R E S TA U R A N T
FOOD
The Angel Inn Heytesbury Clare Macnaughton is welcomed at the inn where the Pilgrim Fathers once feasted, and finds a host of heavenly dishes thanks to the wondrous skills of Ross Chappell
T
he Angel Inn Heytesbury has evolved considerably since the Pilgrim Fathers popped in, in 1620, on their journey to board the Mayflower in Plymouth. Indeed, it has a long 35-year history as a great food destination pub. In fact, I worked there in the mid 1980s as a pot washer and occasional waitress when Cordon Bleu chef, Sue Smith, put The Angel Inn on the map as reliable drinkers pub, which served good wholesome food. In more recent times, the pub was celebrated for its food and warm atmosphere and it’s recent closure caused great distress amongst the Wylye Valley locals. Now it has been taken over by Ross Chappell of mobile cocktail bar company, Slick Steel Events, who heralds originally from Salisbury. Ross and his team have an undertaken a complete refurbishment of the pub and created a spacious blend of country, with a touch of urban industrial robustness, for dog friendly dining. There is now no distinction between the restaurant and the bar but instead a balance between the spaces, which caters for your Friday night bar dweller, but at the same time your country dog walker as well as your quiet diner. Ross has simply and elegantly created space for all. With a commitment to continuing the pub’s reputation as a food destination gastro pub, Ross has created a menu, which combines pub classics with an altogether more adventurous cuisine. To start, I have the pan seared pigeon breast with
THE PALATE OF EACH DISH ACUTELY
COMBINES A BLEND OF CRISPNESS
AND FLAVOUR
celeriac purée, parsnip crisps and port and blackberry jus, whilst my lunch date enjoys the salt and pepper squid, with a mango, chilli and tomato salsa.’ Both are delightful; expertly cooked and beautifully presented on the plate. The palate of each dish acutely combines a blend of crispness and flavour. I sample the slow cooked lamb shank served with a bed of creamy mashed potato with seasonal veg and a minted jus as my main course. The lamb shank is presented off the bone and the portion size is sufficient enough to be replete but not stuffed. My date loves their 10oz local ribeye steak with chargrilled, triple cook chips, a grilled tomato and Portobello mushroom; hearty and filling, with a melt in the mouth steak cooked to a medium rare perfection. Around me I can see ample servings of lunchtime pub grub on wooden chopping boards in the guise of burgers and fish and chips. To finish, I opt for the soft chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream. This is cooked to order and takes an extra 20 minutes, but it’s well worth it. The perfectly formed pudding oozes unctuous warm chocolate on cutting and it is indeed one to try for all chocaholics and puddingistas. My date enjoys a crunchy, creamy vanilla crème brulèè with shortbread. Good, but not as amazing as the fondant – but then few things in life are! We wash the meal down with soft, smooth and fruity 2016 San Tuario Malbec from the Mendoza region of Argentina, which compliments the lamb and steak nicely. Ross has been working in the food and drink business for over a decade now and is committed to quality, even with his wife imminently due to give birth. So, the Angel Inn is also being re-born, with Ross firmly at the helm of his new exciting venture and with a new baby on the way he is sure to have his hands full. He is, however, continuing with aplomb the pub’s legacy of being one of the most popular gastro pubs in the Wylye Valley.
DINING DETAILS The Angel Inn Heytesbury, 73 High St, Heytesbury, Warminster. tel 01985 841790; www.theangelinnheytesbury.co.uk Opening hours Monday Sunday 11:30am - 3.30pm, 6pm - 11pm We visited Friday lunchtime Prices Starters £4.50 - £6, mains £10-£16, puddings and cheese £4.50 - £7.50 Drinks choice Selection of real ale, craft beers, wine list, spirits Outdoor space: Yes Vegetarian options Some choices available Atmosphere Country pub meets discerning diner
www.mediaclash.co.uk I SALISBURY LIFE I 53