Edition 8 / Exploring the perspective of “what food means to wine,” we celebrate the pioneers – winemakers, chefs, wineries, restaurants – championing the possibilities of inspiring pairings.
IN WINE, WE FIND LIFE
In wine we seek truth, craft and the passion of discovery. In life, we seek to build a community connected by a love for wine and wine culture. We are Maze Row Wine Merchant. We inspire a culture of fine wine discovery, a life that talks of people and their sense of place, of truth, craft and endeavor. An enriching journey, encompassing heritage, terroir, culture and philosophy. Through our curation of wines, stories and immersive experiences, we share the best of life with the adventurers, the bon vivants, the passionate connoisseurs.
Novelist Elif Shafak has spoken of writers and poets as “memory keepers” – custodians of the stories, traditions, and identities of their societies. It’s a phrase that leaps to mind as I review the articles in this edition. When we chose the theme “what food means to wine,” our goal was to challenge our VOICES collective to explore the ways food and wine shape society – how, like a singer and a song, each is dependent on the other for full expression, and can be the threads that weave together the wonders of our world. Within this landscape, we find the memory keepers.
The concept resonates in Tamika R. Francis’ article “Recipes for Change,” where she traces her love of cookbooks to her childhood. On the Caribbean island of her youth, oral history and storytelling shaped how cooking was learned. Reading her words transported me to my own childhood, perched on a stool in my grandma’s kitchen, eager to absorb the secrets of her delicious Persian dishes. As she mixed spices and diced vegetables, she would glance at me and whisper with a wink, “always add a splash of vinegar, and just a sprinkling of cinnamon.” These were hidden recipes passed through stories, time, place. And in that moment, I became the memory keeper.
It made me reflect on how the act of eating and drinking together – the communal sharing of food and wine – forms the heart of our human spirit. At the recent Maze Row New York Wine Experience, Bernardino Sani, head winemaker and CEO of Argiano, shared his father’s teachings on the importance of wine in Italian culture. He spoke passionately about introducing younger generations to the joys of wine – not just how to enjoy it, but how to pair and share it with loved ones. Here, Kathleen Willcox argues that it is this mindset that is instrumental to Italy’s enduring success in food and wine.
Speaking with Stephanie Gallo, chief marketing officer of Gallo, for our profile article, she reflected on her own enduring connection to wine: “What excited me then, and continues to inspire me today, is the way wine brings people together, creating memorable experiences and connections that transcend borders.”
There are countless other culinary adventures within these pages. Jordan Mackay looks at the intimate relationship between food and wine, of how breaking free from traditional pairings liberates sommeliers and chefs to redefine the art of food and wine harmony. Amanda Barnes takes us to Peru, where a culinary renaissance is unfolding, and where gastronomy is an act of preservation and celebration. Meanwhile Sarah H. Bray transports the reader to Mount Etna in Sicily, where hundreds of parcels and wine expressions reflect the unique volcanic terroir. For my part, I travel to Pieropan in Soave, northern Italy, to meet Dario and Andrea, the fourth-generation brothers perfecting the family tradition of crafting innovative, precious wines, all while staying true to the family motto: “The future has an ancient heart.”
In our “At the Bar” series, we turn to Los Angeles, a city just beginning to rebuild after the tragic fires. We extend our heartfelt support to all those affected. This has been, and will continue to be a city with a dynamic food and wine scene, where visionary chefs and sommeliers relentlessly push culinary boundaries. We asked musician and Riesling aficionado John Phillips, aka Skinny Pablo, to take us on a memorable 24-hour journey through his beloved adopted “City of Stars.”
Continuing our series on fine wine investment, Suzanne Denevan-Brown delves into the forces reshaping the wine industry. It’s a fascinating exploration that reveals how new generations may consume less wine, but are opting for higher-quality selections – and seek stories that resonate, are unique, and sincere.
These culinary and winemaking stories aren’t just about flavors or techniques, but the traditions and the people and the histories who keep them alive. In many ways, we are all memory keepers.
We invite you to join us and broaden our lens. Get in touch, and share your view.
Our guiding principle is: In wine, we find life. VOICES editorial director, Nargess Banks
CONTENTS
STARTERS
WELCOME
Working to the theme “what food means to wine,” we continue our mission to view and explore the world of wine through different lenses.
MEET THE COLLECTIVE
The winemakers, sommeliers, educators, writers, connoisseurs, and food and wine lovers with a shared passion for life who helped make this edition.
THE WINES
THE SOAVE BROTHERS
Meet Dario and Andrea Pieropan, the passionate duo following in their father’s footsteps to produce some of Soave’s very best bottles.
WILD ETNA
The sought-after slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily are home to hundreds of parcels and a myriad of wine expressions of the volcanic terroir.
ITALY’S SECRET SAUCE
As Italy overtakes France as the world’s largest wine producer, we take stock of the situation, in search of the country’s recipe for success.
THE BIG PICTURE
Continuing our series on fine wine investment, we sketch out the various forces currently reshaping the wine industry.
DRINKING & DINING
PIONEERS OF THE PLATE
The remarkable group of women chefs and entrepreneurs who continue to bring sustainability and creativity to the table.
CHANGE MAKER
Thanks to her broad vision, Stephanie Gallo, chief marketing officer of Gallo, is redefining how we enjoy and connect over wine.
AT THE BAR: LOS ANGELES
First street food, and now fine dining: the metropolis' visionary chefs and sommeliers keep pushing the boundaries of culinary innovation.
BEYOND THE PAIRING
Breaking free from tradition, sommeliers and chefs are offering innovative food and wine matches, to the delight of their customers.
ARTS & IDEAS
RECIPES FOR CHANGE
Could we translate the powerful storytelling found in highly personal cookbooks and food memoirs to the world of wine?
FINDING INSPIRATION
Gabriel García Márquez, Jimi Hendrix’s “Stone Free”: the cultural moments that helped shape two wine experts’ outlooks.
EMOTIONAL INTELLIGENCE
We celebrate the creative collaborations that help foster authentic connections through art, wine, and a shared sense of community.
MIRACLE ON MAIN STREET
After being hit by the pandemic and the rise of online shopping, the real world is fighting back, with food and drink playing a key role in the revitalization of our cities.
WANDERLUST
SAVOR THE ANDES
Thanks to an extraordinary culinary renaissance, Peru’s chefs are safeguarding the country’s natural and cultural heritage for the future.
MY LOS ANGELES
Music producer and Riesling aficionado John Phillips, aka Skinny Pablo, shares his ideal 24-hours in his adopted city.
WINE TRAILS: VERONA, AND ITS SURROUNDS
We explore a captivating corner of Italy’s Veneto, from the historic Verona and its surrounding vineyards, to the shores of Lake Garda.
THE COLLECTIVE
Stephanie Gallo
Thanks to her broad vision, the chief marketing officer of Gallo is redefining how we enjoy and connect over wine, as she discusses on p52.
Andrea Pieropan
On p10 the celebrated viticulturist reveals why learning from tradition while embracing innovation is at the core of his winegrowing philosophy at Pieropan.
Bernardino Sani
The Argiano winemaker believes Italy’s success is partly due to its micro regions maintaining a distinct culture of food and wine (p56).
Francesco Tornatore
Nestled on the sought-after slopes of Mount Etna, his eponymous winery is part of Sicily’s vibrant wine movement (p30).
Pietro Ratti
On p56, the owner and winemaker at Ratti helps shed light on what makes Italy such an enduring success in wine.
Francesco Allegrini
With the global rise of Italian wine, he introduces his Valpolicella estate’s pinnacle single-vineyard ‘Fieramonte’ Amarone 2018 on p56.
Dario Pieropan
As the head winemaker at Pieropan, he continues his father’s legacy, crafting wines that are elevating Soave to new heights (p10).
Oscar Lorandi
On p64, Cantina Girlan’s chair recalls Jimi Hendrix’s “Stone Free” as a defining inspiration when introducing a new cuvée at the Alto Adige winery.
Sarah H. Bray
On p30 the wine writer visits the fertile slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, where hundreds of parcels produce a myriad of wine expressions of the volcanic terroir.
Laila Gohar
The New York-based food artist produces installations that are fantastical bespoke creations designed to wow, as we discover on p90.
Mashama Bailey
Joining our pioneering female chefs on p46 is the chef and co-owner of The Grey in Savannah, whose cooking is a true masterclass in storytelling.
Tamika R. Francis
The culinary creative argues on p26 that we should translate the powerful storytelling found in highly personal cookbooks and food memoirs to the world of wine.
We are a community of wine producers, food and wine connoisseurs, passionate writers and photographers, artists, bold thinkers and creatives
Virginie Boone
On p46, the writer introduces the remarkable group of women chefs and entrepreneurs who continue to bring sustainability and creativity to the table.
Will Hersey
The lifestyle writer argues that there is still a way to foster authentic connections through art, wine, and a shared sense of community, as we learn on p90.
Phillips (aka
The music producer and Riesling aficionado shares his ideal 24-hours in Los Angeles, confessing what he misses the most is its street tacos (p80).
Kathleen Willcox
As Italy overtakes France as the world’s largest wine producer, the wine writer asks on p56 what is the country’s secret sauce.
John
Skinny Pablo)
THE COLLECTIVE
Arjav Ezekiel
As we discover on p84, his wine program exists on a parallel plane to the co-owner Tracy Malechek’s deliciously seasonal menu at Austin restaurant Birdie’s.
The writer delves deep into Peru’s extraordinary culinary renaissance on p40, and explains how Gabriel García Márquez’s magical realism led her path to wine on p64.
Nikita Malhotra
At Smithereens in New York on p84, co-owner Nikita Malhotra explains why her entire wine list is an exercise in pairing, but not necessarily with dish-by-dish precision in mind.
The architecture and design writer looks at the critical role food and drink play in the revitalization of our cities, as explored on p96.
Virgilio Martínez
She takes us on a culinary trip to her childhood city of Los Angeles on p74, where visionary chefs and sommeliers keep pushing the boundaries of culinary innovation.
The local wine writer leads us through Verona and its surrounds (p100), where world-class vineyards, exceptional cuisine, and cultural landmarks converge.
The chef-restaurateur, and founder of MIL and Lima’s Central, is redefining Peruvian cuisine through innovation and cultural preservation (p40).
Breaking free from tradition, sommeliers and chefs are offering innovative food and wine matches to the delight of their customers, says the food and wine writer on p84.
Jordan Mackay
Edwin Heathcote
Alessandra Piubello
Amanda Barnes MW
Virginia Miller
Roberto Fortunato
From his base in Piedmont, Italy, the wine and lifestyle photographer is in the perfect position to capture Maze Row’s family of producers, as seen in this issue.
Nargess Banks
As VOICES editorial director, she helps shape the publication. For the cover story on p10, she visits Pieropan, and on p52 she meets with Gallo’s chief marketing officer Stephanie Gallo.
Helen Cathcart
On p56, our lifestyle photographer uses her unique lens to shoot both the revered Montalcino winery Argiano and Ratti in Piedmont.
Simon Ward
Artistic, quick-thinking, and insightful, the Spinach Branding design director breathes creativity into the pages of VOICES.
Robert Lawson Passionate about photographing all things drinks-related, he shoots the Maze Row collection of fine wines throughout the publication.
Leigh Banks
Spinach Branding’s co-director loves nothing more than helping businesses reveal their most unique and engaging stories, as seen in VOICES.
Join the VOICES collective. Help us widen our lens. Contact us: Hello@mazerow.com
Suzanne Denevan-Brown
The Maze Row director continues her series on investing in fine wine on p68, as she sketches out the various forces currently reshaping the wine industry.
Adam Thomas
Spinach Branding’s co-director leads a global team dedicated to timeless yet timely design, exemplified in his role as VOICES’ creative director.
In an ultra-modern winery near the medieval town of Soave, Nargess Banks meets Dario and Andrea Pieropan, the brothers perfecting the family tradition of producing innovative and precious organic white wines
THE SOAVE BROTHERS
Previous page, winemaker Dario and viticulturist Andrea Pieropan outside Leonildo Pieropan winery. This page, the medieval town of Soave and its well-preserved castle. Opposite, the facade of the Pieropan winery and visitor center
There’s an inscription mounted on the wall of the reception room at Cantina Leonildo Pieropan that reads: Il futuro ha un cuore antico, which roughly translates to “The future has an ancient heart.” As we step into the foyer – a vast space bathed in natural light streaming through generous windows, offering glorious vistas of the surrounding vineyards and the medieval walls of Soave –Andrea Pieropan reads the inscription aloud. “Only an ancient heart can truly understand the future. This idea is so important to us,” he says earnestly. “Without a history, your actions won’t be genuine. Pieropan represents where tradition meets innovation. We learn from tradition but always look to the future.”
Brothers Dario and Andrea inherited the winery from their father, Leonildo Pieropan, following his passing in 2018 at the age of 71. Opened officially in April 2022 and named in his honor, the winery and visitor center was a labor of love – a project that took several years to complete. Sadly, Leonildo, or Nino as he was known, never saw the building’s completion.
“Our father started the project as the business was growing, and the original building in the heart of Soave could no longer accommodate us,” Andrea explains. The land was
purchased from a grower whose vineyard had been destroyed by a storm. Elderly and ready to retire, he decided to sell. “It was an ideal spot – close to many of our vineyards and right next to the house I moved to when I got married,” he says, smiling as he points to the hill behind the winery. It’s hard to imagine a more idyllic life.
The building was designed with sustainability in mind. This was an unusual step for the region when the project began to take shape in 2015, but for Pieropan, sustainability has always been a core principle. After all, they were the first winery in Soave to commit to organic farming back in 2008. Now, Pieropan is working toward achieving sustainable certification, which Andrea hopes will be granted this year.
Designed by Veronese architect Moreno Zurlo of A.c.M.e. studio (the project earned the firm several awards and significant recognition, as Andrea proudly notes), the 10,000 sq m winery is a striking blend of form and function – visually and conceptually. Nestled into the slopes of a large hill, the building is largely hidden beneath the landscape, with only the front section visible to the public. We almost missed it on the drive over – it’s that subtle.
The design reflects Pieropan’s commitment to ecological thinking. Soil removed during excavation was reused in the surrounding
vineyards. The facade features local materials (brass, Vicenza stone, and Euganean trachyte) selected to weather over time, echoing the aging process of the wines inside. An innovative rainwater collection system nourishes the vineyard and supports the winery, while the underground environment conserves energy through its natural climatic stability.
It took several drafts to arrive at this contemporary design, but one thing was clear: it could not be a mere replica of Pieropan’s former winery, the 14th-century château in the center of Soave. “Our father was a person with enormous sensibility, and he would never accept moving to a place that is simply a bad copy of his original home,” says Andrea, “it had to have a different soul. With its green roof and natural material, it had to melt into its surroundings, and look like it’s always been here. And, like wine, the building will evolve with time. Like wine, this building isn’t static,” he says. “This will be the winery for not just my generation, but the next generations.”
The interior is organized around the production cycle, with careful attention to both function and hygiene. Rooms that require air and light – such as drying, vinification, bottling, laboratory, packaging, and offices – offer views over the valley, while the aging and warehousing
areas are windowless and underground. Production spaces and offices are on a single level, creating a close relationship between the layout and the process. The design is understated yet stylish, finished with natural materials and a focus on color and light harmony.
“We never do things just because they look better or follow trends,” Andrea says as we pass through the bottling area with pretty spectacular views across the vineyards that produce the wines. The production facilities are closed today, but I can already sense the camaraderie such thoughtful architecture fosters among the workers. This attention to detail extends to the cellar’s warm lighting. Designed specifically for the winery, low-energy lights emit a golden hue in the La Rocca room and a reddish tone in the cellar housing the Valpolicella reds. “What better than a wine made in such a beautiful place,” says Andrea, his signature, infectious laugh following.
STRONG FOUNDATIONS
Founded in 1880 by Dr Leonildo Pieropan, the town’s surgeon, the winery’s origins are quite unique. “Our great grandfather left medicine because he couldn’t stand the sight of blood,” Andrea explains. Leonildo had always been passionate about viticulture, purchasing small
plots and experimenting with Soave’s soils and its indigenous grapes. Leonildo’s sons, Gustavo and Fausto, carried on the family business, which was later passed to Gustavo’s only son, Leonildo (Nino). It was Nino who truly revolutionized Pieropan.
A trained viticulturist, Nino took control in 1970 during a pivotal time for the Italian wine industry. As northern producers embraced Teutonic influences and stainless steel, Nino quickly adopted these technologies. At the same time, he refocused the vineyards, selling off less productive plots to concentrate on maximizing ripeness in the best ones.
Nino was instrumental in unlocking Soave’s true potential, achieving a series of industry firsts that would define his legacy. His 1971 Calvarino was the first wine in the region to be crafted using only Italian native-grapes (Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave) from a single vineyard, and aged before release. His 1978 La Rocca was the first oaked expression for Garganega, and under his stewardship, Pieropan led the way to bottling with screw caps. Critically, Nino converted the winery to organic farming.
