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Inspiring UK & Ireland Barbering success

Issue 12.

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News | Products | EVENTS | Features | EDUCATION BarberNV Magazine | 1


2 | BarberNV Magazine


Welcome Simon Ritchie

Editor

G’day! You’re currently holding (or viewing online thanks to our commitment to provide our magazine free of charge on the internet to anyone who wants it) our biggest issue by far. The reason for that is the standard of work we’re seeing is getting better and better, so bravo barbers! Not to mention the number of you with amazing stories to tell, and we want to be the ones to tell them – so please get in touch. This issues sees us travel around the world to visit our Australian cousins. Our relationship with beloved brand Uppercut Deluxe helped spark that but what we found was a country packed to the brim with barbering spirit and talent. The good that barbering can achieve is personified in Nasir Sobhani, The Streets Barber, and you need to read his fantastic interview. We’ve also spoke with a couple of British barbers down under – one established and one just starting her life there and there’s a lot of good advice to take in. Other than Australia we were delighted to visit the Netherlands for BarberSociety Live and we have a bumper special devoted to it, including an interview with The B.O.M.B. Squad’s Alan Findlay

(the fact he’s a regular columnist helped there!) and with headline Dutch barber Joost Mulleman. What an event it was, a real laidback, chilled vibe with barbers from across Europe and plenty of good Dutch and Belgian beer – we’ll certainly be back! Closer to home, our Barber of the Month is Sindi Devitte, owner of Barbersclan in Coventry. Although she’s not scared of the odd international trip, taking Tom Chapman back to her native Brazil recently to help with her barbering academy that is giving fresh hope to local barbers. A true inspiration. The issue is so packed I can’t even come close to talking about it all, as I haven’t even mentioned the likes of our interview with Ivan “the clipper guy” Zoot and our Barber Shop of the Month, the Ross Carter Barbershop, but it’s all in there! So relax and enjoy! Remember we love to hear your feedback so get in touch via Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, or email!

Simon Ritchie Founder Joanne Reid | Editor Simon Ritchie | Head Graphic Designer Ross Stewart | Assistant Graphic Designer Cara Scott | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil | Editorial Assistant Sophie Kernachan Design & Marketing PrintNV | Columnists Alan Findlay, Rob & Dan Rix, Larry the Barber Man, Sid Sottung | Thanks Alison Jameson Consultants, Brian Hays Photography, Essence PR, Seven Publicity, Vivid PR, LWPR, B TheAgency, Fellowship of British Hairdressing, National Hairdressers Federation, Barber Council, British Barbers’ Association, British Master Barbers International Barber Awards, 1o1 Barbers, BarberSociety Live, Joost Mulleman, The B.O.M.B Squad, Ivan Zoot, Liam Hamilton, Armour to Barber, Tom Chapman, Sindi Devitte, Jack the Clipper, The Barbership, Mr. Blonde, Uppercut Deluxe, Uros Mikic, Nicole Coia, Jordon McKenny, Nasir Sobhani, Ross Carter, Barber Equipment Centre, Fellowship for British Hairdressing, Joseph Lanzante, Nestor Demosthenous, Robert Rix, Larry the Barber Man. Cover Image Hair: Tommy J, photographed by: Pete Cagnacci Pictures Shutterstock | Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and Gallas Print & Digital Media Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

BarberNV Magazine | 3


HAIR SHAPER THE ORIGINAL. 25 YEARS AND STILL GOING STRONG

YANNY TOKYO, GERMAN-BORN, LONDON-BASED MODEL TURNED ORGANIC FARMER AND ARTIST.

Find your stockist At:Fudgeprofessional.com Hair by London School of Barbering Art Team | londonschoolbarbering.com 4 | BarberNV Magazine

Fudgehair


INDUSTRY NEWS

international barber

06 8

UPPERCUT DELUXE

58 NICOLE COIA

awards

BARBERSOCIETY LIVE

48 BEHIND THE BRAND:

10

64 JORDON MCKENNY 68 NASIR SOBHANI

SHABA

18 74 ROSS CARTER

editor’s choice

GROOMING

22 24

FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT 26 combs & brushes 28

96 MEN’S FASHION WEEK 36 NEW SHOPS 80 JOSEPH LANZANTE 80 FELLOWSHIP

APPAREL

29

84 TAKARA BELMONT

IVAN ZOOT

30

92 DR NESTOR

SINDI DEVITTE 34 UROS MIKIC 44

110 ROB RIX 112 Alan Findlay

Contents Issue 12

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TIME TO SHUSH! Tom Chapman, Founder of The Lions Barber Collective and International Barber teamed up with Samaritans to help raise awareness and promote the importance of listening to one another. Tom Chapman said: “We, as barbers are in such a privilege position behind the chair. We often make a huge difference to our clients without even knowing the impact we may have had.” Mental health campaigners Jonny Benjamin MBE and Neil Laybourn, whose friendship came from Neil taking time to listen to Jonny when he felt suicidal, showed their support by going for a quick trim at Samaritan’s pop-up barber’s at King’s Cross station. Hairdressers across the UK are backing the campaign to get everyone downloading Samaritans’ SHUSH! Listening Tips and taking time to let others talk. With an estimated 2,000 hours a year each spent listening to clients, they know the difference to people’s lives it makes. Tom Chapman said: “We are stronger together and the more we can join up and get the message out about how crucial listening is, the better.”

WAHL BRITISH BARBER OF THE YEAR Fancy being crowned Wahl’s British Barber of the Year 2017? Entries are now open for one of the most prestigious awards in the industry. Last year’s winner Andrea Raymond was rewarded with a place on the Wahl Artistic Team so it’s more than just a fancy title! To enter, email bboy@wahl.co.uk with 3-6 pictures of your work and a brief biography of your background, career highlights, and anything else that might set you apart from the rest.

native’s rockstar UK brand Native have appointed Michael Beasley, proprietor of Rockstars Barber & Coffee in Birmingham as their first Brand Ambassador. Michael, who regular BarberNV readers will be well aware of, is a long-time user of the independent brand and as well as promoting

them in his chain of shops will also be showcasing his talents with signature cuts on their website that inform Native users on what to ask their barbers to ensure they get the cut they want. You can check out the multi-talented Michael on Instagram under @justmikethatsme

Samaritans’ The Big Listen also has support from leading celebrity hairdresser, Verona White, who stopped by to style Neil’s hair. Verona White said: “Everyone needs someone to talk to and it’s not always family. A good listener will let people talk and read the person and be responsive, it’s not about giving advice.”

GBBA RECRUITS FOUR NEW EDUCATORS chris’s HAIR RAISING GAMBLE Google’s Engineering Director Bjorn Bringert must have hit ‘I’m feeling lucky’ when he searched for a barber as none other than Chris Foster popped into their offices for an unorthodox cut! After the Android Search team at Google had won a bet with Bjorn, the team had the choice of what they would have him do as a result. After throwing a few daring ideas around, the team settled on the idea of Bjorn getting a new haircut, featuring the icon of the team’s app. Chris stepped up to the plate and knocked it out of the park with the fantastic coloured ‘G’ design on Bjorn’s head – that’ll teach him to bet against his staff! 6 | BarberNV Magazine

The Great British Barbering Academy has wasted no time in expanding its ranks with the appointment of four more experienced educators: Yucel Olmezkaya from Gould Barbers in King’s Lynn, Norfolk; Barri Lazarou from Lazarou Brothers in Birchgrove, Cardiff; Liam Hamilton from Hamilton’s Barbershop in Redruth, Cornwall; and Sean Sweeney from Sweeney’s Barbershop in Dinas Powys, The Vale of Glamorgan, have all

joined the Academy after impressing Head Educator Mike Taylor. Mike said: “I was blown away by the skills, knowledge, and confidence that Yucel, Barri, Liam and Sean demonstrated at Barber UK. They are all a testament to how far barbering has come in the modern era and I am very excited to welcome them into our team.” Watch out for their bespoke barbering courses within their local catchment areas in the coming months.


Alison SCATTER-GREAT! East Durham College barbering lecturer Alison Scattergood has added to her many accolades by becoming the first person an education provider to be awarded membership to the Fellowship for British Hairdressing Creative Excellence. Membership to the prestigious society is usually only awarded to retail barbers and hairdressers but Alison qualified for membership after registering her interest and presenting a fully-styled model to a panel of six judges at the Wella Hair Academy. Alison said: “This is truly the high point

of my career so far. It’s a real honour to have my work recognised by the fellowship and now to be a member of this highly respected society alongside some true greats in the hair and barbering world, such as Errol Douglas and Trevor Sorbie, means everything to me. “And being the first person to be recognised from an education background, I hope I can pass on my knowledge to other fellowship members to educate them about the importance of recognised qualifications in hairdressing and barbering.”

chESTER’S BEST Stylist Dan Arden from Number 47 Barbers in Hoole has won the first ever competitive barbering competition in Chester. In a tense final at Esquire Gents Grooming, a city centre salon, Dan took home first prize with his precise and innovative cutting, in a competition set up to help strengthen Chester’s barbering community. Nathan Jones, owner of Esquire, said: “The competition has been a great way to bring local businesses together. All the participants showed a great level of professionalism and flair when competing to become Chester’s Barber of the Year.”

Wahl’s cutting edge BUSY VCTC Wahl is putting the ‘edge in education’ with a brand new college training programme; “Men’s Method”. Wahl will provide barbers, men’s hairdressers and educators with the fundamental support and skills required to succeed in the industry, thus ensuring the standard of British barbering and men’s hairdressing is second to none. Launched in June, Men’s Method is a unique college training programme that combines the rich history of men’s hairdressing with contemporary salon techniques. Only a limited number of Wahl Men’s Method UK Training Academies will be approved each year, meeting a set of criteria to prove their cutting credentials. Once approved, Academies will be able to offer the education programme, making a

statement to learners, peers and the industry. Simon Shaw, Global Artistic Director of Wahl UK, said: “This is the most elite college training academy programme for barbers and men’s hairdressers in the UK, and we will only be accepting the very, very best. The Wahl name is prestigious, so we are careful about who we let use the name. But, if you think you’ve got what it takes to join this exclusive programme, get in touch so we can put you through your paces and see if you are Wahl Men’s Method UK Training Academy material.“ Think your college, FE or HE centre has what it takes to become a Wahl Men’s Method UK Training Academy? Do you have ‘the edge’ to deliver a forward thinking course?

Scumbassadors! The Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier team have added to their ever growing list of so-called ‘Scumbassadors’ of their Reuzel brand after an eventful trip to America. An intense training course carried out by their heads of education Becca May, George Accattato, and Barber Nelis, the headmaster at the Old School academy, has seen a new group of

It’s been a busy month for the VTCT as the qualifications organisation not only signed a new deal with education technology company Pivot Point International to improve learner experience and raise the standard of training in the hair and beauty sectors, but also launched their Skills Foresight and the case for Mandatory Registration reports in Westminster alongside The Hair and Barber Council. The deal with Pivot Point will see their Salonability resource, a training programme developed for the UK and featuring print and online support that covers the hairdressing and barbering national occupational standards, relaunched in September and will give VTCT centres, including tutors and learners, free access to the update online program. Meanwhile the 2017 Skills Foresight report provides insight into the changing skills landscape within the sector, and identifies ways in which the government can meet any challenges and ensure high standards of training and qualifications.

Stateside barbers learn everything they need to know to spread the greasy word of Lard. They converged on Chicago to increase their knowledge base and help to expand the ever growing Reuzel brand even further. Keep your eye out for opportunities to get involved with Reuzel, and start by getting it stocked in your barbershop! BarberNV Magazine | 7


B

arbers from across Europe are taking part in the first International Barber Awards that will see regional qualifiers taking place in countries all over the continent before the grand finale in Nuremberg this October. The event is organised by 1o1 Barbers in Germany who have previously ran the Germany’s Best Barber competition, but this year they have taken it to another level. The United Kingdom heats are taking place on August 20th in London and August 21st in Glasgow, with 12 barbers from the UK who have reached this stage invited to battle for their place in Germany. It’s a truly one-of-a-kind event and will inspire creativity and invention on a global scale. We’ll have images from both the UK qualifiers and the rest from around Europe in the next issue as well as the lowdown on who you’ll see in Germany, and BarberNV will be there to cover the action live.

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CREATED BY BARBERS. USED BY GENTLEMEN.

REUZEL.CO.UK 0 1 3 9 2

3 6 5 1 7 7

REUZEL UK

@reuzel

@reuzeluk

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The crowds have dispersed, Amsterdam has just about run of beer, and flights have been missed. But what a day! Barbering knowledge that will live long in the memory (despite the drinking!) has been passed on from some world class experts to hundreds of keen barbers. BarberSociety Live take two has been yet another tremendous success, with over 400 barbers from not just the Netherlands but around Europe coming together to share knowledge, chew the fat, and celebrate our industry. It was a truly special sight to see such a multi-cultural audience embracing the day, with Dutch, British, and Italian barbers all sharing the stage to inform and educate. Language barriers were cast aside as barbering was the lingua franca, with impromptu shows on the smaller stages in the middle of the room giving everyone a chance to get up close and personal with the action. No fewer than 45 companies in barbering and associated sectors took part in the event, including main sponsor American Crew and sponsor Wahl, showing the calibre of company keen to be linked with BarberSociety Live. Amongst the superstar barbers on show were some of BarberNV’s favourites, such as Sid Sottung, Chris Foster, MENSPIRE, Sam Wall, and Luigi Scapicchio. You can read exclusive interviews with two of the biggest stars of the show, Joost Mulleman who drew the biggest crowd of the day, and the world famous The B.O.M.B. Squad, on the pages ahead. Marc van de Hare, the event’s initiator and organiser, said: “We made a real statement through this second edition of the only and largest barbers-only event in the Netherlands and Belgium. Our attention is focused fully on real barbers and we’re dedicated to meeting the needs of this exclusive target group. BarberSociety Live provides an experience that has already gained a permanent place on the calendar of the barbering industry.” Sounds like a third event is on the cards, trust us when we say you don’t want to miss it – we’ll see you there!

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Zuiveringshal West

Westergasfabriek Pazzanistraat 33,

1014 DB Amsterdam, Netherlands

Photography: Darren Fotografie

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joost t h e

ti c ket

At an event filled with names that UK barbers will be familiar with, like Chris Foster, Sid Sottung, Sam Wall, and The BOMB Squad, it was a lesser known talent (to a UK audience anyway) who brought in the biggest crowd. Joost Mulleman.

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he could do it. Joost says: “Travelling around the world inspired me since a very young age. I started travelling around the world with a comb and a pair of scissors to develop myself and to see all kinds of different ways of working.” While his travels opened his mind to a world of different cultures and ideas, he felt that barbering doesn’t change no matter where you are. He says that all that has “changed is the popularity of the craft and the image it has now. In my opinion, barbering is all about this amazing craft and developing your skills every day to become a better barber and become a better person for yourself and for your client.

