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Wedding Season Extreme Hair Wars 2018 Trends
I S S U E 18 News
Supporting Hairdressings Future
Take on the Tan
VIN + OMI X
Rainbow Room Awards
London Fashion Week
Epibrow Hello Henna
Extreme Hair Wars
Editor’s Comment What a start it has been to 2018! With the whole country coming to a standstill due to the weather, we hope you’re all getting back on track and getting customers into your salon. The Best of British Hairdressing and Barbering education day was
top names in the industry as to what you should expect and what
affected but we’re looking forward to bringing you that later in the
you should be offering your clients – not to mention some amazing
Event season is ramping up and it was great to see such a vibrant
Were you watching Extreme Hair Wars? It’s been the talk of salons
crowd at Pro Hair Live in Manchester and HJ Live in London. The
up and down the country as renowned hairdressers Martyn Holmes
strength of brands on display was matched only by the creativity and
and Robert Masciave brought their unique brand of avant garde
ingenuity of the hair and beauty professionals performing on stage
stylings to the small screen so we were delighted to speak to them
over the weekend.
about its success.
This issue sees us go full steam into everything wedding related ahead of the summer rush. There’s tips and advice from some of the
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That’s just the tip of the iceberg, with loads more content for you to enjoy so please sit back, relax, and soak up the knowledge.
PAUSA GENDERLESS Collection Hair: Bernat Sayol @ Salones Carlos Valiente Styling: Visori Fashionart Make-up: Jessi Esparza Photographer: Esteban Roca
Credits Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Graphic Designer Ross Stewart | Graphic Designer Cara Scott Design & Marketing PrintNV | LWPR, Cocoroco PR, Essence PR, AJC PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, Fellowship For British Hairdressing, BarberSociety Live, Fudge Professional, Indola, SESH, ChooseHair.com, Fake Bake, Rainbow Room International, Martyn Holmes, Robert Masciave, Channel 5, Dr Nestor, Jason Collier, Peter Mellon, Epibrow, FAB Hair, Josie Smith, Emil McMahon, Takara Belmont | Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ Email email@example.com Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Cover Image: Hairdresser: Christophe Pujol Photographer: Audrey Bieber Makeup: Laura Bosq Styling: Ezra Iriha Jewellery: Julie Eulalie Copyright All work in this publication is copyright SalonNV Magazine and Gallas Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. ÂŠ Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.
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I N D U S T R Y NEWS DENMAN ANNOUNCES PAUL STAFFORD AS GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR British company Denman has announced the appointment of British Hairdressing Hall of Fame member Paul Stafford as Global Creative Director. The move brings Paul, who has been using Denman for more than 30 years, into the heart of the long-established, family led company. Paul will lead its creative contribution to the industry, supporting Denman’s education efforts including mentorship of 2017 Denman’s Stage Star competition winner, Sam Carpenter. As Global Creative Director, Paul will
also lead the soon-to-be-launched global ambassador programme, The Denman Global Collective, which features established and emerging stylists from across the globe. Paul’s appointment coincides with Denman’s 80th anniversary and in March Paul will travel to the US to represent Denman as an educator at the IBS Show in New York City, delivering his inaugural IBS seminar on The Craft of Precision Cutting. Paul will then represent Denman at Cosmoprof Bologna for the formal launch of the Denman Global Collective. On his return, he will create and shoot a new Denman collection with long-time collaborator Lee Mitchell. “I treasure the support Denman has given me over the years so am delighted to officially represent the company at an international level,” said Paul.
COLOUR TROPHY COLLABORATION Sarah Black, Colour Expert at Linton & Mac, and national winner of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award 2017, will be guest spotting at KyCut Wilson’s collaborative space ‘The Social London’, throughout 2018. The award-winning stylist will be travelling from Aberdeen to London for two days a month to offer her colour skills and expertise to fashion-forward Londoners. The collaboration was conceptualised at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy winners’ shoot in Paris, where Sarah and Ky worked together to recreate their winning looks, shot by photographer Jack Eames. The duo hit it off and began discussing ways that they could join forces, showcasing that brands can connect to the benefit of both. Sarah will begin offering her services at The Social London from 1-2 March 2018, with new dates added throughout the year.
REBECCA JUDIC JOINS HIGH DEFINITION
of England over her 11 years of service at the professional hair care brand. Her drive and passion for the salon environment Experienced sales professional, Rebecca was rewarded in 2011 when she moved Judic, has joined beauty brand High into a new business acquisition role, it Definition as National Trade Sales was during this time she secured some Manager. of the company’s most prestigious key Rebecca brings to the brand a great deal accounts and guest artists. Rebecca’s ultimate role was Key Account Executive of experience from the salon commerce, Manager for the North West, where she starting her career in beauty as a Territory maintained many of the relationships she’d Sales Manager for luxury hair care brand Wella. Rebecca quickly became a dedicated engendered throughout the years, all the while supporting her existing clients for member of the team, progressing her career within various locations in the North guaranteed success.
ISSIE CHURCHER JOINS ALTER EGO Alter Ego Italy has announced the appointment of award-winning colourist Issie Churcher as its UK Colour Ambassador. The former British Colour Technician of the Year has carved out a name for herself as one of the most sought-after colour specialists in the UK, using her skills as a session colourist, educator and salon technician. Beginning her career in her home city of Glasgow, Issie has gone on a colour journey, starting out as a technician for Sassoon, jetting around the world presenting shows and seminars as part of the Sassoon creative team. It was Issie’s
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love of education that brought her to the renowned HOB Salons and Academy, where she led the colour department as creative colour director. Issie is now working as colour director at the award-winning Brooks and Brooks salon in London. Regularly in demand for shows, shoots and events on an international level, her fashion-forward approach to colour and undeniable technical skill has quickly established her in this competitive industry. Commenting on her new role with Alter Ego Italy, Issie said: “I can’t wait to start representing Alter Ego Italy in the UK. Colour is my passion and the Alter Ego Italy products give me incredible freedom to express my creativity, as well as deliver on-trend colour looks for clients.”
NOVALASH APPOINTS AMBASSADOR TEAM NovaLash has announced its 2018 team of Brand Ambassadors with three of them being based in Scotland: Zoe Kinnear, Andrea McQuade, and Evonne McMillan. These lash artists as well as Sarah-Anne Barham (Felixstone), make up the new UK team of Brand Ambassadors. Commenting on being part of the NovaLash team, Andrea McQuade said: “I have been working with Novalash products for 7 years and am so proud to represent a brand I love. Without NovaLash my lash extension services would not be such a huge success. The fact that the adhesive is oil proof and waterproof is a big selling point for me, and my clients love this about their lashes.” NovaLash Brand Ambassadors work as an elite team and the face of the company. They are heavily respected in the eyelash industry - their elite skills, dynamic personality and strong work ethic are what separate them from the crowd. The new ambassadors will be on hand to support the brand’s growth through their online presence, trade shows as well as being available as industry experts for interviews and quotes.
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2018 with the Fellowship 2018 has well and truly began with a bang for the Fellowship of British Hairdressing. With the four, shiny new Fellowship teams already loving their journey and the calendar of events for the year sparkling with innovation and fresh ideas, it’s shaping up to be a fantastic year.
Dream Teams January was a month of introduction for all the new team members, as they came together for their first day with their mentors to get to know one another and hear all about what is in store. The F.A.M.E. Team came together in the inspiring surroundings of Anthony and Pat Mascolo’s Library Space on Battersea Park Road in London. Their mentor Nick Irwin shared the news that the team will be following in the footsteps of 2017’s foursome, and heading across the world to Australia for Hair Expo with BaByliss PRO. They were also lucky enough to be gifted any stylists dream – a huge bundle of BaByliss PRO products and tools to help them with their creations throughout the year and beyond.
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This year’s Colour Project and Project X teams kicked off their year with an introductory session and a presentation skills workshop - Colour Project at the RUSH Academy and Project X at the ghd Academy, in London. Simon Shaw from Simon Shaw Education and Edward Hemmings from Alan d Education were both on hand to deliver the teams their first dose of education with plenty of presentation skills tips. It broke the ice, built the team’s confidence and got them all equipped with a few essential tips and techniques on the perfect presentation, putting them in good stead for all of the exciting opportunities coming their way this year. The ClubStar Art Team’s first get-together of 2018 took place at the Alan d Academy in London. They met with their mentor Simon
Tuckwell who spent the day getting to know them and helping them to bond as a team, talking them through his own journey with the Fellowship, that began as a ClubStar
member. Simon has some incredible mentors lined up ready to give up their time to pass on their industry knowledge to these eight young hairdressers, including presentation skills with Debbie G and a photoshoot with Hooker & Young.
Head to the Fellowship’s website for information on tickets! www.fellowshiphair.com @fellowshiphair
The Fellowship Presents: Hair & Vision The Fellowship’s famous Masterclasses are undergoing a transformation and are about to become bigger and better than ever before. Make way for a whole host of all-new Fellowship’s ‘Hair & Vision’ events up and down the country in 2018 – kicking off with a bang in London on March 19th, headlined by none other than Angelo Seminara. Hair & Vision promises to deliver all the elements of the masterclasses that we love, but with an injection of extra inspiration and even more of an insight into the famous names on the bill. These sessions have always been about contemporary hairdressing visionaries presenting their best work to the industry in a more relaxed and intimate setting, inviting the audience to get up-close-and-personal with their hairdressing heroes. At Hair & Vision, expect all this and more – more interviews, more artists and more creativity.
London’s dose of Hair & Vision will be coming to Sway, located in the heart of Holborn, on Monday 19 March with a sparkling constellation of masters on the evening’s line-up: Angelo Seminara Akin Konizi (HOB Salons) Alan Findlay (Rebel Rebel) Anne Veck (Anne Veck Salons) Johnny Shanahan (Barber Barber) Jordanna Cobella (Cobella) Junior Green (Junior Green) Luke Benson (Luke Benson Hair) Paul Jamieson (Mahogany) Sam Burnett & Jamie Benny (Hare & Bone) Sean Dawson (Electric) Skyler McDonald (Sean Hanna) Tina Farey (RUSH)
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BIGGER. BETTER. BarberSociety Live. If we had one complaint about BarberSociety Live last
Taking place in one of the most stunning exhibition
year it was that hairdressers and stylists couldn’t get
centres in the country, a former gasworks factory
involved. Fortunately, the organisers have listened to
which has a beautiful industrial charm, it’s bound to
our concerns and BarberSociety Live is now a two-day
inspire and inform, and with the second day welcoming
event! Rejoice! That means twice the laughs, twice the
those from outside the industry, a chance to connect with more people than before.
learning, and twice the barber love. Now you are able to come soak up the
Last year’s line-up saw headline slots
wealth of knowledge and education on
from the likes of the B.O.M.B. Squad
offer as barbers from across Europe, and
and Sid Sottung, with 2018 promising to
beyond, gathered in Amsterdam to swap
be even better. We’ll be there to take it
stories, chew the fat, and embrace the
all in and hope as many SalonNV readers
barbering brotherhood. If you’re looking
as possible make the trip – with flights to
to get into the barbering industry or pick up some tips
Amsterdam often cheaper than a taxi home for a night
and tricks to help you with your male clientele, you
out, and many reasonably priced hotels on offer, why
couldn’t ask for a better event than this.
Back in April.
