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Inspiring UK & Ireland Barbering success

Issue 14.

£5 €6.50 $6.50


kevin boon






News | Products | EVENTS | Features | EDUCATION

Welcome Simon Ritchie


We’ve always been a champion of Great British talent here at BarberNV so it was fantastic to support three barbers from the UK at the International Barber Awards in Germany. It was the first year of this truly global event and we hope to see even more British barbers entering it next year. There’s few things like it in the barbering world and it’s a fantastic opportunity to meet other barbers from so many different countries – we made many new friends and we look forward to telling some of their stories in future editions of the magazine. Naturally we decided to focus on Germany in this issue. Their barbering scene is in its infancy but with events like the International Barber Awards taking root there, we’re sure it won’t be long before we see the first superstar barber from the country. Our old friend the Nomad Barber even has a shop in Berlin now and it was great to catch up with him about his latest travels and discuss the German scene. Not every country has had the same barbering boom as the UK has had in the past few years, but in most you can see it coming. The rise of social media means barbers are going mainstream and it’s now commonplace for big companies

to snap up certain influencers to help flog their products. It can be a lucrative role so we spoke with a few of them about how they got into their enviable positions. There was also a big competition win closer to home, with Kilian Maddison becoming the HJ Men’s Barber of the Year with victory at Salon International. He’s a young barber with a bright future, having already been given the responsibility of running Danny & Co’s Uppermill store. Who knows, maybe we’ll see him challenging in Germany next year? We have a bit of a break from competition season over Christmas but with the festive season rush there won’t be much time to recharge so hopefully you all make the most of it and make a lot money! As we’re all aware, there’s usually a bit of a lull in January so if you are forced to work all Christmas, hopefully you get to spend some time with your family and friends in the New Year. Until then, enjoy and Merry Christmas!

Simon Ritchie Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Graphic Designer Ross Stewart | Sales & Marketing Executive Connie Neil | Assistant Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Editorial Support Matthew McLaughlin Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists Alan Findlay | Thanks Alison Jameson Consultants, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, B TheAgency, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Barber Council, British Barbers’ Association, British Master Barbers International Barber Awards, 1o1 Barbers, Jacks Of London, American Crew, The B.O.M.B Squad, Alan Findlay, Danny & Co, Gary Jackson, Nick Taylor, Lumberjack Inc, Tom Chapman, Denman, Taylor Taylor, Red Hot Products, Wahl, Reuzel, Barber Equipment Centre, Cool Blades, Snip A Man, Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Joseph Lanzante, Nestor Demosthenous. Cover Image: Kevin Boon, Photographer: Benedikt Walther Pictures Shutterstock | Published by Gallus Print & Digital Media, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and Gallas Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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industry NEWS


34 Kevin boon

auld reekie beardfest


38 Felix Heck

temple of groom.


nick taylor on tour


editor’s choice




40 Jürgen Niederl 44 Nomad Berlin 46 Snip A Man 48 Kyle Ross 52 alan findlay

APPAREL 20 54 Christmas Gift Guide combs & brushes 21 58 Kilian Maddison Furniture & equipment


germany 26

international barber


60 Ambassadors 68 Interiors




Contents Issue 14

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Top award for Irish barber ST4MEN barber Chris O’Riordan took home the top men’s prize at the Alternative Hair Show in London this October. The Killarney barber wowed the judges for the International Visionary Award with his cut on model Adam O’Connor.

Tickets available for Beard Championship After the sell out success of Scotland’s first beard and moustache competition earlier this year the Braw Beard and Moustache Championship is back in 2018. Braw Beard Oil and Liverbeards have teamed up once again to celebrate the fullest and most bountiful display of facial hair Scotland has to offer.

grow a beard themselves but want to get creative with whatever they can find at hand.

Competition spaces are open now for anyone looking to enter, with all takers welcome and places are already filling up with competitors coming from Germany, the Netherlands and Austria.

As well as the championships there will be a live band which is yet to be confirmed.

The categories for next years tournament include ‘Best Moustache’, ‘Best Freestyle’, ‘Best Ginger Beard’ and ‘Best Fake/ Creative Beard’ - something for those can’t

The championships will be held on Saturday 24 February 2018 at Glasgow’s Drygate Brewery with their incredible facilities including bar, Restaurant, Bottle Shop, Beer Hall, Terrace.

Tickets are available now for both attendees and competitors over at: Brawbmc.bigcartel.com For more information on Scotland’s original beard and moustache competition visit: thebrawbmc.com

GBBA teams up with Andis Andis has announced a partnership with the Great British Barbering Academy which will see the prestigious UK academy use only the highest quality Andis tools in the delivery of its course programme. From January 2018, GBBA educators will deliver courses using Andis tools exclusively, as well as using them at events and trade shows. As part of its cours programme, the GBBA is presenting two exclusive Andis courses, both of which are

VTCT approved: The Andis Clipper and Beard Day, and The Andis & The Bluebeards Revenge Advanced Barbering – Fades and Blades. Andis Education Manager Jessica Zeinstra said about the partnership: “It brings together three key elements essential to great barbering: education, tools, and product. We are excited to join forces with the GBBA and The Bluebeards Revenge and look forward to an effective partnership.”

‘Shear’ delight for young footie stars in Jacks link-up

NHF give out barber photographic awards James Beaumont and Melissa Timperley took home the top male crowns in the NHF’s Photography Stylist of the Year competition. There were five categories for entrants to showcase their styling skills through the creation of a stunning visual image, suitable for a magazine front cover. James, of Allure Hair and Beauty in Exmouth, won for his Male Fashion Collection while Melissa, of Melissa Timperley Salons in Manchester, won for her Male Fashion Look. NHF president Agnes Leonard commented: “The Photographic Stylist of the Year competition continues to inspire stylists to create exceptional visual imagery. This year’s entries did not disappoint – our expert panel of judges were in awe!”

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Fancy footwork teamed up with some silky scissor skills this month as top south London barber group Jacks of London sealed its sponsorship of top Battersea football youth team, Caius House FC, with a complimentary grooming session. The Caius House Under-15s, currently riding high in the top division of the London County Saturday Youth League, were resplendent in their eye-catching new strip and their equally stand-out haircuts after a

celebratory signing session at Jacks recently opened store in St John’s Road, Clapham. Meanwhile, the Under-23s of the Adults 1st team are also celebrating in style, after receiving their new all-yellow kit featuring the iconic Jacks of London logo. The team won promotion and the Donovan Thomas Cup in 2016-17 – their first season – and are currently on a six-game winning streak that is laying the groundwork of another equally successful performance this year.

Warren Blair Photography


COMPETITION UK and Ireland only To win your very own TitanicDenim apron answer the following question...

y Belfast Cit s Airport wa fter renamed a l legend which loca in 2006?

Stand out from the crowd with a completely unique and fully bespoke barber’s apron made from 100% recycled denim. Having grown up living in a truly rock ’n’ roll family, with a father in a band alongside Van Morrison and brother in his own rock band, founder of TitanicDenim Marie Nancarrow has always embraced a rebellious lifestyle and now her attention has been turned to the barbering trade. A close friend of last issue’s cover star Garry Jackson, Marie attended BarberCut Dublin and was blown away by the atmosphere and camaraderie of our industry. After speaking with a number of barbers at the event, Marie was delighted with the feedback for her idea of offering artisan aprons that will be truly one of a kind. Now her idea has become a reality. Each TitanicDenim apron is made from recycled denim, whether that was a pair of designer jeans or a jacket, so no two items are ever the same. Garry’s Barbershop was among the first customers and are now all kitted out in their stunning TitanicDenim aprons, and we’re delighted to offer you the chance to win one for yourself, and personalised with your shop name or logo, just by answering a simple question. Worth £100, it’ll set you apart from the rest of your barbershop, although we can’t promise that your colleagues won’t go out and buy them also!

Message us on Instagram (@barbernvmagazine) with the answer for a chance to win! BarberNV Magazine | 5

Gettin Beardy inAuld Reekie

Following on from the success of the Granite City Beard and Moustache Competition in Aberdeen, Lumberjack Inc. took the Scottish east coast’s only celebration of the hirsute down to the capital Edinburgh.


ordes of hairy men, and plenty of slightly less hairy women, flocked to the Village Hotel on Sunday 29th October to take part in a day of contests and merrymaking. An event that doesn’t take itself too seriously, it was a great chance for the crowds to engage with likeminded people, or take up the chance for a haircut from one of the country’s best barbers. Fresh from his victory at the International Barber Awards in Germany where he was crowned the UK’s best, Kyle Ross of Huntsman Barbers in Aberdeen travelled down for the day, offering haircuts in exchange for donations to Cash for Kids. Joining him were Angela Dickson, Steven Fotheringham, and Charley Thomson of Orbit Smoke Barbers, Jamie Hamilton of Cutthroat J’s, Dianne Philbin of recently opened Ringside Barbers, and Jarek Rak of JR Creations. Brian Wade provided the pop-ups and other items as the print sponsor. Altogether they raised over £650 for a great cause.

The barbers kept the competing bearded gentleman looking their best before the big events as well. On offer – Auld Reekie Beardfest trophies and medals handmade by organiser Scot Thompson, founder of Lumberjack Inc. and fierce friend of all fuzzy fellows. While the competitors strutted their stuff, a host of local stalls kept spectators entertained – as did the bar – and Alba Customs motorcycle dealership even brought along a stunning Harley Davidson! To top it all off, a couple of special guests made an appearance. Whether you prefer football or rugby, there was something for everyone with local Hibs legend Kevin Thomson and the greatest Scottish rugby player of all time, Gavin Hastings, handing out trophies and charity prizes. A great time was had by all, so we can’t wait for the next one which we hear may be moving down south to Newcastle… That’ll be a quiet night in at the library!

Best Freestyle- Scott Ballantyne. Shit Beard- Jamie Hamilton Best Moustache- Simon Whitby Brown Best Long Beard- Davie Wallace Best Short Beard- Gordon Reed

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Images - Pictures in Blood BarberNV Magazine | 7

The Temple of Groom Tour

With Schorem Barbier

resh from her win at the Barberella competition as featured in BNV13, Taylor Leven joined the scumbag barbers of Schorem on a special tour of Asia as part of her prize. Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka, Hong Kong, and Shanghai were all on the itinerary as the Bearded Bastard and Bloody Butcher took their unique slant on barbering to the Far East. With special guests including Sofie Pok and Matt Conrad joining them at various stops on the way, it was a truly one of a kind tour.


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Images - Jelle Mollema

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Nick Taylor on tour with American Crew

Nick Taylor

Nick Taylor is one of the current custodians of the century-old Taylor Taylor barbershops in Sheffield, as well as a senior member of the American Crew global education team. Through his role with American Crew, Nick travels the world teaching new methods and techniques to barbers at educational events. In the past year he’s been Edmonton, Canada The team at American Crew and Revlon in Canada got in touch with me to go over and host a 15-year celebration for one of their biggest clients, The Men’s Room in Edmonton. It’s an incredible barbershop from owner Donna Beyak and co-owner Adelai Romphf - 2,000sq ft. of total male grooming. They do everything from haircuts, shaving, massages, and all other men’s treatments so I jumped at the chance, heading on a flight over to Canada via Reykjavik, Iceland. Working alongside me on the trip is Al Urbanowski who owns the iconic Al’s Barbershop in downtown Denver. I’ve worked alongside Al in the past so it’s great to catch up with him. He’s one of the original All Star Educators who worked from day one with American Crew Founder David Raccuglia so he brings a wealth of experience to the team. Al and I hosted the event for all the staff of The Men’s Room where we demonstrated some of the latest American Crew looks for them and organised a photo shoot for the staff to show off their work. The standard was absolutely fantastic – the all-female staff had previously been through the American Crew education platform so we all worked to the

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teaching in: Gothenburg, Sweden; Dublin, Ireland; and even cut and styled the hair backstage for the Revlon Style Masters show in Brussels in front of 4,000 people. His latest trips took him to Edmonton, Canada, Istanbul, Turkey, and Northern Cyprus and he kept a diary to give BarberNV readers a taste of his educational journey.

same system. It was great for me and Al to be there and help to inspire them to create something original. It was a real chance to celebrate how well The Men’s Room has been doing. It’s a fantastic shop – so huge and offering so many services. On the last day of the trip I even took a column in the shop to get a feel for how the business runs over here. It was interesting to see they dealt with many of the same problems as we have in Sheffield, whether it be employing the right staff or just the general running of the shop. Although I was kept busy throughout our four days in Edmonton, I had a chance to go out for dinner downtown and check out some of the sights. It’s a massive, spacious place and was fantastic to visit. I had to say goodbye to Al, but I’ll be seeing him again soon enough, as every year American Crew bring all their educators out for a week-long retreat where we learn about the latest American Crew education and what we’ll be teaching over the upcoming year. From the new collection to working on our presentation skills, American Crew invest heavily in ensuring we are up to date and the best we can be.

