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Hell Sexy by Thomas Hills AESTHETICS

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BEAUTY

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NAILS

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AUTUMN/WINTER

28

HAIRDRESSING

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TANNING


3AM | Ken Picton 3am Is the aftermath of a high society YSL mansion party, where each image tells its own story and is powerful in its use of graphic shape and texture. We wanted the hair to be exaggerated and extreme, but remaining cool and current and still beautiful.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Andrew O’Toole MAKEUP

Kylie O’Toole STYLING

Ella Murphy HAIR

Ken Picton & Zoe Williams PRODUCTS

L’Oréal Professional


Resurgence of Baroque in the 21st Century | Juanmy Medialdea The collection was created to meet the demands of the 21st century woman, a contemporary woman who desires elaborate hairstyles, that also adds strength and character. We wanted to revive the forms and lines of the Baroque period, adapting them to modern times and creating hairstyles that contribute to the empowerment of women.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Sonja Inselmann MAKEUP

Luisa Machen STYLIST & HAIR

Juanmy Medialdea MODELS

Esmerelda, Sheila & Hawa


GHD Modern Punk | Daniel Dragotta The looks, which are inspired not only by the catwalks but also by the fashion events of London, are dynamic and original. An unbelievable collection of daring cuts and vivid colors as an expression of the individual creativity of Daniele Dragotta, who lives with extreme sophistication and his love to detailed work! The cool mix of the collection is urban, non–compliant and high–tech at the same time, and reflects the artist’s unique talent and his outstanding technical know–how.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Sascha Heubold MAKEUP

Janine Bohn FASHION

Doreen Kipping HAIR

Daniele Dragotta


Gray | Rafael Bueno Peluqueros Expanding on their previous collection by accentuating the shapes, lines, volumes and textures, GRAY is the union of black and white, the main colours featured in this collection. A sweet and noble white that contrasts with the power and strength of the darkest black. A chromatic binomial that enhances the versatility of the GRAY collection, a collection that has been produced for the modern woman.

PHOTOGRAPHY & RETOUCH

Edu Gomez MAKEUP

Lulu PĂŠrez STYLIST

Xisco Morales HAIR

Rafael Bueno Pelequeros HAIR ASSISTANT

Moyses Utrera MODELS

Mariam Agredano, Diana Arbuzova & Anna Zarechnova PRODUCTS

Revlon Professional & Elegance Hair Extensions


HELL SEXY | TH1 A bold execution of female power, the twelve stunning bondage–and dominatrix–inspired images showcase diverse hairdressing techniques and textures, for looks that empower. PHOTOGRAPHY

Richard Miles MAKEUP

Claire DeGraft STYLIST

Bernard Connolly HAIR

Thomas Hills


Street Style | Indola It’s warm clothes and warm colours for this year’s autumn and winter trends–In Check and Retro Modern. In Check combines traditional patterns such as tartan and houndstooth with loud autumnal colour palettes creating a playful twist on traditionalism. Retro Modern harks back to the 1960s, so ask your mum if she still has any turtlenecks or cardigans in her closet. The style is about looking back to move forward with pixie cuts and coffee and chocolate colours.

STYLIST

Christopher Maul HAIR

Andy Smith & Paddy McDougall PRODUCTS

Indola Permanent Caring Color & Color Shampoo


De Stijl | Mayte Garrote The inspiration for this collection comes from the artistic movement De Stijl that emerged in the Netherlands around 1917. The followers fundamentally believed in the attainment of purity in all disciplines, for which they ventured into the use of horizontal and vertical lines using the primary colours blue, yellow and red. The basis of this collection is a commitment to the fusion of the arts. Applied to the hair by integrating shapes, textures and volumes with pantones of intensely vibrant colours.


PHOTOGRAPHY

David Arnal MAKEUP

Jose Luis Blasco STYLIST

Visori FashionArt HAIR

Mayte Garrote MODELS

Eva Larrosa, Charlotte Braum, Sandra Valero & Paula Laguarda


Editor’s Comment Much like our brother publication, BarberNV, we’ve undergone an incredible makeover we know you’re going to love. But SalonNV is more than just a pretty face. We’ve packed this issue with tons of fashion, makeup, hair, aesthetic and salon content to inspire. Turn to page 30 where we caught up with some of the incredible winners from this year’s SHABAs. Salon International is the jewel in the crown that is the UK hair and beauty calendar. Full of inspiration from brands, educators and stage shows that you can use to spin into gold for your salon. If you’re still itching for inspiration, on page 44 we have a rundown of our favourite Salon International stage shows. The world is in dire straights and salons are looking for eco–friendly alternatives. We have some fantastic eco–content including an introduction to UK brand, Moo Hair (page 54) and pollution solutions from ghd (page 56). For those seeking a different career path, on page 38 we spoke with Hackney Hair Club owner and Pulp Riot educator Tegan Robertson, about how it feels to work with clients out of her home. And on page 34 world–class educator and cool kid Dale Ted Watkins, spoke to us about where he envisions male grooming in a post–skin fade world. Before signing off, I want to thank all of the stylists, MUAs, aesthetic practitioners, educators, brands and backers who have featured in our pages—we wouldn’t have made it this far without you. We hope you enjoy the new look and feel. If you have any news, product launches, collections and hair and beauty tips, send it to us at joannereid@salonnv.co.uk or matthew@salonnv.co.uk. Thank you for the support. JR

20 NEWS IN BRIEF 24 THE FELLOWSHIP 28 SHABA 2019 32 DALE TED WATKINS 36 THE HACKNEY HAIR CLUB 40 INGLOT STEP–BY–STEP 42 SALON INTERNATIONAL 46 NAILS STEP–BY–STEP 48 LIGHTING SPECIAL 52 INSTAGRAM SHOWCASE

54 HAIR & THE ENVIRONMENT 58 SS20—PAULA KNORR 60 IT’S A 10! 62 TAOH 66 PRODUCT ENVY 76 SALON SPOTLIGHT 81 COLUMNS 84 TRAINING DATES 86 NEW TO E–CHAIR 88 IN THE CHAIR

Founder & Editor–in–Chief | Joanne Reid

Copyright | All work in this publication is copyright of SalonNV Magazine and

Lead Writer | Matthew McLaughlin

Gallus Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced

Graphic Design | Gary Kwok

without the permission of the publisher.

Sales & Marketing Manager | Kat Heron

© Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some

Assistant Writer | Siobhan Macdonald & Lisa Boyle

products may not be available in all stores.

Columnists | Gemma Willock–Smith, Michael Moran & Emil McMahon

Thanks to | The Fellowship of British Hairdressing, Salon International, AJC

Published by | Gallus Print & Digital Media, 1st Floor, 27 Woodside Place,

93, Jools PR, Pickle PR, UK International, Seven Publicity, Essence PR, Trace

Glasgow G3 7QL

Publicity, DFF Solutions and Dreamscometrue.

Email | contact@salonnv.co.uk Tel | +44 (0) 141 212 5525


20New study finds hair & beauty clients News in Brief

E S T I M AT E D

50,000

want mandatory industry regulation Legally, there is no minimum qualification requirement to work in the UK hair and beauty industry. But a recent survey by The British Association of Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology (BABTAC) revealed that client opinion appears to favour regulation of some kind in the industry.

SALONS

AND

300,000 SALON EMPLOYEES I N T H E U K

When there is no minimum professional standard to be met, it is unnerving to think that anything from routine (such as waxing and lash extensions) to advanced (such as laser, micropigmentation and skin needling) treatments can cause serious harm and have severe consequences if performed incorrectly.

Only

(a third)

Many clients simply assume that practitioners in the hair and beauty industry are correctly trained and insured.

38%

are aware of the current lack of regulation in the beauty industry.

Over

87%

(a third)

believe that beauty therapists should be trained & qualified to practice in the UK. believe that regulation within the sector should be mandatory.

82%

36%

don’t even know if their therapist is even insured.

85%

would be concerned if their therapist was not properly trained, qualified and insured.

*survey conducted by Onepoll among 2,000 respondents who visit therapists & salons— March 2019

Lesley Blair, chair at BABTAC says, “Members of the public that we speak to are genuinely shocked to find that a sector performing such personal care is totally unregulated. The beauty industry is one of the only personal care industries not regulated in the UK, giving rise to an increasing number of issues across the sector, including high rates of human trafficking, consumer safety concerns and regular scrutiny

of professionalism from outside the industry. Whilst there are many brilliant, qualified, verified and insured therapists out there, the survey highlights extensive demand for regulation from the general public, so it’s high time that the industry pulls together to make this happen. The outcome will be positive for all—better standards, higher quality training and client peace of mind.”

NORTH OF ENGLAND

Victoria Lynch wins Tees Businesswomen Awards 2019 Last month, the Tees Valley business community came together to celebrate outstanding leading women from the region with their second Tees Businesswomen Awards 2019, where Additional Lengths owner, Victoria Lynch, scooped the SME of the Year. Starting Additional Lengths from her bedroom in 2003, Victoria Lynch is a hair extensionist first and has used her skills to build her business and develop hair extensions into a £7m business in the heart of Stockton. Additional Lengths distributes hair extensions and other hair products all around the world with a small team, 95% of which are women. Creating the luxury hair extension brand Remi Cachet, enabled Victoria to reach new stylists and she is proud of how this has grown organically and from stylists recommending the hair for its quality. They strive to bring innovative products to market and recognising the need for

STATISTICS PROVIDED BY BABTAC / ILLUSTRATIONS FROM SHUTTERSTOCK / IMAGES FROM AJC 93 PR

greater eco credentials, they have introduced hair recycling and 100% recyclable packaging to new launches. Talking after her win, Victoria thanked her management team who had nominated her originally and continued “I love the fact that this is recognising women. I feel, from a professional level, men get a lot of recognition as business leaders, and women have the fight and determination to actually be here, be on that stage and operate some really good businesses. I think this is brilliant to champion women whatever their business sector.” An avid campaigner for the local high street to support the Additional Lengths shop and separate salon, Victoria works on The Stockton Bid, as well as campaigning for higher standards within the hair extension industry. Victoria was also runner up for the Business of the Year award at the luxury Wynard Hall night, joined by her team.


21 SOUTH OF ENGLAND

Mynewhair charity dog walk raises thousands Renowned British celebrity hairdresser Trevor Sorbie MBE led a charity dog walk in his local town in aid of his pioneering medical hair loss charity mynewhair. ‘Walkies for mynewhair’ saw over 80 people and their pooches from across Hampshire embark on a one–mile walk along Gosport’s Stokes Bay Beach promenade on Sunday, September 29 to support people suffering hair loss from cancer or alopecia. Trevor and his wife Carole took the lead with Lisbon, the couple’s 19–month–old King Charles Cavalier. Trevor said, “I can’t thank everyone enough who despite the wet weather took part and our amazing event supporters for making Walkies for mynewhair such a fantastic fundraiser. “mynewhair isn’t just about hair, it’s psychological medicine for people suffering from hair loss through illness and for many people it’s the missing link in their treatment. “The funds raised by Walkies for mynewhair, which was over £2,000, will help the charity to support those affected by cancer or alopecia across the UK and Ireland.” Trevor lives in Gosport and last year converted a room in his home where he offers a free wig–customisation service primarily to cancer patients undergoing chemotherapy in Hampshire and the surrounding areas. Trevor added, “I’m world–famous, but mynewhair means more to me. God gave me a gift and I’ve used it pretty well up until now. “This is perhaps the most important part of that gift and I’m using it to help people. “My wife and I have tried to make the room homely—not like a salon but somewhere comfortable, reassuring. I want each client to feel in safe hands.” Trevor began mynewhair in 2006, in memory of his sister–in– law Jackie, who lost her hair during chemotherapy for bone cancer and is the only national charity dedicated to providing information, advice and support to people experiencing medical hair loss. The pioneering charity supports and trains a network of over 800 independent salons and 1,000 trained hair professionals across the UK and Ireland, all providing a wig–customisation service for their clients. • Find out more at mynewhair.org or follow on Twitter @mynewhairorg, Facebook @mynewhair and Instagram @mynewhairorg. You can also donate to the charity by texting MYNH00 followed by the amount you wish to donate, to 70070.

IMAGES FROM MYNEWHAIR & HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY

NATIONWIDE

Leading hair industry charity rebranded to increase visibility The official charity of the hair industry, The Hairdressers’ Charity has announced its new name and rebrand to Hair & Beauty Charity. With a heritage dating back to 1853, the charity continues to help industry professionals. The rename will expand the charity’s visibility to incorporate the full spectrum of hair, barbering and beauty industries, which it already assists. The charity relies on corporate sponsors but would love to hear from further hair and beauty brands interested in supporting the organisation. The current financial sponsors include L’Oreal Professionnel, Wella Professionals, Salon Services, ghd, Schwarzkopf, Goldwell, A.S.P, BaByliss PRO and NHF/NBF. Fundraising from hair and beauty professionals is also vital to sourcing much–needed income and increasing awareness of the charity. There are many ways you can support— making a regular donation, organising your own fundraiser or signing up to one of a wide variety of annual events, such as bike rides, dedicated fundraising weeks, charity balls and raffles. Co–president of Hair & Beauty Charity, Samantha Grocutt from Essence PR said, “This rebrand is a natural progression for us since we became a nationally–recognised charity in 2016. “We have always supported those in the beauty and barbering industries and now it helps to clarify our focus.” Philip Sharp from A.S.P and co–president of Hair & Beauty Charity continued, “Our mission is to help hair and beauty professionals in need. “We offer financial support to individuals and their families facing difficult times due to unforeseen circumstances such as illness, bereavement and financial hardship. “Our beneficiaries are supported with regular payments or one–off grants to make their lives a little easier.” • For more information on how to donate, fundraise or support the Hair and Beauty Charity, please visit hairandbeautycharity. org, call 01234 831888 or email info@ hairandbeautycharity.org


22

News in Brief

NATIONWIDE

Student of the Year winners announced at Salon International The Hair and Barber Council held its Student of the Year competition at Salon International last month, with the winners announced live on the HJ stage. Seven finalists for Level 2 and six finalists for Level 3 recreated their looks live in the competition area, in front of a judging panel made up of the chancellor for the Fellowship for British Hairdressing Ashleigh Hodges, Yesmin O’Brien from Seanhanna and Junior Council member Niall McNulty. Competitors were given 50 minutes to recreate the look they entered earlier this year—with the chance to win a day with Cos Sakkas from TONI&GUY, a day with Andrew Barton of Headmasters and will appear in the next issue of the Hair and Barber Magazine. Hair and Beauty Council CEO and registrar, Keith Conniford said, “We are delighted with the level of entries received this year and amazed by the quality of hairdressing by the students taking part. “It’s important for us to support future stylists of the industry and ensure they are aware of the importance of the state registrar for hairdressers and barbers to keep the industry professional and raise the perception of the industry.”