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rs e s s e r Haird me! o c l e w
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BarberSociety Live. Keune
Marc van de Hare Marc van de Hare, founder of BarberSociety and owner of Van de Hare Amsterdam barbers:
Eelco Keune, marketing director of Keune:
“We are really looking forward to the 2018 edition in which everyone will enjoy a unique day and barbers from all over the world will be united. I am so grateful that this year even more visitors can enjoy the world of barbering/men’s hair styling thanks to the addition of a second day. Only with the enormous support of our sponsors can we realise this.
organiser) organised an event especially for barbers
“I think it is fantastic that Marc and Miranda (coand men’s hairdressers. The industry really lacked such a vibrant meeting of like-minded professionals that feel so passionately about their craftsmanship. That’s why we supported them from the very first edition of BarberSociety Live (without our name being mentioned, a unique situation).
“We would like to thank American Crew and Wahl, our loyal sponsors from the very first edition in 2016. Without their support, there would not be a BarberSociety Live event. But what nobody knows is the fact that also Keune has been one of our anonymous sponsors from the beginning! This year we can announce them as our XXL sponsor for the first time out in the open now that they are launching their men’s grooming line, 1922 by J.M. Keune at BarberSociety Live. A line of excellent men’s haircare and grooming products with a magnificent scent, which you can experience for yourself at BSL 2018. “Keune also supports our BSL People’s Choice BarberShop Award for Dutch and Belgian barbers. The second time that we bring this award in cooperation with the Dutch and Belgian review platform ‘WieWatHem’”
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“In the meantime, we can now launch our men’s hair care and grooming line, 1922 by J.M. Keune, with pride at this great event. 1922 is an homage to my grandfather (founder of Keune and a barber in 1922!). This completes the circle, because my grandfather and the grandfather of Marc were each other’s neighbours on the canals of Amsterdam with their businesses (respectively a pharmacy and a barber). Coincidence does not exist!”
VISIT US ON
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Distilled for Men In 1922, Jan Keune, a young Amsterdam chemist took his dream and turned it into a hair care brand. Now his sons and grandsons have bottled his courageous spirit for brave and daring men everywhere.
search: keuneuk keune.uk.com
VIN + OMI x My. Haircare LO N D O N
upporting luxury British fashion brand VIN + OMI at London Fashion Week in February was hair company My. Haircare who were chosen for their award-winning approach to hair colouring. Known for delivering vegan colour pigment minus the toxic silicones and parabens, My. Haircare was the perfect companion as VIN + OMI launched a new wave of eco textiles using organic UK materials and a new range of soft synthetic wool and textiles produced from salvaged plastic from ocean and river clean-up operations. The looks for the catwalks were all created by My. Haircareâ€™s Creative Director, Denis Kovalyov. Denis created the looks by using natural hair extensions and applied Infuse My. Colour Wash to them (dry). The coloured shampoos were mixed to make greens and other colours such as intense pinks and rose gold effects. The extensions were then taped into the hair styles of the models for the runway show. Check how the looks were put together and the finished articlesâ€Ś
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FA S H I O N
W E E K
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It takes time, but your average barbershop haircut has probably filtered through from the world of high fashion. At London Men’s Fashion Week there were plenty of cuts that could make it to be shop staples, and plenty that probably won’t… We took a look at a few of the shows to see what hair offerings were on show.
CH R IS TOP HE R RAE B U RN Fu d ge Pr o f e s s i o nal British design Christopher Raeburn takes the strength of his military silhouettes, combining this with the beauty and fragility of our oceans. AW18 sees a tidal shift as camouflage gives way for luxurious wool pieces re-appropriated from Russian naval blankets. Tina Outen for Fudge Professional brings this abstract to completion. Giving models the aesthetic of a diver fresh out of the blue, with ponytails that have seen better days, baby hair, and fly-away strands draped over the models’ face.
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LIA M HOD GE S EVE R Y BODY ’ S FRE E Fu d g e Pr o f e s s i o nal London based designer Liam Hodges’ collection’s been described as a luxury brand for the mad and bad alike, and AW18 is no different. Vivid colours, oversized fits and bold prints encapsulate Hodges’ creative vision. Think post-punk madness fused with Mr Blobby. Tina Outen from Fudge Professional perfectly captures Hodges’ references to childhood innocence, with models sporting David Byrne inspired style thrown into a gunge tank - bringing back a nostalgic reminder of 90s kids programs like SMTV and Nickelodeon.
CHA RLE S J EFFREY Revl o n Touted as one of London fashion’s brightest, Charles Jeffrey takes a reflective look back at his native Scotland with this latest collection. Melding Wallace tartan with the LOVERBOY’s own, Jeffrey seamlessly combines the traditional with the contemporary. Revlon’s John Vial went for 70s inspired Sigue Sigue Sputnik swirling hair wrapped in hairnets. Bright neon colours deliberately complimenting the colours and abstract shape of the collection.
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Man Up Your Salon The new season styles suggest 2018 could be a prosperous time for hairdressers when it comes to getting male customers through the door. Longer styles and more complicated looks are coming into fashion, ones that may test the limits of many barbers’ skills and make men head for the salon. The award-winning teams from Linton & Mac, SJ Forbes, and Blue Tit give us their verdict on what to expect in the salon this spring/summer. Thankfully both agree that the curtains look pulled off so masterfully by Sam Wall on the latest issue of our sister magazine BarberNV is bang on trend. Natasha McIntyre, Senior Stylist at Linton & Mac.
I’M WITH THE BAND If last season was all about the boy-bands of the nineties, spring/summer ’18 is all about iconic eighties’ bands. At E. Tautz, Wham inspired the heavy chopped fringes and shaggy cuts, while the brief backstage at Topman Design was to create the appearance of young men, during the eighties, who’d spent the entire night in a nightclub. The end result was more than just a nod to Spandau Ballet, with plenty of features reminiscent of the New Romantic era. To recreate this look, use a wet-look gum or gel, through roots and lengths of damp hair, during blow-drying. Once hair is dry use more of the product to create that ‘saturated’ effect and to hold fringe-like pieces in place. Hair should look wet – as if it has been partied in all night- with pieces sculpted in place on the forehead.
GO WITH THE FLOW If you’ve been growing your hair for a few seasons then now’s the time to show it off: long locks, that are below-shoulder length, were worn down and flowing, at many of the new season shows. With very few ponytails and man buns in sight, now is the time to embrace longer locks, wearing them in all their flowing glory, emphasising their natural texture and boosting volume and movement. At N-P-Elliott models wore hair past the shoulders, in single-length nippleskimming styles that embraced natural kinks. Don’t confuse this look with feminine styles – it’s a very masculine Tarzan-esque look that manages to look raw and rugged. Vivienne Westwood’s styles looked slightly more feminine: think shoulder-length cuts, which had been given a loose wave with big-barrelled tongs. It’s a look that had a distinct seventies vibe. Male model Oliver Sonne, the face of Loewe’s most recent campaign, is nailing this look right now. The Danish model wears his shoulder-skimming locks down loose, very slightly kinked, and beautifully glossy. It’s a look that has fairly feminine, almost childlike qualities, but yet still manages to look sexy and almost macho. I predict plenty of copycat looks over the next few months.
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BANG BANG! Curtain Bangs, as seen at Fendi A/W17 were last season’s biggest style story and it seems the Nick Carter-style centre-parted fringe is going nowhere anytime soon, with Fen Chen Wang’s SS18 show keeping this nineties revival very much alive. It’s all about making sure that centreparting is perfectly central and neat, so use a fine-toothed comb to nail the look. If wearing your hair flopping all over your face isn’t doable for day-to-day life, tuck hair behind the ears and just opt for the centre-parting instead. And if this grungy nineties look is too grimy for the office, then simply avoid the wet-look gel and use a smoothing cream on damp hair instead, laying off the finishing products. Chris Merrick, Salon Partner, Blue Tit Crouch Hill
PARTING WAYS Last season was all about the styles sported by nineties heartthrobs and after seeing the new season shows, it seems we’ll be throwing it back to the nineties for a little longer, as centre-parted bangs – think Backstreet Boys’ Nick Carter – are back with a bang! Fen Chen Wang continued the nineties revival that kicked off last season at Fendi, with centre-parted curtains that can be recreated very easily. A pomade will add some guts and grime to the look – an essential feature of nineties hair – and a fine toothed-comb will help you nail that all important centre-parting. Angular and oval face shapes can pull off the look easily but rounder faces should avoid such a harsh style.
THE NEW LENGTH
In stark contrast to the slick centre-partied Nineties’ styles that have been lingering since last season, Spring/ Summer ’18 presents us with a great alternative: hair worn high in tall quiffs, full of both body and volume. The Velsvoir SS18 presentation and Topman’s SS18 show both showcased quiffs reimagined for the modern man: they’re quiffs, but not as we know them. At the former they were worn centre-parted and wet-looking, while at the latter, they had a distinct Eighties’ clubber vibe – imagine a cross between a New Romantic and a Fifties’ Rocker and you’re pretty much there. It was an unusual hybrid style that bizarrely worked rather well. For a slightly more classic version the Death to Tennis SS18 presentation provides great inspiration: here quiffs were more traditional in their style, worn swept up into modern-day Elvis quiffs, similar to those we saw a few seasons back. The difference between this style and those of last year is the finish: a matte finish brings the style into this season, so keep it fresh for 2018 with a mattlook wax when adding the height and hold.
Last season we saw length increasing, with longer, tousled locks spotted at various shows. This season, hair is getting even longer, going past shoulder length and heading in to Tarzan-inspired chest-length territory. N-P-Elliott’s models wore hair nipple-skimming, wild and flowing, in natural looking waves that started straighter near the scalp and got curlier as the length increased. The look is one that verges on feminine, yet manages to retain a masculine toughness. If hair is already very long and you want to recreate this style, scrunch a texturizing salt spray thorough damp locks, but avoid any finishing products, to keep the look as raw, natural and rugged as possible. The styling difference between this look and the long, shaggy bedhead styles of last season is the roots – whereas last season’s had body and hold, courtesy of an upside-down blow-dry and diffusion, this season’s are straighter and worn flatter to the head.
TURN UP THE VOLUME A year ago we saw fifties style quiffs everywhere. They took a step back for a season and now they are back for SS18, but this time with added volume and height. At New York Fashion Week Men SS18 the Death to Tennis presentation featured models with hair worn high and swept back, in a look that was groomed and softly sculpted, and finished with tall quiffs. It’s a very dapper look that looks better – not to mention more on trend – with a matte finish. Use a stronghold gelwax to add the necessary hold to keep the quiff high and in place, but avoid anything with a shine or wet-look finish, so the end result remains modern, not greasy.
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“I prefer living in colour”
– DAVID HOCKNEY
We agree with David. Light. Dark. Vibrant. Contrasting. Tonal. The options are endless and allow for boundless creativity. As always, SalonNV has enlisted the experts to keep you up-to-date with what you should expect in the salon over the next few months.