Istanbul, Turkey and Northern Cyprus I barely had my feet back on the ground in Sheffield before it was time for another trip. I was asked by the Turkish distributors of American Crew to go to Istanbul and Northern Cyprus with 40 of their top customers, all barbers from Istanbul, for two days of education. I would do a look and learn presentation day in the hotel where I’d be cutting on stage all day, talking about the latest American Crew products, the new collection, and the education we provide to get them really behind the brand. The day couldn’t have gone any better, although it was quite nerve wracking at first as I had to speak through a translator! It’s an interesting experience, difficult to start with but once you start working in sync with each other you get a hang of it. You learn not to say too much in one go and with everyone firing questions at me on the stage it was very helpful. What was really interesting was that at certain parts of the day there were big debates going on about how I was doing things, what equipment I was using, everything. Although these barbers were all top barbers from Turkey and all experts

in cutting hair they weren’t used to how I do things with American Crew; the different sectioning patterns, the tools and techniques, the freehand stuff. It caused lots of debate amongst themselves and questions to me, it was really enjoyable. I went and had a drink at the bar after and was mobbed by these guys trying to find out how I got into this and desperate to pick up more knowledge. I don’t think I’ve ever had so many pictures taken of me – I felt like a football player! American Crew don’t have an education team in Turkey yet so it’s likely there were people in that room who have the potential to do what I was doing and can go through the education platform to become knowledgeable in how to do it. It was a privilege to stand in front of those Turkish guys who are so good at what they do. They were showing me pictures of their shops and how fantastic they are. These were proper high end barbershops in Istanbul. I had a fantastic response from everyone and we all made friends with each other on social media – they were inviting me over to visit them in Turkey and talking about how keen they were to come to Sheffield and see Taylor Taylor.

The two trips were absolutely fantastic and allowed me to not only share American Crew’s way of doing things but also gain some knowledge myself on how barbering is progressing in different cultures. We already have over a dozen education classes booked in for next year with American Crew with plenty more to come both in the UK and abroad – not to mention Revlon Style Masters in Barcelona. Stay tuned and I’ll keep you all up to date with our trips.

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sh o w case

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e sh o w case sh

Aleksandr Kabanov beardpumper

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Photography: Desmond Murray MUA: Stefanija Vektere

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N E X U S c h r i s

f o s t e r

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Editor’s Comment We were delighted to finally get our hands on some King Brown goodies as the renowned Australian brand make it to the UK for the first time. They’re as good as we hoped they would be, so we’re sure they’ll be winning a new legion of British fans.

Dear Barber Shave Biscuit A rich shaving soap with a crisp finish, promoting a close and silky smooth shave. Lathers with a shaving brush and warm water to create a soft creamy texture. High quality results for professional use, but also a great product to sell in salons thanks to its unique design. £9.95 – dearbarber.co.uk

Kasho Damascus The maximum sharpness, hardness and durability of the edges is achieved using the renowned wear resistance V10 stainless steel alloy. The Damascus steel is then carefully layered on top to produce the beautiful Damascus patterning. A unique “flat screw” system with integrated ball bearing ensure a silky smooth operation. The convex and hollow ground blades are finely mirror polished. £937.50 – kashoscissors.co.uk

King Brown Premium Pomade Fresh from Down Under, King Brown have finally made it over to the UK. One of Australia’s most popular brands, their Premium Pomade has long been a favourite of importers, but now you can get it right here! With a medium hold and medium sheen, it’s designed for the greaser who likes the old school looks but prefers to rinse clean. Exclusively available at BD Distribution, for sales and support contact info@bddistribution.co.uk £7.50 – www.kingbrownpomade.com

Apothecary 87 Moustache Wax Keep that curled moustache in shape with this manly scented moustache wax from Apothecary 87. It has a firm hold but doesn’t sacrifice any ease of application and with beeswax that helps stimulate natural hair growth, your mo will be the talk of the town. £9 – apothecary87.co.uk

Editor’s ChoiceENVY 16 | BarberNV Magazine

label.men Sculpting Pomade Designed to control movement and hold hair without weighing it down. Mold, sculpt, and experiment to create your desired hair style with a natural shine finish. Waterbased so removes with ease. £11.75 – labelm.com

Murdock London Shave Cream This rich, luxurious shaving cream with evening primrose, borage, sunflower, green tea, and marshmallow helps moisturise your skin as you shave. The citrus-based oils of Murdock London’s Avalon Cologne are key to its lovely, fresh fragrance. £34 – murdocklondon.com

Mariner Jack Newfoundland Beard Balm Deep base notes of neroli, distilled from the blossom of the bitter orange tree brings sweet, green and spicy notes. This is delicately blended with patchouli, the powerhouse of the nature scents, to bring depth and a lingering sense of the outdoors. Both are rounded off with a fresh kick from pine needles to really lift the scent. £22.95 - marinerjack.co.uk

Morgan’s Beard Oil Morgan’s Beard Oil helps to soften and nourish the hair and skin beneath. The unique formulation contains essential oils of Indian Peppermint, Tea Tree and Mandarin to hydrate the skin and strengthen hair follicles, to promote a healthy beard that will grow faster, thicker and stronger. £16.50 – morganspomade.co.uk

Editor’s ChoiceENVY BarberNV Magazine | 17

Branca Men The OCD Classic Paste Moisture rich with a medium hold, there’s not much you can’t do with this Classic Paste. Adds a lovely shine to your work. $21 – brancamen.com

Clubman Pinaud Charcoal Peel-Off Face Mask Men’s treatments are more popular than ever and this effort from Clubman Pinaud deep cleans and unblocks pores as it softens and hydrates skin. The mineral-rich peel-off mask uses a natural blend of activated charcoal and Moroccan Ghassoul to draw out impurities and toxins. £20 – barberblades.co.uk

Keune 1922 by J.M. Keune After 95 years of leading the way in the women’s hair game, Keune have unleashed their very first men’s range. 1922 by J.M. Keune has the backing of a number of top educators from around the world and with 17 products ranging through everything from beard oils to pastes and pomades, they’re taking it seriously. Keune.com

L’Oreal Men Expert Barber Club Beard & Hair Styling Cream Get a product that can do both! Tackle hair all over the face and head with this styling cream from L’Oreal Men Expert. Formulated with natural cedar wood oil. Ideal for all-day beard control and definition with light hold. £6.66 – loreal-paris.co.uk

groomingENVY 18 | BarberNV Magazine

Sachajuan Matt Wax Build rough, supple hold for shorter styles where texture with no shine is desired. It can be used on dry hair or apply to wet hair for an even more visible matte effect when the hair dries. The soft hold makes it easy to restyle. £22 – feelunique.com

Osmo Grooming Tonic Designed to stimulate your clients’ scalps and refresh hair styles without weighing their hair down. Sporting a fantastic melon-fresh fragrance, this tonic benefits from an oil-free formula which adds to the lightness. £4.50 – coolblades.co.uk

Murdock London Beard Shampoo Keep facial hair fresh and clean by removing daily pollutants as you would with a normal shampoo. A range of ingredients help maintain and untangle beards, providing anti-static properties which reduce frizz through an indulgent leather. £20 – murdocklondon.com

Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS+ Sand Clay The styling range that has continued to push boundaries in the ‘I woke up like this’ look releases a product so gritty it is infused with actual kaolin sand. A pliable clay with a rough matte finish. £10.95 – Schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

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Mariner Jack Logo Sweatshirt They say that one mariner always recognises another from afar – well now there’s no excuses with this Mariner Jack logo sweatshirt. Proving to be one of the most popular items in the Jack clothing range, it’s 100% organic cotton. £48.95 – marinerjack.co.uk

Gonzo x Kenka Pride T-shirt A special collaboration between Gonzo of Malaysia and US AND THEM of Thailand, the inspiration behind the Kenka Pride t-shirt comes from the Japanese Bosozoku slogan “Kenka Joutou” which means “Bring it on!” £11 – gonzo.com.my

Suavecito Die Young Crewneck Sweatshirt Stay warm and look good doing it. Suavecito’s Die Young Sweatshirt is built to go with you on your adventures, making it a go-to piece of clothing for these winter months. Wear it by itself for cooler days or as a mid-layer piece on the coldest days. $40 – suavecito.com

Cutthroatpete Barber Store Tee The staple product in the ever-growing CTP range. With the Cutthroatpete official logo on the back of black t-shirt, with the instantly recognisable skull logo on the left breast. £20 – cutthroatpete.co

Captain Fawcett Barber Cape Made from the highest quality satin, with a fabric covered neoprene neck edged in cotton with chrome poppers to facilitate a precise snug fitting. The elegant CF monogram is printed in long lasting silicone. Arrives in a robust presentation box. £29 – captainfawcett.com

ApparelENVY 20 | BarberNV Magazine

Elegant Boar Brush Featuring an ergonomic handle that helps maintain control while styling, it’s gentle on delicate hair and the scalp. Detangles and grooms all hair types and lengthens with unique boar bristles that help to distribute oils from the scalp. £10 – biovea.com

Oster Anti-Static Barber Comb Designed with precision in mind, the strong anti-static polymer offers a smooth, ridge-free surface to achieve clean and precise cuts and styles. The tooth-spacing and tapered tip profiles help fell just the right amount of hair time after time. $2.50 – osterstyle.com

Cricket Radial Brush 8 Row Nobody wants static in their hair. Cricket has now solved this problem with their static-free brush collection. Static-free brushes eliminate fly-away hair with reinforced ‘stay-put’ ball tips and nonslip grips for maximum control and comfort. £4.74 – salonsdirect.com

YS Park G39 Guide Comb With all the features of the popular YS 399 comb plus an accurate measurement guide on the spine making it an ideal tool to check symmetry and length. Initially designed with education in mind, this comb has been hugely popular with stylists of all abilities as the guide also make a handy tool to enhance communication with the client during consultation. $52 – ysparkaustralia.com.au

Head Jog Bamboo Cutting Comb Bamboo is the world’s most versatile plant – as well as being deceptively light and strong, it contains a unique anti-bacterial agent. This cutting comb is produced with high-temperature and pressure carburizing, enhancing its shape retention and durability. £6 – barberblades.co.uk

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COMPETITION WINNER! REM Voyager The Voyager’s retro styling and thick sumptuous upholstery bring style and panache to the barbering environment. With a full reclining movement, powerful hydraulic pump, adjustable headrest, shave hooks and towel rail, the Voyager has it all. £935 + VAT - rem.co.uk

Captain Fawcett Disposable Blade Straight Razor For home and professional use, this indispensable tool is beautifully crafted and can serve as a great introduction to the world of wet shaving for those who haven’t yet taken the plunge, while the experience pro will appreciate its craftsmanship and design. £26 – captainfawcett.com

Matakki Condor Designed with an offset handle for super comfort and perfectly balanced posture, making point cutting a dream. Finished in a black Japanese Titanium steel with a super cool black gem tension screw for super quick tension adjustment. £250 – Matakki.com

Sibel Automatic EyeVac Vacuum Previously known as the Hairbuster, it includes an infrared sensor that turns the vacuum on to suck up the hair from the floor once you have swept the hair to the front of the unit, making it easy for the hair to disappear into the enclosed bin. Works great on all surfaces including tile, wood, and vinyl. It’s cheaper than a junior! £114 – directhairdressingscissors.co.uk

Furniture & equipmentENVY 22 | BarberNV Magazine

Congratulations to @juicyschopshop who is the winner of brand new Matakki ‘The Beast’ scissors worth £245 for correctly identifying the Beastie Boys as the rap group who released Intergalactic. Keep your eyes peeled for more chances to win in future issues.

