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INSPIRING UK & IRELAND BARBERING SUCCESS

Issue 4. March/April 2016.

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NEWS | PRODUCTS | BUSINESS | FEATURES | TR AINING


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Welcome ANDREW BREWSTER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

As we head into spring the weather is heating up and, fortunately for us at BarberNV HQ, so is the barbering calendar with a whole host of events and occasions to look forward to in the coming months.

W

e’ve already met loads of you at Pro Hair Live in Manchester and Salon International in London last month and our diaries are packed full with more opportunities to meet you guys again soon. I caught up with the famous Schorem barbers at Pro Hair Live and let me tell you, their reputation doesn’t do them justice! Absolutely crazy! You can read Larry the Barberman’s exclusive interview with founder Bertus to learn a bit more about the Dutch ‘scumbag’ barbers taking the world by storm. As always at BarberNV we’ll be taking a close look at some of the finest talent from these shores as well, such as Female Barber of the Month Lesley Macbain and Barber of the Month Luka Chitty – names you’ll be hearing a lot more of in the years to come. We caught up with dapper barber Jon Bourne as he prepares to open a new shop in Malvern to go alongside his well renowned Barbertown in Worcester, while the Nomad Barber, who you may recognise from his wildly successful YouTube series, regaled Larry with his stories of travelling the world, scissors and camera in hand. As the barbering industry goes from strength to strength we looked at upand-coming brands Mariner Jack and Captain Fawcett who look set to make 2016 a bumper year.

Just to prove how much you guys mean to us, I even went under the needle and got myself some Botox… Purely for research purposes, not because I’m getting old! You can check the results and see some of the myths and facts about the treatment if it’s something you’re considering yourself. Veteran barber Rob Rix is back with his regular column giving you a glimpse behind the scenes of his shop as he undergoes some big changes, while Garry Spencer is his usual busy self in this issue as he prepares to bring the Great British Barber Bash back to Scotland and fills us in on his latest training workshops. Speaking of training we caught up with educator Mike Taylor to talk about how he got involved in improving the next generation of barbers, and the innovative Mobile Barbering Academy which offers training courses for the industry is our Barber Academy of the Month. Don’t worry we’ve still found room to be packed full of the latest industry news and goings-on, from the latest charity events to important info from the barbering governing bodies. Once again it’s another exciting edition of BarberNV but that’s all down to you guys and the incredible work you do that we are thrilled to report on, so keep it up!

Stay sharp, Andrew Founders Andrew Brewster & Joanne Reid | Editor-in-chief Andrew Brewster | Sales Manager Jenna McIntosh | Sales & Marketing Support Connie Neil | Sub Editor Laura Boyd Editorial Support Simon Ritchie | Design Support Ross Stewart | Design & Marketing PrintNV | Features Writer Ken Hermes, That Little Barber Shop | Columnists Rob & Dan Rix, Larry the Barber Man, Sid Sottung Thanks Reuzel, Schorem, Xavier Berrell, The Lions Barber Collective, The British Barbers Association, Adam Sloan, Anthony Copeland & The British Master Barbers, The Hair Council, The MHFed, Garry Spencer, The Great British Barber Bash, The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, NHF, Myles Lewis, Liz McKeon, Kevin Hamm, Stephen Farrar, Vivid PR, Pickle PR, Seven Publicity, Alison Jameson Consultants, Gary Machin, Steven Thomas Green, Lock Stock & Barrel, Su Clark, Daniel Davies, Salon Equipment Centre, Guerrilla Barbering, Pat Barry, The Irish Barber Alliance, Captain Fawcett, Mobile Barbering Academy, Jack Robinson Pullen, Mike Taylor, The Nomad Barber, Lesley Macbain, Jon Bourne, Luka Chitty, James Williams, Dr Nestor, Tom Chapman, Slade Edwards, Shortcuts, Takara Belmont, The Bluebeards Revenge, Chris Foster, Paul Mac, Westrow Academy, Lynndy Rolfe, Harry Green, Jac Ludlow, Dieuwertje Prins, Marii Rosma, Barber UK, Distrikt, Barber Pro, Cronus, Mariner Jack, REM-MEN, Barber Connect. Cover Image Krijn Van Noordwijk www.krijnvannoordwijk.com | Pictures Shutterstock, Terry Boyd, Mark Shirley, Krijn Van Noordwijk, Iain Crockart, Reuzel. Published by MediaNV Ltd, 132 West Regent Street, Glasgow G2 2RQ | Email contact@salonnv.co.uk | Tel +44 (0) 141 212 5525 | Web www.barbernv.co.uk Copyright All work in this publication is copyright BarberNV Magazine and MediaNV Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

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TICKETS

inc p&p

ÂŁ26

Selling fast! Teams already confirmed - more names to be announced over the next few weeks. Alan & Reece Beak - Ruger Barber | Harry & Reece Green | Luka Chitty | Slicks Guerilla Barbering Team | Sid Sottung | Rebel Rebel | Gregory Max Barbers Hard Grind | Neal Toner / Mick Graham / Jay Fades | The Lions Collective


News

Features

INDUSTRY NEWS

06

14

IRISH BARBER ALLIANCE

09

16 SCHOREM BARBERS

INDUSTRY BODIES

10

CHARITY NEWS

12

36 BARBER OF THE MONTH: LUKA CHITTY

Products

AUTISM BARBERS ASSEMBLE

38 BARBERSHOP OF THE MONTH: JON BOURNE - BARBERTOWN

EDITOR’S CHOICE

22

STYLING

24

ELECTRICAL

26

SHAVING, BEARD & MOUSTACHE

28

SCISSORS & THINNERS

30

62 BOTOX – WHY NOT?

COMBS & BRUSHES

31

FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT

32

64 ROBERT RIX – WORDS FROM THE WISE

Business CHAIR CARE

34

40 LESLEY MACBAIN 44 THE NOMAD BARBER 46 SHOWCASENV PORTFOLIO 56 THE MAN BEHIND THE BRAND: CAPTAIN FAWCETT

66 SCOTLAND’S BEST BARBER

Training

54

70 A NEW TAKE ON EDUCATION

LIZ MCKEOWN: 58 HOW TO SELL

72 EDUCATOR OF THE MONTH: MIKE TAYLOR

KEVIN HAMM: 59 INVEST IN TRAINING

74 ACADEMY OF THE MONTH: MBA

GET YOUR PRODUCTS OUT THERE

STATE REGISTRATION: 60 WORTH IT? BARBERS – DO YOU UNDERSTAND THE RISK

61

76 SID SOTTUNG 78 STEP-BY-STEP WITH SID SOTTUNG AND LS&B 80 TRAINING DATES

Contents ISSUE 4 | MARCH/APRIL 2016

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Right, Wrong, or Somewhere In The Middle? Having a beer with your haircut is becoming as common an aspect of the modern barbershop experience as an eyebrow trim or nose wax. However, you may have read in the national press about a local council who has told a barbershop to stop providing alcohol. The problem here is that local councils don’t appear to have a uniform response to shops on the high street; from allowing shops to open unchecked to allowing untrained barbers on an unsuspecting public who have no idea of the basics of health and safety – sterilisation anyone? This is a nationwide problem and consistency, as in football refereeing, is seriously lacking. The Licensing Act 2003 covers licensable activities such as the retail sale and supply of alcohol. While it could be argued that giving customers a beer constitutes part of the sale (hair

cut), even a free beer with no strings attached would fall under the supply of alcohol. The problem is some councils appear to adopt a different attitude and have allowed it – hence the grey area. Our advice is to contact your council to seek clarification on whether a premises and personal licence is required. If the answer is yes, apply and don’t get caught out. Remember, your barbershop insurance policy should be able to include cover for Loss of Licence; the licence granted for the retail sale and supply of alcohol at the premises/shop. A monetary limit will cover the costs and expenses incurred to appeal the forfeiture of, or refusal to renew, the licence. This is something worth looking into if you plan to provide this service to your customers.

Photograph Jarek Duk Photography

THE SOUND OF SIMON SHAW HITS THE RADIO Simon Shaw, European Artistic Director of Wahl (UK) Ltd, is bringing his barbering expertise to the airwaves as he launches his own show, A Shaw Thing, on Dance Web Radio. Discussing the latest developments and trends in the world of barbery and accompanied by a mix of soul, R&B, gospel, and reggae from the station’s resident DJ Emmet Keane, it promises to be an enlightening and entertaining look into the business. One of the most inspiring and motivating hairdressers in the industry, Simon is known for his innovative and fun take on hairdressing and fans of his boundary pushing approach will be excited to hear him share his opinions and knowledge. There will also be the chance for you to get involved by tweeting @WahlAcademy with your questions for Simon throughout the show. Head to www.dwradio.co.uk for up to date listings information.

Introducing Gentleman and Rogues Club Previously known as Blind Barber, the boys from Dorset have changed their name to Gentleman & Rogues Club. Having built a burgeoning reputation under the Blind Barber name, they were disappointed to have to change their brand but it was prompted by a legal challenge from Blind Barber NYC. However, despite the rebrand they’re still offering the same no-nonsense traditional barbering service you’ve come to expect and here at BarberNV we’re excited to see what’s to come from the Gentleman & Rogues Club in 2016.

National Living Wage With the arrival of the mandatory National Living Wage in April, the government has launched a publicity drive to raise awareness and the National Hairdressers’ Federation (NHF) is urging salon owners to make sure their businesses are ready for this new wage rate. As an extension of the National Minimum Wage for older employees, it is a compulsory legal responsibility that must be adhered to or you could face tough fines and being “named and shamed” by the enforcement regime. Because of this, the NHF is urging salons to use the time between now and April to ensure their payroll processes will be ready for this change. It is also advising salons to look closely at how this extra cost is likely to affect their business and things they can do that may help, for example, telling your clients about the National Living Wage increases so they understand if your prices go up, or reviewing your costs and negotiating reductions wherever possible. NHF chief executive Hilary Hall believes salons could be the focus of the enforcement teams after the move, saying, “The fact HM Revenue & Customs last year ran a campaign around the National Minimum Wage specifically targeting hairdressing, barbering and beauty means it is likely our industry will be in the spotlight when the new National Living Wage comes in.” The government campaign is emphasising four steps employers need to take: • Know the rate (in other words £7.20 an hour for employees aged 25 or over) • Check which staff will be eligible • Update your payroll before 1 April 2016 • Tell staff about any changes to their pay It has also set up a dedicated website, livingwage.gov.uk and a hashtag, #NationalLivingWage

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SEARCH IS ON FOR SCOTLAND’S BEST BARBER Business is booming for Scottish barbers, with a 15% rise in the number of shops opening on high streets across the country. To celebrate, the British Barbers’ Association and premium men’s grooming brand, The Bluebeards Revenge, have launched a new competition to crown Scotland’s Best Barber. With trendy hairstyles popularised by the likes of David Beckham and Cristiano Ronaldo more in vogue than ever, new research conducted by the BBA Association and The Bluebeards Revenge has found that more men are paying frequent visits to their local barbers than ever before. The current fashion for the short back and sides look that requires regular maintenance is said to be fuelling the boost in numbers. Famously parsimonious, Scots are even forking out more than ever to get the latest looks, with the average price of a haircut now 90p higher than a year ago at £12.05. Mike Taylor, director of the British Barbers’ Association, said, “Men are looking after themselves a lot more and have finally realised that the barber is the best person to cut their hair, rather than a hairdresser. There is also a rising demand for hot towel shaves and salons fail to

offer this service”. To coincide with the new findings, the Scotland’s Best Barber competition will see a search the length and breadth of the nation to track down the finest talent in men’s hair cutting and styling. Award winning barber Luigi Caterino, of The Italian Job shop in Galashiels, is set to take his place on the judging panel fresh from being crowned Britain’s Best Shave 2015 and being appointed the official barber for Rangers FC. The competition is open to anyone currently plying their trade on Scottish soil, with the top 25 barbers facing an online vote where examples of their work will be up for scrutiny. The top three scoring barbers will then go on to perform in the national final at the 2016 Scottish Barber trade show, held at Edinburgh’s RHC over Sunday 24th and Monday 25th April. For more information and to enter, visit www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk/ bestbarberscotland/

fudge professional partner with LSB Fudge Professional has announced a partnership with the London School of Barbering that will see the academy’s students trained using the brand’s products and their directors and art team will act as male grooming experts on behalf of Fudge Professional. The collaboration is set to boost both companies by offering an exchange of services that will expand their standing in the industry, and is centred on a shared commitment to delivering excellence in education. London School of Barbering will become an official stockist of Fudge Professional as part of the move, as well as offering tailored education and hair shows for the brand’s hairdressers. Justis McEvilly, Founder and Director of the school, said, “Our collaboration with Fudge Professional is exciting since these two innovative companies have joined forces to offer the market top-class men’s cutting and styling courses for professionals.” “These are companies who are excelling in their field. It’s a strong association for us to be aligned alongside.”

second london shop for ruffians Award winning barbers Ruffians have launched a second shop in London, their third in the UK. Adding to their flagship site in Covent Garden and original premises in Edinburgh, the new store is situated in sophisticated Marylebone, just round the corner from Selfridges. Ruffians kicked off their new shop in style with a lively launch party night on Thursday 25th February, attended by a range of models, photographers, and fashion stylists. They even took the opportunity to reveal their new self-brewed Pale Ale. Known for their supreme customer service – the Covent Garden branch won Best Customer Experience in the UK within eight months of opening – Marylebone looks to be more of the same, serving craft beers and whiskey, or Union Roast coffee if you’re after a more sober experience. Set over two floors, the ground level exhibits a minimal design aesthetic with ceramic tiles covering the back wall. A gunmetal grey and industrial wood area is centred on a long oak table, acting as the perfect communal spot to get some work done on your laptop before or after your haircut. The upper floor continues the wood theme with an all timber wall façade and Scandinavian design armchairs. With 11 Takara Belmont seats, the only problem is you might be seen to quicker than you’d like! We’re sure it’s going to yet another tremendous success for the team at Ruffians, and, from our Glasgow HQ, BarberNV would be remiss if we didn’t mention their selection of Tunnock’s Teacakes and Caramel Wafers – a tasty nod to their Scottish heritage.

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Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards The Scottish Hair and Beauty Awards (SHABA) are back for 2016 and this year they’ve added more categories for barbers and included awards for tattoo artists for the first time ever. While last year’s event saw six shortlisted salons battle it out for the accolade of Best Barbers 2015, now when it comes to Glasgow on Sunday 4th September there will be awards up for grabs in five different categories, while tattooists will have two awards of their own to aim for. The brightest barbering and tattoo talent from across the country will compete to be crowned: • Male Barber of the Year • Female Barber of the Year • Student/Apprentice of the Year • Barbershop of the Year • Shave of the Year • Tattoo Parlour of the Year • Tattoo Artist of the Year

Wahl Barber of the Year It’s one of the most prestigious awards in the barbering world and 2016 sees the return of an even bigger and better Wahl’s British Barber of the Year. Giving British barbers the opportunity to showcase their talent, individuality and creativity, the awards aim to encourage the visionary flair that has made British barbering the envy of the world. As in previous years, to enter the competition barbers must provide three to six images that showcase their technical ability and demonstrate contemporary barbering trends. Simon Shaw, Wahl’s European Artistic Director, is behind the award and is enthusiastic about the level of talent in the industry, saying, “Last year I

was blown away by the standard of entrants. This inspired me to re-launch the competition again in 2016 and give even more talented barbers the chance to stand out and be recognised within the industry. It has influenced me to launch additional competitions to allow further opportunities.” The new categories included in the competition are the Wahl Academy Delegate of the Year and Wahl’s Salon of the Year. Last year, Jamie Dunning from Savills Barbers in Sheffield triumphed over hundreds of other entrants to be crowned the winner and claim £500 worth of Wahl products and the opportunity to work on the Salon International stage with the Wahl artistic team.

bba launch hall of fame The British Barbers’ Association (BBA) has launched a new Hall of Fame on their website to promote its best barbers. Taking advantage of the current craze for all things social media, the project will allow BBA members to upload up to three pictures per month to the website and then they’ll be encouraged to share them across Twitter, Facebook etc. to get people to vote for their favourites with the leader at the end of each month being inducted into the Hall of Fame. The plan is to get people across the net liking, tweeting and talking about photos of some of the industry’s finest styles from its finest talent and there will be recognition for the most popular. Each of the monthly winners will then take part in an exclusive photoshoot for the BBA Annual look book, photographed by industry favourite Tim Collins. Get on to www.britishbarbers.com to pick your favourites and don’t forget to share them!

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Since it started in 2011, SHABA has been one of the highlights of the hairdressing calendar in Scotland. With an increased focus on barbering it is sure to be better than ever before and BarberNV and our sister publication SalonNV are proud to be sponsoring the occasion.

MEN’S HAIR WORKSHOP RETURNS WITH A BANG! Always a great chance for students of the craft to learn from some true experts, the first Men’s Hair Workshop of the year took place on Monday 25th January at Alan d Academy in Smithfield, London. The event, run by The Fellowship for British Hairdressing, saw seven professionals – Ian Florey from Karine Jackson; Ian Rotman from HOB; Joey Power from Barber Barber UK; Jonathan Andrew from Jamie Stevens; Marcus Giamattei from Marc Antoni; Oliver Prestage from Mahogany; and Seung Ki Baek from Rush - providing personal tutelage to almost two dozen students about an array of barbering techniques. Hosted by Edward Hemmings, the night was a chance for the pros to show off some of their skills. Taking the opportunity to pass on your knowledge is just as gratifying for the mentor as the mentee, as Joey Power discovered: “Working so closely with the two students has been so rewarding and we have worked on their

clipper over comb expertise. This is my first time mentoring and I have loved every minute!” Ian Rotman agreed, saying, “I love being able to give something back to industry youth. The three students I have been working with have really developed their skills in clipper work and I get to see this development first hand.” One of the students benefitting from such expertise was Lauren Road from Gatsby and Miller, who said, “I was able to learn some amazing new techniques and I cannot wait to take all the knowledge back to the salon. This was my first time at this event and I feel so much more confident in the skills needed for barbering and men’s hairdressing. A great night!” The Fellowship are beginning to broaden the scope of these great nights with Alan Howard in Stockport set to host the first event outside of London. Check www.fellowshiphair.com for more information on upcoming dates.


Irish Roundup with Pat Barry A couple of months is a short time in the barbering world and the start of 2016 has been no exception. It’s started with a bang and has truly whet the appetite for what is going to be an exciting rest of the year, both in Ireland and the UK. I was very kindly invited to City and Guilds HQ in London by Adam Sloan of the Men’s Hairdressing Federation and Anthony Copeland of British Master Barbers to represent the Irish Barber Alliance in a think tank group with the Hair Council and British Barber Association. Our primary objective was to see if all parties were reading from the same page in their directive to help improve barbering as an industry and, after a long meeting, I have to say I was enlightened and encouraged by each party’s endeavour to help improve and safeguard barbering. The Irish Barber Alliance has noted what seems to be working in each group and we will be initiating certain aspects with the support of our members. I would encourage all Irish barbers to sign up on our website for updates

and future meetings regarding these subjects (www.irishbarberalliance.com). Then on February 28th in Manchester, the famous Rotterdam barbers Schorem rolled into town at the Victoria Warehouse. What a show we had! So many of our members were in attendance and we also launched our very exciting competition, The Irish Barber Alliance Image Awards, which will run these next few months. Our winners will be announced at Barber Connect at The Celtic Manor in Wales, at the end of June. Check the Irish Barber Alliance website for more details and info on our amazing prizes. The excitement doesn’t stop there as now all roads lead to the Oh Yeah venue in Belfast for the much anticipated Belfast Barber Bash on Sunday March 13th. Doors open at noon with the first team taking the stage at 1:30pm followed by the second team at 2:30pm and the final team at 3:45pm before it’s off next door to the after party at The Dark Horse with music from the great DiscoBeard and lots of giveaways from Jameson Irish Whiskey. I can confirm Neal Toner, Conor Taffee, Jay

Murray, Ryan Cullen, Micky Graham, and Paul Preshaw will be taking the stage along with my good friends Alan Findlay, Foxy, and James Beattie – who collectively are Barbers of Modern Britain, AKA, The Bomb Squad. I’m grateful to have been asked to co-present the event with my two pals Garry Spencer and Darren Jones. It’s very exciting as it’s the first of Garry Spencer’s bashes here on Irish soil and I can exclusively reveal that Dublin Barber Bash will be in happening in November. We will have updates and news on our website and Facebook page soon.

paul mac continues to forge his way forward I recently caught up with fellow Munsterman and Lions Collective colleague Paul Mac in Cork. Paul’s work has caught my attention for well over a year now and it’s great he is getting the recognition he deserves. I have worked with him and he truly loves his trade. Trading out of The Crop Shop in Cork as Paul Mac Special, he was initially inspired to become a barber after trying to copy his favourite celebrities’ hairstyles as a child but he didn’t have an easy route to where he is now. “I found it difficult to get my start in the industry,” he says. “Being from the countryside, city barbershops were very standoffish and attractive girls and family friends seemed to me to be getting the breaks, so I started in hairdressing college. I still often go back to do demonstrations for the students and the teachers.” It wasn’t long before he moved on to big salon chain Toni & Guy. “I loved the craic and the vibe. This helped me immensely with my future competition work along with magazine work. However, I knew women’s hair wasn’t for me so I left. After a few setbacks while trying to find a barbers, I did a barber course where I learned old school techniques which have served me well. I’ve been cutting hair 13 years now and been happily self-employed the last year and a half.” Now he’s found his rightful place in the barbering world but he hasn’t forgotten his roots, and still looks to the world of celebrity for influence. “High fashion and pop culture inspire me but I tend to favour the alternative.” The last 18 months have been big for Paul he admits his move to self-employment has aligned well with the resurgence of traditional faded

finalist twice! “I’m also very looking forward to demoing the Irish Barber Bash in Dublin in November as the event in Liverpool last year was great craic so it’s great to see it coming here and it will be great at helping the Irish.” I can’t wait to see what lies in store for Paul.