Andrea smiles proudly as we discuss his father. “Before Calvarino, no one had connected the vineyard to the label – the geographic
location to the bottle,” he tells me, shaking his head to emphasise the critical importance of this wine. Soave wines were being exported in volume to international markets. The quality wasn’t great, nor was the reputation. For Nino to put all his knowledge in one wine was brave. Nino could see Calvarino’s potential, and the bet paid off – in time. During this period Pieropan rose to be one of the most prominent winemakers in the region.
BOTTLING THE TERROIR
The Calvarino cru was the first vineyard parcel to belong to the Pieropan family. Its terraced rows benefit from a south-southwest orientation within a natural amphitheater, creating an ideal microclimate for the vines. The wine is crafted primarily from Garganega, a noble grape with deep historical roots, and Trebbiano di Soave, a variety that has gained prominence more recently. Both thrive in the vineyard’s volcanic soils, which imbue Calvarino with minerality and finesse.
It took several years for the media and market to acclimatize to Soave white wines of this caliber. Exporter Liberty Wines recognized the potential of Calvarino and successfully introduced it to the UK market, effectively communicating its quality and significance.
Soon, word spread, and Calvarino began finding its way to the US and beyond. But it wasn’t an easy journey. Soave wasn’t Burgundy – the concept of high-quality, single-vineyard, terroir-driven wines simply didn’t exist for this region. Italian white wine, in general, was perceived as simple, fresh, and intended for mass consumption. Nino had to build the region’s reputation from the ground up.
“It was like landing on the moon,” Andrea says, chuckling. “My father’s vision was to bring the essence of the terroir into the bottle. His meticulous nature drove him, constantly competing with himself. Calvarino made its debut in 1971. Why then? Because my father had been observing the grapes since 1966 and knew when the land was ready for the perfect bottling. If you truly listen to the terroir, it speaks to you. If you don’t, you miss that subtle, but essential connection,” Andrea reflects.
Meanwhile, La Rocca represents the pinnacle of Pieropan’s artistry. It’s sourced from the La Rocca cru vineyard which sits on the southern slopes of Monte Rocchetta (hence the name), close to the winery and near the medieval castle of Soave. Made exclusively from Garganega, the grapes come from older vines that lend the wine incredible depth and complexity. The terroir here, distinct from the volcanic soils of
Calvarino, features limestone-rich earth that imparts a richer, more nuanced minerality. Unlike the concrete-aged Calvarino, La Rocca undergoes fermentation and aging in oak barrels for a fuller-bodied Soave with a creamy texture and a layered, opulent profile.
We circle back to the beginning. How did Nino decide to barrel-age that first 1978 La Rocca for a year before releasing it, I ask Andrea. He explains that his father recognized the distinct character of the La Rocca vineyard’s grapes, noting the variance in soil and how it shaped the fruit’s profile. And he knew it called for a different approach to vinification than the Calvarino cru.
“Nobody in this region was using oak,” Andrea points out. “It was really revolutionary.” La Rocca was embraced internationally, but in Italy, the market wasn’t quite ready. Andrea reminds me that many hadn’t yet tasted Burgundian or Californian oaked Chardonnays, and their expectations for white wines leaned toward a fresher, simpler style. There was no frame of reference, he says. The shift began in the 1990s, when Italian wine critics took notice, showering both Calvarino and La Rocca with praise and high scores.
We talk about the change in today’s wine drinkers, who increasingly seek complexity in
all wines, not just reds. “People are looking for more depth, more character. They want wines that are interesting. And they’re less focused on international varieties now. They’ve already experienced those,” Andrea notes. “It’s interesting to be part of this moment.”
Dario joins us in the cellar. As Pieropan’s head winemaker, the elder brother continues his father’s legacy, following a traditional yet meticulous approach to his craft. With a soft-spoken demeanor, he walks me through his process, emphasizing that in the cellar, the focus is on perfecting the technique to express the terroir, rather than adjusting practices to accommodate the variations of each vintage. Calvarino is vinified and aged in large, unpainted glass-lined concrete ‘tulipe’ tanks to preserve its fresh, mineral character, and La Rocca in sizable oak barrels ranging from 500 to 2,000 liters.
In the cellar, Dario devotes the same meticulous care to Soave Classico as he does to Calvarino. Yet, he acknowledges that while both wines share the same grape varieties, their distinct expressions stem largely from the unique characteristics of their vineyard soils. “La Rocca, though, is a very different child,” he says, “it has a stronger personality, and you have to manage it carefully in the barrel to keep it from becoming too ripe or too rich.”
“Since I love Calvarino, I’ve probably brought some of its character into La Rocca. My palate has changed, and that’s influenced the wine. It’s natural that you see the winemaker’s touch in a wine”
Dario Pieropan
Previous page, left, Pieropan’s Soave Classico and its pinnacle expression, La Rocca; right, the gates of Soave. This page, as Pieropan’s head winemaker, Dario continues his father’s legacy, following a traditional yet meticulous approach to his craft
Dario admits that Calvarino was once his favorite wine in the collection, but in recent years, he’s gravitated more toward La Rocca. “I think that’s partly because the style has shifted a bit since my father’s time. And since I love Calvarino, I’ve probably brought some of its character into La Rocca. My palate has changed, and that’s influenced the wine,” he says with a shy smile, adding, “It’s natural that you see the winemaker’s touch in a wine.”
GROWING CLEVER
As Pieropan’s head viticulturist, Andrea is experimenting with Pinot “Iskra,” a Piwi variety planted on the small plot atop the winery’s roof. Introduced in 2021, the first bottle is set to debut this September. To me, the decision to plant the future on such a visible site feels symbolic. Andrea, however, assures me there were practical reasons behind the choice. Grass extends to the rooftop’s edges, concealing an innovative Israeli-designed system that captures and filters rainwater. This water is then distributed through carefully engineered slopes to nourish the vineyard and is also stored in tanks for reuse in the winery gardens.
Andrea drives us to the La Rocca vineyard,
flanked by olive groves that produce a small batch of delicate olive oil. He’s using massal selection, where cuttings are chosen from multiple exceptional old vines in the same area, for traits like disease resistance, fruit quality, and climate adaptability. This method preserves genetic diversity, making the vineyard more resilient to climate change, pests, and diseases.
He is also working with rootstock, developed by expert Dr Attilio Scienza, capable of adapting to climate change. “The roots are resistant to heat or drought stress, but also tolerate excess water. Then on top of that, you can have the variety you want – in our case Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave grapes,” he explains. “You have to embrace innovation,” he says, “introduce new ideas, experiment with different vines, work with diverse rootstocks, and explore Piwi varieties. It’s all about securing the winery’s future.”
I get the sense that, much like his father, Andrea views hurdles not as obstacles but as opportunities. “Problems make you less lazy,” he smiles. “If you look closely, there’s always a chance to find something new. For me, challenges push you to innovate and experiment, without changing your soul. Take Piwi, for example – we want to be ready when Garganega
becomes available on the market. That’s why we’re working with Piwi in our own territory, to have hands-on experience rather than just copying ideas from a textbook.”
NEXT GENERATION
Teresita Pieropan, Dario and Andrea’s mother, is in deep conversation with a group of chefs visiting from various restaurants across Italy as we return to the winery. Andrea looks on fondly and says she is deeply involved with the runnings of the visitor center.
Born only a year apart, Dario studied viticulture before winemaking, while Andrea did the very opposite. “We changed directions,” quips Dario. I’m picturing a household where conversations around the dinner table revolve around wine. “Yes, and there is always wine tasting,” says Andrea as if reading my mind. “I like to taste the results of the wine, but winemaking isn’t my passion. I like to work in the vineyard, in nature. For me, the best satisfaction is cultivating the vines to have the most beautiful grapes. Dario, on the other hand, loves the winemaking side.”
Earlier Andrea took me to his childhood home in the heart of medieval Soave. Teresita
“The most important thing for Pieropan wines is to be Pieropan wines; that they keep their own soul and character. The wines should never imitate any other”
Andrea Pieropan
still lives here in a charming quarter of the building, her home opening to the courtyard that leads to the old winery, where Pieropan dries the grapes according to tradition, on bamboo crates in the open air, to make the estate’s Amarone.
We climb up rickety wooden steps, ducking under low ceilings to reach the rooftop. From here, Soave and the surrounding countryside, mostly vineyards, unfold in clear view. The town’s population is just over 7,000, including the neighboring villages. “You get to know everybody here,” smiles Andrea. His wife, a lawyer in Verona, was raised in a nearby village, as was Dario’s. Now in high school, Andrea’s children study in Verona, where he hopes they’ll finish university, even if they eventually join the winery. “I’ve done a good job, but they can do better,” he says. I enquire if this next generation, his and Dario’s children, see themselves immersed in the wondrous world of Pieropan. “Our father never dictated anything to us,” he replies. “But just watching him, we learnt so much.”
For Dario and Andrea, their foremost duty is preserving the wines’ authenticity. “The most important thing for Pieropan wines is to be
Pieropan wines; that they keep their own soul and character,” says Andrea. “The wines should never imitate any other. The best compliment is when someone recognizes the product immediately. That makes me happy, because it means we have a distinct style and a character –and integrity.”
Pieropan doesn’t advertise its winery and visitor center, nor does it work with tour operators so it is almost always through word-ofmouth or wine curiosity that people trek to Soave. We discuss how the consumer is generally drinking less but drinking better quality wine. “In my opinion what this means is that they will look more and more for authenticity, because what’s authentic will continue to attract fine wine drinkers. And by this I mean not so much the technically good wines, but authentic wines.”
Dario is open about his dreams. “I would love to see the new generation, our children, join the winery. I don’t want to put them under pressure but that is my dream. I know what this winery gave to us, to me and Andrea, and I would love for them to have the same possibility. If you enjoy the work as we do, it’s a different kind of work. It’s love-work.”
Opposite, as Pieropan's head viticulturist, Andrea upholds his father’s legacy of innovation and experimentation. Above, grapes for the estate’s Amarone dry traditionally on bamboo crates at the old winery. Next page, designed with sustainability in mind, the 10,000 sq m Leonildo Pieropan winery by architect Moreno Zurlo of A.c.M.e. studio is a striking fusion of form and function
Dario and Andrea enjoy pairing their wines with food and admit they often take charge of the wine list when dining out. They see Pieropan Soave Classico as more of an aperitif – Andrea describes it as the perfect, palate-cleansing wine to enjoy before a meal. In contrast, Calvarino and La Rocca are more complex wines that shine when teamed with food.
The pairing depends on the season: Calvarino complements dishes like porcini or fresh bean risotto and pairs beautifully with asparagus in the spring. Andrea enjoys the wine with Japanese dishes too, and says the purity of ingredients in sashimi and sushi work particularly well with Calvarino. La Rocca, on the other hand, complements white meats such as chicken, a mushroom tagliatelle or risotto. And because it’s such a structured wine, it can handle the spice and saffron found in Indian curries and Asian cuisine.
When asked about the perfect setting to enjoy their wines, Andrea shares: “It’s not about where you are but who you’re with. There’s nothing better than sharing great wine with close friends or family. I never understand people who save a special bottle for a ‘special’ occasion. Any moment can be special. It could be a Monday, friends pop over with a simple pizza, and everyone’s having a great time – that is the moment to open a bottle of La Rocca.”
UNCORKED, A TALE OF TWO VINTAGES
2023 ‘CALVARINO’ SOAVE DOC
The 2023 ‘Calvarino’ Soave blends 70 percent Garganega and 30 percent Trebbiano di Soave from Pieropan’s prime certified organic vineyards in the heart of Soave Classico. After inoculated fermentation, the wine was aged for 12 to 15 months in glass-lined concrete tanks preserving its vibrant freshness and minerality, while enhancing its fragrance and refinement.
2023 ‘LA ROCCA’ SOAVE DOC
The 2023 ‘La Rocca’ Soave is crafted entirely from Garganega, sourced from a single-vineyard situated on the slopes of Monte Rocchetta in Soave Classico. Following inoculated fermentation, it matures for 12 to 15 months in French oak and Slavonian barrels, gaining remarkable depth and structure, and with a unique bouquet.
The 2023 vintage marks the 45th anniversary of ‘La Rocca’ (1978 - 2023). To celebrate, Pieropan has introduced a special “45th Anniversary” label, honoring a wine that has long defied convention with its innovation, refinement, and enduring elegance.
2024 SOAVE CLASSICO DOC
The 2024 harvest was shaped by extreme weather, requiring constant adaptation. A rainy winter left soils heavy, followed by late spring frosts that hit lowland areas. Torrential rains in May and June triggered landslides and cut yields by up to 20 percent, while a scorching summer extended into mid-September. Late-season rains further complicated the Garganega harvest, but despite the challenges, the team completed picking by October 20. Early cellar results show promise, hinting at a vintage of resilience and character.
The pale-yellow 2024 Soave Classico blends Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave from organic vineyards in Soave Classico. Aged on its fine lees in glass-lined concrete tanks for 5 to 9 months, it delivers a dry, refreshing, and well-balanced wine with an elegant finish.
The 2023 growing season was one of contrasts. A mild, dry winter led to a rainy, cold spring, with intense May and June rainfall making vineyard management challenging during budbreak and flowering. Yet abundant water supported strong growth and a generous harvest. Wines from the 2023 vintage reflect the year’s character with vibrant freshness and exceptional minerality, standing out for their fragrance, refinement, and authenticity.
Named “Best Hospitality in Verona” at the Best of Wine Tourism 2025, Villa Cipolla Pieropan offers an intimate retreat where luxury meets winemaking tradition. Following a meticulous restoration, the villa features six uniquely designed rooms, inviting communal spaces, and serene gardens. Guests can explore the vineyards, visit the underground cellar, and enjoy a newly renovated tasting room and retail space.
Opposite, clockwise from top left, Andrea and Dario; a dish of mushroom tagliatelle pairs perfectly with a bottle of La Rocca; Andrea and Dario’s mother, Teresita, still lives in the family home in the historic town of Soave. This page, Pieropan’s latest vintage releases, and Villa Cipolla Pieropan
Pieropan ranks among Italy’s greatest producers of white wines, bottling definitive expressions of Soave Classico.
RECIPES FOR CHANGE
Cookbooks are usually filled with well-researched recipes that are tested with scientific rigor and accuracy, then tailored for the home cook. Recipes are meant to introduce new ingredients, sometimes exacting methodologies and yet, more and more, the cookbooks I have recently purchased or reviewed for my work have put themes like heritage, migration, identity, reclamation, and history at the forefront of publications.
Cookbooks, from my observation, have increasingly leaned on personal stories, bicultural experiences and nostalgia for home countries or the homelands of first and second generations, especially here in the US. Barbara Fairchild, former editor-in-chief of Bon Appétit magazine, recently spoke to this shift in the last 50 years to an audience at the Culinary Historians of Southern California.
KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL
Here’s how I arrived at my cookbook habit. I grew up in the Global South, the Caribbean, in the 1990s – before access to the World Wide Web and the plethora of information that now exists. My island has a long history of African, Asian and European influence in food, passed on in less than linear ways – from different special classes and traditions. Oral history shaped how I learned to cook. There were rarely written recipes. Instead, everything was passed down orally. Measuring was done with your palm, your eyes, and your intuition. You relied on your gut and your senses, as the kitchens I accessed were far less equipped with tools and electronic gadgets. You learned by watching first, then by doing. You were taught why things were done a certain way and were sternly warned about the importance of following specific procedures. You sometimes learned where a recipe came from and its cultural significance, all through
stories and demonstrations. For me, before any culinary training and international travel, the flavors I learned then were my mother tongue.
In my 9th-grade Food & Nutrition class, I encountered my first typewritten recipes. They were photocopies from a notable cookbook. I made a mental note of the author and the book’s title. A few years later, in 2000 to be exact, after my first paycheck, I bought my own copy of The Real Taste of Jamaica by Enid Donaldson (originally published in 1996) for my mom as a Christmas gift. She still has it today.
That’s when I fell in love with cookbooks, especially the headnotes – the few lines of engaging text that offered context to a recipe, much like the stories shared by the matriarchs I had grown up learning from. Cookbooks became a road map to introduce me to the stories of other home cooks, chefs and foodways. Since then, I’ve amassed a vast cookbook collection.
Far from being just a list of instructions, cookbooks are increasingly personal, retracing a variety of experiences and heritages. Can this expanded view of storytelling through food
help develop a new language of wine, asks Tamika R. Francis?
LOST IN TRANSLATION
During this last decade as a by product of working in the culinary world, I peeked into yet another world, that of wine, initially as an outsider with feelings of being an imposter, and later on, after a few liquor store wine tastings and a girls’ trip to the Napa Valley, I adopted the language I heard in the wine world. I made references to notes of oak and stone fruit, and dryness, trying desperately to find my place in a tradition that I barely understood, in a space in which I had way less language and experience to truly appreciate. I often ponder if wine could be paired with goat meat?
