Brewers Journal UK - Spring 2023

THE MAGAZINE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BREWING INDUSTRY

BREWERS

J O U R N A L

SPRING 2023 | VOLUME 9, ISSUE 1 ISSN 2059-6669

MASH GANG No and low, on their own terms 54 | GREAT BEYOND, LONDON’S NEW BREWERY

28 | DEREK PRENTICE: TOASTING A BREWING STAR

14 | BREWERS INTELLIGENCE: INDUSTRY INSIGHT

LIVE AND LEARN

H

ello, and welcome to

too good not to accept. “I genuinely

the latest edition of The

look forward to working with such a

Brewers Journal! First,

passionate and driven team to create

and foremost, we thrilled

great events and editorial.”

to announce that award-

winning beer & food writer Melissa Cole

And here at The Brewers Journal, our

is joining the team as contributing editor.

raison d’être continues to be sharing stories and playing our own small part in

Melissa’s passion in life is getting people

connecting this fantastic industry. Since

to learn as little, or as much, as they

starting out in 2015, the way we’ve done

want about what she considers the finest

that continues to change and evolve.

social lubricant known to humankind –

Launching as a print magazine before

beer.

moving into the wonderful world of live events and podcasts, too.

Respected the world over for her fine palate, she is invited to judge at

As we continue to develop what we

competitions in New Zealand, the US and

can bring to this industry, we expect our

Brazil, as well as closer to home in the UK

online offering to grow further. We love

and across Europe.

print, and feel privileged to be able to reach the sector via this medium. In 2023,

In recent years, Melissa has been a

we become a quarterly publication. But in

key part of our Brewers Congress

doing so, we are going to be telling more

and Brewers Choice Awards. Going

incredible stories than ever before.

LEADER

forward she remains an integral part of

brewersjournal.info

these events, as well as helping curate

As our podcast programme continues

our regional Brewers Lectures series

to grow, we are also on the verge of

while also contributing editorial to the

launching our video series, too. Each

magazine, too.

month, we’ll take you on a journey of breweries in the UK and beyond, centred

Long before we were putting together

on interviews with leading figures in the

those early ideas for The Brewers

brilliant beer world. We can’t wait to share

Journal, Melissa was someone I hugely

them with you.

admired and respected. So to welcome her as part of the team is a real pleasure,

And finally, we are thrilled that our

and I’m very much looking forward to

Brewers Congress event returns to

working with her on a more regular basis

London this October 18th and 19th at The

this year.”

Business Design Centre. For up-to-date information, please visit: brewersjournal.

Commenting, Melissa said: “Working

info/congress

with an independent editorial team is something I have always loved

We hope to see you there.

throughout my career and being offered the opportunity to be involved in both

Tim Sheahan

the magazine and the events was just

Editor

SPRING 2023

|

3

SPRING 2023

CONTENTS

News Analysis Running a successful brewery involves a combination of factors, but we exist in challenging times. So how can we not only survive, but thrive?

07

Brewers Intelligence In the first of a new series, leading figures from the world of ingredients, sales and distribution, share their insights and expertise on industry trends.

14

In Profile | Derek Prentice A decorated brewer with more than 50 years’ experience in the industry, Derek Prentice has made an indelible mark on countless breweries, beers and people along the way.

28

Dear John | Prize Old Ale Last year’s release of Prize Old Ale was a real highlight for many fans of excellent beer. John Keeling counts himself as one such fan, but his role in the story of this beer goes back somewhat further, too.

32

Meet The Brewer | Mash Gang When it comes to no-and-low, that no longer means no choice, no quality, no variety. Thanks to outfits like Mash Gang and their peers, there is something for everyone.

40

Case Study | Kombucha Donegal-based SynerChi Kombucha recently commissioned a new automatic bottling line “to be proud of”. This is how, and why, they did it.

64

Homebrew Corner This month we look back at the early days of Andy Parker’s brewing career and he also shares his recipe for the recently-released Brave Noise Beer.

75

38 Northern Ireland

The industry reacts to a review of the Northern Irish alcohol licensing system.

4

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

CONTACTS Tim Sheahan Editor tim@reby.media +44 (0)1442 780 592 Tim O’Rourke Technical Editor John Keeling Contributor

54

Josh Henderson Head of sales josh@reby.media +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@reby.media

Great Beyond Brewing Company

Meet one of London’s newest breweries, Hoxton-based Great Beyond Brewing Company.

Reby Media 6 Grove Road, Hemel

24

SUBSCRIPTIONS

Crossing Continents | Belgium

Paul Davies, founder of AleHunters Brewery Tours takes us to Brouwerij ‘t Verzet for the inaugural Oud Bruin Fest.

46 Technology | Nitrogen

An increasing number of breweries are turning to nitrogen for their brewing needs. This is why.

brewersjournal.info

Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1NG

The Brewers Journal is a published four times a year and mailed every March, June, September & December. Subscriptions can be purchased for four issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: subscribe@ reby.media

UK & IRELAND £29 INTERNATIONAL £49 The content of The Brewers Journal is subject to copyright. However, if you would like to obtain copies of an article for marketing purposes high-quality reprints can be supplied to your specification.

Please contact the advertising team for full details of this service. The Brewers Journal is printed at Manson Group, St Albans, UK.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal ISSN 2059-6650 is published bimonthly by Reby Media, 6 Grove Road, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1NG. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 6 Grove Road, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1NG. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.

SPRING 2023

|

5

In a world where you can be anything, be Superdelic.

Woody

Superdelic is the latest hop release from NZ Hops and the gateway to another brewing dimension.

Our test brewers’ tasting notes have generated infinite Ai artworks, bringing to life the infinite creative possibilities of this hop. Take a trip into the artistic depths of your imagination.

Limited quantities available through these partners

Scan to dive in

NEWS ANALYSIS

ECONOMIC UNCERTAINTY: SURVIVE AND THRIVE RUNNING A SUCCESSFUL BREWERY INVOLVES A COMBINATION OF FACTORS, INCLUDING CREATING HIGHQUALITY BEER, BUILDING A LOYAL CUSTOMER BASE, AND EFFECTIVELY MANAGING YOUR BUSINESS OPERATIONS. BUT WE EXIST IN CHALLENGING TIMES, SO HOW CAN WE NOT ONLY SURVIVE, BUT THRIVE?

A

s the brewing industry, and wider hospitality, continues to rebound from the ongoing impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, it has been faced by another economic storm. Though figures released in February possibly point to the UK avoid a much-tipped recession.

According to research firm Growth for Knowledge’s index, which has

been running since the 1970s, consumer confidence climbed faster than forecast. As reported by CityAM, it grew to minus 38 points in February, up seven points from minus 45 points in January.

And in February, JP Morgan raised its projection for gross domestic output growth in 2023 to 0.4% from a previous estimate of 0.1%. As Reuters report, this compares with the Bank of England’s (BoE) forecast, made in early February, for a contraction of 0.5%.

However there is much we can, and need, do to navigate these choppy waters. But there is also need for assistance from the government, too. Andy Slee, chief executive of the Society of Independent Brewers (SIBA) has called for government to introduce vital support for small brewing businesses in response to further brewery closures.

“The brewing industry is the most taxed in the UK and is facing steeply rising costs, and a fall in consumer spending due to the cost of living crisis. For many breweries the battle to stay afloat is proving a real challenge,” he says. “It is now vital that the Government introduce a number of measures to help businesses survive, starting with the introduction of Draught Relief at 20%, which would encourage sales in pubs – driving money back into the economy and helping the breweries that supply them.”

And ahead of the Spring Budget, the The British Beer and Pub Association (BBPA) is calling on the Chancellor to deliver a plan for sustainable growth for an industry that supports local economies and communities everywhere in the UK They say that fair, modernised tax rates and a focus on skills and training are needed to ensure pubs and breweries can thrive in every single part of the country, something the BBPA has noted in its submission ahead of the Spring Budget.

“After almost three years of extremely tough trading conditions due to lockdowns, an energy crisis, supply chain disruption, ongoing strikes and a dramatic drop in consumer confidence and discretionary spending, the BBPA has outlined why now is a makeor-break moment to save pubs and breweries from failure in the coming months and years,” they explain.

The BBPA has outlined the following measures to support the industry: u Long-term changes to beer duty rates including: u No increase in the headline rate of beer duty this year reducing the damaging impact of record inflation. u A significant increase in the discount for draft beer in pubs and implementation of the previously announced reduced rate for lower-strength beers from 1 August 2023 to support public health objectives. u A reformed business rates system that commits to saving high streets and community assets such as pubs from decimation in the coming years u Implementation of training, development and in-work incentives to contribute to resolving the industry’s recruitment challenges.

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

7

NEWS ANALYSIS

SURVIVING AND THRIVING

Emma McClarkin, chief executive of the

compensate for the increasing cost of

British Beer and Pub Association adds:

labor and ingredients. If you do need to

“Our pubs and breweries need a break.

increase your prices, consider making an

We need fair and modern tax rates to

understated, transparent announcement

enable growth rather than putting them

to that effect on your website or social

Surviving a recession as a brewery

at a disadvantage to digital businesses,

media. It doesn’t need to be a production

can be a challenging task, but there

and skills and development incentives

— in fact, it really shouldn’t be. Just be

are several steps you can take to

that work for real people and innovative

honest with your customers about why

increase your chances of weather-

businesses. Given the chance, our pubs

the price increase is necessary. They may

ing the storm. Here are some tips to

and brewers can continue to support

not be happy about it, but chances are

consider:

jobs and communities up and down

they’ll understand, and honesty goes a

the country by investing in people and

long way.

places.”

u Diversify your offerings: During a recession, consumers may be more

Away from much-needed government

CUT COSTS ELSEWHERE

support, there are measures we can

price-sensitive, so it may be beneficial to offer a range of products

implement ourselves. Ekos creates

You may not need to raise your prices

at different price points. Consider

software for craft beverage businesses

in order to maintain profit margins. You

adding lower-priced options or intro-

and below they’ve shared their own

could promote the beers or wines that

ducing new products that appeal to a

advice on how the current market could

are least expensive to manufacture,

broader audience.

affect breweries.

which can increase profits without

u Focus on local customers: In times

They explain: “Folks in our industry often

requiring an increase in sales. Use your

of economic uncertainty, people may

say that beer sales are “recession-proof,”

brewery software to run COGS reports

be more inclined to support local

and with good reason. Beer is cheaper

or other cost analyses to see which

businesses. Consider partnering with

than other alcoholic beverages, and it’s

beverages are the most cost effective

other local businesses and hosting

also an important feature of socializing

to produce, and divert your marketing

events to attract customers.

for many people, making consumers

efforts to focus on those areas. Promoting

3. Streamline your operations: Look

loath to give it up, even during times of

your most affordable beverages may

for areas where you can reduce costs

financial difficulty. It’s true that beer is

also help to ease the sting of any price

without sacrificing quality. This could

one of the alcoholic beverages that is

increases that may be necessary.

include optimizing your brewing pro-

most resilient to economic fluctuation.

But with many breweries forced to raise

cess, negotiating better prices with

STRENGTHEN YOUR SUPPLY

costs due to inflation, and consumers

suppliers, or reducing waste. u Expand your distribution channels:

simultaneously cutting back on their

Now is a good time to strengthen

Consider selling your beer in new

discretionary spending, even beer

distributor and retailer relationships.

markets, such as grocery stores, res-

producers could see modest drops in

Consider trying to negotiate better prices

taurants, and bars. You may also want

sales over the coming months.”

from your vendors. It can’t hurt to reach

to consider selling online and offering

out to new suppliers to connect, either.

delivery services.

Though supply chain issues have begun

u Build relationships with your cus-

to ease in recent months, remember

tomers: Invest in marketing efforts

BE READY FOR MORE ATHOME DRINKING

the recent keg and can shortages when

that build brand loyalty and engage

There’s a good chance wineries and

planning your orders and working with

customers. Use social media, email

breweries will see a modest drop in on-

vendors.

marketing, and other channels to communicate with customers and

premise sales over the coming months.

Breweries in particular should prepare

An increase in bottle/can sales will

keep them informed about new

to pivot to to-go sales and/or beef up

require more packaging supplies, and

products, events, and promotions.

retail distribution efforts. If your business

many vendors have raised their minimum

u Plan for the long term: While it’s

operates in a state that allows it, prepare

order quantities recently, making it

important to focus on short-term

for a potential increase in direct-to-

difficult for craft producers to get the

survival, it’s also important to think

consumer sales of packaged goods by

supplies they need. Consider looking

about the long-term health of your

creating or improving your e-commerce

for new suppliers if you’re not locked

business. Consider investing in capital

presence.

into a contract, and reach out to other

improvements, developing new

producers to see if you can pool your

products, and building relationships

resources to come up with creative

with suppliers and customers that

packaging solutions.

can help your brewery thrive over the

PRICING TRANSPARENCY Consumers are weary of growing

long term.

prices in every industry. But raising your prices may still be necessary to

8

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

FULLY AUTOMATED CANNING SYSTEMS Built to endure. Engineered to adapt.

24/7

REMOTE

SUPPORT

TOUCH

ASSISTANCE

SCREEN

PRECISION

AIR DRYING

SEAMING

UNIT

We are the leading UK manufacturers of micro canning lines. At Micro Can we pride ourselves on our ability to supply a full turnkey package; the canning line plus all ancillary equipment and this is what sets us apart from any of the competition.

Our range of canning equipment is capable of producing from 720 up to 4000 cans per hour, all backed up with UK service and 24/7 online support.

INSTANT QUOTES NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE

3 PERSON OPERATION

IMP2

CL5V3e

CP10 10 HEAD FILLER

UP TO 4000 CANS PER HOUR

0161 818 2070

5 HEAD FILLER

2 PERSON OPERATION

UP TO 2200 CANS PER HOUR

www.microcan.co.uk

2 HEAD FILLER

1 PERSON OPERATION

UP TO 720 CANS PER HOUR

info@microcan.co.uk

VISIT US STANDS 115-123 Contract canning service covering UK and Ireland, filling a wide range of can sizes from 150ml to 500ml.

Our services include:

Some liquids we fill:

• • • • • •

• • • • • • •

Fluid collection Filtration Pasteurisation Carbonation Nitrogen dosing Testing

0161 818 2070

Beer Gin & tonic Kombucha Tomato juice Water Wine Soft drinks

www.canit.co.uk

production@canit.co.uk

NEWS IN BRIEF

ON-DEMAND TECHNICAL COURSE FOR BREWERS BY THE IBD

SIMPSONS MALT’S NEW SCOTTISH MALTINGS MOVES ONE STEP CLOSER

A HOPPY PLACE TO LAUNCH BREWERY

The Institute of Brewing & Distilling (IBD)

Simpsons Malt Limited has been granted

ers of Windsor and Maidenhead’s mul-

has launched its first technical self- as-

planning permission in principle from

ti-award winning craft beer business A

sessed and on-demand short course –

Moray Council to build a state-of-the-

Hoppy Place have announce the launch

Beer Recipe Development.

art maltings with malting barley storage

of a new brewery in the heart of Windsor,

facilities on the outskirts of Rothes.

Berkshire – Indie Rabble Brewing Co.

edge for recipe development for experi-

The decision was made at a special

Working with Alex Rowlands as head

enced commercial brewers with a sound

meeting of Moray Council’s Planning &

brewer and Alison Steele on operations

understanding of the basics of brewing,

Regulatory Services Committee, with the

and scheduling, Naomi will be joining

and it will also benefit more serious home

application receiving majority approval

the new startup as the creative lead and

brewers. The course includes expert

from representatives in attendance.

Dave as sales, marketing and technical

Naomi and Dave Hayward, the co-own-

The course provides essential knowl-

lead.

advice and guidance from brewers who have developed some of the world’s

Up to 40 jobs are set to be created at

most iconic beer brands.

the fifth-generation, family business

Rowlands brings 10 years of brewing ex-

when the site is operational. By having

perience at Windsor & Eton, Thornbridge

“Our first short course is the one we have

a maltings in Rothes, it will expand the

Brewery and Phantom Brewing Co to the

had the most requests for over the years,

company’s number of malting sites in the

project, in what is quickly becoming the

beer recipe development. It is available

United Kingdom to three, with its other

“West Windsor Beer Mile”.

on-demand and is based on established

malting sites in Berwick-upon-Tweed,

science and best practice so if you want

Northumberland – where the company’s

The brewery will use a brand new Elite

to master recipe development, we have

headquarters is located – and Tivetshall

Stainless Fabrications Electric Powered

the course for you!”, said Tracy Adie,

St Margaret, Norfolk.

20HL brewhouse paired with Gravity

IBD head of education and professional development.

WHITE LABS ADDS DRY YEAST

Systems fermenting vessels to produce a The maltings will have an annual produc-

range of beer, with special attention paid

tion capacity of 85,000 tonnes and, with

to German-influenced Lager, both hazy

most of this tonnage earmarked for major

and bright pale ales, kettle sours and

distilling customers located in Speyside,

stouts.

White Labs has launched a new dry

it will also assist the company – which

yeast format that gives brewers another

achieved Certified B Corporation status

convenient option to add to their brewing

in 2021 – in operating more efficiently and

toolbox.

sustainably, with its goal to be net zero

NEW CAN CARRIER APPLICATOR SUPPORTS SUSTAINABLE BUSINESSES

by 2030.

WLP001- California Ale Yeast in an active dry format, providing brewers anywhere in the world access to one of the brewing

PakTech, a major producer of secondary

NZ HOPS LAUNCHES SUPERDELIC HOP VARIETY

industry’s most popular strains “without

packaging handles and handle applicators for the FMCG sector, has introduced the latest in its line of handle applicator

compromising on the quality brewers

NZ Hops has launched new hop variety

machines – the CCA MicroPak. They said

expect from White Labs yeast”.

that is the culmination of more than 10

it designs each and every one of its appli-

years of breeding work. Superdelic is

cators to meet the needs of businesses

The launch of WLP001 dry yeast ensures

the brand-new hop cultivar released

of every size. From its largest and most

brewers have the reliability of White Labs

into market this 2023 season by leading

complex handle applicator machines to

yeast, regardless of preference. With an

co-operative NZ Hops Ltd. After more

its smallest and most convenient, every

extensive shelf-life, White Labs Dry Yeast

than 10 years of breeding work, the early

detail is set in place with clients on top-

offers a proven backup plan that keeps

brewer trials suggest it will deliver like no

of-mind. The CCA MicroPak is designed

brew days on schedule.

other.

as a scalable solution for emerging

“While liquid yeast will always be our

“This exceptional hop is a playful number,

eries, mobile canning operations, and

leading product for the best-quality

with red fruit, candy, citrus and tropical

beyond. It is capable of applying up to 60

beer, we wanted to ensure that brewers

fruit characteristics, offering brewers

can handles per minute and is able to ac-

around the world had access to White

something totally different to use in their

commodate both 12oz and 16oz standard

Labs quality yeast, and specifically

craft. We’re excited to release this unique

can sizes. This allows business owners to

WLP001,” said Chris White, founder and

hop and expect it will create a frenzy,”

keep their labour costs low and opera-

CEO of White Labs.

said Blair Stewart of NZ Hops.

tional effectiveness high.

brands and startups, ideal for microbrew-

10

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

TALKING POINT

SAVE YOUR BREWERY MONEY

WE FACE A PERFECT STORM. THERE ARE RISING BREWING MATERIAL AND ENERGY PRICES, WHILE YOU ALSO HAVE CUSTOMERS CUTTING BACK DUE TO RUNAWAY INFLATION, LEAVING BREWERS STUCK IN THE MIDDLE. SO WHAT CAN WE DO? TIM O’ ROURKE, TECHNICAL EDITOR AT THE BREWERS JOURNAL, SHARES HIS THOUGHTS.