In other news... hairstyles and a rejuvenation of the barbering industry. “I’d love to see these trends continue but they say longer hair is on the way back and if so I do love a good Mod style! “Trends always come full circle and if you’re stuck in your ways you’ll be left behind. As UFC fighter Conor McGregor said ‘I don’t look at a man who is an expert in one area as a specialist, I look at him as a rookie in 10 other areas’. I couldn’t have said it better myself!” Clearly Paul Mac is not a man scared to redefine himself and look to the future and he has big plans for the coming year. As well as competing for the Irish Hairdressers Federation Barber of the Year he’s entering the American Crew All Star Global Challenge where he was a finalist last year and took home the Men’s Health Magazine Award. “Fingers crossed I will be the first person to become a world

I am very grateful to announce I have been bestowed the honour of advisory consultant for B-Groomed through Jason Nelson and his team in the USA. B-Groomed introduce retail and wholesale exhibitors, main stage attractions, top barber education, product demonstrations, barber battles, fashion shows, workshops, entertainment and hot evening events. The attendees will experience an exhibit floor like you have never seen from the hottest hair and grooming professionals in the industry. As well as featuring the latest product releases for men, they will also be bringing you trending fashions, the newest electronics, sporting goods, automobiles, our “mancave”, a whiskey and cigar lounge, and all things MANLY! Chicago, LA, and Miami… Not a bad way to spend a few days with our US brothers! Check out www.b-groomed.com for more information.

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The National Hairdressers’ Federation (NHF) is the UK’s largest trade body for the hairdressing, beauty, and barbering industry. That’s right, despite the name they also cater for barber shop owners and have been doing so since 1942. With a growing membership of over 5,000 hair and beauty businesses, they handle more than 25,000 calls each year and it’s their duty to act in your best interests and speak confidently on your behalf on industry issues. NHF members get free employment law advice around the clock and commercial advice from 9-5 Monday to Friday, as well as free chair renting agreements, a health and safety toolbox, and a suite of guides to help your run your business (e.g. on chair renting, franchising, and apprenticeships). There’s also a range of discounts on insurance for barber shop owners and chair renters – backed by a price promise – plus music licences, magazines, and a host of services brought to their members through an affiliate program (e.g. wholesalers, software suppliers, accountants, and training providers). The NHF also campaigns on behalf of the industry on key business issues including National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage, pensions, business rates, and VAT. At the end of 2015 the NHF released the latest information on Industry Statistics for Hairdressing, Barbering, and Beauty (which is free to download in full from the NHF website). It found that: • 93% of the 40,000 hair, barbering and beauty businesses in the UK are micro-businesses, employing less than 10 people, although two thirds are even smaller, employing less than 5 people. • As small businesses, 94% generate less than £250,000 in turnover and most turn over less than £100,000 – yet together they contribute a massive £7bn to the UK economy and are the backbone of many high streets. • Hairdressing and barbering businesses are the 5th most popular independent start-up businesses and beauty salons are the 8th most popular. They have also launched a health and safety tool box, which contains everything a barbershop needs to comply with health and safety legislation and to keep yourself and your team safe within the business. The NHF has a fantastic programme of events and competitions, so keep an eye on the events calendar on the NHF website which lists all the latest dates. Check www.nhf.info for more details.

NHF

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It’s been quite a start to 2016 already for the Men’s Hair Federation (MHFed) with a successful couple of days at Salon London already under our belt. The event was much bigger than Salon International so it was great to be there. It was great to invite barbers we admire to show off their work at the MHFed stand and, even better, we got to show Salon Live our new range of clippers – which sold out! It’s no surprise really as they are top quality, quick charging, cordless clippers made in Germany. We’re also probably the only ones to produce them in pink as well, although you can get them in black if that’s your preference. We also had a great response to our RAW Look Book, with lots of copies sold over the weekend, which is great news for charity as all the proceeds go to Prostate Cancer UK. Looking ahead to the rest of the year, while we will of course have some big appearances at events like Barber Connect, Salon North, and Salon International, to name a few, there’s some more intimate but just as exciting events coming up in the next couple of months. The MHFed Masterclasses have been kicking off and they’ve been very well received. They’re an opportunity for followers and members to pick the brains of a different master ever month. We’ve got some incredible talent lined up: Kevin Vorley, Alan Findlay, and Phil Jarman, just to get started. Having been a bit fed up of the big shows where not everyone has a chance to get their hands dirty, we want these to be intimate classes teaching a variety of different genres where people can really learn. What we are doing nationwide is our Continued Professional Development training in collaboration with City and Guild. Anyone working in the education sector has to do a minimum of 30 hours every year to improve so we’re going around to different colleges and doing hands on seminars – training the trainers! It’s only open to the college community at the moment but with some colleges having up to 300 students, we do hope to tack on some opportunities for the Young Feds to come along and do a show. Finally, a mention to our very own Joe Sloan who is taking part in the Fellowship’s London Masterclass on the 21st of March. He’s been invited to go along and perform with a host of different barbers and ladies’ hairdressers and do a bit of education. It’s a real feather in The Feds’ cap to have him involved in occasions like this.

It has been a busy start to the year for The Fellowship for British Hairdressing as they continue to increase their membership. The first Men’s Hair Workshop of 2016 took place at Alan d Academy in Smithfield, London on Monday 25th January, offering a unique opportunity to learn from an array of mentors from different industry backgrounds. Next up for the Men’s Hair Workshop was Stockport on Monday 22nd February, as the event moved outside London for the first time. Non-members were encouraged to come along and find out more about this amazing organisation and they were able to work alongside seven top industry experts, including Simon Tucknell from Zullo & Holland; James Earnshaw from Francesco Group; Ben Sutcliffe from K H Salons; Inky Steve from Barber Barber UK; Jodie Palmer from Russel Eaton; Lauren Arstall from The Colour Room; and Dean Bradwell from Scarlett Moon. With Robert Eaton hosting the event, the experts provided the students with some first class knowledge and skills, making it a great addition to the calendar. A fantastic line-up also made for a brilliant show at Salon London on the 28th February, with the likes of Barber Barber UK; The Young Feds; The B.O.M.B Squad; London School of Barbering; and Foxy all taking to the stage. They haven’t forgotten the north, with Pro Hair Live Manchester on the 28th and 29th February proving to be an exceptional treat with the likes of Middlesbrough talents Scarlet Moon on show. In March they return to Scotland, after a sold out event in Edinburgh last year, as they bring their popular Masterclass to Glasgow. An incredible evening awaits members and nonmembers as they get up close with industry experts working on podiums at the hip Drygate venue in the city. There are still a few tickets left, so do make sure you book your place and take advantage of the opportunity to see some amazing work. The calendar is packed full of exciting workshops, demonstrations, and presentations, as well as some prestigious industry events such as President’s Night. Becoming a member of The Fellowship just got more affordable as, to celebrate their 70th anniversary this year, there is no joining fee to pay – just the annual membership fee.

mens hair Federation

The Fellowship

For more information on how to become involved in The Fellowship, and to find all their latest news and events, check out www.fellowshiphair.com


British Master Barbers continues to make forward strides in their efforts to support and promote barbers across Britain, both now and in the future. The alliance of barbers across the UK was recently part of a barber collective held at City & Guilds headquarters. “We believe education is paramount to the stability and longevity of our industry,” explains BMB founder Anthony Copeland. By bringing the industry together, they aim to ensure the provision of training encourages the stability and longevity of the industry. BMB have continued to develop their online presence, something they see as key to achieving other long-term goals. By creating a strong network within the industry, the alliance intends to in turn engage and excite the general public. Their already impressive social media presence - 85,000 followers at the time of writing - aims to appeal to two succinct parties. “We always remain mindful that our accounts serve a sort of dual purpose”, said Anthony. “Inter-industry promotion is great, but we also want to showcase work to potential clients and get them excited about our industry.” Alliance members can now also add their barbershop to the Good Barbershop Guide free of charge. The online directory, revamped and re-launched last month, allows potential clients to find barbershops near them with its easy-to-use store locator. The eagerly anticipated UK Barber Battle returns for 2016. The event, proudly sponsored by ourselves at BarberNV Magazine, retains much of the same format for this year. Barbers from across the UK can submit their finest work in one of three categories: creative pompadour, freestyle and theme design. The three finalists in each category will then compete for the crown live on stage at Barber Connect, set for Newport’s Celtic Manor Resort on the 26th of June. An exclusive feature in BarberNV Magazine, along with a host of other prizes, awaits the three winners. Following the success of last year’s inaugural event, British Master Barbers Live also returns for this year. The event, set to return to Crawley’s Arora Hotel on the 31st of October, will once again bring barbers and brands together from across the country. BMB Live is an amalgamation of barbering show and exhibition. Mill around the trade stands, converse with other like-minded barbers and witness demonstrations from a line-up of top industry names. Tickets will be on sale shortly for October’s event.

The Barber Council’s battle to promote state registration for all barbers in the UK has taken some positive steps recently with the setting up of an all-party parliamentary group chaired by John McNally, MP for Falkirk, who was previously a practising barber, holding two meetings. It’s a real coup for the industry as whole, as now MPs have had to sit up and take notice of our concerns and Mr McNally has been very supportive of our attempts to promote registration. Our first meeting was to discuss how we can implement registration and educate people on why we want it and why they should. The second was on sustainability in the barbering and hairdressing industries, including how we can cut down on water usage, improve recycling and lighting. It was very productive and it was great to see Kerry McCarthy MP, Shadow Secretary of State for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs taking an interest. We’re attracting the kind of people who ten years ago wouldn’t have given us the time of day, so it’s clear we’re making big strides. We hope that within the next 12 to 18 months we can put together another Private Members Bill to be voted on regarding mandatory registration. We missed out by four votes the last time it went into the house but it gave us an idea of what we needed to do. In other news, we had a great time at Manchester Pro Hair, where it was great to get support from the likes of Simon Shaw from Wahl and Jonathan King from Denman. They’re both on the council and their companies both support registration so it was nice to see them. We attracted a lot of new members over the weekend so from a barbering perspective it was very good. Coming up in the next few months we have a question time forum at Barber UK, which will be a chance for up to 250 people to ask questions to the Barber Council and a panel made of guest speakers. It free to get in and hopefully everyone will take away some good information. Gary Machin, Head of the Barber Council, will also be attending the Barber Bash in Belfast on behalf of the council and will make a trip to the Northern Ireland Assembly at Stormont to meet with MLAs there alongside the Lions Barber Collective and the Barber Alliance to get our message out there.

The British Master Barbers

The Barber Council

To register, check www.haircouncil.org.uk

The British Barbers’ Association (BBA) are proud to announce the return of key industry event, Barber UK, at the NEC Birmingham on Sunday 22nd and Monday 23rd May 2016. With a host of leading names throughout the barbering world in attendance, the show promises to be even more explosive than last year’s, with the BBA looking forward to the return of a series of competitions. It all kicks off with the renowned ‘Britain’s Best Shave’, sponsored by the Bluebeards Revenge, on the Sunday, which will see 12 regional heats whittled down to just eight finalists. The main event will see the crème-dela-crème of the wet shaving world go headto-head in a very special shaving tournament inside a boxing ring. Last year’s winner, Luigi Caterino, fresh from being appointed the official barber of Rangers Football Club, will be back to defend his title. Then on Monday, the ‘BBA Patterns Master’, sponsored by Andis, looks to crown their new winner, and take the place of last year’s victor Kade Cut. This competition involves an online vote to discover the four finalists so BBA members are encouraged to get voting for who they want to see in the boxing ring – but not for fighting! Leaving the best for last, the ‘BBA Barber of the Year’ contest closes the event, with the search currently underway to uncover and attract the most talented barbers in the industry for 2016, and also identify the up and coming stars of tomorrow. Barber UK also sees the finals of the ‘BBA National Student Barbering Competition’, sponsored by Denman brands Jack Dean, Pro Edge, and Oster Clippers. It’s Britain’s biggest competition with over 40 colleges and training providers entering over 250 students. As well as the star studded competitions, attendants are encouraged to attend any of the multitude of seminars on show, including the much anticipated Barber Council Question time. Other seminars over the two days include: Chris Foster – Afro Dizziac, Erik Lander – Longer Hair Cuts, Michael Damiano – Wahl, The Savills Team, and Shaving with The Bluebeard’s Revene and Envy Education. Tickets to these seminars are priced at £10 each. To enter any of the BBA competitions, visit www.britishbarbers.com For more information on Barber UK and to register for tickets, visit www.barberukshow.com

The British Barbers’ Association

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Welcome to the world of Guerrilla Barbering PHASE 2

First of all we would like to thank the amazing response and support from industry brands and fellow barbers getting behind our cause once again! The #IamGuerrillaBarbering videos are amazing and really hit home on how many people want to get involved and support our amazing movement this year. We have had a change since last writing for BarberNV and have rescheduled the dates for our events this year. Our first event will be held on Sunday 1st of May 2016 and will be formulated of all different divisions in the industry. We will be offering free haircuts for everyone and all donations will go to Centrepoint, our chosen charity for Phase 2 (Centrepoint deal with people affected by homelessness from the ages of 16 to 25). EVERYONE and ANYONE is welcome at the event to see a full day of no nonsense barbering, all for charity. We have such a brilliant atmosphere and all egos are left at the door. Alex Perry from Brad’s Barbers told us, “It was one of the best days in my barbering career, such a laugh and the attitude of everyone helping out was amazing. There was no arrogance

and no one was trying to impress each other. A great day of working hard for a good cause and having fun!” We will have stalls and concessions from all different walks of life, from fashion companies to food companies, record shops and more. There will also be concessions from leading industry brands so you can get a great deal and pick up some bits while you’re there! Last year we had such amazing support from the media and social media outputs and this year we

hope that our story will break the boundaries and open up into the public to be reviewed as an event everyone can enjoy whenever we put them on. For barbers wanting to help out on the day or people from the public getting involved in an amazing event and enjoying the world that we love... Barbering. We raised over £1000 for our chosen charity last time. This time we hope to smash that and we need you to help us do it…

REMEMBER We are running two events this year

May 1st 2016 & August 28th 2016 The exact venues will be released via social media nearer the time but will be in east London/Shoreditch areas. If you and your company would like a FREE concession stand at the May 1st event please contact us at guerrillabarbering@outlook.com

If you are interested in participating in our events please find us on Facebook.com/GuerrillaBarbering and Instagram @GuerrillaBarbering.

Balls to Cancer with MR.SE Playing with your balls may usually be all fun and games, but Daniel James, owner of the MR.SE grooming range, is encouraging men to do it in the name of beating cancer – and he’s putting his money where his mouth is. Testicular cancer kills 10 men every hour in the UK so Daniel has teamed up with leading charity Balls to Cancer to ensure that a massive £2 from every sale in his MR.SE range goes to fighting this terrible illness. Daniel hopes the Balls to Cancer branding on each of his products will inspire men to give themselves

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a check, saying, “My thinking behind it is that these products will be sitting in people’s bathrooms and if they see the stickers as they’re stepping out of the shower it gives them a great opportunity to check themselves in private.” He joked, “There’s been a lot of awareness in magazines and on the internet but I’m not sure you can really check yourself while reading about it on a train… That might get you some funny looks or even thrown off!” To see the range, go to www.mrsehair.co.uk

£2

OF EVER Y MR.SE PROD PURCHA SED GOES UC T TO


Fit for Lions Norwegian brand Fit For Vikings have announced an extension to their collaboration with Tom Chapman of The Lions Barber Collective with a new Lion beard care range. An ambassador for the brand since 2015, Tom and FFV owner Hjörtur Scheving, a true Icelandic Viking, have stepped up their relationship by developing five new original scents and two revised scents using only the finest ingredients such as jojoba and Argan oils. It’s not the first time the two have worked together, with Hjörtur even designing the logo for The Lions Barber Collective, but it’s their first venture together into product development. The range will be available very soon and, best of all, proceeds from the sale of any of the Lion beard care range will be going to help The Lions Barber Collective in their work raising awareness for suicide prevention and mental health. Check www.fitforvikings.com for more information.

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How one photograph has helped so many… We know how passionate barbers and hairdressers are about their work, but since the launch of BarberNV our admiration for the dedication you all have to the industry and your customers has skyrocketed.

W

e constantly hear tales of initiatives and groups coming together to better practices and customer care and one man whose tale has really captured our attention (and hearts) is James Williams – also known as Jim the Trim. James runs his Jim the Trim Barber Shop in Briton Ferry in Wales, which was voted Best Barbers in Wales in 2015 at the Welsh Hair and Beauty Awards, and we caught up with him to hear how one photograph, that was taken of him at work, has become a global internet sensation and sparked an idea that is now helping so many. James began his career at 17, after his mum urged him to make use of his creative flair. He said: “I was very lucky to get an apprenticeship in a big salon in my town, Neath, called Emmanuels. The owner, Andrew Lewis, was my mentor in the early years and his guidance has stayed with me to today.” James went on to specialise in male haircuts and, after three years at the salon, he left to explore old school barbering. Combining those skills with his hairdresser training, James’s father Eric helped him open his own shop. As the business grew, they moved to bigger premises in Briton Ferry and it’s there that James saw his career really take off. Then, last October, something special happened… He told us: “Last October, a colleague took a snap of me cutting a little boy’s hair. The lad was lying on the floor and it was my natural instinct to join him down there for the trim. “The boy is Mason Lewis – Mason the superstar, as I like to call him – and he is autistic.

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“For people on the autistic spectrum, having a haircut can be a daunting prospect. “On the day he came into the shop, Mason was lying on the floor watching videos on his dad’s iPhone. “It distracted him so I lay down beside him and started cutting.” This moment was the result of months of work on James’s part as this was not his first encounter with four-year-old Mason. Mason’s parents were advised that James would be a good barber to try for their son. James arranged to meet with them and Mason every couple of weeks so he could build up the young boy’s trust. James told us: “I’ve dealt with children who have autism, ASD and ADHD before so I had a good idea of what would work.”


