New Hampshire Magazine June 2018

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N E W H A M P S H I R E M AG A Z I N E JUNE 2 01 8




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Managing Editor Erica Thoits x5130 Assistant Editor Emily Heidt x5115 Contributing Editor Barbara Coles Food Editor Susan Laughlin Production Manager Jodie Hall x5122 Senior Graphic Designer Wendy Wood x5126 Senior Graphic Designer Nancy Tichanuk x5116

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150 Dow Street, Manchester, NH 03101 (603) 624-1442, fax (603) 624-1310 E-mail: Advertising: Subscription information: Subscribe online at: or e-mail To order by phone call: (877) 494-2036.

© 2018 McLean Communications, Inc. New Hampshire Magazine® is published by McLean Communications, Inc., 150 Dow St., Manchester, NH 03101, (603) 624-1442. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publisher assumes no responsibility for any mistakes in advertisements or editorial. Statements/opinions expressed herein do not necessarily reflect or represent those of this publication or its officers. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, McLean Communications, Inc.: New Hampshire Magazine disclaims all responsibility for omissions and errors. New Hampshire Magazine is published monthly. USPS permit number 022-604. Periodical postage paid at Manchester 03103-9651. Postmaster send address changes to: New Hampshire Magazine, P.O. Box 433273, Palm Coast, FL 32143. PRINTED IN NEW HAMPSHIRE

Contents 42


603 Navigator

603 Informer

603 Living

8 Editor’s Note 10 Contributors Page 12 Feedback



75 Home



First Things

40 In Their Own Words

Meet artist Tom Devaney of Concord.

by Chris Saunders

42 Celebrating New Campshire

from left: courtesy photo; photo by kendal j. bush; photo by david j. murray, cleareyephoto


June 2018

As the home of the country’s first sleepaway camp, New Hampshire has a rich history of sending its kids into the woods for weeks at a time. Five alumni of Granite State camps share their memories of swim tests, pranks and summer romance.

by Darren Garnick

50 Rough It

ATV tourism is quickly turning into an economic boon for the North Country. Discover why this motorized sport is both a blast and a factor in revitalizing northern communities.

by Sarah Cahalan photos by Kendal J. Bush

58 Liquid Legacy

You’ve probably walked Portsmouth’s charming streets, but have you ever explored it by sea? From kayaking to cruises, water adventure awaits.

by Crystal Ward Kent

by Sarah Cahalan

18 Retail


34 First Person

78 Seniority

by Lynne Snierson


by Lynne Snierson

20 Top Events

80 Health


by Emily Heidt


by Karen A. Jamrog


by Rob Sneddon

by Susan Laughlin

26 Food & Drink

37 Blips



86 Calendar


by Barbara Radcliffe Rogers

82 Local Dish by Susan Laughlin

36 Artisan NEWBURY


by Erica Thoits


edited by Emily Heidt


by Susan Laughlin

by Casey McDermott

28 Small Bites

38 Scene


by Susan Laughlin

29 Review

92 Dine Out


edited by Susan Laughlin

by Ilya Mirman

30 Outsider VIA FERRATA

by Marty Basch



39 Politics THE 2018 TURNOVER

by James Pindell

ON THE COVER The summer fun issue offers suggestions for exploring Portsmouth by sea. Read the feature on page 58. Cover illustration by Ryan O’Rourke of the New Hampshire Institute of Art


by Adi Rule

Volume 32, Number 6 ISSN 1560-4949 | June 2018



Busting Out Our Best of NH Party happens June 14 and you should attend. If not for yourself, then for the good of the Granite State and, in evolutionary terms, for the good of humanity. Allow me to explain.

ham girlsincnew


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l, summer, After schoo s ch program and outrea re than serving mo in New 2,000 girls each year. Hampshire

8 | June 2018


une is bustin’ out all over,” sings Renée Fleming as Nettie Fowler in the newly revived “Carousel” (my favorite classic Broadway play). It’s a song about the reckless fecundity of nature in its summer primetime. In New Hampshire, the beginning of summer is really just late spring, but here’s a question appropriate to either season: Ever wonder why flowers are beautiful? Probably not, but this is the kind of puzzle that fascinates evolutionary biologists. They explain that the flower and the pollinating insects (we’ll just say “bees”) that are attracted to them have coevolved over the eons and the “beauty” we see is, for all practical purposes, a coincidence. Flowers look lovely, but we are not the objects of their attraction — the bees are. Still, we see the beauty as well, so there must be some larger pattern at work. Plants produce flowers with the right appeal so the bees will visit them, sip some nectar, collect a little pollen, and then spread the plant’s DNA around. Human beings have their own system of reproduction that is uniquely mammalian and not quite as elegant, but that works just fine. Meanwhile, the human culture that sustains, enlightens and entertains us, believe it or not, has its own reproductive system. It happens to resemble that of a blooming plant. The “DNA” of our culture is spread not through genes but through “memes” — ideas that are viral in nature and able to replicate themselves. When you visit a friend’s home and admire their landscaping or kitchen design, you make mental notes about how you’d like your own home to look. If you incorporate some of those ideas into your own improvements, then beauty and elegance have been transferred from one family to another. The meme has spread, taking with it a new style and efficiency, and rewarding the “bee” (you) with the chance to improve your life, impress

your friends and spread the meme even further. That’s the home design industry in a nutshell. Fashion has a similar life cycle, and fashion centers of the world are like the blossoms of that organism. Travel to Paris and you will bring home some Parisian fashion pollen that might eventually change the way people look in, say Bedford, or Orford, New Hampshire. Using this analogy, all great civic and community events can be seen as the flowering of the forces of creativity and enterprise. When you go to a great festival like The Thing in the Spring in Peterborough or Art Jam Bridge Fest in Manchester, you are immersed in the pollen collection of dozens of busy cultural bees. Each musical band, food booth, art display and table of merch is waiting to leave its dust upon browsers. The concentration of them all in one place at a specific point in time is like a big, colorful, fragrant flower, evolved over millennia just to lure people like you and me. Much like plants, the societies, communities, countries and states that produce a lot of blossoms are the ones that will succeed and spread their influence. However, unlike bees, who wouldn’t think of spending a bright summer day in the hive, some human beings have to be encouraged to get out and perform their part in this great dance of fertility and commerce. At the Best of NH Party, one thing will be certain — New Hampshire food, drink, music and fun will be bustin’ out all over. So don’t miss this chance to sip a little nectar and collect a little pollen while enjoying the best the state has to offer in full bloom. You might even want to invite a few friends. And if they ask why, forget everything I just said and sing out loud, “Because it’s June — June, June, June! Just because it’s June, June, June!”



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Contributors Former New Hampshire Magazine staff member Sarah Cahalan flexed her oft-neglected outdoor recreation muscles to write “Rough It” and this month’s “Navigator” on glamping. As assistant editor of this magazine from 2016-2017, she wrote about everything from pizza and weddings to fitness classes and modern dance, but ATVing and glamping may be her favorite subjects yet. Her work has appeared in such magazines as 5280, Down East, Indianapolis Monthly and Notre Dame Magazine, where she currently serves as associate editor.

for June 2018

Kendal J. Bush took the photos for the feature story “Rough It.” Her work is also often featured on the cover of Parenting NH and NH Magazine’s BRIDE.

Author, writer, producer and Emmy-nominated filmmaker Darren Garnick wrote the feature story “Celebrating New Campshire.”

Crystal Ward Kent, who wrote “Liquid Legacy,” owns Kent Creative, a creative services agency providing writing, design and marketing in Dover.

NH Institute of Art professor Ryan O’Rourke illustrated this month’s cover. His work appears in everything from magazines to children’s books.

Freelance writer Lynne Snierson, New Hampshire Magazine’s regular “Seniority” contributor, also wrote this month’s “Retail.”

Frequent contributor Marty Basch, who is an award-winning travel, sports and outdoor writer, wrote this month’s “Outsider.”

About | Behind The Scenes at New Hampshire Magazine Women & Political Change

Speaking of political change, gubernatorial campaign groundbreaker Arnie Arnesen sent us this photo of her diapering her baby, Kirsten Drew Arnesen-Trunzo, on the carpet of the Legislative Office Building when she was a state representative in 1985.

10 | June 2018

Last month’s article “Perseverance” focused on remarkable achievements of New Hampshire women in politics and law, and generated a lot of interest and comments. Longtime state senator Peter Burling posted: “I think this article missed one important first: In April of 1979, Hugh Gallen appointed Jean Burling as a judge, the first woman lawyer ever appointed to New Hampshire’s bench. She sat on each of the Granite State courts (District, Probate, Superior, Supreme and Family when that came into being) over the next couple of decades. At around the same time that she was appointed, Governor Gallen nominated Patricia McGee and Linda Dalianis as well. Motivating these appointments from behind the scenes were two amazing Democratic women, Mary Louise Hancock and Jean Hennessey, whose influence over politics in our state cannot be overstated, and should not be overlooked.”



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Send letters to Editor Rick Broussard, New Hampshire Magazine, 150 Dow St. Manchester, NH 03101 or email him at

Feedback, & @nhmagazine

Unexpected Connection The Way Things Used to Was I enjoyed the article in the April issue, “The Road Wrinkles That Winter Leaves Behind” by Marshall Hudson. It reminded me of a road here in Francestown that also gets pretty roughed up every spring. The Francestown Turnpike runs in a straight line to Mont Vernon, about 9 miles away, and we used to pull it flat with a yoke of oxen the same way they did that Horseshoe Pond Road. Only one year, the Turnpike Road was so wrinkly we couldn’t do it with just an oxen team and had to use ol’ man Borax’s 20-mule team to straighten it out. But the road stretched more and more and got so narrow that it went from two-lane road down to only one lane. So we quit doing it that way. Good to see someone else remembers the way things used to was. Willie Nichols Francestown Editor’s Note: Things sure ain’t the way they used to was, but at least there are a few still around to remind us. If readers want to fully appreciate this note, they should read Marshall Hudson’s “What Do You Know?” column in our April issue and become enlightened.

Teetering Subscriber Overall, I would like to tell you that I enjoy reading New Hampshire Magazine. Three years ago I ended my subscription because I did not like the James Pindell articles. Once again, I am teetering on canceling. Mr. Pindell is not a political analyst. He is a left-leaning liberal with an ax to grind with Republicans. Sec. of State Bill Gardner has worked hard over the years for Democrat as well as Republican governors [“Politics,” May 2018]. Mr. Pindell’s recent article stating that voter fraud is a “sham” and under a cloud of controversy is his opinion and not supported by hard facts. Unless Mr. Pindell can sit at every voting booth and double-check all voters, then he really cannot verify one way or the other. I wish you would remove Mr. Pindell from your staff and put an unbiased political analyst to do the articles. Larry Daudelin Dover 12 | June 2018

emails, snail mail, facebook, tweets

I read Jay Atkinson’s piece in New Hampshire Magazine on “The Last (Real) Trout Stream” [April 2018] with great interest. My cousin and several others have fished that area for many seasons. We make Aziscoos [Valley] Campground in Wilsons Mills our base and also fish the Magalloway quite a bit. Also, when I saw who the author was, it reminded me of his instructional hockey camp at Methuen HS. My grandson attended five or six years ago for his first introduction to hockey. He won his first real stick for reading the most books, and is now playing hockey as a freshman at Saint John’s Prep in Danvers. Keep up the good work!

Karl Lippmann Franconia

Memories of Barbara Bush During the Gulf War, I was at work at Family Planning in Laconia when I was interrupted during my examination of a patient (I am a retired nurse practitioner) with a knock on the door. That was never allowed while I was doing an exam, and I ignored the knock. A few minutes later, another, more urgent knock. I asked, “What?” My

front desk person answered that I had an urgent phone call from Barbara Bush’s office. Obviously, I asked my patient to excuse me, and I took the call. Her secretary asked me to hold, and Mrs. Bush came on the line. She invited me to attend Gov. Gregg’s inauguration so that she could meet me. Of course, I accepted, and the call was over. The call was a result of our organization, Send Our Support, and our sons (David, helicopter crew chief, and Mark, a combat engineer, while eldest son John was becoming a Green Beret at the time) being in the Gulf War. My husband and I did attend, wearing our yellow sweatshirts that proudly displayed the Send Our Support logo, and she accepted two shirts from us. I thought of you as you helped and even interviewed Mark at one point during the Gulf War. The Bush family, especially Barbara, were so kind to us involved in Send Our Support. In fond remembrance,

Bobbie Terrill Loudon

Editor’s Note: Great to hear from you, Bobbie. I remember your good work with Send Our Support. Thanks for sharing your memory of our recently passed First Lady.

Marshall Hudson Speaks! (Well, writes.)

The oh-so-popular “What Do You Know?” column does not appear in this issue, though writer Marshall Hudson has a humdinger ready for July. Hudson did submit this letter regarding some surprising feedback he received from his last article. The clipping is from the Concord Monitor.

It seems like every story generates another one. The shot of Bessie Coombs leading a cow across Thunder Bridge in my May article apparently stirred up some memories in Chichester. A lady there saw the article and contacted the Historical Society. They sent me this 2003 newspaper clipping about Bessie. I went over to the VA cemetery and found her grave yesterday and took this photo.

— Marshall Hudson

Spot four newts like the one above (but much smaller) hidden on ads in this issue, tell us where you found them and you might win a great gift from a local artisan or company. To enter our drawing for Spot the Newt, send answers plus your name and mailing address to:

Spot the Newt c/o New Hampshire Magazine 150 Dow St., Manchester, NH 03101 Email them to or fax them to (603) 624-1310. Last month’s “Spot the Newt” winner is Charles Illig of Melvin Village. May issue newts were on pages 4, 37, 84 and 95.


This month’s lucky Newt Spotter will win a culinary experience with Jack’s Crackers. The winner can design a unique flavor of crackers and take five bags home to give to family and friends. Jack’s Crackers ( for cat-loving humans are made with natural ingredients sourced as close as possible to their Keene home, and come in delicious flavors from Clementine Basil to Cocoa-Pow. Jack’s Crackers is a member of NH Made (nhmade. com), the state’s official booster of locally made products.

DELIGHTING IN THE PAST Follow 300+ years of history in the heart of downtown

Portsmouth, NH. Architectural gems, heirloom gardens, costumed role-players and traditional crafts make sense of time and place. Open May through October 14 Hancock Street Portsmouth, NH 03801 603.433.1100 | June 2018


603 Navigator “I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery — air, mountains, trees, people. I thought, ‘This is what it is to be happy.’” — Sylvia Plath, “The Bell Jar”

14 | June 2018

Photo courtesy of Huttopia

Retail 18 Events 20 Our Town 22 Food & Drink 26 Small Bites 28 Review 29 Outsider 30

Glamp It Up

Camping with style BY SARAH CAHALAN Ah, camping: crisp mountain air, pristine lakes — and, you know, sleeping on the ground and using a tree as a bathroom. If you want a sleepover in the great outdoors this summer without a great headache, one of New Hampshire’s glamping outfits (that’s “glamorous camping” for the uninitiated) might be for you. French company Huttopia transformed the Granite State glamping scene last summer when it opened its first American location near North Conway, offering luxury accommodations and amenities just a stone’s throw from prime White Mountains hiking territory. But they’re not the only place where you can add a bit of glam to your camping trip. Here are our favorite spots for a not-so-rustic retreat.

Huttopia White Mountains

This 61-site campground offers New Hampshire’s truest glamping experience. Accommodations range from modest two-person tents to two-bedroom chalets, but the best option is their Trappeurs. These luxury tents each boast a personal fire pit, separate sleeping and living spaces, a modest kitchen and, best of all, indoor plumbing. Many tents and cabins sit directly on the shores of Iona Lake, where you can take the campground’s canoes and paddleboards for a spin if you’ve tired of the onsite pool. Other amenities include a canteen stocked with everything from s’mores supplies to French wine and a hip Airstream trailer that dishes out crêpes at breakfast and wood-fired pizzas at dinner. White Mountain hiking and North Conway sightseeing can both be found within Huttopia tents come with amenities such as bedrooms, gas stoves, tables, fridges, lanterns and other comforts of home. | June 2018




minutes of Huttopia, but when your campsite’s this luxe, who needs to leave? (603) 447-3131;


The internet’s favorite vacation-rental service is teeming with options for outdoor-adjacent escapes, from sprawling Winnipesaukee lakehouses to earthy yurts. Two of our favorites? An all-seasons tent on an isolated plot in Sanbornton boasting décor straight out of Kinfolk (linen, succulents and dreamcatchers, oh my) and a camper near Echo Lake known as Harry the Caravan. Owned by a Conway native, Harry comes equipped with free wifi, memory-foam mattresses and a French press — glam indeed.

Getaway Boston

Designed as a relaxing, well, getaway for young urbanites, this spread of rustic-chic tiny houses — one of three, with other outposts near New York and Washington, DC — thinks of everything. Want to bring your dog along? Can do. Forgot your firestarter, coffee or snap pea chips? Grab it from your mini-kitchen and pay at checkout. Scattered through the woods in southern New Hampshire (the locations aren’t revealed until after booking in an effort to “preserve spontaneity”), these two- or four-person cabins also come with wireless speakers, Instagram-ready picture windows, AC and, according to company lingo, plenty of “good vibes.”

Camp Ogontz

A former elite girls’ camp in teeny-tiny Lyman, this campground-cum-event-space is perfect for family reunions, wedding parties and other big groups looking for a high-class outdoor adventure. Enclosed and open-sided cabins can accommodate your guests, while a variety of larger main buildings can play host to the barnstyle party of your dreams. One Ogontz wedding featured in our sister publication, New Hampshire Magazine’s BRIDE, even had a reception decorated with full-grown trees — inside. (603) 838-2462;

The locations of the Getaway Boston cabins aren’t revealed until after you book a stay.

16 | June 2018

Looking for the convenience of glamping without the hifalutin bells and whistles? The pop-up camper rentals available at this West Ossipee spot have you covered. Anyone can pull their own RV into camp here, but six sites come preequipped with furnished campers ready for you to step into and enjoy. With sleeping space for four to seven people and nightly rates topping out at $80, these rentals might just be the cheapest way to dip your toes into New Hampshire’s glamping waters. (603) 539-4898;

photos courtesy of getaway boston

Bearcamp River Campground


courtesy photos


The cozy, comfortable Harry the Caravan, which you can rent on Airbnb, is located near Echo Lake.

Camp Ogontz in Lyman is perfect for larger groups looking for outdoor adventure.

Bearcamp River Campground in West Ossipee has furnished campers for rent. | June 2018




Upcycled dresser from Just the Thing!

Destination Dover Perfect for summer retail therapy BY LYNNE SNIERSON


over got a makeover. The picturesque downtown district of New Hampshire’s oldest permanent settlement, established in 1623, still echoes the Garrison City’s rich mill heritage, though now the renovated storefronts along Central Avenue are a destination for anyone in need of retail therapy this summer. Most of the shops are locally owned and have been in the family for multiple generations, so that one-of-a-kind find has the added value of being packaged with a personal touch. When hunting for a hostess gift sure to delight or that “wow” piece for your porch or patio, pop into Just The Thing! The store is jammed full of gifts, home décor items and antiques, and it specializes in rustic or refined items that have been repurposed, refurbished and revitalized. Everything from tiny treasures to big pieces can be

18 | June 2018

found here with prices ranging from under $5 to over $500. At this “green” business, items fly out the door fast, so if you love it, don’t leave it. In the market for that distinctive graduation or wedding gift? Market Square Jewelers offers a huge collection of gorgeous gemstones, gold, platinum and silver, and the craftsmen there can take vintage and estate pieces that have been languishing in a safe deposit box, and repair or remake them into today’s designs. Be sure to check out the 1920s art deco watchband that was converted into a pair of sparkling diamond drop earrings and the beautiful antique brooches that are now trendy pendants. At Garrison Hill Florists, which has been in town for 133 years and in the Massingham family since 1921, business is blooming. The designers pride themselves on

creating bouquets of fresh flowers made by friendly people from exotic stems imported from across the planet mixed with summer-cut flowers sourced from local growers. The repeat clientele is also partial to the homemade chocolates, plush stuffed animals by Ganz, body care products by Anna and bottle wicks made in-state. You won’t find the same labels you get at the state liquor store or grocery chain on the racks at Dover Wine Company. At this treat for oenophiles, the selection — running the gamut from $12 per bottle for a Portuguese Vinho Verde to “Oh My” for a very fine French champagne — constantly changes as new wines are introduced. The tastings every summer Friday and Saturday afternoon help you discover new favorites to perfectly pair with the store’s offerings of locally produced, herb-infused or candied caramel goat cheese, crackers and chocolates. The new hot spot is The Gyro Spot, the second location of the popular Manchester eatery. The Dover restaurant opened last July, and serves fresh, fast, classic Greek gyros, Greek soups and desserts, salads, spreads and other healthy options made with meraki, which loosely translates to putting the essence of your soul into your work. Owner Alex Lambroulis learned many of the recipes from his grandmother, who also taught him to treat each customer like family. The tzatziki — Greek yogurt blended with cucumber, garlic and fresh herbs — is a house specialty. No trip to Dover is complete without visiting Harvey’s Bakery & Coffee Shop, which has been a landmark for 86 years and still serves breakfast and lunch from original recipes. Fans of the trademark maple squares, maple donuts and maple rounds come from as far away as Boston. This local beacon is also famous for award-winning,

courtesy photos

The curated selection at Dover Wine Company constantly changes.



Get There Just the Thing! 451 Central Ave. (603) 742-9040 Facebook

The Gyro Spot 421 Central Ave. (603) 343-4553

Garrison Hill Florists 16 Chestnut St. (603) 742-2060

Harvey’s Bakery & Coffee Shop 376 Central Ave. (603) 742-6029

Dover Wine Company 458 Central Ave. (603) 742-9463

an internet buy. The summer parking lot sale during the second week in July has been a can’t-miss tradition for 20 years. Formerly known as Tuttle’s Barn, Tendercrop Farm at the Red Barn is the oldest farm in America, but here you’ll find more than 1,000 of the freshest farm-to-table food items and beverages to make your summer meals spectacular. The displays of every type of organic produce, herbs and plants are works of art, and the full-service butchery sells meat from their grass-fed and free-range animals that are antibiotic-,

nitrate- and sugar-free. The daily deals — including a dozen cage-free eggs for 99 cents and a dozen ears of just-picked butter and sugar corn for $2.99 — are a big draw. So are the Farm Friends Petting Zoo and summer BBQ weekends with live music and grass-fed burgers hot off the grill and served with a side of that inimitable sweet corn. NH



homemade pork pies, chicken pot pies and chowders. Check out the Tiffany lampshades over the glass bakery display counters; they’re original. In 1958, Red Murray opened Red’s Shoe Barn with closeouts and second runs from area factories, but now the store sells only first-quality, top-of-the-line, name-brand merchandise. Ladies’ fashion items, men’s workwear, activewear and accessories are available with shoes for the whole family. Even better, customers get personalized service with a perfect fit they can’t get with

Tendercrop Farm at the Red Barn 123 Dover Point Rd. (603) 740-4920



courtesy photos

Red’s Shoe Barn has been a Dover mainstay since 1958.

Market Square Jewelers 454 Central Ave. (603) 740-9587

Red’s Shoe Barn 35 Broadway (603) 742-1893

I t ’s w o

rt h

Footwear for the Entire Family M-F 9:30–8 | Sat 9:30–5:30 | Sun 12–5 35 Broadway, Dover • (603) 742-1893 22 Plaistow Rd, Plaistow • (603) 382-7688 | June 2018




June | Picks

courtesy photo

Father’s Day Events

Celebrate Father’s Day

Treat your dad to a special day or weekend with events ranging from concerts and sand sculptures to parties and festivals, plus enjoy free admission to museums and grand New Hampshire estates. Best of NH Party June 14, Manchester

If you’ll indulge us in a bit of events nepotism, we must say: This is one party you don’t want to miss. We’ve partnered with Stay Work Play for our 17th annual celebration of New Hampshire’s best food, drink and fun. Take your Best Dad to Northeast Delta Dental Stadium (home of the Fisher Cats) to nosh and imbibe while rocking out to live music.

20 | June 2018

Hampton Beach Master Sand Sculpting Classic

June 14-16, Hampton

This Father’s Day weekend extravaganza boasts 200 tons of imported sand transformed into sand sculptures that will put yours to shame. World-class master sculptors come together to create their own unique sculptures and compete for the $15,000 grand prize. Their masterpieces will be illuminated at night for an unforgettable walk down the boardwalk.