He’s no well-kept secret and if you’re using Instagram (who isn’t?) then the chances are you’re already well aware of his work and of his Barber School Amsterdam which is helping develop a new generation of Dutch barbers. BarberSociety Live When Marc Van de Hare first envisioned taking what started with his BarberSociety group and creating a barbering spectacle for all barbers to enjoy, Joost was one of the first names on his list. And for Joost it was a chance to further spread the word of his education project. He explains that “because of the popularity of the Barber School, we thought last year that it would be a good idea to tell our story at BarberSociety Live: what we stand for and what we are doing for the barber industry in the Netherlands.” Doubling the size of the inaugural event, there was always a risk that this year’s BarberSociety Live would struggle, however all doubters were proved wrong by the delighted audience who came out in numbers, none more so than for Joost’s

headline act in front of a home crowd. “For me it was great to have such a crowd around the stage,” Joost admits. “I have the honour to work in different countries and to go to show and educate with Esquire grooming, but in the Netherlands most of the time people can only see my work or see me working on social media. At BarberSociety Live it was great to showcase my style and way of working for a lot of Dutch barbers.” With his stage work such a big success, it’s unlikely to be the last we see of Joost at BarberSociet Live and he is certainly keen to return. “I would love to be involved next year,” he tells us. “I hope it’s going to keep getting better and keep bringing barbers together to have a great day with lots of inspiration and fun.” Adventurous Spirit If you didn’t manage to see Joost at this year’s BarberSociety Live (where were you?), you can always keep your eye out for when he comes to a location closer to you, as he is quite the globetrotter. In 2011, he worked his way through Australia and Asia with little more than clothes on his back, just to prove

“What I like is the fact everybody has their own style and own way of working. All these ways of working are coming from a very strong basic technique and sometimes my students inspire me as well. In the end its al about quality and doing what makes you happy. In this way you can be inspired by others and inspire others as well.” Barber School Understandably, Joost is incredibly proud of the students at his Barber School and the work he has achieved there. He has built an academy that caters to the true sense of what barbering always has been, and what it can be. He tells us: “My inspiration to start the Barber School had to do with a vision I always had. Creating a place where male hairdressers/barbers get education with a true craftsmanship vision. Taking all knowledge of old school barbering and modern male hairdressing to one place of learning. That place is Barber School Amsterdam. The reality of being trained by top barbers where you can learn at the highest level an important blend of modern male hairdressing and classic barbering, all under one roof. It’s not only about your technical skills but everything that comes with the craft.” It’s just the start for both Joost and the Barber School, and the Dutchman is excited about what’s to come. “I have big plans for the future,” he says. “With both the Barber School and with the product line Esquire Grooming. “Working on big events worldwide, creating our own new collection for the Barber School Amsterdam, keeping everybody happy, and enjoying what we all are doing! “I would be very happy if I could go to the UK this year for education or shows. Sharing knowledge is a privilege and hopefully I can do this for a long time and work with a lot of barbers around the world.”

At BarberSociety Live it was great to showcase my style and way of working for a lot of Dutch barbers

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Barbers of Modern Britain

The B.O.M.B. Squad meet up with Alan’s Rebel Rebel Art Team, The RAT Pack

Three men. Three countries. One big idea: To inspire and educate the barbering community.


Meet the Squad...

As the models strutted on stage in Amsterdam, the Union flag gowns flowing behind them left no question marks about who would shortly be following them out. The most internationally acclaimed performers at BarberSociety Live and one of the forerunners of the artistic movement sweeping through the industry – The B.O.M.B. Squad. Three barbers from the three constituent countries of Britain, we spoke with Scottish representative Alan Findlay about everything B.O.M.B.

Alan on his teammates: “Foxy [Martin Fox] is the kind of quiet man I suppose. In terms of, when he’s got something to say it normally means something, whereas me and James [Beattie] are the loudmouths! I think there’s a nice balance with that. Foxy is a really deep thinking guy with an amazing amount of talent and creative spark, so to speak, when it comes to coming up with concepts and ideas: how we’re going to present ourselves and maybe what theme we’re going to use for our photo shoot and stuff like that. Foxy is definitely a big inspiration in that part. “James is like the catalyst who brings us all together. He’s a real livewire and a real people person. He’s someone that can really reach out and connect with people in a way that maybe they haven’t been connected with before. So I think when you throw us all together on the stage we offer something that’s a wee bit different from what’s already been done.”


BSL B.O.M.B. The B.O.M.B. Squad is woven into the history of BarberSociety Live having performed at both of their events in Amsterdam. Alan tells us how they came to be part of the story. “Marc Van de Hare, the organiser from BarberSociety Live, first approached us on stage at Barber Connect about four or five years ago so he set the seeds pretty early. He obviously mentioned he was planning on building this thing up and it took him a couple of years to get it off the ground and then he invited us last year. “It was a small scale event but it was really good and we really enjoyed it. The best thing about it was we had been doing all these shows in the UK but everything was becoming quite stagnant. It’s all the same format and everyone’s just interested in making money. It’s the young guys who are going up on stage doing all the work who are being left behind – they’re getting nothing for it. “The good thing with Marc and what he does is he’s a very fair guy, he puts on this really cool event and the organisation is first class. His wife Miranda has a lot to thank for that. She’s an event organiser and the contacts she has and the brands she puts in the event makes it look great. “This year was the second event and it was massive. I think it’s still got so much to grow and I think guys like Barber Connect and Barber Bash can really learn a lot of good things from what BarberSociety Live is doing. Personally I really enjoyed working with Marc and doing work on his stage – for me it’s one of the best events I’ve ever personally worked at and hopefully we bring something different to the Netherlands.” 16 | BarberNV Magazine

The fuse is lit The name Barbers Elite might not mean a lot to barbers of a younger generation but an experiment at creating one of barbering’s first artistic teams led to the creation of The B.O.M.B. Squad. “I think it was back in 2011,” Alan reminisces. “Foxy, James Beattie, and I were part of Barbers Elite, probably the first art team in the UK. It was the NHF who were in charge of that but they cut our funding so we decided to do it ourselves. “It was young James who came up with the idea for The B.O.M.B Squad.” For Alan, James, and Martin, it was a chance to flex their creative muscles and create something to match their ambitions and show that barbering could create art to match their industry peers. On the creation of barbering art teams in general, Alan says: “I think it was inevitable. If you look at hairdressing, they’ve had art teams since way back in the 70s, 80s so they’ve had a good 40, 50 years head start on us. “When we first set out we worked with Colin McAndrew from Medusa who was the head guy of the female art team at the NHF, so I think we learned a lot from Colin and his team. They showed us how we should be presenting our work and I think from there we just kept learning and adding bits and pieces.” Going nuclear Timing is everything, and the barber boom went hand in hand with the rise of The B.O.M.B. Squad, although it’s not hard to believe they may have had a pivotal role. “I think it’s obvious,” says Alan. “Anyone who’s went up on stage to present something and tried to show people the way you do it has obviously had a part of it, and not just in the UK, the world in general. “This is the renaissance of barbering right now. We’ve got so much going on with the education side of it, so many training schools, so many art teams, so many people spending money in our industry now, it’s created room for young guys to come through and express themselves.” So what inspired them to take their knowledge and do what few barbers had done before and get on stage? “It was the fact that we really enjoyed doing that creative stuff: creating photo shoots, working on different projects and different ideas that could push the boundaries of barbering. We really enjoy passing on that education so the next generation of young kids have got a good standing, a good foothold in the barbering industry.” Shockwave The B.O.M.B. Squad are in demand across the UK and beyond to showcase their unique collections and pass down their wisdom, but they aren’t stopping there. The guys are currently designing their own product range which could see them truly go global and despite their fantastic reception at BarberSociety Live Alan believes there’s still plenty more that can be done across Europe. “I think Europe is in its infancy in terms of barbering events,” he explains. “I think the UK and America has a head start over the world, a lot of places looking at us for inspiration. But I love working these types of events and you learn something new every time.”


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#SHABA17

Barbering Finalists 2017 Barber Shop

Female Barber

Apprentice Barber

Stag Barber Co Rag and Bone Barbershop Rebel Rebel Barbers Clyde Barbers Orbit Smoke Barbers Miss Barbarettes Handsome Jacks Lewys Barber Room

Gemma Willock-Smith Rebel Rebel Barbers Tammie Kirkwood The Barber Sarah Anderson Sarah Anderson Hair Carah Glassey Miss Barbarettes Deneka Greensmith Rag and Bone Barbershop Lori Crawley Urban Hair and Beauty Highhouse Angela J Todd The Barber Lounge Dianne Philbin Statement barbers Vikki-Leigh Kane Huntsman

Jake Lees Rogues and Rascals Shannon McClue Urban Hair and Beauty Highhouse Charley Thomson Orbit Smoke Barbers Marc Cran Huntsman Craig West The Barber Lounge

Male Barber Graeme Milne Rebel Rebel Barbers Lewis Gomes Lewys Barber Room Murray McRae Stag Barber Co Grant Carr Mr Blonde Scott Williams Boombarbers Jack Kennedy Miss barbarettes James Johnstone The Barber Ryan Black Clyde Barbers

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Wet Shave Suzie Gillespie The Players Lounge Philip Simons Phunk U Ashley Montgomery AHC Hair and Beauty


I

t’s almost show time! With almost 50,000 votes cast by the public, the competition for this year’s Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards is fiercer than ever. Barbers and barbershops from across the country have been enlisting the help of their clients to put them into the final and in with a chance of winning one of the prestigious awards on offer. Mark September 10th in your diaries, as the industry’s biggest names and hottest talents descend

upon the Marriott Hotel in Glasgow for a glitzy and glamorous night celebrating the creativity and class in the hair and beauty business. Among the a-list names already confirmed to be attending are Chris Foster, Simon Shaw, Johnny BaBa, the legendary Errol Douglas, and Fellowship for British Hairdressing President Karine Jackson. Tickets are on sale now from scottishhairandbeautyawards.com

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Hair: @chrisoriordanhair of @st4menkillarney Photography: Kestutis Anuzis @kestphotographer Model: Mark Cahill

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s h o w c as e


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Editor’s Comment If anyone can get to the bottom of the barber boom then our good friend Tom Chapman is the man. He’s travelled around the world, scissors in hand, including a trip to Brazil in this issue, speaking with everyone involved in the industry and his book should be an interesting insight. Meanwhile Uppercut Deluxe’s new Easy Hold is giving barbers yet another excellent product choice. It really is a great time to be a barber.

American Crew Fiber Cream One of giants of the industry have added to their already extensive range with this Fiber Cream which acts as a flexible alternative to their much-loved Fiber. Gives hair refined texture and a natural shine finish while still maintaining control. with a long lasting hold. £12.90 – americancrew.com

Fudge Professional Xpander Jelly Thinning hair is the scourge of men everywhere but by targeting sparse, vulnerable hair with this lightweight, non-sticky jelly, you can increase the density of hair by up to 100%. It maintains the hair’s own texture and feel for a truly natural look. £12.95 – fudgeprofessional.com

Uppercut Deluxe Easy Hold Specifically designed to leave your hair feeling weightless but with a light hold, this water based cream allows you to craft textured, voluminous styles effortlessly. Helping you achieve a natural, flawless finish with no sign of the product once applied. Keep your eye out for the limited edition Easy Rider tin. £8.50 – uppercutdeluxe.com

Gareth Clark Hair For Men Offering salons the chance to sell their very own personalised styling range is becoming more and more popular these days, and Gareth Clark Hair For Men have produced this simple and clean range through DB Agencies. Come in a variety of matt and sheen finishes. Yourbrandhairproducts.com

Editor’s ChoiceENVY 22 | BarberNV Magazine


Hanz de Fuko Modify Pomade Old school pomade with a modern day twist! This lightweight, medium-hold formulation will keep your favourite classic look firmly in place with tremendous shine. Softer and less greasy than its mineral oil predecessors while giving hair smoothness and definition. $19.50 – hanzdefuko.com

Johnny’s Chop Shop Beard Shampoo They call it ‘the ultimate’ and the masculine aromatic notes of spicy black pepper and cedar wood certainly don’t require any further touches although a beard oil can be a nice finisher. Softens and strengthens the beard to while removing any traces of styling products. £7 – johnnys-chopshop.com

Dapper Dan Heavy Hold Pomade Keep your style locked-in all day long with this heavy hold pomade from the gentlemanly chaps at Dapper Dan. Oil based and heavy yet water soluble due to being petrolatum free, it offers superior hold and shine without the build-up. £13.50 – dapperdanuk.com

King Brown Matte Pomade Australian brand King Brown’s Matte Pomade is a great all-rounder for a natural look, textured style. The unique clay and beeswax blend has the perfect balance to create a pliable dry hold, with an earthy scent containing notes of basil, rosemary, bergamot, cedar wood, and leather. $24 – kingbrownpomade.com

Tom Chapman’s The Barber Boom: Creating a new sub culture We’re not sure where he found the time to do it whilst running his own salon in Torquay and expanding the Lions Barber Collective, but Tom Chapman has written a book on the boom that has propelled barbering to the same level as hairdressing. By speaking to both experienced and up-and-coming barbers from all over the world, he’s delved deep into the hows and whys of our industry. Coming Soon

Editor’s ChoiceENVY BarberNV Magazine | 23


Evo Builder’s Paradise Boasting a lightweight and fast-drying formula, this medium-hold hairspray is great for building styles and adding texture. It brushes out easily and rinses out completely with water, but adds flexible control even in hot and humid conditions. £19.95 – evohair.co.uk

Beard Doctor Beard Perfume New guys on the block are making a big impression, and a big smelling sensation with their beard perfumes. Made from organic grapes and a combination of argan oil, mint, and eucalyptus essential oils plus patchouli perfume, the unique spray bottle allows you to freshen your beard any time, with no risk of oily hands! £14.90 – bearddoctor.co.uk

Dapper Dan Beard Oil Maximise the potential of your facial foliage with this luxury blend of essential oils that softens and nourishes the beard and skin. Available in a stylish 50ml barrel-style bottle or 15ml straight sided bottle with dropper plug. £19.95 – dapperdanuk.com

Fudge Treatment Time Machine As men move away from the simple short back and sides look, they are putting more strain on their hair via blow-drying, colouring, and use of products. Fudge Professional’s new system repairs breakages to the internal structures of the hair shaft and the surface cuticle for stronger, softer, smoother, and more flexible hair. Two steps are used in-salon with the final delivered at home, offering an extra retail opportunity. Fudgeprofessional.com

groomingENVY 24 | BarberNV Magazine


TIGI Bed Head for Men Mo Rider Shape, sculpt, and twist your moustache into your desired style with ease thanks to this crafty little product from TIGI. It moisturises and hydrates facial fuzz to give you a well-groomed, dapper finish without greasy or sticky residue. £9.95 – lookfantastic.co.uk

Johnny’s Chop Shop No.1 Matt Paste Reworkable styling past for a matt textured finish, definition, and strong hold without stickiness. The strong branding makes it instantly recognisable in your salon and will be your clients’ most sought after product. £7 – johnnys-chopshop.com

Proraso Shave Cream Famed as the leading Italian barbershop shaving brand for over 80 years, it doesn’t get much more traditional than Proraso. Their shaving cream contains eucalyptus and coconut oils, glycerine, and lanonlin to give a close, comfortable shave whilst protecting sensitive skin. £5.69 – shaving-shack.com

Daimon Barber Fixing Pomade Looking to control high and tight styles or hair that’s being that little bit difficult? This super-strong hold water-based pomade is just the ticket. Complemented with the spicy and sophisticated scent of oudh and Egyptian mallow. £20 – daimonbarber.co.uk