Charity News. Lying on the floor, on Mason’s level, while he was distracted by the phone, James started to snip and managed to give Mason his first haircut since he was two. It was a proud moment for Mason, his parents and James. James said, “It made my job worthwhile and reaffirmed why I love being a barber. When Mason allowed me to cut his hair, that’s when I realised months of hard work had paid off. His mother Denine’s face was priceless as she was so emotional to see her son make that milestone. To me, moments like that mean more than just a haircut.” James shared the photograph on Facebook, but he never expected the reaction that followed. Within two days, the post reached 2.5 million views. “I was on cloud nine, I didn’t think it was real.” It didn’t stop there. Soon celebrities were sharing the snap, with Ashton Kutcher and Nicole Scherzinger among those who were touched by James’s actions. James told us, “It’s had a massive impact on myself and my shop as a whole. My Facebook followers are now up to 10,000 and my shop is up to 8,000. We are busier than ever and I’m also now part of the Hairbond team, where I have become an ambassador.” While business may be booming, it’s the impact Mason has had on James’s work in helping other children with autism that means the most to him. “After helping Mason and seeing so many families who have children in a similar situation, I knew I had to help out more. I now open seven days a week and my Sundays are only open for children with autism. I was inspired to help out, giving one hour appointments to help the children trust me and get over the fear of a haircut.” It’s certainly worked for Mason – he’s now back every two weeks and has no problem letting James trim his hair with the clippers, while he happily watches his iPad. James is also taking his work further afield, travelling to Paisley in Scotland in the coming months for an event help in the Kenneth Edwards hair salon. Working with David Walker on the venture, he said, “He has been incredible in supporting me in what I’m doing and I’m delighted to have made such a good friend in the barbering industry. “After seeing my post, he helped me pull together an idea to put on a charity event to help children with autism across the country, not just in Wales. “We now have a team called the ABA, which stands for ‘autism barbers assemble’, made up of incredible barbers who I can’t thank enough.” James’s work is really making people stand up and take note and he is travelling to spread the word about what he and the ABA do. “I have my first guest spot April 16th at

Davie Walker’s barber shop, then on the Sunday 17th I’ll be talking to barbers at his Outlaw Collective, to help them understand Autism Awareness. “On June the 1st, I’m a guest speaker at the Autism ball in Swansea, and at Barbershop Connect, we have something planned with help of Larry the Barber – I can’t say too much but it’s going to be special. At the end

of the year we have British Master Barbers to holding an event with the ABA, and hopefully another event in September! It’s all life changing for me as barber.” We wish James ‘Jim the Trim’ every success with this incredibly worthwhile venture and look forward to catching up with him later in the year to find out how things are going.

“After helping Mason and seeing so many families who have children in a similar situation, I knew I had to help out more. I now open seven days a week and my Sundays are only open for children with autism.”

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An interview with Larry the Barber Man

two scumbags who did everything against the grain The name Schorem raises a few eyebrows. However, when Bertus and Leen are mentioned, barbering fans across the world will quickly take interest. Our man Larry the Barber Man got the opportunity to sit down with Bertus to learn of his journey into barbering, of the tremendous events that have led to Schorem’s notable success, and his plans for the future.

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“I

was about fourteen years old,” Bertus explains, when asked on his beginnings. “In high school. I was pretty much a screwup. I do remember one day where I was at my parents’ house with a couple of friends. I think we were watching some skateboarding movies, because that’s what it was all about at that age: music, skateboarding, weed, women, etc.,” he laughs. “Then, at one point one of the guys told me, ‘Look, I want a Mohican.’ My Dad actually had a Wahl Super Taper which I’m actually still using. I told him that I’d do it – a Mohican isn’t an easy haircut. You may think it’s the easiest haircut to do, but it’s a pain.” Bertus explains that, when he was done, the Mohican was pretty wide and wild-looking. “That was the first time I picked up a pair of clippers, and that’s pretty much where my story started. It still hasn’t ended.” He relates that he loved the old days that so many of us associate with the punk movements, and the hairstyles that were involved. “Nowadays, you have guys that come in with an iPhone, showing you a photo of Brad Pitt or George Clooney, and asking for something in the middle. That’s not going to work, is it? The Internet has really screwed with us. It made the world really small, which I love. But it made our minds really small as well, because back in those days the guys would come by with their records. They’d ask me to copy the Pompadours or other styles from the singers. It was also hip-hop stuff, so I found myself doing the figures and the flat tops. I was just trying it out, but that’s pretty much how I got into barbering.” Punk clearly isn’t dead. Bertus keeps it alive in every buzz of his clippers. With a shop that is lacquered, both traditional and unique, vintage and so much more, naturally, I had to ask about the process he went through to come up with his amazing design. Bertus answers, “First of all, this is not the shop anymore. This is where we got started, and now it is the academy because I actually think that the shop looks even better than the school because

the school is more of a professional place. The shop is actually more of a mess --” “Rustic?” I suggested. “Yeah,” Bertus laughs. “The funny thing about this story is that when we actually wanted to open the shop, we wanted to start an American model shop: chrome, jukebox, that sort of feeling. Then, one day, I got a call from the father of my ex-wife, an amateur antiques collector. He knew we were trying to open and he had found the back bar we now have in the shop; it’s 128-years old. The arch with the mirror, the art work, they’re all handcrafted. We actually found a booklet with the names of the client and that booklet is from 1892. It’s beautiful.” Each piece and aspect of the shop is what Bertus describes as an epiphany. From the 200-year old flooring that were tiles taken from old churches and houses to the custom wood, everything displays a great love for history. “The first tools they found to actually take care of a beard were oyster shells, you know? Those were the first barbers. We were the first surgeons, dentists, the first tattoo artists.” The conversation moved to something else Bertus is involved in that has taken the world by storm. Reuzel Pomade. After he goads me a bit about my pronunciation, he tells me the story. “We were in the right place at the right time when we opened this shop. On that same day, we came up with the name ‘Schorem’, which means scumbags or assholes. Before, we were really thinking about an English name and it wasn’t working. We thought, “No, we’re Dutch. We should be proud to be Dutch. With that in mind, I came up with the name ‘Schorem’, which is actually clever because it also means ‘to shave’. He smiles, “When I called my mother and I told her the name of the shop, she cried a little bit. “I don’t want anyone to call my son Schorem.” I told her they’d been doing that for years anyway. We were laughing about the name and thought that if we were going to make the pomade, we were going to call it ‘Reuzel’, which means lard; we thought it was the funniest thing in the world that someone would actually put lard in their hair.”

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 17


“From there, we met David from American Crew, and he helped us make the product. The cool thing is, back in the days when barbers were still surgeons, they did minor operations. They used an ointment made of animal fat to close up wounds and soon found if you used animal fat on an open wound, it was going to get infected. Then they started using it for their hair, which actually worked perfectly, but it started to smell rancid after a while. While they were looking for things to mask the smell, it was discovered that crushed apples worked quite well – the French word for apple is pomme, and some people think that’s where the word for pomade comes from. When we came out with the pig and Reuzel Green, we wanted it to smell like apples as a sort of tribute to that bit of history. That is how products evolve, and how the ideas behind our pomade came to fruition. We stole the idea from the Dapper Dan pomade from the movie O Brother, Where Art Thou?, and even got a can of it. It says it’s made of baby seal fat, and we thought it was hilarious. A male client doesn’t want a cute, white bottle with a nice font. They want a crazy tin can with a dirty pig on it that smells really good, so they have a story

“We should be proud to be Dutch. With that in mind, I came up with the name ‘Schorem’, which is actually a very clever name because it means asshole scumbags, as well as ‘to shave’.” 18 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

to tell. That’s what attracts people, and now Reuzel is sold all over the world. It’s not some big company, it’s two-fuck ups.” He and I share a laugh before he continues, “People see the success: the shop, the school, the festival, and Reuzel, but we tried so many things that didn’t work that people don’t see. I think it is worth it to try and think outside the box, because you never know what’s going to happen when you do.” Recently, Bertus had a visit from Miguel, the Nomad Barber, for his web series. Asked about it, he tells me, “Miguel is so good at what he does. He was here days before Scumbash with Joth of Savills Barbers, and it was mayhem. Miguel was filming, but also partying with us, and that is what makes the movie so good. I’ve been following Miguel from his very first movie, and it was a huge honour for us when he came here. I love what he did, I learned so much about him and it would be so cool if he won the award that his film with us is up for, not because it is us, but I really feel that Miguel deserves an award for all that he has achieved. He taught us a lot.” Bertus and his team have stood out on social media. Instagram has served him especially well, amassing some 180,000 followers. Asked about

what he believes contributed to this, he explains, “In the beginning we just collected stuff about the history of barbering, the history about stuff we got in our shop, lots and lots of haircuts. That was pretty much a hairdressing thing before we started doing it, so we did it for the barbershop and especially when Jelle joined in to take the professional photos. People would recognize our style of working. If we didn’t know what to do, I would bring in my bull terrier dog, put a cape around him and shaving cream – people loved it. We made two posters that went viral and our Facebook page exploded. I think it’s that bit of humour, combined with knowledge about the trade. It works really well to start a discussion and get people interacting. Social media puts a lot of fun into what you’re doing, and it really lets you get to know your fans.” “I love doing a great haircut,” he continues. “But taking a photo of a great haircut, that’s something else. We don’t use Photoshop or blur effects to make the fades look better. We get a lot of critics of our haircuts; a lot of people like them but some tell me ‘I could do better’. Sure you can. I can show you a thousand barbers that do it better. It doesn’t matter, though, because it is what we do and we always believed in that. I think that’s a huge part of why people like following us on social media. Barbering isn’t just about haircuts, it is about trust. When you call your insurance guy or bank, you can’t see the work and you don’t know what the truth is. Craftsmanship and handiwork don’t lie.”


Welcome to the House of Reuzel What Leen, Bertus and The Scumbag Barbers do better than anything else is cut hair. Classic barbering for them, is a profession, beyond a skill, beyond a craft. It’s a mission, a calling – a commitment to provide nothing but the very best pomps, quiffs, flat tops, fades and razor shaves on the planet, as featured on Schorem’s famous barbershop posters. Since its opening, Schorem has been frequented by greasers, rockers, bikers, psychobillys, ruffians and other fine gentleman scumbags from every echelon of society. So when they couldn’t find the right pomades worthy of their exacting standards, they went and formulated their own – and Reuzel was born. More than fifty years of barbering and grooming experience went into creating these products (plus a lot of love), so Leen and Bertus hope you like them as much as they do –

Welcome to the House of Reuzel!

For more info call 01392 365177 or visit www.reuzel.co.uk Reuzel UK

@reuzeluk

@Reuzel


Speaking on the evolution of the styles they do at Schorem, Bertus tells me, “We just wanted to do the classics. In the beginning, we were giving a lot of guys a hard time because we had guys coming in that just wanted to get a haircut at Schorem. They would come in with their spiky hair or with the mullet or the V, and we didn’t do them. They’re like, “I’m paying.” We’re like, “Yeah we know but you can go to the other side of the street.” Then the guys started to come in and said, “I heard you only do special haircuts.” We were like, “No man. You got the special haircut. We do the classics.”” Once I commented on his very theatrical manner of teaching, Bertus laughs. “Leen is always laughing about the way I act and teach. I know when I see it back on video, I go like, “Really? Is that me?” I am a passionate guy when it comes to hair. I can’t help myself, and that’s how I teach my boys. That’s why I go on stage, because I am actually pretty shy, but when I have this haircut to show them, it just comes out. Afterwards, when we got off stage, I just kind of hide. That’s what I find interesting about the school, though. Every week I have six new people from somewhere around the world and it’s an honour. I really want to give them something back for that, and to see these people being thrilled to learn something new, it just pumps me full of energy.” Speaking further on the courses he offers at The Old School Barbering Academy, he explains, “We have a forty week basic course, one day per week, in forty weeks where we teach all the basics of barbering, haircutting and shaving. I’m amazed, looking back at the class we had last year and how much they learned in forty weeks, because the school is actually quite small. We’ve got two teachers that are actually from the barbershop and were taught by us that do that course. Then, you have the advanced course that’s the one three-day course, so you have to know about barbering and hairdressing beforehand. This is just if you want to learn our tricks. It’s pretty much our international course. You’ve got to work on your models and you’ve got my demonstration theater of Bertus,” he laughs. “It’s a really fun course. We also have the shaving course, the straight-razor shaving course – that one is pretty busy. It’s sold out years in advance, and in there you’re just learning the basics of shaving, because shaving, just like haircuts, is all about practice.”

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Photo: Krijn Van Noordwijk, www.krijnvannoordwijk.com

As well as education, Bertus has done quite a bit of touring, including plans to come over to the UK for The Great British Barber Bash. He tells me, “The shops are about having fun. These tours are where we promote our brand. We try to make it a fun night when we are onstage, and have some laughs. It’s been great and we love the chance to travel. We’re going to Manchester and it’s going to be mayhem. After that, we’re heading to Mexico in what we call our Tequila Sunrise Tour. Then the west coast of America and then the east coast, and then further onwards to do some stuff in South America. Really, I’m just enjoying myself.” Schorem also has their own festival held in De Van Nelle Fabriek, the Scumbash. “We contacted some friends of ours that do a festival in Holland called Speed Fest, and asked them if they could help us out. They put us in touch with the guys that organized their festival and they loved the idea – then they said let’s get twenty bands. We threw a party and we ended up with three thousand rockers having a blast. Now, we’re throwing our party for the third time and it’s going

to be mayhem. If you love Rock ‘n’ Roll music, this is your party. There will be Madame de Pompadour for girl’s hair, Geoff David – we’ve even got barbers coming over from Japan. Frank Glorified and Joth from Savills Barbers are also coming from the U.K to party. It’s going to be fantastic.” And his advice to anyone out there looking to become a viable brand? “If I’m going to put it all in one sentence, it is to have fun and the money will come. Leen and I have had so many shops, and I got a huge ego. I know that, and I’ve tried so hard only to realize that we’re just not at that level. It was depressing, but that is why I started doing barbering: not to be the best, not to become famous. By letting all of that go, it happened, which is this whole shop. If I go inside the shop, and I see my team, which I took off the streets: losers, people said – now, I see them shining, and I love that. We did everything ourselves and I’m really proud of that, and proud that we did it for the sheer fun of it all.”

To keep up with what Bertus and Schorem have in the works or to check out some of their fantastic events, courses or products, you can go to their site at: http://schorembarbier.nl/. You can also follow them on Twitter @schorembarbier, or on Instagram at @schorembarbier as well as check out their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/Schorem. Trust me, you won’t want to miss a thing they’re doing at Schorem! For more information, you can email me at: info@larrythebarberman.com. I’d also like to invite you to check out more interviews, tutorials and content on my YouTube channel at: www.barbers.tv as well as following me on Instagram @larrythebarberman for other free barbering content.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 21


Dapper Dan Matt Clay

PRODUC T

Get yourself that messy look without the hassle of fighting to remove it at the end of the day. Dapper Dan Matt Clay is strong with a clean looking finish and is guaranteed to wash out at the end of the day. Easy to apply and easy to remove, that’s what we like.

Reuzel Grooming Tonic Long-lasting but natural feeling hold, formulated for thermal styling. Ideal for volume and lift, wet look or brushed through for a natural appearance. For all hair types.

£11.95 - www. dapperdanuk.com

£14.99 - www.reuzelpomade.com

OSMO® Elite Pomade™ A super hold, water soluble pomade that will help you perfect that pompadour or sharpen that quiff, OSMO’s new Elite Pomade has a fruity fragrance to get your hair smelling as good as it looks. Clean and tidy, you won’t be left with any sticky residue, just a fresh look.

Schorem Ten Signature Haircuts DVD If you can’t make it along to the scumbag barbers’ training courses, don’t worry. The guys at Schorem have released a DVD of ten of their classic haircuts and how to do them. It also includes a short documentary about their working class shop in the city of Rotterdam. £58 - www.reuzel.co.uk

£8.45 - www.osmo.uk.com

Barber Pro - Shave Mugs These shaving mugs from BARBER PRO come in four retro designs and are enamel coated for use in lathering shaving products. Alternatively, use their monochrome charms to serve your customers their morning cuppa or keep them coming back by using them in salon promotions and giveaways. With each mug coming in a distinctive gift box, they can’t be ignored. £7.45 - www.barberpro.com

Custom Belmont Bespoke Reuzel Barber Chair You want it, but you can’t have it! The guys at Custom Belmont have knocked it out of the park with this bespoke beauty for Reuzel. Specialising in luxury branding and professional restoration, this is just a sample of what their team of geniuses can create from any classic barber chair. Although you can’t get your hands on this one, drop them a line and see what one of a kind artwork they can dream up for you. £1,200 – www.custombelmont.co.uk

Oil Can Grooming Harking back to the days when men were men and beards were statements not fashion accessories, Oil Can Grooming’s two new fragranced beard oils offer a masculine option for beard care. Used daily on short or long beards to tame, strengthen and condition, they are also packed with natural conditioners to moisturise and protect the skin underneath. Pick Iron Horse for a Leather and Wild Raspberry scent or Blue Collar for hints of Spiced Tobacco and Mandarin, with both coming in vintage oil can style packaging. £24 - www.oilcangrooming.com

Editor’s ChoiceENVY 22 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


introducing new ™

a super hold, water soluble pomade for skyscraper pomps and slick backs with no sticky residue

grooming www.osmo.uk.com Cut & Styling by OSMOÂŽ Brand Ambassador Davie Walker


Native Shaping Paste

PRODUC T

Easily workable with a soft texture and a matte finish, Native Shaping Paste is all about giving you the option to rework and restyle throughout the day. For those of you with short to medium length hair this is the product to provide that smart and edgy look, from work to the pub. £12.50 – www.nativeproducts.co.uk

I.C.O.N - Mr. A Unique salon concept brand, I.C.O.N. has kicked off 2016 with the launch of Mr. A – a line-up of grooming essentials that fuse together classic men’s products with modern day ingredients. Mr. A comprises of six professional products, including Shampoo, Elixir, Clay Pomade, Translucent Pomade, Cream Pomade and Gelatin Gel. £39.40 – www.iconproducts.com

Apothecary Mogul Grease Pomade BarberNV were the first to get their hands on this product ahead of its launch at Pro Hair Live in Manchester and we can vouch that it’s a good ‘un. Petrolatum based, it’s a heavy strong hold perfect for anything from slick backs to side partings and can be reworked throughout the day. It takes its name from the process to speed up marshmallow production and is scented like our favourite fluffy sweets. £15 - www.apothecary87.co.uk

FIT Active Shampoo Designed to encourage growth while strengthening and thickening your hair, FIT Active Shampoo is more than your typical hair product. Packed to the brim with vitamins and caffeine to encourage healthy hair, it’s infused with ginger to aid scalp circulation and health. £15 – www.fitskincare.co.uk

Reuzel Pomade Scumbag From the iconic Schorem barbers in Rotterdam, the Reuzel brand’s reputation precedes it. Fortunately they live up to expectations with their new pomades. Like the guys who designed it, it’s no frills and no fuss. Comes in Red, Green, Pink, and Blue varieties to suit your hair type. £7.99-£35.99 – www.reuzel.co.uk

CNTRL Grooming Clay CNTRL Grooming may be the new kid on the block but they’ve burst onto the scene with their men’s range. Our favourite is the strong hold clay, easily reworkable and adds a nice thick feeling to your hair with a clean matt finish. £11.99 – www.cntrlgrooming.co.uk

StylingENVY 24 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


+44 (0) 1538714122

sales@dearbarber.co.uk

+44 (0) 7737668587

www.dearbarber.co.uk


PRODUC T LED barber Shop Sign

Wahl Detailer

Recreate the old school speakeasy vibe with this fantastic retro LED barber shop sign. Super bright and complete with hanging chains, it’s a vibrant talking point that can’t be ignored.

Wahl have improved on their classic detailer with this new version that comes with a t-blade 6mm wider than usual. As the blade can be adjusted for zero overlap, it’s ideal for super close trimming, outlines and detail work.

£85 – www.salonequipmentcentre.co.uk

£57.99 – www.salon-services.com

Andis Supra ZR Detachable Blade Clipper Versatile and powerful, this clipper leaves the wires at home while still providing the control and adaptability you’d expect from a corded tool. With five cutting speeds and interchangeable blades, you can achieve any cut on any hair type – wet or dry – with the Supra ZR. It comes with a CeramicEdge blade and is compatible with the entire line of Andis UltraEdge and CeramicEdge blades.

£240 – www.barberblades.co.uk

Inflated Ego Irons Easy to use and with adjustable heat settings, these irons from Ego Professional will help you deliver consistently good results – from simply straightening to creating amazing waves and curls. The tourmaline and HW2 infused ceramic plates give the ultimate in speed and smoothness. £109 – www.egoprofessional.com

ElectricalENVY 26 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Diva Pro - Genesis Digital Dryer With an argan, macadamia oil, and keratin infused grill, the Genesis Digital Dryer from Diva Professional Styling provides a kinder styling experience, helping to smooth flyaways and provide protection, while leaving your hair looking and feeling sleek and glossy. It has five adjustable heat and speed settings. £119.99 – www.mankind.co.uk

BaByliss PRO Super Motor Clipper With its supercharged, high-torque pivot motor, the Super Motor Clipper gives enough power to ensure effortless, high quality cutting through longer, thicker, and heavier hair. Ergonomically designed for better handling, it’s also an absolute beauty to look at – almost as stylish as the haircuts you’ll be using it on. £112.50 – www.babylisspro.co.uk


Ultimate Ultimate Ultimate Ultimate Ultimate Barbering Barbering Barbering Barbering Barbering Experience Experience Experience Experience Experience S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

S PSEPCSEIPA U CEILCAFILAEFLAT EFAT ER AT UERUER E

Work for yourself, but not by yourself. Work for yourself, but not by yourself. Work Work for for yourself, yourself, but but not not by by yourself. yourself. Work for yourself, but not by yourself.