Sarah Black, Colour Specialist at Linton & Mac, and national winner at L’Oreal Colour Trophy Awards 2017: G E N- Z Y E LLOW Move over millennial pink, there’s a new colour trend in town! While millennial pink ranged from beige with a touch of blush, to a vibrant peachy-salmon hybrid, we’re now welcoming an influx of yellow, which is proving to be a welcome palette cleanser. Jeremy Scott’s SS18 show was heavy on the yellow hues and we predict an influx of requests for this sunshine shade. We’ll be leaving the juicy vibrant yellow hair trend of 2017 behind though; this spring/summer ‘18 yellow is much more mellow. PE TRO L H E A D While last season was all about mermaid shades, this season’s colour has toughened up. The azure shades that we saw last year are back, but have taken on an inkier, grittier hue for Spring/Summer. Backstage at the Fendi show, Sam McKnight gave the Hadid sisters and Kendall Jenner the show’s signature style: ‘petrol bangs.’ Chunky side fringes were tinted petrol blue and forest green, in an almost futuristic style reference that brought a touch of masculinity to the show. The mossy green shade is actually very similar to my winning colour at the 2017 L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award. While it isn’t the most wearable of shades for every day, I predict that these attention-grabbing inky colours will come in to their own at next summer’s festivals. PL ATI NUM C A RD We saw icy shades of white, platinum and pearly grey emerging at last season’s shows, and now it seems the trend for ice queen shades is really taking hold, with models at the Versus SS18 show showcasing platinum locks and celebrities using the Fashion Week ‘frow’ as an opportunity to show off their own nod to the trend (most notably, Kim Kardashian). White blonde is notoriously difficult to achieve, maintain AND keep in good condition and ensuring that clients understand this, before adopting the look, is paramount. We always strive to achieve the most flattering tone of platinum at Linton & Mac, taking in to account a client’s skintone: remember not all shades of platinum are equal. Colour upkeep is important and products that encourage the colour to stay icy-white should be used regularly, however the real key to maintaining a platinum blonde style is with products that will nourish the hair and scalp. A regular hair mask or in-salon deep conditioning treatment, as well as regular trims and heat-protective styling products are essential.
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Jenny Pelter, Technical Director, Westrow Artistic Team and Co-Franchisee, Westrow Street Lane: BRONZ E GO D D E S S At Fashion Week Spring/Summer ’18, model of the moment was Kaia Gerber, daughter of the original brunette supermodel Cindy Crawford, so it’s no surprise that colourists backstage were keen to play up to Kaia’s brunette reputation with shades as close to her natural colour as possible. My favourite of these shades was a beautiful warm bronze colour that she rocked at Isabel Marant SS18 – a rich coppery brown, that appeared to have been painted with a freehand technique and which reflected the light beautifully. It’s the perfect antidote to all the shades of blonde we see so much of throughout the summer. The beauty of bronze is that it looks so natural, yet is really striking, and it can really lift certain skin tones and complexions. Medium and darker complexions with pink undertones can pull off a lighter shade of bronze, however yellow skintones, especially those with very dark eyes, run the risk of appearing more sallow next to lighter bronze tones and so benefit from sticking to a darker, more ruddy version. When colouring the hair bronze I would stick to using a Foilyage technique, similar to Balayage, but using foils, which should give just enough subtle colour placement to brighten and warm up brunette locks.
NI NE TI E S I CO NS The nineties have been a key style reference for a couple of seasons now – not only for women, but for men too – and this season, even hair colour won’t escape the influence of this era. At Moschino SS18 the clothes, make-up and haircuts all had a clearly identifiable nineties vibe and were unmistakably inspired by the original supermodels of the decade. The Moschino models showed off a variety of hair colours, but two key features defined the look. Firstly, all the colours were apparently based on nineties icons – we saw Pamela Anderson blonde, Winona Ryder’s 1991 raven shade, and Linda Evangelista’s iconic red. Secondly, every shade had that ‘fresh from a bottle’ appearance, characterized by its one-dimensional shade, an almost artificial-looking colour and plenty of colourful vibrancy. Recreate this nineties style in salon by lifting the base from root to tips, to create a uniform lightened foundation, before applying a single shade of vibrant red all over. A colourcare treatment such as Olaplex, will protect the hair from any potential damage, while a deep conditioning follow-up treatment, such as a Kérastase Instant Ritual, will give that allimportant supermodel gloss finish.
IC E I C E BA BY Cooler shades of white blonde are simply gorgeous for summer so it’s no surprise that the SS18 shows were both a platform to showcase the trend – Versus SS18 models wore the look beautifully – and show off the trend (Kim Kardashian went an icy shade of silver and used Fashion Week as a chance to show the world). I predict that it will be the more natural variations of white blonde that will be most popular once we get in to next season, rather than the silver hued shade that Kim K sported. At Roberta Einer’s SS18 show the look was Californian girl post-surf, so hair was very white through the crown and front – more sun-beaten than sun kissed. Meanwhile at Peter Pilotto, the shade was very pale baby blonde; very Scandinavian and pure. This is the kind of shade that calls for a lot of post-colour care and ideally a conditionpreserving treatment during the colouring process. A full colour consultation is also essential to determine whether this highmaintenance colour is suitable and if so, which shade is best suited to the client’s skin tone.
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Poland polishes up on Headpaint Fudge Professional The latest oversees venture for Fudge Professional saw Global Head of Technical Training Tracy Hayes lead a seminar in Poznan, Poland, for Fudge’s distributor partner E Hair and 40 of their top customers. Tracy was joined by colourist Sophie Dale and repeat brand collaborator Jason Dyer of Haircut Club. The seminar began with a colour section, in which Tracy and Sophie focused on clean blonde bleaches that made use of beautiful toners. This was then followed by a cutting section, led by Jason, who inspired the audience with an array of techniques that rendered striking results on longer hair styles. Next up was an editorial section, which showcased effortless looks that drew inspiration from Chanel’s catwalk shows in which models’ hair is adorned with pearls, fused with braiding techniques. The show provided an excellent opportunity to demonstrate the true scope and colour palette that can be achieved with Fudge’s Headpaint range, with the Polish audience delighted with everything from soft apricot coppers, brunettes that revealed hidden depths of deep violets and navies, as well as an array of soft washes achieved with the Paintbox colour range. The looks were finished with Fudge’s formidable styling range, with Jason successfully demonstrating the capability and versatility of the brand’s backstage kitbag staples. In total, the seminar featured eight models, and ensured the audience was engaged through colouring, cutting and styling, right through to the finished looks.
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Join us at The biggest Hair, Beauty&BarberingAward Show in Scotland! SUNDAY 16TH SEPTEMBER 2018 | HILTON GRAND BALLROOM, GLASGOW
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With 30 titles to be won across a range of hair, beauty, aesthetics, barbering, make-up artistry, tattooing, and business categories you’re sure to find your chance to shine.
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
www.scottishhairandbeautyawards.com SalonNV Magazine | 21
AFTER G L OW 22 | SalonNV Magazine
Creative Director: Neil Smith Hair: Eufora Editorial Team 2017 Make-up: Roseanna Velin Photography: Dan Thomas
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P R O D U C T ENVY
EDITOR’S COMMENT We have a mix of old classics and new favourites in this issue’s Editor’s Choice. Session stylist looking to get your client ready for a big photo-shoot or TV appearance? R+Co’s new shampoo and conditioner promises to be the perfect elixir for screen ready hair.
Urban Alchemy Opus Magnum Signature Cleanse The ultimate deep-cleansing exclusive in-salon service to remove all residue from hair and promote hair growth and strengthening.
Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Clinically proven to reduce the appearance of wrinkles in 14 days, improve hydration, and leave skin feeling firmer and looking more radiant.
Fudge Paintbox Creative SemiPermanent Colour 10 optimised core shades are designed to be intermixed providing a limitless palette of bespoke colours. Fudgeprofessional.com
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Leighton Denny Street Dance From their latest colour collection, this is a glittery, party shade that will look fantastic on the dance floor. £12 ld-boutique.com
P R O D U C T ENVY
R+Co Television Perfect Hair Conditioner Everything you need for the small screen: body, shine, strengthening, softening, and smoothing. £28.50 randco.com
NovaLash MiniMR A hand-held lash curer dispenses a soft and luxurious super fine mist onto clients’ eyelashes to accelerate the curing process. novalash.com
Kerastase Aura Botanica A new professional luxury natural origin haircare range with Miscellar Shampoo, Soin Fondamental, Concentre Essentiel, and Essence d’Eclat. Kerastase.co.uk
Easiweft Hair Extentions Holder Use the Easiweft in the salon to assist when fitting all hair extension types including wefts, tapes, pre bonded extensions and micro rings. £19.95 www.easiweft.com/snv /easiweft
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P R O D U C T ENVY
Sens.Us MC2 Range A relaunch and reformulation of the MC2 range with a whole new injection of vitamins and proteins to protect, invigorate, and condition hair when colouring. sensushair.com
Corioliss Digital Hot Brush Straightens, detangles, and massages. Ionic to prevent frizz. £23.99 sallybeauty.co.uk
L’Oréal Professionnel Serioxyl Thicker Hair Fibre Thickening Serum 90ml Creates a threedimensional expanding network inside the hair to provide a texturising effect to the hair and increase volume. £29.99 sallybeauty.co.uk
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Therapi Volumising Spray For hair so high you can see it from the sky! Builds volume, adds shine, and boosts root lift during blowdrying. £9.99 therapihair.com
P R O D U C T ENVY
Zen Hair Wet Line Range Help extend the life of your clients’ extensions for a minimum of six months with this shampoo, conditioner, and serum. £26.40 zenhair.co
WetBrush Vented Speed Collection Available in small, medium, or large, they introduce special Aero Technology which is proven to speed-up drying and styling time. £21.99 thewetbrush.com
Indola PPC Ageless Range Simple yet smart colour kit comes in eight shades, enabling grey hairs to be strobed away for a fashionable, yet ageless, look. indola.com
Organic Colour Systems Control Clay Great for adding definition to short hair, it promises to give you that sculpted texture and matte finish. £13.95 organiccoloursystems.com
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P R O D U C T ENVY
SKIN & MAKEUP
Iconic London Illuminator A concentrated liquid shimmer that can be added to your foundation, primer, or moisturiser, or simply used on its own for a super highlighted glow. iconiclondoninc.com
Barry M Matte Me Up Lip Kit Three new nude shades join the Matte Me Up collection offering a ‘dare to bare’ option to flatter every skin tone. £6.99 superdrug.com
NovaLash 24hr Cream Shadow A long-lasting cream shadow formula designed as an ‘extended wear’ product to eliminate touch-ups. £18.50 novalash.com
Image Skincare Ronert MD Post-Treatment Collagen Lip Enhancement Ultra-hydrating polypeptide complex formulated to visibly enhance the volume of lips and diminish the appearance of fine lines. imageskincare.co.uk
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P R O D U C T ENVY
P R O D U C T ENVY
FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT
Beauty Star Anita Rec Revolving work chaire with reclining backrest and height adjustable headrest. beautystar.it
Premier Gold Regency Salon Trolley Simple yet sophisticated salon trolley with stainless steel trim and a stainless steel heatproof top. Features a lockable drawer, a standard drawer, and a cupboard. £136 salonequipmentcentre.co.uk
Takara Belmont Zen Shiki Saying Chair Inspired by and created to reflect the Japanese art of Zen through its fine detailing and effect on the emotions.
