to reinvest as our recovery from the pandemic accelerates.

I hope you have a great journey and thanks for choosing Qantas.

Alan Joyce CEO, Qantas

New direct flights

Heading back to work is easier with a holiday on the horizon and three new Qantas routes offer exciting options for a getaway in 2023. You can now fly direct from Melbourne to Dallas-Fort Worth, from Brisbane to Tokyo and from Sydney to Seoul (above).

Connect to Qantas Fast and Free Wi-Fi

Once onboard, connect your own device to Qantas Free Wi-Fi on domestic flights in three simple steps:

Enable Aeroplane Mode and select the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network in your Wi-Fi settings.

Follow the prompts on the “Welcome Onboard” screen to connect.

Once you’re connected, you’re ready to access the internet and start exploring.

Having trouble connecting? Make sure you’re connected to the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network and go to wifi.qantas.com in your preferred browser to start the connection process. To ensure an enjoyable flight for everyone, keep flight mode activated, switch your device to silent and refrain from voice and video calls.

We acknowledge the Traditional Custodians of the land on which we work, live and fly. We pay our respects to Elders past and present and are committed to honouring Australian Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples’ unique cultural and spiritual relationship to the land and water.

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THE WAITLIST

NSW Petermen

Josh Niland heads over the Sydney Harbour Bridge and a Ballarat boutique hotel finally welcomes its anticipated restaurant.

NSW

When Dan Pepperell and the team from Pellegrino 2000 and Bistrot 916 launch a new venue, Sydneysiders will go to battle for a booking. So expect to join the city’s eating elite when Clam Bar opens next month at 44 Bridge Street in the CBD, the Art Deco

site of the former Bridge Room. The style is New York grill: steak, whole fish and a ton of fresh shellfish, almost certainly with some sort of Pepperell twist.

VIC Underbar

The relocation of stand-alone Ballarat restaurant Underbar

“The North Shore used to be home to more two- or three-hatted restaurants than the CBD, back in the ’80s and ’90s,” says Josh Niland (right). After a long lull, Niland thinks things are on the rise again, citing Rafi (rafisydney.com.au) in North Sydney and Loulou Bistro (loulou.sydney) in Milsons Point as recent examples.

But it’s been a while since “the other side of the bridge” has seen anything like Petermen (petermen. com.au), Josh and wife Julie’s second high-end eatery after award-winning Saint Peter in Paddington. Set to open next month, Petermen – the name comes from a traditional word for “fishermen” – seats about 60 and sits on a leafy corner in St Leonards. “It’s a beautiful location and an unbelievable footprint of a restaurant,” says Josh. “I just want to walk in and see people enjoying incredible Australian produce.”

The menu will be grouped under headings such as “fruits, vegetables and cheese” and “mollusca”, the latter including clams, squid and octopus. A typical dish might be a dry-aged coral trout, sliced and fanned into one of Josh’s inimitable plated artworks, with herbs and the trout’s offal as its centre. Another could be saltbush curry puffs – vegetarian items will play a big role – or whole roasted garlic that you squeeze for DIY garlic bread. What there won’t be much of is the “eyeball ice-cream” boundary-pushing that’s a major part of Saint Peter. “Experimental? No,” says the chef of Petermen. “Beautiful, timeless, simple ingredients? Yes.”

(underbar.com.au) to its new home in the boutique Hotel Vera had more than its share of pandemic-related delays. But now, headed up by Per Setrained Derek Boath and wine maestro Anthony Schuurs, it’s finally here. Seasonal, fresh and local is not a new concept but what these guys do with it is. Make a booking and find out.

WA Al Lupo

What’s summer without a new beach bar? North Fremantle’s latest is Al Lupo (allupobar.com).

It’s a simple formula: gorgeous space; fabulous wine, beer and cocktails; delicious share plates; and unbeatable views. Summer in a nutshell.

Take a seat

Clam Bar

MILDURA, VICTORIA

Life in this vibrant city revolves around the Murray River but its natural beauty and namesake cod aren’t the only attractions in town.

Corey Payne (above), a Paakantyi/Maraura man, moved from Broken Hill to Mildura in Victoria’s north-west 20 years ago and it’s the beauty around the Murray River that keeps him there. “The colours you see – not to mention the birdlife – are extraordinary and influence my work whether I realise it at the time or not,” explains the artist behind Miiki Puuri Mandi Aboriginal Art in the regional city. “Plus, it’s only a short distance from Broken Hill so it’s easy to maintain my Country connection.” Here, he shares some of his favourite places in town.

Woodsies Gem Shop

“A gold coin donation gets you into a little-known cave inside Woodsies Gem Shop (woodsies gemshop.com), where you find displays of the world’s minerals. If you’re feeling lucky, you can also complete the garden maze outside. My sons and I must have gone through it 100 times but we still make mistakes and get lost. Fortunately, there’s a gate…”

Lock 11

“There’s nothing I love more than being on Country down by the river so between December and August, you’ll find me by Lock 11 trying to catch the

legendary Murray cod. I seem to have more luck when I cross the George Chaffey Bridge away from Mildura and back into my own Country. If people aren’t into fishing, I recommend heading down to Lock 11 for the walking trail that snakes around the riverfront.”

Perry Sandhills

“The Perry Sandhills are technically in Wentworth, 35 minutes away, but it’s a special place for my people. Like Mungo National Park, the sandhills change daily with the winds so every experience feels like new. What I love is the energy linked to the people who use them. There’s a shed where people hang up old pieces of cardboard and, occasionally, old toboggans, for others to use. My boys and I slide down the sandhills on these pieces of cardboard for hours then we hang them back up so they’re ready for the next family. It’s a lovely thing to be a part of.”

MONA FOMA, TASMANIA

The one-of-a-kind summer festival returns, bringing a heady mix of art, music, theatre and woodchopping to the Apple Isle.

Bassist Brian Ritchie is on tour somewhere in the United States with his band, The Violent Femmes, but he’s only too happy to talk about his beloved adopted home of Tasmania (lutruwita). It’s this surprising-yet-somehow-perfect clash of rockstar energy and the southernmost state’s wholesomeness that imbues MONA FOMA (monafoma.net.au), the annual festival Ritchie has curated since 2009, with its unique vibe.

“The main goal is to rub music, art, dance, spoken word and new media up against each other until there’s no longer any boundary between them,” he says of the festival’s eclectic scope.

And examples of this alchemy are all around. With international artists back on the line-up for 2023, the dual-city event (Launceston, 17 to 19 February; Hobart/ nipaluna, 24 to 26 February) sees cuttingedge ideas backlit by the bucolic.

For instance, there’s this year’s location in Launceston – an unoccupied old TAFE building taken over for the weekend’s program. “We’ll be using the quadrangle for large outdoor shows from internationals, such as The Chills, Perturbator and my favourite Renaissance-scale talent, Kae Tempest,” says Ritchie.

Non-musical acts include The Queer Woodchop 2023 – a woodchopping competition meets joyous queer festivity – and Breakfast In Bed, which is part social experiment, part absurdist theatre. Indie rock band Pavement joins the program on the lawns of MONA in Hobart and Grammy Award-winning band Bon Iver performs for one night at nearby MyState Bank Arena.

(Clockwise from top left) Bon Iver, Kae Tempest, Pavement and The Chills will all perform during the festival

Make it a weekend… (or a week)

Launceston’s moody, luxe Hotel Verge (hotel.qantas.com.au/ hotelverge) is a minimalist haven of exposed concrete and timber. Retire here after sampling the offerings from local favourites Havilah Wines and Two Tonne Tasmania (as well as a grilled octopus with chickpeas and kale that’ll make you weep with joy into your pinot gris) at cellardoor-cum-kitchen Havilah (above; havilahwine.com.au), a 15-minute walk from the hotel.

Down the isle in Hobart, head to Fico (ficofico.net), the two-hatted culinary institution of Oskar Rossi (ex-Vue de Monde) and Federica Andrisani. Its ever-changing menu showcases Tassie produce – local sea urchin, truffles and pigeon, to name a few. When it’s time to turn in, The Tasman (hotel.qantas.com. au/thetasman) has a treasure trove of opulence behind its Georgian sandstone façade, including the Bramble cocktail at in-house bar Mary Mary, made with Derwent Valley cherries, gin, lemon and anise.

AROUND THE COUNTRY

Canberra Yotam Ottolenghi 21 January

On the first stop of his Australia-wide Flavour of Life tour, acclaimed chef Yotam Ottolenghi is not cooking food but talking about it – how he started and prospered, his influences and the ingredients and flavours that excite him.

ottolenghi.com.au

Adelaide Santos Tour Down Under 13-22 January

Sure, there’s cycling at the opening event of the Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI) World Tour but there’s also live music, street parties and the chance to savour the best South Australian food and wine as you follow the riders through each gruelling stage.

tourdownunder.com.au

Sydney Sydney Festival 5-29 January

It’s that time of the year again, when the spotlight moves from Sydney’s natural attractions to its deep well of culture and creativity. The highlights for 2023 include a Frida Kahlo exhibition, a spectacular performance of African circus arts, Afrique en Cirque, and the free family water-play installation, Cupid’s Koi Garden sydneyfestival.org.au

Melbourne Monet & Friends Until 30 June

Immerse yourself in French Impressionism at The Lume as iconic paintings are projected onto the gallery walls and floor. You can wade through Monet’s Water Lilies and perform a pas de deux alongside Degas’ ballerinas.

thelumemelbourne.com

Books

STORY BY MICHAEL WILLIAMS

WELL READ

From the latest novels to classic books worth discovering, these are the page-turning picks for the month.

The book everyone is reading Don Watson is well-known for his biography of Paul Keating (Recollections of a Bleeding Heart) and his countless other books on subjects as diverse as modern language and the bush. The new major work from one of our finest thinkers, The Passion of Private White explores the collision between biologist and anthropologist Neville White and the Yolngu clans of Donydji in north-east Arnhem Land. A story of the colonised and the colonisers, trauma and dispossession, adaptation and country, this is a work of Australian history that is intimate in focus and epic in ambition.

The book you should be reading

This one is for reading at the tail end of January, when summer relaxation starts to fade and the battle with motivation for the year ahead takes hold. Ellie Hopley is a Gold Coast-based artist better known on Instagram as @Shuturp. Hey You! Keep Going is a playful and spiky set of illustrations that might not meet the conventional thresholds for self-help but is guaranteed to inspire and energise you into tackling 2023 with gusto. Give it to someone whose spirits are a little low and Hopley will be a delightful salve. Your career, socialising, relationships, just being in the world – this book is sure to keep you going.

The non-fiction to know about Janet Malcolm , who died in 2021, was a giant of American journalism and letters. From reportage and biography to personal reflections and criticism, she was peerless in the power of her observations and the precision of her pen. Still Pictures: On Photography and Memory is her memoir – spanning Europe to New York, across decades and achievements – and it’s as witty, compelling and honest as Malcolm herself was.

The Australian book to read now Warm and celebratory, with indelible characters, Happy Hour, Jacquie Byron’s debut novel, is the ultimate holiday read. Franny Calderwood has lost her husband and decides to focus on her two dogs (Whisky and Soda) and deliberate solitude. But, of course, the new neighbours are set to challenge that. Not so much a feel-good read as a feel-glorious one.

The classic to revisit Find a copy of Hating Alison Ashley by Robin Klein and read it to your kids. Or to yourself. It’s an Australian classic for young adults, hilarously funny and enduringly enjoyable. You’ll meet teenagers Erica Yurken, Alison Ashley, Barry Hollis and the other kids of Barringa East. If you have memories of this 1984 book, it stands the test of time and will delight new generations.

Right now, I’m streaming…

The last book I read…

The Crown, which I’m absolutely loving. I’m a huge Imelda Staunton fan and she’s playing the Queen, and I think Elizabeth Debicki is just sensational as Diana. I also binged The Watcher with my partner, Jack Stratton-Smith. The house in it was stunning. After watching the first episode, I told him, “Oh my God, we need to get a holiday house!” But by the end of the series, I was like, “Under no circumstances are we to buy a holiday house.” It was way too scary.

Was an absolute piece of crap I finished while on holiday in Singapore so I won’t mention what it was called. I really only read when I have time, which is when I’m on holiday, otherwise I read websites like Pedestrian and LADbible.

The podcast I keep going back to...

Joel Creasey

The comedian, actor and co-host of Nova FM’s national radio show Kate, Tim & Joel will be hosting Qantas’ WorldPride Flight next month. He tells us what keeps him occupied on the ground.

The last movie I watched…

The app I use the most…

Is called Gasbagging. I’m a Real Housewives, Below Deck kinda guy and it’s basically a Real Housewives recap podcast but they cover all of reality TV and it’s very funny. It’s hosted by this Sydney guy, Dan Morrison. I’ve never done this in my life but I actually messaged him and asked if I could be a guest on it! And I know this is really daggy but every night in bed I put my AirPods in and drift off to the audiobook of Harry Potter. It takes me back to my childhood, that magical escapism –it’s very soothing.

It was one with Naomi Watts called The Desperate Hour, about a school shooting. It was very heavy but great.

I’m still on Twitter and so far it’s been a great source for news. I wake up every morning and check it. I also like Instagram – it’s the friendliest social media app in my experience. But I also love, love, love planes. If there’s a plane flying over I can pretty much tell you what time it’s landing or what time it took off and where it’s going. So I love Qantas –and I love One Mile at a Time and follow The Points Guy.

BUNDEENA, NSW

Just over an hour’s drive south of Sydney, this village is a haven of outdoor adventure. But where to start – river, beach or bushland?

Grab a bite at a dance hall

Getting to Bundeena means driving through the Royal National Park and past the small yet charming village of Audley. Allow yourself time to stop for a coffee and something to eat at Audley Dance Hall Café (audleydancehall. com.au), next to the visitor centre. Here you’ll find large plates of top pub-style fare, from ricotta pancakes with pistachio cream and blueberry compote or eggs with chargrilled sourdough at breakfast, to a warm pumpkin salad, Angus beef burger or fish and chips for lunch. The outdoor tables offer views of the surrounding parkland and bush but be prepared to swat away brazen cockatoos, magpies and kookaburras.

Paddle through wilderness

To navigate the Royal National Park on the water is to see it at its wildest –and most beautiful. Rent a kayak or paddleboard from Bundeena Kayaks (bundeenakayaks.com.au) then glide along quiet stretches of the Port Hacking River, where native grasses kiss the water’s edge and gnarled eucalyptus branches stretch out overhead (it’s silent save for the twittering of birds). The company runs daily guided tours and operates seven days a week (weather permitting) from the Bonnie Vale picnic

area, which borders the sheltered, shallow waters of Simpsons Bay.

Hike to Aboriginal rock carvings

The crescent-shaped Jibbon Beach takes its name from the Dharawal word djeeban, which means “sandbar at low tide”. It marks the start, at the corner of Neil and Loftus streets, of the fivekilometre Jibbon Loop Track, an easy two-hour walk through the national park, encompassing sand, bush and coastal clifftops. You’ll pass a midden used for millennia by the Dharawal people and a clearing where they regularly camped. At about the halfway point,

the trail forks – the left path takes you to a nudist beach, while the right one leads to ancient Aboriginal rock carvings that depict figures including a stingray and kangaroos.

Go whale-watching

Seeing a humpback whale breach the waves is a regular occurrence around here during winter. The clifftops along the Jibbon Loop Track are a prime whale-watching spot (you might see minkes or orcas and dolphins). For a closer view of the action, Cronulla Whale Watching (cronullawhalewatching. com.au) takes tours from

June to October on its purpose-built 55-foot boat. It leaves from Cronulla Wharf, a 30-minute ride away on the Bundeena ferry, the MV Curranulla (cronullaferries.com.au).

The handsome 1939 timber vessel is an attraction in its own right and a great way to get to Bundeena if you don’t want to drive.

Spend the night in a historic cottage

The scent of dried eucalyptus leaves fills every room of Simpson Cottage (simpson cottage.com.au). Built in the 1860s, the three-bedroom sandstone house was once the home of the local ferry master. Now, it’s an artfully styled holiday rental where you’ll sleep between European linen bed sheets and wake up to sunlight streaming through curtains and birdsong. With few restaurants and cafés nearby, make use of the barbecue and kitchen before enjoying breakfast in the gazebo, lunch at the wooden picnic table overlooking the bay and dinner by the cast-iron firepit on the patio. If the weather’s fine, you can throw a picnic rug out on the manicured lawn. At the bottom of the garden, there’s a 50-metre track that goes directly to Bonnie Vale Beach, where the water is usually flat, calm and more familyfriendly than Bundeena’s main beach.

The beach (opposite) near Simpson Cottage (top); paddleboarding on the Port Hacking River (above)

The Edit COMPILED BY NATALIE REILLY

MAKING THE CUT

We’ve scanned the zeitgeist for what to read, watch, wear and drink now.

Beauty

Celebrate Lunar New Year this month with gorgeously packaged beauty products designed to mark the occasion. Try Jurlique’s Exclusive Edition Rose Body Oil (right, $99 for 200ml; jurlique.com.au) created in collaboration with Brighton-based artist Tiffany Lynch. Or Guerlain’s Rouge G Red Orchid Collection , which includes a lipstick, blush and eyeshadow, inspired by the exotic flower.

Movie

Set in the 1920s, when the movie industry in Los Angeles was entering its golden era, Babylon swirls with hedonistic debauchery and filthy ambition and a mess of power – illusory and corporate.

Directed by Damien Chazelle, who won an Oscar for 2016’s La La Land , this film could be seen as its prequel. Brad Pitt stars as a Clark Gable type at the top of his game and Margot Robbie as an actress new to Tinseltown. In cinemas 19 January.

Podcast

The creators of the Serial podcast, which was downloaded 300 million times, unveiled another, more personal pod in October, about a family torn apart by COVID conspiracies. We Were Three tells the story of Rachel McKibbens, who learnt of her father’s death from the virus via a text from her brother. Two weeks later, the brother died of COVID. Rachel had no idea either one was sick but began to piece together the horrible reality.

Book

The man formerly known as Prince Harry has penned his memoir, Spare , named in part for his mother, Diana, who tried to protect her sons from being labelled “an heir and a spare”, a term for royal children. And it’s Diana’s life and death that loom large in Harry’s explanation of what drove him and his wife, Meghan Markle, to step down as working royals and leave London for Los Angeles. In bookstores 11 January.

Style

Blame it on the rain that’s been drenching the eastern states but this summer, fashion has gone on vacation, with Australian designers rolling out bold prints, fruity flowers and tropical motifs. Take this Alémais shirtdress (above, $475; alemais.com) and Palm Noosa’s Souvenir seashell dress ($320; palmnoosa.com.au). Leo Lin has brought out a Roman Holiday line, with pieces in the Fiesta print real showstoppers (leolinofficial.com.au).

Drink

Planning to give up booze for the new year? Picking up a six-pack of Blue Circle Cold Brew ( bluecirclecoldbrew.com) might help. It’s small-batch cold brew coffee made using organic beans, which are brewed, cooled then canned without using nitrogen or additives such as sugar and preservatives.

Beau Brummell Introductions founders Vinko Anthony and Andrea Zaza, photo by

PORSCHE 911 CARRERA T

The new addition to the legendary 911 line-up is for those who enjoy something on the lighter side.

A new 911 Carrera? Consider this the 911 for those who enjoy driving in its purest form but without the face-melting speeds. Tell us more… The Carrera T is lighter, more focused in feel and comes with an increasingly rare seven-speed manual as standard (though an eightspeed Porsche Doppelkupplung auto transmission is also available for nix). So where does it sit in the 911 line-up? Between the entry-level 911 Carrera and the mid-tier 911 Carrera S, which is reflected in the T’s sportiest features. For example, the Carrera T offers Porsche’s stellar Active Suspension Management (PASM), which drops it by 10 millimetres, as standard and a mechanical limited slip differential, both of which can be found on the Carrera S but not the 911 Carrera. Throw in rear-wheel steering and 18-way electric seats or lightweight full bucket seats as options, plus some weight-shaving techniques applied in the glass, battery and insulation, and you have a very fun piece of kit. How fast are we talking? The Carrera T utilises the 911 series’ entry-level six-cylinder boxer engine in its most lightweight form. It’s exquisitely melodic and can produce 283kW/450Nm, resulting in a top speed of 291km/h and 0-100km/h acceleration of 4.5 seconds. And what price is this pleasure? From $280,600, plus on-road costs. porsche.com

NAUTICAL STYLE

For more than 150 years, Swiss watchmaker IWC has created professional instrument watches that are both robust and highly engineered. Building on that legacy – and speaking directly to the modern mariner with superyacht ambitions – the brand has introduced the Portugieser Chronograph 69355 calibre, a sleek update on the traditional marine watch. Originally inspired by observation watches, this model’s “panda” face of contrasting white and blue dials nods to its nautical heritage, while its durable rubber strap offers a sporty update for summer.

The case

The Portugieser Chronograph watch features a 41-millimetre case made of stainless steel with a see-through sapphire glass back that provides a clear view of its decorated movement. It’s water-resistant to 30 metres, which means it can withstand an ocean splash but not deep-sea diving.

The dial

The Chronograph IW371620 model’s crisp white dial sports blue Arabic numerals and blued-steel feuille hands, with a blue minutes subdial at 12 o’clock and a seconds subdial at six o’clock. The subdials have an “azurage” finish, while the white dial has a polished lacquer finish with an anti-reflective coating.

The movement

The IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, made at the brand’s Schaffhausen base in north-eastern Switzerland, has automatic winding and a power reserve of 46 hours. The refined chronograph movement is in a classic column-wheel design and is visible from the underside of the watch.

The band

The flexible and durable 20-millimetre blue rubber strap speaks to its sports watch categorisation and the pin buckle allows it to be worn on multiple wrist sizes. The result is seafaring sophistication.

The price

IWC Portugieser Chronograph 69355 calibre IW371620 watch / $13,200 / iwc.com

When you think of Cartier, punk probably isn’t the first thing that comes to mind. But that’s exactly the point of the latest iteration from the maison’s Clash de Cartier collection, which marries traditionalism with a modern edge and looks tough but is soft to the touch. The signature picot studs are buffed to a warm glow and, alongside the ring’s rose-gold, are mirrored in round onyx beads. Combined with the sparkling bands of pavé diamonds, it’s an elegant mix of classic and cool.

Clash de Cartier rose-gold, onyx and diamond ring / $19,500 / cartier.com.au

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ADVANTAGE MELBOURNE

In the city for the Australian Open (16 to 29 January)? The Victorian capital delivers plenty of après-tennis fun.

The

stay

Embracing skyscraper vistas, the CBD’s latest five-star hotel, Voco (below; hotel.qantas.com. au/vocomelbourne), provides Melbourne’s famous quirk with avian-themed works by local artists. It’s close to leading restaurants such as Tipo 00 (tipo00.com.au) and Miznon (miznonaustralia.com) but there’s no need to rush out – Voco’s Blacksmith Brasserie and Bar has a fire-licked all-day menu and a sweeping alfresco terrace.

The outdoor bar

The city’s favourite summer party palace, Arbory Afloat (arboryafloat.com.au), has returned to its Princes Bridge pontoon, this year rocking a bohemian Balearic Beach Club theme. Palm trees, a swimming pool and dreamy cabanas capture the spirit of Spanish sunshine, as do jugs of sangria, savoury churros and lobster paella.

The small bites

Art Deco style takes on a Middle Eastern accent at Jayda (barjayda.com.au), the latest addition to chef Shane Delia’s growing empire. Next door to his CBD restaurant Maha, it’s the place for a Negroni made with rosehip, strawberry and dehydrated yoghurt, and elegant snacks such as a kingfish, lime and taramasalata tart.

The dinner

At South Yarra’s subterranean mod-Japanese dining den, Yūgen (yugendining.com.au), stone walls and glowing gold accents are the glamorous backdrop to the meticulous creations of “sashimi florist” Alex Yu (ex-Sokyo in Sydney). Each platter is a stunning display of premium seafood, such as scampi, abalone and uni, while the supper menu will fuel you late into the night with rock lobster buns and garlic soy fried chicken wings.

The dessert

Filipino food is flavour of the month at gelateria Kariton Sorbetes (karitonsorbetes.com). Dubbed “the Asian Messina”, the button-cute CBD and Footscray branches offer leche flan (crème caramel), ube halaya (purple yam) and durian gelato. Order yours tucked into a soft pandesal bun for added authenticity.

The exhibit

The life and work of the late British fashion designer Alexander McQueen are celebrated in the National Gallery of Victoria’s summer blockbuster. Mind, Mythos, Muse (ngv.vic.gov.au) features more than 120 garments and accessories from the enfant terrible, along with artworks giving insight into McQueen’s boundary-pushing creativity.

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Simon Griffiths Going from novel concept to necessity at warp speed allowed one Australian startup to donate millions to sanitation projects in developing countries.

The pandemic taught us the impact of exponential growth but for subscription-based toilet paper social enterprise Who Gives A Crap (whogivesacrap.org), rapidly rising numbers weren’t relegated to press conferences. “On 1 March 2020, we were doing twice our regular day of sales, 2 March it was four or five times, 3 March it was 12,” recalls Simon Griffiths, CEO and co-founder. “By 4 March, we were at 30 to 40 times a regular day of sales – more than a month of sales in a day.”

It didn’t stop there. At one point the B-Corp certified company, which donates 50 per cent of its profits to sanitation projects in developing countries, was slinging 28 rolls of toilet paper a second. While bewildered shoppers stared at empty supermarket shelves, the firm’s waiting list swelled to more than 500,000 people.

Griffiths baulks at suggestions that the company he founded with Danny Alexander and Jehan Ratnatunga was a “winner” in the COVID carnage. He says that supply chain issues and staff burnout risks tempered its stratospheric sales increases. Still, the $5.85 million the outfit was able to donate at the end of June 2020 made for a decent cherry. And in its first-ever funding round last year, a host of local and international investors wanted a bite. Atlassian co-founder and co-CEO Mike Cannon-Brookes, Canva’s Cameron Adams and Adore Beauty founders Kate Morris and James Height are just a few notable high-profile contributors who added to the $41.5 million capital raised.

It’s money earmarked for expansion – the ultimate goal being to help the two billion people currently without access to basic sanitation. “If we’re going to put a serious dent in that problem, we have to take our donations from millions of dollars to billions of dollars a year,” says Griffiths.

It’s an ambitious plan. But if anyone can pull it off, it might be the company that answers the question its name poses.

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(From left) Who Gives

A Crap founders Danny Alexander, Simon Griffiths and Jehan Ratnatunga

South Island, New Zealand

A trip to Queenstown and its mountainous surrounds with a pair of hard-to-impress teens means seeking out the most adrenaline-spiking holiday activities.

Go where the crowds can’t find you in Wānaka

“The definition of adventure,” states Neil, our septuagenarian guide, as he expertly coaxes our 4WD down a precarious dirt track hewn into the side of a mountain, “is a physical activity with an uncertain outcome.”

By that definition alone, my wife, Shay, our kids Rosie, 13, and Flynn, 14, and I are very definitely mid-adventure: a vertiginous drop to the turquoise waters of Lake Hāwea looms out of the left-hand-side windows of our ride.

We’re heading off the beaten track in the South Island’s tourism mecca of Wānaka under the guidance of a still-sprightly former highlands shepherd. “I ran sheep up these mountains for nearly 20 years,” says Neil as he takes us to the isolated sheep station of Dingleburn – one of several hidden destinations you can visit with local outfit Ridgeline Adventures (ridgelinenz.com).

After a brisk hike to a hilltop that affords a stunning 360-degree vista, we find a spot down by the lake for a picnic in the sun and relax on camp chairs as the kids skim stones across the glassy surface.

Discover a new way to hit the slopes

The thing about skiing that I’ve never understood is its ridiculously high barrier to entry. Long before hopping on a chairlift to take in those magnificent mountains, I’ve had to re-mortgage the house for gear rental, exchange my left kidney for lift passes and surrender my youngest child as surety for a pair of slightly dank ski boots.

