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May/2014 • Vol. 96 • No. 5 The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

nesika klatawa sahale— we climb high

OWYHEE CANYON, P. 8 THE IMPORTANCE OF WIND TURBINES, P. 11 THE WAY IS THROUGH, P. 14 BRAINLESS CHILD, P. 24


FEATURES p. 7 Used Equipment Sale Wrap-Up p. 8 Owyhee Canyonlands: A Love Affair p. 11 How Wind Turbines Can Help Hiking Trails p. 14 The Way is Through p. 24 Brainless Child WI5+ X 5.9: East Face of Mt. Thielsen MONTHLY COLUMNS p. 5 Volunteer Opportunities p. 10 Lodge News p. 12 Climb Leader Profile—Joe Whittington p. 18 Outings p. 20 Time Warp p. 21 Successful Climbers p. 22 Membership Families p. 23 Long Timers p. 27 Go Hiking—Trail Trips p. 29 Membership Benefits p. 30 Membership Report p. 31 Executive Council Minutes

Ankush Verma on the Emmons Glacier on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Vaqas Malik. Cover: Kai Waldron climbing through the crux on the Yocum Traverse. Learn more about this climb on page 14. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Upcoming Events and Classes Hike Leader Appreciation Night May 2

Advanced Snow & Ice Applications Due May 19

Wilderness Navigation Mazama Welcome Skill Builder—Map Night May 28, 7–9 p.m. at the and Compass May 4, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. at the MMC and Hamilton Island.

Rock Warrior's Way & Access Issues

May 13, 6:30–9 p.m. at the MMC. More information on page 13.

Paige Claassen Clinics & Presentation May 13, 14 & 17. See page 6 for more information.

MMC. For new members as well as members who want to get more engaged with the organization.

Lonnie Dupre Class and Presentation

May 30 at the MMC (see back page for full details) The afternoon will feature a class on extreme cold-weather camping/ expeditions. In the evening there will be a presentation on a winter ascent of Denali.

Contact Us

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Road, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. noon—Mon. noon

Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org) Amanda Richards—Mazama Lodge Caretaker (caretaker@mazamas.org)


Executive Director’s Report Dear Mazamas, May marks the formal end of our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) and several of our other classes. Many of us are planning trips near and far to test our fitness, our newly garnered skills, and to experience again the freedom of high and remote mountains. As we move into the summer climb season I want to take a moment to recognize the extraordinary efforts of our volunteer leaders; and the responsibilities they take on to make our classes, activities and programs happen. Our volunteer leaders serve in many roles, as hike leader, climb leader, committee chair, board member, mentor, class instructor, event organizer, outing leader and project manager. Many of these people serve multiple roles and ensure that the work of our 20+ programs and 32 committees all hum along each year. One of the ways we pursue our mission of promoting mountaineering is by making the sport accessible to new people. Without our hundreds of active volunteers and mentors the costs and risks of engaging in mountaineering would be much higher for most people. These days with online learning and information resources so readily available you can learn many things by yourself at home. But climbing, mountaineering and on-the-ground stewardship however all require hands-on experience in the field with mentors. More than anything else our leaders serve as mentors to others and help us to create hundreds of new alpine enthusiasts each year. As such, many of the climbs on the Mazama schedule are truly beginner climbs (certainly not all - but most). Our volunteer climb leaders and assistants work to provide safe and accessible opportunities for new climbers to have their first experiences with mountaineering. In order to provide these early climbing experiences and opportunities to hundreds of new climbers each year our leaders take on several responsibilities beyond what most people assume when climbing privately. The first is accepting responsibility not just for their personal safety but for the entire group and those around them. When we take beginners on a climb our leaders are often very aware that the new climbers are still learning basic skills as well as the depths of personal responsibility we take on as climbers when we enter into the unpredictable mountain environment. Teaching new climbers to see and understand the risks they are choosing to take is a big challenge. Safety is Mazamas primary core value for this reason. The next is to minimize our impact. Anytime we go into the mountains we need to be aware of how we affect the environment. Many of us have had formal or informal Leave-No-Trace training or understand those tenets. Our friends and partners at the Access Fund have taught the climbing community that in order to ensure we have access to the mountains and crags we need to behave respectfully and take good care of the environment. If we recklessly trash an area it forever changes the character of that environment and therefore changes the quality of experience for new visitors. For everyone who is a climber, each outing is an opportunity to learn. Even the most seasoned experienced leader can learn from the team members. Turning experience into teaching moments is a common trait of outdoor leaders. Leaders provide opportunities for new

“Leaders provide opportunities for new climbers to attempt new skills, to identify and solve problems and to work with teams. Taking advantage of every moment of every outing to teach others is a common trait of our leaders. ” climbers to attempt new skills, to identify and solve problems and to work with teams. Taking advantage of every moment of every outing to teach others is a common trait of our leaders. The last, but not least important, role of the leader is to make the experience fun and enjoyable. I know a few climb leaders who start their climb saying that the priorities, in order, are safety, fun and summit. Some even jokingly swap the fun and summit pieces around, but ultimately, if the group isn't generally having fun people start questioning why they're there in the first place and group morale tanks. This is true whether we're on the mountain or in a committee meeting, and while each of us may define fun differently—some have even said that "it doesn't have to be fun to be fun"—in the end enjoyment is the key to success. And the fun, or the fulfillment, is what has kept all of us coming back for more. The best leaders among us have taken on these responsibilities by sharing outdoor experiences with other great leaders, and learning from them. In this way, each Mazama generation mentors the next. We have been asking ourselves how the organization can do more to facilitate that mentorship. So this month, in coordination with Nominating Committee, BCEP, Trail Trips, Education Committee, Climbing Committee and Adventurous Young Mazamas, we are launching a pilot leadership training course. This project was announced in the April Bulletin and we solicited nominations for candidates primarily from BCEP leaders. The course will introduce participants to the technical, interpersonal and judgment skills that form the foundation of outdoor leadership. The course is designed to prepare participants to assume a variety of leadership roles at the Mazamas—from climbs to hikes to committees—and will be facilitated by great mentors from each of these disciplines. I hope you all take full advantage of the last and best month of backcountry spring skiing, and the beginning of summer. And the next time you're out on a Mazama activity please seek out your leader and thank them for not just their time, but for giving you the opportunity to gain experience in the mountains. Enjoy and be safe.

Lee Davis Executive Director May/2014—3


Get Connected! tinyurl.com/mazamasFB Keep up on upcoming events, classes, and activities, mountaineering/hiking information, road closures, and other timely issues that impact Mazamas.

Tell us your stories and send us your pictures! From social media to our print publications, we would like to tell as many of our members' stories as possible. Essays, pictures, route conditions, trip reports, instructional or information videos—send them to us at mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org

mazamas.blogspot.com The Mazama Blog is full of posts on training, route conditions, trail information, videos, and much more. We are actively seeking guest bloggers for the blog. If you are interested email sarah@mazamas.org.

issuu.com/mazamas This is the easiest way to view current and past issues of the Mazama Bulletin as well as recent Mazama Annuals. Issues are easy to flip through on laptops and tablets.


Volunteer Opportunities

by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org

Youth Programs Meeting Wednesday, May 7, 7 p.m. Join in the fun and get kids into the mountains! Join us to learn about the ways to get involved with kids this summer; and to plan new activities. Contact kati@mazamas.org to RSVP.

Portland Alpine Fest Wednesday, May 7, 7 p.m. The Portland Alpine Fest Committee is looking for enthusiastic, detail-oriented, event planners (or wanna-be event planners) to join their ranks. To see what the PAF team is all about, join us at a meeting the first Wednesday of the month (upcoming meetings are May 7 and June 4) at 7 p.m., or contact the committee chair, Tim Scott, for more information: timscott.yeah@gmail.com.

Outings Committee Thursday, May 8, 7 p.m. Join the Outings Committee! If you have a passion for travelling and adventure trips, this is your opportunity to put that passion to work as a member of the Mazama Outings Committee. Committee members work with Outing Leaders from conception to wrap-up of trips around the world. The committee also establishes policy for Mazama Outings and provides an excellent information and consulting resource for trip planners. After one year of service on the Outings Committee, members of the committee do not pay Outing fees. After three years of service, you do not pay the fees while you are a Mazama member. Attend the May meeting to learn what we’re all about, or contact Joe Whittington, Outings Chair, for more information: joewhittington@gmail.com.

Teach kids how to belay with Betties360 Saturday, May 17, 8:30 a.m. The Mazamas is partnering with the nonprofit Betties360. Their mission is to inspire confidence, well-being and community in girls through action sports, outdoor adventure and life skill education. A group of Betties360 participants will be coming to the MMC on a Saturday morning to learn basic belay and climbing techniques. We need 3–4 volunteers to help coach the girls. Contact kati@mazamas.org to learn more and to sign up!

Mazamas Forever Friday, May 23, 11 a.m. Join the 6-month task force to explore how the Mazamas can better serve our longtime members. Call Kati Mayfield at the MMC (503-227-2345) for more information.

Mazama Lodge Workday Saturday, May 31, 9 a.m.–3 p.m. at Mazama Lodge The Mazama Lodge is our home at the mountain so come on up and enjoy the beautiful mountain environment and help us keep the lodge in shape. Work day volunteers can come up Friday, May 30 and enjoy dinner and Saturday breakfast at the lodge at no charge. RSVP to Jim Van Lente, vanlentejr@hotmail.com.

Youth Climb Camp Tuesday/Thursday, June 17–26, 6:30–8:30 p.m. Another opportunity to teach kids how to belay! This 5-session course will teach kids (ages 9–17) how to tie in, belay and use proper safety commands. This will be a two week evening class consisting of four two-hour sessions at the MMC, followed by a Saturday at the Source Rock Gym in Vancouver. Contact Kati, kati@mazamas.org, to get involved. Register at: mazamas.org/activities-events/youth-programs/

Climbing Committee Web and Database Guru Ongoing Climbing Committee is looking for somebody with database and web skills to manage leader databases, keep them up to date, and run specific reports as needed. The volunteer will need to be regularly available by email, but will not need to regularly attend Climbing Committee meetings. Contact Climbing Committee Chair Bill McLoughlin, mcloughlinbill6@gmail.com, for more information and to sign up.

MMC Ice Wall Update by Lee Davis Fundraising Update! I'm pleased to report that fundraising for the Ice Climbing Walls is nearly complete having gained $29,000 to date. With only $4,000 left to meet our goal of $33,000 we believe that this fall's Advanced Snow and Ice class as well as the forthcoming 2nd year of the Portland Alpine Festival will be able to use this new wall. We've launched a small campaign to develop a film about the history of climbing at Beacon Rock and soon plan to raise money to refurbish Mazama Lodge and finally solve the parking and safety problem posed by having to cross Highway 26 in the winter to get to the lodge.

Correction: In the 2013 Mazama Annual the Yosemite Outing article was mistakenly attributed to Bill Dewsnap. This article was authored by Katie Foehl. We regret the error.