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Aquis Professional Hair Towel Engineered to dry hair to a damp stage quickly and evenly, this revolutionary towel can cut trying time in half while protecting hair from friction caused by bath towels and heat damage caused by blow dryers on wet hair. Leaves hair looking shinier while colour is vibrant and lasts longer. £5 – aquishair.co.uk

Matzuzaki Scissors TV-575 A hit not only in Japan but also in the USA and Europe, the TV-575 is ideal for fine and delicate cutting work and comes at a very reasonable price. Comfortable to use, you’ll make quick work of creative styles. £149.99 – prosalonsupply.co.uk

Personalised Hanging Salon Sign & Bracket Fully weather proof for outside use, this double sided sign can be personalised to your shop name making you instantly recognisable on your street and helping you stand out from the crowd. It has a curved wrought hanging bracket and is a 3mm thick aluminium composite. £273 + VAT – salonequipmentcentre.co.uk

Takra Belmont GT Sportsman Possibly the most popular Takara Belmont grooming chair ever and it’s not hard to see why. With its classic racing car overtones, it’s a firm barbershop favourite and has become famous for its durability and highperformance. Lighter and slimmer than many of its contemporaries, it’s perfectly suited for a demanding barbershop environment. £1,030+ - takarahairdressing.co.uk

The Denman Tool Bag A practical, essential product for all barbers, this tool bag has a large main compartment for all barbering tools, as well as two inner removable sleeves, the ideal size for scissors and combs, as well as front and side compartments to keep utensils handy. Fitted with a strap for easier transport. £30 – denmanbrush.com

Furniture & equipmentENVY 26 | BarberNV Magazine


Hexagonal 4x5 Anti-Fatigue Mat Barbering injuries are a serious matter and a good antifatigue mat can reduce pain and strain on your back, neck, legs, and feet – believe us, you’ll be thanking us ten years from now! At the same time it safeguards your floor from scratches and unattractive stains. $139 – salonsmart.com

REM Viscount Barber Chair With classic proportions, clean lines, and sophisticated design, Viscount’s presence is emphasised by generous upholstery and its elegant chrome steel outer frame. Available in over 20 fabric finishes with optional embroidery logo. £840 + VAT – rem.co.uk

Valera Swiss Metal Master As eye catching as it is functional, this chrome-plated premium steel hairdryer comes with six airflow/temperature settings and is ideal for the professional barbershop environment. £80 – Valera.com

St. James of London Cheeky B’Stard Range The storied brand are pushing the edges of contemporary style while keeping the classic tastes of traditional British hardware with this new range. While honouring the heritage of the past there’s a clear nod to the future with the stylish products. stjamesoflondon.com

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YS Park 508 Featuring a hand-carved wooden body which has a wave pattern making it easy to grip the brush wherever you like to like to hold it, this is a beautifully designed brush with nine-rows of pins. It’s ideal for medium to long hair. £47.80 – coolblades.co.uk

Jaguar A Line 500 Cutting Comb The Jaguar A Line 500 Cutting Comb contains natural substances in the material which release ions during combing. These help the hair to absorb moisture and give it a healthy shine. They are hand finished, so the rounded edges of the teeth are kind to the hair and scalp. 7.25in. £4.80 - www.salonsdirect.com

Kent Brushes The Monster Big beard? Untameable? Not anymore. Kent has taken their celebrated Beard Brush and scaled it up to take on any challenge. Gone is the narrow head found on its slighter sibling, replaced by a much larger beech wood oval design for beard grooming brilliance. £28 – kentbrushes.com

Barbury Rosewood Comb No.1 This 17-cm barber’s comb would make an attractive addition to any barber shop or salon. Crafted out of rosewood which is characterised by its hardness and resistance to humidity so it won’t let you down. £3.54 – coolblades.co.uk

Penhaligon’s Nickel Shaving Brush This ergonomic shaving brush is made from ethically sourced badger hair. Perfect for applying Penhaligon’s traditional shaving soaps and creams. Extremely high quality with very soft bristles, combined with Endymion shaving cream lathers in seconds, makes wet shaving a pleasure. £62 - penhaligons.com

Ellie Comb Designed by multi-award winning barber John Keegan of The Academy Barber in Ireland, the comb allows every barber to recreate his styling technique. Made of steel, it’s durable with a unique look. £18 – outillagehairdressing.com

combs & brushesENVY 28 | BarberNV Magazine


Hunt & Hustle We’ve always been impressed by the design of Hunt & Hustle scissors, and their stylish logo works just as well in t-shirt form. Screen printed by hand to ensure lasting quality, they are 100% combed organic cotton. £24.99 – huntandhustle.com

Layrite Trucker Hat Feeling a little lazy about putting up your pompadour? Hide your down-do with this adjustable back trucker hat featuring the Layrite Deluxe Pomade logos and a stealthy switchblade comb. Perfect for the laid back rockabilly dude and trucker alike. $15 – layrite.com

Schorem Old School T-Shirt The scumbag barbers of Rotterdam aren’t known for their traditional barbering for nothing, for them there’s no school but the old school! Show your allegiance to the barbering ways of old with this cool top.

Suavecito Hoodie The trendiest skeleton in the barbering industry can now adorn your back thanks to this slick hooded sweatshirt from Suavecito. From the OG collection, it’s 100% cotton.

€20.00 – schorembarbier.nl $30.99 – suavecito.com

The Barber Cartel OG Tee Combining fashionable urban wear with barbering motifs, The Barber Cartel’s clothing looks as at home on the street as in the shop. $25 – mkt.com/store/barbercartel

apparelENVY BarberNV Magazine | 29


The Clipper Guy meets The Barber Man

Ivan Zoot

The Clipper Guy dishes on raising prices, reducing imitation, and the business we are really in

I

met many legends at the Connecticut Barber Expo, but no one quite like Ivan Zoot, “The Clipper Guy,” high-energy owner of Zoot Hair and well-known consultant, educator and presenter. The first thing to know about Ivan: On two separate occasions, he held three Guinness World Records for 1) fastest haircut 2) most haircuts in one hour and 3) most haircuts in 24 hours non-stop, no breaks. He still holds the ‘most in an hour’ title! More on that later. Meeting him in person, I found Ivan to be so amped up I’m surprised he isn’t setting Guinness speed records every day. It’s typical that he wanted to offer a lesson for my YouTube viewers first thing. “I’m so happy to make the connection with you,” Ivan said to me. “My message for your viewers is this: trade shows and educational events. You need to get out of your four walls. You have to meet people, be willing to reach out your hand and say ‘hello.’” Barbering business is not about hair Ivan is all about connections. He boldly states that our business is about connections, not hair. He explains: “I got into cosmetology because I didn’t like my haircut. I had a young lady who cut my hair, and there was really nothing wrong with it, I just didn’t like it. One day, I’m thinking, ‘Why do I keep going back?’ The answer was because I liked her, I liked the

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price, I liked the location, I liked the music on the radio, I liked the owner. I liked the bottled goop I put in my hair. I liked everything except the haircut. The message: This is an interesting business because it is not about haircuts. This is about building and maintaining relationships with people. “I had spent most of my youth underneath a car with a wrench in my hand, so I figured scissors couldn’t be that different.” Ivan was soon off and running on his permanent career…building relationships. Gesturing to the Takara Belmont Barber chair in which he is seated, Ivan says, “It’s understood that 85% of your success behind this chair - barber or cos - depends on your interpersonal skills. Lots of people are really good at cutting hair, but not a lot of people are really good at people. And that presents an incredible opportunity.” Barbering then: “Two haircuts: short and shorter” For 25 years, Ivan built a reputation in the US and the UK as a rep for Andis clippers and trimmers, doing exhibitions, trade show outreach and shop consultations. He had a front row seat as men’s grooming evolved and then suddenly took off. “Thirty years ago I wasn’t even going to a barbershop,” he says. “I was going to a stylist. You didn’t want to go to a barber if you were

interested in something modern. Thirty years ago a barber in America was 75 years old and knew two haircuts: short and shorter.“ Ivan watched as chains supplanted these locally-owned shops, delivering straightforward cuts at low prices. For an entire generation of American men, the chain store “was the modern version of a barbershop,” he says. But sensibilities changed and the industry transformed. With 9,000 plus people jamming the Hartford Convention Center for the CT Barber Expo 2017, Ivan enjoys recalling its earliest days, when he and Andis were supportive of founder Jay Major as he “started the show in a little nightclub. “Now, if you go to any of the major shows in the United States… if you walked around the floor at the America’s Beauty Show in Chicago (for example), it was not a hair show. It was a guy hair show. Every vendor on the floor was interested in getting their piece of the guy haircut game.” Ivan witnesses the revolution Ivan welcomes what he calls “the revolution” in men’s grooming. “We have barbershops in urban neighbourhoods; we have modern, classic barber shops in downtown urban areas of major cities. We’ve got traditional neighbourhoods barbershops in the suburbs,”


he says. “That is a change in almost every way.” Ivan’s in the field repping Andis allowed him to witness change in the supplier end, too. “If you want to talk about how much the business has changed in 30 years, you don’t have a big enough memory card,” he laughs. “Twenty-five years ago, Andis probably sold 12 clippers, and they were all black. We used to joke that we were the Henry Ford of clipper companies; you can have any colour clipper you want, as long as it’s black.” Today the list of clippers is lengthy, imaginative and versatile. Barbers: raise your prices! Today Ivan is much more interested in the future than the past. He strongly advocates for barbers to charge more, launching a national movement in the U.S. called ‘Raise Your Haircut Prices Day’ each July first. “I passionately believe we need to start charging more,” he said. “There are formulas, and ways to go about doing that (setting prices), and I just get excited helping people.

I think I took that away from a Brit. I also broke the record for the most haircuts in one hour and in 2000, I was the first person to officially set a Guinness world record for the most haircuts, 24 hours, nonstop, no break.“ When the records were broken, Ivan made a point of setting new ones in 2008 “exactly ten years after my first.” Now, he says, “I’ve proven what I can do. Records are made to be broken.” Though Ivan still holds the record for most cuts in an hour (34), Guinness says the other records fell in 2011: the most cuts in 24 hours is held by Nabi Salehi of A&N Style Hair Studio in London, and Roberto A. Gangale at Carlo’s Barbershop, in Broadview Heights, Ohio, USA holds the fastest haircut mark. For all his social media and online success, Ivan is leery of its impact on the industry. “I encourage people to get an Instagram, get a YouTube channel, put your content out

“I can help you do a better fade or a better haircut,” he continues, “but I just got done telling you that it’s not about the haircuts. I can help people promote their shop, but if you are good, your business is going to build. Most importantly, if I help you raise your prices and change your future, I change your life.” Ivan is still closely associated with Andis, a family-owned company. But Zoot Hair has opened new opportunities for his energy, passion, and imagination, creating a oneperson industry category all his own: the go-to guy for just about everything. “I provide consulting services, specifically on men’s grooming, men’s haircutting,” he told me. “I provide educational services to salons, chains, and individuals. I do personal oneon-one training, helping people get better at technical haircutting. But I also do a lot of coaching with sales and marketing, helping people grow their business. “If you want to buy something, I can put a stamp on it and send it in the mail,” he adds. “I’ve got a lot of hair care products, liquid

products. Clipper Guy Wax is probably my number one because I’m known for cutting flat tops. “Everybody knows me for my hair grippers; they’re section clips,” he says. “These are items specific to the way I work. If you came to me with a perm product, that’s not my world. But if we are going to talk about a clipper and a flat top and a buzz and a taper and a fade – that’s my game.” The famously supercharged Clipper Guy has also written eight digital books and about a dozen audio programs. “You drive, I talk. You listen, and you change your life,” he says. “I’ve got my videos, the YouTube channel, and for those that want one more in-depth education I have a whole series of videos, not the same content (as YouTube), of course.” World records and staying true to your creativity So, Ivan, about those world records… “In 1998, I broke the record for the fastest haircut. My apologies to my friends in the UK -

there. If you are great, the world will find you. If you kind of suck, don’t worry about it. No one will see it. “My challenge to you is, what are you bringing that we haven’t seen before? Oh, you can cut a fade, or you can do a squiggly tribal graphic? So can everybody else! If you don’t have something new to say, sit down and shut up. “We see too much mimicry. Somebody throws something up on social media, Barbershop Connect or somebody shares it and the next week, everybody does that haircut. Come on guys! You are creative! Don’t be copycats. Bring the original. That’s what I want to see.” One thing we want to see is more of Ivan’s refreshing, energetic take on the industry. Be sure to check the whole interview on my YouTube channel, Barbers.TV, or my LarrytheBarberMan Instagram profile.

An Interview With Larry The Barber Man

If we are going to talk about a clipper and a flat top and a buzz and a taper and a fade – that’s my game.

BarberNV BarberNV Magazine Magazine| 31 | 31


Cutting on Civvy Street E

veryone understands the sacrifices that our armed forces make for us, and realise the difficulty that many of them can have adapting back into normal life once they leave the service. However, few people go out of their way to help them. Now, ex-serviceman Liam Hamilton, from Hamilton’s Elite Barber Shop in Redruth, Cornwall, has teamed up with premium men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge to form the Armour to Barber organisation. “At Armour to Barber, our mission is to enable ex-service personnel to reinvent themselves in an exciting and ever-changing industry,” says Hamilton, who became a barber at 19. “No matter how many years of service our prospects have given, we are here to help them transition smoothly into the barbering industry with all the support they need.” As a youngster with a little barbering experience, the Cornishman served in the Coldstream Guards – an infantry unit famous for being the oldest serving regiment in the British Army. After 21-years of service, he returned to the barbershop to hone his skills, become fully

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qualified, and build a name for himself in the barbering community. Now, at 45, the Master Barber is looking to make the journey into barbering as straight forward as possible for ex-service personnel. From helping prospects to gain vital work experience in approved barber shops all over the UK, to providing detailed information on the charities that can offer essential funding, Armour to Barber has made it their duty to guide every barber-to-be through their unique journey. David Hildrew, Managing Director of The Bluebeards Revenge, was only too happy to commit his brand to the cause. The former Royal Marine said: “When service men and women leave the forces, they can often find it difficult to fit back into civilian life. Armour to Barber offers these people a fantastic chance to retrain in a lucrative industry with plenty of opportunities. These highlyskilled individuals will make fantastic barbers too thanks to the conditions they have previously worked within.” For more information on Armour to Barber, please visit www.armourtobarber.uk.