Enter the Yooner (yooner.co.nz), a sit-down luge contraption that’s causing a user-friendly revolution on the ski slopes of The Remarkables and Coronet Peak in Queenstown. Inspired by the paret – a traditional sledge French kids once used to commute to their Alpine schools – it’s comprised of a single short ski attached to a steering stick that pokes up between your thighs and a small seat upon which to rest your lazy, grateful butt.

A 30-minute Yooner tutorial is all it takes for even the most inexperienced snow rabbit to go from bunny slopes to blue runs – as we all happily learn. After that, we plonk ourselves down at the crest of a snow-capped peak, point our toes to the sky, take

Milford Sound

a deep breath and, as our infectiously enthusiastic guide, Tuki, instructs: “Let gravity – and the Yooner – do the rest.”

Our teens, both novices on the snow, are quickly carving with the best of them. My wife executes each run with her trademark panache. In my enthusiasm, I accidentally take out an unsuspecting snowboarder. But, good news: the low-centre of gravity means that when I fall – and inevitably I do – it’s about as elegant a snow tumble as I could ever hope to manage. Easily the most fun you can have sitting down in the snow.

Explore Queenstown’s cool cousin, Te Anau

Described by locals as “what Queenstown was like 20 years ago”, the township of Te Anau, with its laid-back feel, stunning lakeside position and wellspring of thrill-seeking attractions is a low-key alternative to its better-known neighbour.

Yes, you could join the throngs jet boating the Shotover River in Queenstown or, like we do, you could sign up with Fiordland Jet (fjet.nz) for a more personalised jet boat experience, with a nature twist, just two hours by car south of the adventure capital.

We skid along the Waiau River past instantly recognisable Lord of the Rings film locations before arriving on the vast, deserted expanse of Lake Manapouri. The motor is cut so that the only sound is the gentle lapping of water on the bow. Our guide points out an island in the distance – a “kiwi crèche” where an effort is underway to rehabilitate the endangered Haast tokoeka kiwi.

We pull up on a beach and stroll along a rainforest stretch of the Kepler Track before returning to base in another thrilling ride, complete with enough trademark 360-degree spins to make a couple of teenagers grin from ear to ear. Once there, we jump on e-bikes to make the lakeside cycle back into town and I’m reminded of the secret to any good family holiday with kids: wear them out.

Climb a waterfall in Mount Aspiring National Park

I’m 330 metres up a cliff face, clinging to an iron rung that’s hammered into rock. Shay and Flynn are four rungs ahead of me, Rosie is two rungs behind them and I’m doing my best to look nonchalant bringing up the rear. As a waterfall tumbles within arm’s reach beside us, crashing onto rocks below, it occurs to me

Lake Te Anau from the Kepler Track (left); Yooner skiing in Queenstown (above)

that I can’t remember the last time I felt quite this petrified. “You could lean back into your harness and go hands-free here,” offers our guide, Mark, an experienced mountaineer and owneroperator of Wildwire Wanaka (wildwire.co.nz), the world’s highest waterfall cable climb. “It’s quite the rush.” I remain resolutely, white-knuckle-attached to my rung, happy to take his word for it.

Called via ferrata (Italian for “iron path”), this ascent is actually as safe as rock climbing gets. Over four hours of meticulously attaching, detaching then re-attaching our climbing harnesses to a series of cables and rungs, we scale a sheer cliff face, despite having absolutely zero experience. The kids – hard to impress at the best of times – do their utmost to seem unmoved but the wildly shaking leg of my son and the rictus smile of my daughter tell another story. This is family bonding of the most extreme kind.

When we finally reach the top, we’re rewarded with epic views and an immense sense of achievement. For a fleeting moment, I even appear to have risen in my teenage son’s estimation –morphing from embarrassing fuddy-duddy to vaguely cool action man. I savour it, knowing it won’t be long before I’m brought back down to earth.

Hear icebergs in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park

The most impressive thing about being in close proximity to New Zealand’s largest glacier is not the sight of all that ice, concertinaed over centuries, awesome though that is. It’s the sound. Every 20 minutes or so, a loud crack or low rumble reminds you of the slow march the Tasman Glacier is on, grinding away at stone as it carves out a valley.

The Glacier Explorers tour that runs out of the historic Hermitage hotel (hermitage.co.nz) in the spectacular Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park takes us on a boat trip onto one of the world’s few accessible glacial lakes with icebergs. Lucky participants will witness great chunks of ice shear off the 23-kilometre glacier’s face and crash into the water. For me and my daughter, it’s awe-inspiring enough just to motor through an eerie graveyard of icebergs drifting in the milky waters of Tasman Lake, shape-shifting as they slowly melt.

“I can’t believe I’m touching an iceberg!” exclaims Rosie as our guide manoeuvres the boat to within arm’s reach of a floating giant and breaks off a shard to show us. “This piece of ice could be thousands of years old!”

Mount Aspiring National Park

Later, we retreat to the bar that adjoins the Hermitage’s Alpine restaurant. Taking a seat by the fire with a glass of local pinot noir (that’s for me), we stare through floor-to-ceiling windows as the last of the day’s light plays on the mountain peak.

Sleep on Milford Sound

There ought to be a sealed section of the English dictionary full of superlatives reserved solely for Milford Sound. Because once you’ve experienced it first-hand, descriptors you’ve used all your life – magnificent, breathtaking, incredible – will seem inadequate to the task of properly capturing its beauty.

During the day, the sound is a hive of tourist activity as boats laden with camera-wielding daytrippers queue patiently to poke their bows into the spray of Stirling Falls. But by virtue of casting off late afternoon (when most other boats are returning to dock to disgorge their human cargo into a waiting convoy of coaches for the four-hour trip back to Queenstown), an overnight cruise on the

Milford Mariner (realnz.com) offers a more exclusive, leisurely passport to one of New Zealand’s most popular attractions.

With its 28 cabins, the ship can host up to 64 guests. But even at capacity, it’s big enough that you never feel crowded. Our party includes a honeymooning couple from Brisbane, three generations of an extended family from Canada, a father-and-son duo from New York and a group of friends from Melbourne.

After watching the sun set on Mitre Peak, we launch kayaks in blissful silence in Harrison Cove which, according to our guide, is one of only two places in the world where rainforest, fjord and glacier meet. Paddling on the sound’s glassy waters as a penguin breaches the surface nearby before rock-hopping its way to its nest for the night is magical.

Later, after a gourmet buffet dinner, we head up on deck and throw back our heads to stare at a sky blanketed with stars. And as we settle into our family cabin and prepare for sleep, Rosie swings her head over the bunk bed rail above and softly whispers: “Dad, best holiday ever.”

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Chef and owner Orazio D’Elia (second from left) at Da Orazio, Bondi Beach

LOUCAS

THE RENAISSANCE

Australia’s love of Italian food rarely wanes but right now there’s more amore than ever before.

“Italians are like mushrooms. We pop up everywhere,” says chef Orazio D’Elia, who opened Da Orazio (daorazio.com.au), a lively pizza and porchetta palace in Bondi Beach in March last year and, soon after, Ori’s Bar, its little sibling that is all about fresh-off-thebeach drinks and snacks. D’Elia has been mushrooming around Sydney’s Italo-Australian restaurant scene for nearly 20 years, from the original Icebergs Dining Room and Bar to Matteo in Double Bay and the departed Popolo.

D’Elia isn’t the only everything-old-is-new-again chef clanging pasta extruders and pizza pans in the post-pandemic wave of Italian restaurant openings around Australia. In Sydney’s Elizabeth Bay, Barry McDonald, the maestro behind the original Fratelli Fresh and Café Sopra, has opened Bar Grazie (bargrazie.com.au), where classics such as saltimbocca alla Romana and extravagant bistecca alla Florentina are matched with a wine list of unapologetic old-world big names. Meanwhile, D’Elia’s former business partner, Maurice Terzini, has injected fresh life into a reopened Icebergs (idrb.com), giving head chef Alex Prichard the same brief he stamps on all his past success stories, from the Melbourne Wine Room to The Dolphin in Sydney’s Surry Hills: “Flavours my parents would recognise but food they wouldn’t cook.”

The mantra of Icebergs is to “embrace our traditional background but also reflect who we are. Everything we cook is sourced from here – the only things we bring in from Italy are the anchovies, the balsamic and the parmigiana Reggiano,” promises Terzini. “We don’t need to import pure bloody water or special rice from Italy and have it sit in a container for six months. Italian food is about sourcing from where you are. That’s our version of Italo-Oz cucine.”

If this is a “new wave”, you could loosely call the first wave the migrants who appeared after WWII and adopted Melbourne’s Lygon Street and Sydney’s Leichhardt as their spiritual homes. The unofficial second wave broke in the ’80s and ’90s – Café di Stasio in Melbourne, Buon Ricordo in Sydney – and then a third wave

Spaghetti alla Nerano at Da Orazio

was led by the tear-up-the-rulebook stylings of Terzini and co. in the 2000s, later joined by Italian-ish cuisine-clashers such as Sydney’s now defunct Acme and Hobart’s still-thriving Fico.

But the latest openings aren’t just about the old guard reinventing themselves or going back to their roots. Lesser-known names are coming out swinging. Testun Bar (testun.com.au) in Perth calls itself a “Neo-Italo neighbourhood osteria”, creating Mozzarella Martinis and house-cured meats served on toffee-pickled mussels and focaccia. In the Jonson Lane precinct in Byron Bay, chef Matteo Tine, who cranked out the classics at Melbourne’s Grossi Florentino for 13 years, is now on the pans at Pixie (pixiebyronbay.com.au), which he describes as “modern Italian with a vintage kick”. Tine’s sfinci – Sicilian donuts – aren’t sweet. Instead, he fills them with cacio e pepe sauce and adds a cape of air-dried Wagyu bresaola. He’s even made an Italian-style kimchi. “I like to say that when I cook I’m walking a dog and that dog is Italian food,” he says. “I have that dog on a leash – that’s when I’m being super traditional – but I also have to let that dog wander away a bit.” Not too far though, he adds with a laugh, or “you lose your dog”. Whether they have a firm grip on the lead or are letting the dog race off, this new restaurant wave has a binding thread. “We’re Italian. We talk with our hands. We sometimes turn the music up a little too loud,” says Orazio D’Elia. “But that’s how you know something’s going on. Italian restaurants aren’t just about food.”

Try these…

Sydney

Pellegrino 2000

No-one plays tastebud tricks like chef Dan Pepperell. In his hands, a basic plate of eggplant fritti is the most crisp, most flavourful eggplant fritti you’ve ever eaten. A dish of octopus and chickpeas has a buttery, lemony elevation that amps its humble main ingredients to unheard-of heights. And that’s before you even get to the wonton-wrapped prawn ravioli. Take a tip and book months in advance to try his tiny corner trattoria (pellegrino2000.com) in Surry Hills.

Sydney Fontana

The band from Sydney’s beloved pop-up, Don Peppino’s, is back together again and they’re doing simple, sexy, regional Italian con brio in Redfern (clubfontana.com). Make sure you order the freshly made ricotta plus the ceci e tria chickpea pasta (a Peppino’s crowd favourite) and round things off with a glass of amaro at the bar.

Sydney Enoteca Ponti

Lasagne spring roll? If you find yourself wondering if that sounds delicious or monstrous, this boundary-pushing Potts Point wine bar (enotecaponti.com) from the team behind Bistro Rex has the answer. Pastas play more by the rule book, including a gorgeous wild boar pappardelle.

Melbourne Osteria Renata

South Melbourne’s Park Street Pasta & Wine won the hearts of locals with a short menu of fresh pasta and excellent Italian drops, and now Prahran has a taste of what the team can do (osteriarenata.com.au). There’s not as much pasta but what there is you should order, particularly anything filled. The kitchen also does a cracking rump cap bistecca.

Melbourne Di Stasio Pizzeria

It’s impossible to imagine Rinaldo “Ronnie” di Stasio putting a foot wrong and with his newest venue in Carlton (distasio.com.au), it’s clear he’s in fine form. It’s casual, colourful

and a crowd favourite, with perfect pizzas crafted by chef Federico Congiu. Despite the name, there’s plenty more on the menu, including bright Roman primavera stew and decadent Sicilian pastries.

Melbourne Figlia

This modern Lygon Street bistro (figlia.com.au) in Brunswick East from the team behind the city’s beloved Tipo 00 offers a solid snack menu – Tassie scallops skewered and barbecued with

a bubbling bagna cauda are not to be missed – plus excellent pizza and secondi in a cool industrial space.

Brisbane Ramona Trattoria

The chance to try chef Ashley-Maree Kent’s handshaped pasta and pizza may lure you to this homely trattoria (ramonatrattoria.com) in Coorparoo but it’s the welcoming family atmosphere that makes you stay. The menu is comfortingly classic and

delightfully executed: in short, it’s everything you want in a neighbourhood Italian joint.

Hobart Peppina

Another restaurant that redefines hotel dining, chef Massimo Mele’s Peppina (peppinarestaurant.com), inside the glamorous Tasman hotel, takes Italian to elegant heights without losing any of its signature conviviality. The generous octopus salad already has tonnes of fans, as does the

rich ricotta cavatelli, a puddle of indulgence studded with pancetta and stracciatella.

Canberra Eightysix South

A baby sibling to its Braddon counterpart, this affable eatery in Woden (eightysix.com.au) is all about cleanly executed share plates – cool crudos, buttery pastas – plus a zippy little wine list. The “super quick lunch” menu is the exact excuse you’ve been looking for to get out of the office on a Friday afternoon.

Di Stasio Pizzeria in Melbourne’s Carlton

The Crowd-pleaser

BÁNH MÌ PÂTÉ EN CROÛ TE AT ARU

Is it Vietnamese? Is it French? A magical mash-up of the two? What’s certain is that this Melbourne-born dish is a fan favourite.

During one of Melbourne’s COVID-19 lockdowns, chef Khanh Nguyen developed a fixation with pastry. He whiled away the days wrapping whatever he could get his hands on in the flaky stuff, taking a particular interest in the classic French dish pâté en croûte.

“My whole career, I’ve wanted to learn how to get it right because it has a very complicated technique and takes a lot of skill,” says Nguyen. He’s not wrong: the meat needs to be the right ratio of lean and fat to stay moist; and you have to adjust the oven’s temperature mid-bake to ensure a crisp pastry and perfectly cooked filling.

Adding another layer of complexity, Nguyen decided to give his version a distinct Vietnamese twist. Once he had the technique down pat, he brought in the flavours of a bánh mì sandwich, using pork seasoned with chilli, coriander and spring onion. At the centre of the pâté en croûte is the crowning glory: the

chicken liver pâté, which remains super-soft. And the pocket between the pastry and the meat – traditionally topped up with cold meat jelly in the French version – is filled with a jelly of Maggi seasoning, soy sauce and rice vinegar, “just like the sauce you’d put on a bánh mì”.

Today, he serves about 150 to 200 portions of the dish each week at his hugely popular Melbourne restaurant, Aru (aru.net.au), each garnished with mayo, pickled carrot and daikon. “I’d say most tables order it. In fact, some people even come in with pictures of it on their phone – I guess they’ve seen it on social media or something – and say, ‘Can we order this?’”

Nguyen is now toying with the idea of adding a pad Thai version of pâté en croûte to the menu. “Instead of pâté it would have a soft-boiled egg in the middle. You need the yolk to still be runny when you cut into it and it’s a bit tougher to achieve but we’re working on it.” Stay tuned.

STORY BY ALEXANDRA CARLTON P HOTOGRAPHY BY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN

SURRY HILLS, NSW

Best share plates Kiln

If you’ve been wondering where gun chef Mitch Orr has been hiding since closing ACME, wonder no more. Head to level 18 of the new Ace Hotel Sydney to find Kiln, where Australiana (smoked butter and anchovy on Jatz) meets Italianese (tuna tartare topped with radish and turnip kimchi). Designed by Melbournebased Fiona Lynch Office, the dining room meshes the grandeur of city views with an interior that almost feels like the inside of a porcelain vase. Kiln by name, kiln by nature.

53 Foy Lane; kilnsydney.com

Best elemental cooking Firedoor

Book a seat at the kitchen bench to experience the magic of chef Lennox Hastie: you’ll see him dance with danger, expertly moving hot coals from one part of the kitchen to another. The menu changes as often as the limited-edition produce Hastie uses. That means the Ramarro Farm barletta onions, grilled whole over the fire, or the John Dory with a Duckfoot Farm carrot and ginger reduction may not make an appearance – but surprise is part of the draw.

23-33 Mary Street; (02) 8204 0800; firedoor.com.au

Best asado Porteño

Get set for high-definition flavour, AussieArgentinian-style, where whole beasts are cooked over the asado (a well-contained fire) and parilla (a badass grill). Housemade chorizo is served on almond romesco sauce, ready to be scooped up with a side of Humble bakery sourdough. Vegetarians are also catered for, with the likes of woodfired forest mushrooms and a beautiful chickpea pancake with Holy Goat cheese and spring vegetables.

50 Holt Street; (02) 8399 1440; porteno.com.au

Best date night Alberto’s Lounge

A dimly lit laneway oasis filled with ephemera, where the fans push the air lazily overhead and the staff buzz from table to table (or bar stool to bar stool) pouring amaro, delivering cocktails and laying down veggie-heavy pasta e fagioli. The menu from chef Elizabeth Mitchell straddles new-wave and old-school Italian cooking – sausage and lentils on one hand, burrata sitting on a tangle of raw fennel and dried fruit on the other.

7-19 Alberta Street; swillhouse.com

Best modern Korean Sáng by Mabasa

Ever been keen to try a lightly preserved, marinated raw blue swimmer crab? This is the place to do it. There’s also less-challenging fare, such as chargrilled rib eye served on a bed of winter cabbage kimchi, glazed fried Korean chicken wings and bibimbap that comes to the table sizzling. Not to mention the raw beef dish freshened up with crunchy green things (raw pear, perilla leaves, mung bean). And to drink? Plenty of natural wines and Korean beers.

98 Fitzroy Street; (02) 9331 5175; sangbymabasa.com.au

Best long lunch Nomad

Chef Jacqui Challinor delivers a menu of smart, modern Middle Eastern dishes designed to share in a sun-drenched room made for kicking back. Much of the food comes from the wood fire: puffy charred bread with wattleseed za’atar or blackened Roman beans, which work nicely alongside a dry-aged pork cutlet with spiced prunes and toasted pepitas. The olive oil ice-cream sandwich with halva is essential.

16 Foster Street; (02) 9280 3395; nomad.sydney

This inner-Sydney pocket covers all dining bases, from fire-licked fare to upmarket pub grub and a hot new eatery perched high above the city.

Best

pub

The Dolphin Hotel

Love a good old-fashioned afternoon at the pub but need to cater to the culinary whims of your bougie friends? There’s the wine bar off to the side. There’s the main dining room for Roman-style pizza (why yes, that is a truffled cacio e pepe pizza) and share plates of silky San Danielle prosciutto, polenta chips and salmon crudo. And there’s also the upstairs bar where, if you’re really not into sharing, you can order a cheeseburger and a beer and be done with it.

412 Crown Street; (02) 9331 4800; dolphinhotel.com.au

Best bar food Gildas

Finally, a Sydney bar where you can order a dirty Martini in the same breath as a soft-serve ice-cream sundae. This newish addition to the neighbourhood is from the team behind Firedoor and pairs Basque-style bar snacks with an impressive drinks menu. The Gilda (a San Sebastien pintxo comprising a guindilla pepper, an olive and an anchovy) features heavily, with three versions on offer. Team them with crisp school prawns and a glass of sherry. And that soft serve? It’s made from buffalo milk and drizzled with dulce de leche.

46-48 Albion Street; (02) 8275 8285; gildas.com.au

Best coffee

Artificer

This specialty café from Dan Yee (ex-Salvage) and Shoji Sasa (ex-Mecca and Single O) is your go-to for batch brew, fresh beans and equipment. Popular with passing cyclists, creatives and Surry Hillbillies, there is no food served. Coffee is their church and all who worship at its altar are welcome.

547 Bourke Street; artificercoffee.square.site

from top

(Clockwise

left) marinated raw blue swimmer crab at Sáng by Mabasa; Nomad; polenta chips with whipped sour cream at The Dolphin Hotel; Gildas’ namesake dish; Kiln at Ace Hotel Sydney and its Jatz with smoked butter and anchovy

STORY

BY JOHN LETHLEAN

LOST IN TRANSLATION

It was back in 1982 at a Chinese restaurant deep in the bowels of Madrid that a lasting lesson about menus was learnt by an outof-his-depth 22-year-old trying hard to woo an on-again, off-again sweetheart. Don’t rely on translations.

I’m sure this place – undoubtedly all I could afford – had a tourist menu. It listed ma yi shang shu as las hormigas suben al árbol in Spanish (I think – it’s more than

40 years ago, after all) and as ants climbing a tree in English. Of that I’m certain; it made a lasting impression.

I’d just been in Hong Kong and Macau, wide-eyed and naïve. I’d tasted some unfamiliar stuff, like century eggs. But now, well, I took it literally and ordered… something else. And left lunch scarred by the idea of eating ants. (Funny how the worm turns and ants are big these days.)

What’s in a name? Ultimately your dinner options, according to this food critic.

Ants climbing a tree is, I found out years later, when my interest in food morphed beyond quantity to quality, the figurative title for a Sichuan minced beef dish that someone dynasties ago decided looked like ants climbing a tree.

Better, I think, to stick with menus that don’t do the translation thing. Who, after all, would order cooked cream if it wasn’t listed as panna cotta? Fatty liver (foie gras). Cheese and black pepper (cacio e pepe). Boudin noir can be a wonderful thing but would it sell as pig blood sausage?

It all sounds better in the original language, particularly if the average Australian, whoever that may be these days, can pronounce it. Would spaghetti carbonara be the hit it is were it named, not for the humble charcoal-burner but the fabbricanti di scarpe da cavallo – the horseshoe-makers? I think not. Would you order linguini influenzatori dei social media, even if it was delicious? I don’t think so.

Which leads me to my micro-thesis: the old-world dishes most popular in new-world restaurants are those I can pronounce in their original form without making a goose of myself. Which reminds me of the time I ordered goose in Parma and got pork knuckle as a substitute, a bird that definitely had never flown. Funny how a good bottle of barolo can stimulate animal impersonations in a restaurant. So, on reflection, maybe rely on menu translations occasionally. Discretion is advised.

Boudin noir (black pudding) in Paris in 1932

In good spirits

How a new style of drink is changing Singapore’s bar scene.

Since the invention of the Singapore Sling at Raffles Hotel in 1915, the tropical city-state has remained one of the best places in the world to get a creative drink. Singapore is home to nine watering holes on The World’s 50 Best Bars and 51-100 lists for 2022, as well as the world’s highest alfresco bar, Altitude Rooftop Gallery & Bar. Now it’s leading the new “conscious cocktails” trend, with the city’s finest mixologists crafting alcohol-free drinks that rival the real thing.

The zero-alcohol movement is booming, with sober drinks – like those produced by Lyre’s Spirit Co, distiller of a booze-free catalogue served in some of the world’s best bars – now accounting for 3.5 per cent of global wine, beer and spirit sales, according to the International Wines and Spirits Record. By 2027, forecasts have consumers spending $1.85 billion on alcoholfree liquor worldwide.

Fancy a lemongrass spritz or agave aperitivo on a steamy Singapore afternoon? Here’s where to get the best zero-proof drinks in the city.

sSip a sin-free spritz at Atlas Bar

Known for its epic ceiling heights, Atlas Bar (atlasbar.sg) has 1920s Gatsby-esque interiors and a wall of gin featuring more than 3000 options. Located in the city’s Parkview Square, at Atlas you can order the refreshing Lyre’s lemongrass spritz instead of a gin and tonic.

sFind fruit-focused fun at D.Bespoke

This Japanese speakeasy (dbespoke.sg) in Tanjong Pakar is replete with chesterfield lounges, dapper bar staff and stiff drinks. Steer away from the strong stuff and order the Lyre’s agave with white peach pureed right in front of you.

sGo tee-total at the Tippling Club Bar

Mixologists pour Lyre’s combinations of salted liquorice and yuzu, bergamot or grapefruit at the funky bar of the Tippling Club (tipplingclub.com), on the fringes of Chinatown. Between sips, bite into bar snacks of smoked and charred peppers with soy and wasabi.

nLong lunch at Canchita

Get comfortable with a Lyre’s agave cocktail and six different types of ceviche – including one of uni, sliced scallops and passionfruit – at Peruvian hot-spot Canchita (canchita.sg), in the hip Dempsey Hill district.

nTake on a tart mocktail in Manhattan Manhattan (manhattan.regentsingapore. com.sg) is a – you guessed it – New York-inspired bar found inside the Regent Hotel and is 33 on The World’s 50 Best Bars of 2022. In tune with the “conscious cocktail” trend, it boldly features Marty’s Souffle – a tart tipple of Lyre’s nonalcoholic dry London spirit, lime and vanilla curd.

Find Lyre’s at Woolworths, Coles, Myer, major liquour retailers or lyres.co

Inside Singapore’s famous Atlas Bar

BLUE MOUNTAINS, NSW

A love of rock climbing may have drawn Baden Evans (above) to the Blue Mountains from his previous base in Wollongong, NSW, but since making the move nearly five years ago he’s found plenty more to keep him busy – namely Tempus (tempuskatoomba.com. au), the modern Australian restaurant he co-owns in Katoomba. The region is having a resurgence, he says. “People want food that’s sustainable and connected to the producer and we’re so well served here. We can have vegetables from little organic farms and wines from wineries that people can easily visit. Plus, it’s a tourist region so we have lots of good cafés, restaurants and boutique bottle shops.” Here’s his pick of the mountains.

If you think it’s still a tea and scones kind of place, you haven’t been paying attention. Restaurateur Baden Evans talks us through the best of the region.

Black Cockatoo Bakery

For the pastries

“It’s predominantly a sourdough baker, working out of Lawson, and there’s a retail space in Katoomba as well (blackcockatoo bakery.com.au). They do a range of beautiful sourdoughs and pastries, including an incredible cinnamon croissant. They also do weekend specials – it might be a goat’s cheese, caramelised onion and thyme focaccia. But I go for the coffee and that cinnamon croissant.”

This Little Piggy

For picnic supplies

“Maria, the owner, is a kindhearted woman who sells boutique cheeses, lots of lovely meats and a great deli range of chutneys, olive oils, flavoured salts, gluten-free crackers and the like (238 Great Western Highway, Blackheath; 0466 261 076). And she makes excellent sandwiches and quiches. It’s one of my go-tos in Blackheath if I need a cheeseboard or I’m heading out on a bushwalk; I grab a couple of sandwiches and maybe a brownie.”

Ateş

For a bougie dinner

“This is a high-quality finediner in an intimate setting with a 150-year-old woodfired oven (atesblackheath.com).

I get the dégustation and it’s a beautiful exploration of local flavours, utilising that oven really well. Will Cowan-Lunn is an incredible chef – the

restaurant earned a Chef’s Hat recently. There’s also a handful of fantastic wines. It’s the place for a date night or dinner with a close group of friends.”

New Ivanhoe Hotel

For a pub dinner

“It’s one of those quintessentially Australian pubs in an Art Deco building right in the middle of Blackheath (231 Great Western Highway; 02 4787 6156). The service is always fantastic. It’s a warm and homey environment, perfect for grabbing a beer and a good lamb shanks and mash kind of dinner.”

Tibet Kitchen

For momos

“It’s a small, Tibetan, family restaurant in Katoomba (10 Katoomba Street; 0406 122 623), serving momos and broth soups and things like that. It’s very understated in style but has that cosy mountains vibe and hearty food. The fried potato momos are amazing. It’s great after a bushwalk to sit down here and be warmed from the inside.”

Mountain Culture Beer Co.

For craft beer

“There’s always a range of interesting and fun new brews at this spot in Katoomba (mountain culture.com.au) and the deck out the back catches the afternoon sun beautifully. You can grab some tater tots with curry sauce

Local

STORY BY JESSICA IRVINE

P HOTOGRAPHY BY DAMIEN MILAN

and have your late arvo beer before you head back to freshen up for dinner.”