May/2014—5


Used Equipment Sale 2014 by Kathleen Hahn, Annie McCartney, Lori Coyner, Teresa Redman, Sojo Hendrix, UES Coordinators The Mazama Annual Used Equipment Sale (UES) took place on Friday, March 21, 2014. The MMC auditorium and upstairs rooms were overflowing with great gear from individual sellers; the Mazama Library and Museum; and from retail vendors, The Mountain Shop and REI. Customers started lining up outside the MMC as much as an hour before the sale. Once the doors opened at 5 p.m., the MMC auditorium was full of excited buyers looking for bargains. Our attendance survey volunteers counted nearly 345 non-volunteer customers, with about 60 percent arriving during the first hour for the member and climb class pre-sale. To make room for customers to try on shoes and limit congestion in the auditorium, the sale was expanded to upstairs rooms. The MMC auditorium was overflowing with equipment. There were more climbing hardware, ice axes and ropes for sale than ever before. It wasn’t long before customers with arms full of gear were lined up to check out. Overall, the gross sales were $18,674— not bad for a three-hour sale. To foster BCEP student attendance, the sale was again held on a Friday evening during the first week of class. Students found great prices on ice axes, backpacks, helmets and harnesses to help them prepare for their adventures. Again, there was great attendance by BCEP students. We are especially grateful to REI for increasing the UES visibility by

incorporating an advertisement for the sale in their email bulletin that reaches thousands of REI customers. Many people attending the sale this year learned about it through the REI bulletin. Thanks to the Mountain Shop for participating in the sale as well as donating boots, backpacks, skis, and other gear. The UES is only possible because of the hard work and dedication of its volunteers. Everyone donates time and effort to make the sale a success. A huge thank you to all of our 2014 volunteers! Volunteer Recognition Gear Check-in: Teresa Redman (Team Captain), Ania Wiktorowicz, Tom Davidson, Paul Gerald, Jean Cavanaugh, Walter Keutel, Sue Giordano, Connie Van Dyke, Carole Beauclerk, Marilyn Zigler, Gary Riggs, Bridget Martin, Andrew Sweany, John Andrews, Lynn Lippert, Sharon Birchfield, Ardel Frick, William Emerson, Brendan Dell, Rick Craycraft. Sales Floor Set-up: Brad French (team captain), Shirley Hoehne, Doug Pratt, Rico Micallef, Flora Huber, Sherry Bourdin, Patty Pandzik, David Braem, Karl Langenwalter, Cloudy Sears, Grant Causton, Andrea Olgston, Amad Doratotaj, Kirstin Labuda, Jean Hillebrand, Stephen Hirai, Scott Exo, Rebecca Gundle, Ekaterina Staroseltseva, Lisa Ripps. Special thanks to George Cummings and David Zeps for checking all climbing hardware before the sale.

Accounting: Sojo Hendrix (team captain), Kelly Marlin, Brian Goldman, Lori Coyner Security Special Ops: Kirk Newgard (team captain), Brian Martin, Andy Schiestl, Justin Colquhoun, Mike, Bergeron, Guy Wettstein, Michelle VanKleeck, John Wilson. Sales Floor Rovers: Amad Doratotaj (team captain), Ania Wiktorowicz, Dan Crisp, Daniel Van Rossen, Kristin Bailie, Gary Ballou, George Cummings, David Braem, Cloudy Sears, Sharon Birchfield, Grant Causton, Tom Davidson, Shane Ohara, Ardel Frick, Ken Biehler. Cashiers: Margaret McCarthy (team captain) Jean Cavanaugh, Bianca Pyko, Walter Keutel, Lesley Langan, Gary Riggs, Brendan Dell, Amy Graham, Lynn Lippert, Stephen Hirai. Unsold Gear Sorting/Clean Up: Jim Selby (team captain), Shane Harlson, Andy Schiestl, George Cummings, Gary Riggs, Amad Doratotaj, Sharon Birchfield, Amy Graham, Sojo Hendrix, Stephen Hirai, Rebecca Gundle. Unsold Gear Pick-Up/Clean-up: Kathleen Hahn (team captain), Annie McCartney, Bianca Pyko, Little Llama, Beth Copeland, Leigh Schwarz. Bob Smith and Joey Zarosinski again provided delicious volunteer refreshments. Dyanne Foster and Gary Riggs coordinated our retail vendors. Bianca Pyko entered all seller data. A special thank you goes to Rick Craycraft and Jim Selby for cleaning up and for hauling unsold gear to donation sites such as FISH Emergency Services and the Goodwill.

May/2014—7


Owyhee Canyonlands: A Love Affair by Lacy Turner

M

y introduction to Oregon’s desert country, like all of my best-loved wildernesses in the state, came from my best hiking friend Rodney. I moved to Portland from Sedona, Arizona and complained for years about being a cactus stuck in mushroom land, until Rodney had

my door with an application card for the Mazamas.) In 2000 I drove as far southeast as one can in Oregon to the Owyhee Canyonlands, and fell in love at first hike. My Owyhee reconnaissance began at Three Forks, where the North and Middle Forks of the Owyhee join the main river in a deep, complicated canyon. That first hike I fell for was a rugged slog up Middle Fork’s narrow canyon wherein I waded deep pools with my daypack held up over my head. I had signed on with a group

Company as beaver trappers, were killed near the river by Indians. Three Forks is one of the most remote places in Oregon, in “ION” country, where Idaho, Oregon and Nevada converge. The Owyhee desert ecosystem covers almost 9 million acres across three states, a region so vast and isolated that it’s called the American Outback. Rafters love the Owyhee for its Wild and Scenic River designation and famous rapids. Forks of the Owyhee form a far-reaching network of

from the Northern Rockies (Idaho) Sierra Club. They took me river-walking up the North Fork’s streambed and on the classic Three Forks hike: an old wagon route along the river to hot springs pools surrounded by waterfalls. Sitting in a hot springs pool high above the Owyhee River I learned that “Owyhee” was a 19th-century spelling for Hawaii. The river was named when three Hawaiians, hired by the Hudson’s Bay

deep canyons carved into ancient lava flows. The area is filled with arches and hoodoos, sagebrush deserts and juniper-dotted mountains, and I wanted to explore as much of it as I could on foot. Rodney traveled to the Owyhee with me once, to Three Forks, on what he called the “Saved by the Sheep Trip.” Over a long weekend in June we dealt with rattlesnakes; a tire blowout and a flat; and poison oak that plagued Rodney for six months. Starting home, we saw three Bighorn sheep, still as statues, at the crest of Three Forks Road. (He still turns down my yearly invitations to visit the Honeycombs of the lower Owyhee.) When ONDA’s Owyhee Coordinator, Chris Hansen, posted the Honeycombs Wilderness study Area volunteer outing for June 2013 and let it be known that our

finally had enough. On my birthday in 1993 he showed up at my door with a BLM map (The Burns District South Half), a newsletter from the Oregon Natural Desert Association (ONDA) and a card on which was written: Get the hell out to Oregon’s high desert and stop complaining about being stuck in this amazing state! The Burns District South Half was reduced to tatters the remainder of the ‘90s visiting Steens Mountain, the Alvord Desert, Malheur and Hart Mountain. I hiked on sagebrush-crowded paths, scrambled up dry ridges and found my real Oregon home in the balance of east and west, desert and forest. I met plenty of other Mazamas on ONDA volunteer trips to remove obsolete barbed wire out of Steens and Hart Mountains. (Rodney had also shown up at 8—Mazama Bulletin


work would be hiking and scrambling, the goal therein to “fall in love” with the area, I jumped on it. The dry canyons between the Owyhee Reservoir and Three Fingers Gulch had been on my short list for years, the sort of rugged trail-free hiking that I enjoy the most but would never take on alone. I would finally get to the Honeycombs formations, where over millions of years soft spots in volcanic rock had weathered into holes and niches in gulches lined with color-changing cliffs. Painted Canyon, I just knew, would be the highlight of the trip. We camped at Succor Creek State Natural Area in a menagerie of hikers, rock hounds and ATVs, but we were off all day to deep secluded canyons where no motors were allowed. Our first hike, down Carleton Canyon to the confluence of Painted Canyon and back up, was a scrambler's delight. We slid down dry waterfalls, edged into cliffs and did hand to hand climbing. The canyon bottoms were a maze of six-foot tall sagebrush and gigantic boulders. The play of clouds turned the towering formations orange, purple, red and kept the “honeycomb” cavities in stark relief. A rain shower turned the jeep track into custard and the slippery drive back to camp was, as Chris had promised, “an adventure in itself.” That night back at camp we hatched a new plan: start out late morning the next day and hike into the night. It was the

weekend of the Supermoon, the largest crept up from the ground and played on moon of year. We’d climb up Juniper ridge tops, lit up cliffs of wild pinnacles Gulch in the heat, cool off in the Owyhee and then a path to the big yellow projector Reservoir, picnic at dusk and head into itself above the rim. We stayed into the Timber Gulch after dark for the big moon. chill and finally, almost noiselessly, hiked Real gravel roads led us to Leslie out. Gulch, where 15-million years ago a The Saturday night revelers had long volcano blasted out a basin that filled with gone to bed when we rolled into Succor volcanic ash. The ash hardened to rock Creek campground, the boom box down and flash floods chiseled narrow ravines south was tucked in for the night. It with colorful cliffs, which for hikers means was so quiet I could hear moon-addled that Leslie Gulch is a canyon offering five swallows swoop over the creek. I heated interesting side canyons. One of them, milk and pulled my chair down to the Juniper Gulch, has an actual mile of trail. water. What a night! It was one of those We took it past enormous overhanging serendipitous wilderness surprises, not cliffs to its terminus at a monumental even on my radar until I am smack in the slab of honeycombed rock; then climbed middle of it, like the three Bighorn sheep. out the top of Juniper Gulch to a high The most amazing part of the trip was the plateau view of Steens Mountain on the least expected. I found the balm of desert far horizon. I had read that Timber is solitude with ten other people in a narrow the most beautiful gulch of the four and canyon in the middle of the night. I would undoubtedly concur had I not Resources with better factoids: hiked it at night. The Oregon Natural Desert It is amazing how quiet ten people Association’s new Wild Owyhee website can be in a creek bed in the dark, all is online—wildowyhee.org, click “Getting stepping where the leader has put his There” for directions and maps. feet, climbing up walls where sagebrush ONDA’s online guide to the 800-mile claimed the ground, each pair of eyes on Oregon Desert Trail includes maps, GPS the boot heels in the headlamp’s beam. We followed Chris left past a huge black continued on next page barrier (a 200-foot rock wall, he told us) to canyon’s end in an amphitheater (so he said) where we settled back From left to right: Juniper Gulch, Leslie Gulch Wilderness Study Area. Mazama Barb Engel in on the ground to watch the stars Carlton Canyon. Formations in Painted Canyon. come on. Moon beams on the walls Hiking above Juniper Gulch. Photos: Lacy Turner in front of us stole the show; they May/2014—9


Owyhee Love Affair, continued from previous page

tracks and waypoints, and town information for the 213mile section of the trail in the Owyhee Canyonlands: onda. org. The Oregon Chapter of the Sierra Club features Owyhee information; check out their High Desert Committee’s outings: oregon.sierraclub.org/ conserv/hidsrt/outings.asp William L. Sullivan’s Owyhee hikes in 100 Hikes/ Travel Guide: Eastern Oregon (Leslie Gulch, Coffee Pot Crater and Three Forks) and chapters in Exploring Oregon’s Wild Areas (Upper Owyhee River and Lower Owyhee River) provide a general overview for those of us who like to mark up real books. The BLM offers GPS coordinates and a wealth of maps as part of their Owyhee Canyonlands Wilderness and Wild and Scenic Rivers plan and assessment. (Allow me to echo a line from the Wild Owyhee website: "The time to permanently protect the Owyhee Canyonlands is now.") Driving conditions can be challenging in the Owyhee; a full-size spare tire, towing straps and board for your jack are strongly suggested. I carry water-hiking shoes and an extra pair of hiking boots, snake-bite and first aid kits, use my hiking poles rather than a “snake stick” and keep a 5-gallon container of water in the car. The Owyhee Canyonlands are a scenic wonder year round, but May, June and late September into October are best for decent weather and passable roads. Anyone for night time foray in a canyon off Lesley Gulch Road?

