Kāʻanapali Magazine - Fall/Winter 2015-2016

WH E R E T HE W ORL D COM E S T O P L AY

FALL/WINTER 2015-2016 q YOUR FREE ISSUE

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Seasonal Whale Watching*

Maui’s Best Snorkeling

DINNER & SUNSET SAILS

Romantic Trade Wind Sail Assorted Gourmet Pupus, Antipasto Platter, Meatballs, Soft Drinks and Cocktails Dinner: Chicken, Fish & Salad

WEST MAUI SNORKEL SAIL

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WHALE WATCHING

*December 15th through April 15th 4 Daily Whale Watches Experienced Naturalist on-board Hydrophone to hear the whales sing Sunset Whale Watches too!

Deluxe Snorkel, Whale Watch & Evening Sails Departing Daily from Kaanapali Beach

Fun for the entire family

Catered by award winning chef Paris Nabavi

Convenient loading from Kaanapali Beach

Call to Reserve Your Seats Now!

808-667-2704

All cruises depart from Kaanapali Beach fronting Leilani’s Restaurant.

Please visit www.teralani.net

(CURRENT - for reference)

Reservations: (808)667-0124 *Tuesday - Sunday

Our Waterfall Collection comes in several styles and sizes and is available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold

MAUI KAANAPALI: Whalers Village, 808-667-5411 • Hyatt Regency Maui, 808-667-7780 LAHAINA: 744 Front Street, across from the seawall, 808-661-5965 858 Front Street, across from Bubba Gump, 808-661-1219 • Lahaina Cannery, 808-661-1731 WAILEA: The Shops at Wailea, Upper level, 808-891-8040 • Grand Wailea Resort, 808-879-8336 KAHULUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 808-893-2110

NaHoku.com • 1-800-260-3912

�able of �ontents FEATURES Awhirl over Maui 26

Sightseeing reaches new heights with Blue Hawaiian.

Kā‘anapali Every Which Way 34 Five perfect itineraries for families, lovebirds, thrill-seekers, culture hounds, and those pursuing utter relaxation

Breadfruit 42

A Hawaiian delicacy of the past may be the food of the future.

If these Stones Could Talk 48

Hawaiian culture finds spirit in every part of nature; even stones have divine power.

Solar Eclipse 68

Spa treatments that soothe away the sunburn

Tasty Greens 70

Roy’s Golf Classic teams up with the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival.

Hula o nā Keiki 72

Ancient Hawaiians were a Stone Age culture, but their technology was cutting edge. See story on page 48.

8 Kā‘anapali Magazine

On our cover: Ease into a hammock beneath coconut palms and listen to the soundtrack of the surf. If that doesn’t sway you, we have other suggestions for finding your perfect Kā‘anapali. See story on page 34.

Photo courtesy of the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa

NINA KUNA

The contestants may be children, but this is serious competition—judged by some of the most respected teachers of Hawaiian culture.

MARY ANNE FITCH MAUI’S #1 REALTOR® 2014 Representing Maui’s Most Distinctive Oceanfront, Ocean View and Golf Course Addresses

Plantation Estates at Kapalua

“Moemalie” Magnificent 23-Acre Estate in Kula

Kaanapali Golf Estates

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NAM L. LE VIET

OWNER - REALTOR®(S)

Phone (808) 283-9007

mauisold.com • RS-61810

MARY ANNE FITCH OWNER - PRINCIPAL BROKER®

Phone (808) 250-1583

soldmaui.com

RB-15474 500 Bay Drive, Kapalua, HI 96761

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room takes a refreshing new angle on salads, craft brews and more.

Did we whet your appetite?

See story on page 52.

Contributors 14

We’re pleased to introduce some of the talented folks behind Kā‘anapali Magazine.

A Word from the President 16

Meet Thomas Bell, president of Hawaiian Hotels & Resorts and current president of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association.

Where . . . ? 18

Keep our resort map handy and find what you’re looking for.

DINING Nīele 20

A pool boy who waded into beachfront entrepreneurship . . . the Royal Lahaina’s ambassador of aloha . . . great shopping finds and where we found ‘em . . . if we’ve sparked your nīele (curiosity), read on!

See Learn Do 74

Looking for adventures by land or sea? Hawaiian culture or island history? Whatever activities you’re into, you’ve come to the right place.

Calendar 80

Check here for special events and resort activities that don’t come along every day, plus a few of our favorite happenings around Maui.

10 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room 52

Craft brews enhance a well-executed menu.

In the Kitchen 58

A conversation with Maui Fish & Pasta’s Chef Alex Stanislaw

Grab & Go 60

Need ingredients for a picnic or a snack for the road? At Kā‘anapali, you can take it with you.

Dining Guide 62

Hungry? Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it at Kā‘anapali, just a beach walk away.

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ADMINISTRATIVE

Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association PUBLISHER

Haynes Publishing Group MANAGING EDITOR

Lehia Apana

CONSULTING EDITOR

Rita Goldman

ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER

John Giordani

ASSISTANT DESIGNER

Shelby Lynch

DIGITAL EDITOR

Adelle Lennox STYLE EDITOR

Conn Brattain CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER

Kao Kushner

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lehia Apana, Martha Bloomquist, Jill Engledow, Rita Goldman, Teya Penniman, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Lehia Apana, Bob Bangerter, Conn Brattain, Cesere Brothers, John Giordani, Mieko Horikoshi, Nina Kuna, Peter Liu, Jason Moore, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere DISTRIBUTION & CIRCULATION

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. ADVERTISING SALES (808)

242-8331

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Michael Haynes, Laura Lewark E-MAIL ADDRESS info@mauimagazine.net

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, & The Shops at Wailea magazines

KĀ‘ANAPALI MAGAZINE is published semiannually by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc.,

90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ©2015 All rights reserved.

This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. Printed in USA Individual issues are available upon written request to Haynes Publishing Group, Inc., 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793, or by email: Orders@KaanapaliMagazine.com. Cost is $3 per magazine plus postage ($5.60 in the U.S. & Canada). Payments in U.S. currency only.

Kā‘anapali Magazine is produced in cooperation with Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association.

12 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Whalers Village 808-661-6806

The Shops at Wailea 808-874-4900

Contributors

Lehia Apana

Martha Bloomquist

A Maui native and eternal nomad, Lehia has lived in some of the world’s great cities, including Chicago, Rome and Sydney. Now firmly planted on Maui, Lehia has been writing about the island for nearly a decade.

When she’s not flexing her literary muscles as managing editor at Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi and Kā‘anapali magazines, she can be found surfing or training for her next triathlon.

A foodie from way back, Marti has lived in West Maui for over ten years and is a frequent contributor to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

An intrepid world traveler, she is always on the lookout for the next great food trend and yet-tobe-discovered taste sensation.

Jill Engledow

An award-winning writer specializing in Maui history, Jill moved to the island in 1968. After seventeen years as a reporter and editor at The Maui News, she wrote The Maui News 1900–2000: 100 Years as Maui’s Newspaper.

Her books include Island Life 101: A Newcomer’s Guide to Hawai‘i, and Haleakalā: A History of the Maui Mountain. Her first novel, The Island Decides, is available on Amazon.com.

Mieko Horikoshi

Equal parts foodie and photographer, Mieko finds that the island’s culinary scene serves as a constant— and delicious—muse.

She is a member of the Professional Photographers of America and the American Society of Media Photographers. Born and raised in Japan, Mieko moved to Maui in 1994, where she lives with her two daughters.

Nina Kuna

Originally from the West Coast, Nina studied and worked the bicoastal circuit in New York and San Francisco before landing in her permanent home of Maui with a BFA in photography from Parsons School of Design. Happy to call Maui her home, she also nurtures her love of design with an eponymous collection of jewelry.

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14 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Jason Moore

With his deep love for the ocean, it’s no wonder photographer Jason Moore calls Hawai‘i’s waters home. Jason spends the winter working with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) as a research and rescue assistant for humpback whale research. When he’s not in the water or shooting on location, Jason shows his photography at Diamond Head Gallery on Front St. in Lahaina.

Teya Penniman

Teya first got hooked on island life and the waters around them working as a seabird biologist on a remote arctic sandspit.

More islands and more bird studies followed, until her focus shifted to protecting and writing about native places. Her article on the Royal Lahaina’s Gil Sablas reveals that she’s pretty adept at depicting island people, too.

Sunny VerMaas Principal Broker/ Realtor/ePro/TRC 808.283.0141 SunnyOnMaui@aol.com

Sarah Ruppenthal Sarah is an awardwinning journalist, freelance writer and instructor at University of Hawai‘i–Maui College. Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, FLUX, Hawai‘i Magazine, The Maui News and other regional publications. When she’s not grading papers or working on a story, Sarah is relaxing at home on Maui’s north shore with her husband, and 135-pound “puppy,” Odie.

Becky Speere

The daughter of a Hawai‘i-born mother of Japanese ancestry and a father from an Alabama coalmining town, Becky grew up on the Big Island amid a world of flavors: butter beans and ham hocks, bamboo shoots, fiddlehead ferns and wild-boar sausage.

The former owner of Pa‘uwela Cafe in Ha‘ikū, Becky is a chef consultant and shares her passion for all things culinary as dining editor of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

Shannon Wianecki

Shannon is an awardwinning freelance writer who grew up in Hawai‘i and succumbed entirely to its charms. When she isn’t busy writing about rare and endangered plants or particularly fascinating local characters, she’s out looking for them with her four-legged sidekick, Spike. Follow her adventures on Twitter: @swianecki.

John Kevan Vacation Property Management Sales/Realtor(S) 808.283.9790 JKevan@gmail.com

Maui Paradise Properties, LLC, is a full-service sales and vacation rental management company, and has become a leader in West Maui. We are what you expect of a company founded by professionals who have been among the best in sales and marketing in Hawai‘i for over 30 years.

Please visit our website: www.MauiParadiseProperties.com

Our mission is to provide clients with premier service at competitive rates, and ALWAYS service with aloha!

Live your Dream—Make it Maui Maui Paradise Properties, LLC • 727 Wainee Street, Suite 206, Lahaina • 808.661.1535

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 15

Letter from the

KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION

Aloha

As president of the Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association, I am pleased to welcome you to our latest issue of Kā‘anapali Magazine. Inside, you’ll find intriguing articles meant to entertain and to engage you in the magic of our world-class destination.

For example, where else but in these pages could you find a compelling story about stones? “If these Stones Could Talk” explores the history and importance of that element in Hawaiian culture, and shares legends of Moemoe, Wahine O Manua, Pu‘u Keka‘a and other significant stones—many of them right here at the resort.

We often say that Kā‘anapali is the place “Where the World Comes to Play.” The article “Kā‘anapali Every Which Way” proves that point, offering itineraries tailored to different types of travelers: those seeking adventure, romance, culture, rejuvenation, and family fun. Then again, why limit yourself to just one?

Of course, here in the subtropics, exploring everything under the sun can put you a bit too much in the pink. So it’s good to know that many of Kā‘anapali’s spas offer treatments to soothe your skin and help it heal. Learn more in the story “Solar Eclipse.”

In this issue we also delve into the resort’s partnership with the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival. What began in 2014 as a fledgling collaboration with that popular Honolulubased festival has blossomed into a weekend of star-studded celebrity-chef events held only at Kā‘anapali. Festivities kick off September 4 with the eighteenth annual Roy’s Golf Classic. Hosted by Chef Roy Yamaguchi, this mainstay golf tournament benefits Imua Family Services, a local nonprofit that provides vital services to children with special needs, and to their families. The weekend culminates with the signature finale dinner on the Hyatt Regency Maui’s oceanfront lawn. For details, visit HawaiiFoodAndWine.com.

Hungry for more? This issue features our newest beachfront restaurant, Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room; introduces Chef Alex Stanislaw of Maui Fish & Pasta; and provides a roundup of venues throughout the resort that offer grab-and-go items for a picnic on the beach, dining on your lānai, or snacks to fuel your adventures around Maui.

We are confident that you will fall in love with Kā‘anapali Beach Resort. We hope you’ll enjoy reading Kā‘anapali Magazine cover to cover, and invite you to take it with you as a souvenir from what we know will be a dream vacation for you and your loved ones.

We also encourage you to visit KaanapaliResort.com for at-your-fingertips information, photography, rates, and more. Please let us know if we can assist you in any way during your Maui visit. May the memories from this vacation bring you back for years to come!

Mahalo,

Tom Bell President, Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association Back issues of Kā‘anapali Magazine are available online.

Go to MauiMagazine.net/ Kaanapali and click the link “Free Digital Edition.”

16 Kā‘anapali Magazine

As the brilliant orange of the setting sun flares across the Pacific, the sound of a conch shell fills the air.

Drums beat rhythmically. The evening is primed for magic.

Here on the shores of legendary Kā‘anapali Beach, Maui’s favorite and longest running oceanfront luau takes you on a magical journey through time and space.

From a sumptuous traditional Hawaiian buffet to a dazzling celebration of music, song and dance, you will be spellbound as performers weave authentic myths of Hawai‘i, Tahiti and Samoa into one of the most unforgettable evenings ever!

Experience the Legend Call 808-661-9119 for Reservations & Information

2780 kekaa drive • lahaina, maui, hawaii 96761 • 1-800-22-aloha • www.royallahaina.com

Resort Map P

Pu‘ukoli‘i Road

Honoapi’ilani Highway

A

30

B

Keka’a

Drive

D



Kai Ala Drive

C

Q

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Beachwalk

NORTH

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Hotels & Condos

A. The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas B. Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas C. Royal Lahaina Resort D. Maui Eldorado KaanapaliSM by Outrigger® E. Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa F. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel G. Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach H. The Westin Maui Resort & Spa I. Kaanapali Alii Resort J. Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club K. Hyatt Residence Club L. Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa M. Kā‘anapali Royal

Spas & Salons

Alii Spa (I) Beauty of Aloha Spa & Salon (F) Hale Mana Wellness Center (J) Heavenly Spa by Westin* (H) Hina Mana Salon & Spa (G) Kamaha‘o, a Marilyn Monroe Spa* (L) The Spa at Black Rock* (E) Spa Helani, a Heavenly Spa by Westin* (A) * Full spa (wet and dry therapies)

18 Kā’anapali Magazine

Beach Activities of Maui Locations: Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club Royal Lahaina Resort Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

Dining

Beach Bar (H) Beach Walk Kau Kau to Go (J) Black Rock Kitchen (E) Castaway Café (B) China Bowl (X) CJ’s Deli & Diner (X) Cliff Dive Grill (E) Colonnade Café (H) Hank’s Haute Dogs (E) Honolulu Coffee Company (L) Hula Grill & Barefoot Bar (W) Island Press Coffee (X) Japengo (L) Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room (J) Kai Ala Market (A) Leilani’s on the Beach (W) Mai Tai Bar (E) Maui Fish & Pasta (W) Ocean Pool Bar & Grill (A) Pailolo Bar & Grill (A)

Paradise Grill (V) Pūlehu, an Italian Grill (A) Pu‘ukoli‘i General Store (A) Relish Burger Bistro (H) Relish Oceanside (H) Round Table Pizza (X) Roy’s Kā‘anapali (N) Royal Ocean Terrace Restaurant & Lounge (C) Royal Scoop (C) Sangrita Grill + Cantina (X) Sea Dogs Snack Bar (H) Starbucks (J) Swan Court Breakfast/ Son'z Steakhouse (L) Teppan-yaki Dan (E) Tiki Bar & Grill (F) Tiki Terrace Restaurant (F) ‘Ūmalu (L) Whalers Village Food Court (W) Wiki Grinds (E)

R

Activities

Your concierge will be happy to provide a full list of resortwide attractions. Here’s a sample:

Beach Activities of Maui (S) Kā‘anapali Golf Courses Clubhouse (N) Kā‘anapali Surf Club (H) Kahekili Park & Keka‘a Beach (Q) Kupanaha Magic Dinner Theater (F) Skyline Eco Adventures (O) Sugar Cane Train’s Pu‘ukoli‘i Station (P) Sunset Cliff Dive Ceremony (R) UFO Parasail (T) Whaling Museum (U)

Lu¯‘au

Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au (L) Legends of Kā‘anapali Lū‘au (F) Maui Nui Lū‘au at Black Rock (E) The Myths of Maui Lū‘au (C) Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au (H)

Kā’anapali Beach Resort Association Keka ’a

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Drive

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Kā’a na

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Shopping W. Whalers Village Shopping Center APPAREL Billabong Blue Ginger Blue Ginger Kids Cinnamon Girl Crazy Shirts Cruise Flip Flop Shops Honolua Surf Co. Hula Honeys Jams World Kahala Kate Spade Lani’s Lululemon Athletica Louis Vuitton Maggie Coulombe Malibu Shirts Maui Resort Wear Maui WaterWear PacSun Quiksilver/Roxy Rip Curl Soul Lei T-Shirt Factory Tommy Bahama Tori Richard Volcom

ay

JEWELRY Baron & Leeds Dolphin Galleries Jewelry Glass Mango Design Jessica’s Gems Maui Divers Jewelry Na Hoku Pandora Pearl Factory Swarovski Crystals Whalers Fine Jewelry SUNDRY ABC Stores GIFT, ART, SPECIALTY Brighton Collectibles Chapel Hats Crystal Rainbows Honolulu Cookie Company Island Cutie Martin & MacArthur Oakley Sand People Sandal Tree Sephora

rive

ai D ea K

H

Noh

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Sunglass Hut Totally Hawaiian Gift Gallery The Walking Company SERVICES Maui Dive & Surf on the Beach REAL ESTATE Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club Whalers Realty Inc.