Cedar Kebab Cafe For falafels

“This place isn’t open every day but if it is, there’ll be a line out the door for fresh kebabs (129B Katoomba Street, Katoomba; 0410 151 024). The falafels are made in-house and are the best. You’ll spend about $10, be full and happy with the flavours.”

(Clockwise from top left) Chef Will Cowan-Lunn and a sample of dishes at Ateş restaurant in Blackheath; a meza bowl from Cedar Kebab Cafe in Katoomba; Mountain Culture Beer Co. in Katoomba; savoury pastries from Black Cockatoo Bakery in Katoomba

ARNEIS

Arneis is Italian but which region does it come from? This succulent, tangy white wine hails from Piedmont, in the Roero hills north-west of Alba. Arneis was almost extinct in the 1960s before pioneering winemaker Alfredo Currado, from Vietti, rediscovered the grape. Sounds interesting but first things first – how is it pronounced? Phonetically it’s ahr-NAYZ. In Piedmontese folklore it means “little rascal” as it tends to be difficult to grow but is certainly worth the effort. Where are the best local examples from? While it’s relatively new to Australia, the grape has quickly settled into cool sites that echo its homeland. Look to the Adelaide Hills, Tasmania and the Orange region in NSW. Victoria’s King Valley is the epicentre, with Italianate labels such as Chrismont, Dal Zotto, Symphonia, Pizzini and Sam Miranda at the fore. So how does it taste? Clean and crisp with the crunch of a nashi pear. It’s quite floral, with a hint of cinnamon and an almond-skin edge that adds some textural interest. Most surprising is its length – the delicate flavours hang around long after the wine has left your mouth. Is arneis food-friendly? It’s perfect served with a salad Niçoise, a delicate fish such as flathead or poached chicken. It makes a wonderful aperitivo, too. How much does it cost? Australian arneis sell for between $25 and $40, with top Piedmontese drops reaching up to $60. Should it be cellared? Think of arneis like sauvignon blanc and enjoy it now.

Pizzini Arneis

The Pizzini family helped to pioneer Italian grape varieties in Australia, including arneis. There’s fresh pear, quince and lime sorbet, plus a whiff of almond blossom. The palate is crisp and crunchy, with a juicy, mouth-watering finish.

King Valley, Vic / 2022 / $26

This rediscovered Italian white deserves to be on your drinks list.

Adelina Eternal Return Arneis

Colin McBryde is based in the Clare Valley but sources his arneis from the cooler Adelaide Hills. This wine has ripe pear and honeysuckle perfumes, a creamy palate and a fine, lime-fresh finish.

Adelaide Hills, SA / 2022 / $28

Rowlee Single Vineyard Arneis

Piedmontese grapes are featured at this emerging winery, including nebbiolo, the sibling of arneis. Fragrance and finesse define the wine, with lemon verbena and bosc pear aromas, a slinky palate and a surprisingly long finish.

Orange, NSW / 2021 / $38

Vietti Roero Arneis DOCG

This benchmark arneis from Luca Currado has distinct nashi pear and honeydew melon aromas plus a buoyant palate of ripe citrus fruits, white nectarine and almond-skin flavours. Pair it with calamari fritti.

Piedmont, Italy / 2021 / $53

Surry Hills

Wine List STORY BY PETER BOURNE

P HOTOGRAPHY BY CRAIG WALL

Create life’s most meaningful moments in luxury accommodation with panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean and Gold Coast Hinterland.

Enjoy a poolside retreat and snorkel in the resort’s iconic saltwater lagoon teaming with tropical fish.

JW culinary offerings showcase local produce, from fresh seafood to Japanese artistry and specially crafted cocktails.

+61 7 5592 9800

jwmarriottgoldcoast.com

98 Explore the unique culinary riches of underthe-radar Albania

LIFE’S A BEACH

FROM GREEK AND ITALIAN ISLANDS TO THE “PARISIAN RIVIERA” AND SPAIN’S DESERT COAST, HERE’S WHERE EUROPEANS GO FOR A SEASIDE GETAWAY. BY BEN MACK

Bar in Montenegro

Palm-lined stretches of white sand, charming cafés, warm weather, refreshing water – this isn’t Croatia but further down the Adriatic coast in Montenegro. The one-hour train journey from the capital, Podgorica, to the town of Bar passes through gorgeous lake country, past rocky mountains and along a shimmering coastline. Sit amid the opulence of mirrors and chandeliers while noshing on a veggie-loaded Dalmatian stew at locals’ favourite restaurant Knjaževa Bašta (“Prince’s Garden”; Ulica Jovana Tomasevica, +382 30 312 601).

Stay Each suite at Villa Geba (villageba.com), about 40 minutes drive from Bar, is different – the Moorish Salma Suite will have you thinking you’re in a luxury riad in Morocco – but every one looks out to the sparkling Adriatic.

SAN VITO LO CAPO

Wind-beaten cliffs rising above a golden beach and the azure Mediterranean – time seems to stand still at San Vito Lo Capo, about two hours drive west of Palermo. The rock face at sunset is like a painter’s canvas, when pinks, oranges, reds and yellows colour its craggy surface. Gently lapping water is the perfect tonic for stress and Spiaggia di Màcari, just south of the peninsula that the town sits on, is the best place to find it.

Stay The light and airy rooms at Parco Degli Aromi Resort & Spa (hotel.qantas.com.au/parcodegliaromi) in nearby Valderice have private balconies with coastal vistas, which you can also take in from the outdoor pool and jacuzzi.

GOZO

Malta’s ancient capital, Valletta, with its labyrinthine cobblestone streets and balconies stacked like real-life Jenga towers, is a tourist magnet, which may be why many Maltese head for Gozo, the “other” island. Its quiet villages and rocky landscape look a little like nearby Sicily. Xerri’s Grotto, a small cavern filled with stalactites and stalagmites, in Xaghrais, is a place few outsiders know about.

Stay The luxurious Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz (hotel.qantas.com.au/ kempinskisanlawrenz) has breezy rooms, exposed-brick walls and tiled floors that exude a desert-oasis feel.

CABO DE GATA-NÍJAR

SPAIN

A hot desert in Europe? Cabo de Gata-Níjar Nature Reserve, where some Game of Thrones scenes were filmed, is almost six hours drive from Madrid in Spain’s south-east corner. It’s popular with Spaniards thanks to its isolated and ruggedly beautiful landscape.

Stay The whitewashed walls, tiled floors and stunning outdoor pool make hotel Cortijo Los Malenos (hotel.qantas.com.au/cortijolosmalenos), only a minute’s drive from the nature reserve, a cool sanctuary.

HYDRA

GREECE

A horseshoe-shaped bay ringed by white stucco houses with doors as blue as the water, streets filled with people (and donkeys) and the squawk of seabirds on a salt-tinged breeze. Hydra (left), just 90 minutes by ferry from Athens, is where you’ll find Athenians watching life go by in cafés such as Isalos (waterline.gr) and visiting swimming spots framed by cypress trees.

Stay In a glamorous early-1800s mansion, luxury boutique hotel Hydrea Exclusive Hospitality (hotel.qantas.com.au/hydrea exclusive) charms guests with distracting views of the Saronic Sea.

GÜVERCINADA (PIGEON ISLAND)

TURKEY

While its fairytale castle conjures images of slaying dragons and other deeds of derring-do, locals flock to this part of the Turkish Riviera off the coast of Kuşadası (less than 90 minutes by car from Izmir), to swim in the warm, sapphire waters of the Aegean.

Stay A little further north, chill out at beachside Club Marvy (hotel.qantas.com.au/ clubmarvy) in Menderes. When hunger hits, head for the on-site steakhouse or Dedem K. Corner (Hacıfeyzullah, Kahramanlar Cd. No 2; +90 256 613 18 87) back in Kuşadası, where you’ll find deliciously authentic kebabs.

TORCELLO

ITALY

Less than an hour by water taxi from Venice and five minutes from Burano, this island is all about la dolce vita, minus the crowds. Small wonder then that Italians (and Ernest Hemingway when he came in the 1940s) love it. With barely a dozen residents, you’ll have no trouble getting a table at Taverna Tipica Veneziana (tavernaveneziana.it) or examining the mosaics at 7th-century Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

Stay This quiet isle has ancient churches, rustic restaurants and a storied four-star inn, Locanda Cipriani (locandacipriani.com), the hotel of choice for an array of famous guests.

CALANQUE DES ANGLAIS FRANCE

Along the Côte d’Azur, less than two hours by train from Nice, a pebbly beach surrounded by red rocks gives way to turquoise water. The French visit for the refined escapism and the bistros, such as Chez Gaston (36 Rue Charabois; +33 4 94 53 77 13) in nearby Saint-Raphaël, with its sidewalk tables, steak béarnaise and extensive wine list.

Stay Boutique hotel Les Roches Rouges (hotel.qantas.com.au/lesrochesrouges) in Saint-Raphaël opens seasonally (April to October) and has a Michelin-starred restaurant, Récif.

MUXÍA

SPAIN

With the crashing waves of the mighty Atlantic on one side and dramatic rocks on the other (and the Santuario da Virxe da Barca church perched on them), the town of Muxía has an edge-of-the-map feel that lures visitors from Bilbao and Madrid, both about seven hours away by car. In Moreira, just south of Muxía, watch the sun sink beneath the waves.

Stay Parador Costa da Morte (hotel.qantas. com.au/paradorcostadamorte) combines bold design (soaking tubs in some of the 63 rooms are next to the bed) with a waterfront location.

GYTHEIO

GREECE

Towards the bottom of the Greek mainland, about three hours’ drive from Athens, land and sea meet in glorious harmony and mythical drama. Beyond the mermaid sculpture on Gytheio’s harbour wall and across the bay, the island of Cranae is where, according to myth, Trojan Prince Paris first took Helen of Sparta after abducting her. When it’s time to dine, check out Saga Fish Restaurant (sagapension.gr) for its ocean views and excellent local seafood, just north of the causeway that connects Cranae with the mainland.

Stay Dining at restaurant Elia overlooking the water makes Alas Resort & Spa in Monemvasia (hotel.qantas.com.au/alasresortandspa) a compelling proposition.

MARINA CORRICELLA

ITALY

The island of Procida, with its black-sand beaches, is where many Neapolitans head during the summer – and it’s only 40 minutes from Naples by ferry. The pastel-hued houses of its port and working fishing village, Marina Corricella, cover the steep hillside. You’ll find great seafood such as stuffed squid and spaghetti with clams. The terrace at La Lampara restaurant (hotelcorricella.it) has water views and seats just 35 people.

Stay Casa Bormioli Maison de Charme (hotel.qantas.com.au/casabormioli) may look unassuming but its five guestrooms are light-filled and elegant.

NAZARÉ

PORTUGAL

Check out the world’s biggest waves – some up to 30 metres – from the stone Forte de São Miguel Arcanjo clifftop fortress in Nazaré, about 90 minutes by car north of Lisbon. Relax below grassy dunes on the sandy (and quiet) Praia da Légua further north – the waves here aren’t building-sized – then pop into A Tasquinha (R. Adrião Batalha 54, Nazaré; +351 262 551 945), where the same family has been serving fresh seafood for more than 50 years.

Stay Book in at Praia D’El Rey Marriott Golf & Beach Resort (hotel.qantas.com.au/praiadelrey marriott), about a 30-minute drive from Nazaré, and watch the Atlantic from your balcony.

ÖLAND

SWEDEN

About 25 minutes by car, across the six-kilometre-long Öland Bridge from Kalmar (nearly six hours by train south of Stockholm or four hours from Copenhagen, Denmark), this island (below) has pine forests, flour-soft sandy beaches and pretty towns with the white-trimmed red wooden houses that Scandinavia is known for. It’s so appealing, the Swedish royal family has a summer palace here. Next door to the regal pile, explore 13th-century Borgholms Slott – Northern Europe’s largest castle ruins – while you enjoy the crisp ocean air.

Stay Ekerum Resort Öland (hotel.qantas.com. au/ekerumoland) has its own golf course.

BOURNEMOUTH

ENGLAND

There’s nearly 16 kilometres of sandy beach at this seaside spot about two hours by train from London’s Waterloo Station. Behold roaming peacocks at the castle on Brownsea Island and head to family-run M’s Bakery (msbakery.co.uk) for topnotch sourdough and flaky layered “cube” croissants.

Stay Lay your head at the Bournemouth Highcliff Marriott Hotel (hotel.qantas.com.au/ bournemouthmarriot), overlooking Poole Bay.

DEAUVILLE FRANCE

Sometimes called the “Parisian Riviera” and less than three hours by train from the capital, Deauville has long been a favoured haunt of French high society (F. Scott Fitzgerald even mentions it in The Great Gatsby). Kick back at Plage de

Deauville with its candy-coloured umbrellas, beach huts and boardwalk.

Stay Hôtel Barrière Le Normandy Deauville (hotel.qantas.com.au/hotelbarrierelenormandy) drips with crystal chandeliers. Coco Chanel opened her first boutique nearby in 1913.

SYLT GERMANY

Find soft sand, luxury resorts and quaint towns on this island that’s the go-to beach destination for many German holidaymakers. It’s five-anda-half hours by train from Berlin along the Marsh Railway. Just breathing the salty air here has a calming effect, best appreciated at Hörnum Weststrand, a beach near Sylt’s southern tip that’s among its least crowded.

Stay Severin’s (severins-sylt.de) on Sylt is built in traditional thatched-roof style and looks like a palatial country estate.

FULL ENGLISH

FORGET TOAD IN THE HOLE AND BANGERS AND MASH – LONDON’S FOOD SCENE IS MORE LIKE A GREATEST-HITS TOUR OF THE GLOBE. HERE’S YOUR SHORTCUT TO THE BEST EATS IN TOWN. BY

PAT NOURSE

THE BEST BREAKFASTS

How much time have you got?

The pick of the quick options are a flaky feta and fennel seed swirl, drizzled with honey, at The Dusty Knuckle in Dalston (about 30 minutes from the city by train; thedustyknuckle. com), a brie and caramelised onion Danish at Jolene in Newington Green (a 20-minute drive from the city; jolenen16.com) or a salt beef sandwich zinging with hot English mustard just around the corner at Brick Lane Beigel Bake (bricklanebeigel.co.uk), which is open 24/7.

To take things at a more leisurely pace, head to Towpath Café (towpath london.com), a pocket of dreamy Englishness on the bank of Regent’s Canal, a 10-minute stroll from Haggerston station. My last breakfast here featured toast topped with pretty Marinda heirloom tomatoes and a peppery mojo verde. Even the toasted cheese sandwich gets a boost of brilliance in the form of quince jelly.

As for coffee, Rosslyn (rosslyncoffee. com) serves up the right mix of cheery greeting and frankly excellent espresso in three city locations.

Scrolls from The Dusty Knuckle bakery (left); Rosslyn café on Queen Victoria Street (below)

THE HOTTEST RESTAURANTS

Not so long ago, the restaurant scene in London – for the casual visitor, at least – was top-heavy and dominated by a French idea of fine dining. The good news is that its DNA has been reset by an influential group of chefs and restaurateurs.

At the white-hot Café Cecilia (cafe cecilia.com), a fashionable crowd thrills to the cooking of young gun Max Rocha, who opened the Hackney eatery after working at dining institutions The River Café (rivercafe.co.uk) and St. John Bread and Wine (stjohnrestaurant.com), as well as at Spring (springrestaurant.co. uk), the restaurant of feted Australian expat chef Skye Gyngell. Rocha’s rich, flavoursome Guinness sourdough could form the beginning of the meal or its

coda, when it’s churned into a densely textured ice-cream. In between, he works a very likeable riff on AngloItalian with sage and anchovy fritters served hot and crisp, and a Barnsley chop of lamb with a bitey salad of chicory and dandelion; also, excellent chips.

Rochelle Canteen (rochelleschool.org) is not new and has always been great but it now enjoys a more central place in London’s food conversation. Margot Henderson, the chef and co-owner, is married to St. John’s co-owner and chef, Fergus Henderson, and they share ideas of what constitutes a good time at the table. The Canteen is set within the walled garden of a former Victorian school in Shoreditch, which gives it a sunny, colourful air, and Margot’s

Sessions Arts Club (above); mussels with bacon, fennel, white wine and bread at Café Cecilia (below)

menus take broader inspiration, with the likes of hake, samphire and capers complemented by beautifully made mutton kofta with radish slaw.

Welsh chef Tomos Parry adds woodfired cooking to the equation at Brat (bratrestaurant.co.uk), a pleasantly rough-hewn first-floor dining room in Shoreditch that has a superb wine list. “Brat” is an old Northumberland word for turbot and the big fish is the signature, coming to the table grilled whole to share in all its sweet and gelatinous splendour.

If it’s a scene you’re after, make your way directly to Sessions Arts Club (sessionsartsclub.com), in the former judges’ dining room of Sessions House in Clerkenwell. Chef Florence Knight’s food is as much of an attraction as the people-watching. There’s lots to like here but the cake of fine potato slices presented like a golden deck of carbs, tricked out with smoked eel, crème fraîche and salmon roe, makes a convincing case for the more-is-more approach.

Of course, a great many champions of the new London style weren’t born in the city and while it might not be entirely accurate to call Ikoyi (ikoyilondon.com) an African restaurant, benne, moin moin and jollof rice sit easily alongside prime British produce such as aged beef and sweet peas. I can’t think of another two-Michelin-starred eatery working with these African ingredients that brings it all together so seamlessly. “Ikoyi is about hyper-seasonality through a lens of spice. It’s about immediate cooking of fish, grass-fed beef and justpicked vegetables,” says chef Jeremy Chan. “It’s a restaurant of big flavours, sharp aesthetics and passion for comforting but complex food.”

For an experience that’s very much right-here-right now, you want Black Axe Mangal (or F.K.A.B.A.M; blackaxe mangal.com) near Islington Tube stop. The restaurant’s direction owes much to head chef Lee Tiernan’s love of the city’s mangals (Turkish grills), the woodfired oven and his sense of adventure. Certainly there’s no other eatery in London with music this loud that serves skewers of snails and duck hearts this good.

Brat (left and below); Ikoya (bottom)

THE COOLEST WINE BARS

There’s a spectrum here from bottle shops that also pour wine and run a short, smart menu, such as Quality Wines in Farringdon (qualitywines farringdon.com), through to places like Bright (brightrestaurant.co.uk), next to Broadway Market, that are essentially restaurants but afford every bit as much care to the wine and service as they do the food. It’s a more collaborative approach and in some ways it echoes the Australian attitude, says Bright chef and co-owner Will Gleave.

“When I first moved to Australia, I was struck by two things: a much freer approach to interpreting regional cuisines and a great sense of warmth and inclusivity within the industry,” he says. “We always felt we wanted our hospitality to represent this; a well-considered and, above all, welcoming restaurant.”

To eat English heirloom tomato, smoked eel and lovage at Noble Rot in Soho (noblerot.co.uk); roasted sardines with potatoes, olives and anchovies at Quality Wines; or savour the dash of fennel pollen in Bright’s buttery spaghetti with bottarga, along with a glass of something extraordinary, is to feel that London remains one of the major crossroads of culture in this world.

The final honours go to Planque (planque.co.uk). In French it means “hide-out”, which speaks nicely to the eatery’s location, next to Haggerston station. It’s also pronounced “plonk”, useful for appreciating its wine focus.

The food is impeccable – vibrant, fresh and downright delicious, from the chilled melon soup popping with trout roe to the gorgeous grilled mackerel with lardo and almond. Planque’s magic is a meeting of its co-owners, Paris-born sometime Sydneysider Jonathan Alphandery and his ItalianAustralian wife, Bianca Riggio, as well as Geelong-born chef Sebastian Myers, who has cooked his way through top kitchens in Paris, provincial France and Lisbon, as well as many of the leading local lights. In other words, as London as it gets, circa now.

Trujillo Andrades. Louise Long

Slip sole in smoked butter at Noble Rot (right); Planque (below)

INCREDIBLE UP CLOSE

Swim through a blue underworld found in a sheep paddock. Watch Florence and the Machine in a local park. South Australia does big moments in unexpected places.

Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island

Parwana Afghan Kitchen

WOMADelaide

INTO THE UNEXPECTED

See an angel circus in the sky and taste flavours from chefs gone wild. Adelaide, the new big-little capital of cool, is having a moment.

Adelaide

DELVE INTO ART AND CULTURE

“Adelaide lives life at a slightly more leisurely pace than much bigger cities, so our artists can find the gap between thoughts,” says Annette Tripodi, associate director of the annual WOMADelaide festival (womadelaide.com.au). “You get unexpected ideas and collaborations.”

Bon Iver, Billy Bragg and Soul II Soul will share the bill with headliners Florence and the Machine when the music, arts and dance event hits Botanic Park from 10 to 13 March. At food tents, talk recipes with cooks from around the world, or let loose like a kid at interactive installations. “It’s about audiences feeling connected to the art, being in a moment together.” When angels from French circus Gratte Ciel’s Place des Anges flutter through the sky at night, “it brings out the inner child in everyone”.

The Art Gallery of South Australia (agsa.sa.gov.au) is stacked with pieces that pull attention. “Whenever I go, I linger at We Are All Flesh by Belgian artist Berlinde De Bruyckere,” says Tripodi. “It’s a giant, upside-down headless-horse bronze sculpture. It’s magnificently brutal and I love how it sits among classical paintings, hitting you in the face as you walk into the gallery.” Looking to inspire teens? At MOD (mod.org. au), exhibitions explore space travel and the mind-bending mysteries of time.

TAKE A TRUE FOOD JOURNEY

MasterChef alumna Laura Sharrad has a theory about why Adelaide is muscling in on larger cities, gaining ground as an edgy dining capital. “The unbeatable proximity to so many diverse wine regions, biodynamic and sustainable agriculture and coast makes us unique.”

Top cooks come here to flex their creative muscles. Sharrad calls chef Justin James of Restaurant Botanic (restaurantbotanic.com.au) a flag-bearer. At possibly the only restaurant in the world to forage ingredients from a city botanic garden, James gears his 20-course dégustations to the “micro-seasons” of the grounds, focuses on ferments and, some days, uses green ants as seasoning. “The food is an incredible journey.”

In Sharrad’s own restaurants, the CBD’s Fugazzi (fugazzi.com.au) and Nido Bar (nidobarpasta.com.au), her husband, Max, is the executive chef who spins local ingredients such as Coorong mullet and Hiramasa kingfish into Italian dishes. She also loves Parwana Afghan Kitchen (parwana.com.au) in tree-lined Torrensville. “The food is always jam-packed with flavour, true to its traditions and family roots.” Her standing order? Steamed mantu with lamb and yoghurt sauce, followed by braised eggplant with Kabuli rice. For a neon-lit nightcap? “Go see Dan at 1000 Island (1000island.com.au) on Solomon

Adelaide Hills

“It’s time and geology that make the Hills’ wine special,” says Candice Helbig of CRFT Wine s (crftwines.com.au).

A 25-minute drive east of the CBD, the Adelaide Hills have been here for 500 to 900 million years. “Movements from faulting and folding have created complex soils.”

Good dirt, warm days and cool nights make ideal conditions for small makers creating single-site varietals not often seen in Australia, such as grüner veltliner.

“Our grüner has a unique umami flavour and texture. It’s always delicious but paired with food, background flavours come to the front and the wine sings.” Helbig reckons Uraidla

Street for the best Piña Colada in town.”

Fried chicken chasers are served late-late at Sunny’s Pizza (sunnys.pizza) next door.

The gigantic Adelaide Central Market (adelaidecentralmarket.com.au) is a cook’s playground. At the Smelly Cheese Shop, taste single-origin cheese made from Jersey cow milk on the Fleurieu Peninsula. House-cured Wagyu bresaola from Ric at Marino starts off a perfect picnic. And don’t miss sourdough donuts from Dough bakery or custardy cannelés at Les Deux Coqs’ stall.

UNCOVER SOMETHING UNIQUE

“If you gravitate to vintage finds with a story, Adelaide’s neighbourhoods are a hunting trail,” says Rachael Will, owner of Vintage Carousel (vintagecarouselsa.com), an Aladdin’s cave of antique art and retro thingamajigs in Bowden. Will says Her Name Was Nola (6 Elizabeth Street, Croydon; 0499 444 881) is a trove of linens and handmade ceramics. On a tour with The Tailor Touring Co. (thetailortouring. com), meet the leather masters behind South Australia’s famed R.M. Williams boots before being fitted for your own pair.

SLEEP IN CREATIVE STYLE

Eos by SkyCity (skycityadelaide.com.au) is part luxury hotel, part gallery, with more than 900 works – including pieces by APY Lands’ Mick Wikilyiri and glass artist Jessica Loughlin – shown across its rooms.

Bakery’s (uraidlabakery.com. au) sourdough, with artisanal monforte from Section 28 (section28.com.au), is just right.

Like a little fizz? Head to Sidewood Estate (sidewood. com.au) and slice the top off a bottle of sparkling wine with a sabre. Flamboyant sabrage is a show-off trick dating back to Napoleonic soldiers who, according to legend, grabbed

bayonets to open champagne in victory. Here, you’ll use Italian-made steel on premium Methode Traditionelle and be guided by cellar-door staff. Before starting back for the city, rev up your tastebuds at Woodside Cheese Wright s (krislloyd.com.au), where experimental artisan Kris Lloyd makes Bush Buff cheese from local buffalo milk.

AMONG THE VINES

What’s your style of wine weekend? Dive into iconic reds and blue sinkholes on a coastal drive or pedal between laid-back wineries and a living maze with the kids.

tapenade. By the time you get to shiraz with a rack of lamb cooked over coals, she has you feeling like an expert.

A hut among red gums on the edge of a waterhole isn’t the average scene for world-class wine tasting. But at Land of Tomorrow Wine (landoftomorrowwine. com) in Wrattonbully, on the celebrated soil of the Limestone Coast, an hour’s drive north of Mount Gambier, it feels right. At a feast booked with Coonawarra Experiences (coonawarraexperiences. com.au), fourth-generation local and winery owner Susie Harris splashes barbera in a glass as she tells stories about the place and the hand-picked fruit that give her wine its personality.

“You can taste the region’s distinctive multi-million-year-old terroir in earthiness, fragrance and spice,” explains Harris as you sip between mouthfuls of lemon and chardonnay-pickled redfin with olive

At Ottelia (ottelia.com.au), assistant winemaker Matilda Innes mixes cabernet sauvignon grown in Coonawarra’s terra rossa soils with fruit from across the coast. Here for a tasting? Stay for lunch at the winery’s restaurant. “Produce like broad beans, snow peas and asparagus changes daily but the ricotta gnocchi with burnt butter and sage sauce is always on and amazing with a red.”

Up the road at Wynns Coonawarra Estate (wynns.com.au), get a handle on the region’s history. “Try the V&A Lane cabernet shiraz – it’s one of the earlier-picked reds in the region, which gives it a real elegance.”

Down in the flinty Mount Gambier area, Innes recommends tasting riesling and chardonnay. “The cool-climate styles really sing with minerality.” Sample the excellent chardonnay at Noski Wines (08 8726 8224) in Moorak. Like Mediterranean-style reds?

Innes suggests “the warmer Padthaway region for beautiful Mediterranean varietals like juicy graciano and sangiovese”. Swirl one at Padthaway Estate (padthaway estate.com.au).

+ UNEXPECTED ADVENTURE

Mount Gambier is studded with volcanic cenotes. Kilsby Sinkhole (kilsbysinkhole. com) sits on Graham Kilsby’s sheep farm and he’ll let you in for a guided snorkel. “You can see every rock on the floor below.” He might even pour you a nip of his Sinkhole Gin, made from limestonefiltered water, lemon myrtle and muntries.

STAY AND PLAY

Glamping tents shelter beneath 500-year-old gumtrees at Bellwether Wines (bellwether wines.com.au). A tour of the 1868 shearing shed that Sue Bell has converted into a winery is a must. In March, help pick, crush and press grapes during vintage.