Andis RAZR Pro Lather Machine Create a hot, thick lather to soften the toughest beards for easy, close shaving. With a quick 15-minute heat up and lather outlet designed to reduce countertop mess, it fits into salon life perfectly. $263.92 – barber-and-beauty.andis.com

Oster Heavy Duty 97 Clippers Built to outlast their competitors, these clippers are truly Heavy Duty. Powerful yet quiet and smooth running, the ten optional blade variations for versatile cutting mean it can handle whatever you throw at it. A real work horse of a product that will keep going as long as you do. £220 – barberblades.co.uk

Premier Hexagon Barber Mat Specifically developed to help in the relief of back pain, aching knees, tired legs, and sore feet, this is more than just a mat. The super resilient closed cell polymeric internal build of the mat provides exceptional buoyancy that reduces fatigue. £100 + VAT – barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk

REM Maverick Barber Unit With both cupboard and drawer storage, the REM Maverick Barber Unit comes with a large styling mirror and an optional link for multiple unit. Available in REM laminate and has an optional front wash barber basin. £1,055 + VAT – rem.co.uk

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Perry Lewis firstborn_p

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Hair: Jordi Pérez @ La Barberia de Gràcia Photographer: Sergi Jasanada MUA: La Barberia de Gràcia Costumes: Fermín & Gilles

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Just two years ago the first ever German Barber Awards took place. Now HAARE Nuremberg is hosting the International Barber Awards with hundreds of entrants from all over the world, culminating in a live day of cutting with barbers from 14 countries. It’s been a quick rise and shows the speed at which barbering is rising to prominence in Germany, a country which has never experienced the traditional barbershop in the way that the UK knows and loves. At the tip of the spear is Micha Birkhofer and the rest of the team at 1o1BARBERS, the country’s biggest barbering distributor and the key influence behind the International Barber Awards. Hosting qualifiers in various countries around Europe as well as the grand finale in Germany is no easy task but they’ve pulled it off with spectacular results. We have exclusive interviews with 1st, 2nd, and 3rd placed as well as the highest ranked UK barber in the competition. A few of the high profile judges also spoke with us about the event and how they hope it can grow even bigger next year. To round off our German coverage we also popped in to a couple of barbershops who are leading the way in growing the industry in the country, including a catch-up with the Nomad Barber about his latest worldwide travels and the work going on in his Berlin branch.

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Nomad Barbershop Kreuzberg Snip A Man Heilbronn


Nuremberg Heilbronn Durmersheim

International Barber Awards Nuremberg

Felix Heck Durmersheim

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Images: Benedikt Walther

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INTERNATIONAL BARBER AWARDs And the winner is... First, hundreds of barbers from around the globe submitted their work. Then, after months of qualifiers in various countries around Europe, featuring almost a hundred barbers cutting in the flesh to prove their skills, it all came down to this. 21 barbers from 14 countries. Three from the UK, some from as far away as Taiwan, in one day of sheer cutting craziness at the HAARE trade show in Nuremberg. With more than 14,000 hairdressers and barbers in attendance across the two-day event, it’s one of the biggest in the world and was the perfect stage for the inaugural International Barber Awards organised by 1o1BARBERS. Starting at nine in the morning the 21 expert barbers were split into three first round groups, with 12 spots in the semi-finals up for grabs. The three British barbers, Marty Walker of Northern Ireland, James Kirton of

England, and Kyle Ross of Scotland, were all split up so it was an intense morning as they strutted their stuff and spun their scissors on stage. Every barber had to perform a skinfade pompadour under the watchful eye of the jury. Unfortunately, James and Marty didn’t quite make it through to the semi-finals, although the judges were very complimentary about their skill level. That left Kyle Ross as the UK’s sole representative in the competition. Up next was the beard trim and facial treatment stage. As the International Barber Awards is all about finding the best all-round barber, every aspect of a barber’s trade is tested thoroughly. No one-cut wonder winning this crown – if you can’t do it all, you can’t win. It was to prove the final stage for Kyle who sadly didn’t advance to the final but you can check out our exclusive interview with the Aberdonian barber further on and see what he made of the competition. Into the grand final and it was a chance

for the barbers to let loose and impress the judges with a freestyle cut of their choice. Six barbers entered the stage but only one came out victorious – Kevin Boon of Belgium. Felix Heck of Germany and Jürgen Niederl of Austria came second and third respectively and you can read exclusive interviews with all three on the coming pages. A momentous event drew to an end with all involved delighted to be a part of history. While it may have been the first International Barber Awards, it certainly won’t be the last, with the event set to get even bigger and better next year. With the awards attracting media attention from as far afield as the United States, France, Belgium, Poland, the UK, Kosovo, Germany, and many, many more countries around the world, there’s plenty of reasons to get involved and help boost your brand. Keep your eye out for upcoming BarberNV issues where we will let you know how you can take part in the 2018 International Barber Awards.



Martin Walker

Ihab Iskandar

(Northern Ireland)


James Kirton

Marina Ulrich



Kyle Ross

Robin HĂśrauf



Tsevetelina Gergova

Raffaleo Russo



Andrei Hincu

Geoffrey Kvot



Ayoze Medina

Joel Blattner



Isabel Serra

JĂźrgen Niederl



Felix Heck

Michael Tews



Can Misirra

Kevin Boon



Arben Lumi

Nick Lee



Vlad Lapinskyi (Czech Republic)



Gio picked Kyle Ross as one barber who didn’t win but impressed him.

Gio TheNewKid

One of the notorious scumbag barbers of Rotterdam, Gio is no stranger to these awards, having been involved since the inaugural edition of the German Barber Awards back in 2015 and staying with them to be a judge at this year’s first International Barber Awards.

Gio was part of the team that put together the structure for this year’s event, ensuring that all competitors would be tested in every part of the barbering experience – no relying on your one good haircut to win, these barbers had to have it all. That’s why Gio was so keen to be involved. “I think if they had invited Schorem to a barber battle we wouldn’t have wanted that,” he explains. “We’re not the guys who want to be ‘the best barber’, we want the best service for the customer and the International Barber Awards tries to emulate that. It’s good for the barber world.” Bringing together contestants from all over the globe was no easy task, especially for a first time event, and Gio hopes it will continue to grow.

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“The standard should get even higher next year. Everyone was nervous and it was a lot of pressure for them. Overall it was a success as it brought a lot of media attention and everyone is very enthusiastic about it. “I hope next year a lot more people are going to come. Some people stepped out of the competition because they were afraid of having to do the qualification – normally with a barber battle you just send in photos and they get judged, having to do it live meant people were anxious but that’s a good thing. “I see this competition as a job interview. This is how I judged people – the lines have to be clean, no hairs in the ears, nose, that kind of stuff, it all has to be clean. The bar has to be high. It’s not like a barber competition, it’s a little bit more.” Gio picked Britain’s winner Kyle Ross as one of the competitors who impressed him most and Kyle was keen to get feedback from such a well-respected barber following the event, which Gio was more than happy to give. Learning from experienced professionals like Gio is just one of the benefits of taking part in the International Barber Awards.




Alessandro is a big fan of Andrei Hincu who took home the prize of Bulgaria’s Best Barber 2017.

Alessandro Bonetto Regular readers will be aware of Alessandro through our Showcase section, where his work has graced our pages several times over the past years. It’s not just us who have had their attention attracted by this Italian barber, with his international reputation growing by the day.

It came as no surprise to us then when Alessandro was called upon to judge the Internationa Barber Awards. And it was no surprise to Alessandro that the event was such a great success. “Micha Birkhofer of 1o1BARBERS asked me to be involved,” Alessandro tells us. “He explained to me the concept of the event and I liked it immediately. “The event was structured in the best way I have ever seen and the organisation was incredible. “The most impressive fact about the International Barber Awards was the huge number of participants and audience who came from all over the world to share their passion about barbering.” As one of the top barbers in Italy,

Alessandro is in a great position to judge the level of barbering we saw from all participants and he was impressed. He says: “The overall standard of the contest was amazing. They expressed a good knowledge of the craft as barbers. I truly think that the best way for them to improve their skills is working on technique, also all barbers need to become good hairdressers.” With a dozen countries participating at the International Barber Awards in Nuremberg, there was a variety of skills and styles on show, but Alessandro felt it was the barbers on home turf who excelled the most. “I was struck by the quality of the German barbers. There is a lot of potential in that country and a lot of skilled professionals. “I also liked the way that Andrei Hincu (Bulgaria’s Best Barber 2017) works on his models, but I think overall the quality of contestants was high.” And the winner? Alessandro is a fan. He says: “Kevin Boon is a great barber and he’ll have a bright future in the industry for sure. He has got a great technical approach, in particular on haircuts.”

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Kevin Boon


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him further and before he knew it he was Hundreds of fellow the male clients in the salon. But he professionals and enthralled handling was always striving to be better. onlookers watch on as Kevin Kevin says: “I was never satisfied with my haircuts. The customers were satisfied, but Boon lifts the International I was focusing on the detail and said ‘no it’s Barber Awards trophy. not perfect’ so I’ve never stopped educating myself.” Growing up in a rough Now MOOI has been open for three years neighbourhood in Brussels and Kevin is booked months in advance – with the dream of playing with the queues sure to get longer thanks to his International Barber Awards crown. professional football for a living, Kevin had to be Taking a chance It was Kevin’s regular photographer who tough. Now as the emotion introduced him to the International Barber of his achievement washes Awards, sending him a link and encouraging over him and he accepts him to make the most of his talent and go for the applause of some of his it. After his photographic entry was accepted, Kevin travelled to Germany for the qualifier most admired colleagues, where he had to perform an executive business look haircut and hot towel shave. the tears start.

Rags to riches

“I never finished school,” Kevin opens up to us as we discuss just what this award means to the 26-year old Belgian. “I did loads of shitty jobs, so after all that, to do something I’m passionate about and to be called one of the best barbers, it did something to me. I was very emotional.” A talented footballer, a series of knee injuries ended Kevin’s hope of making it as a professional – the dream he had dedicated his life to. Left with no education and no future, it was up to the women in Kevin’s life to help him turn it around. Having cut his friends’ hair growing up, the talent and passion was there, he just needed to find it. “My mother said to me ‘Do something you love, do something with your hands. God gave you artistic hands. Why don’t you go to school for hairdressing?’ But I was like no it’s for girls and I’m a tough man – my ego was talking. After doing 20 jobs I hated and still cutting hair for my friends I met my wife and she was also a hairdresser.” As well as being his life partner, Kevin’s wife would prove to be his business partner. Together they opened a hair salon, MOOI, in Wetteren. To start with Kevin continued just cutting his friends’ hair after hours, but as his hunger to improve grew, he began to take it more seriously. Late nights on YouTube watching barbering tutorials helped

“It was the first time I had cut hair working in front of other barbers,” he says. “I was very stressed and had a lot of nerves. I was happy with my haircut but not with the shave.” A few weeks later Kevin saw that one of his fellow barbers from the qualifier had made it thorugh to the finals. “Ah well, I’m not through the competition but I’m glad I went and met some barbers,” he said to himself. But it wasn’t to be the end of the story for Kevin – the key aspect of the International Barber Awards is that it’s not about who is the best at one haircut, it’s about being the whole pacakage and Kevin had proved he had enough to gain a wildcard through to Nuremberg where he’d have to show his proficiency in three other cuts.

Three stages

Kevin’s first cut went perfectly. He says: “After the skinfade pompadour I had lots of barbers come up to me and say ‘your cut was amazing’ so receiving those messages made me more calm, relaxed, and confident.” The semi-final stage wasn’t quite as straightforward, with Kevin having to perform a facial treatment – something not in demand in Belgium’s working class neighbourhoods. However, he had undertaken a crash course with a local beauty salon and alongside his beard trim he did enough to make it through. For Kevin the key was ensuring he did his

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Round by Round... -

Quarter Final “I knew the first round was a skinfade pompadour and that is one of my haircuts that I practice like five, six times a day. It’s one of my signature cuts so I didn’t need to prepare for it, it’s just the day-job for me.”

Semi Final “I was like ‘what’s a facial treatment?’ I have never heard of men doing that. A week before Nuremberg I asked a beauty shop to give me a demo of a facial. I went and watched a demo for two hours and they said ‘now you can do it’. I did the same thing they were doing and they were like ‘have you done this before?’ But no it was my first time. In Germany it went well, the shave and facial were very good.”

Final “For the freestyle cut I had no nerves, I felt comfortable, I was zen, and in my zone.”

best to stay calm: “I realised if I’m not relaxed then the customer won’t be relaxed. The judges saw I was relaxed and the customer was almost sleeping!” Of course, it all came down to the grand finale – a freestyle cut. After the set stages and doing some styles he wouldn’t count as his favourite, it was a chance for Kevin to show off his true talent. It worked.