I enjoy wine, like many in the culinary field, yet my understanding of wine would be considered basic and bordering non-existent. At least until I sought out knowledge and connected with colleagues such as Alice Achayo, of The Wine Linguist. Through her work expanding the language of wine, Alice helped me with initial (re)accessing my first food language, the one
I developed many years ago on that Caribbean island, the palate I refined as the observer in the kitchen, but now in the context of wine.
For the first time, I understood my own preferred flavor profiles, and confidently proclaimed my favorite stone fruit as mango, not peach. My wish is that the language of wine, much like the evolution of food literature in the last two decades, can move beyond technical jargon and varieties, tapping into culture, heritage, and identity to enrich its narrative – offering a space for my bicultural, immigrant experience, and welcoming more culinarians and home cooks into wine. These lessons from food literature can serve as a blueprint for the wine world to expand, making room for more inclusive stories of flavor and tradition.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
The evolving focus of food literature and cookbooks offers a promising model for wine education and communication. I offer some insight
from two notable cookbooks, both published in 2024, whose authors I had the honor of meeting on respective legs of their cookbook tours in Boston, Massachusetts.
My first example of a body of work that leans heavily into identity and personal reflection, forging emotional ties through memoir is Hetty Lui McKinnon’s Tenderheart: A Cookbook About Vegetables and Unbreakable Family Bonds, a remarkable culinary and literary presentation. The book opens with a poignant quote from Francis Weller’s The Wild Edge of Sorrow, anchoring the narrative in themes of grief and love. This sets the stage for a celebration of vegetables that is as much about their culinary diversity as it is a deeply personal tribute to McKinnon’s late father, Wai Keung Lai. Her father, who worked in Sydney’s wholesale fruit and vegetable markets for decades, profoundly influenced McKinnon’s appreciation for fresh produce and the stories they carry.
The 500-plus-page book, organized alphabetically, is a guide to vegetable cooking and a heartfelt memoir. McKinnon’s recipes are deeply rooted in her cultural and familial experiences, showcasing her ability to weave personal history into universally appealing dishes. The book ends with a note on Ching Ming, a festival honoring ancestors, and the role of culinary rituals in processing loss, tying together its themes of remembrance and connection. What if wine education leaned into personal connection to the occasion, ritual or celebration at which wine might be served, and centered the memory like Lui’s Tenderheart?
Another of my favorite titles, When Southern Women Cook: History, Lore, and 300 Recipes by Toni Tipton Martin and Morgan Bolling, explores Southern cuisine as more than just a collection of recipes, but an embrace of the region’s rich cultural, historical, and emotional identity, with contributions from over 70 writers. The recipes are contextualized and some modernized through the rigor of America’s Test
Kitchen. However, the most noteworthy reference from Morgan, that I have since given deep thought, is the idea that “the South is not just a place, it’s more of a feeling.” It sets the tone for understanding how the book transcends traditional notions of a cookbook and geographical place.
Toni and Morgan’s work weaves a nuanced narrative about the South as a terroir of sorts and not just of geography, but of identity and lived experience. As a foreign-born American, that reference has opened up a curiosity into the foodways of both the geographical south of the Mason-Dixon line, but also a reclamation of Southern foodways that are often at the mercy of stereotypes. This idea mirrors the way terroir in wine extends beyond soil to encompass the influence of people, traditions, and time. Here, recipes and foodways become the lens for demonstrating how the South’s intangible way of life shapes its tangible flavors.
Food and wine, like language and other elements of culture, are not static; they evolve.
Just as cookbooks have shifted from being simple “how to’s” to vibrant insight into culture and heritage, wine communication can also lean into this nuanced storytelling. Whether it’s adding in the personal, the emotional, and the rituals of consumption, it can invite a broader and more diverse audience to find their place at the (wine) table.
When I seek out a wine selection now, it’s not just about mouthfeel or acidity – it’s about the memory of mangoes and my Caribbean summers, the people I prepared those first meals with, and the richness of finding a bridge between the familiar (home) and the new (home). I think the opportunity in food and wine lies not just in mastering technical jargon but in reclaiming and sharing the unique languages of our lives and peeking into that of others.
Tamika R. Francis is the founder of Food & Folklore, a company that pays homage to underrepresented global food traditions.
“My
wish is that the language of wine, much like the evolution of food literature in the last two decades, can move beyond technical jargon and varieties, tapping into culture, heritage, and identity to enrich its narrative”
Sarah H. Bray explores the fertile slopes of Mount Etna, a sought-after terroir renowned for its hundreds of parcels producing an amazing variety of wine expressions
WILD ETNA
“Adjacent parcels are at times wildly different as they effectively come from different epochs of geological history”
Previous page and opposite, with deep roots in Castiglione di Sicilia, the Tornatore family planted vineyards in Etna DOC’s prime contrade. In the early 1990s, Francesco Tornatore expanded to the northern slope of the volcano, starting wine production in 2012
Black earth rises precipitously from the Ionian Sea to the 3,357-meter peak of Mount Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano. Its summit craters dominate the skyline, often puffing smoke like a Carrollian caterpillar, or spewing veins of lava suspended in the night sky. For centuries, winemaking here has been part of the island’s heritage, but over the last 30 years, there’s been a revolution in quality, and demand for the wines of Mount Etna has exploded. This revival has transformed the region from a backdrop for Greek odysseys to celebrated terroir, with producers focused on defining the differences of this dramatic land.
Etna is a composite volcano sitting at a convergence zone where the African and Eurasian tectonic plates collide, increasing pressure until the subterranean magma erupts through various breaks in the earth’s crust as lava, ash, rock, or gas. These flows offer a dramatically variegated terrain on which to grow grapes with vastly different, almost extreme variations following changes in elevation and soil compositions. Adjacent parcels are at times wildly different as they effectively come from different epochs of geological history.
These areas on the mountain are divided into territories called contrade, which have been transformed into a sort of appellation system on the volcano. The existing 133 contrade of the Etna DOC are centered around 11 main municipalities that form a backwards-C from the northeast near Randazzo to Milo in the east, then back around to Biancavilla in the southwest, changing in elevation as the appellation curves around the mountain.
CRATER TO CRATE
With 41 contrade under its jurisdiction, Castiglione di Sicilia is the heart of Etna’s northern winegrowing area. The town itself dates to medieval times, with a strategic position on a hilltop above the Alcantara river. The Tornatore family has a deep connection to this town and, at the end of the 1800s and start of the 1900s, helped draw up the lines for the contrade. Giuseppe Tornatore, who today runs their estate with his father Francesco, notes, “this gave to my family a great advantage in choosing to plant vineyards in the best contrade,” which today extends between 400-900 meters a.s.l. When the DOC was formed in 1968, their lands sat squarely within its heart, where the
grapes could always reach maturity. In the early 1990s, Francesco purchased other land within the same zone on Etna’s northern slope, and they began to produce wines from their lands beginning in 2012. Two of Tornatore’s single vineyard wines, Pietrarizzo Etna Rosso and Trimarchisa Etna Rosso, are red wines from nearby contrade, both made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. Despite their proximity, one is linear and taut, the other richly spiced –clearly illustrating how soil and microclimates create varying expressions.
Nearby, a curious little Byzantine ruin sits in the contrada Sciambro at 500 meters a.s.l., closer to the Alcantara river gorge than to the summit craters, a stone’s throw from contrada Trimarchisa. Locally called the “Cuba,” the small chapel of Santa Domenica lies adjacent to old alberello-trained vines of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, which since 2017 have been the heart of Giulia Monteleone’s eponymous wine. She observes that the “characteristics of this terroir are tied to the clay-limestone present in the property, as well as to the large diurnal shifts. The area is one of the coldest on the northern side, while the temperatures are notably high during the day. It’s also a very
Previous page, Etna is a composite volcano at the junction of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates. This page, wines from Giulia Monteleone’s eponymous winery showcase the area’s volcanic soils and limestone substrata. Opposite, launched in 2020 on Etna’s eastern terraces, Maugeri, run by sisters Carla, Michela, and Paola, focuses on Carricante, producing wines with distinct expressions of the same grape
windy zone, given its location in the Alcantara valley.” The wine is evocative with great depth and concentration, revealing another expression of this area where volcanic soils mix with the limestone substrata.
To the east, the DOC rises in elevation around the town of Milo, home to eight contrade and the Etna Bianco Superiore DOC. This area is rainier, with full Mediterranean sun in the morning before it slides behind the mountain; it’s prized for its mineral-rich soils. Maugeri is a newer project on these eastern terraces. Their estate across the contrade of Volpare and Praino has been in the family’s hands for many decades, but it’s only the current generation of three sisters – Carla, Michela, and Paola, who also run the chic Zash hotel at the foot of the volcano – that has reinvested in the vines and the land to launch this project in 2020, predominantly focused on Carricante.
Their ‘Frontemare’ Contrada Praino Etna Bianco Superiore, which means “facing the sea,” is saline and focused, while their ‘Frontebosco’ Contrada Volpare Etna Bianco Superiore is softer and creamier, with a broad mid-palate, not least because the parcel is protected by the woodlands from which it takes its name. These
sites are within each other’s sight lines, both at 700 meters a.s.l., split only by a small canyon, and yet differ greatly in their expression of the same grape.
The DOC finally curves around the southern slope toward Santa Maria di Licodia, a warmer, drier, protected microclimate. Here, Antonio and Salvino Benanti, the second generation to helm the estate, have planted Carricante in its sole contrada, known for its high elevation, abundant sunshine, and low rainfall, releasing a Contrada Cavaliere Etna Bianco. “Very high elevation vineyards such as ours in Contrada Cavaliere (950 m a.s.l.) also assure an extremely significant diurnal range. As a result, the wines here tend to be riper and rich, while retaining very high acidity. Carricante wines from Milo, on the other hand, usually display higher finesse, salinity, and longevity,” notes Salvino. The terroir is quite distinctive from Milo, the source of their benchmark ‘Pietra Marina’ Etna Bianco Superiore, but the Carricante here produces an equally compelling wine: textural, broad, and firm, showcasing yet another side of Etna. Each of these producers is part of this evolving story of Mount Etna, and the increased production of contrada wines is quickly revealing
the nuances of this unique growing environment. This exploration of the elevation, soil, and microclimates has helped Etna transform from a forgotten backdrop to one of Italy’s most sought-after wine regions in just a few short decades. As the region continues to grow in prominence, its range of single-vineyard wines shows the immense potential of a land where tradition meets innovation, as it continues to erupt with new producers and ideas as frequently as the volcano itself.
SIGN
UP
TO VOICES
the publication for Maze Row:
Stay informed with industry news, reviews and interviews. Receive regular updates on new vintage releases. Gain member-only invitations to special events and tastings.
With premier vineyards on Mount Etna’s northern slopes, Tornatore makes wines of grace and depth from native varieties.
SAVOR THE ANDES
Below, Cleto Quisipaucar’s foraging expedition embodies MIL’s food philosophy and immerses guests in Peru’s rich natural heritage. Opposite, MIL head chef Luis Valderrama and restaurant founder Virgilio Martínez, with MIL in the distance
Amanda
Barnes explores Peru’s extraordinary culinary renaissance, where foraging for indigenous ingredients, and innovative gastronomy and winemaking, are safeguarding its natural and cultural heritage for the future
As I follow Cleto Quisipaucar, an elder from a nearby village, I realize he is guiding me on more than a foraging expedition – it is a journey into Peru’s rich natural heritage. Here, distances are described not in miles but in minutes: Cleto’s home lies precisely 37 minutes away by foot. Draped over his shoulder is a colorful, hand-stitched blanket, cleverly fashioned into a satchel. From its folds, he retrieves a small pair of secateurs and stops before a dry, unassuming bush.
It is winter in the Sacred Valley. The Andes stretch out around us, their jagged peaks softened by winter’s pale light and painted in cool mineral tones of purple, blue, and grey. The land appears stark and barren to my untrained eye, but Cleto sees abundance. Within the brittle branches of the bush, he discovers a vivid orange tumbo fruit (also known as banana passionfruit). Cracking it open, he hands it to me, and I suck on the tart yet sweet flesh, its flavors reminiscent of passionfruit and pear.
Cleto moves on, gathering herbs and roots whose names elude me, urging me to taste leaves and inhale aromas that introduce me to an entirely new world of flavors. This is no mere walk; it is an immersion into MIL’s philosophy of foraging and rediscovering the hidden culinary riches of Peru’s Andes.
MIL, perched 3,500 meters above sea level overlooking ancient Incan agricultural laboratories of Moray, is no ordinary restaurant – it is a hub of culinary and scientific exploration. Created by renowned chef Virgilio Martínez, MIL and his flagship, Central in Lima, redefine Peruvian cuisine by merging innovation with cultural preservation. Guests embark on a journey through Peru’s natural bounty, as chefs and scientists rediscover native ingredients, revive ancient culinary techniques, and push the boundaries of modern gastronomy.
At the core of Peru’s gastronomic renaissance are chefs like Martínez and his peers – Pía León, Diego Muñoz, Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura, Jorge Muñoz Castro, and others –who champion the country’s native biodiversity. Together, they have forged a culinary movement
that puts indigenous ingredients at the forefront, challenging diners to see, taste, and value Peru’s unique heritage.
Peru is a land of extremes: from the dense Amazon jungle and lofty Andes mountains to the arid Altiplano plateau and the bracing Pacific coastline. This geographical diversity has fostered unparalleled biodiversity. The country is home to over 5,000 varieties of potatoes, countless tubers like oca and mashua, and grains like quinoa, which itself boasts thousands of varieties. Corn, too, exists in a staggering array of colors and sizes, and each variety is interpreted differently on the tables of Peru’s leading chefs.
At Kjolle in Lima, León’s Many Tubers signature dish celebrates the humble tuber, transforming it into a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. At MIL, the Corn Diversity dish pays homage to maize in all its forms. At Mauka in Cusco, Grains from the Andean Plateau brings together tiny pearls of kiwicha and kañiwa in a delicate interplay of fine textures. These dishes are more than culinary masterpieces: they are acts of preservation and celebration, ensuring these ingredients endure for generations to come.
WINES REIMAGINED
Peru’s culinary revival is also transforming its wine industry. While Peruvian wine has a history stretching back 500 years, it has largely been overshadowed by the production of pisco, the country's renowned white grape brandy. Today, however, a wine renaissance is underway, inspired by the gastronomy movement. Producers including Pepe Moquillaza, Bodega Murga, and others are reclaiming ancient vines and native Criolla grape varieties. These wines, with their saline tang and bold character, are a perfect match for Peru’s layered and complex cuisine.
Liquid innovation is flourishing beyond traditional wine. At culinary laboratory Mater, Martínez’s team has created a plethora of fermented corn and cacao beverages, while Destilería Andina crafts spirits from native botanicals and local sugarcane. Perhaps the most groundbreaking of all though is Manuel Choqque’s Oxalis “wines,” made from high-altitude oca tubers. By fermenting ocas, Choqque produces elegant white, red, rosé, and orange “oca wines,” redefining possibilities in winemaking.
This movement is about more than gastronomy. It is a lifeline for Peru’s remote farming communities, many of which have struggled under the pressures of modern monoculture farming. By creating demand for native ingredients, Peru’s chefs are restoring endangered food supply chains, revitalising biodiversity, and ensuring ancestral knowledge is passed down.
Foraging with locals like Cleto is an act of preservation. Knowledge of native plants and their uses has long been transmitted orally, at risk of disappearing with each passing generation. Working with MIL, Cleto has been able to share his wisdom, teach his family, and reconnect with traditions that were nearly lost.
As we pause at the terraced ruins of Moray, Cleto pours out a ceremonial drink of homemade chicha to honour Pachamama, mother earth. This act of gratitude feels fitting. After all, it is the earth – and its rich tapestry of life – that sustains this entire movement. Through its kitchens and cellars, Peru is not only sharing its bounty with the world but also ensuring that its natural and cultural heritage endures.
This page, MIL and Tubérculos Nativo, a dish from the restaurant’s inventive menu. Opposite, Cleto Quisipaucar finds abundance in the Sacred Valley, gathering herbs, leaves and roots that offer a new world of flavors
MIL and Virgilio Martínez’s flagship, Central in Lima, redefine Peruvian cuisine by blending innovation with cultural preservation. Dishes include (from top)
Andean Grains, Purple Corn, and Andean Forest. Right, chefs like Pía León are central to Peru’s gastronomic renaissance
“Through its kitchens and cellars, Peru is not only sharing its bounty with the world but also ensuring that its natural and cultural heritage endures”
PERU UNPACKED
Amanda Barnes, Master of Wine and author of the awardwinning book The South America Wine Guide, shares her Little Black Book of Peru
TAKE THE TRAIN TO MACHU PICCHU
There’s no better way to visit the ancient citadel than on the Hiram Bingham, a luxury train offering silver service and live music as you wind up the picturesque Andean tracks.
TASTE THROUGH PERU’S WINES
Dive into Peru’s wine scene in Lima in one of the many wine bars or restaurants. My top wine spot at the moment is Cordial in Barranco.