Fly to Mount Gambier

Limestone Coast

Kilsby Sinkhole

Land of Tomorrow

Josie Withers

Fly to Adelaide Clare Valley

You don’t have to be a wine buff to have a good time cycling the Riesling Trail in the Clare Valley, a scenic two-ish hour drive from Adelaide. Winding easily between the towns of Clare and Auburn, the mostly flat 33-kilometre route is dotted with cafés, lookouts and spots where you can watch for kangaroos with the kids. But Damon Koerner, winemaker at Koerner (koernerwine.com.au), says it helps to know a bit about acidity. “It’s what gives a good riesling its tart, tangy flavour and keeps you going back for more.”

Technically, the young gun winemaker and brother Jonathan’s winery is a short pedal off the mapped Riesling Trail but it’s worth the detour to taste lesser-known Corsican reds such as aromatic, spicy

sciacarello and a vibrant nielluccio that’s been a hit at their local, the Magpie & Stump (magpieandstump.com.au).

“The pub was our first cellar door and does a great schnitzel with pepper sauce.”

It’s also next to the Mintaro Maze (mintaromaze.au), where 800 conifers form a green, living labyrinth in which children can play hide-and-seek.

Four kilometres north, via a sip of basket-pressed tempranillo at Tim Gramp Wines (timgrampwines.com.au), you’ll find Watervale Hotel (watervalehotel.com.au) where chef Nicola Palmer will get your senses firing on a tour of the organic, biodynamic farm that supplies her kitchen. “You might come back with an armful of herbs, carrots, beetroot and blood orange,” says Palmer. “Then you can come to the chef’s table and watch me prepare them right in front of you.” Her Penobscot Farm salad changes daily but may include

cabbage flowers, a trio of kales and edible petals. If a picnic is more your family’s speed, Palmer suggests popping into the Watervale General Store (watervalegeneral.store). “It’s a café and post office, with lunch staples and fantastic cakes baked by the owner.”

+ UNEXPECTED ADVENTURE

You’ll need a car to drive 30 minutes west of the valley to Lake Bumbunga, a pink salt lake that transforms into a bubblegum-hued mirror when it’s full.

TOP STAYS

At Bungaree Station (bungareestation. com.au), old stables and stately council chambers now serve as well-appointed accommodation for every size of family. On a romantic escape? CABN (cabn.life/ south-australia) has tucked tiny cabins into pockets of bushland around the valley.

Koerner

INSIDE THE WILD

Time and natural luxury deliver the ultimate wellness retreat on this strikingly rugged coast.

Eyre Peninsula

Fly to Port Lincoln

Amanda Hogg, the host and owner of Eyre.Way (eyreway.com), remembers the first time she showed her dad the location for Maldhi, the high-end eco hut she’s built on the raw, raggedy edge of Sleaford Bay. “There was a mob of 40 kangaroos running parallel to the coastline,” she says. “When they cleared, a southern right whale was sitting with her calf about 100 metres offshore… It was unbelievable!” It’s the kind of moment everyone is searching for.

Six months later, Hogg unveiled her vision. In the cabin, floor-to-ceiling windows take in snow-white sandhills and secluded beaches that stretch as far as you can see. “It’s just you and nature,” says Hogg, who angled the deck to make the most of electric Southern Ocean sunsets –and says they’re even better with a tumbler

of Rare Coastal Gin by local makers Coffin Bay Spirits (coffinbayspirits.com.au).

The Eyre Peninsula, a triangle edged by the Spencer Gulf, the Great Australian Bight and the remote Gawler Ranges, is the kind of place that almost forces you to drop out. Sarah Hayes, a local yoga and breath-work instructor, guides Australian Coastal Safaris’ (australiancoastalsafaris.com.au) Health & Wellness Weekender journey, which wanders through the wilds of Lincoln National Park. “When we’re forest bathing at Stamford Hill, you’re in the middle of dense mallee bushland but you can tune into the ocean,” she says. “In yoga sessions alongside manna gums, you’re “breathing in fresh eucalyptus and doing downward dog right next to koalas in the trees”.

It’s all about nourishment, so you’ll also stop for “the best oysters you’ll ever taste” minutes after they’ve been plucked from the clear saltwater of Coffin Bay for lunch.

Mindful dining is the order at Flavours of Yarnbala (yarnbala.com). “Yarnbala is an experience in which nine-course epic tasting menus explore the landscape and taste the season,” says owner Kane Slater. Once a month, he walks diners through a patch of critically endangered she-oak grassy woodland to a meetingplace shelter of recycled timber and limestone, where a banquet sourced from the surrounding bush awaits by the fire. Acacia seed dukkah adds a nutty, caramelised flavour to fillets of kangaroo cooked over coals, saltbush leaves are transformed into crispy taco shells and quandong sorbet is a sweet, tangy surprise.

STOP OFF

Before the 45-minute drive from Port Lincoln to the Eyre Peninsula, Hayes suggests pit-stopping at Boston Bean Coffee Co. (bostonbean.com.au) to grab some sticky chai.

Maldhi, Eyre.Way

BEYOND THE BEACHES AND WILDLIFE

Follow sandy tracks to cool bush wineries in a cook’s paradise. This dream island is a delicious surprise.

Kangaroo Island

Sitting at a table wrapped inside leafy boughs, Stephanie Vass says being a chef on Kangaroo Island is living the fairytale. It’s not just that the restaurant, The Enchanted Fig Tree (gastronomodining. com.au), where she’s head chef, uses a 120-year-old fig tree for a dining room. “Every day I’m blown away by how much there is to eat and taste.”

The local oysters, which she tricks up with fuchsia karkalla flower mignonette and fragrant mulberry ponzu, are uniquely juicy. “But they’re not too salty because the waters near The Oyster Farm Shop (oysterfarmshop.com.au) at American River are naturally quite sweet.”

In the north, lush orchard The Figgery (thefiggery.com.au) was started with

cuttings from The Enchanted Fig Tree. “I stop to stock up on sticky figs and syrup on the way to Stokes Bay, one of my favourite places on the island,” says Vass. “It’s gorgeous: you walk along a secret cliff path to find a beautiful sheltered beach.”

In a few days you can taste a lot across Kangaroo Island’s five wineries. But the cool, dry maritime conditions in this microclimate offer enough variety for a week of long lunches and tastings. “We do European-style wines that are quite different to what you find in the rest of South Australia,” says The Islander Estate Vineyards (iev.com.au) winemaker Yale Norris, pointing to the Wally White. The elegant barrel-fermented semillon puts texture and acidity in moreish balance.

Visit this bush-circled cellar door and you’ll probably want to say hi to the neighbours. “You’ll find koalas up the trees just outside on most days.”

The wildlife-rich Cygnet River Artisan Trail connects Norris’ winery with organic Springs Road Winery (springsroad.com.au) and Kangaroo Island Spirits (kangarooisland spirits.com.au), where Australia’s craft gin boom was launched back in 2004. A few minutes further down the road, Emu Bay Lavender Farm (emubaylavender.com.au) serves up fluffy lavender scones. Dig in before you head to nearby Boxing Bay. “It’s my secret – white sand and amazing snorkelling,” says Norris.

Need a night out? Slide into a booth at new wine bar and kitchen The Shy Wren (52 Thomas Willson Street; 0497 783 899) in Penneshaw for zesty Clockwork Orange cocktails and plates of hot smoked salmon.

STAY

At Snelling Beach, find eco-friendly WanderPods (wander.com.au) “In January, you can watch dolphins in the bay,” says Vass.

Fly to Kangaroo Island

Snelling Beach

The Enchanted Fig Tree

Lake Bumbunga, Clare Valley

ALBANIANS ARE PIECING TOGETHER THEIR FRACTURED HISTORY TO CREATE A MEDITERRANEAN ESCAPE LIKE NO OTHER.

BY KENDALL HILL

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAQUEL GUIU GRIGELMO

LAND OF HOPE

Poultry mill around the entrance of Mrizi i Zanave (left); a cook makes cornbread in the wood oven (above)

It takes time to rebuild a broken country. In Fishtë, a village of some 100 houses scattered over gentle hills and valleys 90 minutes north of the capital, Tirana, chef Altin Prenga guides me around a former political prison where Albania’s brutal communist regime (1944 to 1991) once jailed dissenters. Three decades on, he’s transformed it into a symbol of hope and renaissance.

Prenga ushers me into a pleasantly pungent room of shelves stacked high with fat wheels of kashkaval cheese while, outside, local farmers pull up at the dairy with pails of still-warm milk. Elsewhere, the compound has spaces for smoking and ageing meats, pickling vegetables, preserving fruits, fermenting wine and rakia. It’s a vision of abundance.

The raw produce comes from Prenga’s own vines, orchards and vegetable crops, as well as 400 local families he’s enlisted to the cause of Mrizi i Zanave (mrizizanave.al), the country’s first agriturismo. With a strikingly lovely nine-room hotel (converted

from the old family home) and an acclaimed restaurant that receives triple the booking requests it can handle, there’s a real sense of cultural revival.

Altin and his brother Anton began planting this 25-hectare plot in 2009 and opened the restaurant a year later, serving the hyperlocal ingredients and home-style cooking that are the soul of Albanian identity. “In the communist era, we lost the ability to be farmers,” says Prenga. The “disorienting wave” of capitalism that followed communism’s collapse further dislocated people from their roots. Mrizi i Zanave is his wildly successful bid to recapture the country’s food heritage before it’s lost for good. “To give it dignity again,” he humbly suggests.

Its fame has spawned three more local agriturismos and a national reawakening of authentic food traditions. This is what I’ve come to witness in Albania. Because the surest way to understand a country is through its stomach.

Agriturismo Mrizi i Zanave, where rooms are named after animals from the farm (including The Donkey, far left); cheese is produced onsite (below); and dishes, such as a rose petal ice-cream dessert (below right) are made solely from local ingredients

Çobo Winery in Berat, central Albania (left); the city’s traditional houses of the Mangalem neighborhood (above)

Located south of Croatia, north of Greece and just across the Adriatic from Italy, Shqipëria – which is Albania’s official name and means “Land of the Eagles” – has all the elements of its better-known Mediterranean neighbours. Its terrain, which encompasses lofty peaks, river canyons, fertile plains and 450 kilometres of luminous coastline, combines with a gastronomy that blends Ottoman, Mediterranean and Balkan, Islamic and Christian influences, making for an intoxicating blend.

After a spell in Prenga’s new cellar for a sneak preview of an “important wine” he’s made with semi-dried native kallmet grapes – “too young”, he sighs, “the early wines cannot tell the real story” – he escorts me and the opened bottle to dinner. I sit outside under a bower of vines with the farm bathed in golden sunlight. A honking crowd of geese bustles past, an impressive opening act to the play of plates that follows.

The pristine flavours of tiny tomatoes, pesto and a salted curd-like cheese. Hot crisp burek and lakror pastries filled with pumpkin and egg, spring onion and corn. Pickled vegetables. Charcuterie, cheeses, breads. Ravioli filled with goose ragù. Baby goat with potato, the meat barely holding to the bone. A trio of desserts, including a candy-pink globe I crack open to reveal a fragrant ball of rose petal ice-cream. The entire set menu costs €18 (about $28) a head. This is what great eating looks like in Europe’s least familiar Mediterranean nation.

A tortoise crosses the road in front of us – good luck, apparently – as we drive back to Tirana the next day. In the evening I find central Grand Park and the prosaically named Artificial Lake teeming with people, the passeggiata in full flight. There’s a festival vibe but this is just Tirana on a random summer’s evening. Mullixhiu, “The Miller” (mullixhiu.al), is an exceptional Albanian experience tucked among the lakefront’s bustling international bars and restaurants. The timber-clad dining room resembles a mountain hut, with designer flourishes of terracotta lampshades and vitrines stacked with dried corn cobs. Likewise the L3000 (about $40) Metamorphosis tasting menu features traditional ingredients and recipes with contemporary flair.

Highlights include fli, a charcoal-baked pastry layered with melting beef cheek and yoghurt sauce that takes half a day to prepare. And the fermented wheat dish trahana, once a fast-food staple of Roman foot-soldiers, here served with blueberries and purslane sauce.

Mullixhiu’s chef, Bledar Kola, fled Albania in the 1990s, like so many others, and arrived in London clinging to the underside of a lorry. “I was taking a risk,” says Kola. “That was the reality of the time.” Starting out as a dishwasher, he eventually graduated to be sous chef of Le Gavroche, the country’s first three-star restaurant. He also did three stints at Noma in Denmark before coming home to make his mark. “Living in London as a refugee, I wanted to bring some pride to our food,” he says. “It really is the soul of our country and the culture.”

Bledar’s older brother, Nikolin, is co-founder of the RRNO Foundation, formed to “preserve, develop and promote Albanian gastronomy” following the cultural void of the communist era. To date it has rescued 300 indigenous recipes and is collaborating with chefs and academics on an encyclopedia of Albanian

TIA Qantas flies from Melbourne, Sydney and Perth to London,

Burek cooking at Sofra e Vjeter (above); restuarant owners Dhurata, Sofokli and their daughter, Ori (right)

gastronomy, due to be published this year. “You still have that freshness and uniqueness to ingredients here that you don’t find elsewhere,” says Kola. “We want to capitalise on this and make sure it’s preserved.” Preservation and restoration are recurring themes in this fractured state.

In Berat, the World Heritage-listed Ottoman city south of Tirana in the Osum River Valley, Petrit and Muharram Çobo are reviving winemaking rituals that date back to Bronze Age Illyrians.

The brothers trained in Italy before coming home in the 1990s to found Çobo Winery (cobowine.com), which today is the country’s largest producer of wine and a pioneer of wine tourism. The wines showcase native grape varietals such as shesh, puls and the extraordinary vlosh, which is blood-red inside and out and makes wine that smells of cigar, leather and redcurrant. Çobo also produces the country’s only sparkling wine, Shendeverë – a truly excellent champagne-style drop whose name means “when you are happy drinking wine and laughing”. It’s a handy word to know here.

While in Tirana, I catch up with Elton Çaushi, the enthusiastic architect of my itinerary. He co-founded boutique agency Albanian Trip (albaniantrip.com) in 2007, which he operates from a three-storey house crammed with memorabilia and a garden crawling with tortoises. Lucky charms or not, 2022 has been his best year yet for business. “What I tried to do with this is to do a development project for my country. To make it more known,” he tells me.

“There’s an authenticity here that you do not find – or have to try so much harder to uncover – in other European countries. It’s still very genuine; there is still plenty of heart,” says Çaushi. To prove his point, he’s arranged for me to have dinner with Dhurata and Sofokli (“Sofo”) Daupaj at the couple’s hillside home and restaurant, Sofra e Vjetër (“The Old Table”; Tragjas i Vjetër 9400; +355 68

411 5432), above the Ionian Sea, about two-and-a-half hours south of Tirana. It is, he promises, “a place that comes out of a tale where dragons and fairies sit next to each other. It has a sort of magic.”

I fall under the spell while being chauffeured up a very steep rubbly road, past stunted oaks and muscled mountains, in a black Ford Fiesta by a chain-smoking man (a relative, apparently) and his fluffy white lapdog, Boris. We find Dhurata busy tearing figs in half and spreading them on a garden ledge to dry. She thrusts one at me – “Eat!” – then leads me into her kitchen of blackened walls and benches covered in ash and twigs, where some food is cooked under rather than over coals. Ember pots glow and flame on top of saĉ pans containing charry, puffy bread; a jumbo burek stuffed with eggplant, chicken, tomato and “lots and lots of onions”; and roasting beef joints with potato.

Under the only windowed wall lies a pile of white-ish sacks that turns out to be bound goatskins. Sofo unties one at the hoofs; Dhurata scoops out a mound of creamy, lumpy cheese that’s been maturing inside for two months – an ancient technique still practised here in the hills above the Albanian Riviera. She makes me dip in a finger. The cheese is sharp and funky but also luscious. “It’s strong but it’s good for the stomach,” says Dhurata. “It does all the good things. Now, let’s sit down!”

Sofo takes us to a table “in the nature”, facing the sea below. As I work through the generous banquet – the burek is easily the best I’ve ever tasted – and sip housemade red, Sofo sits on a stone wall and fills the warm air with melodies from his double flute.

The music, the food, the wild setting and these extraordinary people feel like a portal to a Mediterranean I didn’t think still existed. When I compliment his playing, Sofo shrugs and assures me this is simple shepherd’s music, “learned with goats”. And delivered, like everything in Albania, with heart.

The tasting room at Çobo Winery in Berat

TO THE MANOR REBORN

HISTORIC MANSIONS, VILLAS AND PALAZZI ARE REIMAGINED AS SOME OF THE MOST EXQUISITE NEW HOTELS IN EUROPE’S SUMMER HOTSPOTS.

BY ALEX GREIG

Mariela Medina

Passalacqua, Lake Como, Italy

ARISTIDE HOTEL

SYROS, GREECE

To understand how special Aristide Hotel (hotelaristide.com) is, says co-owner Jasmin Aristide, the only thing guests need to know is that she, her sister, Oana, and their mother, Simona, never planned to become hoteliers. “We weren’t looking to open a hotel,” says Jasmin. “We were looking for – and only had the budget for – a holiday apartment. We were shown this house by mistake but were so taken by it that Oana moved to Syros [an island in south-eastern Greece], our mother turned her home in Sweden into storage for the future hotel and I spent five years working in the Arctic to help pay for the mad project.”

Over rosemary-baked fish with local capers in the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, as a gentle breeze blows off the Aegean and the mansion-studded hills of Syros’s seafront darken with the dipping sun, it doesn’t seem like madness at all.

It’s clear on first glimpse of the peachy-pink pile, with its Doric columns of Pentelikon marble, how the Aristides fell under

its spell. The property is an architectural jewel among the abundance of crayon-coloured villas of Hermoupolis. But beyond its Neoclassical exterior lies a thoroughly modern hotel where bold colours replace Hellenic whitewash and the walls are crowded with bold figurative art. Nine spectacular suites make up the accommodation, three with terraces and private plunge pools.

That Oana finished writing her first novel (in English, no less) as she restored a rundown mansion on a small island about a four-hour ferry ride from Athens is inspiring. That the Romanian emigrant who grew up in Sweden did it during a world-pausing pandemic is impressive. That she and Jasmin are a macroeconomist and a doctor, respectively, is perhaps a bit much. It’s hard to resent the Aristides, though, once you see what they have wrought from this former shipbuilder’s home.

“We’re not really hoteliers,” says Oana. “We’re an art- and sustainability interested family that happens to run a small hotel.”

COUR DES VOSGES

PARIS, FRANCE

It’s easy to miss number 19 – the heavy, unmarked door of the newest hotel on Paris’s oldest planned square is très low-key. Staying at Cour des Vosges (hotel.qantas.com.au/courdesvosges), a 17th-century townhouse on Place des Vosges in the city’s always happening Marais district, is anything but. In fact, it’s less like a hotel stay and more like scoring an invite to the home of erudite art-lovers with a penchant for ’70s décor and a bit of a sweet tooth.

At the hotel’s Salon de Thé, master pâtissier Yann Brys’ creations vie for attention with the golden magic of the Place des Vosges, a contemporary of the Palace of Versailles. The Salon is responsible for the breakfast trays delivered to guests’ doors so that a glossy, burnished pain au chocolat can be enjoyed in bed, an engrossing tome from the hotel’s collection in hand, crumbs on crisp sheets. Marie Antoinette would approve.

With just 12 rooms (six of them suites), the property is intimate. There’s no formal reception and the on-staff gallerist and

bibliophile (official title: book curator) have ensured walls are hung with artworks and shelves bulge with first editions.

The guestrooms, set over three floors, survey the grandeur of the square. Original beams and interior shutters contrast with 1970s chrome pieces and plush chairs. In a first- or second-floor Superior Suite (below), the ceiling soars five metres, there’s a deckedout kitchenette and the bed is surrounded by stainless steel panels that reduce the world to one large, comfortable mattress.

A secluded Roman-style bath occupies the lower-ground floor, while luxurious in-room La Colline treatments replace the spa.

Emmanuel Sauvage, managing director of Evok Hotels Collection, recommends the property’s Dolce Vita sur Seine experience, which floats guests upriver aboard an Italian Riva boat towards Île Saint-Louis. “You’ll have an unbeatable view of the monuments of Paris from the glassed-in cabin as you skim the water’s surface,” he says. And there is, of course, champagne.

PALÁCIO PRÍNCIPE REAL

LISBON, PORTUGAL

Some buildings have many lives. They never truly belong to anyone, their occupants mere transitory custodians. Amid the multi-hued façades and palm-lined parks of Lisbon’s gilded Príncipe Real quarter, Palácio Príncipe Real (palacioprincipe real.com), freshly flushed to a deep dusky-pink, is currently under the stewardship of British couple Miles and Gail Curley. They bought the 1877 palace in 2015, lavished it with love and antique blue-and-white tiles (azulejos) until it re-emerged, resplendent, as Lisbon’s most charming new hotel.

The Palácio’s former incarnation as the home of the noble Teixeira da Mota family and its place firmly entrenched at the centre of Lisbon society is fondly recalled by family members who drop in from time to time. “Many of them feel they’re back home when they close the green gates behind them,” says Gail.

The hotel’s guests have a similar feeling. Behind those gates, instead of a reception area there’s a lush, walled garden of gently nodding jacarandas, soaring palms and glossy-leafed lemon trees.

An infinity pool reflects the sky and, beyond it, guests sip local espumante on the terrace.

Each of the 28 rooms is different, with its own colour scheme, playful motifs and views over the garden. One room, recklessly large and decorated with Moorish stucco work, occupies the former ballroom; in another that was once the kitchen, the former cooking hearth is now a fireplace and an outsize copper bathtub replaces the pots and pans.

With warm bright days well into winter, Lisbon is a city where the sun fades the exteriors of historical palaces to a pleasing, peeling pastel and haunting fado music echoes from tiny restaurants and bars on cobbled streets.

In Portuguese, the word “saudade” means a kind of longing – a nostalgia for something that may never return. Those fortunate enough to visit Lisbon in the summertime may experience it, especially if a stay at Palácio Príncipe Real is part of the itinerary. Who knows? Perhaps the place was yours in a previous life.

Emily Bowden. Francisco Nogueira

PASSALACQUA

LAKE COMO, ITALY

Above the ochre rooftops of Moltrasio on the south-western edge of Lake Como, a magnificent 18th-century villa is ready to welcome guests. A private home until now, it has played host to the great and the good – famously, Passalacqua (passalacqua.it) was the setting for a passionate affair between the married Giuditta Cantù Turina and Vincenzo Bellini, Italy’s most romantic (and caddish) operatic composer. During a stay in 1831, Bellini composed two of his famous works, Norma and La Sonnambula, in the property’s Sala della Musica, now a suite named in his honour (he left Giuditta high and dry but why dwell?).

The villa was acquired in 2018 by the De Santis family of Lake Como hoteliers. Four years and AU$30 million later, it’s a love letter to beauty. Just 12 grand suites in the main villa and a further 12 spread between the Palazzo’s converted stables and the lakefront (Casa al Lago) mean villa life is unhurried and personal.

Rooms in the main house retain the original frescoes and stucco ceilings. Italian artistry can be seen everywhere you look, from the gilded Barbini mirrors to the hand-blown Murano glass chandeliers. Curtains of taffeta made in Como waltz on the breeze. Bathrooms are bedecked in hand-selected slabs of marble hailing from Carrara and Verona and personnel are outfitted by cult Italian label Giuliva Heritage.

If you arrive by boat, all around you’ll see pine-furred Alps tumbling to a halt at the placid, mirror-like lake and magnificent waterfront villas set in palm- and cypress-dotted gardens. Disembark at Passalacqua’s private jetty and you’ll be guided through an underground tunnel that leads to the idyllic ascending gardens. Floating on the wind is the scent of jasmine, burbles of conversation from guests sipping aperitivos on the terrace and, almost always, the wisp of a Bellini opera.

ETT HEM

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

Ett Hem (hotel.qantas.com.au/etthem) has nothing to hide. There’s no back-of-house at this stay of 22 rooms and three longer-stay apartments occupying three adjacent 1910 townhouses in Stockholm’s upmarket Lärkstaden neighbourhood. No “staff only” signs or phone-wielding receptionists. That’s because Ett Hem – it simply means “a home” in Swedish – was conceived as something more meaningful than a luxury hotel.

Of course, it’s a home better equipped and more carefully designed than most. Owner Jeanette Mix scoured the globe and worked with renowned interior designer Ilse Crawford to put together the collection of art, furnishings and fixtures that make the property an aesthete’s dream.

Many hotels discourage general hanging about but at Ett Hem, guests have the run of the house. That could mean tinkling away

on the grand piano in the living room or sinking into a soft sofa with a book from the regularly updated library. Guests are welcome to pour a glass of wine and take up a prime spot near the fireplace or carry a steaming cup of coffee through the conservatory and into the courtyard garden. This isn’t just somewhere to rest your head – it’s a place that invites you to interact, where you become a part of the story.

The true heart of Ett Hem, though, is the warm, buzzing kitchen. All meals are created here, in full view of guests who can pop in to chat with the chefs or make special requests. Homemade cakes and biscuits are offered on a help-yourself basis and the communal dining table makes for the most authentic chef’s-table experience, with convivial chatter, music and the clatter of pans accompanying the meal.

SANTO MAURO

MADRID, SPAIN

Much like its location, Santo Mauro (hotel.qantas.com.au/ santomauro) is tasteful, opulent and discreet. Taking its place among the mansions and palaces of Madrid’s leafy Chamberí neighbourhood, a short hop from the Prado and city centre and a 15-minute walk from the upmarket stores of Calle de Serrano, the 49-room hotel consists of three buildings. The grandest of them is a mansion built in 1894, the one-time home of Duke Mariano Fernández de Henestrosa y Ortiz de Mioño, known simply as the Duke of Santo Mauro.

Stepping into the property is a sensory experience. First, it’s the fragrance of fresh flowers. Next, the eyes are overwhelmed by extravagant furnishings and décor, evoking the Frenchinfluenced Madrid of the Duke’s time. Finally, a lilting soundtrack composed by in-house musical director Lucas Vidal. At the gilded Gresca Wine Bar, a Casilda cocktail – the Duchess of Santo Mauro’s

favourite – is a piquant combination of vodka, Campari and chestnut syrup made from ancient chestnut trees in the garden. But most thrilling is the sound of your shoes clacking as you mount the magnificent central marble staircase.

If the communal areas are visually staggering – the Red Room features every shade from coral to carmine – the 33 rooms and 16 suites are serene in champagne, green and ecru. Minibars go beyond the standard, with tasting platters and local wine.

While the service and surroundings evoke feelings of nobility, the only way to truly role-play royalty is to take up residence in the Duke’s Royal Suite. Located in the main palace, it was once his bedroom. Original light fixtures on the soaring ceilings cast a golden glow over green velvet walls; there are two king bedrooms, a living room and a decadent marble bathroom. Stand by the windows and survey your domain.

Greece

Ready, set, go!

Stay in Santorini, Nobu style

Japanese minimalism and Mediterranean flair embrace you at Nobu Santorini (hotel.qantas.com/nobusantorini) on the cliffs outside of Imerovigli, in the island’s north. Soak in the views of the volcanic caldera and long sunsets from your whitewashed cave-like accommodation fitted with timber finishes, pops of yellow and hand-thrown ceramics. Sip a jalapeño and ginger Martini by the dual-level infinity pool before heading to the hotel’s restaurant for the famous black cod miso and Wagyu dumplings with spicy ponzu.

Make the most of the Mediterranean and hit the hottest new hotels, boutique bars and hidden beaches in the Hellenic isles.

Explore Rhodes’ secret celebrity beach

Just 20 minutes drive from Rhodes’ capital you’ll find Anthony Quinn Bay, near the seaside town of Faliraki. The bay was named after the famous Zorba the Greek star who was enamoured with the island after filming The Guns of Navarone. The city of Rhodes’ rich military history has left the ruins of ancient forts in the capital and a labyrinth of laneways studded with street stalls serving gyros stuffed with grilled pork, tomatoes, onion and tzatziki.

Drink in ancient Athens’ modern bar scene

The old city is becoming a cocktail capital of Europe thanks to a new wave of buzzy bars. Hidden on a Monastiraki rooftop is City Zen (cityzenathens.gr), a breezy spot with views of the Acropolis for seasonal cocktails like the Zen Tai – a riff on a Mai Tai with pineapple liqueur and rum. Industrial design meets sustainability at newcomer Line Athens (lineathens.gr). The bar’s home-grown ethos is showcased in its own grapeless fruit “wines” like the Fig Whyin, with notes of brioche, pistachio and orange.