SPECIALTY FOOD Häagen-Dazs Island Vintage Coffee Surfy Turtle Shave Ice & Smoothies Yogurtland FOOD COURT Fresh . . . Eat Well, Live Well Joey’s Kitchen Nikki’s Pizza Subway

X. Fairway Shops at Kā‘anapali Artistic Nails & Spa China Bowl CJ’s Deli & Diner Edward Jones The Hair Hale Harris Hawaii Realty Island Attitudes Furnishings & Design Island Press Coffee OneMain Financial Round Table Pizza

Sangrita Grill + Cantina Skyline Eco Adventures The Snorkel Store Spa Juva & FitExpress Urgent Care West Maui Valley Isle Fitness Center VanQuaethem Chiropractic Wells Fargo Home Mortgage Whalers General Store Whalers Realty

Royal Trading Company ~ C The Shops at the Hyatt ~ L Shops at Westin Maui ~ H

Public Parking

Medical Services

Beach Access

Kā‘anapali Trolley

Kā‘anapali Trolley Tel: (808) 667-0648 Kā‘anapali area only. Travel complimentary among Kā‘anapali hotels, golf course, Whalers Village Shopping Center, and Fairway Shops.

ADA lifts. Runs from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Maui Public Transit (Roberts) Shuttle Tel: (808) 871-4838 From Whalers Village Shopping Center in Kā‘anapali, ride to Kapalua Resort, Lahaina Cannery Mall or Wharf Cinema Center in Lahaina, or Walmart/Kmart in Kahului. $1–$2 between each point (Call for details.)

DISTANCES

Hyatt to Golf Course........................... 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Whalers Village..................... 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Sheraton................................ 1 Mile Sheraton to Golf Course..................... 1 Mile Hyatt to Royal Lahaina........................ 1.5 Miles Royal Lahaina to Golf Course.............. 1.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Lahaina (Banyan Tree)... 3 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kapalua Airport............. 3.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kahului Airport.............. 26 Miles Fall/Winter 2015-2016 19

N¯ıele

PEOPLE

Ambassador of Aloha “All you gotta do is talk to people.”

In 1968, Gil Sablas was a young man just back from military service when he interviewed for a job as bellman at Royal Lahaina Resort. He moved up the ranks from bell captain to front-desk manager. Fortyseven years later, now guest-relations manager, he still seems surprised with his good fortune. “It’s not like being at work,” he says. “It’s more like being at home.” That sense of home defines Sablas and why he’s become a landmark at this Kā‘anapali hotel.

The undisputed “uncle” of the property, Sablas spends a lot of time greeting people, attending to details, making sure everything is okay. A fruit basket here. A handmade lei there. “It’s just the little things,” he says, “but it’s from the heart. If you share the love you have, your family expands.”

Born and raised in Lahaina with eight brothers and sisters, Sablas has an ancestral sense of place.

His mother, a full Hawaiian, was from Kahakuloa.

His father moved to Hawai‘i from the Philippines at age seventeen. “He was the one who always helped people who couldn’t speak English on the plantation,” Sablas says. “What he did for the people in his times I’m doing in my time.”

Relationships Sablas has forged go beyond the normal scope of concierge to guest. He has friends all over the world. When he travels to the mainland, his hotel “family” wants to share their home with him.

For many, he has been an integral part of major life events. Guests who were married or honeymooned at the hotel have returned to renew their vows with Sablas as their officiant. He’s seen guests who came as children return as adults with their own families.

And he’s become part of the final journey for others, helping arrange the spreading of ashes in the sea.

He remembers when guests had more opportunities to experience Hawaiian traditions, such as hukilau (net fishing), imu (pit cooking), and May Day festivities.

He still operates “old school”—with handwritten notes, leaving newer technology to the younger generation— but also shares his knowledge with youngsters. “You can feel the love they have, so you teach them more.

Some day they’re gonna use.”

Not long ago, the hotel’s owner asked Sablas how long he planned to work. “Well, sir,” he said, “as long as you own it, I’ll work you.”

“I didn’t ever expect it,” he says of his time at the hotel, or that he’d be paid to “share who I am, what I am. I can’t believe they let me do this.”

20 Kā‘anapali Magazine

JASON MOORE

STORY BY TEYA PENNIMAN

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N¯ıele

LEADERSHIP

From Board Shorts to Boardroom

“It’s hard to believe now, but it was outside-of-the-box thinking at the time.”

22 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Nearly forty years ago, Mike Kelley took a leap of faith and boarded a one-way flight from Las Vegas to Honolulu. Dressed in a blue leisure suit and clutching a Naugahyde suitcase, the nineteen-year-old arrived at the airport on Thanksgiving Day. A few hours later, Kelley settled into his new digs—a threadbare sofa in a tiny apartment shared by a ragtag group of guys employed by Pool Boys International.

After months of cleaning swimming pools and peddling bottles of suntan lotion at a Waikīkī hotel, Kelley was ready to throw in the towel and head back to Vegas. Then Pool Boys offered him a position at the new Kā‘anapali Beach Resort, working the pool deck at the Sheraton Maui. Kelley said yes.

“Back then, Lahaina was a bit like Mayberry from The Andy Griffith Show,” he says. “Everyone knew each other; it was so small, there was only one traffic light.”

The budding entrepreneur began envisioning a revolutionary business model. He partnered with one of Pool Boys’ regional managers to launch Beach Activities Maui, a kiosk offering the gamut of beach concessions, from suntan lotion and sunglasses to boogie boards, snorkel fins and SCUBA gear. “It’s hard to believe now,” Kelley says, “but it was outside-of-the-box thinking at the time.”

After buying out his partner, Kelley took Beach Activities Maui further, establishing Hawai‘i’s first poolside concierge service.

Drawing from his ground-level experience as a pool boy, he introduced the then-novel concept of serving guests in private cabanas (he calls them “gazebos”) and Casa Bella loungers. “I borrowed the idea from Miami Beach,” he says. “The term we used back then was ‘beach butler.’”

Soon other resorts began to seek out Kelley’s services. Today, the poolside concierge is an industry standard.

Kelley’s next venture—catamarans—surprised even him. “I grew up in the desert surrounded by sand, cactus and lizards. I had zero experience with boats. All of a sudden, I’m in the boating business.”

He purchased his first catamaran, the Teralani, named after his oldest daughter. There are now three Teralanis, and Teralani Sailing Adventures’ snorkel trips and sunset cruises are crowd favorites.

Years later, Kelley signed on to run a lū‘au in Wailea; he tapped into his Las Vegas roots to create the Grand Lū‘au at Honua‘ula, replete with aerial acrobatics and fire dances. Then, in 2008, the jack of all trades decided to take over the Sheraton’s Spa at Black Rock.

“And all of a sudden I’m in the spa business,” he laughs.

Today, Kelley oversees businesses across the state, and manages 300 employees, including his own crew of pool boys.

“I never imagined I would come this far,” he admits. “But I was able to build, maintain, and honor relationships. That’s the secret to success in any industry.”

JASON MOORE

STORY BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL

EXPERIENCE POLYNESIA

WAILELE POLYNESIAN LŪ‘AU Spectacular revue featuring the songs and dances of Hawai‘i and Polynesia, complemented by a lavish island-style buffet dinner and all-inclusive beverages.

Certificate of Excellence - Wailele Polynesian Luau

by TripAdvisor TUESDAYS, WEDNESDAYS & THURSDAYS Oceanfront at the Aloha Pavilion

Reservations Required.

For schedule and ticket information, please call 808-661-2992 or visit westinmaui.com

2365 Ka‘anapali Parkway Lahaina, Hawai‘i 96761 Dates subject to change without notice. ©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

A SEASON FOR RENEWAL

Take time for yourself at the award-winning Heavenly Spa by Westin™.

Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage Hydrafacial® Anti-Aging Peptide Treatment Emerginc Scientific Organics Facial Radiant C+ E Brightening Facial Re-Fueling Men’s Facial Pamper Me in Paradise Ali’i Manicure & Pedicure 2365 Ka‘anapali Parkway Lahaina,Hawai‘i 96761

For more information or to make a reservation, call 808.661.2588 or visit westinmaui.com

N¯ıele

SHOPPING

COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN

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1: MAGGIE COULOMBE; 2: MARTIN & MACARTHUR; 3: NICK KUCHAR; 4: ISLAND CREAM; 5: SANDAL TREE/VINCE CAMUTO; 6,7: CONN BRATTAIN; 8: NA HOKU; 9: BARON & LEEDS/MARCO BICEGO; 10: HONOLULU COOKIE COMPANY

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Maggie’s Got Your Back

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Poster Boy

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It’s Not Ice Cream

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Elevate Your Foot

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Show it off beautifully with this open-backed, ruched Kimberly dress in gold silk knit. $650, by and at Maggie Coulombe, Whalers Village, 808-344-6672, MaggieCoulombe.com

Carry the Two

His brown leather Martin messenger bag boasts koa accents and deep pockets inside and out. Her Emma handbag in ilimaorange calfskin has two zippered top pockets, koa-accented flap, and snap gusset that expands for more room. Each is $225, by and at Martin & MacArthur, Whalers Village, 808-667-7422, MartinAndMacArthur.com O‘ahu artist Nick Kuchar captures island life in fun retro prints for Everything Is Jake! We jumped at the chance to show off his “Dive In! Black Rock” poster, 12”x18” on smooth, heavyweight stock. $28 at Sand People, Whalers Village, 808-662-8785, SandPeople.com; and EverythingIsJake.com It’s Island Cream®—a bit like ice cream, a bit like gelato, and available in flavors you’ll melt for. (Shown: double-scoop strawberry shortcake in chocolate waffle cone) Cups from $5, 16-oz. container $10, cones and toppings extra. Handmade (including cones) with natural ingredients by and at Island Cream, Lahaina Gateway Center, 305 Keawe Street, Lahaina, 808-298-0916, IslandCreamCo.com Slip into Vince Camuto’s Mombo thong sandal. The web of metallic beads and clear rhinestones weaves sophistication into every step. Available in gold (shown) or black. $110 at Sandal Tree, Whalers Village, 808-667-5330, SandalTree.com

Sí, There’s the Rub!

Chef Paris Nabavi’s award-winning blend of spices, citrus, and smoky chipotle brings a south-of-the-border accent to poultry, pork, lamb, rice and veggies. The 3½-oz. tin is $13 at Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive, 808-6626000, SangritaGrill.com

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Awash in Tropical Fragrance

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Swiss Movement Meets Island Time

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Organic Beauty

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Shaka Street handcrafts these naturally scented luxury soaps.

9-oz. bar is $14 at Accents in The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-662-0440, WestinMaui.com; and ShakaStreet.com.

Na Hoku’s steel chronograph watch has a sapphire crystal and stainless-steel bracelet with koa-wood inlay. Water-tested to 660 feet. $650 by and at Na Hoku, Whalers Village, 808-667-5411, NaHoku.com Marco Bicego’s Lunaria Collection embraces organic shapes, hand-molded, hand-brushed, and delicately worked in 18kt. gold. 18” necklace is $6,110 at Baron & Leeds, Whalers Village, 808-661-6806, BaronAndLeeds.com

The Edible Flower Box

Outside, the box depicts hibiscus, Hawai‘i’s state flower. Inside, a dozen pineapple-shaped cookies tempt in four chocolaty tropical flavors. $14, by and at Honolulu Cookie Company, Whalers Village, 808-661-8248, HonoluluCookie.com Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Kā‘anapali Fall/Winter 2015-2016 25

ui a m r e v Aw rl o hi Story by lehia apana Photography by bob bangerter

There’s a drive on Maui so famous that songs have been sung about it and poetry penned in its honor. Hundreds of wide-eyed travelers traverse it daily, and souvenir shops sell T-shirts identifying those who “survived it.”

I’m talking about the famed “Road to Hāna”—officially (albeit ambitiously) named Hāna Highway. Hardly a bustling thoroughfare, these fifty-two miles of snaking, cliff-hugging pavement are dotted with single-lane bridges and enough blind turns to induce chicken skin. Those who accept this challenge to Maui’s east end arrive at one of Hawai‘i’s last unspoiled frontiers, whose isolation has preserved its rustic beauty and endless charm.

As seductive as it is, the drive can take up to three hours from Kā‘anapali, which is about as far away from Hāna as you can get and still be on the same island. Luckily, there’s an alternative route—no driving required.

26 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Kā‘anapali Lahaina

Kahului Airport

Ke‘anae Hāna

INSET: LEHIA APANA

Ke‘anae Peninsula spills into the Pacific along Maui’s northern coast. This old Hawaiian village is famous for its taro paddies, passed down through generations of local families.

Right: Capt. Rick Bass gives a thumbs up—Hawaiian style— from the pilot’s seat.

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 27

Manawainui Valley, on Haleakalā’s southeastern face, is typically arid, but its upper reaches (seen on opposite page) transform into a dramatic water show after days of rain.

I arrive at Blue Hawaiian Helicopters, tuck my car keys into my pocket, and carefully settle into my seat inside one of the company’s new Eco-Star choppers. I’d read about this “Cadillac of helicopters” beforehand, and have lofty expectations. Mostly, though, I don’t want to break anything.

With a $2 million price tag, our souped-up ride is outfitted with bucket seats, a wraparound glass cockpit and anti-vibration technology, among other comforts.

I slip on the noise-blocking headphones and listen to Capt. Rick Bass’s instructions. Each passenger is equipped with a microphone, and Bass, who is a state-certified tour guide as well as a pilot, encourages us to ask questions along the ride.

“Just no karaoke, unless you’re good at it,” he jokes.

We leave central Maui and head southeast towards Haleakalā, gliding above the tapestry of sugarcane fields that carpet the central valley. From our lofty perspective, the action below seems to slow down. Cars crawl like worker ants along Hāna Highway, and bustling Kahului looks still.

Kaho‘olawe, Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i and Molokini appear in the distance, those sprawling islands dwarfed at this altitude. Capt. Bass points out

that what we can see is only a fraction of the massive volcanic topography that’s rooted thousands of feet below on the ocean floor.

We approach Haleakalā, the world’s third-largest volcano, where clouds form like cotton balls and drift from the crater rim down the mountain’s outer slopes. Despite the grey sky and stubborn cloud cover, Capt. Bass offers a silver lining to what has been a week of wet weather: “We’re going to see a lot of waterfalls today.”

We whirl to a neighboring valley, and within seconds, his forecast comes true. The shadowed terrain transforms into a water show fueled by seemingly endless cascades that span the mountainside. We’ve entered one of Maui’s secret places: the remote upper reaches of Manawainui Valley. I am suddenly in a different reality, and consider pinching myself, but instead grab my camera to snap proof that this place exists.

“We only get to see Manawainui like this once every blue moon,” says Capt. Bass. “We usually don’t get enough rain—but [the waterfalls] are really going off today.”

I begin counting them, but soon lose track, and rely instead on Capt.

Bass, who estimates as many as thirty along this single cliff. Slender

Tall on adventure but short on time? An aerial tour of Maui takes you from mountain to sea, gliding past the island’s natural attractions within the span of an hour.

28 Kā‘anapali Magazine

LEHIA APANA

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 29

We’ve entered one of Maui’s secret places.

I am suddenly in a different reality. ribbons of water free-fall hundreds of feet; multitiered torrents tumble from one bluff to the next; and cascades plunge into pools so deep that it’s impossible to know where they end. According to Capt. Bass, the tallest waterfall here measures nearly 3,000 feet, higher than the world’s tallest building, the 2,722-foot-tall Burj Khalifa in Dubai.

It’s easy to be dazzled by thoughts of remote tropical valleys and pristine waterfalls. But once you’re hovering 4,500 feet above them, you understand the deeper seduction: witnessing the genius of nature that has shaped our island landscape. As compared to older parts of Maui, which have been carved out and manicured by nature, this area is still developing. Here at Manawainui, we see what these islands looked like

thousands of years ago, no imagination required.

We continue our journey, crossing over the bucolic small towns of East Maui. As we approach Hāna, signs of human life emerge: tiny rooftops sprinkled across vast and verdant grassland, and Hāna Bay’s horseshoe-shaped black-sand beach in the distance.