TT TTT

he barbering world is • Barbers Box is fitted with stylish This year Barbers Box was invited starting to buzz with leather adjustable styling chairs to work as part of the VIP facilities excitement, with the and LED illuminated mirrors. backstage at the Isle of Wight festival launch of a new concept 2015, where weBarbers got toBox meet band he barbering world is starting • Barbers Box is fitted with stylish This year Barbers Box was invited to work he he barbering barbering world world • Barbers • Barbers is fitted is fitted with with stylish stylish This This This year year Barbers Box was was invited invited he barbering world is is is • Barbers BoxBox isBox fitted with stylish year Barbers Box was invited which is changing where • The walls are padded with fine members that were performing on as part of the VIP facilities backstage at to buzz with excitement, with leather adjustable styling chairs starting starting to buzz to with buzz with with leather leather adjustable adjustable styling styling chairs chairs to work to work as part asof part of the ofVIP the VIP VIP facilities facilities starting to buzz leather adjustable styling chairs to work as part the facilities the Isle of stage. 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PRODUC T BARBER PRO Post Shave Cooling Mask Cold towels are a thing of the past with the new BARBER PRO Post Shave Cooling Mask. Now you can nourish and hydrate your skin with this face and neck mask that’s infused with collagen to provide an anti-ageing treatment while you relax. As well as reducing redness and replenishing your skin, the residue acts as a moisturiser to give yourself a final facial massage. £3.50 - www.barberpro.com

Beard Bro Grooming Tool The Beard Bro is the ultimate grooming tool and it’s never been easier to shape your facial hair with precision and speed while maintaining symmetry. Use with clippers or a razor to achieve an accurate trim and crisp shave. The simple Beard Bro shape is specifically designed with your beard in mind and it offers a multitude of shaping choices and styling options.

Urban Tonic Beard Oil Northern Irish upstarts Urban Tonic have added Tequila and Strawberry & Mango to their range of masculine beard oils. Fortunately, the Tequila scent doesn’t contain actual alcohol as it prevents moisturisation and these oils also work to hydrate both skin and hair with a combination of vitamin A, grapeseed & sweet almond oil. Perfect for preventing irritation and scratching. £10 - www.urbantonic.co.uk

£19.99 – www.thebeardbro.co.uk

Murdock Marvellous Moustache Wax

Jack Dean Shaving System Give your face a full service with the new Jack Dean Shaving System. This isn’t a typical shave, this is a fourstep process that will leave you refreshed and reinvigorated without the irritation and redness you’re used to.

Apply, twist, and twizzle to add hold and style to your moustache with this quince-oakmoss scented, natural white beeswax. Holds your style all day long while remaining soft and malleable for reworking. £15 – www.murdocklondon.com

£5.84-£15.29 – www.ellisons.co.uk

Shaving, Beard & MoustacheENVY 28 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 29


PRODUC T

MENSPIRE Red & Black Precisioners Sleek and sharp, these 5.5 inch scissors are all about precision and accuracy. With their bold colours they wholly embody the MENSPIRE brand and are ideal for creating short fringes and detailing around the neck and hairline. £139 – www.menspireshop.bigcartel.com

MENSPIRE White 6” Scissors For creating flawless layers and adding that spark of imagination to a hair style you want these beautifully designed scissors. The perfect balance of weight and accuracy, MENSPIRE have again delivered in comfort and control. £159.99 – www.menspireshop.bigcartel.com

Sakura Japan ATB6035 Thinning Shears When a company’s motto is “we believe you deserve the best” you expect to get the best. And Sakura Japan have again delivered with these 35-teeth thinning shears. As always, they come with Sakura’s trade secret, the Convex Edge, to guarantee quality without causing damage to the hair. £165 – www.sakurashears.com

Matakki Gem Scissors Combining beauty and practicality is the hallmark of Matakki and their Gem scissors are no exception. Handmade from the finest Japanese Hitachi steel, they come with a lifetime guarantee and stunning pearlescent look. They’re a bold statement backed by Matakki quality. £200 – www.matakki.com

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Matakki – The Kuma Not one to rest on their laurels, Matakki have upgraded The Kuma to give an even better cut. Now with thicker blades and extended to seven inches, these super sharp scissors are more efficient than ever at leaving dead hair on the floor. Point cutting specialists. £365 – www.matakki.com

Scissors & ThinnersENVY 30 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


P RO DU C T

Kent Handmade 20T Pocket Folding Comb Bigger isn’t always better and you can’t beat the Kent Handmade 20T Pocket Folding comb for ease of use. Fits easily in your pocket and folds out into a sturdy bit of kit with the quality we’ve come to expect from Kent. Keeps your beard and moustache in great shape and only costs a tenner. £10 – www.thebeardemporium.com

Uppercut Deluxe Quiff Roller Add instant lift your quiff with this roller from Uppercut. It does exactly what it says on the tin to get your pompadour puffed up and looking sharp. The bristles are well spaced to prevent pulling and the non-slip grip allows for easy control. £10 - www.uppercutdeluxe.com

The Daimon Barber – Horn DoubleTooth Comb

Denman D4 9 Row Large Styling Brush The classics are the classics for a reason and you can’t go wrong with the original and best from Denman. For dealing with thicker, longer hair it’ll be your go-to brush for shaping during blow-drying.

Crafted by hand from natural cow horn, each of these double-tooth combs comes in a one-of-a-kind pattern so you’re guaranteed to stand out from the crowd. Ethically sourced and uniquely stylish, it’s a treat for the hair that won’t damage the follicles. £18 – www.thedaimonbarber.com

£10 – www.denmanbrush.com

Denman Grooming Carbon Comb Made with a carbon fibre additive that allows them to conduct static electricity, making them genuinely anti-static, the Denman Carbon comb is ideal for professional use. It features smooth, round-ended teeth which don’t scratch or damage the hair so you can use it for combing through conditioners or styling products. £7.68 – www.salonsdirect.com

Captain Fawcett - Wild Boar Brush Brushing ones beard with the Captain’s wild boar bristle brush will ensure your facial hair stays in shape and maintained in a truly tip top condition. When used regularly the naturally stiff bristles will stimulate the follicles that encourage hair growth and help keep your beard healthy & clean whilst adding a lustrous shine to your hirsute pride and joy. £15 - www.captainfawcett.com

Combs & BrushesENVY BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 31


PRODUC T

Savills Barbers For Life Apparel Savills new range of apparel features their iconic “Barber for Life” logo designed by US based tattoo flesh artist Quyen Dinh. Our favourite pieces are the lightweight waxed cotton apron and the luxury barber’s tool roll. Both ooze vintage sophistication and class that will just get better with age, so don’t be afraid to get them dirty.

Aubrey Styling Station Robust and rugged with a pristine finish, the Aubrey Styling Station is uncomplicated and timeless. The detailing hints at grandeur while the countertop is a durable and stainless workhorse. With a fully integrated ceramic wash basin and available in three natural wood veneer finishes.

£15 - £95 - www.savillsbarbers.com

£2,890 - www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

Maletti Barber Unit Sophisticated and smart, Maletti have designed a multi-purpose barber unit that would look at home in a high-end salon or cornershop barber. With multifunctional basin, ample counter space and plenty of storage options, it combines practicality with style. £1,760 www.maletti.co.uk

Wahl All-In-One Blade Wahl have combined their existing razor and texture attachment clipper into the All-in-One to create a blade that offers the versatility of three different cutting styles. From soft cuts and layered cuts to peel cuts and slice cuts, you can faster and more accurately accomplish the same styles as scissors while embracing your creativity. Fits a range of existing Wahl clippers. £47.99 – www.wahlstore.co.uk

REM Emperor GT Barber Chair Put your customers in the driver’s seat with this sporty new chair from REM. An update to the classic Emperor and on a chrome circular hydraulic base, it comes in a wide range of colours and fabrics. Evokes classic Italian performance cars in a salon quality chair. £1,150 - www.salonequipmentcentre.co.uk

Furniture & EquipmentENVY 32 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


E M P E R O R Unconventionally British

The Emperor Barbers Chair is designed and manufactured in Britain by REM. With 3 Year Warranty. Part of the REM Barbers Collection. sales@rem.co.uk

www.rem.co.uk

01282 619977


Chair Care How to make your chair last with Takara Belmont Barbers are very passionate about chairs. Not only are they integral to the comfort of the customer and the quality of their service experience, they define the look and style of a barbershop more than any other piece of equipment. They are often a showpiece and a talking point.

F

or 95 years, Takara Belmont has earned a global reputation for world-class chairs with iconic, timeless style and a build quality that delivers decades of performance. Chairs such as the Apollo 2 have defined barbershop design and transcended decades of changing interior fashions to remain in-style throughout. Like all prestige brands, a ‘Belmont’ chair is an investment, so how can you preserve your chair, protect your investment and ensure it remains pristine and functional for decades to come? BarberNV talks chair care with Takara Belmont’s National Sales Manager, Andre Dupratt.

UPKEEP “Daily TLC can go a long way to preserving the look of your chair,” Andre explains. “At the end of each day use a a soft duster to clean and remove hair from the chair. “It’s important not to use leather cleaner or agents that contain solvents or abrasives, as these can damage and degrade the upholstery fabric. Don’t use a brush or scourer; simply dust and, when you feel the chair needs a clean, use a mild detergent in water and give the chair an occasional wipe down.” Takara Belmont recommends daily inspections for stability and function and gives other valuable advice to help prolong the lifespan of your furniture. For more information, contact hairdressing@takara.co.uk call 020 7515 0333 or visit www.takarahairdressing.co.uk.

34 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

KEEP IT SLICK Chairs with a hydraulic base require regular lubrication. “First use the correct lubricant,” explains Andre. “Your dealer will recommend the right product and all you need to do is treat at the recommended intervals to optimise performance and extend the life of parts. We also recommend a service every 2-3 years to ensure your chair is wellmaintained.”

RESPECT IT! Your chairs are designed for a purpose and if you show them respect, they’ll respect you back! Keep chairs away from sharp objects, tools and implements and excessive heat sources including direct sunlight. “Each chair is a working product and our chairs are second-to-none in terms of build quality,” says Andre. “Just that little extra care and consideration will give you years of service and performance.”


BarberNV.

BARBER

LUK A CHITTY

a model barber An interview with Garry Spencer Words Laura Boyd

36 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


BarberNV.

BARBERNV BARBER OF THE MONTH This month’s BarberNV Barber of the Month is a name AND face you may recognise. Literally at the cutting edge of the industry, Luka Chitty is more in-demand than ever, as this talented 29-year-old continues to prove he’s at the top of his cutting game.

L

ike so many of us, Luka was an early start into the industry. At 14, he got his first Saturday job – not born out of a desire to cut hair necessarily, more to fund his love of motorbikes. He told us, “After a few weeks of searching for a job, my mum and I were walking past a salon called Hair Associates, and my mum said, ‘Why not work there?’” Let’s just say Luka’s response to the suggestion was less than favourable, but his mum persuaded him it would be a good option and a few weeks later, Luka was in the shop. He said, “The more I worked in this vibrant and exciting environment, the more I loved it. I was being told constantly how great I was with customers and that I should start my training. So, with that, to cut a long story short, I left school at 16, qualified at 18, won a number of competitions in London, did catwalks and fashion shoots, including work with Greek Vogue and Vivienne Westwood, but I still thought something was missing. I then took more of an interest in barbering. 14 years in the industry, 12 year cutting hair and 4 years purely in barbering… here I am.”

Luka has worked in Sandyman Chop Shop in Exeter for the past year but he’s currently putting his heart and soul into opening his own barber shop. “After 14 years in the industry, I think it’s about time I have a place I can call my own. I’ve been so lucky to work for some great shops, including No. 5 Dreamcuts and Sandyman, where I’ve gained so much experience in the running of a shop. Opening my own place excites me so much but I’m equally as nervous, however, I have great friends behind me supporting me, so that’s a real comfort.” It’s these friends and family that Luka credits with his success. “My inspiration comes from my amazingly talented friends: Matt Robinson, Carlos Collier, Frank Rimer, Baldy, Darren Jones, Ryan Cullen, Joe Rowley, Aaron Rogers, Pauly Harmer, Colin Petrie, Lorin Newcombe, PJ and Ben Martin, to name a few! “I am so lucky to be surrounded by such great

people and such great talent, but it’s not just my industry friends, it’s my family and friends. “Little Ash, who became a dad last year and is the kindest most loving friend I could wish for. Jimmer and Si Sharland, who inspire me to want a family, and Krausey, a fantastic husband, dad and hardest worker I know. Also, my parents are my best friends and are always so proud of what I do.” You may also recognise Luka from photographs as he models – something he admits he still isn’t sure how he got into, but a move which he enjoys and uses to his advantage for getting his barbering work recognised. “How any company wants me photographed in their stuff I will never know, but they do, and as hard as it is to shoot with me, I thoroughly enjoy it. I shoot a lot with friends i.e. Poochi Purtel, so I’m lucky. I’ve recently been ask to be “the face” of Love Sick London, which I’m so proud of. But to be honest, if having cool pics of me flying round social media keeps me busy, I’ll take it.” And who can blame him?

Luka is clearly a young man with big ambition, but he is also keen to ensure that his dedication to the business pays off in creating a happy home life. He told us: “To be honest, I’ve never been one to look to the future. I’ve always been a here and now guy, but a lot has changed in the last year or so. I recently turned 29. I’m way more business-minded and I’ve met an amazing girl, which for the first time ever has made me visualise success and building my own family, whilst securing a future for us. I really feel like I’m just getting to a stage in my life where I’m truly happy with my work and where I’m at in my private life, so, this is the time to share the knowledge I have with other aspiring barbers in any way possible.” And his advice to those looking to get into the industry? “Research. Find out as much as you can about the trade. It’s not just simply about picking up the clippers. You need love and passion to do this job and do it well.” When it comes to tools of the trade, Luka can’t live without his Andis fade masters, Andis t-liners and a carbon comb – a good base for any aspiring barbers out there to get their hands on. As Luka focuses on opening the doors on his new venture, he summed up his love for what he does by telling us, “I love what I do, day in, day out. And I love people. I really have the best job that’s not only fun but rewarding. I am blessed.” BarberNV look forward to paying Luka a visit when his new shop opens – we have a feeling this will be something special.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 37


BarbershopNV.

BARBERSHOP

An interview with Larry The Barber Man

BARBERTOWN

The family that barbers together, stays together. Larry the Barber Man sat down with Jon Bourne, the dapper owner of Barbertown in Worcester, to get insight into his personal journey, inspiration and perspective on the state of barbering.

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n the note of his origins, Jon tells me, “I grew up in a family of both hairdressing and barbering. My father is a barber, and he’s still barbering at the age of seventy-two. He spends three or four hours in the morning in my shop, looking after regular clients. As a kid, I used to spend time in his shop, emptying ashtrays, sweeping the floor – just generally helping out. My uncle had a successful ladies hairdressing salon in Malvern, and it did exceptionally well. I helped out there on Saturdays: neutralizing perms, sweeping floors, making coffees, folding towels. All the dead-end job stuff you might expect to do in a salon when you’re growing up.” Jon got his scrub apprenticeship work out of the way earlier than most! He goes on, “I left school with my parents asking me what I was going to do with my professional life. Someone offered me an apprenticeship in his salon, so I spent around eighteen months there at the age of sixteen. I started cutting hair after a few years and, being a lad, I naturally started cutting more lads’ hair. So, naturally, I decided barbering was the route for me.” Jon went on to join his father in his shop in 1990, shadowing some of the gents that worked for him. “I used to sit, watch, shadow, learn and pick their brains to pick up techniques and tips,” he smiles. “And it’s led me to where I am today. Twenty-seven years later, I’ve got two shops and loads of apprentices – it’s all good.” Just looking at Jon gives the impression of style. What sort of styles do they focus on at Barbertown? “We do a bit of everything, really. Personally, I work with young children all the way up to gents and often focus on cutting hair. We have regular customers that have been visiting for over twenty years, so we keep things broad.” As for styles that Jon typically won’t handle, he explains that he doesn’t do patterns in hair any longer. “I did plenty of that and I don’t do it anymore. Plus, if you want me to do it, it takes me an hour, and I’m going to

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charge them fifty or sixty pounds for that time. They don’t want to pay that price and that’s typically that.” Of course, the style isn’t just in his work. Asked about the process he went through to accomplish his look, Jon tells me that the barbershop has a good few years behind it. “Over that time, you just collect stuff,” he laughs. “I have a few old boys that come in and bring me things like shaving mugs, razors or even cabinets. I fill my shops with stuff that I like.” The stylistic choice behind the “Stay Sharp” logo is also an interesting anecdote. “Kids would come in and say, “Make me look sharp, Jon.” And then we’d fist bump at the end and I’d tell them to stay sharp. Eventually, we started using the phrase in hashtags and then we had it designed for t-shirts and it just sort of became a thing.” Jon explains, and then smiles, “I don’t get paid every time I say it, though. Sure wish I did.” With his new shop in Malvern, Jon explains that they are going to be sticking to their Barbertown formula. “It’s a very similar sized shop and it will be very similar to the others, I think. Keeping things uniform is key for what we are doing. It should be good.” Jon is also no stranger to the media. “A few weeks ago, I was on the radio, having a discussion on whether beards are still trendy or not – beards definitely are still on trend, by the way. Maybe a bit shorter, but they aren’t going anywhere. There is a bit of a culture when it comes to beards, and it’s great for us because they need trimming and looking after, so the hairier you are, the better!” Jon is actively involved with charity and has raised quite a bit of money. “There’s a local hospice that I’ve ran a couple of marathons for and raised just under £10,000. I go there if they require me to go to shave a young lad or cut his hair, or something for someone who isn’t very well. Also, I sponsor a couple of veterans’ football teams as well as a local school to do their football team – we play a bit of footy as well. Really, it’s about bringing the guys together.”


BarbershopNV.

Jon and I also discuss his involvement with the National Hairdressers’ Federation. “For me,” he explains, “it is a tool that I use. There’s legislation that you have to abide by, and being a barber I’m around my chair quite a bit, so it can be difficult to get information when I need it on the matter. Being a part of the NHF, I can get that information.” His perspective on how the lack of regulation is affecting the state of the barbering industry is one that every barber should take to heart. “Yeah, you open a barbershop and people would come in. You can make it look cool, have some flashy windows, and all the toys, and everything else. And you can have staff that you pay cash in hand and nobody would know and that’s wrong. We don’t need that in barbering.” Jon appreciates what the Barber Council does, but is not personally involved. Jon also started working with the company Hairbond some four years ago: “I started using Hairbond maybe about four years ago when it was a really young company and a good British brand, a premium brand. Last year I did a two haircuts for them at Barber Connect. I got to meet some of the other guys that work with them, like Chris Moon. I call him Geordie Barber, can’t hold his drink,” he laughs. Having been in barbering for twenty-seven years, Jon tells me that his greatest moment actually came at the end of a partnership. “I was in that partnership for what must have been ten years. We were successful, but the decision making was often tough because one of us wanted to do one thing and the other wanted to do another. When we broke the partnership, I suddenly got to sail my own ship and that was when Barbertown was born. It was the best decision I’ve ever made.” On the subject of social media, Jon personally feels that it plays its part in the growth of the business. “Right now, the barbering industry is cool, but really we aren’t doing different than before. Social media is the only thing that’s changed. It’s more a tool for sustainability than it is growth. It’s honestly gone a bit bonkers with how much negativity can be posted, even amongst all the positive feedback. As far as I’m concerned, the customer is king. Not social media.” Along with the opening of the new shop, there are many exciting things in the future for Barbertown. Jon tells me that he wants to start doing a few events where he puts on local bands as well as doing some work with the local colleges. Whatever comes, Jon assures that he’s going to keep fighting the good fight. I expect we’ll still be seeing him in shop when he’s seventy-two; like father, like son! For more information, you can email me at: info@larrythebarberman.com. I’d also like to invite you to check out more interviews, tutorials and content on my YouTube channel at: www.barbers.tv as well as following me on Instagram @larrythebarberman for other free barbering content.