Enjoy the museum, art gallery, gift shop, hiking and more at Castle in the Clouds.


June 15, Gilford

You and your dad are sure to have “nothin’ but a good time” at this rockin’ event. The iconic band Poison is bringing all of its original members together, along with Cheap Trick and Pop Evil for a “mega concert and party combined.”

Rock’n Ribfest

June 15-17, Merrimack

“Three days of ribs” should be all you need to hear about this annual festival, but if that’s somehow not enticing enough, don’t worry — there’s plenty more. Over the course of the weekend, this ode to summer eats features live music, a 5K footrace, bike ride and The Beer Experience. What more could you want?



New Hampshire Appreciation Day June 16, Tamworth

Celebrate your dad and the great state of New Hampshire at the Remick Country Doctor Museum & Farm. Since we “live free” in the Granite State, you can visit the museum for free on this day and partake in activities like goat hand-milking and farm chores. You can also walk through the herbal and children’s gardens and enjoy the historic house and barns.

Father’s Day at the Children’s Museum of New Hampshire June 17, Dover photo by tara photography

In honor of Father’s Day, all fathers and grandfathers are granted free admission for their visit to the museum. Your little ones can take part in making festive crowns and picture frames to celebrate their dad on this special day.

1. Best of NH Party, Manchester 2. Hampton Beach Master Sand Sculpting Classic, Hampton Father’s Day at The Children’s Museum is fun for the whole family.

3. Poison, Gilford

Dads Tour Free at Castle in the Clouds

4. Rock’n Ribfest, Merrimack

June 17, Moultonborough


5. New Hampshire Appreciation Day, Tamworth

Bring your dad to the Castle for a day of family fun. Whether it is just you and Dad touring the castle grounds and hiking some of the 27 miles of hiking trails on site or the whole family checking out the museum and enjoying a picnic in the field, this will be a day Dad won’t soon forget.

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6. Dads Tour Free at Castle in the Clouds, Moultonborough 7. Father’s Day at the Children’s Museum of New Hampshire, Dover



7 2

Historic Theater: 28 Chestnut Street, Portsmouth, NH Loft: 131 Congress Street, Portsmouth, NH B2W Box Office: 603.436.2400 • /MusicHall @MusicHall /MusicHallNH




Wed., July 18 • 7:30pm • Historic Theater $44; $62; $74

Fri., July 20 • 8pm • Historic Theater • $32; $42

Sat., July 21 • 8pm • Historic Theater $28; $35; $40



The fan-favorite a cappella group return with their pop-infused sound. EVENING SPONSORS: Clear Eye Photo; Daystar, Inc.; Weekender House

Cowboy Junkies have been making the rich tradition of country, folk, and primal blues their own for over 30 years. EVENING SPONSORS: Avery Insurance; Bottomline Technologies; Clear Eye Photo; Eastern Bank

THOMPSON SQUARE: THIS IS US TOUR Country Music Award-winning husband and wife duo bring acoustic versions of their Nashville sound to Portsmouth. EVENING SPONSOR: Clear Eye Photo




photo by susan laughlin


Summer Respite Find peaceful reflection in Newbury BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS


ike many other prosperous men of the late 1800s, John Hay chose a quiet spot in New Hampshire to build his summer house, a place to escape the city’s summer heat in the days before air conditioning. The southern shore of Lake Sunapee also gave Hay respite from a busy world of politics and diplomacy, in which he had spent his life. His first job was as personal secretary to President Abraham Lincoln, and from there he held a variety of diplomatic posts before becoming Assistant Secretary of State and later US Secretary of State. In 1889, Hay and his wife, Clara Louise Stone, commissioned architect George F. Hammond to design The Fells, a summer cottage overlooking the lake on abandoned farmland that the Hays had acquired. The Colonial Revival style with a gambrel roof was typical of summer cottages of the time.

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Touring the house, we were struck by its livability — we could picture ourselves choosing a book in the library and sinking into one of the comfortable chairs to read. The views from the large windows overlooked a different landscape when John and Clara Hay lived there. Although she planted hydrangeas and roses, the scene — like many New Hampshire pastures — was scattered with glacial debris. It was their son Clarence and his wife Alice Appleton Hay who tackled the stones and tamed the field into one of the state’s loveliest gardens. They remodeled the cottage, and as they created the formal and woodland gardens, they also returned The Fells to a working farm. Their extensive travels in Europe, coupled with Clarence’s study of landscape architecture at Harvard, assured that these were no amateur attempts. Along the length of the house facing the lake, 100 feet of stone

The gardens at the historic Fells estate are a perfect place to spend a summer day.

wall supports a perennial border where iris, hollyhocks, delphinium and phlox, supplemented by annuals, bloom in a succession of flowers into October. The Rose Terrace combines roses with wisteria and annuals for a heady blend of fragrances in the warm June sun. In contrast, the Old Garden is a shady atmospheric set of garden rooms inside a high stone wall. Behind the Old Garden are woodland paths bordered by wildflowers, and the charming Fairy Village, a bosky spot where visitors are invited to construct tiny ephemeral fairy houses from materials they find in the woods. In an open spot, 20 varieties of heather form the Heather Bed, and we found the venerable Roosevelt Maple, planted by President Theodore Roosevelt, under whom John Hay served as Secretary of State. Five different trails wind through the property, which is protected as a wildlife refuge, rambling across easy terrain through the forest and


photo by stillman rogers


along the shore of Lake Sunapee. But our favorite of all the gardens and woodlands is the Rock Garden that tumbles down the hillside beside the house. A stream hops from pool to pool through a landscape of lichen-covered granite and hardy rock-loving plants into a lily pool with Japanese iris. At the edges of the garden, azaleas bloom in June, and at its top are more showy summer flowers. Some of the plants here are so hardy that they remain from the originals planted by Clarence in 1929. It was these gardens that took us to Newbury in June, when they are at their height. But The Fells is not Newbury’s only attraction. Lake Sunapee makes up 6 percent of the town’s territory and much of that shoreline is Mount Sunapee State Park, with its sandy beach and boat launch. Rising from the shore and up the mountain are the campground, hiking trails and other recreation facilities. We know Mount Sunapee best when it’s covered in snow and home to some of the best-groomed ski trails in the Northeast. But June is the time to explore some of the places in Newbury that aren’t open in the winter.

The rail trail is a lovely place for a hike.

One such place is the little Bell Cove Historic Caboose Museum on Route 103, at the site of the station on the B&M Railroad line that connected Concord to Claremont until the 1950s. The little red caboose con-

tains rail memorabilia, including lanterns and signal lights, as well as station furnishings, brochures and timetables, and it is open during summer and fall weekends. The railroad played an important role here, especially in pre-automobile days, when it brought the Hays and other families to Lake Sunapee in the summer, and made it possible for them to “commute” to work in the cities. But getting the trains here took quite an engineering feat for 1871, when builders had to blast through a solid rock hilltop to get to Newbury. Even with the combination of nitroglycerin explosives and a newly invented steam drill, it took a year to excavate what’s known as the Newbury Cut. The old line has become a rail trail from Newbury to Bradford, but the dramatic cut is close to the lake; you can reach it from the end of Newbury Heights Road, off Route 103. Not far from the trail, at the intersection of Routes 103 and 103A, is Center Meeting House, especially interesting for its interior. The box pews are oddly arranged to face the entry door (you didn’t sneak in late without being noticed). The beautifully


Kalled Gallery

Boulder opal and aquamarine necklace with 18k gold beads Photography by Jane Kelley

603.569.3994 Wolfeboro, NH & Santa Fe, NM KALLEDJEWELRYSTUDIO.COM | June 2018


Discover New Hampshire’s Creative Side

crafted wooden pulpit stands at the front of the church on four columns and is reached by a double staircase. This is the only known example of the reverse arrangement in a Federal-style meeting house, and one of the few built in pure Federal style that survive intact. By 1880, the town couldn’t support the church and it had fallen into a pretty sad state. It was John Hay who saved it in 1892, paying for its repairs. Summer people began attending, arriving by special lake


Exhibition Schedule at SHOP OUR EIGHT NH FINE CRAFT GALLERIES: photo by stillman rogers

Center Sandwich (May-Oct), Concord, Hanover, Hooksett, Littleton, Meredith, Nashua, North Conway Items shown not available in all locations. Left to Right: Jewelry by Lauren Pollaro, Miniature by Marylyn Yonika, Glasswork by Jordana Korsen


85th Annual

Craftsmen’s FAIR

AUGUST 4 -12, 2018

Mount Sunapee Resort, Newbury, NH

The Japanese Garden at The Fells

steamer on Sunday mornings. By 2005, a century after Hay’s death, the church had again deteriorated, its roof timbers sagging, the belfry badly degraded and the foundation settling. As each problem was addressed others were discovered, and the restoration continued for several years. Finally, at the end of 2009, with the building squared and level, the windows restored and the tower back in place, the bell rang for the first time in years. NH


Learn more The Fells (603) 763-4789 Mount Sunapee State Park (603) 763-5561 Bell Cove Historic Caboose Museum (603) 763-9146 Center Meeting House

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Sweet plantain croquets with Spanish queso de nata de Cantabria, a fresh milk cream photos by susan laughlin

Changing Tastes

Manchester’s XO on Elm continues to adapt BY SUSAN LAUGHLIN


n the restaurant business, trends come and go, the public is fickle, and good help is hard to find. It’s not easy to keep an eatery both popular and profitable. The owners and chefs need to have consistent quality and keep noisy Yelpers mollified, all while offering menu items that satisfy the growing list of allergies, health concerns and appetite ranges. You know — Jessica wants just a healthy salad and a tiny but interesting appetizer, and Uncle Bob wants a 42-ounce steak. Rosa Paolini, of XO on Elm in Manchester, has seen it all. Rosa and her first husband Johnny opened Piccola Italia Ristorante in 2001, after learning the craft from Annibale Todesca of The Colosseum in Salem. Johnny worked in the kitchen and Rosa was in the

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front of the house making the restaurant’s signature tableside Caesar salads. They both honed their skills, and like many people in their situation, decided, “If we are going to work this hard, we might as well work for ourselves,” says Rosa. Italian food turned out to be a good bet on Elm Street in Manchester. The restaurant thrived, Rosa had twins, and Johnny grew the staff. In an interesting what-goesaround-comes-round scenario, one of Johnny’s cooks, Felix Rodriguez, opened his own restaurant in Nashua in 2006, lifting almost the entire menu from Piccola, plus Piccola’s warm-hearted singing waiter. The nice guy Johnny is, he gifted Felix a large piece of restaurant equipment and wished him well. A few years later, the couple decided to

Chef Leonardo Hernandez of Venezuela is putting a new spin on the XO on Elm menu.

open another restaurant a few doors up from Piccola on Elm Street, calling it A Taste of Europe. Here, they decided to go on-trend with a Mediterranean menu,



photos by susan laughlin

Left: Arepas served with fried plantains Right: Shrimp curry with mussels and calamari

featuring interesting dishes from Greece and Italy, not just Italian-American dishes. Wine connoisseur Rufus Boyett offered suggestions and helped pair Italian wines with the appropriate dishes. It was probably the first place in Manchester to offer tapas-size dishes. And maybe it was bit too early for the times. Meanwhile, Rosa and Johnny decided to call it quits. In time, she partnered with Matthew Mailloux, and eventually gave birth to her second set of twins, two boys this time. And Johnny, the nice guy he is, wished them well. Rosa decided to take over the lease of Taste of Europe. Rosa and Matt had a new vision for the space. In 2009, they hired designers Leslie Rifkin and Paul Mansback of Manchester to redesign the space. Gone were the autumn-hued wall murals of the Italian countryside and constricting layout. XO on Elm was born with a fresh, contemporary look, featuring walls of white faux brick, a bright, inviting bar with cozy table seating and clever light fixtures, while the dining room space was moved to the front, where diners could look out and passersby could look in. It was hip. Rosa took the best from the last experiment and developed a new menu, featuring what had worked in the past. (Those stuffed

dates seem to have survived every iteration.) She focused again on tapas, as dining trends were changing. People liked to be able to eat small or choose several dishes to share. She lost her startup chef, Kevin Donahue, who went on to cook for employees at Dyn from 2012 to 2015. (A Google search found him as a Realtor for Keller Williams at present.) Good help was always hard to find, and, at times, she was depending on talented relatives from Venezuela. Rosa tried more new things — tableside cooking and tableside sangria. After all, she was the queen of tableside Caesar from days of yore. She brought in Chef Rosa D’Agostino, her aunt from Puglia, to help for a short time. Tastes were changing, and Rosa also happened to be interested in healthy dining. In 2016, she added a raft of nutritious dishes with fresh ingredients, including colorful, natural dips for crudité. A plan to offer healthy but boozy shakes from a sidewalk bar did not get approved by the city. Eventually she found herself looking for a new chef yet again. This past year, she went back to visit relatives in Venezuela and found Chef Leonardo. He was happy to come to America for the work and greater freedom. Currently, you’ll find many new items on the menu with a Latin influence. Chef Leonardo has

worked carefully with Rosa and responded to her vision for a healthy menu, and yes, now one very compliant with a host of dietary restrictions that diners are requesting — no, are demanding. It’s 2018, and the new XO on Elm features arepas, a type of sandwich that pre-Hispanic Venezuelans ate daily and still continue to relish. They are made with corn flour and served with fried plantains. Find tequeños, a baked cheese stick wrapped in dough; a slow-simmered farmers beef rib soup with yucca and plantains; a Peruvian shrimp bisque and a variety of paella, including one made with cauliflower rice for the carb-phobic. There are also gluten-free empanadas, and a delicious gnocchi made with plantains and hence gluten-free. The dining public demanded and Rosa responded ... with ceviche and an entire list of vegan offerings. A look through the current menu is a step back through the greatest hits for XO on Elm and Rosa’s quick-footed response to keep the dance going. Sure, there is this new thing — Latin inspiration — but rest assured your favorite dishes — Chilean sea bass, braised beef ravioli, Madeira chicken with figs and braised lamb shanks — remain along with tapas-style lamb lollipops and, of course, the stuffed figs. It’s a good thing — it’s Rosa’s history. NH | June 2018




Small Bites Food news and events from around the state by Susan Laughlin

Tequila Surprise

photo by susan laughlin

Selections of tequila offerings have expanded recently at the NH Liquor and Wine Outlets across the state. The NH Liquor Commission hand-selected 20 individual barrels of ultra-premium, barrel-aged tequila from the Patrón, Herradura and Casa Noble distilleries in Mexico. Barrels from each vary greatly in flavor profile, aging process and proof, and are available in bottles until supplies run out. In addition, the commission approached ProMéxico for products from eight small distillers. One such distillery is Tequila Espectacular in Jalisco with a interesting bottle configuration that offers a blanco, reposado and anejo, each in separate small bottles that stack. The blanco is perfect for margaritas, while the more aged versions can be sipped neat. The company is run totally by women. $55.99. Visit to check store inventories.

month June 8 Event ofythe Gala Great Gatsb

Hike for Hunger

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Presented by Community Toolbox, a nonprofit that does home repairs for “neighbors in need,” this gala event at Flag Hill Distillery & Winery in Lee is a chance to step back to the roaring ’20s with jazzy swing music, dinner, cigar bar and a silent auction. In the immortal words of F. Scott Fitzgerald, “A little party never killed nobody.” Be sure to dress your best for the era! VIP tickets are $100 and general admission is $75.

Chefs on the Rise, initiated by Chef Instructor Jayson McCarter at the New Hampshire Food Bank, is raising awareness of hunger and leading chefs up Mt. Major on June 4. It’s a day out of the kitchen for chefs, and a chance to discuss and share ideas for giving back to the community — all while putting one foot in front of the other. The public is invited to donate to the Food Bank in honor of their favorite chef. Pete and Gerry’s Eggs is a program sponsor for this “egg-citing” event. Check to make contributions to the Food Bank on behalf of the chef (or chefs) of your choice. The initiative will culminate in September with a showing of the “Windows to the Wild” segment filmed on the day of the climb.



From left: Brad Whitford, David Hull, Gary Cherone, Jason Sutter and Joe Perry (also in inset) onstage at the Hampton Beach Casino Ballroom on April 19

High Rollers

As musical landmarks go, Hampton’s Casino Ballroom is New Hampshire’s Rock of Ages PHOTOS AND REVIEW BY ILYA MIRMAN


oe Perry is not one to slow down during the downtime between Aerosmith’s world tours. The band’s legendary guitarist, co-founding member, principal songwriter and co-producer has kept busy — recently releasing his sixth solo album, “Sweetzerland Manifesto,” featuring guest appearances by Joe’s friends, colleagues, and rock and roll icons, including Cheap Trick’s Robin Zander, New York Doll’s David Johansen, singer/songwriter Terry Reid and Johnny Depp. Aerosmith has deep roots in New Hampshire — both Perry and singer Steven Tyler spent their childhood summers at Lake Sunapee, and it was there that the band members met and got their start playing at The Barn.

Returning to his old stomping grounds to help launch his new album, Perry with a star-studded ensemble billed as “Joe Perry & Friends” performed an electrifying set April 19 at the Hampton Beach Casino Ballroom, a storied music venue that has hosted countless acts, including B.B. King, Led Zeppelin, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, Simon & Garfunkel and U2. An amazing aspect of the Casino Ballroom is that the intimate venue hosts acts that have sold out arenas and performed for tens of thousands at a time. And yet here they are, within an arm’s reach of every fan — a connection impossible to achieve in other settings. Joining Perry on stage were his Aerosmith bandmate Brad Whitford, Gary Cherone of Extreme on lead vocals, David Hull on bass, drummer Jason Sutter (New York Dolls,

Chris Cornell, Cher, Marilyn Manson, Smash Mouth) and Guns N’ Roses’ Dizzy Reed on keyboards. Opening for Perry were special guests Charlie Farren (lead singer of The Joe Perry Project) and former Boston guitarist Barry Goudreau’s Engine Room. The three sets spanned seven decades of rock, and featured classics and satisfying deep cuts from Aerosmith, Joe Perry and Boston. And, I’m happy to report that tracks from “Sweetzerland Manifesto” fit right in with the classics. Joe Perry is a train that’s kept a rollin’ indeed. As summer gets rolling, so too does the live music (and other entertainment) at the legendary Hampton Beach Casino Ballroom. This season’s performances include the B-52s, the Beach Boys, KC & The Sunshine Band, Awolnation, Buddy Guy with Johnny Lang, O.A.R. and more. See the schedule and get tickets at NH | June 2018




The Iron Path

Via ferrata makes climbing more accessible BY MARTY BASCH


hough the Italian phrase via ferrata — or iron path — may sound a tad menacing, it’s actually a way to climb with greater safety. Basically, modern via ferrata refers to a protected route that assists climbers in steep, stony terrain. It’s a bridge between climbing and scrambling. These rocky mountain ways are associated with World War I, when they were built in Italy’s Dolomite region to better help troops move around. Over the years, these types of routes, which have steel cables running along fixed rungs, ladders, bridges and other enhancements, have gained notice in recreational climbing across the country. The appeal is simple: safety. Climbers are harnessed to the cable, which then limits the distance of a fall. More experienced climbers can cover more ground faster, while beginning climbers limit the risk of taking on a new endeavor. Though these trails are more popular in Europe, there is a growing number of opportunities across the United States, includ-

30 | June 2018

ing right here in New Hampshire. You’ll find them on the adventure experience menu at various tourist destinations. Polar Caves in Rumney may be known for its nine tight granite caves, animal park, prospecting and nature trails, but it also offers rock climbing on granite cliffs with ladders, rungs and cable for a via ferrata experience in the White Mountains. Rumney, like North Conway, is an East Coast climbing mecca with numerous topnotch routes on Rattlesnake Mountain. So it was natural for the privately held attraction to offer rock climbing. Two years ago, the via ferrata route opened, allowing for a 175-foot ascent to commanding views of the Baker River, Rumney, Plymouth and Campton before rappelling down. They also opened the 65-foot Glacial Wall, a family-friendly rock face that has five different routes with natural and artificial holds for hands and feet for climbers aged 6 and up. “We have fantastic granite faces and it was a waste not to do anything with them,” says

Grounds Manager Dan Bryant, a seven-year Polar Caves employee. “Rumney has Rattlesnake Mountain, which is famous on the East Coast. We decided to open this up for beginners and give them a chance to climb at our place.” The approximately 90-minute guided climb and descent is for climbers at least 13 years of age. Climbers are provided with a harness and helmet. They can wear closedtoe hiking boots or comfortable sneakers. It’s also a fairly physical experience, so thrill-seeking couch potatoes, take note. There’s no more than one guide for a group with a maximum size of six. According to Bryant, a typical session starts at base camp with safety instruction on proper use of gear and conduct. Climbers are harnessed up and start by navigating a ladder affixed to the rock, clipping to every other rung. Once over the ladder, it’s on to ascending by steel rungs. Climbers are clipped in, and should they slip, the maximum drop is about 5 feet. Then, from the top, climbers rappel down under the watchful eye of their guide. They’re belayed — a safety technique using a climbing rope so that a climber doesn’t fall very far — by an assistant down at the bottom. As people climb, they also learn about the natural environment along the way.

photo courtesy of the polar caves

Ladders along the via ferrata at the Polar Caves assist climbers making their way up the rock face.



five pitches. Climbers ride the Bethlehem Express Chairlift and then take a short hike through the spruce and fir forest to the base of the cliff. When the climbing is over, it’s about a 20-minute, largely downhill hike back to the chairlift.

The West Wall climb at Bretton Woods

“This attracts anyone who has a sense of adventure,” says Nichipor, a 25-year rock climbing veteran. “They’re in reasonable physical fitness. A lot of them have wanted to try rock climbing but were maybe intimidated by the skills and equipment.” The resort also has an indoor climbing wall and a canopy tour. People who enjoy

the high-flying adventure of zipping from tree to tree often also try the West Wall experience, according to Nichipor. With the wall located within the national forest and subject to its regulation, no fixed elements such as metal cables and rungs are allowed, making the West Wall the next best thing in northern New Hampshire. Bretton Woods keeps the “via ferrata inspired” program somewhat small with a ratio of three people per guide. Group and individual tours are available with guides working to choose the most appropriate route. Participants under 12 must be accompanied by a parent. So surround yourself in the White Mountains by scaling new heights on an iron path in the Granite State. NH

Get There

Polar Caves 705 Rumney Route 25, Rumney (603) 536-1888 Bretton Woods 99 Ski Area Rd., Bretton Woods (603) 278-3320

photo courtesy of bretton woods

The route up the wall is clean, but off to the sides are plants such as lichen, moss, birch saplings and shrubs. There are also plenty of rocks and minerals to be seen, including granite, mica and a huge quartz vein of both regular and smoky varieties. Farther north, Bretton Woods has what its climbing program director Steve Nichipor says is a “via ferrata inspired” experience called the West Wall Climbing Excursion. The guided outing, which has been offered since 2011, takes participants as young as 8 up a massive granite cliff on the side of Mount Oscar, known as West Mountain to skiers. Climbers navigate the low-angled cliff using fixed routes attached to stainless steel bolts in the rock. The 400-foot routes ascend to 3,000 feet with 360 degree views of the White Mountain National Forest and its Presidential Range, Zealand Valley and other impressive peaks. The 3-hour tour has some unique aspects. Though climbers are outfitted with a harness, helmet and rubber-soled shoes, they don’t have to learn to belay. Another distinction from traditional climbing is that the excursion involves using a chairlift to access the slab and its | June 2018


603 Informer In the door-yard fronting an old farm-house, near the white-wash’d palings, Stands the lilac bush, tall-growing, with heart-shaped leaves of rich green, With many a pointed blossom, rising, delicate, with the perfume strong I love, With every leaf a miracle ... and from this bush in the door-yard, With delicate-color’d blossoms, and heart-shaped leaves of rich green, A sprig, with its flower, I break. — Walt Whitman

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First Person 34 Artisan 36 Blips 37 Out and About 38 Politics 39

Lilac Love

Our state flower has deep roots in New Hampshire Did you know that the lilacs at the Wentworth-Coolidge Mansion in Portsmouth are the oldest in the country? As early as 1750, Royal Governor Benning Wentworth had them planted around his home in Little Harbor. Large, healthy bushes once surrounded the mansion, but over the last two decades or so, they became infected with Armillaria, or honey fungus. Sadly, there’s no cure, and the infected lilacs must be removed and destroyed to prevent the fungus from spreading. But it’s not all bad news. The Wentworth-Coolidge Commission is working hard to fight the fungus, and has developed a plan to restore the heirloom lilacs on the mansion’s grounds. You can visit the mansion to learn more and see the plants for yourself — the grounds are open daily from dawn to dusk and tours are offered Wednesday through Sunday on the hour from 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Visit for more information. For those with photography skills, bring the camera along and enter the Governor’s Lilac and Wildflower Commission’s lilac photo contest. Details on how to submit photos can be found at | June 2018



Tunneling to the Great Bay By Bike

It’s not the fastest way there, but it’s worth the ride BY ROB SNEDDON


’ve lived in the Seacoast Region for more than 20 years, yet much of the area remains a mystery to me. My impression has largely been limited to what I’ve glimpsed while zipping along a grid of numbered highways: 1, 4, 9, 11, 16, 95, 101, 108, 125, 202, 236. I’d like to see more of what lies between those strands of asphalt. That explains, more or less, what drew me to the Rockingham Recreational Trail. Well, that and the fact that the prospect of a long bike ride always turns me into a kid again. (How old am I? Put it this way: The Schwinn mountain bike that my wife gave me for my 40th birthday is now an antique.)