Capt. Bass turns our attention towards Pi‘ilanihale, an ancient Hawaiian heiau (temple) once lost to the jungle. Beginning in the early 1970s, local families restored this hidden treasure, now a National Historic Landmark.

Located within Kahanu Garden, this three-acre structure is the largest of its kind in the Pacific, and is made of thousands of stones stacked up to fifty-five feet high, dwarfing every nearby structure.

We soar above Wai‘ōpai on Maui’s southern coast. Behind us lies Manawainui; ahead, Nu‘u Bay, a conservation area whose wetlands are managed by the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust.

30 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Unlike the sandy beaches and placid waters of the island’s leeward coasts, East Maui’s wild shores are part of its appeal.

Here, a finger of lava protrudes into the rugged seas between Ke‘anae and Nāhiku.

From a distance, Pi‘ilanihale Heiau (temple) appears as a charred landscape in a sea of green. The largest extant heiau in Hawai‘i, the lava-rock structure is named for Pi‘ilani, the great sixteenth-century leader who brought an era of peace and prosperity as the first chief to rule all of Maui.

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 31

Blue Hawaiian’s EcoStar helicopters offer 180-degree views, so you’ll never miss a Kodak moment.

This oceanfront heiau stands in contrast to its natural surroundings. Beyond its rock walls, a sprawling green lawn seems to glow next to the azure swells that slap against the lava rocks below. The structure’s exact history remains a mystery, adding a suspenseful allure to this sacred place.

We follow the coastline back towards central Maui, where our trip began. Having grown up here, I assumed I had seen it all—or the best parts, anyway. These past fifty minutes with Blue Hawaiian have proved me wrong, revealing to me places I never knew existed and showing me old favorites from a new perspective, as if seeing them for the first time.

Blue Hawaiian Helicopters offers a number of aerial tours. To book yours, call 871-8844 or (toll free) 1-800-745-2583, or visit the website: BlueHawaiian.com.

32 Kā‘anapali Magazine

TOP: BOB BANGERTER; BOTTOM: BLUE HAWAIIAN HELICOPTERS; INSET(4): LEHIA APANA

Fresh water meets the sea near the little town of Nāhiku on Maui’s eastern shore.

UPLIFTING DOWN TIME Plunge into the healing power of the sea with an Ocean Ritual at Spa Helani, a Heavenly Spa by Westin™. This three-step aquatic and sensorial experience includes an Ocean Memory Scrub, a massage with Sea Salt Stamps and a Tingling Algae Mousse Wrap.

OCEAN RITUAL 80 minutes - $250 110 minutes - $300 For more information or to make a reservation, visit westinkaanapali.com/spa or call 808.662.2644.

6 Kai Ala Drive, North Kā‘anapali Beach, Maui

©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affi liates. Prices do not include tax or gratuity/service charge.

Spa Helani, a Heavenly Spa by Westin – Best Facial | Maui Time, Best of Maui 2014, Top 10 Favorite New Getaway Spas | SpaFinder Readers Choice Awards, Four Diamond Resort | AAA Award 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011

Ka¯‘anapali

every

h c i h w

y a w

Kā‘anapali is a chameleon of the best sort, offering up exactly the right activities, whatever your mood or needs. We’ve crafted five perfect itineraries for families, lovebirds, thrill-seekers, culture hounds, and those pursuing pure relaxation. Find the one that fits you. Better yet, try them all.

34 Kā‘anapali Magazine

SKYLINE ECO-ADVENTURES

�tory by shannon wianecki

adventure

Craving a little adrenaline-laced activity? Get your fix here. Be sure your GoPro battery is charged!

Fuel up with a power breakfast at the Ocean Pool Bar & Grill at the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas. The menu, designed with active, health-conscious travelers in mind, offers everything from locally raised eggs and fresh-pressed juices to Irish steel-cut oats.

7AM

Explore Kā‘anapali’s underwater world with 5 Star Scuba.

Beginners can practice in the pool before heading out into the ocean.

Advanced divers can look for lobsters hiding on the reef at night or zip around on a scooter dive. Find 5 Star Scuba kiosks at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, and Westin Kā‘anapali Villas.

8AM

You’ve gone below; now it’s time to fly! Any time between May 16 and December 14, you can catch air with UFO Parasail. Buckle in and let your feet dangle as you soar 1,200 feet above the Pacific. Tandem rides are especially fun.

TOP: CESERE BROTHERS; MIDDLE: UFO PARASAIL; BOTTOM LEFT: RYAN SIPHERS; BOTTOM RIGHT: KBRA/PETER LIU

10AM

12AM

You must be ravenous by now!

Slide into CJ’s Deli & Diner in the Fairway Shops for a kalua pork hoagie and pineapple fried rice.

Walk next door to embark on your next adventure: the three-hour Zip n’ Dip tour with Skyline EcoAdventures. Wear clothing that you don’t mind getting dirty and a swimsuit, since you’ll be dropping from your zipline into a mountain pool.

1:30 PM

Back at your room, scrub the red dirt from your toes and upload the ten thousand amazing photos you shot throughout the day.

5PM

Catch the sunset from the beach path. Saunter over to Leilani’s Beachside Grill at Whalers Village and satisfy your hunger with Chef Ryan Luckey’s sriracha-guava chicken wings and organic Maui Superfoods burger.

6PM

10PM

Kick back a craft cocktail and shake your booty to the DJ’s tunes at Black Rock Lounge at the Sheraton.

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 35

rejuvenation

Just inhaling Maui’s plumeria-scented air is relaxing enough, but here’s our recipe for extra R&R. Salute the sun with a beach yoga class at the Westin Maui Resort & Spa. With each exhale, let your tension drift away on the ocean’s breeze. Forgot to pack your favorite spandex? No worries, the hotel lends out top-of-the-line New Balance gear and shoes.

8AM

Drink your daily dose of vitamins at The Juicery (open in the mornings at Relish Burger Bistro in the Westin Maui). Gulp down a green kale smoothie, or sip on liquid sunshine: a refreshing tonic of carrot, orange, mango, ginger, and turmeric.

9AM

Find a hammock, a stretch of golden sand, or the shade of a swaying palm tree. While drifting into daydreams, deeply compute that you are a human being, not a human doing.

10AM

Did all that lounging work up your hunger? Pull up a chair at Sangrita Grill + Cantina in the Fairway Shops.

Everything is fresh and flavorful here, from the “kick-ass carnitas” braised in duck fat to the poblano enchiladas stuffed with asparagus and zucchini.

12PM

It’s time to test your inner and outer balance on a stand-up paddleboard.

Beach Activities of Maui offers lessons and board rentals; kiosks are along the shore and at many of the hotels. Wade out beyond the shorebreak lapping up to Kā‘anapali Beach. Take a deep breath and stand. You’ll have a mesmerizing view of fish swimming below and islands on the horizon.

Dig your paddle in and go.

After that core workout, you’re ready for the Pamper Me in Paradise treatment.

Check into the Westin Maui’s Heavenly Spa for eighty minutes of relaxing bliss.

Your therapist will exfoliate your skin with a sugar scrub, lightly massage coconut cream into your sore muscles, and moisturize your skin from sole to scalp with rich macadamia and kukui-nut oils.

3PM

5PM

Another dose of daydreaming—or celebrate happy hour with a tropical cocktail at your favorite poolside bar.

Let Chef Gevin Utrillo wow you at award-winning Japengo, overlooking the pool at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa. Order the moriawase— chef’s sashimi selection—and feast on translucent slivers of hamachi, ruby-red ‘ahi tuna, and plump sweet shrimp.

7PM

36 Kā‘anapali Magazine

KBRA/PETER LIU; INSETS FROM TOP: WESTIN MAUI, WESTIN KOR, WESTIN MAUI

1PM

family fun

Kā‘anapali has so much to offer pint-sized jetsetters—everything from swim-through waterfalls to pirate ships and penguins!

Rise and shine! Time to feed the troops.

Pro tip for families: Rent a condo with a full kitchen and stock up on breakfast foods on your way from the airport. Or book a room at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa’s club floor, which grants access to the lounge and its ample snacks.

8AM

Start with a wildlife tour at the Hyatt. More than thirty exotic birds call the resort home, including rainbow-colored parrots, elegant cranes, white and black swans, and—most irresistible—South African penguins.

(The tour is offered Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.)

10AM

11AM

Hungry already? Head to Hank’s Haute Dogs at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa for a delicious, gourmet dog.

Time to hit the pool! But which one? At the Hyatt, kids can scamper across the swinging rope bridge, shoot down the waterslide, swim under a waterfall, and splash in a kids-only lagoon and fountain.

Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club has swim-through waterfalls, waterslides, and a pirate ship. Not to be outdone, the sprawling Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas has waterslides and a pirate ship, plus basketball and volleyball nets. The fastest waterslide on Kā‘anapali Beach is at the Westin Maui Resort & Spa. Beyond the pool, the glittering Pacific beckons. Teens shouldn’t leave Hawai‘i without a spin on a surfboard or stand-up paddleboard. After a two-hour lesson with one of Kā‘anapali’s surf schools, they might start dreaming of going pro.

FROM TOP: KAANAPALI ALII; WESTIN KOR; RYAN SIPHERS; HYATT REGENCY MAUI; PENGUIN: KBRA/PETER LIU

12PM

3PM

Naptime.

Zzzzzzzz

With your feet in the sand at Hula Grill’s Barefoot Bar in Whalers Village, you can order virgin lava flows for the little ones and liliko‘i (passionfruit) mojitos for yourself. There’s food and live music, too.

5PM

If the sandman hasn’t visited yet, take your tykes up to the Hyatt’s rooftop for a hands-on astronomy lesson. Follow the example of the Native Hawaiians, some of the world’s greatest celestial navigators, and gaze up into Maui’s star-speckled night sky.

8PM

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 37

romance

Lovebirds barely need to leave the nest to experience the best Kā‘anapali has to offer.

9AM

“Hello, room service? Please deliver perfection to room 542.” Breakfast in bed is a no-brainer.

Okay, time to shed your cozy robes and greet the world.

Strap on a mask and snorkel and dip below the ocean’s surface. The waters around Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) teem with fish; the reefs are even better a little further north at Kahekili Beach. Watch for sea turtles and the colorful cleaner wrasses that nibble algae from their shells. Rent or purchase snorkel gear at the nearest beach-activities kiosk.

11AM

Sit down for a casual lunch (with a great ocean view) at D.K. Kodama’s Maui Fish & Pasta in Whalers Village. Try Chef Alex Stanislaw’s classy caprese with fresh burrata and local heirloom tomatoes.

12PM

Indulge in a couple’s massage at the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas’ Spa Helani, where you can lounge together in the outdoor reception area before retreating into your private treatment room or beachfront cabana.

Walk hand in hand along the beach, watch for the green flash at sunset, and enjoy the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa’s dramatic cliff-diving ceremony at Pu‘u Keka‘a.

6PM

For a luxurious and private feast, arrange a private Dinner under the Stars with the executive chef at the Sheraton. A butler will deliver course after course to your secluded, torchlit table.

7PM

Climb to the roof of the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa for a Tour of the Stars. Peer through a fourteen-inch reflector telescope known as “the Edge” to see planets, galaxies, nebulae, and other objects glittering in the vast celestial fabric. Tours start nightly at 8 p.m., but the late weekend slots are adults-only, with champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries to sweeten the experience.

10PM

38 Kā‘anapali Magazine

SHERATON MAUI; INSET FROM TOP: WESTIN MAUI; WESTIN KOR; SHERATON MAUI

2PM

culture

Beneath Kā‘anapali’s resort landscape lies rich history.

Learn about ancient Hawaiians, whalers, plantation workers, and others who’ve left their mark here.

Begin your day at the Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas’ Castaway Café. A stone’s throw from the ocean, you can tuck into Hawai‘i coffee and a loco moco (hamburger patty with rice and gravy) or a Belgian waffle loaded with fresh fruit.

9AM

Step into Kā‘anapali’s storied past on a self-guided walking tour. Start at the Royal Lahaina Resort and meander south. You’ll pass through an ancient village, an old racetrack where Hawaiian kings ran horses, and Pu‘u Keka‘a, a leina a ka ‘uhane or place where spirits were thought to jump off into the afterlife. Lava-rock monuments explain the significance of each site.

Visit KaanapaliResort.com/tag/historical-trails for more information, or pick up a brochure and map at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel.

10AM

Pause in your walking tour for a spin through Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. Every year, as part of the hotel’s mission to embody Hawaiian values, staff celebrates Makahiki—the season of rest and renewal—by crafting gourd drums, poi pounders and other traditional artifacts. Each April, the hotel hosts the Maui Steel Guitar Festival, each November, the prestigious Hula o nā Keiki children’s hula competition. (See story page 72.) And all year long, you can stop by the lobby for lessons in playing ‘ukulele, stringing flower lei, dancing hula, weaving lauhala, and even speaking a little ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i.

FROM TOP: KBRA/PETER LIU, WHALERS MUSEUM; KBRA/PETER LIU, HYATT REGENCY MAUI; LEI: JOHN GIORDANI

11AM

Continue to Whalers Village for a taste of plantation history at Joey’s Kitchen in the Food Court. Celebrated chef Joey Macadang-dang (formerly of Roy’s Restaurant) opened this eatery, inspired by his Filipino roots. Try the crispy pork lumpia, short ribs sinegang (soup with tamarind), a bulgogi beef hoagie with Swiss cheese, slaw, and kimchee—or the delectable Hawaiian plate.

1PM

Take the elevator up to the Whalers Village Museum, where you’ll learn about the lives of salty sailors aboard Lahaina’s bygone whaling ships. Imagine cramming yourself into the replica forecastle, and marvel over the intricate scrimshaw artwork.

2PM

3PM

Follow the walking tour to its end. Just beyond the last monument, at Hanaka‘ō‘ō Beach, you can visit the outrigger canoe hale (house) and watch teams paddling their wa‘a (canoes).

You’re just in time for Drums of the Pacific at the Hyatt Regency Maui. As the sun sets, performers will dazzle you with traditional dances from across Polynesia. It’s one of five lū‘au offerings at Kā‘anapali; you’ll find equally exciting shows at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, Royal Lahaina, Sheraton, and Westin Maui Resort & Spa.

5PM

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 39

Find Your Ka¯‘anapali Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas 45 Kai Ala Drive | 667-7791 AstonMauiKaanapaliVillas.com Castaway Café | 661-9091 CastawayCafe.com Beach Activities of Maui Along Kā‘anapali Beach and in all the resort’s hotels 661-5500 | BamHawaii.com Fairway Shops 2580 Keka‘a Drive CJ’s Deli & Diner 667-0968 | CJsMaui.com Sangrita’s Grill + Cantina 662-6000 | SangritaGrill.com Skyline EcoAdventures 518-2860 | Zipline.com/kaanapali 5 Star Scuba 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway 667-5551 | 5StarScuba.com Hyatt Regency Maui Resort 200 Nohea Kai Drive 667-4909 | Maui.hyatt.com Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 2525 Kā‘anapali Parkway 661-0011 | KBHMaui.com Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club 100 Nohea Kai Drive 667-1200 | Marriott.com/hotels Royal Lahaina Resort 2780 Keka‘a Drive 661-3611 | RoyalLahaina.com Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway 661-0031 | Sheraton-maui.com UFO Parasail Beachfront near Leilani’s in Whalers Village 359-4836 | UFOParasail.net Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 6 Kai Ala Drive | 667-3200 WestinKaanapali.com

Whalers Village 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway Hula Grill 667-6636 | HulaGrillKaanapali.com Joey’s Kitchen | 868-4474 Leilani’s Beachside Grill 661-4495 | Leilanis.com Maui Fish & Pasta 662-0668 | MauiFishAndPasta.com Museum | 661-5992 WhalersVillage.com/museum.htm

40 Kā‘anapali Magazine

COURTESY OF HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA

Westin Maui Resort & Spa 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway 667-2525 | WestinMaui.com

ANY TIME Sometimes the best activity is none at all— especially at Kā‘anapali, where every waiting hammock comes with an ocean view.

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 41

A Hawaiian delicacy of the past may be the food of the future. �tory by shannon wianecki

42 Kā‘anapali Magazine

NINA KUNA

Breadfruit

TOP : NINA KUNA; BOTTOM: JOHN GIORDANI

Long domesticated, ‘ulu produces a seedless fruit inside a bumpy green skin. The trees opposite are at Kahanu Garden in Hāna—and can also be seen along Kā‘anapali Parkway.

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 43

Standing beneath the breadfruit trees, we watch the rain rush in from the sea, as it does here in East Maui. A curtain of mist advances, then we hear the soft roar as the first fat drops strike our faces. Ducking deeper under the tree canopy, we’re able to stay almost dry. The same interlocking leaves that provide shade at midday act as an umbrella during cloudbursts.