The crown

“The first emotion I felt was ‘fuck, I’m going to cry’. The nerves from the whole day before, it was just a relief and a release. I didn’t even have time to celebrate, we had to travel to Belgium immediately because my mother had to work on the Monday so we had six or seven hours of road to do.” Throughout the long drive home it still didn’t sink in to Kevin that he was the inaugural International Barber Awards overall winner, beating hundreds of competitors from around the globe. But it wasn’t long before the media descended on MOOI. Kevin says: “The first day I worked in the shop, the most huge national news in Belgium came to visit me with cameras and interviewed me. I had five minutes time on the news. I was like ‘wow’, it was very bizarre. The day after when I was in the news everyone was congratulating me and recognising me.” For Kevin, one of the biggest plaudits was being recognised as a peer by the judges who had voted him as the winner: the likes of Alan Findlay, Schorem’s Gio, Alessandro Bonetto, and Salvador Chanza. He says: “It was amazing. Basically the judges are barbers who I follow on social media so I was very excited to meet them. I was nervous because they had to judge me then after the win they were like colleagues to me, it was nice. Now I’m grateful I could meet barbers from all over the world. They send me friend requests on Facebook, they ask me to look at their cuts, and I have conversations with them. We share the same passion. When you see another barber it’s not going to be quiet – we talk like women!”

Next gen

It isn’t just the seasoned pros who hold Kevin in respect now, and he’s clearly delighted to be seen as an inspiration to young barbers in Belgium who might be going through the same difficult circumstances he went through. He says: “It’s nice to inspire young barbers and barbers who didn’t have the chance to go to school or get an education because it costs money here in Belgium. Education you can do on your own, but it’s very difficult. They text me saying ‘you inspire me’ and that made me very emotional.” Kevin is more than just talk and has put his money where his mouth is by hiring an aspiring barber who could well be the next Kevin Boon. “He has the same history as me,” Kevin explains. “He was a boxer and he was doing lots of different jobs. He never had the time to go to hairdressing school but he’s very talented and cut hair in his garage. I love to work with people who are very passionate about it.”

As someone who has been through it all, when Kevin speaks it resonates. He knows the importance of giving everything you’ve got and it’s what he advises to anyone looking to emulate him. He says: “My advice is going to be a little cliché, but if you do something with your heart and you’re telling yourself ‘I want to be great’, then don’t be satisfied at the beginning, be satisfied at the end. Educate yourself and be critical with yourself, but do it with love and do it with your heart. If you want to achieve something you must work hard for it. For the young people I know, if you don’t have a diploma or education but you have the talent in your hands, do something with it.” Kevin did something with his talent and now has the world at his feet. He plans to grow his barbering team into a bigger shop, perhaps away from the salon side of things – He jokes: “I’ve been working alone with girls, I need some guys with me so we can have some silly jokes. The women are killing me, I need some tough guys!”

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Felix Heck


Best Barber Germany 2017

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On home turf, Felix Heck did his country proud with a highly respectable second place in the International Barber Awards. Having entered the forerunner to the competition last year, the German Barber Awards, but missing out on the title, Felix took home the crown of Germany’s Best Barber this time round. Based in a small town called Durmershein, Felix originally tried to get out the family business of hairdressing by going to business school, but ultimately found himself serving an apprenticeship under his father. Felix explains that a “professional hairdressing apprenticeship takes three years in Germany. It was mainly women’s haircuts but I preferred just doing men’s haircuts and so I’ve been specialising in that for three and a half years.” One particular moment in his career helped shape Felix’s future. “Two years ago I completed my first seminar at Schorem in Rotterdam and from then on the way was clear for me: men’s haircuts in the barbershop and nothing else.” Getting to Nuremberg Although he didn’t win the German Barber Awards in 2016, Felix wasn’t put off entering this year’s International Barber Awards and believes the introduction of so much more talent improved the contest. Felix says: “It was great to attend for the first time on an international level this year. That makes things so much more interesting and challenging. In the preliminary round in Mannheim I scored points with a strong before-and-after effect, that is I made a big change to my model and was then able to progress into the final in Nuremberg.

“When the news came that I made it to the final in Nuremberg I first said to my colleague “I need a Jacky!” (Whiskey). I could not believe it. I was overwhelmed with joy and wrote immediately to al my close friends – total delight! “But gradually nervousness came in. In the time before the final I focused even more on every haircut in the barbershop and focused on details more than I already do. I refined my techniques even more because I knew the level would be very high. And then I needed models for the final. There was a lot to do, but it was fun and it was worth it.” The big day While every contestant at the International Barber Awards is a highly trained professional used to cutting numerous varied hairstyles every day of the week in their salon, repeating it on stage in front of a crowd of fellow barbering experts is a different matter. Felix had to overcome his nerves to progress through the rounds. “Looking back, I now know I did a good job,” he tells us. “But if you’re there live and have to deliver super good performances on stage in front of the audience all day long, then that’s quite another thing. The pressure is enormous. “Basically I was very happy that I had found good models. All had hair that was quite long so I could get a good before-after effect. Round one was about a fade. I had such shaky hands at the beginning that I actually made a small mistake and I had a lot of stress to cover it, but in the end I solved it well. “In round two, the beard cut and facial care, I focused mainly on the trim and the treatment, but above all on the final result. We had free choice of products so I filled the beard in with a special applicator for uneven hair spots. In the end the beard looked completely perfect. “When I found out that I was in the final, I was really nervous. Now I was ready. During the break shortly before the final round. I mentally prepared myself again and told myself ‘just give it all the best you can every

second’. My girlfriend and family were there and they really cheered me on.” Mental preparation was key for Felix’s success and he left nothing to chance. He says: “I thought about the cut stepby-step and then got onto the stage and started. It was almost like a boxing match or football game – I really fought. Because the competition was extremely strong with Kevin Boon and Jürgen Niederl, which was a real challenge.” The result As the placings were called out in reverse order, the tension on the stage was palpable. In his instantly recognisable Stetson, Felix looked unflappable, but he reveals he was anything but. “I will never forget that moment,” he tells us. “It was pure goose bumps. When I stood there with only Kevin I looked to my people in the audience – my father had wide eyes, everyone was keeping their fingers crossed – I was totally happy and we jumped in the air with joy. I feel that my people are very proud of me – that’s sensational and means a lot to me.” Since taking home the second place plaque, Felix has kept his feet on the ground. He says: “I am a modest and thankful guy. I continue to work in my barbershop as usual, because I think the fame goes but my daily business and customers stay and they made it possible. I’ve had offers from the industry, new jobs offers, but I’ll take it easy. Quick decisions are not always the best. The team at 1o1BARBERS have also been very supportive.” So what would he say to anyone else considering taking part in the International Barber Awards next year? “Be passionate and believe in yourself. Hey – I’m the best example that you can do it. I was previously completely unknown in the barber scene and worked in my barber shop in a small village and suddenly I stood there on stage between the audience, all the familiar faces and the press. Everyone can do it – just do your best!”

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JĂźrgen Niederl

Best Barber Austria 2017

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Coming in third overall is no mean feat in a competition that featured hundreds of barbers. But for Jürgen Niederl, it was even more impressive as he beat out the many, many entrants from Austria to take home the crown of his country’s Best Barber 2017. The owner of Holy Tiger Barbershop in Graz, Jürgen gained experience at the highest possible level when earning his barbering education. As well as working at high profile barbershops in the UK, including a spell working with an international artistic team, he rounded off his training with a spell at the famed Schorem Old School training academy – mastering the traditional cutting techniques for which he is now known. Qualifying After meeting 1o1Barbers owner and competition organiser at a hair festival in Graz, Jürgen learned of the International Barber Awards. He tell us that it “was clear for me that I wanted to be a part of this competition and I started working very hard to get qualified.” Jürgen’s hard work paid off and the three images he sent in were enough to earn him an invite to Kärnten for the qualifier. It went well, to say the least. He explains: “One week later I got the news that I had qualified for the finals in Nuremberg. I was very proud because only two barbers from Austria were invited to the finals and the two were my employee and me. So we were the only barbershop from Austria who qualified for Nuremberg.” Competition Once his place at the final was confirmed, Jürgen’s preparations began. With all contestants knowing the brief prior to heading to Germany, there was ample opportunity to ensure they were up to date

with all their skills and Jürgen took it. He says: “I worked very hard and trained every day at and after work. “It’s my passion and I always want to give my best. Only when I give my all I am satisfied. To have the right models and outfits was also an important point for me to perform what I can and to show a before and after effect.” On the day, Jürgen certainly performed to his high expectations, sailing through the quarter and semi-finals to make it through to the final six. There he stuck to his roots in the Freestyle competition, refusing to do something outrageous and going for a slick, traditional style. Hearing his name announced in the top three was a fantastic moment for the hardworking Austrian barber. “When you are at this point, you know all the hardships and work which has invested will be rewarded. An indescribable feeling.” The Big Picture Jürgen isn’t the type of person to get carried away by his success however, and was back in his shop cutting as soon as he could, despite widespread media attention. He says: “Sure it was reported in national and some international media, which caused a stir, but it was and is always a concern to me to offer my clients a great service and high quality and the pursuit of perfectionism.” So what did he take away from the whole experience? “It wasn’t only a competition,” Jürgen tells us, “it was an exchange between so many different barbers from different countries. That was one of the greatest things for me. Before I performed on stage, sure I was nervous, but on stage it all ‘clicks’ and I do what I love and give my passion. “At this point I want to thank 1o1BARBERS for such a great event, because through them it was made possible.” And some parting wisdom for anyone looking to emulate Jürgen next year. “Train hard, love what you do, do it with passion, be yourself, and never give up. You never stop learning.”

, Jürgen’s Cuts -

Quarter Final I did one of my favourite haircuts – a skin-faded pompadour. I did a razor-fade pompadour because it’s more sophisticated. I was happy with the result and got through to the next round.

Semi Final I had to do a full beard grooming and facial treatment. I performed a fullpack beard ritual including beard trim, straight-razor shave, face treatment, cupping, and hot towel. For me it was important to give my model a complete new beard look, with a great before and after effect.

Final I had to perform a total look on my model. I chose a traditional look because that’s our philosophy and I didn’t want to disguise myself or my work.

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Photography: Lupi Spuma

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NOMAD Berlin The Nomad Barber travels the world, but Berlin always brings him back


he most well-travelled man in barbering is trekking somewhere in Patagonia when we try to make contact. Consisting of everything from the southern section of the Andes Mountains to the largest ice fields outside of the Antarctic, it’s one of the most unforgiving places on Earth. So, frankly, it’s no surprise to learn that Miguel Gutierrez, better known as The Nomad Barber, is there – he’s not afraid of a challenge. BarberNV last spoke with Miguel way back in issue four when he had just opened the doors to his Berlin branch, the second in the Nomad brand after his first in London. So with our trip to Germany this issue, what better time to check in with Miguel and see how his Berlin barbershop is coming along. When you’re burning the candle at both ends, travelling the world and trying to run two successful barbershops in two different countries, a minor hiccup can have big repercussions. So when it’s a big hiccup…

NMD BLN Miguel is helping grow the barbering scene in Berlin with his second Nomad barbershop. Located in the creative hub of Kreuzberg, an up-and-coming area popular with the artsy, young professional crowd, it aims to offer not only the best haircut, but also the best coffee in Berlin. The aesthetic of the shop is perfectly suited to its stunning surroundings, with Miguel integral to its design. He says: “We really played on the current layout being exposed brick. We used architects to basically formulate a plan based on my ideas. We used plywood from shipping crates to create workstations, vintage polished factory lights, and lots of imagery from my travels, with a neutral colour palette around the shop – lots of blacks, browns, and greys.” Berlin is a city popular with fleeting visitors so it’s no surprise that the staff can come and go as well, with Miguel saying they “have a lot of travellers coming through Berlin, mixed with a backbone of full timers.

“The past year has been crazy,” Miguel tells us. “A few months after the opening of the Berlin store, we were given three months to vacate the original London location. I never dreamt of having to open two stores within the space of six months but it had to be done. I came back and opened up the shop again further down Brick Lane.” Having survived the challenges thrown up by the sudden closure and re-opening, Miguel got back to what he loves most. He says: “I put together a long waited itinerary for a new set of Nomad Barber videos which I’m currently filming [hence the trekking through South America] and I put the last pieces together for our upcoming product range launching in 2018.” So just a typical packed year for Miguel!