Level 2 WINNER

Leah Knapman | Cheshire College South and West FINALISTS

Bethany Farrel | North Lindsey College Zac Gabrel | Central Hair London Elisa Sayer | City College Norwich Radost Staykova | Edinburgh College Rachel Thomson | Edinburgh College Samantha Wheeler | Metropolis Hairdressing, Kingston–upon–Thames Level 3 WINNER

Jessica Robinson | Central Hair London FINALIST

Calista Barnett | Muse Creative Hair, Broadway Megan Beardsley | Positive Approach Academy Tayla Fawcett | Positive Approach Academy India Fleming | West Suffolk College Lucy Ellen Thompson | Mack Hairdressing, Chelmsford

MIDLANDS

Nanokeratin & Alan Howard surprise salon owners with new car Salon International 2019 was filled with news from some of the industry’s biggest names, demonstrations from up-and-coming stylists and a whole host of surprises. However, the biggest was for Lee Jones-Nash and Rob White, the owners of three stunning Midlands-based salons, who couldn’t quite believe the announcement of winning a fabulous Mazda MX5. As the exclusive UK distributor of Nanokeratin System, Alan Howard Ltd collaborated with the innovative hair brand on this yearlong competition. Originally launched at Salon International 2018, haircare professionals were entered into a lucrative prize draw when purchasing any intro kit or litre of Nanokeratin from the Stockport–based wholesaler. Hundreds of products were sold and multiple ticket holders entered, right up until the live draw at Salon International 2019. Jayne Lewis-Orr, executive director of Hairdressers Journal Magazine, created a buzz as she drew the winning ticket at this year’s exhibition and announced the lucky winners. The Mazda MX5 convertible, worth £26,000, was personally delivered to the two salon owners in Warwick, at one of Naswhite’s three salon locations—due to celebrate the 10th anniversary of opening their first salon. The prize was presented by Paul Brooks, national sales manager, and Adam Tudor, senior marketing manager. Lee and Rob, who have been using Nanokeratin System for many years, were overwhelmed with the incredible prize, from a brand they truly believe in. They announced, “We were so shocked to have won this amazing prize, we never win anything so it really was a bolt from the blue when we got the call. “Nanokeratin’s performance and results always impress our clients and keep them returning to us for smoothing services time and time again.” • For more info, visit alanhoward.co.uk or email nanokeratinsystem@ alanhoward.co.uk.

ILLUSTRATIONS FROM SHUTTERSTOCK / IMAGES FROM HAIR & BARBER COUNCIL & NANOKERATIN


The New Beauty Economy A study by the British Beauty Council and Oxford Economics, looking at the impact of the hair and beauty industry on the UK economy, provides useful information for salon owners to make the most of their business’ resources. What kind of talent is coming into the hair and beauty industry? VOCATIONAL BEAUTY QUALIFICATIONS ACHIEVED IN 2018 (FROM TOTAL OF 65,550)

28%

24%

Hairdressing (18,310)

1%

LEVEL OF QUALIFICATIONS ACHIEVED IN 2018 (FROM TOTAL OF 65,550)

Entry level (675)

Beauty (15,840)

23%

Multi–disciplinary (14,950)

13%

Level 1 (8,375)

What are they studying in uni?

56%

Level 2 (36,625)

9%

8%

Nail care (5,585)

29%

6%

Barbering (5,320)

Level 3 (19,285)

Makeup (4,370)

2%

Other (1,170)

1%

Level 4 (590)

What about digital influencers? Can they help your business? 75%

Theatrical makeup (460)

9%

In 2019, more than 2,768 influencers can be seen as having ‘industry presence’ in hair and beauty.

General makeup (460)

Only 4%

1,305 studying beauty–related degree in 2017/18

(108 out of 2,768) have over

1 million

followers on social media.

610 in first year

8%

Salon management (48)

7%

Spa management (43)

Over 60%

have fewer

than 50,000 followers on social media.

ILLUSTRATIONS FROM SHUTTERSTOCK / STATISTICS FROM BRITISH BEAUTY COUNCIL

23


24

ClubStar Art Team 2020 Announced The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has announced the eight stylists who will make up their 2020 ClubStar Art Team, following a day of judging. The newly–formed team will go on to enjoy a full year of opportunity and education, packed to the brim with inspirational training days from leading industry names. Karoliina Saunders will also be joining the new ClubStar team as team leader, where she will plan the year, provide mentorship and help develop the stylists. As a business owner, session stylist, educator and long–time Fellowship member, Karoliina regularly takes part in events and education evenings. Karoliina will succeed Simon Tuckwell, who ran the team for three years and has played a decisive role in shaping the team into what it is today. Auditions for the ClubStar Art Team are open to any aged 16–25 ClubStar member of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. This year’s team enjoyed educational days with names including Jonathan Andrew, Ashley Gamble, Jamie Benny and Karine Jackson, covering shoots, barbering, presentation skills and session work.

Why should you join the Fellowship?

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing was founded in 1946 as the Fellowship of Hair Artists of Great Britain and over the years has grown in stature and now covers many areas of the professional hairdressing industry. We are an independent, non-political organisation run by our members, for our members focussing on promoting artistic and creative quality, and providing support for future hairdressing talent keen to make their own mark in the industry. Fellowship membership is the gateway to so many opportunities, our members love to share ideas with like–minded people and this is just a very brief overview of what membership can bring you, your team and your brand.

ClubStar Art Team 2020 Sam Arnold | Strangeways Jack Anthony | KH Hair Nottingham Jordy Barlow | Karoliina Saunders Hair Design Darcey Clarke | Ashley Gamble Ella Gray | Chair Salons Andrew Plester | Hare and Bone Lee Patrick Devlin | Paul Watts Hair Emy Roccabella | Danilo Hair Boutique Team leader | Karoliina Saunders

 Kudos of belonging to the most creative hairdressing organisation in the UK  Promotion of your brand through Fellowship social media  Inspirational workshops on both practical and business  Regional Hair & Vision events with practical demonstrations of the latest trends and techniques  Opportunities to present on Fellowship stages, from Members’ Nights, Colour Nights to major industry exhibitions nationwide  Access to Fellowship teams: F.A.M.E. Team, ClubStar Art Team, Colour Project, Project X & Barber Project  Networking events, mingle with the very best in the industry Visit fellowshiphair.com to find out more.


Introducing The Knowledge Education is at the heart of everything the Fellowship for British Hairdressing does, with opportunities for masterclasses, mentorships and shows—there are plenty of ways to stay on top of your game. Now, the Fellowship is branching out with an exciting new launch—The Knowledge. The Knowledge is accessible, free to all members and boasts a library of educational and inspirational content from leading industry names—with more to come. The initiative has been spearheaded by digital project leader and former Fellowship chairperson, Jo Martin and produced with Clive Silver of CS Media. Now, education is no longer restricted to live shows, you can learn from hairdressers you admire in your own time and at your own pace. With three categories of content—Inspiration, Education and Innovation—there’s something for everyone, with new content added weekly.

Within Inspiration, you can find exciting mini– documentaries covering the diverse world of hairdressing—from BTS shoot access to what it takes to put together a stage show. In Education, it’s all about getting hands–on and learning techniques, tips and tricks to create looks from some of the Fellowship’s most iconic members. Finally, Innovation features insightful interviews with industry game–changers, explaining how to make it in all aspects of the industry. “We know that hairdressers are passionate about education,” says Fellowship president Ken Picton. “But we also recognise that time, money and location can hinder access to training. “With The Knowledge, we are providing education from world–class hairdressers in a way that’s accessible no matter where you are in the world. “There are no time or date restrictions on this education; all that you need is a Fellowship membership to log in and view at all. “This is the way that education needs to go, and we’re proud to be bringing it to a wider audience in an accessible way.” ○ Hairdressing education has moved on, and so have we—visit fellowshiphair.com to tune in to The Knowledge or to sign up and become a member.


26

Ne–Go | Ulises Peluqueros NE–GO is more than just a hairstyle collection—we wanted to create something that was very conceptual. The four images carry the potential of colour in their DNA. Forms and textures inspired by Yellowstone National Park. Vivid colours that are produced by bacteria and other extremophiles that live in the hot waters of the park.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Esteban Roca MAKEUP

Manuela Giménez STYLIST

Ulises Pelegueros HAIR

Cristo Rodríguez Alonso PRODUCTS

Revlon Professional


28

SHABA19 | MEDUSA SALON DOUBLE WIN – BEST MALE & FEMALE STYLIST

Dual victory for the vanguard

A19 in #SHAB rd... one wo

G RIFYIN ELECT

As the newest addition to Medusa’s line–up, it is an incredible achievement for the Stockbridge salon to produce not just one but both winners of the Best Stylist categories at this year’s Scottish Hair & Beauty awards. (from left) Peter’s Mellon’s entries for Best Male Stylist; Peter Mellon of Medusa Stockbridge; examples of Kat Sloan’s entries for Best Female Stylist; Kat & Peter with Colin McAndrew, managing director of Medusa; and inside Medusa.

Medusa director Peter Mellon has done incredible things throughout his career— former SalonNV columnist, Fellowship F.A.M.E Team and the Wella Generation Now team, and now a win as Best Male Stylist to top off a glittering year. HOW IS YOUR SALON? The salon is going amazing! We’ve just recruited more stylists to take on the workload that’s coming through the door. I couldn’t be happier with salon life. HOW DID IT FEEL TO WIN BEST MALE STYLIST? I couldn’t believe it! I was up against some very stiff competition, I truly did not believe I was going to win, so when my name was called, I was so shocked. HOW HAS THE RESPONSE BEEN SINCE YOU WON THE AWARD? The response has been amazing, everyone on the night came and congratulated me and the salon is buzzing with the wins! Our clients live for the awards and to come back with Best Male and Best Female Stylist is amazing. HOW WAS THE PROCESS OF PUTTING TOGETHER YOUR SHABA PORTFOLIO? The portfolio was a rollercoaster. I doubted myself to the point where a week before the deadline I done a whole new photoshoot. I woke up on the Sunday morning before the deadline anxious that what I was going to submit wasn’t good enough. So, on Sunday I

IMAGES COURTESY OF PETER MELLON

organised a new photographer, models and makeup artist and on the Tuesday, we shot and I submitted my collection three minutes before the deadline. I was having a hairy canary thinking I wasn’t going to enter it in time, but I managed and I won! WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN UP TO SINCE YOUR TIME WITH THE FELLOWSHIP’S F.A.M.E TEAM? The F.A.M.E Team was one of my biggest career highlights so far and I want to thank the Fellowship for giving me the opportunity. I am now a Wella guest artist where I teach in Manchester and London. This year I wanted to concentrate on my salon and making it the best it can be... now it’s strong, next year I know is going to be a big year. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO STYLISTS LOOKING TO ENTER NEXT YEAR’S SHABA? Just go for it! You have nothing to lose... you need to be in it to win it and if you don’t win you have some amazing images for your social media and salon. WILL YOU BE BACK NEXT YEAR TO DEFEND YOUR TITLE? 100 per cent I will be, watch this space!


29

SHABA19 | MEDUSA SALON DOUBLE WIN – BEST MALE & FEMALE STYLIST

A19 in #SHAB rd... one wo

ARY ORDIN EXTRA

Kat Sloan, creative colour expert and Medusa director, picked up Best Female Stylist at SHABA19. Writer Siobhan Macdonald spoke to her about the accolade and the post–SHABA effect. HOW DID IT FEEL TO WIN BEST FEMALE STYLIST?  It was so unexpected! It felt great to be recognised for my work. WHERE DO YOU TAKE INSPIRATION FROM WHEN IT COMES TO CREATING STYLES? I’m a colour expert and I take a lot of inspiration from things like landscape paintings, fashion trends, clothes, interior design, seasons etc. Things in everyday life inspire me to create new colours.  Also, I love seeing how other stylists in the hairdressing world create their looks.  Social media is an amazing platform for showcasing our creations. I follow lots of well–known and up– and–coming hairdressers and pull my inspiration from their work often too. I think it’s such an encouraging industry we work in and I love that we can do this. WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR FAVOURITE HAIR TRENDS OF 2019? I love how we have revamped the shag cut and the mullet and brought them right up to date and made them wearable in the 21st century. I feel these cuts are really fun to do and can really bring out the client’s personality. These cuts paired with some warm amber tones I absolutely love. Taking inspiration from the 70s, 80s and 90s and modernising them really gets me excited! HOW HAVE THINGS BEEN POST SHABA? Things post–SHABA have been great. I’m as busy as ever and I met some new hairdressers and followed them on social media and vice versa. It’s definitely helped me to get my name out there. WILL YOU BE DEFENDING YOUR TITLE NEXT YEAR?  I definitely will be.