10—Mazama Bulletin

Lodge News Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Amanda Richards 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

With lighter snow fall this year than in the past we have moved up our spring work party to Saturday, May 31. At the current rate of snow melting you can expect summer driving access to the lodge to begin before the end of May. The work party is scheduled from 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Enjoy a complimentary lunch after an honest day`s work. Volunteers are welcome to come up the night before for a free night`s stay with meals or just come Saturday and receive a coupon to come at a later date. As usual we will be getting wood split and stacked with our new hydraulic splitter! The Lost Lake Chuckwagon Weekend is July 25–27. Hike Leader Rick Amodeo will be leading this year`s hike from Timberline Lodge to Lost Lake with an overnight stay at Lost Creek Campground with a Grilled Steak Dinner or a Vegetarian option of Grilled Mushrooms. For more information see page 17. You can also reach Rick at ricka@aaieng. com. May is our slowest month at the lodge. During a typical weekend we host fewer than a dozen guests ... so if you are looking a little solitude, this is the month to visit.

Top: BCEP students do their snow practice inside the warm lodge. Bottom: Guest speaker Jon Bell and family enjoy breakfast with their family dog Bruno. Photos: Charles Barker


How Wind Turbines Can Help Hiking Trails by Jenny Kordick The same solar panels and wind turbines that provide clean energy could improve places to hike, climb and experience the outdoors. Our country is embarking upon a new energy frontier— one that involves cleaner, homegrown sources of energy like wind and solar. Clean energy benefits our climate, health and economy, and, if new legislation passes in Congress, it could benefit outdoor recreation as well. Many of us understand that a shift to renewable energy sources is necessary— but as users and advocates for the outdoors we want to see it proceed in way that doesn’t conflict with our outdoor pursuits and prized natural resources. This is important to address as we see renewable energy rapidly increasing. More solar energy has been installed in the United States in the last 18 months than in the last 30 years. Wind turbines are becoming more common in Oregon and Washington: both states were in the top 10 for wind energy generation last year. While much of this renewable energy boom has happened on private lands and rooftops, the Department of the Interior is beginning to permit renewable energy projects on public lands. Our public lands are no stranger to energy development. Oil and gas drilling has existed for a century, helping address energy needs but bringing

with it adverse environmental impacts and conflict. With new, cleaner forms of energy on public lands, we have a chance to avoid mistakes of the past by being considerate of where projects are built and balancing development with the interests of local residents and other users of public lands. This is why the Public Lands Renewable Energy Development Act was introduced in Congress. This legislation promotes the responsible growth of renewable energy and gives back to recreation and conservation opportunities. For those of us who like to spend our free time on public lands, we place a high value on accessing trailheads, reaching the summit and preserving the land itself. This legislation can enhance our outdoor experiences by devoting millions of dollars to build and repair trails; unlock inaccessible land; and restore fish and wildlife habitat. Funding would come from a portion of royalties the federal government receives from wind and solar projects. Budget constraints make it difficult for state and federal land management agencies to manage trail networks, improve visitor facilities and create access points. The Forest Service, who manages thousands of miles of trails in Oregon, relies heavily on organizations like the Mazamas for maintenance and repair. But even then it’s hard to keep up with the work and the cost is high. Imagine how much more could be done to construct and maintain our favorite

trails with additional funding from renewable energy projects. Take Mt. Hood National Forest—home to Oregon’s quintessential snow covered peak in the heart of the Mt. Hood Wilderness. Large sections of the Timberline Trail, that circles Mt. Hood, are washed out due to erosion and heavy rains. The trail, originally built in the 1930’s by Civilian Conservation Corps work crews, badly needs repairs. But those repairs come with a six figure price tag. More than 1 million people visit Mt. Hood National Forest every year. Investments in repairing popular trails in the state will strengthen our outdoor experience and Oregon’s outdoor recreation economy. Funding from renewable energy projects could also be used to preserve public lands like the Owyhee Canyonlands. The Owyhees are located mostly on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land in southeastern Oregon and extend into both Idaho and Nevada. These remote wildlands include stunning canyons, rivers and mountains and are a mecca for primitive outdoor recreation like hiking, camping, canyoneering and rafting. The rugged Canyonlands in Oregon would benefit from increased funding to help control the spread of invasive species and restore sagebrush habitat. The concept of reinvesting in land and local communities after energy development is a time-honored tradition. For example, a share of revenue from offshore oil and gas development goes

Photo: BLM Oregon Flickr. The Lime Wind Energy Project was the first ever wind project on BLM land in Oregon.

to protecting parks, wildlife refuges and recreation areas at the state and federal level through the Land and Water Conservation Fund. A similar promise should exist for renewable energy. The Mazamas and The Wilderness Society have joined the Outdoor Alliance, Western Governors Association, National Association of Counties and several hunting and fishing groups in supporting the Public Lands Renewable Energy Development Act. The Mazamas own Adam Baylor traveled to D.C. to advocate for the bill last year. This common sense legislation enjoys bi-partisan support, but to pass this legislation in Congress it is important for outdoor enthusiasts who use and rely on public lands to add their voice. If you’d like more information or would like to get involved you can email me at jenny_kordick@tws.org.

May/2014—11


climb leader profile

Joe Whittington Joe Whittington is a Climb Leader, Hike Leader and Outings Committee Chair Residence: West Slope area of Beaverton Hometown: Born and raised in the Portland area When and how did you become involved with the Mazamas? I took Basic School in 1978 when I returned to Portland from active duty with the U.S. Navy. What are your favorite climbs/ hikes? Hard to pick a favorite. I did enjoy climbing the Dogshead route on Mount St. Helens in 1978 and I am very fond of the Mt. Margaret backcountry. Skiing around Crater Lake is a great trip. Favorite trek was in the Mustang region of Nepal. What climbs/hikes are you most looking forward to this year? Completing three peaks over 9,000 feet in the Wallowas. Best climbing memory: Climbing Mt. Rainier with my son and daughter and being on the summit of Mt. Hood the day Mount St. Helens erupted in May 1980. Future climbing goals: Maybe the Oregon County Highpoints. Still working on hiking the Oregon Coast Trail. Favorite piece of gear you won’t leave home without: Pack strap mounted water bottle and trekking poles. SPOT Communicator for solo trips. Guiding principle/philosophy: Stay focused on the best experience for the 12—Mazama Bulletin

group and balance risk versus possible outcomes. Favorite leader treat: Chocolate with nuts. Most influential book: Can't pick just one. Here are three: The Complete Walker by Colin Fletcher; The Snow Leopard by Peter Matthiessen and Annapurna by Maurice Herzog. Favorite quote: If it was easy, everybody would do it. Favorite musician: Nightnoise Favorite movies: Shane and Young Frankenstein. Favorite restaurant: Riverhouse in Pacific City (sadly out of business). I like most any brewpub. Words that best describe you: Steady, calm, curious, attentive. Most treasured possessions: Family, friends and my Miata. Pet peeves: Inattentive and irresponsible people and the things they do. Favorite vacation spot: Someplace I haven't been to yet. When you aren’t on the mountain, where are people likely to find you? Home or traveling. Hobbies other than hiking/climbing: Photography, skiing, reading and working out.

Occupation: Retired Navy intelligence officer, high tech marketing executive, college professor and mountain/trekking guide. You mentioned a goal of climbing all Oregon peaks in excess of 9,000 feet. Tell us how you arrived at this adventure and the current status of the project: Having climbed the Mazama Sixteen Northwest Peaks and summited 49 of the 50 U.S. State Highpoints, I needed a new goal. I was intrigued by a list of Oregon peaks that Kermit Williams published in the October 1994 Bulletin, and a later list compiled by Jeff Howbert. Using Jeff’s list, I identified 31 peaks over 9,000 feet, and set about climbing those that I had not yet summited. I have three peaks left to climb: Cusick Mountain, Elkhorn Peak and Glacier Mountain. All three are listed on the August 2014 climb schedule. Then there are nine peaks over 9,000 feet left to climb in Washington and 20 more Oregon County Highpoints.


Rock Warrior's Way & Access Issues—Presentation Wednesday, May 13 Holman Auditorium 6:30–9 p.m.

Rock Warrior's Way Philosophy

Access Issues: 6:30–7:15 p.m. by Adam Baylor

This portion of the presentation is about responsible recreation with a localized focus on stewardship and conservation. This will help students and volunteers learn about how the synthesis of the following three concepts leads to greater access of public lands. • Peregrine Nesting and Crag Access • Climbing Etiquette and Climber Impact • Stewardship and Conservation

Poor use of attention creates fear, which can manifest itself as anything from performance anxiety to sheer terror. By using attention more purposefully we can understand how fear is created, deal with it effectively and free ourselves to get back in touch with a far more powerful motivating force: our love of climbing. We can then create the kind of unbending intention that leads to outstanding performance. The Rock Warrior’s Way is a revolutionary program for climbers who want to improve both their performance and their enjoyment of climbing.

Rock Warrior's Way Presentation: 7:15–9 p.m. by Jeff Lodas

Share Your Expertise Survey Results by Kati Mayfield, Volunteer Manager In February we asked you to “Share Your Expertise,” through a survey of the same title which asked you to let us know about your volunteer background (at the Mazamas and elsewhere) and about your professional experience. Most non-profits collect a lot of information about the skills and interests of volunteers in a volunteer application, but because the Mazamas hasn’t done this in the past we are missing valuable data about all of our members—aka current and potential volunteers. In an attempt to fill in some of the data gaps, I partnered with the Nominating Committee to develop and promote this survey. Through two iterations of the survey (one last fall and the most recent “Share Your Expertise” survey), we received about 450 responses and gained a great deal of insight! We have already been able to use the data we collected by running queries for

committees looking for volunteers with specific skill sets. Nominating Committee, for example, has been able to identify new people with leadership experience who might be good candidates for Executive Council. Then, members of Education Committee were looking for a list of Mazama members with experience in teaching and training and we found 75 matches. We are also currently seeking a project manager to oversee the installation of the new ice walls at the MMC and we were able to find over 30 people with project management and construction/ contracting experience. I cannot express how valuable it is to have this kind of data about our members. Otherwise, we rely entirely on word-ofmouth recruiting: only discovering that somebody has a skill set or is interested in volunteering if they tell someone (a staff member or another volunteer) directly. In practice, that means that the people who usually take on volunteer roles are already actively volunteering, which means that they give more and more and more … and then get burnt out. What if we could spread the work a bit more evenly,

between more people and to people who have exactly the right skill set for the task? I believe that there are more willing volunteers out there, we just need to know where to find them. And the "Share Your Expertise" survey confirmed this: ONE HUNDRED of the 450 people who responded said that they had NEVER actually volunteered at the Mazamas before, and 90 percent of those people said they are interested in getting started. So let’s get started! In this respect, the survey has already been a big win for the Mazamas. But 450 responses represents under 15 percent of current membership, so I think we should try to get the response rate even higher. THANK YOU to those of you who have responded so far. If you have not, please consider doing so today at tinyurl.com/ shareyourexpertise. Thanks also to our survey sponsors, Climb Max Mountaineering and Columbia who donated raffle prizes. To see a list of the survey prize winners, check out the survey update on our website, http:// mazamas.org/get-involved/share-yourexpertise-survey-results. May/2014—13


The Way Is Through

by Andrew Holman

I

t started simple enough. I always wanted to climb the Sandy Glacier Headwall. Not so much because of the character of the route, but more for its rareness. I like the idea of this little slice of the mountain that is relatively untouched by humans. I like that you can see the route looming on a clear day from Portland. Like many climbs on my tick-list, it just never seemed to “go.” I could never seem to hit the right combination of weather/climbing partners/conditions (conditions, conditions, conditions). Early in the week I had been browsing Mt. Hood forecasts (like you do) and saw that, on Saturday night, there would only be 5 mph winds on the summit! Winds looked to be almost non-existent lower on the mountain. Halfway up the mountain the overnight low was even above freezing! To go completely against my thoughts last month in this publication (where I advocated leaving the tent/bivy sack/etc. at home), I wanted to camp on the Sandy Glacier, then do an up-and-over and come down the South Side. Mainly because it was a long climb and