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SOUTHERN

CHARM

FOR YEARS, THE GLAMOROUS SOUTH OF FRANCE HAD A DIRTY SECRET – BUT NOT ANYMORE. TODAY, ONCE-GRITTY MARSEILLE HAS FOUND ITS PLACE IN THE SUN, WRITES KENDALL HILL.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANN PAI

Malmousque Bay (above); Charly Pizza in the Noailles district (right)

“Such a powerful landscape,” my friend Guillaume sighs as we sit crab-like on a limestone outcrop above emerald Malmousque Bay, drying in the hot sun between swims. Behind us, Marseille rises in an untidily beautiful arrangement of pastel villas, cottages, apartment blocks and even a rest house for Foreign Legionnaires. In front of us, the mirage-like shimmer of the Frioul archipelago and Château d’If, a former prison island that was, in the early 16th century, briefly home to a velvet-collared rhinoceros (in transit to the Vatican, a gift from the King of Portugal). In Marseille, anything feels possible.

France’s second city is a labyrinth; a swirling maze of streets, alleys and stairways etched into a rugged coastline shaped like a natural amphitheatre. Its residents live stacked on top of each other, all craning for a glimpse of the Mediterranean – the life force of the Marseillais.

Post-swim, we wander back along Chemin du Génie (The Way of the Genie) to discover a neighbourhood garage has morphed into a bar. We grab two Cagole beers, take a seat on the kerb in the scented shade of oleanders and pines, and shoot the breeze as beachgoers of all ages and colours head home.

Like many Parisians, Guillaume is a recent convert to the charms of Marseille. Long stereotyped as gritty, the city’s fortunes got a major boost with the début of the TGV high-speed train in 2001 and a major makeover ahead of its star turn as European Capital of Culture in 2013. Now just a few easy hours from Paris, Marseille’s climate, culture and lower costs have lured new blood and ideas from across France and Europe.

Les Bords de Mer hotel (opposite); a shopfront in the Noailles district (left); a dish of fish, prawns and mussels at L’Auberge du Corsaire Chez Paul restaurant in the village of Les Goudes (below)

“What’s changed is the appreciation of the city,” explains writer and guide Alexis Steinman. “Lots of Parisians have moved here. Why this city has a lot of energy is that juxtaposition of being very working-class but also lots of money coming in.”

Most visitors arrive at Saint-Charles railway station, the terminus for both the TGV and the airport-city shuttle. It’s worth pausing here for a moment to admire the monumental staircase that leads down to La Canebière, Marseille’s slightly shabby answer to the Champs-Élysées. Ornate sculptures depict the city’s foundation by Greek sailors around 600BCE and its later incarnations as Gateway to the Orient and an unlikely capital of Provence. Majestic and pedestrian, the staircase is Marseille in a single monument.

From the bottom of the stairs it’s a short walk to Boulevard de la Libération, a once-bourgeois strip now lined with antique shops, art galleries and restaurants serving food from India, Lebanon, Mexico, Greece and Syria. Marseille is France’s most diverse city, the rewards on full display in the nearby market district of Noailles where shopfronts sell everything from Corsican chestnut jam to Madagascan pepper. Wandering its streets I smell cumin and cloves and baked snacks from Turkey, Morocco, Egypt and Algeria. At mother-and-son-run Charly Pizza (24 rue des Feuillants; +33 4 91 54 08 83), a staple since 1962, the lines are three deep as locals queue for a moit-moit, half anchovy, half cheese. Revival and integration are recurring themes around here. Algerian-born architect Rudy Ricciotti’s starkly elegant Museum of Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean (MuCEM) marries a 17th-century fortress with a Modernist cube shrouded in mashrabiya-style lattice. It captures both the city’s North African soul and its seamless embrace of past and future.

My friend Elise remembers the Vieux-Port (Old Port) of her childhood as an unfriendly snarl of traffic with just one pedestrian strip. Today it’s the de facto town square and a thriving waterfront anchored by Norman Foster’s mirrored steel Ombrière canopy at central Quai des Belges, which reflects the luminous charm of what is one of Europe’s loveliest natural harbours.

Vieux-Port is the city’s origin story, the historic gateway through which riches and people poured in. But the modern spirit of Marseille is found along its seafront boulevard, the Corniche du

The Museum of Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean

Président John F. Kennedy. From the Old Port this coastal road threads its way along limestone cliffs via chateaux and palaces, beaches and bays with evocative names (False Money Bay, Prophet’s Beach), private swimming clubs, fashionable restaurants, a racecourse and even, at the Prado Beach roundabout, a full-sized replica of Michelangelo’s David

The Corniche is the prestige place to stay, either mainstream at the Sofitel Vieux Port (hotel.qantas.com.au/sofitelvieuxport), where half the rooms have harbour views, or at Les Bords de Mer (hotel.qantas.com.au/lesbordsdemer), a stunning small hotel anchored on rocks directly above the ocean.

The coast road continues south to the Calanques National Park, the striking natural playground of rocky fjords where the Marseillais spend their summers sprawled on pebbly shores or on yachts and power boats anchored in the warm Mediterranean waters.

Ideally, if I’ve spent a day in the Calanques it ends with dinner in the village of Les Goudes, where fishermen’s cottages share the waterfront with seafood restaurants, such as Le Grand Bar (grand bardesgoudes.fr). I like to arrive at sunset when the limestone land glows pink and the narrow streets fill with the tanned and happy.

Inside the cramped restaurant the mood is excitable and loud as whole crabs and hearty bowls of bourride seafood stew sail across the room en route to tables. Grand Bar’s staff recite specials in delicious detail, tantalising with their descriptions of how the seafood is cooked, sauced and served. To drink, a Provençal rosé is always the correct choice.

Driving home afterwards along the Corniche, the Bee Gees blaring on the radio and windows open to the salt air, the sounds and carnival colours of a hot summer’s night, Marseille feels, as always, wonderfully alive.

La Samaritaine brasserie at Vieux-Port (above left); Catalans Beach (above right)

The Luxe List

Private islands, lake-sized swimming pools and epic views. With the new Qantas Luxury Holidays, your next stay comes with all the extras.

Regent Phu Quoc, Vietnam

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Luxe tropical escape

Crystalbrook Riley

It’s the swimming pool of holiday dreams –a turquoise lagoon crossed by footbridges, harbouring secretive coves and edged by its own beach, with views directly over the Coral Sea. This 1000-square-metre aquatic playground is the centrepiece of Cairns’ five-star Crystalbrook Riley, where you can laze in a Miami-inspired private cabana. Give in to the tropical pace and while away a day with a poolside host delivering necessities, from towels to charcuterie and champagne.

Towering above the pool is the 12-storey torch-shaped glass tower, capped by the city’s highest rooftop bar and restaurant, Rocco. The Mediterranean-inspired menu is served on a terrace with a 270-degree panorama of the ocean and cityscape. Back on ground level, the Eléme Spa will keep you in the flow with restorative therapies such as the warm lava seashell massage or the 300-minute full-body “ultimate safari” treatment.

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Luxe interiors

QT Auckland

There’s no doubt about it. Auckland’s boutique hotel newcomer is an extrovert, bringing personality, eclectic art and quirky design to the inner-city’s Viaduct precinct. A stay is an adventure and it starts in the lobby, where you’ll find the digital-art installation by America’s acclaimed Jennifer Steinkamp and hand-blown glass sculptures from Nic Graham. It continues into the jewel-toned rooms that manage to marry sleek, Mid-century lines with funky chairs and oyster-shaped mirrors.

It’s easy to see why the city’s glamour crowd has adopted the sixth-floor rooftop bar as its own, with Espresso Martinis on tap and cushion-strewn outdoor lounges taking in views of the yachts on Auckland’s harbour. Signature restaurant Esther is its own scene. Acclaimed chef Sean Connolly is in charge of a showpiece open kitchen, where an emeraldgreen cooking range cranks out Mediterranean seafood classics and puffy bread emerges from a golden, woodfired oven dubbed the “disco ball”.

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Luxe haven

Regent Phu Quoc, Vietnam

Even the most seen-it-all spa aficionado will find something new at Vietnam’s glamorous beachfront newcomer. Its destination spa is a serene oasis offering massage-enhancing cocooning quartz sand beds, acoustic therapies and indulgent “spa journeys”. On the way to wellness, expect a preparatory sauna, aromatic bath, body mask and hot stone massage. Hit peak zen with guided meditation and sun salutations – choose from the rooftop, indoor or outdoor yoga pavilion.

The resort blends elegantly into its sand-hugging location on Phu Quoc Island’s

pristine Long Beach and it has been hailed as the new pinnacle of Vietnamese resorts since opening in April 2022.

Suites and villas (there are no standard rooms here) boast marble, teak and hints of gold with the fresh addition of flowers. You will discover culinary experiences, too, with six dining options, including the Oku restaurant, where a modern French-Japanese menu stars bluefin toro sashimi and premium Wagyu steak.

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Luxe experiences

InterContinental Fiji Resort & Spa

Whether you’re relaxing, dining or getting involved with pool activites, this five-star resort on Fiji’s main island will delight all members of the family.

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Luxe indulgence

Travel to Paris without leaving Queensland’s sun-kissed spectacle at this grandest of hotel grandes dames. Start the day at the poolside Bistro3, where an extravagant buffet includes light croissants worthy of the finest boulangerie.

Room81 has formed a reputation as one of the coast’s best restaurants, thanks to its classic French dishes built on prime produce from the Coral Sea and the fertile hinterland. You can expect golden-skinned snapper served Provençal-style with roasted peppers

and sauce vierge or salad niçoise elevated by five-spice-seared tuna.

A short walk from the glamorous lobby will take you to the white sands of Broadbeach but the two lagoon-style swimming pools exert their own tidal pull. The patio is the perfect spot for an apéritif against a background of swaying palm trees. And the dazzling Pacific Ocean views from the balcony of a spacious Superior Ocean View room make a strong case for staying in for sunset, with a bottle of Veuve Clicquot from the room-service menu.

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Book through Qantas Holidays and stay three nights in a Superior Ocean View Queen Room to enjoy:

$ 100 food and beverage

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S tay five nights or more an d receive an additional

$ 50 food and beverage credit

PRICE FROM $975

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Or use Qantas Points

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Sofitel Gold Coast Broadbeach

Luxe beachfront

Bali Mandira Beach Resort and Spa

First impressions? Pure, blissful serenity. This Legian beachfront resort is nestled in two hectares of lush green gardens, with calm ponds and village-style paths winding between wooden temples and Balinese cottages.

The resort offers something for everyone. The little ones will love the kids club, while adults can spend their days in the lagoon-style oceanfront swimming pool, complete with swim-up bars, water slides and private

cabanas. Visit the Glow Spa, a sanctuary made for full immersion, with private treatment rooms inspired by the royal Balinese garden.

Evenings, however, call for ultimate indulgence. A tiki cocktail – perhaps an Island Nectar, with gin, vodka, passionfruit, orange juice and coconut syrup – at the Azul Beach Club is the perfect way to take in the sunset over the water.

QANTAS HOLIDAYS

LIMITED-EDITION OFFER

Book through Qantas Holidays and stay five nights to enjoy: Room upgrade to Deluxe Cottage*

Daily buffet breakfast and f ree-flow happy hour at C elagi Restaurant

Two-course lunch at Azul Beach Club

10% food and beverage discount at Azul Beach Club

PRICE FROM $1,265

SAVE 43%

Or use Qantas Points

Book with a flight and save

Offer ends 31 January 2023

Luxe harbour views

Four Seasons Sydney

Towering above the city’s dress circle –between The Rocks and Circular Quay, with the harbour, bridge and Opera House on its doorstep – Four Seasons Sydney delivers postcard views through each guestroom’s floor-to-ceiling windows. Whether you’re looking at the dazzling harbour or the equally captivating city skyline, it’s a very Sydney experience.

Hip cocktail bar Grain is a favourite with the post-work crowd and MODE Kitchen & Bar – which was recently awarded a Chef’s Hat – serves local produce like Blackmore Wagyu beef tartare and caviar.

The hotel’s signature experiences include jogging maps customised to local sights and an in-room Bath Master Experience, which uses native ingredients.

When you book through Qantas Holidays, you’ll receive exclusive limited-time offers like restaurant vouchers and luxury transfers. You’ll also earn 3 points per $1 spent, plus Status Credits on flights. Visit qantas.com/luxuryholidays

QANTAS HOLIDAYS

LIMITED-EDITION OFFER

Book through Qantas Holidays and stay three nights to enjoy:

Room upgrade to Deluxe Partial Harbour Room

B reakfast for two at MODE

K itchen & Bar

$200 food and beverage

c redit per room

Two signature welcome drinks at Grain bar per room

PRICE FROM $1,299

SAVE 42%

Or use Qantas Points

Book with a flight and save

Offer ends 15 February 2023

Luxe private island

InterContinental Hayman Island Resort

The most exclusive address in the Whitsunday Islands is perched on the edge of the Great Barrier Reef and it’s perfectly positioned for a heli-tour to natural icons such as Heart Reef or Whitehaven Beach. If you’re after something more secluded, the resort’s speedboat is waiting to whisk you to a nearby island for a romantic picnic.

The pristine tropical location is referenced in pops of blue across the 182 rooms, suites and villas. Australian clay, crystals and kelp

are used in holistic treatments for ultimate relaxation under the palms.

Luxury begins with the mode of arrival – will it be a catamaran or helicopter – and continues to the lake-sized swimming pool overlooking the Coral Sea, which is lapping the sand only metres away. Cabanas with plantation blinds and hanging wicker chairs make a strong case for day-long lounging, fuelled by prawn cocktails and fish tacos from Aqua, the poolside restaurant.

QANTAS HOLIDAYS

LIMITED-EDITION OFFER

Book through Qantas Holidays and stay three nights in a King Premium Lagoon Room to enjoy:

Daily gourmet breakfast at Pacific Restaurant

$ 150 food and beverage credit

p lus two cocktails per day

Return transfers for two

Two cocktails per day and ch eese platter on arrival

PRICE FROM $3,265

SAVE 26%

Or use Qantas Points

Book with a flight and save

Offer ends 10 February 2023

Luxe villa

Jumeirah Bali

Located in Bali’s Uluwatu, this resort borrows the tranquil aesthetics of a 14th-century Javanese-Hindu water palace with its elegant pavilions, terraced gardens and reflective pools. The importance of water to the Majapahit Empire is showcased in each ultraprivate garden villa, where carved stone walls cloister a pool and an airy wooden pavilion shades a daybed overlooking the property’s lush old-growth trees.

Expect chic interiors mixing local design with modern understatement, an on-call butler service and bespoke experiences,

such as a candlelit dinner on your terrace. There’s a wow-packing infinity pool that overlooks the ocean, as well as a spa with a Turkish hammam, where cleansing rituals include a salt-and-clay exfoliation massage on the heated marble slab.

At the Segaran Dining Terrace, Indonesian dishes such as beef cheek rendang and chicken satay are elevated with premium produce. There’s also the chance to take part in a sunrise water purification ritual on the beach or a blessing at the resort’s own temple.

QANTAS HOLIDAYS

LIMITED-EDITION OFFER

Book through Qantas Holidays and stay four nights in a Garden Villa with Private Pool to enjoy: Daily breakfast at Segaran

D ining Terrace

6 0-minute spa for two people at Talise Spa

O ne time resort credit of I DR 1,000,000

E xclusive beach access to Dreamland Beach

PRICE FROM $4,875

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Or use Qantas Points

Book with a flight and save

Offer ends 31 January 2023

Book with Qantas Holidays and receive exclusive offers that can’t be found anywhere else, from spa treatments to room upgrades. Plus, you’ll use 30%-45% less points when you book your next luxury holiday at qantas.com/luxuryholidays

Luxe ocean views

COMO Point Yamu, Thailand

Sunglasses are essential at this slick modern eyrie, which is perched at the tip of a Thai peninsula with the dazzling Phang Nga Bay on one side and the Andaman Sea on the other. The infinity-edged swimming pool and its sun terrace hover above the seemingly endless water, while rooms and suites – all with floor-to-ceiling windows, the Bay Suites delivering ocean views – weave a subtly nautical theme with a colour scheme of blue on white.

The Italian-accented airy poolside La Sirena restaurant offers chargrilled prawns and sea bass with Sicilian-style peperonata and lemon, as well as famously healthy COMO Shambhala cuisine with its raw and organic dishes. If you came on a rejuvenation mission, visit the famed spa, where restorative treatments – like a traditional body scrub using galangal and lemongrass – are rich with local wisdom.

QANTAS HOLIDAYS

LIMITED-EDITION OFFER

Book through Qantas Holidays and stay five nights in a Bay Suite to enjoy:

Daily half board (breakfast a nd lunch or dinner)

A 60-minute COMO Shambhala

massage per person

Thai cooking class per couple

$ 500THB food and beverage c redit per day

PRICE FROM $1, 699

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Or use Qantas Points

Book with a flight and save

Offer ends 10 February 2023

Our experts have curated exclusive offers that are available for a limited time only. Plus, you’ll save when you bundle your hotel and flights. Book with Qantas Holidays today. Visit qantas.com/luxuryholidays

Touring special report

From camel-trekking across the Gobi to an Arctic audience with Santa, these are the world’s leading classic and cool touring experiences. By Dilvin Yasa

Adventure

Go classic in New Zealand

“Do you want to plummet off a bridge or jump out of a plane? Maybe you prefer to throttle through the water on a jet boat? There’s little we can’t organise,” enthuses Greg Marett, general manager operations at AAT Kings (aatkings.com). Marett isn’t being threatening; he’s simply advising just how much additional adrenaline can be injected into the already pulse-quickening New Zealand Magic adventure, a 17-day tour for up to 48 guests that covers both North and South islands.

The journey, from Christchurch to Auckland, features plenty of iconic sights: optional scenic flights over gem-like Franz Josef Glacier; cruising at Milford Sound; a dip in Rotorua’s famous hot springs; and glow-worm touring at Waitomo Caves.

Happily, the trip (which includes some meals, 3.5-star accommodation and an experienced travel director and driver) is flexible so guests can book additional activities on free days or simply relax by the hotel pool. Marett’s favourite part?

“The adventure element is fantastic but what really blows people away is the contrast of scenery. You’ll start your morning in the city, be in the high Southern Alps by lunch and then be walking around a temperate rainforest by late afternoon. And it’s like that every single day.”

Go cool in Mongolia

There’s popular adventure and then there’s next-level touring through Mongolia’s Gobi Desert on the back of a camel, before turning in for star-sprinkled nights in gers (traditional tents). Blame our postpandemic thirst for meaning and solitude but travel to far-flung places where activities are rooted in cultural immersion has never been more desirable – a trend well-suited to TripADeal’s Mongolian Adventure tour (tripadeal.com.au).

Created for groups of up to seven travellers keen to experience the Mongolian nomadic lifestyle, this journey through ancient lands brings together a collection of once-in-a-lifetime moments, from hiking the crystalline ice valley of Yolyn Am to trekking the singing sand dunes of Khongor and swimming at UNESCO-listed Orkhon Waterfall and relaxing at Tsenkher Hot Springs.

“You don’t have to be particularly active but you need to have a sense of adventure and bring an open mind,” says Pete Timbs, TripADeal’s business development manager. “Despite all the activity, most people who come back from the trip talk about how calm and peaceful Mongolia is, untouched by the Western lifestyle.”

The tour includes return flights, accommodation in hotels and gers, as well as experiences such as a city tour of Ulaanbaatar and a Mongolian höömii (throat-singing) concert. You’ll need to get in quick, says Timbs. “Some gers now have electricity so if you want to capture that side of Mongolia, which is likely to disappear in the next decade or so, now is the time to go.”

Family

Go classic in Lapland

Is it a tour or the opening paragraph of a novel set in the Arctic?

To hear Mari Räsänen, general manager at 50 Degrees North (fiftydegreesnorth.com), speak about the company’s Lapland Winter Magic tour – her sentences peppered with phrases such as “pines heaving under thick snow” and “sleigh rides to toasty 200-year-old log cabins” – you’ll likely lean towards the latter.

The popular six-day escorted itinerary happens in the remote Finnish village of Äkäslompolo, some 200 kilometres above the Arctic Circle. Widely considered to be the ultimate Christmas family holiday, the expedition (catering for up to six families at a time) brings together a collection of Hallmark-level festive pursuits: husky-sledding, snowmobiling, cookie decorating and even a reindeer-led sleigh ride through the forest direct to Santa’s private residence.

“The kids are always dumbstruck when they meet Santa and discover he knows everything about them,” says Räsänen of their annual late December adventure. “It’s a highlight – and you get the extra benefit of knowing that your kids will behave the following year.”

Lapland Winter Magic includes five nights accommodation in a cosy cabin (complete with fireplace and sauna), most meals, equipment hire, activities and, since the experience takes place in a town where the street lights are switched off in the afternoon, a chance to see the Northern Lights.

Go cool in Mozambique

When discussing the world’s environmental challenges with teenagers, do you: a) watch a Netflix documentary together or b) visit the marine-rich waters of Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago to dive and learn how to help protect its fragile ecosystem?

For the ultimate parent/teenager bonding opportunity, &beyond’s (andbeyond.com) WILDchild Eco-guide Challenge in Mozambique provides a local divemaster-led tour with trips to sites at Two Mile Reef – considered one of the best places to dive and snorkel in East Africa.

The five-day itinerary (for four to eight guests) was designed for eco-conscious teens, says Nicole Robinson, chief marketing officer for &Beyond. “Our aim is for teens to become more aware of the impact of their choices on the environment and to channel their natural passion and enthusiasm into making a difference.”

Twin-share accommodation at Benguerra Island – a hideaway set on a protected lagoon – is special but Robinson says the highlight is “the range of experiences that allow for a reconnection with the natural world and with each other”. Options include scubadiving lessons, dinner with the conservation team from Oceans Without Borders and a host of activities that range from horseback riding on the beach to a village tour.

That’s not all; true to its name, each guest is challenged on what they’ve learnt during their excursions – earning certificates and prizes along the way – so they can continue the work at home.

Wildlife

Go classic in East Africa

Sundowner stories flow thick and fast in the savannas of East Africa, from lions procuring gazelles for dinner to elephants trumpeting in muddy baths and, of course, the break-and-enter habits of the local primate population.

For travellers anxious that sharing sleeping quarters with Africa’s finest means roughing it, Brett Mitchell, Intrepid Travel’s managing director Australia and New Zealand (intrepidtravel. com) emphasises the premium element in the company’s 15-day Premium Kenya & Tanzania tour. “Getting up close and personal with wildlife will always be the highlight but this tour is about being immersed in local communities that have a rich culture, too. Travellers will enjoy boutique eco camps with modern comforts and a range of activities like four-wheel game drives, private bush dinners under the stars, boat trips and sunset drinks.”

The trip, capped at 12 guests, provides a front-row seat to the landscapes and wildlife of Maasai-Mara National Reserve, Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park, and includes a series of game drives and accommodation in a range of tented camps, lodges and hotels. It also features a visit to a Maasai community that champions women’s health and education.

Go cool in Tahiti

Cuddles with the Big Five might be ill-advised but those keen for a more immersive wildlife experience can do no better than jump in with the humpbacks as they travel to the azure waters of Tahiti for their annual holiday.

Majestic Whale Encounters (majesticwhaleencounters.com.au) offers you the opportunity to swim daily with the humpbacks, dolphins, pilot whales, sharks, rays and turtles on its seven-night Luxury Tahiti Whales, Islands & Wildlife Tour, sailing off the coast of idyllic Moorea, the quieter sibling of Bora Bora.

“I was there a couple of weeks ago when a calf began following me; she breached regularly while her mother proudly watched on from beneath us,” says Carmen Ellis, CEO and founder of Majestic Whale Encounters. “It’s one of the most incredible and moving experiences you could ever hope to have.”

Touring in September and October, the 54-foot, 2021-build catamaran comes fully crewed with a skipper, chef and Majestic guide and treats up to 12 marine-enthusiasts to six double cabins (each with ensuite) as well as those magical swim sessions.

Experiences aren’t only limited to aquatic expeditions; guests are free to hop off the boat regularly to find Moorea’s best poisson cru in its waterfront restaurants, explore the vast network of lush hiking trails or visit a village for a cultural encounter. “The whales might be the drawcard,” says Ellis, “but what I really love about this tour is that it encompasses the very best of the islands of Tahiti.”

Bucket list

Go classic in South America

Ask Michelle Mickan, head of marketing at Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent.com.au), to describe the company’s 12-day Wonders of the Galápagos and Machu Picchu tour in one word and she doesn’t miss a beat. “Breathtaking. When you’re standing there and taking in the grandeur of Machu Picchu, you’re overcome with all these questions: why was it built, how was it built and why was it hidden for so long?” she says. “Then there’s the Galápagos, where you come face-to-face with animals in their purest form and suddenly all the pieces of evolution fall into place. There’s an amazing amount to see and even more to think about.”

The tour begins in the Galápagos, observing rainbow-hued marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies from the comfort of a luxury 48-passenger vessel with twice-daily shore excursions, from snorkelling trips to nature walks. The second leg in Peru sees guests (up to 18) enjoy an exclusive visit to a village in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, a tour of Machu Picchu (staying at the only on-site hotel), plus an opportunity to customise a day in the ancient city of Cusco. “To have one tour that encompasses wildlife and nature, as well as history and culture, you’re ticking every box.” Internal air transfers, luxury accommodation, a tour director and local guides are all included.

Go cool in Israel and

Jordan

By his own admission, Tal Segal, tour director at Globus (globus. com.au), has done the company’s nine-day Journey Through the Holy Land tour across Israel and Jordan “many times” but the thrill of being in such sacred places never abates.

“There’s always a feeling of great excitement and discovery as guests embark on this experience, which connects people to profound religious and historical sites dating back thousands of years,” he says. “I sometimes see guests in tears during the tour – especially when we enter the Church of the Holy Sepulchre [below] or the Church of the Nativity.”

Travelling an ancient path that begins in Tel Aviv and ends in Jerusalem, guests (up to 44 maximum) visit the holiest sites in the Christian world. The stories of scripture are brought to life, from the places where Jesus was born and walked on water to viewing the room of the Last Supper in Mount Zion.

Treading the fine line between historical education and fun (a scenic cruise on Lake Tiberias and a dip in the Dead Sea are part of the experience), the coach tour includes accommodation, most breakfasts and dinners, as well as all activities.

ANTARCTICA A Journey Like No Other

Discover the pristine wilderness of Antarctica in ultimate comfort and style aboard our modern scandi-design, spacious, premium small-ship expeditions.

Our Expedition Team will share their in-depth knowledge and expertise on the daily shore landings or onboard in our world leading Science Centre. Participate in Citizen Science research led by our friends at UTAS and the Institute for

Marine and Antarctic studies. Hurtigruten Expeditions’ explorers enjoy landings, trekking, zodiac cruising and the adventurous can sea kayak or even choose to camp on the ice overnight.

This is a bucket list journey of luxury as you choose to dine in our three spectacular restaurants, relax in the chic explorer bar with unhindered views or refresh in our health and wellness centre, spa, sauna, and pool.

Choose from our three expedition ships, multiple itineraries and departures on the world’s leading hybrid-powered, sustainable fleet. Get ready for an adventure like no other.

142 Embrace slow living at this retreat on Portugal’s coast

148 The lamp that transforms simple shapes into art

RACHEL LEES

PA.TE.OS, MELIDES, PORTUGAL

Built to frame the rugged landscape, a quartet of chic courtyard houses showcase the Alentejo coast.

The sea breeze mingles with the sweet scent of esteva (gum rockrose) on the outskirts of Melides, a village on Portugal’s Alentejo coast just over an hour from Lisbon. In a landscape of cork oaks, pine and olive trees, hoteliers Miguel and Sofia Charters have built four courtyard houses on an 80-hectare property overlooking the Atlantic Ocean (pateos.pt). “My wife and I have been coming to Alentejo since our childhood,” says Miguel. “We built Pa.te.os so we could have family and friends close to us. It’s an extension of our home, our values and our way of life.”

