W HE RE T HE W ORLD C OMES T O P LA Y
WI N TE R / SPR I NG 2014
oyster perpetual and submariner are trademarks.
oys ter perpe tual subma riner date in 18 k t white gold
Seasonal Whale Watching*
Mauiâ€™s Best Snorkeling
DINNER & SUNSET SAILS
Romantic Trade Wind Sail Assorted Gourmet Pupus, Antipasto Platter, Meatballs, Soft Drinks and Cocktails Dinner: Chicken, Fish & Salad
WEST MAUI SNORKEL SAIL
1 Pristine Snorkel Site, All Equipment Provided, Expert Instruction Complete Deli Style Lunch with Juice and Soft Drinks Trade Wind Sail Home with Open Bar
PREMIER SNORKEL SAIL
2 Pristine Snorkel Stops, All Equipment Provided, Continental Breakfast, Coffee, Full BBQ Lunch, Juice and Soft Drinks Sail Home with Open Bar
*December 15th through April 15th 4 Daily Whale Watches Experienced Naturalist on-board Hydrophone to hear the whales sing Sunset Whale Watches too!
Deluxe Snorkel, Whale Watch & Evening Sails Departing Daily from Kaanapali Beach
Fun for the entire family
Catered by award winning chef Paris Nabavi
Convenient loading from Kaanapali Beach
Call to Reserve Your Seats Now!
All cruises depart from Kaanapali Beach fronting Leilaniâ€™s Restaurant.
Please visit www.teralani.net
With 90 stores and restaurants, you can easily shop for beach gear and vacation keepsakes, enjoy a leisurely meal at any of our three, island-style dining spots, and explore the whaling life at our Whale Museum â€“ all just a few steps from the sand. Whale Museum open daily
open daily from 9:30amâ€“10:0 0pm | 808- 661-4567 2435 Kaanapali Parkway, Maui | whalersv il lage.com
/ WhalersVil lage
�able of �ontents FEaturES King Sugar 28
No commercial venture has influenced the course of Island history, politics and culture more than sugar. A decade and a half after the last cane harvest in West Maui, its impact endures in surprising ways.
Fathoming a Mystery 34
Why do whales sing? Among humpbacks, only males do—but not for the reasons you’d think.
Kahekili’s Leap 40
Below the Sheraton Maui, a lava promontory juts into the sea. Its nickname honors a warrior chief who risked not only life and limb, but his eternal soul.
Kā‘anapali by the Numbers 42 How do we love this place where the world comes to play? Let us count the ways!
Body by Kā‘anapali 48
Would you rather rejuvenate with a challenging workout or be pampered at an indulgent spa? Either way, we’ve got you covered.
Racing with the Wind 64
Each summer, Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Association teams spend a weekend in the waters off Kā‘anapali—racing each other and offering free rides.
On our cover: a humpback whale calf perfects its swimming skills by playing in the ocean off the Lahaina coast. Each winter, the whales return to these warm Hawaiian waters to mate and give birth. Cesere Brothers Photography. NMFS Permit # 10018-1 During whale season, John and Dan Cesere donate their time to the Keiki Koholā Project, providing photographic images and video-footage of Maui’s humpback whales. These images contribute to ongoing research, documenting the underwater behavior of mother-and-calf pairs. To learn more about the Keiki Koholā Project, visit www.caringforcalves.org. For information on Cesere Brothers Photography, visit www.ceserebrothers.com.
8 Kā‘anapali Magazine
peter liu/kā‘anapali beach resort association
Ever wish you could ride a Hawaiian sailing canoe? Here’s your chance. (See story on page 64.)
Maui’s most exciting luau!
‘Aipono Award Winner
Best Maui Luau! Experience an evening of authentic Polynesian performances, including the Samoan Fire Knife Dance, while you enjoy an all-you-can-eat dinner buffet and open bar in the newly renovated Sunset Terrace, oceanside at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa!
Please call 808 667 4727 or visit www.drumsofthepacificmaui.com
The trademark HYATT and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2014 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
200 Nohea Kai Drive Ka’anapali, HI maui.hyatt.com
DeparTMeNTS We’re pleased to introduce some of the talented folks behind Kā‘anapali Magazine.
A Word from the President 16 Meet Thomas Bell, president of Hawaiian Hotels & Resorts and current president of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association.
Where . . . ? 18
Keep our resort map handy and find what you’re looking for.
Nīele 20 A hotel that operates on ancient Hawaiian values . . . a plant whose half-flower recalls two star-crossed lovers . . . if we’ve sparked your nīele (curiosity), read on!
DINING Son’z Maui at Swan Court 52 At the Hyatt Regency’s fine-dining restaurant, impeccable service and distinctive cuisine are as effortless as the swans gliding past for your entertainment.
In the Kitchen 56
A conversation with celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi.
Desserts to Dream On 58
Flambéed or semifrozen, elegant or whimsical, when it comes to treats, these Kā‘anapali restaurants save the best for last.
Dining Guide 60
Hungry? Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it at Kā‘anapali, just a beach walk away.
10 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Legendary Swingers 70
Arnold Palmer, Jack Nicklaus, Tom Watson, Lee Trevino . . . when you’ve hosted players like these, you’ve a right to call it the Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Course.
See Learn Do 74
Looking for adventures by land or sea? Hawaiian culture or island history? Whatever activities you’re into, you’ve come to the right place.
Check here for special events and resort activities that don’t come along every day, plus a few of our favorite happenings around Maui. john giordani
To learn the Hawaiian legend behind the naupaka’s half-flowers, see page 24.
Ask about our monthly specialty burger!
An island twist on an American classic.
Island inspired burgers and handcrafted foods prepared with a gourmet flair. For reservations, call 808-667-2525 or visit westinmaui.com
The Westin Maui Resort & Spa
2365 Kaanapali Parkway, Lahaina, Hawaii 96761
Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association PUBLISHER
Haynes Publishing Group CONSULTING EDITOR
ART DIRECTOR & DESIGNER
THE MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE MAUI GET 6 ISSUES FOR ONLY $21 1 year - $21 (save 30%*) 2 years - $37 (save 38%*) 3 years - $53 (save 41%*) ORDER FROM OUR WEBSITE mauimagazine.net/subscribe
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CONTROLLER & OFFICE MANAGER
Ellie Crowe, Judy Edwards, Kyle Ellison, Jill Engledow, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Heidi Pool, Marti Rosenquist, Becky Speere, Matthew Thayer, Catherine Toth, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Bob Bangerter, Conn Brattain, Cesere Brothers, Ron Dahlquist, John Giordani, Sue Hudelson, Nina Kuna, Peter Liu, Randy Miller, Jason Moore, Jessica Pearl, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere, Matthew Thayer DISTRIBUTION & CIRCULATION
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Michael Haynes, Laura Lewark, Punahele Welch E-MAIL ADDRESS email@example.com KĀ‘ANAPALI MAGAZINE is published semiannually by Haynes Publishing Group, Inc.,
90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; (808) 242-8331. ©2014 All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. Printed in USA Individual issues are available upon written request to Haynes Publishing Group, Inc., 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793, or by email: Orders@KaanapaliMagazine.com. Cost is $3 per magazine plus postage ($5.60 in the U.S. & Canada). Payments in U.S. currency only. Kā‘anapali Magazine is produced in cooperation with Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association.
12 Kā‘anapali Magazine
RES TAUR ANT S
SPECIALT Y SHOPS
TheSnorkelStore China Bowl
Whalers General Store Island Atitudes Furnishings and Design
» Artistic Nails & Spa » China Bowl Asian Cuisine » CJ’s Deli & Diner » Edward Jones » The Hair Hale » Harris Hawaii Realty » Island Attitudes Furnishings and Design » Island Press Coffee » OneMain Financial » Round Table Pizza
» Sangrita Grill + Cantina
Artistic Nails & Spa
» Skyline Eco Adventures » The Snorkel Store » Spa Juva & FitExpress » Urgent Care West Maui » Valley Isle Fitness Center » Van Quaethem Chiropractic » Wells Fargo Home Mortgage » Whaler’s General Store » Whalers Realty
2580 Keka‘a Drive, Ka ¯‘anapali Conveniently located along Honoapi‘ilani Hwy (Hwy 30)
Atop Ka ¯‘anapali Beach Resort www.FairwayShops.com
Round Table Pizza
The Cesere Brothers are living their dream, one that began when they were children playing in shallow tide pools off the coast of Maine. It was in that frigid water that John and Dan made a pact to stick together, live on an island and pursue a career that enabled them to continue exploring the ocean they love. More than twenty years later, the Cesere brothers live on Maui and work full time as professional underwater photographers.
14 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Ellie loves researching Hawai‘i’s fascinating history. She is the award-winning author of twenty-four published books, including Exploring Lost Hawai‘i, Places of Power, History, Mystery and Magic; Kamehameha, the Boy Who Became a Warrior King; and Surfer of the Century, the Life of Duke Kahanamoku. Her stories have appeared in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine, Hawai‘i Magazine, and on the History and Travel channels.
An award-winning writer specializing in Maui history, Jill moved to the island in 1968. After seventeen years as a reporter and editor at The Maui News, she wrote The Maui News 1900–2000: 100 Years as Maui’s Newspaper. Her books include Island Life 101: A Newcomer’s Guide to Hawai‘i, and Haleakalā: A History of the Maui Mountain. Her first novel, The Island Decides, is available on Amazon.com.
A freelance writer who was raised in Upcountry Maui and lives in Kā‘anapali, Kyle has explored sixty-five countries. His travel writing has appeared in AOL Travel, Journey, The Huffington Post, Gadling, AFAR, Viator, and Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine. He is the author of the 2014 Moon Handbook to Maui, Moloka‘i, and Lāna‘i. When not writing, Kyle can usually be found stand-up paddling off the Kā‘anapali shoreline.
A Hawai‘i writer and conservation professional, Judy is a fan of quiet heroes and meaningful, unsung work. ”An ongoing goal of mine is to shine some light on under-the-radar overachievers who are diligent, soulful and passionate. Defending the integrity of the sacred and irreplaceable lands and waters of Hawai‘i is also my mission.” Reach her voicemail, and it will tell you she’s either at work, asleep, or in the water.
Daniel Ikaika Ito
“The Hawaiian sailing canoe is the perfect metaphor for indigenous culture,” says Daniel Ikaika Ito, who penned the Wa‘a Kiakahi piece in this issue. ”This is the best way to share Hawaiian culture: incorporating native practices into our present-day lives.” Ito is editor of Contrast Magazine and contributes to ESPN.com, Mana Magazine and PaieaProjects.com. He coaches surfing at Kamehameha Schools Kapālama.
Heidi delights in experiencing everything Maui has to offer, and sharing her discoveries with readers. “I meet interesting people, do things I may not normally do, and learn a great deal along the way,” she says. Besides Kā‘anapali Magazine, Heidi’s work appears in Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Edible Hawaiian Islands, Fodor’s Maui, Maui Concierge, and several other visitor publications.
Marti Rosenquist A foodie from way back, Marti has lived in West Maui for over ten years and is a regular contributor to Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s dining section. An intrepid world traveler, she is always on the lookout for the next great food trend and yet-to-be-discovered taste sensation.
Raised in Hilo by a Hawai‘i-born Japanese mother and a father hailing from the backwoods of Alabama, Becky grew up eating chicken hekka, koko and rice, along with butter beans and homemade smoked meats. Years later, she opened Pa‘uwela Café on Maui; Ha‘ikū folks still miss her cooking there. Nowadays Becky does research and development for various food products, and serves as dining editor of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.
Matthew Thayer Matthew learned the game of golf from his father. He was a three-year letterman on his high school golf team, and has been covering golf on Maui for more than thirty years. The longtime staffer for The Maui News has won more than sixty state and national awards for his photography and writing. Thayer is also author of the 30,000 B.C. Chronicles, a timetravel adventure book series available online.
Catherine E. Toth Born and raised on O‘ahu, Catherine has been chronicling her adventures in her blog, The Cat Dish (www.thecatdish. com), for nearly a decade. A newspaper reporter for ten years, she continues to freelance—in between teaching journalism, hitting the surf and eating everything in sight— for national and local print and online publications. She lives in East Honolulu with her dogs, Sunny and Indy, and an extensive surfboard collection.
Shannon is a freelance writer who grew up in Hawai‘i and succumbed entirely to its charms. When she isn’t busy writing about rare and endangered plants or particularly fascinating local characters, she’s out looking for them with her fourlegged sidekick, Spike. Follow her adventures on Twitter: @swianecki.
Hawaiian Print Beach Towel ($1499 Value) with a purchase of $50 or more! Scan this QR Code with your mobile device and present coupon at store.
*$50 Minimum purchase excludes
cost of free item, Hawaii beverage container fee, purchase of gift cards, liquor , pharmacy and bus pass.