14—Mazama Bulletin

I wanted to break it up. Actually, that might be a lie; I wanted to get cool photos on a side of the mountain of which I had seen very, very few photos. Specifically, I wanted to do a timelapse sequence at night while we slept. I got to talking with friends, trying to get a hasty Hood team together and, by Friday night, Kai Waldron and I were drinking beers at the Green Dragon talking about how much fun we were going to have over the weekend. Statements such as “I mean, it’ll be great to go up Hood in the warm sun with a good night’s rest. How often do you do that?” were said rather frequently. At 10 a.m. Saturday we were filling our bellies with brunch at Screen Door in Portland, because nothing is worse than being hangry (hungry + angry) on a climb. By noon, we were on our way to Timberline. It was HOT. We stopped and chatted with some BCEP groups to break up the monotony. Just as we were reaching the top of the Palmer, a snowcat topped out a couple minutes ahead of us. There were a few tourists from New York doing the “Wine and Cheese” ride (that’s a thing) to the top of the Palmer. They chatted with us about mountain climbing: “are you going to use that rope?”, “yeah but, how do you attach the rope to the mountain?” “My daughter said Mt. Washington in New Hampshire was taller

than this one. We looked it up, it isn't.” I gave them my ice axe and told them they should pose with it in front the mountain. They felt a little sorry for us and for all the ground we had to cover. They ordered us to gorge on their cheese and fruit; they even insisted that we take the fruit with us (we did both). By about 4:30 p.m. we were at Illumination Saddle staring at the Reid Glacier—finally the stoke was building! What worried us most was finding the mystical spot on Yocum Ridge that made for easy crossing (another reason we schemed to do this part during the day). Some reports said it’s easy to find, some said to not even bother looking, still others doubted its existence. As we looked across the largely-intact Reid Glacier, we could clearly see a snow notch leading up and over in a sea of craggy-choss rock and shark-fin-rime spines. That’s it! It DOES exist! Crossing the Reid was like a walk in the park. Kai had never been on this side of the mountain so I was pointing out all the features like a dorky tour guide. “There’s Leuthold’s!” (quick, precise pointing), “Reid Headwall is somewhere over there” (vague, weatherman gesturing). We started climbing up the side of Yocum Ridge. Snow was solid in the beginning. Eventually we were front pointing on marginal, unprotectable snow, and self-


belaying every single step. We were on our front points for most of the Yocum crossing. Luckily, due to my optimistic look at the forecast, I was wearing my summer mountaineering boots. After the threethousandth or so front point bash, my toes were really starting to get to me. Should’ve taken the much more rigid winter boots, oh

we could finally give them a rest. With waning light we did a quick survey of the glacier and found the flattest spot we could that didn’t look to be near crevasses, nor near debris fields from the rime pinnacles above. There were not many options. We anchored our packs into the slope

The winds had picked up and we’d used every tool and picket we had to anchor in the tent and our packs. I didn’t want to risk waking up with my tripod in an ice cave 3,000 feet below us. I took an ice axe that was securing my side of the tent and used it to bash out some tripod placements in the icy snow and got to shooting. It was a

From left: One of only three photos taken on the climb. Kai frontpointing on his way down to the Sandy Glacier. Our makeshift home on the Sandy Glacier. This is why we climb. Photos: Andrew Holman.

well, live and learn. We grossly underestimated the crossing of Yocum Ridge. What we thought would take an hour, took three. As the sun was setting we were finally down climbing on half an inch of glassy ice backed up by lovely powder snow and nearing the Sandy Glacier. Our calves were busted, but at least

with pickets, took out the shovel and started digging. Kai was making the slope flat and I was tossing the chunks of snow and ice off the side of the slope. In thirty minutes or less we had something resembling a flat platform. We delegated house keeping (Kai was on tent duty, I was the water boy) and got to work so we could rest. “This is why we climb, right Kai!” Kai ate his dehydrated meal in the tent; I ate mine outside, doing laps up and down the slope as I ate to keep warm. I wanted to stay out and get those shots I lugged a tripod up for. I could tell that my ambitious time-lapse idea was not going to happen.

bright night out, the lights of Portland were in full view and the moon was surprisingly illuminating. I was glad I shivered outside in my crampons instead of going inside the tent for my meal, I likely would not have been able to drag myself out again. Somewhat satisfied with my photos, I got in the tent and started to take off my boots, doing that awkward tent-yoga that tweaks bizarre muscles and rouses ancient Charlie horses. They wouldn’t come off. They were frozen solid. Crap. I had heard of this happening before, but never to me. Even then, I had only heard of boots freezing while left out overnight, never on your foot. I fidgeted with them for far too long, eventually they were off and in the tent. Hopefully the Kai-Andrew-SandyGlacier-Snugglefest could thaw them out overnight. The tent was taking shots of debris all night long. I kept thinking to myself this is what insomnia must feel like—never feeling

continued on page 12 May/2014—15


The Way is Through, continued from previous page fully awake, never fully asleep. I just felt like I was micromanaging which parts of my body were to be cold and which to be warm. “Cold feet, ok, now cold hands, ok now my butt feels like a beer cooler ... wow, that’s really hard to warm up, I think it’s just making my hands cold and not really doing anything for my butt, why does your butt need to be warm anyway? I’ve never heard of someone getting frostbite of their butt? *THUD* What was that? Is someone here? Are there other people on the mountain? Is someone talking? My feet are cold again … and damp” *Familiar Cell phone alarm sounds* Finally, let’s just climb.” I woke up and just thought about the steps that needed to happen, the order of operations to turn us from a half-assed camp to a climbing system again. Kai was carrying the tent, so I needed to get moving first. Boots are still frozen! Thanks for nothing Kai, guess our love wasn’t meant to be. We both have the Black Diamond Couloir harness and we both loathe

doubling them back with gloves or cold hands. So our first order of business was to get boots on so we could grab our harnesses out of our packs, get back into the makeshift ice-fall fortress and harness up with supple, naked hands. After harnesses were on, it was time to put on crampons so we could freely walk around the tent and start breaking everything down. After about an hour of cold fidgeting we were finally ready to go up-and-over. We traversed over onto our line up the mountain and did a quick GPS check. “It looks like this is it, we just go straight up.” We were being lightly belted with rime ice during the traverse. As we made our way up the mountain the chunks of ice were getting bigger and faster. What started out as just annoying was beginning to knock us off balance. We were the frogs that didn’t even realize we were slowly being boiled. There were continuous 40+ mph winds the entire time; it was nearly impossible to look up at the route without getting blasted Arriving in the eyes with snow

particles that stung like tiny razor blades. Chunks of ice as big as a fist were falling off the mountain and bouncing off our helmets or bruising our shoulders, hands and knees. We kept thinking things would get better higher on the route, they kept getting worse. It was trench warfare. We anchored ourselves into the mountain, bowed our heads so that our helmets would take most of the impact (many resulting in a high-pitched whine and temporary loss of hearing, the only thing that was missing was Saving Private Ryan-style slow-motion and a gritty blackand-white film treatment) ... as soon as it let up we climbed as fast as we could before hunkering down again and bracing for more impact. There was little time or safety for photos. I snapped a paltry three shots on-route (I usually snap hundreds). We discussed—we had to yell really, because of all the wind—various methods of escape from the route, but agreed the safest way was to make the summit and come down the South Side as originally planned. Retreat would result in more exposure to all

in sunny "Baja, California" Photo: Andrew Holman. Inset: The author on the summit. Photo: Kai Waldron.


the objective hazards we had just endured. I was reminded of a very severe song that described our very severe predicament, The Way is Through. Eventually the route lead to a pinchpoint, the infamous “hour glass” feature mentioned in every guidebook you’ve ever read (usually it’s close to the “obvious notch”). Everything that was coming down the mountain was being funneled through this heinous bottleneck. There was so much particulate matter coming through that it looked like a waterfall made of dry ice. Hunkering down was no longer an option; we had to make a break for it. There were three chutes of equallydubious quality. Kai went far left (“when in doubt, go left” more guidebook sage advice) and was getting blasted so intensely that he down climbed back to the base. I chose the middle chute. I had my choice of 2-inch alpine ice, unconsolidated powder snow on slab rock or frosted Mt. Hood kitty litter. I had my work cut out for me. I sat there, thinking about everything that had led to this moment. I looked down at Kai who seemed to be wondering what the climbing was like. I yelled in monosyllables trying to make myself heard above the howling wind “This is sketchy ... try the chute to the right.” Kai disappeared into the chute. Waiting in this precarious stance wasn’t doing me much good. I only had a Petzl Sum’tec axe in my hand, my ice tool was still on my pack. I did some quick riskanalysis. Get the ice tool out of the pack and risk dropping my pack or possibly plummeting down to the Sandy or go for it with one axe? Go for it. I just kept looking at my feet. Make ‘em good. Stick, stick, axe. Stick, stick, axe. Breathe. Stick, Stick, Axe. Don’t look up. Eventually I was with Kai again. At long last the rime fall was gradually getting less intense while the wind was doing the complete opposite. We must be close to the ridge now, we must. At this point the snow was finally soft enough that we could get off our front points. We were running on fumes. To say that we were pitifully slow would be giving us too much credit. At this point we were stopping for

breaks every 8–10 steps, but we could see the ridge, we could see the sun, it was slowly creeping down to meet us. Gotta get these black, wet gloves into the sun. We topped out onto the ridge and were nearly blown off of our feet; the winds were unreal. I have never experienced such wind anywhere, even while stepping outside during hurricane parties in Florida. I have no idea what the speeds were, but there was a continuous push of at least 60+ mph, if I had to guesstimate. The terrain was easy now, just a walk up the ridge, but we were still doing full-on selfbelays … the wind was that punishing. Occasionally, the wind would turn on a dime, switch direction and we would almost slip. Kai asked me if the ridge got “knifeedgy,” I said, “I don’t think so” (I had climbed Leuthold before, and it was decently walkable). We silently agreed that we may have to crawl to the summit if it was going to be like this the entire time. As we passed the top-out’s of the other routes on the west face, the winds died down dramatically. Before we knew it, we could see the summit and we could not believe it. It was an oasis. There were people. We were through. As we neared the Old Chute we stopped to chat with some climbers going down. “Was it windy on the South Side today?” “Oh hell yeah it was.” “We were almost blown off the mountain, we are so glad to be here.” “Don’t worry bro, the summit is like Baaajaaaa, California!” At the summit we threw off our packs, ate some frozen strawberries, and nursed a beer-slushy I had brought up from a craft brewery in my native Tampa (thanks Mom!). We chatted with two hardmen that just came up from the North Face Gully and generally enjoyed being alive. We descended back down the familiar Old Chute, past the usual landmarks, the fumeroles, the hogsback, Crater Rock, top of the Palmer and moved our paper from “out” to “in.” We had BBQ in Zigzag. It was one of the best things I’ve ever tasted. I have trust issues with forecasts.