CAFÉ HOP IN CUSCO
Cusco city has lots of hidden nooks to catch your breath (and you’ll need to at this altitude!) and get a good coffee. Three Monkeys is my ‘go-to’ specialty coffee bar, and the monastery courtyard of Oqre is pretty special for coffee or Sunday brunch.
EXPLORE BARRANCO
My favorite place to stay in Lima is Villa Barranco, a boutique hotel filled with character and the ideal location to explore Barranco, one of the capital’s most charming neighborhoods.
INDULGE IN LIMA’S TOP RESTAURANTS
You cannot leave Peru without eating at some of the best spots in the city. Maido, Kjolle and Central should be at the top of your list for fine-dining, Mérito and Contraste for something equally as delicious but more laid back.
From top, embark on an archaeological journey aboard the luxurious Hiram Bingham train to Machu Picchu, wander through the historic streets of Cusco, and indulge in Peru’s vibrant culinary scene at acclaimed restaurants like Kjolle
cultivating biodiversity to pioneering farm-to-table
philosophy, this remarkable group of multigenerational women chefs and entrepreneurs are reshaping how we think about food, writes Virginie Boone
What does it take to not only be exceptional at what you do, but to inspire generations beyond you, to lead the way in new and wondrous ways of thinking about food? Few succeed in forging new paths, pushing past the myriad of challenges strewn in the way of even moderate success, let alone in achieving global influence.
This group of multigenerational women from around the world may not have originally set out to redefine how we eat, but through the course of their creativity and perseverance, they have. Through the restaurants and culinary businesses they have established, run and reconsidered, they challenge convention and push the boundaries of what’s possible, rewarding us with their delicious, artistic and mindful creations along the way.
Pioneering chefs past, present and future. Opposite, Pía León. This page, clockwise from above, Hélène Darroze, Alice Waters and Daniela Soto-Innes
VITAL INGREDIENTS
ALICE
WALTERS
Growing up in New Jersey in the 1950s, chef, restaurateur and author Alice Waters would not seem a likely candidate to lead America’s modern farm-to-table movement – an ethos she embraced as founder of restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. But an innate sense of food and cooking led her to such heights.
“People want to know how I came to open a restaurant at 27 years old,” she wrote in her 2017 memoir, Coming to My Senses: The Making of a Counterculture Cook. “I never went to culinary school, I never cooked professionally. Why a restaurant? Why this kind of restaurant? Why this kind of cooking? How did I have the courage to open it? And the truth is, I’d never really thought about it deeply until now.”
From the victory gardens her parents grew to her travels in France, she came to prioritize the purity of ingredients over culinary technique, describing her cooking as, “a lot about aliveness, a lot about color, the smell of things, the look... I’m listening to what the farmer has to say about what’s going on in the fields. I think we forget sometimes that food is alive and that we have to follow that intuition and treat food as a living thing.”
As global ambassador of the farm-to-table philosophy, organic and regenerative farming, and the preservation of heirloom varieties of fruits, vegetables and animals, Waters founded the Edible Schoolyard Project in 1995 to teach young children about the values of healthy eating, and penned the 2021 title, We Are What We Eat: A Slow Food Manifesto, a “declaration of action against fast food values.”
GENEROUS CLASSICS
NADIA SANTINI
Cooking near the birthplace of Slow Food (the movement originated in Rome in 1986), Nadia Santini is the three Michelin-star chef of Dal Pescatore in Lombardy, considered one of Europe’ finest restaurants. Her husband Antonio Santini’s parents owned Dal Pescatore when they married, but it was on their honeymoon in France that she discovered haute cuisine.
Santini learned to cook from her husband’s mother and grandmother. She combines classic dishes with friendly, generous Italian-style cooking, finding further inspiration in the seasons. With four generations of the family working together, the restaurant’s esteemed wine collection is managed by Nadia’s son Alberto, Dal Pescatore’s head sommelier.
Given a third Michelin star in 1996, Santini is the first female chef in Italy to ever be awarded three Michelin stars. She was named “World’s Best Female Chef” by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2013.
She told Italy Magazine the following year that she believed the key to her success was, “persistence, equilibrium and honesty in what I do”. She also noted her belief in what the earth provides. “I grew up in the country and have spent many years living here,” she said. “This gives you the chance to know, understand and watch how the animals are bred and the crops cultivated. This is really the knowledge at the core of a chef’s work. It’s important to have a wide knowledge of the entire food chain – from the farm to the fork.”
EMOTION OVER TECHNIQUE
HÉLÈNE DARROZE
A Chevalier of the French Legion of Honour and Top Chef star, French-born Hélène Darroze has earned a total of six Michelin stars across three restaurants: two for Marsan par Hélène Darroze in Paris, one for Hélène Darroze à Villa La Coste in Provence, and three for The Connaught in London, where she takes inspiration from regional farmers, makers and growers to source seasonal produce for her dishes.
A fourth-generation chef whose family’s culinary roots reach back to 1895, Darroze grew up in Les Landes in southwestern France in her family’s restaurant (her mother told her she understood how to taste food before she could walk) and graduated from university with a business degree before working for famed chef Alain Ducasse.
Darroze was the inspiration for the character Colette Tatou in Ratatouille (“the toughest cook in the kitchen”). Influenced by her emotions, she wants guests to “always feel as though they are in my home,” and while Darroze does not claim to have revolutionized French gastronomy, “as I am one of the first women in this age of the industry to lead a kitchen, I feel I brought a more sensitive cuisine to the global stage, led by emotion rather than technique,” she says.
STORY AND SOUL
MASHAMA BAILEY
Her cooking is a masterclass in storytelling, a dialogue between past and present that reimagines Southern cuisine with depth and precision. As executive chef and co-owner of The Grey, she has transformed a former Greyhound bus station into one of Savannah, Georgia’s most compelling dining destinations. Her accolades speak volumes – James Beard’s “Best Chef: Southeast” in 2019, followed by the groundbreaking honor of “Outstanding Chef” in 2022, the first Black woman to receive the award. Yet, it’s her approach to “Port City Southern” cuisine – deeply rooted in place, memory, and seasonality – that continues to push the conversation forward, shaping the future of American food.
FUTURE PIONEERS
JANELLE MAIOCCO, PÍA LEÓN, DANIELA SOTO-INNES
A trained chef and instructor, Janelle Maiocco launched her second startup, Barn2Door, after her sons were out of high school, driven by the desire to help small farms survive and thrive, connecting chefs and farmers across the US at the back end of the restaurant supply chain. Maiocco is particularly keen on helping farmers devoted to biodiversity and building healthy ecosystems through heirloom breeds and seeds.
Meanwhile in Peru, a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Peru, award-winning chef Pía León founded Kjolle in Lima to highlight Peru’s diverse flavors and ingredients, inspired by the food memories of her childhood. Crowned “World’s Best Female Chef” in 2021, she is regarded as one of South America’s most influential and important chefs, celebrated for her work with local farmers and sustainable farming practices, noting, “Peru is a very rich and diverse country and taking advantage of resources requires taking into account ecological, biological, geographical and social factors.”
Then in North America, the Mexico City-native, Daniela Soto-Innes, learned to cook from the women in her family –her grandmother managed a bakery, where she spent much of her childhood watching and learning. Moving to Houston in high school, by 18 Soto-Innes was studying at Le Cordon Bleu in Austin, earning her first sous-chef job at 20.
While working in Mexico City, Pujol chef Enrique Olvera tapped Soto-Innes to open Cosme – and later Atla – in New York. Never forgetting what her father told her, “Talent should not be measured by gender,” at age 25 she won the James Beard Award for “Emerging Chef,” becoming the youngest “World’s Best Female Chef” soon after. In 2020 The New York Times called her “One of the most exciting chefs working today,” noting: “She reimagined both Mexican cuisine and how professional kitchens are run.” In 2023, Soto-Innes left it all to open Rubra in Nayarit, her debut restaurant in her home country.
This page, clockwise from top left, a Wagyu beef dish with XO sauce at the Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze at The Connaught in London, award-winning chef Pía León at Kjolle in Lima, and James Beard 2022 “Outstanding Chef” Mashama Bailey. Opposite, global ambassador of the farm-to-table philosophy, chef Alice Waters, at her restaurant, Chez Panisse, in Berkeley, California
“I think we forget sometimes that food is alive and that we have to follow that intuition and treat food as a living thing”
Chef Alice Waters
Above, at Kjolle in Lima, chef Pía León serves duck with nuez de Madre de Dios, a unique nut from the Madre de Dios region of the Amazon rainforest. Opposite, a dish of duck from Sladesdown Farm in Devon, UK, with cime di rapa, Cerignola olives and cedrat; the wood-paneled dining room; and a chocolate desert of Vibrato, from Guatemala and Madagascar, Manni olive oil and Kalamata olive at Hélène Darroze at The Connaught
Stephanie Gallo is helping shape the future of the wine industry. From expanding into ready-todrink beverages to championing diversity and inclusion, she is redefining what it means to enjoy and connect over wine. Nargess Banks meets Gallo’s chief marketing officer
Stephanie Gallo stands at the helm of one of the world’s most influential family-owned wine companies, continuing a legacy that started life in 1933, with her grandfather Ernest and great-uncle Julio. As chief marketing officer, she has been instrumental in guiding Gallo to be a global force with over 100 brands spanning more than 110 countries. Her leadership has infused the company with innovation, from ready-to-drink beverages to digital marketing strategies that speak to today’s consumer.
Stephanie’s vision is also reshaping the cultural landscape of wine. A fierce advocate for diversity and inclusivity, she has championed initiatives to open the industry’s doors to underrepresented communities. During the pandemic, Stephanie launched the ROAR program, offering support to restaurants and local communities in need. More recently, her Offscript initiative is empowering a new wave of winemakers to express their creativity and unique perspectives, furthering her mission to make wine more dynamic and accessible to a broader audience.
Her story is one of purposeful leadership, rooted in respect for tradition, driven by bold innovation, and guided by a belief in wine’s transformative power to connect us all. I spoke with Stephanie to understand how she is shaping the future of the industry while honoring its storied past.
As CMO at Gallo you have continually embraced innovation, be it in expanding into ready-to-drink beverages or through digital marketing channels. You played a key role during the pandemic in initiatives like the ROAR to support restaurants and communities, and you have been a big advocate for diversity and inclusion in the wine industry. What drives you?
I’m really passionate about our company’s purpose. We serve enjoyment in moments that matter. And the reason why I’m really passionate about this is the word “serve.” On the one hand it speaks to the physical act of serving the beverage to consumers. But it also speaks around this whole notion of a producer serving our consumers. It’s much more about the thought of being a servant leader to our consumers. And in order to do that, I am truly passionate that our organization has to reflect what consumers look like today, as well as what they look like tomorrow.
How would you describe this consumer landscape?
In the US, in particular, the next generation of wine consumers is a diverse audience. What I find very fascinating is where the wine category has positioned itself, as an exclusive category, while the next generation of consumers value inclusivity. As an industry, we have to adapt and evolve to their needs. We have to reflect the next generation consumers and their values.
This consumer landscape is exciting and constantly evolving. What insights have stood out to you from your research?
Consumers are telling us what they want. They say they want wine to be easy, they want wine to be fun, they want wine to be accessible, and they want wine to reflect themselves. You know 81 percent of wine consumers, at least in the US, say that their knowledge around wine is at best intermediate to beginner.
That’s fascinating statistics. How can Gallo best align and communicate with this audience?
From a communication point of view, we’re expecting a much higher standard of knowledge which just isn’t there, and communicating to them as if they are experts doesn’t work. I would challenge ourselves to say, are we presenting ourselves as fun? In our communications, are we reflective of how this generation is living their lives, their lifestyles, how they socialize?
I think that if consumers want wine to be easy, we have to reflect that. And yes, if we are being honest with ourselves, we have a lot of work to do. What consumers are pretty much saying is, “I will decide what I like and what I don’t like” – and that’s okay. I get this sense when I read VOICES, and I see that the viewers are smart.
At the recent Maze Row New York Wine Experience, Argiano’s head winemaker and CEO, Bernardino Sani, passionately shared his father’s teachings on the significance of wine in Italian culture. He emphasized the importance of introducing younger consumers to the joys of wine, encouraging them to learn how to enjoy, pair, and share it with family and friends. What are your thoughts on this statement?
Reading through this publication, it’s clear that today’s consumer embraces wine as a symbol of connection – they love that it makes a moment better. Yet, we tell them that in
order to be part of this wine journey, they must obey certain rules. What consumers are really saying is, “Let me be free. Meet me where I am.”
Absolutely. When we we confine this journey to a set of rigid frameworks, we limit its ability to evolve with and reflect the world around us. Am I right in sensing optimism in your voice?
Here’s why I’m optimistic: I believe that whenever an industry, a space, is experiencing headwinds, that is the time when people are more willing to adapt and evolve in order to stay relevant. And so, I think that there is a growing appetite to do things differently in order to stimulate demand for a category.
Your recent initiative, Offscript, gives talented winemakers the freedom to bring their visions to life from grape to glass. Could you share more about this program and what you aim to achieve through it?
Offscript is a wine incubator that allows the next generation of talent to develop wines that they are passionate about. One of the principles that we are driving within our organization is this notion of “intrapreneurship” – of fostering an entrepreneurial culture within our organization. So, a little while ago our luxury group embarked upon a project to see how we can create a wine incubator where we allow our winemakers to present their ideas in terms of what inspires them, and what they like to drink.
And what has the experience been like so far?
I had an opportunity to taste through the wines recently and they are fabulous. It gives me great hope for the future of the wine industry, listening to each of the winemakers present their story, their inspiration, even what inspired them around the package design. It is a really cool project.
Do you see Offscript evolving further to introduce an education platform?
You use the word “education,” but do we need to educate people on drinking beer, for instance? Do we need to educate people on the food that they eat? None have an education platform. And so, even using the word education, are we broadcasting to people that you have to have knowledge in order to participate in that category?
Visiting Italy recently, it is such a great reminder of what a true wine-drinking culture looks like. You can’t tell me those people have been “educated” on what they like or don’t like. Wine is just a part of the culture. It’s there to enhance the meal, the moment, the occasion.
As the granddaughter of the company’s co-founder Ernest Gallo, you’ve grown up and worked within one of the largest wine producers in the world. How has being part of this legacy shaped your perspective on the wine industry, especially in terms of fostering a more expansive and inclusive approach?
To understand the company, you have to go back to the founding story, and the energy around our founders – Ernest and Julio Gallo, who started Gallo Winery 92 years ago. It was during the repeal of Prohibition, and they wanted to transform the US from a beer and whiskey-drinking culture into a wine-drinking culture. They knew that in order to do this, they had to endeavor constantly to win new friends for wine. It was part of what they call the “Gallo Creed.”
The founding fathers were so unapologetic about producing and crafting wines that the American consumer would enjoy, as well as evolving as consumers’ palettes evolved. As an industry we have forgotten that we have to endeavor constantly to win new friends for wine.
That’s a great philosophy, and it seems it continues to drive both the company and you today.
I’m passionate to see how we, as an industry, endeavor constantly to win new friends for wine. And yes it is a challenge. But I do believe that at the heart, when wine is consumed and enjoyed responsibly, it does enhance the occasion and connections.
Am I right in that all of this ties back to your original goal of being more expansive, being more open in how you as a company communicate wine to reach and resonate with diverse audiences?
For us, at the heart of all this is the belief that seeking diversity in all dimensions encourages innovation and creativity. When we talk about diversity of thought and, particularly in this country, economic diversity, wine is losing amongst consumers at the lower socioeconomic spectrum.
Embracing diversity of backgrounds and experiences just makes us better – it makes us more empathetic as a company. Thinking in this way makes us respond to what is going on in the marketplace. It helps us solve problems and challenges in a better way. And if we get this right, then it will be a great competitive advantage for our organization.
Coming from a family so deeply rooted in wine, particularly in the story of wine in the US, did you always know this would be your path as well?
Yes, deep down inside, I knew that I wanted to continue to build upon the foundation that was started by our founders.
What is it about the world of wine that excited you then and continues to inspire you today?
The world of wine has always captivated me with its rich history, diverse cultures, and the profound sense of community it fosters. What excited me then, and continues to inspire me today, is the way wine brings people together, creating memorable experiences and connections that transcend borders.
The dynamic nature of the wine industry also keeps me continually engaged. There’s always something new to learn or explore, whether it’s a rising wine region, innovative sustainable practices, or emerging trends in consumer preferences. The commitment to excellence and the pursuit of innovation within the industry inspire me to push boundaries and strive for continuous improvement. Ultimately, my passion for wine is deeply rooted in the joy it brings to people’s lives. Celebrating special moments, enhancing meals, and simply enjoying wine with friends and family has always resonated with me. This enduring connection is what drives my enthusiasm for the world of wine, both then and now.
And do you have a favorite wine and food pairing you’d like to share with our readers?
My favorite food and wine pairing is anyone that I get to enjoy with my family.