IMAGES COURTESY OF KATRINA SLOAN & MEDUSA HAIR


30

SHABA19 | ZOE KINNEAR – BEST LASH ARTIST

Having the lash laugh Zoe Kinnear of The Powder Room, Inverness is all about lashes. SHABA’s Best Lash Artist found herself in love with lashes after having hers done by former Best Lash artist winner, Kate Baxter and now pushes herself as a Novalash brand ambassador. Having been a finalist at last year’s awards, her career drive and diligent work has made 2019 Zoe’s SHABA year! Since winning, Zoe’s phone has been off the hook and she’s been forced to close her books until Christmas.

A19 in #SHAB rd... one wo

ERING EMPOW

HOW DID IT FEEL TO WIN YOUR SHABA AWARD? I was extremely surprised. Last year I was a finalist and it was my first experience of being a finalist at something like SHABA, so I was very anxious. Honestly, it’s just nice to get nominated and to become a finalist, you get our gown and a meal on the night—to find out you’ve won is just the icing on the cake. HOW DID YOU GET INTO THE INDUSTRY? Initially, I studied HND Beauty Therapy at my local college and I honestly did it as a stop–gap—I wasn’t going to uni, I knew I had to do something so I did Beauty Therapy and I loved it. I use Novalash and they give you loads of opportunities to further your career and profile with them—I’ve been a brand ambassador for two years and having opportunities like going to trade shows, really lets you voice your delight in doing what you do. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO PEOPLE WHO ARE THINKING ABOUT ENTERING NEXT YEAR? Make sure you’ve taken loads of good pictures for your portfolio. Take them throughout the year, so you aren’t rushing to get your application done. If you don’t make it to the finals try again it might just be a particularly tight category that year—keep practicing and don’t give up. HOW DID YOU GO ABOUT DOING THE PICTURES FOR YOUR ENTRY PORTFOLIO? I’ve given that piece of advice from my other experience of not

IMAGES COURTESY OF ZOE KINNEAR

taking enough photos and having to rush clients in to take enough photos. I frantically called my friends who don’t have eyelashes and gave them their first set—they’re all addicted now. WHAT DO YOU FEEL MADE YOU SHABA’S BEST LASH ARTIST? The support I’ve had not just from my clients, but from the brand as well. It’s a huge part of this, not to mention Kate Baxter, who did my eyelashes in the first place and supported me from the very beginning. HOW WAS THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE? I think it’s all quite subtle, going through everything—you don’t want to say too much until the voting because you don’t want to feel you’re putting yourself forward for something you might not get. WILL YOU DEFEND YOUR TITLE NEXT YEAR? I would like to try. I think there’s more pressure after you’ve won it because what are the odds you’re going to win two years in a row or twice at all. It would be a bit hypocritical to say ‘don’t give up’, and then just do it for one year.


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Dale Ted Watkins has spent his 30 year career testing the boundaries of what men’s hair should look like. Originally a hairdresser, he trained in barbering at Vidal Sassoon. Now, Dale takes his skills across the globe, working on fashion campaigns, music videos and magazine shoots, as well as providing world– class education. To put it bluntly, Dale Ted Watkins embodies cool.


33

Feature | Dale Ted Watkins

A new age of men In conversation with Dale Ted Watkins

H

ow do you gauge the current state of cool? For inspiration into the latest street cultures, Dale Ted Watkins needs only sit outside 25 D’Arblay St London, Soho and see what the current crop of cool kids are all about. “Our industry is always led by the cool kids. It’s always led by the shepherd; it’s always led by the individual and the idea.” After years of short dos, long hair is becoming male grooming’s next big movement, and as Dale tells us, “All the cool kids have long hair.” But what does this mean for barbers? Dale is very outspoken about the barbering industry, as well as where barbering and male grooming is headed. Feeling that there’s too much of an importance placed on the value of the skin fade. “How many times can we look at a short haircut from 360 degrees? And what’s happening is that the client is moving on.” This is where he believes hairdressers will become more important in male styling. As a barber, what do you do when your customer isn’t getting a cut every two to three weeks? With some inexperienced with long hair, barbers run the risk of losing out to hairdressers who know how to make a living from long locks. “Most hairdressers make great barbers because they have the skills some barbers may need. They’re used to touching long hair, they’re used to blow–drying it, they’re used to styling it—they’re more rounded. The barbershop, unless it keeps up with that, customers will migrate back to hairdressers. “So how do we generate cash from the guy who isn’t getting his hair cut every two weeks? We deal with them the way we deal with ladies. Come in every few weeks for a trim, take this product, take that product—we offer them what hairdressers have been offering forever.” Dale’s philosophy is to be a shepherd, not caring about what industry norms are—his job is to not care. “My job is to say ‘fuck it’, and follow my gut. That’s where it’s going, that’s where man is going. I think we’re getting a bit safe again right? I see a long haircut, but let’s take it to the extremes, let’s get a bit ugly and raw with it—take it there, fuck it up a little bit, take it back and move over there. There’s going to be lots of colour and lots of androgyny and I’m not going to give a fuck.” This is clear for all to see in his collection No Sex, We’re British. No Sex, We’re British, is a stand out collection and even Dale tells

IMAGES COURTESY OF DEAN CHALKLEY (LEFT) & ANDREW GILBERT (RIGHT THREE)


us it’s very ‘unbarber’, but he simply doesn’t care. “I’m not artistic I’m creative, that’s the difference for me. There’s another wave of men’s hair coming, we’ve done beards, we’ve done skin fades, now let’s do beautiful men’s hair regardless of what it looks like.”

An image from Dale’s ‘No Sex We’re British’ collection

When I do stuff it’s going to be beautiful in how it’s shot and it’s going to tell a story. Dale has been freelance since his work with kindred spirit and Barber Barber owner, Johnny Baba—as a self–confessed free spirit, Dale loves leading a sort of modern nomad professional life. “I love working with other people. One day I’m in Glasgow, then next Soho then Moscow; what I’ve discovered working in film, music and Men’s Fashion Week and what’s fascinating is you have to have ‘different heads’.” Dale knows the modern freelancer needs the full range of skills to satisfy the client. One day, your barbering skills might put you in front of Dean Chalkley, but Dale says, “Your importance drops down the ladder. If you come into that world, you’re just a geezer who does hair and you have to learn the rules of that world.” “When you work with Sony and you’re going to do Scouting for Girls at Pinewood, it’s a different arena. I’ve done makeup for Scouting for Girls—you’ve got to have a bit of bollocks and just give it a go.” But it isn’t all glitz and glamour—there’s the reality of securing enough work to keep yourself busy and professionally fulfilled. “There’s the security about having work that week, sometimes you have to pay the bills and then you get a phone call for the coolest thing in the world.” And recently he has completed a shoot with long–term friend and collaborator Adee Phelan, who owns SKNHEAD London—the results of which we’ll see soon! The pair even hair a new venture on the horizon, but that’s as much as we can say! The future of men’s hair is like a rollercoaster, and Dale is looking to keep pushing it forward and change the perception of what men should look like—after all it’s what Dale Ted Watkins was born to do.

Education It has taken Dale Ted Watkins 30 years to master his craft, but between working in Pinewood and jetting off to Moscow, he offers incredible education masterclasses for anyone who wants to expand their skillset: Classic Barbering • Introduction to barbering • Understand style choice & suitability • Develop clipper knowledge & skills Masterclass—Men’s Hairdressing • Introduction to men’s hairdressing • Greater understanding of cutting IMAGE COURTESY OF FRANK HERHOLDT

techniques to produce alternative looks

• Enhance your product knowledge to achieve various styles

One–to–one Masterclass Course • Build a greater understanding of modern men’s barbering • You choose the styles and cuts you work on • The course is tailored specifically for your needs FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE VISIT DALETEDWATKINS.COM/TRAININGCOURSES


37

Hold Your

Colour When Tegan Robertson (@peachsoda) was an assistant in London, she would do clients’ hair from her bedroom at home to make ends meet. Fast forward six years and four homes later, Tegan has transformed this idea and made her Hackney Hair Club (@hackneyhairclub) an official entity.

T

egan opens her doors for clients to drink cocktails, gossip, watch television and leave with a glamorous new look. And while the Hackney Hair Club isn’t Tegan’s full–time career just yet—she works part–time in the ever–so–cool Hunter Collective—but her calendar is constantly full of hungry clientele. In her open–plan, one–bedroom home, Tegan has created an environment with art studio vibes for those seeking a fresh salon experience. Clients flock to the Hackney Hair Club to unwind and enjoy Tegan’s dutiful hosting. “People want to come here after work, they want to chat, they want to relax. It’s like hanging out with a mate, which is important especially in London because people get lonely.” Over the years through social media and word of mouth, Tegan’s following has evolved to become the Hackney Hair Club. This not only suits busy clients, or those looking for a more personable atmosphere but also Tegan’s free–spirited nature. “I’m a born entertainer and I like looking after people and hosting. On my part, it’s a little bit selfish because I find it more fun and I don’t like being tied down. I can pack up, move and start from scratch no matter where I am.”


38 The Hackney Hair Club has become a second home to clients who have fallen in love with the one–of–a–kind salon experience and while some will be concerned about operating a business solely from their home, Tegan tells us there have been very few issues worth chatting about. “You tend to gather clients similar to you and I know when I have clients over they’re very relaxed,” she says. “The few issues I have had are when a client gets a little too drunk and won’t leave.”

I know I don’t want to do this forever. If I want to settle down in the future and have kids, I don’t want to have people in my home, but for now, this works perfectly. One thing Tegan wants hairdressers to realise is that careers within the industry don’t have to follow a cookie–cutter mould, and the proof is in the pudding with Hackney Hair Club and its success. Tegan says, “It can be quite stressful always having people in your personal space, but with places like Hunter Collective and Ky Wilson’s The Social, there are so many options.” Pulp Riot came onto the UK scene in May this year in an explosion of colour. With the brand quickly set about snapping up incredible stylists to work as part of their Riot Squad and Educator Team. If you’re familiar in any way with Tegan’s beautiful and adventurous sense of colour, then you know Pulp Riot had to work with her. Only a short while into her freelance career, Tegan joined as a member of the brand’s Education Team. Booking into a salon can sometimes be a stressful or anxious for clients, a feeling Tegan has experienced herself and she believes the Hackney Hair Club circumvents this. “From start to finish the whole process of booking into a salon gives people anxiety—I find this myself. Calling up the salon, speaking to receptionist, knowing exactly what you need done, booking a consultation; it can be a long and stressful period. “There’s so many amazing salons make the process as comfortable as possible, but a lot of the time it’s down to the comfort of the client.” Later this year, Tegan is taking the Hackney Hair Club down under where she’ll be educating in Australia. When she comes back to the UK, Tegan and her fiancé have big plans to open a multipurpose space: part–Hackney Hair Club, part–trendy Brighton bar. “Can you imagine just walking into this really cool space— getting your hair done and meeting a date in the bar afterwards. I have this idea and I’ve already built it, and done it in my head.” We’ll see you there for a cut, colour and cocktail.

IMAGES COURTESY OF TEGAN ROBERTSON


Golden Hour Collection

INVEST IN YOUR HAIR - IT’S THE CROWN YOU NEVER TAKE OFF kelacharms.com

@kelacharms

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Eye Makeup Step–by–Step

01

All covered concealer 12 applied with a 6ss Brush

02

285 Freedom Eyeshadow applied with a 46ss brush

03

300 Freedom Eyeshadow applied with a 48ss brush

LUCY COLRAINE Senior Artist

04

305 Freedom Eyeshadow applied with a 48ss brush

05

63 Freedom Eyeshadow applied with a 48ss brush

06

134 AMC Pigment(lid) applied with Duraline with a 16pp brush. ‘Just Chillin’ Freedom Pressed Pigment Eyeshadow in inner corner with a 16pp brush.


07

77 AMC Gel Eyeliner applied with a 42T brush.

08

Repeat steps 1–7 underneath eye using a 49ss brush for the darker shades. False Lash Effect Mascara applied on lashes.

ALL PRODUCTS CAN BE PURCHASED FROM INGLOTUK.COM AND ALL INGLOT SHOPS.

09

30N Lashes applied on top lashline.

DURALINE

77 AMC GEL EYELINER

30N LASHES

46SS

49SS

42T

FALSE LASH EFFECT MASCARA

ALL COVERED CONCEALER 12


42

Feature | Salon International 2019

Inspiration & Education Every year thousands flock to London’s Excel for the biggest weekend in the UK. Salon International is the Mecca for all the hottest product launches, stage shows and education from creatives and influencers across the world. The SalonNV team spent the weekend taking in the best stage shows Salon International had to offer, and present to you, our absolute favourites. IMAGES COURTESY OF SALON INTERNATIONAL


43

Feature | Salon International 2019

Celebration of global presence

The show’s unique blend of inspiration and education started with a showcase of the new salon trend collection— the 2020 Trend Report. “This collection is grown– up and sophisticated,” said International artistic director, Cos Sakkas. “We have developed techniques that are accessible, and which you can use day in, day out.” Siobhan Golden, international technical artistic director, agreed, adding, “The trends for bold, bright colours and logos has evolved in fashion, design, beauty and in hair. Our colours are reflective of that, with more muted palettes, subtle tones and a more grown–up feel. Even playful colours now have a more grown–up quality and are more subtle–looking.”