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The unpaved trail stretches for 27.5 miles along a defunct rail line between Manchester and the abandoned Rockingham Junction depot in Newfields. Passenger service on the line — once called the Portsmouth Branch of the Boston & Maine Railroad — began during the Civil War and continued for 100 years. (Freight service ended in 1982.) Pedaling the length of the trail gives a sense of what it was like to travel in New Hampshire before the car culture arrived. (The state motto really should be Live Free and Drive.) The 21st century recedes as you pass through long stretches of woodlands and wetlands. If you start at the trail’s eastern end, you don’t have to ride too far to see how the

photos by tammy sneddon


Rob Sneddon on the trail with his “antique” Schwinn mountain bike

adjoining Ash Swamp Road got its name. You skirt Onway Lake in Raymond and Massabesic Lake in Auburn, along with smaller bodies of water such as Hook Brook and the Piscassic River. Monolithic granite outcroppings loom along the edge of the Dearborn forest, blending in with the dark trees so well that it would be easy to miss them. Fair warning, though: Don’t expect total solitude. At times, especially on the western end, the trail veers uncomfortably close to civilization’s service entrances, loading docks and garages. You feel like a trespasser, like you’re cutting through your neighbor’s yard. One homeowner whose property abuts the trail apparently shares that sense of violated personal space. A crude sign reads TURN BACK — the intent, apparently, to instill an “Abandon All Hope Ye Who Enter Here” level of impending doom that would discourage people from continuing. So if you’re looking for an extreme mountain biking experience, the Rockingham Recreational Trail isn’t it. Even





Epping Newfields


in the deepest and darkest stretches of woods, you’re aware that you’re following an old railway line. The grade is level, the curves are gradual, and the route is so straight that the canopy of trees resembles a tunnel. It’s like looking the wrong way through a telescope. But that enhances the experience, at

least for me. I enjoy seeing vestiges of New Hampshire’s railroad heyday. The most obvious are in Raymond, where the old depot on Main Street has been converted to a historical society. Several pieces of rolling stock, including a rusting Boston & Maine caboose, sit alongside. A little farther east, where the trail leapfrogs the Lamprey River, are a couple of steel-beam railroad bridges that date to the 1940s. Solid wood decks make the bridges passable for bicyclists. Time and the transportation infrastructure have moved on since the trains stopped running. A cooperative of bicycling and snowmobiling organizations maintains the trail and has improvised smaller bridges through marshy areas. There are also tunnels under roadbeds that obviously could never have accommodated trains. Actually, the “tunnels” are nothing more than repurposed culverts. A rider with severe claustrophobia might not be able to handle them. In the longest and darkest tunnel, which passes under both barrels of Route 101 in Candia, the ceiling was so low that I decided to walk my bike through it. The interior was dim and the wooden planks that served as a bed gave a little with each step, adding to the slightly creepy aspect. Coming out the other end was liberating. It felt like tunneling to freedom — a reminder that I was traveling outside the jurisdiction of the New Hampshire Department of Transportation. I was free to set my own pace. It was a pace considerably slower even than rail travel of a century ago. According


The Rockingham Recreational Trail follows an old railroad, where train cars can still be seen along the way.

to a 1918 railway timetable, the trip from East Manchester to Rockingham Junction took an hour and four minutes. It took me most of an afternoon. Still, as I approached the end of the trail back at Rockingham Junction, I felt a connection with the railroad travelers of the early 20th century. Two active lines still converge just past the old depot. One of those lines leads to Boston; as I was completing the last leg of my ride, the southbound Downeaster clacked past after its 3:30 p.m. stop in Durham. The other active line is what remains of the original Portsmouth Branch. Pan Am Railways now uses it to transport propane a few miles to a terminal in Newington. A locomotive sat at idle across the road as I dismounted from my ride. After wrestling my heavy, ancient mountain bike into my car, I took a last backward glance at the abandoned depot and the idling engine that sat at the end of the line. Then I pulled onto Route 108 and rejoined the Seacoast’s highway grid — and the 21st century. NH

photos by rob sneddon; author photo by eye sugar photography

The tunnels on the trail are actually repurposed culverts.

Somersworth resident Rob Sneddon is a longtime journalist who has published two books, “Boston’s 100 Greatest Games” and “The Phantom Punch.” In addition to pedaling the length of the Rockingham Recreational Trail, he has bicycled across the country and flown around the world on the Concorde. | June 2018




No Tree Before Its Time Preserving nature with the kindest cut BY SUSAN LAUGHLIN


beautiful cutting board is not the worst of fates for a tree. Woodworker Matt Carstens takes pride in harvesting a tree that is just past its prime, but not in decay. He finds his raw materials near his Whitefield home, at local log lots or from arborists. Carstens chooses a piece of lumber from his stash and then decides its ultimate destination. The lumber has been stacked and dried for one to three years and further dried with a solar kiln. A piece selected for its grain may be cut into a gentle shape, while strips of narrower pieces may be glued together and cut into the shape of a state. Thickness can vary up to 1.5 inches for a butcher block look. Closed grain woods, like maple and yellow birch, make better cutting boards because, unlike oak and mahogany, they will not harbor bacteria, says Carstens. Beyond kitchen tools, Carstens also creates bookmarks, bookends, coffee tables and consoles, and he just finished a daybed. All these products will be showcased in his new shop, The Tree Trunk, to open soon in downtown Littleton. What is the future of our forests? Carstens says, “Because the climate is warming, we will lose maples and ash trees, but foster more oak and beech.” He suggests we try to conserve species, and not burn prized trees for firewood — an ignoble end, indeed. NH

Black cherry cutting board, $100

36 | June 2018

photo by chris fortin

Matt Carstens The Tree Trunk 15 Main St., Littleton Etsy, CarstensCreations (603) 259-6002



Blips Monitoring appearances of the 603 on the media radar since 2006

Pup-parazzi! Local pooches in digital spotlight on “The Dogist”

Paul Bellefeuille (center) joined by his “Super Troopers 2” co-stars at a recent premiere in Boston

From NH to “Super” Stardom One Kingston actor’s French-Canadian roots helped him land a coveted role in the sequel to a cop comedy cult hit BY CASEY MCDERMOTT

courtesy photos: shared with permission from

@seacoastlatey, @igersnh

on instagram


n some ways, Paul Bellefeuille has been preparing for his role in “Super Troopers 2” his whole life. Bellefeuille’s family hails from Quebec, and the soundtrack to his childhood in Leominster, Massachusetts, was a chorus of French-Canadian voices belonging to his relatives and neighbors. His uncle was even a Mountie. That last part is especially pertinent to Bellefeuille’s latest big-screen cameo in “Super Troopers 2” — the sequel to the 2001 cult comedy, wherein a squad of bumbling Vermont State Troopers are now tasked with enforcing a patch of land along the US-Canadian border. Once Bellefeuille learned that the film crew was looking for actors with a convincing French-Canadian accent, he was determined to do whatever it took to land a part — including showing up to his audition in character, a bold move by any traditional theatrical standards. “I have three teeth that are removable, so I figured I’d remove them and roll the dice,” Bellefeuille recalled. “I thought, what have I got to lose?” Luckily, his gamble worked — he landed laughs, callbacks and, eventually, a spot in the cast. While the Royal Canadian Mounted Police are in his family, Bellefeuille’s role isn’t actually

A trio of stately Labrador retrievers standing stoically outside a Dartmouth fraternity house, a wide-eyed golden retriever smiling on the college green and a pair of sharply dressed dachshunds sporting matching jackets were among the Hanover-area canines recently showcased on one of the internet’s most beloved dog blogs. “The Dogist” — launched in 2013 by Elias Weiss Friedman — takes its cues from “The Sartorialist,” a popular street-style site for humans. “The whole mission of The Dogist is to tell stories — the story of dogs,” Friedman says. “They inspire us, and we admire them because of their candor. They have this ability to be themselves without restraint. And very few people can do that.” @TheDogist/Elias Weiss Friedman

an officer. Instead, it’s “Angry Canadian,” a disgruntled driver who grows exasperated over the troopers’ inability to understand the metric system. The exchange is brief, but it does serve as one of the promotional teasers released on Facebook ahead of the film’s April debut. As of press time, Bellefeuille’s clip had been watched at least 66,000 times. Before turning more intently toward professional acting, Bellefeuille spent years as a radio personality. And eagle-eared listeners of local station WZID might recognize a familiar tone in Bellefeuille’s “Super Troopers” part: He channeled the same dialect he used to play “Pinardville Pierre,” the leading rodent in a Groundhog Day skit he once improvised with his former broadcast colleagues. “Super Troopers 2” isn’t Bellefeuille’s only big role lately. He had a prominent role in “The Discovery” — a 2017 sci-fi thriller starring Rooney Mara, Jason Segel and Robert Redford, among other big names. He’s also slated to appear in the upcoming Hulu adaptation of Stephen King’s “Castle Rock.” And as someone who’s trying his best to fulfill a lifelong aspiration to make it as an actor, he’s especially grateful for the extra opportunities afforded by the ever-expanding universe of on-demand networks. “It does provide an awful lot of opportunity for people who normally wouldn’t be able to get a gig, or become seen,” Bellefeuille says. “There’s so much more content.” We’ll stay tuned. NH

The Dogist spotted Cabot the golden retriever on the Dartmouth Green: “He hasn’t stayed at home a single day in his nine years — he’s a working dog,” Friedman wrote. (Follow @TheDogist on Twitter and Instagram for more.)

The bulk of Friedman’s pup portraits are based in New York City, where he lives, but he’s been all over the map. A few Newbury, NH, pups showed up on his feed during a hike there last year, and he stopped by the Dartmouth College campus this spring after a photo shoot with a nearby family of Bernese mountain dogs. Friedman says he relishes the challenge of finding portrait subjects outside of New York City, where it seems there are posh pups on every corner: “You have to work for it a little bit harder,” he says of the dogspotting scene in places like New Hampshire, “but when you find it, it’s often really special.” We’d bet most Granite State dog owners would proudly agree. | June 2018




Out and About Food Fight

4/16 The Steel Chef Challenge









photos by susan laughlin

The third annual Steel Chef Challenge, to benefit the New Hampshire Food Bank, was held at the Downtown Manchester Hotel. Hosted by Food Network celebrity — and Iron Chef — Alex Guarnaschelli, the evening featured a culinary battle, dinner and live auction. Local chefs, using surprise ingredients voted on by the audience, competed for the title of Steel Chef as attendees watched the action unfold. This year’s champion was Chef Lee Frank of Otis in Exeter.


1 Chef Matt Provencher — a former Steel Chef Challenge competitor — rolled in with (or on) the ingredients. 2 The chefs included Lee Frank of Otis in Exeter, Jen Hiller of The Tuckaway Tavern & Butchery in Raymond, Luca Paris of Luca’s Mediterranean Café in Keene and Kaylon Sweet of the Laconia Local Eatery.

3 Kaylon Sweet 4 Alex Guarnaschelli and Luca Paris 5 This year’s winner Lee Frank 6 Manchester Mayor Joyce Craig 7 Jen Hiller 8 Last year’s winner, Tony Bomba of The Common Man Family of Restaurants, presents the trophy knife with Alex Guarnaschelli. 9 From left: Judges Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS show “Ciao Italia with Mary Ann Esposito,” the 2016 Steel Chef Challenge winner Chef David Crinieri of Tuscan Kitchen & Market and WMUR’s Erin Fehlau

38 | June 2018


illustration by peter noonan


Sweeping Change The next political wave could reshape things BY JAMES PINDELL


ere is a stunning fact that people can’t get their heads around: In the history of the United States, there have never been as many members of Congress who have decided not to seek reelection as there are in 2018. When all the new faces are sworn in next year, by definition, American politics will look much different. Now, as the June filing period for New Hampshire candidates is upon us, a pressing question is whether those in Concord will decide to walk away as well. There is no one reason this year why someone might decide to walk away from a job they’ve spent years trying to get. Yes, some Republicans in swing districts might calculate they are likely to lose anyway, in what is expected to be a Democratic wave, so why bother? But the changing nature of politics since the Trump election provides other reasons. For example, for all the talk about how the Republican Party is split, the Democrats enter the midterm elections even more fundamentally split in terms of which direction it needs to take in the future.

That’s why a number of longstanding incumbents are leaving — they can see there is a hunger among their base to support candidates who are younger, more diverse and more progressive than the old guard. Expect to see some of the “older guard” depart for the same reasons. Also, in the era of the Trump presidency, public discourse has become mean and intense. If you need proof, take a look at your social media feed these days and just imagine what it must be like to have people saying the worst things about you — and often threatening your family — every day and nearly every hour. No one would be surprised if even the most thick-skinned politician who generally ignores the comments would decide the vitriolic nature of the business just isn’t worth it any longer. And, as always, there are personal reasons for why someone may leave a job. Such reasons were behind New Hampshire’s most prominent political retirement this year, US Representative Carol Shea-Porter, who almost certainly would have won reelection.

During the June filing period, we will find out how many at the Statehouse will join her. The New Hampshire Legislature is the largest — and most volunteer-filled — legislature in the country. While no one officially tracks this statistic, it most assuredly has the highest turnover rate in the country as well. Certainly the long hours involved and the pay of $100 a year doesn’t inspire sticking around for long periods of time. The rule of thumb in any year is that about a third of the New Hampshire House and Senate decide not to seek reelection. If the national trends hold up, it’s possible that the turnover rate this election year may rise to as high as 50 percent. What does all of this mean for New Hampshire voters? It could mean that there will be new leaders from each party. It could mean that when it comes to bills that have been close to passing — such as expanded gambling, repealing the death penalty or legalizing marijuana — there could be breakthroughs. But maybe more importantly, no matter your political persuasion, it will mean that a new group of people will engage their communities and step up for public service, even in such intense times. That fact should be celebrated. NH | June 2018




The Eye Guy Photo by Chris Saunders Downtown Concord has undergone a lot of change over the past few years with a complete redesign of the streetscape, but perhaps the most eye-catching thing throughout the process has been a giant eyeball, gazing down from the second-floor studio of artist/creator Tom Devaney. The big eye has delighted and puzzled many visitors and become a bit of a tourist attraction in its own right, but Devaney, who also teaches drawing and sculpture at NHTI, thinks it has served its purpose, and he even threw a going-away party for it on March 29. What’s next? Wait and see, he says.

My studio is on the corner of Main Street and Pleasant, so people were always looking up to see what was going on. I thought it would be interesting if the studio was looking back at everyone as well. I was hoping to create a little awe and mystery in town — to make something that stopped people and gave them a smile. I could operate the Eye remotely from home, and also had a camera in the studio to see who was looking. Sometimes if I saw someone on the street looking up, I would change the image just to have some fun. Everyone seems to like the Eye. Some children have told me that it’s scary, but they like it. It is my eye. I do have three other eyes that I put up on special occasions. Art can take you out of your singular vision and show you possibilities. One thought or idea can start you on a course you may never have believed possible.

As far back as I can remember, I was always drawing and making sculptures. When I was 9 years old, I started taking art classes at the Huntington Fine Arts Workshop in Huntington, Long Island, New York. This is when I started to think that being an artist was even possible. Success, to me, is connecting with people, making them think and feel. I am inspired by how cultural ideas connect us and how they shape people. It is important to react and respond to the time you are living in. Inspiration can come from anywhere — history, movies, books and new technologies. I liked the Eye because it was different and unexpected. Once it was no longer serving that function, I felt that it was time to move on to something new. I am working on a way to reflect Concord back on itself.

A look inside: Here’s a shot from the “Say Goodbye to the Eye” party held in March, where dozens of locals dropped in to look at the rest of the studio (many posed for selfies with the big Eye). Tom Devaney has had his Concord studio space for more than a decade, but he lives in Bow with his wife, Catherine. Studio hours are flexible, but it’s always worth a walk upstairs to see if he’s in, or you can check out his work on Facebook and at | June 2018



Do you love bug juice, ghost stories, toasted marshmallows and Color Wars? Then thank the Granite State, home to America’s first sleepaway camp. By Darren Garnick

Camp Tecumseh Lodge in the early 1900s. Founded in 1903 by three Olympic athletes from the University of Pennsylvania, Tecumseh is still open today.


ew Hampshire is best known as the first-in-the-nation state for the presidential primaries, but it is also the birthplace of America’s first overnight summer camp. In 1881, Dartmouth College dropout Ernest Balch bought Squam Lake’s Chocorua Island and created Camp Chocorua — aimed at the children of wealthy tourists visiting the White Mountains. His goal was to prevent as many rich kids as possible from becoming spoiled brats. A recent exhibit at the Museum of the White Mountains at Plymouth State University put it this way: “Rather than let the self-indulgence of high society erode the character of these youth, Balch envisioned a different kind of resort; one where boys could find challenge, not champagne, canoes instead of crystal chandeliers, and an earthen bed instead of fine linen. He wanted the boys to learn self-governance, the value of money, and a strong work ethic while experiencing adventures like those portrayed in dime novels.” Camp Chocorua lasted only nine years. It lacked the water and sewage treatment infrastructure to support its surging enrollment. However, this failed camp inspired a movement. According to the Museum of the White Mountains, there have been more than 450 overnight camps on New Hampshire soil since Chocorua went belly-up. Several of the earliest pioneers — such as Camp Pasquaney (1895), Camp Hale (1900),

Camp Mowglis (1903), Camp Tecumseh (1903) and Camp Pemigewassett (1908) — are still going strong. Although there are still some elite programs that require taking out a second mortgage, sleepaway camps are no longer exclusively for rich kids. Boy Scout and Girl Scout camps, YMCA camps, charity-sponsored camps and religious camps — not to mention scholarship funds — have made this rite of passage a more universal experience. If anthropologists want to study what American childhood was like before the scourge of mobile phones, this is where you can still go to observe kids in the wild. For many boys and girls, camp is a magical paradise to try new things — mountain biking, water skiing, horseback riding, ceramics, drama, etc. — and make new friends. It’s a place for pillow fights, “Mad Libs,” campfire sing-alongs, hokey skits, bunk pranks and, sometimes, a first kiss. For others, it’s a sadistic punishment where you’re forced to make your bed and share a bathroom (or God forbid, an outhouse) with a few dozen strangers. It’s also where grown-ups will nag you daily to bathe in bug repellent, but the mosquitoes will still get you. Oh yes, they will get you. Whether you look back at summer camp as a blessing or a curse, we’re betting that your bunk-bed days had a tremendous influence on who you became as an adult. To prove that theory, we asked alumni from five New Hampshire summer camps to share their most vivid memories (with this author providing a bonus sixth flashback). There’s academic evidence suggesting

that summer camps instill independence and self-confidence in kids, and teach them teamwork and responsibility. However, those are intangible benefits usually not recognized until years later. So what do campers care about in real time? Check out this 2015 letter home from Amherst’s Lauren Bentley-Melle, who defiantly boasts about eating a Snickers bar every night at Camp Calumet and creating Coke-and-Mentos explosions in her cheeks. Lauren’s mother Andrea, who works as the camp’s nurse, shares her own Calumet memories on page 45. Cavity risks aside, Lauren’s note is a reminder that summer camps are also responsible for preserving the art of handwritten letters. To parents’ delight, many camps force kids to write home at least once a week. | June 2018


Newfound Lake

Dave Concannon

David Concannon Deep Sea Explorer Camp Mowglis (1977-1979) Hebron

Sunken Treasure

Adventurer David Concannon, who has explored some of the world’s most famous shipwrecks, recalls his first underwater discovery in Newfound Lake. There’s a tradition at Camp Mowglis — named after the boy in Rudyard Kipling’s “The Jungle Book” — that involves swimming from the waterfront to Waingunga Rock, a submerged rock marked with a buoy to warn boaters to steer clear. Camper David Concannon thought it would be fun to look at the rock with a diving mask and snorkel. During his swim, he stumbled across the wooden ribs of a small boat (about the size of an SUV). It had an old rusty engine and was mostly covered with mud and leaves. Concannon accidentally discovered the remnants of a mailboat that crashed on Waingunga Rock in 1912. At that time, there were fewer roads in rural New Hampshire and it was sometimes more efficient to deliver mail by horseback and/or by boat. “It wasn’t anything gigantic, but I was fascinated by it,” Concannon recalls. “It was a piece of history, and even though I later learned that some old-timers knew about it, my friends and I didn’t know this wreck existed.”

Titanic explorer Dave Concannon first pushed his limits at Camp Mowglis. In the 1979 “Howl” yearbook, he’s shown hiking the ridge between Mt. Lincoln and Mt. Lafayette, and hanging out with his bunkmates in front of the Mowglis Den.

Concannon now is a lawyer and business/ operational consultant for professional high-risk expeditions, including six to the RMS Titanic and two to Mt. Everest. But he doesn’t just handle paperwork. He’s organized and led deep submersible dives to the Titanic wreck and searched 180 square miles of the Atlantic Ocean floor to recover the Apollo F-1 rocket engines that launched the first astronauts to the moon. “I first learned how to snorkel and scuba dive at camp, and I now represent almost all of the scuba diving equipment manufacturers in the United States,” Concannon says. 44 | June 2018

“There’s definitely a direct line between that 20-foot mailboat dive and exploring the Titanic 2.5 miles under the sea. “I was a scholarship kid raised by a single mother and we didn’t have a lot growing up. I’m still heavily involved with Camp Mowglis because I firmly believe camp made me who I am today. I want other kids to have the same opportunity,” he adds. “Camp taught me what I was capable of — and it was so much more than I thought. I learned how to handle myself. I learned how to tough it out sometimes. I learned how to get along with people.”

Ossipee Lake

Andrea Bentley-Melle, Nurse Camp Calumet (1984-1988) Freedom

Homesickness Is a Rare Diagnosis Camp Calumet nurse Andrea Bentley-Melle used to stay as far away from the infirmary as possible.

It’s not often that one reminisces about brushing her teeth more than 30 years ago. But Andrea Bentley-Melle can still feel the euphoria from her first night at Camp Calumet. “I remember going to the bathhouse after we had a campfire. I was standing at the sink and thinking, ‘I love this place. I love it already. We haven’t even had a whole day here and I love how it feels. I love being outside. I

love being with other kids.’ I was hooked. “I couldn’t understand when another camper was homesick. Because I thought, they feed us, we get to play, we do all these fun activities. What more could you want?” she recalls. “And even though it was a Lutheran camp, the faith element wasn’t boring. It wasn’t crammed down our throats or made to feel formal and serious like church. You just felt God’s presence all around you — in the sky, in the pine needles, everywhere.” Bentley-Melle confesses avoiding the camp health center if she had a headache because her “biggest fear was that they were going to tell me I was sick and had to go home.” Ironically, she became the Camp Calumet nurse in 2010, and now encounters kids with the same fear. “I’ve had kids with a fever cry and tell me they wait all year for this. They don’t want to go home.” Homesickness is more rare today, she says, because counselors are better trained to recognize and address it. Bentley-Melle’s daughters Lauren, 12, and Rowen, 16, have attended Calumet the past few years, but have communicated by snail mail to maintain the same brushing-your-teeth feeling of independence their mother first experienced in 1984.