Constructed from bare concrete, European oak and stone, the houses comprise one-, two- and three-bedroom suites and are designed to frame and blend into the natural environment. Portuguese artist Olga Sanina used foliage from the property to create artworks, one for each house, which represent the four seasons. “Disappearing” glass doors blur the lines between the minimalist Scandi-inspired interiors and the outside, while fireplaces, underfloor heating and air-conditioning ensure guests enjoy every season in comfort.

“We love slow living and the beauty of the simple things in life, like sitting around a long table sharing an amazing meal,” says Miguel. Soon, a private chef will be on hand to whip up meals incorporating aromatic herbs and strawberries from the garden. The couple also has an eight-hectare vineyard on site. The best way to enjoy a glass, says Miguel, is with “the view of the fields and the Atlantic Ocean at sunset, breathing in the scent of the esteva”.

P HOTOGRAPHY BY FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA

SHAUN DANIEL ALLEN (SHAL)

“I guess I’m part of a bunch of different subcultures,” says Yugambeh/Bundjalung artist Shaun Daniel Allen (Shal), describing the opening night crowd at his debut solo exhibition Balun –meaning “river” – in May 2021. The professional tattooist (who also sings in a handful of hardcore bands) recalls how it differed from the usual art world set, even by the somewhat edgier standards of China Heights Gallery in Sydney’s Surry Hills (chinaheights.com). “There was Mob from all over and people I knew from doing graffiti, mates from tattooing and people from the punk world as well. All of my friends in one spot.”

His works – contemporary, fluid explorations that Shal says made themselves known as water without any conscious intent from him – came about as a form of meditative escapism, painted on the floor of his garage as he grappled with issues of identity and connection. “Painting turned into a way to connect with the deepest parts of myself. I grew up on the [Gold] Coast and in the waterways of Northern NSW. When I look back at my childhood, all the good times revolved around water.”

It was an introduction to Edward Woodley and Nina Treffkorn of China Heights Gallery that took Shal’s paintings from personal explorations to something more, with the duo offering him first a residency and then his own show. “I can’t even believe any of this stuff has come from me just painting with two-dollar acrylics on butchers paper.” And it’s big stuff, by any standard.

Since Balun opened last year, Shal’s meteoric rise has included high-end sales through China Heights, live-painting at the Art Gallery of NSW and the Powerhouse Museum and, recently, a mural inside Sydney’s boutique Ace Hotel.

The artist’s evolving process reveals a move towards natural dyes, in particular ochre, something he’s been learning to forage up on the Gold Coast and that’s featured more heavily in his November show. “It’s nice when people buy stuff but it’s not what drives me,” he says, adding that his greatest reward has been the conversations his works have prompted with people who have had similar experiences. “I didn’t realise being vulnerable would make people so vulnerable in return.”

What began with two-dollar acrylic paints and butchers paper has become an exploration of identity featured in leading Sydney galleries.

Exhibited at:

China Heights Gallery, Sydney; Art Gallery of NSW, Sydney; Powerhouse Museum, Sydney

Breakthrough moment:

“Seeing my name go from the associate artists list to the represented list at China Heights Gallery.”

What the critics say:

“On opening night, people just sat on the floor and cried.” – Edward Woodley, artist and China Heights gallerist

STAVROS NIARCHOS FOUNDATION CULTURAL CENTER, ATHENS

An arts hub in the Greek capital proves modern buildings can sit in ancient settings, says Australian architect Jefa Greenaway.

I saw the centre on my first family trip to Europe with my wife, Catherine, in 2019. She’s also an architect and Greece is the birthplace of my parents-in-law. While we were there, I met up with another friend who’s an architect and we were really surprised by this project in the heart of Athens. It’s an amazing piece of architecture by one of the world’s pre-eminent architects, Renzo Piano.

It houses the National Library of Greece and the Greek National Opera. Piano designed the SNFCC with local firm Betaplan. They started in 2008 and it wasn’t completed until 2016 so it had a massive duration in terms of realising the project. The site was the former parking lot of the 2004 Olympic Games and it’s only about four kilometres to the centre of Athens.

It’s surprising and quite striking in contrast to the city of Athens, where you’re enveloped in ancient history. The building has a skillion roof, with an expansive 170,000-square-metre Mediterranean landscape on top of it, where olive trees and native grasses were planted to encourage bird life and so on. The SNFCC was designed as an artificial hill or high point and has a viewing deck that gives a 360-degree outlook of the port and the city.

There are strong sustainability initiatives embedded in the project. It has 10,000 square metres of photovoltaic cells on the canopy roof, which power the whole precinct. That integrated approach to architecture blurs the boundaries between landscape and built form, with a sustainability agenda that’s part of the project’s DNA. It’s inspiring in that regard.

The whole project was funded by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation. The Center was named in honour of Greek shipping magnate and philanthropist Stavros Niarchos, who was a fierce rival of Aristotle Onassis. By virtue of being funded through the foundation, the materials used are very luxe and high-end so you have excellent design quality. The foundation gave the complex to the Greek state in 2017.

Wailwan and Kamilaroi man Jefa Greenaway has championed Indigenousled design for more than 25 years. The trailblazing architect established his holistic design practice (greenawayarchitects.com.au) in 1998 and is a senior lecturer at The University of Melbourne.

Yiorgis

Yerolymbos,

Vassilis Makris

ATOLLO LAMP

An out-of-the box design turned a light into an art piece.

“I love geometric shapes. I love doing essential things that look like nothing.” The words and philosophy of Italian architect and designer Vico Magistretti were written across the walls of an exhibition in 2020 to mark the centenary of his birth.

In 1977, having already designed an experimental Milanese neighbourhood, a church, numerous villas, plus the furniture within, Magistretti lit upon one of his most enduring creations. As principal designer and art director of Italian lighting company Oluce, his preoccupation with functional simplicity saw him redraw a bedside lamp, artfully balancing three solid shapes to arrive at the striking Atollo.

The silhouette was uncomplicated but the lamp integrated the latest technology to cast both direct and diffused light in a design so brilliant, it won the prestigious Compasso d’Oro award in 1979.

The Atollo is part of the permanent collection of The Museum of Modern Art in New York and now a fixture in global design galleries and edgy film sets, including Tom Ford’s Nocturnal Animals

And with lamps in the “mushroom” mould back in the limelight, Magistretti’s ever-elegant creation is popping up on consoles, bedsides and desks the world over. The small model starts at $1974 (euroluce.com.au), while originals can

attract prices upwards of $5000 on 1stDibs (1stdibs.com).

Sonia Simpfendorfer, director of interiors at Nexus Designs (nexusdesigns. com.au), uses the Atollo in both period homes and contemporary settings. “I love its almost-too-big head resting on the slightly stubby pencil-point base,” she says. “It’s a highly engaging, timeless shape.”

Speaking to design magazine Domus in 1993, Magistretti said, “A piece of furniture becomes eternal if it can survive at least 50 years: after that, it is forever.” The designer died in 2006 but four years out from its 50-year milestone, Atollo ensures his legacy lives on.

1. R.M. Williams shirt, $139, rmwilliams.com.au. Venroy swim shorts, $120, venroy.com.au. Garett Leight sunglasses, $460, garrettleight.eu. IWC Portugieser Automatic stainless steel 40-millimetre watch, $12,500, iwc.com. 2. Hublot Classic Fusion Ceramic Blue Chronograph 42-millimetre watch, $16,500, hublot.com. 3. Olebar Brown swim shorts, $395, orlebarbrown.com. Cos slides, $190, cos.com. 4. Venroy top, $170, venroy.com.au. Garett Leight sunglasses, $440, garrettleight.eu. Baina towel, $130, shopbaina.com.

Look

Style tip

Try a watch with a ceramic dial in deep nautical blue – a fusion of sleek design and functionality.

COASTAL COOL

Team knit tops and ’70s-inspired hues with on-trend accessories to bring your look up-to-date.

STYLING BY LUCY WOOD

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL GOODE

HAIR, GROOMING AND MAKE-UP BY PETER

BEARD

1. Matteau bikini top, $145, and briefs, $145, matteau-store.com. Ahlem sunglasses, $750, ahlemeyewear.com. 2. Paspaley Dive 18-carat yellow-gold charm necklace, $27,980, paspaley.com. 3. Eres swimsuit, $725, eresparis.com. Ziah sarong, $279, ziah.com.au. Mejuri 18-carat gold-plated earrings, $198, mejuri.com. Dinosaur Designs brass choker, $815, dinosaurdesigns.com.au. Holly Ryan 18-carat gold-plated sterling silver bangle, $600, hrjewellery.com.au. 4. BOSS sandals, $349, hugoboss.com.au. Rylan bag, $329, rylan.studio. Shot on location at Dovecote, Gerringong, NSW. dovecote.com.au

The coastal palette isn’t just blues and whites –khaki and chocolate make an elegant aprésswim combination.

RESORT CHIC

Master seaside style with a crisp white bikini, understated jewellery and of-the-moment chunky sandals.

Style tip

On your marks

Scottish immigrant Alexander MacRae, a hosiery manufacturer in 1920s Sydney, noticed that attitudes to mixed bathing were relaxing and shifted his Fortitude underwear label to swimwear. He introduced a figure-hugging Racerback style in 1928 that went over the shoulders (thereby keeping the straps on). One of his employee coined the slogan “Speed on in your Speedos” for the launch and the legendary brand was born.

Marketing magic

In 1928, Swedish gold medal swimmer Arne Borg was tapped to promote Speedo swimwear, with his record-breaking performances at the Amsterdam Olympics fuelling sales. Aussie athletes followed, including Clare Dennis, who took gold in Los Angeles in 1932 (her swimmers, which exposed her shoulder blades, were considered controversial). But it wasn’t until 1936, at Berlin, that the Australian mens’ swim team debuted the then daring bare-chested men’s swimming shorts. The brand’s costumes went on to achieve international recognition in 1956 at the Melbourne Olympics when the entire Australian Speedosponsored team swept the board with eight gold medals.

Sluggos, AKA ….

Budgie smugglers, sluggos, lolly bags… whatever local slang you use for the brand’s tight-fitting trunks, their original design was the handiwork of artist Peter Travis. In 1960, he created a version of a Hawaiian swimming short that was popular at the time. They were hoicked above the hips

Speedo The iconic brand put Australian swimwear on the map – and raised eyebrows along the way.

and proved contentious, attracting the ire of Bondi Beach inspector Aub Laidlaw when men began wearing them in the summer of 1961. The furore sparked a shift in attitudes, pushing the boundaries of what was deemed to be acceptable beachwear.

And… wham!

The classic brief was designed with function in mind but the inadvertent sexiness of the figure-hugging trunks created some titillating moments over the years. George Michael, in Wham’s 1983 Club Tropicana video, wore white Speedos, a symbol of gay male fashion by the ’80s. And former Prime Minister Tony Abbott proudly donned his pair repeatedly, saying that if a club swim was on, “boardies were just a drag”.

A shark’s tale

Sluggos have been instrumental in the enduring success of Speedo but since 2000, male and female athletes have been wearing Speedo Fastskin suits. At the Beijing Olympics in 2008, US swimmer Michael Phelps wore the Fastskin LZR to nab his eight gold medals. Every year tweaks are made to improve the style’s flexibility and compression. Speedo turns 95 this year and with sustainability as a focus, its fabrics are being made from recycled materials such as polyester, plastic bottles and ocean waste, including disused fishing nets. Its aim is to be using 100 per cent eco-friendly fabric by 2030 (27,000 metres of unwanted fabric has already been saved from landfill). Not bad for a brand that started out making underwear.

Arts, science and business leaders on the books that inspired them

How a leap of faith fermented success for a zeroalcohol brewer

The career path of human rights advocate Elizabeth Broderick

WORDS OF

Fourteen leaders from business, the arts and science reflect on the most inspirational book they’ve read in the past year and how lessons they learnt informed their thinking.

The leader

Mark Scott Vice-chancellor and principal professor, The University of Sydney

The book

The Last Days of Roger Federer and Other Endings by Geoff Dyer

daily demands but to think about the contribution you want to make so what you’re building can endure.”

The leader

Kate Pounder CEO, Technology Council of Australia

The book

Compiled by Jane Nicholls

Why it resonated “Roger Federer is just one case study of many people who face the challenge of coming to the end of their career, their life or the contribution they can make. The author is in his 60s and reflects on how he wants to use the time he’s got left. As the aphorism goes, the days are long but the years are short. This is a real challenge for leaders – you can have days that are extraordinarily demanding and long and complex but when you get to the end of a year, a job or a career, you can’t believe how quickly the time has gone. Even when Roger Federer’s game may have been past its prime, his contribution seemed richer, more generous and more powerful –so there was this shared grief when his career was over. How to become that kind of person, that kind of leader? It’s about being deeply reflective about changing as you get older and how not to be tossed around by the incessant

Lead from the Outside: How to Build Your Future and Make Real Change by Stacey Abrams

Why it resonated “Most management advice isn’t written for people from a minority background so Stacey Abrams wrote her own. When you’re a person who isn’t the usual leader, how do you step up, find your place and become comfortable in that role? When I read it as a woman coming to lead in the tech industry, which still isn’t common, it made me reflect on how to do that graciously and make sure you’re inclusive. You have to think about your own hiring practices and how you design your organisation. The tech industry is fastgrowing, highly paid and has secure jobs so how do we make sure that opportunity is open to as many people as possible? It’s about working with the

WISDOM

people who are already in place. Adams has good advice on how to step up into that leadership moment, be respectful to the people who are there and make space for others.”

The leader

Ross McEwan

Group CEO and managing director, NAB

The book

A Short History of Russia: How to Understand the World’s Most Complex Nation by Mark Galeotti

Why it resonated “We need to be better at heeding the lessons of history. Conflicts have been happening for thousands of years and they happen over similar issues – and for similar reasons – yet we don’t learn or we haven’t learnt. The human costs are terrible, the economic costs are terrible and it takes years to recover, if you recover at all. Sometimes, what we learn from history will be a tough lesson, not a popular one. We can do better at dealing with tough realities. In 2023, I’ll look back before I look forward more regularly and I’ll encourage those around me to do the same.”

The leader Sue Kench Global chief executive, King & Wood Mallesons

The book

The Culture Map: Breaking Through the Invisible Boundaries of Global Business by Erin Meyer

Why it resonated “This book is just magic. If you work internationally, you need to know about the differences and how to build trust-based relationships across countries. Erin Meyer plots different relationships across spectrums and where particular countries fall in those spectrums. We’re all conditioned to see the world from our own culture’s perspective. This is about understanding the differences so that you don’t misunderstand cues. For instance, business relationships in China are very personal and about emotional connections; relations are built over time. In the West or in the United States, you’d describe them as more transactional. This book makes you stop and think about how you work across these cultures and not make assumptions about them.”

The leader Tim Fung

Founder and CEO, Airtasker

The book

The Inner Game of Tennis: The Classic Guide to the Mental Side of Peak Performance by W. Timothy Gallwey

Why it resonated “An interesting learning I’ve taken onboard this year is to default to curiosity over judgement. It can be easy to see something and react quickly to it, based on our own assumptions and perspective, rather than seeking to understand the situation and the perspectives of others. This can often lead to conflict or poor decision-making. This lesson is well-articulated in this quirky sports-coaching book that has turned into a business classic. Rather than react emotionally or be judgemental, the author encourages players to simply observe whether the ball goes in or out then be curious about how we can make the ball go in next time. There’s been so much change and conflict in the world this year. It feels like we could all be less reactive and pause, to try and understand the perspectives of others more.”

The leader Scientia Professor Veena Sahajwalla

Director, the Centre for Sustainable Materials Research and Technology at UNSW

The books

The writings of Mahatma Gandhi

Why they resonated “I was born in Mumbai and a lot of social injustices were there in front of my very eyes. We can never afford to forget that when it comes to sustainability, the social side of it is going to be extremely important. We’ve got the recognition of ESG but people still struggle with, ‘What does the ‘S’ mean? The social side of it?’ My inspiration is Mahatma Gandhi. From the early years of my childhood, his teachings have stuck with me. It’s about our responsibility to people on this planet – to all people on this planet. As a scientist and an engineer, there must be a clear objective for the environment and economic benefits to society and social benefits for disadvantaged communities, whether

it’s in India, Africa or right here at home in Australia. How do we make sure it’s going to be more than just talk? It’s not always economies of scale – it’s also economies of purpose.”

The leader

Nyadol Nyuon

Executive director, Sir Zelman Cowen Centre, Victoria University

The book

The Tyranny of Merit: What’s Become of the Common Good? by Michael

J. Sandel

Why it resonated “If the challenge of the 21st century so far – in the context of equality – has been about gender and race, the next challenge is about the tyranny of merit. We build societies around a very strict idea of merit. I’m now conscious of what I take to be an automatic measure of merit and I question who is being kept out by it. This was a personally challenging book because it was the same version of ‘success’ that I’d followed – and you inherently believe the system you follow is just and fair. It has taught me how much luck and grace and things we have no control over have a huge impact. It forces you to have a real sense of curiosity and also humility about what you have and how you interact with others.”

The leader

Jodie

Taylor

CEO, Supply Nation

The book

Ikigai: The Japanese Secret to a Long and Happy Life by Héctor García and Francesc Miralles

Why it resonated “Just before I went into the CEO role, I was looking to ground myself as I entered this next phase of my career and juggling being a sole parent to my 12-year-old son. I thought, ‘Let’s get back to basics.’ This book talks about mindfulness, living in the moment and finding your purpose – and stopping to reflect when everything is fast-paced. I found it so compelling. I want to lead my life to deliver value with purpose and impact. This is not a business book per se but when you have clarity, it influences how you lead others.”

The leader

Professor Raina MacIntyre

Head, Biosecurity Program, and professor of Global Biosecurity at the Kirby Institute, UNSW

The book

When Violence Is The Answer: Learning How to Do What it Takes When Your Life is at Stake by Tim Larkin

Why it resonated “It was given to me in 2017 by a friend, Tom Engells, a former police chief in Texas, who died in 2018. I only read it this year and it was lifechanging. It’s about self-defence and how to understand whether you’re facing is life-threatening asocial violence or social violence. Social violence is guys posturing and being aggro at the pub but it’s not life-threatening; asocial violence is when you’ve crossed paths with a psychopath who wants to harm or kill you. It shows that you can’t reason your way out of every situation. Larkin says it doesn’t matter how big and powerful your opponent is, every human body has vulnerabilities. He teaches self-defence techniques to target those vulnerable parts. I’ve given this book to a lot of people because it really opened my eyes.”

The leader

Lorraine Tarabay Philanthropist and chair, the Museum of Contemporary Art

The book

The Seventeen Traditions: Lessons from an American Childhood by Ralph Nader

Why it resonated “Nader has had five runs at the US presidency and founded more than 100 civic organisations, which have had an impact on tax reform, nuclear power regulation, the tobacco industry, clean air and water and food safety. He was instrumental in the creation of the Environmental Protection Agency. I was curious to work out what inspired him to dedicate his life to civic service. It brought home to me that the true meaning of participation in society is spending time improving it. Natural leaders are those who are inspired by a sense of justice and an eagerness to bring about change. The book’s only about 150 pages and I thought it would be interesting to read it with my children, who are 16 and 12. We read it aloud together, taking turns reading

chapters. It brought us back to the simple values of a time gone by and how we can bring them home in today’s world.”

The leader

Nick Hockley CEO, Cricket Australia

The book

My Life in Full: Work, Family and Our Future by Indra Nooyi

Why it resonated “I’ve been fortunate to meet Indra Nooyi in her capacity as an independent director of the International Cricket Council and am totally inspired by her journey from Chennai in India to CEO and chairperson of PepsiCo, one of the biggest companies in the world. Indra leads with the brutal reality that there is no substitute for hard work and she speaks honestly about the challenge of balancing your work with family. Professional sport can be all-absorbing with lots of travel and long hours. I’m very fortunate to have wonderful family support and Indra reminds us of the empathy and compassion needed to support people’s sacrifices in pursuit of high performance.”

The leader

Dr Cathy Foley

Australia’s Chief Scientist

The book

Misconceiving Merit: Paradoxes of Excellence and Devotion in Academic Science and Engineering by Mary Blair-Loy and Erin A. Cech

Why it resonated “We aren’t moving the dial on getting more women into STEM – they come into science but don’t stay and there’s evidence they have to work doubly hard to get the same recognition. The authors interviewed more than 500 STEM professors and revealed that the measures of a successful scientist don’t actually align with the evidence. They found that success is brilliance, assertiveness and self-promotion so there’s a strong personality aspect, as well as privilege and background. The last couple of pages ask, ‘What do you do about it?’ It says, ‘Outmoded, biased and constraining notions of who can be excellent scientists and what excellent science looks like are not just bad for individuals, STEM professionals or science – it’s bad for all of us.’ If we’ve got a false

construct supporting the wrong people, we’re not going to succeed as a human race. This was exciting because it gave me evidence and my job is to provide the best evidence.”

The leader

Andrew

Yates

CEO, KPMG Australia

The book

A Promised Land by Barack Obama

Why it resonated “You can have a lot of aspirations and ideas but you can’t determine the conditions that exist when you come into a role. The financial markets collapsed as Obama was in the final part of his first presidential campaign. He got elected and was confronted with the fact the economy had tanked. I’ve been at KPMG for 33 years and while I never envisaged I’d become CEO, I had a lot of hope for the organisation. I was appointed CEO in the middle of a COVID lockdown so my first day was a town hall with 6000 people, which I did from my kitchen. You have to create hope for people. Obama had to wrestle with the situation he found himself in and he always offered a vision for a better future. You’ve got to find a way to deal with the present, maintain the vision you have and find your way back to that once you’ve addressed the short-term issues.”

The leader

Professor Alan Duffy

Director, Space Technology and Industry Institute, Swinburne University of Technology

The book

The Power of Crisis by Ian Bremmer

Why it resonated “Bremmer makes it his business to better understand the world, evaluate risk and provide intelligence to governments and organisations. He argues that a crisis can lead to a better future if we embrace the challenge it sets us. It’s a lesson to not just respond in a knee-jerk fashion. COVID-19 was a horrifying pandemic and caused much suffering but it brought together scientists, policy experts and government leaders in a way I’d never seen. This year will bring us challenges but if we see them as an opportunity to drive innovation and dare to do new things, we can have a beneficial outcome. Don’t just panic to survive – pause and invest to thrive.”

Forging governance for good

The Australian Institute of Company Directors is tackling the big business issues at the country’s largest governance event.

“There’s a real buzz when you bring together 1500 leaders from across industries and sectors,” says Australian Institute of Company Directors (AICD) CEO Mark Rigotti ahead of the 2023 Australian Governance Summit on 1 to 2 March 2023 at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre.

The AICD is the largest institute for directors in the world, nudging 50,000 members across the economy, including private business, listed companies, charities, not-for-profit organisations and government enterprises. It runs hundreds of programs and courses that focus on providing managers, CEOs, directors and chairs with leadership and governance skills to drive positive change in their organisations.

The centrepiece of the AICD events calendar is the Australian Governance Summit, which features an impressive slate of prominent, successful business leaders who will be spearheading a series of talks. Speakers include Holly Kramer, director,

Woolworths; Simon McKeon, director, Rio Tinto; Rachael Falk, CEO, Cyber Security Cooperative Research Centre; Don Russell, chair, AustralianSuper; and Debra Hazelton, chair, AMP – with more to be announced.

The overarching theme of the summit is the opportunity of tomorrow. Speakers will address the most prevalent challenges and growth pathways currently facing leadership teams, such as the impact of artificial intelligence, algorithms and data, the risks and opportunities of climate change, the governance of sport, rethinking directors’ duties, delivering outcomes in the NFP sector, governing in an uncertain global environment and cyber security.

“Cyber security is front-of-mind for many boards,” says Rigotti. “Recent high-profile incidents have highlighted the importance of getting policies right for the protection of customers and stakeholders.”

Beyond the annual event, AICD members benefit from specialised and globally recognised courses and education programs for all levels

of directorship, as well as business centre and members lounge access in all Australian capital cities (with the exception of Darwin).

Yet it’s the community and connection that members find critical.

“There’s the formal part of the event that will help attendees have more informed board discussions,” says Rigotti. “But there’s also the informal part of the program; those conversations in the breaks, the introductions, which are invaluable. As a director myself, I‘m excited about making new connections and hearing the latest thinking on the big issues facing boards.”

Register your interest in the Australian Governance Summit now or become an AICD member at aicd.com.au

Michael Cheika

The former Wallabies coach doesn’t believe in mincing his words and says that passion counts for everything if you’re going to win at life.

CURRENT ROLES Head coach, Argentina national rugby union team and Lebanon national rugby league team; director of rugby, Green Rockets Tokatsu rugby union team, Japan TENURE 10 months, two years and 16 months, respectively

AGE 55 years

PREVIOUS ROLES Head coach, Wallabies, Waratahs, Leinster and Randwick rugby union teams; business manager, Collette Dinnigan

How do you define good leadership?

It’s about having a vision and then getting everyone clear on that direction. I’m a big believer in commitment – when you show you’re fully committed, that gets it all together.

Do you mean that you’re leading from the front?

Totally. There are times when actions are important and there are times when words are important. I like to give absolute clarity about what we’re doing and where we’re going. How can I use words to get people motivated? How can I tell stories to get people motivated? I need to show them that the end game or the vision is achievable because there may be people inside my team who don’t think it is.

When you’re the coach of a national team you’re under the microscope in a way that few of us experience. Is that a good or a bad thing?

It’s a good thing in that you’re able to get your message across to a lot more people when you’re in the middle of that heat. It comes with the territory of being a national coach so there’s no point in complaining. Sometimes it’s tough.

Ian Thorpe once told me that there’s an accountability in sport that’s different to business because you’re so exposed and you can’t blame sales or marketing. Do you agree with that assessment?

I don’t necessarily agree. At the end of the day, accountability starts with the person. Top CEOs have to be accountable to themselves before they even think about being accountable to a board or their people.

Next month, you’re launching an online leadership program called Purple Leader. What key lessons can business take from sport? Sport is about people. How do you put people in a position where they can improve quickly? That improves everyone’s performance. How do we perform under pressure? Teamwork is fundamental to making a huge business operate or to a team of 15 guys playing footy.

How do you manage the team dynamics on a day-to-day basis? They must be constantly changing.

I’m a person who trusts – you don’t have to earn it – but most people aren’t brought up that way. So what you’re trying to do is get people to trust each other. And understand everyone’s personal preference. Let’s say I’m giving a talk before a game and I want to be loud and energetic or even aggressive. Now, I know some people aren’t going to respond to that but I’ll have explained to them that getting a response out of the other people will help them get to where they want to go. Knowing people is not that simple inside a multinational corporation but just like I’ve got a small coaching team, others can broaden that out to their leadership team.

In your job you need to be very good at delivering frank, immediate feedback. Are there pros and cons to that?

Obviously the cons are emotional. It’s hard to tell someone something that’s not nice but this comes from how you build your relationships with people from the start. Once honesty becomes a true trait – and something people understand and expect from you – they’ll understand where the feedback is coming from, even though they may not like it.

In 2018, when the Wallabies were having a horror game against Argentina, you let rip at half-time. It worked because you went on to win that game but your method garnered a few headlines. How do you look back on it now?

I went down to the dressing room at half-time with a clear plan. I took my time getting there because it was a difficult situation but I wanted to try and provoke the team into a reaction. I believed they could come back from that deficit – if you’re going to try and deliver a message for an outcome that you’re not 100 per cent sure you can achieve then the message is already under the pump before you even get there… It’s about trying to respond to what you think your team needs at the time, as opposed to how you’re feeling. If I was acting how I felt I probably wouldn’t have gone down there, I was feeling that bad at half-time [laughs].

And how do you balance pushing people to do their best without pushing them over the edge?

You’ve always got to have a sense of what’s fair and what you think people can achieve. A lot of leading in coaching is about actualising people’s potential. But there’s always a foundation of preparation behind them – it’s about setting people up to succeed, not setting people up to fail.