“What I find very fascinating is where the wine category has positioned itself, as an exclusive category, while the next generation of consumers value inclusivity. As an industry, we have to adapt and evolve to their needs. We have to reflect the next generation consumers and their values”
Stephanie Gallo, chief marketing officer at Gallo
Brancaia’s owner and winemaker Barbara Widmer and guests enjoying lunch on the terrace at the winery’s Osteria Brancaia, in the Chianti hills between Florence and Siena in Tuscany
Italy is making bold moves in the global wine industry, surpassing France in wine production and raising the question: what’s the country’s recipe for success? Kathleen Willcox reports
“Younger consumers may want to know more about wine, but don’t have the language to ask about it confidently. We need to focus on finding a new language to communicate wine, traveling to Italy through the plate and glass, focusing on living great moments with family and friends”
Bernardino Sani, Argiano CEO and winemaker
One of my greatest regrets in life is not being Italian. While I haven’t spent my years mourning this, I have been keenly observing and appreciating all the ways Italians – as they are wont to say – simply do it better than everyone else. So when I discovered that Italian vintners, amid an era of general decline in global wine consumption and sales, are thriving in many cases, I can’t say I was surprised. And I was definitely eager to learn more.
A close look at the numbers reveals just how well Italian wines are faring, overall. Exports of wine from Italy have increased 6.3 percent year over year, according to the latest numbers from the Unione Italiana Vini and Vinitaly Observatory (UVO). That growth is especially impressive considering the overall decline in sales. Wholesalers across the US have reported a drop in sales of -6 percent to retailers year-over-year, according to Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America’s latest SipSource data.
As growers in California and France pull out an estimated 40,000 acres and 68,000 acres respectively this year alone, Italy is expanding its footprint in wine in certain auspicious areas. Tuscany, for example, which features 52 PDOs, 11 of which are DOCG and 41 DOC, has approved 1,579 acres worth of new vineyard plantings.
What’s the secret behind their success? As with many Italian phenomena, it is
simultaneously simple and complex, a heady blend of swagger, the embrace of deep authenticity and regional distinction, la dolce vita and, but of course, pasta.
BOTTOM-UP STRATEGY
Much of Italy’s growth is the result of decades of tactical on-the-ground hard work. “Italy’s success in connecting wine with culture has been instrumental in its export achievements,” says Francesco Minetti, CEO of Well Com, a brand-building firm focused on Italian wine and food. Ultimately, he pegs the win to a “bottom-up strategy, which is fundamentally different from the top-down commercial strategies employed by France.”
Going gangbusters in sales in a down market is rooted in an organic rise in demand generated by Italian restaurateurs and chefs abroad, Minetti insists. “They play a critical role in introducing Italian wines as an essential part of the Italian dining experience, linking wines to specific regions and dishes. This connection resonates with consumers, who now see Italian wines not just as beverages but as integral to Italian culture and lifestyle.”
The US has more than 100,000 Italian or Italian-American restaurants, and while many offer wines from other regions, the focus is usually on Italian wines. The popularity, general excellence, and evolution of Italian cuisine has been a boon for winemakers who might otherwise struggle to market obscure-to-Americans
Previous page, Pietro Ratti and his family enjoying an Italian feast at the Ratti winery in Piedmont. Right, Bernardino Sani, winemaker and CEO of Argiano at the Tuscan winery’s hotel and restaurant
varieties and regions without the help of knowledgeable sommeliers prepared to hand-sell wine to dubious customers.
“Americans love to go to Italian restaurants,” says Pietro Ratti, owner and winemaker at Ratti in Barolo. “And the evolution of fine Italian cuisine from spaghetti and meatballs to specialized and regional cuisine has allowed wines from all over the country to perform well. Even in Michelin-star Italian restaurants, the atmosphere is welcoming and fun, which has created an emotional connection with Americans.”
FORGING LINKS
People love visiting Italy so much, tourism has sadly become a problem in some places, to such an extent that Venice has introduced a payment system to discourage travelers during certain high periods. Interestingly, most Americans aren’t heading over to Italy to ride the gondolas or gawk at the Gucci and Giotto. In fact, according to one survey from Coldiretti, an association designed to defend Italian food and culture, as much as 90 percent of American tourists say that food and wine is the main reason they visit Italy, ahead of art and culture (77 percent) and history and archeology (65 percent).
But the desire to visit and explore has paid inestimable dividends for winemakers. “People come to Italy to see the major cities, but unlike many other countries, they also come to see the villages,” says Bernardino Sani, winemaker and
CEO at Argiano in Montalcino. “And because wine and food are so closely linked in our villages, they become part of the experience of visiting. We have different grapes and dishes in each region and village, and exploring that has become a draw in and of itself.”
Italy, Sani reminds me, is actually a younger country than the US, and as such, has many different hyper-localized traditions in food, drinks and culture that evolved in silos over millennia. “Italy wasn’t unified until the late 19th century,” Sani notes. “So every region has a well-preserved and very distinct culture of food, wine and cultural activities.”
The warm welcome American diners typically receive in Italian restaurants at home, Ratti adds, is extended throughout the boot when they arrive in Italy. “Italians and Americans have a lot in common and that helps us connect,” he says. “We are both friendly nations, and enjoy celebrations. And we love Americans because we see them as our rescuers after World War II. We feel as connected to American culture as they feel to our culture. When they are here, we love to welcome them and make them feel comfortable.”
AUTHENTIC AND DIVERSE
Italy’s bottom-up sales approach is underlined by its appellation-focused marketing, which intentionally or not appeals to traditionalists’ desire to explore history, and progressives’ thirst for authenticity and diversity.
“Italian wine has a tailored and multifaceted approach to communication in the US,” says Minetti. “Rather than relying on individual brands, Italy mostly promotes its appellations and regions, treating them as collective brands. The approach resonates deeply with Americans, who value authenticity and cultural heritage.”
Many of the regional programs work one-onone with sommeliers and trade professionals in the US, who then have the knowledge to pass on to diners and shoppers. “They then act as ambassadors, bridging the gap between the vineyard and the dining table,” Minetti says. “It also helps educate US wine enthusiasts on individual wine territories, and emphasizes the distinct characteristics of their wines. We have an unparalleled wealth of indigenous grape varieties, with more than 500 that are officially recognized and many more being rediscovered.”
Educating the American palate on Timorasso from Piedmont and Catarratto from Sicily, and what foods to pair them with, would be virtually impossible without an army of unofficial ambassadors in the country’s thousands of red sauce joints and gilded Tuscan temples.
Ratti estimates that about 60 percent of their wines are sold on-premises in the US.
“Connecting our food to wine is essential,” he admits. “The food needs the wine, and the wine needs the food, because of the balance of acidity and tannin and the flavors. But without the restaurants there explaining the grape varieties
and the labels, it would have been very difficult for us to get out there.”
What’s more, these lesser-known varieties are connecting with younger enthusiasts who are eager to explore grapes their parents may never have considered drinking. In a world where consumption is declining everywhere, Italian winemakers are facing the future with hope and trademark ingenuity.
“Even in Italy, where my grandfather drank every day and was definitely not an alcoholic, things are changing,” Sani says. “Now if you go to the doctor and tell them you have a few glasses of wine a day, they tell you to drink less. So we need to focus on drinking better, and connecting with consumers, especially younger ones, in a less snobbish way.”
So, what about the future? Focusing solely on the hardcore luxury segment isn’t economically sustainable – or particularly joyful. While Italy has enjoyed incredible success in recent years, to continue moving forward, winemakers will need to do what they’ve always done – plus more.
“Younger consumers may want to know more about wine, but don’t have the language to ask about it confidently,” Sani points out. “They also may not have the money to travel extensively. We need to focus on finding a new language to communicate wine, traveling to Italy through the plate and glass, focusing on living great moments with family and friends. It has to be friendly.”
Over six generations, the Allegrini family has become a benchmark producer in Valpolicella, with the single-vineyard Fieramonte standing as the estate’s pinnacle expression.
The 2018 harvest was long, marked by slow ripening and exceptional quality. A rainy spring led to green harvesting in early July to balance the vineyard. Though heavy rains arrived just before harvest, September brought drier conditions and cool nights, which enhanced ripeness and aromatic complexity.
The 2018 Fieramonte blends 45 percent Corvina Veronese, 45 percent Corvinone, and 5 percent each of Rondinella and Oseleta. After inoculated fermentation, the wine was aged for at least 48 months in French oak barriques, imparting remarkable depth and structure.
“Mulled cherries, aniseed, camphor, mossy undergrowth, shiitake mushrooms and dashi. The mid-palate is savory, nourishing and slathered with umami. Aromatic and textural, with the oak and mineral notes providing tension. The finish runs very long and fresh. This is excellent,” writes James Suckling senior editor, Ned Goodwin MW.
96 points James Suckling, 97 points Falstaff
ARGIANO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG 2020
Argiano is one of Montalcino’s oldest winemaking estates, a co-founder of the Consorzio di Brunello di Montalcino, and recognized as a leading producer of the wine.
The 2020 growing season began with a warm winter and minimal but sufficient rainfall. June and July brought ideal conditions, with occasional rain and well-balanced temperatures. Late July and early August saw intense heat, yet the vineyards thrived without experiencing water stress. A late-summer rainfall then ensured a steady, even ripening.
In the cellar, this 100 percent Sangiovese wine underwent spontaneous fermentation before aging for approximately 30 months in Slavonian and French oak barrels.
“The wine is a rich aromatic Brunello with subtle tannins and rich texture. It’s coming from a warm vintage that remind me the 2015 in the style,” says head winemaker Bernardino Sani.
94 points Galloni and Wine Advocate
Opposite, central to the Ratti experience is its culinary offerings at the winery and restaurant in Piedmont, Italy
RATTI BAROLO ‘ROCCHE DELL’ANNUNZIATA’ DOCG 2021
Founded in 1965, Ratti pioneered Barolo’s first regional mapping, shaping Italy’s modern concept of terroir while crafting some of its most revered wines.
The mild, wet winter of 2021, punctuated by snowfall, replenished water reserves. Early frost posed a challenge, but its impact was minimal. Warm spring temperatures in April and May kept fruit set on track, leading to a Nebbiolo harvest that stretched from late September to mid-October. Despite lower yields, the vintage produced structured, age-worthy wines with impressive depth and concentration.
In the cellar, the 100 percent Nebbiolo wine underwent inoculated fermentation before aging for two years in 25 hL Slavonian oak casks.
“Our Rocche dell’Annunziata 2021 is a really excellent wine,” says owner and winemaker Pierto Ratti. “The vintage was very good, able to deliver a complex and refined style of Rocche. It’s a bit tight now, which I personally like because it will make it suitable for a long aging potential.”
96 points James Suckling
One of Montalcino’s most storied estates, Argiano is seeing a new renaissance with winemaker Bernardino Sani’s refined and classical approach.
From the sheer freedom and rebellion conveyed in Jimi Hendrix’s “Stone Free,” to the wondrous magical realism of Gabriel García Márquez, two wine experts share the cultural moments that helped shape their relation with wine
Oscar Lorandi serves as the chair of Cantina Girlan, the historic winery located in Alto Adige, Italy. Under his leadership, the winery has garnered international recognition for its award-winning Pinot Noir and other varietals, while embracing innovation and sustainable practices.
Was there a book, song, poem or a painting which deeply influenced your wine journey?
Definitely music, not only in relation to my journey in the world of wine, but also in my everyday life. I have a deep passion for music. In addition to being an avid listener, I’m also an amateur guitarist and, for some time now, I’ve been learning to play the piano. I listen to all kinds of music, depending on the mood, and sometimes a particular song or melody can directly inspire my work. Music, with its ability to evoke emotions and communicate without words, has been a constant companion throughout both my professional and personal journey.
Can you share a moment or experience where this artistic work connected with your exploration of wine?
There is an anecdote that I remember with particular pleasure, in which a song inspired me to choose a name for a wine. We needed a name for a white wine, a cuvée made from three varieties. It was late at night, and I was driving on the highway in Germany, heading back to Italy. I was listening to Jimi Hendrix, and when the song "Stone Free" started playing, I had an epiphany. In that exact moment, in my dialect, the word stone sounds like stoan (which also means stone) and the perfect name for that cuvée came to me spontaneously.
How did the episode, and your love of music, shape the way you view, craft and approach wine today?
FINDING INSPIRATION
The song "Stone Free" with its message of freedom and breaking away from conventions, has greatly influenced my approach to wine. It has encouraged me not to be limited by predefined patterns and to think in a freer, more creative way. Just like in the song – which talks about freeing oneself from all constraints – in the world of wine, I try to explore new possibilities and create products that reflect my personal, uncompromising vision. Just as in music, authenticity is key in wine, with no fear of daring or experimenting.
In what ways do you think this connection between the arts and wine enriches the experience of one or both?
The connection between art and wine enriches the experience of both, as both have the ability to evoke deep emotions and tell a story. Both have the power to transport you to another world, stimulate the senses, and create an intimate connection with the present moment. Wine becomes more than just a product to taste; it becomes part of a sensory experience that engages both the mind and the heart. Music, like wine, is an art that speaks without words, capable of evoking emotions that enrich and deepen our perception, allowing us to experience every glass with a new awareness.
If you could share your love of music and this particular soundtrack with others in the wine world, what message or inspiration would you hope they take from it?
I would want them to understand the power of freedom and creativity. Just as Jimi Hendrix’s music invites us to break free from constraints and experiment without fear, it is also essential in the world of wine to embrace innovation and authenticity. The message I would like to convey is that wine, like music, should be a free expression of one’s vision, without fear of stepping off the beaten path. Only by doing so can we discover new dimensions and create experiences that are not only sensory but also emotional and personal. The combination of art and wine allows us to live the present deeply, appreciating every single moment.
“Just as Jimi Hendrix’s music invites us to break free from constraints and experiment without fear, it is also essential in the world of wine to embrace innovation and authenticity”
Oscar Lorandi, chair of Cantina Girlan
Previous page, Jimi Hendrix in 1967. Left, Oscar Lorandi at Cantina Girlan in Alto Adige, Italy. Opposite, Amanda Barnes, and Colombian writer Gabriel García Márquez at Cannes Film Festival in 1982
Amanda Barnes MW is a wine writer and author of the awardwinning book The South America Wine Guide. She is a leading authority on the wine regions of South America, where she’s been based since 2009.
Was there a book, a song, a poem or a painting which deeply influenced your wine journey?
My wine journey began very much through literature, not necessarily with one work in particular, but with a combination of many. I fell in love with the idea of traveling through reading, especially the works of Latin America’s magical realism authors.
The words of Gabriel García Márquez and Jorge Luis Borges, in particular, and the images they conjured, haunted my late teens and early twenties. They inspired me to go to South America, where I started my wine career, in search of a land where the real and magical co-exist. I have always been a dreamer, someone who trusts their gut feeling without overthinking. And those books lived in my gut for years. Through them, I believe I discovered the most magical, real thing there is: wine.
How do you feel the literature connected with your exploration of wine, and how you have come to communicate wine? One of García Márquez’s stories that I was really obsessed with was La increíble y triste historia de la cándida Eréndira y de su abuela desalmada (The Incredible and Sad Tale of Innocent Eréndira and her Heartless Grandmother). It is a really dark tale, but it showcases many of his great talents as a writer, evoking images, smells, sensations and emotions in the reader. There’s this constant juxtaposition of gritty reality with beautiful, exotic aromas and textures surrounding what is, in essence, a rather sordid experience. One particular image I adore is that of diamonds growing in oranges. Offering a plan for unexpected freedom.
None of this is directly related to wine. But through reading this, and many other magical realism stories, I have always sought the more magical, perhaps intangible, connection with wine. I have always been drawn to the interplay between gritty reality and the aspirational or dreams. Winemakers and vine growers live with both – what it is and where it comes from, as well as what they want it to become or evoke in others.
We know that we are not actually tasting plums or violets when we sip a Malbec, but if you close your eyes, they are there in the glass. Or how the tanginess of a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc feels like saltiness, transporting you directly to the Pacific Ocean. We can’t explain wine’s connection to places, memories, and flavors, but it exists — it is real.
“Through reading Gabriel García Márquez, and many other magical realism stories, I have always sought the more magical, perhaps intangible, connection with wine”
Amanda Barnes, author
THE BIG PICTURE
Our series has so far explored investment in physical bottles of wine. For this edition, I wanted to explore a broader view of wine investing –investing in the sector through private or publicly traded companies. It felt timely, because there’s been a great deal of negative news coverage about consumption declines in alcohol, and wine specifically. We’ve heard how Gen-Z doesn’t find wine “cool,” and that multiple generational cohorts are moderating their alcohol consumption.
We’ve seen vines being pulled out across California, France and Spain. The current sentiment about wine inside the business is as low as I’ve ever seen it in my 20-plus-year career. Given these headwinds, I thought it would be helpful to take a bigger picture, longer-term view on the idea of investing in wine. Is there value to be found in the category?