Hive of Beauty Neos 200cc Heater Suitable for all warm, crème, and hot depilatory waxes, and paraffin waxes. Features a temperature regulator dial and is supplied with fitted lid. £21.99 salon-services.com
CACI Ultimate Combining Microcurrent, Facial Toning, Crystal Free Orbital Microdermabrasion, and LED Light Therapy Photo Stimulation, this is truly the most versatile aesthetic treatment system available. caci-international.co.uk
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I C O N PORTRAIT
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Hair: Filip Cerri, Daniel Granger Hairdressing Make Up: Roseanna Velin Photography: Dan Thomas
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THE BIG HAIR DAY
It’s going to be the most photographed day of their life. They’ve spent months, if not years, if not a lifetime, planning every minute detail. All eyes will be upon them. Time for their hair to shine. While classic looks will always be in vogue when it comes to wedding hair, the most stylish of brides will be after something a little bit more special. Top wedding stylists from SJ Forbes and Westrow tell us what they think will be the sought after styles this summer. Hayley Gibson-Forbes, co-director, SJ Forbes: SWIN G LOW The Marchesa bridal show is like a bridal beauty barometer, so if the spring 2018 show is anything to go by, we’ll be seeing plenty of bridal requests for low ponytails next wedding season. It is such a beautiful, wearable look, transforming what is essentially a powerful, very polished ponytail in to a more elegant style by placing it so delicately at the nape of the neck. At the aforementioned Marchesa show, the models wore their low ponytails slightly dishevelled: the pony itself had a deconstructed loose wave to it while fine wisps of face-framing locks finished the look. It was a sweet, yet thoroughly modern look, the perfect balance of grace, femininity, and power. At Pia Michi, a more fierce-looking power pony – very sleek, very polished – took centre stage, but again was worn low on the neck. The ponytail itself was worn very straight – in contrast to the Marchesa’s – but again, keeping the ponytail low kept the look very elegant and somewhat innocent. At Peter Langner’s show, low buns, rather than ponytails, were paired with highnecked Victorian style gowns. These low styles are so chic and timeless and I’ll be suggesting them to bridal clients looking for a modern alternative to traditional up-dos.
Hair: Rafael Bueno
D E BUTA NTE WAVE S Reem Acra’s models had a distinctly debonair look, with styles that seemed to be inspired by aristocracy, society girls, and debutantes. The look was very polished, glossy and prim, with big waves and hair parted to the side. It’s a look that will translate well for real-life brides, as it’s a classic style – very wearable, fairly easy to create and timeless. The key to nailing this look is in the preparation: a smoothing cream is essential, as is a really powerful hairdryer. Blow-drying hair with a round brush will add the essential shine, volume and wave, while any extra waves can be added with a big-barrelled tong. A shine spray will finish the look, which should look glossy, ‘swishy’, and very polished. BE AC H BUM Jenny Packham’s show provided very refreshing hair inspiration for next year’s brides, in the form of dishevelled, textured, beachy waves. We’re accustomed to seeing perfect ringlets and are constantly faced with bridal requests for neat, uniform waves, but these new season waves are anything but that. This is the kind of texture you get when hair is wet with salty sea-water and then left to dry naturally. It’s a look that’s not as neat and tidy as most brides usually want, but is ideal for anyone getting married on a Sardinian beach or in a rustic Agroturismo in the Ibizan hills. Naeem Khan is another designer that picked natural texture over artificial-looking waves or perfect ringlets for spring 2018. This look definitely works better on longer, thicker locks – a fullness to the hair is essential to stop hair looking too messy, however extensions can add the desired body and necessary inches if you aren’t naturally blessed with either. At SJ Forbes we use the highest quality 100% human hair Easilocks hair extensions. They’re so gentle on your natural hair; they don’t require heat, glue, sewing, or braiding and can blend beautifully with your natural hair colour. Semi-permanent extensions, as opposed to clip-in ones, are also a great idea for brides, to keep hair looking glamorous and beautiful for the honeymoon.
Hair: Raquel Saiz
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Hair: Raquel Saiz
Hair: Rafael Bueno
Amy Lopez, Westrow’s Bridal Hair Specialist: 3 D E MBE L L I S H ME N T Not one for wallflowers, Bridal Fashion Week 2018 was awash with dresses embellished with three-dimensional flowers. This quietly extravagant way to do floral was executed beautifully at Romona Kevez, Lela Rose, and Viktor & Rolf, with dresses that were a heady mix of pretty, sweet, and attention demanding. If you don’t want to commit to the extravagance of all-over 3D flowers, or fear that it’s a look that could date quickly, then go for the embellishment on your accessories. At Peter Langner, Mira Zwillinger, and Lela Rose, models wore capes (another massive trend for 2018) adorned with 3D floral. Try this if you want to nod to two big trends. Complete the look: This fresh take on floral should be complemented with a hairstyle that is equally modern and pretty. A low bun at the nape of the neck is simple enough to let the flowers take centre stage, while for a more English country garden feel, copy the Marchesa Notte way of doing braids: two intricate but effortless loose scalp braids. OVE RS I Z E D BOWS What could be more feminine than bows? A wedding dress feels like the natural home of this graceful, elegant detail, so to see oversized bows feature heavily at Bridal Fashion Week 2018 is a delight. At Carolina Herrera, Viktor & Rolf, and Oscar De La Renta, gowns were very plain and chic, reminiscent of old Hollywood glamour, and adorned either at the front, or more frequently at the back, with a huge bow.
BROOKS & BROOKS BRIDAL HAIR TIPS This summer, bridal hair may be softer and more natural, but brides still want their style to look good after walking down the aisle and dancing on the dancefloor. So how can you ensure it looks good all day long – and what style advice should you be offering your clients? Kayleigh Twigg, senior stylist at Brooks & Brooks, London, offers these tips: 1. When applying the veil, pull out a few of the teeth on the comb to give it a tighter grip on the hair. It will slide in much easier this way and not ruin the structure of the bob.
Complete the look: The simplicity of the gown should be continued in to the hair and make-up, to let the bow do all the talking. Oscar De La Renta’s smooth low ponytails are the perfect accompaniment to this style of dress and I’d recommend very natural make-up, with a focus on naked glowing skin and perhaps a statement red lip, to reflect the boldness of the bow. UN CO NVE NTI ON A L ACCE SORI E S Designers have really gone against the grain with next season’s bridal accessories. Forget the traditional earrings, floral headbands and diamond tiaras – the new way for brides to adorn themselves is highly unconventional. Monique Lhuillier and Naeem Khan led the way with pearl body jewellery. Don’t be fooled by the inclusion of ladylike pearls – this look is reminiscent of Madonna’s Like a Virgin get-up. Jewels aren’t the only accessories to get a non-traditional makeover. In an even more dramatic twist on tradition, the veil – arguably the most customary part of a bride’s look – was re-imagined at Sachin & Babi and worn tied around the bride’s neck. Complete the look: If you’re bold enough to opt for either of these looks, go for hair and make-up that’s equally edgey. Sachin & Babi’s brides wore a slick of bright white Bobbi Brown eyeliner, in a look that was as unconventional as the neck veil. Meanwhile Naeem Khan’s choppy deconstructed waves and matte copper lipstick make for a thoroughly modern bride.
2. If hair is pulled back from the face, a chunky braid on one side is a nice feature and softens the look. 3. If hair is worn in a soft chignon or modern messy bun at the nape, a couple of decorative pins or flowers keep it on trend, but add interest. 4. Don’t forget most photographs will be taken from the front, so make sure the face doesn’t look too severe – create a little height on top and pull some tendrils out to frame the face. 5. Make sure your bride has a few spare grips, dry shampoo and hairspray in her bag for late-night emergencies. 6. Prepping hair correctly is my biggest
Hair: Jose Garcia Peluqueros tip using the right products – my favourite is L’Oreal Tecni Art Pli to ensure hair stays in place all day long. Find out more about the Brooks & Brooks team: www.brooksandbrooks.co.uk Instagram: @brookshair
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Argia Collection Hair: Jose Garcia Peluqueros Makeup: Isabel Garcia Stylist: Rosa Clara Photographer: Roberto Lechado
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Belle Epoque Collection Hair: Raquel Saiz Assistant: Paula Alonso Makeup: Nacho Sans Stylist: Leo Martinez & Alejandro Resta Photographer: Esteban Roca Jewellery: Tomas Pelayo
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CURTIS CREATIVE TEAM
ON THE CATWALK Award-winning hairdresser and renowned session stylist Matthew Curtis and his Creative Team styled the hair at bridalwear designer Stephanie Allin’s recent catwalk show as part of an event hosted by esteemed bridal retailer The Wedding Club and Conde Naste’s BRIDES magazine. Bridal Makeup TRENDS
Stacey Whittaker, awardwinning make-up artist, gives us her tips on the hottest eye make-up trends.
“There are so many eye makeup trends that clients are consistently requesting at the moment, especially subtle eyeliner and warm toned shadows. Instead of the classic winged liner, a softer less dramatic eyeliner is a favourite amongst brides just now. This can look more feminine and pretty than a classic wing and looks gorgeous with fluffy, natural lashes. Neutral tones with warmth are also bang on trend just now. Warm browns with beige and taupe tones are really popular. I would always recommend that makeup artists have the Urban Decay Ultimate Basics in their kit as the shade range is brilliant.”
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The glamorous afternoon event, which took place in The Berkeley Ballroom at the prestigious Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge, London, provided guests with a chance to celebrate a host of international names in bridalwear including Stephanie Allin, Zuhair Murad, Naeem Khan, Berta and Costarellos to name a few. British-based designer Stephanie Allin has been creating stunning bridal dresses for 25 years and has boutiques in Marylebone, London and South Wales, which is where the atelier is located. For the show, Matthew Curtis Creative Team styled models’ hair in a variety of classic styles, including soft Hollywood waves and voluminous blowouts, accessorising with a stunning array of crowns and accessories. Guests at the show also enjoyed flower displays for top London florists, and following the catwalk show could have their hair and make-up perfected by the Matthew Curtis Creative Team and top make-up artist Sophie McMullan, who worked together to recreate the runway looks and bridal styles of the show.
Big Day Hair Tips from Afro Specialist Junior Green, owner of Junior Green London I would advise any bride to be to see her hairdresser a good six months in advance of the big day to start getting her hair in tiptop condition with a regime of regular treatments and trims. Trend wise, we are seeing brides opting for less structured looks â€“ softer, looser, more undone styles, not the very structured up-dos of the past. In terms of techniques, we are creating distressed braids and using wefts to create soft beach waves. When creating any style for a bride, the stylist needs to take into account accessories such as veils. If the bride is wearing a veil, you need to create a style that is not going to get lost â€“ the veil and hair need to complement each other, so always ask the bride to bring her veil to the salon so you can work with it when creating her bridal hair look.
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Two Sights Collection Hair: Gonzalo Zarauza @ Centro Beta Makeup: Wild Van Dijk Photographer: David Arnal Stylist: Visorifashionart Designers: Miquel Suay, Francis Montesinos, Javier y Javier, La Boheme, Jesus Peiro
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Two Sights Collection Hair: Ziortza Zarauza @ Centro Beta Makeup: Wild Van Dijk Photographer: David Arnal Stylist: Visorifashionart
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Extending the look For brides wearing their hair down on their wedding day, Hair Rehab London salon professional bonds are a great, long-lasting choice and these can be fitted at the same time as the client is having their pre-wedding colour applied - killing two birds with one stone is always a bonus. In addition, this also means that hairdressers can perfectly match the client’s extensions to their freshly coloured hair which will see them through their wedding day, honeymoon and beyond. To make the most of their salon professional bonds throughout said honeymoon, clients can be advised to take measures whilst away that can protect the condition and colour of their extensions. The amount of products offering effective heat defence and U/chlorine protection these days is really impressive so salons can take their pick and even use this as an opportunity to up-sell. For those brides opting for an up-do, we would suggest using Hair Rehab London clip-ins, as they come in pieces which can be easily manipulated into different styles – a bridal hairstylist’s dream! To ensure the shade is right, colour matching should be done in natural light and if the bride to be has just had their hair coloured, they should wait for a few washes to ensure a true representation if colour is prone to fading. We offer a colour matching service where we ask for a headshot taken in natural light, with no flash or filter and this is very popular as it takes out the worry for many customers. In addition, if a client’s hair colour is unique and not already available in the Hair Rehab London range (for example, a pastel/ ultra-vibrant shade), our human hair clip-ins can be coloured so you don’t have to go without extensions. When it comes to choosing hair extensions specifically for bridal up-dos, the choice is endless, which is great news for many modern brides who are turning their backs on traditional ‘softer’ styles and instead, opting for something that more closely represents their day-to-day look and individuality. For example, women who normally favour “big hair” could opt for Hair Rehab London’s Luxe Wrap Ponytail (pinned into a style) or the Luxe Half Wig which creates a bold and voluminous look. Again, as these are human hair they can be colour matched as necessary. Lastly, if your client is a regular extensions wearer and is already in possession of their own clip-ins, why not suggest they bring them along to the bridal hair trials to incorporate where necessary. That way, they know they’re wearing extensions that they trust on one of the biggest days of their life!” Lauren Pope, CEO of Hair Rehab London www.hairrehablondon.com
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Hair: Ziortza Zarauza
NOT YOUR AVERAGE
WEDDING They do things a little different up north. Rather than hosting a traditional wedding event with your usual vendors, local businesses including Linton & Mac teamed up to host a sell-out event where unique, independent ideas were at the forefront.