12

|

SPRING 2023

T

hings are tough at the

more expensive than standard malts as

moment, that much we

they have higher energy requirement for

know. But there is action

roasting. By substituting higher coloured

we can take. And in doing

dark malts for lower coloured malts and

so, every brewer can make

replacing the extract with pale malts will

savings through prudent processing and

reduce the cost of the malt bill.

improved efficiency without having to

u Reducing the % alcohol and amount of

use capital to make investment. Many

malt used can show significant savings.

of these improvements also contribute

Current excise costs are £19.08 per hl %

to cutting greenhouse gas emissions,

abv (equivalent to 8 degrees OG and 2.0

helping us achieve sustainability goals.

kg malt per hectolitre). It is possible to reformulate a beer, reducing the amount

BREWING MATERIALS

of malt and alcoholic strength without resulting in a major change in the beer

Malt costs have increased by between 15

flavour and character. (Note brewers

to 20% as a result of higher grain prices

producing under 5000 hl pa pay half duty

and increases in energy costs for barley

rates and beers with alcoholic strength

drying and malt kilning.

below 2.8% pay £8.42 per hl %).

u Improving extract efficiency through better grist particle size optimisation,

Hop prices have not increased as much

mash temperature control and balancing

as malt, although hop growers have

mashing and sparging ratios will increase

suffered huge increases in fertiliser costs

the volume of wort recovered from the

(up by around five times) and drying

same malt bill.

costs, a significant stock carry over from

u Coloured malts are generally 30%

previous years has helped to stabilise

BREWERS JOURNAL

TALKING POINT

PACKAGING

prices. However, not all hops cost the

Careful management can reduce usage:

same with aroma hops commanding

u Turn off electricity when not in use,

a premium. Many brewers use aroma

lights, pumps and conveyors are often

Packaging choices affect costs and

hops for bittering (added at the start of

left on as well as refrigeration plant

influence margins. Reviewing the product

the boil). One option is that these can

running when not required. It is easy to

mix and selling directly to consumers

be replaced by cheaper bittering hops

recover heat from the refrigeration plant

through the internet and brewery tap

reserving more costly aroma hops for late

which can then be used to heat service

room give the best margins. Selling

and dry-hop additions with savings of up

water for central heating or supply hand

beer in bulk such as cask and keg or in

to £25.0 per kilo.

washing basins

reusable containers such as growlers and

u When using steam make sure to

returnable bottles represents the lower

Cleaning products and CO2 – both are

recover all heat condensate.

costs and most sustainable option.

collateral damage of closures of UK

u Recover as much heat as possible

manufacturing. CO2 is a by-product of

by slowing down wort cooling, plan

Small pack (bottles & cans) have higher

fertiliser production and caustic soda

the brewing programme to take full

unit cost which is not always recoverable

from production of chlorine. Plant closure

advantage of recovered heat, recover

through higher prices and generally

in the UK has resulted in shortages and

condensate from boiling which can be

involves additional costs in materials and

more than a doubling of costs.

used for cask or keg cleaning. Make

manufacture. Careful consideration of

u Cask beers do not require additional

sure heating surfaces are thoroughly

unit costs will show the most profitable

CO2 and so remain the greenest

cleaned between brews to maximise

way of selling your beer.

option. Other packages rely on CO2 for

heat transfer.

carbonation and for maintaining tank

u Energy from boiling can by reduced

top pressure (eliminating oxygen) which

by changing the boiling profile. A typical

can be replaced by nitrogen both in the

profile used in Germany has 20 minutes

Along with everything else the costs

brewery and in trade dispense. Careful

vigorous boil followed by 20 minutes

of storing and delivering beer have

control of fermentation allows the build

simmering and 20 minutes vigorous

rocketed. Supplying local is the best

up of natural CO2, which can reduce or

boiling to finish.

option and careful route planning and

negate the need to buy external CO2.

u Using high gravity wort collection

use of electric vehicles can help to

u With caustic prices going through

before boiling followed by post boil

control costs.

the roof, detergent suppliers have

dilution reduces the total volume to be

been looking at reducing the caustic

boiled and the total energy required.

There is no easy way to completely

concentration and increasing surfactants

u Kettle finings should be regularly

offset the rising costs and it is inevitable

(previously more expensive) reducing

optimised (particularly with new season

that most of these charges will have to

the costs and improving the efficiency of

malt) to give the most compact trub and

be passed on as price increases to the

cleaning. There is also renewed interest

maximise the amount of wort recovered

customers. Brewers should take every

in enzyme based detergents which are

for cooling.

opportunity to reduce waste and to work

not only cheaper, but are better for the environment and for health and safety.

SUPPLY CHAIN

with suppliers to find ways of limiting the Processing & Fermentation times and

size of increase.

temperatures must be accurately Dried yeast is very convenient but can

controlled with effective yeast removal to

It should be remembered that beer is

be expensive. Many brewers use a fresh

maximise yield.

luxury purchase and is a discretionary

batch of yeast to pitch every brew. It is

u Instruments should calibrated for

spend, and we will have to work hard not

relatively easy to collect and repitch

accuracy.

to price beer out of the market and find

yeast up to four to six times before

u Review process times, temperature

ways of adding value to retain our loyal

replacing with a new batch of yeast

and stock control to avoid unnecessary

customers.

which can save the need to use packet

cooling load.

yeast on each brew. (This will be the

u In cold weather it may be possible to

subject of a Back to Basics article on Yeast

turn off some areas of refrigeration such

Propagation and Pitching coming soon in

as fermentation and cellar cooling.

the Brewers Journal).

u Effective yeast handling can be used to reduce beer losses and increase yield.

BREWING PROCESS

u All cask beer is unfiltered and unpasteurised which benefits in

Energy is the biggest cost in the brewing

processing costs and beer losses. Some

process with natural gas often used

brewers also package unfiltered and

for heating liquor and wort boiling and

unpasteurised keg and small pack beers

electricity used for refrigeration and

with resultant savings.

pumps, conveyors and control systems.

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

13

BREWERS INTELLIGENCE THE YEAST REPORT HELLO READER, AND WELCOME TO THE UNIVERSE OF BREWERS YEAST. I’M ANDREW PATERSON TECHNICAL SALES MANAGER UK, IRELAND AND SCANDINAVIA AT LALLEMAND BREWING, AND IT IS MY JOB TODAY TO FOCUS THE MICROSCOPE ON THIS WORLD, TO INVESTIGATE ITS TRENDS, TO RESOLVE MISCONCEPTIONS, TO DECONSTRUCT ARGUMENTS, AND TO EXPLAIN INTRICACIES, ALL WITH THE END GOAL OF UNEARTHING FOR YOU, THE BREWER, THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BREWING YEAST IN 2023.

This article is produced in partnership with Lallemand

14

|

SPRING 2023

T

o start, let us consider the

and varied style in its own right, long

beer styles that might be

overlooked by craft breweries in the

popular in 2023. Lallemand

UK, the Covid epidemic has driven a

recently put this very

necessary drift away from continuous

question to contributors to

specials and, ‘no core range’ policies,

its quarterly newsletter. The answer was

to a need for brand loyalty from the

unanimous, from Mitch Steele to Mark

consumer. The core range has returned

Dredge, IPA was the reply. From the

with a bang, and Lager and IPA make

beginning of the Craft Beer revolution IPA

up the backbone, no range is complete

has been the ubiquitous constant, sure,

without at least one of each.

it has changed over the years, but it has always been there.

YEAST TECHNOLOGY

Whether sparkling bright, crisp and bitter as a West Coast IPA; pale, hazy and

So, we have a good idea of the beer

intensely hoppy as a NEIPA or, shudder;

styles likely to take the craft beer market

thin and fizzy as a Brut IPA. So, we can

by storm this year - but what are the

take it as a given that IPA is not going

specific trends in yeast, and how do

to go away, but might it mutate and

these trends apply to the production

become something else, a related style

of these styles? Long the forgotten

of IPA perhaps?

ingredient in brewing, yeast is having

Already the BJCP lists over eleven

something of a renaissance these

different styles of IPA, so evolution seems

days, which is borne of two broad

likely. If this is the case, what will the

biotechnologies.

role of yeast be in this development?

The first is more of a classical genetics

Early contenders for a new substyle are

approach, whole organism strain

Thiolised IPA, more on that later, and

selection, either by Adapted Laboratory

Cold IPA.

Evolution (ALE), or by Selective Breeding.

Both spin out of the wider IPA category.

In the former technique yeast are forced

Will either last the test of time and take

to reproduce for many thousands of

their place among the beer style royalty?

generations in a stressful environment,

Or will they go the way of the Brut IPA,

with the aim of introducing protective

mostly forgotten, and occasionally

mutations, which confer advantageous

joked about when discussing ideas for a

characteristics in the newly generated

collaboration.

strain.

Beyond IPA, what else could be coming

One example of this is IONYSwf™ from

down the track in 2023? It has long

our colleagues in Lallemand Oenology,

been the opinion of the author that

a yeast designed to counteract the

lager is overdue a craft renaissance,

ever higher sugar levels in grape

and I am glad to say the contributors to

musts caused by climate change. This

our current newsletter agree. In recent

yeast naturally produces less alcohol

years, lager-focussed breweries such

and diverts more carbon towards the

as Utopian, Braybrooke and Lost and

production of glycerol and organic acid.

Grounded have started an underground

The latter technique of selective

craft lager movement which seems to be

breeding has been used to great effect

gathering momentum, even spawning

by Lallemand Brewing, in conjunction

its own internet lexicon among craft beer

with our partners at Renaissance

aficionados.

Bioscience in Vancouver, to create a

The so called ‘crispy boi’, is here to stay,

unique lager strain. Lalbrew Novalager™

even if I will personally struggle to call it

posseses a lower proportion of the

that. Apart from being a truly excellent

cryotolerant Saccharomyces eubayanus

BREWERS JOURNAL

BREWERS INTELLIGENCE parent genome, the upshot being

discussion of the previously mentioned

turning to suppliers of bargain basement

that one can create lager at warmer

thiolysed yeast strains. These strains

raw materials. Again, I would add caution

temperatures with no adverse flavour

first started to appear on the market

here, the old moniker of, “you get what

implications, saving both time, energy

back in 2020. The strains take their

you pay for” exists for a reason. I am old

and of course money.

name from their ability to release bound,

enough to remember the beginnings

The second technology contributing

polyfunctional volatile thiols from both

of the Craft Beer movement in the UK.

to the renaissance in brewing yeast is

hops and malt by way of an enzyme

Then, in a bid to differentiate themselves

Genetic Engineering. There are even

called beta lysase.

from the global brewers, craft beers were

GMO specific yeast labs, such as

These are the chemicals responsible for

advertised as ‘brewed with the choicest

Berkeley Yeast in the United States,

the positive blackcurrant, passionfruit and

hops, malts and yeasts’. In my opinion, it

which only produce genetically modified

sauvignion blanc notes in hoppy beer,

will truly be a dangerous moment for the

strains. Genetic Engineering offers are

but also for the more negative catty,

craft beer market if this ceases to be the

more targeted approach to strain creation

onion and garlic flavours. The infamous

case.

than Selective Breeding, or Adapted

light struck character is also a thiol, albeit

Laboratory Evolution.

derived from a different mechanism.

Characteristics based on single genes, or

While there are some naturally occurring

even whole metabolic pathways can be

wine yeasts which purport thiol release

The above is just my educated opinion

introduced into existing strains, to create

characteristics, the pathway is more

of what might drive the beer and yeast

desirable phenotypes for the brewer. In

or less inactive in the high nutrient

market in 2023. No doubt there will be

recent years Lallemand has worked with

environment of a brewers wort.

some surprises and trends that I didn’t

Mascoma, a Lallemand company in the

Available thiolysed strains are exclusively

see coming. However, if there was one

United States, to create the now well-

laboratory bred or genetically modified

thing I would take away, it is that if you

known Sourvisiae® product.

to enhance this effect. Some brewers are

take your time, and brew the highest

This yeast has been created using a

even using these strains in conjunction

quality IPA and Lager that you can, you

genetic technique called homologous

with a precursor rich extract of Sauvignon

won’t go far wrong.

recombination, to insert a gene coding

Blanc grape skins called Phantasm

for the production of the lactate

Powder, in order to further amplify

dehydrogenase enzyme. This allows

the concentration of thiols in the final

the yeast to create lactic acid as it

product.

ferments. Another GMO strain, Mascoma

At the moment the argument seems

BerryvisiaeTM will soon be launched

to be that more thiols are inherently a

in the United States, which produces

better thing, but I would add caution and

the natural ketone [4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)

nuance. Yes, you can probably create

butan-2-one] responsible for the

more thiols in your product, but are these

raspberry aroma in fruit.

good thiols, or bad thiols? Current yeasts

With the rush towards new strain

do not differentiate the good from the

creation, the subject of intellectual

bad. Are certain hop varieties, or even

property protection has risen to the

malts more prone to the creation of

fore. Strains produced using modern

positive flavours over negative ones. The

biotechnology such as Genetic

answers to these questions are currently

Engineering, and Advanced Breeding

unanswered, and will likely remain so for

Techniques are expensive and time

some time.

consuming to produce, and so the majority of these strains are patent or IP

THE MARKET IN 2023

protected in some way.

This prevents their production by

I think we would all agree that 2023 is

companies other than the creator. As

likely to remain a challenging trading

seen in the hop world, this could lead

environment. The causes are well

to an arms race among yeast producers

known, supply chains are still hit by the

to create the most exciting proprietary

long hangover from Covid-19, and war

yeasts, leading to a healthy variety of

in Ukraine has caused huge spikes in

new and innovative strains for the brewer.

energy costs and associated worldwide inflation. Understandably, and perhaps

THIOLS

inevitably, this has driven brewers to look at their input costs in greater detail.

Any article on brewers yeast in 2023,

From my own experience of the market,

wouldn’t be complete without a

it is evident that some brewers are

brewersjournal.info

SUMMING UP

Lager-focussed breweries such as Utopian, Braybrooke and Lost and Grounded have started an underground craft lager movement which seems to be gathering momentum,” Andrew Paterson, Lallemand SPRING 2023

|

15

BREWERS INTELLIGENCE THE HOP REPORT GREEN CONE-SHAPED FLOWERS, OR “INFLORESCENCE,” OF THE HUMULUS LUPULUS PLANT. SIERRA NEVADA CALL HOPS “A CLIMBING PERENNIAL WITH A DISTINCT JACKPOT” FOR CRAFT BREWERS. AND HERE, BARTH HAAS AND CHARLES FARAM ENLIGHTEN US TO THE LATEST MOVEMENT IN THIS SECTOR.

A

t Barth Haas we are in the

as long as they can replicate the flavours

process of collecting data

from new world hops they are very happy

for 2022, but we reckon

to consider the local option. Let’s face it,

there was further recovery

this has to make sense!

in the beer market with

“On crop outlook, there is a big

an increase in output of some 1-2% vs.

overproduction anticipated in the US

2021,” explains Thomas Raiser, sales and

this year unless acreage is reduced.

marketing director at Barth Haas.

It is estimated that 10,000 acres need

He adds: “It seems that mid-tier economy

to come out. We are not sure how

brands are having a bit of a comeback in

growers will respond but over the next

the current inflationary environment while

few years we expect acreage to reduce

premium brands continue to do well.

significantly.

We are also seeing a continued trend towards low and non-alcoholic beers in many mature markets. High ABV craft style beers seem to struggle a bit and have reached a plateau.

“Looking at crop performance and outlook, there is no significant update at this point. The 2022 hop crop was one of the worst in terms of yield per hectare as well as alpha acid content compared to the long-term average.

“We have to go back to 2003 to find comparably poor yields. The hop and brewing industry is managing the situation with the help of inventories from the 2021 crop, which was above average.

“As far as crop 2023 is concerned, growers will have to make up their minds

by March to decide how many hectares they will be stringing. We expect only minor correction in Europe but more significant adjustments in the US. Final numbers on hectares strung will be available in June 2023.”

Paul Corbett, managing director at Charles Faram says: “Business is steady; and slightly up on last year but below the pre-pandemic figures. Overall we are cautiously optimistic.

“When it comes to demand, we have seen an increase in brewers looking for locally grown hops and in particular the more fruity characteristics of our new varieties. So much so, we will be planting more this year which is very pleasing.

“We think that brewers are looking for more environmentally-friendly hops and

16

|

SPRING 2023

We have to go back to 2003 to find comparably poor yields.

The hop and brewing industry is managing the situation with the help of inventories from the 2021 crop, which was above average,” Thomas Raiser, Baath Haas BREWERS JOURNAL

The best hops from the world’s best producers.

sales@brewersselect.co.uk

01733889100

HELPING YOUR BREWERY ON THE ROAD TO NET ZERO Join us at BeerX and talk to our team about how Fulton’s class-leading fuel-fired and electric steam boilers and portfolio of aftercare solutions can help with your decarbonisation strategy and put your company on the Road to Net Zero. As a complete solutions provider, Fulton can provide your brewery with: · fuel-fired and electric steam boilers · off-grid and point-of-use solutions · ancillary plant / engineered systems · steam surveys · project management · water treatment contracts · accredited / certified training · installation / commissioning / upgrades · repair / service / maintenance programmes Visit us on Stand 85 at BeerX, scan the QR code, click www.fulton.co.uk, email sales@fulton.co.uk or call the office on +44 (0)117 972 3322.

Improving life through heat transfer solutions

FBW244 - BeerX Advertisement - BJ.indd 1

10/02/2023 09:30

Providing quality cooling solutions and support to enable your brewing processes to run smoothly and efficiently.

We can offer: Ø Nationwide support Ø Emergency call-outs Ø Routine maintenance/ service Ø Innovative design solutions to support your individual requirements Ø A wealth of experience and knowledge in the brewing sector

www.evolution-cooling.com 0121 820 8946

BREWERS INTELLIGENCE THE GRAIN REPORT MALT IS A BACKBONE OF OUR BEERS, BUT IT’S ALSO SO MUCH MORE THAN THAT. HERE ROBIN APPEL, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF WARMINSTER MALTINGS COLIN JOHNSTON, THE SALES AND MARKETING DIRECTOR AT CRISP MALT AND DR. AXEL GÖHLER, THE CEO OF BESTMALZ, SHARE THEIR OBSERVATIONS ON THE STATE-OF-PLAY IN THE SECTOR.

F

ollowing disappointing

seed trade is dominated by x3 major

Autumn sales, from the

players: Bayer, who bought Monsanto;

beginning of January orders

Du Pont; and Syngenta). To break out of

have definitely picked

this, the International Barley Hub (IBH)

up. From a phone around

based in Edinburgh and Dundee, needs

we have learnt that a number of craft

to come up with something. But based

breweries have closed their doors for

on current progress, probably not in my

January/February, with some using

lifetime.

the break for refurbishment. There are

Instead, brewers are making ‘one off’

also a few who have just given up,

purchases of Heritage or Landrace barley

and some who have sadly slipped into

malts, where, everybody agrees, flavour

administration. But there are still ‘new

is more pronounced! From Warminster

builds’ all around, and at Warminster, we

Maltings they choose our ‘Plumage

continue to receive these new enquiries

Archer Malt’, Britain’s oldest Heritage

most weeks.

Malt, the barley bred in Warminster in

All this on the back of one of the biggest

1905. From Crisp Malting they would

hikes in the price of malt over recent years. It would ap-pear some maltsters were obliged to pass on price increases of up to 30% on the previous year. This can be attributed to the barley price up, year on year, by circa £100/tonne, which equates to £125/tonne on the malt price.

Then increases in energy costs equating up to a further £75/tonne. But this should be put into perspective - every £100/ tonne of the malt price is just 1p per pint on the price of beer (1 tonne of malt delivers circa 15,000 pints of beer)!

At Warminster Maltings, selling purely into the craft beer market, our biggest seller by far remains ‘Maris Otter Pale Ale’. This continues to sell at a premium over ‘Spring Pale Ale’, and there do not appear to be any waverers! Our ‘Czech Malt’, equivalent to our competitors ‘Pilsner Malt’, and in-troduced just over a year ago, continues to attract a growing following.

Interest in more flavoursome malts continues unabated, from brewers as well as distillers. There is now scientific evidence that the flavour of modern barleys is being diluted by the constant drive for improved agronomic performance.

The “pool” of varieties from which new barleys are being bred is polarised around a relatively small collection of previous performers (the global cereal

brewersjournal.info

No- and lowalcohol beers appear to be gaining ground, with more brewers taking on the challenge of producing them. It’s good to see brewers exploring the opportunities; experimenting and innovating in the brewhouse,” Colin Johnston, Crisp Malt SPRING 2023

|

19

BREWERS INTELLIGENCE probably choose ‘Chevalier Malt’, a Landrace barley Malt. Both of these will be for Special or Seasonal beers.

COLIN JOHNSTON, SALES AND MARKETING DIRECTOR AT CRISP MALT

breweries have been careful to ramp up their contracts in 2022. Therefore, many maltsters are sold out for 2023.

“For the 2022 crop, this is continuing

N.B. The industry is now differentiating between Heritage barley varieties, and

“Many brewers had a better Christmas

to perform well but it’s still too early to

Landrace barley varieties. Heritage

and New Year than expected, and we’re

comment on the 2023 crop. Dryness

varieties are genetically true hybrids

seeing a cautious sense of optimism

may become an issue due to lack of

that range from 1905 to 1965, beginning

among them. They are encouraged

water in the soil, and should the “weather

princi-pally with Plumage Archer, then

by the enthusiasm for craft beer - and

markets” start, prices will most likely

Spratt Archer, Earl, Pioneer, Proctor and

there are quite a few who are planning

rise. While most markets understand

Maris Otter. All barley varieties pre-1905,

expansions in the months to come.

why these price increases occur, it’s

are termed Landrace varieties (selections

“In the USA, it’s interesting to see well-

sometimes harder to explain such

from the wild), and these include

made lagers making a comeback, taking

increases in markets such as China and

Chevalier, and Goldthorpe from the 19th

a bit of share from higher abv IPAs and

North America.”

century, and hundreds of others, all the

hazy beers. This appetite for reliable,

way back to Bere, which is at least 1,000

drinkable – and, most importantly, fla-

years old, if not a lot more.

voursome - craft beers is reflected in the rediscovery in this country of beautifully

The problem with Landrace varieties was

produced British ales.

that they really belonged where they

“In my view, malt-forward styles of beer,

were first discovered - Chevalier (East

whether craft lager in the US or craft

Suffolk); Goldthorpe (Yorkshire), i.e. they

and cask ales in Britain, represent the

did not travel that well. Genetically true

pinnacle of brewing. There’s no hiding.

hybrids, on the other hand, can be grown

Raw material quality and choices are

anywhere, which is why when they came

paramount, and processes have to be

along, everything else was toast!

spot on.