I’m at Kahanu Garden with Ian Cole, one of three employees of the National Tropical Botanical Garden’s Breadfruit Institute in Hāna.

We’re sheltered under the elegant, sixty-foot-tall trees that stand at the base of Pi‘ilanihale, the largest heiau (temple) in Hawai‘i. This mindbending, three-acre archeological site dates back to the fourteenth century; its attending orchard is just as ancient. These particular breadfruit trees are the grandchildren of those planted to feed bygone kings and queens.

After hundreds of years, this pre-Contact grove is still producing food. If only we remembered how to eat it.

Breadfruit is still beloved in Samoa and Tonga, where it’s salted and steamed or mashed with coconut. But here in Hawai‘i, the nutrient-packed Polynesian staple has fallen so far out of fashion it’s hard to find. Grocery stores don’t carry it. It’s a special-order item from distributors like Kula Produce. People with backyard breadfruit trees fret over the bright green, smallish volleyballs rotting on their lawn. Little do they know that they’re sitting on a resource that could very well feed the world. Luckily, several dedicated people are working to restore breadfruit to its rightful place, both on the plate and in the culture.

The rain lets up and Cole shows me around. The sandy-haired Florida

transplant is easygoing enough to acclimate to sleepy Hāna, but his ample energy is focused on a single goal: to get more people growing and eating breadfruit. Aside from the massive heiau, Kahanu Garden is home to the largest breadfruit collection in the world, which Cole manages: over 120 varieties from thirty-one Pacific islands. This living museum is the vision of one woman, Cole’s boss, Diane Ragone. Back in the 1980s, she islandhopped across Oceania to personally collect breadfruit samples, each one bearing unique characteristics. The Marquesas offered the intrepid botanist fifty-five varieties. Tahiti gave her dozens. Hawai‘i has only ever had just one: ‘ulu.

NINA KUNA

Above: Ian Cole oversees a bounty of breadfruit at Kahanu Gardens. Below: Annual cooking competitions produce delicious variations on the ‘ulu theme.

44 Kā‘anapali Magazine

NINA KUNA

Maui Breadfruit Company owner John Cadman shows Kamehameha Schools’ Maui staff how to prep breadfruit. ‘Ulu poi, an old-time favorite, makes a comeback.

As it turns out, one breadfruit can feed a family, and one variety a people. Packed in coconut-husk fiber and dry leaves, ‘ulu accompanied the Polynesian voyagers in their canoes bound for Hawai‘i. Long domesticated, the seedless fruit relies on human cultivation. And cultivate it they did.

The first Hawaiians planted ‘ulu orchards that stretched for miles. In the trees’ dappled shade, they grew bananas, sweet potatoes, and wauke (paper mulberry). The largest of these agroforests, the so-called “breadfruit belt” in Kona on the island of Hawai‘i, numbered around 144,000 trees.

In 1794, surgeon-naturalist Archibald Menzies of HMS Discovery described marching up from Kealakekua Bay in the “scorching heat . . . across rugged porous lava . . . when we entered the breadfruit plantations whose spreading trees with beautiful foliage were scattered . . . along the side of the mountain as far as we could see.”

Smaller ‘ulu groves flourished across the archipelago, including one stretching from Lahaina to Olowalu on Maui’s west side. “Hālau Lahaina, malu i ka ‘ulu,” says the Hawaiian proverb: “Lahaina is like a large house shaded by breadfruit trees.” The small but authoritative book Hawaiian Breadfruit states that pre-Contact orchards produced an estimated 100,000 tons of fruit annually, capable of sustaining hundreds of thousands of people.

What happened? Cole shrugs. “Something made breadfruit less important to the ali‘i [royalty],” he says. “No one knows why—none of the kūpuna [elders] we’ve asked. It’s a mystery.”

Breadfruit has always taken a backseat to kalo (taro) in Hawai‘i—in contrast with other Polynesian cultures. But the true significance of ‘ulu in these Islands has likely been underestimated. One mo‘olelo (story) credits the god Kū for introducing ‘ulu to Hawai‘i. During a famine, Kū witnessed his mortal family’s suffering and sacrificed himself, to be reborn as an ‘ulu tree. Hawaiian maidens were thus advised to “Nānā no a ka ‘ulu i paki kēpau,” or “Look for the gummy breadfruit,” meaning they should marry mature men of substance, like Kū, who would provide for them.

Mythologists and botanists agree on this point: breadfruit trees make a fine inheritance. One of the most influential naturalists of the eighteenth century, Sir Joseph Banks, commented that “Regarding food, if a man plant ten [breadfruit] trees in his life, he would completely fulfill his duty to his own as well as future generations. . . .”

At the Breadfruit Institute, Cole and Ragone endeavor to fulfill their duty, not just in Hawai‘i, but around the globe. Their aim? Ending world hunger—a goal that might not be as farfetched as it sounds. They’ve already shipped breadfruit starts to malnourished communities in Zimbabwe, Honduras, Ghana, and Haiti.

Breadfruit is rich in carbohydrates, dietary fiber, and essential minerals. According to Cole, a serving of breadfruit has the equivalent potassium of two-and-a-half potatoes, ten bananas or twenty bowls of white rice. Compared to other starchy crops, breadfruit is superior due, in part, to its verticality. Trees require less land and far less effort to cultivate than do other dietary staples.

“I’d much rather go pick my starch from a tree than grow a field of wheat or potatoes,” says Ragone.

In Hawai‘i, she and her coworkers have helped plant 4,000 trees.

The Institute partners with the Hawai‘i Homegrown Food Network to reawaken the community’s deep-rooted yet dormant love for ‘ulu. As Ho‘oulu ka ‘Ulu, they host annual breadfruit festivals on Kaua‘i and the Big Island, and ‘ulu-cooking competitions in Hāna. They’ve published the winning recipes in a book that celebrates ‘ulu as a delicious, affordable, and culturally appropriate food.

“If you had to pick one Hawaiian food that showcases sustainability, it would be ‘ulu—even more than kalo,” says John Cadman, who discovered breadfruit’s value while directing the food program at Kamehameha Schools’ Maui campus. The bright-eyed surfer is passionate about fresh, wholesome food and ‘ulu tops his list. “It’s the most abundant food producer,” he says. “It’s self-pollinating, and it grows in beach sand.”

Cadman teamed up with Cole to recalibrate students’ palates to breadfruit’s allure, one meal at a time. The cafeteria kitchen began receiving 100-pound deliveries of ‘ulu from Kahanu Gardens. “That’s just one day’s feeding!” Cadman laughs. The first time he served a riff on potato salad with ‘ulu standing in as the starch, he says, “I got fifty emails saying ‘hana hou’ [one more time] and calling it the hit of the decade.”

Cadman invited Cole to teach the Hawaiian school’s staff about breadfruit—its history and future in the Islands. The audience learned about their lost agricultural heritage. Then they got cooking. Cole had brought a dozen varieties to taste. The cafeteria kitchen transformed into Fall/Winter 2015-2016 45

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an impromptu episode of Top Chef. Teachers and administrators peeled and cored the unfamiliar fruits, as if cutting into dinosaur eggs.

Comparable to potato, ‘ulu can be roasted, boiled, baked, or fried with similarly satisfying results. One woman retrieved the school’s stone poi pounder and began methodically pounding steamed ‘ulu into a creamy yellow poi.

Ultimately Cadman left his post at Kamehameha Schools to launch Maui Breadfruit Company. In a much smaller kitchen, he now whips up sweet Pono Pies and savory hummus, made with Maui-grown ‘ulu. Both products are as healthy as they are delicious.

Inspired, I brought home two ‘ulu in varying stages of ripeness. The moderately ripe specimen was starchy and firm. I steamed it, dicing half to toss into tacos, and mashed the other half for fried croquettes. The verdict: delectable. And for dessert? ‘Ulu, of course. Fully ripe ‘ulu is sweet, tangy, and doughy—as pliant as unbaked bread. I ate this raw, with sticky fingers. (Cadman recommends throwing it into a food processor with almond milk, honey, and cacao for a sweet pudding.) With just two fruits, I made a three-course meal for four.

After these experiments, I marveled at breadfruit’s spotty history over the last few centuries. Most famously, it was the impetus for Captain William Bligh’s ill-fated trip to Tahiti in 1789 on the Bounty. His mission (at Sir Joseph Banks’s urging) was to bring breadfruit saplings back to the West Indies to feed sugar-plantation slaves. Not only did Bligh lose his ship to mutiny, but years later, when he finally fulfilled his orders, the Jamaican slaves reportedly refused to eat the fruit. In the early 1900s, Hawaiian writer W.S. Lokai claimed there were three kinds of breadfruit: rat-eaten, wind-stricken, and soggy.

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Hawaiian designer Wesley Sen created the breadfruit kapa (barkcloth) at left. Above, Sen demonstrates how to strip the bark of an ‘ulu branch. ‘Ulu is a common motif in Hawaiian quilting; the leaves and fruit are lovely, and breadfruit symbolizes abundance.

Clearly, Lokai’s ancestors disagreed with his assessment. Early Hawaiians didn’t just feast on breadfruit; they used every part of the tree.

Its wood became bowls, drums, and surfboards. Its sap plugged holes in canoes and was incorporated into medicines and musical instruments.

Bird catchers smeared the sticky latex onto branches to entrap saffronfeathered honeycreepers. Rotund breadfruits inspired the game ‘ulu maika —Hawaiian bowling. The naturally abrasive leaves were sandpaper for fine woodwork. And the pounded bark became kapa, the soft, pliant cloth Hawaiians wore and slept on. “‘Ulu [kapa] is from way back,” says master kapa maker Wesley Sen. “It can be made in less than an hour, which would be necessary for commoners. The ali‘i preferred wauke, which could be decorated.”

Around the same time Diane Ragone was poking around Polynesia for breadfruit varieties, Sen was researching the disappearing art of Hawaiian kapa-making with his colleague, Puanani Van Dorpe. They knew Hawaiians once made ‘ulu cloth, but they couldn’t locate anyone living who knew how to do it. So Sen gave it his best shot: fermenting ‘ulu bark, beating it into thin sheets, and applying the traditional watermarks. His finished product lives at Bishop Museum, the state’s repository of cultural artifacts.

Two years ago, Sen hosted an ‘ulu kapa workshop at the Bailey House Museum in Wailuku. First, he and his participants harvested ‘ulu bark from Kahanu Gardens, and kukui-tree roots from ‘Īao Valley for dye. Then they recreated the clothing of their forebears. Photos of the event reveal a remarkable diversity in texture and appearance.

“When you show Hawaiians an image of [themselves] standing regal in authentic costumes, they go, ‘Ahhhh . . . that’s how we were. That’s how we are.’ Something awakens in them,” says Sen. He’s looking forward to harvesting again at Kahanu Gardens, where, he says, “You get chicken skin. You can tell all of the ancestors are watching.”

Indeed, as I walk through the garden’s wet grounds, I catch the scent of ripening breadfruit. The breeze, still heavy with rain, seems to whisper, “Help yourself. We planted these for you.” 

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Fall/Winter 2015-2016 47

JOHN GIORDANI

48 Kā‘anapali Magazine

If These Stones could talk . . .

COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION

Story by jill engledow Behind a tall hedge at the south end of the Outrigger’s Maui Eldorado Kā‘anapali rests a large brown pōhaku, or stone, that resembles a sleeping person. Hawaiian legend says that it was once a man named Moemoe, a contemporary of the demigod Māui. Moemoe was a lazy fellow, preferring to sleep while Māui worked. When Māui returned from his epic feat of harnessing the sun to give the world longer days, he found Moemoe asleep yet again. Worse, when he woke, the young man scoffed at Māui’s efforts to improve the world. Angered by Moemoe’s laziness and mockery, Māui turned him to stone.

Next to Moemoe is a stone called Wahine o Manua, named for a young woman who fled her abusive husband and hid in a heiau (place of worship) at Wahikuli in Lahaina. Women were forbidden to enter most heiau, yet Wahine o Manua emerged unscathed from her sanctuary and was met by an owl god who led her to the stone at Keka‘a, where she could sleep safely through the night.

The most famous stone at Kā‘anapali is the one the resort is built around: Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock). This enormous lava formation divides Kā‘anapali’s three-mile stretch of beach, and has both historic and mythic properties. The fierce eighteenth-century chief Kahekili loved lele kawa, the sport of cliff diving, but his leap from Pu‘u Keka‘a required spiritual courage as well as physical strength. It is a leina a ka‘uhane, a place from which souls depart into eternity; to dare such an act proved a leader worthy of his warriors’ loyalty. Today, young divers employed by the Sheraton Maui honor their heritage in a nightly ceremony, setting torches alight as they approach the sacred point to the sounds of an old chant before reenacting Kahekili’s leap.

Traditional Hawaiian culture finds spirit and personality in every part of nature. All land is alive, and even stones have mana, or divine power.

Pi‘ilanihale Heiau, the great Hāna place of worship, is a potent example; here, thousands of pōhaku form a platform from which to commune with the gods, or to proclaim the power of a great chief like Pi‘ilani, the first to unite Maui some 500 years ago.

Even a single stone can be sacred, revered as an ‘aumakua (a family god) or a fishing shrine along the shore. Down the coast from Kā‘anapali, on the shore near Lahaina’s public library, is a stone famous for its mana— the healing Hauola Stone, said to have been used as a birthing place for women of the ali‘i, or chiefly class.

At the Outrigger Maui Eldorado, just off Keka‘a Drive, this historical marker identifies the two boulders depicted at top—each the subject of Hawaiian legend. The larger is Moemoe, a lazy fellow who was turned to stone by the demigod Māui. The smaller rock, Wahine o Manua, recalls the tale of a young woman escaping a cruel husband.

Opposite: The volcanic forces that shaped Hawai‘i created islands without metal ore. Before European contact, Hawaiians were of necessity a Stone Age people.

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 49

Oily kukui nuts, set aflame, turn a bowl painstakingly carved in stone into a Hawaiian lamp.

In these archival photos, players recreate the ancient Hawaiian bowling game of ‘ulu maika and chess-like kōnane.

The sailing canoe Ka‘ililā‘au sits on the grounds of the Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. Staff carved the traditional vessel with stone adzes, or ko‘i.

50 Kā‘anapali Magazine

TOP (2), BOTTOM: COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL; ARCHIVAL PHOTOS COURTESY OF HAWAI‘I STATE ARCHIVES

Stones tied to cowry shells created squid and octopus lures, or lūhe‘e. The stoneweighted basket in back is a shrimp trap.

Perhaps the belief that seemingly inanimate objects held such power stems from the ancient Hawaiians’ intimate connection to nature and their reliance on stone. They were a Stone Age culture by default; there is no native metal in Hawai‘i. Before Western contact, various kinds of stone provided both building materials and the tools to work them.

Pōhaku stacked without mortar created walls around dwelling spaces, canoe sheds, or any place whose boundaries needed delineation. Long experience taught builders to stack rough rocks so that even an earthquake would not tumble them.

Along shorelines, stones edged ponds that trapped fish for easy harvest. On land, they strengthened the banks of lo‘i, irrigated terraces where the staple food kalo (taro) grew. After harvest, the kalo root, or corm, might be cooked in the imu (earth oven) over a layer of hot rocks, then mashed into poi with a stone pounder. The long, slightly concave board upon which the poi pounder worked had itself been carved by a ko‘i, a stone adze.

Ko‘i could be made in a variety of sizes, all with edges ground to sharpness on a special grinding stone. Even after imported metal axes made it easy to rough out the shape of a canoe, skilled craftsmen still switched to a traditional stone adze to give the vessel a smooth surface.

Ancient Hawaiians took stones to war, slinging them at the end of a cord to trip an enemy, then finishing him off with a stone club or a spear tipped with sharpened stone. They used stone cups to prepare bait for fishing, mix tattoo ink or hold dyes for printing kapa (Hawaiian bark cloth); filled stone cups with oil and a strip of kapa to be lit for a lamp. They laid flat, thin stone discs in a shallow calabash and covered them with water to create a mirror.

Even games depended on pōhaku, like the ‘ulu maika stones used in a kind of bowling. A more intellectual, checkers-like game, kōnane, is played on a board of wood or a flat piece of stone, with holes punched by a stone-gouging tool. The playing pieces are pebbles of black lava and white coral.

A game of kōnane sits in the lobby of the Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel. It was made by staff, and guests are encouraged to play. It’s part of the hotel’s work to promote understanding of Hawaiian culture, especially during the November-toFebruary Makahiki season. In ancient days, Makahiki was a time of peace and relaxation, a time to honor Lono, the god of agriculture.

Hotel employees use this annual celebration to hone their traditional skills. The largest example is Ka‘ililā‘au, a full-sized outrigger canoe that staff carved and finished with ko‘i. It is set near the sea for all to admire (but not, the hotel requests, to climb upon). For a view of artifacts ranging from tools to household and ornamental items, ask at the hotel’s Ho‘okipa (Hospitality) Desk.