Choosing Germany Keeping his feet planted firmly in Europe are his shops in London and Berlin. London makes sense – it’s a fashion capital of the world with a vibrant hairdressing scene and is the capital of Miguel’s home country. But why Berlin? “I went over for a pop-up a few years ago,” Miguel explains. “As always I took my camera to take photos of barbershops. “The only problem? No barbershops. So a year later I met some really good people there and we decided to collaborate to open the store. It’s been a difficult time with lots of people coming and going – with it being abroad it’s not for everybody and German barbers are hard to come by.” While we’ve seen the progress happening in the German barber scene through events such as the International Barber Awards held in Nuremberg and with a German coming second, Miguel feels it hasn’t yet reached the same standard as some of its older brothers. He says: “It’s definitely young, but for sure it’s growing. They’ve started to have their own events while it’s not the same as the UK or the USA, they are on a solid path.”

“It’s very laid back there and we try to keep egos out and good vibes in. You don’t have to be an Instagram famous barber to work with our brand. You just have to be a good, loyal, and nice person.” While many barbershops offer their clients a drink – be it coffee or alcohol – few manage to draw in almost as much custom from their additional services as they do from their barbering, but it’s clear that Miguel and his team have taken the time to do it right. And with Berliners mad for the black stuff, it’s a smart decision. “Clients absolutely love the amazing coffee we serve,” he says. “And it works well for bringing customers in for either business. It’s a welcoming starting point for customers to come in and be offered a coffee or tea. Sometimes clients find it nerve-wracking walking into a new place, but in Berlin they are greeted like they are in any other coffee store first.”

Future Customer care and comfort is at the heart of Nomad Berlin, but while the clients may love the relaxing atmosphere, Miguel admits it isn’t all sunshine and rainbows from his side. “To be honest, it’s very stressful running shops. Managing so strong, creative, and sometimes large, egos can be draining mentally.” But he’s always open to ideas and the Nomad brand is set to expand sometime in the future. Miguel says: “Right now we are looking at the possibility of two stores in the next year but nothing is set in stone. I don’t want to have a huge chain. Not right now, possibly in five years. But barbershops will hit a point in the next few years where they will all start to become the same thing. I believe it’s grown way too fast for us all to come out safely at the other side, but we will see. I’m just happy to see how far it’s come in the current climate.”

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Family company with big ambitions Germany’s barbering industry is still in its infancy when compared with the UK and the USA, but one brand is at the forefront of changing that. With multiple shops, including a truly traditional barbershop and home-grown product line, Snip A Man are leading the way. The duo behind Snip A Man are father and son barbers Michael and Marcel Otto. With over 30 years’ experience behind the chair, Michael brings a wealth of knowledge to the team while Marcel has just as much talent plus the cosmopolitan flair to help promote the brand beyond the UK – when we meet with them at the International Barber Awards, Marcel’s English is absolutely flawless. In 2015, Marcel and Michael decided to take the industry by the scruff of the neck and create the Snip A Man brand. “I learned a lot from my father and we said we would make a barbershop together,” Marcel tells us. “In the German market there aren’t so many barbershops and we also found there

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weren’t so many products in the German barber industry so we went and made our own.”

Barbershops The result is Snip A Man which now consists of three shops, two catering to both men and women but one exclusively for men - a rarity in the German market. Marcel says: “Most guys and women in Germany learn cutting hair for men and women, there are no traditional barbershops. For us it was important to make it a little bit like British barbershops – we like the classic look and it’s the classic gentleman who is coming into our shops, from students to older people. “We have two other stores but they are for women and men. Our whole family is hairdressers, but my dad and I are specialised for men.” That specialisation is coming in handy as the male market continues to grow in Germany and more men are looking for barbers with the experience and talent to handle their pride and joy – facial hair. “Marcel says: “The good thing for us is at the moment beards are very popular in Germany and not so many hairdressers can do this. My dad has done it for 30 years, so we can specialise in beards and also shaving.”

Products With the barbershops up and running, Marcel and Michael turned their talents to creating a

grooming range to go with the brand.” “A good friend of ours is in the cosmetic industry,” Marcel explains. “He said to us ‘why don’t you make your own barber products?’ and he could help us. At the start we wanted six products; three for hair, three for beard. Each comes with a unique fragrance.” Through the barbershop, Snip A Man were able to rigorously test and experiment with their formulas until they got them just right. The result is a line of beard and hair products beloved by barbers and customers alike. Marcel says: “At first we wanted a big range of products but it was a little bit too much. We’re a small company so we decided to start with six products – but they had to be good. “Our customers love it and they don’t get it everywhere, that’s the most important thing. You don’t get our products online or in big shops.” That exclusivity is key to the success of Snip A Man’s range, and a rare sighting of professional integrity in an age where many brands look to make a quick buck by selling their products anywhere that will take them. Marcel believes it’s the right way to do things and Snip A Man have no intention of changing it. “We support other barbershops with our products,” he says. “We don’t want to sell it in big online shops, we only want to sell it to barbers – they all need something special in their shop.”

1o1BARBERS To reach out to other barbers across Germany, Snip A Man take a mobile version of their shop on the road to events such as the HAARE trade show where the International Barber Awards were held. They do this with the support of 1o1BARBERS, the biggest selling barbershop distributor in the country. Marcel says: “I also buy products from 1o1BARBERS and Micha Birkhofer. We talked about our products and he liked them a lot and wanted to take them on to his portfolio. We were happy to have a partner in him as for us as a family company we can’t get out to all the barbershops to show them our products.” With more events lined up over the next year, including in Great Britain, 2018 is set to be a big year for Snip A Man and they could be coming to a barbershop near you.

Future Plans Meanwhile, Marcel and Michael are always keen to examine the possibility of opening further Snip A Man barbershops in Germany, but they run into the same problem we’ve heard from many German barbershop owners. “The problem is we have good barbers in our shop, but it’s not so easy to find so many good barbers here. The market is too small at the moment. We have plans for franchising, that would be the best thing because if the barber gets his own shop with Snip A Man, he would do better work.” Offering their own training seems like a fruitful way for Marcel and Michael to use their vast experience in the trade and to help further the industry, and it’s something they have considered. With Michael’s 30 years and the Snip A Man brand showing German barbershops how they should be doing it, we’re sure the demand will be there to learn from this father and son team. Keep your eye out for Snip A Man coming to the UK soon.

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Kyle Ross

Best Barber UK 2017

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We’ve always thought reading BarberNV could boost your career. Now we have proof. While flicking through his copy, Aberdeen barber Kyle Ross found out about the International Barber Awards. Now he’s the proud owner of a plaque stating that he’s the UK’s Best Barber having topped the British standings at the live show in Nuremberg. The hunt For someone who technically only became a barber a year ago, it’s quite the rise. However, with almost a decade of hairdressing experience behind him, Kyle is no novice. “It gave me an advantage when I moved into barbering,” Kyle tells us. “I had an understanding of all hair types as opposed to just being taught barbering.” While working in a hair salon, Kyle was steadily building a larger male client base and found it was something he enjoyed more than the female side. He explains: “Women’s hair can be quite repetitive and I felt limited to what you can do on long hair. You can be more creative on short hair – every haircut is different.” It’s now exactly a year since Kyle opened his own shop, Huntsman, in central Aberdeen. In that short space of time his team has grown from him and one other to Kyle now employing eight people and still looking to expand. In a city hit hard by a suffering oil and gas trade, it’s a rare success story. The qualifier Flicking through Kyle’s favourite barber magazine (we assume), he found out about the International Barber Awards being held in Germany for the first time. Luckily for Kyle he was just in time to enter. “I didn’t expect to hear back,” he says modestly. “It was the night of the deadline and I just entered whatever I had on my phone which wasn’t necessarily my best work. About a month later I got an email asking me to go to Glasgow for the qualifier which took me by surprise.” Kyle packed his bags and headed down to the famous Rebel Rebel barbershop in Glasgow, where he would have to perform

a business-style cut to be judged by industry icon Alan Findlay and 1o1BARBERS representative Salvador Chanza. Kyle was optimistic about his chances, saying “it went not too bad on the day. It was the first time in a long time that I’d been judged to that degree. On the day it felt quite high pressured but it was good and I enjoyed it. It’s something different from the working week being in the salon doing clients.” Soaking up the sun abroad when he heard the news that he’d made it to Nuremberg, Kyle had to take into considerations the expense required and potential lost revenue from being away from his barbershop, but ultimately chose to take the risk. The quarter final Although the competition was fierce, with every barber in the same boat there was no obvious rivalry prior to the main event. “Everyone was surprisingly friendly,” Kyle says. “I was quite chatty and got to speak with everyone. They were all quite nervous which was to be expected. I saw the setup and the stage and as the first round started you saw there were big crowds watching which adds to the pressure.

“I felt less nervous because I saw the other first round before having to go up. I wasn’t sure what standard everyone was at so it was reassuring to know I was on the same level.” Once he was up there though, the pressure of the big occasion began to play its part, admits Kyle. “You overthink things. Because you’ve been told the guidelines you adapt more on what you’d do on your day-to-day: you take your time, you make sure your sections are cleaner, you go over bits more than you normally would to make sure it’s perfect. I thought 45 minutes was plenty of time but because you’re going more in-depth the time just disappears. “Once I got over the first 15 minutes and settled in I started to enjoy it. The judges were all quite chatty which helps put you at ease.” It went well enough for Kyle to advance to the semi-final, which was his minimum goal before it started. He says: “I had travelled a long way to be there so would have been disappointed to go home early. Instantly you just have to refocus yourself on the next round. You don’t get to enjoy it for long as I then had the task of

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finding a model for the next stage so went on a mad dash for that. The semi-final As the only UK representative left in the competition, the hopes of the nation lay on Kyle’s shoulders. With the first haircut round out of the way, the semi-final focused on a beard trim and facial treatment. Although he looked calm and composed, being on stage in front of a large crowd rarely gets easier. “The nerves don’t go away,” he says. “You try to calm yourself down before you start using a straight razor and soon enough you get into the swing of things. The model I had wasn’t one I had chosen and it wasn’t ideal – he had quite a lot of problem areas with his beard – but I just did the best I could.” Unfortunately it wasn’t to be for Kyle, and with a high standard of barbers on show from across the globe, he didn’t quite make the grand final – but he received some excellent feedback from the judges. He says: “I was disappointed but I felt I had done the best I could with the models I had on the day. I wasn’t aware that I had won the prize for UK’s Best Barber as well which was a nice lift. “I spoke with the judges and they said they weren’t unanimous. A couple had me marked high and based on their marks I would have gone through. They gave me good feedback and if I was to enter again there are things I would do differently.” Back in the UK Kyle returned to the UK with the crown of UK’s Best Barber at the International Barber Awards, an accolade that has seen him receive recognition from across the national press and even his local Member for the Scottish Parliament, making it a worthwhile endeavour.

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“It’s been good and I’ve had a lot of positive PR off the back of it. Just getting the business name out there was why I entered in the first place. I’ve been approached by various suppliers so it has raised my own profile as well.” With his attention now fully returned to seeing Huntsman into its second year and working at London Fashion Week with label. men, it remains to be seen if he’ll take another shot at the crown next year. But he’s confident it’s a competition worth entering. “Just do it,” he says. “If you think you’re capable then enter it. What’s good about it is it’s’ based on your skill level, not just based on photographs or popularity. It’s based on how you perform on the day so I think that gives it another level.” With the experience he gained this time round, we wouldn’t put it past Kyle to make it to the final if he does decide to enter.


Time to Boost For years it was a troubling problem for barbers. How do you give thinning hair volume and texture? Fortunately the industry boffins were on the case, and now no barber worth his salt goes without using a boost powder at least once a day, if not once an hour. If you are yet to get on board with one of the most important products you can have in your arsenal, we picked out a few favourites.

American Crew Boost Powder

Like everything the guys at Crew do, their Boost Powder is an absolute winner. Gives hair lift, thickness, and a matte finish with a touch of grit for dramatic, gravity-defying texture. Layer it with virtually any other American Crew product for the complete look. £14.50 – americancrew.com

Indola Texture Volumising Powder

A powerful styling powder designed for mega volume. Expect loads of lift and a remouldable finish. Regardless of the hair type, it adds texture and height, while the hold is strong enough to get through the day, but not too tough that the client can’t rework it. £8.60 – salon-services.com

Osmo Power Powder

This lightweight, superfine, volumising powder with a soft matte finish easily absorbs into the hair without weight it down or leaving any oily residue. Designed to deliver lift, grit, and texture where you need it most. For a more precise application, apply to dry hair and style a desired or for that bedhead look, rub through the roots and lengths to amp up the volume and add texture.