When it comes to the crop, following on

“It’s wonderful to see these malt-forward

from the bumper harvest of 2022 (both

beers come into their own, testing the

yield and quality), looking ahead, Winter

art of the brewer and bringing joy to the

barleys have established particularly

palate of drinkers.

well. Some crops of Maris Otter and

“And culturally, no- and low-alcohol

Craft barley which I monitor are quite

beers appear to be gaining ground, with

outstanding, they appear to be bursting

more brewers taking on the challenge of

with new growth. Spring barleys are

producing them. It’s good to see brewers

being planted now and this bodes

exploring the opportunities; experiment-

particularly well. It is well known that the

ing and innovating in the brewhouse; and

best window for planting Spring cereals is

engaging drinkers. The fact is, there’s

February 15th - March 15th, for optimum

huge competition from other sectors

yield and earliness of ripening.

of the drinks industry for this market

Critical for all barley crops, Winter and

segment - and unless beer fills the no-

Spring, is adequate rainfall in May. A big

and low- voids, some other drink will.”

proportion of the English barley crop is grown on a soil type known as the Icknield Series, light loam over chalk. It stretches from East Yorkshire all the way

THE PERSPECTIVE FROM GERMANY FROM DR. AXEL GÖHLER

down to the Jurassic Coast.

“Following COVID-19, markets are The chalk subsoil acts like blotting paper,

coming back strongly. Those that are

soaking up the moisture in winter, and

affected by inflation and still elevated

retaining it suffi-ciently to sustain barley

freight cost, such as Germany and North

crops through a long dry summer. It

America, are slower in their recovery.

clearly worked it’s magic last year, but

Looking at our products, currently we

there are concerns that East Anglia, the

find organic demand rather strong while

source of much malting barley, is overall

specialties are also in high demand.

getting too dry. The bulk of the barley

Other products are more or less “normal”.

crop needs to migrate west.

:When it comes to demand for 2023, as a result of supply shortages in 2022, large

20

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

WARMINSTER MALTINGS LTD Traditional Maltsters

Go West

...For Better Barley, For Better Malt robin.appel@warminster-malt.co.uk Tel: 01985 212014

BREWERS INTELLIGENCE THE SALES REPORT WHO’S BUYING WHAT, AND WHY? IN THIS ARTICLE DAVID JACKSON, THE CO-FOUNDER OF NATIONWIDE DRINKS DISTRIBUTOR EEBRIA, GIVES HIS INSIGHT ON WHAT PEOPLE ARE BUYING AND HOW THEY’RE BUYING IT, TOO.

E

eBriaTrade is a nationwide

ABV than keg (averaging around 5.6% in

drinks distributor offering

2022, when excluding no/low beers), as

beer, cider, wine, spirits and

brewers reserve the higher ABV “special”

more directly from over

beers for packaged.

700 of the UK’s best drinks

producers. All products are shipped

CANS STILL DOMINATE

directly from the producer, using their nationwide fulfilment network, offering

One of the largest trends over the past

quick, consolidated deliveries, at direct

few years has been the growth of cans,

from the producer prices. David Jackson

from just 27% of beer volume in 2016 to

is the company’s CEO and says that

89% in 2022 (with a slight increase on

when it comes to the last 12 months, Pale

2020 and 2021, both at 87%). Within cans

Ales and IPA remained at the top of the

themselves it was initially all in 330ml

table, but that’s only part of the story.

cans, but now 73% of all can volume

“These consistently form the bulk of

selling is in 440ml can.

our volume. Sours have continued their

Typically now the brewers that use 330ml

steady growth as a category, as the

cans are reserving them for the easy

public become more accustomed to

drinking, core beers that enable them to

them and they become more widely

hit certain target prices across the bar,

available,” he explains. “The biggest drop

or on the shelves. Whereas 440ml is a

was in the DIPAs and TIPAs which after

preferred volume by drinkers who are a

years of steady growth dropped off a lot

little less price-conscious.

in both keg and can, as drinkers favoured lower alcohol hop bombs.”

TEN YEARS YOUNG IN 2023

Jackson adds: “More widely we saw a reigniting of interest in great cask beer,

So much has changed in the 10 years of

as that surged in sales on EeBriaTrade.

EeBria, it’s hard to list them all! Without

Alongside this styles more normally

question the biggest shift is the growth of

associated with cask beer (Bitters, Milds etc.) saw growth, across both keg and packaged. No-and-Low continued its impressive growth, continuing to form an increasingly large share of our sales (now 6%), with a particularly impressive increase in keg where it grew by 155% compared to 2021.”

A FOCUS ON ABV As above there has been a general shift to lower ABVs with the increase of No/ Low and the reduction of sales of big DIPAs and TIPAs, and we’ve seen a strong overall ABV drop across all styles and formats (other than cask which has stayed between 4.33% and 4.38% for the last 5 years!).

2022 saw the average ABV at 4.9% down This article is produced in partnership with EebriaTrade

22

|

SPRING 2023

from 5.2% in 2021 and 5.4% in 2020.

Packaged beer has a higher average

There has been a general shift to lower ABVs with the increase of No/Low and the reduction of sales of big DIPAs and TIPAs,” David Jackson, Eebria BREWERS JOURNAL

BREWERS INTELLIGENCE can. When we started EeBria.com in 2013, there wasn’t a single can available on the site, and it was unthinkable that a good

10 YEAR MARKET TRENDS

beer wouldn’t come in a bottle. Obviously this has completely switched around and can is the king.

u Sours become mainstream (or at least much more mainstream).

When we started we also thought we

u IPAs become big US style IPAs, then become hazy East Coast IPAs and now

were in the middle of the craft beer

seemingly the start of the return to West Coast IPAs.

boom, and that the growth of breweries

◦- Coinciding with this, the US craft beer scene is on less of a pedestal. Drinkers

would slow. Nothing could be much

recognise that UK brewers can produce the same styles just as well, if not better.

further from the truth, and those

u Craft lager has exploded and most craft breweries now brew a lager in their core

breweries we worked with in 2013 have

u “Pastry” has become a legitimate word to include in a beer style!

mostly gone from small operations to

u There are a huge volume of new hops. Previously most craft beers used some

large national brands on all the bars and

combination of Citra, Mosaic, Simcoe, Centennial and Cascade, whereas now the

supermarket shelves in the country, or

list is endless all giving new and exciting flavour profiles to the beers.

brewers internationally recognised as some of the best in the world.

THE ROAD AHEAD IN BEER often have a short lived life-cycle.

Bitter, Mild, Amber, Red, Stout etc. and

We used to do predictions for the year

On more broad predictions, we expect

potentially alongside that some of the

ahead, only to be completely wrong!

there to be a continued resurgence in

less fashionable British hops. No and

Every year a totally new/unexpected

cask beer, and more of the established

Low Alcohol beer will continue to gain,

style will pop up that everybody ends

craft brewers starting to add cask to

and I think 2023 will be the year where

up brewing over a couple of months,

their range. Alongside this we’ll see

draught no/low alcohol beer becomes

that we could never have predicted (like

a resurgence of some of the more

commonplace.

the summer of the Brut IPA) which quite

traditional styles that had been in decline:

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

23

BELGIUM

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

TOWARDS THE END OF LAST YEAR PAUL DAVIES, THE FOUNDER OF ALEHUNTERS BREWERY TOURS, MADE THE TRIP TO BROUWERIJ ‘T VERZET IN ANZEGEM, BELGIUM. WHY? FOR THE FIRST OUD BRUIN FEST OF COURSE. A TWO DAY CELEBRATION OF EVERYTHING ROODBRUIN, FLEMISH RED AND OUD BRUIN.

24

|

SPRING 2023

O

n a stunningly bright

all coming along for the same ride. Folks

sunny Saturday morning

not only from Belgium but all over the

my wife and I made our

world drawn to savour the tart, malty

way via the Eurostar to

nuances of various interpretations of

Kortrijk (tip, travel via

this oft-forlorn beer style. Standout

Lille, it’s quicker) 26 miles south west

modern versions of this ‘oud’ classic were

from Ghent. The largest city in south west

savoured from Antidoot, La Source, De

Flanders Kortrijk has plenty of sites to

Ranke, SOSAB, Toye, Dok and Alvinne.

occupy you for a day.

The medieval Grote Markt with its

Then you had pure class in the heritage

belfry, the Beguinage (listed as a world

example from the likes of Cnudde, De

heritage site) and the amazing fortified

la Senne, Beer Project, Vandewalle,

Broeltorens. There is also the Kortrijk 1302

l’Ermitage and Bourgogne des Flandres.

multimedia museum and Texture, the

And if that wasn’t enough to whet your

city’s textile museum. There are also a

appetite out poured super wild beers

number of breweries in and around the

from Rolling Hills, Holy Goat, Loverbeer,

outskirts of the city and walking along

Tanker and Brekeriet. So if you are

the beautiful River Leie I spied Brouwerij

expecting only BJCP style-specific beers,

Ruimtegist on the opposite bank.

be prepared to open your mind to the

However, we weren’t here for historical

creativity on show.

culture….

On the weekend of 7th and 8th October,

Both days featured sets of masterclasses

Brouwerij ‘t Verzet hosted the first Oud

with Friday including Luc from De Leite,

Bruin Fest, a two day celebration of

Glenn from Alvinne and Rudi from

everything Roodbruin, Flemish Red and

Rodenbach. On Saturday I enjoyed

Oud Bruin. Thirty three brewers from

Chris’ presentation from Vandewalle

Flanders, Brussels, Hungary, France, Italy,

and we also had Valter from Loverbeer

Norway, Sweden, Estonia, Denmark and

and Johnny from Holy Goat. Chris

Scotland showcased an amazing range

Vandewalle, archivist for the city of

of mixed fermentation, barrel-aged and

Diksmuide gave a presentation of Oud

wild ales.

Bruin within the Westhoek of West Flanders and particularly highlighted the

Street food to soak up the tasty beers

role that his family played in this.

was provided by ROK and Potatolicious and a sound system cranked out

Chris was also showcasing his wonderful

anything from old school punk to

beers from Seizonbrouwerij Vandewalle.

krautrock, psychobilly and more. The

He gave me a copy of his book ‘Oud

bottle shop featured extremely affordable

Bruin – De bierlink tussen de verleden

bottles of everyone’s beer with the

en toekomst in Reninge’ (the beer link

obvious highlight the 2022 version of Oud

between the past and future of Reninge,

Bruin Megablend.

where is brewery is based). It was a surprise for me to learn that the style was

What really made the festival memorable

being produced throughout the region

for me was the people that it attracted.

with even a brewery situated on the

Bumping into old friends and colleagues

dunes of the Belgian coast.

BREWERS JOURNAL

Photos credits: Caitlin Mackesy Davies and Ahmed Elamin

Eventually I had to admit that as much

About AleHunters Brewery Tours

About the Paul Davies

as I love this beer style and was still

Want to learn more about Belgian beer

On my journeys I have amassed a huge

keen to taste more beers it was time to

and breweries? It’s easy. AleHunters

amount of knowledge of the country’s

head back into the city for some food

5 star rated Brewery Tours provides

bars and breweries, and built up a

and retire for the evening. Kortrijk has

transportation by mini-bus to Belgium

network of contacts with the key people

plenty of great food options offering up

from our pick-up point in West London.

involved in Belgian’s vibrant beer scene.

numerous different cuisines. But after a

For those based South of London we can

A resident of London for over 35 years I

long day enjoying Oud Bruin it just had to

collect from Stop 24 Folkestone Services.

have developed an in depth knowledge

be a steak with frites, as classic a Belgian

If you live far North of London or outside

of the capital’s most iconic pubs and

dish as you will find.

of the UK you can meet us at our base

bars. More recently I have spent the past

hotel for the trip. Repeat customers are

10 years exploring the most innovative

So Oud Bruin Fest will be back again

entitled to a 10% discount off the tour

and exciting craft breweries in the city.

in 2024. Be sure to keep an eye on the

price for each subsequent booking.

In a previous life, I was a member of the

Brouwerij t’Verzet homepage and socials

Our tours are limited to a maximum of

Quality team at Fuller’s, London’s oldest

as I thoroughly recommend this friendly

10 people so that everyone has the full

brewery. I also delivered brewery tours at

and exclusive beer festival. I’ll definitely

attention of your host, Paul. Brewery visits

its Griffin Brewery in Chiswick, welcoming

be there. Cheers!

will all be arranged making use of our

visitors from the UK and overseas. I have

local knowledge and extensive contacts.

hosted tutored beer tastings for many

Finally, we’ll book your accommodation

years, and have a thorough knowledge of

in 3-4 star hotels to ensure your comfort

beer – from grain to glass.

throughout the trip.

26

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

Looking to create

low colour beers with huge flavour?

Muntons Super Pale Ale Malt is ideal for brewers looking to create low colour, high gravity ales.

Create super pale beers that allow your hop and fruit flavours to sing.

This malt also pairs exceptionally well with crystal malts in making vibrantly coloured ales as the super low colour allows the red, amber and orange hues to shine through.

Contact the Muntons sales team to find out more.

MUNTONS. MAKE IT HAPPEN. MUNTONS DIRECT SALES DAVID HANNAH Brewing & Distilling Malt Sales Manager Scotland & Northern England 07525 809093 david.hannah@muntons.com @MuntonsDavid

ADAM DARNES Brewing & Distilling Malt Sales Manager Midlands, Yorkshire & Lancashire 07795 920922 adam.darnes@muntons.com @MuntonsAdam

JOSEPH FIFIELD Brewing & Distilling Malt Sales Manager London, Southern England & Wales 07583 048935 joseph.fifield@muntons.com @MuntonsJoe

DISTRIBUTOR SALES TOTAL BREWING SUPPLIES, offering bespoke services and deliveries for smaller minimum order quantities of Muntons malt in the East Midlands, Lincolnshire, Yorkshire, Bedfordshire and Cambridgeshire area. @totalbrewinguk 01636 823909 | gary@totalbrewingsupplies.co.uk |

M U N TO N S . C O M

LIFETIME

DEREK PRENTICE: ONE OF THE BEST

28

|

SPRING 2023

LAST DECEMBER, DEREK PRENTICE WAS THE RECIPIENT OF THE ‘LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT’ ACCOLADE AT OUR BREWERS CHOICE AWARDS. A DECORATED BREWER WITH MORE THAN 50 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE IN THE INDUSTRY, DEREK HAS MADE AN INDELIBLE MARK ON COUNTLESS BREWERIES, BEERS AND PEOPLE ALONG THE WAY. HERE, TWO OF THESE FIGURES, JOHN HATCH OF SAMBROOK’S AND JOHN KEELING, FORMERLY OF FULLER’S, SHARE THEIR OWN EXPERIENCES AND TRIBUTES TO THIS FANTASTIC INDIVIDUAL.

I

have many thoughts and

earned profound respect from all his

memories of the great man

new colleagues at Young’s, even the

himself. Many of the facts will

Engineers!!

have been distorted with time and

Derek’s love of hoppy beers came to

excess alcohol but the sentiment

the forefront when he was unleashed on

is true.

an established brand known as Young’s

Derek Prentice joined Truman’s straight

Export. Under Derek’s guidance, Export

from school opting to learn the business

was transformed into Special London Ale

from the bottom up rather than idle

following his tweaking of the hop grist,

away his years at university. Derek

dry hopping and then bottle conditioning

quickly became proficient as a Brewer

it. SLA, as it became known, was later

and joined Young’s Brewery as a senior

showered with an abundance of awards

brewer in 1989 when he was appointed

and became an international sensation.

as Warehouse Manager.

Derek finally decided to knuckle

Derek is not the sort of man to get

down and sit his Masters exams but,

confined to one department though and

astonishingly, he failed to pass first time.

he was soon exploring Young’s, pointing

We quickly found out that Derek knew

out inadequacies, recommending

more about brewing that those marking

improvements and putting one or two

the papers which was his downfall.

noses out of joint as he did so!

All of Derek’s advice though, when

A quiet word from Ken Don suggesting

put into practice, turned out to be

that Derek wrote down what the

one hundred percent correct and

examiners expected to read rather than

the consistency, quality and shelf

what Derek knew to be true would help

life of Young’s beer increased across

and, sure enough, Derek got his Masters.

all the departments. Derek quickly

Derek’s final role at Young’s was as

BREWERS JOURNAL

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT

London, December 2022: Derek Prentice is congratulated by the 2022 Brewer of The Year Colin Stronge

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

29

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT resounding mantra of “Chickens Never

but, instead, he bounced and smeared

Win!!” and the attitude of “what’s the

himself and the bike along its side. The

worse that can happen?”.

bike was pretty much a right-off and when the rest of the party found him,

The worst that could happen when he tried hang gliding was a failed battle against the forces of gravity resulting in a snapped femur,” John Hatch

The worst that could happen when he

Derek was cut and bruised from head to

tried hang gliding was a failed battle

toe and lying in a heap on the floor next

against the forces of gravity resulting in

to an ashen lorry driver who honestly

a snapped femur. Many other sporting

believed that he had nearly killed a

injuries over the years resulted in Derek

cyclist. On asking Derek what could be

having more titanium under his flesh than

done for him he cheerfully expressed the

Arnold Schwarzenegger in Terminator! At

need for a beer and that is what he had!

one point, Derek’s long suffering doctor announced that Derek would be confined to a wheelchair by the age of forty,

DEREK PRENTICE IS THE “GOTO” BREWER, JOHN KEELING

something which Derek has managed to defy the odds on.

Derek is the most helpful person I know and also one of the friendliest. When

Derek was a keen athlete excelling in the

Georgina Young had to leave Fuller’s

throwing field events, the high jump and

on maternity leave the only person who

badminton. Derek was a pivotal force in

could fit into a well established team,

keeping the London Brewer’s Amateur

head it up, take it onward and not put

Sports Association going by encouraging

noses out of joint was Derek Prentice.

both funding and participation. At one

What was truly amazing is that he was a

Brewhouse Manager, a position which he

LBASA fixture Derek had the opportunity

brewer a Fuller’s greatest rivals, Young’s.

relished until Young’s sadly shut down its

to try his hand at the pole vault for the

brewing operation in 2006.

first time.

Derek never thought a problem too big or needed much direction. Our frequent

Derek was quickly acquired by Fuller’s

Derek’s “what’s the worst that can

chats were the basis of how we took

running their brewhouse during George’s

happen” was put to the test as he quickly

brewing forward. Not only did I feel the

maternity leave. Soon after, Derek was

acquired an astounding height before

tiller only needed the lightest of touches

introduced to Mark Gordon and the two

plummeting down and completely

he sometimes did not need any direction

of them set up Wimbledon Brewery

missing the crash mat.

at all frequently anticipating my ideas.

I would also be fairly big picture with

where Derek continues to inspire and Many people who know Derek will know

my directions when I said to him in an

of his affinity with his bicycle, possibly

airy fairy way “lets brew a stout”, he then

So what sort of man is Derek? Certainly

brought about to bypass the drunk-

came back with the great Black Cab

one who grasps life with both hands and

driving laws! His trusty steed has put

Stout recipe, mind you he had done the

gives it one hundred percent. There

Derek into a few tight scrapes though,

same with several other beers, too.

are no bounds to Derek’s passion,

not least of which was the event known

knowledge and enthusiasm for brewing

as “Del Boy’s corner”. Each year Derek

Derek is a great team man, nobody has

and this extends to his eagerness to

would encourage Young’s to enter a

a bad word for him (except maybe a

always make certain that everyone in

team to cycle from London to Brighton in

couple of accountants, but that’s a badge

the room has a beer as well as to impart

aid of the British Heart Foundation.

of honour for any brewer).

up and coming brewery worker. Derek

So, every May, by way of preparation,

Wherever he has worked he was always

has inspired and taught generations of

Young’s would go out for a Bank Holiday

the go-to brewer...

brewers who have all gone on to achieve

bike ride covering some of the steepest

great things.

hills in Surrey and taking in a plethora of

influence.

his encyclopaedic knowledge onto any

pubs. On one such outing, Derek and Out of work, Derek is equally as ebullient

Paul decided to race down a particularly

and eager to participate and has a

steep and unknown hill without realising

number of sporting accolades under

that there was an especially sharp corner

his belt. One of Derek’s passions was

at the bottom.

the luge and he went on to become the Captain of the British Olympic Luge

On just surviving the corner, Derek came

Team. There seems to be little in life that

up against an oncoming lorry which he

Derek has not thrown himself into with his

managed to narrowly avoid going under

30

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

DEAR JOHN

THE STORY OF PRIZE OLD ALE

LAST YEAR’S RELEASE OF PRIZE OLD ALE WAS A REAL HIGHLIGHT FOR MANY FANS OF EXCELLENT BEER. JOHN KEELING COUNTS HIMSELF AS ONE SUCH FAN, BUT HIS ROLE IN THE STORY OF THIS BEER GOES BACK SOMEWHAT FURTHER, TOO.