Liam Hamilton - Armour Barber


Chapman joins the Barbersclan

Following a successful appearance in Brazil’s barbering magazine BarberQG which raised his profile in the country, Lions Barber Collective founder Tom Chapman boarded a plane to South America to deliver education courses to local barbers. The trip was organised with Sindi Devitte, who has previously helped the Lions, founder of the Barbersclan movement which aims to bring Brazilian barbers together and improve their training level. Flying into Sao Paulo to meet her, Tom was taken a tour of the city’s barbershops on his first day and was impressed by their unique styles and got to see places that most tourists would never get the chance to visit. Settling in didn’t last long however and on the second day it was straight into the action. 125 barbers were involved as the tour got into full swing, with Tom demonstrating all day. The Brazilian barbers’ appetite for knowledge was intense, with Tom saying they were “some of the best students I’ve ever taught. Very attentive, very respectful.” They were equally as impressed by Tom, swamping him at the end for selfies and autographs! After leaving Sao Paulo, they headed into the heart of the rainforest where the Barbersclan Academy is situated. A workshop with 14 barbers followed, some flying in from Uruguay and other countries around South America for the privilege of learning from Tom and Sindi. Tom realised just how passionate the barbers were when, despite the classes finishing at 5pm, they ended up cutting hair until almost midnight. Despite the presence of beers and traditional Brazilian BBQ in the garden, the

students were keen to continue learning. “If the attitude I witnessed is the general attitude of barbers in Brazil then we’re set to see a lot of top talent,” Tom said. Teaching the better part of 200 barbers isn’t easy at the best of times, but for Tom, who doesn’t speak a word of Portuguese, it was particularly challenging. “When you are educating you are normally talking through the haircut step-by-step, but I had to remember to say it in simpler steps as I went along so they could translate for me,” he told us. A more chilled out final day saw Tom return to Sao Paulo and spend some time with the team behind family-owned brand Keune who have branched out into men’s hair. The whole trip was an enormous success and paves the way for future events, including a possible return for Tom early next year. The infrastructure set up by Sindi allows for barbers to stay at the academy, saving them money on pricey accommodation and focusing on the education – an effort truly deserving of praise and Tom was full of it for her. “Sindi has very strong opinions about which barbering should go for the better and she has a huge passion for education. The growth she has seen over her career, she’s taken that to Brazil to create opportunities for the guys over there and it’s very kind and generous of her. She’s not doing it to make money, she’s trying to change the industry because there isn’t a strong education in Brazil.” You can read our exclusive interview with Sindi over the page.

Culture shock You don’t get much further away from the seaside town of Devon than the bustling metropolis of Sao Paulo. One has 65,000 people, one has 20 million. One holds Tom Chapman Hair Design’s Salon Sessions, one held the 2014 World Cup. Okay, those events are both as popular as one another so that isn’t a good example. Tom himself got to witness it first hand and saw a city where millionaires live yards from favelas, but the overriding memory was of a culture of giving and sharing. “The people were so nice and we were given so many gifts. They would give us fade brushes, combs, all sorts, and say ‘when you get back to England, please use this and think of us in Brazil.’ “They are all so happy to share. For example, we went to a BBQ restaurant and had beers – they’d bring out a big bottle of beer and everyone would share it! You don’t have your own plate of food, you just share with everyone. It’s nice to see that attitude towards life, to see everyone so unmaterialistic.”

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Sindi Devitte When big names in the industry speak, we listen. So when we started to hear from several sources, including Lions Barber Collective founder Tom Chapman and Fit for Vikings founder Hjörtur Scheving, about this incredibly talented barber Sindi Devitte, we paid attention. Over the past 20 years Sindi has taken on more than most barbers could handle, juggling a young family, a new career, and a new country with a difficult language all while putting together a barber school back in her homeland Brazil and running her successful barbershop in the UK. Sindi’s achievements are impressive and the obstacles she’s had to overcome have undoubtedly helped her become such an inspiring figure. Incoming Arriving in the UK with little English and having decided to abandon her previous career and take up barbering in order to spend more time with her children, it wasn’t going to be the easiest of starts for Sindi – particularly since the only course she had done focused mainly on hairdressing. However, her first job was in a traditional English barbershop and she says “from there it was just barbering.” Sindi’s early days in the industry were unsettled, moving from shop to shop, but rather than bemoan her bad fortune, Sindi believes it helped her career. She says: “Because my English was not very good it was quite hard. The English barbers were hard to get into in the beginning so I did Afro, Turkish, Indian, and lots of Iranian barbers around Coventry. Working in such different places was

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great as it gave me practice with fades.” Very helpful with the fade frenzy that has enveloped the UK over the past few years. Barbersclan, Coventry Eventually Sindi settled down into a barbershop she truly loved working at, calling it “the best barbershop in Coventry”, and staying there for six years until opening her own shop, Barbersclan, in the city. However, while for many up-and-coming barbers the thought of having your very own barbershop is the dream, Sindi has some advice. “I think that people should see that you don’t really need to have your own shop. To be honest I was more happy when I was working with other people and you don’t have the responsibility of running your own business. “When you buy your shop you have all that excitement but it’s a lot to do: bills to pay, you have to think about other people working for you, it’s a completely different environment.” It was circumstances out of her control that led to Sindi opening Barbersclan, when her previous boss lost the lease on his shop. Having spent so long working together, Sindi took on her former boss to work with her at her new shop for a while. As she says, “the people that you work with are like a family.” Although Sindi still doesn’t love the


business aspect of running her own shop, she has since opened her own academy next door to the shop which is her true barbering passion, with people travelling from across Europe to come and learn from her. Barbersclan, Brazil Sindi’s educational services aren’t limited to the UK. Back in her homeland of Brazil, Sindi has set up another Barbersclan academy in a bid to reach out to a deprived barbering community in desperate need of further guidance and improved training. Sindi explains that “in Brazil they don’t have academies like they have here in the UK. In Brazil, barbering was a dying trade but now for a few years they’ve had a boom, everyone’s decided to be a barber because crisis pushes people to do other professions. But they didn’t have the basics. “Here if you get lost on something you go back to basics and carry on, but how can you go back to basics if you don’t have any basics? So I’m trying to go over there and give them a strong education so they can carry on getting a better standard.” Sindi isn’t doing it alone, calling upon the likes of Tom Chapman to head back to Brazil with her and help educate over 200 barbers in a three-day spell. You can read more about their journey over the page. After the success of Tom’s trip, Sindi has

lined up Farzad Salehi, renowned as one of the top shavers in the industry to go to Barbersclan, Brazil in September to teach the art of shaving. Showing her commitment to charity, Sindi is even giving barbers who can’t afford to pay the chance to attend and help out as best she can. With three children depending on her while they attend university here in the UK, Sindi won’t be making the move back to Brazil permanently anytime soon but her link to her homeland is undeniable and it’s clear she wants to help as much as possible. Future Sindi’s link with Tom extends not only to education in Brazil but to helping out with the Lions Barbers Collective, recently helping run the stand at Barber Connect and she is fiercely proud of Tom and the work he has achieved. It’s all in a day’s work for this Brazilian barber who must be one of the busiest people in the industry and she is keen to stress the importance for all barbers that always try to improve not only as barbers, but as people, leaving us with some sage wisdom. “Never give up and never let your ego grow too big,” she says wisely. “Never stop studying, never stop attending courses and getting education. If you think you are the master barber of the world, go do some other course. You can never stop learning.”

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New Shops

jack the clipper Jack the Clippers has an enviable mythology based around the infamous Jack the Ripper story, and in terms of getting a Turkish shave or haircut in London there’s few better. When creating a flagship store in Bow Lane for the brand, the designers had to call on both the mythology and the brand’s personal history to bring it to life. Ensuring the concept felt luxurious and original whilst invoking the Jack the Clipper story in a contemporary and authentic way, the design team used several exciting visual clues including brass piping details utilised throughout the space, including across windows, walls, and the ceiling to reference the industrial design of the Victorian era. A playfully abstract nod to the macabre is displayed with the use of herringbone red and white tiles for the kitchen areas. Throughout the space, eclectic lighting seemingly emerges straight from the antique brass piping. Bespoke distressed mirrors were

handmade in India, both aged and cracked, so as to create a unique twist on the traditional barbershop setup. Walls are decorated with traditional barbering tools, but arranged in sequence or sprayed in dark tones to create conceptual art pieces. Having partnered with world renowned British brand Penhaligons, echoing a century old tradition of Anglo-Turkish collaboration, custom made lightboxes and cabinetry celebrate the iconic relationship and display product ranges. Communicating the playfully ominous tone further, the venue is dressed with exclusively commissioned artwork, portraits, murals, and selected prop elements, while a dedicated area entitled ‘Jack’s Hall of Fame’ adds an extra layer of theatre to the customer experience. Clients visiting Jack the Clipper are also invited down to the basement bar where they are offered the finest selection of drinks.

47 Bow L n, London EC4M 9DL

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the ba r bership All aboard The Barbership! We’re sailing back to a simpler time, when barbershops were places for men to relax and enjoy a nostress, no-frills environment – just getting a fantastic haircut while chewing the fat. That’s the dream of Jamie Martin who has opened up a truly stripped back shop, so much so that it even has no electricity. An old school barbershop that still offers modern cuts and innovative progressive techniques, Jamie and his team have had to step firmly outside the box to create The Barbership. With no electric lighting, they rely on a fantastic skylight to flood the space with light, while solar panels are used to help recharge cordless clippers, and a filtration system will be used to harvest rainwater that can be heated up on a woodburner. It’s truly a battle of innovation over the elements but it’s testament to Jamie’s commitment to truly traditional barbering that they’re even using the classic hand

shears. Being off the grid can come at an expense as although they don’t need to pay for plumbing or an elective bill, all the above isn’t cheap. For now The Barbership is open just a few days a week while they feel out the local community and spread the word, but it’s already filling up nicely and more staff from Jamie’s other Barbership in Southsea should be heading over in the near future. Aesthetically, it’s easy to imagine you’re below deck in an Aubrey-Maturin novel like Master and Commander with the sacks and barrels surrounding you, but the way the paved outside flows into the cobbled inside and onto the concrete cutting area gives it a natural and truly unique feel. There’s no appointments, as Jamie believes it’s important that in modern society men can have a place to go and hang out, not just get them in and out as quick as he can – we like the sound of that.

Blue Ca n non Alley, Gospor t


New Shops

mr . blonde Located in Glasgow’s bustling Merchant City, Mr. Blonde is the work of two Rebel Rebel alumni – Grant Carr and Mark “Raffa” Rafferty – and, as you would expect, it is top notch. Despite the premium location, it is a large, airy space which seems even bigger thanks to the stripped back and minimalistic look. But that’s not to say that Mr. Blonde is lacking in features; this is still a high-end barbershop. The fully stocked bar wouldn’t look out of place in a trendy watering hole and with staff from the nearby Bar Soba coming in one Saturday a month to serve cocktails to Mr. Blonde customers, you won’t want to miss your regular trim. The name itself hints not at the psychopath from Reservoir Dogs but at the team’s colour expertise, with all of them fully competent in not just classic barbering but what has been thought of as traditionally hairdressing techniques. As they say, they are ‘advocates of modern barbering’ and that means everything from subtly using colour to add texture to hair, playing with tones and balayage, to combining braids, an undercut, and some needle and thread to create the

ultimate man bun, all alongside everything you’d expect from an old school barbershop. For colour the brand of choice at Mr. Blonde is Kevin Murphy, with Grant calling it the best he’s ever used, while for general use it’s the Australian brand Evo that got the nod. Both come with a high reputation befitting an upscale shop like Mr. Blonde. Having been open barely a month it’s safe to say that Mr. Blonde has been an unqualified success already, with the team having to turn down almost 50 walk-ins in a single week and a new barber set to join to take the team size up to four plus a trainee. They’ll be kept plenty busy as the prime location in Glasgow cultural quarter always has something going on around it – whether it’s the bustling music venues or regular markets and festivals, there’s already a steady stream of passers-by to supplement Mr. Blonde’s extensive clientele. Assuming the success continues, the staff’s background in both barbering and hairdressing means we could yet see a Mr. Blonde salon open up if they decide to branch out. Keep your eye out.

20 Wil son St., G1 1SS

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DANIEL RYM ER


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Daniel Rymer Hair: Daniel Rymer, Francesca King, Drue Mock Photography: Lel Burnett Make-up: Danny Williams Products: Aveda BarberNV Magazine | 41


The Wizards of Oz They say opposites attract – maybe that’s why the UK and Australia have always had a great relationship. We have rain, they have sun. We play football with our feet, they play football with their hands. We have our Christmas round a cosy fire, they have it on the beach. However, for all that sets us apart we do have plenty in common. A shared language and a shared love of the Kennedys from Neighbours to start with. But also some top quality barbers. Oh yes, there’s some barbering wizards down in Oz. A new breed of Australian barber is taking the scene by storm in much the same way that the barbering boom has taken hold in the UK. Brands like Uppercut Deluxe are renowned around the world, having started from humble roots down under and Australian barbers are sharing knowledge with British and American barbers via Instagram, keeping standards high all over the globe. You’ll be to see the work of all the finalists from the Hair Expo Men’s Hairdressing/ Barbering competition, plus an exclusive interview with the winner. So enjoy the next few pages as we speak with all sorts of barbers from Australia including a Brit who has forged a successful career in the southern hemisphere and one who has just started her journey, as we examine the Australian scene in depth.

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Uros Mikic Men’s H a i rd res s er / Barb er o f th e Yea r Heading creative direction at an award-winning salon with over half a lifetime of experience, Uros Mikic is no stranger to the world of barbering. Having achieved many awards in his years as a barber, he’s brilliantly used his skill to achieve success, with years of travelling, education and growth accompanying it.

Finding his feet Uros’s passion for barbering surfaced at age 14 while practicing his cutting skills on his friends at rugby after he first started hairdressing school. He said; “Men’s cutting and I go way back and I think it’s because it was my first feel for hairdressing that it holds a special place for me.”

Uros Mikic

Nearly two decades later and Uros has gone global, working in countries ranging from Australia to Italy and everywhere in between. You might think that such distinct countries would have different barbering industries, but Uros hasn’t found that. “Hairdressing is hairdressing, the skills are the same anywhere you go. The culture and language are different, but the skills stay the same,” he says. Although cultural differences may seem daunting, Uros believes that with commitment and hard work, anyone can adapt. Not only has Uros worked internationally, he also admires many different barbers around the world: from his European favourites to traditional barbers from the US. However he prefers to find his creativity internally, stating; “I don’t have anyone that specifically inspires me, I guess that’s why I push myself and create new trends, stuff that other people get inspired by, stuff that pushes me creatively.” Kinky Curly Straight Currently, Uros works as creative director at the award-winning Kinky Curly Straight

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salon in Adelaide, Australia. With team members winning awards of their own, it’s clear that talent is plentiful in this salon. The team support and encourage each other throughout events, showing a tightknit sense of community. Impressed by the growth of men seeking hairdressing over traditional old school methods, Uros says; “Our salon has a massive men’s clientele that flows and works really well with our ladies work. It creates a fabulous environment in the salon, guys and ladies enjoying high end hairdressing and customer service.” Barbering itself is undergoing a global surge in popularity at the moment, but will it continue? Uros thinks so, and that it’s not limited to men’s salons either, flowing into traditional salons too. Once again, it stems from men taking pride in their looks and visiting salons rather than shaving their hair themselves. Uros states: “It’s a great trend, and the more we educate and grow our skills, we’ll see more appreciation for the profession and bigger, more loyal clientele.” Uros has also been trying to experiment with new styles, moving away from sharp tapered looks and fades. Recently, he’s been playing around with long hair and texture, a playful, cool look that inspired his ideas for his newest collection, Chapter (which you can see over the page). And what better way to keep that style intact than ensuring clients have the products


and tips required to maintain it at home? Uros believes this is key in improving customer satisfaction. He says: “It’s a part of building long-term trust and relationship with your clients and what better way to grow your clientele that making them look amazing day in day out, not just when they leave the salon. Happy clients who trust you and your recommendations are the best advertising you as a stylist and salon can get.” Winning Another factor that draws people to Kinky Curly Straight is the hefty amount of awards it has achieved. In the past two years, Uros has won multiple awards on national and international level, including last month’s Hair Expo Men’s Hairdresser/ Barber of the Year. To be given such high international recognition is an incredible feat, and Uros says: “As an artist there’s no higher recognition and praise you can get than your peers being inspired by your work.” Uros isn’t stopping there though, saying: “I love entering competitions as they push me to create new looks, new styles and having won a couple makes it even more challenging as I know people’s expectations are higher.” Aside from that, the other big plan is expanding the salon, to celebrate five years of Kinky Curly Straight in September. Having outgrown their premises, they’ve

got new ideas for a spectacular place that has the whole team excited for the big move in coming months With these changes and future plans in mind, it’s clear to see that Uros is determined to further his and his salon’s reputation in more competitions to come and upgrading Kinky Curly Straight to make it bigger, and better. Planning on improving his skills and trying new things, branching out and experimenting, the future seems bright and adventurous for both Uros and the Kinky Curly Straight salon.