Andrea Bentley-Melle with her family at Camp Calumet

“Both girls love it,” says Bentley-Melle, who is also a nurse at the Mountain View Middle School in Goffstown. “And I love that they’re packing their own clothes for the week and being responsible for taking care of themselves. I might only see them in camp two or three times the entire time. Otherwise, we are only in touch through writing letters.”

Future nurse Andrea Bentley-Melle loved the idea of a Lutheran camp that didn’t feel like church. “You just felt God’s presence in the sky, in the pine needles, everywhere,” she says. | June 2018


Purity Lake


Eugene Mirman, Comedian Ilya Mirman, Marketing Exec Camp Tohkomeupog (1982-1983), East Madison

First Pranks

For the Moscow-born Mirman brothers, Camp Tohkomeupog was a crash course in American culture. Three decades before the Era of Fake News, new Russian immigrants Eugene and Ilya Mirman learned not to believe everything they heard — just like in their old country. Eugene was only 8 years old, the prime age for gullibility, when Camp Tohkomeupog counselors came up with an elaborate hoax to convince the youngest campers there was a total solar eclipse. While their campers were sleeping, the counselors stealthily set all the kids’ watches five hours ahead. “It was pretty impressive,” recalls Eugene. “They had reveille with the bugles to wake everybody up — and we all lined up like we usually did. It’s really 2 a.m., but we all think it’s 7 a.m. They tell us there’s an eclipse and that’s why it’s dark (presumably the ruse worked because the moon wasn’t visible). Then they said we could either continue our day or as a special treat, we could go back to sleep. “Then in the morning, we saw the kids in the other age groups and our group was like, ‘Oh my God, did you see the eclipse?’ and we bragged that we got to sleep late. And they said, ‘What are you talking about? It’s 8 o’clock in the morning!” Older brother Ilya, then 13, faced counselor hoaxsters of his own. His bunk was told that it was a Tohkomeupog tradition for kids to walk barefoot on hot coals at the first campfire of the season. To allegedly protect themselves from burns, the campers were urged to rub a generous helping of toothpaste on their feet and put their socks back on. Needless to say, there was no firewalk 46 | June 2018


Ilya and Eugene Mirman at Camp Tohkomeupog in the early ’80s. Born in Russia, the brothers fondly recall their NH campmates as being “less mean” than Massachusetts kids.

and Ilya wisely kept his toes Colgate-free. “These were harmless pranks where everyone was borderline humiliated equally,” he says, noting that back home in Lexington, Massachusetts, their classmates would inexplicably blame them (“the Commies”) for every Cold War crisis. “Kids in New Hampshire were definitely less mean,” agrees Eugene. “Camp was like a slightly gentler America for us.” Eugene is now a standup comedian best known for voicing Gene Belcher on the animated FOX sitcom “Bob’s Burgers.” Ilya is vice president of marketing at Desktop Metal, a hot startup specializing in 3D metal printing. Pranks aside, Ilya says he credits Tohkomeupog for helping him better acclimate to American culture.

“I went to my first dance and they played ‘Stairway to Heaven’ as the last song. There was an awesome capture-the-flag game spread across acres and acres. I loved sneaking around the woods and fields,” he says. “I definitely gained a new level of comfort just interacting with people. “Before I got to camp, the only music I really liked were these two Russian bards, Vladimir Vysotsky and Bulat Okudzhava,” Ilya adds. “My bunk exposed me to rock music — Peter Gabriel, The Doors, The Who, the Grateful Dead — and I still remember which kids would play which cassettes. Some of the counselors would play these songs on guitar around the campfire. This had a huge influence on me.” No word if any of the American kids were smitten by the Russian bards.

Upper Suncook Lake

Chris Sununu New Hampshire Governor Camp Fatima (1984-1989) Gilmanton Iron Works

Hardcore Hiker

New Hampshire governor Chris Sununu says he first learned to carry his weight at Camp Fatima. In 1998, future New Hampshire governor Chris Sununu buckled down for five months to hike from Maine to Georgia. But his first steps of conquering the Appalachian Trail actually happened more than a decade earlier, when he trekked up Mount Major and Blueberry Mountain with his friends at Camp Fatima. “My love for hiking really started there,” Sununu says. “Camp is all about exploring places you’ve never been able to explore. Those were the first times I could go out and not just hike for an hour or two, but for four, five or six hours and really spend a whole day out on the trail. “Being on a mountain is an exhilarating feeling, but it makes you realize rather quickly that you have to be responsible for yourself. You have certain obligations, like carrying your own food and gear. But you also have to think of the safety of those around you,” he says. Sununu laughs when he looks at pictures of himself in the Camp Fatima yearbooks, which at the time showed the boys posing with random sports equipment. “That’s a $6 regular boy’s haircut from downtown Salem right there,” he says. “And this is when I went through my phase of spiking my hair a little bit.” Maybe to impress one of the girls at the Catholic camp’s sister institution, Camp Bernadette, which would occasionally participate in dances and other joint activities. “It was always exciting to see them after you were with just guys for a couple

Gov. Chris Sununu in 1998 on his five-month Appalachian Trail hike and his Camp Fatima yearbook photo, which reveals his slightly spiked hair phase.

of weeks,” he notes. When the current governor was a camper, his father, John H. Sununu, was the state’s governor. Did that distinction ever earn him any special treatment — positive or negative — from the other kids? “It would come up from time to time, but I don’t think they treated me any differently. I didn’t act any differently, so they didn’t treat me any differently. I was just Chris from Cabin 10,” he says. But like most other kids, Sununu cherished the freedom of not answering to his

parents 24/7. It’s a gift he plans to give to his own children, two of which will be attending New Hampshire camps this summer. “You learn very quickly to rely on your counselors and rely on your peers. You go from being a bunch of strangers to being a team. Camp helps you develop great communication and leadership skills,” Sununu says. “You also learn to work out your differences and problems with other kids, and at the end of the day, you’re still friends. You make bonds that last a lifetime.” | June 2018


Lake Wentworth

Jon Lubin, Lawyer Shuli Lubin, Summer Camp Administrator Camp Birchmont (2005) Wolfeboro

Summer Romance Camp counselors Jon and Shuli Lubin never expected to find love on Lake Wentworth.

While he was a camper for four seasons (1995-1998), Jon Lubin “always wanted to see what was behind the curtain. “This certainly isn’t unique to Camp Birchmont, but when you’re a camper, you look up to your counselors as role models and they seem so cool to you. You wonder where they disappear to on their days off, what they do on their nights out,” he recalls. Lubin fulfilled his goal, becoming a counselor and soccer specialist for two years before he disappeared to college. The summer of 2005, sandwiched between graduation and his entry to law school, presented the opportunity for one last hurrah. “I was 22 years old. My goals for returning to camp that summer were reuniting with old friends, making some new ones, and drinking every pint on the menu at Wolfe’s Tavern to earn my own pewter mug on that famous ceiling there,” Lubin says. “Birchmont gives staff members a lot of time off, which I think is healthy to recharge and refresh from what can be tiring days herding kids around.” During those nights out, he quickly felt a connection with Shuli, the group leader for the 10-year-old girls’ cabins. “Sitting together on the camp bus turned into strolling down the streets of Portsmouth and Boston holding hands and eventually sharing our first kiss on the bus back to Wolfeboro,” reminisces Lubin. “It was a crazy situation,” says Shuli Lubin, who previously worked at Birchmont’s sister camp, Pierce Country Day Camp on Long Island. “By the end of the summer, I knew this was the man I was going to marry. I didn’t go to camp to meet my husband, but 48 | June 2018

Top: Jon and Shuli Lubin got engaged at Lake Wentworth. Above left: Shuli was the leader of the 10-year-old girls group. Right: The Lubins’ daughters Charlotte and Brooke

it’s fitting that we met there because camp has been such a huge part of my life.” The Lubins later got engaged under fireworks on the lake and married in 2009. Jon is a corporate lawyer for a private equity firm in Manhattan. Shuli is a camp office administrator for Pierce. Their daughters Brooke, 5, and Charlotte, 3, are destined in a few years to continue the family tradition in New Hampshire. Lubin jokes that he almost sabotaged the fairy tale ending with a “Braveheart-like speech” at Birchmont’s farewell campfire

in 2005. “I knew in my gut that this would be my last summer there for a while and possibly forever, so I wanted to go out with a bang. In a terrible Scottish accent, I urged the whole camp to rise up and resist the tyranny of the coach buses coming to take us all home the next day,” he remembers. “Fortunately, this didn’t give Shuli any second thoughts about our relationship.” For the record, Lubin never did earn that pewter mug from Wolfe’s Tavern, but with two future campers on the way, there’s plenty of time to finish.

Sink-or-Swim Lessons at Boy Scout Camp

an extreme challenge — and I crushed it. Looking back, there’s a direct line between my Northwood Lake swim and future life adventures, most notably a college Outward Bound wilderness course that involved five weeks of dogsledding in Minnesota and five weeks of canoeing the Rio Grande. Three decades later, I vicariously relived my Wah-Tut-Ca experience through my then-8-year-old Cub Scout, Ari, at Camp By Darren Garnick Carpenter in Manchester. The camp runs an “Akela” program that lets parents As for what my parents did sign up for, I e both knew we were supposed remember being mesmerized by “gimp” plastic (mothers too) share a week with their sons to be Trustworthy, Loyal, — on top of the week they already spend Helpful, Friendly, Courteous, lacing, which I tirelessly stitched in the box with their Cub packs. Kind, Obedient, Cheerful, Thrifty, Brave, and butterfly patterns with no end project in On my first night, Camp Carpenter Clean and Reverent. And we both knew mind. I also took a liking to riflery, earning the had me at hello. Boys who were strangers that this Boy Scout Law did not contain any coveted Silver Bullet award at the .22 shooting minutes earlier were running around the loopholes allowing knuckle sandwiches. But range. And I loved lighting campfires without woods playing flashlight tag. Unfortunately, our tempers got the best of us. Damon (not any matches, using my cute little flint-andspontaneous games like these rarely happen his real name) and I wanted to fight and steel set from the camp gift shop — just like in neighborhoods anymore. It now requires nobody was going to stop us. my ancestors presumably did. a forced laboratory setting like Surprisingly, the authorities Darren Garnick summer camp. did the opposite of stopping us. At “Pirate’s Cove,” a waterfront Camp Wah-Tut-Ca was going to fort on Long Pond, the kids are have its first officially sanctioned given eye patches and wage a water boxing match of 1980. Neither war with each other and counselour scoutmaster nor any other ors in paddle boats. Astoundingly, real adults were around, so some there’s also an official rock-throwof the counselors decided to ing station where kids throw turn our campsite into Madison buckets of stones at pots and pans Square Garden. “You guys wandangling from a clothesline. na fight? Well, you’ll do it safely,” I guess there used to be a they said, drawing a large square rock-throwing problem at Camp in the dirt with a stick. Carpenter, but they shrewdly chanI vaguely recall a few rules Boxing fans at Camp Wah-Tut-Ca. Writer Darren Garnick is neled the negative behavior into a such as no punches in the face, the second to last scout in the second row. quaint carnival attraction. but otherwise it was a free-forAfter he outgrew Cub Scout camp, Ari In water safety class, we jumped into all brawl with all the other kids watching. went to another overnight camp in MassaNorthwood Lake with our clothes on and After about 10 minutes of wild swinging chusetts that he vehemently hated. He felt nonsense, I was out of breath. He was panting learned how to quickly turn our jeans into like he didn’t fit in with the kids in his bunk, a life preserver. You kick off your sneakers, too. “It’s not much fun anymore, is it?” one of which can easily sour everything else. “This strip off your pants, tie each leg into a knot, the counselors rhetorically asked. Although wasn’t a wasted experience,” I told him. don’t forget to keep treading water, whip the that zen moment failed to permanently turn “When you go to college, you might not like pants over your head to trap air inside, and me into Gandhi, I never got in another fight your randomly assigned roommate — or he hold the waist closed. And presto! You have during my two summers at Boy Scout camp might not like you. In the workplace, you (a distinction that was sadly never recognized a denim flotation vest. I have never used this won’t always like everyone at your company. skill once in the 38 years since I’ve learned it. with a badge or certificate). The important thing is how you adapt.” However, if I ever go on a cruise, you won’t Located in Northwood, NH (about 30 Ari switched to a different camp the catch me wearing shorts or leather pants. miles northeast of Manchester), Wah-Tut-Ca following summer and thankfully loved it You just never know when you might have to felt like the deep wilderness to me. Reinforc(parents don’t want to pay for misery, even if spring into action. ing the image were the musty US Army surit is character-building misery). After three At age 12, I was not motivated by awards. plus tents mounted on wooden platforms and seasons, he now considers his bunkmates to The one exception was the Mile Swim the fact that we needed to sleep entombed in be some of his closest friends and wants to be badge, which seemed pretty badass despite mosquito netting propped up by sticks. a counselor next year. Knowing how to make the cutesy seahorse. Swimming across the It’s not what my parents signed up for, but a life jacket out of wet jeans isn’t the only life lake and back with my own rowboat escort Wah-Tut-Ca was also the place where my lesson you learn at summer camp. There are made me feel like I was crossing the English younger brother Kevin and I first learned plenty of other sink-or-swim moments that dirty jokes and experienced the joy of playing Channel. This was huge for my self-constay with you forever. NH fidence, marking the first time I took on profanity-laced “Mad Libs.”

Camp Wah-Tut-Ca taught me how to turn wet jeans into a life preserver.

W | June 2018


Rough It

Our vast green wilderness has beckoned s, ist al nt de en sc an Tr y ur nt ce th 19 e th om fr ne yo ever ch ar se in all — y da to of s er th ba st re fo dy to the tren all t no ut B it. ir sp of al w ne re d re pi ns -i re tu na a of who come are seeking peace and quiet. By Sarah Cahalan, Photos by Kendal J. Bush

50 | June 2018 | June 2018


On a cool summer morning, you pack your gear — sturdy shoes, water, navigation — and head north for a day in the mountains. You hit the trails, crisscrossing state borders and property lines, watching for moose and waving at fellow adventurers you pass along the way. At the top of a trying ascent, you round a corner and the Great North Woods bursts open, revealing a 180-degree vista of wildflowers and hills giving way to distant peaks. You pause, take a breath, perhaps snap a photo, before beginning your descent. Back at the trailhead, you pile into the car, dirt streaked across your forehead and your ankles, and, with a new set of mountain memories made, turn toward home. It’s a scene familiar to most New Hampshirites, but think back: What was your vehicle on the trails the last time you had a day like that? A mountain bike? Your own two hiking feet? What about an ATV? Based on last year’s OHRV (off-highway recreational vehicles) registration numbers, an estimated 35,000 people will explore New Hampshire this summer in all-terrain vehicles, and if you’re not among them, that fact is more likely to make you scoff than smile. But there’s more to this branch of recreation than you’re likely to realize as you pass it on a trail or encounter it at a campground. ATVs are fun, they’re inclusive, and they’re saving the North Country — whether you like it or not. When I pulled up to the Jericho ATV Festival in Berlin last August, I thought I would be incognito. I’d dressed in practical riding clothes — sneakers, Polaris jersey, rain jacket — and arrived without any telltale reporters’ notebooks or cameras. The first person I stopped to interview, an ATV dealership owner, saw through it — fast. “Look,” he said, giving me a quick onceover. “You’re, what, 25?” I nodded. “College-educated?” Another sheepish nod. “Athletic?” I sputtered a “not exactly” but conceded his point — I was a type. “I’m willing to bet you’d never touched an

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Corrine Rober is the exception to that rule. The friendly North Country transplant is tall, thin and blonde — willowy, you might say, if not for her obvious toughness — fond of organic foods and talk of her optimism about the future of her adopted home region. Asked to guess what businesses she’s owned in the area, you might come up with her first, a farm-to-table Southwestern restaurant in Glen. You’d be less likely to land on her second: the Pittsburg-based ATV rental company Bear Rock Adventures. “This is not just for that person that wants to ride 150 miles at 75 miles an hour,” she says of the business. “We don’t like that. That’s all fine and dandy, but there’s something else here. There’s something bigger than that.” Rober compares the development of New Hampshire’s ATV industry to its closest counterpart, the Hatfield-McCoy Trail System in West Virginia. One of the largest off-road trail systems on Earth, Hatfield-McCoy put West Virginia on the map nearly 20 years ago as the country’s premier place for ATVing. The trails, the crowds they draw, and their economic im-

To visit the Great North Woods without trying out our world-class ATV trails would be “like going to Paris and not going to the Eiffel Tower.”

Corrine Rober

pact are all huge, but they’re also, according to Rober, narrowly focused. “They spoke to one market,” she says — enthusiasts. Dedicated five years ago this month, New Hampshire’s trail system — the 1,000mile, nonprofit-maintained Ride the Wilds — initially followed West Virginia’s lead. Like West Virginia, our terrain (particularly in the state’s northernmost reaches) is suited for riding: rugged without being dangerous, beautiful without being overly pristine. Further, becoming a must-see destination for an entire branch of recreation could transform a region’s economy — and the former mill towns that the trails bisect could certainly use the boost. But what Rober and other early pioneers of New Hampshire’s ATV economy realized is that the trails are, literally and figuratively, two-way streets. If far-flung visitors are flocking to our trails, it must be because they are truly world-class. To visit the Great North Woods, or even to live there, without trying them? “It’d be like going to Paris and not going to the Eiffel Tower," says Rober. A successful trail system wouldn’t just draw in people who already love ATVs; it would attract those who’ve never been in an ATV but who happen to live within a stone’s throw of the region’s best place to try one out. And those first-timers can come from a broader swath of the population than you might guess. In quick succession over dinner at Pittsburg’s Rainbow Grille, Rober lists five groups of people she sees as perfect for ATVs. Hikers can use them to take the scenic route to their favorite trail. Fishermen can ride to ponds and streams they couldn’t reach on foot. The elderly and the disabled can strap in to see parts of the great outdoors that all-comers’ nature trails miss. Even the perennially experience-seeking millennial is a natural fit for ATVing — particularly when companies like Bear Rock can give you a taste of the sport without the commitment of buying your own gear. ATVs can appeal to just about everyone, Rober says, but to reach people, you have

photo by coleman moffett/cole scott photogaphy


ATV in your life before this story.” Of course, he was right. I’d never been in a soft-sided Jeep before last summer, let alone an ATV, and what’s worse, I’d refrained despite growing up around them. I was in 4-H for 10 years as a kid. My cousins were ATV apostles, riding them around rural Indiana and collecting them alongside the BMX bikes they raced on the weekends. It’s not that I couldn’t have tried ATVing; I chose not to. And I’m not alone. Flipping through a book of property listings at the Camp RZR festival in September, I struck up a conversation with a real estate agent. There were lots of listings in ski towns in his book, I noted, and lots in Berlin-Gorham and points farther north. Who’s buying these? He gave a knowing sigh. They’re similar in income — a vacation home requires a hefty wallet no matter its zip code — but different in, well, most everything else. The couple looking for a ski chalet in Conway is not the couple looking for a cabin near the riding trails in Colebrook. He didn’t have to explain for me to know what he meant. You’ll notice that neither the real estate agent nor the dealer offered their names, and that’s not a coincidence. Everyone in the ATV world knows that their sport of choice has a reputation problem — but no one wants to be caught talking about it.

No need to purchase your own ATV to enjoy the trails. Bear Rock Adventures in Pittsburg prides itself on renting only the safest and most high-end ATVs, replacing their fleet each year with brand-new models from Polaris. | June 2018


to get past the notion of off-roading as nasty, brutish, dangerous and loud. How to do that? First, treat it like a business: top-of-theline equipment, safety training, and respect for the homeowners who’ve allowed mini-highways to be built alongside their once-isolated homes. And second? Get people on the trails. My first time on an ATV, I expected disaster, and said so to anyone who’d listen. I’m a bad, anxious driver on the tamest of roads, and I’ve never been outdoorsy either. I was certain I would emerge from my ATV attempt scarred, emotionally at best, physically at worst. By mile five, I was converted. Bouncing along in the passenger seat of a Polaris RZR S4 900 — a four-seater that retails for just shy of $20,000 — I realized that this was fun. Thirty miles an hour felt like 70 as we whizzed through the woods, wind blowing the few wisps of our hair that poked out from our helmets, and the views were incredible. We came to a decommissioned logging bridge that my subpar hiking skills could never have brought me to, and as Indian Stream roared beneath us, I started to believe Rober’s insistence that this sport really was a great nature equalizer. An hour or so in, I agreed to trade seats with the Polaris rep I’d begged to have as my driver. He posited that it’d be good for my research to get some piloting experience and assured me that the next stretch of trail was easy. What he didn’t tell me was that the stretch after that would take us directly up a mountain — and that he had no plans on switching back before we got there. I laughed out loud when we got to the base, mostly to mask my terror. You expect me to drive what up what? But with a shift of gears, a steady pace, and some careful maneuvering, I got us to the top. Looking back down the mountain from the summit, I had the same feeling I do at the apex of a big hike: I did that. It wasn’t easy. It took skill. But that was me. At the end of my trip, I posted a picture of my muddied ATV on Instagram with the caption, “I drove this up a mountain today.” My friends were shocked — they couldn’t believe that indoorsy, uncoorThat’s writer Sarah Cahalan behind the wheel of an ATV. Part of the allure, she writes, is taking in the gorgeous views.

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dinated Sarah had pulled something that difficult off. Well, I had, I told them. And it was the most fun I’d had all summer. The ATV industry does have problems that extend beyond reputation, enough that the dealer from the Jericho festival told me twice in our 10-minute conversation that the industry — one he’s been in for a decades as a consumer and a professional — is dying. But, up close, the issues aren’t as bad as an initial glance makes them seem. The first fear on any ATV newbie’s mind is that ATVS are dangerous — and, make no mistake, they can be. Like in any industry with risk involved, though, ATVs come loaded with a host of regulations and laws to maximize safety. In New Hampshire, helmets and goggles are required for any rider under 18 and strongly encouraged for adults. Rental companies and dealerships alike will pepper riders with safety tips — keep your speed reasonable, use switchbacks on steep inclines — that, when followed, drastically reduce your chance of injury. The New Hampshire Fish and Game Department logged just 46 accidents last year among all off-highway recreational vehicles (a category including both ATVs and snowmobiles), and the majority were caused by factors entirely within the driver’s control. Speed, inattention, recklessness and alcohol appeared in accident reports a combined 45 times last year, mirroring what Bear Rock employees told me before my first ride: Drive irresponsibly, and you’ll probably get hurt. Drive carefully, and you should be fine. Even the grim tales of ATV fatalities you hear on the news tend not to reflect the reality. According to the US Consumer Product Safety Commission, New Hampshire reported only 73 ATV-related deaths from 1982 to 2016. Compare that to automobile-accident fatalities: per the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety, New Hampshire reported 136 in 2016 alone. A trickier issue is an ATV’s impact on the environment. It’s hard to argue that riding what’s basically a car through the woods is a green activity — but who’s to say an afternoon of ATVing is worse than tromping on wildflowers on a trail run or leaving trash behind after a camping trip? On a micro level, riders in New Hampshire can be roundly punished for veering off designated trails — including with fines up to $10,000 for encroaching on wetlands — and at the macro end, nearly all the

April’s Maple, a sugarhouse just over the border in Canaan, Vermont, is popular with Bear Rock clients. It draws in visitors — many via ATV — from all over the world. Pictured on the bottom left is owner April Lemay.

major ATV manufacturers have detailed environmental policies and strategic plans for lessening the impact of their products and themselves as corporations. Minnesota-based Polaris has even rolled out a fleet of electric vehicles, including one from their trail-ready Ranger utility vehicle line. ATVs lack the tree-hugger cred of New Hampshire’s other outdoor recreation, but Steve Livingston, owner of Livingston’s Arctic Cat in Hillsborough, may have put it best when I ducked into his tent during a rainstorm at the Jericho festival. “Those same people that say it’s not green, that it’s not good for the Earth ... I’m positive they did not ride here on a horse.” When the state took control in 2005 of the land that would become Jericho Mountain

State Park, the road from downtown Berlin into the park was lined by almost nothing. Chris Gamache, the chief of the Trails Bureau of the New Hampshire Division of Parks and Recreation, recalls a steel factory, a beer distributor and a handful of houses, but not much else. Today, that same stretch of NH-110 boasts three restaurants, three ATV and snowmobile dealerships, and two campgrounds — and on one Friday morning last September, standstill traffic snaked past all of them as thousands of people made their way to Jericho for Camp RZR, one of the largest ATV festivals in the United States. The nearest available hotel room was an hour away in Conway. The Grammy-winning country trio The Band Perry was coming to town for a Saturday-night festival | June 2018


Chris Gamache

“The motorized users are putting money in to use and maintain the trails. Those hiking trails are seeing thousands of boots and not getting fixed.”

performance, and over the course of three days, 12,000 visitors would pour into the 10,000-person town of Berlin. Say what you want about ATVs, but ask yourself: Even when the pre-Les Otten Balsams was in its heyday and every mill in the state was still booming, what else could draw that many people that far north? Gamache admits that, during an event like Camp RZR or the Jericho ATV Festival, his office gets complaints from locals, wishing they could lower the noise or quell the chaos from a five-digit visitor count. But present those complaints to the selectmen or a business owner, and you’ll hear the same few refrains: Not possible. You’re crazy. This pays the taxes. Every ATVer that comes to Coös County will need lodging, meals and services that range from gas stations to doctors’ offices to places to buy extra riding goggles or off-rider bumper stickers. Those service-industry businesses will employ dozens of locals, from lifeguards to bartenders, and those lifeguards and bartenders will need schoolteachers and bank tellers and cops. The stream of ATVers that will flock into the North Country this summer will keep entire towns afloat, and what’s more, the industry will pay for its own maintenance — something that can’t be said of birdwatching or snowshoeing. To ride an off-highway recreational vehicle in New Hampshire outside of your own property, you have to register it. Registration fees run from $50 to $100 depending on vehicle type and residency status (non-Granite Staters pay steeper fees), and that money goes directly to the Trails Bureau, which, in turn, keeps the state’s 1,000-plus miles of trails clean and rider-ready. “The motorized users are putting money in to use and maintain the trails,” Gamache says. “Those hiking trails are seeing thousands of boots and not getting fixed.” Above: Brenda and John Bostwick of Amherst and their Dalmatians, Winnie and Piper. They’re photographed here at the Jericho Deli, which opened in 2014 on Route 110 outside Berlin. Below: September’s Camp RZR is one of the largest ATV festivals in the country.