32

|

SPRING 2023

A

lot of good words have

worked a year over his retirement year,

been written about this

but he readily agreed to stay on for six

remarkable beer. I have

months to help with the handover. Moira

also been interviewed

Williams, another excellent brewer, had

many times through the

just left Gales and was on her way to

years about it and my part in its story. So

Australia. I also knew Malcolm Irvine from

now is the time for me to tell that story in

Heriot Watt and wanted him as a brewer

my own words.

at Fuller’s, but he had already decided to start in his own brewery which is still

Firstly, so much new interest has been

producing excellent beers to this day.

generated by the latest version of Prize Old Ale brewed at Dark Star by head

One brewer that I did meet for the first

brewer Henry Kirk. Henry has made a

time was a junior brewer/lab technician

version of great character and personality

Anthony Smith who was so impressive

- much like himself. Unfortunately, Dark

that I did offer him a job and he is still at

Star is closing its site and being moved to

Fuller’s brewing beer and has had a very

Meantime. While I know that there were

successful career. The beers too could

problems with the lease being up for

be very impressive when on form and

renewal and the brewing plant was not

Festival Mild became a firm favourite with

the best, I hope that Dark Star and Henry

me. HSB and Seafarers were also both

both go on to greater things.

great beers. However, they all suffered from a lack of consistency despite the

I first got involved in the story of Prize Old

hard work and excellence of the brewers.

Ale when I was part of the Fuller’s team

The beer I had most trouble with was

which took over Gales Brewery, way

Prize Old Ale. I had a couple of bottles of

back in 2005. This was not an aggressive

it before and had not particularly liked it.

takeover and in fact we were not the

But then I took a couple of bottles home

first brewer to show interest in Gales. We

with me and drank them one evening.

were however their preferred buyer, and

I had a change of mind; the beers were

the deal was done. Believe me, Gales

exceptional, and I immediately made up

wanted to sell.

my mind to take it to Fuller’s.

I then travelled to the brewery to have

Gales produced one brew of this beer

a look around and meet the brewers. It

every year and fermented it in old

was obvious on an initial inspection that

wooden fermenting vessels that were

the brewery plant needed some major

impossible to clean and therefore had a

investment. The plant had not been

background of flora and fauna impossible

invested in for several years and the

to replicate. This gave POA its unique

largest project the head brewer Derek

flavour. With the brewery due to close,

Lowe had done in his 25 years as a Gales

the cost of updating it to match the

brewer was £26,000. When I tasted

standards at Fuller’s was just too much,

their beers, it was obvious too that they

so I had to ask myself how I could bring

suffered from inconsistency brought

POA to Fuller’s without the wooden

about by the worn-out equipment.

fermenters.

The brewers were all excellent and I

I asked Derek to produce two brews of

had known them for some time, Derek

POA. One for them to bottle and one to

was due to retire, and had already

tanker over to Fuller’s. My intention was to

BREWERS JOURNAL

DEAR JOHN

use the eighty barrels sent to Fullers with

might have been the end, but James

its unique infection to somehow keep the

Kemp then head brewer of Marble,

beer alive. The idea was to brew another

approached us to use the POA in some

eighty barrels at Fuller’s and blend them

beers he wanted to make. Now, James

together, bottling half and keeping half

had worked at Fuller’s and knew all about

for the next year. An additional challenge

POA, so off I went to Manchester to brew

was to keep the infection out of any other

a collaboration with Marble. I took a

beer!

young brewer with me, Henry Kirk, to do all the hard work with James while I drank

The first bottling was in 2007 and I was

tea and advised. We blended some of

really pleased with the flavour. By then,

the Fuller’s POA into this brew.

we had plenty of experience in bottle conditioned beers. We filtered first then

We made four different versions of

re-added fresh yeast, and bottled it using

this beer by aging them in Pinot Noir,

a crown cork not the corks that Gales had

Madeira, Bourbon and Barbera barrels. I

used. If condition built up in the bottle

enjoyed each one and I was pleased that

this sometimes pushed the cork out of

both James and Henry had developed a

the bottle. We repeated the process in

love for this beer. That was to be my last

2008 and I looked forward to this being

active involvement as I retired shortly

a yearly event. Unfortunately, our sales

after. But for Henry this was merely the

team thought otherwise and that was the

beginning, but that is his story not mine.

Sometimes they’d insist the beer go down the drain, I merely pretended to be deaf.”

end for POA at Fuller’s.

Long may the story of this great beer We did however keep the beer in tank

continue.

and despite many people advising me to dump the beer down the drain and sometimes even insisting it go down the drain, I merely pretended to be deaf. That

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

33

COMMENT

CORPORATE STRUCTURES AND THE DANGER OF THE MODEL ARTICLES

FOR BREWERIES SET-UP WITH A SOLE DIRECTOR AND MODEL ARTICLES, IT WOULD BE PRUDENT TO AMEND THE ARTICLES AS A PRIORITY TO ENSURE THAT THE DECISIONS OF THE DIRECTOR RUNNING THE BUSINESS, BOTH MOVING FORWARD AND PREVIOUSLY, CANNOT BE OPEN TO CHALLENGE AND THE FOUNDERS MIGHT EVEN WANT TO USE THE OPPORTUNITY TO MAKE WHOLESALE CHANGES TO THE ARTICLES TO INTRODUCE SPECIFIC DIRECTOR OR SHAREHOLDER RIGHTS, EXPLAINS DANIEL FINN AT BRABNERS

34

|

SPRING 2023

T

he vast majority of

the rights attaching to the shares. Many

breweries will either be

companies (including breweries) opted to

set-up from the outset as

use the “model articles” on incorporation

a private company limited

and only have one active director

by shares or will become

registered at Companies House i.e., the

incorporated i.e., convert from a sole

sole director.

trader status into a corporate entity, as

The model articles are a template set

they grow and the benefits of a corporate

of articles that were included in the

structure become apparent.

Companies Act 2006 and whilst basic

A key benefit of becoming a company

and unlikely to be suitable for companies

will be that the business will have its

with multiple shareholders, were

own legal status meaning it can enter

generally designed to be functional for

into contracts (such as supply and

newly incorporated companies that did

distribution agreements), employ staff,

not require anything overly prescriptive

acquire leasehold or freehold property

or complicated. However, the 2022 High

and borrow money/take on third party

Court case of Hashmi v Lorimer-Wing

investment all in its own name.

has seriously undermined the suitability of the model articles for a sole director

Crucially for the founders/shareholders,

company.

if the brewery runs into hard times and

As a very brief summary, model article 7.2

unfortunately has to close, their financial

provides that “if (a) the company only has

exposure is limited to any amount they

one director, and (b) no provision of the

had agreed to pay for their shares that

articles requires it to have more than one

has not yet been paid, which might well

director, the general rule does not apply,

be £1 per share.

and the director may take decisions

If the brewery were instead being run

without regard to any of the provisions of

as a sole tradership, in an insolvency

the articles relating to directors’ decision-

situation the founder would instead

making.”

likely be liable to fulfil all of the business’

Legal practitioners (and accountants who

financial commitments such as paying-

often set-up companies for clients) had

up the unexpired term on a lease, paying

always operated on the understanding

notice periods for staff, repaying loan

that model article 7.2 took precedence

amounts outstanding etc which could

over model articles 11.1 and 11.2 which

well cause personal bankruptcy.

provide as follows:

Therefore, there are some clear merits of

1. The quorum for directors’ meetings

running the brewery through a company

may be fixed from time to time by a

structure but it is important to ensure that

decision of the directors, but it must

the company has the right constitution

never be less than two, and unless

to meet the founder’s requirements and

otherwise fixed it is two.

quite possibly, the intentions for the

2. If the total number of directors for

business moving forward, otherwise

the time being is less than the quorum

the brewery might well run into legal

required, the directors must not take any

difficulties further down the line.

decision other than a decision:

The articles of association are effectively

(a) to appoint further directors, or

the rules agreed by the shareholders

(b) to call a general meeting so as to

of the company to document how the

enable the shareholders to appoint

company will be governed moving

further directors.

forward and typically cover matters such

However, the High Court ruled that

as who can be directors, when board

model article 11 served as an explicit

meetings should be held, how board

caveat to model article 7.2 meaning a

matters will be voted upon and also

company set-up with model articles

BREWERS JOURNAL

COMMENT which had a sole director could only hold

on litigation, taking on investment,

Whilst the writer hopes that the court

a quorate meeting (i.e., a legally valid

borrowing monies, purchasing property

would strike through such a claim for

board meeting at which business can be

etc, would ideally be approved by the

being a sham excuse to renege on the

voted on) for the purposes of appointing

board of directors and often the party

agreement for whatever reason, clearly

further directors or calling a shareholder

on the other side of the arrangement

no business owner wants to become

meeting for the shareholders to appoint

will ask for sight of the board minutes

embroiled in litigation that could have

further directors.

documenting the decision.

been avoided. Therefore, as part of the

In the case in question, the sole director

Breweries with a sole director and model

arrangements to amend the articles we

company was being sued and sought

articles, therefore, need to consider

would always suggest that the founder/

to bring a counterclaim – the claimant

either appointing a second director

shareholders sign a resolution to ratify

argued the company had no authority

(which might not be ideal if there is not

any previous decisions of the sole

to bring such a counterclaim as there

an obvious person to take on the role

director which effectively covers off this

could have been no valid board decision

and does not fully resolve the issue as it

risk.

to approve such action. The judge

will reoccur if that director subsequently

interpreted model article 11 as expressly

leaves) or ideally, amending their articles

For breweries set-up with a sole

superseding 7.2 and on that basis the

to resolve the issue definitively.

director and model articles, it would

counterclaim was struck out.

Furthermore, as an unwelcome knock-

be prudent to amend the articles as a

on effect of the Hashmi ruling, there is

priority to ensure that the decisions of

The above begs the question which

a risk that important decisions taken by

the director running the business, both

matters ought to be decided by “board

the brewery previously could be open

moving forward and previously, cannot

meeting”, notwithstanding that the

to challenge. For instance, if a supplier

be open to challenge and the founders

notion of a “meeting” of the board when

or landlord wanted out of their contract

might even want to use the opportunity

there is only one director is somewhat

or lease with the brewery, they might

to make wholesale changes to the

farcical to lawyers and laypersons alike.

look to argue that the brewery never

articles to introduce specific director or

As a loose guide, any and all-important

had the proper authority to enter into the

shareholder rights.

decisions, such as entering into long-

agreement.

term or significant contracts, embarking

HOP GROWERS AND SUPPLIERS OF QUALITY HOPS Hops from around the world

DEVELOPING NEW AND EXCITING HOP VARIETIES Archer® l Emperor™ l Godiva™ l Harlequin® l Jester® l Most™ l Mystic™ Olicana® l Opus™ are from our hop development program

THE ORIGINAL ONE STOP BREWING RAW MATERIALS SHOP Hops l Malts l Yeasts l Brewing aids l Lab equipment Sensory kits l Purées l Flavourings l Hop products l Closures

WWW.CHARLESFARAM.COM

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

35

COMMENT

GROWTH IN MEXICO MEXICO’S CRAFT BEER INDUSTRY HAS UNDERGONE A LEAP FORWARD IN TERMS OF PROFESSIONALISM OVER THE PAST 24 MONTHS AND HAS BECOME AN IMPORTANT SOURCE OF EMPLOYMENT FOR THOUSANDS OF MEXICANS. THIS WAS THE VERDICT OF MARCOS GOTTFRIED, THE FOUNDER OF MEXICO’S ANNUAL CRAFT BEER EVENT, CERVEZA MEXICO, WHO HAILED THE PARTICIPATION OF 140 BREWERS AND 2,000 INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS AT THE RECENT EXHIBITION.

T

he event, which took place

demonstrated important advances in

in Mexico City’s World

professionalism in the industry over

Trade Center, featured the

the past two years, not just in terms of

announcement of three

production and marketing, but also in the

winners of the Cerveza

quality of the craft beers being delivered.

Cup 2022, a prize which recognizes

He said: “There has been a spectacular

achievements in innovation and quality

leap forward and the fact that everyone

excellence in Mexican craft beer.

is able to meet under the same roof has

To decide the prize, 47 international

only accelerated this process. The quality

judges evaluated some 709 craft beers

of the craft beers being presented at the

from a total of 136 breweries across

exhibition were very different to those we

Mexico, with the beers classified in 43

saw only two years ago.

categories.

“The same judges who attended Cerveza

Marking the culmination of Cerveza

Mexico as part of the Cerveza Cup said

Mexico, the judges announced the

there had been a significant improvement

winners of the Cerveza Cup 2022 in the

in the quality of Mexican craft beer during

Best Small, Medium and Large Breweries

the 24 months, concluding that Mexico

categories, which went to: Cervecería

had now set the bar very high at a global

Capital Pecado (Small); Kaminari Brewing

level in terms of craft beer quality.”

(Medium) and Buqui Bichi Brewing

With the 2022 edition including over 140

(Large).

exhibitors, more than 700 brands and

In terms of numbers, 140 breweries took

around 2,000 craft beer professionals,

part in Cerveza Mexico 2022, which this

Gottfried said the organizers felt a

year included pavilions for the regions of

great responsibility towards helping the

Baja California and San Luis Potosí.

industry to continue to advance forward.

The parallel suppliers and Inputs show

“The craft beer industry is a business that

featured more than 40 producers of

provides jobs to thousands of Mexicans

ingredients (malt, yeast and hops), as

and for that reason we are wholly

well as packaging, label, bottle and can

committed to continuing to support the

suppliers. Cerveza Mexico 2022 also

sector,” he continued.

played host to the 2nd annual Latin

At the same time, Gottfried recognized

American Meeting of Women Brewers.

the industry faces challenges in the

The success of the event has also

form of the ongoing drought in northern

prompted the launch of a new show,

Mexico and a reliance on inputs sourced

Cerveza Mexico Guadalajara, which

from Europe. “These are important

will take place for the first time in

challenges, which the industry has

Guadalajara, Mexico from May 12-14,

to overcome through identifying new

2023 with the participation of more than

alternatives and looking at how we can

80 craft breweries.

continue to excel and grow,” he said.

After no events in 2020 and limited

Coorganizer Ana Rosa Corral

capacity shows in 2021 (with under 100

commented: “During this edition of

companies present at the exhibition),

Cerveza Mexico, we saw an eagerness to

Cerveza Mexico 2022 marked a huge

do business and a huge enthusiasm after

vote of confidence for the Mexican craft

more than two years of the pandemic. I

beer industry, with over 16,000 visitors

witnessed a highly-motivated industry

recorded during its three-day run.

with lots of projects and growth ahead of it, as well as lots of visitors looking to

LEAP FORWARD

learn about how to brew their own beer, or looking to distribute a brand or open a

36

|

SPRING 2023

Cerveza Mexico founder, Marcos

tap room, restaurant or bar featuring craft

Gottfried, said the 2022 event also

beers.”

BREWERS JOURNAL

COMMENT

CONTINUED GROWTH Consumption of Mexican craft beer is on the rise across Mexico and beyond, thanks to ever greater quality and innovation in an industry that now accounts for one in every 100 beers sold in the country, according to Mexican beer association Acermex.

Unlike other industries which were badly affected by the Covid-19 pandemic, Mexico’s beer industry has thrived over the past two years, with Mexico selling close to 5.5 million litres of beer between January-May 2021, a increase of almost 41%, said Mexican national statistics agency INEGI. Gottfried attributed the growth in sales to an increasingly confident Mexican craft beer industry, which is gathering ever greater numbers of aficionados thanks to its quality and originality.

He added: “We have seen growth year after year in the craft beer industry and that is down to the dramatic improvement in product quality which is driving consumption and sales.”

YEAST

SafCider

™

4 NEW YEASTS DEDICATED TO CIDERS

Sweet or crispy, fresh or cooked, intense, round, dry, floral...

Whatever your wishes, our range of active dry yeasts will help you get the aromatic profile and the mouthfeel you want; even under difficult fermentation conditions. For details and to purchase: fermentis.com

fermentis.com

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

37

ANALYSIS

NI BREWERS WELCOME INDEPENDENT ALCOHOL LICENSING REVIEW INDEPENDENT BREWERS IN NORTHERN IRELAND HAVE WELCOMED THE LAUNCH OF AN INDEPENDENT REVIEW OF THE NORTHERN IRISH ALCOHOL LICENSING SYSTEM, WHICH THEY SAY PUTS SMALL BREWERS IN NORTHERN IRELAND AT A DISTINCT DISADVANTAGE. A LEADING NI BREWER AND SIBA SHARE THEIR THOUGHTS.

William Mayne: “NI brewers are at a disadvantage”of beers sold

N

orthern Ireland’s alcohol

our archaic licensing legislation. Over

licensing system has

99% of beers sold in Northern Ireland

been subject to much

are imported. As a brewery, we sell more

debate over the years

beer in Manchester than we do in Belfast

and is vastly different

because the surrender principle creates

to the much more flexible systems in

an ‘artificial monopoly’ where access

England and Wales, where the Licensing

to market is controlled by the big four

Act 2003 made radical reforms which

multinational brewers.

made the huge growth in community-

He added that the current system creates

focussed independent brewery taprooms

three distinct areas of concern: “Firstly

possible.

breweries in Northern Ireland have a

In the Republic of Ireland, the Sale of

vastly restricted access to the local

Alcohol Bill has proposed changes to

market, Belfast has the most expensive

the extinguishment provision, whereby

pints in the UK (higher even than

any individual seeking to open a

London), and we have the worst levels of

new premises must first acquire and

alcohol related harm in the UK because

extinguish an existing license. In Northern

people can access cheap alcohol in the

Ireland, this provision is called the

supermarket and consume it at home in

‘surrender principle’ and makes it very

unregulated environments.

difficult for small breweries to acquire a

“Every time a supermarket opens in

license to open a pub, or sell beer direct

Northern Ireland, a community loses

from the brewery in a taproom.

their local pub. We want to see a thriving

William Mayne, owner of Bullhouse

evening economy where it makes

Brew Co and Bullhouse East, said:

sense to open more small, independent

“Brewers in Northern Ireland are at a

venues.”

significant disadvantage as a result of

38

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

ANALYSIS The independent review of the Northern

in Northern Ireland, there are now over

and will manage a multidisciplinary team

Irish alcohol licensing system, led by

30 local brewers operating here. A new

which includes experts from the University

the University of Stirling, comes out of

category of license for local producers

of Stirling, Queens University Belfast, the

the Licensing and Registration of Clubs

was introduced as part of the 2021 Act,

University of Edinburgh and the University

(Amendment) Act (Northern Ireland) 2021,

however no brewers have so far gone

of Sheffield.

when an amendment tabled by Matthew

through the application process.

uSection 23 was brought about following

O’Toole MLA and supported by a majority

Mayne added: “Unfortunately, as

an amendment to the 2021 Bill brought

in the Assembly was passed.

licensing in Northern Ireland is handled

by Matthew O’Toole MLA (SDLP) and

Andy Slee, Chief Executive at the Society

by the Courts, the new local producers’

supported by a majority of Assembly

of Independent Brewers (SIBA) added:

license still incurs many of the costs

MLAs. It is the first major review of licensing

“Our Northern Irish members are at a

associated with obtaining any of the

in Northern Ireland in a generation and

significant disadvantage in comparison

other types of premises’ licenses. The

has been welcomed by the Society of

to our members in the rest of the United

producers’ license only allows breweries

Independent Brewers (SIBA), the trade

Kingdom.

to open to the public 12 hours per week,

body representing independent breweries

“Brewers in Northern Ireland can’t

which makes it unviable given it would

in the UK.

easily sell their own products direct

cost in the region of £10,000 just to apply

to consumer and the vast majority of

for the license.”

draught lines are tied to global brewers. u Licensing and Registration of Clubs

amendment was included as part of

(Amendment) Act (Northern Ireland) 2021

the Licensing and Registration of Clubs

Section 23 committed the Department for

(Amendment) Act (Northern Ireland)

Communities to appoint an independent

2021, we are delighted to see the launch

person to conduct a review of the licensing

of the review and we look forward to

system in Northern Ireland within 12

contributing as part of the 9 member

months of the Act receiving Royal Assent.