As with the sailing canoe Ka‘ililā‘au, legendary stones like Moemoe and Wahine o Manua deserve respect. That attitude extends to any ancient site or even a rocky landscape. The claim of bad luck resulting if visitors take home sand, coral, or pōhaku is generally considered fiction.

But piles of rocks that appear behind various park headquarters and hotels show that some people have taken a sudden series of misfortunes as evidence that they need to send island stones back to where they found them.

Nor is it wise to stack rocks in wild places. These little pyramids are not culturally acceptable and might disrupt future archaeological studies. Let the tumbled stones left by nature tell the land’s tale.

Finally, if you come upon an ancient stone wall in some remote place, take a moment to admire its skillfully stacked form and sense the lingering spirits of its builders. And don’t forget to say a kind word to these silent children of the land.

TOP (2): NINA KUNA; BOTTOM: JOHN GIORDANI

A ko‘i, or stone adze, meticulously lashed with cordage, lies beside a pair of pounders used to mash taro corm into poi. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel staff created these traditional artifacts, and the hotel makes them available for viewing.

In the lobby of the Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, pebbles and pieces of white coral sit in carved indentions on a rock transformed into a game board.

The game, kōnane, is similar to chess.

Pi‘ilanihale, in Hāna, is the largest heiau (place of worship) in Hawai‘i. The centuriesold structure is 341 feet long, its basaltrock terraces rising to a height of 415 feet.

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 51

Ka¯‘anapali grille Craft brews enhance a well-executed menu.

At Kā‘anapali’s newest beachside venue, huli huli chicken (opposite) comes with mashed potatoes, local veggies . . . and a perfect perch from which to watch the action on land and sea.

52 Kā‘anapali Magazine

& tap room

Story by martha

bloomquist

Photography by mieko

horikoshi

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 53

Left: Salad takes a sophisticated turn with watermelon, avocado, tomato and fresh arugula, accented with local feta and balsamic vinaigrette. Above: Pair your meal with a KGT Blond Ale or Ala Moana Amber from Waikiki Brewing Company.

Pau Maui Vodka, fresh thyme, lemon and mango purée make this Maui Thyme Lemonade a cool refresher.

54 Kā‘anapali Magazine

One of the more delightful aspects of a stay at Kā‘anapali Resort is a walkable three-mile stretch of beach that fronts the hotels. Day or night the boardwalk makes for great people watching, and once the sun sets, it’s a short stroll back to the condo or hotel with nary a concern about designated drivers or traffic directions.

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, at the Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, is Kā‘anapali’s latest beachside eatery. Owned by the same folks who brought us the Cheeseburger in Paradise restaurants and Waikiki Brewing Company on O‘ahu, this oceanfront venue is an ideal spot to indulge in beachfront activities, from cocktailing to gawking. You can sit at an alfresco table and watch the parade of beach strollers and frolicking whales; enjoy a flight of craft beers without worrying about safely getting back to your hotel room; and, should you and your sunburnt skin want a respite from those tropical rays, find a delicious hideaway in the shaded bar.

After spending the afternoon watching Aussie-rules football or last year’s World Cup final, you’d do well to stay on for dinner. Venture into the light of that golden hour before sunset and snap up a table overlooking the ocean waves and the distant island of Lāna‘i. Let the sound of the conch shell that signals sundown inspire you to go native. Start with some of the best ‘ahi poke on the island: not too spicy, not too bland, sashimi grade and seasoned just right. It’s the perfect accompaniment to Waikiki Brewing Company’s Pono Pale Ale or Hana Hou Hefe.

Besides an extensive selection of brews and wines, what sets the Grille apart from other beachside venues is the special touches that the chefs tuck into their dishes.

“Although our menu purposely appeals to all ages from different parts of the world, our chefs have the freedom to infuse the dishes with their personal touches and flavor profiles, which makes a huge difference,” manager Vladimir Porac tells me with pride.

Take the homemade pickles used in the Cuban sandwich. They are crisp, clean and slightly sweet, so I’m not surprised to learn that the chef makes them himself just for this iconic sandwich. (When I rave about the gherkins, the staff graciously offers me a small container of the sliced pickles to take home.)

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From left: Opah (moonfish) fresh from the ocean comes wrapped in pancetta and surrounded by stir-fried vegetables. For those who prefer to imbibe their veggies, there’s the Garden Smash: Hendrick’s Gin, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, fresh lemon juice, cucumber, basil, and cayenne pepper.

It’s amazing how a single condiment like that can turn a humble dish into something great. The Grille’s brick-oven pizzas are another example: the bianco primavera’s prosciutto, mozzarella, and arugula are tempting enough for sophisticated palates, especially when paired with a balsamicdrizzled salad of watermelon, avocado and goat cheese. Yet despite the high-falutin’ ingredients, the Grille’s salads and pizzas, like the rest of its menu, are reasonably priced.

The Grille is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, plus a deservedly famous happy hour that lasts from 2 to 5 p.m. Handcrafted tropical drinks known as Trouble (it’s your guess as to why), Garden Smash (replete with cucumber, basil, mint, gin and a dose of cayenne pepper), and Old Thyme Lemonade (made with fresh-squeezed juice, mango purée and thyme) are $6 each. Beers are an even better deal at $4. The Tap Room also cellars dozens of wines for under $31 per bottle, and sells many by the glass.

Popular appetizers such as the big onion rings are specially priced during pau hana (after-work) hours.

To accompany your cocktail, dive into a platter of crispy calamari; neither overly chewy nor lavishly breaded, these lightly seasoned, fishstick-sized portions of tenderness come with a Thai-chili-based dipping sauce. The baby back ribs are truly a standout: meaty and molassesbarbeque glazed, they’re more akin to the Midwest version of ribs than the Asian-influenced type typically served on the island. (The ribs are available as a huge half-rack appetizer or full-rack entrée with fries and coleslaw.)

For a “when in Rome” experience, order the Grille’s version of huli huli chicken, a local dish so popular, it is commonly sold by the roadside in Hawai‘i to raise money for schools and churches. My husband and I are practically giddy when we find it on the menu; any night of the week we can now feast on huli huli rather than having to wait for special occasions or an invitation to a local potluck dinner.

56 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Unless you’ve had the chance to buddy up with a local fisherman, you’d be hard pressed to nab a fresher catch than those served at Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room. The preparations vary, depending on the type of fish that’s caught that day. On my last visit, I ordered an opah (moonfish) topped with pancetta and served with stir-fried vegetables; it was so ‘ono (delicious), it could have melted the heart of the most stalwart meat-andpotato lover.

The Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room has created the ideal recipe for a well-conceived, reasonably priced menu perfect for both date night and family groups. From sunup to late night, the Grille dishes up aloha vibes and tasty vittles, front and center on one of the world’s best beaches.

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th e

I

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h c Kit

n e

w a l s i n a t s Pasta ’s Chef alex

�tory by becky speere | Photography by mieko horikoshi

58 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Above: Monchong sits atop house-made fettuccine in an Alfredo sauce with summer peas, edamame, and chargrilled Kula corn. Below: Fresh berries, Thai basil and toasted almonds surround creamy panna cotta.

TOP MIDDLE: BECKY SPEERE; TOP LEFT: DIANE STANISLAW

Maui Fish & Pasta’s Executive Chef Alex Stanislaw

A gentle bear of a man, Maui Fish & Pasta Executive Chef Alex Stanislaw shakes with laughter as he recalls the control and pride that the breakfast cooks wielded at his first job on Maui in 1980. “If you were a guy, you couldn’t break into the line because the women cooks had it sewn up tight. All they needed was to give you ‘the eye’ and you knew you didn’t belong there.”

After a brief stint studying filmmaking at Syracuse University, Stanislaw switched his focus, graduating from the Culinary Institute of America.

He worked for a catering company in eastern Pennsylvania’s Allegheny Mountains. It was the dead of winter when a notice came through the office: Rock Resorts was recruiting cooks for Kapalua Bay Hotel’s Bay Club restaurant. His hands balance back and forth as he recalls how he weighed the decision: Maui versus the Poconos; beautiful white-sand beaches, blue skies and hot sunny days, versus freezing temperatures, snow and ice. The catering chef unhesitatingly chose Maui. Sight unseen.

For two busy years he wore multiple hats as buffet and dinner cook, filled in as sous chef on the chef ’s night off, and also worked at the old Blue Max on Front Street. He says that one of the benefits of that second job was the entertainment. “Marvin Gaye came in and sang one night . . . a highlight of my early days in Lahaina.”

Over the next thirty years, Stanislaw served as executive chef at a number of West Maui restaurants, cementing his relationships with local fishermen and working with “some of the best seafood in Hawai‘i.” In 2012, he joined forces with D.K. Kodama, owner of Maui Fish & Pasta and Sansei Sushi & Seafood Restaurant. “Alex is the master of the kitchen and a great cook,” says Kodama.

As if to illustrate that point, Chef sets before me ‘ahi seared in Mediterranean spices atop sun-ripened Olowalu tomatoes and wild arugula; a beet salad with fluffy, milky-white ricotta cheese; tender, housemade pasta tossed with fresh spinach and sweet Kula corn in a light cream sauce. As I taste each delicious and beautifully plated dish, Stanislaw says, “I’m not a clipboard chef. I have to keep my hands in it. Training my cooks and encouraging [them] to strive for perfection and an honest day’s work are traits that can take them far. I always try to lead by example.”

Stanislaw keeps an open door, encouraging his sous chefs to meet with him to discuss gainful changes in their operations. “It’s their time to share,

Clockwise from top: Pepper-dusted ‘ahi, seared rare, sits on a bed of arugula and Squirel farm tomatoes. Maui Fish & Pasta‘s mango margarita is an inspired tropical libation. Roasted Kula beets, Squirel Farm tomatoes, arugula, artisanal ricotta and balsamic vinaigrette create a salad as colorful as it is delicious.

one-on-one,” he says. “In the end, there is a commitment from both of us.

I am here to make their jobs easier, and our customers benefit with timely service and great food.”

As I indulge in one last bite—delicate vanilla panna cotta topped with a generous sprinkling of fresh berries—I think how lucky we Maui diners are that Stanislaw is still in the kitchen and cooking. Maui Fish & Pasta Whalers Village 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-662-0668 Breakfast 8 a.m.–2 p.m. • Dinner & Happy Hour 5–9:30 p.m.

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 59

Grab & Go

Above, left to right: Dive into Wiki Grinds’ premium bento of chicken katsu, beef teriyaki, grilled mahimahi, steamed rice, pickled vegetables, and edamame. Kai Ala Market is stocked with everything you need for that lastminute dinner party.

Need ingredients for a picnic or a snack for the road? At Kā‘anapali, you can take it with you. �tory by becky speere Kau kau is Hawaiian Pidgin for “food” or “to eat”—and the middle name of a great little spot for local-style comfort food. Stop in for a Big Kahuna breakfast of fried Spam musubi (rice ball), Portuguese sausage and scrambled eggs (or mainland-style pancakes and bacon), and head down to the beach for an early picnic in the shade of a coconut palm. And here’s a to-go deal that will keep you coming back: Purchase a 20-ounce souvenir mug for $34.95 and get unlimited refills of coffee, soda, iced tea or juice for the length of your Kā‘anapali stay! Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club • 100 Nohea Kai Drive • 808-667-1200

Colonnade Café

As I stroll along the Westin Maui’s walkway, a giant glazed cinnamon bun beckons from the Colonnade Café’s snack bar. It’s big enough for two, but so yummy that I eat the whole thing in one sitting, while reading my morning paper. As flamingos and black swans entertain me, and giant colorful koi nuzzle up to the surface of the lagoon, I wonder, “Should I have ordered the healthy bran muffin instead? Or the breakfast egg muffin?” I’ll come back tomorrow. . . . The Westin

Maui Resort & Spa • 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-667-2525

Kai Ala Market

You wake with a start from that heavenly nap on your condo’s lānai, and remember that six friends are coming for dinner! Kai Ala Market to the rescue. The deli case is stocked with marinated beef and shrimp brochettes, garlic parsley chicken breasts, and fresh island fish filets to toss on the grill. Salads are made daily with 60 Kā‘anapali Magazine

local produce, and an assortment of cheeses and crackers will tide appetites over until dinner is served. Wine? Happily, the Market also offers a large assortment for every taste and pocketbook. The

Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas • 6 Kai Ala Drive • 808662-2676

Sangrita Grill + Cantina

Ay, Chihuahua! Prize-winning rotisserie chicken meets Kā‘anapali Beach picnic with Chef Paris Nabavi’s innovative menu. Build your own takeaway, or order the prix fixe picnic: a succulent quarter chicken, fiesta rice, black beans, and crunchy jicama slaw. Mexican sodas, virgin margaritas and house-made corn and flour tortilla chips (with a side of guacamole even Queen Carlota would have loved) will have you dancing the salsa in the sand at sunset. Fairway Shops •

2580 Keka‘a Drive • 808-662-6000

Wiki Grinds

Fortify yourself for a night of stargazing. Wiki Grinds is open evenings from 5:30 to 10 p.m., so you can swing by for a premium bento of chicken katsu, beef teriyaki, grilled mahimahi, steamed white rice, pickled vegetables, and edamame that will make your ‘ōpū (belly) happy. Or pick up a three-course dinner: a salad of Kula greens with Thai guava vinaigrette; huli huli (rotisserie) chicken, grilled island vegetables, rice; and a delicious haupia (coconut) panna cotta for dessert. With Caesar salad, fresh fish entrées, and even a seafood paella on the menu, Wiki Grinds offers choices that will have everyone beaming. Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa • 2606

Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-662-8052

LEFT: SHERATON MAUI RESORT & SPA RIGHT: THE WESTIN KĀ‘ANAPALI OCEAN RESORT VILLAS

Beach Walk Kau Kau to Go

MIEKO HORIKOSHI

At Sangrita Grill + Cantina, start with Chef Nabavi’s prize-winning rotisserie chicken, then add your choice of sides to create the perfect picnic.

Fall/Winter 2015-2016 61

Dining Guide N Dinner served past 9 p.m. RR Reservations recommended $ Average entrée under $15 $$ Under $25 $$$ Under $40 $$$$ $40+

Beach Bar, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525. This oceanfront pool bar serves wine, beer and imaginative cocktails, including the award-winning Nō Ka ‘Oi mai tai. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.

Happy Hour 7–9 p.m. $$ Beach Walk Kau Kau to Go, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-1200. The perfect place for cold drinks, snacks, sandwiches and salad entrées. Featuring Pizza Hut pizza and other local dishes.

6:30 a.m.–7 p.m. $$ (See story on page 60.)

Black Rock Kitchen, Sheraton Maui, 808-921-4600. Choose the breakfast buffet with made-toorder omelets, waffles and wraps; or go à la carte. Dinner brings classic steakhouse fare with an island twist. Try the 16-ounce certified Black Angus rib eye, or fresh catch with farm-to-table preparations. Breakfast 6:30–11 a.m. Dinner 5:30–9 p.m. Lounge Sunday–Thursday 5:30–10 p.m., Friday–Saturday 5:30 p.m.– midnight. American/Hawai‘i Regional. $$–$$$ Castaway Café, Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 661-9091. This casual beachfront spot serves up local coffee and eggs Benedict with a view. At dinner, the owner’s chockablock wine cellar dresses up the menu’s simple but satisfying fare. 7:30 a.m.–9 p.m.

American. $$ China Bowl, Fairway Shops, 661-0660. Cantonese, Mandarin and Szechwan dishes, plus local favorites like saimin and kau yuk. Dine in, take out, or have them deliver. Winner of 62 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Gecko Publishing’s Maui Choice Award for best Chinese cuisine.

Monday–Saturday 10:30 a.m.– 9:30 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Kid-friendly. Chinese. $ CJ’s Deli & Diner, Fairway Shops, 667-0968. Specializing in comfort food that’s easy on the wallet, CJ’s huge billboard menu features homemade meat loaf, deli sandwiches and burgers, alongside local favorites like loco moco, mochiko-chicken plate lunch, coconut prawns, and mahimahi with lemon-caper sauce. 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Kid-friendly.

American. $ Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui, 661-0031. Cozy up to the bar— winner of the 2015 Silver ‘Aipono Award for Best Bar—and enjoy spicy chicken wings and classics like burgers, sandwiches and tacos. Sunset entertainment is like no other: torch lighting followed by a cliff diver’s leap from Black Rock. Food service 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Happy Hour 3–5 p.m. $$ Colonnade Café, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 6672525. Treat yourself to a light breakfast or refreshing snacks beside a waterfall. Selections include pastries, fruit smoothies, sandwiches, Starbucks coffee and nonalcoholic specialty drinks.

5:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m. $$ (See story on page 60.)

Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au, Hyatt Regency Maui, 6674727. Immerse yourself in an evening of Polynesian culture.

Enjoy authentic song and dance (including a three-man Samoan fire-knife dance), an all-you-can-

DINING DIRECTORY (See map on page 18.)

Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Drive Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Drive Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Parkway Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Kai Drive Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse, 2290 Kā‘anapali Parkway Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Drive Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Drive Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway

eat buffet of island specialties, Polynesian arts and crafts, hula lesson, and an island-wear fashion show at this award-winning lū‘au.

Nightly June–August, Monday– Saturday September–May. Kid-friendly. RR. $$$$ Food Court, Whalers Village.

Refresh and recharge at this fast-food emporium featuring Fresh, Joey’s Kitchen, Nikki’s Pizza, and Subway. 7:30 a.m.–9 p.m.

Kid-friendly. Eclectic. $ Häagen-Dazs Ice Cream Shop, Whalers Village, 667-5377.

Indulge in irresistible ice creams and sorbets, a decadent warmbrownies á la mode sundae, or a signature Dazzler frozen dessert.

10 a.m.–10 p.m. Kid-friendly. $ Hank’s Haute Dogs, Sheraton Maui. Man bites dog! Man says, “Delicious!” Located oceanside, this takeaway venue offers gourmet hot dogs, snacks and nonalcoholic refreshments.

11 a.m.–3 p.m. American. $

Honolulu Coffee, Hyatt Regency Maui, 661-1234. Jump-start your day with a selection of coffees, fresh-baked pastries, tropical-fruit smoothies and açai.

5:30 a.m.–8 p.m. $ Hula Grill, Whalers Village, 667-6636. Winner of the 2015 Gold ‘Aipono Award for “Best Shorts & Slippers Dining.” Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy live entertainment and casual fare.

The open-air dining room offers unobstructed views, and dishes like fire-grilled ‘ahi steak. Bar 10:45 a.m.–10:30 p.m. Dining Room 4:45–9:30 p.m. Happy Hour 3–5 p.m. Kid-friendly.

Hawai‘i Regional. N. $$–$$$ Island Press Coffee, Fairway Shops, 667-2003. Maui-grown coffee, breakfast, sandwiches, beer, wine, ice cream and Mauimade kombucha, indoor/outdoor seating, free Wi-Fi. Monday– Friday 6 a.m.–5 p.m. Saturday & Sunday 6 a.m.–4 p.m. $

Make cherished memories at Maui’s most exciting lu‘au!

Immerse yourself in an evening of Polynesian culture with authentic songs, chants and dramatic dances, including the three-man Samoan fire-knife dance!

• Feast on kalua pig and traditional island specialties • Learn to hula with our skilled dancers • Enjoy local crafts and an island wear fashion show

Best Maui Lu‘au

‘Aipono Award Winner

“This is a classy lu‘au - excellent food, wonderful service and a most enjoyable show. Our family really enjoyed it. We highly recommend it.”

- TripAdvisor

For reservations and a FREE GIFT visit www.drumsofthepacificmaui.com and enter Special Offer Code KAANAPALI. Or call Hyatt Concierge at 808.667.4727.

200 NOHEA KAI DRIVE KA’ANAPALI

Free Gift Offer available with online reservations only. A Tihati Production. The trademark HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2015 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

Dining Guide

N Dinner served past 9 p.m. RR Reservations recommended $ Average entrée under $15 $$ Under $25 $$$ Under $40 $$$$ $40+

Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui, 667-4909. Winner of the 2015 ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards for Best Sushi and Best Pacific Rim Cuisine, Japengo also offers world-class steaks, seafood and creative cocktails, blending the exotic flavors of the Pacific Rim with local ingredients. Dine indoors, outdoors, or in the chic Sushi Lounge. Live music. 5:30– 10 p.m. Happy Hour 5–6:30 p.m.

Seasonal pairing dinners and special events. Sushi/Pacific Rim/ Asian. RR. $$$

p.m. Friday–Sunday 6:30 a.m.–9 p.m. American. $ (See story on page 60.)

of aloha). Bar service 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Happy Hour 10 a.m.–noon American. $$

Kupanaha Magic Dinner Show, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0128.

Enjoy family-style dining while a magician executes close-up tricks.

Then illusionist Jody Baran and wife Kathleen take the stage in a show of classic magic, Hawaiian culture, cutting-edge illusions and comedy. Tuesday–Saturday 4:30– 7:30 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. RR. $$$$

Joey’s Kitchen, Food Court, Whalers Village, 868-4474.

Food-court fare gets a gourmet upgrade with dishes like braised short-rib pho atop house-made rice noodles, corn and sweet Filipino peppers in a rich ginger beef broth. 8 a.m.–9 p.m. B, L, D. Asian Fusion. $

Legends of Kā‘anapali Lū‘au, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0128.

Lei Pono Productions tells the story of Kā‘anapali through hula and narration, culminating in a fire walk.

The call of the conch gathers guests for a shell-lei greeting and welcome cocktail, followed by a feast of island fare prepared by awardwinning chefs. Mondays 5–8 p.m.

October–April, 5:30–8:30 p.m.

May–September. RR. $$$$

Maui Fish & Pasta, Whalers Village, 662-0668. Acclaimed chef/restaurateur D. K. Kodama has created a distinctive farm-totable menu. Try the restaurant’s innovative sushi rolls, then dig into pan-roasted jumbo shrimp served over homemade linguine, or herb-grilled pork chops with Hāmākua mushroom demi-glace.

Breakfast 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Dinner 5–9:30 p.m. Happy Hour 5–9:30 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. N. $$-$$$ (See story on page 58.)

Kā‘anapali Grille & Tap Room, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-7733. From the people who brought Cheeseburger in Paradise to Lahaina twenty-five years ago comes this new venue, serving burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and salads. Dinner adds steak, fresh fish and pasta. Thirty wines under $30 a bottle. 7 a.m.–10 p.m.

Happy Hour 2–5 p.m. American.

N. $–$$ (See story on page 52.)

Kai Ala Market, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 662-2676. Purchase ready-tocook items and sundries for your condo stay at this wellstocked grocery. Choose from an appealing selection of marinated meats, fresh vegetables, salads, and more. It’s also a great place to pick up pastries, sandwiches, snacks, and beverages before you head off to explore the island.

Monday–Thursday 6:30 a.m.–8 64 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 661-4495. Snack on calamari, sashimi, burgers or fish tacos while enjoying the view of sparkling sands from the open-air Beachside Grill. Or dine indoors on fire-grilled daily catch, teriyaki steak, shrimp scampi or prime rib grilled Texas style. Beachside Grill 11 a.m.–10:30 p.m. Dining Room 5–10 p.m. Happy Hour 3–5 p.m. Kid-friendly. Steak/ Seafood. N, RR. $$–$$$ Mai Tai Bar, Sheraton Maui, 661-0031. This beachside location at the foot of Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) offers $6 Stoli vodka cocktail specials 10 a.m.–4 p.m., sandwiches and salads 11 a.m.–3 p.m., and a classic Black Rock mai tai (light and dark rum, island fruit juices, and more than a splash

Maui Nui Lū‘au at Black Rock, Sheraton Maui, 877-HULA. This oceanfront, all-you-can-eat buffet features such traditional island foods as slow-roasted kalua pork unearthed and presented fresh from the imu (underground oven), cultural arts and crafts and Polynesian entertainment.

Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays (seasonal), 5:30–8:30 p.m. Kidfriendly. Pacific Rim. RR. $$$$ The Myths of Maui Lū‘au, Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-9119. Maui’s longest-running oceanfront lū‘au travels through time and space to reveal the stories of Hawai‘i, Tahiti and Samoa through music, song and dance. Nightly June–August; closed Saturdays September– May. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. RR. $$$$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3259. This breezy, poolside restaurant/bar serves breakfast and bistro-style cuisine all day long. Themed dinner nights: Upcountry Barbeque on Mondays, an all-you-can-eat Crab

Fest on Wednesdays, Prime Rib Night on Thursdays, and Farm to Fork Fridays. 7 a.m.–9 p.m. Kidfriendly. Hawai‘i Regional. RR, Open Table. $$$ Pailolo Bar & Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3200. Unwind and enjoy expansive ocean and neighborisland views, plus your favorite televised sports, all in an open-air setting. Burgers, tacos, sandwiches, chicken wings and salads. And check out Pailolo’s Woodie-style food truck for some ‘ono (delicious) grinds. 10:30 a.m.– 10 p.m. Happy Hour 4–6 p.m.

American. N. $$ Paradise Grill, 2291 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., 662-3700. Fifteen different televisions make it easy to catch your favorite Direct TV game, including NBA, NCAA, NFL and hockey. Half-off listed breakfast items 7–8 a.m., halfoff listed dinner items 4–5 p.m.

Bar opens at 2 p.m. with pool table and $3 Bud Light drafts.

Live music. At the entrance to Kā‘anapali Resort. 7 a.m.–2 a.m.

Kid-friendly. American. N. $$ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3259. Chef Francois Milliet creates classic Italian cuisine with a fresh, sustainable twist. Winner of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s 2015 Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Italian Restaurant, it’s the perfect place to enjoy risotto-crusted monchong, braised short ribs, Moloka‘i sweet-potato gnocchi and inspiring cocktails. Thursday– Monday 5:30–9:30 p.m. Italian.

RR, Open Table. $$$ Pu‘ukoli‘i General Store, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3200. Carryout baked

PERSIAN ROOTS,

Passion for Food,

COMMUNITY AND KIDS Recipient of the 2015 ‘Aipono Lifetime Achievement Award, as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Chef Paris Nabavi

Busy as he is running two establishments and catering operations, Chef Nabavi makes it a priority to give back to his community.

studied culinary arts in classic French tradition— in London. Travelling the world, cooking and tasting many different cuisines, he eventually worked his way up the corporate ladder with Fairmont Hotels, arriving in West Maui—by

Every few months, he and his wife, Donna, open their home to a group of 20 and cook a traditional Persian menu and share a few secrets from his family recipes. In lieu of payment, every guest donates to Grow Some

way of Texas—in 1989 to serve as Director of Food and Beverage for Kapalua Bay Hotel.

Four years later, Nabavi was ready for a new challenge and left the corporate world to open his first restaurant. The award-winning

Good—a Maui-based nonprofit that establishes edible classrooms to support curriculum, connect students and families to their food sources and inspire better nutrition choices.

Chef Nabavi also funds the purchase of

Pizza Paradiso Mediterranean Grill opened in

organic seeds for 52 school gardens in Maui

1995 and relocated to Honokowai Marketplace in 1998, serving Maui with the freshest Italian, Greek and Middle Eastern comfort food. www.pizzaparadiso.com

County through Maui School Garden Network.

Photo credit: Mieko Photography

Paris Nabavi is the Founder of Nabavi Legacy Fund—which promotes a yearly dine-around program called RSVP Maui, which stands for Restaurants Supporting Vital Programs.

The collaborative effort recruits restaurants, food and beverage establishments into Maui’s healthy kids and local food movement.

Photo credit: Tony Novak-Cliff ord

Ceramic wall: Donna Nabavi Photo credit: Nina Kuna

Academy, Imua Family Services, Grow Some Good, Maui School Garden Network, Book Trust and Maui Academy of Performing Arts.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON CHEF NABAVI’S PERSIAN DINNERS, VISIT HIS BLOG

Benefiting organizations include Maui Culinary

A deep passion for fresh, nutritious food at reasonable prices drives all of Chef Nabavi’s business ventures. In 2004, he opened the award-winning Cilantro Mexican Grill, which quickly garnered so many faithful patrons that the space could no longer accommodate the demand. Most recently, Chef Nabavi expanded his menu and space into another award-winning Mexican Restaurant, Sangrita Grill + Cantina, winner of Maui No Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s 2015 ‘Aipono Gold Award for “Best Mexican Restaurant,” Hawaii Magazine 2015 “Best New Restaurant” and MauiTime Weekly 2014 “Best New Bar.” Chef Nabavi was also awarded Exceptional Small Businessman of the year for Maui County. www.sangritagrill.com

Photo credit: Petra Kovacs

ADVERTISEMENT

Dining Guide goods, deli sandwiches, salads, marinated meats for grilling, ice cream, and the store’s specialty: homemade pizzas. 6:30 a.m.– 8:30 p.m. American. $ Relish Burger Bistro, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525.

This family-friendly venue features outdoor dining beside a garden and pool, and TV/bar seating for sports fans. Menu includes buffet breakfast, à la carte lunch and dinner, featuring American classics, all-natural Kobe beef burgers, salads, sandwiches, and local-style plate lunches.

6:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Happy Hour 3–5 p.m. American/Hawai‘i Regional. N. $$-$$$ Relish Oceanside, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525.

Unrivaled oceanfront dining for two, as well as family-style seating amid waterfalls and glowing tiki torches. Sink your fork into island-inspired cuisine such as miso-glazed salmon and seared ‘ahi. Save room for delectable desserts. 5–10 p.m. Happy Hour 5–6 p.m. Contemporary. N. $$–$$$ Round Table Pizza, Fairway Shops, 662-0777. Try local favorite Maui Zaui: ham, bacon, pineapple, Roma tomatoes, red and green onions, and three cheeses atop Polynesian-style red sauce. Sunday–Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Friday & Saturday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Kid-friendly.

American. $$ Roy’s Kā‘anapali, Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse, 669-6999. Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi rocks vibrant local fish and produce, preparing them with an Asian attention to detail. Roy’s blackened ‘ahi, and macadamia-nut-crusted mahimahi with lobster butter 66 Kā‘anapali Magazine

N Dinner served past 9 p.m. RR Reservations recommended $ Average entrée under $15 $$ Under $25 $$$ Under $40 $$$$ $40+

sauce, are menu standouts. Save room for the award-winning chocolate soufflé. 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Hawai‘i Regional. N, RR. $$$ Royal Ocean Terrace Restaurant & Lounge, Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-9119. At sunset, a traditional torch-lighting ceremony heralds the evening at this open-air casual restaurant that offers commanding views of the Pacific and the islands of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. Enjoy “broke da mouth” baked lobster, mac-n-cheese, or a filet with herb risotto, while a graceful hula dancer and solo musician perform Hawaiian classics. 6:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Kidfriendly. Hawai‘i Regional. $$ Royal Scoop, Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-3611. Continental breakfast items, deli sandwiches, specialty coffees, frozen yogurt, and Maui’s own Roselani Ice Cream. 6 a.m.–7 p.m. $ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, Fairway Shops, 662-6000. Chef Paris Nabavi creates innovative dishes like ‘ahi ceviche, avocado fries, seafood chile rellenos, and shortrib fig mole enchiladas. Open-air dining options and full-service bar with exceptional margaritas.

11 a.m.–10 p.m. Happy Hour 3–6 p.m. Mexican, N. $$ (See story on page 60.)

Sea Dogs Snack Bar, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525.

Hot dogs, popcorn, shave ice, nachos and sandwiches . . . pick up a snack at this oceanside spot on your way to the beach or other adventures. 11 a.m.–4 p.m. $–$$ Son’z Steakhouse, Hyatt Regency Maui, 667-4506. Set beside a lagoon where swans glide by, and known for excellent steaks, a fully stocked bar, and a wine cellar that earned multiple

Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Wine List Awards, Son‘z is ideal for romantic dinners, wedding parties and other special events.

Seasonal live entertainment.

5:30–9:30 p.m. Bar 5–10 p.m.

Happy Hour 5–6 p.m. American.

N, RR. $$$$ Starbucks, Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 667-1200. Find all your favorite Starbucks offerings at this full-service store. Starbucks gift cards accepted. 5:30 a.m.– 7 p.m. $ Swan Court Breakfast, Hyatt Regency Maui, 661-1234. Start the day with a lavish breakfast buffet or à la carte selections of fresh, local flavors and traditional favorites, all while enjoying the swans gliding by. 6:30–11 a.m.

American. $$ Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui, 808-921-4600. Watch your skillful chef prepare succulent steak, lobster, shrimp, scallops, and fresh fish to perfection right before your eyes. Tuesday–Saturday, 5:30–8:45 p.m. Japanese/Steak & Seafood. RR. $$$ Tiki Bar & Grill, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0236. Have your picture taken next to the largest tiki in Hawai‘i at Maui’s only outdoor tiki bar. Munch on appetizers, salad, pizza, or a sandwich at this relaxed poolside venue. Grill 11:30 a.m.–8 p.m.

Bar 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Happy Hour 3–6 p.m. American. $ Tiki Terrace Restaurant, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0124. Chef Tom Muromoto presents fresh island seafood, juicy steaks and nightly specials.

Tiki Terrace is the perfect vantage for watching the popular (and free) nightly hula show, while its new Grab-n-Go outlet offers light

snacks and specialty coffee drinks. The Sunday brunch is legendary—and a winner of Maui Nō Ka ’Oi Magazine’s Readers’ Choice ‘Aipono Award for Best Brunch. Breakfast 6:30–11 a.m. Dinner Tuesday– Sunday 6–9 p.m. Kid-friendly.