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An interview with Laura Boyd

She’s the Barberverse blogger with big plans: meet our Female Barber of the Month, Lesley Macbain. Lesley knew she was destined for the world of hair styling when she used to spend hours playing with her big sister’s ‘Girls’ World’, from the age of seven. An interview with Laura Boyd

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s soon as she left school, she enrolled on an apprenticeship for hairdressing and was quickly looking after five stylists in a busy salon. But Lesley wasn’t quite fulfilled. She told us, “During the evenings, I attended barbering school and I instantly knew that gents’ hair was the way forward for me.” Lesley is so passionate about the industry, she created a barber shop in her house! “I have a little family friendly barbers underneath my house called MOJOS KIDS & GENTS barbers. We are situated in a little village in Birkdale, near to Southport, specialising in high fashion and the cutting of children’s hair. We have all the latest racing car seats for the kids and a DVD player at hand to keep the little ones entertained.” Lesley’s home conversion also boasts a salon at the back, which two girls run for her, offering hair, nails and tans. It’s quite the business! When not busy in her barber shop, Lesley is heavily involved in the barbering scene. She told us, “I was asked to attend the first Great British Barber Bash which was organised by Garry Spencer last April, in my home town of Southport. Sid Sottung, Alan Beak and Danny Robinson were on stage showcasing their barbering skills and I was immediately hooked! Since then I have attended all but one of the Barber Bashes, along with a lot of education and workshop days all around the country. “The industry has grown immensely, through social media, networking and events and we

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now have such a great platform for meeting up, showcasing skills and a good catch-up! It is now a very popular industry to be involved in and I’m proud to be a part of it.” Lesley also runs the highly popular Barberverse Blog. If you haven’t checked it out, you should. She explained, “Barberverse Blogger is a barbering networking page I run with a fellow barber called Christopher Coyle. It’s a group committed to helping and providing a platform to promote entrepreneurship within the barber industry through fellowship, positivity and creativity. We also run competitions and fellow barbers can freely promote their work or ask any related questions with regards to the industry. When I attend shows, I write up my evaluations, keeping our group up-to-date with the latest news.” Lesley and Christopher’s features and tips have helped many in the industry, especially when it comes to promoting equality. When asked about how female barbers are accepted in the barbering world, Lesley firmly told us, “Gender shouldn’t event come into it. It should be about skills, ability and attitude, but I am well aware that the ratio speaks for itself. When it comes down to opportunities, I know, and have had the pleasure to have worked with, some amazing female barbers over the years, and we are paving the way within this industry that’s for sure! “Social media and magazines like yourself that publish our work help a lot. It’s still a very male dominated industry... but not for long,” she laughed.


Lesley is certainly a woman on top of her game and she is proud to be both an ambassador and working towards a role in education. “I’m currently an ambassador for a product company called Hairbond. They are a passionate company who have created a global brand of the very best of hair care products on the market, which are very popular and endorsed by celebrities.” On the importance of education in the industry, she said, “Education is the key factor within any chosen career path as otherwise you will remain stagnant. Barbering is evolving by the day: new styles, techniques, colouring, perming, equipment – the list goes on. Education is knowledge and knowledge is the key ingredient to motivate you into wanting to improve your skills and improve your game and your customers will therefore benefit. It’s a win-win all round.” With her children now grown up and her skills

at seminars and events more in demand than ever, Lesley has big plans on the cards. With some exciting secret projects currently under her belt, Lesley’s name is being recognised globally and she is keen to pursue this, with a view to moving to California. Until then, she is happy to reflect on an incredible career so far, telling us: “The most amazing moment in my career so far has to be cutting hair on the platform at one of the biggest hair shows in the world - Salon international 2015 at the London Excel. “I also have several collaborations coming up this year with some of the top barbers in the country: Sindi Devitte, Jac Ludrow, Davie Walker, Kevin Vorley, Tom Chapman, The Hairbond Team, Chris Moon, Prins & Booth and Tony Copeland from the British Master Barbers in October. Busy but buzzing! I am living my dream.” BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 41


When you buy a beard oil from Mariner Jack, you aren’t just getting some liquid, you’re getting handpicked and hand mixed ingredients, lovingly and painstakingly created by husband and wife team, Dave and Nat Green.

mariner Jack Sets Sail

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hat goes for everything, from their beard oils and balms, to their soaps and beard wash, because for Mariner Jack the importance of quality is paramount. Based in Truro in Cornwall, Mariner Jack pride themselves on using local suppliers whenever possible – from their labels to the thick amber glassware the products come in, you know you’re getting quality goods from a friendly face. Having an internationally sold brand wasn’t what Dave was expecting when he decided to grow a beard a few years ago, only to find that most of the products on the shelves were substandard and, even worse for a visual person like Dave, bland and boring. That sparked a yearlong hunt to create his own and caused Dave to leave his job working in the artisan coffee trade to follow his passion full time. What he’s taken with him to Mariner Jack is the very essence of the Cornwall way of life – laid back, relaxed, approachable and friendly. Rather than one of the many faceless corporations that have sprouted up in recent years selling barber products, if you call the Mariner Jack shop you’ll get Dave or Nat on the phone and if you drop them an email it’ll be them with the quick reply. This is truly the ethos of Mariner Jack and one they extend to helping out other small business and growing with one another. It’s what got the company to where it is today and Dave has no intention of giving it up. He values the relationships he has fostered since starting, like with Paul Cowan from Rum Razor in Durham, one of his earliest backers and still a barber he works with regularly.

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Very much a man who believes that meeting with your partners and shaking their hands is better than sending an email, Dave is looking to spend more time travelling up and down the country meeting with the stockists who have helped Mariner Jack to grow and grow. It’s not the only travelling he’ll be doing this year as Mariner Jack are set to have their first ever stand at Barber Connect at the Celtic Manor in Wales, on the 26th-27th of June. With Darren Hayward of Gentleman & Rogues Club joining them to provide haircuts and beard trims, and the full range of Mariner Jack products available to purchase it’s set to be a cracker of an event. Everyone is welcome to come along and try the brand and feel the difference when you use a truly handmade product. To make it easier for barber shops to stock their products, the stand will also offer a starter kit for selling Mariner Jack items including the POS, stickers, and all of the products. For Dave it’s a chance to interact with as many

potential stockists as possible and show them the quality of his products compared to the current market. Mariner Jack will also be attending The Wessex Beardsmen’s 3rd Beard and Moustache Competition in Yeovil, Somerset on April 23rd, where they’ll be sponsoring prizes and have a stand open for trading. It’s a fun event that raises money for Children’s Hospice South West. Charity is core to the values of the company, as through their #goodbeard campaign they donate a percentage of all their profits to Mount Edgcumbe Hospice, an institution close to Dave’s heart. As the brand continues to grow, with recognition coming from as far afield as the USA, Dave is planning to head stateside and has been invited to attend the 2016 Great American Beard and Moustache Championship in Denver, Colorado and even hopes to bring Mariner Jack to the World Beard and Moustache Championships in Austin, Texas next year. Incredible plans for a small firm with a bright future, but it goes to show what can be achieved by sticking to your values and relying on quality to further your reputation. Even as Mariner Jack goes from strength to strength, Dave is adamant that they won’t make anything with machinery. He’s a firm believer that would take the heart out of the product and would rather hire more local people to expand the brand. Each piece of the Mariner Jack range takes time to make, but you can feel the benefits of that time in the quality of the product. BarberNV can vouch for that and we can’t wait to see what 2016 has in store for Dave and Nat!


MARINER JACK

fresh beard care from the heart of Cornwall Mariner Jack is an ever growing brand. We directly attribute this success to the amazing partnerships we have forged with like minded businesses and companies. By joining us and stocking Mariner Jack you can be assured that together, we can create an amazing customer experience with our products and your knowledge. Below are just some of the benefits you would receive from us... •

A generous trade discount. This allows you to really get the most from your investment with us.

Easy ordering via email, phone or a standard monthly/weekly order.

No mass produced, cheap products. Everything is made by hand using the finest ingredients to ensure quality.

Quality packaging. No ugly, plastic bottles. Heavy and thick amber glass that looks amazing in any space.

Quick and efficient UK delivery options and cheap Worldwide delivery.

Regular ‘shout outs’ and active marketing pushes to you via our growing Social Media platforms.

Full marketing materials including professionally printed stands, framed artwork, window clings, mirror stickers and more.

Inclusion in our fully interactive, postcode search or GPS location stockist map, driving more footfall to your stores.

Full support from email, phone or face to face if we can.

Complete reassurance that all our products have full EU Licencing and Cosmetic Product Safety Reports.

MarinerjackUK

@MarinerJack

@MarinerJackUK

07590 918 119

www.marinerjack.com

hello@marinerjack.com


Around the world in 320 days with the Nomad Barber

The Nomad Barber, Miguel Gutierrez, has many interesting stories about his ventures around the world. Fortunately for me, I had a chance to sit down with the international barber journalist to get his story. An interview with Larry the Barber Man

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iguel began his journey shortly after he left school at sixteen years of age. At the time, he was faced with a struggle many of us face after school - not knowing what he wanted to do with his career. With that in mind, he went to Connexions (the government’s young people’s support service) to see if they might offer some guidance. The man advising him mentioned barbering, and Miguel thought it might be a good trade to get in, referencing a friend’s father who had made a good life for himself. Miguel says he also liked the idea of not having to go to university. “I had a major problem concentrating,” he admits. So, his journey into barbering began in Liverpool shop Voodoo, which Miguel explains was more like a men’s salon. “We did a lot of colors. I just knew it wasn’t for me, so I moved on to Joe Cummings Men’s Hair, which was more of a traditional barbershop.” From there, the wanderlust began to kick in and Miguel headed for Australia for a bit before eventually returning to London. When it came to what would eventually become his world tours, Miguel knew he needed to

do more traveling before he opened his own shop. When he won the American Crew award, he found himself wanting to be a part of the barbering industry while still incorporating his desire to travel. He wanted to combine his love of documentaries, films, and photography with his own unique path in barbering. “At the beginning, everything was totally improvised,” Miguel tells me with a laugh. “From there, things just sort of fell into place.” Miguel’s photography has captured the hearts and interest of fans all over the world. Asked about how he picked up his camera skills, he answers, “I wound up doing a six week course on Gumtree with a lady. There, I learned how to shoot manually, arrange studio lighting, how to handle and hold the camera properly, how to use different lens, and all of that. I’ve been learning ever since.” His eventual aim is to build the Nomad Barber brand and create something more cinematic and stylized; something wholly new in the world of barbering. Miguel went on to open the Nomad Barber LDN, and has a second shop in its beginning stages in


Berlin. “We found a great opportunity there in that there wasn’t a lot of traditional men’s barbershops in the area. The guys here will be on rotation in the shop as well. We’re hoping it’s going to be fun,” he says with a smile. At present, Miguel spends two to three days on the floor in his London shop. “I used to be here almost all the time, but with everything else going on, my mind just wasn’t in it. I’d be here all day, knowing that I would be up at 2 or 3am uploading videos on my laptop. I wanted to have my mind fully on what I was doing, so I needed to cut down my time, for my health and to be fairer to my work.” Now, Miguel still sees his regular clients and evenly divides his time between his work in the shop and outside of it. The response to his videos and Instagram have been explosively positive. Beginning with the “Cosmic Barber” series - a rather eccentric gent who used healing energies in his barbering, as well as the owner of the strangest barbering technique Miguel’s yet seen - his YouTube channel has grown in subscribers. “I started my Instagram on 1st January, 2013. At first, I just followed a lot of barbers and interacted with them in various ways. After I won the American Crew award, it really helped kick start things – I started posting more pictures, and discovered more and more barbers. When I posted pictures of street barbers and their work from all over the world, it really started growing. I’d have people messaging me constantly when I was on my trips and asking when the new videos would be out. I don’t think they realise that we aren’t getting paid for the travel, and we’re pretty much editing on the train and taking overnight buses so we don’t have to pay for a hotel,” Miguel laughs. As a result of the popularity of his videos, he has had many different opportunities presented to him. “I get a lot of emails from brands or people

asking me to do education, events or to talk about their brands. If I’m going to be doing promotions, I want it to be for my own products. I don’t want to be a sellout.” He explains that he has something in the works, but is first trying to build up the brand so that his product line will premiere as he dictates. With so many different areas that Miguel travels, I ask him about the styles that stuck out in his mind from various barber cultures. He tells me that social media has been bringing a lot of Western styles to areas such as Singapore and India through pages like #BarbershopConnect. “A lot of the younger people have cuts like you would see here,” he explains. “You’ll see the occasional parted pompadour or skin fade, but it really is incredible how social media has brought these styles to areas that had been isolated from Western barbering before.” Naturally, I had to ask him what his favorite places to visit were. “I recently went to Mexico and Guatemala,” he tells me. “I loved being there. I think because I come from a Latin background it made it much more exciting to be there. India was fantastic as well. I loved the Middle East. I got to visit the northern parts of Iraq and it was just amazing up there. Honestly, it’s hard to pick just one place.” The varying barber cultures and techniques have become integrated into the services and décor at The Nomad Barber LDN. Miguel explains, “We like to keep to the simple things and offer the whole service. We offer massages at the end of shaves, inspired by how they practice shaving in India. I’m honestly fascinated by how they do shaves in India and Italy, and how fast and precise they are. It’s not necessarily the craziest thing you will ever see, but if you watch my videos you can see how fast they are. It really adds to the experience overall.” His most satisfying moments come from receiving emails from individuals inspired by his work. “It makes me realize the importance of what I’m doing. The downside is that there are so many people who are getting into barbering for the wrong reasons – they want an easy ride, but they aren’t willing to learn all aspects of the business. The barbering industry is getting better and better as people come together. It is unbelievable how respected it is in comparison to the past.” So, what does the Nomad Barber have planned for the future? “I’d like to travel, starting June, with one month on and the next off. I’m trying to make it to fifty countries visited by the end of the year. Italy, Brazil, Morocco, Japan, Korea, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, maybe back to Australia. Maybe Russia? Definitely the US. Other parts of South America, as well.” There is no doubt that The Nomad Barber brand will continue to grow, and that Miguel will continue to inspire barbers all across the world. For more information, you can email me at: info@larrythebarberman.com. I’d also like to invite you to check out more interviews, tutorials and content on my YouTube channel at: www.barbers.tv as well as following me on Instagram @larrythebarberman for other free barbering content.

His eventual aim is to build the Nomad Barber brand and create something more cinematic and stylized; something wholly new in the world of barbering BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 45


TRIBEGOALS COLLECTION Hair: Paul Mac Special Photography: Ricky Mangala Styling: Beyond Man Models: Vanity Vague Model Agency

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THE RUDE BOY COLLECTION Hair: Chris Foster Photography: Arteh Odjidja Styling: Remel Davidson Makeup: Sarah O’keefe

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AFTER WORK Hair: Borja Carbonell para Sal贸n Carlos Valiente. Photography: Esteban Roca

THE B & W COLLECTION Hair: Lynndy Rolfe Photography: www.livebythelens.com

AW 2015 Hair: Harry Green Photography:

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STRUCTURE COLLECTION Hair: Steve Rowbottom and Jody Toner, Westrow Academy Products: Sexy Hair Styling: Westrow Photography: Paul Gill

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RUDEBOY ROCK COLLECTION IMAGE 1 Hair: Dan Rix Photographer:

Jess Middlebrook Models: L-R Dec Broadfoot, Sonny Rix, Rory Bellamy, Dan Rix, Dan Schultz Styling: Dan Rix

IMAGE 2 Hair: Dan Rix Photographer: Jess

Middlebrook Model: Sonny Rix, Styling: Dan Rix (Finalist / Runner Up NHF photo hair collection 2015) (2nd Place NHF Red Rose Competition)

WHO DARES WINS Hair: Pat Barry Model: Blake Dunne Photographer: Diarmuid O’Donovan Styling: The Gentry

MASTER BARBERING Hair: Jac Ludlow Photography: Jordan Sullivan Make up: Megan Goodchild Model: Anthony Suminski 50 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


THE PALL MALL GENTLEMAN COLLECTION Hair: Marii Rosma Photography: Robin Baraj Styling: Suit Supply London Makeup: Pall Mall Barbers artistic team

ALTERNATIVE COLLECTION Hair: Dieuwertje Prins Photography: Dieuwertje Prins Styling: Dieuwertje Prins Model: Olaf Zuiderwijk

CLASSIC COLLECTION Hair: Dieuwertje Prins Photography: Aaron Lee Styling: Dieuwertje Prins Model: Adam Knagg BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 51


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By now you should have already started working on your summer body, so it’s time to turn your attention to getting that perfect summer hair.

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o get the lowdown on this season’s big styles, we spoke to Aileen Nunez, Andis’s International Manager of Education and Style Aileen Nunez, and Daren ‘Baldy’ Kenny and Kieron Price from Baldy’s Barbers in Aylesbury for their insights into the key trends for spring/summer 2016. The recent renaissance in barbering popularity has been rooted in the return of classic haircuts, and Baldy believes that’s set to continue. “Traditional styles for all ages will still be strong,” he says, “particularly pompadours, slick backs and side parts.” “For younger clients, the tousled, textured messy look will be prominent too. Teaming this with drop fades and surgical lines will be a huge trend for this season.” His fellow Andis educator Kieron agrees and offers some advice on the best equipment to use to get your desired results. “The Andis

US Pro Clipper and/or Fade Clipper achieve a smooth drop fade, while the Slimline Li Trimmer creates a clean surgical line. Using these tools in combination creates the perfect cut and precision trimming required for these styles.” When it comes to facial hair, Aileen believes smooth stubble will be the look of the season, predicting “clean-shaven faces will be bang on trend, while keeping general scruffiness to a minimum. Beards are not out of vogue, but there will be new variations on facial hair trends and Andis trimmers will help barbers deliver these looks. The new Pro Foil Lithium Shaver is a great tool in this aspect.” The return of the clean-shaven look may be a blessing for the baby-faces among us, but it’s encouraging to know that a good beard will never go out of style - we never complain about a new twist on a classic.

For younger clients, the tousled, textured messy look will be prominent too. Teaming this with drop fades and surgical lines will be a huge trend for this season 52 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


fudge professional team up with mazella & palmer

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ing First Class equisites to the und the world.

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ot scared to push the boundaries of art and hairdressing, Fudge Professional have collaborated with Mazella & Palmer to showcase a new collection of styles. Artwear takes its inspiration from conceptual 3D fashion, and blurs the lines between art, sculpture, and performance to come up with the new looks. Influenced by the work of artist Rebecca Horn and the way she extends and manipulates shapes using the body as a wearable sculpture, Mazella & Palmer ccombined a p t a iit nwith f athewclothes c e t tof .designers com such as Issey Miyake, Comme des Garcons, and Pierre Cardin. This particular collection focuses on the

Fudge Professional Headpaint colours and uses softer shapes and outlines, with flowing disconnected layers to give movement to the hair. John Vial, Creative Director at Fudge Professional, said, “If I was to describe the new collection in three words it would be: graphic, technical and rich.” It’s clear to see the effect of Fudge’s new Headpaint Oz Rocks Intense Reds colour pallet in the clean blondes and silvers, giving true tones and long lasting shine. Hair: Mazella & Palmer International Creative Team for Fudge Professional Photography: Elliott Morgan Products: Fudge Professional

FAWCETT BEARD & MOUSTACHE COMPETITION in association with Captain Fawcett, Sid Sottung & Banks Barbershop Get your hands on these great Captain Fawcett goodies by showing off your best #FawcettFaceFur. Send @barbernvmagazine your pics on Instagram and tag judges @sidsottungacademy, @banksbarbershopuk, @captainfawcett and the best one will claim the prize. Don’t forget the #FawcettFaceFur hashtag.

PRIZE: I am Captain Fawcett Leather Wash/Barbers Tool Bag along with a Ricki Hall Booze & Baccy Gift set that includes both a Ricki Hall Moustache Wax & Ricki Hall 50 ml Beard Oil and a Captain Fawcett T Shirt. Total retail value of over £150.00.