‘Stakeholder Reference Group.’

uThe University of Stirling have been

Despite the challenges facing brewers

appointed to lead the independent review

NEW

“Having fought hard to ensure this

CONSISTENT, RELIABLE BREWING YEASTS & BACTERIA

Scan to see brewing calculators, recipes, best practices and more.

We Brew WIth You. ™

www.lallemandbrewing.com | brewing@lallemand.com

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

39

MASH GANG

PUSHING THE ENVELOPE

WHEN IT COMES TO NO-AND-LOW, THAT NO LONGER MEANS NO CHOICE, NO QUALITY, NO VARIETY. THANKS TO OUTFITS LIKE MASH GANG AND THEIR PEERS, THERE IS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE. HERE JORDAN CHILDS, THE LEADER AND BREWER AT MASH GANG, SHARES HIS THOUGHTS ON CHANGING CONSUMER PERCEPTION OF NOLO BEVERAGES, HIS LOVE OF WORKING WITH BREWERIES AND BUSINESSES OF ALL KINDS, AND THE GROUP’S COLLECTIVE DESIRE FOR CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT.

40

|

SPRING 2023

G

one are the days where

partaken in the British tradition of driving

choosing a beer without

up and down the country in search of

the alcohol meant

the elusive nectar. And in launching that

forgoing genuine choice

maiden supermarket beer, Mash Gang

in the process. Countless

leader and brewer Jordan Childs was

macro businesses now offer 0.5% or

aware of the importance of striking a

0.0% iterations of well-known brands.

balance.

While numerous independents continue

“I was actually really surprised with

to throw their hats into the ring with a

people’s reaction to it. Even a few years

fascinating array of no-and-low pales,

ago in craft beer a supermarket listing

lager, sours, stouts and more.

was seen to be the end of your craft beer

These drinks complement the

journey, rather than the beginning,” he

burgeoning number of beverages

says. “I often get confused when people

available to consumers that want a

talk about the desire for brewing to be

great beer just with less, or none, of the

more inclusive but that supermarkets

alcohol. For Mash Gang, who started

can’t be part of that.”

their brewing journey back in the first

“It goes without saying that I love bottle

COVID lockdown, no-and-low is their

shops, I absolutely love bottle shops.

raison d’être. And if ongoing demand is

They’re one of the best things about

anything to go by, they’re showing that

going to any town or city. They are our

the appetite for quality beers, without the

lifeblood and the opportunity to have

alcohol, is only growing and growing.

some-thing curated for you is a fantastic experience.”

But let’s first take a moment to reflect.

He adds: “But I think supermarkets are

A successful crowdfunder, brewing 36

somewhat utilitarian. You are going

beers, exports to the Nordics, Australia,

there for certain items, and sometimes

and USA to name but a few along with

you don’t want to think about a beer

700% growth FY21-FY22 - it’s not been a

very much. You just want a consumable

bad few years for Mash Gang. Of course,

item and I designed ‘Self-Titled’ to be a

that’s come with a lot of hard work along

consumable item.

the way. But in doing so, they’ve showed

“And early on, you can see the reviews

that you can produce exciting beers that

are all over the place with people

taste great, look the part and further

arguing it’s not hoppy enough, or it’s

broaden people’s understanding of what

not aggressive enough, or it’s not bitter

no-and-low alcohol beers can really be.

enough. But I think they’re missing the point. Perhaps there’s not a lot of nuance

If you happened upon a Morrisons store

in craft beer sometimes. Someone might

in January you may have encountered

say ‘this beer is a little thin’. But would you

Self-Titled, a 0.5% ABV American pale

want something like a thick lager? That

ale collaboration with Northern Monk It’s

sounds awful!”

Mash Gang’s first major supermarket list-

Childs explains: “I think the challenge

ing. Or perhaps, you might not have. Such

of making a supermarket beer is the

is the demand for beer, consumers have

equivalent of writing a pop song versus

BREWERS JOURNAL

MASH GANG writing a metal song. Both of them need

brewing alongside brewers that are used

He adds: “No single recipe stays the

a technical edge but let’s be honest -

to producing beers at the stronger end of

same. And just because we contract

writing a song that everyone will like is

the spectrum.

brew, that doesn’t mean we don’t have an

obviously very hard.”

“On the whole, I don’t really work with

eye on quality. I have a close relationship

other low-alcohol companies. And the

with breweries like Northern Monk and

Consumer acceptance of no-and-low

reason for that is I don’t see a value for

Fierce. Are you going to tell me they don’t

alcohol beers has come a long way in

either of us in it. You’re already doing it,

respect quality? They are obsessed with

recent years. The choice is greater than

and you’re already doing it well. I prefer to

it! These beers are our babies, they are

ever, as are the styles available to the

go into a business that traditionally does

just incubated in their womb.”

discerning punter. But Childs also feels

a lot of high ABV stuff, and show them

that is still some way to go for these

what we’re doing is really just the inverse

As an eponymously-titled phantom

beers to command the respect they

of that,” he says.

brewery, Mash Gang brew and collab on

deserve.

“I take a large amount of pride in doing

beers at a number of brewing partners.

“There is still the tendency to minimise

that, helping them understand what

And disproving the myth that contract

and undermine those that brew no-

we’re doing is kind of inverse to the

brewing means the quality of their beer

and-low beers. I frequently get asked

is at risk is a particular point of passion for

when I am going to make a real beer,

Childs and the group.

and some brewers will ask that same

“For those that believe we aren’t fully-

question because they feel we’re doing

focused on quality because we contract

‘pretty well’ with one hand tied behind

brew, I tell them ‘That’s fine, I understand

our backs,” he recalls. “I think it was at Indy Man Beer Con and someone asked me about making a proper beer. Because that’s what the world needs, another 5% Hazy IPA. And yes, maybe I have a reputation of being a bit of a d*ck about this but that’s just my sense of humour.

Which is funny because if you look in my fridge, it’s full of hazy hop-forward beers!”

Like so many of us, Childs appreciates a wealth of beer styles, and the brewing expertise used to produce these. But from speaking to his peers, he asks if

When it comes to ensuring quality we are using preventative actions, not corrective ones, Jordan Childs, Mash Gang.

you want, and have, control over your whole process’. So with that in mind, they must be growing their own hops.

Oh, they don’t? Ok then it’s just the grain they’re growing. They don’t? Ok, then it’s just a case of malting their own barley.

Nope, not that either. So it’s just a case of the line stopping at where they say it stops, right?”

He explains: “Ok. I then ask if you have material safety data sheets for every ingredient? Do you have a standard operating procedure? Do you have Total Quality Management in place?

Do you work on the ISO 9001:2008?

no-and-low is one of the “last great chal-

Oh, you don’t? Well, we do. So when it

lenges” for a brewer.

He says: “It does feel as if no-and-low is

imperialization of a beer. So whatever

comes to ensuring quality we are using

perhaps the last hurdle available to a lot

works up, works down, and we’ll take

preventative actions, not corrective ones.

of craft brewers. As a brewer, you want

a great amount of pleasure working on

And that means in the last 80 batches

to constantly challenge yourself and do

things that are traditionally very high abv

we’ve produced, we’ve rejected three.

new and exciting things.

and making a lower version of them.”

“Also our yields are about 30% higher than most breweries. And that is all to

“But one of those problems is that a lot of the time, the customer at large really

And always looking at the next step, the

do with the Total Quality Management

doesn’t want many of those new and

next project and ways to improve is in the

system. And it’s because the most

exciting things. Many beer styles that

Mash Gang DNA. “Planning is a big part

boring parts of my background is that

brewers challenge themselves on are a

of what we do,” says Childs. “We run our

I worked in fields like cosmetics and

niche within a niche, but in my opinion

business through the Japanese model of

pharmaceutical. And the yields and

that’s why the no-and-low beer sector

Kaizen, which translates as continuous

quality processes that exist in much of

offers up so much scope for innovation

improvement. We are focused on slow,

brewing would not be accepted in those

and growth.”

sustained growth. Which is why we

sectors, that’s for sure.”

wanted to spend the early years of this Mash Gang have brewed beers from

business working on a solid foundation

While Childs is the brewer and public

lagers and pales to sours and stouts.

where you build up trust with consumers

leader of Mash Gang, he is part of a

These have been produced at a range

that you always deliver a high quality

wider team that has grown since the

of breweries across the UK and beyond.

product, and that you are always

outfit started out back in 2020 alongside

For Childs, working with the right brewing

relentlessly innovating. We are never

co-founder and CEO James Loveday. As

partner has been invaluable. As has

satisfied with what we do!”

the team has grown, so has its reputation.

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

43

MASH GANG

And it’s what’s in, and on, the can that

check out the reviews for our beers.

Nelson Sauvin from New Zealand,

has propelled Mash Gang to be one of

Those people on there are mean-spirited

German Hallertau Blanc and a small

the UK’s leading names in the world of

and brutal. But even then they say they

addition of US Talus in the whirlpool, the

no-and low-alcohol beers. The market

dock two stars for the beer being a 0.5%

brewery co-pitched traditional farmhouse

for such beers continues to grow, but

beer yet they still give it three stars. So

saison yeast and wine yeast nutrient,

Childs and the team know that craft beer,

we have a five-star beer then? The quality

they both boost the vinous flavours of

without the alcohol, isn’t for everyone.

is shining through without us having to

the hops and bring a light tartness and

But that’s also ok. Because as Garrett

convince people of it.”

full body. The result is a hybrid between

Oliver once told us, liking everything is called having no taste.

a Belgian classic, a NEIPA and a sweet He adds: “And if you’re willing to miss

wine.

out on it, because you want to make this “It’s going to sound dismissive, but it’s not

bizarre standpoint, that’s possibly about

“Honestly, that is one of the best beers

my job to convince people what to like.

some hyper-masculinity of not drinking

I’ve ever had. What even is it? I don’t even

I think it’s kind of exhausting to want to

something that doesn’t have alcohol in it,

know! It’s a bizarre blend of styles but

be liked by everyone. Personally, I break

then what’s the point in craft beer at all?

something that is truly exciting and it won

down every product into two things. It’s

“Actually, you may as well skip drinking

attention, especially brewers’ attention,

either utilitarian or it is experiential,” he

spirits too and just have a Xanax and

for good reason,” he explains. “It blew

explains. “A good utilitarian item is like an

black out on the sofa if that’s the case.

me away. Then again, it won’t be liked by

unbranded t-shirt or Heinz ketchup. You

For me, I don’t drink alcohol for the

everyone but like I said, you don’t have

know exactly what it’s going to do.

effects. That’s a by-product of the beer

to be liked by everyone. It’s fine. In fact,

“But something experiential gives you

for me. I enjoy beer for the flavour and for

the best things aren’t liked by everyone. I

something to be excited about, but it’s

the experience.

always think that if people have a strong

also probably somewhat niche. And what

opinion of what you’re doing either way,

we do is a niche within a niche, and it’s

And one recent experience was Childs

not for everyone. Someone came up to

trying ‘A Hymn For the Fields’ from Field

me at Hop City in Leeds and told me that

Recordings (North Brewing) at our very

they can’t be bothered with no-and-low,

own Brewers Congress event. A Hymn

and for me to convince them. But why?

For the Fields is a Saison, featuring

I’m not a salesperson like that.

Pilsner malt and wheat mashed at a low

it’s better than indifference!”

temperature begin by making a rounded “Just go on something like Untappd and

44

|

SPRING 2023

beer with a dry finish. Dry-hopped with

BREWERS JOURNAL

PUTS BREWERS BACK IN CONTROL. Our new short-term rental product − the same containers with added benefits: RFID technology, transparent billing, flexible delivery options and you only pay when you’re using them.

To find out more call 01425 485421 or visit ekegplus.com

Close Brothers Brewery Rentals is a trading style of Close Brewery Rentals Limited, which is a subsidiary of Close Brothers Limited. Close Brewery Rentals Limited is registered in England and Wales (Company number 5826492) and its registered office is Unit 1, Kingfisher Park, Headlands Business Park, Blashford, Ringwoord, Hampshire BH24 3NX.

NITROGEN

SMOOTH OPERATOR T

FROM GUINNESS TO LEFT HAND NITRO MILK STOUT VIA SIREN HARD POUR BROKEN DREAM, NITROGEN HAS LONG BEEN A WAY TO ELEVATE YOUR BEERS. HOWEVER, DO YOU WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT NITRO BEERS, BUT WERE TOO AFRAID TO ASK? THEN WORRY NOT, HELP IS AT HAND FROM OUR GOOD FRIENDS AT BREW YORK.

46

|

SPRING 2023

he vast majority of beers

sweetness of a beer to the consumer as

consumed today will be

with CO2 some of the gas will dissolve

carbonated, either naturally

on the tongue creating minute amounts

or by post ferment addition.

of carbonic acid which along with the

Carbonation, obviously, is

bubble burst gives most beer (and soft

the introduction of carbon dioxide (CO2)

drinks) that sharper taste and refreshing

to a liquid to create the bubbles you

zing.

see in your beer so what does changing

You may not notice the sharpness of a

the gas involved actually do, it’s still just

standard CO2 beer but once you try a

bubbles right? Well, not entirely…

nitrogenated brew it will become more obvious.

Nitrogen gas has a smaller molecular size than carbon dioxide and so creates

There are minor setbacks with this

smaller bubbles than the standard CO2

solubility of nitrogen in the fact that it

in your beer. The smaller size of bubbles

won’t stay in the beer long meaning

will create a much tighter foam for the

beers can go flat quicker than a standard

head and also, once drunk, a smoother

carbonated one but if it’s a tasty brew it’s

feeling on the tongue giving more

not going to be hanging around long in

creaminess and better mouthfeel.

the glass anyway!

The size of the bubble, however, can’t

Along with the difference in the actual

convey the big hoppy aromas as well

science of the gases themselves there is

which isn’t a massive issue where big

also a difference in the way you should

nitro stouts are involved as the benefit of

serve them too.

the texture of the beer far outweighing the reduction in the volatile aromas.

With nitro beers you need to perfect the hard pour, a way to dispense the beer

The next thing is the solubility of the gas

contrary to standard brews where the

itself. CO2 can dissolve in water readily

can is turned a full 180° after opening and

due to the polar nature of the molecule

allowing the beer to almost fall out of the

(it’s like a little bar magnet). Nitrogen,

can.

being non-polar, doesn’t which leads to

This creates a mass of nitrogen bubbles

the small bubbles breaking out easily

creating a super thick dense head and

producing that beautiful cascading

the trademark cascading effect resulting

effect you see in all those images of a

in the super luxurious creamy beer.

certain nitro stout made by a famous Irish toucan.

The lack of solubility also increases the

BREWERS JOURNAL

Fermentation and Quality Control Specialists

Set up a free consultation to discuss your fermentation needs sales@whclab.com

GET IN TOUCH:

Healthy Fresh Pitch-Ready Liquid Yeast Competitive Priced Dehydrated Yeast

Pete – Spirits pete@whclab.com

Paul – Brewing paul@whclab.com

Email: sales@whclab.com

whclab.com

Order directly with next day delivery Liquid Yeast Dried Yeast Lab Services Yeast Banking Yeast Propagation Custom Strain Development

DOSAGE 10-15˚ 80-140 g/hl

PROPAGATION • For quality control we recommend direct pitching to the wort inside the fermentation vessel.

• Aeration and nutrient addition is recommended but may not be necessarily needed on Gen O.

Hoppin Pils An estery lager yeast that is targeted towards IPL styles and/or dry hopped lagers. Produces some biotransformation that can elevate the hop profile on the clean base beer

STORAGE

4-10˚ in dry conditions INGREDIENTS Active dry yeast (ADY) (Saccharomyces pastorianus), rehydration agent E491 ONLY FOR PROFESSIONAL USE/ BREWERY USE

WHC Lab, Prospect, Newcastle, Co Wicklow, A63 HK02 Ireland www.WHClab.com sales@whclab.com

WHCSAT224 Use By Date: November 2024

Beer_Strains_LABELS_90x100mm.indd 7

WE HELP YOUR BREWERY TO SCALE-UP & SAVE TIME We’re a Dutch engineering company that designs and builds machines for craft breweries. We are schooled engineers and, above all, craft brewers with 10+ years of experience. In our journey we noticed a lack of easy-to-use in- and outfeed equipment for filling machines which improve the productivity in a cost-efficient way. So we designed our own. Our depalletizers, checkweigher, reflow table & case packer are built with improving productivity and low cost in mind.

DEPALLETIZERS

CHECKWEIGHER

CONVEYORS

CASE PACKER

TRUSTED BY

Contact +31 (0) 72 785 4226 info@zomerdijkengineering.com www.zomerdijkengineering.com

Independent & proud owners Moersleutel Craft Brewery

Made in Holland

SEE OUR MACHINE VIDEOS

Visit our website to see videos of our machines.

We made a QR shortcut so you don’t have to type it in your browser. Automation for the win!

12/04/2022 07:

NITROGEN

ADAPTING WITH NITROGEN ANDREW BUTLER, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER OF INDUSTRIAL GASES AT ATLAS COPCO, DISCUSSES HOW AND WHY MANY BREWERIES ARE CHANGING THEIR PROCESSES TO MOVE AWAY FROM CARBON DIOXIDE IN FAVOUR OF NITROGEN.

M

any breweries – from

of carbon dioxide gas (a by-product

seen a £3000 surcharge per tonne added

the largest scale

of the fertiliser industry) brought

to their usual CO2 purchase price.

industrial breweries

about whenever fertiliser plants cease

The implication is that the brewery’s CO2

to microbreweries

production due to high gas prices,

bill would rise from £3000 per month to

and craft beer

breweries have seen enormous increases

£35,000 per month – an unsustainable

in the costs of their CO2 supply.

amount – unless the brewery finds ways

producers – use carbon dioxide (CO2) at

to adapt its processes away from carbon

various stages of the brewing process.

Applications include inerting, purging

This year typical costs have increased

dioxide wherever possible.

tanks or brew kettles, protecting against

five-fold from £200 per tonne to £1000

On top of the rising price of carbon

oxygenation, and nitrogenating the beer.

per tonne, although one large brewery

dioxide, the same breweries are also

However, due to periodic shortages

which we have been in touch with has

experiencing higher than usual electricity

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

49

NITROGEN

When the nitrogen used in a brewing process is released, it merely returns into the air that it came from, whereas escaped CO2 is a greenhouse gas emission, Andrew Butler, Atlas Copco.

costs. These two issues combined

Having nitrogen on tap also avoids any

naturally have a knock-on impact on the

production time being lost while gas

consumer price of beer and, in the worst-

cylinders are changed. Furthermore,

case scenario, even risk putting some

removing high-pressure bottles or tanks

breweries out of business.

of liquid nitrogen from site removes

This is where nitrogen gas comes into the

certain safety concerns and eliminates

picture. Nitrogen, which is much cheaper

the need to store them in a space where

and more readily available, can be used

there is adequate ventilation in case of a

instead of carbon dioxide in at least two-

leak.

thirds of brewing applications.

Suppliers such as Atlas Copco have developed a range of nitrogen

It is already known and trusted by many

generation solutions that make it easy

manufacturers in the food and beverage

for breweries of all sizes to reduce their

industry as a viable CO2 alternative

dependence on carbon dioxide and

for removing oxygen from all types of

improve their profitability. For example,

packed goods, as well as for cleaning,

the NGM+ is a compact, quiet and

inerting and pressurising bottles and

dependable nitrogen generator that

cans before filling. Nitrogen is also more

maximises the robustness and simplicity

sustainable. Replacing a proportion of

of membrane technology.

CO2 with nitrogen significantly reduces a brewery’s carbon footprint. When the

Thanks to its exceptionally low air and

nitrogen used in a brewing process is

energy consumption, it also offers the

released, it merely returns into the air that

lowest cost of ownership on the market

it came from, whereas escaped CO2 is a

today. The NGP+ is a premium nitrogen

greenhouse gas emission.

generator which uses pressure swing

Nitrogen can be supplied in various ways:

adsorption technology. Carbon molecular

in high-pressure cylinders delivered to

sieves guarantee premium nitrogen at

site by a third-party supplier, as liquified

the highest purity levels and highest

nitrogen in tanks, or it can be generated

energy efficiency. For smaller breweries,

from compressed air using an on-

the NGMs membrane nitrogen generator

site nitrogen gas generator. The latter

is a cost-effective, point-of-use solution

method has many advantages over the

that meets low-flow requirements and

first two.

has a footprint of as little as 0.25 cubic metres.

