S STTA A RRT E T RS E R S
New Kid kid on on the the Block block New Let’s kick off with the fondest foodie memory from your childhood. Making mince pies and jam tarts with my nan. She let me drink beer! We’re surprised you remember, in that case! So, what first inspired you to become a chef? Cod in parsley sauce for one pound was a regular supper for someone who left home quite young and naïve. This totally changed when I watched a chef make a bisque, just out of bits...
BEN PARTY Oh hey, Ben Gray. You’re White Row Farm’s new head chef, no?
How did you approach the menu? I wanted to push things forward by going back to basics; I wanted to take everything from the farm, all that they produce, and let the ingredients speak for themselves. What can we expect from the restaurant, then? The new menu runs morning until evening – breakfast, lunch and supper. Plus, there are some lovely cakes as well – it’s a happy meeting place.
And your first job in a kitchen? Pot washer at the age of 13; I was made to wear the chef’s own whites whilst working – and the chef was very large! Then, when I was 16, I turned up on my bike at the Moon & Sixpence and ended up spending the summer washing up there.
What developments do you hope to make over time? I’ve got so many ideas; owners Steve and Heather allow their staff to develop their work organically, which is great. I would like more events, a pizzeria for our new outside space… the sky’s the limit!
What’s the toughest job you’ve tackled so far? This one at White Row – it’s the biggest I’ve taken on.
Which other local restaurants do you like to eat in? Yak Yeti Yak in Bath, and the Fox & Badger in Wellow.
Call us crazy, but you look familiar... I was at The Scallop Shell in Bath. I was lucky enough to be taken on by the owner, Garry, when they first opened their fishmongers at White Row; it was a fantastic opportunity to learn about fish, and I will always be grateful to him for that. It took me to stop being a chef, so I could become a fishmonger, to then appreciate being a chef again. Meeting people from behind the fish counter was when the learning really started happening – I got so much information from so many different customers, not to mention the recipes they shared! Amazing.
Your current fave ingredient? Beetroot – it’s wicked!
How would you describe your style of cooking? Rustic, simple, real and tasty. I like to get involved with the food I'm cooking. How did your role at White Row come about? Steve (the owner) offered me a place to store my Russian military lorry to make a pizza waggon... I’m not quite sure what happened, but I’m still here!
18
Name a piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without. Holly. (She’s one of the chefs!) What and where was the best meal you’ve eaten? Rioja in Spain. A friend’s great aunt and uncle (who were in their 80s) had a wine cellar, hand-cut out of a mountain with a shed on top. In 45C heat they cooked us a 12-course supper, which consisted of rabbit, seafood and veg, along with all the wine we wanted. What do you love most about the local food scene? The independent spirit – there’s something unique about it, and it’s done with passion. There are lots of good places in the area, but I do think it’s a bit oversaturated with chains that don't have that individual identity. ✱ whiterowfarm.co.uk
crumbsmag.com crumbsmag.com