A sell-out success, Not Your Average Wedding brought together a creative collaboration of some of the best small businesses in Aberdeen. Held at the super cool events space, Unit 51, brides and grooms were surrounded by inspirational ideas and products to ensure that their upcoming big day is as perfect and unique as can be. Businesses involved included: Kim Dalglish Florist, Sam Brill Photography, Bonsai Wedding Films, Ivory Grace, The Closet Vintage, Aubeebop Jewellery, The Little White Cow, North East Chandlery, Robyn’s Egg Flower & Event Design, PaperSkeleton Peach Powder Blue, The Gourmet Cheese Company, The Wandering Oven, The Hot Dog Cart, The Fizzy Popsicle Company, OriGINS, Paul Black Music, Manhattan Function Band and DJ Kev Reid. From hair and make-up, to cakes and ‘scentscaping’ (filling a space with scents to create an experience), the event covered all bases, and gave the affiliated local businesses the opportunity to showcase products and offerings to the attending brides and grooms. Aside from collaboration, the award-winning Linton & Mac salon used the event to launch its exciting new bridal packages to attendees. From January 2018, the talented team will be offering pre-bridal hair and beauty services, ‘Groomed Groom’ treatments, Hen Party packages, and Wedding Day services for the whole bridal party that can be held in the salon or on location. Jennifer Linton and Joanna MacDonald said: “We wanted to collaborate with like-minded local businesses to present something that was fun, inclusive and accessible to all. The ‘Not Your Average Wedding’ event did what it said on the tin and offered attendees something a little bit different from the usual wedding exhibition experience. “There was a fantastic vibe and the feedback that we received from the brides and grooms was brilliant. Not only was the event a great success, but all proceeds from the ticket sales went to local Cancer charity Friends of Anchor.”
Philip Bell of Ishoka Hair and Beauty’s
Three months to go Choosing the style of your hair for your wedding takes a lot of thought and experimenting. With three months to go, this is a great time to begin trialing different styles with your stylist. When in the salon bring along images of styles you like as well as examples of your dress, jewellery, and makeup which you will be wearing on the day. It is key to get the right balance between these to avoid too much going on above the neckline. If you are planning on wearing a head piece or extensions it is essential for you to bring this in so the piece can be colour matched to the colour you have on the day.
One month to go You want your hair to look its best on your big day so remember to keep it in the best condition possible. Book regular appointments with your stylist (every six weeks) for regular trims as well as conditioning treatments to keep hair looking and feeling fresh. At this stage try your chosen style so you know exactly how you will look on your wedding day. Two weeks to go If your hair has been relaxed this is a good time for retouching to keep it looking its best. I would also recommend another conditioning treatment so the hair feels and looks as healthy as possible.
One week to go If your hair has been coloured this is the best time to touch up any regrowth so that you do not have any roots for your big day and so your colour is at its best. One day to go I would suggest a shine treatment the day before your wedding to give hair a glossy luxurious feel! The big day Your wedding day is all about you! Make sure your day has been planned so that you feel pampered while being transformed into a princess and that you do not become worried about time. Whether you are at the salon or your stylist has come to you ensure that you are completely happy with the finished look and of course enjoy your wedding day!
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Jade Collection Hair by: Rafael Bueno @ Rafael Bueno Peluqueros Hair Assistant: Moyses Utrera Makeup: Jorge Sánchez Stylism: Rafael Urquizar Photographer: Alberto Zaldívar Models: Paula & Alba Headdress: Martina Dorta Production: DE. Management Extensions: Elegance Hair Extensions
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BEAUTIFUL HAIR WITH
Sesh Hairdressing, 50 – 52 Bernard Street, Edinburgh, EH6 6PR www.seshhairdressing.co.uk 0131 555 0708
Situated on Bernard Street in the heart of the creative Leith area of Edinburgh, is a treat to escape the hustle and bustle – SESH Hairdressing. The newly refitted Sesh hairdressing salon is a bright, contemporary concept with an extremely relaxing feel. Created by salon owner, Simon Hill, Sesh creates a calming, soothing ambience and essence other salons aspire to. With twelve hair stations, backwash area, consultation table, beautiful lighting, and a fresh, modern look it is the perfect spot for clients to get pampered and leave feeling refreshed. Owner Simon Hill explained how he feels about the new look salon, saying: “I am delighted with the way the salon looks, and after a busy few weeks organising the refit I feel very proud of the new look and the response from our launch night. Clients who enter our salon do so because they are looking to us to help them look and perhaps more importantly, feel better. Our hairdressers are not only fantastic at giving the very highest quality hair treatments, cuts and colour makeovers but they are naturally empathetic, warm and interested in each and every client’s emotional well-being too.” An exclusive list of press and bloggers were invited to the launch event and had the opportunity to experience the new salon refit. Sesh Hairdressing teamed up with Malmaison in Leith on Tower Place and guests were invited to meet in their stylish bar area. They were treated to cocktails and canapés before heading to the Sesh hair salon. Upon arrival at Sesh, Owner Simon Hill made a warm welcoming speech explaining that the refit “was stressful but I am delighted with the new look as it is a haven for clients to be pampered and feel at ease.” Simon then talked through the running of the night, where guests could enjoy a blow-dry, or have their hair curl at the curl bar station with the new Hot Tools curling iron, showcased by Janie Randall, owner of We Love Hair & Beauty. The latest addition to Sesh Hairdressing was their consultation table and was a big hit with guests, where salon stylists talked through an exclusive colour process or bridal style, suggesting colours, products, and Nioxin scalp treatments they could recommend. With the fizz flowing and guests enjoying themselves, Sesh hairdressing is a force to be reckoned with creating “beautiful hair with Leith flair!”
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Clients who enter our salon do so because they are looking to us to help them look and perhaps more importantly, feel better.
Supporting Hairdressing’s Future
ad trouble enticing apprentices to join your salon? Finding yourself unable to expand due to a lack of willing applicants? You’re not alone. One of the biggest issues facing the hairdressing industry right now is how to encourage today’s youth to choose it as a career. Many young people consider it an old fashioned, unsociable, and limited profession – it’s up to us to change their mind. We all know what a career in hair has to offer – whether it’s simply having fun with your clients, showing creativity and imagination in your styling, or travelling abroad for session styling work and education, hairdressing can be whatever you want it to be. That’s why recruiter Emma Bavin set up ChooseHair.co.uk and the Facebook group Supporting Hairdressing’s Future. Emma aims to bring the industry together, from manufacturers and salons, right up to the governing bodies, to work out how they can address the problem and come
up with a way to move forward. That’s where you come in. Emma has highlighted Careers Week and various careers fairs throughout the year as key points in which stylists and hair professionals from around the country can get into schools and show the kids first hand just what they could gain from a career in hairdressing.
Despite it being the early days of the campaign, Emma expects that they’ll be represented in over 40 schools at Careers Week in March, but with thousands of schools around the country, there’s still much more to do. Through the Choose Hair website and Supporting Hairdressing’s Future Facebook group, anyone who wants to help out has a fantastic resource of information that will help them when it comes to phoning schools to gain permission to attend careers events, and information packs they can provide to the school with a wealth of knowledge including lesson plans devoted to teaching children about our wonderful industry. www.choosehair.co.uk
British Hairdresser of the Year 2017 “One of the major problems we face as an industry is that hairdressing has traditionally been seen as a career offering antisocial hours and low pay. It takes a long journey and a lot of training and commitment for a young hairdresser to earn a decent wage and many other industries offer a much faster and simpler route. We as an industry need to show the job in a positive light if we are to ever have a chance of securing the best candidates for our salons. As employers, we also need to be aware that young people want different things than we did at their age. An eager young person entering hairdressing today wants to try all aspects of the industry, including session styling, working in a salon, show work, and all the other avenues a career in hairdressing offers. They don’t want to
tie themselves down to one particular area too soon. Salon owners need to try and accommodate this change in attitude and be more flexible in their approach, while also fulfilling our role as mentors, helping to direct them and offer them a good career path. To keep our younger team members motivated, we try to involve them in our company projects. We do a lot of show and educational work both in the UK and abroad so this gives a great opportunity to involve the young team. It doesn’t necessarily mean they go on stage, but they like to be involved and feel valued. We try to give the youngsters a clear path which has achievable goals all the way along. This alleviates the problem of boredom setting in between career highs” Brooksandbrooks.com
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Blue Tit Salon Crouch Hill
lue Tit Salon, Crouch Hill, inspired by a Brooklyn loft apartment exposes the true art of interior design. The juxtaposition of textures makes the raw brick stand out from the minimalist floor enhancing its cool tones and authentic nature. This stylish yet welcoming space embraces a monochrome colour pattern broken up by the rich blue furnishings from Takara Belmont. Featuring their Harp grooming chair as part of the D-Series, its sleek and polished approach creates an inviting interior for all clients to enjoy. With 360‹ lockable rotation and a low backrest, offer a client experience that delivers luxury at the most exacting of standards. Salon owner Perry Patraszewski says "Belmont chairs are the best quality hairdressing furniture available on the market, when running multiple salons you need things you can rely on. Belmont not only provide robust chairs but also customisable designs that will complement any salon interior”. takarahairdressing.co.uk
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Strobe away those greys Discover NEW PCC Ageless strobing services with 8 new youthful shades:
– Grey coverage – Fashion-powered – Wearable
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Hair: Amparo Fernández @ La Pelu – Amparo Fernández Make-up: Trini F. Silva Styling: La Condesa Photography: Rebeca Saray
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Take on the TAN! Persuade your clients to embrace the golden glow all year round and increase your bottom line. However, there’s a lot of misinformation and myths surrounding fake tan so it can be a challenging task. Arm yourself with the knowledge to separate fact from fiction and give your customers the best possible advice with tips from two of the best in the business: Fake Bake Global Consultant, Sandra Vaughan and Global Creative Consultant James Harknett. Myth: The Skinny Tan Sandra says: “There are no clinical trials or medical evidence that a false tan can help you lose pounds or inches. We may want to believe it, but no lotion or potion can make you skinny”. Whilst a tan is not a miracle cure, a faux glow can create the illusion of a more defined, toned appearance. James Harknett, Global Creative Consultant at Fake Bake says: “The secret of a defined flatter tummy is contouring on a second coat of tan. The contoured effect is achieved by sweeping your product from the side of the stomach to the centre of the tummy using a foam tanning mitt. It’s almost like you are sweeping yourself thinner. This works on the legs and décolleté too.”