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Uros Mikic

Hair Expo Men’s Hairdresser/Barber Winner

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behind the brand Looking good is built into the history of Uppercut Deluxe. One of Australia’s most successful barbering exports, it’s not surprising that Uppercut Deluxe is a brand beloved by barbers the length and breadth of Britain who understand the importance of their job.

Heritage meets contemporary Barbering has always been an art packed with tradition, its more than just a career choice, it’s a culture. Uppercut Deluxe has always understood that, taking inspiration from the timeless style of the classic 1950s barbershop and its spiritual founder Willy ‘Uppercut’ O’Shea, a depression-era boxer with a penchant for looking good. Bringing these values into the 21st century has meant updating them without sacrificing on quality, something Uppercut Deluxe has always succeeded with. From their flagship Deluxe Pomade to their latest product Easy Hold, barbers have stood by the range as one they could rely on to get the results they wanted and that their customers would love. Foundation Creating a beloved range is no easy feat and required the passion and perseverance of two friends, Luke Newman and Steve Purcell. Having bonded growing up over a shared love of surfing, skating, and punk rock culture, Luke and Steve found separate paths into the barbering industry. Luke travelled to the United States to build skate parks in Portland where he happened upon a traditional barbershop, sparking his

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interest in the craft. While Steve was determined to avoid his senior years of high school and found a barbering apprenticeship, quickly finding he was suited to it. While they both loved cutting hair, they didn’t love the salon-esque barbering environment, and believed the industry was crying out for a barbershop that reflected a more masculine attitude. They created a barbershop adorned with a motley assortment of all their interests, be it skateboards, punk rock posters, and 1950s nostalgia – a home for men. Pushing Forward While they now had their home, they didn’t have a product range they could trust. After spending time with mediocre substitutes that simply didn’t perform in the traditional style of cuts being demanded in their shop, a long process of experimentation began. It wasn’t easy, and required every ounce of Luke and Steve’s willpower and drive to succeed, but after 120 variations Deluxe Pomade was born. The crown jewel in the Uppercut Deluxe line-up, it didn’t take long for it to become a must-have in barbershops around the world. But that was just the beginning. A decade on and the Uppercut


Barber Ambassadors Dane Hesse – Eagle and Pig Barbershop USA @pigbarber Tommy J – Hair By Tommy J, AUS @hairbytommyj Luke Dolan – Luke’s Barbershops, UK @lukes_barbershop Shane Nesbitt – Shane’s Barbershop, USA @shane_nesbitt Chris Brownless – Northwest Barber Co, UK @northwestbarberco

Deluxe product range continues to grow and continues to be cherished. Barbers eagerly await the latest release, whether it be the Barbers Collection range of professional products or Easy Hold that has once more increased the ability of barbers to attend to their clients’ needs. Culture Uppercut Deluxe has never strayed far from its roots. Deeply embedded in the cultures that brought Luke and Steve together, including surfing, skating, and motorbikes, they’ve never pushed for acceptance, instead organically fostering these link through a posse of lifestyle

ambassadors who all embody the notion of timeless style. Combined with their policy of always putting barbers first, it’s no surprise Uppercut Deluxe have held on to their credentials as a local brand with global ambition. They are represented around the world by a team of 10 top barbers, including Luke Dolan, Chris Brownless, and George Coady in the UK, emissaries of the word of Uppercut Deluxe From Australia to America, Britain to Berlin, Uppercut Deluxe are showing the heights that can be scaled by being true to yourself and never compromising on quality.

James Reichwein – Cut Throat Amsterdam, NL @james_reichwein George Coady – Folsom Barber Club, UK @cutthroat_george Ron Talley – Electric Barbershops, USA @ron_talley Mike Cashen – Pugsly’s Barbershop, USA @pugsly_dude Pat Capocci – Flying Tiger Barbershop, AUS @flyingtigerbarbershop

Willy ‘Uppercut’ O’Shea The brand’s name stems from Newman’s Grandfather Willy O’Shea. An old bare-knuckle boxer from the Jimmy Sharman’s boxing troupe that toured rural Australia during the great depression. A tough man born in tough times; Willy never had much money but would always ensure he looked his best. Always travelling with a freshly pressed shirt and a home-made tub of pomade. It was only fitting that his nickname ‘Uppercut’ was incorporated into the brand. Willy’s motto was “A hard beginning maketh a good ending”. He’d be proud of how his grandson Luke and friend Steve have persevered to create an enduring brand.

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Easy Hold takes control

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ppercut Deluxe’s Ambassadors aren’t just for show. As well as personifying the brand’s ethos and passion, they are experts called upon to assist Uppercut Deluxe in product development ensuring they keep the needs of barbers at the forefront. By barbers, for barbers has always been the key principle of Uppercut Deluxe, so when they set about designing the sixth product in their styling range, Easy Hold, there was no question about who they called upon. Uppercut Deluxe Global Product Manager, Nathalie Cael, explained that Easy Hold was “developed for over two years in close collaboration with the global network of Uppercut Deluxe Barber Ambassadors, the result is an extremely versatile product that offers huge styling potential in a wide range of hair types and lengths.” As a low hold solution for the styling needs of the discerning

gent Easy Hold certainly achieves that, giving texture, volume, and control with little visible sign of product. It’s a reaction to the shift in global trends towards lighter, more textured finishes – with Uppercut Deluxe once more ahead of the game thanks to their worldwide ambassadors. One such Barber Ambassador, Dane Hesse of Eagle & Pig Barbershop in Costa Mesa, California, believes its versatility is key, saying “I’ve been able to use Easy Hold on several different types of hair: textured, curly, straight, it really is one of those products you can use in just about any type of hair. It’s great for my clients – when they style their hair it looks natural and hardly like they’ve used any product at all.” An exceptional addition to the core Uppercut Deluxe range, now’s the time to add Easy Hold to your barbershop repertoire and up your styling game.

To find out more contact your Uppercut Deluxe representative: South East: Luke Morley luke@uppercutdeluxe.com +44 (0) 7585 879 342

South West & Ireland: Dave Bruce   dave@uppercutdeluxe.com +44 (0) 7795 565 700

Europe - Liz Keating                                liz@uppercutdeluxe.com +44 (0) 7827 013 438

UK Midlands, UK North & Scotland                           customerserviceuk@uppercutdeluxe.com +44 (0) 2380 865 906

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Why Easy Hold? • Water-based, making it easy to wash out • Light hold with grip, ensuring styles are long lasting • Natural woody tobacco scent • Creates volume and texture • Natural, weightless and matt finish with no shine. • Suitable for all hair types and lengths, and found to be particularly effective in thinner hair types • Smooth creamy texture allows for easy application • A user-friendly product for the experienced user or the new groomer • Applicable to wet or dry hair and can be styled with either comb or fingers


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Livin’ that Uppercut deluxe life with Lifestyle Ambassador TJ Guzzardi

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ppercut Deluxe cemented their position not only in the hands of barbers and on the heads of their customers, but also in all of their hearts by keeping keenly involved in the interests that helped forge the company. A group of talented individuals that embody these skills and passions help spread the word of Uppercut Deluxe throughout Australia and beyond. TJ Guzzardi is one of them.

Collection and the campaign they created featured four different videos, each revolving around old world trades. One of which featured me signwriting.

A master craftsman, TJ is responsible for stunningly beautiful hand-painted Uppercut Deluxe signage you can see adorning barbershops, his artwork perfectly complementing the classic style of the brand.

“Last year they approached me to be an ambassador and since then they’ve kept me busy painting bespoke point of sale items for select stores and their barber ambassadors. I’ve also worked on campaign videos and hung out at social functions, all fun stuff!”

His vocation is a specialised one, forged from days spent at his dad’s Hot Rod shop in West Melbourne where he taught himself how to pinstripe cars. “I think it was a natural progression as an artist to try new things and I have always been inspired by original hand-painted signwriting,” TJ explains to us. TJ didn’t just require talent to make a career out of signwriting, having to take a leap of faith and leave his day job which supported his young family to try and make a living out of his passion full-time. It paid off and he’s since built a lasting relationship with Uppercut Deluxe that led to him being appointed as a Lifestyle Ambassador. He tells us: “I’d been working with the guys at Uppercut Deluxe for years before becoming an official lifestyle Ambassador, doing a few signs here and there for them. In 2016 they launched the Mini Tin Styling

“I guess that kind of highlighted how complimentary the brand and my artwork were, and showcased our mutual appreciation for timeless style which paved the way for a more official working relationship.

Having a client like Uppercut Deluxe is certainly an asset for TJ but part of the fun of working for yourself is “the freedom to be creative and do what I love. I get to spend lots of time with my family.” For client briefs, TJ says that “90% of the time I can do exactly what I want, the other 10% is a client that comes to me with a design ready to go.” TJ is living the dream, cruising around Melbourne in his 1956 Chevy wagon which complements both his personal and professional style perfectly, spending time with his family, and spreading the word of Uppercut Deluxe. Can we expect to see more collaborations in the future? “Nothing that’s been officially locked in at the moment, but, like me, the crew at Uppercut Deluxe are always keeping busy and we spitball ideas at one another all the time, so stay tuned.”

I think it was a natural progression as an artist to try new things and I have always been inspired by original handpainted signwriting

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Melissa McAuley Hair Expo Men’s Hairdresser/Barber Finalist

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Jules Tognini Hair Expo Men’s Hairdresser/Barber Finalist

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CHOOSE LIFE. CHOOSE CUTTING HAIR IN THE SUNSHINE. CHOOSE SNORKELLING ON THE GREAT BARRIER REEF ON YOUR DAYS OFF. CHOOSE KANGAROOS, KOALAS, AND WOMBATS. CHOOSE STANDING AT THE OPERA HOUSE WITH SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE IN THE BACKGROUND FEELING LIKE A FUCKING BOSS. CHOOSE ABORIGINAL CULTURE AND GETTING OUT OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE. CHOOSE 25 DEGREE DAYS IN WINTER. CHOOSE HAVING CHRISTMAS BARBECUES ON BONDI BEACH. CHOOSE WALKING AWAY FROM YOUR MIND-NUMBING, SPIRIT CRUSHING JOB CUTTING SMELLY CHILDREN’S UNWASHED HAIR WHILE THEIR JOBLESS PARENTS CRITICISE YOUR FADING, GOING HOME IN THE DARKNESS TO ANOTHER MICROWAVED DINNER AND WAITING TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN TOMORROW. CHOOSE YOUR FUTURE.

CHOOSE AUSTRALIA.

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aussie rules.

Nicole Coia was living many barbers’ dream. A successful shop, clients queuing out of the door, and a reputation as one of the best in the business. But with great success comes great responsibility and Nicole soon tired of the rat race, yearning to leave her own barbershop Homeboys behind and take the next step in her barbering career. “Homeboys nearly killed me,” she laughs. “This is an amazing complaint but it was just far too busy, cutting hair one after the other from the minute I opened until way past closing time. After five years I just had to take a break.” While Nicole makes light of it as a good complaint to have, working such long hours in a physically demanding job takes a toll on your body and your mind. But taking the leap and deciding to move to Australia must have required a heavy dose of confidence. Nicole says: “I had to look after my health; I was so drained I worked myself into the ground. It wasn’t about confidence, it was about making the right decision for my future. I was so busy looking after everyone else I forgot to look after myself, so I decided it was time to choose life!” Working right up until two days before leaving Glasgow, Nicole had to act quickly to secure her spot in Australia due to visa restrictions. “You can only do a holiday working visa from 18-30 and I turned 31 on the 30th of May this year so I had to make a fast decision – I just took the jump. I arrived in Melbourne on the 29th so had one day to activate the visa. I cut it

fine, literally!” Travelling to the other side of the globe is a big commitment but Nicole says she “came to Australia with no plan other than to focus on myself and let everything else fall into place.” And she’s wasting no time in enjoying herself. “I’ve been in Australia for six weeks now. I’ve been to Melbourne, Brisbane, the Gold Coast, Cairns, and Sydney. I’m living the dream. It’s took only a short time but I’ve found a better me.” After taking time off barbering to travel around her new home, Nicole has picked up the scissors again and is hoping to work with some of the many Australian barbers that inspire her. However, following her time at Homeboys, she is in no rush to get back to the drudgery of the daily grind. She says: “Australia’s work/life balance is what I love and it’s definitely something everyone should think about. Yes we all want to make money and be the best we can be, but what’s all that if we’re just working. I love my job as much as any barber but it’s so important we look after ourselves.” So should British barbers be heading down under? Nicole believes so. “If you have the opportunity to give Australia a bash, do it. There is no language barrier and the weather speaks for itself. Be the best you can be, but always choose life. Australia has both to offer.” So if you’re in Perth, Scotland, maybe it’s time to think about heading to Perth, Australia. Same name but a world apart in both distance and lifestyle.


working with

PA S C H A A L D E R L E Y E D G E “What a pleasure it was working with the team at Pascha Gentlemen’s Grooming. Together we created a stunning environment for both the modern Barber and his clients alike. Traditional furniture set against a backdrop of oak, mirror and natural light gives Pascha its distinctive, signature look.” – The REM Design Team

sales@rem.co.uk

www.rem.co.uk

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Joe Ribera Hair Expo Men’s Hairdresser/Barber Finalist BarberNV Magazine | 61


Asuka Aoki

Hair Expo Men’s Hairdresser/Barber Finalist

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brit abroad: Jordon McKenny M

elbourne has become home to Jordon McKenny, the Hertfordshire born barber whose award-winning Area Studios barbershop has made a big impression in little over a year. First Step But why leave the comfort and familiarity of home and head to Australia, thousands of miles from everyone you know and everything you’re used to. Well, the weather probably helps, but for Jordon it was a decision long in the planning. “I always saw myself living abroad,” he tells us. “Maybe because my father would joke about moving to America from time to time. Although that never happened, my cousin had been travelling in Canada and was moving to Australia with his girlfriend he’d met whilst being there. He told me I could come stay with him and that the visa situation was relatively simple to begin with. “At this time I was 19-years old, I had just