HONOKOWAI 3350 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Lahaina 96761 • (808)442-4700
KIHEI 1310 South Kihei Road, Kihei 96753 • (808)442-4750
Winter-Spring 2014 15
Letter from the
KĀ‘ANAPALI BEACH RESORT ASSOCIATION
On behalf of all the members of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association, I am honored
to welcome you to the second issue of Kā‘anapali Magazine. This beautiful publication celebrates the world-class hotels and condos, restaurants, spas, retail, ocean activities and golf that make Kā‘anapali the exceptional resort it is. Our ﬁrst issue took an in-depth look at the resort’s ﬁfty-year history. When Kā‘anapali opened its doors in 1963, it was as Hawai‘i’s ﬁrst master-planned destination resort. The visionaries who conceived Kā‘anapali may not have fully understood how complex and diverse it would become, but they foresaw how the natural beauty of the area would be cherished by tourists and locals alike. It still is. In 2013, the pristine 1.6-mile white-sand beach that fronts Kā‘anapali Resort was voted the Best Beach in America by TripAdvisor. Our previous issue also explored Kā‘anapali’s signiﬁcance as an agricultural area. We celebrated MauiGrown Coﬀee and its Kā‘anapali-based farm, which grows coﬀee beans of world-class acclaim. In this issue we turn towards Hawai‘i’s plantation past, and the signiﬁcance sugar has played in the Islands. Remnants of this chapter in West Maui’s history remain—in landmarks like the Pioneer Mill smokestack, and in tributes like the Sugar Cane Train, which chugs through Lahaina and Kā‘anapali each day. This issue makes its appearance at the height of whale season, and we would be remiss not to feature the natural wonder of the massive yet graceful humpback whales that migrate to Hawai‘i annually. Theirs is an incredible story of traveling thousands of miles from Arctic waters, year after year, to mate and give birth here. While the humpbacks can be viewed from whale-watching tours and the whaling museum in Whalers Village, we hope that you will take the time to enjoy watching them from your balcony or the beach. We are conﬁdent that you will fall in love with Kā‘anapali Resort, appropriately honored and celebrated worldwide as the destination “Where the World Comes to Play.” Please enjoy relaxing and reading Kā‘anapali Magazine from cover to cover; feel free to take it with you as a souvenir from what we know will be a dream vacation for you and your loved ones. For more information, visit www.kaanapaliresort.com. Our comprehensive website oﬀers 24-hour access to information, photography, rates, and contact information. Please let us know if we can assist you while you visit Maui. I am conﬁdent that the memories from this vacation will keep you returning for years to come! Mahalo,
Thomas Bell President, Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association
16 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Myths of Maui Oceanfront | Ka-‘anapali Beach
& CULINARY FEAST
As the brilliant orange of the setting sun flares across the Pacific, the sound of a conch shell fills the air. Drums beat rhythmically. The evening is primed for magic.
Here on the shores of legendary Kā‘anapali Beach, Maui’s favorite and longest running oceanfront luau takes you on a magical journey through time and space. From a sumptuous traditional Hawaiian buffet to a dazzling celebration of music, song and dance, you will be spellbound as performers weave authentic myths of Hawai‘i, Tahiti and Samoa into one of the most unforgettable evenings ever!
2780 Kekaa Drive Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii 96761
Resort Map O
N 6 5
Kai Ala Drive
28 2 3
Beach Activities of Maui Locations: Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas Royal Lahaina Resort Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach The Westin Maui Resort & Spa Marriottʻs Maui Ocean Club Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa
Hotels & Condos
A. The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas B. Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas C. Royal Lahaina Resort D. Outrigger Maui Eldorado Resort & Cabana E. Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa F. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel G. Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach H. The Westin Maui Resort & Spa i. Kaanapali Alii Resort J. Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club K. Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa L. Kā‘anapali Royal
V. Fairway Shops at kā‘anapali
Your concierge will be happy to provide a full list of resortwide attractions. Here’s a sample:
M. Kā‘anapali Golf Courses Clubhouse N. Skyline Eco Adventures O. Sugar Cane Train Station P. Kahekili Park & Keka‘a Beach Q. Nightly Sunset Cliff Dive Ceremony R. Kupanaha Magic Dinner Theater S. Whaling Museum at Whalers Village T. UFO Parasail U. Beach Activities of Maui (Teralani) 18 Kā’anapali Magazine
Artistic Nails & Spa China Bowl CJ’s Deli & Diner Edward Jones The Hair Hale Harris Hawaii Realty Island Attitudes Furnishings & Design Island Press Coffee OneMain Financial Round Table Pizza
Sangrita Grill + Cantina Skyline Eco Adventures The Snorkel Store Spa Juva & FitExpress Urgent Care West Maui Valley Isle Fitness Center VanQuaethem Chiropractic Wells Fargo Home Mortgage Whalers General Store Whalers Realty
w. Whalers village Shopping center APPAREL Billabong Blue Ginger Blue Ginger Kids Cinnamon Girl Crazy Shirts Cruise Flip Flop Shops Honolua Accessories Honolua Surf Co. Honolua Wahine Hula Honeys Jams World Kahala Karamel
Lani’s Maggie Coulombe Malibu Shirts Maui WaterWear PacSun Quiksilver/Roxy Soul Lei T-Shirt Factory Tommy Bahama Tori Richard Volcom Boutique Coach Louis Vuitton
JEwELRy Baron & Leeds Dolphin Galleries Jewelry Jessica’s Gems Maui Divers Jewelry Na Hoku Pandora Pearl Factory Whalers Fine Jewelry SUNDRy ABC Stores GiFt, art, Specialty Brighton Collectibles Crocs Crystal Rainbows Honolulu Cookie Company Ipu Island Crafts Island Cutie Lahaina Printsellers Lahaina Scrimshaw Martin & MacArthur Maui Toy Works Oakley Pretty Maui Petals Sand People Sandal Tree
Sephora Sunglass Hut Swarovski Crystals Totally Hawaiian Gift Gallery The Walking Company ServiceS Maui Dive & Surf on the Beach West Maui Healthcare Center REAL ESTATE Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club Monte D. Fitts, Realtors Whalers Realty Inc. Specialty Food Häagen-Dazs Maui Barista Coffee & Smoothies Yogurtland FOOD COURT Fresh . . . Eat Well, Live Well Nikki’s Pizza Subway
X. Shops at westin Maui y. The Shops at the Hyatt Z. royal trading co.
Kāʻanapali Beach Resort Association Keka
K R 13
X H 21
Dining 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27.
Basil Tomatoes Italian Grille Black Rock Steak & Seafood Black Rock Terrace Castaway Café China Bowl CJ’s Deli & Diner Colonnade Café Food Court: Whalers Village Halona Kai Hula Grill & Barefoot Bar Japengo Pacific Restaurant & Sushi Lounge Kai Ala Market Kupanaha Dinner Show Leilani’s on the Beach Maui Fish & Pasta Ocean Pool Bar & Grill Pailolo Bar & Grill Paradise Grill Pūlehu, an Italian Grill Pu‘ukoli‘i General Store Relish Burger Bistro Round Table Pizza Roy’s Kā‘anapali Royal Ocean Terrace Restaurant & Lounge Sangrita Grill + Cantina Sea Dogs Son’z Maui at Swan Court
28. 29. 30. 31.
Teppan-yaki Dan Tiki Bar & Grill Tiki Terrace Restaurant ‘Ūmalu
Spas & Salons Alii Spa (Kaanapali Alii) Hale Mana Wellness Center (Marriott) Heavenly Spa* (Westin Maui) Hina Mana Salon & Spa (Aston at the Whaler) The Spa at Black Rock* (Sheraton) Spa Helani* (Westin Kā‘anapali) The Spa at Hyatt Regency Maui* * Full spa (wet and dry therapies)
Lu¯‘au Drums of the Pacific (Hyatt Regency) Maui Nui Lū‘au at Black Rock (Sheraton) The Myths of Maui Lū‘au (Royal Lahaina Resort) Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au (Westin Maui) US Post Office 1760 Honoapi‘ilani Highway, Lahaina, HI 96761 (808) 661-0904 1.15 miles from the resort. Take Honoapi‘ilani Highway to Lahaina; turn left at the Leiali‘i Parkway stoplight.
Kā‘anapali Trolley Tel: (808) 667-0648 Kā‘anapali area only. Travel complimentary among Kā‘anapali hotels, golf course, Whalers Village Shopping Center, and Fairway Shops. ADA lifts. Runs from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
Maui Public Transit (Roberts) Shuttle Tel: (808) 871-4838 From Whalers Village Shopping Center in Kā‘anapali, ride to Kapalua Resort, Lahaina Cannery Mall or Wharf Cinema Center in Lahaina, or Walmart/Kmart in Kahului. $1–$2 between each point (Call for details.)
Hyatt to Golf Course........................... 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Whalers Village..................... 0.5 Mile Hyatt to Sheraton................................ 1 Mile Sheraton to Golf Course..................... 1 Mile Hyatt to Royal Lahaina........................ 1.5 Miles Royal Lahaina to Golf Course.............. 1.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Lahaina (Banyan Tree).... 3 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kapalua Airport............. 3.5 Miles Kā‘anapali to Kahului Airport.............. 26 Miles Winter-Spring 2014 19
Why are these people smiling? They’ve just arrived for a pleasant hawaiian holiday. Company cofounder (and pilot) ed hogan is at center, holding the ‘ukulele. at right, his son Gary carries on the family tradition, smiles and all.
In December of 1962, the opening of the Royal Lahaina launched Hawai‘i’s first master-planned resort destination, Kā‘anapali. Then as now, the crown jewel of the resort was Kā‘anapali Beach: three miles of pristine white sand and crystal blue water. Today, visitors and residents are still able to enjoy the Royal Lahaina much as it was in 1962, complete with restored original cottages and lush grounds that stretch graciously to the same open shoreline. The man responsible for retaining and renovating this treasure is Gary Hogan. “When I teach our entrepreneurial class,” says Gary, “I always start the first lecture by telling the students, ‘When you find something you are passionate about, go for it!’” The CEO of Hawaiian Hotels & Resorts, Gary began his career at age seven. His parents, Ed and Lynn Hogan, were giants of the wholesale travel industry. “Dad never let us sit still,” Gary recalls. “He would pay us a penny per piece to string bag tags for luggage. We worked in the company every summer.” Ed and Lynn founded Pleasant Travel Services in Point Pleasant, New Jersey, in 1959, the same year Hawai‘i became the fiftieth state. In 1962, the Hogans relocated to California, eventually changing the company name to Pleasant Hawaiian Holidays. Within a decade, it was the largest and most successful West Coast travel company to Hawai‘i. “My dad pioneered the concept that people could buy a package vacation and still choose what they wanted to do, rather than be moved around like cattle, as our competitors were doing.” That, says Hogan, is when Pleasant Hawaiian Holidays really took off. By the late seventies, the company began acquiring hotels. “My parents understood we needed destination control, and we did that by purchasing properties.” By the late eighties, Pleasant Hawaiian Holidays was working with more than 30,000 travel agents and fielding more than 10,000 calls a day, filling their six Hawai‘i properties with happy travelers. 20 Kā‘anapali Magazine
STORy By DIANE HAyNES WOODBuRN
Gary made the move to Hawai‘i in his mid-twenties, working on special projects for Pleasant. It wasn’t long before he caught the entrepreneurial bug, envisioning a new Hawai‘i-based division. “My dad was against it—I wanted to borrow $100,000, but there were no free rides from him. Thankfully, my mom intervened, and they agreed to lend me $50,000. I paid it back in three months.” His success soon led to his position as president of the company’s Hawai‘i division. The next time the business expanded, it was into the air. “We started off by leasing two L-1011s,” Hogan smiles. “I remember inviting friends to fill the plane; everyone slept stretched out in the middle sections of this enormous, empty plane. Eventually, it caught on.” That’s an understatement. By the mid-nineties, Pleasant was booking over 400,000 passengers a year to Hawai‘i, their next competitor a distant five times smaller. By 1998, the company was international, serving Asia and the Pacific. “For how big we were, it never felt big,” Gary recalls. “We were always a family company; our employees were considered family, too.” In 1998, the company sold its travel division and most of its Hawai‘i properties. Gary stayed on for a few transition years, finally leaving in 2004. He became president of Hawaiian Hotels & Resorts, which manages the two remaining family-owned properties—the Royal Kona on the Big Island, and the Royal Lahaina Resort—and began repositioning them. “Kā‘anapali was quickly growing as a first-class destination. We wanted to bring this landmark property back into the luxury class.” The Hogans had been offered big bucks to sell the hotel to a mainland time-share company that wanted to build twelve more towers. Gary fought to retain the open shoreline that his family had so lovingly protected, and to bring the Royal Lahaina back to her days as a first-class, family-friendly resort—a labor of love that has included spending $35 million on rebuilding the twelve-story, 333-room tower. Family values are the foundation upon which this enormously success-
courtesy of gary hogan
Entrepreneurship Runs in the Family
“Come Chase some Rainbows with us!”
Gary’s mom, Lynn Hogan, stands outside the office of Pleasant Travel Services in Point Pleasant, New Jersey. A few years later, the family moved west, and renamed the business Pleasant Hawaiian Holidays.