Education director, Phil Watton, introduced the International Artistic Team to demonstrate the cuts that form the basis of the 2020 collection. Making Waves: A California–inspired look with beautiful movement and a surfer luxe, sophisticated but relaxed razor cut. Into the Frame: Inspired by tassels and embellishment in fashion, this cut uses zig–zag sections and a double base line to create subtle, internal texture. Blow Up: A celebration of natural texture, this look uses the individuality of curls to create volume, shape and weight. Shape Up: The shortest women’s cut in the collection, this style celebrates the disciplines of cutting hair with strong, sharp lines for a graphic feel. High and Tight: The shortest men’s cut in the collection uses a low fade and higher overall shape to create contrast, inspired by 90s, DIY men’s cuts. Shape on You: Working with afro textures, this cut worked with a fade, soft disconnection and length on top. Purdy Boy: Inspired by 90s bowl cuts, this cut used rounded graduation for an update built on cool, raw, undone texture. TONI&GUY has been working with London Fashion Week for 15 years this year, something that was celebrated with the session section of the show. These looks included elements of some of their favourite fashion week trends, updated with TONI&GUY techniques to form individual new looks. Indira Schauwecker presented Lead the Wave—finger–wave details contrasting against dramatic but soft texture. The Forever Yarn trend celebrates the use of fabrics and materials in the hair, brought to life with a leather–bound ponytail, finished with a Solomon braid created by Efi Davies. For Sophie Springett, it was all about Making a Comeback—a look using plastic comb headbands to create indentations in the hair, contrasting against dramatic Afro volume. Finally, Hailey presented I’m With the Band, a look which gave headbands an update by creating a headband from hair, polished and straightened to create a shimmering fabric finish.


44

Feature | Salon International 2019

Saco Supernature

F

or a brand renowned for their dynamic creativity, ‘natural’ is a word very close to Saco’s heart—and for their live show, the theme of nature was taken to the extreme with the Supernature collection. “Nature is at the heart of Saco,” said International creative director, Richard Ashforth. “The first thing we learn is the behaviour of the hair and its natural movement around the head. It doesn’t matter if you’re doing a classic cut or something very creative—you need to understand the nature of the hair to work with it, celebrate it and exaggerate it.” The Supernature collection consisted of soft shapes built on a base of strong lines, with enhanced textures for beautifully natural looks. “We were inspired by the late 70s,” explained Richard. “Disco was starting to fade, and punk and New Wave were in their ascendance, particularly in New York and London. These hubs of fashion, style and music led to a decade of creativity in the 80s, free from conformity and conservatism. We are focussing on that cusp, where disco was dying, and punk was starting to come through.” An international lineup of Saco educators was present on stage to bring Supernature to life, with Pierre Saint Sever from France, Betty Christoffersen from Denmark, Yuriy Belinovich from Ukraine and Ane Haugli representing the UK. Together, they created soft, rounded shapes with contrasting lines, that respected the natural fall of the hair while bringing effortless dynamism. Looks included a curly shrunken bob shape, a sleek graduated bob, a mass of red curls and a glossy pageboy. Supernature is also the name of the new Saco product collection, which launched this month. “Natural is key in our product line,” explained Richard. “And that very much follows our education approach—natural shapes, natural texture and hair that’s very easy

IMAGES COURTESY OF SALON INTERNATIONAL

to care for. It’s not about big blow dries, it’s about very natural, beautiful hair.” The second half of the presentation showcased the Analogue collection. A series of more directional and creative looks, Analogue is inspired by Derek Ridgers’ seminal London street photography. “Derek’s book, 78–87 London Youth,” explained Richard. “It’s a fantastic album of individuality, eccentricity and attitude. It showcases the real people behind the clothes, makeup and hair and we wanted to take an element of that honesty and essence of an individual and bring it to life in these cuts.” Pierre, Sophie McCorquodale from London, Natalya Kurnikova from Moscow and Charlie Kang from Seoul showcased these looks. They demonstrated strong, raw, punk shapes and painterly colours applied with a DIY feel using a makeup brush and retro shoeshine technique. “Freehand work is all about placement,” said Sophie. “These colours feel punk and DIY, but it still needs to not look like she did it herself.” Richard agreed, adding, “You’ve got to know the rules to break them, and you also need to have the confidence to allow yourself to keep those little imperfections.” The Analogue collection is intense contrasting colours, strong disconnected cuts with ‘chewed’ personalised edges and raw, individual colour. Looks included slim silhouettes, shrunken fringes and stepped bobs. Richard closed the show, creating a beautiful cut on a single model, showcasing his incomparable cutting skills to finish a bold, directional crop.


O

n the Monday, Rush’s highly decorated art team wowed Salon International with a high impact show to mark their 25th anniversary. The proceeds from which went to Great Almond Street Hospital, a cause the salon group has collectively raised £150,000 for. Co–founder Stell Andrew introduced the Rush Live show. He explained how he and fellow owner Andy Phouli, began cutting hair in clients’ kitchens in 1986, before opening their own Wimbledon salon in 1994. “Boy was it exciting,” Stell reminisced. “Our dream was to have 12 shops but then the dream got wilder than we ever imagined, and now we’re 100 shops later!” ‘Confidence is beautiful’ was the show introduction, and with this, the stage was beautifully set for the bold demonstrations, creative looks and avant–garde styling from new and veteran stylists. International colour director, Chris Williams opened the show, introducing the night sky as Rush’s inspiration behind their Point Constellation collection. Recreating one of their newest images, he stencilled a black half star onto the side of his model’s icy white undercut, while team members freehand painted constellations, over which ethereal shine lines were applied. Greys and barely–there mauves mixed with desaturated hair and a monochromatic palette perfectly mimicked the sparkle of the stars. Education director, Paola Pinto introduced the next section dedicated to the younger generation

25 Years of Rush of Rush stylists, who have collectively racked up an impressive string of national accolades. As a nod to 25 years of Rush, this Workshop Team took previous collection imagery, bringing heritage images up–to–date with a modern reinterpretation. As the reinvented looks were revealed, each model unveiled a t–shirt with the original look. To inspire attendees, the stylist talked through hair work, highlighting their journey to date. As the model choreography ended, the next section saw the stage become aglow with fiery reds as Rush’s editorial director Tina Farey razored hair off her avant–garde model in theatrical motions to reveal a tribal, voluminous look. Matching hair extension earrings gave a larger than life feel, and brightly coloured white and cobalt blue paint on the scalp and the lengths of the hair completed the punk–inspired style. The final part of the show saw the Rush heavyweights take to the stage as International creative director Andy Heasman presented an undercut and precision scissor–over–comb technique, whilst Paola Pinto demonstrated on a curly model. Embodying Rush’s philosophy of strength and movement, Artistic Team member and two–time winner of Southern Hairdresser of the Year, Seung Ki Baek explained his intergalactic inspired style with length through the front and choppy shorter layers at the crown. This was mixed with a subdued smoky grey and shimmery green through the back, whilst Ashley Haynes worked on an icy blonde model linking in the monochromatic palette of the ‘Point Constellation’ collection. Heritage can be a springboard for the future, and the Rush Artistic Team left the audience buzzing and hungry for more.


46 KATIE BARNES

Something Borrowed, Something Blue BRIDAL NAILS

01

Prep the natural nail by pushing back the cuticle, remove the shine with a 240– grit file, then remove the dust and use a dehydrator.

05

Apply two coats of IBD Just Gel Polish in Calm Oasis, curing each coat for 30 seconds. Apply non–wipe top coat and cure once again for 30 seconds.

03

Use cover pink acrylic to sculpt the enhancement— pinch if required.

06 02

Apply nail form for an almond shape—fully closed from the bird’s–eye view and slightly down from the side.

04

File and buff into shape, removing all dust.

On the ring and index fingernail use Crystal Nails Art Gel and a fine line brush to draw stencil roses. Start by drawing two semicolons to create the centre of the flower, then ensure the next petal overlaps each gap from the previous layer and cure for two minutes. If you find the gel starts to self–level, freeze cure each flower or every couple of petals for approximately 10 seconds. To add height and a 3D effect, layer up the art gel.


47 10

Use gem glue or acrylic to adhere flowers to thin wire. Apply the leaves, flowers and some gypsophila to the wire.

09 07

On the remaining nails, apply Crystal Nails Skin Guard and use Crystal Nails Stamping Floral Plate and White Stamping Lacquer. To remove the residue and any dust from the stamper, use a lint–free roller. Peel the skin guard off after you are happy with application and apply non–wipe top coat. Using the same gel polish and paint as steps five and six, create a border around these nails and finish by applying some pearls to the little finger.

08

To make the bouquet, I created 3D flowers and leaves using Crystal Nails Lace Gel, and created the centre bud by picking up a bead of lace gel with a spatula and rolling it into a ball on the back of my hand. Apply water and use a 3D mini brush to press out into a sausage. Roll this into the shape of a bud. If you prefer, you can wear gloves. Freeze cure for 10 seconds.

IMAGES COURTESY OF KATIE BARNES

Keep making petals and rolling round the inner one until you have created the size you desire. To make the petals, mix with some gel paint on a file to create the desired shade, then apply onto an Arabella form and push into a leaf shape, cure for 30 seconds and remove. Remember that lace gel is very light–sensitive so keep the lid on whilst working to avoid the product becoming hard.

11

Finish with some pearls and Swarovski Crystals.

To create the bridal nails, Katie used these products: △ Crystal Nails Spray Prep △ Crystal Nails Floral Stamping △ Astonishing Nails 240 grit file Plate △ Astonishing Nails 180 grit file △ Crystal Nails Stamper △ Astonishing Nails 280/220 △ Crystal Nails White buffer Stamping Lacquer △ Crystal Nails Xtreme △ Ikea lint–free roller Butterfly Forms △ Crystal Nails White Art Gel △ Crystal Nails The Big One △ Crystal Nails White Lace Gel Acrylic Brush △ Spatula △ Nail Gaga Cover Pink Acrylic △ Alexa Kisgyori Superliner and Monomer Brush △ IBD Just Gel Polish in Calm △ Crystal Nails Gem Glue Oasis △ Pearls and Swarovski from △ IBD Non–wipe Top Coat Crystal Parade

PHOTOGRAPHY

MODEL

Arienne Jonas

Rachael Gidlow

HAIR & MAKEUP

NAILS

Hannah–Louise Field

Katie Barnes


48

Feature | Lighting

Light up—as if you have a choice Technology exists to make things better, right? Well, you may not agree if it was being said by someone who wants to sell you something—but SalonNV has it on good authority from hair and beauty experts, that the amazing choice of lighting options available on the market definitely makes their jobs so much easier. So can you afford to be left in the dark?


Keeping Things Light & Bright

49

We speak to some of the best in makeup about lighting in their work Olivia Hammond (@oliviaalison), Inglot Glasgow “While creating any kind of makeup look, the right lighting is imperative. Ring lights are especially effective for this as they ensure that light is hitting every angle of the face, highlighting features and the makeup in the best way. It helps to eliminate shadows being cast over the face, as well as showing off the potential of makeup products and the skills

of the makeup artist. It also guarantees accuracy when creating makeup looks on clients/models as it replicates daylight. As a makeup artist, you have no way of assuring what the lighting will be like on your location, so it’s always advisable to bring a good-quality ring light to help with this.”

Sara Hill (@sarahillmakeup), makeup artist “Lighting is important in makeup application as well as taking photos of your work. What lighting system you choose is dependent on the type of makeup you create. If you work in a studio/salon and your makeup style is glam, opt for a large ring light LED is best and I would recommend the defuser fabric to soften, both can be bought from Amazon Newer range. Daylight is always my preference so I

sit my clients facing the window where possible, however with the darker nights and early morning photoshoots I need to fake soft lighting as best I can. I have two setups—The Makeup Light and Glamcor light. For best effect have the light central as possible and slightly above your client’s face. There is also a cheaper version with a battery, which I use on set locations and for iPhone videos to catch the skin shine effects.”

Tia Jade (@beautyby_tjm), makeup artist “Using the correct lighting in the beauty industry is one of the most important things. Especially as a makeup artist, we are in charge of people’s faces and they trust us to enhance their natural beauty. The Aura Ring Lamp is a game-changer—I will never be using anything different again. I couldn’t believe how light and easy it was to carry around and put together, it was so simple and took less than five minutes. It’s perfect for when I travel for bridal makeup or group parties, as sometimes the lighting is terrible and it’s very difficult to work with.

Mia Connor (@miaconnor), makeup artist “I always use natural light wherever I can. I would only use lighting if I was working before the sun came up and I don’t shoot models with a ring light—it would be rare”

Also, there is a brilliant phone holder that charges your phone so you can record yourself doing treatments using the best lighting while charging your phone. Being able to adjust the lighting is so important, as the weather changes every 10 minutes and being able to adjust it easily and quickly is important. After using the Aura light, I was so shocked looking at the pictures, as they have never looked so true to colour and clear. I took five pictures when I usually take around 20 to get the best lighting. This light is an absolute must-have for anyone in the beauty industry.”