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J Get Your Products Out There With A Little Help From Bec In our last edition we spoke to John Wright from Salon Equipment Centre, on the launch of their new brand… Barber Equipment Centre. This month we wanted to find out more about their newly designed showrooms and how you can get your own products out there through BEC.

ohn explains, “Since we started selling barber equipment over 20 years ago, male grooming has grown drastically and people’s perceptions have changed. It’s not just in hair styles, but intriguing salon interiors and new grooming products designed by barbers themselves. Men now want more value for money, as they are paying more than ever these days for a haircut.” “There’s been a real change of environment for barber shops. Typically, small barber shops had plain walls and a waiting bench and you just waited in line until it was time for your hair cut. However, these days, décor is really alternative, people are straying away from the norm and we are seeing a huge variety from traditional designs, to modern and industrial themes. Barbers are looking to provide extra value by creating an atmosphere that keeps customers returning regularly. Some of our favourites are pool tables, motorcycles and computer games. Barber shops are there to provide escapism for men, like hairdressers do for women. They want to relax and be comfortable in their surroundings. With all this in mind we’ve created such atmospheres in our famous showroom.”BarberNV managed to get some inside photographs of one of BEC’s newly designed barber rooms and we are impressed to say the least! “We wanted to create rooms to help inspire barbers to get “the look” in their barber shop. We’ve gone that extra mile by making sure we also offer all the additional extras, not just the furniture! We have kitted the showrooms out with nostalgic merchandise including

metal signs, movie posters, personalised hanging signs and lots more, so barbers can buy everything under one roof.” “Our showrooms are constantly evolving with new exciting designs and products, like the Legion barber chair and the redesigned Bronx barber unit in oak, now at almost half the original price! So we always have something new happening every month” Sounds great, what else is BEC up to? “We’re helping small companies who’ve developed their own brand of grooming products for moustaches, hair or beards – who don’t have the capacity to get their products in front of the masses. “We wanted to give these smaller companies access to promote their products on our large data base, in our showroom and on our web site …for just a small charge. “It’s great for them, we have data of thousands of barbers…they have a great product…we just bring them together. “There are some great unknown brands out there, like Sticky Toffee beard oil from Fuzz Muzzle. “So if anyone has similar gems waiting to be unleashed on their fellow barbers, just ring Cassie. Or pop along and see us, we’d love to meet you and see your product.” Sounds a great opportunity for small businesses! We love that you are helping support the barbering community. “Yes, we only sell furniture and equipment, but we’ve now dedicated areas in our showroom and website solely to help small businesses get their product out there.”

Barbers are looking to provide extra value by creating an atmosphere that keeps customers returning regularly 54 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


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ass he ld.

CAPTAIN FAWCETT An interview with Laura Boyd

BarberNV have the privilege of speaking to some incredibly interesting and colourful characters who make up the barbering world; however, Captain Fawcett’s tale of how he became involved in this industry, his brand and what they sell and are involved in, is truly fascinating. 56 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Photographs www.iaincrockart.com

w w w . c a p ta i n f aw c e t t . c o m


Keeping a stiff upper lip, regardless...

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e could write a book on the subject, but thankfully he’s already doing that (more on that later), so let us give you an insight into the wonderful world of Captain

Fawcett. Sadly, the Captain himself was missing in action, apparently off visiting his poorly mother in Blackpool – the glamour – but he sent along his equally dapper and charming right hand man, Richie Finney, to fill us in. Richie revealed that the Captain’s foray into barber products reads like a movie script – literally! Working at the top of his game in the film and television world as a boom operator, on the likes of Memphis Belle, Chaplin and Billy Elliot, he developed a moustache wax to tame his own facial fuzz. Married to one of the country’s most well-known hair & make-up artists, it wasn’t long before the Captain’s high quality patent pomade was being used on the set of some of our favourite dramas. The wax proved so popular that actors and crew were soon requesting tubs to take home. The Captain purchased 100 jars for a tenner to decant his product into and didn’t expect this to be any more than an opportunity to share his creation with family and friends. Little did he know Captain Fawcett’s beard products would soon be in-demand across the globe. Why? In a world where there are many brands jumping on the beard oil/moustache wax/male grooming band wagon, and rightfully so, Captain Fawcett truly does offer something different. The oils, waxes and fragrances are all blended in-house, specially devised to ensure the best quality products are used and that there is a true sense of quality to the end product.

Richie told us, “It is not enough to focus on fancy packaging and presentation. We first and foremost ensure that Captain Fawcett’s products deliver on results. There is no point in making something look beautiful if it doesn’t live up to expectations when you open the lid.” The Captain Fawcett brand is inspired by a previous era, with an encyclopaedic knowledge of barbering practices, products and design making for something that truly stands out from the crowd, which oozes quality. “We’re fascinated by the history of barber shops and products. “We have travelled to barber shops across the globe to take inspiration from their traditions. One thing that always amazes us is the barber ‘wall’. Almost every shop has a wall that features photographs, imagery or memorabilia that is important to the barbers and inspires them. “Whether that be pictures of their family, friends, favourite football team or religious artefacts; there is something very personal about stepping into a barber shop and we take inspiration from that. “The relationship between a customer and their barber is also a very personal one and we aim to ensure our products embody that sense of familiar & reassuring touch.” Everything in the Captain Fawcett arsenal, which ranges from beard balms to finest hand crafted razors, offers something special where you know every detail has been carefully researched and considered. An example of this is the moustache guard cup. Far

from a gimmick, this is something which was widely used in the Edwardian era. The Captain collects originals but turned to a friend who studied ceramics at the Royal College of Art to create a more contemporary cup, which now retails at £25 and has proved extremely popular. The passion for the history of the barbering will soon be shared via more than just products. Captain Fawcett has been commissioned to write a book on the history of male grooming. It’s due out in April next year and we know this is going to be a fascinating read. So just how has the Captain Fawcett brand grown since launch six years ago? As well as a successful website, www.captainfawcett. com, the Captain Fawcett range is sold in an array of quality barber shops, chemists, tailors, hatters, tattooists and gift shops. To top it all, Fawcett attends an incredible range of events and festivals across the globe, appearing at everything from tattoo and steampunk conventions, to barber events, spectacles like the Goodwood Festival of Speed and a whole host of beard and moustache championships. They are also involved with Velo Vintage Bicycle Rides, the Distinguished Gentlemen’s Motorcycle Ride and sponsor and support a range of activities that embody the Captain’s spirit of ‘derring do!’ This includes backing a 1963 Saab that competed in the recent Historic Monte Carlo Rallye, supporting Si and Llel Pavey in the Paris Dakar and the four gals ‘Row like a Girl’ who have just successfully rowed across the Atlantic. Richie noted, “They obviously don’t have facial hair but they do embody the Captain Fawcett mantra of – ‘keeping a stiff upper lip, regardless.’ The Captain Fawcett story and his range of ‘Simply First Class Gentlemen’s Grooming Requisites’ is fascinating, exciting and something you want to know more about. You never know where the brand will pop up next, or what they will do and produce, but you know there will be a story behind it and rest assured it’s going to be something special.

The Captain Fawcett brand is inspired by a previous era, with an encyclopaedic knowledge of barbering practices, products and design making for something that truly stands out from the crowd, which oozes quality. BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 57


Liz McKeon

BusinessNV.

EVERYONE IS A SALES PERSON!

Each of us is in the business of selling every single day.

T

he important question with regard to selling is whether or not you are good at it. All day, every day, during the course of your working activities, you are continually negotiating, communicating, persuading, influencing, and trying to get people to cooperate with you to do the things you want them to do. If you are good at sales, it means that you will be an agent of influence and you will be constantly influencing and persuading others in the direction you want them to go. All top entrepreneurs are excellent low-key sales people. Excellent employees are very effective at getting their bosses to do things and getting their coworkers to go along with them and cooperate in getting the job done. Everyone who is effective in virtually any area of life that involves other people is an excellent sales person of some kind. Your job is to become very, very good at selling. Your key sales people, as opposed to barbers, are the movers and shakers in your business. They are the key people who create the demand for all the products and services that keep everyone employed in your business. Everything is sales! Businesses rise and fall based on whether or not they are capable of selling sufficient quantities of their services and products at sufficient prices in competitive markets. In fact, since everyone is emotional, people tend to buy based on how they anticipate feeling as a result of owning and enjoying a particular product or service. They look forward

to the feeling they expect to enjoy, and they make their decision based on whether or not that feeling is more valuable to them than the money they will have to part with, or than something else they could buy with the same amount of money. Remember, people buy solutions to their problems, not products or services. As a barber and a sales person, you are a problem finder, rather than a vendor. The more you focus on the client’s problem and the solution that you can offer, the higher your sales will be. The bigger the problem, the bigger the potential sale. Start to ask powerful questions, such as, “How much is that problem costing you?” or “What other things does it affect in your work or personal life?” Help the client to identify not only the obvious and direct costs, but also the not so obvious and indirect costs. One of the deepest subconscious needs of all people is the need for self-esteem - feeling valuable, important and worthwhile. If you can find out what your client needs to do to increase their self-esteem and then show them by using your products and services, they will feel better and earn the approval and appreciation of the people around them. The result is they will often be highly motivated to buy what you are selling. Your job is also to uncover dissatisfaction or to create one. Very often new clients will say things like “I’m not interested” or “I can’t afford it.” These are normal and natural reactions. No one likes change. But all this means that the client has not yet learned that there is a slight gap between where they are and the benefits of using your products and services. Your job is to describe an even

greater satisfaction that they could enjoy if they did something different. You

must

be

positive,

patient,

and

persistent. Don’t let the initial sales resistance or rejection of a client affect you. One of the

best questions you can ask in dealing with a complacent prospect is “Were you aware...?”

Very often the client is uninterested because they are not aware of how much better off they could be with what it is you are selling.

The person who asks questions has control.

Good salespeople are always thinking about the working of their questions, rewriting them and practicing them regularly before they go face to face with the client.

Position yourself to influence and persuade

the prospect by showing him how your

products and services just happen to be the ideal way to solve their problems and satisfy a need. Taking this low pressure approach

to getting clients to work with you, they will then happily buy from you with pleasure and

recommend you to their friends. They will

feel like they are being helped to improve their lives rather than being pressured into buying something that they may not want or need. Selling is a learned skill The wonderful thing about selling is that it is a learned skill. By continuing to practise finding problems that your creative ideas,

products, and services can solve, you can become better and more effective, not just at

selling, but in everything you do and with everyone you meet.

Liz McKeon is a successful Business Coach and Trainer specialising in the Industry. For details about upcoming events, workshops and online courses, please check out www.lizmckeon.com or call 0035318928007.


BusinessNV.

KEVIN HAMM: TRAINING If you had to have an operation and you were seen by two surgeons; one highly qualified, and the other who likes the idea of cutting people up and has watched a few movies on ‘do it yourself surgery’, which of these would you choose?

E

ven if the unqualified one said they would do it for free? You still wouldn’t do it. So why do so many business owners not recognize the importance of employee training? As a trainer I always encourage my accounts to develop their business and their employees. Training your staff will add numerous benefits - including increased turnover.

Product training sessions: Remember, most of the manufacturers offer this as part of their package, and the cost is usually built into the cost of what you pay for the product. As long as you spend to their target you will receive product knowledge training. If this is the case, all members of staff should attend - including the owner, receptionist or even a business partner. Not attending sometimes sends out the wrong message to staff.

Why should you invest in training? • To increase services

• To improve services • To increase staff ability • To motivate staff • To reduce staff turnover

• To increase job satisfaction • To increase company image • To increase turnover and profits

In any business, training can be a huge investment; not just in course costs, but also costs of staff attendance. Do not conduct training sessions for the sake of it. Identify your training needs in advance and on a regular basis thereafter. • • •

Communication Courses: This can be a very beneficial course, training the staff in the best ways of communicating with customers.

• To gain knowledge

Look at the business strong points - but more importantly its weak areas. Consult the staff – ask them the areas where they feel they may need help. Decide which new skills could take your business forward

Create a training programme - identify what you want to achieve, and inform staff of the learning and development plans, as not all training may involve sending staff on a course. Look at what skills other members of staff may have and use them. You should calculate the return on the investment and maximise the returns. If it is a course for just one member of staff, you could potentially run a staff promotion. This should not be “who retails the most?” or “whoever takes the most?” You will tend to find that the same person wins – the busiest person in the salon. To make it fair, run it on a pence per client basis, thus making it equal for full, part and junior members of your team.

In addition, explain that whoever wins will present what they have learnt on their return at a staff meeting or on a staff training evening. This will maximise the number of team members that will benefit from the training session attended.

Management: Always think on the positive side. You should never dismiss learning something new as complacency is the first cause of a business failing. As a manager/owner you are expected to have many roles, from HR, marketing, business development, and accounting, to name a few.

Train the trainer: If you have a larger staff number it may be worth sending a member of staff on a ‘train the trainer’ course, as there is a skill attached to the ability of being able to successfully present.

Barbering Courses: This can be a great way of motivating your staff, however, it is one of the areas where what has been learnt is not necessarily put into practice! Although there are some great creative trainers out there, very few offer a communication session within their courses. Sid Sottung recognised this essential need, that to get the most out of the creative sessions communication would be key, and has therefore built this element into some of his bespoke courses.

Sales Courses: Most of the product manufacturers will be able to assist you with this, however, they tend to teach sales techniques, and, from my personal experience, staff as a general rule do not enjoy selling so they inevitably give up. Calculate the increase in business directly from the training. In-house training: Some of the staff may benefit from in-house training, so it may be useful to ask a member of staff who already has those skills to share them with other members within the team. I would always recommend that you reward that member of staff in some form or other. On Premises training: If you are thinking of sending some team members on a barbering course, it may be more economical for them to come to you and invite all staff to attend. Specialist training: Usually held at training academies. Shows and seminars: A great way of motivating staff and to see what’s going on in the industry. Online/DVD training: Has its place but can be quite limiting. Can be beneficial in some cases. One reason businesses often neglect to train employees is because of past training experiences. Sometimes the training was conducted poorly, or the topics just did not help. Failed training comes at a high cost and businesses often don’t want to take that risk. However, not training your employees also comes at a cost.

For more information contact Kevin Hamm, Salon Development Training on tel 07533 004 956 or email kevinhamm00@gmail.com. BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 59


BusinessNV.

APPY BARBERS The recent launch of Shortcuts’ MyBarberapp has upped the stakes in client communications, putting a direct link between barber and client in the palm of the client’s hand. Overnight, the problem of mobile-friendly websites is solved with the minimum of cost and hassle.

TO JOIN, OR NOT TO JOIN, THAT IS THE QUESTION!

I am often asked by students and barbers alike, “Are you a member of any group? Is it worth registering as a state registered barber, and does it help progress your career and money?”

R

esearch shows that if a smartphone user must wait, or pinch and plod through a cumbersome website, they’ll switch off and never come back. But give them the option of uploading an app with instant access and they’ll play ball. For recently opened Harry Antony Barbers, one of the first shops to adopt the app, it has quickly become the first-choice contact for nearly half its clientele. Located on the first floor, Harry Anthony faced the challenge of being a young business trying to attract male clients without a shop front. The answer has been technology. “We do a hybrid of appointments and walk-in, but it can have its drawbacks,” explains Maria Doran, owner of Harry Antony. “Men don’t want to hang around, nor do they want to plan ahead. If they are waiting and suddenly someone turns up who has an appointment, meaning even more wait time, they might get a bit resentful. It’s not a good way to build a loyal clientele. Technology enables us to juggle appointments and walk-ins smoothly.” The app provides a direct link to Harry Antony’s electronic waitboard and check-in system. Instead of climbing the stairs to sit and wait, clients are using the app to check wait times and, if there is a queue, book out a slot that suits them for later in the day. Even when they choose to wait, sipping on a beer or coffee, they know exactly when their barber will be free to do their hair. But it’s not just convenience for barbers that will drive app technology; Shortcuts’ MyBarberapp provides a direct link to social media, with every post churning more traffic towards the app and barbers’ client management systems. Updates keep the brand to the forefront of clients’ minds, and help to fill up quiet periods by offering instant specials. For male clients, the app is perfect. They can link directly with their favourite barber without hassle and without ever having to pick up the phone. www.shortcuts.co.uk

Su Clark was previously a beauty journalist and editor and is now creative director at hair and beauty PR specialist Cocoroco Communications. www.cococoms.com 60 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

G

roup membership for organisations such as British Master Barbers, The Men’s Hairdressing Federation and the British Barbers’ Association is a very personal thing. It is worth checking out all of these groups to see what is going on in the frantic world of barbering and seeing if they have any events in your area that are beneficial to yourself. I personally choose not to subscribe to any groups but always keep an eye on what is going on and check out their Instagram pages and admire their work within the field. Often groups will help promote your work or advise on skills and techniques so I would recommend that any student or anyone new to barbering look at what artistic teams such as The Young Feds and B.O.M.B squad are doing and reach out to them with any questions they may have. To summarise, think what you’re going to get from subscribing. Have a look at what the groups offer and then go for the best one for you. There is no real benefit from being subscribed to every group there is but there are benefits from checking out what they are doing to see if that can benefit you and your team.

Get registered?

Since 1964 there has been a hairdressing council. The objective of the council is to regulate the hairdressing industry. In 2014 a barber council was formed to run in conjunction with the hairdressing council to regulate barbershops across the UK. This has caused a bit of a stir on social media forums as people are really not sure how this will impact their businesses and if it will affect the way we trade. In my opinion I believe the best thing to do is wait. There are many shows this year where representatives are going to be talking about the benefits of becoming registered and what this will do to our great industry. The council started over 40 years ago so there is no rush to act. I would suggest everyone takes a look at the website and then jots down any questions or concerns. Then email the questions to the council directly or ask them at one of the many events.

For more information contact Daniel Davies, General Manager of Pall Mall Barbers at dan@pallmallbarbers.com


BusinessNV.

When it comes to protecting your business, everyone understands the risks of theft, flood, fire, and property damage. However, when it comes to professionals risks such as Public Liability and Professional Indemnity there is often confusion as to which cover is suitable to your business practices and in some cases both covers should be taken out.

T

o help you understand what each cover provides we are here to offer some guidance. To start with, what does the term professional mean? The word professional applies to a person who offers specialist advice or a service. If a person provides advice or a service to another and carries that work out negligently, they can be held legally liable for the consequences. The key differences between the two covers is based on the nature of the work that you carry out. Public Liability – This protects your business against the financial risk for death, bodily injury or damage to property suffered by any third party, including members of the general public or other business you work with. For example, imagine a customer slips on loose hair on the floor and twists their knee, requiring surgery and months of physiotherapy. However, Public Liability is not a compulsory requirement for most businesses and not having this cover would not prevent a customer from making a financial claim on your business. This is why it is often recommended

that Public Liability cover is taken for risks that involve contact with the general public and other businesses. By having this cover in the event of an incident, your Insurers have experts on hand to deal solely with the claimant, leaving you to carry on doing what you do best - being a barber. Professional Indemnity Insurance… What is it and do you really need yet another insurance cover? If you provide barber training, teaching or tutoring, which you may provide at a barber shop or externally through colleges, workshops or other learning facilities, then you are giving advice which could lead to a claim and we would therefore recommend taking out Professional Indemnity insurance. Let us explain. You may feel confident in your work, but any barber is vulnerable to claims of negligence. Professional Indemnity cover protects you if you have to pay compensation to your clients because of a mistake in advice causing them a financial loss. It can also cover you for misinterpretation of your advice given when you may not have made a mistake at all. Just the terms ‘Legal Costs’ and ‘Compensation

Payment’ is enough to send a shudder down the spine of most people and these are the main costs that Professional Indemnity insurance is designed to protect against. You may ask the question “do I really need it?” and in truth, we really hope that you never do because any financial claim being made against will be a difficult experience. But if it does happen to you and you don’t have cover in place then the costs of appointing a solicitor to defend you, along with the costs of the financial settlement, can easily spiral out of control and has the potential to cause financial ruin. We aren’t just saying this to scare you, it’s our job as specialist barber insurance brokers to make our clients aware of potential risks and offer suitable insurance protection. Now may be a good time to review your barber insurance covers and premium competitiveness. Slade Edwards Insurance offers specialist barber insurance packages for both individual barbers and barber shops, so you will have peace of mind of knowing that your insurance covers have been put together and recommended with your business in mind.

For a quotation, contact one of our barber insurance specialists: 01403 250606 (Option 3) / barbers@sladeedwards.co.uk / @insurebarber BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 61


Words Dr Nestor and Editor-in-chief Andrew Brewster

Men. BOTOX. Why? Why not?

It’s time to discuss that taboo subject of men and Botox. The number of men receiving Botox injections has sky rocketed exponentially. 10% of the Cosmetic Medical market is made up of men, compared to 2% only 5 years ago. That’s millions of male clients around the world all looking to improve their appearance in a natural, healthy way.