FRIENDLY TRAIL GUIDES A GREAT TIME FOR ALL AGES! HONEYMOON & PRIVATE RIDES AVAILABLE AMAZING VIEWS OF LANAI & SUNSETS ful company was built, and giving back has always been part of that formula. To date, the Hogan Family Foundation has given away almost $90 million dollars. Gary’s parents began the foundation to care for abused horses and dogs, and built stables and a full veterinary clinic. Next, the family began a program that invited disadvantaged and at-risk youth, and military kids whose parents were away on duty, to ride, groom, and care for the animals. Today the Hogans operate two ranches in Hidden Hills and Simi Valley, where many of the youngsters become proficient enough to enter riding competitions. “It’s incredible what caring for animals and winning ribbons can do for a kid’s self-esteem,” Gary says, as proudly as if the kids were his own. The family also operates two Hogan Entrepreneurial Programs, one at Gonzaga University in Spokane, Washington; the other at O‘ahu’s Chaminade University. Each is designed to equip students with the skills, connections, and mindset to start something new. “Our motto,” Gary explains, “is ‘doing business things that make social sense; doing social things that make business sense.’” Gary Hogan isn’t done yet. “I’ve always loved aviation,” he says. He obtained his pilot license when he moved to Hawai‘i in 1987, and purchased his first private plane in 2007 to commute from Honolulu to the hotels in Kā‘anapali and Kona. That’s when the entrepreneurial bug reappeared. “Most charter planes are safe, but boring. I thought, ‘Let’s buy a new plane with beautiful interior, rich woodwork, DVD players, the works, and make it available for private charters.’” He even purchased seats from a plane once owned by Brad Pitt. Royal Pacific Air now boasts one of the most glamorous charter planes in Hawai‘i, offering custom tours and fantasy golf outings. No matter what your whim may be, Gary promises he has a package to fit. “I tell my students, ‘You gotta love what you do,’” Gary smiles. “If you don’t, change.”
All rides take you along the foothills of the West Maui Mountains. You will be treated to extraordinary views of Molokai, Lahaina Town & Lahaina Harbor. We ride into Launiupoko Valley where we dismount for refreshments at our picnic table which is perched upon a ridge situated next to an acre large pond fed by clear, cool mountain stream water.
HORSEBACK RIDE ON MAUI”
Ask our guests on TripAdvisor Book Direct At:
mauihorse.com Or Call Us Today:
808.667.2222 Winter-Spring 2014 21
Employing Po‘okela STORy By RITA GOLDMAN
22 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Since initiating its Po‘okela Program nearly thirty years ago, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel has maintained one of the highest rates of return visits on Maui. When guests depart, staff present them with a brown kukui-nut lei and invite them to bring it back on their next visit. Each time they do, a white kukui nut is added. Some guests come back so often, they choose to exchange the numerous white nuts for single ones carved with the number of repeat visits: 5, 10, 15, 20. . . .
to Moku‘ula, a royal island guarded by a sacred lizard. The site had been long buried and forgotten, but after visiting it, a group of hotel employees formed the Friends of Moku‘ula. For more than two decades, they have worked to raise public awareness and funding for Moku‘ula’s restoration. White had hired Sablas to direct the Po‘okela Program. “Mike said, ‘I want to make this place Hawaiian,’” she recalls. Sablas did what any self-respecting Hawaiian would do: Look to the source. She invited kūpuna (elders) Pua and Ned Lindsey to come to the hotel once a week and talk story with guests. Those visits blossomed into an ongoing kūpuna program that lets guests mingle with Hawaiian elders and craftspeople. And every Friday, a dozen or so employees stop their regular duties and gather in the lobby to sing songs and dance hula. “That’s Lia,” says Sablas, pointing to one of the singers. “She’s in Housekeeping, but she loves to sing. The guy with the guitar is our computer geek.” Encouraging housekeepers and bellmen, engineers and waitresses to interact with guests may be an unorthodox business practice, but guests love it. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel consistently has one of the highest rates of occupancy and return guests. “What surprised me about Po‘okela,” says Engineering’s Hanalei Peters, “was how it changed the attitude of all of our employees. Not a person who has passed through Po‘okela, it didn’t help them in some way.”
Hanalei Peters rests a pair of beefy forearms on the table and leans in to talk. The mellifluous name seems at odds with this rough-and-tumble local guy who has worked at Kā’anapali Beach Hotel for forty years. He remembers the day he met Mike White, who had just become the hotel’s general manager, and how White wanted every employee to attend classes in Hawaiian culture. “I said, ‘Sounds like a good plan.’ But I thought, ‘Boss, you’re gonna have to prove yourself.’” White had been working at the Big Island’s Mauna Lani Bay Hotel when he attended a tourism summit where Hawaiian leaders urged the industry to help preserve Hawaiian culture. “They said if we don’t, we’ll lose the essence of this place. I took that to heart.” White asked his own boss, a native Hawaiian named Kenny Brown, what they could do. “Kenny said, ‘Let’s call George Kanahele.’” A renowned scholar, Dr. Kanahele had literally written the book on Hawaiian values: Kū Kanaka—Stand Tall. Together, the men began to design a program that would come to be called Po‘okela, Hawaiian for “excellence.” Then Amfac, developer of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort, asked White to head their Maui hotel. With Brown’s approval, White took Po‘okela with him. The first class was held in May 1986. In those days, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel offered guests a typical menu of cultural entertainments: pineapple cutting, lei making, rudimentary hula and ‘ukulele lessons. Po‘okela was different. “We knew it would improve the guest experience,” says White, “but the focus was on teaching our employees.” Dr. Kanahele led the first classes, which explored subjects like “The World of the Sacred,” “Primal Hawaiian Economics,” and “Hawaiian Health and Medicine.” Those classes were held on company time, and attendance was mandatory. One class took employees into Honokōhau Valley. “We started at the beach,” says Dee Coyle, director of training. “We talked about how the ancestors made tools, stone on stone. We had a carving lesson, then we were told to make poi pounders. So there are thirty of us, tak, tak, tak, pounding away. What other hotel would pay employees to do this?” White and his team reorganized the hotel to work like an ahupua‘a, the mountain-to-sea land division that ancient Hawaiians had devised to meet all a people’s needs. Each department within the hotel created its own code of conduct based on Hawaiian values. In 1990, two staff members, Akoni Akana and Kano‘eau Delatori, asked the hotel to host a children’s hula competition—not as entertainment, but as a cultural event juried by revered kumu hula (hula teachers) from around the state. Since then, Hula O Nā Keiki has become a tradition, with young dancers traveling from as far as Japan to compete. Around that time, another staff member, Lori Sablas, shared a lesson on a little-known part of Maui history: that Lahaina had once been home
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Against the salt air, beach naupaka thrusts up clusters of slightly succulent green leaves. This robust coastal shrub is among the most accessible native Hawaiian plants; see it hedging beachfront resorts or dangling white, waxy fruits over wild cliff faces along the road to Hāna. Tucked between its leaves are tiny, white, lopsided blooms—five-petaled half-flowers. The ancient Hawaiians noted this curiosity and found the beach plant’s doppelganger in the forest: naupaka kuahiwi, a mountain shrub bearing the same strange blossom. The twin plants sparked many legends throughout the ages—most of which follow 24 Kā‘anapali Magazine
a Romeo-and-Juliet trajectory, describing star-crossed lovers doomed to eternal separation. Naupaka even served as the title and inspiration for the first Hawaiianlanguage opera. Performed in 2006, that version of the story sang of the forbidden love between a Hawaiian chief and a slave woman. In fact, Hawai‘i is home to ten—not just two—naupaka species. Nine are endemic, meaning they evolved here and exist naturally nowhere else on Earth. In addition to the coastal and mountain varieties, there are a dwarf shrub, a sprawling dune plant, and a rainforest species with a deep-throated,
STORY BY SHANNON WIANECKI
golden flower that’s reminiscent of a lobelia. Though it’s the most common, the humble beach naupaka has a few worthy gems to offer the budding botanist. Both the fruits and the flowers make lovely lei. The wee blooms, when strung together, produce an intoxicating honeyed scent. And snorkelers are fond of the plant, which serves as a free and readily available defogger. The juice from a few crushed leaves will keep masks from clouding up under water. Next time you’re at the beach, take a few moments to appreciate the lovely naupaka reaching its leafy arms up from the sand. Don’t blame us if you break into song.
Beach Naupaka: Opera by the Sea
COMPILED BY CONN BRATTAIN
26 Kā‘anapali Magazine
1, 3, 6: CONN BRATTAIN; 2: BARON & LEEDS/TUDOR; 4: LOUIS VUITTON/LB PRODUCTIONS; 5: ISTOCK.COM; 7: MARTIN & MACARTHUR
From Their Hands to Yours
A porcelain sgraffito vase by Curt Stevens, $135; a Michael Wisner clay vessel inspired by the American Southwest, $250; and Jamie Stokes’s hand-built bottle, $40 . . . these are part of an eclectic and evolving array of works by artists who live in and take their inspiration from the Islands. At Maui Hands in the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Drive., Kā‘anapali. 808-667-7997, mauihands.com
Poke. Rhymes with “Okay”
Louis’s Got Your Back
Tudor’s Heritage Chrono Blue watch updates classic style with contemporary features like three-dimensional hour markers and Super-LumiNova for optimum brightness and legibility. It‘s waterproof to 150 meters; and the self-winding chronograph movement has a 42-hour power reserve. It comes with two bands: steel and reinforced fabric. $4,425 at Baron & Leeds Fine Jewelers in Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Kā‘anapali. 808-661-6806, baronandleeds.com
Fish tartare, done island style, is a local favorite. Case in point: the ahi (yellowfin tuna) pictured opposite, prepared with ogo (seaweed), rock salt, sesame seed and oil, and green onion. Prices vary by type of fish. Catch yours at Times Supermarket, 3359 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Road, Honokōwai. 808-442-4700
The Bosphore Backpack in Monogram canvas is the ideal travel companion. It has numerous pockets, generous capacity and comfortable, adjustable straps. Price on request at Louis Vuitton in Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Kā‘anapali. 808667-6114, louisvuitton.com
The Local Scoop
For three generations, the Nobriga family of Maui has made Roselani the creamiest ice cream in the Islands. The Royal Scoop serves it up in tropical flavors you won’t find in grocery stores, along with specialty coffees, deli sandwiches and more. Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Drive, Kā‘anapali. 808-661-3611, royallahaina.com
The Islands in a Jar
Maui Preserved makes its Vanilla Powder from the whole dehydrated bean. Dust it on fruit, add it to smoothies or marinades. 1-oz. jar, $16. Maui Preserved’s Sweet & Spicy Pineapple begins with fresh Maui Gold pineapple, Maui cane syrup and Hawaiian chiles . . . and ends up a tangy snack or zesty accent for your cocktail. 16-oz. jar, $10. At Kai Ala Market in the north lobby at The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Drive, Kā‘anapali. 808-662-2676, westinkaanapali.com
Japan’s antique tansu furnishings inspired this handsome four-drawer jewelry box. Our artisans craft it here in Hawai‘i, using solid, Big Island koa and premium cast-iron hardware. 11”x7.5”11.75”; $2,290, by and at Martin & MacArthur in Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, 808-667-7422; and in The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Kā‘anapali, 808-270-0880, martinandmacarthur.com.