Illuminating your way to success A LOT OF BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS WILL AGREE that quality lighting is the entire royal court of their work—this means it’s worth putting serious money into. This is especially true with makeup artists as lighting is as key to the final look as your skills. The wrong lighting will cause your look to be blotted out by shadow and colours will lose their real pop. The right lighting will drastically improve your application skill set. We have gone over what to look out for when choosing the best lighting to suit you and your business. WHY IS THE RIGHT LIGHTING IMPORTANT? You can’t compete with clear, natural lighting, as it’s the perfect complement to your makeup application skills. But what do you do in absence of this? In steps the Aura ring light by The Daylight Company. Which offers an even distribution of light to fully enhance your shades and coverage. The right lighting means you’re able to give your clients/models the perfect look without worrying about intrusive shadows. As step–by–steps often involve a full spectrum of shades and foundation tones, the right lighting will show off exactly what you’re using. Getting the best lighting may be difficult depending on what space you have to work with, as not enough will cast a shadow over the true beauty of your work.

THE POWER OF RING LIGHTS Makeup artists are masters of so many skills. Turning their hands to artistry, photography, graphic design and obviously, they are social media–savvy queens. The Aura is the perfect accoutrement to all of these talents. Fully illuminating the face to properly see skin tones, hues and small details. While taking photos of your finished looks, the Aura creates a youthful halo around the eyes, making your work pop— this means less time spent editing and more engagement on your social media! The LED halo evenly distribute light to enhance your images, eliminating shadows and bringing out the beautiful features of your client/model. There’s a lot of different ring lights on the market, but there’s none with quite as much versatility as The Daylight Company’s Aura Ring Light. ONE RING LIGHT TO RULE THEM ALL After assessing your working area, the Aura lamp by The Daylight


51

Company with its LED light and dimming function, allows you to take full control the intensity of the light to perfectly match your shooting environment and the skin tones of your clients/models. This ensures you achieve a flawless look every time. Alongside this, the lamp’s easy–to–assemble lightweight frame, and comfortable carry–bag makes the Aura an absolute must for any makeup artist going from location to location. It can be used during studio or salon work, no matter what location you’re on and the Aura’s flexibility means you can tackle looks from any angle. Understanding that in an industry where social media rules, the Aura comes equipped with an incredible social media–friendly phone holder—specifically designed for vloggers and YouTubers. The Aura makes sure your latest makeup masterpieces or video step–by– steps show off your full skill. MUA

Tia Jade @beautyby_tjm MODEL

Genevieve @beauty.by.genevieve LOCATION

The Odyssey Spa, Knebworth @the_odyssey_spa

shop at daylightcompany.com and at salon–services.com


Instagram Showcase

A quick glance at the work of social media–savvy creatives across the country. Tag @barbernvmagazine for a chance to feature your work in our next issue.


54

Feature | Hair & The Environment

Be part of the new herd Introducing Moo Hair, an ethical company who create and make salon products that are kind to the skin, the environment and the planet. *Moo Hair don’t test any of their products on animals, especially Highland Coos.

I (from top) The mother and daughter team behind the ethical brand Moo Hair, Suzie and Olivia Gillespie, from Edinburgh

t’s been estimated around a shocking 5.5 billion plastic bottles are sent to UK landfills every year. With climate change a hot button topic, both salons and clients alike are looking for brands cutting their impact on the environment without cutting their quality. Tired of not being able to source eco–friendly and vegan products for her salon, Player’s Lounge (Rose Street, Edinburgh) owner, Suzie Gillespie was buying products from Australia and Italy but was conscious of her carbon footprint. The shortfall in UK based eco–brands got Suzie and her business student daughter, Olivia thinking and having talked about launching a business together for a long time—the pair launched Moo Hair in June this year. “I was bringing in brands from Italy and Australia—nice brands but it wasn’t good for our carbon footprint. I felt there was a gap in the market for a brand with ethical ingredients, ethically sourced packaging and is vegan.” Suzie and Olivia spent two years developing the formulas with a lab who specialises in natural and renewable products; using Marula Oil, Islandic Moss and sea salts to create their beautiful seven product range. Passionate about Moo Hair being not just good for the environment but for your hair, the lightweight products are perfect for achieving show–stopping natural movement. Naturally rich in antioxidants, the luxury ingredients in Moo’s products protect against UV damage, environmental toxins and incredibly hydrated, soft, shiny and frizz free. When the drive to go green is gaining momentum and people are becoming more eco– conscious—especially when it comes to plastic consumption—Moo Hair’s glass bottle vessels (which are 100 per cent recyclable) and recycled paper labels printed with vegetable ink, give

IMAGES COURTESY OF MOO HAIR

salons a real eco–friendly alternative—they even ship products in recycled cardboard packaging. “People were actively looking for alternatives. Salons are embracing it and the businesses we’ve got so far are loving the range and the ethos behind it.” Moo Hair’s natural and eco–friendly ethos clearly strikes a chord with salons, but this isn’t where the brand’s work ends. As they are passionate about sourcing Fairtrade ingredients, such as the Marula nut, which empowers whole communities who rely on the harvest as a vital economic lifeline. “We have these red lines we aren’t going to cross and we aren’t going to compromise on. We want to be seen as a brand salons can trust. Every single item has been thought about, we want to know where ingredients are sourced, the ethics of the supplier. That’s the beauty of being a small business; we can afford to spend the time doing that.” Suzie and Olivia are refreshingly hands–on with their clientele. They tell SalonNV, “The unique thing about being a UK brand at the moment is we can get around and visit our salons and get to know them. Salons can pick up the phone and it’s us they’ll be speaking to. I know that might evolve but for the time being that’s important.” If all of that wasn’t a big enough moo’d, Moo Hair have pledged five per cent of their profits will go to an eco–charity with any damaged stock going to homeless organisations. Moving into 2020 Olivia and Suzie are looking to create 5 litre versions of the incredible Shampoo and Conditioner but admit they’re taking time to find the right materials. “We’re taking the time to find the right materials for our products—we don’t want to use the wrong materials and we certainly don’t want to use plastic.”


Natural, ethical hair products Miracle Shampoo

Miracle Mask

Sea Salt Spray

Moo is a family run ethical company based in Scotland. We create and make luxury, high quality salon products that are kind to the skin, the environment and the planet. Visit moohair.com to find out more about our great range of products and sign up to our Moosletter!


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Feature | Hair & The Environment

Pollution Solution 01

USE THE RIGHT SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER. Understand your hair type first and then choose the right hair care products accordingly. Do you have naturally oily or dry hair? Do you have normal–to– dry hair or normal–to–oily hair? The right shampoo and conditioner will keep your hair healthy and clean without stripping away its natural nutrients.

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ADD EXTRA PROTECTION. It’s important to make sure your hair is well protected—both in terms of physical protection and nourishment before you step out of the house. The best–selling ghd heat protect spray (£12.99) provides an invisible barrier against everyday heat damage as well as environmental factors. Containing the unique ghd protection system and conditioning agents, this spray will protect your hair all day long.

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INCREASE YOUR PROTEIN INTAKE. The long–term solution to keeping your hair healthy is to maintain a balanced diet, ensuring you eat enough protein– rich foods. Hair strands are made up of protein–fibres, and a protein–rich diet will strengthen your hair and encourage hair growth. Eggs, lentils, fish and leafy greens are must–have hair foods if you want health locks.

IMAGES PROVIDED BY ghd & SHUTTERSTOCK

With the much–heralded plans to pedestrianise London’s bustling Oxford Street—the world’s most polluted street— it isn’t a surprise we’re seeing a rise in the sale of anti–pollution beauty products, with online searches increasing by 73 per cent in the past year. We know pollution does horrible things to our skin, but what about its effects on your hair? Pollution is a major cause of dull hair and greasy roots, gas from car exhausts and other toxic molecules measure around 2.5 micrometers—20 times smaller than the human hair. So it’s no wonder they gain such easy access to our follicles. The toxic chemicals in the air are produced by everything from transport to agriculture, to power generation and other industrial sources. However, you need not threat that your hair isn’t protected, UK ghd ambassador, Zoe Irwin shares with us her top pollution solutions to keep your locks from losing their lustre.

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KEEP A CLEAN SCALP. Oily and greasy hair will only attract more pollutants to your hair. Make sure your hair isn’t oily and try to keep your scalp as clean as possible. However, shampooing your hair every day isn’t good for your scalp either—this is where dry shampoo can save you.

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INDULGE IN A TREATMENT. Pollutants often suck the moisture out of the head and scalp, leaving hair dry, thin and prone to damage. Fortify split ends and protect future breakage by using the ghd advanced split end therapy treatment (£19.95). Activated by heat, this wonder treatment works instantly to fortify ends, leaving hair feeling sleek, smooth and shiny for up to 10 washes. Simply comb through shampooed hair, blow–dry then pass your ghd platinum+ styler (£175) over the hair to seal in the product using heat.


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Paula Knorr

SS20 HAIR BY NICK IRWIN FOR ANTI

INSPIRATION

The hair for this show was created to feel effortless, cool and understated in contrast to dramatic and statement makeup. Natural textures were the focus, with hair accessories as an added detail. However, these aren’t your average hair slides—the bespoke clips were placed at random, “as if the girl was in a cab, found an accessory in her bag, and placed it in at random without a mirror,” says Nick. The result was ‘slipped slides’, placed unexpectedly and at random through the lengths and back of the hair for a nonchalant, care–free finish. GET THE LOOK

Each model’s natural hair texture was the focus, with a little ANTI Everything Spray or Finishing Cream used to ‘lock–in’ the natural texture, enhance movement and add a little weightless control. For the models who had very straight or fine hair, tongs were used to create a gentle, barely–there kick. Hair clips were added visually in the final lineup, placed at random and in a different spot on each model. THE COLLECTION

Nick’s hair look was the perfect complement to the collection’s relaxed, bohemian take on holiday glamour. The hair accessories were created in collaboration with Berlin fairtrade jewellery designer, WALD.

SHOW |​​ Paula Knorr Spring / Summer 2020 HAIR | Nick Irwin for ANTI TEAM | ​​Ellie Bond, Katie Prescott, Alastair Jubbs, Tania Faenza & Nathan Glynn KEY PRODUCTS | ​​ANTI Everything Spray, Finishing Cream

IMAGES COURTESY OF PAULA KNORR


Embracing beauty in uniqueness


Feature | It’s a 10!

W

ith her glossy brunette locks, fluttery long lashes and immaculate makeup, Carolyn Aronson could easily be mistaken for one of the Kardashians. But the pretty entrepreneur is no reality star—she’s a successful self-made hairdresser, philanthropist and the founder and CEO of It’s a 10 Haircare—and also quite the feminist. Despite admitting that her first haircare business flopped, Carolyn has since built the hugely successful brand that is It’s a 10 Haircare, hailed by A-listers including Christina Applegate and Gabrielle Union. She wanted to get her product into the hands of hairdressers and consumers so created a massive sampling campaign as opposed to traditional marketing. Fast forward 15 years and she has turned down multiple ninefigure offers to continue the independent success of It’s a 10. The Miracle Leave-In product is still her bestseller—shifting a whopping 13 million bottles yearly. “I was eight years old and declared I was going to be a hairdresser, then 16 years old, I declared was going to be a salon owner,” Carolyn says. “I’ve been a hair product manufacturer for over 15 years, so I’ve lived and breathed this industry my entire life.” She stepped into the industry during the eighties hairdressing boom when some of the most talented and creative hairdressers started their own brands. Adopted at the age of two to a family of blonde-haired, blueeyed Americans, Carolyn has always felt the need to champion diversity. Her goal was to create a diverse, revolutionary and inclusive multi-functional collection for all hair types. “My world has been very intercultural,” Carolyn reveals. “I have a daughter that’s part Nigerian and I’m Jewish. I’ve always had a very open mind when it comes to people and cultures. “I feel like the world has enough to be divided about and I would like to use my brand as a vehicle for unity. If anything, beauty is universal and we should all embrace our unique beauty.” She began with a star product, Miracle Leave-In, and quickly

gathered attention through recommendations from pro hair stylists, who shared the products with their clients. In addition to producing an inclusive product, Carolyn’s brand has helped women and men across the globe look and feel their best, while also allowing Carolyn to pursue her key priorities: Making the world a better place, raising a successful family and creating a culture that embraces diversity. Her determined work ethic helped her to acquire expert knowledge and gain a foothold as a female leader in an otherwise male-dominated industry. “I kind of stumbled into manufacturing through my partner who was a sales guy. He suggested trying to make our own line and failed. After that we tried again and started with one bottle as we were broke at that point.

I think anytime you’re entering into a business world pretty much run by men and you’re a hairdresser, they always have their doubts about you. But I believed in my product, I did massive sampling campaigns because I didn’t have a lot of money for marketing. I believed in the juice in the bottle and that’s what really brought us to the dance.” Marketing like no other beauty brand, It’s a 10 Haircare was the first independent haircare brand to run a national Super Bowl spot, featuring individuals from all walks of life. In 2017, they founded ‘National Love Your Hair Day’ on October 10 to champion diversity in beauty and challenge everyone to embrace their uniqueness. The brand continues to celebrate this every year with activities across the U.S, including a Times Square takeover and a national sampling campaign that distributes more than 100K Miracle Leave-Ins. Carolyn says, “We never pay influencers or celebrities. A big part of my brand is to do it organically. Christina Applegate publicly tweeted about me and spoke about me in People and InStyle Magazine. Gabrielle Union repeatedly spoke about me in her Twitter and across magazines saying that she’s actually been able to grow her hair with my products. “As a thank you to her organic support, I created a breast cancer awareness collection and donated the proceeds to her foundation. She had a double mastectomy in her 30s. We’ve done this twice and she phoned me recently and wants to do it again.” By building relationships with hair stylists and key influencers via widespread sampling across America, an initiative she started 15 years ago which was unique at the time, she was able to ensure It’s a 10 Haircare was in the hands of salon owners and hairdressing experts, which she knew would love and support the brand. “Sometimes your failures are your best lessons,” says Carolyn. “I still believe there’s a lot of room for improvement, for raising the bar and for bringing innovation to our industry.” WORDS BY LISA BOYLE

IMAGES COURTESY OF IT’S A 10!