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“When you drive up here, you start slowing down,” Rober says of the Great North Woods. “There’s no traffic lights, there aren’t many cars. There’s just ... calm.” The northern half of the state is a calm place, and a beautiful one, even if your mode of choice for exploring it is a noisy, muddy four-wheeler. Last year’s Jericho festival offered helicopter rides for a small fee, and I took one, expecting to be disturbed by the sight of pillbox vehicles cutting through the trees. From the air, though, it all looked peaceful — kids running around a clearing, people shopping for new gear, ATVs snaking through the woods out one window and a family of deer pausing by a stream out the other. Like the state itself, ATVing in New Hampshire can be rough, adventurous and wild. But it can also bring you face-to-face with a moose, or transport you to a spot, deep in the woods or on the edge of a mountain, that will fill you with gratitude for a world with views that look like these. If you’ve never been on an ATV, you probably think they’re not for you. But hop on one this summer. I think you’ll find they are. NH Camp RZR is the social event of the season for many New England ATVers, like this group who rents a house and orders matching T-shirts for their annual trip. Racing in the mud pit (left) is a popular activity at both Camp RZR and the Jericho ATV Festival. | June 2018


Liquid Legacy

Our much-loved city of Portsmouth was shaped by the sea, and water still provides the best route to discover its charms By Crystal Ward Kent, Photo by Phillip Cohen 58 | June 2018 | June 2018


The Tugboats Icons of the Working Waterfront

Look beyond the trendy riverside bistros and you will see that Portsmouth still maintains a working waterfront. The commercial side of the river is perhaps best represented by the bright red Moran tugboats, whose Ceres Street dock is a popular stop for tourists. However, the hard-working boats contribute far more than a fun photo op, they play a critical role in Portsmouth’s success as a port. The Piscataqua River has the second-fastest current in the nation, and her narrow channel, swirling currents and strong tides make this point of entry extremely challenging. Portsmouth’s skilled river pilots expertly guide as many as 270 ships up and down the river per year. The ships carry road salt, heating oil, propane, jet fuel, biodiesel, kerosene, low-sulfur diesel, gypsum rock, asphalt, and occasionally coal, high-fiber optic cable and GE Westinghouse power plant components. According to Dick Holt, vice president and general manager of Moran Towing/Portsmouth, the horizontal clearance beneath the Piscataqua’s two lift bridges, the Memorial Bridge and the Sarah Long, is only 260 feet wide. “It often seems like the big ships won’t fit, but we know that they will,” he says. “I think the captains are always a bit relieved to have us there to guide them.” The tugs also service the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, helping to dock submarines. Even though the subs are on the surface during this process, the tug’s hull and the submarine’s hull still touch each other underwater so the tugs are fitted with rubber submarine fenders to keep metal from touching metal. The tugs range in age from the 1949 Fort Macon, which has been refurbished and repowered, to the Handy 4, which launched in 2016 and is currently undergoing upgrades and painting. Holt would like to see more 60 | June 2018

commerce on the river, nothing that there has been a significant decline over the last decade. “Everyone loves the tugs,” he says, “but these boats are meant to work. We hope to see more opportunity for Portsmouth as a port in the years to come.”

The Gundalow Cruising into the Past

In Colonial times, dozens of gundalows would have been moving up and down the Piscataqua River on a daily basis, their decks loaded with all manner of cargo, and their big sails set to catch the breeze. A gundalow is a flat-bottomed barge that can be poled or rowed using sweeps (extra long oars), or go under sail. These simple but sturdy boats helped settle the Piscataqua Region as they allowed people to move farther upriver yet stay connected to other towns. Before there were roads, people used the river to go from place to place and to carry needed goods. A boat such as the gundalow ­— which could easily navigate not just the main rivers, but the myriad shallow creeks that fed into them ­— was a game-changer and fueled the growth of the region. “Gundalows were traveling along the Piscataqua River starting in the 1650s,” says Molly Bolster, executive director of the Gundalow Company, a nonprofit organization. “They were used commercially well into the late 1800s. Traveling on one today is experiencing a piece of living history. You can see how these boats connect our past, present and future.” The Gundalow Company offers a variety of regular tours on a recently built Coast Guard-certified gundalow, the Piscataqua, which typically sets sail from Portsmouth and heads down river to New Castle, New Hampshire, and Kittery, Maine. (Ask about special sails up the Cocheco River and into Great Bay.) There is a trip for every taste, from sunset sails with breathtaking views to acoustic concerts on the water, or immersive experiences that explore a single topic, such as navigation. Guests are invited to bring a picnic to enjoy and passengers are always welcome to interact with the boat in a hands-on way by helping to set the sail and even steer. “We want people to soak up the experience of being on the river on a gundalow,” says Bolster. “That’s why our talks are not lectures, but more like conversations about

“From Exeter, Newmarket, Durham and Dover, South Berwick and Portsmouth, they traveled all over To the towns all around the Piscataqua Basin They carried the goods to build a new nation So here’s to the gundalow, here’s to the men, And though we may never see their likes again, Their story and glory and pride will live on Whenever we join in the gundalow song.” “The Gundalow Song” by the Shaw Brothers

photo by phillip cohen


ortsmouth and the communities of the Greater Seacoast Region were shaped by water, not just physically, but culturally, economically and historically. The bounty of the vast Atlantic immediately led early settlers to success in fishing and shipbuilding, while a network of rivers, including the swift-flowing Piscataqua, quickly opened the door to trade and industry. Trade led to settlement as people followed the waterways inland and embarked on further enterprises. Yet all paths still led to the sea, and to some extent, that has not changed. Even today, more trade goods traverse up and down our rivers then we can imagine, and many ships, from wooden vessels to nuclear submarines, still test their worthiness with a voyage down the Piscataqua. Restaurants, shops, historic sites and other attractions lure more people to the waterfront than ever before and, in summer “tourist traffic” is not confined to the roads as everything from kayaks to sailboats and yachts parades down the river. Whether you are a local, a repeat visitor or a newcomer, consider seeing Portsmouth and the Seacoast Region through a different lens ­— through her connection to the mighty river that surges along her eastern border and her ties to the waters around her.

“We want people to take in the sights and sounds of their outing on the water and feel like they participated in a bit of a journey through time.” — Molly Bolster of the Gundalow Company | June 2018


-Andrew Cole, Portsmouth Harbor Cruises

the boats and their unique impact on the region. Even our Discovery Sails, where we go more indepth about topics like the arts of the sailor or marine life are very interactive. We want people to take in the sights and sounds of their outing on the water and feel like they participated in a bit of a journey through time.” Check out for a complete description of all tours and special offerings. Families should make note of the Kids Sail Free tours, which offer one free child’s pass for each adult ticket, and the various Gundalow Summer Camps for kids that feature a wealth of amazing experiences. Call (603) 433-9505 for more information.

Portsmouth Harbor Cruises Up Close and Personal

The Heritage, Portsmouth Harbor Cruises’ classic 1963 60ʹ Deltaville Deadrise, has been a familiar site along the Portsmouth waterfront since 1982. The Heritage seats just 49 passengers, giving the cruises an intimate feel, and the crew has a friendly, informal style that welcomes interaction. (Guests are even invited to converse with the captain.) While the Heritage does provide a nice excursion to the Isles of Shoals, its specialties are various trips through local waters. “With our smaller boat, we can go a lot of places that bigger boats can’t,” says Andrew Cole, owner and captain. “We can explore in and around New Castle, and go up into the creeks where you get great views of places like the Wentworth-Coolidge Mansion. In the fall, we do foliage cruises up the Cocheco River all the way to downtown Dover, and into Great Bay. Even people who have lived here all their lives see things they haven’t seen before because they haven’t come by water. Seeing this region from a waterway is a completely different experience, and one that appeals to locals as well as tourists.” Portsmouth Harbor Cruises makes three The Isles of Shoals Steamship Company offers cruises to the islands that lie seven miles offshore.

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very popular harbor cruises each day, offering wonderful close-up photo ops of everything from lighthouses and islands to the waterfront. The narration covers about 400 years of history from Colonial times to the nuclear submarines at the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, all in about an hour. They also offer a cocktail cruise, a sunset cruise and a harbor lights cruise, which is fast becoming a favorite. “The harbor lights cruise showcases the waterfront in an entirely different light,” says Cole. “You see the city lights, the light-

Isles of Shoals Cruises

Where Legends Come to Life

Portsmouth has long had a connection to the storied Isles of Shoals, which lie 7 miles offshore. In Colonial times, those who fished from the Shoals brought their catch into Portsmouth, then shopped in the city for supplies. Today, fishermen still ply these waters, but it’s not just harvesters who have fallen under the Shoals’ spell. Beyond their stark, natural beauty, this group of nine rocky

photo courtesy of the isles of shoals steamship company

“Even people who have lived here all their lives see things they haven’t seen before because they haven’t come by water.”

houses and the stars.” In late summer, you might even see the eerie glow of phosphorescence in the water that Cole describes as “magical.” He says it’s hard to beat on a hot night as “temperatures on the water will be nice and cool.” Portsmouth Harbor Cruises sells snacks and sandwiches on board and offers a full bar. For more information about all their cruising options, including the special wine cruise, visit or call (603) 776-0915.

photo courtesy of portsmouth harbor cruises

islands have a fascinating past filled with tales of pirate treasure, murder, and a historic hotel that attracted the notables of its day. Their gorgeous light and sweeping vistas inspired poet Celia Thaxter, who in turn created a famous artists’ colony. Thaxter’s splendid flower garden lives on today, and many make the pilgrimage to Appledore Island just to see her creation. The Shoals are also home to the Shoals Marine Lab, a research collaborative between the University of New Hampshire and Cornell University, and Star Island’s Oceanic Hotel still welcomes guests. The Isles of Shoals Steamship Company specializes in trips to the Shoals, with two crafts making daily trips, the flagship M/V Thomas Laighton, a three-decked vessel carrying 275 passengers, and the 85-person M/V Challenger. There are several cruise options that allow you to disembark on Star Island for a guided walking tour or to explore on your own for several hours. “Going out to the Shoals is so peaceful,” says Tanya Gahara, sales manager with the

coastal sites seen enroute to the Shoals. While the island journeys are favorites, you can experience the local waters with cruises of a different flavor, thanks to the company’s sunset cruise with acoustic music and a popular reggae cruise. “People love this cruise!” says Gold. “We get people of all ages. Reggae is fun music, and it’s perfect to experience it on the water.” To explore the full menu of cruises, visit or call (603) 431-5500. A tour aboard Portsmouth Harbor Cruises’ vessel the Heritage

Isles of Shoals Steamship Company. “If you have never spent time out there, I highly recommend it.” She recommends you bring your camera and a picnic to fully experience “a place that is like nowhere else. It’s rugged and beautiful, and there is so much history.” The Isles of Shoals Steamship Company gets high marks from guests for its narration, explaining the unique features of the islands, and all Shoals trips include interesting facts and anecdotes about Portsmouth and the

Sea Kayaking

A Paddler’s Perspective

The more adventurous may wish to grab a paddle and get a truly close-up look at Portsmouth Harbor and adjacent waterways by exploring via sea kayak or stand-up paddleboard. Paddleboarding may seem like a fairly recent trend in boating, but Portsmouth Kayak Adventures has been offering guided kayak and stand-up paddleboard tours for more than a decade. All tours are led by a professional guide who | June 2018


The tall ships will return to Portsmouth this year. Pictured here is the schooner Roseway, though not technically a tall ship, she is still historically important.

also provides basic instruction. Various tours are available and each one is ranked according to recommended skill level. Some popular beginner tours take paddlers in and around New Castle and Little Harbor, while journeys up into Portsmouth Harbor with its strong currents and eddies are best for those with advanced skills. Portsmouth Kayak Adventures also offers a wide range of specialty tours including sunset and moonlight tours, foliage excursions, a fireworks tour and more. Kayaks and stand-up paddleboards are also available for rent. Visit to learn more or call (603) 559-1000. 64 | June 2018

The Tall Ships

Timeless Beauty Under Sail

Tall ships will once again enter Portsmouth Harbor as Sail Portsmouth returns July 25-29. This year, the schooner Roseway and the Oliver Hazard Perry, a three-masted square-rigger, will headline Portsmouth’s Parade of Sail. The schooner Roseway, wellknown for her red sails, is technically not a tall ship, but is historically important. The 110-foot wooden schooner is like those used for fishing up and down the coasts of Canada and the United States in the 18th and 19th centuries. The Oliver Hazard Perry is similar

to the ships that braved the North Atlantic to bring settlers from Europe to the Colonies. It’s the first ocean-going, fully-rigged ship built in the US in more than 100 years. The ship is named for the Rhode Island naval hero of the War of 1812. While the vessel looks historic, it is outfitted with modern, state-of-the-art features for performance and safety. Both schooners and square-riggers would have been common sights around Portsmouth’s waterfront back in the day. The Oliver Hazard Perry will be docked at the Portsmouth Fish Pier on Peirece Island and open for tours during Sail Portsmouth weekend, while the schooner Roseway will dock in New Castle at the University of New Hampshire pier and will offer two-hour cruises throughout the Sail Portsmouth event. The Parade of Sail will take place on July 25, with the time yet to be determined, as it will be based on the tides. Check closer to the date for the parade start time, and for details about tours and cruises.

roseway photo courtesy of piscataqua maritime commission; courtesy photos

Portsmouth Kayak Adventures offers a wide range of tours including moonlight tours.

The Albacore

“Forerunner of the Future”

The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard has a legendary history when it comes to building submarines, and one of its crowning achievements is the USS Albacore, a pioneering research vessel now berthed at Albacore Park on Market Street in Portsmouth. After World War II, renowned submariner Admiral Charles “Swede” Momsen knew that America’s submarine force needed to rethink its design if it wanted to maintain superiority under the seas. He pushed for a design that would provide greater speed, endurance and maneuverability. After years of work, the USS Albacore debuted in 1953 with her unique teardrop-shaped hull, a design that would influence the shape of future nuclear subs. Designed, built and maintained by the skilled engineers and craftsmen of the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, the Albacore was also the first sub engineered to operate completely underwater; previous subs were designed to be primarily surface-going vessels that could submerge if

necessary. To Momsen’s great satisfaction, the Albacore proved to be everything he envisioned — the sub could easily achieve speeds of 27 knots in short bursts, she could do tight turns and dive like a jet plane, and she easily outmaneuvered and outran all who came after her. The Albacore broke many records during her nearly 20 years as a testing platform. She was decommissioned in 1972 and languished in a Philadelphia boatyard till a group of Seacoast citizens brought her back to Portsmouth in 1985 for lasting recognition at Albacore Park. Today, she is a National Historic Landmark, National Mechanical Engineering Landmark and in the Submarine Hall of Fame. Guests can tour the sub and see where the 55 submariners worked and lived. Audio panels inside and outside the sub relay key facts and anecdotes by crew members. The visitors center includes a museum of Albacore and submarine artifacts. For more information, visit Mariners know the riddle of the sea — that nothing changes more unexpectedly than its currents and waves, but also nothing is more constant than its influence upon the lives of those who love it. Like the sea, Portsmouth is a place of constant change, so the best way to navigate into the heart and soul of our city by the sea might just be to go aboard one of these vessels that call it home. NH

Another Route to Discovery

While water provides easy access to the soul of Portsmouth, so does art. Printmaker and artist Sue Anne Bottomley grew up here, left, and then returned to live in New London, but her walks around our seacoast’s only city inspired her to create a book of her sketches and impressions. “A Small City by the Sea” ($21.95, self-published) is a minimalist treatment that highlights the charm of the area, but allows the mind’s eye of the reader to fill in the details of Portsmouth landmarks. It would serve as an imaginative scavenger hunt for visitors checking out the sights, and her whimsical descriptions of each location are rich with guidance and lore.

photo by phillip cohen

The USS Albacore, which launched in 1953, was a pioneering vessel in its day. Today you can tour the submarine at Albacore Park on Market Street in Portsmouth. | June 2018



Taking the Next Step: New Hampshire Institutions Innovating Higher Education

Ask the


Choosing the right college or university can make all the difference in a person’s future. Luckily, New Hampshire residents have many options from which to choose. A highly respected community college system and renowned universities give Granite Staters a great opportunity to find the right fit. The best part: many of those schools are innovating higher education. We spoke to three experts who outlined how each of their institutions are offering new, revolutionary options to incoming students: UNH Manchester Dean and Chief Workforce Officer at the Advanced Regenerative Manufacturing Institute Mike Decelle; Executive Vice President of Southern New Hampshire University’s College of Engineering, Technology and Aeronautics Jim Smith (who is heading up the school’s Aviation Operations and Management program); and representatives from the Community College System of New Hampshire.

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The Community College System of New Hampshire is offering an opportunity for high school students to earn college credit while saving money in its innovative Running Start program. What is Running Start? “Running Start is a program that enables high school juniors and seniors to take courses for both high school and college credit. The courses are taken during the normal high school day, as part of the students’ regular schedule, but they use a college syllabus and students learn material at a college level. Students earn college credit that is reflected on a transcript from the New Hampshire community college that has partnered with their high school to offer the courses. Running Start courses are available in almost every high school in New Hampshire. “Running Start is one type of ‘dual and concurrent enrollment’ program. Two others are eStart and Early College, where high school students can take a 100 percent online course or actually go to a college to take a course or courses. New Hampshire’s community colleges offer all three types.” Who can take the courses? “Students in 11th and 12th grade from New Hampshire high schools and Career and Technical Education Centers. Students in 9th and 10th grade may be eligible with permission from the college.” What courses are available? “Course availability varies at each high school and covers a very wide range of program areas. Some courses students have taken include college composition, intro to business, French and Spanish, statistics, calculus, intro to biotechnology, criminology, accounting & financial reporting, computer technologies, intro to welding, anatomy & physiology, automotive technology, medical terminology, principles of marketing, desktop publishing, intro to video production, early childhood growth & development, intro to veterinary technology and many more. Courses available at particular high schools are dependent upon scheduling and the availability of teachers who are eligible to teach a particular course.” How does this help students? “Students earn college credit before they even graduate from high school. These credits have been transferred to over 200 colleges and universities here in New Hampshire and across the country. This saves students time and money once they enter college. Many students who have transferred credits start college with a semester or more

already completed! The courses also help students become accustomed to college-level curriculum and expectations.” What’s the cost? “Courses cost $150 for Running Start and eStart and half the cost of full tuition for Early College courses. That’s a savings of hundreds of dollars per course compared to tuition for courses taken at a college. Scholarships are also available.” What’s the Governor’s Dual and Concurrent STEM Scholarship? “New in 2018, eligible students who take STEM-related courses (science, technology, engineering and math) can have two courses per year paid for through the Governor’s Dual and Concurrent Enrollment scholarship. The student’s high school will need to have a written agreement with CCSNH along with a dual and concurrent enrollment school board policy in place in order to award the scholarships.”

Anything Else? “Thousands of credits earned through Running Start, eStart and Early College have been used by students to get ahead upon entering college. However, the decision of whether to accept the credits is up to the receiving college.” How Do I Learn More? “To learn more about the CCSNH dual and concurrent enrollment programs, go to academics/running-start and click on ‘Contact your Local Running Start Coordinator.’”

YOUR for College

Visit w w w.C CS NH .e du | June 2018



Southern New Hampshire University’s Aviation Operations and Management program, led by Jim Smith, is providing would-be pilots a chance to pursue their dreams by learning skills that are soon to be in high demand.

What is the job market like, and what types of jobs can students expect to be prepared for upon graduation from the Aviation Operations and Management (AOM) program? Smith: “The latest study by Boeing states that there will be a shortage of nearly 120,000 pilots in North America within 10 years, and a shortage of several hundred thousand worldwide. With the drawdown of pilots in the military and the increased cost of flight training and tuition, we as a nation are not producing enough pilots today to meet the demand. We anticipate full employment for our graduates.” Are there any prerequisites to entering the AOM program? Smith: “There are no flying requirements, though any student who has some flying experience will have a better sense of how well they can adapt to the flying environment. The private pilot’s license is part of our program, but we will accept and give college credit to a student who has already been awarded a private license prior to entering AOM. The main prerequisite is to complete an FAA Class 1 flight physical because this will be a requirement to fly with any major airline.” Where will students build their flying hours, in what type of aircraft, and what can they expect to achieve in the short term? Smith: “After the first year of intensive flight instruction, students will complete the requirements for Certified Flight Instructor (CFI), with the early training in the Cessna 172. Students will then spend the following summer as CFIs in an internship where they will continue to build flight hours. Over the course of the remainder of the academic program, they will build flight hours either as a CFI or flying with a Part 135 carrier.” What’s unique about the tuition model of SNHU’s AOM program? Smith: “The goal of AOM is to dramatically reduce the cost to becoming an airline pilot

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and this requires a fundamental reshaping of the current model. Our program will drive down costs in four fundamental ways. First, the flight training is compressed into the front end of the college experience with the intent of reducing repeat sorties through an intensive flight experience. In doing so, the unique syllabus provided by our partner, Air Direct Aviation Flight Academy, we reduce the expected training flight hours closer to the FAA standard. Second, tuition covers both the cost of academic instruction and flight instruction; a student will not pay for instruction twice. Third, after the first intensive year of flight, students will become paid flight instructors building their

flight time while they continue the academic program. The AOM model assumes a student does not need to wait to graduation to build toward the hours required for an Air Transport Pilot’s license required for an Air Transport Pilot’s license. They will amass flight time during their college experience with the goal of gaining a restricted ATP by graduation. Finally, owing to the unique nature of Southern New Hampshire University’s online program, the last two years of the student’s college experience can either be in residence or online (or a combination). This option allows for both cost savings and the flexibility to take on a full-time job flying while completing the college degree.”

TAKE FLIGHT At SNHU, the sky isn’t the limit—it’s the destination. Thanks to SNHU’s new Aviation Operations and Management program, a whole new generation of pilots is preparing to take flight. You’ll find no shortage of resources on SNHU’s campus, including simulators, wind tunnels, and even our very own plane. You’ll also find experienced faculty, state-of-the-art facilities, and opportunities to start earning flight experience right away. Aeronautical Engineering | Air Traffic Management | Aviation Management | Aviation Operations and Management Come see for yourself! Visit campus today and see how you can fly higher at SNHU.

opportunities in the industry.” | | 603-645-9611



Mike Decelle, dean of UNH Manchester and chief workforce officer at Advanced Regenerative Manufacturing Institute (ARMI), is helping to lead a program that will prepare students for opportunities in the growing, changing field of biological sciences and biotechnology — where there is projected to be a real need for trained professionals.