Continuing our series on fine wine investment, Suzanne Denevan-Brown takes the long view, looking at how the changing habits of new generations of wine lovers, global influences, and a thirst for high-quality wines are reshaping the industry
78% OF CONSUMERS BELIEVE AMERICANS COULD BENEFIT FROM SLOWING DOWN AND ENJOYING LIFE
STATE OF CONSUMPTION
Although overall consumption volume is decreasing in the US, the percentage of “regular wine drinkers” among legal drinking age adults has stayed stable at near historic highs. As a result, the number of total wine drinkers has grown. Yes, you read that correctly. The number of wine drinkers has increased over the last five years. Those who imbibe wine at least once per month grew about 4 percent to 87 million consumers. In even brighter news, the population of weekly wine drinkers grew 5 percent to 64 million, or 1 point faster than US population growth (see IWSR’s Wine Landscapes – USA, 2024). Wine is definitely not “dead” in the US.
Over the last decade, we have also heard a lot about how Millennials are “killing” wine. In 2015, the reporting in the wine industry was rife with complaints, as Lettie Teague wrote in the Wall Street Journal. The usual storyline was that Millennials weren’t drinking enough, they were gullible because they were interested more in backstories than “terroir,” and they were dim, so wine communication would need to be simplified to emojis to reach this generation. Today, this coveted cohort has emerged as wine’s most involved consumer demographic. Millennials were not being “stupid” when they interrogated the wine category to find authentic stories of growers and makers, nor elementary when using social media to share what they were drinking. Millennials (alongside ubiquitous information and pocket tech) have reshaped
wine. And although Gen-Z is starting out in wine at lower levels than previous newly legal drinking age cohorts, their involvement in the category is on par with that of Gen-X. In terms of the three categories of involvement (Low, Medium, and High) the Gen-Z and Gen-X are at parity with 85 percent of wine drinkers in the top two boxes, according to IWSR’s Wine Landscapes – USA, 2024.
FROM VOLUME TO VALUE
Globally, consumption is declining in lowerpriced wine segments, but gaining in the more “premium” price segments. This is especially true in the US.
Growth historically and in the future is forecasted to come from wines priced at the “super premium,” and higher tiers. These wines are priced $25+. There’s a common saying in the industry that our patrons are drinking less but drinking better. Some of the reduction in wine occasions is certainly the result of the trend toward moderation. Another factor is substitution – as consumers switch out of lower-priced wine and into ready-to-drink (RTDs) or other beverage alcohol categories.
While total servings of wine are declining, there’s still good news for the long-term for $25+ priced “fine” wines. There is strength in spending in the younger cohorts. Around 30 percent of the most engaged consumers are either Millennials or Gen-X, however they account for 60 percent of the value of the wine market. The consumers who are leaving are
price sensitive, older customers. Is wine shrinking? Yes, but mostly out of older customers, not newer ones.
GOING BLANC
What are these engaged Millennials and GenXers choosing when they choose to drink better? First, they’re drinking more sparkling and white wines. Red wine is having a tough time right now. Alarm bells rang across the industry when in December 2024 the San Francisco Chronicle reported data from Toast, a restaurant point-of-sale system provider, showing a Q2 decline of 12 percent in sales of red wine in the Bay Area.
This downward trend is attributed to an increased interest in moderation. As the consumer balances their choices to optimize their health, for example by reducing their red meat consumption, they have also reduced an occasion for red wine pairing, as noted Sarah Brown in Wine Business Monthly in July 2024.
New cuisine preferences also contribute to lower consumption of red wines. Millennials were the first generation to dislodge Italian cuisine from their top spot – it fell to #2 behind Mexican food. Gen-Z also holds Mexican food as #1. For them, Chinese is #2 and Italian is #3, according to Dora Mekouar (“Young America’s Favorite New Ethnic Food,” VOA, June 14, 2023). While Mexican and Chinese restaurants in the US don’t exhibit a wine culture, most sparkling and white wines can enhance these meals. The moderation trend, paired with diversifying
AROUND 30% OF THE
MOST
ENGAGED WINE CONSUMERS ARE EITHER MILLENNIALS OR GEN-X,
BUT THEY ACCOUNT FOR 60% OF THE VALUE OF THE MARKET
“Today, every member of the wine trade understands that it isn’t enough to produce a high-quality, great tasting glass of wine. It’s a requirement to be able to communicate how that wine represents a unique authorial point of view and that it was grown sustainably”
67% OF 18–27 YEAR OLD GENZERS WHO TRAVEL OUTSIDE THE US SAY IT HAS CHANGED THEIR TASTE PREFERENCES
flavor palates which favor white wines for pairing, will continue to provide a growth curve for sparkling and white wines.
THE NEW LUXURY
As discussed earlier, the reshaping of the wine business through the Millennial lens of “authentic,” growers and makers has been fully realized. Today, every member of the wine trade understands that it isn’t enough to produce a high-quality, great tasting glass of wine. It’s a requirement to be able to communicate how that wine represents a unique authorial point of view, and that it was grown sustainably. And for fine wine, that’s a good thing. Over the next ten years, “luxury” wine marketing will continue its reshaping by both Millennial and Gen-Z consumers.
EXPERIENCE MATTERS
Global food and beverage intelligence company Datassential, in their 2025 Trends report, asked consumers to identify a list of ingredients as “luxury.” The result was that 42 percent of social media native Gen-Zers ranked edible gold as “luxury” compared to only 31 percent of Millennials. The 10th ranked luxury ingredient was the category of “Natural/ Organic/Local.” These data points illustrate a big opportunity for wine marketers. Edible gold wins the Gen-Z cohort because it wins visually on social media. Communicating that wine is a “natural” beverage is readily achieved in the same format.
Datassential followed that question with another asking consumers to rank which factors of dining at restaurants are the most “luxurious.” The number one factor, selected by 55 percent of consumers was: “Dining at a sit-down restaurant in general (being served/waited on, not having to clean up or cook, etc.).
Interestingly, restaurant operators in the same survey significantly under-estimated the value diners placed on the experience of dining out. Increasing their awareness of this consumer need, and according to Datassential, joining forces with wine marketers to fulfill consumer desire for “little luxuries,” will drive wine growth over the long-term.
GLOBAL TASTES
Like wine, coffee has a global culture. About 57 percent of consumers are interested in global coffee and café cultures including third spaces, where slowing down and having a sit-down coffee is the norm, while 78 percent of consumers think that Americans, in general, could benefit from slowing down and enjoying life (versus a more bustling lifestyle). These preferences for cultural experiences that are considered non-American are likely to accelerate with the growing number (55 percent) of 18-27 year old Gen-Zers who travel outside the US and report that travel has changed their taste preferences (67 percent), notes Datassential.
If we accept coffee as a directional proxy for wine, there are good reasons to believe that wine will ride this wave of growth in the US.
Wine is a vibrant part of many non-American cultures, and wine offers a highly accessible vehicle to explore those cultures. Further, the slow down sentiment is readily mapped to the key wine occasions in “on-premises”: Relaxing, Socializing, or a Casual Meal.
The growth we see today in on-premises is driven by Gen-Z and Millennials (IWSR Bevtrac 2024, Consumer Insights Wave 2 – US, Nov 28, 2024) whose wine consumption frequency stayed flat or grew in 2023 vs 2022, on a base that was higher than 2019, or pre-Covid (IWSR’s Wine Landscapes – USA, 2024).
Savvy operators will lean into this consumer desire to experience the luxury of time. Retailers and wine marketers will communicate the cultural values of wine.
SUMMING IT UP
The wine category is being reshaped, and it will result in lower consumption volume overall. However, the preferences of Millennials and Gen-Z for wines made with vision and social responsibility, paired with the trends for indulgence and cultural exploration, also set the stage for growth in the value of Super Premium+ priced wine. The opportunity for growth will be realized when wine communications go beyond ingredients and origin into showing how wine enhances life for its consumers.
Suzanne Denevan-Brown is the marketing director at Maze Row.
A benchmark producer of structured and elegant Amarone, as well as a leader in Valpolicella for terroir-driven IGT wines.
Traditionally known for its street food, Los Angeles is now redefining fine dining through visionary chefs and sommeliers who push the boundaries of culinary innovation with sustainable, creative food and wine pairings, writes Virginia Miller
STORIES
This page, from top, Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel lobby; Master Sommelier Caroline Styne; Styne with business partner and chef Suzanne Goin; Caldo Verde’s ceviche and lamb neck ragu; the hotel's swimming pool. Opposite, a dish of grilled lobster and an illuminated sign at Kato
One of the most diverse metropolises in the world, Los Angeles remains a haven for every cuisine possible, its multicultural roots and peoples spread out in hundreds of enclaves between its infamous freeways. While LA’s casual and street food has long been among the best, its fine dining has up until now trailed behind much smaller cities such as San Francisco. Today, while casual fare still reigns, fine dining is growing fast in quality and innovation, thanks to a bunch of innovative sommeliers and beverage directors. At hotspots like chef Evan Funke’s evermobbed Mother Wolf LA, wine director Sean Friel focuses primarily on Italian wines. “My selection process is somewhat different from many modern restaurants,” he notes. “Working with chef Funke, my thinking is that food should be the focus. While we in the US think of pairing as a fun option, this is deeply entrenched in Italian culinary culture. Wine and food should always be mutually enhancing, so every drop of wine at Mother Wolf is there to enhance the food experience.”
Pioneers like Caroline Styne, one of fewer than 300 Master Sommeliers in the world, and among roughly 25 women in the US with that all-too-rare title, have long been showing LA how it’s done. Since 1998 when now-closed Lucques opened, Styne and business partner and chef, Suzanne Goin, are behind multiple spots, including 22-year-old great A.O.C., as well as offerings at legendary Hollywood Bowl. Goin’s memorable dishes sing with Styne’s exceptional wine lists, both women winning James Beard Awards.
At the hip, boutique Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel and its restaurant, Caldo Verde, Goin’s CalMed cuisine pairs beautifully with Styne’s curated wine list. “No matter what direction my list is taking,” explains Styne, “I always hone my selections towards boutique, artisanal producers as I really want to support smaller wineries. I strive to offer guests an experience of something new, like wineries they’ve never seen before, versus a list of wines that they can find anywhere.”
Ever a leader, Styne clarifies, “I try hard to steer clear of trends and gimmicks. It’s easy to get sucked into focusing on popular wines or processes. But just because something is trending doesn’t necessarily mean it’s good. I work hard to include only wineries practicing sustainable farming, preferably farming organically or biodynamically. We’ve always focused our restaurant menus on small, local organic farmers so it only makes sense for our wine lists to follow the same path.”
On the trail Styne has blazed, LA’s fine dining are now pushing boundaries in food with all-encompassing pairings, ranging from classic to trendy.
LAID-BACK VIBE
Four upscale restaurants, brand new to decades-old, exemplify the range of what is happening in the infamously casual LA. Mélisse has been a Santa Monica legend since 1999. Chef Josiah Citrin has impressively kept this two Michelin-star restaurant relevant for 25 years, as he has the neighboring, more casual, one Michelin-star Citrin. Yes, it’s fine dining, but 14-seat Mélisse feels like a home dinner party since its 2019 remodel, set to chef Citrin’s 1970 and 1980s album selection playing on vintage McIntosh amps and quality speakers, with wood-paneled walls and vinyl record plates.
Citrin, along with chef and partner Ken Takayama, evolve from their Cal-French base with Japanese influence and beyond to create joyful dishes like chilled sea kelp noodles and consommé accented with sea vegetables and mustard, or uni cromesquis, akin to croquettes with sea urchin and fermented yuzu honey. The one-bite Caesar salad under a tower of shaved parmigiano is a whimsical delight highlighting what Citrin does best in playful, fresh, California style. Head sommelier
Maja Kümmerle pairs these dishes with rare sakes like IWA 5 Junmai Daiginjo or French wines from Jurançon and Bandol to Grower Champagnes.
Meanwhile, since the summer of 2022, chef Jordan Kahn of two Michelin-starred Vespertine has chosen a more relaxed approach at the Michelin-starred Meteroa. The verdant, green oasis – with a feel like a spa retreat in Tulum or Bali – centers around live fire cooking unlike any other restaurant. Think signature burnt murasaki yam with yeast butter, charred cucumbers, hazelnuts, smoked trout roe and pickled papaya seeds. Sommelier James Saidy deftly pairs Kahn’s visionary food with funky yet elegant wines from Sicily to Burgundy, heavy on islands like Corsica, Cyclades or Canary Islands.
Since its early Santa Monica strip mall days, chef Jonathan Yao’s Kato has made massive waves, topping LA Times’ best restaurants and named “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” in the coveted Resy One To Watch 2023 (in the world). Kato’s huge downtown LA space illuminates Yao’s inventive modern Taiwanese food in bites like Longxia Shala, a lobster claw salad laced with horseradish mayo in a red fife “taco.”
Co-owner and sommelier Ryan Bailey veers from Germany to Jura, but also Kato’s own elegant house Kato x Cole Ranch Savagnin Ouille wine produced in Mendocino, California, with grapes planted from France’s Côte du Jura. Alternately, bar director Austin Hennelly thoughtfully pairs non-alcoholic and regular cocktails featuring ingredients like bitter melon or salted egg yolk.
And finally, having opened on Thanksgiving 2024, Somni has swiftly become one of LA’s most sought-after restaurants in ages. It’s a reopening of Spanish chef Aitor Zabala’s famed two Michelin-starred José Andrés group restaurant, four years after it closed. Serving only 14 diners at two curved counters in a gorgeous new space with garden and dining room, the pricy $495 tasting menu is one delicious art piece. From sardine tarts to oxtail curry buns, Zabala’s ambitions are clearly world-class, as is his experience cooking at history’s number one gastronomy temple, El Bulli, in Spain.
Wine director Caroline Costarella’s memorable non-alcoholic progression thrills with the likes of a sweet-savory cocktail of tomato espuma, celery salt and tabasco, while her wine list is international but blessedly heavy on Spain and California, a natural and historic partnership.
LA may not have the number of Michelin stars of San Francisco or New York, but as these examples show, what is here is mighty, world-class, changing LA’s dining landscape – and growing rapidly.
A note from the author: At the time of publishing, fires continue to blaze across Los Angeles. My heart is heavy for dear Los Angeles and the massive, widespread loss and scars this tragedy leaves in its wake.
“Wine and food should always be mutually enhancing; every drop of wine at Mother Wolf is there to enhance the food experience”
Sean Friel, wine director, Mother Wolf LA
This page, Mother Wolf from the exterior and interior; Somni’s chef Aitor Zabala and his artful dishes including Tarta de Sardina (smoked iwashi with tomato sofrito) and Flor de Remolacha (beet meringue, yogurt, horseradish, lemon); Mélisse’s A5 Wagyu, enoki and potato chip canapé, and Kato’s crab and fish maw soup. Opposite, chef Jonathan Yao’s Kato continues to make waves with its inventive modern Taiwanese food
Left, since opening on Thanksgiving 2024, Somni has swiftly become one of LA’s most sought-after restaurants.
The recent wildfires in Los Angeles have devastated communities, including Pacific Palisades and Altadena, leaving many sommeliers and wine professionals in urgent need of assistance. The United Sommeliers Foundation (USF) is dedicated to providing immediate financial aid to those impacted by this disaster.
Founded five years ago, USF has awarded over $2 million in grants to more than 2,500 wine professionals, supporting them through natural disasters like the LA fires. We offer two grant programs: the Open Grant and Emergency Specific Grants, ensuring transparency and fairness in our support.
We are here for you – through every challenge, together as one community. Join us in providing much-needed relief to those affected by the LA fires. Your support can help sustain and rebuild the lives of our fellow professionals.
For more information or to donate, visit unitedsommeliersfoundation.org.
Contact us at info@unitedsommeliersfoundation.com or via @unitedsomms.
Together, we can make a difference.
MY LOS ANGELES
John Phillips (left) shares his snapshots of his Los Angeles including Downtown LA and Taco Zone, a humble food truck parked outside Vons in Echo Park, and one of his sets at El Prado
John Phillips, aka Skinny Pablo, is an underground music producer and designer. He is also a Riesling aficionado and self-described disruptive child of the avant-garde. Here, he shares his ideal 24-hours in his adopted city
When VOICES reached out, unaware that I had relocated “across the pond” to a tranquil village in the Mosel region of Germany, and asked for a breakdown of 24 hours in Los Angeles with Skinny Pablo, I was inspired to reflect. As a musical artist, it’s common to experience cities for less than 24 hours – you fly in, play music, then leave. Sleep is minimal, if at all. Writing this while LA endures catastrophic fires, I wish the best for friends, family and beloved citizens of the city.
Leaving the city I called home for 12 years marked a fresh chapter in life, though many experiences remain bookmarked in my memory. Today, I’ll share my favorite LA haunts, curated around food, wine, and music. Since relocating to Paris and Mosel, I’ve savored croissants, schnitzel, döner, Michelin-starred dining and cheeses galore. They’re all wonderful, but few places push culinary boundaries like LA. There, you could find unique, unforgettable dishes in a
pop-up, a food truck, or a neighborhood joint. What do I miss most? Street tacos.