Redken Powder Grip

Transforms the hair’s surface, creating a matte finish with amazing texture and fullness. Shake it on to add incredible volume and give extra grip to create the perfect updo or textures a short-do. Options are limitless with a product like this. £10.55 – lookfantastic.com

£12.75 – osmo.uk.com

Schwarzkopf Professional Osis+ Session Label Powder Cloud Sprayable Powder

This product is an improved version of their previous Oasis Dust, and is fitted with an innovative pump to allow for targeted powder distribution. The micro fine particles are infused with lava rock, adding a feathery voluptuousness to each strand for intensified texture results. £17.50 – Schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

Tresemme Texture Style Backcomb Dust

Creates instant root lift at the crown of the head, giving towering height and grip without the sticky feel of other products. Inspired by the big hair trend of texture, it helps achieve an undressed and dishevelled look. £3.99 - tresemme.com

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ALANFINDLAY rebelrebel

Welcome back readers to page where I’ll be answering your questions and discussing what’s been happening in around the globe with the Art Of Barbering. Our mail boxes have been bulging lately with questions relating to the recent International Barber Awards in Nuremberg Germany which was hosted by 1o1BARBERS at the German hair show HAARE 2017. I was both honoured and privileged to be asked to be a judge at the recent event in October with fellow judges Gio (the new kid) from Schorem in the Netherlands, Eddine Belaid from Switzerland, Alessandro Bonetto from Bons barbers in Italy, Salvador Chanza from Spain, and last year’s winner Sezer Soylu from Turkey. The Germans really know how to host a great event and the media presence was unlike anything I’d seen at previous events with two mainstream news channels covering the event along with an array of various newspapers and magazines, it even made it to the national TV news which shows the interest the event created. The competition was fierce with 21 finalists from 14 different countries competing in five rounds over a mammoth 10 hours. Producing national champions of each country entered as well as the prestigious title of International Barber of the Year 2017 which came with a healthy 1st place prize worth over €10,000. Not bad for a day’s work, eh! So with all that said I’ll be sharing with you guys all the inside knowledge required to win this fantastic tournament.

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ASK ALAN? Q: Tips for entering the International Barber Awards, what are the judges looking for? AF: The competition was based around classic & modern barbering techniques so good shaving skills with an open razor are crucial for showcasing your skill with a wet shave, necklines, and beard lining. Next you will need to produce an exceptional fade and clipper skills (blending, lining and tapering). Working on longer hair you will be judged on neat sectioning, competent scissor techniques, and proficient structured styling using various tools and products. Some of the categories this year included pomp with fade and face shave, relaxing service for hair/beard with exceptional (and sometimes unusual) customer service and a free style category that allowed you to really express your creativity. Q: I think I’d go to pieces on stage if I entered. How do you deal with the pressure? AF: If you’ve never competed before or even if you have it really can be a nerve racking experience but you can really minimise this by being fully prepared and by that I mean: 1: Know your model - get a feel for how their hair type responds to tools products and the techniques your planning to use even have a practice run of what you hope to achieve on stage if that is possible. 2: Use your time efficiently the minutes fly by when your under pressure and on stage. Map out in your mind how much time you want to spend on each section of your service and try to stick to it. You will be marked with points for all the elements of your cut so if time is getting away from you try and finish what you can. All the points add up over the competition so even if you do poorly in one category you can still get a good score if you produce better quality in a later category. 3: RELAX! It’s only a competition, your life doesn’t depend on it. Just remember that if you get to the finals you must be good and you’re only doing what you do every day anyway. Whatever happens you’ll gain experience and it will better prepare you for future events with your nerves easing off. Q: Think I’m good, but how do I know if I compare with people internationally? Confidence issues? AF: Now this is a great question as it was something I was wanting to cover in my article. Technique and style vary from country to country, and even from city to city, and one of the things that I noticed at the International Barber Awards was the variety in skill level from our international competitors. I found the German and mainland Europe barbers to be mostly exceptional at open razor shaving and clipper work but not as proficient with scissors and styling. UK based barbers are probably the best in the world at styling, scissor, and clipper work but are really way behind our European counterparts in the open razor shaving department and maybe this is because the wet shave as a service never really disappeared from the barber’s service menu during the dark years of barbering (circa 1960-1990s) in mainland Europe but in the UK it only recently had a renaissance. So maybe these could be factors. There really is only way to find out how you compare personally with the rest of the world and that is to get out and enter international competitions. I think UK barbers will be surprised how far ahead they really are of the rest of the world in terms of cutting and styling but maybe have fallen a wee bit behind in the wet shaving department. Adding new skills and entering these competitions will build your confidence and make you a better all-round pro barber. In terms of painting all barbers from countries with the same brush I’m really only talking in general regional terms and there will always be exceptional talented individuals from any country at any time, this is just from my viewpoint and travels around the world. With all that said I hope I given a few tips and motivated all you barbers out there to go forward with your craft and test yourself don’t let your career pass you by and keep contributing to the Art Of Barbering. Big thanks to Micha Birkhofer who is the organiser of the International Barber Awards. He put on a great event and it would be great to see more UK barbers over there next year as I think they will be pleasantly surprised. Congratulations to all the contestants who took part at this year’s event and a special mention to the winner Kevin Boon from Belgium. Be the best you can be...


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How to sleigh the tills at Christmas Deck the halls with festive gift packs this Christmas and turn your standard haircut into a much bigger retail opportunity. It’s well known that guys are terrible Christmas shoppers. We leave it until the last minute, we grab the first thing we can find, and we pay over the odds. Help your customers out and double the money you make on each sale by getting your clients to buy these cracking gift sets for their friends and family. They get to give good gifts, you get a good bit of profit – it’s a win win.

Neal & Wolf Alpha Collection New kids on the block, but already making a stir, Neal & Wolf’s take on the Christmas Gift Set is combining two of their best-selling men’s products, their STYLE Shaping Cream and COMPLETE 3-in-1 Shower Gel. Together they’re designed to cleanse, add texture, and give hair a healthy shine. The smart, masculine packaging looks stylish on any salon or bathroom shelf, and its woody fragrance, with amber and citrus notes, never fails to hit the mark. Each gift set is also offered at a promotional discount of 20% off RRP to further maximise profit. £20.70 – nealandwolf.com

Lab Series Rescue Squad The ideal gift set for the daily anti-ageing ritual that cleanses, repairs, and protects. The set includes Lab Series award-winning global face serum: Future Rescue Repair Serum and complimentary everyday skincare products including the Multi-Action Face Wash and Age Rescue + Face Lotion. £49 – labseries.co.uk

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Reuzel Groom & Grow Set The Lord of the lard is back and he’s in a giving mood this Christmas. Reuzel have a range of gift sets available for their pomades, but we particularly like the Groom & Grow Set which contains their Beard Foam and Beard Balm. The perfect gift for any naughty boy’s stocking this Christmas, particularly if he’s trying to further enhance some facial fuzz. £17.99 – reuzelpomade.co.uk

TIGI Bed Head For Men Man On Gift Pack A triple threat, this gorgeous gift box contains three luxurious TIGI products. The Clean Up Daily Shampoo cleans and invigorates the scalp, while the Peppermint Conditioner hydrates and thickens. Round it all off with the Matte Separation Workable Wax and your clients will be able to proudly show off all your hard work. £16.45 – justmylook.co.uk

Uppercut Deluxe Mug, Comb, & Tin Kit How’s this for an all-rounder of a gift. For your barber friends they can use the mug as a shave cup, or for the civilians it makes a great brew. Throw in a tin of Uppercu Deluxe’s latest styling product, Easy Hold, and a handy flip comb and you have the recipe for the perfect Christmas. Uppercutdeluxe.com

men-ü Selection Box of Grooming Essentials A literal box of essentials for any man wanting to try out the men-ü brand’s range of grooming treats. It includes the full shave/facial range, a refreshing and ultra-concentrate Black Pepper and Bergamot Shower Gel, and the styling product Liquifflex. £24.95 – men-u.co.uk

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Cap W

e chatted to John Wright, Director and founder of BEC sister company to SEC and barbershoporiginals, about why he has chosen such an ominous name for their new Barber chair “The Capone”, for many of us it immediately brings to mind the infamous American gangster Al Capone, which, for some people isn’t necessarily the image they want to promote for their business but as John went on to explain, as one of the most notable figures in American history Capone brought much more than a ruthless approach to drugs and violence he also showed exceptional business skills. Born to illegal immigrants in one of the most down trodden areas of Brooklyn, New York he grew into one of the most recognisable faces in American history. The uncertainty of the UK economy during this period of political wrangling over Brexit means that every business entrepreneur needs to recognise their own position in the industry and seize upon the opportunities within their local market. This is exactly what happened during the prohibition period, Capone recognised a business opportunity

and he set about using his skills (albeit far too ruthless) to meet the demand of the local people. When we asked John for his thoughts on the issues facing the industry, we were encouraged to hear him use the words like enthusiasm, determination, a real focused approach and how proud Barbers are of their traditional skills, he went on to explain how the demand for original Barber Shop memorabilia has grown and how he is receiving enquiries from around the globe for the original, antique items he has on display in the showroom. Recently he has had Barbers visiting BEC from all over Europe, the Far East and America fascinated by the collection and history. At industry events Barbers have flocked to the stand many to reminisce at the sight of the original items others to buy a little bit of that nostalgia for their own Barber Shop. One thing is for sure, John and the team at BEC remain committed to ensure the history of British barbering and their tools is not lost, but available for all to view or buy to decorate their barber shop for the next customer who walks through the door to enjoy and question.

John’s Top Tip

The great thing about adding original pieces to your shop is that you know you will be different to joe blogs down the road. Want to put your own stamp on your barber shop? I recommend just buying 3 or 4 items to start with then add a few more each month as your budget allows? Transforming your shop with original pieces of barbering nostalgia is sure to an interesting story for your local press

Keep up to date with our latest posts on our @barbershoporiginals Instagram page!

pone www.barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk Call us on - 01455 553 558

Kilian Maddison H J Men’s Ba rber of t he Yea r 2017

Kilian Maddison has just won the HJ Men’s Barber of the Year 2017 and is the first barber from North West England to win the prestigious award at Salon International. The 25-year old Oldham barber manages the Uppermill branch of Danny & Co. Barbers and now has his sights set on further competition success.

barbers. I moved to Danny’s from there and now I’m running the Uppermill shop.”

There’s a real sense of the traditional in Kilian’s beginnings, gaining his passion for barbering from his uncle who was a hairdresser, he says: “I started on a night course, just learning two nights a week in my local barber shop, once I passed the night course I got a job in a shop in Manchester. I was there for all of about eight months, then got a job at Savills

One of Kilian’s first experiences of the industry was attending the same venue where he would win his HJ award, and he admits the experience was inspirational: “The last time I went to Salon International was when I was training as a barber. My uncle took me and told me this is what you want to aim for. I watched all the competitions and it just felt right

It was a quick rise for Killian, and he took inspiration from the high calibre of local barbers he grew up admiring: “Being from Oldham, the barbers that were becoming really big when I started were Danny Robinson (owner of Danny & Co.), and Alan and Reece Beak. I wanted to get to that level of barbering, and I’ve done it in quite a short space of time. Seeing local people do so well gave me ambition to get to that height.”

Story by: Matthew McLaughlin

going for a competition there. “I entered a picture of one of my mates for the first stage. This guy I’ve been cutting since I started training and I’ve got two jobs off the back of him and now I’ve won barber of the year.” To win the title, Kilian wowed the judges with an incredible take on the timeless Teddy Boy style. He says: “It was the most pressure I’ve had in my life. I was so shaky getting it done and in such a short space of time. It was in complete silence - the event is so loud and noisy but when you’re doing it I can’t remember a single noise at all.” Despite the pressure, Kilian wasn’t prepared to let his rivals shake his resolve. He says: “I wasn’t looking left or right on stage, I didn’t want to add more pressure onto myself. I did like a jelly roll Grease haircut, Danny Zuko style and there’s 10-15 minutes work in the blow-dry so I knew I had to get to that point with enough time.” He tells us how crucial preparation was in the days before the competition: “A couple of good customers came in and offered to let me practice on them. I was okay, but on the day of the competition it was so late in the afternoon I was running around nervous. “I kept having visions of me not finishing, I probably had four or five attempts of trying the haircut in the run up to the competition and I was always finishing it five or 10 minutes early.” A master of fine detail Kilian added distinguishing touches to set his cut

apart from the rest: “I was so happy with finishing. When I finished and everyone else finished, we got lined up and I had a feeling that I’d won it, just because I’d gone for the full look, that James Dean style, cigarette out the mouth, leather jacket, the other barbers hadn’t really done that.” For the young barber the moment his name was called was both triumphant and surreal: “It was great, at first it didn’t come into my mind that I’d won ‘cause she said Mr Kilian instead of Kilian Maddison. It was the best feeling and the proudest moment of my career.” But, even when he should rightfully bask in victory, Kilian is humble, always looking to build upon his success: “There’s that much talent in barbering, the amount I took away from the competition with the other barbers was an experience in itself. I’m back down to earth, I am proud of the award, and I would like to enter more competitions in the future. I think I’m going to go for the Wahl one next year. “My main goal career wise is to keep my customers happy, anything else is a bonus. Just getting into work and being happy is a bonus in itself.” For any aspiring barbers looking to take part in the competition next year, Kilian believes the most important thing is to focus on what they can learn from the experience rather than on the accolades: “Enjoy it as much as you can because it last five minutes. Take away as much as you can from it as there’s a lot of talented barbers in the competition.”