A

recent survey found that the two main reasons men sought treatments was to appear youthful and less stressed in the work place for career progression and to attract a partner. Men are often deterred from treatments such as Botox, dermal fillers or skin care as they are viewed as ‘cosmetic’ or vain. Well lads, this couldn’t be further from the truth. Terms like ‘metrosexual’ or ‘uber-sexual’ have been thrown about. At the end of the day, we all want to look good and take pride in our appearance. Our aim should always be to look like us, but a healthier, more chiseled version and if the odd procedure can help us achieve that, well, as the headline suggests, why not? Men’s faces age differently to our female counterparts and our treatments should reflect this. Lines ingrained in our foreheads and around the eyes can be distinguishing, however softened give us a less tired appearance. This can be achieved with Botox. Volume loss from our cheeks can make us look gaunt and unhealthy. Naturally filling this deficit can give a more healthy, chiselled appearance. Aesthetic treatments do not solely revolve around Botox and dermal fillers, they revolve around you and your concerns. Botox is a word kicked about quite flippantly. What is it? What does it do? Who can administer it? Who is it for? First, some facts and a touch of history. Botox is the brand name of a drug made from botulinum toxin. Several companies make a version of this drug. They vary on how long they

62 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

2 Hours After Treatment

“I’m actually really happy with how it looks. I feel fresher and a bit more like my old self. Nestor has helped eliminate some of the consequences of late nights in the office putting together BarberNV features and my partying days”.


last, how far they spread, what kind of results they give and their cost. I’m not saying one is better than the other, I’m just saying, strictly speaking there is only one Botox, which is made by a company called Allergan. It’s like saying “hoover” and referring to all vacuum cleaners. They’re not all the same. Ask Dyson. Botox has been used medically for just over 60 years. Interestingly, it is the most researched drug on the world…ever! So it’s safe (in the right hands and when used correctly of course). Now that that is cleared up, what does it do and how does it do it? Let’s touch on a bit of anatomy. The brain sends branches of nerves to muscles which in turn send a signal to make that muscle work. Botulinum toxin stops this signal from jumping from the nerve to the muscle. As a result no movement. Botox has been used cosmetically for 26 years. It has been used on and off label in the upper third of the face for getting rid of our “angry scowl”, “crow’s feet”, forehead lines and in the most recent years has been used in the lower half of the face for “gummy smile” and “orange peel chin”. Wherever used, the reason is the same… to stop or weaken movement. If we can reduce how much the muscle moves, then we can reduce how much the skin over it will wrinkle. See where I’m going with this? No more wrinkles! If we start taking the wrinkles away we start to look that bit fresher and more youthful. Just ask BarberNV’s Editor, Andrew Brewster. Andrew, like so many, was wary of having procedures for fear of ending up looking like some of those in the public eye who have taken it a step (or twenty) too far. We won’t mention any names… That’s not what it’s about. You should simply look like you, but on a good day! He was also worried about what his football loving mates would think but let me tell you, there are more than your fair share of footballers out there now who are no stranger to a spot of Botox or, as we know, a hair transplant. So, Andrew decided to go for it, beginning with Botox. The result? “I’m actually really happy with how it looks. I feel fresher and a bit more like my old self. Nestor has helped eliminate some of the consequences of late nights in the office putting together BarberNV features and my partying days. “Nobody has looked at me in shock! The only comments I’ve had have been ‘you’re looking good mate’. Must be doing something right as that’s rare amongst my pals, I can tell you!” So, happy with the results, Andrew is now ready to embrace more procedures in the name of BarberNV, with fillers and a possible hair transplant on the cards. Well, if it’s good enough for Wayne Rooney… While the demand from male clients for cosmetic procedures is set to increase, it’s important if you’re considering incorporating these into your barber Shop or workplace that you know the facts. Who can prescribe and administer Botox? Botox and all such drugs are prescription only medications. This means that only a doctor, nurse prescriber or dentist can assess a patient and prescribe it. Not only are they the only ones who can prescribe it, but they are the only ones that have access to it. If it’s not coming from them, it’s not the real deal. Who is it for? There isn’t really an age restriction on when to get treatment, but if we

understand why we are using it, then we can appreciate at what age it’s acceptable to start. If our aim is to soften the stubborn lines that have become engrained in our skin from repetitive movement (static lines), then wrinkle relaxing treatments should really start in our late 20s, early 30s. I’m not saying it has to start then, but this is an acceptable time. There is no good reason to start treatment before these static lines appear. Unfortunately we live a country where the weather is miserable and the sun is something we only read about in holiday brochures, so many flock to sun-beds. Sun-beds speed up our skins ageing process and I have seen static lines in girls as young as 19. Not good. Wrinkle relaxing treatments will last 3-5 months, and to sustain the result, will require to be done again and again and again. The later you start the longer you will need to get it for to Before Treatment

achieve your desired result. Botox and dermal fillers shouldn’t be abused. Our end goal shouldn’t be “plastic fantastic”. It’s about looking good, looking great. NATURALLY great. As humans, we are gifted with emotion and facial expression of these emotions, whether we’re laughing, smiling, engaged in conversation or just annoyed. As a cosmetic doctor, and I’m sure most of my colleagues will agree, our aim is to airbrush out the lines that come from years of facial movement, restore some youthful volume in areas that have lost it, improve the quality of your skin, and all around, get you to look like you, on your best day. It’s when practitioner and patient lose the path of a natural result and aim for unrealistic “20 years younger” that we end up with horrifying results. 7 Days After Treatment

If you have a question for Dr Nestor about wrinkle relaxing treatments, dermal fillers, skin health, how to responsibly provide treatments by a Doctor, Nurse or dentist in your place of work, or anything else in Cosmetic Medicine send him an e-mail at contact@salonnv.co.uk

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 63


The Master Barbers.

Robert Rix Words f rom the Wise Usually I need to sit and think for a while before hitting on the subject to write about for this column; not the case this month though, as there has been all too much happening for us at The Master Barber’s Shop. Robert Rix, SHR SRSB MCH MCB

64 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE


W

ith the end of the competition season being marked by the Red Rose Championships in Warrington, my judging duties for the NHF could be set aside for another year just in time to buckle down and concentrate on the hectic run up to Christmas and making some money. Christmas is always a busy time but for our business it’s doubly so as we see a marked rise in trade and, particularly for us, in retail product sales. This is something we concentrate on and work really hard at. It’s surprising how you can boost turnover with just a little effort in learning about products and making a capital commitment to good quality stock. What has made this Christmas harder than usual was the time we have had to devote to opening our new barber shop. Earlier in the year Dan (my son) and I took the decision to grow the business and we intended to do this by opening a second shop. We identified a suitable unit and made an offer on it that was accepted. Lawyers were instructed and we sat back and waited for things to happen. And we waited, and waited, and, you guessed it, we waited. Time seemed to just drift by week after week with little or no headway being made. The stumbling block was apparently the fact that the property was being marketed as ‘to let’ by the then current tenant, without the full knowledge or permission of the superior landlord. Now remember we are talking here about a prime city centre location. So the superior landlord asked for £25,000 signing fee to allow the current tenant to transfer the existing portion of the lease to us. Needless to say, neither the current tenant nor ourselves relished the thought of coughing up 25 grand so the deal eventually collapsed. Having suffered that set back to our expansion plans, we thought things through and decided that it may be a better proposition to simply go for a bigger unit in the same town rather than divide our workforce between 2 shops in different towns. Accordingly, we turned our sights onto a large property that had been previously occupied by a national clothing retailer. The location could not have been better as it was directly opposite our current shop. If we were to move into that property we would effectively quintuple our work space and retail area. We approached our existing landlord and asked if they would consider letting us break our current tenancy if we took on the bigger adjacent unit. The property was just a bare shell, due to the fact that after the previous menswear tenant had left, the landlord’s team of workmen had been in and completely stripped out the unit. We realised that we would have to put all the commercial infrastructure back in to make it a viable working unit; but we went into it with our eyes wide open having negotiated what we considered a fair rental considering the amount of capital we would have to expend on the re-fit. A mutually acceptable deal was agreed and draft lease documentation was presented to us in short order. Having been around the block a time or two in my career, I read through the lease and noted that it was drafted on an internal repairing and insuring basis. That effectively means that we needed to get the

internal fabric of the structure inspected before we signed and took occupation of the unit otherwise any internal defect that we may later find would be our problem to fix to the satisfaction of the landlord. I had a surveyor friend look over the unit and he came back with quite a good report but there was one defect that he drew to our attention. That was a 1st floor timber beam had dropped 3 to 4 inches in the middle of its span. We called in the landlord’s estate manager to see offending fault and he quickly agreed to get work underway to affect a suitable repair. On that agreement we issued a letter of intent stating that we would sign the lease once the structural problem had been fixed. Six weeks and about 15 grand of the landlord’s money later the lease was signed. In our negotiations we had had a rent free period granted to allow us to decorate and fit out the new unit whilst still running the old unit. A target date for completion was set for the first week in November and we worked merrily away toward that goal. As previously mentioned there had been a bare-bones strip out carried out after the last tenant left, so we had to put everything back. What we had not bargained for was the true extent of that infrastructure replacement; not simply in cost terms but also in the time it would take to organise the various contractors to undertake the works. The up side of the time delay was that we could get everything we wanted with regard to trade fittings and equipment ordered or manufactured and set

Another huge benefit to us having to do a complete re-fit is the fact that with needing to completely rewire the whole building we have finished up with every electrical socket being in exactly the right position and all the lights being located to optimise the light and reducing shadows to a minimum. The new suspended ceiling installation gets underway. On the subject of lighting, I must mention that we have fitted LED light panels in the new suspended ceiling. These units give a flat shadowless even light and they are only 40watts capacity. Over time they will pay for themselves with cash we save on reduced consumption. The first week in November came and went so did the second target date of the first week in December. It became apparent to us that it would be utterly foolish to try and complete the move before the annual Christmas rush; better for us to get Christmas over and done within the old shop and move into the new shop once New Year was behind us. And that is broadly how things panned out for us. We completed our refit works before Christmas, worked our last day in the old shop on the 2nd of January and opened the new shop on the 4th. I need to mention however that on the 3rd of Jan a team of 6 of us put in a 14 hour day in order to pull it off. But we did it and we are really happy with the way things have gone; a brand new spanking 10-chair shop and the luxury of all the added space is great and we now have the perfect location to grow the business on to the next level. So we’ll have plenty of pictures of the finished unit for you next time. Before I finish I must mention one very important thing. With the new unit having stood empty for over a year we have negotiated a large reduction in the amount of business rates that will be paid in the first year of our new tenancy, it’s called a “reoccupation allowance” and is well worth getting if your local authority is doing the scheme. We are talking about several thousand pounds in our case, so get it if you can.

Earlier in the year Dan and I took the decision to grow the business and we intended to do this by opening a second shop. We identified a suitable unit and made an offer on it that was accepted. aside awaiting the call for delivery. On the financial side of things, yes we had a budget to work to and yes as expected we did spend more that we intended and wanted to spend; but we have worked from our own resources and not had the worry of running back to lender and asking for more. Have we achieved what we wanted to? Yes we have. We will amortise the overall cost over several years, this in turn will reduce our tax liability along the way.

Until next time, keep snipping and clipping Robert Rix SHR SRSB MCH MCB.

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 65


Vote for Scotland’s Best Barber Heather Atkinson

Max McAulay

Stacey Mccabe

Barber & Groom, Gourock

The Barbershop, Glasgow

Jentz Male Grooming, East Kilbride

A true celebration of Scottish barbering

I

t’s the country that gave us kilts, haggis, Sean Connery, and, of course, BarberNV, so it comes as no surprise to us that Scotland is finally being recognised as the home of some of the UK’s very finest barbering talent. Over the past few months, the British Barbers Association and premium men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge have been scouring the length and breadth of the country in a bid to track down the nation’s very best barbers, and after weeks of tough deliberation, the six shortlisted barbers can finally be revealed. Davie Walker, from Paisley; Jamie Stuart, from Edinburgh; and Inverclyde’s Heather Atkinson will go head to head with Darren Simons, Stacey McCabe, and Max McAulay, all from Glasgow, in a gruelling online public vote. The three highest-scoring barbers will then go on to compete in the grand final, to be held at the Edinburgh RMC on Sunday, April 24th, at this year’s Scottish Barber trade show. The winner of the competition will officially be crowned Scotland’s Best Barber, walking away with £250-worth of grooming products from The Bluebeards Revenge and have the chance to showcase their talents on the British Barbers’ Association stage at Scottish Barber.

66 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

The Scotland’s Best Barber competition marks an exciting year for those working in the trade, and The Bluebeards Revenge’s marketing manager, Nick Gibbens, said that it was hoped to be the first of many. “It’s great to see the birth of a new wave of barbershops that are opening up across Scotland. Industry standards have been rising and rising for some time now, and it’s clear that those who choose the profession have a lot of passion for what they do. That is what drives them to continue to learn and improve, and Scotland’s Best Barber is a real celebration of that. “It’s all about raising those standards further still, and inspiring Scottish barbers to reach the top of their game, but also enabling experienced barbers to put their skills to the test and see how far they have really come. This might be the first time we have run the competition in Scotland, but it certainly won’t be the last.” With just one month for our top six barbers to secure your vote, the race is now on – and votes can be cast at bluebeards-revenge.co.uk/ scotlandbarbervote, where you can see some examples of their very best work.

Darren Simons Darren’s Dapper Cuts, Glasgow

Jamie Stuart Barberdoo, Edinburgh

Davie Walker Davie The Barbers, Paisley


22nd & 23rd May 2016 - NEC, Birmingham

24th & 25th April 2016 - RHC, Edinburgh

Claim your free trade tickets using Promo Code BNV1 BarberUKShow.com ScottishHairandBeautyShow.com Ticket Hotline: 01332 227 698

In partnership with


Finally! The barbering and hairdressing community is being recognised for the trendsetting, fashion forward people we are with the opening of a new club night in Glasgow aimed specifically at us.

S

tarting Wednesday the 23rd of March at Distrikt in the city’s fashionable Merchant Square, fortnightly event OUT promises to be the destination of choice for stylists looking for a cure from the midweek blues. Wednesday nights have a big reputation in Glasgow, particularly among the gay crowd, but in recent years have been stuck in a bit of a rut with the same old faces in the same old places. Now, Distrikt is bringing its brand of exclusive customer service and personalised touch, that has seen it nominated for “Best late night venue” at the Scottish Entertainment Awards, to help shake things up and once again make it the night to be seen. To do that, OUT are offering a relaxed atmosphere for you and the rest of your shop to enjoy a bit of fun. Whether you’re spending £10 or £1,000, you’ll be treated to the best of service from the management team Stacey Williams, Alisdair Docherty and Taylor Bolger. And with entry just £3 and a wide range of drinks on offer from only £1 for single serve and bottle service, you’ll be able to have a top night without breaking the bank. It’s all about reinvigorating Wednesdays with an alternative, laid-back environment for people of all ages to dance along to some cheesy tunes from the experienced DJ Michael Corry.

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Stacey, who has over a decade of experience in hairdressing, is keen to see as many barbers and hairdressers as possible there, saying, “There aren’t a lot of places for people in the salon industry to go and enjoy themselves, that’s why I’m excited to be part of the team trying to change that.” As it’s during the week, Taylor is keen to reward everyone with cheap drinks and special booth packages to make it a special event, saying, “We intend to bring to Glasgow the ‘go to’ night that it’s missing as so many clubs do the same thing week in, week out. We want to change that with our alternative, fortnightly Wednesday night ‘OUT’ from 11pm to 3am.” From being greeted at the door and taken to your exclusive booth, to table service from their expert hosts and hostesses, it looks like it will be the perfect destination to take clients or just have a fun night out with the team from your shop. They’ll be sure to find a great welcome at OUT with Alisdair keen to give everyone his personal attention and service and even promising to help you find a taxi home if you need it! Everyone at BarberNV towers will definitely be along to take advantage of Stacey, Taylor and Alisdair’s hospitality – we might have to make it a late start the next day!


O N A W E D N E S D AY. . .

SHOTS

£

1

VODKA

£

1.50

KOPPARBERG

£

2

COCKTAIL

£

4

Call 07814505548 for BOOKINGS & GUESTLIST distriktglasgow1

distriktglasgow

distriktglasgow

0141 552 6636


TrainingNV.

Limerick

G

arry Spencer is a busy man. When he’s not running his well renowned salon in Southport, or setting up The Great British Barbers Bashes up and down the country, he’s trying to redefine the education of barbers and hairdressers. Not a simple task but one that Garry has taken on in a bid to improve the standards in the industry by putting on a series of workshops nationwide. Covering everything from cutting skills and fading techniques to providing oneon-one guidance tailored to your individual needs, the events are about taking people out of the stereotypically sterile learning areas and into more familiar surroundings. It’s something Garry is very keen to change. “Education is often filtered, in big warehouses and dull environments. We like to do it in a cool, relaxed atmosphere in shops all over the country.” Much like the way The Great British Barbers Bash has revolutionised the industry, you get the feeling Garry doesn’t like to be shackled by the traditional way of doing things and he believes his method gives the attendees a better learning experience. One of the key aspects is who you’re learning from, with Garry only working alongside the absolute top professionals. He enthused about

his partners, saying, “We only have the finest international educators. It’s the difference between having people who can show you a haircut and the people who can stand in front of a room and command an audience for three hours. We have the latter – people at the top of the barbering fraternity.” It’s far from an empty promise, with experts such as Darren Jones, Mickey Graham, Neil Toner, Alan and Reece Beak, and Darren Pitman all lined up to take workshops over the coming months. It’s good to know the participants will be in safe hands, even with a pair of scissors at their throats! Each of the events is a full day extravaganza but there is the option to just attend the morning display and see the pros showcase four of the freshest styles and pick up some tips from them while they talk you through their methods. Those that choose to attend for the full day get a much more hands on work through. “It’s usually a 10.30 start and we demonstrate the latest cuts,” explained Garry. “We tend to focus more on scissor work but there’s still the classic fading techniques and we tailor it to people’s needs. In fact, at our next event in Aberdeen they asked us to show them some photography work so we’ll be doing a couple of hours of

Learning from the industry’s finest talents and getting one-onone tutelage to help you improve your skills, the benefits of the classes seem clear and, as always, Garry shows he is flexible enough to adapt the classes to suit the people that are learning 70 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Dundee


TrainingNV.

Scotland, Prepare Yourself for Round Two Dublin

Liverpool

Northern Ireland

Paisley

that to help people learn how to show off their styles.” Learning from the industry’s finest talents and getting one-on-one tutelage to help you improve your skills, the benefits of the classes seem clear and, as always, Garry shows he is flexible enough to adapt the classes to suit the people that are learning. It’s this flexibility that sets them apart from the traditional, uniform methods of teaching that never really reach the heart of the issues. For Garry the key is having fun while you learn and he says, “There are other little elements we throw in to keep it interesting. For us, it’s all about having good banter and a good chat and everyone leaving with a smile on their face.” But he takes it further than most teachers and tries to foster a true mentor/mentee connection between the people that attend his classes, saying, “We really try to bond with our fellow barbers so they will feel like they can phone us up after we’re done and maintain a relationship.” It’s a bold move to try and revolutionise the education of the industry almost singlehandedly but Garry isn’t scared of a challenge and the workshops are already taking place across the country. Upcoming events are in places as diverse as Paisley, Dundee, Derry, Sunderland, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Birmingham, Liverpool, Cardiff and London, in the next few months so the chances are there will be one near you. It’s £65 to attend the morning session and view the presentation on cutting skills and fading techniques, and £140 to get the full day experience and profit from the individual treatment from the guest stylists. Go online to www.greatbritishbarbersbash. co.uk/workshops/ for more details and to find out when they’re in your area.

After they wowed the industry with their first event in Scotland last year, The Great British Barber Bash is heading back north of the border and doubling in size with their next event at the Old Fruitmarket in Glasgow’s Merchant City on June 5th.

O

rganised by industry veteran Garry Spencer, the day has the backing of some major sponsors like West Coast Harley Davidson, Reuzel, and OSMO to name a few. Garry knows first-hand the appetite the barbering community has for these events, having previously sold out the Drygate brewery on their last visit to Scotland. This year the event has increased in size, with up to 700 people expected to pack into a venue more used to seeing the likes of the Philharmonic Orchestra than trendy undercuts and wellgroomed beards. Featuring barbers from Glasgow, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, and other areas throughout the UK, the show is an informal and relaxed chance to network with fellow professionals over a few beers while watching demonstrations of the craft. It’s an afternoon of barbering and fun, as much a social event as a learning event, with the key focus being on providing motivation and inspiration for those in attendance and bringing people together in a united camaraderie throughout the industry. With massive interest already, it could well be another sell out, so get on to www.greatbritishbarbersbash.co.uk to book your place. BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 71


TrainingNV.