How do you manage it when you’ve got a star performer who’s just not meeting your expectations?

The first thing is to understand why that person is not at that expectation, whether it’s mental, technical or physical. We try to understand the reasons and then cure it from the source.

You’ve had an incredible career but you’ve also been sacked, copped a suspended six-month ban and resigned as coach of the Wallabies. What have you learnt from those experiences?

The number one thing is to have belief in yourself and not compromise who you are. I feel like I’ve compromised on one or two occasions and both times they’ve finished badly. Sometimes you have to make decisions that are really, really important and you’ve got to make those decisions based on who you are. I love the song by Dr Dre, which says, “If you don’t stand for something, you fall for anything.”

You’re coaching the Lebanon rugby league team and the Argentina rugby union team and you’re director of the Green Rockets in Japan. What have you learnt about multitasking and are you good at it?

You just need to be organised. I either watch training at the ground or on a video. I was able to call a player from a training session I wasn’t at and talk to him about something I’d like to see in his play. The player knows, “Right, this guy is watching and he cares, even though he’s not here.” Time management is key, too. I never cross them over – I’m not thinking about one team when I’m doing something with another.

That takes a lot of discipline, doesn’t it?

Yes. We talked about Purple Leader. The reason we call it that is there’s a philosophy that there’s the blue state –calm and controlled – and the red – emotional – state. We’re all told we’ve got to go to the blue state to make clearer decisions. I actually need the two blended and that’s where the purple comes from. The passion you have for doing something is what gets you back up. Everyone calls it resilience but for me, it’s passion.

You’ve been pretty honest in the past about wanting to return to coach the Wallabies. How will you be different next time around? Well, when I said that I wasn’t doing what I’m doing now in Argentina. I love the experience here with these guys. It’s very different to coaching Australia and I’ve learnt a lot. So I’m getting that opportunity and doing things differently.

Like what?

The issues [at the Wallabies] didn’t really come from footy. It was more about the relationships with the CEO, the board and all those distractions that were taking place – all the things that happened more on the outside of the game, not the game itself. I needed to really keep those two things separate, no matter how much one tried to influence the other… but I wasn’t able to keep that separation well enough. I tried but I let some of the corporate side or the governance side or the administration side slip over into the footy side. You can’t do that. You’ve got to keep them totally separate – that’s the trick.

What’s the one piece of advice you’d give a brand-new CEO or new leader of a team?

Self-belief is really important, as is passion. And then just let people know who you are. I often feel like it’s almost a uniform – you go off to meet someone and they’re putting on a persona they think they need to put on because they’re the CEO of X or the CEO of Y. You can be who you are and you can show who you are.

IN THE INBOX SEAT

There was a time when email newsletters were written off as old-fashioned but EDMs (electronic direct mail) have bounced back onto marketing’s centre stage as one of the most powerful customer engagement tools at a company’s disposal. Last year, global email marketing company Litmus reported research showing an average $36 return for every $1 spent on email marketing.

At Designer Rugs, makers of luxurious floor candy, marketing manager Madeline Briggs says each EDM she sends out – one every fortnight to interior designers and commercial clients, another to residential customers – results in 10 to 15 sales leads. That’s people requesting a call back or coming into one of its showrooms in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. “For a high-value product like ours, that’s a great payoff.”

Hobart’s Farm Gate Market, a Sunday-morning cornucopia of vendors, has about 3000 subscribers to its e-newsletter. Proprietor and founder Madi Peattie, who runs Peattie Events, says that her topical weekly email bulletins are an opportunity to share producers’ stories. “This week’s EDM is about Endangered Distilling Co., which makes spirits from bread that would’ve been thrown out. You may not get that story when you pass a stall and see their product.”

The metric to chase with your EDM is the click-through rate (CTR), which measures not only whether the recipient has opened your email but whether they’ve clicked through on one or more calls to action, such as “Read more”, “Request a quote”, “Shop now” and “Contact us”.

Both Designer Rugs and Farm Gate Market use MailChimp, which is free at their level of usage, to create and distribute e-newsletters. Other platforms, such as HubSpot, Drip and Constant Contact, offer more features and services for a price.

Peattie has collected email addresses with pen and paper since Farm Gate Market started 13 years ago. “We also do posts on social media: ‘Have you signed up to our e-flyer? You’ll find out what’s in season each week and who’s going to be at the market.’ And there’s a link to sign up from our website.”

An engaging EDM can be a potent way to foster brand awareness and convert it to higher turnover.

What makes an effective EDM?

1 An enticing, concise subject line. To avoid the bin, EDM subject lines should clearly tout something your recipient wants. At Farm Gate Market in spring it might be “Daffodils now in season + Trophy doughnuts return.”

2 Content worth reading. Peattie lists the vendors attending that week so customers can plan their shopping lists and she also adds content. It might be a stallholder’s backstory or a chat on a particular theme, such as its aim to become Australia’s first plastic-free farmers’ market. Similarly, Designer Rugs introduces subscribers to its collaborators, like costume and set designer Catherine Martin. It also gives advice on styling rugs in the home, retail and corporate spaces and features case studies of custom-design projects, while softly selling.

3 Images that communicate your brand vibe. A few times a year, both Peattie Events and Designer Rugs hire professional photographers to take images for the companies’ e-newsletters, websites and social media.

4 Design that reflects your brand. Your EDM’s style should communicate your company’s values and aesthetic. The go-to for layout tips, inspiration and templates is Canva, a free online graphic design and publishing tool.

5 Community-building content. If your e-newsletter provides useful or “insider” information that makes the recipients feel they’re part of a defined community, it stands an even better chance of being well-received and generating revenue.

Set up for success

It’s a given that a good financial adviser can help you navigate the ever-changing world. But research shows the right advice makes a huge difference to your wellbeing, too.

When it comes to comprehensive financial advice, it’s not just about structuring your finances, improving your tax position and making smarter investments to generate long-term wealth. Working with an adviser also makes your day-to-day easier, helping with the smooth management of your cash flow and total balance sheet and keeping an eye on your arrangements as the world around you changes.

Industry research shows that financial advice is also good for your wellbeing. In a recent study*, nine out of 10 people agreed that their financial adviser is a critical partner in their financial success. Many also said that having someone they trust to focus on their finances helped them fulfil other personal goals.

It’s about future confidence and peace of mind, according to Shadforth Private Wealth. Setting long-term goals based on what you want your life to look like and having a partner on hand to keep you on track gives you time back to spend on what really matters.

Trust is the game changer

With almost 100 years of experience, Shadforth Private Wealth focuses on building relationships that last for

a lifetime. The team at Shadforth helps clients create personalised strategies to grow their wealth and keep them on track as their lifestyle, career, family and the economic environment shifts.

Having a financial adviser by your side will help you keep a level head and a clearer eye on the big picture. As recent years have demonstrated, life is unpredictable. You can, however, plan to better handle the unexpected when it happens.

Book your complimentary wealth discussion with Shadforth today. sfg.com.au/booking 1800 501 204

Upstart STORY BY JANE

NICHOLLS

HEAPS NORMAL

Cracking the low- and no-alcohol beer trend early on has these co-founders toasting their success, hangover-free.

Need to know

Founders

Andy Miller, 41, Peter Brennan, 42, Ben Holdstock, 38, (left to right, below) and Jordy Smith, 34 (not pictured)

Employees

25

First customer

P&V (NSW) and Blackhearts & Sparrows (Victoria), 2020

Headquarters Remote, with a new HQ in Marrickville, Sydney

Investors

Who Gives a Crap co-founder Simon Griffiths, Adore Beauty co-founder Kate Morris, Unified Music Group founder Jaddan Comerford, Tripple co-executive diretor Bec Milgrom and others

Market valuation

Raised just under $10 million since launching in mid-2020 and is stocked in more than 3000 venues and retailers around Australia

What’s it about? “We’re a dedicated non-alcoholic beer company. We started out trying to brew beer that tasted so good you wouldn’t notice the difference,” says Andy Miller, co-founder and CEO. The four founders wanted to help change Australia’s often problematic drinking culture, without “being preachy”, he says. “We wanted it to be fun, never telling anyone what they should or shouldn’t be doing. It’s come out of our own journeys with alcohol and the things that are more important than alcohol.”

Heaps Normal’s life-affirming slogan? “Too good to be wasted.” How did they get it off the ground? Miller and co-founders Peter Brennan and Ben Holdstock met working in the booming craft brewing scene. Holdstock is a brewer, while Miller and Brennan are in the marketing and branding corner. Pro-surfer Jordy Smith and Brennan were childhood mates and surfing buddies in South Africa. “Jordy got wind of what we were doing and said, ‘I’ve been off the alcohol trying to get an edge to win this world title. How can I be involved?’ He gave us a little cash to get us going.”

Biggest breakthrough? Making flavoursome zero-alcohol beer is no slam dunk. “Benny spent quite a bit of the 2020 lockdown brewing beers in his kitchen using very crude equipment but the beers turned out to be 1 per cent [alcohol] or a bit more,” says Miller. “He had to go back to square one to develop a new brewing process and recipe.” When they reckoned they were close, they took “a leap of faith and put down what to us was a lot of money” for Brick Lane, a brewing facility near Melbourne, to make zero-alcohol beer. The four loved it and shared the trial batch of 1200 cans among friends. “Nine out 10 said they thought it was a 3 to 4 per cent beer and they really liked it.”

Biggest challenge? “Trying to keep up with growth and the way that changes your business.” They turned down an early offer to supply a major retail customer because they wanted to be an independent business that supported other smaller concerns. But after 12 months, “non-alcoholic beer was everywhere and the category had exploded” so they felt comfortable expanding their outlets. “To support our mission of changing the drinking culture, we needed to make Heaps Normal available where people wanted to buy it but continue to support independent retailers. And we have a better relationship with the major channels now than if we’d dived in there straight off the bat.” What’s next? Heaps Normal will join Sydney’s beer precinct in Marrickville early this year. “We want to show that non-alcoholic beer can be a legitimate part of that community and be in the mix with some of our favourite craft brewers,” says Miller. R&D operations and takeaway, plus a bar and food, are on track to start from their new headquarters. And given that live music is a passion for the founders, “an inclusive and accessible space for local artists and entrepreneurs” will follow mid-year.

heapsnormal.com.au

PHO TOGRAPHY BY NIKKI TO

Career Path

INTERVIEW BY JANE NICHOLLS

ELIZABETH BRODERICK

This lawyer has tackled some of our thorniest issues – from gender discrimination to human-rights violations – with intellect and heart.

Focus on your long-term impact

2017-present

Special rapporteur (independent expert) and member of the Working Group on discrimination against women and girls, United Nations Human Rights Council

“We go on country visits to look at the status of women and girls, and make recommendations to that country as to how to lift the status. We write to the heads of nation states, drawing to their attention human-rights violations, such as in Afghanistan and Iran. We’re a group of five rapporteurs and we have to be comfortable that any action we take may not have the outcome we want. When we started to see problematic laws in the United States about women’s reproductive rights, we wrote to the Trump administration to draw their attention to the regression. Not only did we not get the response we would have liked, we believe he somehow used it in his re-election campaign. You have to assess impact in a different way. I now ask myself, ‘Do I believe in the value, the truth and the rightness of the work that I’m doing in this moment?’ Without that framing, you could get so discouraged. It makes you become braver – you need a lot of courage to call out human-rights violations, knowing the power of nation states. Self-care is also important, as is having hope. Not blind hope – intentional hope. And looking for goodness in the world. If you show up and refuse to leave, you will find so much that’s good. Movements for change will only ever be as strong as every one of us who makes up that movement.”

PHO TOGRAPHY BY TIM BAUER

Understand the true issues

2015present

Principal, Elizabeth Broderick & Co

“We do a lot of cultural-change work and have a fantastic, diverse team. We work with boards, members of executive teams and management, helping them understand the importance of listening and getting proximate to the issues they’re trying to solve. I tell boards that when they’re onsite for a meeting or a visit, they need to get out in the organisation and ask people about it. Similarly, management teams need to be listening and not arriving as the boss or the manager but rather arriving as one human being who wants to listen deeply to another while suspending judgment. This increases capability and performance for an organisation and delivers to the bottom line. If you care about your business, you care about infusing humanity back into it.”

Change takes time

2007-2015

Australian sex discrimination commissioner, Australian Human Rights Commission

“I had all these ideas about how change happened. I thought that I would just open up my contact list, reach out to all the amazing women across Australia who I knew and together we’d drive change. I realised that it was much more complex than that. I started to learn about the importance of operating on multiple levels, from the individual level to the system level. A country can have strong laws but strong laws aren’t enough. Those laws need to be understood and effectively implemented all across the country. I learnt that there’s no one thing you can do to create change in a nation. It happens through thousands of people who care – the relentless pursuit of ordinary people never giving up. Change happens one small step at a time.”

Prioritise people over data

2011-2015

Commissioner responsible for cultural change collaboration, Australian Defence Force

2011-2013

Chair, Review into the Treatment of Women in the Australian Defence Force

Big shifts come from the top

2011present Founder and convener, Champions of Change Coalition

“Leaders have so much data coming across their desks every single day – you have to present them with a human story. I was able to bring those who were the most powerful in the Australian Defence Force face-to-face with the most vulnerable. I was with the then chief of Army, sitting uncomfortably in his chair, and this beautiful young woman – one of the stars of the recruit school – came with her mother to tell her story of sexual assault, of having the courage to speak out and having her career trashed as a result. At the end, the mother looked the chief of Army in the eyes and said, ‘I gave you the person I love most in the world and this is how you’ve treated her.’ I think it forced him to stare into some really uncomfortable truths. When you bring the personal front-and-centre to leaders, even the most conservative organisations can transform.”

“If we want to redistribute power, we need to work with those who hold power and 12 years ago, that was largely men. It still is but it is shifting. We needed powerful, decent men stepping up. Not to advocate for women or to rescue them but to stand up beside women as equal partners in change. I’m a pragmatist. I don’t care why you come to the agenda. Champions of Change is an internal journey for men because change starts with each of us. We can ask those people over there to change but our family won’t change, our organisation won’t change, our country won’t change until we change first. When powerful leaders change or shift, their organisations shift and the nation shifts. It’s not about fixing the entire world all at once; it’s fixing the part of the world that’s within our reach.”

Concentrate on what you can control

1988-2007

Partner, Blake Dawson (now Ashurst)

“I was there at the time of the dotcom boom and went into an internet incubator. We worked out that a billable hour is a perishable good, a bit like a hamburger or a hotel room: if you don’t sell it today, it has zero value tomorrow. It was the beginning of my change-management journey. I learnt that being 10 years ahead of the game in innovation can be as bad as being 10 years behind. We learnt that we should fail fast, fail cheap and take the learnings to help us into the future. A number of web services from that time are in full fruition today but we were probably 10 to 20 years ahead. I learned that most disruptive technologies don’t perform well at the beginning but over time they quickly gather speed so you need to keep an eye on them. But for immediate revenue-generating purposes, they’re often nowhere near as profitable as your existing service.”

Listening is a critical skill

Circa 1966

Tea server and conversation maker in her parents’ medical practice

“My dad was a nuclear medicine specialist and my mother was a physio and ran the practices. From the age of four or five, my twin sister, younger sister and I worked in the surgery, making cups of tea for patients. From that, I learnt the ability to sit with people in periods of suffering, although I would never have called it that back then. My dad was using nuclear medicine to detect things like brain tumours and lung cancer. Our job was to make small talk with the patients, bring them tea and see if they needed anything. We were little kids – what a privilege to be with people in that moment and none of them telling us to go away. It shows you the generosity of people. Now I’m out across the world, listening to the stories of human suffering… the ability to sit and listen is at the core of everything.”

Dr Laurie Santos’s “happiness class” is the most popular in Yale University’s 321 years – and more than 4 million people have downloaded its online version. For her own happiness, the psychology professor and podcaster relies not on instincts but science.

06:00

The moment the alarm goes off, I crack open my phone and do a sleepy scroll through Google News.

07:15

In some meta-analyses, a half-hour of cardio exercise can be as good for reducing symptoms of depression as taking an antidepressant. But I’m not the kind of person who’s naturally motivated to exercise. So I treat myself to watching Buffy the Vampire Slayer during 45 minutes on the elliptical machine. If there’s time for yoga, I use [online platform] glo.com. Many things that I know bring happiness are hard to create time for. It’s why I exercise early – you need to fit these things in first.

08:30

I add protein powder to a chocolate blueberry banana spinach smoothie and head upstairs to my office. If you do the same things every morning you end up doing the good habits more naturally. I try to eat without engaging with media but don’t always succeed.

09:00

Being addicted to email is something I’m working on to improve my wellbeing. In truth, on the elliptical, when Buffy gets a little boring, I pull out my phone.

On Twitter I follow Jay Van Bavel, a professor at NYU who studies political polarisation, and Jennifer Richeson, my Yale colleague who studies how people experience racial diversity. News can be anxiety-provoking so I don’t have news notifications. Embarrassingly, I get a lot of my news from Twitter.

09:55

Frantically print notes. Run downstairs to my podcast closet.

10:00

I’m now in this slightly creepy closet with my recording equipment and a bunch of mattresses and cushions behind the green screen. I interview Stanford psychology professor Jamil Zaki for my podcast, The Happiness Lab

MICHAEL

His advice is spot on. The way to make sure our teams are as happy as they can be is to engage with empathy –for other people and also for ourselves. Sometimes we can’t fix other people’s problems. That resonated with me.

11:15

Switch gears to my work as head of college. I live on the campus, in a mansion in the middle of a quad, and I sprint across it to check in with my administrative assistant and operations manager. It’s the first time we’ve run graduation since COVID began so we’re out of practice. Did we get the frames for the student prizes? Are we all set for where the microphone’s going?

12:00

I eat lunch of leftover black beans and tortilla and avocado alone at a 12-person dining table under a chandelier with crystal spirals. Then I walk up Hillhouse Avenue, which Mark Twain called the most beautiful street in America – it’s filled with old elm trees and university buildings – to teach my happiness class.

13:00

One of the themes of my class, Psychology and the Good Life, is that many of our intuitions about happiness are wrong. We think it’s about money, achievement and accolades – my type-A Ivy League students especially think this – but the evidence suggests it’s really about simple behaviours: doing kind things for others, having a mindset of gratitude. Advice that I give my students but sometimes struggle with myself is

the importance of social connection –talking to strangers on the street, trying to connect with people. Doing podcast interviews has made me better at that.

14:30

I’m just tired. The college students don’t realise how exhausting teaching can be. Resting for me is checking email in my office. So far I’ve been sprinting from meeting to meeting, not being as present as I could be. The class is a good reminder to get back to basics in my daily life, too. There’s an idea that we want to push ourselves hard but evidence suggests we should be more self-compassionate.

18:00

Dinner with a candidate for a job. It’s fun because my faculty colleagues are also my close friends and it’s on the patio of one of our favourite New Haven restaurants, Harvest, where we get this delicious truffle Brussels sprout salad. It’s probably terrifying for the candidates but they’ve done their interviews and this is a moment where, at least in theory, they can relax a little. We chat about science and nerd out about ideas.

20:00

One of my faculty colleagues, Arielle Baskin-Sommers, lives in New York so she often stays over. We usually grab a drink, maybe do yoga. Tonight, we go back to the mansion, put on our beat-up, cosy pyjamas and sit in the huge foyer on the oriental rug to have some rosé and gossip.

Life lessons

Before studying the science of happiness, Dr Laurie Santos researched animal cognition; in 2016, she travelled to Victoria to test how dingoes think. But when she started living with students as head of Silliman College at Yale, she was struck by the high levels of mental health dysfunction on campus. “I was seeing depression, anxiety, suicidality. This is an international problem among college students.” So in 2018 she began teaching her Psychology and the Good Life class, which offers datadriven solutions to improving happiness, and more than 1000 students signed up. Her podcast, The Happiness Lab, has been downloaded more than 70 million times.

I’ve seen the data and I know that if I want to be happier – develop better mindsets

and behave and feel better – I have to do different things.

21:30

I’m taking those pyjamas upstairs to my bedroom. That’s a sacred time, to reconnect with my husband [Yale philosophy lecturer Mark Maxwell]. Even though he goes to bed later, we chat about our day and read. I’m reading Susan Cain’s book Bittersweet, which is about how we don’t like emotions like grief and melancholy but they do have positive aspects. She starts with an account of a concert cellist who, in the midst of the civil war in Sarajevo, put on his shirt and tails, brought a chair outside and started playing a sad, sad song that reverberated through the streets. It’s so powerful to think that in all this awfulness, we can do things that have a moment of meaning. Isn’t that such a wonderful expression of the human condition?

22:00

By 10pm, I’ve fallen asleep and my husband has taken the book out of my hand, shut off the light and that’s it.

Business Passport

Travel brings the Australian String Quartet closer to its fans and is helping create new opportunities for the classics – from Rome to Australia’s most remote reaches.

When the curtain fell on live performances in early 2020, the Australian String Quartet (ASQ) knew it needed to adapt to keep the music alive. So the Adelaide-based not-for-profit created an on-demand platform to connect with audiences all over the world. “We’re creating a 21st-century string quartet,” says ASQ chief executive Angelina Zucco. “It’s a traditional art form but we’re taking it into the future.”

Technology has grown ASQ’s fan base but live shows mean the most to the ensemble’s current line-up: Dale Barltrop (violin), Francesca Hiew (violin), Christopher Cartlidge (viola) and Michael Dahlenburg (cello). The ASQ team has clocked up 100 shows and about 300 flights in 2022 alone. “It’s been a joy to be able to play in communities again and see our partners and

supporters in person,” says Zucco. “There’s something about the magic of live performance; the exchange that happens between people.”

Here, Zucco shares how travel has unlocked dream gigs and powerful partnerships.

Where: Adelaide Darwin

“This trip to Darwin in July was our first in a decade so it was important for us to be able to reconnect with the community and meet with local artists. We held an intimate concert at an iconic local venue near the waterfront. It sold out within two days. Chamber music is about playing in small rooms with a good acoustic, where

people like to gather. It might be a beautiful concert hall or a country pub. Imagine hearing 18th-century instruments played by four of the world’s best musicians at your local bowling club; it’s a visceral experience up close. When we travel, we always fly Qantas – they understand the needs of musicians. The cello has its own seat and the instruments need to go in the overhead lockers because they’re so precious. Qantas Business Rewards enables us to earn more Qantas Points to use for flights, hotels and car hire. That gives us back the budget to invest in other things. We aren’t able to offer the same kind of perks that corporates can so being able to accumulate our own Qantas Points and Status Credits when we travel for work, while earning points for the business, is another great benefit.”

Photographed by Lean Timms at A by Adina, Canberra (abyadina.com)

(From left) Dale Barltrop, Francesca Hiew, Michael Dahlenburg, Angelina Zucco and Christopher Cartlidge

ITALY

Where: Adelaide Italy

“The Australian Embassy in Rome invited us to participate in a residency program in the charming city of L’Aquila, Abruzzo, in late 2018. The region had suffered a devastating earthquake and needed a lift. The town had been gifted a beautiful temporary concert hall – the Auditorium del Parco by architect Renzo Piano – and it was so special. We also held masterclasses at the local university. Most people had never heard new Australian music and that trip really shone a light on our unique Australian composers. We’re now exploring the next exciting opportunities for this international collaboration. We’re keeping an eye on the new Qantas Perth-to-Rome direct flight. I recently flew direct from Perth to London to scout future venues and it was fantastic. Being able to return to Perth and continue engagements there, before travelling home to South Australia, makes a lot of sense.”

Where: Adelaide Sydney

Where: Adelaide Regional NSW

“This trip to the drought-stricken town of Oxley in NSW back in 2018 was one of the most memorable in my 12 years with the ASQ. All the community turned out for our performance in a woolshed. Some shearers had driven for hours; they had beers from their utes and afterwards the locals put on a sausage sizzle. It was really emotional, very Australian. It means a lot to us to reach beyond the big cities. Qantas’s regional flight network helps us get around – one day we’ll be at the Chamber Music Festival in Coffs Harbour, the next we’ll be out west in Kalgoorlie. The Qantas Business Rewards dashboard makes it easy to book and manage travel for our whole team in a way that ensures maximum points and flight savings. It saves a lot of time.”

“We flew up for a performance on our national tour and invited the team from Sydney Dance Company (SDC) to come along. We were all backstage with SDC artistic director Rafael Bonachela and composer Bryce Dessner’s management when we formalised our plans for a co-commission, which would become the award-winning album, Disintegration/ Impermanence, and later, the soundtrack to SDC’s Impermanence. Securing a rockstar composer like Bryce isn’t normally something we could do on our own, but in collaboration with the SDC, doors opened. These kinds of face-toface conversations when we’re touring open up new artistic possibilities. After the world premiere in Sydney, we had a sell-out season performing live with SDC at the 2021 Adelaide Festival. In 2022, we toured the show nationally and are excited to take it abroad in the future. When we’re touring, the Qantas Lounge is our home away from home. We gather our thoughts in the lounge; the quartet mentally prepares for the next gig and I prepare for the six or seven meetings I’m going to squeeze in while we’re there.”

Let your business fly

“The Qantas lounges are a workplace oasis,” says Zucco. “You’re on the road, you don’t have an office, you need a space to meet... and I’m usually looking for espresso. We generally work on the edge of chaos in the arts. But once I’ve got that espresso, everything’s going to be alright.”

Are you and your team missing out on Qantas Club benefits?

Save up to 30% on Qantas Club membership for you and your team

As a Qantas Business Rewards member, you and your travellers are eligible for up to 30% discount when you join or renew your Qantas Club membership.^ So you can relax, meet or work before your business flight.

Enjoy access to Australia’s largest lounge network

As a Qantas Club member, you and a guest will be welcomed in Qantas Club, Qantas International Business Lounges, partner airline and associated airline lounges. With over 650 Qantas and partner lounges worldwide and Australia’s largest lounge network, you can look forward to a more comfortable pre-flight experience. Enjoy extra checked baggage allowance

As a Qantas Club member, take advantage of extra checked baggage allowances when travelling in Economy or Premium Economy on most Qantas flights.^^

Call 13 74 78 to join or renew your Qantas Club membership using your Qantas Business Rewards discount.

T&Cs apply.* To find out more and to join, visit qantas.com/businesspassport

On board

Premiere movies, hit TV shows and absorbing audiobooks

Movies

There’s something for everyone in this selection of new films.

See How They Run

A murder mystery set in the London theatre world of the 1950s – the stage of Agatha Christie’s Mousetrap, to be precise – this comedy was created by two Brits, writer Mark Chappell and director Tom George, which is funny (but not in a haha way) because See How They Run resembles one of the Coen brothers’ darkly comic greats, Fargo. That’s largely due to the cavalcade of quirky suspects and characters – including Constable Stalker, played with hilarious gusto by Saorise Ronan, who is the perfect foil for Sam Rockwell’s deadpan Inspector Stoppard (both pictured above). Rating M

The Woman King

The idea of an all-female army battling it out against enemies of the state and European colonists might look, at first blush, like the result of an earnest female filmmaker’s imagination transformed to the big screen; a person who wanted a counterpoint to the likes of Braveheart or Gladiator for women of colour.

But the Dahomey Mino (“our mothers”), also known as Agojie or Amazons to gobsmacked white invaders, were a real historical military unit in West Africa under the command of King Ghezo (played by John Boyega in the film) from the 1600s to the end of the 1800s.

In The Woman King, General Nanisca (played by a majestic Viola Davis, above, who won an Academy Award for the film Fences and exerts the same poise

here) leads the army as they liberate numerous Dahomean women who were abducted and tortured by soldiers from the Oyo Empire. But when the Oyo join forces with Portuguese slave-traders, the Agojie have a bigger fight on their hands.

The battle scenes are compelling but it’s the underlying themes of family, legacy and the devastation wrought on women by the slave trade that resonates.