Lost Lake Chuckwagon Weekend: July 25–27, 2014 Come and join us for the ‘throwback’ Mazama hiking event of the year with the best weather possible! Like the good ol' days, we will enjoy the wonderful cooking skills of the Mazama Lodge staff and hike the superb trails from Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge to the beautiful Lost Lake Campground via the most famous old-time trails in Oregon (PCT, Timberline Trail, Skyline Trail). Total distance is approximately 26 miles and you won’t mind the total elevation gain of around 4,000 ft. Cost of the event is $140 for members and $175 for non-members. Note that the transportation cost is around 40 percent of the budget. A carpool will be available to take you up and back to the Mazama Lodge if you prefer. For more information, or to sign up, go to mazamas.org/lodge, or email Rick Amodeo at ricka@ aaieng.com with questions. Itinerary: Friday night we will arrive at the Mazama Lodge and have a delicious dinner (around 7 p.m.) and meet our fellow hikers. On Saturday separate hiking groups will get transported to Timberline Lodge where we will start our hike westward toward Paradise Park and continue downhill toward Zigzag Mountain for lunch along Burnt Lake, where you can dip into the refreshing water. After lunch we continue down to the Lost Creek Campground, where we will find our gear (tents, sleeping bags, etc.) waiting for us, along with a chuckwagon dinner by the Lodge grillmasters. Pack your favorite beverage to enjoy. Sunday after a filling breakfast, we will go as a large group old-style (since we will not be in the MH Wilderness) and start at Top Spur, cross Lolo Pass, and follow the Bull Run area boundary to the Lost Lake General Store, where beer buying is optional! The Lodge vans will take us back to the Mazama Lodge for some snacks and head for home.

May/2014—17


Adventure Travel OUTINGS—LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2014/2015

Corsica Long-Distance Hiking June 14–30 The GR20, 125 miles along the crest of the island of Corsica, is a rocky and varying high route with scrambling options and both alpine and ocean views. Using a local company as outfitters, we will carry only day packs and sleep in refuges or set tents, enjoying simple local cuisine at group meals. Sixteen days of hiking, with the longest day being 13 miles and 3,300 foot ascent, and highest altitude 7,300 feet. Trip leader speaks French and both leader and assistant have led European tours and hiked long-distance trails. Group size 8–10. Outing costs $3,000, plus airfare. $500 deposit. Leader: Eugene Lewins (eugene.lewins@ gmail.com), Assistant Leader: Kathleen Hahn.

Chamonix—Mt. Blanc Climbing July 7–21 Full/Alternates Only. Contact Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org (leader) or Lisa Brady, pdxlisab@gmail.com (assistant leader) for more details.

Lassen National Park Outing Aug. 16–23 Lassen National Park is located in northern California. The park was originally two separate national monuments (Lassen and Cinder Cone) in 1907 and were combined into a single national park in 1916. From 1914 to 1917, Lassen threw clouds of steam and ash thousands of feet into the air, with the most notable eruption occurring in May 1915. There will be an assortment of A and B level day-hiking during the six days. Wildlife sightings, wildflowers, rugged terrain and mountain lakes await you. Attention will given to the history of the park; topographic features; and the flora and fauna we encounter. The group site will be at Shingletown KOA (13 miles west of Lassen) and we will carpool to the trailheads. The cost of the trip is $150 for members and $210 for nonmembers. KOA offers tent sites, RV hookups and three types of cabins. Campsite/lodging expenses are not included in the cost. The group size will be limited to 24 people, including the leaders, Richard Getgen and Robert Smith. Contact Richard at 503-5988788 for an application. There will be a preouting meeting in the spring for participants to meet and receive additional information.

18—Mazama Bulletin

Hiking and Touring in Tuscany and Cinque Terre

Grand Canyon Trek

Aug. 31–Sept. 12

Join us as we go rim-to-rim in the Grand Canyon. Our 64-mile trek will begin on the North Rim as we descend beside lovely Bright Angel Creek. Then we will go off the beaten path and travel to Clear Creek where we will spend a day off trail to either Cheyava Falls or a descent to the Colorado River. Then we will retrace our steps and continue our journey along Bright Angel Creek, visiting the Phantom Ranch before crossing the Colorado River and ascending to Indian Gardens. We will then wrap up our trip with a westward traverse on the Tonto Trail before ascending the Hermit Trail to the South Rim at Hermit's Rest Trailhead. Temperatures may still top 80 in the Canyon in October and will approach freezing at night near the rim. The 5–6 participants should be in good physical condition and have completed at least one 50+ mile hike and be prepared to travel up to 15 miles a day. Cost includes all fees and transportation to and from Las Vegas as well as a night's lodging in Las Vegas. The itinerary is tentative pending permits from the National Park Service which should be in hand by mid-to-late June. The cost of the outing will be approximately $670–$820 and excludes airfare. Contact the leader, Gary Bishop (gbish90@ hotmail.com) for more information.

Full/Alternates Only. See information in the February Bulletin.

2014 Exploring Utah’s National Parks Sep. 28–Oct. 12 Join us on a fifteen-day camping and hiking outing to Utah’s desert parks. Visit Aches, Canyonlands, Natural Bridges, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef and Zion national parks. Meet in Moab, Utah on the afternoon of Sep. 28. Either fly to Salt Lake City and rent a car or drive from Portland. First stop: Arches national park and the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands. Then south to the Needles district, with spectacular sandstone pillars. Day 6: Drive to Natural Bridges national park for an afternoon and camping overnight. The next day travel to Capitol Reef national park for three days/two nights in campground, and one night in backcounty camp (car accessible). Then follow historic Burr Trail Road to Boulder, where we overnight. The following day, on to Bryce Canyon national park for an afternoon of hiking; overnight in campground. Finally we end our journey with three days and nights in spectacular Zion National Park. Participants should be able to carry a light pack on slickrock terrain with occasional exposed traversing and easy scrambling. A variety on hikes will be offered at A to B levels. Costs: estimated $595 to $435 for group size of 6 to 15 (including leaders). Camping and Mazama fees included. Participants responsible for transportation, food and park entry costs. Fees in excess of actual campsites’ cost will be refunded. A $100 deposit due June 15, 2014. Contact, Bob Breivogel, leader, 503-297-4284, breivog@teleport.com or Bob Smith, co-leader, 503-682-8711, rzs.vyg@frontier.com.

Oct.10–17, 2014

Kilimanjaro—A Route Less Taken Feb. 7–19, 2015 From jungle mists to the glacial cap of Kilimanjaro, learn about and experience the flora and fauna of the many climatic zones of this part of the world as we ascend to the highest summit in Africa. While on the summit, enjoy the 360-degree view of a little known continent and look down to the Olduvai Gorge where our tool-making ancestors evolved. Our ascent to the summit is along the little climbed Lemosho and Western Breach route. Less than one percent of summit attempts are made along this route since it includes 4th class climbing. As we trek through the low lands we will learn about different cultural and social norms of various indigenous ethnic groups. If we choose to spend a night in the crater, we will explore the remaining glaciers and the crater of Kilimanjaro. We begin our African journey in Moshi, often considered the cleanest town in Tanzania, where we will begin to learn the culture and society of local inhabitants as well as our support people. Local diets and new foods can be explored as well as clothing and dried goods when visiting the local market. Good local hotels will allow us to rest and sleep to overcome our long air journey to Moshi.


Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.

Following our many days of trekking and climbing we return to Moshi and either head home or extend our time in this part of Africa by joining a safari. Such an optional trip might include Olduvai Gorge, the Serengeti and or Ngorongoro Crater. In-country cost for this unique trip range from $3,800–$4,300 per person depending upon number of participants while airfare from Portland is currently around $2,500. Airfare can vary widely depending upon routes and accommodations. Leaders: Paul Steger, 503-998-6188, (PaulSteger@q.com) and Eric Hoem, 503-3413996, (erichoem@comcast.net). Deposit $500 due by September 15, 2014.

Donovan Pacholl, Jim Ronning and Erik Jones as they trek across the desert in Jordan during a Mazama Outing.

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May/2014—19


Time Warp by Jack Grauer

Did you ever wonder about the Mazamas that came before you? In this column information from past Bulletins and Annuals is compiled for you to get a glimpse into our rich history. If this piques your interest, you can read old Bulletins and Annuals in the Mazama Library.

1965—50 Years Ago News came from Seattle of the death of W. M. Price, 89, who was one of the founders of the Seattle Mountaineers and a former member of The Mazamas. Bill Wessinger was elected president of the Portland Chamber of Commerce. Mabel McPherson was enchanting friends with stories about her recent trip to Africa. She stayed at Treetops, a hotel built in the branches of two trees, enabling animals to peek in the windows. First ascents are rare and becoming rarer. Reports were made of Mazama climbers who had made four first ascents in 1963: (1) The Tottering Tower in the Apocalypse Needles near The Dalles by Eugene Dod and Bob Martin; (2) Mount Tunari in Bolivia by Ed Dennison and two Peace Corps associates; (3) North Tower of Devil’s Tooth in the Seven Devils in Idaho. Jim Angell, Don Eastman, Barbara Engel, Ron Johson and Don Sharp; (4) Mount Newton in the St. Elias Range on the Alaska-Yukon, Canada line. Mazamas Bill Hackett and Jack L. Henry were part of the seven-man crew. Others were Leader William “Smoke” Blanchard, Monte Alford, Dr. Edward Keller, Roy Johnson, and Franklin Coale.

Research Grants This year the Research Committee reviewed 22 proposals submitted. Seven grants were awarded for a total of $16,000. Standard: For experience researchers. • Ditto, Benjamin and Yosemite Climbing Stewards. Recovering the Peregrine: A Documentary Film. • Koch, Johannes and Rieidel, Jon. Brandon University and North Cascades National Park: Holocene glacier fluctuations in the Olympic Mountains. Graduate: For university post graduates. • Chiapella, Ariana. Portland State University. Evaluating the effects of trout invasions on the distribution of contaminates in Mt. Hood's high elevation lakes. • DeGiulio, Jennifer. Oregon State University. Magma degassing and the role of volatiles in explosive

Cascade volcanism: Mt. Jefferson, Oregon. • Lerner, Allan. Oregon State University. Tracking the volatile evolution of magma chambers using zircon-hosted melt inclusions: Indonesian and Cascadian case studies. • Sweeney, Kirstin. University of Oregon. Examining holocene despositional patterns and glacial inputs of a young fluvial system, high Cascades, Oregon. • Theobald, Elinore. University of Washington. Life at the limit: the impact of climate change on plants and their pollinators at Mt. Rainier National Park (Washington).

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1914—100 Years Ago 1914 was a hot year for volcanos. Mt. Lassen, in Northern California, blew its top in May and continued its eruptions through July. On July 18, Edward Boyce and H. E. Brown took the railroad to Red Bluff and drove an automobile past Mineral Springs to McKenzie’s ranch. Boyce described the road as excellent. From there, they rode horses across a low range to the base of Mount Lassen. They found geysers there, similar to those in Yellowstone Park. On the evening of July 20, they stopped at the Kelly ranch and rode the next morning to Devil’s Hole, where many small geysers simmered. At noon, they ate lunch and began a two-hour climb to Mount Lassen’s water-filled crater below four encircling summits. The first eruption had occurred in the center of the lake and threw rocks and ash up 300 feet to penetrate the roof of a forestry station on the NE peak. Boyce and Brown spent hours of observation and discussion with others to learn the intricate movements of this active volcano. They felt well rewarded for their trip. It would be 66 years before another mountain had a heated tantrum—Mount St. Helens. 20—Mazama Bulletin

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Youth Climb Camp— Register Today! Get geared up for the second annual summer Youth Climb Camp at the Mazamas! This 5–session course will teach kids (ages 9–17) how to tie in, belay, and use proper safety commands. This will be a two-week evening class consisting of four two-hour sessions at the MMC, followed by a Saturday at the Source Rock Gym in Vancouver.

Schedule

• Session 1: Tuesday, June 17 • Session 2: Thursday, June 19 • Session 3: Tuesday, June 24 • Session 4: Thursday, June 26 • Session 5: Saturday June 28

(Sessions 1–4 are 6:30-8:30 p.m. at the MMC, session 5 is 9 a.m.–Noon at The Source) Cost: $50 for the camp (including the Saturday session at the Source) Sign-up: mazamas.org/activities-events/ youth-programs/ Kids at all experience levels are welcomed! Please contact Kati Mayfield, kati@ mazamas.org or 503-227-2345 if you have any questions, and/or if you’d like to help out as a volunteer!