This schedule is designed for a Tuesday (Taco Tuesday). As a traveling musical artist, this pace is second nature. Plan to land at 6am. Bring friends – it’s a marathon of food, wine and music.
8:00 AM – BREAKFAST AT DESTROYER
After escaping LAX, head to West LA for breakfast at Destroyer by Jordan Kahn. Arrive early – queues form by 8am with industry types. The French toast is fantastic, paired with rotating fresh dishes, warm drinks, and baked goods. Portions are shareable, so don’t over order.
11:00 AM – EXPLORE ECHO PARK, FROGTOWN,
ELYSIAN PARK
Post-breakfast, head east to enjoy LA’s outdoor beauty. Elysian Park offers hiking trails and skyline views. Frogtown, a revitalized stretch of the LA River, features charming paths and graffiti murals. Or, relax by the manmade pond and fountains in Echo Park.
1:30 PM – LUNCH AT SQIRL
Next, make your way to Sqirl in Silver Lake. A personal favorite introduced by Soilpimp, my Riesling guru. Sqirl excels at fresh, health-conscious dishes. Their signature sorrel pesto rice with lacto-fermented lemons and peppers is the star. Pair it with their veggie sandwich – arguably the best in the world. Boutique oils, spices, and heady wines like Elbling and Sylvaner are available in their shop. Outdoor seating is shaded, and the vibe is chill – perfect for solo or group dining.
3:00 PM – WINE STOP AT DOMAINE LA
Next, stock up on bottles for the evening at Domaine LA. Jill, the owner, curates an incredible selection, from German rarities like Stein and Hofgut Falkenstein to natural wines from all over the world. If Mosel Riesling seems scarce, mention Skinny Pablo – you might get lucky.
4:00 PM – CHILL AT TABULA RASA
Stop by Tabula Rasa, a welcoming wine bar in
Thai Town, Hollywood. DJs with great taste (including yours truly) often spin here, and their wine list never disappoints. Try a glass of Riesling or Pinot and snack on tapas-style bites. It’s the perfect prelude to the evening.
6:00 PM – THAI TACO TUESDAY AT ANAJAK
Head to Anajak Thai in Sherman Oaks for Thai Taco Tuesday – the headliner of the day. Arrive before 6pm (no reservations) and join the line, bringing some wine to share. Owner/chef Justin Pichetrungsi sets the alley on fire with hardcore hip-hop and dishes like fried chicken with caviar, whole branzino, dry-aged fish tacos, and more. It’s a family business; Auntie and Mom might pour you wine as you wait.
9:00 PM – DINNER AT MAJORDOMO
While Anajak could be the perfect finale, I have another plan. From the Valley, head to the Arts District for our second headliner: Majordomo. Cleanse your palate with kumquats from the
tree outside before diving in. Majordomo transformed my relationship with food, introducing me to dishes I’ve since recreated at home, like their bing bread, mushroom rice, and boiled chicken. The family-style menu is best enjoyed with a group, and the space exudes energy with a high-end playlist (think Beatles to ODB).
12:00 AM – LATE NIGHT AT EL PRADO
As the night deepens, make your way to El Prado in Echo Park. This neighborhood wine bar offers boutique wines, craft beers, and a DJ setup for impromptu parties. One night, I even saw a pony join the crowd. Located across from The Echo, it’s a prime spot for late-night revelry.
2:00 AM – TACO ZONE FOOD TRUCK
No LA night is complete without a visit to Taco Zone, a humble food truck parked outside Vons in Echo Park. Their mulitas are legendary – two tortillas stuffed with your choice of protein and melted cheese. Cabeza, suadero, and veggie are my go-to fillings. Tía (as I call her), the heart of
this operation, serves with warmth and a smile, even to the most drunken of patrons.
A CITY THAT LINGERS
As the meal wraps up, we reflect on the day, head to LAX, and brace ourselves for overpriced bananas and water.
After 12 years in LA, the city remains a part of me. Its vibrant food, wine, and culture shaped my tastes, and my memories. Other worthy mentions include YESS, Saffy’s, Damian, Roberta’s Pizza, Gusto Bread, Sala, Dudley Market, Dino’s, and India Sweets & Spices. Until next time, Los Angeles.
John Phillips, also known as Skinny Pablo, is a versatile artist from Guam, renowned as a musician, record producer, DJ, filmmaker, and fashion designer. He is best known for “Paris Mosel,” a film and soundtrack that blends his love for food, wine, music, and adventure into a sensory journey for those who appreciate the finer things in life.
“Few places push culinary boundaries like LA where you could find unique, unforgettable dishes in a pop-up, a food truck, or a neighborhood joint”
From left, Elysian Park, known for its hiking trails and skyline views; Riesling at Sqirl; Skinny Pablo; Frogtown, the revitalized stretch of the LA River with great paths and graffiti murals; kumquats from the tree at Majordomo; and Sqirl’s signature sorrel pesto rice
As the gastronomic landscape evolves, Jordan Mackay explores how breaking free from traditional pairings is inspiring sommeliers and chefs to redefine the art of food and wine harmony
Today’s gastronomic scene is so staggeringly different from a generation ago that the notion of traditional wine and food pairings can seem almost irrelevant or impossible. Food has reeled off on its own spiral, with foam and molecular phases and popular diet trends that range from raw vegan to carnivore. Today, it’s not uncommon for a modern individual to consume oysters, tacos, bibimbap, steak frites and Caesar salad in a single meal, let alone a day or week. What wine goes with that meal?
Wine too has been on a journey. Besides the fact that bottles hailing from such disparate locales as Georgia, Lebanon, Mexico and the UK regularly rub elbows on wine lists these days, who 20 years ago could have foreseen that “orange,” “skin contact,” and “chilled reds” would become standard categories?
In this climate, where all foods and wines are available at any time, traditional pairing seems quaint, stuffy even. Who gets excited for a Cab and a steak or a white fish and a Chardonnay? Is pairing wine and food a hallmark of a bygone era? In talking to modern wine directors, the answer is – like many wines today – hazy. What’s most compelling is how untethering from age-old convention has allowed them,
if they wish, to discover their own styles of preparing a table.
When I ask Arjav Ezekiel for his thoughts on the current state of food and wine pairings, he is momentarily speechless. “You’re actually the first person to ask me that.” Ezekiel – who (along with his wife, chef Tracy Malechek) owns one of the most brilliant wine-oriented restaurants in the US, Birdie’s in Austin, Texas – also notes that he can’t think of a restaurant in Austin that currently offers pairings.
Ezekiel’s list is as rich with things you want to drink as Malechek’s menu is deliciously seasonal. Pairings happen on the fly, if at all; the primary focus at Birdie’s is finding a bottle you like. “We try, and do pairings almost as blocks – pick a wine that puts a smile on your face and it will generally accompany various things as the meal progresses. We don’t really treat it like, ‘this goes perfectly with this.’ If we feel really strongly about a pairing, we tend to just give it away.” Thus, a dazzling pairing – Ezekiel mentions a dry Madeira with Birdie’s signature beef tartare – is not standard but exceptional, offered as a treat.
Birdie’s wine exists on a parallel plane to the menu. Their interaction is intimate, if not choreographed. This approach suits Birdie’s extremely casual service style. With more than
half the seating on an outdoor patio, what turns out to be most impactful on Ezekiel’s pairing instincts are the local conditions. “More often than not, the weather dictates what I want to drink and serve with the food,” he says. “It also tends to dictate the menu, so I guess pairing wine with the weather isn’t that far-fetched.”
SEASONAL CHANGE
At Smithereens, co-owner Nikita Malhotra’s entire wine list is an exercise in pairing, though again, not necessarily with dish-by-dish precision in mind. The cozy new East Village restaurant opened in November 2024 with a concept of change – the menu and the wine list will change with the seasons. For the opening chapter, the culinary theme has been New England seafood, and Malhotra’s entire wine list is white wine, mostly classical, off-dry German Riesling. She calls the list “a love story, an homage to the Kabinett style.”
Despite appearances, Malhotra is no classicist. Her personal favorite pairing is cacio e pepe with Daiginjo sake, and she once served Domaine Roulot Clos des Bouchères 2016 in a glass rinsed with Ardbeg (a peaty scotch) alongside a dry-aged steak. As a veteran of the wine-centric Tribeca Grill and former wine director of Michelin two-star Momofuku Ko,
Previous page, husband-and-wife team Arjav Ezekiel and Tracy Malechek, owners of the wine-focused Birdie’s in Austin, Texas. Opposite, Caroline Clark, beverage director of The Wolf’s Tailor, Brutø, and Nonesuch. Bottom, Hey Kiddo — all are part of the Id Est group portfolio
“We paired an austere, ten-year-old Chablis with an odd Japanese preparation with a lot of acidity and seaweed to create an ornate oceanic experience. It actually brought a tear to my eye, because not only is Chablis and oysters a thing for a reason, but it opened up a conversation about climate change and the classic, maybe fading perceptions of a changing world”
The Wolf’s Tailor and Brutø beverage director, Caroline Clark
Malhotra has represented massive lists and written wine-pairing menus. She likens running an encyclopedic list to curating an art museum (“you need to make sure you have enough ancient Egyptian pieces”). But Smithereens operates more like an art gallery – changing, intimate – which “allows me and the diner to focus a bit more, to pay closer attention to both the food and the wine,” she says.
The German-Riesling-focused list’s goal is not solely to complement the food. It also represents Malhotra’s current, rapt fascination with the winemaking scene in Germany, to which she has traveled and senses great energy and change, things she wants to harness on the list and in the glass, whether or not these notions are obvious. Her wine list – and representing it on the floor each night – connects with and propels this energy. As such, her connections with the place and its winemakers become an aspect of the pairing on her micro-focused list.
And just like an art gallery or a short story – Malhotra is a bibliophile – the menus will change in springtime, when her wine list will examine Grenache grown on sand. Beyond that, who knows?
“I’m interested in exploring so many things,” says Malhotra. Take sake. “There’s not as much tension, which defines how we think in the Western ideas of pairing. But when you open the doors to other cultures, it becomes more
nuanced. Texture is important. Or I think about a sense of movement when tasting wine.” One Riesling she describes as a ballerina on the palate, another an F1 racing driver, qualities, “as valid for pairings as our basic notions of acid and tannin,” she says.
Despite evidence otherwise, classical wine pairing menus are not dead. At The Wolf’s Tailor and Brutø, two fine dining establishments from Denver’s Id Est group (as well as at Nonesuch, which the group operates in Oklahoma City), pairings comprise the majority of beverage sales, according to beverage director Caroline Clark. Pairing offerings are multifaceted: there are two wine pairings (regular and high-end) and a mixed beverage pairing that can include cocktails, non-alcoholic drinks, sake, cider, beer, etc.
“For us, it’s kind of a combo approach to pairings that’s exciting,” explains Clark. “We ask ourselves all the time: ‘Who cares about traditional pairings? Does it excite people to sit down and have something they’ve had a million times’?”
Yet, she notes, “there’s so much wisdom in traditional pairing that we’d be fools to completely ignore the tried and true. Plus, we have many kinds of guests. For some, this might be their first time at a Michelin-starred restaurant and they’ve never had the experience of pairings that some of us might consider overplayed.”
Clark remains conscious of how pairing can teach us both about the food and the wine. “In the case of something as common as Chablis with oysters, I remember we paired an older vintage with an odd Japanese preparation with a lot of acidity and seaweed to create an ornate oceanic experience. It truly highlighted the flavor of this ten-year-old Chablis, which tasted exactly as textbook austere, mineral Chablis was supposed to taste and doesn’t often anymore. It actually brought a tear to my eye, because not only is Chablis and oysters a thing for a reason, but it opened up a conversation about climate change and the classic, maybe fading perceptions of a changing world.” Will future generations even know what Chablis and oysters tasted like?
In Clark’s estimation, wine and food pairing, whatever form it takes, is here to stay. “Humans just sometimes don’t want to deal with highlevel pairing, and the clear rules make decision-making a little easier. Or we don’t care about making a match at all,” she says. “Both are valid and enjoyable. But the fun is in those moments the match is just so dead on, so perfect. It can be powerful.”
Indeed, in those rare cases, the spark produced by a perfect match – whether planned or discovered by accident – can illuminate a memory of both the food and the wine that lasts a lifetime.
“There’s not as much tension, which defines how we think in the Western ideas of pairing. But when you open the doors to other cultures, it becomes more nuanced”
Smithereens co-owner Nikita Malhotra
At the cozy East Village Smithereens in New York, co-owner Nikita Malhotra’s entire wine list is an exercise in pairing, though not always with dish-by-dish precision in mind
Will Hersey explores how creative collaborations are reshaping the luxury landscape by fostering authentic connections through art, wine, and a shared sense of community
With each year, the number of luxury brands which collaborate with artists and designers on new product lines or experiences seems to grow and grow. On paper, these partnerships make a lot of sense. Brands benefit from a fresh perspective, working with creatives unsullied by industry conventions, while tapping into new audiences and, from a PR angle, it helps distract from the less showy elements of luxury, like the price tags, and the cycle of pushing more “stuff” every season. Such tie-ins have become so ubiquitous in every industry, from fashion to cars, that when done without due care and intention, they can feel like a corporate box tick – just another column in a marketing strategy.
Thankfully there are still cases where these combinations produce something special, and where creative freedom, shared values and the quality of the end experience are prioritized.
New York-based, Egyptian-born food artist Laila Gohar produces installations that are the polar opposite of bland. From teetering langoustine towers for fashion shows, to life-size chairs made out of cake for an art show at Sotheby’s in Paris, her fantastical bespoke creations are designed to wow and, naturally, her Instagram feed is a great place to get lost.
For Gohar, though, it’s about more than just food that looks pretty. Her aim is for these temporary art installations to trigger emotional reactions. Growing up in Cairo, it was less the food itself that inspired her than the atmosphere around it – the way people gathered and connected around mealtimes.
ONLY CONNECT
It’s this sense of hospitality and community that has grown into a central tenet for Terra, a largescale, multisensory art project and exhibition in the heart of Burgundy’s wine country that connects artists, collectors, galleries, winemakers
and local people. Now entering its third year, the project stems from a meeting of minds at Art Basel, between Jenn Ellis, a Swiss-Colombian art curator and Milena Berman, a Californian producer and wine consultant (later joined by London-based curator and art historian Emie Diamond).
“We shared not just a mutual aesthetic in the way we look at art, but also in terms of how we experience it,” says Berman. “We found that the meals were equally important to the art programming, because people really engaged and shared and connected.” She bridges the art and wine world, often thoughtfully pairing wines to the specific themes and styles of the artist she is working with.
“It was the care with which Milena picked out the wine that stood out to me,” remembers Ellis. “We have these meals in the art world, but invariably the wine that gets selected is quite bad, or it’s the last thing people think about. But if you’ve put so much care into how you
“In wine, you sense place through taste, and in art, perhaps through a multisensory experience. So that’s really what we’re after with Terra, this idea of feeling a place through all these different senses, through arts, through culture, through music even, and through wine and taste”
Milena Berman, producer and wine consultant
display something, why would you not extend that same care to this binding element that is part of the celebration?”
Back home in Burgundy, where she’s lived since 2013, Berman looked into the possibility of accessing heritage buildings among the UNESCO World Heritage protected vineyards as exhibition space. The local response was immediately enthusiastic. “The winemaking community was sort of tossing me the keys to their chateaux,” she explains.
When Ellis came to see the spaces, each in the surrounds of the medieval town of Beaune – including a 15th-century chapel, historical theatre and château – they landed on the theme of terroir, with each venue given a sub-theme of its own. “In wine, you sense place through taste, and in art, perhaps through a multisensory experience,” explains Berman. “So that’s really what we’re after with Terra, this idea of feeling a place through all these different senses, through arts, through culture, through music even, and through wine and taste.”
Next to come on board with gusto were the galleries and artists, attracted by the opportunity to do something truly original in a special part of the world, against a spectacular autumnal backdrop. “A project like this makes people dream a little, and I think that’s really important,” says Ellis.
Over the two years of Terra, a mix of established work, new commissions and site-specific pieces have been shown, like the stunning Frame Series, Work No. 2 by Meta Drčar in the venue 67 Pall Mall, the members wine club housed in Résidence de Moyne-Blandin. Meanwhile for 2024, an open call for submissions garnered over 300 applications, resulting in a selection of just 10 artists from a nine-person jury. Terra has now featured artists from Senegal to Turkey, Singapore to the UK.
“And people from every single corner of the world have attended,” says Berman. “It’s remarkable.” Such has been the response that the team are now planning doing quarterly events in New York, London, Geneva and Paris.
These international flavors remain rooted
though by the Burgundian setting and its local backing. And it’s this blend and exchange of disciplines, industries and perspectives that makes an event like Terra so unusual.
Ellis’s favorite memory from last year came at the gala dinner, in the majestic surrounds of the Hospices de Beaune. The table clocks had been designed by the artists, with a mix of gallery owners, collectors and winemakers in attendance. “I was amazed that some of the winemakers had brought some bottles with them,” she recalls. “All of a sudden, we had this moment of participation, this contribution. It was magical."