The Ambassadors Using well-known people to sell products has been around as long as advertising itself. Air Jordan has become a huge brand in its own right ever since Nike started working with a certain basketball superstar. So with the rise of the so-called ‘celebrity barber’ it’s no surprise that brands in our own industry have latched to the idea. Now, if you have the right social media or industry presence, brands will pay you to promote their products. They want to be associated with you and believe your followers and fans will be more likely to embrace their product because you do so as well. But how do you get one of these roles? What exactly does it involve? We spoke with four brand ambassadors from a range of companies to see just what they do.





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Damien Diablo His passion for hair styling has been evident since he was a child mimicking the latest cuts of his favourite celebs on MTV. Now his love of music and barbering combined with his social media presence helped to land him a role as ambassador for Edward Scissors. Damien is a barber at one of the most highly respected shops in the UK, and a former BarberNV Barbershop of the Month, Mr Robinson’s. Owner Matt Robinson knows a good barber when he sees one, and he certainly made Damien work for his place in the shop. But that work ethic has held Damien in good stead, and through his work at Mr Robinson’s he has had the fortune of working at London Fashion Week and at events around Europe including a Harley Davidson show in Paris. So what did Damien do to get the attention of Edward Scissors? For him it was all about Instagram. Damien says: “With my social media it wasn’t specifically a barbering page, it was also a music page – it was a mishmash because I had my fingers in a few different pies.” Although this lack of focus could be considered a flaw when it comes to attracting a company, the fact barbering has become more than just a job, it’s now a lifestyle, means they want the full package. As his page and profile grew, Edward Scissors got in touch.

If a company approaches you, it can be tempting to jump at the chance but there’s a lot to consider. For example, what can they do for you? This was something for Damien to look into and he found a lot of benefits.

Edward Scissors

He says: “They’ve got a decent social media following, including pages from around the world. They said any shots you send to us we’ll stick them up on social media – I woke up to all these tags on my phone from Edward Scissors Brazil, Edward Scissors UK, Edward Scissors Spain. For me I’m getting pushed to different parts of the industry and different parts of the world that I didn’t even think was possible. I thought this can really help me out, I’m getting out to a new audience.” What Damien does for Edward Scissors is to help expand their brand beyond being just a scissor manufacturer. “On their page before they were ticking boxes on how to market themselves, but where barbering has become a lot more of a culture as opposed to just a business, my side of things – where music is involved, where clothing is involved, my work at conventions – is adding an element to their company that they hadn’t really explored before. “Where they might have had the odd salon photo shoot with a plain room backdrop, I’m adding a bit more grit and a bit more edge to the company.”

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Danny robinson Oster

Some people will say the most important aspect is your social media presence. Some will say it’s your stage work. Some will say it’s your ability to network. Whatever the truth is, Danny Robinson has it all. As the only European ambassador for clipper giants Oster, Danny has worked his way from the very bottom to the top of the top. When we catch him up, he’s coming out of a meeting with Oster distributors Denman, having been asked to assist them with product development as part of his ambassador role. But how did he get to the point of advising one of the industry’s biggest companies on what they should do next? It started with Danny picking up a set of Oster 97s and posting his work with them on social media. In 2013 Danny was ahead of the game when it came to the likes of Instagram, while now everyone and their dog has a page for barbering, Danny was blowing up before it was cool. He says: “I jumped on social media before it was huge. One haircut I did changed my life – a picture of an Asian guy with a pompadour, it was everywhere. That got me like 10,000 followers in a short space of time.” A chance interaction with Oster’s head of sales and marketing when he sent his clippers in for maintenance was the chance Danny needed to get on their radar, and he took it with both hands.

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pulling a huge audience as he performed a unique look on a model to showcase his talents. Danny’s background in acting means he’s a natural showman, his charisma shining through and drawing the crowds. It was exactly what Oster wanted to see. There was still no indication that Oster wanted Danny as an ambassador however, the big companies take a lot of wooing. So Danny continued as usual, doing everything he could to improve the quality of work including investing in a high quality camera. Again Oster were impressed and began using his images in promotional shot – “I went to Alan Howard in Oldham to buy some products and I had to stop myself because there were these posters with all my work. I had to been going to these wholesalers all my life so this was unreal.” Now there was no doubting that Oster were interested and Danny kept up the networking, impressing them every chance he could and eventually being asked to come on board permanently as Oster’s only European ambassador. It’s a well-paid role for Danny who combines his time at his own shops with travelling the world spreading the word of Oster. He’s reached the top his own way and implores anyone looking to emulate his success to do the same.

“We got speaking,” he tells us, “and just something in the back of my head told me to send her an email with all the awards I’d won, pictures of my work, and that I was on the Young Feds Artistic Team.”

“To stand out it’s all about being creative,” Danny explains. “You need to create your own personal identity. Stop copying Ryan Cullen, Alan Beak, Josh Lamonaca. You need to create your own image. Why be a watered down version of another barber? You need to be unique.”

Weeks went by before Danny heard back, eventually getting the chance to impress the Oster team in person at Pro Hair Live when he did a demo for them,

That’s what Danny has always done. From his look to his cuts, everything about Danny Robinson is one of a kind and shows that it pays to be you.

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Frank Rimer

As barbering goes mainstream, taking up more and more space at huge events like Salon International every year, it’s becoming a cultural phenomenon. This means it’s not only industry companies that want to employ barbers as ambassadors. As well as being an educator and ambassador with industry big boys Wahl, Frank Rimer of Thy Barber is also in partnership with The Camden Watch Company, proving his appeal goes beyond the confines of barbering. Frank took the more personal approach when it came to building his associations. “The Camden Watch Company came about with me just walking into the shop,” he explains. One look at it told him everything he needed to know. “I saw this old, wooden walled shop playing Frank Sinatra, selling antiques, and I just clicked with the owners of the company straight away. We started stocking the watches, and we’re working on a timepiece together at the moment.” As well as offering the watches to his own customers and aiding in product development, Frank’s ambassador role allows him to be involved with something that speaks to him. “People have been making watches and different timepieces for years and I just loved the traditionalism behind it. It’s all very gentry. I’m working with something I thought was cool and really grabs my attention.” It pays to speak to everyone you can, even if the association isn’t immediately obvious, there can still be ways to work together. A more obvious link-up was with Wahl. As one of the premier companies in

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Wahl, Camden Watch Co.

the industry, there’s few bigger accolades than being asked to work with them, and again for Frank it came about thanks to personal relationships. He says: “With Wahl I was approached by Joth Davies from Savills. We’re long-time friends and we’ve worked together for ages, going back and forth to one another’s shops. He was asked to put together a team and one of the first people he asked was myself. I was over the moon – I’ve always used Wahl products and it was a bit of an honour to be asked.” As both an ambassador and educator, Frank’s role differs from that of other ambassadors. He goes into colleges around the south of England and helps educate the lecturers on Wahl’s Men’s Method training program which aims to up the standard of barbers coming out of these institutions. For Frank it’s a fantastic opportunity to help shape the future of an industry he is passionate about. While he is compensated financially and given all the latest toys from Wahl, including being one of the first in the country to get their hands on the cordless Seniors, for Frank it’s “not about the financial side of things, it’s the thrill of being able to share my knowledge and it’s nice to know a company trust you like that and give you a pat on the back.” And for aspiring brand ambassadors, Frank says: “Don’t sit back and wait for anything. You have to push yourself every single day. Try and figure out your style, your personal approach, and how you’re going to attack barbering head on and you’ll figure out what kind of brand suits your style. Don’t just go to every Tom, Dick, and Harry, target the ones that will suit you.”


Of all the ambassadors we spoke with, Tom Chapman has a unique perspective. As well as fronting the campaign for hairdressing giants Keune’s first foray into men’s grooming products, Tom also has the job of picking ambassadors for his charity organisation, The Lions Barber Collective. Tom had to reach into his own pocket to first bring himself to the attention of the team at Keune. Attending a tour of their HQ in which you get to meet the staff and take in a hair show from their top quality team. Later in the evening while everyone else on the trip enjoyed the nightlife, Tom bent the ear of the Keune education manager and other parts of the global team, even ignoring his future wife’s plea to dance - the sacrifices it takes to get to the top! “I spent the night showing them my collections and everything I’ve done,” says Tom. “The key thing is never underestimating your actions now for the opportunities they can give you in the future. That’s the importance of networking.”

Keune Lions barber collective

and now they’ve decided to come into barbering world and asked me to be a part of it. I’ve helped them with the development of the products, had an opportunity to be part of the journey and I’ve had a lot of exposure from them into the hairdressing world.” Through his work with The Lions Barber Collective, Tom has become an expert at raising awareness for his cause and so he knows what to look for when it comes to promoting a brand. He says: “From a business side of things you need to be nice, prove your worth, exceed expectations, and keep a good network and connect with them. When it comes to the Lions we look for people doing it for the right reasons – it’s not about promoting themselves it’s about raising awareness. If they have issues themselves or mental health in the family then those people tend to be more passionate about the situation.” So how does Tom think you can get picked up by the brand of your choice?

He continued: “People mistake networking for just having them as your friend on Facebook. If you can’t actually just ring them up and talk to them about stuff and ask them advice then you haven’t networked.”

“It’s about being the complete overall package. There’s a thing about nice guys finish last and I think that’s a load of rubbish. If they’re not nice then you don’t want to work with them again. Leave your ego at the door.

Having continued his relationship with Keune ever since his first meeting in 2015, Tom moved from working the odd show to becoming a fully-fledged ambassador for the new 1922 by J.M. Keune range.

“Just work hard, put your stuff out there, find companies that are local to you, and find people that you get on with. That’s so important if you’re going to do ambassador work. It seems glamorous that I’m maybe in Holland doing different shows and events but it’s hard work – you’re away from your family and friends – but if you’re working with people you enjoy it’s a nice experience.”

Tom is clearly delighted by the opportunity. “Being part of Keune is fantastic. They look after me so well. They’re still family owned and have been going for 95 years – they’re a giant within the hair industry

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SKIN FADE WITH RUGER BARBER’S ALAN BEAK Wa h l P ro f e s s i o n a l U K


@ w a h l p ro u k

Hair Styled by: Alan Beak Model: Kyle Beaumont (IG: kylebeaumont89)

@ w a h l p ro u k

Sstep 4

step 1

Blend the fade using the Wahl Finale, adjusting your pressures lightly to prevent lines or shadows.

Establish a guideline, opening up the work space with an open 1.5 guard.

Using the Wahl Cordless Senior work through the medial section of the fading work to maintain balance and symmetry on all panels of the head.

step 2 Set a baseline, ensuring the area you are working with is now completely visible. This is done with a zero, raw blade closed.

step 3 Now descend in graduation using the Wahl Beret trimmer.

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step 5 Use a guard skipping technique working with a 0.5 guard half open and closed. Then the 1 guard fully open and closed. By ascending and descending this way it allows you to have full control of your fading. Complete the fade with clipper over comb to create a square shape on the corners of the head, ensuring you retain enough weight to enhance the overall look. Cut the top and style as required.







AVA I L A B L E AT A L L G O O D R E TA I L E R S wahl.co.uk

Wa h l P ro f e s s i o n a l U K

@ w a h l p ro u k

@ w a h l p ro u k BarberNV Magazine | 67


Let me show you inside … Warm and cozy? Sleek and modern? Traditional or contemporary? Your barbershop is your pride and joy, so understandably you want it to look the best it can. For many people it can be a reflection of them, a reflection of their work, or a reflection of the area in which they are based. Whatever your reason, it can be quite a daunting task. There’s a lot to bring together to create the perfect shop so we spoke with a range of shop owners who have crafted their barbershop into their unique style.