ASI '14 Do you want to climb ice? How about the north face of mount anything? Sure you do. And not like some gripped poseur, but like a boss! Anyone can top rope a frozen waterfall. You want more: advanced rope work and anchor-building skills, highangle alpine travel techniques, advanced crevasse-rescue technique, small team high angle rescue skills, and yes, beginning ice climbing technique. Sign up for Advanced Snow and Ice 2014. We’re accepting applications April 19–May 19. See mazamas.org/educationclasses/advanced-snow-and-ice/ for details.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS October 13, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Jon Major, Asst: Jonathan Myers. Sandee Myers, Helene Simon March 22, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek. Leader: Michael Hortsch, Asst: Tancred Creagh. Chris Salaz, Mark Stave

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March 22, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Craig Martin, Asst: Patrice Cook. Amanda Crochet, Brad Hupy

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May/2014—21


little steps lead to BIG STEPS

Mazama Families The Families group has adopted the mantra “Little steps lead to big steps,” as it so perfectly captures the essence of our approach to teaching our kids how to enjoy the outdoors. We are looking to build on small accomplishments and culminate in having our kids eventually become Mazama members themselves, as well as foster the next generation of hike and climb leaders. For now, we take the approach that a good day is when our kids want to go back for more hiking, climbing, or camping. Before we know it, an active outdoor lifestyle will be part of the family narrative. Join us for an activity or three this summer! Along this theme, the Mazama Families organized its first official hike last month, a 4-mile loop in Tryon Creek State Park. It was a rousing success, with eight adults and ten kids starting and completing the walk. The weather and wildflowers were beautiful, and all had a fun morning. While we have a whole host of hikes, classes, and even climbs now available for sign-up at mazamafamilies.org, we would like to draw attention to a sample of upcoming activities and important events.

May—Kids' Climbing Technique Class In this three week class, kids will learn the basics of footwork, handholds, balance, graceful movement, and more. These classes are intended for climbers of all abilities, ages 8 and up, and attendance is limited to 6 kids. Harnesses for kids are available, though having your own climbing shoes is recommended. Classes take place Tuesdays, May 13, 20 and 27, 4–6 p.m., at the MMC. Participation is $80 per child. Email families@mazamas.org for additional questions or register here: http://tinyurl.com/ Movement-Class-May2014. Saturday, May 10—Kids Conditioning Hike Kids Conditioning Hikes are a series of three sequentially harder hikes designed to prepare kids for a summer climb. Hike #1 will be Wahkeena Falls to the Wahkeena Spring. Just 30 minutes outside of Portland, this hike follows Wahkeena Creek starting near the 272-foot cascading falls off Hwy. 30 up to the spring, where the water source for Wahkeena Creek and the falls comes out of the ground. Bob Murphy, hike leader, 3.2 miles, 1,440 ft. elevation gain. Intended for kids 8 and older accompanied by their parents with a pace to complete the hike in 3–4 hours. Please register today at http:// tinyurl.com/wahkeena-5-10-14.

Wednesday, May 14—Committee Meeting Anyone interested in helping the Families group move forward is welcome to our committee meeting. We will gather at MMC (check the lobby schedule for the room location) from 6:30–7:30 p.m. Agenda items will include approving the minutes from our last meeting, hearing sub-committee reports, and discussing ideas to enhance participation in our hiking, climbing and skillbuilders. July 19—2nd Annual Rooster Rock BBQ and Climb Besides getting to eat the most enjoyable grub, kids will climb on a fixed line with an assistant ascending alongside for coaching and safety. At the summit, either a parent or one of the approved assistants will spider rappel the children back to terra firma. Registration is available now. Email Craig Martin at cmci.construct@gmail.com for more information and to register. To learn more and sign up for other upcoming activities, including hikes for toddlers, our last Family Climb Night at the MMC until the fall, our quarterly series of conditioning hikes preparing parents and children for a South Sisters Hike-to-theSummit, visit mazamafamilies.org and/or join our email list at families@mazamas.org. We look forward to seeing you outside!

The Inaugural Tryon Creek State Park Hike. Photo: Taken by a passing hiker.

22—Mazama Bulletin


Old Timers 25 years or more of Mazama membership

We lead a wide variety of year round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

Tuesday, May 6 at 10 a.m. at the Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden Beat the Mother’s Day crowd at the Rhododendron Garden and also enter for free (no fee on Tuesday). We will meet at the entrance at 10 a.m. at 6015 SE 28th, and break out into smaller groups. Feel free to bring your camera and wander. Some may choose to hike in the Reed College canyon. We’ll meet for lunch at noon on the second floor of Jade Bistro, Teahouse, and Patisserie, 7912 SE 13th Ave. If you are coming to lunch please RSVP to Kate Evans at kateevans97@gmail.com or 503635-6540. Task Force Meeting Friday, May 23 at 11 a.m., MMC, Room 3 Are you interested in helping to develop activities for folks who want to hike, climb, backpack, etc, at a more leisurely pace? The Task Force to re-imagine the Old Timers is open to all who are interested, whether you are a 25-year member or not. In our first two meetings we discussed who the Old Timers are and how to expand participation and serve the group’s needs. At May’s meeting we will continue this conversation, plus develop a mission statement, and talk about a name change and summer events. Please bring a lunch to our 11 a.m. meeting in Room 3 at the MMC. If you have any questions please contact Kate Evans, the Executive Council liaison to the committee, at kateevans97@ gmail.com or 503-635-6540

Saturday, May 31 Hike to Dry Creek Falls This 5.4 mile hike is also listed as a Trail Trips hike; the pace will be 1.5 miles per hour. Since there is only 710 feet gain, this would be a relaxed pace. Perhaps we will find some fairy slipper flowers. The trail follows the PCT from Cascade Locks to the creek where we then follow a dirt road a short distance to a lovely waterfall where we will eat lunch. This is an out and back hike. At one time, Dry Creek was a water source for the town of Cascade Locks, but given its name, I suspect that it was not very suitable. Upon our return to the cars, those who wish can gather at Charburger Restaurant for coffee or whatever. Hopefully the remodel of the main floor will be done by then and we can enjoy the wonderful view from the upstairs windows. There will be a $2 hiking fee for each person since this is a Trail Trips hike, too. We will leave from Gateway Park and Ride at 9 a.m. so get there a few minutes early to arrange carpools. The drive to Cascade Locks is about 35 miles each way. Since this is not in a Wilderness Area, there is no group size limit. Leader: Diana Forester (5032887782) Call if you have any questions. July 5 Potluck at Dick and Jane Miller’s Good news! The very generous Millers will be hosting their 5th of July potluck at their home again. See more information in the June Bulletin.

May/2014—23


Brainless Child WI5+ X 5.9 East Face Mt. Thielsen, March 22, 2014

Probable first ascent of East face by Stephen Elder “Obsession: The domination of one's thoughts or feelings by a persistent idea or desire.”

I

believe many alpinists suffer from an obsession or two and I am certainly no exception. My interest with Mt. Thielsen began way back in 1990 when I procured a copy of Jeff Thomas's guide to the Oregon Cascades, Oregon High. The entry about the McLaughlin Memorial Route piqued my interest, but my main preoccupation was that there simply had to be a good winter route on that side of the mountain. Twenty years later and interest had morphed into the obsession that culminated in this route. Obviously I am no longer a spring chicken—more like a burned out capon surrounded

by much younger roosters. However, with the spirit staying young far longer than the body, any excuses of age were simply ignored, at least until the post-climb recovery stage. Being a pilot and owner of a small plane, I have been able to observe both the North and East faces since around the end of 2010. This enabled me to see possible lines, and also just how quickly they both come into and out of condition. The first trip in February 2011 with Kevin Russel had me probing weaknesses all around the northeast buttress, north face and northwest ridge. The mountain was very out of condition on that trip and nothing much of interest came out of it. The next trip in December 2011 with Tyler Adams and Bill Amos also ended in no real climbing, but we did circumnavigate the entire mountain and saw first hand

the gully that was to become the final objective. However, it was really windy and cold that day and even starting the route was out of the question. The next trip was a solo trip in January 2012 that resulted in a new line on the north face that joined the McLaughlin route where it butts into the final upper headwall. Arriving at the base of the north face before sunrise, I cooled my heels waiting to see what would show itself. In the gradually improving light I saw an amazing white streak heading skywards right above me. After free soloing the initial 700 ft. of “snice” over steep slabs and a couple of short, vertical to overhanging ice sections, I roped up for a short wall of aid that was to lead to easy ground and the top. Unfortunately a seemingly good rock knob broke under body weight and I free fell about 20 feet, ripping out the two old bolts that I had found and clipped. After landing in a screaming heap in

Left: Brainless Child route. Photo: Stephen Elder. Below: The author leading the first pitch. Photo: Tyler Adams.

24—Mazama Bulletin


the rocks below, I bounced and slid a further overhang and does not touch down. Second, 20 feet down an East face gully before coming we did not know for sure if the gully had a to a stop upside down on my back, looking viable exit as it narrows at the top and it was up along the taut rope at the remains of my not possible to see from the air if it would go. belay. I would love to say I was not deterred, The first problem proved to be a simple choice but alas, I was extremely bruised and could of going left or go right up rock. I chose the hardly move my right shoulder. I knew right-side option, which yielded a really nice retreating down the route of ascent was about 240 foot pitch of steep 5.9 climbing on fairly as attractive a proposition as blindly jumping, solid rock with the tools largely shouldered as anchors were simply not available. With except for a couple of moves. The first belay my aerial knowledge of the east face, I made was just to the right of the ice gully with the decision to head down that direction. I mediocre rock gear. The second 220 ft. pitch knew which of the three main gullies on the began with a thin steep ice curtain followed face I needed to get into (the biggest one on by pleasant 3+ ice with a couple of steeper the right side of steps, but few the face), and screw placements, after a number of to another rock sketchy rappels belay on the right. and a lot of I chose this spot to very steep down shelter the belayer climbing, I was rather than for about 300 feet convenience, as from the lower the left side would snow slopes and have been a nice safety. After a screw belay but rappel on a snow very exposed to bollard, and a falling ice, and full-rope-length, the ice pellets free-hanging and chunks were rappel off two starting to come tied-off knife down in earnest blades over a by this point. The huge overhung belay consisted of a cave, I was safely couple of Specters, off the mountain. a pin and a cam. The obsession The following lay somewhat pitch began up the quenched and right side under a dormant for two bulge that was by long years but now dripping and was inevitably running profusely. rekindled by On the second looking through attempt, I got a Crux 4th pitch. Photo: Stephen Elder some of the old screw in, but it aerial photos. did not inspire After two more much confidence, reconnaissance flights in early 2014, I was for the ensuing traverse left onto a curtain in full-blown relapse as the east face route of vertical, soft ice. Unable to get any more looked in the best shape I'd seen it so far. I screw placements, I had to run it out to the made a quick call to Tyler, and we agreed to next belay about 120 feet later. Both of us got drive down a day after the final flight. Starting thoroughly soaked on this pitch, and Tyler from the car at 1:30 a.m., we snowshoed up arrived with his hood and pack flap full to the trail (we ditched the snowshoes at the overflowing with ice particles. This belay was intersection with the PCT), and post-holed on the left with another pin and several fairly around the west, north and east faces to arrive good cams. at the base of the route around 8 a.m. There The fourth pitch did not look that hard were still two unknowns concerning the route; but it proved to be the crux of the route. first, we did not know how we were going The warm temperatures were having their to reach the first ice as it cascades over an way with the ice now, and the climbing was