Hawai‘i Regional. $$ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency Maui, 661–1234. Head poolside for certified Angus beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past, and enjoy seasonal evening entertainment.

10 a.m.–11 p.m. Happy Hour 5–6 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. N. $$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 661-2992. Held outdoors, this award-winning Polynesian dinner show features dance performances from Hawai‘i, Fiji, Tahiti, New Zealand, and Samoa, as well a spectacular fire-knife dance finale. Hawaiian buffet inclusive of drinks all evening.

5:30–8:30 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday. Kidfriendly. Hawaiian. RR. $$$$ Wiki Grinds, Sheraton Maui, 662-8052. In Hawaiian, wiki means “fast”; “grinds” is Pidgin for “good eats.” Put them together, and you have Sheraton’s new togo venue for local favorites like huli huli chicken, beef teriyaki and paniolo (cowboy) barbeque; plus salads, sandwiches, steaks and chops—picked up without leaving your car. 5:30–10 p.m.

American/Hawai‘i Regional. N. $$–$$$ (See story on page 60.)

Yogurtland, Whalers Village, 661-9834. Create your own frozen-yogurt concoction from myriad flavors and toppings.

10 a.m.–10 p.m. Kid-friendly. $

 Solar Eclipse Mr. Sol and I have had a long, rocky relationship, most notably during my freshman year in college, when I jumped on the spring-break bandwagon bound for Fort Lauderdale and ended up in the emergency room after my lily-white skin took a beating in Florida’s tropical sun. In a single hour on the beach, my unprotected hide blistered and burned so badly, I spent the rest of the vacation hiding from daylight.

Vowing never again to be taken off guard when exposing my fair skin to the elements, I became a fan of high-SPF sunscreen, self-tanning lotion, big hats and shady spots.

In spite of all those precautions, I sometimes still inadvertently attract too much attention from Mr. Sol, and have to seek relief from the burn. I am not alone, apparently. Maui visitors so often cast caution to the trade winds—baring themselves to a more equatorial sun than they’re used to— that local spas have developed special treatments to restore their skin’s balance.

At the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, Spa Helani is soothing guests’ epidermises with a signature Aftersun Moisture Wrap (whose 68 Kā‘anapali Magazine

healing agent, the stonecrop plant, is touted as ten times more effective than pure aloe); and for the visage, a SEA C SPA facial by G.M. Collin that purportedly reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and those dreaded dark spots.

In spite of not really needing it, I agree for the sake of science to experience the superior feng shui at work in Spa Helani. I enter an oasis of cool: a décor that makes excellent use of organic textures such as stone, dark-stained wood, a profusion of plants, subtle lighting and glass accents.

The locker room is a delight, equipped with everything a girl needs to renew, plus a steam room and the Westin’s signature heavenly showers.

(Did I mention that Helani is a Heavenly Spa by Westin?) After indulging in the rainforest-inspired bliss, I suit up in a thirsty robe and am escorted to a treatment room. The aesthetician, Suiji, invites me to relax on the most luxurious and comfortable massage table I’ve experienced to date.

Suiji readies me for the next ninety minutes of pampering, tucking me into silken sheets, covering my eyes with a scented mask, and soothing

COURTESY OF WESTIN KĀʻANAPALI OCEAN RESORT VILLAS

Westin’s heavenly spa soothes away the burn. Story by martha bloomquist

That succulent green plant at left is called stonecrop. Worked into a rejuvenating moisture mask, it will have you looking as young and fresh as in your salad days.

At the Westin Kā‘anapali’s Spa Helani, sunburnt skin can patch into soothing care with a regimen that includes G.M. Collin’s SEA C SPA facial.

me with a moisturizing mist. She nourishes my face with a series of gels, potions, creams and hot towels. The intermittent neck massage between layers has me dreaming of the former life in which I was Cleopatra. . . .

The pièce de résistance is NuFace, a handheld marvel of a device that Suiji draws across my face, sending a soft wave of stimulation into the contours of my cheeks, forehead and jawline.

Too soon, she removes my eye mask and gently informs me that the facial is over. She hands me a mirror and invites me to have a look.

It’s me, ten years ago.

Suiji says I can thank stonecrop for that result. The plant also is used in the spa’s moisture mask, designed to combat sunburn and other skin irritations. The formulation is technically for the face, but she smears the light green gel over my arms, shoulders and back, then wraps me in a

LEFT: FOREST & KIM STARR; RIGHT: COURTESY OF G.M. COLLIN

Sun? SHIne!

Spas throughout Kā‘anapali Beach Resort offer treatments to soothe, nourish and replenish skin that has soaked up too much of Hawai‘i’s glorious sun. Here’s a sampler: Sunburn Treatment Highlights: Application of organic noni paste and aloe gel; lavender refresher made with water, lavender, apricot kernel and vitamin E oils. 25 minutes Hina Mana Salon & Spa Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach 2481 Kā‘anapali Parkway | 808-662-0887 HinaMana.com

Sunburn Relief Treatment Highlights: Use of cold towels, ti leaves, lavender essential oil and 100 percent organic aloe gel infused with lavender. Reservations

swaddling cocoon. She massages my head and shoulders while we wait for the potion to penetrate deep into my dermis.

“Whether you are sunburned or not, this mask is marvelous for all skin,” she assures me. “Leave it on as long as possible and let it work its magic.”

After two-and-a-half luxuriant hours in the spa, it is time for me to mosey back into the light of day. I look up at my foil, Mr. Sol, and smile.

“Bring it on, tough guy,” I think. “I’m more than ready to handle whatever you dish out.”  Spa Helani, a Heavenly Spa by Westin The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 6 Kai Ala Drive | 808-662-2644 WestinKaanapali.com

required at least twenty-four hours in advance.

25 or 60 minutes Alii Spa Kaanapali Alii 50 Nohea Kai Drive | 808-661-3124 KaanapaliAlii.com/Alii-Spa

organic aloe, lavender and tea-tree-oil ointment. 50 minutes The Spa at Black Rock The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway | 808-667-9577 BlackRockSpa.com

Noni Body Wrap Highlights: Wrap of Noni Skin Elixir, made with noni and aloe vera; massage with a lotion made of fresh coconut milk, virgin coconut oil and nut extracts. 50 minutes Spa by the Sea Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club 100 Nohea Kai Drive | 808-214-0977 SpaByTheSeaKaanapali@yahoo.com

Soothing Sun Escape Highlights: Dilo-coconut milk bath, wrap of aloe and dilo gel, cold-stone mini facial, and moisturizing hand-and-foot massage. In Fiji, where it’s from, the dilo is known as “the tree of a thousand virtues,” among them the ability to alleviate pain, reduce irritation, and promote healing and the growth of healthy skin. 80 minutes Heavenly Spa by Westin The Westin Maui Resort & Spa 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway | 808-661-2588 WestinMaui.com

‘Olu (Cool, Refreshing) Sun Relief Treatment Highlights: Coconut-milk bath; noni fruit salve applied with cold Hawaiian ti leaves; an

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Tasty Greens

From left: Hawaiian Hotels & Resort’s Gary Hogan, Peter Hehemann of He-Man landscaping, Kā‘anapali head pro Sutee Nitakorn, Royal Lahaina’s Braulio Andaluz and Jerry Sager, Imua’s Dean Wong, and Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association president Tom Bell and wife Liz know where to go fore! a good time: Roy’s Golf Classic.

At first glance, Roy’s Golf Classic looks like your typical pro-am competition, but there’s a twist: in this contest, amateur golfers pair up with a pro and a celebrity chef.

The eighteen-hole tournament, founded and hosted by award-winning chef Roy Yamaguchi of the eponymous Roy’s restaurant chain, brings dozens of nationally and internationally

Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival’s Denise Yamaguchi represents for the ladies! #milliondollarshot

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acclaimed chefs out of the kitchen and onto the links at the Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Course.

Now in its eighteenth consecutive year, the golf outing kicks off the fifth annual Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival at Kā‘anapali Beach Resort on Friday, September 4.

This year’s tournament has been dubbed “epicurean golf,” and for good reason. In partnership with the festival, food booths and wine-and-beverage stations will be scattered throughout the course. Players will be treated to signature dishes prepared by a few of the festival’s featured chefs, including Sheldon Simeon of MiGRANT, Henry “Hank” Adaniya of Hank’s Haute Dogs, Bernardo Salazar of Royal Lahaina Resort, and Tom Muromoto of Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel.

Golfers tee off with a shotgun start and play a best-ball scramble format. This year, forty-two teams composed of five players—three golfers, a pro player and a celebrity chef—will take a swing at winning the top prize.

Aside from bragging rights and a gleaming silver trophy, the victorious team will walk away

with more than $1,300 in prizes. But for those who don’t win, the disappointment of defeat will likely fade once they see what’s waiting for them at the nineteenth hole: a lavish feast and awards reception at Roy’s Kā‘anapali restaurant.

Denise Yamaguchi, executive director of the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival, says the menu will feature Roy’s Hawai‘i-inspired, internationally influenced cuisine. (She should know—Chef Roy and she are husband and wife.)

All that fun and fine food benefit a good cause: Imua Family Services, a Mauibased nonprofit organization that provides comprehensive early-childhood-development services to special-needs children and their families. To date, Roy’s Golf Classic has raised $674,000 for the agency.

“We started the Roy’s Golf Classic a few years after Roy’s opened on Maui,” explains Chef Yamaguchi. “At the time, we wanted to give back to the community in some way, and we selected Maui to host our tournament; we felt that we could have a greater impact by giving back in a smaller community. We selected Imua

COURTESY OF IMUA FAMILY SERVICES

Roy’s Golf Classic teams up with the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival for a day of epicurean golf. �tory by sarah ruppenthal

TOP & BOTTOM LEFT: KĀ‘ANAPALI GOLF COURSE; MIDDLE & FAR RIGHT: DANE NAKAMA/HAWAIʻI FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

because I’ve always believed in giving back to a cause that aids our children,” he says. “They will be the future.”

With the proceeds from this year’s event, Imua Executive Director Dean Wong hopes to add more staff to work with children at the agency’s brand new facility in Kahului. There, you’ll find a therapy room named in honor of Roy Yamaguchi and his decades-long tradition of giving.

Imua’s directors and staff help out at the Classic, which gives players an opportunity to see the faces of the organization. Wong also volunteers, and although he’s not a golfer, he says he looks forward to the event every year.

“At the beginning of the day, it’s clearly a competition—it’s very formal at first,” he says.

“But by the end of the night, there’s a real sense of camaraderie. When you have a fundraiser that’s fun, but also creates a sense of community, you’ve got a win-win.”

For more information about Roy’s Golf Classic or the 2015 Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival, please visit HawaiiFoodAndWineFestival.com. To learn more about Imua Family Services, visit ImuaFamilyServices.org. Kā‘anapali Golf Courses Managed by Billy Casper Golf 2290 Kā‘anapali Parkway Reservations/Pro Shop: 808-661-3691 Toll Free: 866-454-GOLF (4653) KaanapaliGolfCourses.com

Classic beauty: the Royal Kā’anapali Golf Course

Celebrity chefs at last year’s classic, like Alan Wong (second from left), Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame (second from right), and Roy Yamaguchi (far right) will be on hand again this year.

Chef Roy takes a swing in last year’s tourney.

There’ll be delicious fare at the nineteenth hole, thanks to the Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival.

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Seventeen-year-old Leimakamae Maura Kea was top wahine (female) winner at the 2014 competition. She dances with Hālau Kekuaokalā‘au‘ala‘iliahi.

Hula o nā Keiki Koby Kainalu Ichimasa, of Hālau Hula o Kawaiho‘omalu, performed in 2014 in the Keiki Division (dancers five to twelve years old) and won for best chant and best male hula.

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I wasn’t the only non-Hawaiian at the children’s hula competition that November, but I may have been the only audience member whose life doesn’t revolve around hula. Most of the multitude packing Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel’s small ballroom, and cheering on the dancers, were family by kinship or hālau (hula school). Never mind that the contestants— who hailed from across the state and as far away as Japan—were all under eighteen years of age (and as young as seven); this was serious competition judged by some of the most respected teachers of Hawaiian language, music and dance in the Islands.

Hōkūlani Holt has been one of those judges since Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel began hosting Hula o

nā Keiki in 1990. Third in a four-generation family of kumu hula (hula teachers), Holt has headed her own hālau, Pā‘ū o Hi‘iaka, for nearly four decades. Her day job is directing cultural programs at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, but every November, she takes time out of her busy schedule to evaluate young dancers performing ancient and modern hula (hula kahiko and hula auana).

What do she and the other judges look for?

“We take into account the maturity of the kids, but judge [them] professionally,” she says.

“To some degree, judging a hula competition is straightforward, based on a score sheet.” Foot and hand movements, facial expressions, and how well

COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL

�tory by rita goldman

In 2011, then-seven-year-old C.J. Kamuela Rodrigues Jr. won the award for Keiki Kāne ‘Oli (best male chant, ages five to twelve).

His school: Hālau Hula Na Mea Makamae o Kapualehua i Kaukeha.

a WeeKenD OF HaWaIIan CuLTuRe

COURTESY OF KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL

Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel hosts the 25th annual Hula o nā Keiki children’s hula competition November 13 through 15, along with demonstrations and displays of Hawaiian arts and crafts. To purchase tickets to the competition, call 661-0011 or 800-262-8450. (Don’t wait too long; seating is limited.) To enjoy the free demos and displays, just come explore the hotel’s lobby and grounds.

the dancer coordinates with the accompanist all contribute to his or her technical score.

“The technical section is purely the dancer,” Holt adds. “Creativity is the kumu. The creative section has to do with costumes, adornments, interpretation. Has the kumu interpreted the poetry [of the chant or song] appropriately?

When you’re judging the dancers, you’re also judging the kumu. I can tell within the first five steps how well a child has been trained.”

That emphasis on excellence gets to the core of Hula o nā Keiki—education. “It’s intended to be a good experience for the children,” says Holt. “It’s hula to enjoy.” But it also carries the responsibility of helping to perpetuate Hawaiian culture, which is why, unlike other children’s competitions, Hula o nā Keiki also requires each youngster to be interviewed by the judges.

“They may do a presentation, a Q&A . . . however the kumu has decided to prepare them.

The judges want to know what the children know about their mele [song]. What do they know about the choreography, the costumes and adornments? We do the interview so the kumu will participate in the learning, not just say ‘Dance like this.’”

Then there’s what Holt calls “the wild card”: the way a dancer makes the judges feel.

“Each judge brings to the competition a particular view of what is excellent hula. I look at footwork first, then the hand and body movements. I believe if you have good footwork,

the rest will flow from that. Other judges will look at expression first, because they believe that’s how the soul of the mele comes through.

Others may listen to the chant first, for passion in the voice that may translate into passion in the dance.”

What should the rest of us look for?

“First, know that this is a competition, not a hula show,” says Holt. “Visitors may think hula is supposed to look like what they saw on Hawaii Five-O. The performance they’ll see is intended to best exhibit the mele being done. Cuteness is nice, but it’s not the tipping factor.

“Second, the dancers have worked a very long time to get there; we should be appreciative and respectful of all of them. When you look at all the pictures of the past winners in the lobby of the Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, many of them have gone on to reach the highest status of hula dancer in Merrie Monarch.”

Holt’s referring to the Merrie Monarch Festival, Hawai‘i’s premier hula competition. It’s named for King David Kalākaua, who is credited with restoring Hawaiian culture after its neardemise in the nineteenth century. In a very literal way, the young dancers of Hula o nā Keiki are following in his footsteps. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy 808-661-0011 | KBHMaui.com

Top: Grace Golis-Bautista, of O‘ahu’s Joan S. Lindsey Hula Studio, won 2012’s Keiki Wahine Hula. Above: Seen here in 2011, Wade Ku‘umomimakamae Choda-Kowalski Jr., of Hālau Kekuaokalā’au’ala’iliahi, was thirteen in 2009, when he was crowned Master Hula o nā Keiki—overall male winner.

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Whale Watching

Maui’s most beloved wintertime visitor arrives to much fanfare. There are festivals, educational talks, and even an annual parade in honor of Hawai‘i’s humpback whales.

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Celebrate the season aboard a whale watch with Teralani Sailing Adventures, where an onboard marine naturalist will answer your every cetacean question. Cruises depart from Kā‘anapali Beach (fronting Leilani’s Restaurant

in Whalers Village). Trips run from December 15 through mid-April, and whale sightings are guaranteed during the height of the season, January 1 though March. Visit Teralani.net or call 808-661-SAIL (7245).