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begun to rent a chair after finishing my college course and apprenticeship. My day-to-day life was becoming repetitive.” At the time Jordon was working in local shop Made Man, which specialised in Afro Caribbean hair and gave him the chance to sharpen up his fading and line-up skills, as well as scissor work. Fortunately his boss, a man who he considered his mentor, was open to the idea of Jordon moving down under, and their good relationship was key to that. Jordon says: “In my mind this wasn’t a major decision to make; if worst came to worst I could fly home and come back to my position at the job I was about to leave as my boss didn’t see this as quitting or leaving to find another job in a local area.” In the Right Area Taking the leap, Jordon moved to Australia and fortunately no return ticket was required. After working his way around a few different shops, picking up knowledge and valuable


experience, he has now settled in Melbourne and opened his own barbershop Area Studios. In just a short time, it has already made its mark not only on the Melbourne barbering scene, but the Australian one as a whole – much to Jordon’s delight. “We have just celebrated one year in business and I feel that personally and as a team we have achieved a lot. We recently took HBIA (Hair and Beauty Industry Association) Small Salon of the Year award 2017 – being the first male salon to win. One of our stylists, Danny Cox, won senior stylist of the year along with the team winning first and second place in all three categories we entered.” Impressive stuff from the Area team. But just what is the key to their success? Jordon says: “Firstly, I believe it’s the team we have and the unique skillset that each member brings. I truly believe that we have one of the most talented and versatile teams in Australia. Our clientele is so diverse; we have men and women from all backgrounds come into the shop and we strive to be able to cater for any individual and their unique requests. “Secondly, it’s the amount of time that we allocate for our services. We spend more time than other shops on each client so as to provide them with a service that doesn’t feel rushed, which in turn allows us to give a thorough consultation, exceptional haircut, and a relaxing wash and hot towel service. We wash the clients hair at the end of the service once we have completely finished the haircut so we can remove any hair debris and the client can leave clean and fresh, that is very important for us.” Different Strokes By offering a more substantial service than his competitors, Jordon and the team at Area are among an ever-increasing group of barbers making a trip to the barbershop so much more than just a haircut. While women are happy to pay significant sums for a trip to the salon, it hasn’t always been that way for men and their barbers. “I want to change the general public’s perception of the industry,” Jordon explains. “There seems to be a massive gap in the market between hairdressing and barbering, especially when it comes down to how much we are able to charge for our time and the services we provide. “I feel the difference can be attributed to people’s lack of understanding of what we do and our capabilities as barbers. Because of this I feel that a lot of people in our industry are undercharging and therefore undervaluing themselves. Not all barbershops offer particularly good haircuts or service for that matter. At Area Studio we strive to offer a salon quality experience and an exceptional haircut that is tailored to that individual. Considering that most premium high street salons charge over $100 for a 45 minute haircut appointment, why is it that shops specialising in men’s hair offering the same if not more than those salon cannot charge the same or even close to that amount?” It’s a problem many barbers in the UK are

facing as well, as they increase their education levels and offer a higher quality service, and Jordon believes it’s not the only similarity between his native country and his new found home, saying, “I think at the moment there isn’t a great deal of difference between the two countries’ scenes, especially as we are all able to share so much of what we do through social media and take inspiration from all over the world. “I feel as though the UK is leading the way when it comes to merging traditional barbering and contemporary men’s hairdressing. I think longer hairstyles are maybe more popular in the UK at the moment and I find a lot of people in Australia want very short hair, that can be attributed to the different climates or maybe that Australia is always a little bit behind when it comes to styles etc., for example we’ve only recently had clients requesting crops and tapers. Generally speaking, the Europeans are the tastemakers and trend setters for our industry. “I personally believe Menspire are one of the leading influences globally in trendsetting & pushing boundaries. I also follow a lot work from American barbers though. my passion in hair has and I feel will always be with afro Caribbean hair where i started, so anyone doing that extremely well will be always be on my forefront.” Pushing Forward If anyone is going to help Australian barbering keep pace with their European counterparts, it’s hard not to imagine that Jordon and Area will be at the forefront. But he’s taking everything in his stride. He tells us: “Everything up to this moment in time has been an incredible journey, but not everything has resonated just yet though. We are still in what feels like the extremely early stages, as the shop has only been open since March of 2016. “In saying that, the team have been striving individually to reach this very point. I have dozens of memories from my life where I’m able to look back and view everything as a whole picture and tell a vivid story, beginning to end. I’m not able to step back and look at this canvas quite yet, i feel we are just getting the brushes ready.” We can’t wait to see the finished work.

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Michael Johnson Hair Expo Men’s Hairdresser/Barber Finalist

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melbourne’s barbering angel:

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Walking the streets of Melbourne in his ripped jeans and backpack, tattoos covering his visible skin, your average, uninformed passer-by might confuse Nasir Sobhani with the people that he’s there to help. While they’re wide of the mark, Nasir has been as low as it’s possible to go, and his troubles and trials are what have led to him picking up his case and using his barbering skills to help the city’s homeless. How did you get into giving homeless people haircuts? I am a recovering drug addict and cutting hair is what I love what I do. As a Baha’i, it also encourages me to serve humanity and so cutting hair has become a new drug for me. It’s how I get high. I never took a day off getting high, but now that I’m sober and cutting hair has become my new high, I never take a day off doing that either. How big an effect can a good haircut have on a homeless person’s life? Whether you’re homeless or not I think getting a hair cut, a good hair cut, can make a huge impact on anyone. People love the fact that when they wash their hands they feel clean, when they take a shower they feel new. So imagine getting a full on make over. Imagine how good that’s going to make you feel. You’re going to feel clean, you’re going to feel new. So maybe you can then start thinking new and maybe you can start thinking clean.

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You tell the stories of the people you cut on Facebook, how important is it to get their stories out there? I think it’s very important to get their messages out there. I feel like it humanises people - it puts a face to the faceless and gives a voice to the voiceless. Sometimes we walk by homeless people like they’re props on the street and not actual humans. By taking the time to actually share their stories we realise that everyone’s got a story. No one wants to be homeless, no one wants to be in the situation that they end up in sometimes. Also, I don’t ask for anybody’s story. It’s only if they want to share it because it’s not about likes on Facebook or on Instagram, you know what I mean, that’s bullshit. It’s all about spreading awareness. Why do you think they are so willing to open up to you? I think they’re willing to open up to anybody, but no body gives them the chance. I’m one of the only people who does, that’s why, it’s simple. Has what you’ve been through in your past has made you more empathetic to the struggles of your clients? Yeah, I guess the fact that I’ve gone through my own drug addiction, it’s definitely helped me gain a connection with them. I think they feel comfortable with me sharing certain things and we joke about how this is my new way of getting high and they often tell me, “oh wicked, so I’m essentially your new drug dealer.” We can joke about that. You’re incredibly passionate when it comes to cutting hair. Can you tell us where this passion stems from? My passion comes from the fact that I was able to replace one addiction with another. The art form of cutting hair, making people happy and making them feel good - that’s something that’s addictive. To do that for someone else…to make someone feel like that, and the rush that I then get, that of course accelerates the passion. Also, the fact that I know that I have this responsibility and that I can make people look better on the streets or in the shop, it makes me just want to be a better barber all around so I can make them feel as best as possible. It’s like an athlete who trains their best to deliver their best performance. That’s like me, in the sense that I train my hardest so that I can give the best cuts. Your Baha’i faith plays a big part in what you do, could you tell us a little more about that and how it came about? The Baha’i faith is the most important thing that drives me to do what I do. Well, I grew up in a Baha’i family, and in recent years the Baha’i Faith has served as a great inspiration to a lot of what has transpired—starting with my recovery from substance abuse and newfound sobriety, to a lot of what drives me to offer my services as The Streets Barber. Baha’is believe in the oneness of humanity, the importance of unity, and the elimination of all forms of prejudice. That we are all children of one God, and that we should love all of humanity, regardless of race, creed, gender, or faith. Lastly, that we are spiritual beings on a physical journey, and one way to make use of our time here on this beautiful earth is to try and develop our spiritual qualities, to love others, and be of selfless service! Do your clients value the ideas of the companionship and intimacy that comes with a free, friendly haircut, rather than somebody just tossing cash at them? A lot of my clients value the idea of companionship and intimacy. It is way more beneficial than giving them a gold coin, because then at the end of the day, that’s what they’d all feel like they’re worthy of. A dollar or two, maybe five dollars at most or a coffee and meat pie from 7/11. That’s nonsense. At the end of the day, by me taking the time to actually show them love and make them feel like they’re actually worthy of a make over and worthy of my time, that’s moving for both them and me. To see their appreciation and see them being so grateful for what I’m doing. It’s like a two-way part. How do you enjoy working at Brother Wolf during the week? Do you prefer working on the initiative, or do you see them both in an equal light? I love working at Brother Wolf man, but the thing is whether I’m on the

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street or whether I’m in the shop, at the end of the day as long as I’m cutting hair, I’m cutting hair. That’s how I see it so it is an equal light. What does the future hold for the Clean Cut Clean Start initiative? Do you have any big plans? I don’t want to just be The Streets Barber; I want there to be a team of Street Barbers. We can’t have a global movement with just two hands. That’s the whole thing. I want all of us to use our talents and our skills to benefit mankind. We’ve been blessed with something that can help change people’s lives. Why is it just up to a select few of us in this world to actually do that? Why don’t we all do that? That would be sick. So that’s my big plan. I want everybody to be able to do this. It’s an army, you know?

FOLLOW THE STORY @THESTREETSBARBER


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Kaleb Pritchard Hair Expo Men’s Hairdresser/Barber Finalist

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barbershop

ROSS CARTER


ROSS CARTER BARBER SHOP It’s easy to focus on big barbershops in the big cities, but serving the vast majority of clients around the UK are small, independent shops with just a barber or two and a grateful clientele. Of course, that doesn’t mean you need to compromise on quality and Ross Carter has ensured his shop has been at the top of the trade, winning Best Barbershop in Falkirk last year, while Ross has appeared on stage at numerous shows including Salon International.

It’s easy to focus on big barbershops in the big cities, but serving the vast majority of clients around the UK are small, independent shops with just a dedicated barber or two and a grateful clientele.

alongside Ross on a daily basis he will be attending Ross’s first evening course at Falkirk College in September as Ross takes the next step into education.

Of course, that doesn’t mean you need to compromise on quality and owner Ross Carter has ensured his shop has been at the top of the trade, winning Best Barbershop in Falkirk last year, while Ross has appeared on stage at numerous shows including Salon International.

Steven can be optimistic about his future as Ross has proven his skills on many a big stage and enjoyed it thoroughly.

SHOP – COMMUNITY AND STAFF When we talk with Ross he’s just been visited by one of his regulars. An old man local to the area who’ll pop in most days just for a chat and maybe even sweep the floor to help out. It’s that type of place, where whether you want a haircut or if you’re just lonely and want someone to chat to you’ll be welcomed with open arms. “We’re a small community based shop,” Ross says as he tells us about his daily visitor. “Not like the big shops in Glasgow. But we’re extremely busy – from the minute we come in to the minute we leave, we never put the clippers down. “It’s like what Garry Jackson from Northern Ireland says that the community has paid his mortgage over the years, put money in his pocket, and that’s what it’s been like for us, so we like to give back.” The shop has been the heartbeat of Falkirk’s community for 17 years now, and opened when Ross was just 21. Working alongside Ross is the just as experienced Alan Bow who has been with him for almost a decade. He’s the definition of a classic small town barber, just interested in keeping his clients happy. Ross tells us: “Alan and I have had the same training and he’s a great barber, but he’s not interested in shows or anything like that. He just wants to come in, do his work, make his money, and go home.” A man after many people’s heart! The future of the shop lies with Steven Fotheringham who has been cutting hair for just a year, but has sufficiently impressed Ross that he’s got high hopes for him. “I wasn’t cutting hair as well as he is after a year,” Ross admits, “so I want to help train him and get him into show work. I want to push him and have his name as part of my reputation, for people to say ‘Oh he was trained by Ross Carter.’” It’s a big ask but Steven is well placed to realise those ambition; as well as working

STAGE WORK

He says: “I love doing stage work. It’s different from standing in the shop all day and though you’ve got an hour on the stage which sounds like a long time, it just flies in.” The importance of contacts in barbering can’t be underestimated – if you want to make it big it helps to know the right people and for Ross the right person was Bernice Fowler of FAB Hair. As well as giving him his first chance on stage at Salon International, Bernice now handles all his out of shop commitments, allowing him to concentrate on cutting and inspiring. He joins the likes of MK and James Beattie in letting Bernice take charge of their appearances, showing how highly he is regarded. We’ve ran into Ross at the Scottish Hair and Beauty Show and the Scottish Barber Expo where he was cutting at both, and he’s impressed with the quality on show in the Scottish scene at the moment. “I think there’s a lot of talent come through recently. Obviously you’ve got Davie Walker doing well and you’re always going to have Alan Findlay at Rebel Rebel. I think Mohair are big on the scene at the moment.” Although Ross has established himself in the Scottish and British scene, he isn’t taking his success for granted. “The first thing I say when I’m on stage is ‘you never stop learning’,” he tells us humbly. “If you think you’re the world’s best barber you might as well put your tools down. I always say ‘I’ll show you what I can do, if you take something away I’m happy, if you don’t, you don’t. There’s no love lost but with all the experience I’ve got there’s a lot to pass on.” FUTURE Passing on the skills he has learned in his two-decades long career is now what Ross is turning his focus toward. As well as mentoring young Steven in his shop, he hopes to emulate the career of Alison Scattergood who has done such good work at East Durham College when he takes up his role at Falkirk College in September. If you’re lucky enough to be in his class, listen to what Ross has to say – he has a lot of wisdom to pass down.


ROSS CARTER BARBERSHOP


BEC @ BARBER CONNECT 2017

Following on from the success BEC had at last year’s Barber Connect show, we were amazed at how friends new and old flocked to our stand excited to see what BEC had to showcase as part of the up and coming trends for our barbering industry. It was easy to see that our industrial theme coupled with an emphasis on vintage was a real crowd pleaser - this is reflected in the huge interest you guys have all shown in this years range since the show - we are amazed how many of you have joined us by following our progress through social media. We spent two incredibly busy days being surrounded by Barbers who were

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really passionate about our industry and excited about what we had to offer. It’s been great to welcome many of you guys as visitors to our large showroom in Leicestershire, where you have been able to touch, feel and try out the UK’s largest display of barber shop designs our aim is to encourage your creative juices to enable you to design your dream Barber shop. All in all it was a fantastic show for us, we met some wonderful people who have become great friends as well as leading business entrepreneurs- we are so very proud of the great things you guys have had to say about our products - we can’t wait for next year so we can do it all again!


Call - 01455 660 120

Call - 01455 660 120

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If you are thinking of doing a refit or starting up a new Barbers then don’t miss out on the opportunity to kit out your barbers for FREE. Enter our biggest competition of all time, worth over £2000 its simple, answer 3 simple questions and you could be on your way to having the salon of your dreams with the help of SEC. * Terms and Conditions Apply Visit Our Website Now to Enter Good Luck! www.barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk Call - 01455 660 120 @salonequip

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@barbershoporiginals BarberNV Magazine | 79 BarberNV Magazine | 79


JOSEPH LANZANTE

Tips for achieving the perfect shave

Internationally renowned barber, Joseph Lanzante shares his expert knowledge on how to give clients the perfect close shave.