ON-SITE NITROGEN GENERATION

At Atlas Copco, we understand that brewers face an everyday struggle to

An on-site nitrogen generator is a self-

produce quality beer for the right price,

sufficient resource that can instantly

with the challenge sharply increased

deliver all the gas breweries need, on-

by the recent scarcity of carbon dioxide

demand, 24/7, at the touch of a button. It

and high energy prices. We do not want

produces nitrogen at as low as one-tenth

to see breweries forced out of business,

of the cost of delivered nitrogen, with a

soaring beer prices or pub closures.

short payback period now that energy and CO2 prices are high, making this

Breweries should be insulated from

method more attractive to breweries than

the impact of CO2 supply shortages

it has ever been before.

and high prices, and, in our experience,

Self-generation solves several other

on-site nitrogen generation is the most

issues as well. Gone is the need to

dependable choice to do so. We expect

order deliveries to site and arrange for

that we will see more breweries adapting

collection of empty cylinders or request

as much of their production equipment

tank refills, thereby reducing logistics

as feasible to use nitrogen gas rather

planning and associated administration

than carbon dioxide in the future, and

time and costs. Fewer delivery trucks

when they do, we will be ready to offer

arriving on site reduces carbon footprint.

our advice on selecting the most suitable nitrogen generators for their individual needs.

50

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

D

From Single Machines To Complete Plants

Craft Canning - Bottling Lines Packaging Equipment • Want to take control?

• Want short production runs at your convenience?

• Want to reduce product losses at contract packers?

• Want to save transport costs and double handling?

• Want to reduce your carbon footprint?

• Want to control your own hygiene and QA procedures?

• Want improve your packaging?

• Want to save money on labour costs?

• Want to reduce your dissolved oxygen?

You can with an Enterprise Tondelli craft beer Canning, Bottling or Kegging line!

Tel : 01525 718288 E-mail : info@enterprisetondelli.co.uk Website : www.enterprisetondelli.co.uk

✓ 1,300 cans per hour upwards to 80,000 cph ✓ 1,200 bottles per hour upwards to 60,000 bph ✓ 16 kegs per hour upwards to 1,000 kegs per hour

NITROGEN

HOW TO CONVERT TO NITROGEN WITH FREQUENT SHORTAGES OF CO2 INTERRUPTING PRODUCTION, AND SPIRALLING COSTS FORCING BEER PRICES UP, ONE LEADING CRAFT BREWER HAS PARTIALLY CONVERTED TO NITROGEN TO REDUCE ITS RELIANCE ON BOUGHT-IN GAS. BREWERS JOURNAL REPORTS.

While CO2 can’t be swapped out of all brewing applications, nitrogen can certainly take its place in some of them.

E

arlier this year, Wells &

Wells & Co produces 25,000 hectolitres

Co installed Parker’s Nitro

of beer each year, using 500 kg of

Source system at their

CO2 each day. While their costs are

Bedfordshire brewery. The

contracted, the contractual price is linked

compact standalone unit

to supply – so if CO2 becomes hard to

generates 22 m3 of nitrogen per hour,

get hold of, the cost rises.

and the equivalent of 500 kg of CO2 in 12 hours.

Fortunately, Wells & Co didn’t experience

They’re now generating food-grade

production downtime, but only because

nitrogen from compressed air at a

they were able to buy gas in bulk.

fraction of the cost of buying in CO2.

James Hunter, Wells & Co’s Head Brewer

Using it in some of their brewing

says: “We have a bulk tank on site that’s

applications has reduced their CO2

sized for regular 4-6 weekly refills of CO2,

usage by 50 tonnes per year.

but that’s something smaller breweries

CO2 is used extensively in brewing

won’t have. Supply shortages are a real

applications – from blanketing and

problem for many brewers – and in some

counter pressure filling to purging,

cases they simply aren’t sustainable.”

sparging and pressure transfer. But

52

|

SPRING 2023

brewers are facing ongoing challenges

Experts are predicting that the surging

with rising costs, and supplies have been

cost of CO2 will add £1.7 billion to the

interrupted a number of times in the last

price of groceries, with the UK’s food and

few years.

drink sector potentially having to foot

In 2018, production of CO2 fell –

the bill for liquid CO2 if gas prices remain

according to Gas World, it was ‘the worst

high.

supply situation to hit the European

While CO2 can’t be swapped out of

carbon dioxide business in decades.’

all brewing applications, nitrogen can

There were further shortages in 2021

certainly take its place in some of them.

when two main UK ammonia production

When an inert atmosphere is vital,

facilities were halted, causing a 60%

nitrogen can be used at numerous stages

reduction in the UK’s food-grade CO2

of production, including blanketing,

supply. The stoppage was attributed to

counter pressure filling, CIP pipework,

prohibitively high wholesale gas prices.

purging, filling and kegging.

The energy crisis is continuing to create

Parker and its distributor partner, Maziak

further problems. Earlier this year, a new

Compressors, worked alongside Wells

announcement was made ahead of a

& Co to carry out a scoping and sizing

further production stoppage. again due

exercise, calculating existing gas usage

to the high cost of gas making production

and taking into account the link between

uneconomical. Where CO2 is available,

peak demands, purity and buffer

brewers are seeing huge price increases.

capacity.

BREWERS JOURNAL

NITROGEN

Target levels of dissolved oxygen (DO)

oil-free air system, a sterile gas filter, a

Hunter adds: “There are always going to

were fully considered and scoped ahead

500 litre buffer vessel and a 2,000 litre

be barriers that make breweries hesitant

of the project.

storage vessel.

to convert to nitrogen – shelf life of the

Accurate and on-going DO monitoring,

product, for example, capital outlay

with an accuracy to parts per billion,

The benefits so far have been

and payback time – but if you scope it

following the installation of the Nitro

outstanding. Wells & Co now uses

properly, you can understand exactly

Source, confirm the DO level in the

nitrogen to transfer the conditioned

what the benefits and risks will be and

finished product remains well within the

beer after fermentation and control the

make an informed decision.

desired specification.

top pressure in the buffer tanks and the finished tanks. The first two purging

The capital investment doesn’t just

The Wells & Co team was also impressed

processes are driven by nitrogen, while

include the unit – we also have to

with the collaboration between Parker

CO2 is still used in the third round.

consider energy consumption, ancillary

and Maziak. The detailed scoping exercise meant that the installation itself

equipment and maintenance. That said,

ANNUAL CO2 REDUCTION

was straightforward.

we’ll see a return on our investment within 2 ½ years and it’s made us more

If CO2 was costing the brewery 93p/m3

cost-competitive. Alongside that, the

“Full credit to the thorough preparation,”

(at a price of £500 per tonne), nitrogen is

contribution to our environmental

Hunter says, “Because once all the

running below 25p/m3 – a cost saving of

objectives has more than exceeded our

calculations have been done, it’s

around 73%.

expectations.”

literally plug and play for the unit, then

One of the most satisfying outcomes of

Nitrosource was supplied and installed

you just have the electrical supply and

the project has been the environmental

by Maziak Compressors, Parker’s

peripherals like the pipework to manage.”

impact Wells & Co have seen. The

distributor partner.

brewery’s carbon emissions have The system installed was a Nitro Source

reduced by 50 tonnes per year, so their

N2-25PALY rated @ >23m3/h, 500

partial conversion to nitrogen represents

ppm @ 8 barg food grade nitrogen

the single biggest factor in reducing the

unit. Ancillaries included a 55 hectolitre

brewery’s carbon output.

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

53

GREAT BEYOND

THE NEXT EPISODE O

WHAT DO YOU GET WHEN YOU COMBINE THREE BEER-LOVING FRIENDS WHO ALSO HAPPEN TO BE EXPERIENCED BREWERS? COMBINE THIS WITH A FANTASTIC LONDON LOCATION AND A COMMITMENT TO PRODUCING AND SERVING THE FRESHEST, TASTIEST BEERS, YOU HAVE ONE OF THE LATEST ADDITIONS TO THE CAPITAL’S EVERCHANGING BREWING SCENE. AND IT’S A SCENE THAT’S ALL THE BETTER FOR HAVING THEM PART OF IT, TOO.

54

|

SPRING 2023

pening your own

“I think many brewers kind of dream

brewery, at any point is

about opening a brewery one day and,

time, comes with its own

in that sense, I’ve been thinking about it

challenges and hurdles

for probably close to 12 years, I guess,”

to overcome. Just ask

he recalls. “But I started to think about it

the countless outfits that had COVID to

more seriously probably two years ago.

contend with, weeks and months, after

And like many people during COVID,

slinging open their doors.

when did a lot of reflecting.”

And in the current economic climate, things probably aren’t much easier, to

Prior to starting Great Beyond Brewing

say the least. But people are thirsty, and

Company Driebergen was working

there remains an insatiable appetite for

at Fourpure, based in Bermondsey,

excellent, locally-made produce.

London. A business that was acquired by Australasian brewing firm Lion and was

Which is conveniently exactly what John,

subsequently sold to In Good Company

Ollie and Nick, the co-founders of Great

Brewing, alongside Magic Rock, last

Beyond Brewing Company specialise in.

summer.

The brewery, which launched with a soft

“I found the transition from working for

opening last November, is founded by

an independent craft brewery to a larger

a trio that take pride in their work, their

one (Lion) and the corporate ownership

community, and their values, while the

that came with that quite difficult on a

team’s approach to brewing emphasises

cultural level. But I also appreciated the

quality, sustainability, and creativity.

job security during COVID, and I learned

And in Great Beyond Brewing Company

a lot in that period, too,” says Driebergen.

they are treading the path many of their

He adds: “But the pandemic gave me

peers have done before - setting out on

time to think. I started to speak to Ollie

their own into the wild world of brewery

Parker, my then Fourpure colleague, and

ownership.

the conversations become more serious.

Nick Walsh, who was also at Fourpure,

Speaking to co-founder John Driebergen,

then came on board.

he tells us about his love of brewing

“It was a long road, using evenings and

and his desire for Great Beyond Brewing

weekends to plan the business, raise

Company to become part of the fabric

the money we’d need, source a location

of East London, as well as the team’s

and the equipment that could eventually

experiences working in the the industry

call that location home. It has been

and the lessons they’ve learned along

like working two full-time jobs at once

the way.

for the last two years. So the irony of finally opening during a perfect storm,

BREWERS JOURNAL

GREAT BEYOND BREWING COMPANY economically, is not lost on us!”

unlicensed premises in England or

Great Beyond Brewing Company would

Wales.) “It slowed us down somewhat

in London. We are very proud to be a

open on Union Walk in London. An

and meant we couldn’t exit our “soft

brewery in this city.”

enviable location in Shoreditch, minutes

launch” phase until later than planned. It

from Hoxton Overground station and the

probably slowed our momentum a fair bit

Early batches of Hoxton Fresh, the DDH

countless bars and restaurants the area

but at the same time, the publicity that

Session IPA, has hit the right note with

has to offer. In opening in the vicinity, a

campaign gave us had its benefits, too.”

both the team and consumers alike.

“We’re really happy with it so haven’t

taproom offering is at the heart of the brewery.

According to Driebergen, the petition

change much so far,” says Driebergen. “It

“As a new brewery, our business model

painted “a picture of a business that

has a really lovely, soft, pillowy mouthfeel

is ultimately about having a small core

is nothing like ours”. It made it sound

and full saturation without any kind of

range based on Hoxton Fresh (4% DDH

like the brewery was going to be

hop burn or harsh notes. To us, it’s very

Session IPA), Hoxton Lager (4.4% English

extremely loud and noisy, and open

balanced, really aromatic and we love it.

Keller Lager), Gluten-Free West Coast

all night. Understandably, with those

We hope it’s going to be a great sort of

(4.4% Pale Ale) and a sour beer, too,” he

flagship product for us”

explains. “Our business model is to sell

While early iterations of Hoxton Lager

as much beer as we can via the taproom

has been brewed as an English Keller

and to also have keg and can product

Lager, the team see that moving to more

to sell locally and also really anywhere

of a seasonal brew in the future, with the

within the M25.

core beer being more of a German Keller

“But those direct sales through the taproom are incredibly important, especially as it helps us absorb the rising costs we are facing. Cost pressures are affecting us like everyone else. That said, in starting this brewery, the greatest challenge to-date was securing that premises license.”

And like many new businesses know, securing the relevant licenses is all-important and it’s not always straightforward, either, as the team would find out.

“In working our notice periods at Fourpure, and using every spare moment here, we outsourced as premises license to an expert,” recalls Driebergen.

But, if I’m honest, the consultant didn’t put together a great application and it

Direct sales through the taproom are incredibly important, especially as it helps us absorb the rising costs we are facing,” John Driebergen, Great Beyond Brewing Company

Lager. “We’re going to experiment and see how it goes,” he says. “The great thing about running our own brewery is the ability to experiment and innovate.”

And with the taproom offering, the team have the ability to produce a growing number of other beer styles for consumers to enjoy “We want to keep the taproom fun and interesting and that means always having new small-batch beers available,” explains Driebergen. “We can brew a 10HL batch of a beer to serve at the taproom and if it performs well, we can always look to package it for the trade.”

Some of the first small batch beers to see the light of day include Cherise, a 7% Cherry Sour with Oak Chips & Tonka Beans as well as The Raspberry Incident,

was subsequently denied by Hackney

a 4.4% Raspberry Sour. The latter was an

Council. It didn’t help that there was a fair amount of organised opposition to

early accusations in mind, there were

early example of the team learning as

the brewery from an adjacent property

some that were reluctant to support the

they go.

developer, either.”

opening. But with those needless fears allayed, there ended up being hundreds

“In making that beer, we sourced

The developer in questioned financed

of local residents and employees ready

fresh fruit that is flash frozen after it’s

a campaign with a petition that targeted

and eager for the brewery to pour those

harvested. Assuming they’d be sealed,

local residents and also surrounding

first beers (and other beverages, too).

we left them in the cold store overnight

neighbourhood buildings and

“We are already seeing visitors from

but in doing so, they defrosted and the

businesses. The aim was to stop the

across the board, which is great as we are

place looked like a murder scene. It

brewery opening but, thankfully, it failed.

a London-based brewery and need that

smelled amazing, though!” he laughs.

He looks back: “There were expensive

local love,” he says. “We are also grateful

“Our general manager Nick was the poor

legal fees that we didn’t anticipate but

to the support from local businesses like

guy that had to clean it up but at least we

following a second application, our

Howl at the Moon (neighbourhood pub),

had a beer name as a result.”

license was granted. Even so, we had to

TT Liquor (cocktail bar) and Kill The Cat

Ingredients such as peanuts and

initially open with a TEN. (A Temporary

(craft beer bar and bottle shop).

marshmallows have also been additions

Event Notice is required if you want

“We live in London, we love living in

to their beers, the latter being vegan so

to carry out a ‘licensable activity’ on

London and we want to keep living

that the brewery can ensure each beer

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

57

GREAT BEYOND BREWING COMPANY

they produce remains vegan-friendly.

“Then came the acquisition by Lion,

And in Great Beyond Brewing Company,

“We don’t compromise on the quality

which really changed the culture of the

a brewery he’s helped start, he is

of the ingredients, but we also price the

business and I think it suffered from a

confident and bullish about the road

beers accordingly at the taproom, and I

bit of an identity crisis. Lots of decisions

ahead.

think that’s fair,” he adds.

were made that impacted on all parts of the brewery.”

John, Ollie and Nick are no strangers

“I really believe in Great Beyond Brewing Company, in every way,” he says. “I

to collaborations, and working with

Despite this, he is proud of the work he

feel that we have the location and the

other brewers. They met while working

did at the business and he’s also grateful

business model, while the beer is great.

at Bermondsey-based Fourpure, with

for the wealth of colleagues and friends

And I think that we can only get better.”

John part of the team there for nearly a

he made along the way.

decade before making the leap last year.

Driebergen adds: “But I also know that,

And he values the experiences he had

“I met so many fantastic people and

in the short term, like many other small

during that time.

have so many great memories of my

independent craft breweries, our focus

time there. There are also some brilliant

is on survival. We are thrilled with the

“When it started, it was a really exciting

people that are still part of that business,

support we’ve had already and we only

place to work. It was fast-paced

too,” he recalls. “We can sometimes

want to build on that. We will survive, and

with rapid growth and that’s always

forget that when a brewery gets bought

then we will thrive.”

challenging, but also thrilling,” says

by a big multinational, it doesn’t mean

Driebergen. “We were pouring our beer

that all of the team are suddenly bad

everywhere, and then we secured a

people that no longer have that passion

supermarket listing that was great for

for what they do.”

Photos: Great Beyond Brewing Company

the business but probably less so for the brand. Though I think it was an important

At Fourpure, Driebergen saw a London-

one to make, too.

based brewery start, grow and evolve.

58

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

Quality assurance in minutes rather than days

Sysmex is proud to introduce our innovative, rapid solution, specifically developed for use in industrial microbiology testing environments.

Proven for a variety of microbial applications such as yeast viability, total bacteria and viable bacteria Delivers productivity, standardisation and simplicity on a single platform Provides accurate enumeration of microorganisms in comparison to traditional assays such as plating and microscopy The perfect solution for process control in distilling, brewing and beverage-producing industries For further information or to request a virtual product demonstration, please email flowcytometry@sysmex.co.uk

uk.sysmex-flowcytometry.com

SUK CyFlow Distillery advert 190x125 EN.indd 1

Sysmex UK Flow Cytometry

08/11/2022 17:03:26

HYGIENE

THE CAREFUL AND THE CURIOUS

FOR KENT-BASED CURIOUS BREWERY, MAINTAINING OPTIMUM HYGIENE STANDARDS IS AT THE VERY TOP OF THEIR AGENDA. HERE CHRISTEYNS FOOD HYGIENE, EXPLAIN THE ROLE THEY’VE PLAYED IN THAT JOURNEY.

60

|

SPRING 2023

O

ur reason for being is to

the UK’s best lager, IPA and cider. Their

inspire people to stay

journey began through the Kent-based

curious. To question. To

winemaker Chapel Down who introduced

celebrate. To smile more.

their first beer product in 2011, Curious

To never graduate from

Brew lager. Initially, as there was no

the school of life. This is the opening

brewery on site, Chapel Down contracted

greeting on independent, award-winning

out production, first to Everards and

Curious Brewery’s homepage. And yes, it

then to Fullers. In April 2021 Risk Capital

does make you curious to know more.

Partners, (RCP), purchased Curious in

As the craft beer market becomes

what set out as a passion-led project for

increasingly competitive, it is even more

their CEO, Luke Johnson.

important to stand out from the pack.

The site for the brewery in Kent was

This means consistently creating and

purchased in late 2017 and doors to the

producing outstanding product. We talk

brand new brewery opened on May 10,

to Wesley Lynch, Head of Production at

2019. The project cost around £16m with

Ashford-based Curious Brewery as to

an addition of £6m equipment sourced

how they achieve this.

from around the globe, including

Curious is a fully independent brewery,

fermentation vessels from Austria and

run by brewers and focused on making

the Brew House from China.

BREWERS JOURNAL

HYGIENE As of Summer 2022, the brewery has

honour, the Miss Ellen Adams, with her

our game and ensure a pristine brewing

brewed approx. 7.5 million pints. Their

Grandson officially opening the facility

environment.

biggest seller and flagship beer is

in 2019. So, what makes Curious Brew

I wasn’t happy with the level of service

Curious Brew Lager which boasts a

different? Lynch explains in more detail.

I was being provided by our hygiene

clean, fruity, and aromatic finish. During

“We may brew lagers, but they aren’t

partner and wanted a more personal

the summer months Curious Apple, an

your standard lagers. We want to brew

connection. Anyone can supply

aromatic cider fermented with Bacchus

characterful beer which celebrates the

chemicals but it’s the knowledge and

wine yeast, is not far behind.

ingredients that go into it. We use a

the friendly face behind it that are really

There is also a Curious Session IPA

lot of hops in our products which gives

valuable.

brewed with three complementary hops

us a more flavourful product once it’s

What I discovered is that Christeyns

and their newest product, Kentish Pilsner

finished. We may no longer have the

Food Hygiene really goes the extra mile

brewed in celebration of Kent’s hop-

winemaking connection through Chapel

to encourage their account managers

growing heritage, was launched in 2022.

Down, but what we want to celebrate

to work closely with clients. They

It’s not just the beer though that makes

is the provenance of Kent and the hops

make time for proper visits and have a

you curious, even the name of the Brew-

grown here.

good reporting structure with audits to

House gets you asking questions.

We have been gradually shifting more

highlight areas that need attention from

and more of the hops used in our brews

hygiene to chemical safety. They visit

The original brewery site was home to

to locally sourced ones. This has a great

monthly as a minimum and produce a

a primary school and in 1943 one very

impact on sustainability as well as the

detailed report about any findings or

smart and forward-thinking teacher, a

freshness of the ingredients we use.

recommendations. In the past we have

Miss Ellen Adams, saved the school’s

Fresher hops help make fresher beers

found with other suppliers that they do

pupils and staff from a bombing raid

with bright, citrusy flavours.

the bare minimum to keep the contract and don’t necessarily value us in the

that flattened the school and most of

same way as some larger clients.