Re-training New Curriculum, Up-training Internships, Co-ops EWD Plan, National Training Center

Educational Institutions

Certificate Programs

Workforce Partners

large-scale manufacturing of engineered tissues and related technologies will not only benefit critical US public health issues but also drive the need for new, highly skilled jobs. “Tissue biofabrication is a young, nascent field, but one that is growing rapidly. The challenge is to make sure that a significant fraction of the industry grows here in the state of New Hampshire. New Hampshire already has a growing market in the biosciences area. Today, the bulk of that market is represented by medical device companies and, to some extent, biopharmaceuticals. Tissue biofabrication will be yet another growth engine in the larger biosciences field.”

What is UNH Manchester’s role in the ARMI initiative? Decelle: “The Advanced Regenerative Manufacturing Institute taps UNH’s leadership role in creating powerful partnerships that leverage the university’s research and workforce expertise to drive economic development in the state and the nation. UNH leads the national education and workforce development efforts of ARMI that will identify and develop the curriculum, certificate and degree programs, and workforce training programs needed to enable and sustain the growth of this emerging industry. This work requires the support of three stakeholder groups: industry, academia and state, local and national workforce partners. The graphic on the upper right captures some of the scope and dimensions of the ARMI education workforce development plan. What new changes have taken place at UNH Manchester as part of this initiative? Decelle: “With the ARMI partnership and continued growth of our biological sciences and biotechnology programs, UNH Manchester

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has begun plans to renovate the sixth floor of our building to house laboratories to support a number of areas: 1) Expanded instructional labs for both undergraduate and graduate degree programs 2) Tissue fabrication faculty research 3) ARMI workforce training facilities 4) Incubator space for ARMI-affiliated startup companies. What kind of a demand exists in New Hampshire for skilled workers in the bioengineering/sciences field, and how will UNH Manchester students benefit from the ARMI public-private partnership? Decelle: “Biofabrication is an innovative manufacturing industry segment at the intersection of biology-related research, computer science, materials science and engineering. The Department of Defense tells us that the acceleration of regenerative tissue research is especially important to restoring form, function and appearance to wounded soldiers and reducing the waiting time for organ transplant patients. Successful

What are some of the certificate programs related to the ARMI, and what opportunities exist for someone who earns one? Decelle: “We have invested in the development of a range of biotechnology and biofabrication courses and training modules that will form the basis for full certificate programs. These courses and training modules are being piloted at partner locations around the country, including here at UNH.” How does this address workforce development challenges facing the state? Decelle: “According to the 2016 New Hampshire Employment Security report, by 2024, New Hampshire will need 25 percent more biomedical engineers, 16 percent more biochemists and 13 percent more biological technicians. ARMI is bringing an emerging industry into our state — an industry that will not only need researchers but also clinicians, manufacturers, supply chain specialists, machine engineers and more. This industry is positioned to transform lives, and to do so will require the creation of new highly skilled jobs. What we hope to achieve at UNH is to spur interest in the field and build the academic pipelines to fill these jobs. We anticipate the partnership with ARMI will be a force for net migration into the state, and a place where those students will stay because of the opportunities in the industry.”

The flagship that’s quietly changing the world.











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603 Living

“Everything that slows us down and forces patience, everything that sets us back into the slow circles of nature, is a help. Gardening is an instrument of grace.” – Mary Sarton

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Photo by Greg West

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In Bloom

Gardens of the Seacoast BY ERICA THOITS While you’re probably not going to turn your yard into a formal rose garden like the one pictured here, strolling through beautiful landscapes can offer inspiration for our own soil-based projects. These roses are a part of Fuller Gardens in North Hampton, and were commissioned in the late 1920s by then-Massachusetts governor Alvan T. Fuller as decoration for his estate. Today, the grounds are open to the public seven days a week, and you can expect to see the roses in bloom from June through October. On July 11, don’t miss the annual Garden Party, complete with jazz and art amongst the roses. It’s held from 5-8 p.m., and is free for members and $25 for nonmembers. Visit for more information. | June 2018




photo by greg west

North Hampton’s Fuller Gardens is the perfect place for a quiet stroll on a warm summer’s day.

74 | June 2018





Bath & Kitchen Product Specialists: courtesy photo

Thoughtful Suggestions Knowledgeable Product Assistance Quality Products | Refreshing Ideas

Once a rundown industrial area of Portsmouth, Prescott Park, located on the waterfront, is free and open to the public. The main entrance is located on Marcy Street, and the walkway through the formal garden is filled with color.

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100 West Road, Portsmouth, NH 03801 ph: 603.436.1401 | fax: 603.431.3958 (a division of Standard of New England, LLC)

Independent, Local Small Business: Independent, Local Small NH Business: 100 West Road, Portsmouth, 03801 100 West Road, Portsmouth, NH 03801 ph: 603-436-1401 ⦁ fax: 603-431-3958 ph: 603-436-1401 ⦁ fax: (a division of Standard of New603-431-3958 England, LLC) (a division of Standard of New England, LLC)

It’s Your Day to Shine.

photo courtesy of bedrock gardens

Find new stories, extra photos, events, restaurant recommendations, local breweries, a guide to summer fun and more.


Bedrock Gardens in Lee is a 20-acre private garden open to the public during select events. On June 2, you can attend Plant Something NH, where you can learn about planting your own native and bee-friendly plants.

The Spring/Summer issue of New Hampshire Magazine’s BRIDE is on the newsstands. Inside you’ll find gorgeous photography, inspiration, New Hampshire venues, the latest gown styles and much more.

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All for the New Hampshire Bride

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You may be familiar with the historic homes at the Strawbery Banke Museum in Portsmouth, but did you know the gardens are historic as well? Many of the sites, including an herb garden, are a great way to learn about native plants and the history of gardening over 400 years. Pictured here is the Goodwin Garden, which was recreated when the Goodwin Mansion was moved from its original site on Islington Street to Hancock Street in 1963. The lush “carpet garden” is based on an 1862 landscape plan of the original site and Sarah Parker Goodwin’s detailed 1870 diary.

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You can see some truly impressive pieces of history at the Moffat-Ladd House & Garden museum in Portsmouth, including an English damask rose planted in 1768 by Sarah Catherine Mason Moffatt and the horse chestnut tree planted in 1776 by Gen. William Whipple.

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Supplement Myths

The key to keeping your mind sharp can’t be found in a pill bottle BY LYNNE SNIERSON


opeye the Sailor Man, the beloved animated cartoon character who sang his signature little ditty about being “strong to the finish ’cause I eats me spinach,” evidently was on to something after all. Scientists at Rush University and Tufts University’s Human Nutrition Research Center recently discovered that consuming a single serving of nutrient-rich, green leafy vegetables daily could help slow cognitive decline associated with aging. The groundbreaking study, which was

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published in December 2017 in the highly respected and peer-reviewed journal Neurology, concluded that people with an average age of 81 who showed no existing signs of dementia and ate the greens were deemed to be a dozen years younger cognitively than others in the test group who didn’t dig in. So if you want to stay sharp, fill up on fresh kale, spinach, swiss chard, collard greens and watercress. At the same time, you might want to steer clear of those overthe-counter (OTC), so-called brain health

supplements and herbal remedies claiming to improve concentration, enhance short term memory, slow cognitive decline — or even avert dementia. “I would love it if there were a magic pill. It would make our jobs much easier,” says Dr. Anthony Zizza, who is a professor of geriatrics at Harvard Medical School and the regional medical director for Landmark Health, which provides in-home care for seniors nationwide. “What I tell patients is that if you think you can take something, whether it’s a medication or an over-thecounter supplement, that will be the silver bullet, you can’t. It doesn’t exist. It does not exist. I wish it did.” Rima Itani Al-Nimr, MS, RDN, LD, who is a clinical research dietician in the department of medicine at Dartmouth-Hitchcock Medical Center in Lebanon, says, “Currently, there is no good-quality or sufficient evidence to support the benefit of any dietary supplement marketed to prevent dementia or cognitive decline, and there is no compelling evidence to prescribe any supplement for this purpose.” Nevertheless, the manufacturers of these products are taking in big bucks by preying upon seniors’ terrifying thoughts of memory loss. One of the more prevalent products easily acquired over the counter almost anywhere is Prevagen. Priced at anywhere from $40 to $90 per bottle for a monthly supply, it claims in its ubiquitous national TV, radio and magazine ads, infomercials and social media campaigns to support seniors’ brain health, improve concentration and stop memory loss. But the Federal Trade Commission and the New York attorney general have charged the product’s marketers with making false and unsubstantiated claims, and the status of the lawsuit remains pending. The consumer protection section of the website of the New Hampshire attorney general has a link to the information, which lists estimated gross revenues for Prevagen at roughly $165 million — the same amount the FTC wants, via fines, to return to people who bought the product. Still, the product is only one among a multitude of this type of supplement being hawked over the counter, and ABC News reports that more than $140 million is generated in combined annual profits for the different companies making them. As for the proverbial adding insult to in-

illustration by victoria marcelino



“I would love it if there were a magic pill. It would make our jobs so much easier. ... It doesn’t exist. It does not exist. I wish it did.” -Dr. Anthony Zizza jury, some supplements can do real damage to your health as well as to your wallet. “It is important to note that in the United States, dietary supplements do not qualify as either a food or a drug and fall outside the umbrella of the FDA [the US Food and Drug Administration] for both manufacturer regulation and consumer protection,” says Itani Al-Nimr. “What is on the label is not necessarily what is in the bottle, and quality control is lacking. This can lead to potential serious issues with intake and safety. It is our job as healthcare professionals to ask our patients about the use of these supplements, and to advise them on the risks involved. At best, these supplements are a waste of money when it comes to preventing cognitive decline, and at worst, they may be unsafe.” The experts say that it’s also important to

False Claims

recognize that there is no supplement, herbal remedy or vitamin available over the counter that can cure any of the other chronic conditions like cancer, cardiovascular disease, stroke, diabetes, arthritis and the rest. Moreover, with the lack of regulation by the FDA, which is the government agency required to ensure that prescription drugs and over-the-counter pain medications and cold remedies are safe and perform as claimed before they can be sold, store shelves and websites are akin to the “wild, wild West.” Even worse, when mixed with prescription medications, supplements can create a toxic cocktail. “Just because they are over the counter does not mean that you can take them safely and be carefree,” says Dr. Samuel J. Goldman, who is a physician with Elliott Senior Health Primary Care in Manchester. He adds a

If it sounds too good to be true, then it is, according to the conventional wisdom. The experts on aging, cognitive decline and brain research say there is very little to no scientific evidence to

603 LIVING great many of his patients spend a significant amount of money on supplements and vitamins. “It’s very important to talk to your doctor before you take anything.” The operative word in that sage advice is doctor. It is not well-meaning friend, family member, neighbor, TV pitchman or stranger. So if you’re worried about experiencing those “senior moments” or simply wish to stay well and vital, what does the doctor order? “Whole food nutrition is optimum. The best thing you can do for yourself is to eat a healthy, well-balanced diet, and the Mediterranean diet has proven time and time again to be very healthy for people,” says Zizza. The clinical research dietician is in complete agreement. “A long-term intake of a Mediterranean-type meal plan with a focus on fruits, vegetables, whole grains, nuts, seeds, beans, fish, olive oil, fermented dairy such as yogurt and fiber is associated with reduced risk of cardiovascular problems over time. This in turn may possibly directly or indirectly reduce risk of dementia,” says Itani Al-Nimr. “Fish intake of two to three servings per week is associated with reduced cardiovascular risk, and a possible reduced risk of dementia. A higher food intake of plants, like flavonoid-containing berries, is associated with reduced inflammation and may slow cognitive decline.” NH

support the claims made by a wide swath of so-called overthe-counter “brain health” supplements and herbal remedies. In fact, the Federal Trade Commission and the New York State attorney general have charged the manufacturer of one of the products, Prevagen, with making false claims as a memory booster and the legal action is pending. Is there any recourse for Granite Staters who fear they’ve wasted their hard-earned money on any of these OTC supplements? “Surprisingly, we do not get many complaints about these products,” says James Boffetti, New Hampshire’s senior assistant attorney general and the chief of the state’s Consumer Protection and Antitrust Bureau. “I’ve been here since 2009 and we have received very few calls where people would say there were [false] claims that were made, or I bought this because it was going to improve my memory, or whatever, and it doesn’t seem to do anything. If people feel they have bought these products that did not work as promised, they are encouraged to call my office.” The NH Department of Justice’s Consumer Protection and Antitrust Bureau acts to protect consumers from unfair or deceptive trade practices in New Hampshire. Contact the office at | June 2018



Although the life expectancy for both sexes has, for the most part, gradually increased during many of the past decades, men’s gains have lagged behind women’s.

The Health Gap Men remain at greater risk BY KAREN A. JAMROG


e hear a lot these days about the gender gap, and with good reason. In addition to the inequalities between the sexes that are most discussed, though, such as differences in pay and power, there is another — and in this case, women have the advantage. Statistics show that throughout life men are more likely than women to die. Men have a higher risk than women of dying from heart disease, cancer, diabetes, suicide and other leading causes of death in this country. Although the life expectancy for both sexes has, for the most part, gradually increased during many of the past decades, men’s gains have lagged behind women’s. Indeed, even though men are, generally speaking, the stronger sex, with their typically bigger bodies and muscles, they are

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expected to live, on average, about five years less than women. The shoe’s on the other foot when it comes to certain ailments, of course, with women more likely than men to experience diseases such as breast cancer and osteoporosis. In addition, more women than men are obese, and being overweight or obese raises the risk of a number of health problems, including diabetes, high blood pressure and some forms of cancer. Women again have a slight advantage here, though, because they tend to carry excess weight around their hips and thighs, whereas men often accumulate more belly fat, which is considered particularly dangerous because it includes visceral fat that lies deep in the body, among the organs in the abdomen. Science is still not able to clearly explain

all of the health risk differences that exist between the sexes, but most likely, a blend of biological, behavioral and social factors contribute to the disparities, says Leon Hecht III, ND, a naturopathic doctor at North Coast Family Health in Portsmouth. Consider lifestyle choices, for example. Compared to women, men are more likely to engage in risky behavior. Some of that risk can be traced to occupation, with more men than women working in the fishing industry or employed as firefighters and construction workers. But men are also more likely to abuse alcohol or drugs, and to exercise less than women and eat less healthful diets. They tend to have less robust social support systems, with more women maintaining closer friendships. More men than women lack health insurance, and fewer men have preventive checkups. Meanwhile, women’s monthly menstrual cycles might help them be more attuned to their body, Hecht says, and perhaps raise their awareness of their overall health and early signs of illness. Cultural pressures on women to be physically appealing, he adds, as harmful as those can be, might help motivate some women to forgo unhealthful food and exercise more regularly.

illustration by max gagnon




For now, at least, the best all of us — male or female — can do to help sway the odds of longevity and good health in our favor is to fortify what Hecht calls “the three pillars” of health: diet, fitness and sleep. That means, he says, eating a diet that is heavy on vegetables, exercising on a regular basis, and consistently getting seven to eight hours of restful sleep per night. All three pillars are important, but “the fitness piece is huge,” Hecht says. “We are not meant to sit; we’re not designed for that. For a lot of us, once the day starts, it’s not ours anymore, so even if you can just do half an hour of exercise in the morning, it helps.” It’s all about “getting back to basics,” Hecht says, and “thinking about how we were designed.” NH

A top threat to men’s health

Men are at greater risk than women for most of the leading causes of death, including heart disease, cancer, diabetes and suicide. On average, men live shorter lives than women. But of all of the heightened health risks specific to men, one of the most significant — especially here in New Hampshire — is addiction, says Boris Golosarsky, MD, FACPI, an internal medicine physician at Foundation Adult Medicine and Men’s Health in Nashua, and an addiction treatment specialist at ROAD to a Better Life in New Hampshire. Addiction “is a cornerstone men’s health problem,” Golosarsky says, and “a huge problem” in the Granite

State. New Hampshire has one of the highest rates in the country of death due to drug overdose, and statistics show that men are more likely than women to use illicit drugs. Overdose deaths are “such a highly preventable thing,” Golosarsky says, but many men do not get addiction treatment. Some are ashamed to admit they have a problem and need help, for example, or they have underlying psychiatric disease and struggle to find a care provider close to home. “Most patients I see [who are addicted] try very hard to get back on their feet,” Golosarsky says. “They try to get it back together but it’s very difficult.” Many lack transportation, so even if they want to get to treatment or just get a job, they can’t. Meanwhile, Golosarsky says, “the drug dealer is right there on the corner.” More attention and resources need to be devoted to the problem of addiction in New Hampshire, Golosarsky says, but in the meantime “we need to spread the word that help is out there.” Each week when he works at a ROAD to a Better Life addiction clinic, patients bring pictures of someone close to them who died from an overdose — often a brother, uncle, or nephew. “It’s terrible,” he says. “These were nice, clean people. ... And it’s the most preventable cause of death in New Hampshire.” For more information, see the website of ROAD to a Better Life:

10 years of great beer & fine food.

September 15, 2018

Tickets | June 2018




Spring Into Summer Making zucchini lovable again Zucchini Noodles With Herb Pesto 1 1/2 lbs. zucchini (about 2 medium) 1/2 cup olive oil 4 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 cups baby spinach 1 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley, stems removed 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary 3 tablespoons chopped mint 2-3 cloves of garlic 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese Kosher salt Pepper, freshly ground Optional: 1/3 cup pine nuts, slivered almonds or sunflower seeds Using a spiralizer, make noodles out of the zucchini and set aside. Place the oil and mayonnaise into a food processor. Add the spinach, parsley, rosemary, mint, garlic and Parmesan cheese (and nuts, if using). Process until smooth, scraping the sides of the bowl with a spatula as necessary. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

photo by celeste guidice

More Info Liz Barbour The Creative Feast Organizations can contact Barbour directly for book signings or classes.

Flowers are more than dressing for your garden. Chef Liz Barbour of Hollis has recently released a new cookbook featuring creative culinary uses for edible flowers, fresh herbs and garden vegetables. “Beautifully Delicious: Cooking with Herbs & Edible Flowers” features more than 60 delightful recipes that are as visually appealing as they are clever, but not difficult to master. As an avid gardener, Barbour offers tips for harvesting, storing and using flowers in baking, cooking and garnishing. The frosting on the cake is several recipes for adding flower power to drinks, both potent or not, that create an additional layer of flavor and a large dollop of eye appeal. The author teaches culinary arts as Liz Barbour’s Creative Feast, with everything from basic knife skills to seasonal recipes to delicious desserts. 82 | June 2018

Toss 3/4 cup of pesto with the noodles, adding more to taste.

Locally, she can be seen in the Hampton School District, June 20, 8 a.m.; Amherst Library, June 21, 6:30 p.m.; and Canterbury Shaker Village, June 28, 5:30 p.m. Reservations are required, and can be made directly through the various venues. She has also scheduled an open garden tour and book signing at her lovely purple 1774 cape in Hollis on June 24, 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. “Beautifully Delicious” By Liz Barbour Photos and design by Celeste Guidice of Nashua $35

If you would like to serve this dish hot, don’t cook it on the stovetop. Zucchini can get soggy if heated too long. Chef Barbour heats the pesto-dressed zucchini in the microwave until warmed through, about 3 minutes for the al dente texture. Leftover pesto can be refrigerated up to five days or frozen for later use. Barbour suggests using the pesto to elevate the flavors of chicken, sirloin, pork and seafood. Or spread it on sandwiches or as a side to scrambled eggs. In the book she describes how the above recipe can be made into zucchini herb pancakes with the addition of an egg and breadcrumbs. P.S. Zucchini blossoms are the perfect garnish.

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Prescott Park Arts Festival The state’s most sprawling summer arts festival returns in 2018 for yet another season of world-class entertainment for the whole family. A chili cook-off has the festival part covered, while an impressive music and theatre roster takes care of the arts. In addition to weekly movie nights and a theatrical production of “Seussical the Musical” on the main stage, big-name performers this year include Iron & Wine and Kurt Vile. To avoid fighting for a spot in the first-come, first-served outdoor spaces, don’t forget to reserve a blanket or table in advance. Dates and times vary. Prescott Park, 105 Marcy St., Portsmouth. (603) 436-2848;

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photo courtesy of prescott park, by david murray/clear eye photo




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public awareness about the “silent epidemic” of brain injuries. Join the brain injury community during this annual walk along Hampton Beach to celebrate individual accomplishments and share a fun day at the shore. 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Hampton Beach State Park, 160 Ocean Blvd., Hampton. (603) 225-8400;


photo by john gauvin

Sippin’ for Seals Sample delicious bites prepared by local chefs, sip on cocktails by the sea, and tear up the dance floor to live music in support of the Seacoast Science Center’s Marine Mammal Rescue Program. The Atlantic Grill’s master bartender will be concocting a special drink just for the event. Purchase tickets to try your luck at winning your favorite bottle of wine in the Wall of Wine Raffle, or buy a signature seal light-up pen and join in on the Heads-or-Tails Raffle game for a chance to win the grand prize basket. $50. 6 to 9 p.m., Seacoast Science Center, 570 Ocean Blvd., Rye. (603) 436-2235;

8/9–8/11 61st New Hampshire Antiques Show The best antique dealers from across the Granite State come together to create an unforgettable summer show. The professional dealers save merchandise throughout the year, and offer a wide range of both country and formal antique furniture and accessories. Look for items including paintings, textiles, Shaker furniture, clocks, lighting and so much more. $10-$15. Thurs-Fri 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sat 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., The Manchester Downtown Hotel, 700 Elm St., Manchester.