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TAOH | Bruno Marc


PHOTOGRAPHY

Richard Miles MAKEUP

Katie Moore STYLIST

Ellen Spiller ART DIRECTION & HAIR

Bruno Marc


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stockists FRANCIS HUNTER HAIR & BEAUTY, STIRLING G&E MCINTYRES LTD, NORTHAMPTON KARINE JACKSON HAIR & BEAUTY SALON, LONDON MARC ANTONI, BRACKNELL SALON MARC ANTONI, CAVERSHAM SALON MARC ANTONI, FLEET SALON MARC ANTONI, HENLEY SALON MARC ANTONI, WOODLEY SALON RE:NU HAIR STUDIO, LEICESTER STONE HAIR, BOURNEMOUTH STONE HAIR, BROADSTONE THE HAIR SECRET, BERKHAMSTED SEQUOIA HAIR, NEWBURY THE ROGERY, CAMBRIDGE

TO PURCHASE, VISIT TAOH.CO.UK For further information, distribution queries or to become a stockist, please contact info@taoh.co.uk

PRODUCTS THAT LOVE YOUR HAIR JUST AS MUCH AS WE DO


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Product Envy | Christmas Gift Guide

Find the perfect Christmas gift 01Coriolis | C1 Christmas Set

These stunning, limited edition irons offer all the usual benefits of the standard C1, with a metallic finish and gorgeous patterned inlay. This set also includes a matching paddle brush, the perfect Christmas treat to give, is the gift of flawless hair. | £109.99, CORIOLIS.CO.UK

Professional | 02Wella Colour Brilliance Duo

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Invigo

With both Wella Professional’s Colour Brilliance shampoo (250ml) and conditioner (200ml), this set optimised with anti–oxidant shield technology to give you the longest lasting colour possible. With lime caviar. | £14.95, UK.WELLASTORE.COM

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| System 2 Kit for Natural 03Nioxin Hair with Progressed Thinning The three–part System 2 delivers thicker, fuller hair, while protecting every hair strand against damage. Contains UV–protection ingredients. Step One is a cleanser shampoo which removes sebum from scalp and hair; Step Two is a revitalising conditioner which provides hair resilience and controls moisture balance; and Step Three is a volumising leave–on treatment designed to refresh the scalp and increase the fullness of each strand of hair. This trial gift kit also comes with an instant fullness dry cleanser to help prolong the hard work of the three–part system and provides twice fuller hair in seconds. and provides up to 2x fuller hair within seconds. | £33.00, NIOXIN.COM

| Elements Xclusive Care 04idHAIR Moisture Christmas Bag Part of the new Christmas Care gift bags from IdHAIR, the Moisture Christmas Bag contains moisturising products that rehydrate the hair, making it stronger and easier to detangle. Includes Elements Xclusive Care Moisture Shampoo, Moisture Conditioner and Moisture Leave In Conditioning Cream. As an added bonus, all products are vegan, gluten–free, sulphate– free, and contain non–allergen perfume. | £18.99, IDHAIRUK.COM

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This set contains three items. The Therapist Hydrating Shampoo (300ml) which gently cleanses to reduce colour fade, strengthens & hydrates colour–treated, dry hair. The Therapist Hydrating Conditioner (300ml)—a bottle full of proteins, moisturisers and humectants that moisturise, strengthen and soften, whilst helping to detangle. The Great Hydrator Moisture Mask (150ml) with intense hydrating treatment to moisturise, soften, reduce frizz and add shine. All of the products in this set are vegan, cruelty free, made without sulfates, parabens or gluten. | £38.00, EVOHAIR.CO.UK

Rule the gift of giving this year with this award–winning styling duo. Featuring the Platinum+ smart styler and professional performance ghd air hairdryer, which have both been finished with a beautiful rose gold dusting for the festive season. | £298.00, GHDHAIR.COM

Evo | Thank Goodness Hydrate Gift Set

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ghd | Platinum+ smart styler and professional ghd air hairdryer with luxury vanity case

Scott | Raffaelle Quality 07Maxwell Medium Leather Washbag This sturdy bag from Maxwell Scott features a wipe–clean, faux leather lining and wide zip for easy opening. Though slim enough to pack into your travel bag, the Raffaelle is big enough to accommodate all your essentials. This is the perfect travel companion that will jet around with you for years to come. | £150.00, MAXWELLSCOTTBAGS.COM

08Moo Hair | Hair Elementals

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This luscious set contains the Moo Shampoo, Moo Conditioner and Bamboo Paddle Brush. The brush is made with natural rubber and sustainable bamboo so does not contain any plastic. To learn more about Moo Hair of Edinburgh, turn to page 56 to read our interview with the brand founders. | £49.99, MOOHAIR.COM

| Deep Miracle Treatment 09Muk Duo Gift Pack Possibly the two most effective products in the whole Muk range, packed in a smart gift pack and at an incredible price. Deep Muk One Minute Treatment is described by Hairdressers as their ‘lifesaver’ in that it’s effective on even the most tangled or damaged hair. It is great even if your hair is perfectly healthy! 20 in 1 Miracle treatment is a fabulous product covering every aspect of styling, treatment and protection. | £17.75, MUKHAIRUK.COM


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Product Envy | Editor’s Choice

Our pick of the products 01Elevatione | Eyer Kit

The Eyer Kit is the ultimate collection of products to combat the signs of ageing and create a youthful, more radiant appearance. The Eyer Kit contains: • The Under Eye Exercising Serum—a serum that shrinks the pores to reduce puffiness around the under-eye area. • Under Eye Curactive Capsules—an effective corrector to create a more youthful appearance. • The Eye Cream Idol—a moisturising and nourishing eye cream to hide tired eyes. • Puffiness Eliminating Wizard—a one-of-a-kind tool that instantly reduces puffy eyes. • Eye Makeup Remover—a super delicate daily makeup remover. | £1,833.40, ELEVATIONE.COM

02Moo Hair | Miracle Conditioner

Moo Miracle Conditioner nourishes and protects the hair leaving it feeling incredibly hydrated, soft, shiny and frizz-free. Its light consistency is both natural and nourishing. It leaves your hair feeling smooth and silky. Marula oil and Icelandic moss lock-in moisture, promoting shine and protecting the hair from the damaging effects of UV exposure and environmental toxins. | £22.00, MOOHAIR.COM

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One Ocean Beauty | Blue Light Protection & Hydration Mist

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This mist from One Ocean Beauty is designed explicitly to help protect our skin from modern issues: digital aging from blue light exposure, urban pollution and dehydration. The mist is filled with active ingredients protecting our skin, as well as nutrient rich algae from the Celtic Sea to lock in hydration and protect against pollution. | £46.00, NET–A–PORTER.COM

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Philip Kingsley | The Shine Saviours—Hydration & Shine Collection

Gift your loved ones stunning shine and hydration with this collection of products perfect for Medium Hair. The Shine Saviours gift set includes an Elasticizer 75ml, Moisture Balancing Combination Shampoo 250ml, Moisture Balancing Combination Conditioner 250ml and Perfecting Primer Heat Protection Spray 60ml to make sure you have the tools for show-stopping shine. | £40.00, PHILIPKINGSLEY.CO.UK

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05Taoh | Oil

Taoh’s award-winning formulation contains Argan, Macadamia and Kukui oil restores the life and shine of hair; promoting scalp health to restore hair growth and vitality. It prevents split ends and calms the hair of frizz, tangles and dullness. | £19.00, TAOH.MYSHOPIFY.COM

06It’s a 10 | Miracle Leave–in Conditioner Spray

Say goodbye to dull, damaged hair and hello to your new haircare BFF—the Miracle Leave-In Conditioner Product. A cult-classic, this easy-to-use spray smooths hair, eliminates frizz, restores shine, and enhances the hair’s natural body. Full of natural ingredients, such as sunflower seed, green tea leaf extract and silk amino acids, to help bring out all hair types’ natural lustre and shine, while also making your hair stronger and healthier with every use! | $18.99, ITSA10HAIRCARE.COM

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Hair Jewellery | Celest Diamante 07Kela Rose Gold Charm Collection Add some sparkle to your style with the Celeste Diamante hair charm. Finished in five different metals to match your mood or your outfit—Rose Gold, Gold, Platinum, Gunmetal and Brass. Each charm has been electroplated with Rose Gold and covered with Diamantes You’ll receive a boxed set of three hair charms in the metal of your choice, together with a Kela opening tool. The Celeste Diamante hair charm is kind to your locks, it won’t rip or tear your hair. Most importantly, it’s really easy to use, so you can have great hair every day! | £39.95 RRP, KELAHAIRBYDFF.CO.UK

08 Group 08Baldan Contouring

| T–SHAPE 3–in–1 Body–Shaping and

A unique device that combines three different state–of–the–art technologies for instant body and face well–being. T–Shape permits the simultaneous use of radio– frequency, infrared and vacuum technologies. A modular system whose components can be used together or separately, depending on the treatment. With powerful toning and relaxing action, T–Shape guarantees visible results from the very first session. The three treatments in the package consist of: • LLLT – a laser effective in reducing excess fat • Multipolar radio frequency – to help improve tissue elasticity • Vacuum massage – combat cellulite imperfections. | TO BOOK A FREE DEMO, CONTACTING JENNIFER.FINESTONE@BALDANGROUP.IT OR BY CALLING 07375483641.


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Product Envy | Skin & Makeup Products

Skin–dulgence 01 01Botanicals | Sensory Test Kit

Containing one of each of the six essential oil blends in the Aromatic Body Oils range, this set is designed for therapists to easily offer their clients a choice of oil before their treatment. There are three revitalising and uplifting oils and three harmonising and relaxing oil blends with different scents and benefits. The scents are Deep Peace, Indulgence, Muscle Ease, Spa Detox, Revitalise and Harmony. This range is vegan and cruelty–free, coming in eco–friendly packaging. | £45.00, BOTANICALS.CO.UK

| Weekend 02JOICO Shampoo

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Hair Dry

Take a welcome break from time–consuming wet washes and blowouts without sacrificing an ounce of style. With oil–absorbing ingredients and volume boosters that deliver fullness, this time–saving spray gives you fresh, clean, velvety–soft hair any day of the week | £16.10, BEAUTYBAY.COM

03LOTIL | Moisturising Cream

LOTIL cream has been tried and tested for over 100 years, proving it can benefit everyone by rehydrating skin, adding moisture retention and providing maximum protection. The non–greasy, easily–absorbed formula hydrates quickly for practical use. This also works as a skincare solution for problem skin, treating conditions such as dry skin, eczema and psoriasis. | £6.29, BOOTS.COM

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OSMO | Intensive Deep Repair Mask Sachets

OSMO has released this mask in a test and trial sachet size so that customers can try the mask first, before they buy the full–sized product. The Deep Moisture mask restores moisture, reconstructs and cares for damaged hair. Filled with nourishing ingredients like Pataua Oil and Keratin Complex. | £1.75 EACH, OSMO.UK.COM

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71 Makeup magic 05

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Revolution x Alexis Stone | Instinct Palette

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This new palette was created in collaboration with artist and drag queen Alexis Stone. The Instinct Palette has 28 highly pigmented bold, bright shades in a complete colour gradient allowing creatives to explore their imagination and have a lot to work with. | £20.00, BEAUTYBAY.COM

REMEDY | Shimmer Glitter 06Dr.’s Trio Pack

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Get sparkly nails with Dr.’s Remedy vitamin enriched nail polish. The Shimmer gift set contains the Dr. Remedy shades Magnetic Midnight and Giving Garnet as well as the Total Two–in–One multi–purpose clear base coat and top coat. | £32.45, REMEDYNAILS.COM

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GELLUX | Keep A Secret

Reveal your true colours with the new seasonal Gellux collection. Curing in just 30 seconds, with a choice of up to eight new Gellux shades, the Gellux Gel Polish promises beautifully glossy, chip–resistant colour that lasts for up to 15 days. | £11.95, SALONSDIRECT.COM

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| Masterful 08Nanshy Brush Collection

12–Piece

Made with synthetic fibres, Masterful 12–Piece Brush Collection contains face, lip and eye brushes. Creating a perfectly–polished finish, the super soft bristles gently and precisely apply liquid, powders and creams whilst seamlessly blending. | £49.95, BEAUTYBAY.COM


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Product Envy | Hair Products

Hair care & things to wear | Limited Edition Crystal 01Balmain Logo Barrette Indulge and make a statement this Christmas party season with the Barrette Pour Cheveux, statement hair accessory. Fashioned from durable, hypoallergenic cellulose acetate, and featuring a high–quality clip, the Balmain brand name is picked out in Swarovski silver crystals. Inspired by the high–shine black separates and seductive silver details of the A/W 2019 Balmain fashion collection, the Barrette brings red carpet–worthy kudos to any hairstyle in a flash. | £255.00, BALMAINHAIR.COM

Couture 02Crown Frontals

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| Closures &

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Manufactured using the highest quality Brazilian and Russian Mongolian human hair, CrownCouture lace closures and frontals are available in a middle, freestyle or fringe parting. The frontals have a freestyle parting. The closures and frontals also include fine baby hair around the hairline to allow for a more natural appearance, with 17 sumptuous shades to choose from. | £124.00+VAT, CROWNCOUTURE.CO.UK