Myth: The Tan That Lasts For Two Weeks A tan that lasts for two weeks? Not possible explains Sandra: “Human skin naturally sloughs off every 5-7 days, making it impossible for a tan to last longer than the natural skin cycle.” James Harknett agrees, saying: “A good false tanner will last on your skin 5-7 days, providing you look after it. My top tips are to keep out of excessively hot water, especially baths, and pat the skin dry after showering. Also moisturise every day with an emollient free product to lock in the colour.”
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Myth: The Shower Tan This ‘first to market’ innovation took the beauty world by surprise, but not Sandra who was familiar with the process. “This formula has been around for years in the USA, there has been a very similar product on the market all this time’.
Myth: Tantouring Is a New Thing Tantouring is a big buzz word in the industry, with some taking claim to creating the trend. However, as James explains, this technique has been around for over a decade: “Tantouring became a buzz word last year and has been used a lot recently to describe the constant search for a contoured fake tan. Personally I’ve been layering my spray tans for over 10 years to create a 3D look for my clients. Each time I have a different body in front of me I work with their individual physique to enhance and shade it.”
Myth: Streaks Are Inevitable Streaks are easily avoided, if tan is applied correctly, explains James: “Avoid streaks by applying your tan to smooth moisturefree limbs, simply moisturise sparingly on dry areas such as ankles, knees and elbows. Moisturiser can block tan from activating evenly across the skin’s surface. Always exfoliate before self-tanning as this will remove dead cells, and ensure you shave no less than 24hours before application, to give all pores the chance to close over which will avoid guide colour seeping into them. Finally, use a product with a guide colour that allows you to see where you are tanning.
Myth: Fake Tan is For Women New research (on over 1,200 men) from Fake Bake has found that more men than ever are using fake tan as part of their grooming routine. In fact 53% admit to tanning in ‘secret’ and a whopping 69% of men aged between 25 and 44 admit to using their partner’s beauty products including their tanning products. Once seen as something only women did in secret, most of the men (33%) admitted it’s no longer acceptable to use a sunbed and with the price of overseas travel rocketing, it’s become vital for gents to hit the bottle for that golden all year-round glow. At The Away Spa in London’s W Hotel, James tans around 50 males per month, and he has seen the figure rise by 10% each year. When asked which trend he has seen rocket this year, James said: “More and more men are asking to be defined and contoured. No matter what the body shape darker and shaded skin boosts body confidence.”
JAMES HARKNETT’S Top Tanning Tips 1. Wax or shave at least 24 hours before tanning to give the skin a chance to calm down. Avoid using hair removing creams and waxing when you have a tan as both of these will strip the tan from the skin in the areas that they are used. 2. Feet - Get your toes done before you get your tan done as the process of pedicurefeet in hot water and being scrubbed etc, will remove the tan from your feet. 3. Exfoliate the day before your tan and only use a body moisturiser that is oil free. DO NOT moisturise your entire body on the day of your tan. Only apply moisturiser to your elbows knees and ankles after you have showered and DO NOT APPLY DEODRANT, OR PERFUME on the day of your tan. A gentle scrub such as Sisley Energising foaming exfoliant is ideal. 4. If you are having your hair tinted or colored, have this done BEFORE your tan as the chemicals in hair dye will strip your tan around your hair line. 5. Before tanning your face: Exfoliate and do not apply moisturiser - If you can’t go without moisturising your face, use only a nonperfumed moisturiser without oil, without AHA’s and without Vitamin A. 6. Start drinking more water - as DHA the ingredient in tans that tans you can dehydrate the skin.
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Rainbow Room International Annual Congress Awards Scotland’s largest salon group, Rainbow Room International joined together for their 29th Annual Congress at the luxurious Airth Castle Hotel and Spa. Team members from Rainbow Room International’s twelve hair and beauty salons arrived at the spectacular venue for a day of inspirational presentations and challenges. This years congress theme was; Past, Present and Future. The day started with a fantastic film from Director of Rainbow Room International’s Ayr salon, Riccardo Corvi, who presented an inspirational video showcasing Rainbow Room International’s heritage, as well as interviews with the salon directors. Next, Rainbow Room International Owner, Alan Stewart, presented data and figures from 2017, sharing information with the salons on how best to utilise the marketing tools they have available to them. This followed by AJC93 PR providing the salons with a PR presentation on the present, showcasing the best coverage from the last year, achievements and how they are set to have as much great coverage for the salons and more in the future. The last presentation was provided by Peter Belcher from The Hairdressers’ Charity, an organisation Alan and Linda are very happy to support regularly to give back to the industry. The day went on with all the invidual salon teams doing a challenge on new ways to gain
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client loyalty, with The Academy taking the top spot with their idea of a ‘Rainbow Monitor Card’ and RRI App. Last but not least was ‘the future’ by the Rainbow Room International Art Team with a presentation from Rainbow Room International Directors and Scottish Hairdressers of the Year, Suzie McGill, and Dylan Brittain, who showcased gorgeous colour blocking techniques and sharp haircuts, talking through the step by step process. They then brought editorial models on to the stage, where Suzie used cord to add a different dimension to the hair and Dylan cut a strong shape into his model’s hair with clippers. The next presentation of looks came from Rainbow Room International’s Diana Carson and Yasmin McMail who took to the stage to talk to the salons about nontouring, men peacocking, and women being beautiful and swapping ideals. Next, Megan Deigan and Patrick McDougall showcased their stunning models with bright bold colour – yellow and peachy pink really standing out from the crowd. Misha McLean from Rainbow Room International’s Uddingston salon and newest member of the Schwarzkopf Young Artistic Team was invited on stage with her model, presenting an intricate braided crown with threading into a low ponytail. It was a truly inspirational day for all the salons. In the evening the teams came together for the RRI Congress Awards. The awards include Assistant of the Year and Fantastic
Hairdresser of the Year through to the sought after Salon Team of the Year award. This year the Salon of the Year award went to the team at Great Western Road for their heart felt entry, showing how extremely well they work together as part of a team. Great Western Road Director, John Parker, was joined on-stage by their entire salon team to collect the prestigious award from company directors Alan and Linda Stewart and were overjoyed; “We are just so proud of our team! We can’t describe the feeling to be taking this home tonight, to win Salon Team of the Year is an incredible achievement. However, our Congress isn’t just about our salon as an individual, it is about working together as a team and spreading the Rainbow Room International brand across the UK and keeping the dream alive.” With the awards over and everyone happy, it was time for the party to begin with the team dancing the night away. A delighted Alan and Linda Stewart said; “It’s a wonderful event and really builds team spirit and gets everyone motivated for the year ahead. Each year the standard gets higher and our judges find it more and more difficult to call. We recognise not only winners but those who are continuously improving as we believe each individual member of our team is special and deserves their own particular recognition of success.”
RRI Congress 2018 Winners
Rainbow Room International Congress Winners Assistant of the Year Level 2 Amy Carmichael, Bearsden Assistant of the Year Level 3 Simone Rigby, Uddingston Achieving A Rating The Team at Howard Street Reception Team of the Year Uddingston Academy Trainer of the Year Stacey Jack, Howard Street Creative Image Award Alijah Nerheim, Bearsden Creative Collection Award Uddingston Blogger of the Year Emma McQuillan, Stirling Special Award for Best Data Input Beauty at 24 Royal Exchange Square Fantastic Hairdresser of the Year Diana Carson, Uddingston
Special Awards, Rainbow Room International Directors All awarded with black diamond Rainbow Room International pin badges David Nicholson, Royal Exchange Square Adrian Foxworthy and Cassie Foxworthy, East Kilbride and Clarkston John Parker and Jo Parker, Great Western Road Wil Fleeson and Shannon Fleeson, Stirling and Buchanan Street Riccardo Corvi, Ayr Leigh Kerr, The Academy Sam McFarlane and Suzie McGill, Uddingston Dylan Brittain and Yasmin McMail, George Square Coco McMahon, Bearsden Julie-Anne Donaldson and Andrew Donaldson, Crow Road
Salon Team of The Year Great Western Road
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Salon Team of The Year Great Western Road
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Take control of the ageing process It’s a fact of life that every face ages. Genes, race, gender, environmental factors and lifestyle choices all play a part in how quickly we show the signs of ageing, but studies have pinpointed that five different cell processes slow or decline at five different landmark ages. I would like to offer an insight here into what to expect from the ageing process and how to manage it. The good news is that facial rejuvenation can start at any time. The aim is to help you look like you – on your very best day, every day.
20s In our 20s, skin might look great, this is what we call your ‘postacne and pre-wrinkles phase’, it is this period that can determine what your skin will look like later in life. The first process to decline is natural antioxidant production, which happens in your 20s. There was, until recently, the belief that those in their 20s needed to simply moisturise and use sunscreen, but new research shows that skin is already susceptible to oxidative stressors and damage.
PROBLEMS: Genetic and environmental factors have an impact on how quickly we age and, from as early as 25 years old, collagen production starts to decline, and the process of skin ageing begins. For some, fine lines may start to show, sunspots appear, skin may become dry, while more extreme conditions such as acne or the resultant scars can still be problematic. The loss of collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin becomes evident in our mid to late 20s. Static lines start to develop as a result of facial movement. Vertical lines appear between our brows and horizontal ones above our brows, while facial proportions may not be in harmony, such as a small chin, lumps or depressions in the nose, or thin lips.
SOLUTIONS: We work with ZO Skin Health to create skincare packages to suit a range of skin concerns, from acne to rosacea and sun spots. To counteract collagen loss, Botox, which has been safely and successfully used cosmetically for 26 years, can be used to decrease the intensity of the muscles, resulting in a softer smoother appearance, while non-surgical dermal fillers can be used for nose and chin re-shaping for both men and women.
30s Our 30s can be a decade where we are juggling work and family life, experiencing a lack of sleep and stress. These have a direct impact on our skin, but this is also when your body’s metabolism starts slowing as does the bioenergy of skin cells. Looking tired and sad is the main complaint from patients.
PROBLEMS: From mid-30s, collagen and elastin are depleting much faster, making skin appear drier more lined. For many women, the latter half of the 30s is when hormone levels begin to drop, which may dry skin out further. The loss of collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin is well established. Lines start to develop as a result of facial movement. Vertical lines appear between our brows and horizontal ones above our brows. The cheeks are one of the first places we lose volume (fatty tissue) in our early and mid-30s. We therefore lose the contour, shape, and height of our cheeks, while hollows under the eyes can appear. The unsupported skin begins to move towards the folds at the nose to mouth lines, making these appear deeper.
SOLUTIONS: ZO Skin Health aims to stimulate your now lazy fibroblast cells to work better and more efficiently at producing HA and collagen. Botox can be used to decrease the intensity of the muscles and therefore fold the skin less, resulting in a softer smoother appearance. Our in-clinic Chemical Peel treatments are designed to optimize and support skin restoration and rejuvenation. Dermal fillers are a safe, effective and minimally invasive way to replace the volume lost in our cheeks, helping to maintain their youthful height. When a little filler is also placed in the chin, this gives a strong profile and lifted appearance. Our aim should only ever be to replace what has been lost and maintain the look of our 30s. Words: Dr Nestor
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AestheticNV SOLUTIONS: ZO medicated skin system will hydrate and repair skin, which chemical peels can help to lift pigmented areas. Botox can be used to weaken the intensity of muscles causing wrinkles between and above the brows, as well as crow’s feet Fillers made of our own natural hyaluronic acid (HA) (the same molecule is found in every living organism) are a clear gel which allows us to restore the volume we have lost. This helps to restore the youthful contours and fullness we once had, without changing the way we look. The aim should always be to look great for our years.