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Brainless Child, continued from previous page delicate, insecure and amazing. Starting out as about grade 3+, the difficulties continued to get harder as the protection became sketchier. I managed to get one good cam on the left fairly low, then the only other pro on the 120 foot pitch was a protruding flat-topped rock with no real lip to retain the sling. After a quick glance down at Tyler, I committed to the final 5+ bulge, being very careful with both tool and crampon placements. No real swing was required. I simply reached really high, placed the tool and gently pulled it down until it stopped. Then I played a soft base tune on the hollow curtain with my crampons, took a breath and moved up. The ice pellets raining down were coming in waves like spindrift on steroids, and seemed to coincide with crux moves. Once over this final bulge, the gully mellowed, and I was able to find the best belay of the route in rock to the right. Two great #2 cams and a backup knife blade enabled me to finally belay Tyler directly off the anchor instead of my harness. The following two pitches were about 240 ft. each, with short bulges to keep it interesting. The second bulge would have been a fun 3+ if the ice had still been

climbable, but it was by now a partially detached shield on a steep rock slab and running with water. I chose to climb the rock to the right and the section had some fun 5.8 moves with reasonable protection. This brought us into the final upper snow gully, where we simul-climbed with a picket in between us. Tyler was up front when I glanced up and saw some very large rocks heading his way. I yelled a warning to him and he took off diagonally up the slope like a gremlin heading for a candy store. He almost made it, but caught the largest rock above his knee before diving into a protected cave. Meanwhile, down below I was able to dodge everything and climbed up to Tyler. After discovering that he was badly bruised but basically OK, we continued on the final 300 feet or so to the summit ridge. Interestingly, this was the only rock fall all day and there was no telltale signs of rocks in the snow slopes below the route. Our second concern about the route proved groundless as the gully was indeed continuous all the way through. Another few hours and we were back at the car after the most amazing day in the mountains that I've had in a long time.

Tyler approaching the second belay. Photo: Stephen Elder

Spend five days trekking a remote Bedouin trail to the ancient city of Petra. Additional nights in the desert of Wadi Rum and Amman. Ranked by National Geographic as one of the 15 best hikes in the world, this trip is supported. You do not have to carry any gear. Contact Donovan Pacholl for the full itinerary.

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Go Hiking! Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to members and nonmembers alike. Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/hike AYM is also Hiking: Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activities-events/aym Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Jim Selby at 828-508-5094 with any questions. To lead a hike in May, log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www.mazamas2.org.

HK B2 May 02 (Fri) Wind Mountain. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Nice, short and steep. Near Dog Mountain. Great gorge viewpoint complete with Indian pits. 2.7 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. 94 MMC 8:30 a.m. MU HK A2 May 03 (Sat) Wahclella, Elowah/ Upper McCord, and Triple Falls. Joe Whittington joewhittington@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. This is a sampler of the best in Columbia River Gorge Waterfalls. Three segments of 2.0, 2.6, and 4.4 miles. We'll start at Wahclella and work our way west. Please e-mail leader if you plan to go. 9.0 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 80 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 May 04 (Sun) Crescent Mountain. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@ gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Walk along a quaint creek then climb up through subalpine meadows to a stunning viewpoint atop this Old Cascades Crest peak. 9 miles 2,200 ft. Dr. 150 Public Parking Lot at 2nd and B Ave in Corvallis 7:30 a.m. HK C2 May 04 (Sun) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35. Margaret Smith 503-720-6795. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Hopefully we will enjoy a 5 mountain vista. 10.4 miles 2,975 ft. Dr. 136 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 May 03 (Sat) Wahkeena-Angels Rest. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Enjoy Wahkeena's waterfalls with lots of water in them, then through early spring flowers over to Angels Rest. Lunch on Angels rest, then down to the Angels Rest trailhead. Really fun hike for late April. Steady but leisurely pace. 6.4 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

TT May 04 (Sun) Bell Creek Trail Tending. Richard Pope 503-860-8789. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Brushing and minor log clearing on this connector trail from Oneonta to Horsetail Creek hiking in from Larch Mt. All tools provided, bring boots and gloves. Currently full, alternates only. 6 miles 1000 ft. Dr. 60 Call leader 8 a.m.

HK B2 May 03 (Sat) Kings Jr. - Kings Mountain. Barry O'Mahony barry.coyotecreekranch@gmail. com. Nice hike to the summit of a Coast Range favorite, using the lesser-used, steep, "Coronary Ridge" route to the summit of Kings Mtn. Jr., and then on to the main summit. Return to the trailhead via the main route. 5.4 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 76 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK A2 May 05 (Mon) Tualatin Wildlife Refuge. Bill Middleton 503-625-4827. 6 mile ramble through one of the largest urban wildlife refuges. 6 miles Level ft. Dr. 0. Meet at refuge 7 a.m.

HK C2 May 03 (Sat) Hunchback Mt.(Great Pyramid). Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Woodsy steep uphill hike starting at Zig Zag ranger station, then along the ridge to a unique viewpoint. 9 miles 3,060 ft. Dr. 76 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK A2 May 04 (Sun) Herman Creek-PCT. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. This hike uses a shuttle. We start at the Herman Creek TH, hike along the Herman Creek Bridge Trail to join up with the PCT and go to Cascade Locks. On the way we visit both Pacific Falls and Dry Creek Falls, as well as the interesting Hermann Creek Pinnacles. 6.2 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 82 TH gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B1.5 May 04 (Sun) Dog Mountain Loop. Ursula Edlund 503-235-8059. Wildflowers if the time is right. Dog Mtn. has breathtaking views of the Columbia Gorge. Up the steep scenic route (and we will go easy with stops), lunch on top and down the gentler way. 7.2 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 May 07 (Wed) Archer Mountain Cruzzat Rim and Arrow Point. Tom Davidson tedclimbs@ gmail.com. Bring your sense of adventure and explore this area above Happy Valley across from Multnomah Falls. The Mazamas used to lead many hikes in this beautiful area which millions see as they drive on I-84 but few have ever hiked. There are commanding views of the whole Gorge. Primitive trails and , difficult footing. So bring good boots and poles and remember that the winds blow in this area of the Gorge so dress accordingly. We';ll go by such places as St. Cloud Point, Cable Creek, Pancake Ledges, and Eagle Point as we enjoy great views across to the Oregon side of the Gorge 8 miles 1,900 ft. Dr. 63 MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A2 May 09 (Fri) Dry Creek Falls. This out and back hike goes on the PCT from Cascade Locks on a nice forested trail to Dry Creek Falls. There should be spring flowers along the trail and a rushing falls at Dry Creek Falls. We may stop at Cascade Locks for refreshments before heading back. 5.4 miles 710 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 9 a.m. MU HK B2 May 10 (Sat) Wahkeena-Devils Rest Loop. Deborah Gant gant.deb@gmail.com. Beautiful Gorge hike! Old growth trees, waterfalls, cascading Wahkeena Creek with nice views of the gorge along the way. We will stop at the Devil's Rest

Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule. Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. The group leaves REI promptly at 6 p.m. Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMC Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat. Total time two hours. 5 miles, 500 feet Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd and Stark). Group leaves the MMC promptly at 6 p.m. viewpoint for lunch, loop onto the Foxglove trail and stop at Wahkeena Spring before heading back down the trail to our cars. 9.5 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 May 10 (Sat) Windy Dog. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. First we'll climb the Dog where we can expect to enjoy the beautiful May flowers. Then on to Wind Mt. and the historic archaeological and cultural sites. Great gorge views throughout. 9.9 miles 4,000 ft. Dr. 104 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 May 11 (Sun) Wahclella, McCord, and Elowah Falls. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail. com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. This hike is a combination of two short hikes which will take us to see three falls as well as an interesting cliffside overlook. 5 miles 980 ft. Dr. 70 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK C2 May 14 (Wed) Cook-Augsperger Traverse. Tom Davidson tedclimbs@gmail.com. This is better than Dog Mtn. Great views to the north (up to Mt. Rainier) as well as to the south. We'll hike up Cook, traverse along the summit ridge then continue to Augsperger along a trail marked by tin can lids. This is all not official trails but they are in good shape. Remember, however, that the winds hit this area first so come prepared. This will be a long day but worth the effort if the weather cooperates. 12 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 110 MMC 7:30 a.m. MU

continued on page 28 May/2014—27


Mazama Trail Trips Meetup Group Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and reminders of hikes you have RSVPd for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips now has a number of their hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at http://www.meetup.com/mazama-hiking/

HK A2 May 17 (Sat) McIntyre Ridge—Wildcat Mountain. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Stunning views of Mt. Hood and the Willamette Valley. Flowers should be plentiful. 7.5 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 80 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2 May 17 (Sat) Eagle Creek—Cross Over Falls. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Popular hike in the George with easy access from Portland. We will wander up the Eagle Creek trail passing half a dozen waterfalls, crossing the High Bridge and continuing until we reach Cross Over Falls (just past Tunnel Falls). Have lunch and then head back for the cars. Remember to bring food, snacks, water, including the 10 essentials. Contact leader or first come, first served up to wilderness limit. 12.6 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK C2 May 17 (Sat) Huckleberry Mt. (Boulder Ridge). Deborah Gant gant.deb@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Views include the usual suspects—Mts. Hood, Jefferson and St. Helens plus Hunchback and West Zigzag. The top has a sub-alpine look where beautiful wildflowers will

hopefully add to our delight. Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness. Water is scarce on this trail so bring plenty. Wear sturdy hiking boots/trail shoes. 10.6 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 72 StatePark Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 May 18 (Sun) Forest Park Loop. Mark Sanzone msanzone@yahoo.com. Meet at Springville Rd TH off Skyline Blvd. 1/2 day hike, done by noon. 503-679-0962 5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 None 9 a.m. HK B2 May 18 (Sun) East Zig Zag Mountain (Burnt Lake). Tom Davidson tedclimbs@gmail. com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. How about some early spring views of Mt. Hood from highup on the west side. We travel through a beautiful forest to Burnt Lake and the up we go maybe into snow but early beargrass and wildflowers to a great lunch spot for views of Mt. Hood. Bring poles, gaiters and clothing layers—who knows what weather we'll get. 8.4 miles 2,271 ft. Dr. 96 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU

Backpack to the Enchanted Valley (Olympics): May 30–June 1 Most people would rate this as their best backpack in the Olympics. Enchanting. Babbling brooks, lush forests, waterfalls plunging down sheer walls and an abundance of wildlife including marmots, deer, elk and black bears. This popular hike leads up to an alpine basin with a historic chalet. Total of 13 miles (one way) and 2,000 ft. of elevation gained with two overnight camps Sound like something you might want to backpack to—come along—only 10 people total. To get more information and/or to apply, contact Tom Davidson (tedclimbs@gmail.com)

Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory. Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft– Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

28—Mazama Bulletin

Happy hikers on their way back from Indian Point in the Columbia River Gorge. Photo: Rex Breunsbach