Co-starring Thuso Mbedu, who turned in a stunning performance as Cora in The Underground Railroad, and directed by Gina Prince-Bythewood from a story co-written by Dana Stevens (the screenwriter on 1998’s City of Angels) and Maria Bello (who starred in A History of Violence), the movie is as gripping – and empowering – as any superhero franchise. Rated M

Lyle, Lyle, Crocodile

In the tradition of Paddington Bear and Stuart Little comes another wholesome tale of humanised-animal-brings-familyhealing. This one, based on a children’s book is, you guessed it, about Lyle the crocodile (voiced by Gen Z heartbreaker Shawn Mendes), who turns up in the attic of Josh Primm, a lonely boy played by Winslow Fegley. This all-singing, all-dancing reptile shares the screen with co-stars Constance Wu (above) and Scoot McNairy (True Detective) as Josh’s parents, plus Javier Bardem as Lyle’s long-lost trainer. Rated PG

by Natalie Reilly

Words

Amsterdam

Director David O. Russell, lauded for 2010’s The Fighter and 2013’s American Hustle, reunites with actors Christian Bale and Robert De Niro in this darkly comedic feature. It’s about three friends who meet during World War I – a nurse (Margot Robbie), a doctor (Bale) and a lawyer (John David Washington, all pictured right) – and live together in Amsterdam. Some 15 years later, all three are caught up in the murder of an American senator. Based loosely on a 1933 political conspiracy involving the removal of President Franklin D. Roosevelt and the installation of a dictator (later found to be a hoax), Amsterdam is a sprawling, tumbling wild-goose chase that frequently skirts on absurdism. Fortunately, the raft of awardwinning actors, including Rami Malek (Bohemian Rhapsody) and Anya Taylor-Joy (The Queen’s Gambit), along with musician Taylor Swift – who turns in an impressive performance – are able to handle its razoredged twists and turns. Rated MA15+

Don’t Worry Darling

A rebuke not only of 1950s patriarchy and Cold War paranoia but the Hollywood machine itself, director Olivia Wilde’s film is a shimmering homage to The Truman Show and The Stepford Wives – a sun-dappled fever dream full of popping champagne corks and house parties, with nothing to fear but what’s outside the immaculate Californian gated community of Victory. Starring Florence Pugh as Alice Chambers, who is madly in love with her husband, Jack (played by Harry Styles, left, with Pugh), and her close-knit pals, all of them married and serenely content… until Alice investigates why she lives the way she does. Written by Katie Silberman, who penned Wilde’s directorial debut, Booksmart, Don’t Worry Darling co-stars Gemma Chan, Wilde and Chris Pine, who steals the show as a benevolent svengali type who radiates cool charm and terrifying authority. Rated M

Television

Whatever your mood, there’s a show to match.

Maid

A study in trauma and income immobility, Maid tells the story of a young single mother (Margaret Qualley, below) trying to find work as a cleaner. It’d be utterly depressing if not for the skills of Qualley (Once Upon a Time in Hollywood ) and her real-life mother, Andie MacDowell, who plays her flaky screen mum. Rated MA15+

Am I Being Unreasonable?

This six-part series, made for the BBC, is part relatable mum stuff, part black comedy and part psychological thriller. To say any more would give it away. Starring Daisy May Cooper, Seline Hizli (both below) and Lenny Rush. Rated M

It was season two of Breaking Bad when defence lawyer Saul Goodman first sauntered into the lives of drug-makers Walter White and Jesse Pinkman. Originally slated to stay for only a few episodes, comic actor Bob Odenkirk (above) proved so charismatic as a shifty attorney, he not only stayed on but gained his own spin-off, Better Call Saul The rest is history – stacked with Emmy awards. Now that all six seasons are available to watch, you can see how the flim-flam man once known as Jimmy McGill gained an array of colourful clients at his criminal-friendly New Mexico practice. Rated MA15+

Tulsa King

Created by Taylor Sheridan (Yellowstone), Tulsa King stars Sylvester Stallone (left, with Domenick Lombardozzi) as a former Mob boss who just got out of jail. It hits all the right notes of the organised-crime genre we know and love. Rated MA15+

Los Espookys

Saturday Night Live star Fred Armisen plays Tico, one of a group of friends (including Ana Fabrega and Julio Torres, below) who attempt to turn their love of creating horror film-like scenarios into a successful business. Rated M

Better Call Saul

Tune into these compelling stories.

Allegra in Three Parts

Young Allegra is surrounded by people who love her –grandmothers Joy and Matilde and father Rick – yet these same people don’t love each other. They all live in their own worlds, divided from each other by a tragedy that refuses to remain silently in the past. In her award-winning comingof-age debut novel set in 1970s Australia, writer Suzanne Daniel makes the conflicted Allegra the lens through which her splintered family is viewed.

Charlie and the Karaoke Cockroaches

The latest hilarious chapter of the adventures of young Charlie and his best friend, Hils, from Australian comic Alan Brough, begins with an interrupted story. Then a mysterious box that speaks and sings. Add unusually unusual teachers, incredible lurking from the Lurker, an insect orchestra and a bungling burglar and it’s up to Charlie and Hils to save three innocent bugs from the forces of evil. Suitable for kids aged seven to 12.

The Secret Runners of New York

The end of the world is rumoured to be nigh and when Skye Rogers and her twin brother, Red, arrive in Manhattan, she’s asked to join the Secret Runners of New York, a covert society with access to a time portal into the future. What she discovers is frightening. This thriller, from bestselling Australian novelist Matthew Reilly, takes you on a race against (and through) time to change the future before it’s too late.

News

Enjoy unlimited access to theaustralian.com.au, afr.com.au and themonthly.com.au when you are connected to Qantas Wi-Fi onboard and in Qantas lounges.

Connect to Qantas

Free Wi-Fi and Entertainment App

Once onboard, connect your own device to Qantas Free Wi-Fi on domestic flights in three simple steps to access the internet and Qantas Entertainment App.

STEP 1 Enable Aeroplane Mode and select the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network in your Wi-Fi settings.

STEP 2

Follow the prompts on the “Welcome Onboard” screen to connect.

STEP 3

Once you’re connected, you’re now ready to access the internet and the Qantas Entertainment App.

Having trouble connecting?

Make sure you are connected to the “Qantas Free Wi-Fi” network and go to wifi.qantas.com in your preferred browser to start exploring. Inflight entertainment varies by route and aircraft. Voice calls are not permitted inflight.

Inflight workout

These exercises are designed to provide a safe way to stretch and enjoy movement in certain muscle groups that can become stiff as a result of long periods of sitting. They may be effective at increasing the body’s blood circulation and massaging the muscles. We recommend you do these exercises for three or four minutes every hour and occasionally leave your seat to walk down the aisles. Each exercise should be done with minimal disturbance to other passengers. None of these exercises should be performed if they cause pain or cannot be done with ease.

01

Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upwards as high as you can.

Ankle circles

Lift feet. Draw a circle with toes, moving one foot clockwise and the other counterclockwise at the same time. Reverse circles. Rotate in each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Knee lifts Lift leg with knee bent while contracting your thigh muscle. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30 times for each leg.

Neck roll

With shoulders relaxed, drop your ear to your shoulder and gently roll your neck forward and back, holding each position for about five seconds. Repeat five times.

Knee to chest Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around the knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

In the air

Mobile phones and electronic equipment: All transmitting electronic devices, including mobile phones, tablets and laptop computers, must be switched to flight mode* prior to departure. Smaller devices such as mobile phones, e-readers, electronic games, MP3 players, iPads and other small tablets may be held in your hands or stowed in a seat pocket. Unless otherwise directed by the captain, these devices may remain switched on and used in flight mode during take-off, cruise and landing. Larger electronic equipment such as laptop computers may only be used from when the aircraft seatbelt sign is extinguished after take-off until the top of descent. After landing, the cabin crew will advise when flight mode may be switched off.

Headsets: Do not use a personal single-pin audio headset in the Qantas inflight entertainment system unless it is supported by a two-pin airline headset adaptor. Personal headsets that connect via a cable

to a handheld device can be used at any time from boarding until arrival. Headsets and other devices that connect via Bluetooth must be switched off for take-off and landing but can be used during cruise.

*Flight mode enables you to operate basic functions of your mobile phone or personal electronic device while its transmitting function is switched off, meaning you cannot make phone calls or send an SMS.

Fly Well

Your wellbeing is our priority. Our Fly Well program brings together a number of measures to give you peace of mind during your flight.

Cabin air: Our aircraft air conditioning systems are fitted with hospital-grade HEPA filters, which remove 99.9% of all particles including viruses. The air inside the cabin is refreshed every few minutes, ensuring the highest possible air quality.

02

Put both feet flat on the floor. Lift heels high, keeping the balls of the feet on the floor.

03

Repeat these three stages in a continuous motion and at 30-second intervals.

Forward flex

With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Shoulder roll Hunch shoulders forwards then upwards, backwards and downwards in a gentle circular motion.

Inflight: The aircraft configuration, including the seats and galley, act as a natural barrier, and people are not seated face to face. The direction of inflight airflow is ceiling to floor.

Enhanced cleaning: Our aircraft are cleaned with a disinfectant effective against coronaviruses, with a focus on the high contact areas of seats, seatbelts, overhead lockers, air vents and toilets. Our people are trained in the latest hygiene protocols.

Face masks: Some destinations require you to wear a mask during your flight or at the airport. Ensure you check the latest government requirements before you travel. Your face mask needs to cover your mouth and nose, fit securely and must be worn unless you’re under 12 years of age or have a medical exemption.

Your inflight health: When flying, passengers can be seated and inactive for long periods of time. The environment can be low in humidity and the

Foot pumps (foot motion is in three stages)

cabin pressure equivalent to an altitude of 2440 metres above sea level. The following advice helps you stay healthy during your journey.

The importance of inflight blood circulation and muscle relaxation: When walking, the leg muscle action helps return venous blood to the heart. Sitting in the same position for a long period of time can slow this process and, in some people, leads to swelling in the feet. Some studies have shown that immobility associated with travel of longer than four hours (by air, car or rail) can also lead to an increased risk of deep vein thrombosis (DVT), or clotting in the legs. Personal factors that increase the risk of DVT include: Age over 40 years

Personal or family history of DVT or pulmonary embolus

Recent surgery or injury, especially to the lower limbs, pelvis or abdomen

Cancer

Inherited or other blood disorders leading to clotting tendency

Pregnancy

Oestrogen therapy (oral contraceptive pill or hormone replacement therapy).

There are a number of ways to help reduce the possibility of DVT, including the following:

Avoid leg-crossing while seated

Ensure adequate hydration

Minimise alcohol and caffeine intake before and during your flight

Wear comfortable, loose-fitting clothes

During your flight, move your legs and feet for three to four minutes per hour while seated and move about the cabin occasionally Do the light exercises we recommend here (see above) and through the inflight entertainment system.

If you have concerns about your health and flying, or you feel that you may be at risk of DVT, Qantas recommends that you talk to your doctor before travelling. Additional measures such as well-fitted compression stockings or anti-clotting medication may be recommended for high-risk individuals.

Jet lag: Unlike other forms of transport, air travel allows for rapid movement across many time zones, which can disrupt the body’s biological clock. This is commonly known as jet lag. This disruption can affect various body rhythms such as the sleepwake cycle and the digestive system, leading to symptoms such as tiredness and lack of energy and appetite. In general, the more time zones crossed, the more disruption of the body clock and the more symptoms experienced after the journey. We recommend the following to minimise the effects of jet lag.

Before your flight:

Get a good night’s rest

During your flight:

Eat light meals

Wear loose, comfortable clothing and sleep when you can

Stay hydrated – drink plenty of water and avoid excess tea, coffee and alcohol

At your destination:

If possible, give yourself a day or two after arrival to adjust to the new time zone

Go out in the daylight and do some light exercise

Try to eat meals and do other social activities at appropriate destination times to adjust to the new time zone

Cabin humidity and hydration: Humidity levels of less than 25 per cent are common in the cabin, as the outside air that supplies the cabin is very dry. The low humidity can cause drying of the surfaces of the nose, throat and eyes and it can irritate contact lenses. If normal fluid intake is maintained during the flight, dehydration will not occur.

We recommend:

Drink water and juices frequently during the flight

Drink coffee, tea and alcohol in moderation

Remove contact lenses and wear glasses if your eyes are irritated

Use a skin moisturiser to refresh the skin

Cabin pressurisation: During flight, aircraft cabin pressure is maintained to a sufficient density for your comfort and health. As the aircraft climbs, the cabin may reach the same air pressure as at an elevation of 2440 metres above sea level. Cabin pressure does not pose a problem for most passengers. However, if you suffer from obstructive pulmonary diseases, anaemias or certain cardiovascular conditions, you could experience discomfort at these altitudes. These passengers should seek medical advice before flying, as some may require supplementary oxygen. Qantas can arrange this but requires at least seven days’ notice before travelling. The rate of change in cabin pressure during climb and descent is also carefully maintained and does not usually cause discomfort. However, children and infants, and adults who have sinus or nasal congestion, may experience some discomfort because of pressure changes during climb and particularly descent. Those suffering from nasal or sinus congestion because of a cold or allergies may need to delay travel. The following advice may assist:

To “clear” your ears, try swallowing, yawning or pinching your nose closed and gently blowing against it. These actions help open the Eustachian tubes, equalising pressure between the middle ear chamber and throat. If flying with an infant, feed or give your baby a dummy during descent. Sucking and swallowing help equalise pressure in an infant’s ears. Give children something to drink or chew during descent.

Consider using medication such as nasal sprays, decongestants and antihistamines 30 minutes prior to descent to help open up your ear and sinus passages.

Motion sickness: Air travel, especially if turbulence is experienced, can cause motion sickness, as it leads to a conflict between the body’s sense of vision and its sense of equilibrium. Maintaining good visual cues (keeping your eyes fixed on a non-moving object) helps prevent motion sickness. When the weather is clear, you should look out at the ground, sea or horizon. If the horizon can’t be seen, closing your eyes and keeping your head movements to a minimum will help. While over-thecounter medications are available, we recommend

you consult your doctor about the appropriate medications. More information can be found: At qantas.com.au/info/flying/intheair/ yourhealthinflight

Through the onboard entertainment system On our information leaflet available from Qantas or your travel agent

Smoking: Government regulations prohibit smoking on all flights operated by Australian-registered aircraft. The use and charging of all e-cigarettes and other personal vaporisers are not permitted on board an aircraft. There are smoke detectors in all toilets and penalties for regulation breaches.

Travelling with children: Please ask cabin crew for help if required. Baby food and nappies (diapers) are available on most flights, while some washrooms are fitted with baby change tables. Please dispose of nappies etc. in the waste bins.

When you land

Leaving flights: On international flights, the cabin crew will distribute the necessary Customs and Immigration forms. If you are stopping en route, you will need your boarding pass to re-board the aircraft. If you’re travelling as a domestic passenger on an international flight within Australia, retain your boarding card with the large D sticker. This will be required to clear Customs at your destination.

Transferring from Australian domestic flights numbered QF400 and above to international flights: At check-in you will be issued with your international boarding pass. Your international boarding pass and baggage will be tagged through to your final destination. There is no need to claim your baggage or attend check-in at the transfer airport. Follow the signs for international transfers passengers to the complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne and Darwin).

Transferring from international to domestic flights numbered QF400 and above: On arrival at your Australian transfer port, go through Immigration and collect your luggage. Proceed through Customs and follow the signs to the domestic transfer area to re-check your luggage. A complimentary transfer bus (not necessary in Melbourne, Adelaide and Darwin) departs at regular intervals for the domestic terminal for your connecting Qantas flight within Australia. If your connecting domestic flight is numbered QF1-QF399, there is no need to clear Customs and Immigration. These flights depart from the international terminals. Customs and Immigration clearance will be completed at your final destination.

Transferring to a Jetstar domestic flight: If your next flight is with Jetstar (JQ) or a Qantas codeshare flight operated by Jetstar (QF5400-QF5999), you will need to collect your baggage and follow the signs to the Jetstar counter to check in for your flight and re-check your baggage.

What you need to know about your onboard security, safety and health

Qantas security policy

The Qantas Group has a strict policy of denying boarding, or offloading any passenger who makes inappropriate comments or behaves inappropriately inflight or on the ground. Qantas will not accept any inappropriate comments as “jokes”. It will also seek to recover all costs incurred, including diversions as a result of security incidents, from those involved.

Group-wide security

Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation. The Qantas Group ensures that its passengers, staff and aircraft are safe and secure through an outcome-focused, risk-based approach to security management. Qantas security standards apply across the business, including QantasLink and Jetstar.

A dedicated operations centre monitors global security events 24 hours a day.

Security advice

Pack your own luggage

Do not carry any items for another person

Carry valuables, approved medication and keys in your carry-on baggage

All knives, sharp objects or cutting implements must be in checked baggage

Security measures can include random frisk search after consent is obtained. Passengers may request privacy and must be searched by a screener of the same gender

Important note: Security screening is subject to the laws and regulations of the country of operation.

Restrictions on powders and liquids, aerosols and gels (LAGs)

On all international flights to and from Australia: Each container of LAGs in your carry-on baggage must be 100ml or less

All 100ml containers must be placed in a single transparent one-litre plastic bag

Plastic bags containing LAGs are to be screened separately from other carry-on baggage

All powders must be screened separately with restrictions on the carriage of inorganic powders over 350ml (350g)

Passengers may still carry prescription medicines or baby products sufficient for the flight

If departing, transiting or transferring on an international flight at an Australian

international gateway airport, duty-free powders and LAGs must be sealed, with receipt, in a security tamper-evident bag issued at the time of purchase

Full-body scanners

The Australian federal government has introduced full-body scanners at international gateway airports: Sydney, Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Darwin, Perth, Melbourne and the Gold Coast

The Australian Federal Government has commenced introducing full-body scanners at major domestic airports: Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, Canberra, Darwin, Gold Coast, Hobart, Launceston, Melbourne, Newcastle, Perth, Sunshine Coast, Sydney and Townsville

At international gateway airports passengers refusing to pass through the scanner will be banned from entering the sterile area or boarding an aircraft for 24 hours

Exemptions apply for people with serious medical conditions, infants and small children, and people in wheelchairs

As per advice, the energy exposure is comparable to that from a mobile phone several metres away

There are no known safety concerns for people with pacemakers and metal implants or for pregnant women

Dangerous goods

Common items used every day may seem harmless but on an aircraft they may become dangerous. When the aircraft changes altitude, variations in temperature and pressure may cause items to leak, create fumes or catch fire.

Items that are forbidden on aircraft or have carriage restrictions include lithium batteries, other battery types, camping stoves, fuels, oils, compressed gases, aerosols, household cleaners, matches, lighters, paints, explosives (including flares, fireworks, sparklers and bonbons), emergency position-indicating radio beacons, radioactive material, biological and infectious substances and fuel-powered equipment. This list is not exhaustive so please carefully consider what items you pack for your next flight.

If you’re unsure about an item in your baggage, ask a member of our friendly cabin crew.

For further information, go to qantas.com or email dg@qantas.com.au.

Travel advice

Qantas is a partner in the Australian government’s Charter for Safe Travel. Travellers may obtain the latest travel advice for their destination by visiting smartraveller.gov.au.

Automated immigration clearance

Several countries are introducing automated immigration clearance procedures to cope with growing air-travel numbers. The goal is to provide a faster, smoother immigration experience to eligible passengers without compromising border security. Please note that some automated clearance options may not be available due to COVID. Countries providing facilities across our network:

Australia SmartGate: e-passport holders of Australia, Canada, China, France, Hong Kong, Ireland, Japan, Korea, Macau, New Zealand, Singapore, Sweden, Switzerland, UK and US

China e-Channel: citizens of China

Hong Kong e-Channel Residents: citizens and residents of Hong Kong

Hong Kong e-Channel Visitors: frequent visitors that are visa-exempt, including Australians

Indonesia Autogate passport gates: citizens of Indonesia

Japan Speedy Immigration: citizens and foreign nationals with re-entry and special re-entry permits

New Zealand SmartGate Plus: e-passport holders of Australia, New Zealand, UK and US

Singapore enhanced-Immigration Automated Clearance System (eIACS): citizens, permanent residents, work permit holders and APEC cardholders

UAE eGate: UAE citizens and residents

UK ePassport gates: e-passport holders of UK, Switzerland and European Economic Area (EEA)

USA Global Entry system: US citizens and permanent residents, Dutch citizens, South Korean citizens and Mexican nationals. Canadian citizens and residents with NEXUS membership

USA Automated Passport Control: for US, Canadian and Visa Waiver Program passport holders

Fee applies

Pre-enrolment required

Quick clues

Across

10. Obstructions (10)

11. Remembrance sprig (8)

13. Sports final (12)

14. The Pilgrim’s Progress writer, John ... (6)

16. Seasoned (11)

18. Portrays (character) (4,3)

20. Torturers (7)

22. Subsidiary rivers (11)

23. Songs (8)

26. Sugar grains (8)

30. Decided and fixed (3-3-5)

31. Fell suddenly (7)

34. Without oxygen (7)

35. Beheads (11)

36. Eventually (2,4)

38. Group of sharps or flats (3,9)

41. Trapeze artists (8)

42. Deserted infants (10)

Down

01. Becomes denser (8)

02. Still unexploited (8)

03. Enfold (4)

04. Reveals (8)

05. Victimise (9)

06. Fallen tree (3)

07. Bill of fare (4)

08. Legendary horsewoman (4,6)

09. Puts into trance (10)

12. Scorn (7)

15. Leopard relative (6)

17. Home (9)

19. Convey (9)

21. Fearful respect (3)

Automatic (10) 24. Nobel Prize-winning category (10)

25. First-born (6) 27. Nautical shelter (3)

28. Unmarried people (7)

29. Access (9)

31. Assiduous (8)

32. Antarctic birds (8) 33. Distribute (8)

37. Unruly crowds (4)

Confederate (4)

Automatic teller (1,1,1)

Cryptic clues

Across

10. They get in the way of making hands nicer (10)

11. Herb puts me back in a series of prayers (8)

13. Top player’s joint contest (12)

14. Author quoted as having a sore big toe (6)

16. Felt like a veteran (11)

18. Performs role of unfortunate outcast (4,3)

20. I am found in miserable streets by those happy to inflict pain (7)

22. Smaller branches of flowers (11)

23. Some idle characters write tunes (8)

26. Watch faces made by comedian Billy and start smiling (8)

30. What the hairdresser did, leaving no room for argument (3-3-5)

31. Went into decline when ditched (7)

34. Put on fewer programs that are stuffy (7)

35. Will heads roll if office workers use them? (11)

36. On the beat soon enough (2,4)

38. Most important autograph for musicians to read (3,9)

41. They’ll be seen taking a tumble during performance (8)

42. Abandoned Children Fund losing out (10)

Down

01. What sauce does when heated in new kitchens (8)

02. Without plumbing, but potentially valuable (8)

03. Put an end to shooting (4)

04. Lifts the lid on extremely uncooperative drivers (8)

05. Cleverly rescue pet from torment (9)

06. Diary of comparatively deep sleeper (3)

07. List of possible orders (4)

08. Bare-back rider? (4,6)

09. Talks others into going under (10)

12. Contempt shown when Sid returns to top half of Daintree (7)

15. Spotted American in fancy car (6)

17. Dire scene played out in dwelling (9)

19. How to get around or across harbour (9)

21. Article you and I dread (3)

23. Michael can appear to be machine-like (10)

24. Printed information makes litter a chore, I’m told (10)

25. The one in the family most likely to succeed (6)

27. Take Bruce to be on the safe side (3)

28. Tennis match for those without a partner (7)

29. Confession given on entry (9)

31. Conscientious chap from East Timor (8)

32. Kings and emperors seen in colonies (8)

33. Hand out pens inside mess (8)

37. The Mafia’s gangs (4)

39. Really not about being a friend in adversity (4)

40. At the moment primarily a convenient source of cash (1,1,1)

Tough puzzle, simple rules: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the numbers 1-9.

Wheel of words

Create as many words of four letters or more as you can using the given letters once only but always including the central letter. Don’t use proper nouns or plurals ending with “s”. See if you can find the nine-letter word using all letters.

Match-ups –Proverbial wisdom

Work out all the words needed to complete these sayings and cross them off where you find them in the grid. The leftover letters will spell out one more proverb.

A MAN WILL CLUTCH AT A STRAW A FOOL AND HIS ARE SOON PARTED

A FRIEND IN NEED IS A FRIEND

A LEOPARD CANNOT ITS

HAS HIS DAY HANDSOME IS AS HANDSOME HE WHO BY THE SWORD DIES BY THE SWORD NOTHING , NOTHING GAINED IS BETTER THAN CURE IS GOLDEN STRIKE WHILE THE IS HOT THE IS IN THE DETAIL THE PEN IS THAN THE SWORD TO ERR IS HUMAN, TO DIVINE TOO MANY SPOIL THE BROTH TWO ARE BETTER THAN ONE WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS, MAKE WHERE THERE’S A THERE’S A WAY

Quiz

By Hazel Flynn

Spot the difference

Can you spot the seven differences between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.

01. How many months of the year have 31 days?

02. What “fourth type of chocolate” was released in 2017?

03. What is the Vietnamese name for Lunar New Year?

04. What is the more common term for the human body’s “thoracic basket”?

05. Who wrote the book Coraline and The Sandman comics?

06. Which is farther, Melbourne to Darwin or Melbourne to Antarctica (Casey Station)?

07. To within 5 per cent, how much of the earth’s surface is covered by ocean?

08. And approximately how much of the world’s water is in our oceans?

09. Chuck D and Flavor Flav co-founded what influential hip-hop group?

10. The shell substance nacre is also known by what three-word term?

11 What Australian world squash champion lost just two matches between 1960 and 1979?

12 What 1980 horror movie is set in the Overlook Hotel?

13. What does a pluviometer measure?

14 Turnips, kale and watercress are part of what plant family?

15. Who is the youngest Nobel laureate?

16 Of acrylic, polyester and viscose (rayon), which is not a petrochemical?

17 What are the three suits in mahjong?

18 Better Call Saul is a spin-off from which TV drama?

19 What British writer first used the term “cold war”?

20. What Sydney-based tech company’s NASDAQ code is “TEAM”?

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Solutions

If you’ve filled in the answers, please take the magazine with you so the cabin crew know to replace it with a new copy.

Wheel of words

Cere, Cure, Ecru, Erne, Fern, Free, Reef, Rune, Enure, Fence, Ferny, Queen, Queer, Quern, Query, Fencer, Unfree.

Nine-letter word: FREQUENCY.

Spot the difference

01. Man in white shirt has no bag

02. Writing removed from second blind

03. Tree added to balcony

04. Window removed from building

05. Umbrella colour changed

06. Extra “N” added to truck sign

07. Concrete filler added to pavement

Crossword

Match-ups

A drowning man will clutch at a straw. A fool and his money are soon parted. A friend in need is a friend indeed. A leopard cannot change its spots. A picture is worth a thousand words. A rolling stone gathers no moss. A stitch in time saves nine. All roads lead to Rome. All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. An army marches on its stomach. As you sow so shall you reap. Ask a silly question and you’ll get a silly answer. Be careful what you wish for. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Birds of a feather flock together. Cut your coat to suit your cloth. Distance lends enchantment to the view. Easy come, easy go. Empty vessels make the most noise. Every dog has his day. Handsome is as handsome does. He who lives by the sword dies by the sword. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Prevention is better than cure. Silence is golden. Strike while the iron is hot. The devil is in the detail. The pen is mightier than the sword. To err is human, to forgive divine. Too many cooks spoil the broth. Two heads are better than one. When life gives you lemons, make lemonade. Where there’s a will there’s a way. Solution: All’s well that ends well.

Quiz

01. Seven 02. Ruby chocolate 03. Tet (Tet Nguyên Đán) 04. The rib cage 05. Neil Gaiman 06. Melbourne to Antarctica (3861 kilometres versus 3124 kilometres) 07. 71 per cent 08. 97 per cent 09. Public Enemy 10. Mother-of-pearl 11. Heather McKay 12. The Shining 13. Rain 14. Brassica 15. Malala Yousafzai (aged 17) 16. Viscose (made from wood pulp) 17. Bamboos, Characters and Dots 18. Breaking Bad 19. George Orwell 20. Atlassian