Af ters
( S W I S H N E W R E S TA U R A N T S )
THE IVY CLIFTON BRASSERIE Is this fancy new joint really worth all the hype, or is it just basking in glory borrowed from its swanky namesake? Jessica Carter finds out…
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e’ve all got a bit of rebel in us, right? If people tell you enough times you should do something, you’ll do the exact opposite. I’ll admit to having this attitude about the new Ivy Brasserie in Clifton. With its lovely location – and, y’know, associations with the actual Ivy (although in this it’s not unique, as there are already other Brasseries dotted around London, and more to come outside of it) – it was a foregone conclusion that, for a lot of people, a meal here was something to be excited about. Yet I was… Well, let’s not say sceptical, but instead go for intrigued. I took my open mind along for dinner. The setting is gorgeous; The Ivy has done a sterling job with its new home, a former bank in Clifton. There’s plenty of original character, thanks to handsome wood panelling, tiled floors, detailed cornicing, and arched, floor-to-ceiling windows. And that’s not to mention the mirrors, chandeliers, paintings, huge flower arrangements and leather seating that elevate the elegant space to nothing short of decadent. The conservatory at the back is flooded by light during the day, the bright, airy space making a top setting for morning coffee or breakfast, I imagine. In the evening, meanwhile, the entire dining area is dimly lit, moody and romantic. (Steady.)
We went on a Wednesday evening and it was packed out, although not uncomfortably so. There was a genuine buzz among diners, who were all suited and booted for dinner. While this is meant to be an informal all-day kind of joint, where you can (technically) rock up in your jeans/shorts/velour tracksuit as you wish, it’s nice to have the excuse to get dressed up, especially in Bris – the capital of casual. There are front of house staff a-plenty, so you get all the attention you need. They’re pros too, striking the balance between attentive and leaving-you-to-it, and communicating well as a team. We nibbled on truffle arancini (£5.50) to begin; the crisp, golden jackets containing plump grains of risotto rice in a smooth and gently flavoured sauce. Starters proper were steak tartare (£9.25) and tuna Carpaccio (£8.95). The steak was finely chopped, by hand, and punctuated with tangy cornichon. A thick topping of fresh parsley had a bigger part to play than just a garnish, and a bright egg yolk sat in the middle, oozing thick velvetiness onto the meat. With a little drizzle of Lea & Perrins to boost the seasoning, all was good. The tuna went down a treat, too. Melt-in-your-mouth in texture, the thin, soft slices of yellowfin were light and fresh, while spiced avo and a zigzag of lime crème fraiche gave zing. Next, was the shepherd’s pie (£13.50). Well, we had to, right? It’s a signature dish from the actual Ivy, after all. And, yeah, it was really, really good. A handsome-specimen, its topping
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(smooth, buttery mash, rich with Cheddar) hid a mound of tender lamb in a rich sauce. An excellent, boozy red wine jus was poured at the table, and our side of peas and sugar snaps (£3.25) provided bursts of sweet relief. The sea trout (£15.95) was one of two specials for that evening, and came with pleasingly crisp, brittle skin. Soft and fleshy, it was best in the middle where it was cooked the least. It sat on a bed of samphire in a pool of shrimp velouté, which added moisture, and seasoning in its saltiness. A side of green beans with toasted almonds (£3.75) was nice and earthy against the seafood flavours. Dessert presented itself as a chocolate bomb (£8.50), whose golden chocolate shell collapsed into itself once the warm, salted caramel sauce was poured over, creating a pudding with rich notes and a variety of textures. There was also a tangy lemon meringue Alaska (£7.25) with tiny, delicate leaves of fresh basil. The meal was pretty faultless. Okay, so as just a branch of a rather large tree, the Brasserie might lack local influence in the food and drink, and it is a wee bit pricey – you have to order sides seperately for a lot of the meals, which come in elegantly petite portions. But taking the standard of food and service we had into account, as well as the setting and the sense of occasion it created, we reckon it’s worth it. ✱ THE IVY CLIFTON BRASSERIE, 42-44 Caledonia Place, Bristol BS8 4DN; 01172 034 555; theivycliftonbrasserie.com
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