HK C2 May 18 (Sun) North Lake via Wyeth Trail. Regis Krug 503-704-6442/regis_krug@ mentor.com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Wilderness Area—Size Limit.. Just west of Mt. Defiance, this trail is steep and long, rising 3,800 feet in 5.7 miles to North Lake. It's surrounded by thick forest and is quite isolated. This is an excellent conditioning hike. Be prepared for snow, rain, or both. 13.2 miles 4,160 ft. Dr. 88 TH Contact leader to sign up for this hike. 7 a.m. MU HK C2 May 19 (Mon) Silver Star Mountain (Grouse Vista). Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Up past Sturgeon and Pyramid rock to the summit of 4,309-foot high Silver Star mountain. Second highest peak in Southwest Washington. Great 360 degree views. 7.5 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 70 MMC 8 a.m. HK C2 May 21 (Wed) Ruckel Ridge-Ruckel Creek Loop. Tom Davidson tedclimjbs@gmail. com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Ruckel Ridge is a fun and challenging conditioner year-round, but the variable Spring weather only add to the adventure factor and maybe allow for early wildflowers . This hike involves travel on rough, steep, sometimes exposed trail in slippery conditions, Poles are recommended and plenty of energyproducing snacks. 9.6 miles 3,800 ft. Dr. 74 TH MMC 7:30 a.m. MU HK A2 May 23 (Fri) Marys Peak. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail. com. Walk through wildflower meadows on Marys Peak. We'll hike up the east ridge to the summit, then explore the pleasant Meadows Edge loop before heading back down. 7.4 miles 1530 ft. Dr. 40 TH Public Parking Lot at 2nd and B Ave in Corvallis 8 9 a.m. MU HK A1.5 May 24 (Sat) Wauna Viewpoint Hike. Carolyn Jenkins 503-422-6456. A hike with a nice Columbia River Gorge view from our destination. The trail loops us over the Eagle Creek bridge and returns us along a bit of the historic old highway. Some poison oak likely near the trail. 5.7 miles 900 ft. Dr. 66 TH Gateway 9 a.m. HK B2 May 24 (Sat) Dog Mountain. David Nelson 503-657-4058. Popular Gorge hike due to easy access, beautiful views, and short drive from Portland. We will go up the more challenging, center trail and back down the east trail. This is a late spring hike; however, please be prepared for any and all conditions, including driving wind. Bring food, snacks, water and 10 essentials. 7 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 May 28 (Wed) Dog Mountain Wildflowers in Bloom. Tom Davidson tedclimbs@gmail. com. This is the day—the flowers will be out, the weather will cooperate, the views will be wonderful, all the hikers will bring treats to share while we laze on the summit. Let's make it all happen. Up Augsberger and down the scenic east side 7.2 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 98 TH MMC 8 a.m. MU HK B2 May 30 (Fri) Oswald West State Park Hike. William O'Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Hike Oswald West State Park from North to South including Cape Falcon/ Short Sand Beach/Neahkahnie Mtn. Breath in some salty air and enjoy beautiful ocean views from the state park named after the Governor who 100 years ago passed thru legislation proclaiming Oregon's Coast be public domain. The hike involves a car shuttle. 11.5 miles 2,250 ft. Dr. Approx 79 miles one way. StatePark Target/ SW185th 7:30 a.m. HK A1.5 May 31 (Sat) Dry Creek Falls. Diana Forester 503-288-7782. An easy hike to a lovely waterfall. We will have lunch at the falls, and for those who wish, we will have coffee or whatever afterwards at Charburger Restaurant. 5.4 miles 710 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 9 a.m. HK B1.5 May 31 (Sat) Cape Lookout. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Two coastal hikes in one: hike out to the point to look at the ocean from above, then back to the south beach to dip your toes in the water. 10 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 148 TH Target/185th 8 a.m. HK C2 May 31 (Sat) Rock of Ages Loop. Brett Nair 503-847-9550. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. This is a hard but fantastic hike with great views and wonderful things to see. We'll take the easy way. Its the same way as the hard way, but easy. 10.6 miles 3,500 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Jun 01 (Sun) Angels Rest. Jim Selby 828508-5094. A evening hike to Angels with stunning views and stunning late spring wildflowers. Eat a snack on top and still get back to Gateway by 8:30 p.m.. 4.6 miles 1,584 ft. Dr. 42 Gateway 4:30 p.m. MU

Membership Benefits Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15% The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals Mountaineers Books Save 20%. Get the code on the Mazama website in the members section. Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10% Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% non-sale items only Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly priced memberships Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularly priced items Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, Ore.) 10% Rock and Ice Magazine Annual subscription 40% off. Go to Mazama website for code. U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%

HK C2 May 24 (Sat) Nesmith Point. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Wilderness Area—Size Limit. Up, up and away! Plenty of switchbacks with some river and mountain views along the way. Great vista just past the point to include Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens. But what goes up must comedown, and down 9.8 miles 3,800 ft. Dr. 66 Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 May 25 (Sun) Lucia and Moulton Falls. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. We go later in the morning to see both Falls with the sun hitting them. Wildflowers, Lewis River views, birds, back by 4:30 p.m. 5.5 miles 200 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 11 a.m. MU

May/2014—29


Welcome New Mazamas! Jon Bork—Grand Teton Cameron Brown— Mt. Hood Mariah Bruns—Old Snowy Richard Dyer—Mt. Rainier Will Gadd—Mt. Hood Evelyn Johnson—Mt. St. Helens Will Koons—Mt Hood Michael Linn—Mt. St. Helens Danielle Marshall—Mt. Adams David Martin—Mt. Hood Waltravd Martin—Mt. Adams

Michael Meronek—Mt. St. Helens Travis Moles—Mt. St. Helens Matt Renfree—Mt. Hood Aaron Rogers—Mt. St. Helens Kaitlin Rupert—Mt. St Helens Andrew Schafer—Mt. Hood Ryan Turner—Mt. Hartzell, Canada James Wallace—Mt. Rainier Tom Whitney—Mt. Olympus Mark Wilson—South Sister

Reinstatements John Benecki (2001), David J. Church (2006), Jon Daby (2006), Abhishek Dhanotia (2013), Thomas Flaherty (2010), Samson Garner (2012), Sabina Grover (2013), Dennis Kuhnle (1968), Wes McNamara (1983), William Perdue (2003), Jaime Placeres (2013), Laurie Rieschel (2005), Art Scevola (1998), Merrill Schneider (1990), Tamiko Stone (2012), Natalie Todd-Zebell (2009), Shannon Walls (2007)

NEW REINSTATED DECEASED

March 31, 2013: 3,209 March 31, 2014: 3,234

Deceased Peter Heitkemper (1970)

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21 17 1

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Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) A Mazama committee providing support services to Mazamas. If you or your group have had a traumatic experience contact the Mazama office (503-227-2345) or Marina Wynton. All debriefs conducted through CISM are confidential.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)

Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.

SMALL GROUP TOURS OF TURKEY. Competitive prices, fully escorted, meals included. http://turkey.cascolytravel.com

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

HIKE HIGHPOINTS, UT, CO, AZ, NM. Road trip. Late July 2014, share driving. Interested? David Zeps. davidz24130@gmail.com

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazama Bulletin is printed on recycled paper with 10 percent post-consumer content. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

DENALI EXPEDITON 2015 Looking for serious minded climbers interested in joining a small private climb team on Denali in May/ June 2015. Contact Steven Wagoner 503-939-0496, evermore89@ msn.com HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

30—Mazama Bulletin


Executive Council Minutes Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Bronson Potter–President; Sojo Hendrix–Vice-President; Terry Donahe– Treasurer; Meg Goldberg-Secretary; Judith Baker, Heather Campbell, Kate Evans, Joan Zuber. Lee Davis, Executive Director. Absent: Amy Mendenhall Sojo Hendrix, chairing, called the meeting to order at 6:30 p.m. The minutes of the March 11, 2014 meeting minutes were approved. Membership Report: Oral report by Meg Goldberg. There were 21 applications for membership, 17 reinstatements, 0 resignations, and 1 deceased (Peter Heitkemper (1970) with a net change of 37 members. Total membership as of March 31, 2014 was 3,234 showing a net increase of 25 members since March 31, 2013 Treasurer’s Report: Filed for audit. New Business Diane Girard, Insurance Broker, Durham and Bates: Diane Girard updated council on the changes to the existing insurance premiums and recommendations for two additional policies. The current estimated annual premium increase is $2638 for the 2014-15 year. Diane recommends that Mazamas acquire 1. “hired and non-owned auto liability” in amount of $1,000,000 limit at the estimated cost of $2,988 plus $339.47 in taxes and fees and 2. “Sexual abuse and Misconduct” coverage in the amount of option 1–$3M or option 2–$1M. Bronson Potter moves that the Mazamas acquire auto and the option 1 sexual abuse/misconduct polices. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Motion approved. Executive Director’s Report: Oral Report by Lee Davis. Lee’s complete report is

April 8, 2014

available for the membership on page 3. Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted: • Annual Celebration • Conservation • Education • Governing Docs • Library • Lodge • Nominating Committee Bronson Potter moved to accept the consent agenda. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. Regular Committee Reports Lodge: Lodge requests $12,500 for purchase of a log splitter ($1,200), AED ($500), a Pellet Stove ($3,800), and painting the exterior sprinkler pipes and metal stairway to basement ($7,000). Heather Campbell moves to approve $8,700 for lodge capital expenses for the log splitter, AED and painting. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Motion approved. Council requests Lodge to furnish more specifics on the costs of the pellet stove, permits, installation, and inspection and bring back to Council. Publications: Kristie Perry, new chair for publications introduced herself to council and asked to be approved as new chair for the committee. Judith Baker moved to approve Kristie as new publications chair. Motion seconded. Motion approved. Action: Passed. Research: Committee requests approval of use of $16,000 from the Research Committee budget. See page 20 for details on projects funded. New Business Mazama Families: Bob Murphy and John Rettig: The Mazama Families Committee is requesting that Council approve the “Age Requirements for Mazamas Physical Activities.” Risk Management reviewed

MAZAMA Bulletin

and recommended the policy. The Climb Committee also reviewed it. The policy was reviewed by Governing Documents and rejected. Families Committee brought the proposed policy to Council since final approval authority for new or revised Policies and Procedures is Executive Council. It was determined that Governing Documents review is limited to Title selection and assuring that basic requirements and style guidelines are met. Bronson Potter moves to approve the Age Requirements for Mazamas Physical Activities Policy. The motion was seconded. The motion was amended to include a one year sunset to provide for a mandatory review. The amended motion was seconded. Motion approved. Action: Passed. Respect Now Update: Kati Mayfield, Volunteer Manager, reported that the “respect now” task force has met twice and is working on crafting a code of conduct based on core values and a disciplinary plan. The next task force meeting is set for April 24, 2014. Summer Intern: Kati Mayfield requests approval for a $2,500 stipend for a summer intern. This stipend will come from the development budget. Judith Baker moves to approve $2,500 stipend for a summer intern. Motion seconded. Motion approved. Action: Passed. Draft 990 and Financial Review: Motion by Judith Baker to approve financial statement and filing of 990. Motion seconded. Motion approved. Action: Passed. Mid-Year EC Retreat: Lee Davis. The mid-year EC retreat is scheduled for April 19, 2014 from 8-5:30 at 415 W. 6th St. Vancouver, WA. Meeting adjourned at 9 p.m. Next Executive Council Meeting: Tuesday May 13, 2014 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.

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May/2014—31


May 30 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Lonnie Dupre, arctic explorer, climber and advocate comes to the Mazamas to share his knowledge and adventures from some of the planet's most extreme environments. Extreme Cold Weather Expedition Class: 3–6 p.m. Learn about clothing systems, foot and handwear systems, stoves, tents and snowcaves, dual use of equipment, electronics, food, and safety for extreme cold expeditions and camping. $42 for members and $59 for non-members (includes admission to the film). Film and Presentation: 7 p.m. A multipmedia presentation by Lonnie Dupre will include the PNW premier of Cold Love, a film that reveals the fragile beauty of these hostile and extreme environments. You can watch the trailer on our blog—mazamas.blogspot.com. $10 members/$16 nonmembers. Plus: At the presentation, learn the biggest news in Mazama Expeditions in decades, and find out how it could change your adventures. Sign up now— mazamas.org/education-classes/clinics-and-special-presentations/


Mazama Bulletin - May 2014