50s and beyond During our 50s and beyond, we will notice a loss of muscle, bone and fat under the skin. This along with changes in collagen and elastin makes fine lines and wrinkles more dramatic, especially if you’ve smoked or spent time in the sun. It is also during this decade that most women experience the menopause.
PROBLEMS: As we enter our 50s, volume loss continues in our foreheads, temples and cheeks, resulting in further lowering of our brow, drawing in of the temples and more pronounced hollowing under the eyes. As the face loses its architectural support in the upper third, the consequences show more in the lower half of the face. Nasolabial fold (nose to mouth lines) appear deeper. Marionette lines (mouth to chin lines) are established, turning the corners of the mouth downwards. Faces tend to look sad and tired, and no longer reflect who we are inside.
SOLUTION: Fillers allow us to restore the volume that has been lost, replacing the fullness we once had without changing us. The aim should always be to look great for our years. Youthful, not younger. I also specialise in the Silhouette Soft® thread lift, which provides an immediate mechanical lifting effect to the entire face as well as a biological lift by stimulating the natural production of collagen, which continues in the months following the process. a Whatever stage of life you are at, you should always be able to look and feel your best for the age you are. Using aesthetic, cosmetic procedures in a well-thought out and planned ma nner will help you to do just that.
Visit www.drnestor.co.uk for some before and after pictures of patients who have kindly allowed us to showcase my work.
At around 40, cellular senescence kicks in. It’s a complicated process in which the natural life cycle of skin cells is arrested, and it affects the complexion in many ways. At this point, quality prescription skincare is almost always necessary and additional aesthetic procedures can make a real difference.
PROBLEMS: Our skin is thinner and less hydrated than it’s ever been before. Uneven skin tone begins to age us. Sun spots appear, as may rosacea (redness around the nose, cheeks, and chin). Darkness under the eyes may become evident as the lower eyelids (one of the thinnest skins in the body) become even thinner, allowing the colour of the underlying muscle to show through. Fine lines around the eyes become more noticeable. As we enter our 40s, volume loss appears in our foreheads, temples and cheeks, resulting in lowering of our brow, drawing in of the temples and some hollowing under the eyes. This can give a sad or tired appearance to an otherwise rested, happy face. As the face loses its architectural support in the upper third, there are consequences in the lower half of the face, with the appearance of mild to moderate jowls and facial sag.
ZO Skin Care Range
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Is brand loyalty a thing of the past? Words by: Emil McMahon As a business consultant I am often asked for help and advice about retailing, and I have written about the topic many times here in SalonNV and for other publications and websites. Being an avid on-line shopper, actually, being an avid shopper full stop, I often look at how brands market themselves and how shoppers shop, this is especially interesting when in a supermarket or chemist. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not surreptitiously following people around checking out their grocery basket, I simply observe what they do. Which leads me to the opening question, is brand loyalty a thing of the past? The answer: yes it is! I know from personal experience that it is, because [my] hair-care regime comes from lots of different brands. Recently, whilst in a social media meeting with one of my clients, Margaret Lee of Peter & Bernard in Bathgate, who is a long-standing expert in all things haircare, we were discussing products and [my] hair loss programme which at this moment in time features Serioxyl shampoo and night serum from L’Oréal Professionel, System Professional Energy Serum from Wella Professionals, and Structure Shaper as my styling product. Margaret asked why I didn’t stick to just one brand? I thought about how I’d moved away from being brand loyal to being someone who cherry picks what to use, and it dawned on me, I have been influenced by what I see other shoppers doing when I watch them in stores, invariably they pick their products based on their preferences and not just because they are from the same brand. The same thing happens online, websites don’t always link products from the same brands when shopping. There is usually a selection of similar priced products from differing ranges to choose from, which makes the shopping experience feel more real, it mirrors the way supermarkets and chemists encourage us to buy and it makes us buy more products. The only time this principal could be questioned is when we buy into high end brands. Online activities recognise this anomaly and if an expensive shampoo is chosen, the corresponding conditioner and other products are offered to match. Subconsciously this influenced my own regime when I was recently trying Kerastase Densifique, I stayed with the complete range whilst I was using it. But what does it mean for salons? Think about how your clients shop and (now) when you recommend products to them you have more options. If they are interested in medium priced brands you can share lots of different ranges with them, that’s how they like to buy products. If they are interested in your luxury brand (of which every salon should have one) then they will be interested in the full package, the total concept of that particular range. To add to that, salons should always carry an ‘entry level’ range as well as high end and mid-priced, that way there is always something to meet every client’s needs. Is brand loyalty a thing of the past? In its truest form the answer has to be yes, it is! However we have become more loyal to a greater, varied selection of products, and for salons that can only be a positive change. *Emil McMahon offers bespoke training on retail, communication, consultation and social media. For more details call 07885 985843 or email firstname.lastname@example.org www. emilthecaretaker.com
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EPIBROW HELLO HENNA BROWS IS THE MUST HAVE BROW TREATMENT FOR 2018! It is the first fully branded henna course to be launched in the UK brought to you by the award winning Epibrow International Academy. Epibrow is passionate about all things brows and have been working behind the scenes on this concept for a while now. Hello Henna is a revolutionary colouring system for the eyebrows using organic henna. Not only do we offer nine-beautiful shades of Henna, we have developed a full marketing package including salon brandwear, consultations, logos for social media, appointment cards, posters the list goes on. This is an easy brand to add on for any existing beauty business, barbers or newbies. Our 1/2 day course is £350+ VAT, this includes full working kit offering 450 treatment - ROI £11,500 to you! There is nothing else like this on the market. Since the launch, we have been blown away by the response
for this training. Our previous students are LOVING this treatment and watching their takings rocket. Our previous student Kim has this to say about the training: “I am absolutely delighted with it – it totally made my day. Hello Henna is a game changer, I love it. I would have to say that as soon as I have everyone patch tested that’s all I’ll use in the salon. I love it and love how it just adapts to everyone’s skin and hair colour.” We have training venues all over the UK & Ireland and are now setup in Norway, Canada & America - amazing results in such a short space of time. Hello Henna is an industry game changer For further information please contact us on 0333 370 3215. Interested in training or distributing for this product? We would love to hear from you. This is the time to get on board.
I N T E R N AT I O N A L A C A D E M Y
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Red Carpet Looks By Jason Collier Award-show season is officially here! It kicked off with the star-studded 75th annual Golden Globes, which took place in Beverly Hills, California, in January. The event celebrates the best films, directors, and actors that stood out in 2017 and whether you are a movie fan or not, celebrity spotting is a great place to pick up style inspiration.
event. Margot Robbie’s lob was given a stylish party feel for this year’s Globes with a sideparting and glamorous Old Hollywood waves. The focus here should be on healthy, shiny hair, with a few loose waves that look styled rather than tousled or textured. Shine sprays or a little serum smoothed over flyaways will enhance this almost sculpted look.
This year, black was the dominant colour seen on the red carpet - part of the protest in support in the fight against sexual harassment within the film industry - which meant hair and make-up had to work harder than ever. From elegant up-dos, braids, layers, waves, and ponytails, hair was the star of the show in many ways.
Retro-styling featured again with Dakota Johnson’s 60s-inspired textured ponytail. Think Jane Birkin for inspiration with slightly backcombed hair pulled into a casual pony. Ombre waves upped the glamour ante here. Your stylist can advise on what shades will work best with your skin tone and natural hair colour, but adding ombre or highlights can really lift a style. Sarah Jessica Parker showed the way with gorgeous blonde highlights for a soft, sun-kissed look. If you have fine hair, adding layers of colour can create a thicker, more textured look.
A few familiar faces at the star-studded event had some great looks that can easily translate into special occasion style, even for those of us unlikely to be stepping out on a red carpet any time soon! Claire Foy’s recent pixie crop may be a million miles away from her Queen Elizabeth styling on The Crown, but her super-short cut looked chic and stylish - wearing it slicked back just added to the dramatic effect. Simply by slicking back your normal style, adding more volume or changing your parting - wearing it centre
Create an Elegant Up-Do Your stylist will be able to create the perfect look for any occasion and will be happy to advise on what might work best with a particular outfit, but here are a few tips if you want to try and recreate the look yourself at home.
or much lower to one side - can give your everyday look a completely new feel. so it’s worth experimenting. For those who want to hold on to longer hair, the lob is a lovely versatile cut that suits most hair types and face shapes. Not as short as a bob, it offers plenty of flexibility when you want to change things up for a special
strand and wrap it around your bun, securing it in place with hairgrips. If your hair isn’t long or thick enough, all you need is a braided hairpiece in place of the natural plait - there are lots of great ones on the market. 5 Finally, for a glossy finish, spritz your hair with a touch of shine spray.
1 To start with, your hair should be smooth and tangle free. After washing, make sure you use a detangling spray before drying your hair, something like SheaMoisture’s Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler. Then, create a deep side parting and dry your hair. (If it’s curly, blow-dry it with a large round brush to smooth the hair out.)
4 Now all you need to do is plait the loose
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Long, loose waves For an alternative to the more formal updo, loose waves can look super-glam yet effortless. 1 Start by spritzing your hair with a texturising spray while it’s still damp with something like SheaMoisture Fruit Fusion Coconut Water Weightless Texture Spray, which controls frizz and leaves hair manageable. Blow-dry hair with your head down to ensure you have a lot of volume, then create a middle parting. 2 Use the wide part of a curling wand for loose curls and curl your hair. Keep the strands you are curling nice and thick. As you don’t want the locks to be too defined, run your fingers through them while hair is still warm.
2 Straighten your hair, starting as close to the roots as possible and slick your hair down to your head while hair is still warm to minimise volume. Spray your hairbrush with a little bit of hairspray and run it through your hair, which works wonders when you want that smoothed-down effect without any flyaways or rogue baby hairs sticking out. 3 Pull your hair back and tie it as tightly as possible at the nape of your neck, leaving about a quarter of it loose at the side of your ponytail, which you will use to plait. Then twist your ponytail around your finger until it becomes a bun and secure it with hairgrips. My tip is to spray the grips lightly with hairspray just before securing them and they will stay in place all night.
Up-dos are always popular and will always be associated with glamour. Stranger Things star Millie Bobby Brown gave her up do a twist by adding plaits and twisting it into a knot on the top of her head. If your hair is long enough, braids can add extra interest to the classic up-do.
3 For a messier look, can curl the strands in alternate directions, which is a great trick to get effortless-looking beachy waves. Finally, spritz the lengths with a matte hair spray or a texturizing spray, for a more casual finish. Now you are ready to go out and have a great evening - red carpet style!
Loose waves can look super-glam yet effortless Hair: Raquel Saiz
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FROM MEDUSA FAME TEAM
Opera-loving, boundary-busting Peter Mellon is determined to make his mark on British hairdressing from his Edinburgh base. Already well-versed in stage and photographic work, he recently moved much closer to his goal by winning a muchcoveted place on the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Fame Team.
TH E BI G A NN O UCE ME NT The Fellowship Christmas lunch is legendary, but not being part of that scene I’d never been before. It was amazing just to be in the same room as all my heroes. But it was super-stressful waiting to hear the results. Then, suddenly they were making the announcement. They read out three of the winners and I just thought, well, that’s that, then I heard my own name. I couldn’t believe it. I’d dreamed of winning for so long and I’d got it!