Winter-Spring 2014 27
left: nina Kuna
How a single crop forever changed the flavor of island culture 28 KÄ â€˜anapali Magazine
ďż˝tory by jill engledow
Winter-Spring 2014 29
Not long ago, the hills above Lahaina and Kā‘anapali were covered with green sugarcane, its long leaves dancing as if to the music of the wind, its growth cycle ordering the life of an entire community. Planting and harvest, the red dirt of ﬁelds and the rush of irrigation water, workers hoeing weeds and “cane-haul” trains heading to the mill formed the backdrop of everyday life on West Maui for more than a century. Sugar cultivation here came to an end in 1999, with the last harvest of the Pioneer Mill Company. But sugar’s impact was far greater than the acres it covered. The plantations’ need for labor brought about Hawai‘i’s unusual ethnic mix and multicultural society. The industry’s desire to sell its product tariﬀ-free to the lucrative U.S. market matched nicely with the American need for a naval base in the central Paciﬁc, resulting in a deal that strengthened sugar and gave the United States Pearl Harbor. In the late 1900s, an oligarchy dominated by sugar magnates who were worried about the state of the Hawaiian Kingdom overthrew the monarchy, leading to Hawai‘i’s annexation as a colonial territory. Today, with only one sugar plantation left (Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company, in central Maui), sugar has lost the control it once held over the Islands’ economic, political, environmental and social life. In many ways, however, from the profound to the playful, sugar lives on in local memories and lifestyles. The Hawaiians of old grew cane, one of the “canoe crops” brought by the original settlers nearly 2,000 years ago. Ancient farmers planted sugar cane, or kō, as windbreak along the edge of their water-ﬁlled taro (kalo) ponds. People chewed the ﬁbrous sections of sugarcane stalk to release thirst-quenching sweet juice. That juice made bitter medicine palatable, and a few kō varieties were considered medicinal in themselves. The commercialization of sugar began after Westerners arrived. The Islands were no longer an isolated and self-suﬃcient subsistence society,
and the people of Hawai‘i, particularly the newcomers, found themselves in need of a tradable commodity. Native sandalwood met the need until overharvesting destroyed the forests. About that time, the whaling industry discovered that Hawai‘i was a delightful place to take a break on long journeys to collect the whale oil that fueled American lamps. During the heyday of whaling, Lahaina was a boisterous port of call, with 429 ship arrivals in 1846. By the 1870s, petroleum was replacing whale oil, and whaling declined. Visiting ships dwindled to one or two a year, then stopped coming, and Lahaina’s boomtown days were over. Enterprising entrepreneurs had been looking for crops that might become commodities, and the demise of whaling made the issue more urgent. Farmers experimented with everything from cotton and silkworms to wheat, coﬀee, oranges and rice, and sent fresh vegetables to California during the 1849 Gold Rush. For long-term success, a crop had to ﬂourish in Hawai‘i, survive a long sea voyage, and sit on a dock without rotting. Sugar met those requirements, and the ﬂedgling industry received a boost when the American Civil War changed market conditions. Northern states boycotted Southern sugar producers and looked elsewhere for new sources. The Hawai‘i sugar industry took oﬀ, supplying the growing West Coast market. In 1860, a carpenter named James Campbell established a plantation in Lahaina, one of a dozen then in the Islands. Within a year, that number would almost double, and by 1878 there were forty-six. Campbell grew cane and used a mule-powered mill to turn his own and other small growers’ cane into sugar. In 1865, his plantation became known as Pioneer Mill Company. Incorporated in 1895, by 1916 Pioneer Mill was valued at $5 million (more than $1 billion in 2014 dollars). The company continued to grow, and by 1935 had 10,000 acres in production. Left to right: A worker demonstrates how opening a ﬂap on the underside of a pipe would allow water to ﬂow directly into an irrigation furrow. Immigrant women, dressed for protection from the sun, labor at hoe hana, or hoe work, to clear weeds from the caneﬁelds.
30 Kā‘anapali Magazine
TOP & LOWER RIGHT: LAHAINA RESTORATION FOUNDATION; LOWER LEFT: KĀ‘ANAPALI LAND CORPORATION
This blueprint from 1936 shows a plantation village at Kā‘anapali Landing.
top right & bottom left: ryan siphers; top left: lahaina restoration foundation; bottom right: courtesy of lori sablas
Clockwise from left: Canefields carpet the West Maui Mountains above Pioneer Mill in the 1960s. The mill is gone now, but its smokestack remains, towering over what was once the plantation office. In the 1960s, Kā‘anapali begins to take shape; it will become Hawai‘i’s first master-planned resort. A massive mill gear enjoys a second life as a landmark.
Winter-Spring 2014 31
1. Field workers pause for a photo, surrounded by flourishing sugar cane. 2. A train hauls harvested cane to the mill. 3. Chinese, like these workers photographed in 1890, were the first immigrant group recruited to Hawai‘i to grow, harvest and process cane. 4. Burning the stalks cleared the fields of excess leaves and rubbish before harvest. 5. Workers line up for payday circa 1908. The plantation office now sits across Lahainaluna Road and is home to MauiGrown Coffee. 6. Before hotel development began in the early 1960s, Kā‘anapali had a pier (left of Pu‘u Keka‘a, at bottom of photo) from which processed sugar was shipped off to refineries. At center-left, amid the canefields, is Pu‘ukoli‘i Village, a plantation camp.
32 Kā‘anapali Magazine
During these years, it was said that sugar was “king” in Hawai‘i. The government gave the needs of plantations top priority. Business owners’ desire to secure their property was one reason the Western practice of private land ownership came to Hawai‘i in the 1840s. The Mahele, or division, did away with the old Hawaiian land system, in which land belonged to the highest chief, who parceled it out to those below him. The Mahele brought an end to a system of land management that had kept the culture and the environment in balance for hundreds of years. In the 1870s, with sugar profits limited by U.S. import tariffs, King Kalākaua signed the Reciprocity Treaty, whose favorable trade terms allowed Hawai‘i’s sugar industry to flourish and brought some economic stability to the Islands. When the treaty was renewed in 1887, the United States acquired rights to use Pearl Harbor on O‘ahu as a coaling and repair station. After Kalākaua’s death in 1891, his sister Liliuokalani succeeded him and inherited his problems—economic depression and a dysfunctional legislature and cabinet. By then, U.S. tariffs had been reinstated, lowering sugar profits. Struggles between the queen and a group of business leaders who’d been talking about annexation for years led to the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893. For a few short years, the Islands were an independent republic; then the sugar oligarchy got its wish: Hawai‘i became a U.S. territory in 1898. While the planters worked to shape the Islands’ political life to their liking, they also faced more fundamental problems. Solutions to two of their greatest needs—water and labor—changed West Maui forever.
courtesy of lahaina restoration foundation
Coffee trees now green some hillsides where sugar cane once grew. Besides its Kā‘anapali Coffee Farms, Amfac successor Kā‘anapali Land Management Corporation is moving West Maui into the future with residential developments Kā‘anapali 2020 and Pu‘ukoli‘i Village Mauka—located on the former site of one of Pioneer Mill’s largest plantation camps.
Lahaina had been a verdant town watered by springs and streams that flowed from the mountains. But sugar is a thirsty crop, and planters needed that water. Pioneer Mill Company built a massive irrigation system to capture stream water, eventually drying up the sources that had inspired early explorers to call Lahaina “the Venice of the Pacific.” The search for labor created the multicultural Hawai‘i we know today. The native Hawaiian population had been in decline for decades, devastated by foreign diseases. The planters looked elsewhere for workers, importing more than 330,000 immigrants over the course of a century, mostly poor rural folk who dreamed of making big money in the Islands to take home when their contracts ended. Some did leave, but many stayed, marrying and raising families that often mingled the bloodlines of other immigrants as well as of native Hawaiians. Immigration continued well into the twentieth century. The first group contracted to work in Hawai‘i sugar fields was the Chinese, who began to arrive in 1852. Many local families claim HawaiianChinese ancestry from marriages between these pioneer immigrants and Hawaiian women. The first Japanese workers arrived in 1885, and by 1920, their descendants made up 43 percent of the population. Portuguese workers from the Azores and Madeira Islands brought their families when they came, beginning in 1887, and they also brought a small guitar that Hawai‘i musicians named the ‘ukulele (“leaping flea”). Puerto Ricans began coming here in 1900, after a pair of hurricanes devastated Puerto Rico’s sugar industry, causing a worldwide sugar shortage and incentive for Hawai‘i plantations to hire these experienced workers. Koreans first arrived in 1903, recruited when planters—forbidden by U.S. immigration laws from bringing in more Chinese—became worried about the growing size of the Japanese labor force and their tendency to strike or leave the plantation. Filipinos were another solution to the immigration-law problem, coming in 1906 from islands then under the control of the United States. By 1930, the plantations had brought about 120,000 Filipinos to Hawai‘i, mostly single men, and the influx continued after World War II. These and other ethnic groups brought with them their skills, foods and holidays. Though their languages and customs were different, most hailed from small rural communities and shared similar values that often were harmonious with the values of native Hawaiians. The pidgin English the groups developed allowed them to communicate with one another.
Over decades of working, playing sports and attending school together, and eventually intermarrying, these immigrants created a uniquely colorful community. While these workers toiled, King Sugar grew ever stronger. Business agents, known as “factors,” coordinated dealings for Hawai‘i’s far-flung and isolated plantations. Over time, the companies these agents established consolidated into a “Big Five” group of corporations that owned the plantations and dominated island life. One of the Big Five, American Factors, eventually controlled Pioneer Mill, and maintained more than forty plantation villages for its workers along the ten-mile stretch of coast from Honokōhau to Ukumehame. Called “camps,” these villages were often populated by a single ethnic group. World War II changed everything. Veterans armed with the G.I. Bill went to college and entered the professions and politics, leading the Democratic Party to overthrow the old-guard Republican establishment in the 1950s. Workers returning from military service with a new vision of life outside the plantation demanded better pay and living conditions. Labor costs rose, young people left the Islands to seek opportunity elsewhere, and business leaders began to look for another way to make a living. They found that new way in tourism, building on the Islands’ natural beauty to attract visitors from around the world. American Factors, or “Amfac,” set the standard for excellence with Kā‘anapali, Hawai‘i’s first master-planned resort, whose first hotel, the Royal Lahaina, opened in December of 1962. Hawai‘i’s sugar industry declined in the late twentieth century under the impact of high costs, expensive labor and cheap imported sugar. Pioneer Mill closed its doors in 1999, after 139 years, leaving a tall smokestack as the only remnant of its once-busy sugar mill—that, and a community that celebrates the many cultures that combined to create the Hawai‘i of today.
a SugaR HaRVeST Sweeten your visit to Maui by sampling some reminders of its sugarcane-growing past.
Chances are the spa in your Kā‘anapali hotel offers a sugar-based scrub to smooth your skin. And Kā‘anapali restaurants frequently use cane stalks as swizzle sticks or skewers, while flavoring drinks and dishes with cane juice. For a taste of plantation life, ask your restaurant server to suggest a local-style dish. Many a menu has been inspired by Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine, a sophisticated take on plantation fare that combines the culinary traditions of the Islands’ various ethnic groups with fresh local ingredients. Roy Yamaguchi is one of the twelve chefs who created Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine in 1991, and serves it at his sole Maui restaurant, Roy’s Kā‘anapali, located at the Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse. You’ll find other regional specialties on the menu at Hula Grill and Leilani’s, both in Whalers Village. Take a ride on the Sugar Cane Train, recalling the days when trains heaped with harvested cane chugged between field and mill. Learn more about West Maui history at the “Always Lahaina” museum upstairs in the Old Lahaina Courthouse at Lahaina Harbor. There you’ll see the actual Hawaiian flag that flew outside the courthouse until the Islands were annexed by the U.S. in 1898. For a glimpse of how the plantation operated, check out the displays around the old Pioneer Mill smokestack on Lahainaluna Road. Winter-Spring 2014 33
why (and to whom) they sing is changing what we know about maui’s humpback whales.
fathoming a Mystery A humpback whale calf cavorts in the waters off the West Maui coast. Photographed under the National Marine Fisheries Service Permit #10018-1.
34 Kā‘anapali Magazine
�tory by judy edwards Photography by cesere brothers
About sixteen years ago I was working for a Maui whale-watch company. Part of my job was to check passengers in as they boarded our boat in Mā‘alaea Harbor. I looked up from my manifest one day and straight into the face of Pulitzer Prize-winning humor columnist Dave Barry. I stammered, he was gracious, my boyfriend got to spend two hours as the trip’s star-struck naturalist, and Mr. Barry turned the event into a column. I read that column now and have to laugh—not because it’s still funny, which it is, but because so much of what we thought we knew about the behavior of humpback whales in Hawaiian waters—the theme of that column—has changed. The graphic gracing that Dave Barry column shows a whale crooning into a hydrophone dropped from a vessel above. He is singing à la Sinatra, obviously to attract females. It made sense to think that way—humpbacks come to Hawaiian waters to breed and give birth. Winter-Spring 2014 35
Male humpbacks must be singing to snag the hearts of females. Right? Nope.