This page, left, Abrasée XLIV (2024) by Antoine Langenieux-Villard at La Maison de Pommard. Right, Guard (2024) by Jodie Carey at Résidence de Moyne-Blandin. Opposite, What will you leave behind? (2021) by artist Nino Sarabutra at Château de Chevigny-en- Valière, France, in 2024
Among Laila Gohar’s artistic collaborations is her partnership with the French luxury brand Hermès, where she showcases her distinctive fusion of food, design, and fashion
Cities are being revitalized as bars, cafés and restaurants reclaim unused spaces, with food and drink playing a pivotal role in this urban renewal, even in the post-pandemic era, writes Edwin Heathcote
It wasn’t that long ago that if you ordered coffee, you would get coffee. Out of a jug with a little plastic tub of half-and-half. And that was it. Coffee today, though, is a cult. From the sickly concoctions of Starbucks to gourmet cold brew and sour, impeccably sourced ristrettos, coffee shops have transformed main streets and high streets across the US and much of Europe from hollowed-out, shell of a strip to slowly reviving community hubs. Work has moved from factories to café tables.
For beer something similar happened – from the frosty steppes of Bud Light and Coors to craft beers and the fruits of micro-breweries (some of which are now in the bar itself, huge stills lurking in the coppery light of bare Edison bulbs), local bars have become something different, places of pride in produce, hipster hangouts rather than dead-end darkness loomed over by big TVs. In an ideal Main Street these new, self-conscious hang-outs might coexist with classic diners serving basic burgers and that same old coffee and mom’n’pop delis and bodegas. They do not necessarily preclude each other – the ideal ecosystem is a balance of blue collar and urban bare brick.
What this beverage revival does though is to highlight how rapidly and effectively food and drink joints can transform the appearance, use, density and destiny of Main Street. Apart from the seemingly inexorable rise of coffee culture and the reinvention of beer as a luxury consumable, the Covid pandemic also played its unlikely part. What might have been a killer for communal culture, the culture of crowds and coffee shops, instead became its savior; first when people began working from home (in name at least) and giving a boost to local
“In the 1960s and 1970s, it was artists who moved into former industrial districts, inventing the loft space in the process and launching now hypergentrified neighborhoods like New York’s SoHo. Now it is food entrepreneurs who are reimagining the streetscape”
neighborhood stores and cafes in the suburbs and outer edges, and then again when people were driven mad by the solitude and fell lovingly back into the embrace of the third space.
But there was more. A new aesthetic, emerging in the wake of the globalized brandscapes of the coffee and fast-food chains with their identikit interiors and furnishing, began to emerge in the form of rooms reclaimed with pride, deliberately preserving the scars and traces of history and use. The bare brick walls, cast-iron columns, concrete and timber floors, the industrial fittings and the tin-plate ceilings, all became a trademark of a reclaimed retail. So popular did this look become that it was quickly taken up by the big beasts of catering making it difficult to distinguish what is a reclaimed space and what is a brand new room made over with the language of reclamation to look old and industrial.
What this moment demonstrated was that there was an appeal to authenticity, a craving for the real; the marks left by history and the spaces left in the hollowed-out main streets. So what might have begun as a seemingly superficial aesthetic trend has instead insinuated itself into a more optimistic view of the revival of Main Street’s appeal.
REINVENTING SPACES
For a while, the focus was on food trucks and the rapid transformation of neglected urban edge lands – spaces beneath city freeways, sidewalks, and vacant lots on the edges of gentrification. But these pop-up moments are fleeting; they serve as launchpads for fledgling businesses experimenting with new food concepts but do little beyond generating lunchtime lines.
Far more lasting is the reappropriation of urban fabric. In the 1960s and 1970s, it was artists who moved into former industrial districts, inventing the loft space in the process and launching now hyper-gentrified neighborhoods like New York’s SoHo. Now it is food entrepreneurs who are reimagining the streetscape. Although it is notoriously easy to spend millions on interior fit-outs, it’s not necessary. A storefront might require relatively little frontof-house change – the shop window is already in place, and the space may work well with just a few tweaks and minimal furnishing.
Around the corner from my home is a defunct druggist turned, with the aid of a bar and a few candles, into a chi-chi new venue. Even the old sign has been left largely intact. In New York, it is the small, often immigrant-owned eateries in the outer boroughs that are reviving old,
Previous page, Szimpla Kert, Budapest’s original “ruin bar,” transformed a pre-war building in the Hungarian capitals former Jewish Quarter into a vibrant hub of eclectic decor, street art, and cultural events.
Right, Terra, a wine bar in New York’s vibrant Tribeca
empty stores into thriving community hubs. The reinvention of the cocktail bar, along with the recent popularity of speakeasies and “secret” drinking dens, has also led to the colonization of seemingly ordinary spaces, with exotic or luxurious back rooms hidden behind them – the more banal the storefront, the more piquant the effect. Rents from drinking dens like New York’s Blind Barber, Keys & Heels, The Little Shop, or Please Don’t Tell subsidize the stores that conceal them, offering a thrill alongside the sense of discovery.
Then there are the surprising switches – the reimagining of grand spaces as something else. Among the best was a remarkable attempt to revive the grand Hotel Europejski in Poland’s capital Warsaw but by the back door. Restaurateur Adam Gessler didn’t place his new restaurant in the grand dining rooms, but rather in the industrial, communist-eras kitchens, with its diners sitting amid the white tiles and socialist-realist air of the back of house. Meanwhile, the now-defunct U Kucharzy is a perfect demonstration of what can be done, showing how unpromising spaces can be appropriated and revived with minimal invention but maximal wit.
Surviving better, however, are the “ruin bars” of Budapest in Hungary. These warren-like
establishments have taken over entire apartment blocks (Szimpla Kert, although now super-touristy, remains the best example), room by room, with large bars and dance floors in the courtyards, and intimate retreat rooms in old domestic settings – often with the original wallpaper still adorning the walls. They have proved a stunning reimagination of often derelict and dilapidated buildings, bringing them back into the life of the city.
Finally, it might be worth remembering the odd interlude of the pandemic when bars and restaurants spilled onto the streets with booths and ad-hoc sheds and shelters, transforming the sidewalks and reanimating the still-dead streetscape. It was a radical and rapid transition, appropriating the city for pleasure. And even though its effects have been short-lived, it demonstrated how easily food and drink can transform the city.
The predictions of Main Street’s ongoing decline persist, and while online shopping continues to wreak havoc, the inexorable rise of the experience economy and the growing desire for authenticity in our everyday encounters present the ultimate challenge for restaurateurs and entrepreneurs. They are being rewarded for the most sustainable ventures: the least
invasive appropriation of existing, often muchloved spaces in the city, or the rediscovery of neglected back rooms, holes-in-the-wall, and hidden gems – all designed to create anticipation and delight.
A trained architect and author of a number of books including most recently, “On the Street: In-Between Architecture,” Edwin Heathcote is a leading global voice in architecture and design criticism.
SIGN UP TO VOICES
the publication for Maze Row:
Stay informed with industry news, reviews and interviews. Receive regular updates on new vintage releases. Gain member-only invitations to special events and tastings.
Known for its Valpolicella, Soave and Bardolino wines, Northern Italy’s Veneto region combines historical landmarks with some of the country’s best wines. Alessandra Piubello explores Verona, its surrounding vineyards, and the nearby shores of Lake Garda
A
romantic UNESCO heritage city nestled among the meandering bends of the Adige river, Verona is a treasure trove of historical beauty, and the setting for Italy’s most famous love story. “There is no world without Verona walls, but purgatory, torture, hell itself,” as Shakespeare wrote in Romeo and Juliet.
Take a stroll on Piazza Bra on a summer evening, and you’ll hear music floating in the air from the city’s arena, one of the world’s best preserved Roman amphitheatre. Walking around the city, there are traces of over 2,200 years of history everywhere, from Roman remains to medieval monuments (the Basilica di San Zeno, a masterpiece of Romanesque art, is a must-see), and from the Gothic Scaliger Tombs (built for the House Della Scala family, who ruled in Verona in the 13th and 14th centuries) to Venetian palazzi and Habsburg fortresses.
Verona not only boasts a wealth of striking landmarks, but also a centuries-old culinary tradition that stems from the kitchens of local lords, and is rich in typical products, from gnocchi to pandoro. It is also, of course, a wine capital: recognised as an “International City of Vine and Wine,” Verona is home to world-renowned wines including Amarone and Soave, as well as Vinitaly, the first ever international wine fair –still among the largest in the world.
Venturing out of Verona, one can admire the historic winemaking tradition of its surroundings: Soave, 20 km east; Valpolicella, a few kilometres northwest; Bardolino, 30 km northwest overlooking Lake Garda; and Lugana, 40 km west.
Soave is a medieval town with alleys and arcades that are a pleasure to discover. Its hilltop castle is one of Veneto’s most beautiful, with truly unique views from the ramparts overlooking the vineyards below. The wine from these lands is white, made mainly from Garganega grapes.
Meanwhile, Valpolicella, whose hills are dotted with Renaissance villas surrounded by beautiful gardens and impressive parks, produces four red wines: Amarone, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso and Recioto, brothers made from the same grapes (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella) but with different winemaking techniques.
Then at Lake Garda, the charming town of Bardolino offers a choice between culture, gastronomy, sports (rowing, windsurfing, sailing) and local wine tasting: a Bardolino red or a Chiaretto rosé, both made from Corvina, but vinified differently. On the southwest side of the lake, one can sip white Lugana made from Turbiana grapes. Verona and its surroundings are masters in the art of evoking unique emotions.
Clockwise from top left, Golden frame sculpture at Ottella winery in Peschiera del Garda, Michelin-star restaurant Iris, the Villa dei Cedri Hotel’s 18th century gardens, and the medieval castle of Soave
WINERIES TO VISIT
Whether boasting hilltop views or housed in Renaissance villas, the region’s leading wineries offer both stunning settings and world-renowned wines.
ALLEGRINI, VALPOLICELLA
Visit the picturesque vineyards of Allegrini in Valpolicella, a benchmark producer of structured and elegant Amarone, and a leader in terroir-driven IGT wines, where tradition and innovation shape every bottle.
PIEROPAN, SOAVE
Set amid Soave Classico vineyards, Pieropan (see p10) harnesses cutting-edge technology and research to produce top quality wines – an authentic expression of the terroir in a glass.
SANTA SOFIA, SAN PIETRO IN CARIANO, VERONA
A UNESCO World Heritage villa set in a stunning park and designed by the renowned Renaissance architect Palladio. Here, traditional and elegant wines are meticulously crafted and aged in the estate’s 14th-century cellars.
TENUTA SANTA MARIA GAETANO BERTANI, NEGRAR
Located near the picturesque village of Arbizzano di Negrar, this Venetian-style 18th-century villa comes with 16th-century cellars, where in 1936 the first Amarone wine was produced. With a long family winemaking tradition, the estate offers classic Valpolicella wines.
OTTELLA, PESCHIERA DEL GARDA
At Ottella, in the land of Lugana where the Montresor family has ancient roots, wine, art, nature and culture merge to offer a memorable experience.
This page, the Allegrini vineyards, nestled in Valpolicella’s rolling hills, produce exceptional Amarone della Valpolicella, and Francesco Allegrini, the winery’s head winemaker. Opposite, clockwise from top left, Pieropan cellars in Soave; Santa Sofia Cellars is set in park and designed by the Renaissance architect Palladio; and wine, art, nature and culture merge at Ottella
WHERE TO EAT
Traditional
Veronese specialties are accompanied by more elaborate and creative cuisines.
ANTICA BOTTEGA DEL VINO, VERONA
Sample local wines, as well as traditional and re-interpreted dishes, in a historic building dating back to the 1500s in the heart of the city. A true temple of wine, not to be missed.
L’OSTE SCURO, VERONA
Fresh fish is the speciality of this elegant eatery, a family trattoria located a stone’s throw from Castelvecchio. Don’t miss the seafood starters, including oysters and caviar.
IRIS, VERONA
In a historic palazzo, chef Giacomo Sacchetto offers creative and innovative cuisine interspersed with authentic details in the refined setting of a Michelin-star restaurant.
ENOTECA DELLA VALPOLICELLA, FUMANE
Surrounded by vineyards in the Valpolicella area, this osteria offers traditional, genuine and inspired cuisine prepared with great care and respect for the ingredients.
LA TAVERNA DA ORESTE
The historic lakeside restaurant in Lazise has been serving exquisite seafood and regional specialties since 1907, offering guests stunning views of Lake Garda.
This page, Antica Bottega del Vino in Verona is a true temple of wine. Opposite, clockwise from top left, enjoy traditional food at Enoteca della Valpolicella, a dish of Spaghettini Senatore Cappelli at L’Oste Scuro in Verona, and Iris, another Veronese gem nestled in a historic palazzo
PLACES TO STAY
Verona’s hospitality offer is plentiful, with a wide range of choice at every level.
VISTA VERONA HOTEL, VERONA
The only hotel in the city’s historic center with an indoor pool and spa. Comfortable rooms in an eclectic style combine Italian design with furnishings by master craftsmen.
RELAIS BALCONE DI GIULIETTA, VERONA
Elegant rooms overlooking Juliet’s balcony or Piazza delle Erbe. Exposed beams and 17th-century frescoes provide a unique atmosphere.
RESIDENZA AI CAPITELLI, SOAVE
In the heart of Soave, the hotel offers meticulously renovated, cosy and homely modern rooms with exposed beams and parquet floors. There’s also an outdoor swimming pool.
BYBLOS ART HOTEL VILLA AMISTÀ, CORRUBIO
Filled with colorful modern artworks, this hotel is set in a 16th-century villa just outside Verona, and comes with wonderful gardens, a spa and a Michelin-star restaurant.
VILLA DEI CEDRI HOTEL, COLÀ DI LAZISE
This unique venue comprises an 18th-century residence surrounded by a vast park with lush vegetation, a greenhouse, lakes and thermal pools with hot springs. Relaxation guaranteed.
This page, Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amistà is filled with colorful modern artworks. Opposite, clockwise from top left, Vista Verona Hotel is the only hotel in the city’s historic center with an indoor pool, Relais Balcone di Giulietta overlooks Juliet’s balcony, the Villa dei Cedri Hotel sits within an 18th century park
THINGS TO DO, PLACES TO DISCOVER
Verona and its surroundings offer countless attractions, including the ancient wonders of Verona Romana.
JULIET’S HOUSE, VERONA
This medieval palace is known as the birthplace of Giulietta Capuleti, aka Romeo’s Juliet. Visit the museum, its famous balcony, and courtyard with a bronze statue of Juliet (it is said that touching it brings good luck in love).
FUNICOLARE DI CASTEL SAN PIETRO, VERONA
Taking the funicular to Castel San Pietro is an effortless way to enjoy the beauty of Verona from above, with its tall cypress trees, bell towers and bridges.
ADIGE RAFTING, VERONA
Seeing a city from the river that crosses it offers a singular and original perspective. Don’t miss the thrill of paddling and rafting down the Adige.
AMUSEMENT PARKS, LAKE GARDA
Caneva Aquapark, a water park with themed attractions, and Gardaland, a popular theme park for young and old, are both located near Peschiera del Garda.
GIARDINO GIUSTI, VERONA
This precious 16th-century garden is a must-see stop with various species of ancient trees, mythological statues, fountains, grottoes, Roman artifacts and an observation deck to admire the views.
This page, no visit to Verona is complete without stopping by Juliet’s House, the medieval palace believed to be the birthplace of Giulietta Capuleti — Romeo’s Juliet. Opposite, clockwise from top left, Caneva Aquapark in Lake Garda, Verona enjoyed from above at Castel San Pietro, the 16th century Giardino Giusti, and a river view with Adige Rafting
In this edition, I’m struck by the critical role “place” plays in developing culture. Italy’s “secret sauce” is part of a broader thirst for authenticity, cultural connection, and local distinctiveness. Italy, linking wine with its rich culinary traditions and regional uniqueness, resonates deeply with consumers worldwide.
We see this phenomenon in the revitalization of urban spaces through food and drink establishments. Cities are seeing a renaissance as bars, cafés, and restaurants transform unused spaces into vibrant community hubs. This revival mirrors Italy’s success by emphasizing authenticity and local culture, turning neglected areas into thriving centers of activity.
Being “authentic” to local culture is daringly embodied by Andrea and Dario Pieropan. Their conviction to build for the future in the ancient heart of Soave is beautifully represented in their stunning winery – another “first” in a notable legacy of leadership.
As Tamika R. Francis points out in her article “Recipes for Change,” we need to find ways to go beyond the technical jargon and push into sharing our unique experiences and getting a glimpse into the lives of others. Together, let’s embrace this challenge to understand each other.
Thank you for being part of our collective journey at Maze Row.
Joe C. Gallo Founder, Maze Row
Leigh
Jake
Léa
Lifestyle
Suzanne
Winemaker Pietro Ratti makes elegant wines from high-elevation vineyards in La Morra, combining depth with distinct elegance.