THE N A I L -BI T I N G FAM E T E AM F I N AL S PETE R ON FE L LOWS H I P S TAG E 2 017 It took months of planning and practice to get me to the finals of the Fame Team, which took place on the Fellowship stage at Salon International in October. It is probably the most popular stage in the whole exhibition and always mobbed, but there wasn’t even standing room for the Fame Team final and I was so nervous on stage my hands where shaking. The judges were really positive afterwards, but it was still a long and agonising wait until the announcement made at the Fellowship Christmas lunch in December.
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FI RS T TI ME ON TH E COUC H The Fellowship has organised some amazing events in the UK, too, like being on stage at Pro Hair Live. But we kicked off on the couch with a meet-the-key-people session. Our mentor for the year, Nick Irwin, was there, plus Fellowship president Karine Jackson and Babyliss creative director Andreas Stavrou. We will be doing a photoshoot in spring where the brief is to create a captivating and memorable collection that will excite and showcase our talent. It is to be abstract in the extreme with no holds barred. Right up my street.
WE A RE GO I N G TO AUS T R AL I A!! January also included the first ever meeting of the new Fame Team. What a great crowd. And I found out on this day that Iâ€™m going to Australia with them in the summer, courtesy of Babyliss. OMG! I am so excited.
IN T H E SA LON - M E D USA CO LOUR C LUB 1&2 The Fame Team is going to help me develop my session skills, but Iâ€™m also going to use it as much as possible to build my salon clientele. This was the busiest January of my career. My local paper, the Edinburgh Evening News, did a spread on me so new clients have been clamouring for appointments. I also had to plan and prepare for the Medusa Colour Club, an idea Kim, owner of Medusa Grassmarket, and I came up with to educate the huge Medusa family (70-plus people) about new colour techniques and shades. We plan to hold these every couple of months. But the most exciting news was that we have secured the premises for a fifth Medusa and I am going to be co-owner. A new phase of my life is beginning.
BA BY LI SS G O OD I E S Our instructions for the day included bringing a huge, empty suitcase. We found out why. Andreas showed us the pile of Babyliss goodies they were giving us. It included everything. Thank you, Babyliss.
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CUT A BOVE There have also been developments beyond (and because of) Fame Team. I bought my first pair of Yoi scissors as an assistant more than 10 years ago and I’ve been using them ever since, so when importer Colin Simpson invited me to be his ambassador, I jumped at it. He gave me a whole new set, which is beautiful.
IN TH E MOOD Nick wants us to hit the ground running, so in February we all headed to London for two days. First up was presentation training from the illustrious Simon Shaw. We had to present a look and moodboard. My mannequin had a short fringe and long curls, but the curls were a wig which I removed to show how women like to make a dramatic leap sometimes with their hair.
SE E I N G TH E SA LONS OF TH E G RE ATS I’m going to use my Fame Team time to do more than improve my techniques and presentation; I’m also keen to see other top salons for inspiration for my own salon. The February trip to London included a visit to meet Errol Douglas at his gorgeous salon. I want my salon to have that same boutique feel.
LIK E A K I D I N A SW E E T I E S H OP The Fellowship scheduled a visit to a Salon Services, where we got to help ourselves to anything we wanted. It was all there, everything I needed to kit out my new salon, and the Salon Services team were just giving it to me. I kept saying they’d given me enough but then they’d find something else I needed and insist I take it. I was speechless over their generosity. I’m still in shock, actually.
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I NSPI RATI O N FRO M E RROL At the end of our session with Errol he gave us what are the last four copies of the Infringe book which he’s inscribed with a motivational message. Errol is incredible – so inspirational. I will treasure this book forever.
The Hair Extension Holder Introducing the fabulous new way to work with hair extentions from Easiweft.
Use the Easiweft in the salon to assist when fitting all hair extension types including wefts, tapes, pre bonded extensions and micro rings. Use the suction cups to attach the Easiweft to the back wash to colour, tone and wash extensions. The Easiweft will save you an hour on refits, keep your work station tidy and minimise stress throughout fitting! You will wonder what you ever did without it! As a professional hair extensionist I find the Easiweft a valuable piece of equipment. It truly is a handy piece of kit, great for holding wefts, individuals, hair pieces and tools plus styling of clip-ins. When fitting extensions its like another pair of hands holding the hair ready to be fitted. I cant recommend the easiweft enough! Amazing customer service too and very quick postage. Reviewed by Mark Taylor
easiweft.com SalonNV Magazine | 69
Extreme Hair Wars
ove over Game of Thrones. There’s a new show to chat about around the water cooler. And for hairdressers it offers a special kind of inspiration, encouraging its participants to dive into the more fantastical and eccentric parts of their imagination.
ideas to materialise into fantastic hair and there’s still lots of work to be done.”
Extreme Hair Wars pits talented stylists against each other in a variety of bizarre challenges that will test their hairdressing skills to the very limit and in ways they could never have expected. With expert gravitas coming in the shape of the two judges, Martyn Holmes, creative director of Strangeways, and Robert Masciave, owner of Metropolis Hairdressing, it’s a show that combines technical excellence with outlandish creativity – which naturally makes for great entertainment.
“Maybe not in the salon,” he laughs. “But hopefully it sparks something inside them that makes them want to be creative. This is what brought me into hairdressing, using my hands, building with hair, playing with wefts, gluing things together almost like arts and crafts – that’s what drew me in.”
“The whole series is about the other side of hairdressing,” Martyn explains to us. “The fantastical, artistic side of hairdressing that no one gets to see or play with.”
As well as bringing out the artistic flair of current hairdressers, both Robert and Martyn were at pains to stress how important it was to bring the next generation of hairdressers into the business. It’s the reason why 5Star, with its large 18-30 demographic was seen as the perfect station for Extreme Hair Wars.
This isn’t a show about everyday salon life, the team wanted to create something aspirational, something that would inspire both creativity and conversation – a Bake Off for hair. For Robert, Extreme Hair Wars is a chance to increase the number of hairdressers taking creative risks. “We think the whole industry is very creative but we still have work to do,” he says. “One aspect the show highlighted is that some were lacking in preparation and dedication behind the scenes. People tend to think it’s all about having the idea, but for me that’s only the beginning. There’s a process behind it for those
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With some of the hairstyles featured on Extreme Hair Wars venturing into seriously weird and wacky territory, does Martyn expect to see many hairdressers doing them Monday to Friday?
Robert says: “Having hairdressing on TV is a good thing. It doesn’t have to be exactly the way the business is – it can show
the fun side of it, the artistic side of it, and that will help attract young people.” “At the moment our industry is struggling to get newbies in,” agrees Martyn. “It’s hard to get apprentices and I’m hoping this show might inspire some to think that there’s a lot more to it than little old granny shops because that’s how they feel sometimes. I hope this inspires a new generation.” With Martyn receiving praise regarding the show from hairdressers to builders, it’s clear it has mass appeal, but Robert admits they have had some negative feedback from hairdressers who feel it doesn’t offer a true representation of the craft – a slightly unfair criticism of a TV show perhaps… “There were people complaining on social media that it isn’t portraying the industry accurately. This is not supposed to be a documentary about hairdressing! Feedback has been positive from younger people and the general public who see it as a fun show.” While the show has proved popular, it’s still up in the air whether we’ll be seeing Martyn and Robert back for a second series. In the meantime both are concentrating their efforts on education. Martyn has been focusing his work on going into schools to work with the kids one-on-one and really inspire them. While Robert is continuing to teach avant garde haircutting and is set to launch a new pair of ergonomically designed scissors that will help people who suffer from back, shoulder, or wrist injuries.
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Fudge Professional Clean Blonde Violet Shampoo & Conditioner by Josie Smith
or years I’ve been abusing my naturally blonde locks – you name it: bleach, all manner of highlights, toners, colour changing shampoos, endless backcombing into my favoured beehive style… The list is endless.
My hair has come through these years of torment looking not bad considering, but there’s always room for improvement and as the years advance and my hair changes with age, it’s my colour and condition that I have to pay the most attention to. The advantage of being blonde, of course, is that it’s so much easier to mask the appearance of those alarming strands of silvery grey now making a guest star appearance on my scalp. However, the fair headed amongst you out there will understand the importance of toning shampoos and conditioners. Brassy, orange streaks and lacklustre, dull, yellowy hues can all too easily appear if you’re not using hair products that help protect and sustain your colour in between visits to your hairdresser. I’ve always found specialist shampoos and conditioners a bit hit or miss. Some years ago, some of the big hairdressing names formulated and started marketing specific ‘Blonde’ and ‘Brunette’ daily shampoos, but I never thought they seemed to make that much of an impact on my own tresses. I always preferred the slightly stronger purple and violet toning products that you used a few times a week/month to get rid of yellowy tones. (I always seem to find the best ones in random chemists?) They make a big difference, but God forbid you get engrossed in a phone conversation or lost in a decent novel whilst soaking in the bath after application. At worst you’ll end up with a lilac rinse and some interesting staining akin to bruising on your fingers. Not a good look. Ergo, my mixed experiences made me a little unsure of what to make of Fudge’s new neutralising blonde products.
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First I tried the new shampoo – ‘Fudge Clean Blonde Violet Shampoo’. It claims to be the ideal shampoo to neutralise and cleanse while removing unwanted yellow and brassy tones from blonde hair. As usual you just apply it to wet hair and lather evenly and leave it for up to five minutes, then rinse well. Obviously, they want you to follow that with ‘Fudge Clean Blonde Violet Conditioner’ for optimum results. The conditioner’s hydrating formula targets and removes yellow and brassy tones from blonde hair, while smoothing hair for a perfectly even finish. It’s safe to use on colour-treated hair too of course. Again, you just apply it to wet hair, lather evenly and leave for up to five minutes. Fudge do helpfully warn you to avoid contact with skin and other absorbent material, even encouraging you to use gloves if possible as staining can occur. Happily, I can report even though these products will stain you a bit if you’re not careful, they are definitely worth a try. I feel the range has more modern, more technically proficient products than some of the more old-school purple/violet shampoos and conditioners I’ve previously favoured. More importantly, the conditioner is a good detangler – which all the follicly challenged blondes out there will understand the importance of. It’s a bit pricier than I’d normally like to spend, (the shampoo and conditioner are approx. £10 each) but then they are not products I’ll be using on an everyday basis. So, if you’re looking for a refreshing and conditioning treatment to brighten your blonde locks, give the shampoo and conditioner a try. As a finishing touch, I also like the range’s styling spray for blonde hair. ‘Clean Blonde Violet Tri-Blo’ protects and enhances, and will help banish brassy tones whilst you dry your hair - protecting it from heat damage and creating a strong, shiny finish. For full details on all of Fudge’s product range go to www.fudgeprofessional.com
SEE CHANGE THE POWER OF PRO-COLLAGEN The ultimate anti-ageing range from ELEMIS
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Hair: Angelo Seminara Hair Assistants: Yoko Kurokawa, Chihiro Meifuku, Minako Yoshida, Hyung Wook Ko Photography: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Laura Dominique Styling: Niccolo Torelli Products: Davines – Using Your Hair Assistant
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HJâ€™s 2017 British Hairdresser of the Year Sally Brooks, Brooks & Brooks, London Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Milly Simon Photography: Jenny Hands
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HJâ€™s 2017 British Hairdresser of the Year Sally Brooks, Brooks & Brooks, London Make-up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling: Milly Simon Photography: Jenny Hands
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Le chic Ă la franĂ§aise
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Creative Director: Neil Smith Hair: Eufora Editorial Team 2017 Make-up: Roseanna Velin Photography: Dan Thomas
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Published on Mar 9, 2018