//Aberdeen, Scotland Owned by the barber crowned Britain’s Best at the International Barber Awards, Huntsman throws everything you thought you knew about barbershops out the window, going for a sleek, sophisticated look instead of the old fashioned, traditional look so beloved. Huntsman boasts an industrial aesthetic, with splashes of black and copper prominent throughout. A bespoke, custom-made copper reception desk features pride of place, whilst black leather salon chairs and a black wooden feature wall helps to give the barbers a minimalist feel. An open-plan layout and multiple lighting features helps to maximise the space available, keep the premises brightly lit and enhance the shine of the various copper features. A selection of Edison bulbs and copper ceiling lights hang from an exposed services ceiling, which gives a slight vintage feel to the overall modern look of Huntsman. Kyle says: “The traditional, vintage theme works really well for most barbers, but I knew that it wasn’t for me. Instead, I decided to choose a brand colour and base the rest of the features around it. I opted for copper as it really stood out to me and I liked how nobody else in the area was using it at the time. “When designing the interior, I didn’t want to exclude certain age groups, as some older clients might be intimidated by a place that’s too flashy, whilst younger guys might be hesitant to try out somewhere that looks old fashioned. I feel that I’ve managed to achieve this, as Huntsman has a really inviting atmosphere.”

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“The traditional theme works really well for most barbers, but I knew that wasn’t for me.”


GUY & BEARD //Glasgow, Scotland

We can’t just talk about interior when it comes to this original venture from Guy & Beard. A barbershop within a shipping container is certainly a novel concept but it has many benefits – low rent, a myriad of locations that would be impossible for a normal shop, and the opportunity to move quickly and easily. Inside, it’s surprisingly spacious considering where it is housed. With three stations, a waiting area, and till, it has everything you need to run a successful shop. Owners Usman Mohammed and Arti Poddar got the idea from TV shows Grand Designs and Living Mortgage Free with Sarah Beeny, and set about taking on the task of renovating an old shipping container they had. Arti says: “We stripped away all the rust, insulated the walls and plaster boarded them. Then we had to build a whole new roof and cut out holes where the glazing could go to bring some light in.” It certainly worked, with natural light streaming into the space, allowing the barbers to work perfectly. One of the main concerns for the Guy & Beard team was reducing their carbon footprint and making it as environmentally friendly as possible. But Usman says much of what you see inside was “upcycled and recycled, or stuff that we have collected.” One example Arti points out is the wood used in the shop was all reclaimed scaffolding timber. “Mani sanded that down himself and put beeswax on it.” The shop has a truly unique flavour from inside to out, and shows what you can do with a little bit of imagination.


//Gornal, West Midlands More of a unique feature point than a look at the whole shop, but BS4 went viral and made national news earlier in the year when their incredible penny floor wowed the public. The fourth shop owned by Brett Davies has really been put on the map thanks to the floor which was only installed after a few beers helped make the decision! “We started the shop back in February and missed one opening deadline in June, so it was still up in the air if we should do the floor,” Brett explains to us. “My girlfriend was saying ‘you have to do the floor, it will be a major talking point’, but we decided the night before we wouldn’t do it as we didn’t want to miss another deadline. “After some discussion, we had a couple of beers and just started throwing pennies down without sticking them down.” The pennies didn’t stick at first, but the idea did. Enlisting his business partner and a friend, they worked 14 hours a day for a week to get it finished before the shop opened. In the end they were asking people walking by the shop to come in and help them – a move that made it a true community project. The success speaks for itself. “Even in quiet times people are still coming in from all over the West Midlands to see it. The story is still getting shared in America. “Although we’re an established brand in the area, having that floor has probably brought 20% of our trade in. It’s been a great response and kick-started a new business that probably would have struggled for the first few months.” Have something unique bubbling at the back of your mind? Give it a go!

BarberNV Magazine | 69


THE BARBERSHIP //Southsea, Portsmouth

All aboard The Barbership! Docked at the bottom of a clock tower in Southsea, it’s no surprise that owner Jamie Martin went for a nautical theme for this shop. Portsmouth has had a long association with seafarers, with the city’s naval base in operation since 1194 – yes almost a thousand years! “We wanted to go for a fancy officer’s quarters look,” Jamie says. “It has a real traditional feel. We stripped all the walls back and luckily enough the plaster was sound – the rough and raw old plaster looks awesome. Then we put in some wood panelling and we already had a real working fireplace.” Set inside a listed building with imposing doors dating back to the 18th century, Jamie wanted to continue the vintage and historical feel through every part of the shop. Rather than pop down to his local shop and pick up the latest barber chairs, he scoured the internet until he found the perfect 18th century dental chairs. “It pays homage to the time when barbers were also surgeons and doctors,” he explains. The nautical theme is continued with a large oak barrel that you can imagine transporting rum or gold centuries ago, which Jamie picked up in France before cutting it open and fitting a sink for a front wash. Incredible ingenuity that adds to the sense of history in the shop. Add in a cabinet piece from the 18th century, and a display case from the 19th century, and it can be hard to remember exactly what millennium you’re in when you visit The Barbership. But Jamie isn’t scared to update things when necessary. “I’m always adding little bits to it,” says Jamie. “The waiting chairs are from an old jury house – as they already had a couple hundred years on them the upholstery is wearing a bit thin!”

“It pays homage to the time when barbers were also surgeons and doctors”


The Men’s Room Joseph Lanzante has expanded his well-established brand by opening his third barbershop in Victoria Station.

Following his successful business empire which includes two thriving barber shops and a training facility in Accrington, ‘The Mens Room, Manchester’ has seen the internationally established stylist bring his expertise to the city centre. With more than 30 years in the business, Joseph Lanzante’s credentials are second to none. Trained at the prestigious Alan International Hair Salon in London’s Knightsbridge, he became the international trainer for an American salon franchise, one of the largest in the world, boasting 2800 establishments. The Mens Room, Manchester was the next exciting step for Joseph as he expanded his barbering craftmanship into the North West. The new barbershop has four chairs and has welcomed six inspiring barbers and hairdressers who were willing to go through his rigorous training process to meet his high standards.

Joseph chose to invest in Manchester and in particular Victoria Station to help build the profile of this iconic building. The Mens Room will help to bring in more clientele, making it not only a destination for travel but a retail spot for all to enjoy.

The new barber shop in Victoria station has undergone an exciting refurbishment to fall in line with the Joseph Lanzante brand. Keeping up with tradition and complementing the architectural features of the grade II listed building, The Mens Room is decorated in a timeless barbershop style, complete with marble countertops, mahogany fittings and other elegant materials to ensure customers feel special during their time in the chair. Joseph has brought a range of barbering expertise to the city centre location, including his classic Cut Throat Shave, which he believes is an important aspect of the industry that isn’t used widely enough.

3 Victoria Station Approach, Manchester M3 1WY

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01253 893 091 www.coolblades.co.uk

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Stacey Mccabe hairbychrisfoster Andykruczek Model: georgehart22 Model: driekconstantine MUA: sattygill_71

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Tag rNVmag to featur azine e your wo rk!




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@kieronmarkey @the.bearded.mann BarberNV Magazine | 79


Dr Nestor Demosthenous Just a number?

What to expect from the ageing process Age affects every aspect of our lives, both inside and out. Along with the knowledge and achievements that - hopefully - come hand in hand with the increasing years, there are those changes to the way we look that can be a little harder to deal with.

Words: Dr Nestor

Changes, both physically and mentally, can prove challenging. But, armed with an understanding of what lies in store and a knowledge of the treatments available to allow you to age as well as possible, you can prepare yourself to tackle the ageing process head on. If you look after your general health and wellbeing, eat a balanced diet, exercise, stop smoking, and cut down on alcohol, you can give yourself a head start when it comes to ageing well. And, by targeting specific areas through the decades, you can use non-surgical rejuvenating treatments to keep you looking the best you can for the age you are. We take a look here at the options available. Receding hairline For some men who suffer from male pattern baldness, it can feel as if the ageing process starts at quite a young age. In certain cases, it can begin as early as 20 years old, although it more commonly occurs between the ages of 25 and 35.   If you are concerned about hair loss, it is never too early to seek advice. It may well be too early to undertake treatment in your 20s, but the right consultant will be able to advise on what type of treatment would be most suitable and, crucially, when to do it. There are two successful techniques for hair transplant surgery: Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE) and Follicular Unit Transplantation (FUT), both of which we carry out at the Edinburgh clinic. The most suitable treatment will be based on the technique that best suits your hair and scalp, while the final result of either procedure is always a natural-looking hairline. We offer a free consultation to discuss your concerns, give you a realistic expectation of what hair transplant surgery can offer you and explain in full which transplant technique will yield the best, most natural, result. When it comes to faces ageing, there are steps to be taken throughout your 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s, and onwards that will help you to age as well as you possibly can. Skin health in your 20s It may seem hard to believe, but skin starts to age in our mid-20s. One aspect of growing older is that the production of collagen which is a protein found in bones, muscles, skin and tendons that essentially holds the body together - slows down and as a result

80 | BarberNV Magazine

elastin, which works with collagen and allows skin to spring back to shape, doesn’t work as well as it once did. The first decisive signs of skin ageing such as lines, wrinkles and sun spots, may not appear until your early 30s, but changes are already happening.

speaking, there is only one Botox, which is made by a company called Allergan. Botox has been used medically for more than 60 years and cosmetically for 26 years. It is the most researched drug in the world, so it’s very safe when used correctly and in the right hands.

This is the time to look after your skin, protect it from sun damage by using a sunscreen that shields against both UVA and UVB light, which will pay off when it comes to keeping complexions looking more youthful.

Botox is used to stop the communication between the nerve end and muscle, stopping that muscle from contracting and halting the muscle activity that would create lines and wrinkles caused by smiling, frowning, or raising your eyebrows. It is particularly effective for forehead and scowl lines, as well as crows’ feet, with results that give a fresher, more youthful but still natural look.

Starting a skincare routine now, which incorporates cleansing, exfoliating, and moisturising, will also benefit you in the years to come. Smoking has a huge impact on the way skin ages, causing lines, wrinkles and dryness, so, aside from the health implications, it takes its toll visibly too. Skin health in your 30s If you are concerned about deepening wrinkles or expression lines between the brows, Botox can be administered to stop wrinkles in their tracks. Even though the term ‘Botox’ has been around for years, many people don’t really know what it is or does. Botox is actually the brand name of a drug made from botulinum toxin and several companies make a version of it. Strictly

Skin health in your 40s Young skin contains a naturally hydrating substance called hyaluronic acid (HA), however the ageing process reduces the amount of HA in our skin. Faces also lose youthful fat, which provides shape and volume. Dermal fillers are an increasingly popular, non-invasive option to restore those areas of lost volume, stopping faces from looking droopy or sagging. The most common areas to benefit are the lines that extend from the nose to the corners of the mouth, known as the nasolabial folds, and those that run from the corners of the mouth

Aesthetics to the chin, known as marionette lines, which can give faces a ‘sad’ appearance. A safe, effective, and minimally invasive way to replace the HA your skin has lost as well as the volume found in youthful features, dermal fillers can be used to soften fine lines or to restore volume and facial contours creating a natural-looking more youthful appearance. Skin health in your 50s and beyond For facial ageing concerns that require a more robust approach, Silhouette Soft is a unique thread lift that provides an immediate mechanical lifting effect for faces as well as a biological lift. Because the process stimulates the natural production of collagen in the months that follow treatment, the results are ongoing and natural looking. Sutures are inserted into the skin before a slight tightening of the suture threads enables the surface of the skin to be reshaped, giving it a smoother and lifted appearance. The action, which continues over time, helps to increase lost volume and restore shape to the face naturally.

Dr Nestor is based between his Medical Cosmetic Centre in Edinburgh, and the PHI Clinic on Harley Street. To find out more and book a consultation, please visit www.drnestor.co.uk.

If you look after your general health and wellbeing, eat a balanced diet, exercise, stop smoking, and cut down on alcohol, you can give yourself a head start when it comes to ageing well.

As you can see, there are a number of options to explore. The main thing is that any treatment should be carried out by a certified consultant who can guide and advise you on the best course of action.

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BarberNV Magazine | 81


December/January Training Dates Date

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Learn the true art of maLe grooming Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - the leading barbering expert. › Traditional barbering one day clipper cutting course

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