Fairs & Festivals 6/21–6/23

Concord Market Days Festival Celebrate summer in the capital with this annual free fest. Throughout the weekend, visitors can enjoy hundreds of vendors and exhibitors, concerts in both Eagle and Bicentennial Squares and a beer tent smack dab in the middle of the festival. The weekend also coincides with the Capital City 10K, in case you like your street food served with a side of athleticism. Free. Main Street, Concord. (603) 226-2150;


New Hampshire Music Festival Classical music lovers, your event has arrived. Venues throughout Plymouth and Wolfeboro come alive for this festival with the sounds of orchestras, choruses and professional soloists on instruments and voice. Highlights of the five-week fest include Beethoven’s “Triple Concerto” and Stephenson’s “Ode to Peace.” Dates, times and locations vary. Wolfeboro and Plymouth. (603) 238-9007;


Hillsboro Balloon Fest & Fair From live music and a parade to a fairway full of carnival rides, this legendary festival is packed with activities. These majestic hot air vehicles take off daily at 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. For a free spectacle, stick around until dusk on Friday night. Grimes Field, 29 Preston St., Hillsboro. (603) 464-5858;


League of NH Craftmen’s Fair Start clearing out the car — you’ll want plenty of trunk space for this. Artisans and crafters from around the state set up shop at this massive fest, which boasts 25,000 attendees annually and the title of the oldest continuously running craft fair in the US. Come ready to shop or just ready to learn and admire, either in the learn-how-it’s-made workshops scattered throughout the week or in

the exhibition building full of curated art shows. There’s also live music, chances to meet artisans and other fun events held throughout the week. Mount Sunapee Resort, 1398 Rte. 103, Newbury. (603) 763-3500;


Atlas Festival of Fireworks Each year, Atlas puts on a spectacular end-of-summer fireworks show. Don’t miss out on this stunning display. Silver Ranch Airpark, Jaffrey. Sponsored event


Moose Festival Head to Colebrook the weekend before Labor Day to celebrate all things moose. This year’s festivities include live music, arts and crafts vendors, horse and wagon rides, and rumor has it that there will be a moose calling contest. Bring the whole family to this old-time fun event that showcases the many diverse talents and services in the North Country. 3 to 8 p.m., Downtown Main Street, Colebrook. (603) 237-8939;

Benefits 6/1–6/3

Food Trucks for CASA It’s not every day that a charity event can also claim a spot among the state’s hippest food fests, but the new benefit for CASA of NH pulls it off (this is the second year). Local craft breweries and food trucks, including Clyde’s Cupcakes and Mr. Twister Pretzels, form the backbone of the day, with live bands rounding things out. $5-$35. 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., McIntyre Ski Area, 50 Chalet Ct., Manchester. (603) 273-2055;


32nd Annual Walk by the Sea & Picnic This annual event benefits The Brain Injury Association of New Hampshire’s efforts to create more


Simply Shaker Summer Celebration: Annual Dinner & Auction Canterbury Shaker Village has educated and entertained Granite Staters for 48 years, and this fête lets you aid in their longstanding mission. In addition to live and silent auctions and a family-style, Shaker-inspired dinner, attendees can also peruse New England and the Village. $100. 5 p.m., Canterbury Shaker Village, 288 Shaker Rd., Canterbury. (603) 7839511;


Seek the Peak This fundraiser for the Mount Washington Observatory bills itself as the nation’s premier hiking event. The centerpiece is a trek up the mountain’s 6,289 feet, but you can also participate through a shorter climb or walk (organizers have several suggestions available near the center of the action) or as a donation-only “virtual hiker.” $10. Fri 4 to 9 p.m., Sat 6 a.m. to 7 p.m., Mount Washington Observatory, 2779 Mount Washington Hwy., North Conway. (603) 356-2137;


Southeast NH Habitat for Humanity Annual Golf Tournament Charity golf tourneys and Habitat for Humanity are both well-established, but they’ve never crossed paths on New Hampshire’s Seacoast until now. Hitting the links for Habitat is a great way to raise funds for the group and to warm up your home-building arms — they’re always looking for individual or corporate building volunteers. $200. 12 to 8 p.m., Wentworth By The Sea Country Club, 60 Wentworth Rd., Rye. (603) 433-9555;

Sports & Recreation 6/3–8/7

Statewide Children’s Fishing Tournaments This one’s for the kiddos. Grab your fishing poles and box of worms and check out a local fishing derby in your town. Fish all day, sample delicious food, participate in raffles and win prizes for categories like “longest fish” in derbies taking place across the Granite State all summer long. Prices, times and locations vary. (603) 271-3421;


Women’s Golf Day Good ol’ boys and businessmen take a knee. This fairway event is just for the ladies. Participants can spend the first two hours either enjoying a nine-hole scramble or testing out cutting-edge gear with vendors, and, | June 2018


603 LIVING for the second half of the night, schmooze their way through a wine-and-cheese reception and a book signing with Christina Ricci, best-selling author or “A Girl’s On-Course Survival Guide to Golf.” $20. 4 to 8 p.m., Willowcreek Golf Academy, 32 Club House Dr., Atkinson. (603) 362-8700;


Laconia Motorcycle Week You might know our local Bike Week best as a Lakes Region traffic headache, but if you’ve never stopped in for the festivities, this may be your year. The 95-yearold rally starts its countdown to 100 years this summer, and the schedule includes as much tasty food, rockin’ live tunes (from Molly Maguires and MB Padfield Duo, among others) and interesting historical motorcycle programming as rough-andtumble biker appeal. Prices and times vary with event, Weirs Beach. (603) 366-2000;



New Hampshire 301 If you haven’t taken the plunge to attend a NASCAR race at New Hampshire Motor Speedway, here is your chance. This event, a crucial marker on the road to the league championship, attracts some of the biggest names in driving. The Speedway’s North East Motor Sports Museum will also be open, so be sure to pay it a visit while you’re perusing the racetrack grounds. Prices vary. 3 p.m., New Hampshire Motor Speedway, 1122 NH-106, Loudon. (603) 783-4931;


Lake Wentworth Sailing Regatta Get your tweens and teens out on the water with this annual boating bonanza. Intermediate and advanced sailors face off in Opti, Sunfish, catamaran and mono hull races throughout the afternoon, while spectators and participants alike chow down on potluck goodies on shore. If you’d like to participate but don’t have a boat handy, fear not: Organizers have 20 available to use if you reserve early. 2 p.m., Albee Beach, Wolfeboro. (603) 569-4554;


Mt. Kearsarge Hill Climb Channel your inner Lance Armstrong (preferably without the doping scandal) at this uphill race. An 8-mile course takes riders from the town of Warner to the summit parking lot of 2,936-foot Mt. Kearsarge, with prizes for the fastest finishers waiting at the top. For a funkier challenge, grab a friend and enter in the tandem bike division. $60-$85. 9:30 a.m., Kearsarge Business Center, 139 Kearsarge Mountain Rd., Warner.

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White Mountains Triathlon Not only is this athletic event among the most scenic triathlons in the state, it’s also the only one with a whole festival built around it. Over two days, runner-biker-swimmers can participate in either the sprint, half-Iron man or Olympic distance races, and they can hang around for a Saturday night mountaintop Sunset Social and a post-race BBQ on Sunday afternoon. Prices vary. Fri 6 a.m., Sat 5:30 a.m., Cannon Mountain Ski Area, 260 Tramway Dr., Franconia. (603) 488-1186;


Miscellaneous 6/10

Kids Con New England 2018 Comic-Con isn’t just for grown-ups anymore. This kid-centered comic book convention features all kinds of programming for your little nerds in training, from cartooning workshops and Disney singalongs to gaming tournaments in Mario Kart and Pokemon. Be sure to dig out those old Halloween getups too — costumes (of the modest and weapon-free variety) are welcome. $10-$12. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Radisson Hotel Nashua, 11 Tara Blvd., Nashua.


12th Annual Boathouse Tour Half the fun of admiring a lakefront property is wondering what’s inside — but, after this tour, you’ll wonder no more. Take a peek at some of Lake Winnipesaukee’s finest boathouses to see the ins and outs of the sometimes-chic, sometimes-rustic structures that house the lake’s watercraft. You can make this tour self-guided, but we recommend riding in style with the guided versions chauffeured by boat or antique car. $36-$40. 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Meredith. (603) 569-4554;


6th Annual Cruise in to the Wright — Antique Car, Hot Rod & Motorcycle Show Put on your poodle skits, grease up your duck tail hairdos, buckle up and cruise in to the Wright Museum for this annual event dedicated to unique varieties of cars and motorcycles. The popular doo-wop group, The Bel Airs, will entertain you with live music as you take walk down memory lane. This year’s featured car is the classic 196473 Mustang. $6-$10. 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., The Wright Museum of World War II, 77 Center St., Wolfeboro.

Summer Theatre “Tru” This summer play celebrates one of the most celebrated writers of the 20th century, Truman Capote. He used his complex personality and tapped into his extravagant lifestyle to give his writing flair. “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and “In Cold Blood” made him a literary star. He became one of New York’s social elite and was accepted into the group, until he started to write about them. This one-man play is adapted from his works and words, and takes place in 1975. Written by Jay Presson Allen, directed by Gus Kaikkonen and starring Kraig Swartz, this show will not disappoint. $39. Times vary, Peterborough Players, 55 Hadley Rd., Peterborough. (603) 924-7585;


7/19–7/22 Stratham Fair Fair season gets underway in July, and the season-opener honors go to Stratham. For the classic fair experience, grab some fried food, stroll the fairway, and settle in for a concert or tractor pull — but don’t overlook the 4-H festivities. Dog shows are shows that are great for little animal-lovers, rowdy swine shows are perfect for rambunctious kids, and the buildings housing “non-walking” projects, such as photography and sewing, are tailor-made for moms and dads who need a break from funnel cake fumes and July sun. $5-$10. Thurs 3 to 10 p.m., Fri-Sun 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Stratham Fairgrounds, 270 Portsmouth Ave., Stratham. (603) 772-4977;

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“Little Women” This American classic is coming to the Granite State this summer. One hundred and fifty years ago, Louisa May Alcott wrote a story about the resilient March family including Amy, Meg, Beth, Marmie — and the most beloved of all, Jo, an independent young woman struggling to find her voice in the world. This musical adaption of the Civil War-era novel exudes themes of hope, heartache and the resiliency of the American spirit. $20-$36. Times vary, New London Barn Playhouse, 84 Main St., New London. (603) 526-6710;


“Evita” This pop-opera play covers the life of Argentine political leader Eva Peron. With original music by Andrew Lloyd Webber, this musical

photo by emily heidt




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by suzanne laurent

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Atlantic Grill Music by the Sea Concerts This summer-long concert series brings some of New England’s hottest bands to the Seacoast on Thursday nights. Enjoy great tunes from bands, like Granite Planet or Joshua Tree, and the seaside setting while supporting the Center and their ocean education mission. Bring a blanket or chair, pack a picnic, or purchase freshly grilled dinner beverages onsite. Concert-goers can also enjoy the center and its exhibits, free with concert admission. $4-$12. 6 to 8:30 p.m., Seacoast Science Center, 570 Ocean Blvd., Rye. (603) 436-2235;



6/9 Market Square Day Grab your family and friends, and join festivalgoers in cele-


SoulFest Celebrating music, love and action — this annual festival is held in the picturesque mountains and lakes region of Gilford. As New England’s largest Christian festival, SoulFest has become a summer staple for people to come and camp, shop and enjoy three days of speak-


courtesy of new england brewfest


2018 Bank of NH Children’s Summer Series Are you a Disney fan? Then this summer play list is for you. The Summer Children’s Series presents a variety of well-known and loved stories that include music, dancing, audience participation and more. Even better? Your kiddos have the opportunity to meet the characters at the end of every show. This year’s lineup includes “Beauty and the Beast,” “Cinderella,” “Aladdin,” “The Little Mermaid,” “Wizard of Oz,” “Peter Pan” and “The Jungle Book.” $9. Shows at 10 a.m. and 6:30 p.m., The Palace Theatre, 80 Hanover St., Manchester. (603) 668-5588;


“Singers and Swingers” Bring the whole family for an exhilarating evening as circus artists and singers come together with performances from the high wire to the high C’s. Enjoy live music from Broadway in a beautiful outdoor setting along the Connecticut River. This unique experience will be the first at Blow-Me-Down Farm in Cornish — with something fun for everyone. $20-$40. Times vary, Blow-Me-Down Farm, 364 New Hampshire 12A, Cornish. (603) 448-0400;


“My Hero: Tour” Andy’s Playhouse focuses on creating innovative theatre for children in the surrounding community, and they have done it again with this summer performance. The play asks the question, “what makes someone a hero? Are they brave, shrewd or strong?” Get together with a group of travelers as they share

their stories of heroes to pass the time on their adventures to change the world. You might even discover heroes right in your backyard along the way. $8-$16. Times vary, Andy’s Summer Playhouse, 582 Isaac Frye Hwy., Wilton. (603) 654-2613;

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is full of life and will be sure to deliver a “wow” factor that you won’t forget. $25-$35. Times vary, Interlakes Theatre, 1 Laker Ln., Meredith. (603) 707-6035;




brating downtown Portsmouth. Thousands of people will walk through Portsmouth enjoying entertainment, products and food offered by local artists, crafters and merchants — many from the Seacoast area. Kick off the day by running (or walking) the 10K Road Race through the streets lined with festive booths and cheering crowds. 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Market Square Day, Congress St., Portsmouth. (603) 433-4398;

Dustbowl Revival The Dustbowl Revival has made a name for itself with its vibrant mix of vintage American sounds. This eclectic eightpiece band features guitar, ukulele, mandolin, fiddle, trumpet, trombone, bass and drums. L.A. Weekly says that their “upbeat, old-soul, All-American sonic safaris exemplify everything shows should be: hot, spontaneous, engaging and, best of all, a pleasure to hear.” $17-$24. 8 p.m., The Colonial Theatre, 2050 Main St., Bethlehem. (603) 869-3422;


“Seussical” The Cat in the Hat is back to narrate some of Dr. Seuss’ most famous stories. Horton the Elephant discovers the Whos living on a speck of dust and tasks himself with protecting them from a world of dangers. Not only that, but he must guard an abandoned egg, left in his care by Mayzie La Bird. The themes of family, loyalty and friendship, as well as the powers of community, emerge triumphant. This magical and fantastical musical is fun for the whole family. Prices and times vary, Jean’s Playhouse, 34 Papermill Dr., Lincoln. (603) 7452141;


6/23 New England Brewfest

Soul2Soul: Tim McGraw & Faith Hill Country’s favorite couple is coming to the Queen City for a night that you won’t forget. The Soul2Soul World Tour is approaching one million in attendance and has stunned audiences across the country. It includes a deep catalog of individual hits from “Live Like You Were Dying” to “This Kiss,” and songs off of their new album “The Rest of Our Life.” Their energy and chemistry is contagious and one of the reasons why Rolling Stone has said “the show’s tightly executed production was upstaged only by the couple themselves, who are undeniably at their best when collaborating.” $69.50-$138. 7:30 p.m., SNHU Arena, 555 Elm St., Manchester. (603) 644-5000;

Beer lovers, rejoice! The self-proclaimed ultimate craft beer weekend returns to Loon Mountain and surrounds this year for three days of nonstop brews. Saturday’s On Tap anchors the festival, with tastings of over 100 beers plus live music and vendors, but there are lots more festivities planned. Don’t miss the fête’s beer-pairing dinners or Hop Talks. $45-$70. Times and locations around Lincoln-Woodstock vary. (603) 745-6621;

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ers and music. This summer’s lineup includes performances by Colton Dixon, TobyMac, Skillet, For King & Country and many more. Go for an evening of fun, or stay the whole weekend and make an adventure out of it; either way it is sure to be a one-of-a-kind experience. $20$3,000. Times vary, Gunstock Mountain Resort, 719 Cherry Valley Rd., Gilford. (978) 346-4577;


The Bacon Brothers Award-winning actor Kevin Bacon and his brother Michael Bacon, an Emmy-winning composer, have spent more than 20 years writing and creating seven albums together. While you might be focused on their Hollywood credentials, the two brothers are coming to the Granite State to play songs like “Driver” or “Broken Glass.” Don’t miss out on an evening spent with these iconic brothers. $40-$55. 8 p.m., The Tupelo Music Hall, 10 A St., Derry. (603) 437-5100;


White Mountain Boogie n’ Blues Festival With two decades of festivals and a bevy of national blues preservation awards under its belt, this boogie fest is not to be missed. This year’s lineup includes Eric Gales, Heather Gillis and Davy Knowles. To really dive into the festival experience, rent a campsite on the Boogie’s sprawling White Mountains grounds. $70-$100. Fri 3 to 10 p.m., Sat 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sun 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sugar Shack Campground, NH Rte. 175, Thornton. (603) 726-3867;

8/24 and 8/25

Chris Stapleton Long-haired and long-bearded country singer Chris Stapleton burst onto the scene in 2015 with his awards-sweeping debut album “Traveller,” and he’s still going strong three years later. Catch his Bank of NH Pavilion Show for bluesy tunes like “Tennessee Whiskey” and sets from Marty Stuart and Brent Cobb. $40-$60. 7 p.m., Bank of New Hampshire Pavilion, 72 Meadowbrook Ln., Gilford. (603) 293-4700;

Visual Arts & Museums 6/16–9/9

Beyond Words: Book Illustrations by David M. Carroll, Tomie dePaola and Beth Krommes What do David Carroll, Tomie DePaola and Beth Krommes all have in common? They are each award-winning Granite State book illustrators, and they are bringing their original artwork from their most popular books back to the Currier Museum. Their drawings will be shown alongside their artwork and offer unique insights into how their beloved publications were created. The exhibition looks at the development of the style of each artist and their creative process along the way. The Currier Museum, 150 Ash St., Manchester. (603) 669-6144;


The Forgotten War: Korea 1950 Photographs by Max Desfor This exhibit pays homage to the Americans, North and South Koreans, and Chinese that passed away during the Korean War, or “The Forgotten War.” Associated Press photographer Max Desfor captured the humanity and inhumanity of the war during 1950 in 36 photographs. He received a Pulitzer Prize for his images, such as a host of Korean refugees “crawling through and into and above and onto the broken-down bridge, it was like ants crawling through the girders,” says Desfor.

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6/23 Darci Lynn She stole our hearts and was one of the youngest contestants to win NBC’s “Americas Got Talent” last season, and now she is coming to Hampton Beach. Singer/ventriloquist Darci Lynn is touring with her friends Petunia, the diva-esque rabbit, Oscar, the shy and soulful mouse, and Edna, the brash old woman. Her ventriloquism talents will leave you speechless and her vocal skills will leave you breathless. This is a summer treat that you won’t want to miss. $37-$77. 3 and 7 p.m., Hampton Beach Casino Ballroom, 169 Ocean Blvd., Hampton Beach. (603) 929-4100; The Museum is dedicated to educating future generations about American history by presenting moving exhibits, and this exhibit continues this commitment. $6-$10. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., The Wright Museum of World War II, 77 Center St., Wolfeboro.

Food & Drink 6/2

Chowder Festival Are you a lover of all things chowder? Then don’t miss this festival. One of New England’s oldest and largest chowder tasting events is back, and will be packed with dozens of restaurants serving piping hot chowder to enjoy. Plus, there will be live music and delicious drinks. Seacoast restaurants will come together to bring you their most mouthwatering chowder recipes to compete for the Best Chowder title and take home the Golden Ladle. In the past, chowder recipes have included smoked scallop, vegetarian, corn and spicy seafood. Music will be provided by WOKQ, and there will be country entertainment on the Wilcox Industries Main Stage all day. $7-$10. Event starts at 11:30 a.m., Prescott Park Arts Festival, Portsmouth. (603) 436-2848;


New Hampshire Brewers Festival For a beer fest that’s all New Hampshire, all the time, look no further than this fifth annual event. Held in Concord this year, the event features more than 40 Granite State breweries, making it the largest single collection of NH breweries found at any event in 2018. Sample a few, get to know the brewers at the less-crowded VIP hour, and head home with an updated list of all the local beermakers you need to pay a visit. 12 to 4 p.m., Kiwanis Waterfront Park, 15 Loudon Rd., Concord. (334) 603-2337;


Fire on the Mountain Chili Fest Pair the heat in the forecast with heat in your dish. Local restaurants face off in the professional chili-making category, while dedicated home chefs from New Hampshire and beyond go toe-to-toe for best amateur chili chef. Sample as many as you can stomach (and cast your People’s Choice award vote) and enjoy the fest’s other offerings, including a kid-zone and a vendor fair featuring more than 20 specialty food and craft purveyors. $6-$12. 12 to 4:30 p.m., Pats Peak Ski Area, 686 Flanders Rd., Henniker.


Hampton Beach Seafood Festival Close out your summer with the granddaddy of all Granite State food fests. You likely know the drill with legendary ode to oceanside eats, but if you need a reminder, here’s the gist: 60 Seacoast restaurants offering up lobster, fried clams and other surf and turf favorites, plus skydiving demos, fireworks, a lobster roll-eating contest and three full days of season-ending boardwalk adventures. Fri 4 to 9 p.m., Sat 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sun 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Ocean Blvd., Hampton Beach. (603) 9268718;

Find additional events at calendar, plus find even more summer fun events, attractions and suggestions at Submit events eight weeks in advance to Emily Heidt at or enter your own at Not all events are guaranteed to be published either online or in the print calendar. Event submissions will be reviewed and, if deemed appropriate, approved by a New Hampshire Magazine editor.

courtesy photo


Discover the White Mountain Attractions THE MOUNT WASHINGTON June 9 & 16

Lodging packages available!


! ! n Trai

Ride to the Top of by Mt . Washington ... It’s the finals of New England’s prestigious “America’s Got The Goods” show, a glamorous affair with plenty of talent on display for your enjoyment. What will the competitors do for the $1 million cash prize and their own headline show at the national finals in Vegas! Reservations required. • (603) 356-5251

Find Tickets, Schedule, Special Trains , Discounts & Events at THECOG.COM BASE STATION RD, MT WASHINGTON, NH 800-922-8825 OPEN MAY - NOVEMBER


Drive • Tour • Explore


Af Am Ily T


Just 20 minutes north of North Conway



Winter Tours on






WOlfmAN 110 DANIEL WEBSTER HWY • RTE 3, LINCOLN, NH (603) 745-8913 •


Guided tours run all day on a first-come basis Reservations are also available online! | June 2018




Good Eats

photo by susan laughlin


Find charming outdoor dining at Cava Tapas & Wine Bar in Portsmouth. Cava Tapas & Wine Bar 10 Commercial Alley, Portsmouth Sunday-Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m., Friday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Saturday from 2-10 p.m.

92 | June 2018

Hidden Outdoor Dining

One of the most charming outdoor dining spaces in the state is along the brick-paved, pedestrian-only Commercial Alley in Portsmouth. Chef Gregg Sessler of Cava is well-known for his excellent and inventive modern tapas and flavorful renditions of Latin classics, such as patatas bravas, empanadas and his own rendition of paella. Other bites include a fried cauliflower with tximitxurri sauce, chickpea fries, pork belly with chocolate and a beautiful char-grilled stuffed squid with sofrito ink. Business partner John Akar oversees the interesting wine list and makes sure there is a mezzo plate on the menu. If the weather is inclement, there are two bars inside, with the lower level as cozy as a private club. Make a note not to miss the churros, freshly fried and served with a rich milk chocolate sauce for dipping.