E D U C ATO R

M I K E TAY LO R An interview with Laura Boyd

Let us educate you on a very important name in the barbering world: Mike Taylor.

M

ike opened his first barber shop when he was just 20 years old, selling his car and putting every spare penny into his venture. After a tough first year, the shop began to take off and Mike was able to introduce luxuries back into his life… and his barber journey properly began. Fast forward and now Mike owns an incredible seven barber shops! He told BarberNV, “They are all different and have a different story behind them. A lot of them, I have business partners with, so they are not solely mine, and to be honest I couldn’t do it without them. I only work in my Bournemouth or Lymington shops now.” Mike has become known as a leading educator in the barbering world, but you can still experience his work as he ensures he works at least one day a week in one of his shops.

72 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

“I believe to educate, you must be current,” he said. So, how did Mike get involved with the education side of the business? “I needed staff. My shop was busy and anyone coming through the door for a trade test just didn’t cut it (pardon the pun). So I spoke to my local college and worked with them to deliver barbering level 2. I had four students in the September and by January I had eleven students and it kept on growing. “I have now been teaching NVQ’s for 11 years and was teaching my own trainees before this. “I love teaching my trade! There is no better feeling than when you get a complete novice and take them through to getting a job in the industry, then looking them up five years later and see where they are. “I have now taught so many barbers that have gone on to own their own barbershops

and some have even gone into education themselves.” Mike insists education is everything: “With barbering more fashionable than ever; so many people want to be a barber. Let me tell you this is a trade, there is loads to learn, after 26 years in the trade I do not know it all and I never will. Please allow yourself time to be trained properly.” So passionate about this side of the business, Mike now runs his own training academy in Poole, Dorset: his Barber College. “I run my NVQ course and day course here. It has been set up as a barber shop so it is a real life training situation. My students do 150200 haircuts when they train with me - doing that number of cuts over a year’s course will guarantee you a job in the industry. There is no point just getting a certificate, it’s worthless if you can’t back it up with skills. “I teach fundamental, solid barbering,


TrainingNV.

@miketeducation / miketayloreducation

working with the head shape, how to layer, how to use the tools the right way etc. My style of teaching is very hands on and very relaxed.” As well as all of this, Mike is a director of the British Barbering Association, which he admits involves “a lot of work and meetings!” “The BBA now has 8500 members, so we are THE voice for the British barber. We lead in the UK for barbering competitions and we also help write the barbering standards. To me, the BBA has done so much for British Barbering and for British Barbers. It has given us the voice we have needed for decades.” While Mike is an inspiration to many hairdressers and barbers, there are four people who have had a massive impact on his career. “Simon Shaw - this man has stood the test of time! He is as big now as he was 20 years ago - so to me he has the biggest barbering profile in this country. “The Schorem guys - Bert and Leen. What these guys have done for barbering is amazing. I think we all owe these two a pint. “And last but not least - Joth Davies, Savills. What a gent and what a business man. This guy could teach me a thing or two and I do not say that lightly.” With such an incredibly varied and fulfilling career, Mike has many achievements to be proud of, but being the first ever Barbering Master Craftsman in the UK means a great

deal to him. “I was awarded this from the Hair/Barber Council and I will being tell my grandchildren and maybe leaving the plaque to them one day.” Hopeful that education will continue to help the barber industry grow and flourish, Mike noted, “I think trail blazers will help - good old fashioned apprenticeships for barbers with two years to learn, not eight weeks.”

Passionate about his profession and a stalwart of British barbering, Mike has been a barber for over 20 years having opened his first barbershop in Newbury aged 20.

Mike successfully manages seven barbershops across Hampshire and Dorset. As well as working behind the chair in his barbershop in Bournemouth, Mike teaches and assesses barbering NVQ 2 and 3 and delivers training for short barbering courses either at his training academy in Poole or out at colleges and salons across the UK. Mike is a Director of the British Barbers’ Association, a trade organisation dedicated to offering support, advice and a range of products and marketing and financial services, training and competitions exclusively to barbers and men’s hairdressers in the UK. If you would like to book Mike either to visit his training academy in Poole or for him to visit you at your salon or college, please email info@ miketayloreducation.com or call 07969348675.

www.miketayloreducation.com

@miketeducation / miketayloreducation

BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 73


TrainingNV.

ACADEMY

MBA

Our Barber Academy of the Month this issue is the brilliant Mobile Barbering Academy.

J

ack Robinson Pullen, Head Educator for MBA, chatted to Barber NV to tell us how the Academy started and why it’s gone from strength-tostrength. In 2012, Jack began to find an increasing number of friends and colleagues were asking him to share his cutting skills. He had always thought education was a role for more experienced members of staff, but as demand for him to share his knowledge increased, Jack realised he could be on to something. He studied market research and planning before going into business and forming The Mobile Barbering Academy. He told us, “Through a passion for the industry and a realisation that education in mens’ hairdressing wasn’t good enough across the board, I decided to try and make a difference. So, here we are a year and a half down the line, with over 30 salons and 250 students on our courses over the last year. It seems to be working.” Jack got into hairdressing when he was just 13 years old and quickly realised “nothing compares to the buzz you get when you achieve the perfect haircut.” At 16, he found that he had a real flair for creating patterns and he soon developed a strong client base, working alongside some great barbers who have helped shape his career. He said, “Over the years, the understanding I had in ladies’ hairdressing helped me to develop my mens’ work and develop a unique style of cutting which seemed to go down well where I was. From there, I went on to develop my craft and began entering competitions and appearing at trade shows. I now work and represent numerous companies, including The BBA and Scissorhands UK as an educator and platform artist.” Jack felt the industry was crying out for the Mobile Barbering Academy as there are so many different types of salons and barbershops - traditional, unisex, modern, afro – Caribbean etc, that one style of training didn’t fit all. He said, “I found that in unisex hair salons, the theoretical understanding of hair science was far superior due to the fact that the majority of stylists were put through a college system. The professionalism and reputation of these types of salons was bigger, they tended to charge more for their services and spend longer doing the cuts, therefore being able to offer a ‘better’ service, however the quality of men’s practical cutting wasn’t good enough. “I found that in the barbershops I worked in, the quality of men’s practical work was far superior and was sharper, cleaner and neater and the skills and techniques were more practical and quicker.

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TrainingNV.

However, the theoretical understanding wasn’t at the same level as the college trained staff I had worked with. “If you look at the two sectors of our industry, you tend to find a massive difference in price and quality of mens’ hairdressing. I feel that the majority of time barbers are undervalued in what they do, even though more often than not the quality of work is actually better. “I wanted to try and change this so I have developed a theoretical curriculum which runs in line with the national NVQ’s and also incorporates the better practical understanding of cutting which is easy to relate to and understand.” The Mobile Barber Courses are either 1,2,3 or 5 day courses, designed with the intention to lay the correct technical and theoretical foundations, to allow for anyone, of any level, to grow. Jack explained, “We also offer contracts to salons so we can do more regular work with their team and hold seminars all over the country. The popularity of the courses has been beyond what Jack ever imagined and as well as visiting salons and running courses across the country; MBA also teach in colleges and are booked up months in advance. Jack believes there is a thirst for education like never before: “The industry is evolving and constantly growing, with new styles, new techniques, new tools, new events and best of all this new mentality towards cutting hair. It was often seen that barbering was a quick no fuss service. Nowadays,

it’s becoming more about offering a good service to your client and perfecting the cut. Due to this, people want to learn more and be able to deliver more. “Our courses are held in salons so we travel all over the UK and Europe. For me, when I initially had this idea, I had to make it affordable and make it work. So we have our educators go to salons, where people feel more comfortable in their natural surrounding and this obviously reduces costs for the students and salon owners.” The Mobile Barber Academy has a team of six staff, including two freelance educators, Jac LudLow and Will Devey. And if it sounds like an interesting prospect for you, Jack noted. “We are looking for more Freelance Educators to come on board and help grow this industry alongside us.” “The MBA isn’t about us, it’s about the people who we teach and who come on board and help growing and evolve this industry too.” There are some BIG plans for MBA over the coming years: “This year alone we are launching our own range of educational videos, products and razors and we have an online store where our students can get the equipment we use on our courses at a discounted rate to ensure they have the best tools. “We are looking for educators to join our team and also looking to open our first academy centre, to be able to deliver NVQ qualifications too and of course deliver more in salon courses than ever before.” The sky’s the limit for Jack and his team.

As a special treat for BarberNV readers, he would like to offer 20% off a 2 day course when booked using discount code MBA/NV20. BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 75


TrainingNV.

When we broached the topic of what elevates a good haircut to great in our last article, we concluded that it was the ability to tailor the style to the specific needs of your client. Factors including fashion sense, lifestyle, and face shape were all mentioned. But, much to our shame, we brushed over another key factor: the hair itself.

G

rowth and growth patterns are as key a determinant as any. Being able to identify which styles sit well at a variety of lengths and textures is key to creating a perfectly tailored cut. The 80s’ “prep” inspired look featured in our step-by-step guide utilises strong movement. During the shoot, we began to discuss understanding the relationship between the way hair behaves at certain lengths and suitable styles. At the Sid Sottung Academy, we use a number of indicators to help solve said conundrum.

76 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

We’ll begin with longer hair and work backwards. Hair that falls under nothing but the influence of gravity is far too long to hold volume, although the 80s would try to tell you otherwise. If the client is looking to maintain a similar length, a natural style that requires minimal styling is advisable. Longer hair on gents should rarely look freshly blow-dried; it can often look too feminine. To ensure a more masculine style, the cut should fall effortlessly into place and be finished naturally.


TrainingNV. A style that accentuates movement is most suited to hair that bends under its own weight. At this length, the hair is long enough to style against growth patterns. Sections are able to flow and separate independently without become overly untidy. That being said, a heavily textured, almost dishevelled style with a lived-in feel would be perfect. Conversely, if hair is long enough to only bend through styling then we immediately turn our attention to volume. Styles that are brushed back or up are ideal for hair of this length. In addition, it lends itself perfectly to a strong, square silhouette, the most appealing shape for a man’s haircut to carry. Anything shorter and we focus on fully emphasising texture. It’s all we have left to personalise the cut considering the limiting lack of length. We’d recommend experimenting with a variety of different texturing techniques to create a unique style. Slightly more rounded, head hugging shapes work well at this length, particularly the resurgent textured crop. And finally, we come to hair that is short enough to reveal skin. Admittedly, options become somewhat limited at this stage. A clean, well-blended fade is the best (and perhaps only) option. A buzz cut accompanied by stubble could also be to some tastes. Failing that, it may be time to lather up the ol’ head and take a straight razor to it.

Begin or further your career in barbering at the academy of international educator Sid Sottung. ONLINE

PHONE

FB & INSTA

sidsottungacademy.com

0115 837 2401

/sidsottungacademy

265 Mansfield Road | Nottingham |NG1 3FT BARBERNV MAGAZINE | 77


Step-by-step guide

TrainingNV.

In each issue of BarberNV, barbering educator Sid Sottung will show you how to recreate iconic styles utilising Lock Stock & Barrel’s British-made product range. 78 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

The first style in the series draws inspiration from the prestigious 80s ‘preppy’ US subculture. By utilising light texturising techniques, the cut maintains a strong shape but with swift movement.


TrainingNV.

Here is how Sid created the easy to wear style...

2

Create a graduated cutting line using diagonal sections, elevating the hair between sections.

1

Disconnect a horseshoe section around the head by starting at the crown and following the parietal ridge.

Swept back 3

Continue the sections towards the back, decreasing your elevation towards the nape.

4

Repeat the same procedure on the other side. Always be mindful of the internal balance of the cut.

8

6 7

Refine the internal shape utilising scissor over comb techniques.

Refine the external shape, using trimmers for the perimeter.

9

Blow dry the hair, again using a flat brush. Remove excessive weight cusing texturising techniques. When using the slicing technique, remove the weight in the direction the hair falls.

10

5

Apply Lock Stock and Barrel Preptonic throughout the hair. Using a flat brush, blow dry the hair that has just been cut.

Apply Lock Stock and Barrel Pucka Grooming Creme and style the hair accordingly.

Proceed to the disconnected panel on top. Take sections across the head to form a square vertical shape. Create a triangular horizontal shape by maintaining greater length at the front.


TrainingNV.

MARCH/APRIL 2016 TRAINING DATES Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

1st Mar

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,199.00

0115 784 0400

2nd Mar

1 Day

Classic Men’s Grooming

Aston & Fincher Training

Swansea

£149.20

01792 798798

6th Mar

1 Day

Shave Facial Practical

Men U Academy

Hampshire

£345.00

02380 225475

6th Mar

1 Day

Micky Graham & Neal Tonner Hands on Training

Glasgow

£140.00

07801 933780

7th Mar

1 Day

Classic Men’s Grooming

Cheltenham

£149.20

01242 516350

7th Mar

1 Day

Micky Graham & Neal Tonner Hands on Training

Dundee

£140.00

07801 933780

7th Mar

3 Weeks

Advanced Barber

London School of Barbering

London

£1,800.00

0207 404 0998

7th Mar

1 Week

Cutting & Fading With NVQ London School of Barbering

London

£900.00

0207 404 0998

7th Mar

5 Days

Fast Track Barber

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£795.00

0800 644 6601

8th Mar

1 Day

Fading and Shaving

Mike Taylor Education

Dorset

£150.00

07969 348 675

11th Mar

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

Sid Sottung Academy Nottingham

£399.00

0115 784 0400

11th Mar

2 Days

NVQ L3 Wet Shaving

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£450.00

0203 602 5855

13th Mar

1 Day

Fundamentals Course

Menspire Academy

Hertfordshire

£200.00

07834 546400

13th Mar

1 Day

Wet Shaving

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£250.00

0203 602 5855

14th Mar

1 Day

Classic Men’s Grooming

Aston & Fincher Training

Liverpool

£149.20

01512 638811

14th Mar

1 Day

Fundamentals Course

Menspire Academy

Hertfordshire

£200.00

07834 546400

14th Mar

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

14th Mar

1 Day

One Day Shaving Course

Joseph Lanzante Training Academy Lancashire

£175.00

01254 427 575

14th Mar

5 Days

Fast Track Barber

Hair for Men Academy Surrey

£795.00

0800 644 6601

14th Mar

1 Day

Men U Clipper Course

Men U Academy

Hampshire

£245.00

02380 224375

14th Mar

2 Days

Creative Advanced Gents

WAHL Academy

Kent

£300.00

01227 744323

14th Mar

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,199.00

0115 784 0400

16th Mar

1 Day

Specialist: The Artist

WAHL Academy

Kent

£300.00

01227 744323

16th Mar

9 Weeks

L3 Certificate in Barbering

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£1,800.00

0203 602 5855

16th Mar

9 Weeks

L3 Diploma in Barbering

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£2,500.00

0203 602 5855

20th Mar

1 Day

Micky Graham & Neal Tonner Hands on Training

Southport

£140.00

07801 933780

20th Mar

1 Day

Wet Shaving

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£250.00

0203 602 5855

21st Mar

1 Week

Cutting & Fading With NVQ

London School of Barbering London

£900.00

0207 404 0998

21st Mar

1 Day

Creative Advanced Gents

Aston & Fincher Training

Birmingham

£300.00

0121 331 2000

22nd Mar

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,999.00

0115 784 0400

23rd Mar

1 Day

Classic Men’s Grooming

Aston & Fincher Training

Cardiff

£300.00

02920 487740

23rd Mar

3 Days

Savills Master Barber Course Savills Academy

Sheffield

£475.00

0114 276 1011

27th Mar

2 Days

Basic/Transitional Barbering Mobile Barbering Academy

Your Salon

POA

079996 42244

28th Mar

6 Months

Interval Development Program Menspire Academy

Hertfordshire

£1,299.00

07834 546400

29th Mar

9 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering - NVQ2 London School of Barbering

London

£3,780.00

0207 404 0998

80 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Aston & Fincher Training


Europe’s Largest Barbering Exhibition Join us on 26th - 27th June 2016 for exclusive products & FREE seminars at the Celtic Manor, Newport

1 Day Ticket

£20.00 2 Day Ticket

£30.00

@BarberConnect

www.barberconnect.co.uk


TrainingNV.

MARCH/APRIL 2016 TRAINING DATES Date

Duration Course

Company/School

Location

Cost

Contact

29th Mar

1 Day

Hairdresser to Barber

Mike Taylor Education

Dorset

£150.00

07969 348 675

29th Mar

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

29th Mar

1 Day

Introduction to Barbering

Mike Taylor Education

Dorset

£150.00

07920 487740

30th Mar

2 Days

Pro Wet Shave Course

The Shave Doctor Training School Rugeley

£600.00

01785 815865

30th Mar

2 Days

Pro Wet Shave Course

The Shave Doctor Training School Chiswick

£600.00

01785 815865

31st Mar

2 Days

Barber Refining Course

London School of Barbering

London

£550.00

0207 404 0998

1st April

1 Day

NVQ L3 Wet Shaving

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£450.00

0203 602 5855

3rd April

1 Day

Fundamentals Course

Menspire Academy

Hertfordshire

£200.00

07834 546400

3rd April

2 Days

Bespoke Barbering Workshop Mobile Barbering Academy

Your Salon

POA

079996 42244

3rd April

2 Days

Wet Shaving

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£250.00

0203 602 5855

3rd April

1 Day

Fundamentals Course

The Foss Academy

London

£275.00

0203 770 8643

4th April

1 Day

Shave Facial Practical

Men U Academy

Hampshire

£300.00

02380 224375

4th April

2 Days

Pro Wet Shave Course

The Shave Doctor Training School Rugeley

£600.00

01785 815865

4th April

1 Days

Fundamentals Course

Menspire Academy

£200.00

07834 546400

4th April

2 Days

Pro Wet Shave Course

The Shave Doctor Training School Chiswick

£600.00

01785 815865

4th April

5 Days

Fast Track Barber

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£795.00

0800 644 6601

10th April 1 Day

Fundamentals Course

The Foss Academy

London

£275.00

0203 770 8643

11th April

1 Day

In Salon Workshop

Mobile Barbering Academy

Your Salon

POA

07999 642244

11th April

3 Days

Savills Master Barber Course Savills Academy

Sheffield

£475.00

0114 276 1011

11th April

5 Days

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,999.00

0115 784 0400

13th April

9 Weeks

L2 Diploma in Barbering

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£2,500.00

0203 602 5855

13th April

9 Weeks

L3 Diploma in Barbering

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£2,500.00

0203 602 5855

16th April

2 Days

Wet Shaving Course

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£399.00

0115 784 0400

17th April

1 Day

Harry & Rhys Green

Outlaw Barber Collective

Paisley

£130.00

0141 887 2167

17th April

1 Day

Seminar and Training Day

Mobile Barbering Academy

Milton Keynes

FREE

079996 42244

17th April

1 Day

Savills Specialist Shaving

Savills Academy

Sheffield

£200.00

0114 276 1011

18th April

1 Day

One Day Shaving Course

Joseph Lanzante Training Academy Lancashire

£195.00

01254 427 575

18th April

9 Weeks

Diploma in Barbering - NVQ2 London School of Barbering

London

£3,780.00

0207 404 0998

18th April

2 Days

Savills Clipper Confidence

Savills Academy

Sheffield

£350.00

0114 276 1011

18th April

3 Weeks

Advanced Barber

London School of Barbering London

£1,800.00

0207 404 0998

18th April

5 Days

Fast Track Barber

Hair for Men Academy

Surrey

£795.00

0800 644 6601

19th April

1 Day

Clipper Confidence

Mike Taylor Education

Dorset

£150.00

07969 348 675

24th April

1 Day

Wet Shaving

Cutaway Training Academy

London

£250.00

0203 602 5855

Intensive Barbering

Sid Sottung Academy

Nottingham

£1,999.00

0115 784 0400

26th April 5 Days

*Dates and prices are correct at time of going to print and are subject to change.

82 | BARBERNV MAGAZINE

Hertfordshire


Don’t Join us at The biggest Hair, Beauty&BarberingAward Show in Scotland! SUNDAY 4TH SEPTEMBER 2016 | THE RADISSON BLU HOTEL, GLASGOW

NEW BARBERING CATEGORIES ADDED Male Barber of the Year | Female Barber of the Year | Student/Apprentice of the Year Barbershop of the Year | Shave of the Year | Tattoo Parlour of the Year | Tattoo Artist of the Year

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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BarberNV Issue 4  

As we head into spring the weather is heating up and, fortunately for us at BarberNV HQ, so is the barbering calendar with a whole host of e...

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