Ashford’s railway lines too. On hearing

The addition of champagne yeast and

distant air raid sirens Miss Adams

Nelson Sauvin hops means we have a

promptly escorted all the pupils to the air

lot more hops to clean out at the end

Since using CFH we have done a lot of

raid shelter where they stayed safe and

of our processes. The physical debris is

work on our brewhouse CIP procedures.

sound.

always a challenge and a good hygiene

We standardised and validated the

Hence the Brew House is named in her

partner is crucial to help us stay on top of

process and ended up with a much

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

61

HYGIENE Not one to rest on their laurels, Curious are firmly set on the future and working on several initiatives.

The brewery recently purchased Wild Beer Co. from administration and are now in the process of working with their brewer and founder to bring those beers online at the Curious site. Although still in the early days this will mean new challenges with a lot more beer and many different styles. From a hygiene perspective, their famous Wild, or sour beer, can only be produced in an environment with impeccable hygiene standards.

Sustainability is a personal focus for Lynch this year. As well as looking at shortening raw material supply chains the brewery now sends spent grain to aerobic digestion rather than animal feed.

There are also discussions underway with a local hop farmer about taking the used hops as potential fertiliser for next year’s hop crop which diverts it away from the drain.

Negotiations are under way with a new waste supplier to improve the brewery’s recycling programme and they are also looking into CO2 recovery, solar panels, and electric vehicles.

He concludes: “It’s a really exciting time and we have a ton of work to do to improve, but if we want to keep sourcing Kentish hops and British malt then we need to do our part to look after the farmers growing those crops. At the end of the day beer is a natural product and we need nature to provide – something which is looking increasingly challenging as climate change takes its toll. better result. As this is one area where

I look for an account manager I can

malt and hops and heat make the

get along with and good service

CFH has always been supportive of

equipment that much harder to clean, it

and expertise in a chemical supplier.

using less chemical and optimising how

has been an invaluable improvement for

Chemicals are just chemicals at the end

we use it – this is counterintuitive for

us.

of the day – it’s how they are used that

them as it means we would purchase

We have also installed an automatic

counts. Having a supplier that knows best

less, but that’s a mark of a good supplier

testing and dosing unit for the detergent

practice (and particularly safe practice!)

who looks after their customers and

on our keg washer/filler. This has allowed

that matters. We work with Justin Adams

the environment as a whole rather than

us to have much more confidence in the

at Christeyns and he has carried out

always selling more.”

cleanliness of our kegs before they are

numerous chemical handling training

In 2019 Curious won the UK Brewer of the

filled. Dirty kegs have a huge impact on

sessions with my team as well, so they

Year award and Gold medal at the World

beer quality and can lead to sourness

are knowledgeable about the risks they

Beer Awards for their product Curious

and haze, so this is one of our key areas

are taking on. Health and safety is always

Brew. The brewery continues to go from

for brewery hygiene.

at the top of our list – followed closely by

strength-to-strength.

quality.”

62

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

www.kanegrade.com Tel: +44 (0) 1438 742242 Email: info@kanegrade.com

NATURAL FOOD INGREDIENTS Kanegrade_Advert_185mm W x 120mm H.indd 1

13/11/2019 11:10

Gravity Systems was formed to meet the growing demand in the craft beer market for a single source for all brewhouse, fermentation, services generation and distribution. It is our aim to be the most complete partner in the brewery industry by building long term partnerships with our customers.

+44 (0) 1733 834264 | www.gravity-systems.co.uk

KOMBUCHA

IS KOMBUCHA YOUR THING? DONEGALBASED SYNERCHI KOMBUCHA RECENTLY COMMISSIONED A NEW AUTOMATIC BOTTLING LINE “TO BE PROUD OF”. THIS IS HOW, AND WHY, THEY DID IT.

64

|

SPRING 2023

S

ynerChi is Ireland’s original

A packaged carbonator supplied by

Kombucha brewery.

Enterprise Tondelli is used to carbonate

Established in 2012, they

the final drinks with fine bubbles giving

have been based in their

a velvety mouth feel. The carbonator

own custom, state of the

uses an in-line with flow meter control for

art, BRCGS A++ facility in Gweedore, Co.

accurate CO2 dosing and a stabilisation

Donegal since 2013. In that time they

tank prior to filling all mounted on a

have created more than 20 Irish local jobs

stainless-steel skid. Also supplied is a

in the community. SynerChi are certified

Cimec rotary rinser, counterpressure

by The Organic Trust to produce organic

filler and crowner mounted on the same

products.

stainless steel base frame to ensure high

Of their process, the company said “Our

product hygiene. To enhance shelf life

unique micro-brewing craftsmanship

and potentially colour retention a double

produces authentic live kombucha in

bottle pre-evacuation system is used

small batches and without the use of any

with a final injection of CO2.

artificial additives or preservatives. We have nurtured our culture and carefully

As this is a ‘live’ product cleaning in place

blended the finest organic teas and

is also very important and the filler has

tisanes resulting in a perfect synergy of

special stainless steel dummy bottles.

natural ingredients.”

For improved worker safety caps are loaded into a hopper at low level and

If you don’t know what kombucha is,

then automatically delivered to the high-

then read on. Kombucha is a fermented

level cap unscrambler by a pneumatic

tea product that is “live” and is generally

pipe system.

made from green tea that is fermented with a “SCOBY” - an acronym for

A two tank CIP set with flow and return

‘Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast’.

pumps and electrically heated tank ensure the system is cleaned effectively

The product is then enhanced with such

with a control panel with timers and

natural flavours such as ginger, raspberry

temperature settings. Conveyors from

and apple. There are purported health

Enterprise Tondelli partner Euro Sistemi

benefits from the probiotic bacteria in

Srl complete the line to give a turnkey

the product and this market continues to

project.

grow rapidly. Allegedly kombucha culture can even be dried into bacterial cellulose

Seamus McGowan, factory manager of

and then moulded into forms to create

SynerChi, explained: “We are very happy

seamless clothing!

with the line supplied and commissioned

by Enterprise Tondelli. The result of

The bottling line from Enterprise Tondelli

our collaboration together has been a

consists of a de-palletising station

bottling line to be proud of, giving us

feeding a rotary three station labeller. The

gains in efficiency and consistent high-

labeller from BRB Globus in Italy is fitted

quality production.”

with servo motor driven bottle platforms so that any future labelling combinations

Garry Wilson, senior project manager for

can be accommodated.

Enterprise Tondelli added: “It has been a pleasure working with Seamus and his

The bottles are labelled before filling

team on this small but interesting project.

as the drinks are carbonated and filled

By good cooperation the very best

cold. This strategy avoids labelling on

outcome has been achieved.”

to bottles with condensation and allows

Enterprise Tondelli said they are very

more accurate labelling and better

proud to be associated with SynerChi

product presentation.

and continue to work in partnership with both small and large producers.

BREWERS JOURNAL

BIOTRANSFORM YOUR BEER WITH OUR THIOL-RELEASING YEAST BLEND. An all-natural, non-GMO yeast blend with high biotransformation capabilities, resulting in the perfect blend of tropical aromas and flavors. www.whitelabs.com

Contact us: orderscph@whitelabs.com

Phone +45 3161 5142

Photo : Christian CREUTZ

Mechanical closures producer

8 Rue Gutenberg • 67120 Duttlenheim Tél. : (33) 03 88 66 36 36 Email : order@edard.com

+44 (0)1733 371 221 contact@josephflach.co.uk

Trusted Global Supplier of Wholesale Botanicals and Related Products Since 1882

Joseph Flach & Sons Ltd can supply your business, in bulk, with a vast range of high quality botanical products, herbs, spices and related plant products. Our products are sourced from quality, trusted suppliers around the globe and are backed up with our deep and long experience and our exceptional customer service.

HOSE

SOLVING DISSOLVED OXYGEN HEADACHES

THE WYNDRIDGE FARM CRAFT BREWERY AND CIDERY HAD AN URGENT PROBLEM THAT NEEDED TO BE SOLVED BEFORE IT COULD FULFILL A LARGE ORDER. THIS IS HOW THE FAMILYOWNED BUSINESS, SET IN BUCOLIC YORK COUNTY, PENNSYLVANIA, GOT RID OF THEIR HEADACHE.

brewersjournal.info

T

he Wyndridge Farm craft

will degrade the quality and taste of

brewery and cidery is not

the final product and shorten shelf life.

only a popular destination

Mitigating the risk of exposure to oxygen

with its restaurant and beer

is especially critical during the packaging

garden events, but it also

process that transfers the beer to cans,

serves as a contract manufacturer of craft

bottles, or kegs.

beer, hard cider, hard seltzer, and non-

“High levels of DO can reduce the

alcoholic beverages.

shelf life to less than three months,

“We detected unacceptably high levels

especially with IPAs where the effect of

of dissolved oxygen, a problem we

oxygen on the hops character is quite

urgently needed to cor-rect prior to

noticeable,” said Topel. “Ensuring a long

packaging an order for 21,000 cases of

shelf life is always important, but was

craft beer from a European wholesaler,”

absolutely necessary for this European

explained Scott Topel, the Beverage

order because the product would have

Production Manager at Wyndridge.

to be shipped across the ocean and pass through customs prior to being

LEAKY HOSES

distributed to stores and homes.

“We were able to diagnose the problem

Managing the level of dissolved oxygen

by taking measurements all along the

(DO) is an essential part of the art and

production line. DO readings before and

science of brewing beer. After the

after the silicone hoses in the can-filling

fermentation process is complete, the

machine allowed us to pinpoint the

presence of elevated levels of oxygen

location of the oxygen pick up. After a

SPRING 2023

|

67

HOSING

IMPROVING QUALITY AND EXTENDING SHELF LIFE “We received the Fabline hoses in the nick of time,” said Topel. “Within a day, we were able to reduce our dissolved oxygen levels from 100-150 parts per billion to well under 50, and therefore we were quite relieved to be able to ship the European order on time.”

The decision to replace the silicone hoses was originally driven by the need to reduce DO levels in order to preserve product quality and extend shelf life. After installation, the new Fabline hoses have brought other important benefits as well.

REDUCING PRODUCT LOSS The new hoses have significantly reduced product loss in two different ways. The first reduction occurs continuously. With silicone hoses, at a microscopic level, there is enough undulation to cause some turbulence of carbonated products, making them foam over continually, resulting in a cumulative loss of 4% of the product to the ground. The FaBLINE hoses, with their smooth, circular bore, have reduced this High levels of DO can reduce the shelf life to less than three months, especially with IPAs.

type of loss to 2.3%.

A second way that the Fabline hose reduces loss occurs during the startup of the hard cider can-filling process.

Previously, with the silicone hoses, it was necessary to bring the temperature of the lines down to below 40° F to avoid

lot of research, we found that silicone

handling while simultaneously offering an

generating foam.

hoses actually do allow some measure of

exceptionally long service life.

A scale measures the weight of each

permeability.”

The design allows the PTFE liner

filled can, and if it contains too much

to expand around the outside and

foam, the can is automatically discarded

compress around the inside of a bend.

— resulting in a loss of 2.5 or 3 cases at

This helps to retain a smooth circular

the beginning of each run. Now, with

Topel reached out to Bill Winard, the

bore throughout the hose, without

the FaBLINE hoses, the cider can move

U.S. Business Development Manager

distortion, resulting in smooth, consistent

through the filling machine at 40-43° F

at Aflex Hose, a division of Watson-

flow with minimal turbulence.

without generating foam. Only one or two

Marlow Fluid Technology Solutions

This construction is ideal for the repetitive

cans are now discarded at the start of

(WMFTS), who visited the Wyndridge

up-and-down action of food and

each run.

facility and recommended Aflex’s new

beverage processing equipment, like

Topal said: “We replaced the hoses due

Fabline SI PTFE hose. As the FaBLINE

the can-filling machine at Wyndridge.

to an urgent need to bring down the

name denotes, the hoses are specifically

Laboratory tests have demonstrated

dissolved oxygen in our beer, and the

designed for the food and beverage

that the Fabline hose construction can

Fabline hoses immediately allowed us to

industry, including brewery applications.

withstand more than 100,000 cycles

achieve that goal. What we did not ex-

Developed to meet the latest hygiene

of repetitive action, with small bending

pect, but have come to really appreciate,

standards, the patented PTFE-lined hose

radii, at maximum working pressure,

is how the hoses have also allowed us to

with standard 316 stainless steel braid

compared to competitor hoses that fail

more smoothly run the canning operation

ensures efficient product transfer and

after less than 13,400 cycles.

for all our products, with much less waste.”

THE IDEAL BREWERY HOSE

68

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

Superior Quality Brewery System www.hikingbev.com info@hikingbev.com

SCIENCE

ANCIENT BREWING IN PLAIN SIGHT

IN HIS LATEST ARTICLE, TIM O’ROURKE TAKES AN IN-DEPTH LOOK AT SOME OF THE ANCIENT BREWING METHODS STILL TAKING PLACE ACROSS AFRICA.

70

|

SPRING 2023

T

he process of traditional

rendering them accessible to enzymic

African brewing has been

attack. Acidification drops the pH in

passed down by word of

the fermenter to less than 5.0 which is

mouth through generations.

suitable for the amylolytic enzymes.

Some of the equipment

u A separate portion of the grain is

may have changed but the basic

malted in the conventional way to

scientific principles of fermentation and

produce sprouted sorghum which is sun

mash conversion still hold true.

dried and milled and provides the source

Beers are made from locally grown

of starch hydrolysing enzymes.

cereals like sorghum, millet, rice, and

The brewer thoroughly mixes 4 parts of

maize which all have gelatinisation

the ground acidified cooked grain with

temperatures higher than malt (range 75

1 part of the malt at a ratio of 2.5 litres

– 95C) which are above the deactivation

of water to 1 kg grist and is transferred

temperature of malt starch hydrolysing

to a plastic barrel (a repurposed 200

enzymes.

litre plastic drum) for fermentation. The

This requires separate cooking and

volume is made up to the equivalent of 7

gelatinisation of the starch before cooling

litres of water to 1 kg grist.

to allow the enzymes to break the starch down to fermentable sugars.

The wort is fermented in recycled plastic

All the traditional brewers are faced with

detergent drums and wet sacks are

the same technical problem and each

attached to promote cooling. Typical

African country has developed their own

fermentations take around two days.

solutions. Below we will describe quite

During fermentation the enzymes break

different methods to produce beer in East

the starch to sugars allowing the bacteria

& West Africa.

and wild yeast from the malted grain and environment to ferment the wort

PRODUCTION OF AJON IN KAMPALA, UGANDA

producing a low alcohol beer.

Fermentation is carried out by a

Visiting a traditional Ajon Brewery

mixed population of micro-organisms

involved a meeting with Deo Lule, the

whose activity is largely controlled

head brewer of Uganda Breweries in

by the fall in pH. Moulds only making

Kampala.

a brief appearance at the start and is

Ajon splits mashing into two parts with

followed by the growth of lactic acid

the different grists being mixed together

bacteria. Bacterial growth falls away as

in the fermentation vessel. By splitting

the pH continues to drop allowing the

mash conversion, the brewer can

yeasts to flourish (particularly ale yeast

achieve all the required operations of

Saccharomyces cerevisiae sp.) and

mashing without needing an accurate

produce the alcohol.

thermometer.

The process involves: u Burying ground damp sorghum in the

PRODUCTION OF MBEGE IN MOSHI

soil to encourage the growth of lactic acid bacteria which acidifies the grain.

With the help of Matthew Manyaga and

u After a week the acidified grain is

members of the team from Diageo Kenya

dug up and baked on an open tray

and During a visit to the country, visits

to gelatenised the starch granules

to a sorghum maltings (steeping shown

BREWERS JOURNAL

ANCIENT BREWING

Ajon production Concentration of total reducing sugars in the fermentation mixture. Unlike conventional fermenta-tions the concentration of sugar increases at the start of the fermentation as the enzymes release sugars from starch found in the gelatinised grain.

Fall in pH during fermentation. The initial pH is lower than a normal brew because of the addition of the sour grains and continues to fall following the growth of lactic acid bacteria resulting in a lower final pH giving the beer a tart acidic/metallic flavour.

Microbial growth in a traditional fermentation. There is a rapid increase in acidity, which will halt am-ylase activity after the first 24 hours. The yeast fermentation then takes over to produce ethanol.

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

71

ANCIENT BREWING The process used for brewing (East African Uganda) is summarised on the left

yeast”, mixtures of yeasts and lactic acid bacteria. The predominant sugar extracted from the cereal is maltose and the most common yeast strain, Saccharomyces cerevisiae (top cropping Ale Yeast) is particularly well adapted to ferment “wort” and is the most prolific yeast variety found in any mixed culture fermentation.

Brewers go to great lengths to keep their source of yeast safe. For example, Belgium Lambic Brewers preserve their yeast and the microflora by not cleaning around their cooling and fermentation areas to preserve any microbes present and use wooden barrels infused with on the left) and a brewery in Moshi took

filtration stages to produce the wort for

micro-organisms.

place.

fermentation.

Tropical Brewers use clay pots which are

In Tanzania plantain (bananas) are

Ground Malted sorghum is mashed with

infused with microbes and become a

commonly used as an adjunct to

warm water at around 60C, (below the

source of inoculating the wort.

produce a fruitier beer. Traditionally beers

starch gelatinisation temperature) and

Both systems have limited capacity to

were bittered with quinine, but at this

supernatant is filtered to be stored as a

hold micro-organisms and fermentation

time the practice had ceased, as it was

source of malt enzymes. Gumbo (the sap

may be slower while yeast grow to

considered a health risk.

from the Triumfetta tree) is added as a

complete the fermentation. Other

Plantains are mashed and allowed to

clarification aid.

breweries practice repitching or “back

stand overnight where the banana juice

u The solid part of the mash (I)

slopping” by saving yeast from an earlier

concentrate acidifies, the extract is then

(remaining grain) is remashed and boiled

fermentation often by skimming the foam

squeezed out as shown below. This is

for two hours to gelatinise the starch and

and adding it to the next vessel to supply

mixed with a boiled malted sorghum

then left to cool for a day.

enough viable yeast to complete the

mash to give the required acidity needed

u The liquid part of the mash (II) is kept

process.

for mash conversion and fermentation.

separate and will be infected by natural

Examples of how yeast is preserved and

A handful of ground malted sorghum

airborne spoilage organisms (lactic acid

transferred between traditional brews:

is added to the fermenter to supply the

bacteria) and the pH will fall between

u In Uganda Ajon relies on microflora in

necessary enzymes.

4 – 5.

the brewery to inoculate the wort and

The rest of the brewing and fermentation

u Once the mash is cooled the two

since the wort is not boiled the sorghum

process is similar to that described for

liquids are combined and left to stand

added to the mash is also a source of

Ajon. The beer produced is quite thick

at round 60C to let the enzymes break

yeast and bacteria. The malted sorghum

and is usually drunk from cups which are

down the available starch to produce

is actually referred to as “yeast” by the

consumed in the adjacent bar.

fermentable sugars.

Brewers.

u The wort is allowed to cool to ambient

u In Tanzania the mash for Mbege is

circa 25 to 30 C and is filtered through the

boiled with handfuls of raw malt added

basket with a bed of dried grass before

to the cooled acidified banana juice

PRODUCTION OF BILI BILI IN N’DJAMENA (CHAD)

being collected for fermentation.

to provide the microbial inoculum to

Accompanied by Miaro Rismalo and my

This is similar to European style brewing

complete the fermentation.

brewing students we visited a Bili Bili

and produces a relatively bright wort

u In Chad the brewers of Bili Bili use a

brewery in the suburbs of N’Djamena

but has been adapted to meet the

process of back slopping. Good quality

in Chad which uses sorghum and

requirements to gelatinised sorghum.

Bili Bili has a good foam present on the drinking vessel and once consumed the

occasionally rice to brew beer. Chad is one of the poorest countries in Africa

YEAST & FERMENTATION

foam is collected by the server who uses it to repitch the next brew, perhaps not

and the affordability of the beer is important. Brewing Bili Bili is complicated

Traditional African beers rely on

the most hygienic of processes. This may

and involves a series of mashing and

spontaneous fermentation by “wild

be necessary since fermentation is now

72

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

ANCIENT BREWING Chad is home to Bili Bili, which uses sorghum and occasionally rice in the brew

in plastic containers rather than clay pots

receive their pay and traditional beer

as metal pots and plastic tubs often

and can no longer carry the microflora

(which cost about 1/5 of commercial

recovered from larger commercial

from one brew to another.

beers) until the next paycheck. The

brewing have replaced many of the more

traditional beer is something of an

fragile ce-ramic and wooden vessels.

acquired taste. The cost of a litre of beer

Acknowledgement: I would like to thank

in Tanzania is 10c US - around a 1/10 cost

my local mentors and guides Dea Lule

of regular lager.

and Okelai John Ariko from Diageo

HERITAGE & BEER DRINKING Drinking beer was an important part of

Breweries Uganda, Matthew Manyaga

early cultures often based on rituals and ceremonies. With the introduction

BEER TASTE AND QUALITY

from Diageo Moshi Brewery Tanzania, Luis Tamio Supply Chain Director and

of European style beers many of the ceremonial functions have been stripped

Beer quality is important, most traditional

Miaro Rismalo Head Brewer Brasserie

away and Traditional Beers have been

beers have a short shelf-life, staying fresh

Castel Chad Brewer-ies as well as all

relegated to the low-cost end of the

for just a few days. The beer is usually

my students in who all supported and

market offering a more affordable source

drunk fresh in the brewery. The presence

accompanied me in the brewery visits

of alcohol.

of beer foam is considered to be a good

and research.