DINE OUT Our restaurant listings include Best of NH winners and advertisers along with others compiled by the New Hampshire Magazine editorial department. Listings are subject to change from month to month based on space availability. Expanded and highlighted listings denote advertisers. For additional and more detailed listings, visit

H Best of NH

$ Entrées cost less than $12 2017 Editor’s Picks B Breakfast H Best of NH L Lunch 2017 Reader’s Poll D Dinner $$$$ Entrées cost b Brunch more than $25 $$$ Entrées cost between ( Reservations recom-

The Crown Tavern

TAVERN 99 Hanover Street, Manchester; (603) 218-3132; thecrownonhanover. com; $–$$$ D

Cucina Toscana

ITALIAN 427 Amherst St., Nashua; (603) 821-7356;; $ L D (

MEDITERRANEAN 1069 Elm St., Manchester; (603) 666-3723;; $–$$$ L D


New – Open for one year or less

Giorgio’s Ristorante

PIZZERIA 24 Calef Hwy., Brickyard Sq., Epping; (603) 734-2809; 50 Dow St., Manchester; (603) 641-0900;; $–$$$ L D

Angelina’s Ristorante Italiano

ITALIAN 11 Depot St., Concord; (603) 228-3313;; $–$$$ L D

Bar One

GASTROPUB 40 Nashua St., Milford; (603) 249-5327; Facebook; $–$$ L D

Barley House H

TAVERN/AMERICAN 132 North Main St., Concord; (603) 228-6363; 43 Lafayette Rd., N. Hampton; (603) 3799161;; $–$$ L D

Bavaria German Restaurant

GERMAN 1461 Hooksett Rd., Hooksett; (603) 836-5280;; $–$$ L D

Bedford Village Inn H

AMERICAN 2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford; (603) 472-2001;; $$–$$$$ B L D

The Birch on Elm H

NEW AMERICAN/TAPAS 931 Elm St., Manchester; (603) 782-5365; Facebook; $–$$ L D

Buckley’s Great Steaks

STEAKHOUSE 438 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack; (603) 424-0995;; $–$$$$ D (

Cabonnay H

WINE BAR/NEW AMERICAN 55 Bridge St., Manchester; (844) 9463473;; $$$-$$$$ D

Campo Enoteca

ITALIAN 969 Elm St., Manchester; (603) 625-0256;; $–$$$ L D

Colosseum Restaurant

ITALIAN 264 North Broadway, Salem; (603) 898-1190;; $–$$ L D (

The Copper Door


Gale Motor Co. Eatery H

$$ Entrées cost between

900 Degrees H

PIZZA/ITALIAN 220 East Main St., Hampstead; (603) 378-0092; 241 Union Sq., Milford; (603) 672-2270;; $–$$ L D PIZZERIA 449 Amherst St., Nashua; (603) 864-8740; (603) 864-8740;; $-$$ L D

AMERICAN/FARM-TO-TABLE 50 Commercial St., Manchester; (603) 836-1925;; $$-$$$ D b

$18 and $25


The Pasta Loft H

The Foundry H

SMALL PLATES 36 Lowell St., Manchester; (603) 232-7059;; $–$$$ D (

$12 and $18

524-9373;; $$–$$$ L D

MEDITERRANEAN 707 Milford Rd., Merrimack; (603) 883-7333; 524 Nashua St., Milford; (603) 673-3939; 270 Granite St., Manchester; (603) 2323323;; $$–$$$ L D (

Granite Restaurant & Bar

NEW AMERICAN 96 Pleasant St., Concord; (603) 227-9000;; $$–$$$$ B L D b (

Grazing Room

Republic H

Revival Kitchen & Bar

AMERICAN 11 Depot St., Concord; (603) 715-5723; revivalkitchennh. com; $$–$$$ D (

Riverside BBQ

BBQ 53 Main St., Nashua; (603) 2045110; $–$$ L D

Stella Blu

TAPAS 70 East Pearl St., Nashua; (603) 578-5557;; $$–$$$ D

Surf Restaurant H

AMERICAN 33 The Oaks St., Henniker; (603) 428-3281;; $$–$$$$ D (

SEAFOOD 207 Main St., Nashua; (603) 595-9293; 99 Bow St., Portsmouth; (603) 334-9855;; $$–$$$$ D b

Grill 603

Taj India H

AMERICAN 168 Elm St., Milford; (603) 213-6764;; $–$$$ L D b

Gyro Spot

GREEK 1037 Elm St., Manchester; (603) 218-3869; 421 Central Ave., Dover; (603) 343-4553; thegyrospot. com; $ L D New Dover location

INDIAN 967 Elm St., Manchester; (603) 606-2677; 47 E. Pearl St., Nashua; (603) 864-8586;; $–$$ L D New location in Nashua

Tuscan Kitchen H

Hanover St. Chophouse H

ITALIAN 67 Main St., Salem; (603) 952-4875; 581 Lafayette Rd., Portsmouth; (603) 570-3600;; $$–$$$ L D

The Little Crêperie


STEAKHOUSE 149 Hanover Street, Manchester; (603) 644-2467;; L D ( CAFÉ 138 North Main St., Concord; (603) 856-7807; $ B L b

Lui Lui H

ITALIAN 259 Daniel Webster Hwy., Nashua; (603) 888-2588; 8 Glen Rd., West Lebanon; (603) 298-7070; luilui. com; $-$$ L D


ITALIAN 33 Elm St., Manchester; (603) 647-0788;; $–$$ D (

Mangia Sano

ITALIAN 321 Nashua St., Milford; (603) 554-8534; Facebook; $–$$$ D

900 Degrees H

PIZZERIA 24 Calef Hwy., Brickyard Sq., Epping; (603) 734-2809; 50 Dow St., Manchester; (603) 6410900;; $–$$$ L D

7th Settlement

BREW PUB 47 Washington St., Dover; (603) 373-1001; 7thsettlement. com; $–$$ L D

Bali Sate House

INDONESIAN 448 High St., Somersworth; Phone number (603) 7403000; Facebook; $–$$ L D

Barley House H

Bridge Street Bistrot

INTERNATIONAL 64 Bridge St., Portsmouth; (603) 430-9301;; $$–$$$ L D b (

Bubby’s NY Style Delicatessen H

NY DELI 241 Hanover St., Portsmouth; (603) 373-8981; bubbysdeli. com; $ B L D


TAPAS 10 Commercial Alley, Portsmouth; (603) 319-1575;; $–$$$ L D


NEW AMERICAN 83 Main St., Dover; (603) 842-5170; chapelandmain. com; $$–$$$ D (

Community Oven

PIZZERIA 845 Lafayette Rd., Hampton; (603) 929-0102;; $–$$$ L D

CR’s the Restaurant

AMERICAN 287 Exeter Rd., Hampton; (603) 929-7972; crstherestaurant. com; $$-$$$ L D (


NEW AMERICAN 189 State St., Portsmouth; (603) 427-8258;; $$-$$$ L D (

Durbar Square Restaurant

NEPALESE/HIMALAYAN 10 Market St., Portsmouth; (603) 294-0107; $-$$ L D (

Eastern Burger Company H

BURGERS 157 Portsmouth Ave., Stratham; (603) 580-2096;; $–$$ L D

Ember Wood Fired Grill

AMERICAN 1 Orchard St., Dover; (603) 343-1830;; $$$$$ D b (


NEW AMERICAN 2 Pine St., Exeter; (603) 772-5901;; $$$–$$$$ B L D b (

Franklin Oyster House

SEAFOOD 148 Fleet St., Portsmouth; (603) 373-8500; franklinoysterhouse. com; $-$$$ D

The Galley Hatch

AMERICAN 325 Lafayette Rd., Hampton; (603) 926-6152; galleyhatch. com; $-$$ B L D

Green Elephant H

VEGETARIAN 35 Portwalk Place, Portsmouth; (603) 427-8344;; $–$$ L D

Gyro Spot

MEDITERRANEAN 866 Elm St., Manchester; (603) 232-4066;; $-$$ D

TAVERN/AMERICAN 132 North Main St., Concord; (603) 228-6363; 43 Lafayette Rd., N. Hampton; (603) 379-9161;; $–$$ L D New location in N. Hampton

GREEK 1037 Elm St., Manchester; (603) 218-3869; 421 Central Ave., Dover; (603) 343-4553; thegyrospot. com; $ L D New Dover location

Mint Bistro

Black Trumpet Bistro


Matbah Mediterranean Cuisine

NEW AMERICAN/JAPANESE 1105 Elm St., Manchester; (603) 625-6468;; $$-$$$ L D (

INTERNATIONAL 29 Ceres St., Portsmouth; (603) 431-0887;; $$–$$$$ D (

AMERICAN 69 Water St., Exeter; (603) 583-5034; hemingwaysnh. com; $-$$$ D

MT’s Local Kitchen & Wine Bar

Block 6

Hop + grind

NEW AMERICAN 11 Leavy Dr., Bedford; (603) 488-2677; 41 S. Broadway, Salem; (603) 458-2033; $$-$$$ L D New Salem location

AMERICAN 212 Main St., Nashua; (603) 595-9334;; $–$$$ L D

NEW AMERICAN 319 Vaughan St., Portsmouth; (603) 294-9060; 3sarts. org; $$–$$$ D Located at 3S Artspace

BURGERS 17 Madbury Rd., Durham; (603) 244-2431;; $–$$ L D

Cotton H

O Steaks & Seafood H


Jonny Boston’s International H

AMERICAN 75 Arms St., Manchester; (603) 622-5488;; $$–$$$$ L D (

STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD 11 South Main St., Concord; (603) 856-7925; 62 Doris Ray Court, Lakeport; (603)

NEW AMERICAN 142 Congress St., Portsmouth; (603) 373-6464; $$–$$$ LD(

INTERNATIONAL 170 Main St., Newmarket; (603) 292-6682;; $-$$ B L D | June 2018


603 LIVING Jumpin’ Jay’s Fish Café

SEAFOOD 150 Congress St., Portsmouth; (603) 766-3474; jumpinjays. com; $$$–$$$$ D (

Laney & Lu Café H


Tuscan Kitchen H

The New Woodshed

ITALIAN 67 Main St., Salem; (603) 952-4875; 581 Lafayette Rd., Portsmouth; (603) 570-3600;; $$–$$$ L D b

AMERICAN 128 Lee Rd., Moultonborough; (603) 476-2700;; $–$$$ D

Tinos Greek Kitchen

O Bistro at the Inn on Main

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN 26 Water St., Exeter; (603) 580-4952; laneyandlu. com; $–$$ B L D

GREEK 325 Lafayette Rd., Hampton; (603) 926-6152;; $–$$ D b

AMERICAN 200 North Main St., Wolfeboro; (603) 515-1003;; $$–$$$ D

Lobster Q

Urban Farmhouse Eatery

O Steaks & Seafood H

SEAFOOD/BBQ 416 Emerson Ave., Hampstead; (603) 329-4094;; $–$$$ L D (

BREAKFAST/LUNCH 184 Lafayette Rd., North Hampton; (603) 3799965; Facebook; $–$$ B L


Vida Cantina H

NEW AMERICAN 66 Marcy St., Portsmouth; (603) 433-2340;; $$–$$$ D (

MEXICAN 2456 Lafayette Rd., Portsmouth; (603) 501-0648;; $–$$ L D


The Wellington Room

TAPAS 106 Penhallow St., Portsmouth; (603) 319-8178;; $$–$$$ D (

Nibblesworth Wood Fire Grill

NEW AMERICAN 409 The Hill, Portsmouth; (603)427-8022;; $$–$$$ L D

Otis H

AMERICAN 4 Front St., Exeter; (603) 580-1705;; $$–$$$ D

The Railpenny Tavern

TAVERN 8 Exeter St., Epping; (603) 734-2609;; $-$$$ L D b

Revolution Taproom & Grill

GASTRO PUB 61 North Main St., Rochester; (603) 244-3022; — Enjoy bar snacks like truffle fries, tapas dishes and upscale comfort food for entrées. Impressive beer list too. $-$$ L D

Rick’s Food & Spirits

AMERICAN 143 Main St., Kingston; (603) 347-5287;; $–$$ L D

Ristorante Massimo

ITALIAN 59 Penhallow St., Portsmouth; (603) 436-4000;; $$-$$$ D (

Row 34

SEAFOOD 5 Portwalk Place, Portsmouth; (603) 319-5011; row34nh. com; $-$$$ L D b (


NEW AMERICAN/WINE BAR 20 High St., Portsmouth; (603) 430-7834;; $$-$$$$ L D b (

Shio H

NEW AMERICAN 67 Bow St., Portsmouth; (603) 431-2989;; $$$–$$$$ D (


Bayside Grill and Tavern

AMERICAN 51 Mill St., Wolfeboro; (603) 894-4361;; $–$$ L D

Burnt Timber Tavern

BREWPUB/TAVERN 96 Lehner St., Wolfeboro; (603) 630-4186;; $–$$ L (Sat only) D


AMERICAN 216 South River Rd., Bedford; (603) 935-8070; 232 Whittier Hwy., Center Harbor; (603) 253-4762;;$–$$$ D (

Corner House Inn Restaurant

AMERICAN 22 Main St., Center Sandwich; (603) 284-6219; $$ L D b (

Crystal Quail

Hobbs Tavern & Brewing Co.

BREWPUB 2415 White Mountain Hwy., W. Ossipee; (603) 539-2000;; $–$$ L D

Kathleen’s Cottage

IRISH 90 Lake St., Bristol; (603) 7446336;; $–$$ L D

Sonny’s Tavern


NEW AMERICAN 328 Central Ave., Dover; (603) 343-4332;; $–$$ D b

AMERICAN 18 Main St., Center Harbor; (603) 253-8617; laviniasdining. com; $–$$$ D (



INTERNATIONAL 801 Islington St., Portsmouth; (603) 436-0860;; $ L D b

ASIAN 64 Whittier Hwy., Moultonborough; (603) 253-8100;; $–$$ L D


Local Eatery H

PIZZA 801 Islington St., Portsmouth; (603) 431-7500;; $–$$ L D

FARM-TO-TABLE 21 Veterans Sq., Laconia; (603) 527-8007;; $–$$ D (

Surf Seafood H

Mise en Place

94 | June 2018

The Sky Bridge Café H

TAPAS/PIZZA 2075 Parade Rd., Laconia; (603) 528-3057; tavern27. com; $–$$ L D (

Water Street Café

ITALIAN/AMERICAN 96 Lehner St., Wolfeboro; (603) 569-5788;; $$-$$$$ L D (

Restaurant at Burdick’s

INTERNATIONAL 10 Main St., Wilton; (603) 654-2457;; $-$$ L D

The Stage H

AMERICAN 141 Water St., Laconia; (603) 524-4144; waterstreetcafenh. com; $$ B L D

AMERICAN 30 Central Sq., Keene; (603) 357-8389; thestagerestaurant. com; $-$$ L D

Wolfe’s Tavern


NEW ENGLAND TAVERN 90 N. Main St., Wolfeboro; (603) 569-3016;; $$–$$$ B L D b (

AMERICAN 18 Water St., Peterborough; (603) 924-4001;; $-$$$ L D b (



Bantam Grill

ITALIAN 1 Jaffrey Rd., Peterborough; (603) 924-6633;; $$–$$$ D (

Bellows Walpole Inn Pub

INTERNATIONAL/AMERICAN 297 Main St., Walpole; (603) 756-3320;; $$ L D (

Cooper’s Hill Public House

IRISH PUB 6 School St., Peterborough; (603) 371-9036;; $$ D

Del Rossi’s Trattoria

Elm City Brewing

JAPANESE 2454 Lafayette Rd., Portsmouth; (603) 319-1638;; $-$$ L D

SEAFOOD 99 Bow St., Portsmouth; (603) 334-9855;; $$–$$$$ D

Tavern 27

Faro Italian Grille

AMERICAN 6 North Main St., Wolfeboro; (603) 569-7788;; $–$$ L D (

LATIN 288 Main St., Marlborough; (603) 876-5012;; $–$$ L D ( FRENCH 47 Main Street, Walpole; (603) 756-9058; burdickchocolate. com; $–$$$ L D b (

ITALIAN Rte. 137, Dublin; (603) 5637195; $$–$$$ D (


Piedra Fina

STEAKHOUSE/SEAFOOD 11 South Main St., Concord; (603) 856-7925; 62 Doris Ray Court, Lakeport; (603) 524-9373;; $$–$$$ L D

AMERICAN 202 Pitman Rd., Center Barnstead; (603) 269-4151;; $$$–$$$$ D ( ITALIAN 7 Endicott St. N., Laconia; (603) 527-8073;; $$ D (

— A historic and lovely place to enjoy a true luncheon. Fresh, local ingredients are used, including herbs from the onsite gardens. The menu changes with the season. There are three seatings at 11:30 a.m., 12:40 p.m. and 2 p.m. $$ L (

BREW PUB 222 West St., Keene; (603) 355-3335; elmcitybrewing. com; $–$$$ L D

Fox Tavern at the Hancock Inn

TAVERN 33 Main St., Hancock; (603) 525-3318; $-$$$ L D (

The Grove

AMERICAN 247 Woodbound Rd., Rindge; (603) 532-4949;; $$–$$$ B L D b (

Luca’s Mediterranean Café

MEDITERRANEAN 10 Central Sq., Keene; (603) 358-3335; lucascafe. com; $$–$$$ L D (

Nicola’s Trattoria

ITALIAN 51 Railroad St., Keene; (603) 355-5242; Facebook; $$$–$$$$ D

The Old Courthouse

NEW AMERICAN 30 Main St., Newport; (603) 863-8360;; $$–$$$ L D b (

Pearl Restaurant & Oyster Bar

ASIAN 1 Jaffrey Rd., Peterbrough; (603) 924-5225; $$–$$$ D (

Pickity Place

LUNCH 248 Nutting Hill Rd., Mason; (603) 878-1151;

Base Camp Café

NEPALESE 3 Lebanon St., Hanover; (603) 643-2007; basecampcafenh. com; $-$$ L D

Bistro Nouveau

AMERICAN The Center at Eastman, 6 Clubhouse Lane, Grantham; (603) 863-8000;; $–$$$$ L D (

Candela Tapas Lounge

TAPAS 15 Lebanon St., Hanover; (603) 277-9094;; $$-$$$ D (

Canoe Club Bistro

AMERICAN 27 South Main St., Hanover; (603) 643-9660; canoeclub. us; $–$$ L D (

Cataleya's Caribbean Bar & Grill

CARIBBEAN 420 Main St., New London; (603) 526-6600; Facebook; $-$$ L D

Flying Goose Brew Pub H

BREW PUB 40 Andover Rd., New London; (603) 526-6899;; $–$$ L D

Latham House Tavern

TAVERN 9 Main St., Lyme; (603) 795-9995;; $–$$ L D

Lou’s Restaurant H

AMERICAN 30 South Main St., Hanover; (603) 643-3321;; $-$$ B L D

Lui Lui H

ITALIAN 259 Daniel Webster Hwy., Nashua; (603) 888-2588; 8 Glen Rd., West Lebanon; (603) 298-7070;; $-$$ L D

Market Table

FARM-TO-TABLE 44 Main St., Hanover; (603) 676-7996;; $–$$ B L D b

Millstone at 74 Main

AMERICAN 74 Newport Rd., New



London; (603) 526-4201;; $–$$ L D b

Phnom Penh Sandwich Station H

Rte. 2, Gorham; (603) 466-5330;; $$–$$$ L D (

The Little Grille H

VIETNAMESE 1 High St., Lebanon; (603) 678-8179;; $-$$ L D

AMERICAN/INTERNATIONAL 62 Cottage St., Littleton; (603) 444-0395;; $–$$ L D

Revolution Cantina

Margarita Grill

LATIN AMERICAN/MEXICAN 38 Opera House Sq., Claremont; (603) 5046310; revolutioncantina.; $-$$ L D b

MEXICAN Rte. 302, Glen; (603) 3836556;; $–$$ L D

Stella’s Italian Kitchen

ITALIAN 5 Main St., Lyme; (603) 7954302;; $–$$ L D

IRISH PUB 3002 White Mountain Hwy., North Conway; (603) 356-7005;; $–$$ L D (


Moat Mountain Smokehouse

BREW PUB 3378 White Mountain Hwy., North Conway; (603) 356-6381;; $–$$ L D (

Sunshine Cookshop H

One Love Brewery

Taverne on the Square

AMERICAN 2 Pleasant St., Claremont; (603) 287-4416; claremonttaverne. com; $–$$$ L D

Tuk Tuk Thai Cuisine

THAI 5 S. Main St., Hanover; (603) 2779192;; $–$$ L D (


AMERICAN 106 Main St., Littleton; (603) 444-7717;; $-$$$ L D (

Biederman’s Deli & Pub

DELI/PUB 83 Main St., Plymouth; (603) 536-3354;; $-$$ L D

Black Cap Grille

BREW PUB 25 South Mountain Dr., Lincoln; (603) 745-7290; onelovebrewery.coml $–$$ L D

Rainbow Grille & Tavern H

AMERICAN/TAVERN 609 Beach Rd., Pittsburg; (603) 538-9556; — Serving a variety of comfort food from seafood to ribs. The tavern serves appetizers, hearth-baked pizzas and sandwiches. $–$$ D (

Red Parka Steakhouse & Pub

STEAKHOUSE 3 Station St., Glen; (603) 383-4344;; $–$$ L D

Rustic River

AMERICAN 5 Main St., North Woodstock; (603) 745-2110;; $-$$ L D

Schilling Beer Co.

BREW PUB 18 Mill St., Littleton; (603) 444-4800; (603) 444-4800;; $-$$ L D PUB Rte. 16 & 16A, Jackson; (603) 3834211;; $-$$ L D

Chang Thai Café H

Shovel Handle Pub

Chef’s Bistro

NEW AMERICAN 2724 White Mountain Hwy., North Conway; (603) 3564747;; $-$$ L D

Covered Bridge Farm Table H

Thompson House Eatery

Tony’s Italian Grille & Pub

AMERICAN/ASIAN 2966 White Mountain Hwy., North Conway; (603) 356-7776;; $–$$ L D

ITALIAN 3674 Rte. 3, Thornton; (603) 745-3133; $$ L D (

Gypsy Café

ITALIAN 45 Seavey St., North Conway; (603) 356-7000;; $$-$$$ D

The Last Chair & Sublime Brewing Co.

AMERICAN/BREW PUB 5 Rte. 25, Plymouth; (603) 238-9077;; $-$$ L D

Libby’s Bistro & SAaLT Pub

NEW AMERICAN 115 Main Street on

603-878-1151 ❧

AMERICAN 13 South Main St., Plymouth; (603) 536-9099;; $-$$ L D

Delaney’s Hole in the Wall

SEAFOOD/AMERICAN 280 East Side Rd., North Conway; (603) 447-3838;; $–$$$ L D (

Menu chAnges Monthly Visit our website to find out what’s cooking this month!

Six Burner Bistro

NEW AMERICAN 193 Main St., Jackson; (603) 383-9341;; $$-$$$ D

Jonathon’s Seafood

Have a Pickity Day!

PUB 357 Black Mountain Rd., Jackson; (603) 383-8916; shovelhandlepub. com; $-$$ L D

FARM-TO-TABLE 57 Blair Rd., Campton; (603) 536-1331; farmtablenh. com; $-$$ L D b

INTERNATIONAL 111 Main St., Lincoln; (603) 745-4395; gypsycaferestaurant. com; $–$$ L D

A mecca for foodees gardeners or anyone looking for relaxation and inspiration.

Shannon Door Pub

AMERICAN 1498 White Mt. Hwy., N. Conway; (603) 356-2225;; $-$$ L D THAI 77 Main St., Littleton; (603) 4448810;; $-$$ L D

The Original Farm-to-Table

May Kelly’s Cottage

AMERICAN 6 Brook Rd., Sunapee; (603) 843-8998; magicfoodsrestaurantgroup. com; $$–$$$ D ( JAMAICAN 145 Pleasant St., Claremont; (603) 543-000; Facebook; $-$$ L D

Pickity Place

Vito Marcello’s Italian Bistro H

Woodstock Inn Station & Brewery H

us this summer ★ ★ Join on our outdoor patio! ★ Farm to Table Gastropub ★ 44 Beers on Tap ★ Happy Hour 3-6pm ★ Lounge/Game Room LINES


Best of the

August 2017




BREWPUB Rte. 3, N. Woodstock; (603) 745-3951;; $–$$ L


Visit for more listings around the state, plus stories about restaurants and local breweries. You can also sign up for T SEACOAS E Rochester Cuisine E-Buzz to receive the latest THSt, FMain NH 603-244-3022 Guidelines food news and happenings. ng di Br

/2017 —

— Updated 08/22 | June 2018


illustration by brad fitzpatrick


Wall Invaders

These unwanted summer guests might be here to stay


t’s June in New Hampshire, a time of warmth and renewal. A time when life returns to the veldt behind your walls. It starts when you’re awakened in the dead of night. Scritch, scratch, scuttle. You close your eyes. It was only a dream. Scritch. Scratch. Scuttle. There it is again. You stare into the darkness. “Scooter!” you hiss at the orange cat curled peacefully on your chest. “Stop it!” He opens one sleepy yellow eye and resettles, pressing his butt against your face in a quiet display of indignation. You push him off and he vanishes into the gloom, casting an angry glance over his shoulder that says, later, I shall poop in the tub. You’re not worried about it right now; your eyelids are just ... too ... heavy ... SCRITCH! SCRATCH! SCUTTLE! Your eyes pop open with a familiar feeling of dread. You lie there. Droplets of sweat bead at your temples and the bathroom nightlight floods the room as Scooter pushes the door open. You know in your heart: There is something in the wall. The question is, what? Mice Cons: They will destroy everything and chew your electric wires, causing their

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BY ADI RULE own horrific, flaming deaths. And possibly yours. Pros: Mice are tiny and adorable. Maybe they will sing songs and sew you a beautiful gown for the ball. Squirrels Cons: See Mice. Also, they will build nests and have squirrel babies in your wall. Pros: They will build nests and have squirrel babies in your wall! Flying squirrels See Squirrels, but add glorious wings. Snakes Pros: Snakes hang out in the wall, but they still like to go outside to eat. They’re less like roommates and more like the friend who crashes at your place when that one band is in town. Cons: Audible slithering in the dark can cause nightmares.

so hungry. They will eat anything. Including the poop left by lazy, vindictive cats. Coyotes Warning! Warning! It was all a ruse! The coyotes have been playing you the whole time. While you were messing around with mice and snakes and cats, the coyotes have set up a thriving society in the space between the guest bedroom and the upstairs bath. Now you have two choices: Shove the occasional prime rib through that hole behind the toilet or learn to live with the howling.

Cats It seemed like a good idea to send Scooter in to hunt down and devour the wall creatures, but never underestimate how lazy and vindictive cats can be. That smell? He’s pooping in the wall now. He’s not coming out. He has reached an understanding with the wall creatures.

Ghosts If the howling isn’t coyotes, it’s probably ghosts. (Or howler monkeys, in which case, tempt them out with a bucket of nuts and top-canopy leaves.) New Hampshire ghosts can be particularly stubborn and territorial. But before you sell the house or set up shop as a Halloween attraction, try speaking loudly about how the spirit of John Stark was spotted in the Colonial next door. Who knows? Your patriotic phantoms may just take off and check it out. And once they’re gone, plug up the holes! NH

Dogs Very small dogs of the chihuahua variety. Now you have barking in addition to the scritch-scratch-scuttling. And they’re

Adi Rule is the author of humor essays, short stories, plays, and YA and middle-grade novels. Her latest YA novel is “The Hidden Twin.”

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