Above: Maternal caution looks the same whether you’re protecting a 50-pound child or a 2,500-pound calf. NMFS Permit #10018-1 Below: The graceful rise of a whale’s fluke signals a long, deep dive. NMFS Permit #10018-1
36 Kā‘anapali Magazine
It seems impossible that a forty-ton whale can launch itself into insubstantial air, but humpbacks can do so with just a couple of pumps of that powerful fluke—and make it look like poetry in motion. NMFS Permit #10018-1
The males sing: methodically, single-mindedly, loudly and constantly. Why? They must be singing to snag the hearts of females. It worked for Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley and Eddie Vedder; it must work for humpback whales, too. Right? Nope. I contacted Meagan Jones, executive director of Whale Trust Maui, a nonprofit research and education organization, to find out what we know better now than we did then. I’ve known Meagan since those Dave Barry-column days. She’s exact, ebullient and brilliant, alternating between unself-conscious laughter and laser-beam focus. Meagan cofounded Whale Trust Maui in 2001 with the respected researcher Jim Darling and world-famous National Geographic photographer Flip Nicklin. “We were doing research here on Maui and I had lived here for many years. We wanted our research efforts based here. And there was this synergy with Flip and Jim. I remember our first dinner: the artist [Flip], the educator [Meagan], and the researcher [Jim]. Flip said, ‘We need to do something together.’” The crux of Whale Trust Maui’s research is the social behavior and communication patterns of whales: Why are males singing? What is the function of the song; why invest so much energy and time in it? To get that answer, Meagan, Jim and Flip (and a rotating cast of devoted volunteers) head out of Lahaina every day during whale season in a twenty-four-foot
research vessel. They will find a singer and stay with him the entire day, watching and listening to piece this puzzle together. And I call it a puzzle because one of the first revelations of this research was that singers certainly do attract other whales. Males. “I have yet to see a female approach a singer,” says Meagan. “We know that the females are listening, but that’s not what’s driving singers. They sing until another male comes; those two check each other out, then either split up or, in a minority of cases, team up and join a group with a female. You think because these are breeding grounds that it’s all about competition, but it isn’t. It’s changed the way we look at the social organization, about what’s happening here.” What the females are doing, and maybe thinking, is the focus of Meagan’s research. “We know very little about females. The majority of them associate with males, but having a calf has a significant impact on how much they travel, rest, and interact with males. We played back to females sounds produced by males in competitive groups. Females with calves wanted nothing to do with those groups.” Then there’s the question of why females with new calves tolerate the attentions of male escorts. After all, they’ve got a newborn to feed and protect in a sea full of predators. It turns out that older, larger escorts may offer some protection from younger, more aggressive males who don’t know how to behave yet. Still, this communication and sometimes cooperation between singers Winter-Spring 2014 37
“So much of what we know about humpback whales has changed.” Growing up fast! Humpback whale calves mature quickly during their months in Hawaiian waters. NMFS Permit #10018-1
and “joiners,” the whales attracted by singers, is food for thought. “I swear if you didn’t know these were males you’d think you were watching a mating dance, it’s that sensuous and graceful,” Meagan observes. “The breeding grounds are much more complex than we thought.” Running a nonprofit means you wear so many hats that your hats are wearing hats. Meagan is a researcher and an educator, among the list of checkboxes that could include PR maven, fiscal manager, grant writer and sailor. “Jim is a researcher twenty-four hours a day. My day is a little more divided,” she laughs. Each year, Whale Trust Maui conducts a public event called Whale Tales, held in February at the Maui Theatre in Lahaina, with benefit whale watches all four days. “Whale Tales is about raising awareness of what the research community is learning on Maui about these animals—and raising money for these programs,” Meagan says. The usual history of nonprofits is that they compete fiercely for what seems an ever-shrinking pool of research funding. Whale Trust Maui takes a different approach. “Whale Tales tries to be more inclusive, to support and collaborate with other research organizations. When this event started, Kapalua Land Company came to us and said, ‘We’d like you to develop this program and be the beneficiary,’ but Flip was instrumental in bringing other researchers in to benefit as well, primarily the Center for Whale Studies and Hawai‘i Whale Research Foundation. Last year we raised about $45,000.” In 2013, an estimated 1,500 people attended Whale Tales presenta38 Kā‘anapali Magazine
tions by researchers and photographers, children’s educational programs, book signings, and evening events—which culminated in a packed-tothe-rafters presentation by Flip Nicklin. Local whale-watch companies ran benefit cruises all weekend, and donated their profits. “We try to have our presenters on board for those whale watches,” Meagan notes with a grin. “They always sell out. “So much of what we know about humpback whales has changed from when I moved here twenty years ago. They seem so accessible, but we barely know anything. We’ve never seen them mate or give birth. There’s no way we can protect them if we can’t understand enough about them to manage them and ourselves successfully. The research we’re doing requires so many things to come together: whales, weather, equipment. When they do, those are the best days—when you’ve done everything you expected to do, or saw something you never did before. Every day on the water is that kind of adrenaline. It never gets old.” No living animals have captured our imaginations as have the great whales. . . . They inspire our art, literature, and music. And so they should. The indescribable blend of grace, power, and beauty of a whale as it glides underwater, leaps towards the sky, or simply lifts its flukes and slides into the sea symbolizes a vanishing poetry of the wild. —Dr. James Darling, With the Whales
Though their numbers are on the rise, humpbacks remain an endangered species. In Hawai‘i, it’s illegal to approach within 100 yards of a whale—but no law says a whale can’t approach you. NMFS Permit #10018-1
HOW TO GeT CLOSe TO a WHaLe Whale Watch cruises Aboard the Teralani January 1–March 31 Departs from Kā‘anapali Beach (fronting Leilani’s Restaurant in Whalers Village) at 7:30 a.m., 10 a.m., 12:30 p.m. and 4 p.m. Whale sightings guaranteed. Visit www.teralani.net. Aboard the Trilogy December 16–April 15 Departs from Kā‘anapali Beach (fronting Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel) at 8 a.m., 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. Trip features onboard naturalist. Visit www.sailtrilogy.com. Whale talks & exhibits Whale Tales February 14–17 Maui Theatre, 878 Front St., Lahaina Whale Trust Maui’s annual immersion into all things humpback includes presentations by researchers, award-winning filmmakers, parties, and whale-watch tours with the experts. Proceeds support whale research. For a schedule, visit www.whaletrustmaui.org. Weekend with the Experts March 14 & 15 Westin Maui Resort & Spa 2365 Kāʻanapali Pkwy., Kāʻanapali Pacific Whale Foundation shares what’s new in humpback research through photos, films, recordings, and personal accounts of studying whales in the wild. Free admission. Visit www.mauiwhalefestival.org. A Whale Tale Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 2605 Kāʻanapali Pkwy., Kāʻanapali Every Thursday at 10 a.m., the Sheraton presents a free chat with a marine naturalist from Maui Ocean Center. Check for updates at www.sheraton-maui.com.
Whalers Village Museum 2435 Kāʻanapali Pkwy., Kāʻanapali Explore the history of the Pacific whaling trade through artifacts, stories and photos. The Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary presents a free talk here every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 11 a.m. Open daily from 10 a.m.; hours vary seasonally. 808-661-5992; www.whalersmuseum.com. NOAA & the Whale Old Lahaina Courthouse 648 Wharf St., Lahaina Visit the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration’s exhibits and learn about the organization’s programs throughout the Pacific. Open 9 a.m.–5 p.m. daily; free admission. Maui Whale Festival February & March The Pacific Whale Foundation hosts presentations, tours, volunteer opportunities and more. Details at www.mauiwhalefestival.org. Highlights: Run & Walk for the Whales February 1 Mā‘alaea Harbor Shops, Mā‘alaea This fundraiser for humpback research offers a 2.5-mile walk, 5K, 10K or half-marathon. Starting times from 6:15 a.m. Register by January 30 at www.flpregister.com/69. World Whale Day Kalama Beach Park, Kīhei The Parade of Whales, at 9 a.m., kicks off a day of family fun: educational displays, live music, food, children’s activities, artisans’ fair and more. Free admission. The Great Whale Count February 22 PWF’s research team leads this tally, with training and materials provided. Volunteer at firstname.lastname@example.org. Winter-Spring 2014 39
kahekili’s Leap Each evening, as a red sun sinks into the ocean beyond Kā‘anapali Beach, conch shells herald a tradition centuries old. With flaming torch borne aloft, a cliff diver races barefoot up a jagged lava path to the top of Black Rock, a volcanic promontory that rises eighty feet above the ocean at the Sheraton Maui Resort. Behind him lies a trail of fire—tiki torches he has lighted along the way. At last, silhouetted at the summit, he recites a Hawaiian chant, offers his torch and lei to the ocean below . . . and leaps into the darkening Pacific. Divers have performed this ceremony nightly since the Sheraton opened in 1963. They honor a tradition far older, begun by Kahekili, the great chief who ruled Maui when Black Rock was known by another name: Pu‘u Keka‘a. Born around 1710, Kahekili was said to be a handsome man, stern and reserved, almost seven feet tall and close to 300 pounds. Brave and ruthless, he led a company of fierce warriors, and demanded fearlessness from his men—and from himself. Kahekili excelled at the sport of lele kawa, jumping feet-first from cliffs and landing in the sea without a splash. According to the Hawaiian scholar Samuel Kamakau, Kahekili “is known to have leaped from a height of 360, possibly 400 feet.” A number of places around the Hawaiian Islands are known as “Kahekili’s Leap.” Besides Pu‘u Keka‘a, there is one at Kahakuloa, north of Kā‘anapali on the West Maui coast, where Kahekili is said to have jumped from a height of 200 feet. And there’s one on the island of Lāna‘i that has a deadly rock platform below. But of all these, Pu‘u Keka‘a was considered the most dangerous, for it was sacred, a leinaa-ka-‘uhane, or leaping place of the soul. Ancient Hawaiians believed that when a person died, his soul left his body and wandered until it found a doorway through which it could leap into the spirit world. Thus, to jump from Pu‘u Keka‘a was to risk not only physical injury, but the possibility of leaping straight into the hereafter. When Kahekili leaped from that peak, he became godlike in the eyes of his people; only a person of great mana, or spiritual strength, could do this and survive. Seeing his bravery, his warriors trusted him and followed him into battle. They also followed the extremes to which he took tattooing. Kahekili claimed Kanehekili, the god of thunder, as his ancestor. It was said that the god had once been a man, Hekili, who lived in Pāpa‘a‘ea on Maui’s north shore, where thunder claps loudly and lightning strikes the forest. Hekili was known to have immense mana, because thunder and lightning destroyed his enemies. When the god of thunder appeared, the right side of his body was black from head to foot. To honor this powerful ancestor, Kahekili and his warriors had the right sides of their bodies completely tattooed—even the insides of their eyelids. Spiritual portals aside, those who dive from Pu‘u Keka‘a must pay close attention to timing and tide levels, or risk serious injury. Each time these skilled athletes leap, they follow in the footsteps of one of Maui’s most powerful chiefs, honoring him with their courage. 40 Kā‘anapali Magazine
�tory by ellie crowe Photograph by ryan siphers
Winter-Spring 2014 41
42 KÄ â€˜anapali Magazine
ka¯‘anapali by the Numbers In 2013, TripAdvisor named Kā‘anapali the #1 beach in the United States. That got us figuring—if a great resort is more than the sum of its parts, then any way you measure it, Kā‘anapali has what counts.
�hotography by ryan siphers, bob bangerter,
sue hudelson & cesere brothers
Number of rainbows per week you’re likely to see here in winter Source: Kevin Keepers, captain of the Kā‘anapali sunset sail for Trilogy Excursions
Winter-Spring 2014 43
Minutes—the fastest recorded time in the Lānaʻi to Kā’anapali Channel Swim
Source: www.mauichannelswim.com race results
44 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Arrivals by whaling ships in 1846, the peak of the Pacific whaling era.
Source: The Hawaiian Kingdom, Vol. 1, by Ralph S. Kuykendall
Hula movements you can learn during a lesson at Kāʻanapali Beach Hotel Source: Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel activity staff
Coffee beans in a pound of medium roast Kāʻanapali coffee
TOP RIGHT: KĀ’ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL; BOTTOM LEFT: THE WESTIN KĀ‘ANAPALI OCEAN RESORT; BOTTOM RIGHT: RYAN SIPHERS
Source: MauiGrown Coffee staff
Water slides in Kāʻanapali Resort Source: Counted by the author
Winter-Spring 2014 45
Palm trees along Kā‘anapali Resort’s beach walk
Source: Calculated by author (an avid surfer)
Mai tais consumed here daily Source: Author’s survey at all Kā‘anapali Resort bars and restaurants
Source: Counted by the author
Seconds to bodyboard a wave at Kāʻanapali Point
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TOP LEFT: SUE HUDELSON; BOTTOM RIGHT: RYAN SIPHERS; BOTTOM LEFT: CESERE BROTHERS
Source: Hyatt and Westin concierge desks
Source: NOAA NCDC and City-Data.com
Times you’ll think about wanting to leave
Letters in the name of Hawai‘i’s state fish. Including the ‘okina, or glottal stop: Humuhumunukunukuapua‘a
Flamingos at the Westin Maui Resort and the Hyatt Regency Maui combined
Sunny days a year
Winter-Spring 2014 47
body by Ka¯‘anapali Whether you’d rather work out or unwind, we’ve got you covered. �tory by lehia apana
Above: The Vichy shower at the Westin Maui’s Heavenly Spa washes tension away. Below: The Sheraton Maui’s Spa at Black Rock offers a full spectrum of island-inspired treatments, including hotstone massage and scented soaks in the indoor-outdoor Hibiscus hydrotherapy room.
Is your idea of a relaxing vacation one with lots of sunshine and nothing to do, or one with activities that invigorate you—mind, body and spirit? Either way, you’ve come to the right place: Kā‘anapali. To prove this, I set out on two vastly different adventures. The first involves heavy lifting, while the latter means not lifting a finger.