Men enjoy being pampered much more than they once did, so I find that offering a shaving service is great. They can come in for a complete, fresh new look, not just a haircut. If you want to start offering a shave to your clients you need to make sure you master it. A decent cut throat shave should last for days, but if you don’t do a good job and your customer sees stubble the next day, you might find yourself having to give a refund. When you seat your customer the first thing you need to consider is the pre-shave ritual, this is just as important as the shave itself. If you don’t properly prepare the skin there is a risk of razor burn so make sure to apply a pre-shave oil to exfoliate the skin and get rid of dead skin cells. This process also helps to soften the beard. Next apply a hot damp towel across the face and mould the towel around your client’s features and leave it for a couple of minutes. This helps to soften the skin and hair to prevents nicks and scuffs. Ensure you choose a good shaving cream and massage it thoroughly into the stubble or beard. It helps to use a shaving brush as it gets in between each hair and gets rid of any dirt which might have built up. It is also worth mentioning the importance of preventing the lather from drying otherwise the razor will not glide smoothly across the face. Once the cream is on ‘tease’ the stubble or beard with the brush to help the hair stand up. When it comes to the actual shave, the razor needs to be top quality, plus clean and sharp to ensure you can cut through those stubborn course hairs. Start shaving in a downwards angle inch by inch to make sure the whole surface area is covered. It is essential to shave with the grain to prevent irritation, rashes and ingrown hairs. When it comes to the top lip create what I call the ‘piggy nose’. Lift the tip of the nose up and still moving in a downwards directions, work quickly, as this is a sensitive area. Once you have finished shaving, the post shave treatment is also important. Massage the face as you take all of the foam off and

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remove any moisture from the shaved area. Pick up your cold towel, and in one swift movement lay it across the clients face and again, mould it around the jaw and cheeks. This contracts the skin and closes the pores. Leave this for a few minutes and when it’s time to remove the cold towel, replace it with a dry one. Again, lay it across the gentleman’s face and massage the skin over the top of the towel. Continue until all the excess moisture is removed. To finish, you should go the extra length for your client, so fold the towel into three lengthways and hook it around their chin, then pull to stretch their face out. Now fan your client with a towel to help cool his skin down. Finally, use a good quality moisturiser. Rub it into your hands first and then massage into the face in slow, circular movements. Finish off with an aftershave, slap it into your customer’s skin - not too hard! This wakes the skin up again and brings the blood back to the surface. Now your client should have soft, smooth skin, rid of any facial hair and if it has been done properly, it will last for days. For further advice, the Joseph Lanzante Shaving Course is an excellent service to help you improve and perfect your shaving capabilities. It helps you to understand different growth patterns, face shapes, skin sensitivities and dealing with tricky skin textures. The course gives you a totally thorough teaching experience, starting with the basics and encompassing the science behind the skill. It covers all stages of shaving and includes: Hands-on experience of cut throat shaving, the hot and cold towel experience, health and safety dos and don’ts, and product knowledge. The course also gives you an insight in how to market this service, another tool which will benefit you in your extended business venture. The course can be held the training academy or off site. To find out more visit: www. josephlanzante.co.uk/oneday-shaving-course or call 01200 425 559 or follow Joseph Lanzante on Twitter @ JosephLanzante To watch Joseph give a professional cut throat shave visit: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=jN5gmdwATY4


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BarberNV british Fellowship News

The Fellowship for British Hairdressing is an organisation that is dedicated to the sheer creative excellence of the industry. They continue to offer an incredible calendar of events to their members, as well as putting together incredible stage shows. 2017 has been as busy as ever, with creative and business events up and down the country and beyond! July 3rd was the night of the Fellowship’s Colour Night. It was an evening to celebrate the colour trends of the moment and the skill and expertise of eight industry colour masters. On the line-up was Siobhan Golden from Toni&Guy, Mark Creed from Idlewild, M J Farmer from Rush, Ashleigh Hodges from Jamie Stevens Hair, Sean Nolan from HOB Salons, Clayde Baumann from D&J Ambrose, Stuart Ross from Sassoon Academy London and Chloe Ascott from Hare & Bone. And the star of the evening was Robert Eaton, special guest and current British Colour Technician of the Year, who was interviewed by President Karine Jackson. The audience were absolutely blown away by the level of work demonstrated on the evening, among which was an incredible colour change from Chloe Ascott, where she took a dark long-haired male model to a clean, platinum blonde with pastel blue hues running throughout the lengths. It’s not just creative hair work that Fellowship members have been enjoying this summer. They joined forces with HOB Salon’s Director

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Clive Collins for their In Business event, an all day workshop with 15 salon owners and managers who came together at the HOB Academy. Hosted on the day by Edward Hemmings, this workshop was all about what it takes to have a successful salon. It’s not every day that you get to soak up first-hand knowledge and experience from someone who has built a ’27 salon strong’ company! Clive shared his experience and knowledge and some of the key strategies that have helped him to get HOB Salons to where it is today. His jewel in the crown of advice is to rebook every client before they leave the salon, stating that without client retention, you simply cannot grow your business! In June, the Fellowship went global with the F.A.M.E. Team completing a whirlwind tour of Sydney, thanks to the support of BaByliss PRO UK. The talented team presented at the internationally renowned Hair Expo Australia, the GenNext show which supports up and coming talent, and even found time to work on a BaByliss PRO UK campaign shoot with David Mannah. They accepted many an invitation along the way, including dinners with Jayne Wild and Gary Latham, a meeting with the Australian F.A.M.E. Team, the Masters of Hair Gala, the Australian Hair Awards and a Look & Learn session with Eugene Souleiman. It was the experience of a lifetime and the team worked so hard, on the go from the moment they landed.


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C HA N G ING S PACES As a barbershop owner, deciding on your interior look and layout are among the most important elements when designing your salon. They shape not only the personality of your barbershop, but can also affect revenue opportunities and ultimately make or break the clients’ experience. Everything from the colour scheme and equipment to treatment options and final furnishings all lend a hand to define your barbershops’ overall brand and vibe, but where should you start? BarberNV sits down with Cari-Anne Rawlinson, Marketing Executive at Takara Belmont to discuss the different ways your chosen chair style can define your barbershop. When you think of traditional barbershops, a picture of elegant walnut furniture, luxury upholstery, checkerboard laminate, and ornate mirrors springs to mind. During what was considered the ‘golden age’ for barbershops, men would frequent their barbers as often as they would their local pub or tavern. This can be seen again today with more and more barbers introducing the addition of a tipple whilst getting your short back and sides. “Traditional barbershops are seeing a huge resurgence today, as many clients now seek a men-only experience,” explains Cari-Anne. Fitting perfectly with this aesthetic is the celebratory Legacy 95. “Featuring an iconic stainless steel footplate complete with ‘BELMONT’ embossing, a robust framework and undeniable build quality that ensures decades of performance, the Legacy 95 is a real show-stopping investment piece for your salon,” says Cari-Anne. Globally renowned for creating classic and timeless barber chairs that have graced many different barbershops over the years and generations, Takara Belmont are best known for their iconic Apollo 2

chair. “Few, if any, barber chairs have captured the imagination of barbers or dominated global interiors quite like the Apollo 2. Its timeless design, stylised contours and distinctive ironwork, paired with its build quality, strength, comfort and reliability gives salon owners years of uninterrupted service,” says Cari-Anne. Available in a wide range of colours, the Apollo 2 can be customised to suit your salons personality with custom piping, whilst optional extras including the iconic integrated ashtray on the arm and manicure add that classic touch. For barbers looking to break the mould and create something a little more contemporary, the Cadilla M offers a versatile option for barbershop owners. “The Cadilla M is a real multipurpose workhorse. It can be used as a standard styling chair, lowered for traditional cut throat shaves or for use at the backwash,” explains Cari-Anne. “It’s also a great option for barbers who are tight on space in their shop, but don’t want to compromise on their equipment. The Cadilla M boasts all of the qualities and unrivalled build of our Apollo 2 or Legacy 95 chair, but in a space saving, compact version.” Featuring a removable headrest, reclining backrest and footrest with stopper, and with customisable options including contrast piping and heat pressed upholstery, you would be forgiven for thinking this was the Apollo 2’s younger brother. Whether your desire is to deliver a traditional or more modern experience to your staff and clients, Takara Belmont offers its 95 years of industry experience to give you the most suitable barbershop chairs and equipment for the job. For more information, please visit www.takarahairdressing.co.uk or call 020 7515 0333

TA I L O R - M A D E F U R N I T U R E


LJK International Men Collection 2017 Hair: LJK International, 1o1BARBERS, Salvador Chanzรก Photography: Benedikt Walther Fotografie

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RED CARD! The Worst Haircuts in Football Earning more money in a week that any of us will make this year, footballers have the resources to look slick and sharp at all times. And yet, as these images show, so often they have fallen short in the style stakes. Check out these own goals from some of the biggest names in the game.

Guillermo Ochoa

@robtheoriginal

Kyle Beckerman


Ronaldo – World Cup 2002 Perhaps the most talented player of all time, the original Ronaldo’s career never reached the peaks it could have due to a series of knee injuries but the worst thing to befall the Brazilian was this scare-do. Over the years Ronaldo has given several reasons for why he sported this cut at World Cup 2002, including that he wanted his child to stop confusing him for Roberto Carlos (understandable) and that he was trying to distract media attention from his injury problems (it worked), but we feel there’s just no legitimate excuse for this.

Ivan Perisic – European Championships 2016

Ronaldo

Following your national team at a major tournament is a patriotic experience, so actually playing for them must inspire fierce passion. Inter Milan signing Ivan Perisic took it to new extents however at Euro2016, adorning his head with not only his squad number four (in case he forgot, presumably), but the other side with a map of his homeland Croatia. It’s not the first time Perisic has took his patriotism above and beyond, previously dying his hair in the famous Croatian check.

Romania - World Cup 1998 How do you celebrate beating England in a World Cup? Unfortunately for the Three Lions it’s a question that almost every team needs to ask themselves. Romania’s innovative idea was to beat the current blonde trend by almost 20 years with this bleached look, forcing the entire world to ask “Will the real Slim Shady please stand up?” Not many men are delighted about going bald, but follically challenged goalkeeper Bogdan Stelea must have been thanking the Lord he avoided the whole fiasco.

Ivan Perisic

Paul Pogba – every other week The most expensive footballer in British history needs to be thanked for his services to barbering. We can’t always vouch for the quality of the work but he certainly keeps his barber busy. Leopard spots, a Pokè ball, the bat signal, and a dabbing emoji are just some of the colourful designs to grace the sides of Pogba’s head. The midfielder came in for criticism in his first season at Man Utd but after walking away with a League Cup and Europa League trophy for his trouble, we won’t be surprised to see them on the side of his head when the Premier League returns.

Guillermo Ochoa – Perm-anently Mexican national team goalkeeper Guillermo Ochoa burst on the scene at the 2014 World Cup. His fantastic performances should have been what caught the eye, but instead everyone was asking “Is that Ted Mosby with a perm-updo?” Yes, his striking resemblance to the How I Met Your Mother character may have cost him a move to a big club in Europe after the TV show’s dismal ending alienated half of the western world. Still, it takes confidence to pull off this hairstyle in the masculine world of football, so hats off to him. Or maybe hats on until he finds a barber…

Kyle Beckerman – World Cup 2014 The United States of America have long wanted to make an impact on the world footballing scene but this Rastafarian haircut might not have been their first choice. Kyle Beckerman’s Medusa-esque dreads frame his face like something reminiscent of an HP Lovecraft novel. In fairness, his hair looks perfectly clean and in keeping with his religious beliefs, our main complaint is that he didn’t visit his barber in over a decade – c’mon Kyle, we have to make a living here!

Romania - World Cup 1998

Paul Pogba


Lapin Hair: Jose Garcia Peluqueros Make-up: Isabel GarcĂ­a Styling: Eunnis Mesa Photo: David Arnal Products: Schwarzkopf Professional


Aesthetics

Dr Nestor Demosthenous

The rise of men’s treatments and the celebrities inspiring them… In a world where we are living longer and retiring later, aesthetic cosmetic treatments offer a way of looking the best we possibly can for our age. Non-surgical treatments have been hugely popular with women over the last five years; in fact, it has been reported that there has been a surge in popularity for the procedures, while their surgical alternatives have seen a drop of some 40% among women worldwide. With popular treatments ranging from lip fillers, cheek fillers, and Botox to fight the signs of ageing, women are well-versed in the possibilities that aesthetic procedures can offer, and if they aren’t on first-name terms with an aesthetic doctor, they are likely to know of one through friends and colleagues. But what about men? The option for aesthetic procedures for men is discussed far less than it is by their female counterparts, but that doesn’t mean it should dismissed as not being of interest. In fact, demand for male cosmetic procedures in the UK has increased by 110% in the last 17 years, demonstrating that men may be just as concerned with their appearance and negative signs of ageing as women – it’s just that they are less vocal about it. So, what is it that persuades a man to take the plunge and book in for a procedure? From experience of talking to patients at my Medical Cosmetic Centre in Edinburgh and at the PHI Clinic on London’s Harley Street, it is much the same reason as women in the UK’s capital cities – they are looking for discreet and effective non-surgical treatments that will help them to feel they are looking the best they possibly can for their age. We have a huge amount of experience in using a wide variety of injectables at the clinic, as well as hair, eyebrow and beard transplants. And while for many men - as well as for women - investing in a treatment can be a huge boost to their confidence and self-esteem, these days, celebrity inspirations are also fuelling demand. Since opening a Hair Restoration Centre as part of my clinic earlier this year, I’ve seen a huge demand for hair restoration procedures. Men get in touch from all over the UK to book in for a consultation and discuss their options; they understand that hair restoration procedures are so much more sophisticated now than they used to be, and that they can achieve fantastic and believable results with the right doctor. Patients come to see me for all sorts of reasons; from older men who are looking to regain some of their youthful vitality, to younger men who are worried about premature hair loss. Many also share the

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Words: Dr Nestor


Aesthetics

David Beckham

Gerard Butler

Idris Elba

common ground in that they are inspired by celebrities or others in the public eye, and patients often show me the same photographs of men whose hairlines they want to be able to emulate. It’s often celebrities with full hairlines and thick heads of hair, like David Beckham, Tom Hiddleston, and in more than a few cases, Jude Law – someone they suspect of having undergone a restoration procedure himself, which has produced great results. Beard transplants are also on the rise and again I believe it’s a mark of how celebrity culture is influencing modern men. Celebrities such as Gerard Butler, Idris Elba, and, of course, David Beckham again, are seen as traditionally masculine and now that they are all sporting full beards, the look is becoming much more in demand. As a result, the men who would struggle to grow a beard of that nature are looking into alternative options, and a beard transplant procedure is certainly an option that could help them to achieve a celebrity-esque face of hair. When it comes to aesthetic cosmetic procedures for the face and the way men look, I have also seen an increase in popularity with regard to men opting for treatments. Men are slowly but surely becoming far more aware of the options when it comes to aesthetic medicine. Many men want to look their best in the same way that women do, but they dread the thought that anyone might know they regularly have Botox or fillers – men want the assurance that their procedures will be virtually undetectable, so that they just look great, but nobody can put their finger on exactly why. When it comes to inspiration for the kind of look many men aim to achieve, it is the names of classically handsome, masculine men that crop up time and again. Men might mention Jon Hamm, an actor with a broad and defined jaw, and when I explain that I can subtly recreate a similarly strong jawline, they often want to book on the spot. It’s the Don Draper effect – suave Don always gets the girl, and men want to emulate that timeless style

and his effortless virility in any way they can. Subtly-placed fillers along the chin and jawline can work wonders in minutes; many a patient has been subtly transformed by the strategic placement of fillers, but to anyone who bumped into them, they would simply think they had always looked that way. It’s all about the placement being as minimal, believable, and natural-looking as possible. Another figure whose name pops up regularly is actor Tom Hardy. For most men, Tom seems to be the definition of macho: bold features, definition and great tone in his face. He frequently tops the charts when it comes to most attractive actor for women, so it’s easy to see why other men might be keen to emulate his good looks. Tom’s nose, in particular, is a really striking feature; it’s bold without being over large, broad without being flat and offers great definition to his face. Men have requested the ‘Tom Hardy nose’ several times now, because it is something we can look at recreating with dermal fillers. This kind of ‘nose job’ is becoming far more

popular than traditional rhinoplasty, which costs thousands of pounds and takes weeks of recovery. The filler nose job is quick, relatively painless and can transform your look in the same way, without the breaking of bones, the bruising or the hefty bill afterwards. This highlights why so many more men are turning to aesthetic cosmetic procedures; they don’t involve surgery and yet the results are fantastic; there isn’t any ‘down time’ following a procedure, so no excuses made for time off work; and there isn’t the same pain level. The results that can be achieved in both hair restoration and aesthetic cosmetic procedures are incredibly far removed from even a decade ago. Treatments are continually being improved and the resultsa are more natural than ever – allowing anyone to be the best version of themselves that they can be. Dr Nestor is based between his Medical Cosmetic Centre in Edinburgh, and the PHI Clinic on Harley Street. To find out more and book a consultation, please visit www.drnestor.co.uk.