JASON MOORE

 SEE

SEE LEARN DO

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Night Diving at Pu‘u Keka‘a

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MASON PETERS HIRATA, TED GAUBERT, J. ANTHONY MARTINEZ, JASON MOORE

Exploring the ocean at night is like opening a doorway into another world. As the sun fades, a nocturnal cast of characters switches places with the day’s marine life.

Witness the action with help from the pros at 5 Star Scuba, who lead experienced divers on a nighttime tour in the waters near Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock). Scuba gear is included in the price of the excursion. Open-water certification required for night dives. 5StarScuba.com

Lahaina Stables Your ticket to unbridled wilderness awaits at Lahaina Stables. Wranglers double as tour guides, leading riders through the foothills of the West Maui Mountains, sharing the island’s history along the way. Trot past wild sugarcane and wiliwili trees, while spotting the islands of Kaho‘olawe, Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i across the Pacific. To truly appreciate Maui’s sublime interplay of light, land, and sky, saddle up for the picturesque Sunset Ride. Private tours and lessons available. Get your spurs on at 808-667-2222 or MauiHorse.com.

Obon Festivals

Every weekend in summer, Maui’s Buddhist temples welcome one and all to the centuries-old tradition of obon. Families pray and clean the graves of departed relatives—but it’s not a somber occasion. The festival is marked by vibrant kimono, bright lanterns, dancing and booming taiko drums. Lahaina Hongwanji will host an obon festival August 7 and 8. For a complete schedule, visit MauiMagazine.net/EverydayMaui.

Halloween in Lahaina

It’s the one night of the year when Front Street closes to vehicular traffic, and ghosts, superheroes, and other masked revelers converge for ghoulish fun. At 4:30 p.m., the 37th annual Keiki (children’s ) Halloween Costume Parade travels down Front Street to Banyan Tree Park. Live entertainment begins at 6 p.m. at Campbell Park, between the Wharf Cinema Center and Baldwin Home Museum.

From 7 to 9 p.m., everyone is invited to enter the Costume Contest at Banyan Tree Park—where a DJ will be spinning the tunes from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. Info at VisitLahaina.com.

Aloha Craft Fair

Browse for treasures and take home a Maui memory. Island crafters offer their handmade creations—from souvenirs and jewelry to carvings and art pieces—9 a.m. to 4 p.m. every Monday at the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas’ Aloha Pavilion.

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 LEARN

History buffs will want to visit the Old Lahaina Courthouse to see this free exhibit of artifacts from Hawai‘i’s rich, eclectic past—including the actual flag that flew above the courthouse during the Hawaiian monarchy. Assistant Postmaster Arthur Waal was ordered to lower the flag and raise the Stars and Stripes in 1898, when the U.S. annexed the Islands.

Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. LahainaRestoration.org

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J. ANTHONY MARTINEZ

Lahaina Heritage Museum

SEE LEARN DO

Scrimshaw Exhibit

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF WHALING MUSEUM, COURTESY OF MAUI NEI NATIVE EXPEDITIONS, JASON MOORE, LEHIA APANA

In the 1800s, Lahaina was the center of the Pacific whaling trade. Sailors filled long hours at sea by creating scrimshaw—the seafarer’s lonesome art. With razor-sharp knives, they engraved images into whale bones and teeth, then rubbed them with ink to bring out the design. You’ll find an extensive collection of scrimshaw at Whalers Village Museum, along with other artifacts from this colorful period in Maui’s history.

Call 808-661-5992, or visit WhalersMuseum.com.

Olowalu Cultural Reserve Spanning more than seventy-four acres from the West Maui Mountains to the sea, Olowalu was once a thriving ahupua‘a (native Hawaiian land division). Today this classroom without walls features cultural and archeological sites, including nearly seventy petroglyphs—one of the largest collections on Maui. During community workdays held the third Saturday of every month, volunteers help turn back the clock: building lo‘i kalo (taro paddies), planting native species, and restoring the reserve to its former glory. 808-663-0378; OlowaluCulturalReserve.org

Tennis Lessons

Home of the state’s only professional tennis tournament—the Royal Lahaina Challenger—the Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch offers personalized lessons for novices, elites, and players in-between.

The ranch can also match you with a playing partner for whatever level you’re at. Located at 2780 Keka‘a Drive; and the Sheraton Maui Tennis Club, 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway. TennisMaui.com.

Maui Nei Native Expeditions Local guides share stories of Lahaina’s cultural history and significant sites. Visitors will journey through a day in the life of old Hawai‘i and get hands-on experience in making kaula (hao cordage), pounding kalo (taro) into poi, discovering lā‘au lapa‘au (Hawaiian medicinal plants), learning hula steps, and weaving lauhala (pandanus leaves). Tours begin on the steps of the storied Old Lahaina Courthouse, and are operated by Friends of Moku‘ula, a nonprofit organization dedicated to restoring the historic site. MauiNei.com

Passion of Movement Classes at Royal Lahaina

Looking to continue your active lifestyle while far from home? Sip a few too many mai tais, or feeling sluggish after days of decadent meals? (We get it—you are on vacation!) Whatever your motivation, the fitness instructors at Passion of Movement have your back. In fact, the toughest part may be narrowing the choices—classes include yoga, Pilates, spinning, hula aerobics, barre, cardio, kickboxing and more. PassionOfMovement.com Fall/Winter 2015-2016 77

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Pali Trail Hike

BOB BANGERTER

First, a disclaimer: This rugged hike is more than five miles long, lacks shade, and has enough uphill sections to set your calves on fire. But the challenge reaps major rewards, including unparalleled views of Molokini crater and Kaho‘olawe and Lāna‘i islands. During whale season, watch humpbacks playing offshore. The trail snakes along a rocky cliff above Highway 30.

(Don’t worry, cars aren’t visible during the hike.)

Trailheads are located near Mā‘alaea Harbor Shops on one end, and Ukumehame on the other.

To experience the entire hike, we suggest parking a car at each trailhead. For just a taste of the trail, park at one end, go half the distance you can comfortably hike, and return to your starting point.

Either way, start early to avoid the intense heat of midday. Details at HawaiiTrails.eHawaii.Gov.

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

West Maui Kumuwai

Rest, relaxation and . . . restoration. If this is your idea of a good time, West Maui Kumuwai can help connect you with environmental groups in need of volunteers—from beach cleanups with the Surfrider Foundation to building rain gardens that help protect our reefs. For a list of workdays and special events, visit WestMauiKumuwai.org/Events.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: LEHIA APANA, COURTESY OF ROY'S RESTAURANT, KBRA/PETER LIU, COURTESY OF WESTIN MAUI

Roy’s Chocolate Soufflé Sure, many restaurants serve their version of chocolate soufflé. But when Chef Roy Yamaguchi put it on his menu, this beloved dessert became a sought-after classic. Google “Roy’s chocolate soufflé” and you’ll find at least a dozen websites offering a recipe for this treat: a warm, rich cake with a pool of chocolate sauce inside. You could try replicating this molten confection at home, but we suggest leaving it to the experts at Roy’s Kā‘anapali. Your taste buds will be thrilled you did. Call 808-669-6999 or visit RoysHawaii.com/Roys-Kaanapali.html.

Botanical Tour The Westin Maui Resort & Spa offers its guests a guided botanical tour on Wednesdays at 9 a.m. Participants explore the hotel’s sprawling gardens, and learn about Polynesian-introduced crops such as kalo (taro) and ‘awa (used in ceremonial rituals). The tour brings alive the history of early Polynesians, and the introduction of modern plants. Not staying at The Westin?

Take a self-guided tour with your smart phone. Scan the QR code featured on each botanical tour sign for detailed descriptions.

WestinMaui.com/Wildlife

Maui Tastemaker Series

Island flavors take center plate during this foodie series celebrating Maui’s bounty. Held monthly at Japengo in the Hyatt Regency Maui, the series features a five-course meal presented in partnership with Maui-based purveyors. Diners will meet the personalities behind the dishes, while enjoying local fare in an intimate and interactive environment. JapengoMaui.com

Whalers Village Farmers’ Market

Eat like a local during this “Grown on Maui” Farmers’ Market, held 7:30 to 11:30 a.m. September 5 and November 14.

Island farmers sell the fruit—and veggies—of their labor at this oceanfront venue. Epicurean delights include grass-fed beef, taro, and Maui’s famous bulb, the Kula onion. The market also offers coffee, sugarcane, pineapples, seafood and more. Free admission and parking with validation. For details, visit KaanapaliResort.com.

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Calendar KĀ‘ANAPALI EVENTS December Gingerbread Village at the Sheraton Maui No snow? No problem! Christmas cheer will fill the air as the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa’s whimsical Gingerbread Village comes to life in this beloved holiday tradition. Each year, the Sheraton partners with Big Brothers Big Sisters: “littles” and “bigs” create gingerbread houses, and the hotel’s engineering team assembles the village. There will also be holiday cookies, and caroling by the Sacred Hearts School Choir. The Gingerbread Village remains lighted each evening for viewing through December 31.

9.5-mile relay across the sometimes treacherous ‘Au‘au Channel. Race concludes at Kā‘anapali Beach. Come cheer the swimmers on! Sponsored by Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel.

MauiChannelSwim.com

August 8

Maui Craft Session, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa’s Ocean Lawn Here’s to craft spirits, beer and cigars! Industry experts lead seminars throughout the day; evening highlights businesses rooted in small-batch production. Sheraton-Maui.com/Events

September 10–13

September 4–6

September 20

Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival, Kā‘anapali Beach Resort This statewide gastronomic celebration expands to Maui. Two of Hawai‘i’s James Beard Awardwinning chefs, Alan Wong and Roy Yamaguchi, join a Who’s Who of the culinary world to offer cooking demos, tasting sessions and wine pairings. The festival kicks off Friday morning with Roy’s Golf Classic on the Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Course, followed by two must-do (and must-eat) events on Saturday: a Grown on Maui farmers’ market at Whalers Village, and the Maui on My Mind dinner prepared by eight renowned chefs at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa. On Sunday, the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa hosts a six-course dinner honoring legendary talent manager and Maui resident Shep Gordon.

HawaiiFoodAndWineFestival.com

September 5 & November 14 Whalers

Village Farmers’ Market Stock up on fresh island bounty at this colorful farmers’ market.

For details, see page 79.

September 6

Maui Channel Swim, Lāna‘i to Maui The Pacific Ocean sets the stage for this 80 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Maui Jazz & Blues Festival, Royal Lahaina Resort Grammy winner Russell Malone and blues legend Kenny Neal are among the music makers to take the stage at this annual festival. MauiJazzAndBlues Festival.com Maui Marathon, Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center to Whalers Village This scenic marathon leads past sugarcane fields, historic Lahaina and ocean views, ending at Whalers Village in Kā‘anapali. Not ready to run 26.2 miles? Sign up for the half-marathon happening the same day, or join the 10K, 5K or Bubba Gumps Front Street Mile on September 19. MauiMarathonHawaii.com

September 23 A Toast to Tuscany at Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas Join Frances Mayes, author of the New York Times bestseller Under the Tuscan Sun, for a fun-filled evening that will treat diners to a four-course dinner under the stars, paired with Frances Mayes’s Tuscan Sun Wines. The author will be available to talk story and sign wine bottles. 6 p.m. For tickets, call 808-662-3254.

October 3 Maui Paddle for a Cure, Hanakao‘o Beach Park, Kā‘anapali Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa cosponsors this fun paddle that helps raise awareness and funds for Susan G. Komen Hawaii. The event is open

to standup paddle, kayak or canoe, with participants paddling from the beach to Whalers Village and back. KomenHawaii.org

October 23 & 24 Black Rock Dinner & Farm Series, Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Executive Chef Greg Gaspar leads this culinary celebration, which begins with a farm-inspired five-course dinner at the Sheraton’s oceanfront Black Rock Kitchen. Diners will savor Mauigrown ingredients and selected wine pairings, and meet the farmer and winemaker in an intimate culinary experience. Next morning, guests may tour a local farm, followed by a cooking demonstration and gourmet lunch in the field. Sheraton-Maui.com/Events November 13–15 Hula o nā Keiki, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Some of the finest young students of hula compete in ancient and modern versions, chant, and costume. The weekend also features demonstrations and displays of Hawaiian arts and crafts, entertainment and more. See story on page 72.

January 1, 2016 Hi‘uwai Cleansing Ceremony, Kaanapali Alii Hotel manager and Hawaiian cultural advisor Fred Torres will lead this traditional seawater cleansing, beginning at 6 a.m. on the beach fronting the Kaanapali Alii Resort.

January 23–31 The Royal Lahaina Challenger, Royal Lahaina Tennis Ranch Top male professional players (ranked No. 50 and above) vie for a $50,000 purse in singles and doubles tennis. Community events include youth and adult clinics, and social activities.

RoyalLahainaChallenger.com

COURTESY OF SHERATON MAUI

Ongoing Maui Tastemaker Series, Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa Hyatt’s award-winning restaurant hosts this epicurean series once a month. See page 79 for details, or visit JapengoMaui.com.

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Fall/Winter 2015-2016 81

Calendar

MAUI EVENTS September 10–12 Kū Mai Ka Hula, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, One Cameron Way, Kahului This international competition features award-winning hālau (hula troupes) competing in solo and group performances.

Male and female dancers will perform both kahiko (traditional) and ‘auana (modern) hula stylings, judged by prestigious kumu hula (hula teachers). MauiArts.org

Contest, Lahaina Arts Society’s Old Jail Gallery, 648 Wharf St., Lahaina Each year, local artists compete to create an official Lahaina poster. Juried entries will be on display.

Sponsored by LahainaTown Action Committee and Lahaina Arts Society. LahainaArts.com

August 21–30 Evita, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, One Cameron Way, Kahului Hawai‘i’s top-selling female vocalist of all time, Amy Hānaiali‘i returns to her roots in musical theater (and her home island of Maui) to perform the title role of Eva Peron in the Maui Academy of Performing Arts’ production of this iconic rock musical. Fridays and Saturdays 7:30 p.m.; Sundays 2 p.m. MauiArts.org September 24–27 Maui Fair, War Memo-

rial Complex, Kahului Bring the family to one of Maui’s oldest and best-loved traditions, featuring favorite local foods, entertainment, midway rides and games, livestock, horticulture, crafts and more. MauiFair.com

September 25 & 26 Chinese Moon Festival, Wo Hing Museum, 858 Front St., Lahaina Celebrate Maui’s agricultural harvest—and rich cultural history—during a traditional Chinese Moon Festival. Sample Chinese tea and moon cakes, and explore lantern making, calligraphy, music and more. Museum hours are 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Moon Festival activities begin at 1 p.m.

808-661-3262; LahainaResoration.org 82 Kā‘anapali Magazine

Old Pioneer Mill Smokestack, Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina Explore historical displays, island foods, a farmers’ market, and a kids’ carnival zone during this annual West Maui tradition.

Come hungry and sample dishes from dozens of Maui restaurants while watching live entertainment by popular island musicians. 5–10:30 p.m. LahainaRestoration.org

November 7 Made in Maui County Festival, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, One Cameron Way, Kahului This popular festival highlights some of the best products Maui County has to offer—from specialty foods and fresh produce to jewelry and collectibles—all in one convenient outdoor venue. Arrive early for the best selection. MauiArts.org November 23–25

Maui Jim Maui Invitational, Lahaina Civic Center, 1840 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lahaina Top collegiate teams battle it out at this popular annual event that’s been giving basketball fans something extra to celebrate on Thanksgiving weekend since 1984. Nearly 100 schools representing twenty-three conferences and forty states have competed in the Maui Invitational. This year’s field includes host Chaminade, Indiana, Kansas, St. John’s, UCLA, UNLV, Vanderbilt and Wake Forest. MauiInvitational.com

November 23–December 24

Hui Holidays, Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center,

2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao Find that oneof-a-kind gift in this artisan showcase: jewelry, ceramics, paintings, prints, photography, fiber, glass, holiday ornaments, Hui Print Collection calendars and more. HuiNoeau.com

January 6–10, 2016 Hyundai Tournament of Champions, Plantation Course, Kapalua Resort The season opener for the 2016 PGA Tour features a winners-only format of 2015 champions. Catch a free shuttle to the tournament at Whalers Village. PGATour.com/ Hyundai January 17

Maui Oceanfront Marathon The course starts in Wailea and runs along the ocean to Kamehameha Iki Park in Lahaina.

Includes a half-marathon, 15K, 10K and 5K races. MauiOceanfrontMarathon.com

February 12–15 Whale Tales, RitzCarlton, Kapalua An international gathering of scientists and conservationists teach about Maui’s humpback whales. Activities include presentations, parties and a benefit whalewatching cruise. Whale Tales supports whale research on Maui and across the Pacific.

WhaleTrust.org

Events are subject to change.

Please call to confirm before heading out.

COURTESY OF MARSHA AGUON

August 4–September 7 Lahaina Poster October 16 &17 Lahaina Plantation Days,