Class Action: Royal Lahaina’s Beach Boot Camp
My first stop is Passion of Movement Studio at Royal Lahaina Resort, where fitness instructor Morgan Torres offers a Beach Boot Camp along Kā‘anapali Beach. I love being active, but hate the gym, so this seems like a perfect fit. Although the term “boot camp” prompts images of drill sergeants and testosterone-fueled competition, Morgan welcomes me with a smile, and I join the rest of the group in friendly chatter. Moments later, we take a short walk to Kā‘anapali Beach and establish our makeshift gym on the sand. Boot camp-style workouts have been around for years, but few can claim a spot along what has been declared 48 Kā‘anapali Magazine
the “No. 1 Beach in America” in TripAdvisor’s 2013 Travelers’ Choice awards. The backdrop lives up to its reputation: cream-colored sand lining the expansive shoreline, salty breezes that caress your skin, and soothing rhythms of the collapsing waves. Sensing that the group is more interested in sightseeing than in sprints, Morgan instructs us to line up for a warmup run. A wide-eyed brunette with an enviably toned body, Morgan seems as much girl nextdoor as drill sergeant. I’m just hoping her inner G.I. Jane takes it easy on this boot-camp recruit. “Prepare to get sandy,” Morgan warns as we dash for a coconut tree in the distance. She’s right, and by the time we return I’m covered waist down in the powdery stuff. She ushers us back to our beach towels and wastes no time calling out our next order, a rapid-fire routine of strength moves that include arm dips, pushups and enough lunges to induce wobbly knees. “You guys love me or hate me?” Morgan jokes moments later, moving
Left to right: As waves roll in and the sun sets behind her, Passion of Movement fitness instructor Morgan Torres leads an evening Beach Boot Camp along Kā‘anapali Beach. Recruits sprint toward a coconut tree in the distance.
courtesy of the Westin Kā’anapali ocean resort villas
Massage with a view: Indulge your senses with a scenic and revitalizing treatment in an outdoor spa cabana overlooking the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas.
Winter-Spring 2014 49
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courtesy of the Westin Kā’anapali ocean resort villas
from one sweat-soaked body to the next, inspecting each person’s form. “Ugh, both!” the woman next to me groans, face to the sky and arms outstretched. And just as I’m about to slump onto the sand, Morgan orders us back to the line, this time for sprints. By now I’ve figured out the pattern: drills, run, water break, repeat. This combo of high-intensity training and short cardio intervals is meant to build muscles and burn calories longer, Morgan says. This is hard work, which is not surprising for a regimen named after a type of military training. “I always tell people, ‘Expect to sweat; expect to be pushed past your limitations,’” Morgan explains after class. Then she adds, with just a modicum of mercy: “I also encourage people to go at their own pace.” While Morgan avoids the kind of intimidation tactics reserved for real-life drill sergeants, she agrees that her students are indeed fighting a war against those pesky pounds and not-solovely love handles. The beach, she says, is the ideal training ground. “The sand forces you to work harder than you would inside a gym,” she explains, adding that the soft ground is also gentler on the joints. Unwind at your own pace at Spa Helani. After forty-five minutes, we end the workout with a cool down and collective sigh. As I ease out of a deep stretch and gaze towards either side, all I see are smiles. Passport to Polynesia: Spa Helani Maybe it’s the endorphins. Maybe it’s the sun dipping into the horizon. Still tender from my beach workout, I arrive at The Westin Kā‘anapali Or both. Ocean Resort Villas’ Spa Helani. I’ve earned this treat, and I’m here to My muscles ache, but I know I’ll bounce back stronger and fitter. While cash in. The reception area is reserved for registration, lotions and other my physical self is hurting, my energy level has skyrocketed and I start chat- retail products, but it’s still a calming oasis, complete with a lava-rock ting with the woman next to me. We trade high-fives, along with matching water feature and teak accents. The 10,000-square-foot spa also includes grins that express a shared pain and sense of accomplishment. As we take thirteen treatment rooms, changing rooms, saunas, indoor and outdoor turns pointing out which muscles hurt most—and which muscles we never relaxation areas and a nail salon. Despite its expanse, the spa’s labyrinknew existed—she turns to me and quips, “This sure gives a new meaning thine layout separates each component for a deeply private experience. to the term ‘beach body.’” I couldn’t agree more. At times I feel like the only client. After wrapping myself in a plush robe, I head for the women’s waiting Created in celebration of Spa Helani’s fifth anniversary, the Polynesian Ritual room, settle onto a lounge chair in the corner, and begin to relax even incorporates sand scrubs, body oils and warm sand pouches, or tuiponos. before my therapist comes to sweep me away. Moments later, the door swings open and Shannon beckons. Dressed in all white and with a deep smile, she is the picture of tranquility. We enter the Moana Room, whose Hawaiian name means “open sea”— appropriate, given that I’ve booked the Polynesian Ritual, which promises to take me on a virtual journey through three tropical islands: Taha‘a, Bora Bora and Raiatea. I sink face down onto the massage table, and find that the surface is not only warm, but it’s topped with a waterbed mattress that simulates the soothing undulation of the ocean. Shannon begins by exfoliating my skin, using an exotic mixture inspired by Taha‘a, “the Vanilla Island”: a fine blend of crushed coconut shell, white sand, sea salt and Tahitian vanilla that smells downright edible. She applies light pressure in figure-eight motions. Unlike treatments that rely on intense pressure or rapid movements, this gentle massage soothes away every tension, until my limbs and eyelids grow heavy. I will myself to stay awake, not wanting to miss a moment of this treat. After I take a quick rinse in the shower just steps away, Shannon offers a preview of what’s next. “Inhale deeply,” she whispers, holding a fragrant
slim down, shape up, or get pampered SPA OFFERINGS Spa Helani
The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas 6 Kai Ala Drive • (808) 662-2644 www.westinkaanapali.com/spa Try: Polynesian Ritual (80 minutes, $250)
Beauty of Aloha Salon & Spa
Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 2525 Kā‘anapali Parkway • (808) 667-1800 www.kbhmaui.com Try: Hawaiian Lomi Lomi (55 minutes, $98)
Hina Mana Salon & Spa
Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach 2481 Kā‘anapali Parkway • (808) 662-0887 www.hinamana.com Try: Hana Rainforest Wrap (50 minutes, $135)
Kā‘anapali Ali‘i Spa
Kā‘anapali Ali‘i 50 Nohea Kai Drive • (808) 667-1678 www.kaanapalialii.com/alii-spa Try: Pohaku Hot Stone Massage (50 minutes, $145) The 10,000-square-foot Spa Helani offers thirteen treatment rooms, a couple’s "treehouse suite," and private cabanas.
infusion of flower and plant extracts to the tip of my nose. “And we’re off to Bora Bora, the white-sand island.” My imagination takes over: I’m lounging alongside a pale blue lagoon, a cool trade wind whispering over my skin and sugar-colored sand between my toes. Shannon continues to spoil me, this time with several massage techniques—from long kneading movements to rhythmic spirals that have me on the verge of nodding off. A highlight of the Bora Bora experience is the tuiponos massage, which uses pouches filled with warm sand to press firmly against my back, easing my muscles deep down. Every so often, Shannon gently sways my body, creating a sensation of being rocked by the sea’s natural cadence. The last stop is at Raiatea, where I am introduced to a beauty secret coveted by generations of Polynesian women: monoi oil. Shannon coats my skin with a generous layer of the shimmering lotion, which she informs me is made with real pearls. It may be the most luxurious sensation my skin has ever experienced, and I feel as though I’m drenched in thousands of microscopic gems, which technically, I am. Best of all, I look positively sun-kissed. “Look, your skin is glowing” Shannon says, brushing her fingertips against my arm. “That’s the crushed pearls.” As I take a final inventory of my body, I decide that there are few problems that the Polynesian Ritual can’t fix. Those once-aching hamstrings and quads are not only repaired, they’re rejuvenated, and I can feel blood pulsing through my legs and down to my toes. As the day passes, I realize that an exceptional massage can awaken the senses in unexpected ways: the sun feels like a balmy embrace, the sound of swaying palms seems amplified, and I find myself savoring each morsel of my meal later that evening. Like the Beach Boot Camp before it, the Polynesian Ritual massage has delivered the reboot I needed, proving that recharging yourself can be as rigorous or laid-back as you want it to be.
The Spa at Black Rock
Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway • (808) 667-9577 www.blackrockspa.com Try: Meli Meli Queen Bee Exclusive Facial (50 minutes, $130)
WELLNESS CLASSES Boot Camp at Passion of Movement Studio
Royal Lahaina Resort 2780 Keka‘a Drive • (808) 757-2318 Monday & Wednesday, 5 p.m., by request (45 minutes, $15)
Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 2525 Kā‘anapali Parkway • (808) 667-0161 Fitness meets finesse as you learn the fundamentals of hula. Tuesday & Thursday, 10:30 a.m. (45–60 minutes; $15 for nonguests)
Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway • (808) 661-0031 Low-impact moves improve posture, balance and flexibility. Monday & Friday, 8:30 a.m. (60 minutes, $10)
The Westin Maui Resort & Spa 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway • (808) 667-2525 Daily, times vary. (55 minutes; $15/guests, $20/nonguests)
Spa Moana Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Drive • (808) 667-4725 Latin music and dance movements create a workout in disguise. Tuesday & Thursday, 9 a.m. (50 minutes, $10/guests, $15/nonguests) Winter-Spring 2014 51
A waterfall-fed pool sets the stage for another stellar performance by Chef Geno and staff.
top: hyatt regency maui; bottom: jessica pearl
Ono, monchong, ‘ōpakapaka . . . catch of the day is an impromptu orchestration of ocean bounty and delicate flavors: white-wine piccata sauce, artichokes and caper berries.
52 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Above: A peek backstage at Son’z impeccable wine selection. Right: Papery-thin potato slices impersonate fish scales, sealing in natural juices.
son’z maui at Swan Court The Hyatt’s fine-dining restaurant combines a swoon-worthy setting with mouthwatering fare.
�tory by marti rosenquist
The waterfall has me mesmerized. I can’t take my eyes off the cascade. “Isn’t it amazing, how they glide so effortlessly?” asks Moira. “It’s like when hula dancers shake their hips.” Her comment breaks the spell, and I turn to her in bewilderment. “They who?” “There,” Moira says with a nudge of her chin as a pair of white swans skim past our waterfront table. “It’s like hula,” she repeats. “All the effort happens out of sight.” I ponder the simile and suggest that we toast the sunset with what our waiter, Dave Kutz, has touted as “the best mai tai money could buy.” One sip, and we agree. Son’z has replicated the original Trader Vic’s recipe—the version that paved the way for many imposters. Not too sweet, this mai tai packs a punch rather than a wallop. Our second toast is to Dave, who attends to our every need without being intrusive, there when we need him, discreetly absent when we don’t. He must take his cue from the swans. He brings us a basket of red-pepper lavash and thinly sliced ciabatta. Since all good chefs insist that every morsel gracing the table be a treat, these crisp breads, wafer thin, have us anticipating the good fare to come. It’s the little things you remember, like the roasted sea salt accessorizing the pot of butter, adding a wealth of flavor with a simple sprinkle. One
bite, and I know that someone in the kitchen cares about my taste buds. Dave describes the evening’s preparations with a foodie’s appreciation. When we commend this seasoned pro—who hails from hellish kitchens in swank eateries on the East Coast—he humbly defers the kudos to Operations Manager Don Abernathy, a long-term Tri-Star Restaurant employee who oversees all three of the company’s Maui venues. Teamwork is the name of the game here. When Tri-Star opened Son’z in 2007, Executive Chef Geno Sarmiento collaborated with another TriStar executive, Chef George Gomez Jr., to create an eclectic menu for this West Maui outpost. Tucked into the lower level of the Hyatt Regency, adjacent to its “swan lake,” the restaurant reflects traditional flavors of both Hawai‘i and Italy. Here you’ll find calamari fritti alongside osso bucco and shrimp-stuffed eggrolls; shrimp fra diavlo and ‘ahi prepared “local boy” style. “What sets Son’z apart is the setting,” Chef Sarmiento tells us, “the waterfall, the swans, and of course the ocean breezes.” And the food is fantastic. “We’ve taken the most popular items from Sarento’s and Nick’s,” says Chef, referring to Tri-Star’s Sarento’s on the Beach, in Kīhei, and Nick’s Fishmarket, in Wailea, “then added a few distinctly different dishes to represent locally farmed products. The result is a menu everyone can enjoy.” Winter-Spring 2014 53
Above: The chopped salad’s supporting cast includes Moloka‘i shrimp, Hāna hearts of palm, Maui onion and other fresh, local ingredients. Right: Spaghetti gets star treatment with meatballs made of filet mignon.
It’s the little things you remember, like the roasted sea salt accessorizing the pot of butter. Son’z reminds us why the classics endure.
54 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Chef Geno is also a devotee of locally caught ocean fish, which comprise a handsome portion of the menu. On any given night, the catch could be ono, monchong, opah, or ‘ōpakapaka, which Chef bathes in a delicate white-wine piccata sauce surrounded by artichokes and caper berries, set atop a hash-brown mixture of grated Moloka‘i sweet and russet potatoes. The potato-scaled mahimahi is especially well prepared: the crust is a potato mash that’s been artfully formed to resemble the scales of the fish, and serves to seal in the juices. “Our menu is always evolving,” Chef Geno notes. “If my suppliers suggest a notable product that’s in season, we will work it into the lineup.” If teamwork at Tri-Star starts with management, and extends to working with local growers, it is most evident in the interplay of staff who coordinate your dinner service. You may not even notice all four people assigned to your table, since the flawless service at Son’z appears to happen automatically, the way swans glide across the water and local girls dance the hula. Son’z Maui at Swan Court • Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 200 Nohea Kai Drive • (808) 667-4506 Dinner nightly 5:30–9:30 p.m. • Bar 5–10 p.m.