Jude Law

Tom Hardy

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MIKE TAYLOR Hair: Mike Taylor Photography: Liam Oakes

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L o n d o n Men’s Fashion Week

with Revlon Professional

BELSTAFF With a flair for the adventure of the outdoors, the more natural, rugged, textured styles of celebrity hairstylist John Vial beautifully accompanies the adventurous nature of bikers and journey riders, incorporating different cultures, climates and terrains into the fashion that accompanies the hair. Vial steps outside his more distinct styles of sleek, sculpted dos in favour of the rough, natural style, and needless to say pulls it off excellently with the Revlon Professional Hair Team behind him. CHARLES JEFFREY For an upbeat, vibrant mardi gras show, the styles were not limited to the modern day, instead drawing on many styles of historical dress throughout the eras. Some incredibly unconventional but unique combinations were to be found, such as mixing tartan punk with Elizabethan duchesses, Hussar soldiers, British buccaneers, and dandies came followed by a flamboyant drag Queen Elizabeth I. Utilising a variety of different hairstyles and different techniques, crafting mohawks to Tudor style hairdos and Elizabethan style wigs, the unique style made for one of the most abstract, but most interesting collections. CHRISTOPHER SHANNON Going for a unique vibe of teenage hooligans, John Vial takes a vibrant approach to the hair, with bleached hair in a variety of different colours. Having the models’ hair pre-lightened to a white blonde beforehand in order to make the colours stand out all the more, final colours included peach neon, sky blue, lime green and yellow gold, mostly in unkempt, wild styles that embodied the idea of teenage rebellion. Accompanied by classic teenage attire such as bucket hats and baggy jeans, this show brought the whole vibe of teenage hooligans to life. CRAIG GREEN Another show lead by stylist John Vial, this collection focused more solely on his signature style as far as hair was concerned, warped and twisted into slightly more unconventional styles. Drenched in orofluido oil to give the appearance of sweat and vigour, with salt spray dried in, to hold the knotted style. Accompanied by heavy layers of outerwear adorned with graphic designs, and a cool, relaxed feel about the overall collection.

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L M F W .

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Hair: Frank Ortiz Photography: @udophotography

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Hair & Photography: Paul Simmons Styled: Sara Holland Model: Callum Products: Go247

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Sophisticated Homme Hair/Beard/Shave: Eddine Belaid, Yolanda da Silva / Traditional Zürich Barbershop Colour: Marcoi Bajinski Photography: Alexander Palacios Products: Traditional Zürich Fashion Styling: Herrenglobus Zürich

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GRAEME MILNE Hair: Graeme Milne Model: Jingyu Zhu Clothes: Dystra Apparel Photography: Ian Lam

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MAN BACK IN THE TOWN Hair: Yolanda da Silva Hair: Nathalie Moosmann Brand: Traditional Zurich Photography: John Leon 104 | BarberNV Magazine


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PUBLIC ENEMY Hair: Tom Stevens College: Preston College

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ENEMY BarberNV Magazine | 107


Tag @Barbe rNVmag to featur azine e your wo rk! @bradthebarbertaylor @grant_carr_creative

@steve.the.baron

@james_lawrence_barber

@jade_inv_barber

@jackthebarberuk @jarredsbarbers 108 | BarberNV Magazine

@corneliucrihan


Showcase @patrickbrownehair @laurisa_hardgrind

@mrbenjaminsbarbers

@joshconnollybarber

@jiggibarber

@kilianmaddison @jamesbeattiebarber

@mr.shears_

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Robert Rix Words f rom the Wise

The Company of Master Barbers Ltd

Wayfarer’s Arcade, 315 - 317 Lord Street, Southport, PR8 1NH, Telephone 01704 807176 Robert Rix, SHR SRSB MCH MCB

When I first set out on my barbering journey in Glasgow 1991 there were only three barbershops in whole city centre and at the last count there are now around 25 with most of them appearing in the last six years.

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No sooner than I had pressed the send button on my laptop to get my last column off to the editor of BarberNV than I was jumping on to an aeroplane to fly over to Belgium. I was travelling as a guest of Revlon International to attend the Revlon Stylemasters finale that was being held that weekend in Brussels. For me Stylemasters is the high-spot of the year, when all the greatest talent from around Europe and beyond come together to showcase their individual talents before an invited audience of their peers. Revlon’s male-grooming brand American Crew hosted a staggering floorshow complete with an 80s American convertible being driven into the auditorium complete with artists who leapt out and danced on the catwalk whilst a parade of butch looking bare torso models, with quaffed

and coiffure hairstyles, strutted their stuff for the gathered crowd. To give you some idea of the scale of this event, the audience numbered 4,500. The floorshow was just the appetite whetter and the real substance of the show was to reveal who amongst the competition finalists would be crowned Revlon Professional’s Stylemaster 2017 for ladies hairdressing and who would be chosen as American Crew All Star Challenge Winner 2017. Now bear in mind that last year the UK did the double with Ann Veck winning the ladies crown and Sandra Perovic taking the men’s trophy along with the $10,000 prize money. So with a double UK win last year what would be the chance of a repeat in 2017? Well I am glad to report that in the American Crew event the UK once again came out on top with Yorkshire-based Adam Mir gaining first place in the competition.

TAYLOR MADE Adam’s victory bore some significance for me as he works in my old home town of Sheffield. Even more significant is the fact that Adam is employed at iconic Taylor Taylor Barbershop; the significance for me is that when I was a strip of a lad at the tender age of 16 I had set my sights of one day working for the then top man in the town - Albert Taylor, in his Surrey Street barbershop. In those long distant days Taylor’s was seen as the place to be working if you were any good at your job. Sheffield in the 60s & 70s boasted four top establishments, they were Scott’s on the Wicker, Shaw’s on Leopold Street, Lew Burgin’s on Orchard Square, but way, way above all of the others was Taylor’s. My dream of working at Taylor’s never came to fruition as by the time I reached 17 I had made my way south and was carving out my own career path in 60s London’s Mayfair. Taylor Taylor is a family business comprising four barbershops with 24 barbers and two ladies salons together employing over 50 staff. The founder and patriarch Albert Taylor (Great grandfather to some of the current Taylor Taylor board members) started this incredible business way back in 1907. His son in his turn took the reins and was followed by John. The current band of brothers and cousins have expanded the business and developed the Taylor Taylor brand.

Adam is 27 years old and has been with Taylor Taylor for six years. From chatting with him after his victory I learned that he is always working hard to master the craft of barbering. Adam’s interests lie not only in perfecting his cutting techniques but he has also been studying the evolution and development of the craft. Adam is very forward thinking with regard to technique and equipment and is quite the style innovator. After Adams win was announced I met up with the support team from Taylor Taylor, comprised of Nick, Paul, and Dan Taylor,

for a very boisterous celebration after party. Paul Taylor told me that they had seen the talent Adam had and promoted him within the company to a position where he is involved in teaching the up-coming stylists, getting them up-skilled and to keep them on point with the latest trends. Adam is also doing development work with the Taylor Taylor apprentices ensuring that there is a constant stream of new blood coming through the ranks. The next big thing for Adam will be more photo shoot work to showcase his incredible talents to a wider audience.

This year the business will be 110 years old. The Surrey Street branch has just been through a major refit and now presents an up-to-theminute interior without losing out on the incredible Taylor Taylor history.

So well done to Adam Mir - Global Champion, well done to all at Taylor Taylor and well done to Revlon International for giving us the wonderful spectacle that is Stylemasters and the All Star Challenge. Until next time, keep snipping and clipping Robert Rix SHR SRSB MCH MCB

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ALANFINDLAY rebelrebel

Welcome back readers for another exciting issue of BarberNV and as usual I’ll be answering questions from our bulging mail boxes.

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ASK ALAN? Before we get started on them though I would like to give a big congratulations to Marc Van de Hare and his team from BSL 2017 (Barber Society Live) on putting on another great show in Amsterdam in June. This was a new venue for the show this year that was even bigger and better than before with so many acts from the UK and Europe strutting their stuff and in my opinion this is the best organised barbering event in the whole of Europe at the moment. Pencil this one into the diary for next year, it’s a must! Right let’s get down to business first up is:

Readers’ Questions Brian Smith, Giffnock: I’m wanting to set up a barbers, can you give me your five best bits of advice? How can I differentiate in an oversaturated market? AF: Hi Brian so you’re taking the plunge and opening up on your own? Good for you! I would say there are a few things you might want to consider like: 1: Your location. This should be in a good catchment area with plenty of passing trade near transport links and residential/commercial zones. 2: What type of barbering do you want to provide? Conveyer belt or professional barbershop ? The first choice would mean you were competing with all the other £10 haircut shops and client loyalty could be an issue, whereas opening a professional shop where you charge more money for more time spent on your cuts would benefit from more customer loyalty and more turnover. 3: Have a good, sound business plan for at least the first three years of business and this will help make sure you’ve done your sums correctly. 4: Cover all your personal expenses for at least for the first six months from opening date. 5: Invest good money in your brand and interior design as this is how your business will be first received by potential new customers. I think following these five steps will help make your business stand out from the rest. Good luck Brian. Holly Milligan, Shepherd’s Bush I’m working as a hairdresser of mostly women in London at the moment but would like to transfer over to barbering. What should I be working on to improve my barbering and should I take a barbering course? AF: Holly, I’ve seen a massive trend in last few years of hairdressers crossing over to barbering and in many ways having a good foundation in hairdressing will make you a much better barber as you’ll have a good set of styling and scissor skills which are essential for modern barbering. If this is the case with your current skill set then I would put my focus on learning the full range of clipping skills that you’ll need going forward. YouTube is a free learning tool and a great place to get started but considering barbering courses is a wise move and would speed up the learning process. Like everything in life it’s about practice, practice, practice. Mathew Brown, Glasgow I’m working as Barber for a few years now and have seen The B.O.M.B. Squad work their magic at a few different events over the years inspiring me to become a better Barber. How did you guys get started and what skills are needed to perform on the stage? AF: Hi Mathew I’m glad we have had a positive effect on your career so the BOMB squad 1st formed around 2012 but myself and co-founders James Beattie and Foxy although we had already been working together since 2010 on probably the world’s first Barbering art team called Barbers Elite by the NHF which James formed while working for NHF. When our funding for the Barbers Elite was dropped we decided to start out by ourselves when Mr Beattie came up with the concept of Barbers Of Modern Britain aka the B.O.M.B. Squad. You can read more about my time with The B.O.M.B. Squad in our feature in this issue. With our combined experience of barbering accumulating to over 70 years i would say that is the most important attribute for stage work also working on lots of photo shoots will make you more critical of your work and help improve your styling and finishing techniques. Confidence in your ability and public speaking is needed as well. If you get the opportunity to have a go your confidence should come from knowing that you are only talking about a subject you know well. So it looks like that’s all we have got room for this issue big thanks to all of you guys who took time to send in your questions and as usual send them into contact@salonNV.co.uk or DM me on my Instagram @_alanfindlay_ leave your name and shop where you work so we can give you a proper shout out. So till next time I bid you farewell and until the next time Be the best you can be.

af

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TrainingNV.

August/sept 2017 Training Dates Date Course 6th August 1Duration Day Fundamentals

Company/School Menspire Academy

Location St. Albans

Cost £205

Contact 017278 35612

7th August 2 Weeks

Elite Barber

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£1,695

0800 644 6601

8th Aug

1 Day

Total Barbering

Alan Howard

Bootle

£130

0151 525 3149

21st Aug

9 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering (NVQ 2)

London School of Barbering

London

£3,780

0207 404 0988

21st Aug

12 Weeks

Masters in Barbering (NVQ 2 /3) London School of Barbering

London

£5,500

0207 404 0988

21st Aug

3 Weeks

Masters in Barbering (NVQ 3)

London School of Barbering

London

£1,840

0207 404 0988

28th Aug

1 Week

Academic Development

Menspire Academy

St. Albans

£1,299

017278 35612

31st Aug

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0988

4th Sept

1 Week

Clipper Fading Fundamentals

LSOB

London

£940

0207 404 0988

4th Sept

2 Weeks

Elite Barber

Hair for Men Academy

London

£1,695

0800 644 6601

10th Sept

1 Week

Academic Development P

Menspire Academy

St. Albans

£1,299

017278 35612

10th Sept

1 Week

Intensive Development Program Menspire Academy

Canada

£1,050

017278 35612

11th Sept

9 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering (NVQ2)

LSOB

London

£3,780

0207 404 0988

11th Sept

1 Day

Barbershop Shave

Alan Howard

Stockport

£130

0161 477 2234

11th Sept 3 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering (NVQ 3)

LSOB

London

£1,840

0207 404 0988

12th Sept

1 Day

Total Barbering

Alan Howard

Warrington

£130

01925 445512

19th Sept

1 Day

Fundamentals

Menspire Academy

St. Albans

£205

017278 35612

19th Sept

1 Day

Fundamentals

Menspire Academy

Dublin

€ 250

017278 35612

20th Sept

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0988

25th Sept

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0988

25th Sept

1 Day

Barbershop Shave

Alan Howard

Bolton

£130

01204 386511

27th Sept

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550

0207 404 0988

Learn the true art of maLe grooming Professional barbering and hairdressing courses. By Joseph Lanzante - the leading barbering expert. › Traditional barbering one day clipper cutting course

› Hot towel cut throat shaving one day course

› Barbering boot camp four day course

PLUS NVQ level 2 & 3 in ladies and mens hairdressing. To Book - Tel: 01254 427575 · 07984 797726 or visit www.josephlanzante.co.uk 114 | BarberNV Magazine


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THANK YOU! To all of our sponsors and good luck to all of the finalists SUNDAY 10TH SEPTEMBER 2017 THE MARRIOTT HOTEL, GLASGOW IN ASSOCIATION WITH

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

www.scottishhairandbeautyawards.com 116 | BarberNV Magazine

BarberNV Issue 12  
BarberNV Issue 12