Much is made about the ceremonial

indicator of quality.

importance of “drinking through straws”

Similarities between current practices in

Citations and Further Reading

shown in most images and carving of

Traditional brewing and those captured

1) Nicholas P Money “The Rise of Yeast”

beer drinking in Africa and the Middle

on early pottery show just how little has

pub Oxford University Press 2018

East. While this may be an important

changed with the passage of time. It is

2) Matthew A Carrigan “Why do we drink

aspect of the beer drinking in some

possible to relate the current brewing

alcohol” presented at British Academy

cultures my observations suggest that

practices with those shown in models

London 2018.

drinking through straws was restricted to

and friezes many thousands of years old.

3) Tim O’Rourke “Brewing up the Past”

unfiltered beers such as Ajon to separate

The similarities between the ancient

Brewer International Volume 2 Issue 9 2002

the husk residue from the liquid but

and modern brewing practices and beer

4) Michaela Charles, Tasha Marka and

filtered beers such as Mbege and Bili Bili

drinking are striking, making it a good

Susan Boyle “A sip of Ancient Egyptian

are drunk directly from a cup or gourd.

way of appreciating ancient brewing

Beer part of Pleas-ant vice series”, Blog

In Africa traditional beer amounts to

methods which have been passed on by

and video https://www.facebook.com/

about a third of the total volume of beer

word of mouth and still being practiced

britishmuseum/videos/ancient-egyptian-

produced and is generally consumed by

today.

beer/754992025293909/

the less well-off citizens. Many working

While practices remain unaltered over

5) Ian Hornsey “Taming the Yeast” Brewer &

people drink European Beers after they

the centuries, new materials such

Distiller International June 2011

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

73

HOMEBREW HERO: ANDY PARKER

HOMEBREW CORNER

In 2023, Elusive Brewing will celebrate its seventh birthday. Next issue we speak to the team about how the business has grown and evolved in that time. So it’s the perfect opportunity now to revisit those early, formative days of the brewery founded by Andy Parker and why homebrewing will always be in this blood.

T

he 8th September 2018 was something of a milestone for Andy Parker. His business, Elusive Brewing, was busy pouring its beers for the thousands of thirsty patrons at the second annual Beavertown Extravaganza event in London.

Breweries from across the globe were invited to attend and, for that festival, Andy’s particular neighbours were none other

Andy Par ker, Elusive B founder, rewing

than Paso Robles, California-based Firestone Walker. Nearly five and a half thousand miles (5410, to be exact) separate those two very different breweries but on those two days, they were pouring as equals.

And for someone that discovered beers from breweries such as Sierra Nevada and Anchor Brewing during his time living on the West Coast of the USA twenty years previously, it’s hard to imagine the juxtaposition of breweries over that weekend was lost on him.

targets so my wife Jane asked me: ‘Well, what do you want to

But with that done and dusted however, life goes on. And for

do’, so we decided to add some more tank capacity to grow

Parker, speaking to us in the autumn of 2018, that involved

into. We’ve been running at full capacity ever since.”

attending the launch of your new book, conducting a live brew

These two years have been something of a whirlwind for

in Kent as part of Tunbridge Wells beer week, speaking at

Parker and Elusive Brewing. Year two saw the brewery pro-

our own Brewers Lectures in Bristol and, of course, brewing,

duce 50hl each month, a marked increase on the 30hl it was

selling and distributing many, many beers in-between.

producing during the 12 months prior.

There’s something romantic about owning and running your

He explains that a firm eye on planning enabled the business

own business, but when you are the business, then working

to keep costs in check so rent and rates remained a manage-

the hours of 9 to 5 that Dolly Parton famously sang about are

able percentage of their revenue.

something of a pipe dream. For now, at least.

“I’m quite analytical and early on we were very systematic and

“These last 12 months have been great, but the whole expe-

went about executing the plan we had in place. It sounds all

rience has been very different from the 12 that came before

very corporate but we are not very corporate at all!” he laughs.

them,” he explains.

“It was more that we had longer than initially planned before

Elusive Brewing had recently turned two, and much like the

moving in, so we were able to map everything out. Year two

famed second album syndrome in music, it has been some-

was more about growth and getting to where we needed to

thing of a learning experience, albeit a positive one.

be.”

“In our first year, every little detail was mapped out. We knew

Elusive has achieved that, too. Sales were up 50% at the end

what events we wanted to attend, the beers we wanted to

of their second financial year and the need to brew more beer,

brew, and everything in the middle. Thankfully, we hit all of our

without growing too large, is on the agenda. Bigger prem-

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

75

HOMEBREW CORNER ises both locally and a little further afield are being looked at. There is still the possibility it will remain on the Hogwood Industrial Estate it shares with Siren Craft Brew, just in a larger unit. Either way, Parker is firm on remaining in Berkshire. Once that move does happen, however, he sees the investment in double-size FVs as the immediate investment, long before the brewery’s brewhouse is replaced.

Although Parker has only been brewing professionally for little more than two years, he’s been a regular part of the London and UK beer scene. He is also known for being a super nice guy, too.

“I’m not sure where the reputation for me being a really nice guy came,” he smiles. “It’s also not a bad thing though, of course, and it’s much better being known as that rather than the biggest d*ck head in the industry!”

He explains: “I’ve spent the last 10 years or as part of the beer industry. Whether that was through attending events to nag brewers and learn from them or to bring some of my homebrew to places like the Indy Man Beer Con for feedback.

“I remember some early Magic Rock takeovers in London and then going up to Halloween events in North Bar, Leeds, and chatting to people thinking about how much of a cool industry

anot) stiny (Eku e D f o e r Sphe 4.4% ABV

it was and how it was something I wanted to be part of.”

One such person that stood out for Parker then, is Gregg Irwin,

to, I also probably knew in person. With that, you’d understand

formerly of Weird Beard and then of Fourpure.

each other’s tone, humour and everything that comes with it.

Things have grown so you no longer have that personal dia-

“I remember it was in August 2011 and there was a pre-GBBF

logue as much. Don’t get me wrong, social media has helped

Kernel tap takeover at Cask Pimlico, a night on which I’d also

beer in a major way. It has helped it grow and I won’t have

affirm my love of Saison,” he explains. “We’d go on to become

discovered breweries like Magic Rock without it.

good friends, but that night, Gregg certainly planted some

“Beer Merchants were also one of the first accounts I ever

seeds as he talked about the beers he’d created at home and

followed and they introduced me to breweries like Mikkeller,

his aspirations to brew commercially. He was, and remains, a

so it’s really helped increase awareness but that said it can be

huge inspiration to me personally, especially when I’d call up

hard to switch off from it sometimes.

asking up on advice on how the hell I do something or other.”

“The same applies if something like Untappd. You can be out That would not be the end of the role Craft Beer Co played

with your mates watching football and your phone buzzes

in Elusive’s creation, either. In 2014, Parker scooped The Craft

with a check-in from someone saying your beer is rubbish.

Beer Co’s National Home Brewer award. He was rewarded

It can put a dampener on things but at the same time, that

with a cash prize and also, the chance to brew on a commer-

rating could be a positive one, so it’s a two-way street. You

cial level with Sussex-based Dark Star Brewing.

want to feel like you’re engaged and maintain a dialogue, but

His ‘Level Up American Red’ was born and other beers, such

it’s a case of recognising limits too.” Beers like its Level Up

as Lord Nelson with Weird Beard, Dinner for One at Siren

American Red, and Plan-B Belgian Pale have resonated with

Craft Brew, and Lemon Head with Wild Weather Ales. Since

a diverse section of drinkers. From those that exclusively drink

it launched its profile on popular ratings site and app Un-

cask in haunts such as The Harp, a venerable pub in Cov-

tappd back at the end of 2012, 125 beers have been tagged,

ent Garden, to modern keg drinkers in bars across the land.

checked-in and enjoyed. Most of the time…

People have also taken notice of the brewery’s branding too, a nod to the gaming eras of times gone by cherished by Parker.

“The industry has obviously changed a great deal in recent years. Of course, there are an increasing amount of breweries

“I don’t think we’ll ever move away from that style of branding,

and that change has been for the better in terms of quality

but I also think it can do a lot more for us, too. It needs to be

improving,” says Parker. “A lot of that has been driven by a

at the front of what we’re doing. We will start canning later this

smaller businesses improving their processes as they grow.

year though and with that, we’ll work with talented individuals

But there are aspects I also enjoy less.”

to revamp our artwork. I’m excited to see what they can with

He adds “Look at beer Twitter. Back in the day, anyone I spoke

the canvas a can presents,” Parker explains.

76

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

HOMEBREW CORNER

Essential Homebrewing

The launch also allowed him to do what he does best, chat

And more recently, Andy Parker has been working on a

unlike to change any time soon, or ever.

with people about beer, over a beer. That’s something that’s

canvas of a different kind. A year on from helping edit the UK edition of CAMRA’s Home-Brewing Problem Solver book, he

“We’ve never wanted Elusive Brewing to be a big business,

proudly launched a title he co-wrote with Graham Wheeler,

and it won’t be. I don’t want to be a people manager again be-

CAMRA’s Essential Homebrewing.

cause I had enough of that in a previous career. The way I see

Pitched as a pocket guide for both old hands and novice

it, I can imagine Elusive being a team of three or four people

homebrewers, the book identifies a dozen former homebrew-

at most because I want to keep things personal.” he explains.

ers who have taken the leap to brew professionally.

“As long as we can do that, while maybe selling a bit of beer

“Home brewing has enjoyed a similar resurgence, mirroring

out of the front door, I’d be happy.

this growth in the number of commercial brewing operations, and today’s home brewer enjoys access to the same quality

“Doing so would put us in a good position and things would

and range of ingredients as the professional with a vast num-

be a bit more viable than they are now. At the moment we are

ber of options when it comes to selecting equipment,” says

a one a half person business and we work long hours.

Parker.

“It’s not about getting rich and much bigger, it’s about looking

“I’m really happy with how it turned out. It’s strange to think

after a small team and making beer that people enjoy.”

that I started in this field as a hobby and to be in this position a few years later, doing it professionally and writing a book about it. It’s very rewarding, and a bit mad!”

The book was launched at the Beer Merchants tap bar in Hackney Wick this summer. Somewhat fitting, considering the role the Beer Merchants played in introducing Parker to various breweries.

DESCALING

CLEANING & DISINFECTION

CONVEYOR LUBRICATION

CLEANING ADDITIVES

BIOFILM PREVENTION

T: 01925 234696 risteyns.com E: uk-foodinfo@ch Winwick Quay, 2 Cameron Court, WA2 8RE Warrington, Cheshire

brewersjournal.info

WWW.CHRISTEYNS.COM

SPRING 2023

|

77

HOMEBREW CORNER

HERE’S MY BEER | BRAVE NOISE

Last month Elusive Brewing launched its Brave Noise Beer. Here’s how you can make your own.

F

recipe which has been brewed across the world. It features Mosaic, Sabro and Talus hops kindly donated by Barth Haas X. Ruth Mitchell, managing director of Elusive Brewing said: “There has been much talk about the issues faced by women and minorities in the beer industry over the past few years but

inchampstead, Berkshire-based Elusive Brewing

very little action, especially in the UK. All too often people are

recently brewed a Brave Noise beer as their first

outraged by the stories shared but then don’t do anything to

beer of 2023.

improve things, and when they are no longer the hot topic,

Brave Noise is a global collaborative effort to pro-

people move on.

vide inclusive and safe environments for women,

“I am incredibly proud that by taking part in Brave Noise we

BIPOC, and LGBTQIA+ people throughout the beer industry.

are making a stand as a company, and doing something to

It began with Brienne Allan’s question on Twitter ‘Have you

help to make a real positive difference to our industry.

ever experienced sexism in the beer industry?’ which received

“The beer industry is on the whole a wonderful, inclusive,

an overwhelming international response. Brave Noise was

encouraging and supportive one, but the overwhelming re-

born from this to honour those who have shared their stories

action to Brianne’s question shows that we still have a way to

and to raise awareness of anti-discrimination across the beer

go. So far 15 of the 2000+ breweries in the UK have brewed or

industry.

pledged to brew a Brave Noise beer.

By brewing a Brave Noise beer Elusive hope to help to bring

“There is still time to sign up and we really hope that more

about a positive change in the beer industry. The beer, a West

breweries join us to help make a great, big, brave noise.”

Coast Pale Ale, is Elusive’s take on the original Brave Noise

V

% AB .5 4 le a P t s a o C st Brave Noise We 1.045 Estimated OG: 10 Estimated FG: 1.0 4.5% Estimated ABV: GRIST

Malt 3.5Kg Maris Otter Pale Pale Malt 500g Golden Promise alt 60g Light Crystal M YEAST

d hold for pitch at 19C an X, LA bs La C H W d l gravity reache 7 days until fina

IBU: 30 EBC: 12

ciency: 72% Brewhouse Effi in Boil Time: 60 m HOP ADDITIONS 10g @ 60m Talus (9% AA) 10g @ 20m Talus (9% AA) 10g @ 5m Talus (9% AA) ion @ 80C Whirlpool Addit ITO (TM) 15g Mosaic INCOGN DRY HOP 50g Sabro

POMAX(TM)

50g Mosaic LU

78

|

SPRING 2023

BREWERS JOURNAL

Are you monitoring gas risk in your workplace?

Shawcity is a specialist provider of nitrogen (N2) and carbon dioxide (CO2) detection in the brewing & beverage industry.

Our fixed systems are all designed, installed, commissioned and maintained by our in-house engineers Contact our expert team for further information or to arrange a free, no obligation site survey: find us at The Brewers Congress

8-9 Dec Stand 509

01367 899419 solutions@shawcity.co.uk shawcity.co.uk

For the latest in workplace monitoring technology

PakTech has Repurposed over a Half Billion Containers into Packaging Handles

GADGET WISHLIST:

HOMEBREW CORNER

MW102 PRO+ PH METER

The Milwaukee mw102 pro+ ph meter has won fans around the world with its reliable, fast and simple operation as well as its toughness. accurate to ± 0.02 ph with automatic temperature compensation. Here, avid home brewer Paddy Finnegan puts it through its paces.

I

keep threatening that I am going to get serious about brewing water. It has easily been my Brew Year’s Resolution since 2018. It’s a huge gap in my game and I’ve always known that when I give it the respect and effort it deserves my homebrew will be all the better for it. I

decided to start on my journey to full out Aquaman by dipping my toe in via pH instead of diving all the way into water composition which scares the trub out of me if I’m honest.

I like to refer to myself as a “Monkey that glues metal together with heat” from my days as a full time sanitary welder which I freely admit is a far cry from being a chemist or a biologist.

PH adjustment has an impact at virtually all stages of a brew.

Achieving optimal pH levels for your mash in and sparge help

Calibrati

on comple te

with the enzymatic conversion. Sparging with too high a pH can actually have an impact on the clarity of the beer. In the fermentation process different yeasts like different pH levels and will perform accordingly. pH monitoring and adjustment has a larger impact on certain styles than others. Most beers hover around the 5 pH level but if we were to call out a standard range it would be 4 - 5.5. The refreshingly tart Berliner Weisse lands between 3.3 and 3.7 and it’s a process to get it there. My first experience with the PRO+ 2 in 1 was during this very process. I used reverse Osmosis (RO) Water and didn’t do any acidification prior to mashing in.

I wanted to use the PRO+ to read and adjust in real time and it was a fun/stressful experience. Stressful only because of the nature of free wheeling like this and not in any way because of the meter. In fact the meter was incredibly easy to calibrate and use. I took the 1st reading 15 min into the Mash and it read 5.11 which was already a little lower than the target conversion range of 5.2 - 5.4 so I adjusted with 2 tablespoons of Gypsum to bring it up a little.

Anything between 5 - 6 pH will work so I didn’t stress on this step but I have since spoken to a good friend of mine that makes a mean Berliner Weisse professionally and he tells me that he likes to mash at 4.8 as it aids in head retention. I put that little nugget in my notes for the next brew.

I knew I wanted to get the pH down to the 4.5 before the 1st short boil (there are 2 boils in my recipe) because I read that

80

|

SPRING 2023

PROS AND CONS Pros o Quick and simple calibration o Accuracy of +/- 0.02 pH o Automatic Temperature Compensation o Easy to handle and operate o New sleek design o Probe storage sleeve to keep crystal saturated o Temperature probe for auxiliary uses Cons o Only initial calibration fluid comes with the unit.

Single use and there is no rinse fluid o 3’ of cable is unnecessary given that the unit is portable and even if not generally we take the samples to it

BREWERS JOURNAL

HOMEBREW CORNER this also helps with head retention and if you leave it high the beer will take ages to come down in the Kettle depending on how you are using to cultivate the lactic acid with. I chose to “steep” it by tossing a few handfuls of unmilled two row into the hop spider. 24 hours later I took a reading and it had not dropped at all.

The PRO+ did its job. I hadn’t done mine. I did a little more research, dropped the temp in my kettle to 36*C form 46* C, purged the kettle’s headspace w CO2 and taped it all up. less than 24 hours later the pH had dropped from 4.5 to 3.42!

I gave it another half day and went to my second boil when I got a reading of 3.36. Being able to grab a quick sample and knowing, not guessing, your pH instantaneously really made this brew special.

Historically I tried using pH Strips but gave up on them and just went by taste. If I’m honest I’ve probably avoided this style be- cause of not wanting to gamble on the level of acidity I was producing. Having this data on hand is what Brew4.0 is all about. Professional level intel for homebrewers is Milwaukee’s sweet spot.

I know this reads as a bit of a beginners guide to brewing a Berliner Weisse but that says something in itself. This instrument is so easy to use, and the info so incredibly useful that it’s hard not to focus on the outcome vs the data itself. Tuning in my Mash and Sparge/Pre Boil pH will only make the good

e er to mak t e m e h t fter using ents 24 hours a ate process adjustm and valid

bugs happier and isn’t that what we spend 5 - 10 hours brewing aiming for?

brewersjournal.info

SPRING 2023

|

81

BOTTLING & CANNING

www.enterprisetondelli.co.uk info@enterprisetondelli.co.uk

BREWING EQUIPMENT

FERMENTATION MONITORING

PACKAGING HANDLES

Realtime fermentation gravity and temperature monitoring with graphing, optional remote temperature control and our new CO2 purge device.

PakTech designs and manufactures 100% recycled, recyclable and reusable packaging handles. PakTech is the smart and sustainable packaging solution.

www.dotmatix.net 020 3475 1420

www.paktech-opi.com handlesales@paktech-opi.com Phone: +1.541.461.5000

MALT

RECRUITMENT

Gravity Systems was formed to meet the growing demand in the craft beer market for a single source for all brewhouse, fermentation, services generation and distribution.

P

Q

1809

T

TO

Est

YEAST

CETT

AL

AW

www.carlingpartnership.com +44 (0)1483 893 100

S

CASK & KEG CLOSURES

www.bestmalz.com

F

www.gravity-systems.co.uk +44 (0)1733 834264 enquiries@gravity-systems.co.uk

UALITY M

www.lallemandbrewing.com +44 (0)7930 451687

www.fawcett-maltsters.co.uk +44 (0)1977 552490 sales@fawcett-maltsters.co.uk Since 1774, Rankin continues to supply reliable closures that help seal, protect and add value to your brands. www.rankincork.co.uk sales@rankincork.co.uk + 44 (0)1844 203100 www.simpsonsmalt.co.uk +44 (0)1289 330033

Fermentis is an expert in the art of fermentation.

Our active dry yeasts and yeast derivatives cover almost all professional requirements: from safeguarding production to expressing sensory characteristics.

Discover our products on www.fermentis.com Contact us at fermentis@lesaffre.com

PACKAGING

www.galxc.co.uk +44 (0)23 8086 7168

We supply the finest quality kegs & casks in the world, manufactured to the highest industry specifications. We provide 50 litre kegs, 30 litre kegs, 4.5 gallon Pins & 9 gallon Casks. www.keglogistics.com/united-kingdom

+44 (0)7734 035562 SHorrox@keglogistics.com

82

|

SPRING 2023

CLASSIFIED

COOLING SOLUTIONS

BREWERS JOURNAL