Chef pays homage to the local palate by combining falling-off-thebone osso bucco, a traditionally rich Italian veal dish, with sweet Moloka‘i shrimp and risotto, effectively distinguishing the classic starter with his signature, then serving it with a sweet-and-sour chili vinaigrette and mango ketchup. “This makes a perfect alternative for people who want the big flavor of osso bucco, but not the big commitment of ordering it as their entrée,” he says. While I enjoy every last bite of the bucco, Moira raves about the chopped salad. It’s loaded with local gems: Hāna hearts of palm, Moloka‘i shrimp, avocado, Maui onion, feta cheese, grape tomatoes, and Nalo Farms watercress. “All our restaurants use local ingredients whenever possible,” says Chef, explaining that this policy assures guests of the freshest options, while supporting local farmers. As with all Tri-Star’s dining establishments, eating at Son’z reminds us why the classics endure. Although it may seem like a misuse of premium beef, the filet-mignon meatballs (served with spaghetti) are full of flavor, as tender as they are risky. That is, you may find yourself, as we have, turning up your nose at meatballs made from lesser cuts after tasting these. Dave did warn us, so we’ve no one to blame but ourselves.
HYATT REGENCY MAUI RESORT & SPA
Seafood, Steak & Pasta...
The finest cuisine and wine to tempt the palate, served with warm hospitality. Rather than just a great dinner, it’s an entire experience. Make any day a celebration at Son’z!
808.667.4506 • SonzRestaurant.com
Roy Yamaguchi was one of twelve chefs who founded Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine in the early 1990s—and the first Hawai‘i chef to win the James Beard Award. One reason? Dishes like Roy’s kiawe-grilled, Szechuan-spiced baby back pork ribs.
in the Kıtchen
A conversation with Roy Yamaguchi �tory by catherine e. toth
Renowned chef and restaurateur Roy Yamaguchi walks the culinary walk. As one of the cofounders of the annual Hawai‘i Food & Wine Festival, a premier epicurean event that promotes sustainability and celebrates Hawai‘i’s food bounty, Yamaguchi has built a reputation on farm-to-table cuisine. He has personal relationships with farmers and ranchers across the state. He makes sure local ingredients are highlighted on the menus of his thirty-one Roy’s restaurants around the world. He’s even got a 5,000-square-foot garden behind The Tavern at Princeville, his restaurant on Kaua‘i’s north shore, that’s robust with kale, arugula, carrots, papaya, eggplants and Hawaiian chili peppers, all of which the restaurant staff harvest and use in the kitchen. “I’ve always been inspired by local ingredients,” says the James Beard Award-winning 56 Kā‘anapali Magazine
chef and innovator of Hawaiian Fusion Cuisine. “We try to create dishes that are worldly, but at the same time, use local ingredients to please our guests, wherever they’re from.” That philosophy is amply illustrated at Roy’s Kā‘anapali, located in the Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse. Reading the menu is like taking a tour of Hawai‘i’s farms and ranches: cheese from Surfing Goat Dairy in Ōma‘opio, Kula strawberries and greens, tomatoes from Maui’s Hāmākua coast, Moloka‘i potatoes, and beef from Kuahiwi Ranch in Ka‘ū on the Big Island. Whatever can be sourced locally is, Yamaguchi says. “We start with Maui, then the Neighbor Islands,” he says. “Our last resort is importing from the mainland.” He believes in allowing his chefs to be creative, too, infusing their ideas and cultural
and culinary backgrounds into the menus at each restaurant. Joey Macadangdang, executive chef at Roy’s Kā‘anapali, grew up in the Philippines and moved to Lahaina in 1983. One of the dishes he created for the restaurant is Kula pork-belly adobo with braised abalone and fried oysters, a recipe that incorporates his understanding of Asian flavors and familiarity with Filipino cuisine. “I’ve used my background and the food I loved to eat when I was growing up,” Macadangdang says. “The Hawai‘i-inspired Euro-Asian cuisine [here] allows me to have no boundaries, to infuse other ethnic recipes and teach young up-and-coming chefs.” It’s been almost two years since Roy’s Restaurant moved to Kā‘anapali from Kahana, where it had been for two decades. The lease was up and Yamaguchi saw the opportunity to
courtesy of roy’s restaurant
Clockwise from left: Chef Joey Macadangdang brings Mauicentric flavors to an already island-tailored menu. The melting hot chocolate soufflé takes time to prepare; order it at the start of your meal. Onaga (red snapper) sits atop Hāmākua mushrooms in roasted-shallot soy jus. Roy’s Trio Surfboard is a classic: blackened island ahi with spicy soy mustard butter, jade pesto steamed white fish in Chinese-style sizzling soy sauce, and misoyaki butterfish with sweet ginger wasabi sauce.
take his restaurant concept south to Hawai‘i’s first planned resort area. “The reason I picked Kā‘anapali, to be honest, was I always thought it was a great place to have a restaurant,” Yamaguchi says. “You’re not only surrounded by a golf course and hotel rooms, but you are part of a global community. There are people coming here from all over the world.” With a few exceptions, the menu at this location is the same, with signature items like the roasted macadamia nut-crusted opah (moonfish), Roy’s original Hawaiian blackened ‘ahi, and the ever-popular melting dark hot chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream. But unlike the Kahana restaurant, this Roy’s is open for lunch, with menu items such as shrimpand-pork lumpia; kiawe-smoked, Szechuanspiced baby back pork ribs, a pork tonkatsu club sandwich, and a Korean garlic-chicken bento
lunch with steamed rice and kim chee. And whenever he feels inspired, Macadangdang contributes to the menu, sticking with the staples that have made Roy’s Restaurants so popular, while infusing what he and the island of Maui have to offer. “Our restaurants are inspired and created by the chefs who work in them,” Yamaguchi says. “When a chef is inspired in his daily life, he creates a certain magic and that magic translates to the dishes he creates. That’s the type of environment we try to create.” Roy’s Kāʻanapali Kāʻanapali Golf Clubhouse 2290 Kāʻanapali Pkwy. • (808) 669-6999 Lunch daily 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Dinner nightly 5:30–10 p.m. Select bar menu 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Winter-Spring 2014 57
Desserts to dream on
Hula Grill’s baked Hawai‘i could melt an Alaskan’s heart. Chocolate macadamia-nut semifreddo, à la Pūlehu, an Italian Grill
�tory by becky speere Though fields of sugar cane no longer hold sway over West Maui’s mountain slopes, Kā‘anapali’s chefs keep coming up with deliciously imaginative ways to satisfy every sweet tooth. Best of all, they do so with island-fresh ingredients such as pineapple, macadamia nuts, coconut . . . and a locally grown sweet potato whose mousse is a must. Here are five of our favorites. Enjoy!
Pūlehu, an Italian Grill at the Westin Kāʻanapali Ocean Resort Villas Refreshing? Yes. Chocolately? Yes. Crunchy, nutty, cheesecakey? Yes, yes, yes. How do Pūlehu’s Pastry Chef Carolina Villanueva and Executive Sous Chef Wes Holder cloister so many flavors and textures into a single dessert? From the semifrozen, shaved-chocolate macadamia-nut mousse, to the super-chocolatey cookie crust, to the ever-so-thin, but memorable deep-chocolate mascarpone cheesecake layer, each bite is luxurious. A mountain of fresh raspberries balances the sweet, lipstick-red raspberry sauce, taking the dessert to the next level as you happily crunch on morsels of candied and toasted macadamia nuts. 6 Kai Ala Drive • 667-3254
Hula Grill at Whalers Village This tropical answer to the baked Alaska sources local ingredients— betcha never had its Arctic cousin with pineapple inside, nor had it 58 Kā‘anapali Magazine
TOP: HULA GRILL; LEFT: BECKY SPEERE
Chocolate Macadamia-nut Semifreddo
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: HYATT REGENCY MAUI; SHERATON MAUI; WESTIN MAUI
Clockwise from top: Japengo’s ﬂaming piña colada crème, Sheraton’s Moloka‘i sweet potato mousse cake, and Relish Burger Bistro’s fanciful Whoopie Pie
served in a whimsical ceramic aloha shirt while you basked in a Maui breeze. Hula Grill begins with Tahitian vanilla ice cream made by the Big Island’s Tropical Dreams, encases it in a burnt-meringue crown, and nests it on a bed of piping hot, freshly baked pineapple upside-down cake. As you dig into the golden meringue and caramelized pineapple cake, vanilla ice cream pours meltingly into the pool of Hāna Bay Rum sauce like a lava flow. Chunks of Maui Gold pineapple—cool, refreshing and crunchy, with the sweetest and lowest acidity of any pineapple— swim in the salty, caramel-rum sauce. 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 667-6636
Flaming Piña Colada Crème
Japengo at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa There are crème brûlée lovers, and then there are crème brûlée aficionados who order this dessert wherever they travel. Mr. and Mrs. Crème Brûlée, this is the one to try. Japengo roasts Maui Gold pineapple to concentrate its natural sugars, then tucks it beneath buttery white, caramelized pineapple cake. The cake soaks in the juices of the roasted pineapple, marrying with the Hāna Bay Rum that drizzles down the sides as it is set aflame. The chapeau au crème brûlée, hinting of coconut and burned to a crunchy, sugary finish on top, is dressed with strands of fresh young coconut meat in crème anglaise and a jam of plum sakémacerated dried cherries. 200 Nohea Kai Drive • 667-4796
Moloka‘i Sweet Potato Mousse Cake
Black Rock Steak & Seafood at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa The sweetheart ingredient of this delicate cake is Moloka‘i sweet potato— dark purple to pale amethyst in color, light as a feather, and nothing like its down-home sister, sweet potato pie. A fluff of lavender-tinted mousse, with the floral essence of island-grown sweet potatoes, is topped with the thinnest, most sublime haupia (coconut) panna cotta glaze. Surprise bottom and center layers of vanilla sponge cake marry well with the pool of rich Tahitian vanilla créme anglaise and tangy-sweet raspberry coulis. It’s finished with a crunchy tuile cookie in the shape of a coconut tree, and dusted in toasted coconut. 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 921-4600
Da Whoopie Pie
Relish Burger Bistro at the Westin Maui Resort & Spa Chef Jennifer Evetushick had fun creating this incognito dessert for kids —and for grown-ups not yet ready to relinquish childhood memories. Served on a waxed-paper-covered tray, the rich chocolate cookie-cake “bun” is filled with sweet coconut cream and haupia (coconut) “cheese.” It’s big enough to serve two to four appetites, and comes with a “side” of chocolate- and nut-crunch-covered marshmallows disguised as Tater Tots. If you’re over twenty-one, pair your Whoopie Pie with an ice-cold, dark Maui Brewery Coconut Porter, with its chocolate overtones. 2365 Kāʻanapali Parkway • 667-2525 Winter-Spring 2014 59
Dining Guide B Breakfast BR Brunch L Lunch D Dinner N Dinner past 9 p.m. RR Reservations recommended $ Average entrée under $15 $$ Under $25 $$$ Under $40 $$$$ $40+
Basil Tomatoes Italian Grille, Royal Lahaina Resort, 662-3210. Overlooking the Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Course and Kā‘anapali Beach, this casually elegant, open-air restaurant specializes in the rich cuisines of Northern Italy with Italian-American influences. Daily 5–9 p.m. Italian. D. $$$ Beach Bar, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525. This oceanfront pool bar serves wine, beer and imaginative cocktails, including the award-winning Nō Ka ‘Oi mai tai. Daily 11 a.m.– 6 p.m. Happy hour 5–6 p.m. $$ Black Rock Steak & Seafood, Sheraton Maui, 808-921-4600. Classic steakhouse fare with an island twist. Decadent fresh-cut herb butter accompanies the signature 16-ounce certified Black Angus rib eye, and the nightly fresh catch is offered with the chef’s signature farm-to-table preparations. Nightly, 5:30–9 p.m. American/Hawai‘i Regional. D. $$$ Black Rock Terrace, Sheraton Maui, 808-921-4600. Cross a wooden bridge above a freshwater koi pond to savor an all-you-careto-enjoy breakfast buffet featuring made-to-order omelets, buildyour-own waffles, and breakfast wraps. Á la carte available. Daily 6:30–11 a.m. American. B. $$ Castaway Café, Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 661-9091. This casual beachfront spot serves up local coffee and eggs Benedict with a view. At dinner, the owner’s 60 Kā‘anapali Magazine
chockablock wine cellar dresses up the menu’s simple-but-satisfying fare. Daily 7:30 a.m.–9 p.m. American. B, L, D. $$ China Bowl, Fairway Shops, 661-0660. Cantonese, Mandarin and Szechwan dishes, plus local favorites like saimin and kau yuk. Dine in, take out, or have them deliver. Winner of Gecko Publishing’s Maui Choice Award for best Chinese cuisine. Monday– Saturday 10:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Kidfriendly. Chinese. L, D. $ CJ’s Deli & Diner, Fairway Shops, 667-0968. Specializing in comfort food that’s easy on the wallet, CJ’s huge billboard menu features homemade meat loaf, braised short ribs, deli sandwiches, and burgers, alongside local favorites like coconut prawns and mahimahi with lemon-caper sauce. Daily 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D. $ Cliff Dive Grill, Sheraton Maui, 661-0031. Cozy up to the bar for gourmet skewers and other grilled classics, and enjoy sunset entertainment like no other: torch lighting followed by a cliff diver’s leap from Black Rock. Food service 11 a.m.–8:15 p.m. Happy hour 3–5 p.m. L, D. $$ Colonnade Café, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525. Treat yourself to a light breakfast or refreshing snacks beside a waterfall, and watch ducks and swans glide by. Selections
DINING DIRECTORY (See map on page 18.) Aston Maui Kaanapali Villas, 45 Kai Ala Drive Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive
Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Drive Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Parkway
Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse, 2290 Kā‘anapali Parkway Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Drive
Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Drive Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway. include pastries, fruit smoothies, sandwiches, Starbucks coffee and nonalcoholic specialty drinks. Daily 5:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m. B, L. $$ Drums of the Pacific Lū‘au, Hyatt Regency Maui, 661-1234. Experience the songs and dances of Polynesia—including a fire-knife dance—along with an all-you-caneat buffet and open bar at this award-winning oceanfront lū‘au. D, RR. $$$$ Food Court, Whalers Village. Refresh and recharge at this lower-level, fast-food emporium featuring Dragon Wall Express, Nikki’s Pizza, Mr. Sub/Mr. Taco and Subway. Daily 7:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Kid-friendly. Eclectic. B, L, D. $ Häagen-Dazs Ice Cream Shop, Whalers Village, 667-5377. Indulge in irresistible ice creams and sorbets, a decadent warm brownies á la mode sundae, or a signature Dazzler frozen dessert. Daily 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Kidfriendly. $
Halona Kai, Hyatt Regency, 661-1234. Take in the ocean view and start your Maui day with Seattle’s Best and Kona-blend coffees. Nibble on a fresh-baked giant cinnamon roll, oversized muffin, or breakfast sandwich. 6–11 a.m. American. B. $ Hula Grill, Whalers Village, 667-6636. Winner of the 2013 ‘Aipono Awards for “Best Bar” and “Best Shorts & Slippers Dining.” Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy live entertainment and casual fare. The open-air dining room offers unobstructed views, and dishes like fire-grilled ‘ahi steak. Barefoot Bar: Daily 10:45 a.m.–10 p.m. Dining Room: 4:45–9:30 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N. $$$ Island Press Coffee, Fairway Shops, 667-2003. Maui-grown coffee, breakfast, sandwiches, beer and wine, ice cream and shave ice, indoor/outdoor seating, free Wi-Fi. Who could ask for more?