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Faith in Nature | Avocado Shampoo, Conditioner & Body Wash

Faith in Nature have launched a new avocado superfood–infused collection featuring shampoo, conditioner and body wash. The range is harnessed from the nutrient rich avocado leaving hair and skin strengthened, nourished and revitalised. The collection is vegan friendly, cruelty free, paraben and SLS free, in 100% recycled materials with 100% natural fragrance. | £5.79, FAITHINNATURE.CO.UK

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| Clean Blonde 04Fudge Rewind Shampoo

Damage

The #PurpleShampooChallenge has exploded all over Tik Tok, which involves applying excessive amounts of purple shampoo in your hair—some users even thinking this will turn their hair purple! However, the Fudge Professional shampoo will simply give your locks a brighter, cleaner blonde. | £14.95, FUDGEPROFESSIONAL.COM

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73 05Rescue My. Hair | Shampoo Bars

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Environmentally–responsible shampoo & conditioner in a bar format with a unique soap– free technology. Handmade, cold–pressed, cruelty–free & vegan with simplified essential ingredients and complexes. Natural colouring with a gentle neutral pH5.5. Contains no palm oil, no silicone and no toxic ingredients. The bars even come with a re–usable box for storage in between uses! | £13.95, MY–HAIRCARE.COM

06 06R+Co | Thickening Concentrate

Are you looking for over–the–top, Dallas–style big hair? Then R+Co has the professional use–only product for you. Dallas Thickening Concentrate adds even more texture for big, long–lasting hair. The Thickening Concentrate smooths and strengthens the hair without weighing you down and increases the fullness of fine by two times with one application. | £20.00, RANDCO.COM/UK

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The London Hair Lab | I–Tip Hair

The London Hair Lab only distributes hair to hair extension specialist salons which prefer to work with salon–exclusive brands. The London Hair Lab stocks five methods of hair extension in a range of lengths and shades. Using 100% Russian Virgin Hair, the I–Tip is attached using the micro ring method, and available in a variety of lengths and shades. | £POA, THELONDONHAIRLAB.COM

Professional | Igora RAW 08Schwarzkopf Essentials Earthy Clay & Ashy Cedar The new salon-essential shades have enriched the full IGORA portfolio with cool, matte and neutral tone direction—offering an alternative, powdery take on browns. Designed specifically for the need of strong neutralisation when lifting or highlighting darker bases. IGORA Earthy Clay—sophisticated, earthy and dusted brown tones for an iridescent look, upgrading bare beauty. IGORA Ashy Cedar—IGORA’s strongest neutralising shades with hues of petrol and facets of ashy brown for coolest brown results. | TO BECOME A STOCKIST CALL 0800 3286920

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Product Envy | Furniture & Equipment

The Greatest Gear 01

01The Daylight Company | The Aura

See your work in perfect Daylight and unlock the potential with the Aura ring lamp. The high CRI allows you to work in perfect daylight wherever you are. The flexible ring gives an even and shadowless distribution of light. Social–media friendly with a mobile phone holder for YouTubers and vloggers – the Aura is also lightweight and folds into its carry–bag. | £169.99, DAYLIGHTCOMPANY.COM

02Kent Salon | Styling Set

Christmas has come early thanks to the Kent Salon Christmas Styling Set. The set includes a selection of top Kent Salon Brushes, including the KS04 Dressing Brush, the KS07 Paddle Brush and three Ceramic Brushes—the KS10, KS11 and KS12. Not only do you get some super–styling Kent Salon brushes, but the kit also includes four sectioning clips and a water spray bottle, all in a portable travel case. | £60.00, KENTSALON.CO.UK

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Wahl | Styling Iron

Less heat, same results, work on a lower heat to reduce damage to your hair whilst still delivering the same unbeatable results. The Styling Iron features contoured ceramic edges that heat up and cool down ultra-fast to reduce the risk of snagging when creating smooth curls, waves or sleek straight hair, making it perfect for all hair types. With variable heat settings from 160°C to 210°C and a three-meter swivel cord, this iron provides the speed and control you need to create any look. | £80.00, WAHL.CO.UK

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Salon Spotlight | TH1 Hair, Surrey

SALON SPOTLIGHT

TH1 Hair

TH1 HAIR IS A SALON located in the heart of Oxted, Surrey by multi– award–winning stylist Thomas Hills and has unveiled its new glossy and gorgeous monochrome interior. The salon boasts an interior designed to reflect TH1 Hair’s style–centric branding and modern approach to hair. Originally opening its doors in 2004, the salon, characterised by clean lines, bright white minimalism and unique furnishings—acting as a signifier for the brand’s discipline and attention to detail. Modelled on a photographic studio, the bright lights and clean lines are the ideal backdrop for the salon’s creative collective. With a growing fashion industry presence—the team have worked backstage at London Fashion Week and


featured in Vogue—the design felt like an organic nod to the team’s growing fashion connections. A glossy mix of reflective surfaces—metallic chairs in the raised backwash area and uniquely angular hanging mirrors—brings an understated glamour and sense of luxury to the entire space. Commenting on the salon’s interior concept, Thomas Hills says,

When I opened TH1 Hair, I set out to create a London–style salon in the suburbs, with all the style, sophistication and glamour of a central London location. “What we’ve executed is—we feel—exactly what a contemporary, quietly confident metropolitan–style space, with a taste of London, in the leafy and peaceful surroundings of Surrey.”

IMAGES COURTESY OF THOMAS HILLS

TH1 facts—visit th1hair.co.uk ADDRESS

TELEPHONE

27 Station Road, Oxted, Surrey RH8 0BD

01883 713680 NUMBER OF STAFF

8


SALON SPOTLIGHT

Charlie Miller

Eye-popping, art deco light fittings, seven-foot Italian porcelain tiles, burnished brass finishes and mounted pieces of Charlie Miller MD, Jason Miller (@artjasonmiller), welcomes you into the newly refurbished Charlie Miller salon. Nestled in Edinburgh’s west end, Charlie Miller’s new, 5-star refit provides clients with an innovative and intimate salon environment. For 54 years, Charlie Miller has focused on providing modern hairdressing and superior client service in luxurious spaces— embodied by the refit. Thirty–seven years after first opening its doors and 18 years on from the last refit, managing directors, Jason and Joshua Miller employed the services of acclaimed interiors designer and longtime friend Ian Smith to modernize its Stafford Street Georgian townhouse salon. His company, Ian Smith Design was set up in 2003 and has gone from strength to strength—becoming one of only two Scottish companies to be included in the UK top 100. “We’re always looking at shop fits and art and we gradually built it together. We liked the idea of adding a little bit colour with the soft pinks and the burnish gold and brass finishes. We wanted the salon to feel modern and classy but have a hint of luxury to it that wasn’t over the top,” Charlie Miller MD, Jason Miller told us. The refit took five weeks to complete but was a process that gutted the salon. The team raised the ceiling by four feet to create

the airy, spacious setting fit for the ornate lighting. The stunning light features, made for Ian Smith Design, are a mid-century Sputnik design cast in antique brass with a mixture of brass and opaque glass globes. The soft pink furnishings of the reception offer clients comfort on the amethyst mohair-covered sofa and chairs, designed by and made for Ian Smith Design. Individualism—alongside beautiful hair and exceptional service—has always been top of the Charlie Miller agenda. This has carried over to every minute detail, such as the bespoke mirrors, created by Ian Smith. Designed to sit off the walls, allowing for a discreet LED strip to be placed behind each mirror to give off a warm halo of light. The brass edging is burnished to create a dull gold finish, completes the customised design that adds a creative trim and protects the mirror—a motif seen throughout the reception area and the balustrade to the stair. In terms of Charlie Miller’s gorgeous salon furniture, each station is fitted out with the timeless, modernist Takara Belmont Adria II hydraulic styling chairs and Maletti’s ‘Modern’ wash units designed by Philippe Starck, which offer luxury and at the backwash and can be adjusted and tailored to the client’s personal


79

Charlie Miller Hair Products Charlie Miller officially launched their own range of products last December, knowing that the bar for in–salon brands is set high so, they took two years to develop and perfect the collection of products with more due to be released in their styling range next year. Jason Miller told SalonNV they are working on where to take the range next. • You can pick up the products at charliemillerhaircare.com preference—all provided by Hair & Beauty World. One aspect of the process that doesn’t get talked about as much is how you budget for a refit. Refits are expensive, there are no two ways about it but this new interior looks to see Charlie Miller for the next 10 to 15 years.

You start with an idea with a budget, then double it and try and come back a bit. You come back a bit because you get back down to reality and then you get surprises, there’s always that extra bit to do something that takes you that little bit further. You’re building it to last and you write off the cost over a number of years like any business. IMAGES COURTESY OF CHARLIE MILLER

Charlie Miller facts—visit charliemiller.com BRANCHES

13 Stafford Street, Edinburgh, EH3 7BR 0131 226 5550 Ocean Terminal, Edinburgh, EH6 6JJ 0131 555 1711

8 South St Andrew Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2AZ 0131 556 9898 39 Frederick Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1EP 0131 225 1141 ESTABLISHED

2 Colinton Road, Edinburgh, EH10 5DN 0131 447 0099

1965 STAFFORD ST OPENED

1971


Quality and style—can you afford not to?

FOUR Hair & Beauty World locations | Aberdeen | Ayr | Dunfermline | Paisley

01224 561440 01292 285050 01383 730505 0141 887 2167

SALON EQUIPMENT SPECIALISTS | Peter Dever 07825 910295 peter@hairandbeautyworld–uk.com | Sean McDonough 07870 221858 sean@salonalternatives.co.uk


81

Columns | Gemma Willock–Smith

Gravitate to the clipper Gemma shares her tips on professional development

C

utting hair is such a beautiful way to live our lives. We are such lucky people and I’m sure most of you agree. Even on our worst days, after being with a client or two, getting to be creative, making them feel good and finding out about what they have been up to brightens up our day. I started my journey as a Saturday girl, originally wanting to be a firefighter and fell in love with the lifestyle in hair salons. As my skills developed, I very quickly gravitated to trying new shapes, styles and tones. When I felt competent in each skill I had been working on, I very quickly always wanted more and still do. I was about two years into hairdressing when I was intrigued by clipper skills and patterned shapes in hair, and that was my new challenge. I put myself in places that allowed me to hone in on anything I felt developing at the time and that eventually took me to a modern barbershop for men and women—which is the perfect fit for myself. I now own a business called Frequency Barber with a similar concept. This allows me to be creative in all aspects of cutting hair. There’s nothing we don’t do, from hair extensions and

When I first ventured into the barbershop environment, I had lots of ups and downs. balayage to fades and hair tattooing. I had done gents and short–haired ladies in the past but realised very quickly I had a lot to learn. I would watch my clients up the reception and know they weren’t as good as my colleagues’ clients beside them, this gave me major anxiety, but also motivated me to push myself. I came in early and stayed late bringing in models to practise on with help from a few of

my colleagues and my boss at the time and very quickly the anxiety disappeared and I have never stopped doing this. ‘Practise makes perfect’, that old saying couldn’t be truer for my story. If you own a salon and have staff that are interested in learning barbering skills or are interested yourself—there are many platforms to obtain them now that make it easy for you to work around your current working life. You are very lucky because the modern barbering era is here and education can be reached through the platform of social media. I think the best direction to go down is to take a little course with a reputable brand or barber—one–day in–salon even. Then make the time to practise what you’ve learnt, continuously studying and using available information. Some of this information is available on YouTube channels in step–by–step technique videos, books and events. Then use these platforms like social media to show your followers—and get new followers—what you are doing to find people that are happy to let you keep developing with their hair. This will also increase your clientele and revenue. That’s what I do and it works for me, so I see no reason why it wouldn’t work for anyone else. If you want to learn something new to build your skills, I suggest you start now if you haven’t already, life is too short to sit about and wait for it to come to you.


82

Columns | Michael Moran

‘Tis the season to be busy Michael relishes a busy festive period—and so should you

N

ever has the phrase “fail to prepare, prepare to fail” been more appropriate than Christmas in the hairdressing trade. Here at Pele, we have been making foils of all different sizes for the last few weeks in anticipation of another busy Christmas season—if we have any down time at all, that’s what we have been up to. It goes without saying that it’s a highly successful time of year in the salon and it’s also a time where you need every member of staff firing on all cylinders in terms of their attendance, work ethic, attitude and teamwork. It’s also a perfect opportunity to showcase some beautiful hair–up work or big bouncy blow–drys on clients who might normally shy away from eye–catching looks.

Now is the time for us all to brush up on our skills and enjoy it rather than be anxious about it. It’s vital we try to rebook every client before they leave, no matter what time of year they visit our salons. However, Xmas time is peak opportunity to catch some new clients so spend

that wee bit extra time with them then get them booked back in. There needs to be no complaints from any staff about being asked to start early or work later than normal as it’s an exceptional few weeks in business and don’t forget, it really is (unfortunately) only a few weeks. In my experience the Xmas business is unrecognisable from what it used to be, for example, say 10 years ago. Back then, clients would come into salons more seasonally—for example, Xmas then Easter, then summer then September weekend —with the odd occasional visit in between. This gave a false impression that the festive period was mobbed from December 1st right through until Christmas Eve when in reality, the salon had been dead since September weekend. Nowadays, I feel clients are far more conscientious about their hair and regardless of what time of year it is, they want good hair. This means that we are seeing clients possibly two or three times more throughout the year—which clearly is good business. On that note, I hope everyone has a successful Xmas and New Year.


83

Columns | Emil McMahon

2020 Vision Emil talks about planning for the upcoming year

W

OW, I can’t quite believe that 2019 is coming to an end and by now we should all be in the midst of planning our 2020 strategies. This year has been a challenge for everyone. Uncertainty over our future, be it Brexit or IndyRef2—or both—the continued decline of the high street and the ever– increasing challenges online shopping brings businesses. With clients re–visiting salons—the national average is now eight weeks— and re– bookings sitting at 40 per cent, it’s no wonder salon owners have sleepless nights and probably can’t even think about 2020. Every aspect of business life is being challenged and chances are it’s not going to get easier any time soon. So I’m here to say to this to every salon owner who is struggling from a lack of inspiration and self–motivation:

Wake up with determination, go to bed with satisfaction. Remember why you set up your business? Think back to those exciting moments when you signed the lease, met with the shop– fitters, created your dream environment and then recruited like–minded individuals to work alongside you. Along the way, you will have had moments where you wondered why you had taken such a big step, but you sailed through and the good times and bad times all became a part of your daily life because that’s the reality of owning a business. However, times are difficult now—your lease may have increased drastically or your salon may be in need a refit. Some of your team members may have moved on and the street you are on might not be as vibrant as it once was. You can’t change the heavy burdens of self– employed life, but you can change your mindset to be more positive, and as we know, positivity breeds positivity, so I say it again—wake up with determination, go to bed with satisfaction.

Create your salon’s 2020 vision by analysing what you can change and what you can’t. Once you know what can be done, then create a plan of action that focusses on time frames—what can be done immediately, what needs more time and what might be a long–term goal. If there are financial implications then sit down with an expert who can help you look at your P&L—I guarantee after meeting with someone who understands cash flow, you will go to bed with satisfaction and wake up with determination. Shying away from planning your 2020 vision will only send your business one way—on a downward trajectory. Look at what you have achieved, learn from it and create a bold vision for the future of your salon and team. Once you have geared yourself up to face the future with renewed vigour, your team will join with you, and together you will create a salon that has renewed passion and vigour and an overriding desire to succeed. Your 2020 vision is in your very capable hands. • Emil McMahon offers bespoke in salon education, one to one coaching and social media management. Call 07885 985843, visit emilmcmahon.com or contact emil_mcm@ hotmail.com.


84

Education

Training Courses

Better yourself or learn a new skill with some of the best training events and seminars available in the UK. NOVEMBER 2019

04

Schwarzkopf Professional ASK Academy seminars: Endless Colour Creativity with Dylan Brittain

MANCHESTER This course will help you to deepen your colour palette and learn new mixes from some of our exciting ranges of BlondMe, Colorworx and the IGORA family. Price: £300 | Book online at skpevents.co.uk/ ASK–Academy–2020 or call 01442 278000.

04 – 08

Toni&Guy Education: Master Highlighting Two

LONDON, MANCHESTER & EDINBURGH This course is ideal for those who have completed Beginner’s Highlighting ONE and have gained some knowledge in learning the art of highlighting which is still one of the most popular colouring techniques carried out in the salon. Throughout this course, you will progress from block–work to live models creating beautiful, seamless highlights working on alternative angles and directions to produce fast and efficient highlighting results. Equipment required: Pintail comb, jumbo comb, clips, hairdryer, round brush, paddle brush and apron. Price: £525+VAT | Call 020 7836 0606 to book.

04 NOV ONWARDS

Salon System Marvel– Lash Eyelash Extensions

VARIOUS SALON SYSTEM LOCATIONS THROUGH THE UK Salon System’s Marvel–Lash technique is one of the fastest growing treatments you can offer & will ensure long term profitability for your salon. A simple & effective procedure to thicken & lengthen lashes with immediate results that will last up to 2 months. This course is suitable for complete beginners & for those wishing to update their skills. Price: £160+VAT | Book online at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/training.

07 NOV – 18 DEC

Hybrid Eyelash Extensions Training Course

VARIOUS THE BEAUTY ACADEMY LOCATIONS THROUGH THE UK Our Hybrid Eyelash Extensions Course will teach you how to safely and successfully perform the Hybrid Lash method using express volume eyelash extensions. Hybrid Lashes involves applying a 50/50 mix of 1 to 1 classic lashes and pre–made fanned, volume lashes. A great additional service for existing lash techs to offer a more affordable treatment to clients. During the course you will carry out treatments upon a professional training mannequin head allowing you the maximum time possible to acquire the skills and work upon your technique. Price: £199 | Book online at thebeautyacademy. org/product.

11

Goldwell Master Series: Elumen Mastery

EDINBURGH This course will help you discover endless possibilities to amaze your clients with dazzling shine, incredible durability and evenness of a permanent colour with ammonia. Price: £75 | Call 020 3540 1200 to book.

13

Goldwell Master Series: Balayage Ombre Fusion

LONDON Looking for new techniques, ideas and inspiration? Want to perfect the art of balayage? Do you strive to create a soft sweeping beautiful sun–kissed blonde? During this one– day seminar, Goldwell will show you quick and easy techniques to help you gain confidence and create this look time and time again. Price: £175 | Book online at goldwell.co.uk/ education.

18

Goldwell Master Series: Elumen Mastery

CARDIFF, YEOVIL & BEDFORD This course will help you discover endless possibilities to amaze your clients with dazzling shine, incredible durability and evenness of a permanent colour with ammonia. Price: £75 | Call 020 3540 1200 to book.


85 19 NOV – 02 DEC

18

TIGI: Corrective Colour

LONDON This one–day course focuses on bringing a simplified approach to salon corrective colour work. Understand how to perform a corrective hair assessment, client consultation and achieve great results using TIGI’s colour ranges. Successful completion of Fundamental Colour is required prior to attending this course. Price: £250 | Email uk.education@tigi.com for more information and to book.

18 – 22

Toni&Guy Education: Salon Foundation | Cutting

LONDON This course has been created to upgrade, strengthen and improve your core cutting techniques. Suitable for all: from stylists in the final stages of training who wish to gain more confidence in their skills; stylists wanting to perfect specific elements of their education, and for aspiring salon staff trainers who wish to learn fundamental cutting techniques—our aim is to reinforce your confidence and to grow and develop your current abilities. Price: from £90–£1,600+VAT, depending on length of course chosen | Call 020 3540 1200 to book.

19

L’Oréal Professionnel: Sophia Hilton Balayage Course

EDINBURGH On this course you will not only learn which balayage technique to use on which client but also what to do when you do not have the perfect base. Sophia will show you how to combat previous highlights, colour corrections, banding – all of which can get in the way of your perfect balayage. This course teaches you everything you need to know about the perfect balayage: from how to prepare the hair ready for the balayage application, through to all the problems you come against in real life. Price: £300 | Book online at lorealaccess. com/uk/learn.

ASP Power Set Acrylic System Conversion Course

NORTHAMPTON An intensive 2–day nail conversion workshop for existing nail technicians who want to learn a new system – Power Set Acrylic. Students are required to have previously obtained an acrylic certification. Please bring along your certificate on the day. Price: £160+VAT | Book online at salon– services.com/training.

19 NOV – 02 DEC

ASP In Control & T3 LED Hard Gel System Conversion Course

NORTHAMPTON An intensive 2–day nail conversion workshop for existing nail technicians who want to learn a new system – In Control Hard Gel application incorporating T3 Self Levelling. Students are required to have previously obtained a hard gel certification. Please bring along your certificate on the day. Price: £160+VAT | Book online at salon– services.com/training.

DECEMBER 2019

02

Gellux Gel Polish Course

BELFAST, LONDONDERRY, NORTHAMPTON, NORWICH, PLYMOUTH, POOLE & WEYMOUTH Welcome to polish that stays so perfect it’s like a luxury manicure every day! Learn how to increase your business with Gellux 30–second gel polish which includes custom colour blending and seasonal trend techniques. Students are required to have previously obtained a manicure certification. Please bring along your certificate on the day. Price: £75+VAT | Book online at salon– services.com/training.

16

Gellux Gel Polish Course

ABERDEEN This course is perfect for a beginner or an industry professional wishing to add tanning to their existing services, plus learn the on–trend body contouring technique. Other locations and dates are available online throughout the year. Price: £100+VAT | Book online at salon– services.com/training.


“Our industry is going through a huge shift with so many stylists taking control of their careers... I see this being a new standard in freelance hairdressing, offering a whole new avenue of revenue for stylists and salon owners alike.� Jonathan Andrew, Hairdresser


New to e–chair.com e-chair.com is an online platform for chair and space rental at the forefront of revolutionising how freelance hair and beauty professionals work. Check out the latest salons with space to rent on e-chair.com now.

MD BEAUTY LOUNGE GLASGOW

NEGOTIABLE

MD’s Beauty Lounge in Glasgow is the newest go–to hair and beauty destination. They have chairs to rent in a brand new stunning city centre salon on Bath Street. They use the best products, and have chairs available with and without products. We have 2 salon chairs, 1 nail station and 1 MUA space available. CONTACT MUNA: 07543 750858

MICHAEL JANE NOTTING HILL, LONDON

£450 PER WEEK

Our treatment rooms are based in a busy street. It is really easy to build a clientele and have walk-in clients. We would ideally like physiotherapist, massage therapist, beauty therapist, aesthetic practitioner or nails technician. Treatment beds, beauty trolleys, manicure tables and pedicure chairs. CONTACT: 07447 954967

HIDDEN HEIGHTS STUDIO GATESHEAD

£120 PER WEEK

Hidden Heights is an inspiring workplace allowing you and your brand to grow independently. It offers ambitious individuals in the fields of hair, barbering and makeup a collaborative space to create their work and embrace the freelancer community. Visit hiddenheightsstudio.com to find out more. CONTACT FOR MORE DETAILS: 0191 477 4368

NEUTON NEWINGTON, LONDON

£POA

We have available a chair to hire for a Hairdresser that wants to be more independent, who already established a follower or larger follower base and wants to serve in a professional environment, wants flexibility with schedule but is not yet in a position to open his\her own salon. We’d also like you to be someone who looks after the salon as well as your colleagues working at Neuton, so an independent team-player is the best way to describe who we are looking for. Rent by negotiation. CONTACT DANI: NEUTONHAIRSALON@GMAIL.COM

Work anytime, anywhere, any place #yourrules

Join today at e-chair.com


Louise Ballantine

In The

Chair

Louise Ballantine, the owner of LUX Salon in Glasgow’s southside, has just been crowned as Best Makeup Artist at the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards. Primarily a wedding makeup specialist, Louise is a SHABA veteran and in 2019 has finally entered the Awards history books! SalonNV spoke with Louise on her win, her advice for young MUAs and defending her title at #SHABAX. HOW DID IT FEEL TO WIN AT SHABA? Amazing, I thought I must be dreaming, it didn’t sink in until the next morning. I’ve entered quite a few times before and got to the finals, which is amazing but I’ve never won. You get to the stage where you think you won’t win and it’s not the best attitude to have, but there are so many talented people in the industry.

HOW DID YOU GET YOUR START IN THE INDUSTRY? I entered the industry straight from school. I studied at Clydebank College but I wanted to travel and do another course. I worked in a couple of office jobs to save up money to go to the US and do this further course. I came back and did so much unpaid work and freelancing, which you almost don’t need to do anymore— there are makeup artists popping up all over the shop—which is good.

Each issue, SalonNV brings you a short interview with one of the industry’s best. SPONSORED BY

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE LOOKS? I really love clean, glossy, more towards the natural side, but that isn’t all I do. I prefer more wearable looks, rather than bold colours.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE TRENDS THIS YEAR? The fluffy brow and lived–in skin have been around for a long time but has been pushed more and more this year, and will continue into next year.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PRODUCTS? My favourite brands are Charlotte Tilbury, Hourglass and NARS—that’s primarily what I use. If I had to choose one brand and use everything from that brand it would be Charlotte Tilbury—I bow down to that woman.

WHAT KIND OF ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO YOUNGER MAKEUP ARTISTS? Try and get as much practice as you can, in your field, before you put yourself out there. I didn’t go in for awards straight away because I didn’t want to be disheartened and not win. Be confident in yourself and your skill, but I would research and practice what you want to achieve, then put yourself forward for what you want.

WILL YOU DEFEND YOUR TITLE NEXT YEAR? I would love to! I’m going to try and be positive, but I feel it’s someone else’s turn.


The Social, London now on e-chair.com

Help your business reach its full potential 1. List your space on e-chair.com 2. Connect with freelancers in your area 3. Profit from filling your empty chairs “e-chair.com has opened the world of chair hire to the 21st century. Fast, efficient and pleasing on the eye - a lot like our members and their clients. Things won't be the same after this!” Adam Sloan, CEO of MHFED “As a salon owner, the ease of use is what I really love about e-chair.com. Whether you’re booking or letting, the simplicity of e-chair.com makes it a pleasant experience and so much quicker. Everyone will love this!” Alan Findlay, Owner, Rebel Rebel

Work anytime, anywhere, any place #yourrules

Join today at e-chair.com


SHE BANGS | Anna Barroca

Strong, defined, colourful – these are the characteristics at the core of this collection. Bangs that define and accentuate the face, displaying personality and highlighting the versatility that this style provides. Short, cropped hair with plenty of layering and differing frontal techniques feature heavily in this collection.

PHOTOGRAPHY

David Arnal MAKEUP

Wilder RodrĂ­guez STYLIST

Aaron Gil HAIR

Anna Barroca


Profile for Gallus Media

SalonNV Issue 28  

SalonNV Issue 28  

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