Monday–Friday 6 a.m.–5 p.m. Saturday & Sunday 6 a.m.–4 p.m. B, L. $ Japengo, Hyatt Regency, 6674796. Enjoy steaks, seafood and sushi with a view of the Pacific Ocean and neighboring islands. Japengo’s cuisine expertly blends local ingredients with Pacific Rim flavors. Nightly 5–10 p.m. Happy hour 5–6:30 p.m. Live entertainment nightly. Japanese/ Sushi. D, N, RR. $$$ Kai Ala Market, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 662-2676. Purchase ready-to-cook items and sundries for your condo stay at this well-stocked grocery. Choose from an appealing selection of marinated meats, fresh vegetables, salads, and more. It’s also a great place to pick up pastries, sandwiches, snacks, and beverages before you head off to explore the island. Monday– Thursday 6:30 a.m.–8 p.m. Friday–Sunday 6:30 a.m.–9 p.m. American. $ Kupanaha Magic Dinner Show, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 6670128. White-gloved staff serve a three-course meal while a magician executes close-up tricks. Then illusionist Jody Baran and wife Kathleen take the stage in a show of classic magic, Hawaiian culture, cutting-edge illusions and comedy. Tuesday–Saturday 4:30– 7:30 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. D, RR. $$$$ Leilani’s on the Beach, Whalers Village, 661-4495. Snack on calamari, sashimi, burgers or fish tacos while you take in the view of sparkling sands from the open-air Beachside Grill. Or dine indoors on citrus fire-grilled daily catch, teriyaki steak, shrimp scampi or signature prime rib grilled Texas style. Beachside Grill open 10:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m. Dining Room open 5–9:30 p.m. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, D, N, RR. $$$ Mai Tai Bar, Sheraton Maui, 661-0031. This beachside location at the foot of Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black
Rock) offers $6 Stoli vodka cocktail specials 10 a.m.–noon, sandwiches and salads 11 a.m.–3 p.m., and a classic Black Rock mai tai (light and dark rum, island fruit juices, and more than a splash of aloha). Bar service 10 a.m.–4 p.m. American. L. $$ Maui Fish & Pasta, Whalers Village, 662-0668. Acclaimed chef/restaurateur D. K. Kodama and Executive Chef Ivan Pahk have created a distinctive farmto-table menu. Try Chef Ivan’s innovative sushi rolls, then dig into pan-roasted jumbo shrimp served over homemade linguine, or herbgrilled pork chops with Hāmākua mushroom demi-glace. Daily 8 a.m.–10 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, N. $$-$$$ Maui Nui Lū‘au at Black Rock, Sheraton Maui, 877-HULA. This oceanfront, all-you-can-eat buffet features such traditional island foods as slow-roasted kalua pork unearthed and presented fresh from the imu (underground oven), cultural arts and crafts and Polynesian entertainment. Mondays, Wednesdays, and seasonal Fridays. 5:30–8:30 p.m. Kidfriendly. Pacific Rim. D, RR. $$$$ The Myths of Maui Lū‘au, Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-9119. Maui’s longest-running oceanfront lū‘au travels through time and space to reveal the stories of Hawai‘i, Tahiti and Samoa through music, song and dance. Nightly June–August; closed Saturdays September– May. Kid-friendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Ocean Pool Bar & Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3254. This breezy, poolside restaurant/bar serves breakfast and bistro-style cuisine all day long. Check out its themed dinner nights: Upcountry Barbeque on Mondays, an all-youcan-eat Crab Fest on Wednesdays, and Prime Rib Night on Thursdays. Daily 7 a.m.–9 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, RR, Open Table. $$$ Winter-Spring 2014 61
Dining Guide Pailolo Bar & Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3200. Unwind and enjoy expansive ocean and neighborisland views, plus your favorite televised sports, all in an openair setting. Burgers, tacos, sandwiches, chicken wings and salads. Daily 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Happy hour 4–6 p.m. American. L, D, N. $$ Paradise Grill, 2291 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., 662-3700. Fifteen different televisions make it easy to catch your favorite Direct TV game, including NBA, NCAA, NFL and hockey. Half-off listed breakfast items 7–8 a.m., half-off listed dinner items 4–5 p.m. Bar opens daily at 2 p.m. with pool table and $3 Bud Light drafts. Live music daily. At the entrance to Kā‘anapali Resort. 7 a.m.– 2 a.m. Kid-friendly. American. B, L, D, N. $$ Pūlehu, an Italian Grill, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3254. Chefs Wesley Holder and Francois Milliet create classic Italian cuisine with a fresh, sustainable twist. Winner of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine’s Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Italian Restaurant, it’s the perfect place to enjoy risotto-crusted monchong, braised short ribs, Moloka‘i sweetpotato gnocchi and inspiring cocktails beside a relaxing koipond garden. Thursday–Monday 5:30–9:30 p.m. Italian. D, RR, Open Table. $$$ Pu‘ukoli‘i General Store, The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 667-3200. Carryout baked goods, deli sandwiches, salads, marinated meats for grilling, ice cream, and the store’s specialty— homemade pizzas. Daily 6:30 a.m. –8:30 p.m. American. $ 62 Kā‘anapali Magazine
B Breakfast BR Brunch L Lunch D Dinner N Dinner past 9 p.m. RR Reservations recommended $ Average entrée under $15 $$ Under $25 $$$ Under $40 $$$$ $40+
Relish Burger Bistro, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525. Family-friendly, open-air dining at poolside, with TV/bar seating for sports lovers. The Bistro serves all-natural Kobe beef burgers and local flavors such as fish sandwiches, salads with island greens, and huli huli with grilled chicken breast and Maui Gold pineapple salsa. Daily 6:30 a.m.– 10 p.m. Happy hour 3–5 p.m. American/Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, N. $$-$$$ Round Table Pizza, Fairway Shops, 662-0777. Try local favorite Maui Zaui—ham, bacon, pineapple, Roma tomatoes, red and green onions, and three cheeses atop Polynesian-style red sauce. Sunday–Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Friday & Saturday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$ Roy’s Kā‘anapali, Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Clubhouse, 6696999. Chef Joey Macadangdang rocks vibrant local fish and produce, preparing them with an Asian attention to detail. Roy’s blackened ‘ahi, and macadamianut-crusted mahimahi with lobster butter sauce, are menu standouts. Save room for the award-winning chocolate soufflé. Daily 11 a.m.– 10 p.m. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, N, RR. $$$ (See story page 56.) Royal Ocean Terrace Restaurant & Lounge, Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-9119. At sunset, a traditional torch-lighting ceremony heralds the evening at this open-air restaurant that offers commanding views of the Pacific and the islands of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. Enjoy “broke da mouth” baked lobster, mac-n-cheese, or a filet with herb risotto, while a graceful hula dancer and solo musician perform
Hawaiian classics. Daily 6:30 a.m. –9 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D. $$ Royal Scoop, Royal Lahaina Resort, 661-3611. Continental breakfast items, deli sandwiches, specialty coffees, frozen yogurt, and Maui’s own Roselani Ice Cream. Daily 6 a.m.–7 p.m. B, L. $ Sangrita Grill + Cantina, The Fairway Shops, 662-6000. Chefs Paris Nabavi and Eduardo Pineda create innovative dishes like piquant, creamy pomegranate guacamole, juicy duck carnitas tacos and a refreshing mango ceviche. Open-air dining options and full-service bar. Daily 11 a.m. –10 p.m. Mexican, L, D. $$ Sea Dogs Snack Bar, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 667-2525. Hot dogs, popcorn, shave ice, nachos and sandwiches . . . pick up a snack at this oceanside spot on your way to the beach or other adventures. Daily 11 a.m.–4 p.m. L. $–$$ Son’z Maui at Swan Court, Hyatt Regency, 667-4506. Swans glide up tableside here, and the wine cellar ranks among the largest in the state. Chef Geno Sarmiento’s Yukon gold potato gnocchi Caprese and ‘ahi saltimbocca with creamy polenta are instant favorites. Nightly 5:30–9:30 p.m. Happy hour 5–7 p.m. Pacific Rim. D, N, RR. $$$$ (See story page 52.) Teppan-yaki Dan, Sheraton Maui, 808-921-4600. Watch your skillful chef prepare succulent steak, lobster, shrimp, scallops, and fresh fish to perfection right before your eyes. Tuesday–Saturday, 5:30–8:45 p.m. Japanese/Steak & Seafood. D, RR. $$$
Tiki Bar & Grill, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0236. Have your picture taken next to the largest tiki in Hawai‘i at Maui’s only outdoor tiki bar. Munch on appetizers, salad, pizza, or a sandwich at this relaxed poolside venue. Grill open daily noon–8 p.m. Bar open daily 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Happy hour 3–6 p.m. American. L, D. $ Tiki Terrace, Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 667-0124. Chef Tom Muromoto presents fresh island seafood, juicy steaks, and nightly specials. The Terrace is the perfect vantage for watching the popular nightly hula show. The Sunday brunch is legendary—and winner of Maui Nō Ka ’Oi Magazine’s 2013 Readers’ Choice ‘Aipono Award for Best Brunch. Breakfast 6:30–11 a.m. Dinner 6–9 p.m. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, D. $$ ‘Ūmalu, Hyatt Regency, 6674506. Head poolside for certified Angus beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past, and enjoy seasonal evening entertainment. Daily 10 a.m.– 11 p.m. American/Pacific Rim. L, D, N. $$ Wailele Polynesian Lū‘au, The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 661-2992. Hawaiian-style buffet, plus the songs and dances of Polynesia, with a stunning fire-knife dance finale. Tuesday–Thursday, with additional days during summer and holidays. Kidfriendly. Hawaiian. D, RR. $$$$ Yogurtland, Whalers Village, 661-9834. Create your own tasty frozen-yogurt concoction from a huge selection of flavors and toppings. Kid-friendly. $
italian perfection Satisfy your palate at the award-winning Pulehu, an Italian Grill, serving delicious traditional cuisine with a local sustainable twist. Savor specialties such as Duetto of Bruschetta, Rustic Crab Dip with Flatbread, Herb Marinated Baked Mahimahi, Grilled Veal Chop, and classic Lasagna. If you plan to dine early, ask for our three-course Tramonto Sunset Menu with delectable options at a special price. Plus, treat yourself to impeccable wine dinner events presented throughout the year. Dinner: Thursday through Monday, 5:30 to 9:30pm Wine Social: Sunday and Monday, 5:00 to 5:30pm FOR RESERVATIONS, CALL 808-667-3259 OR VISIT WESTINKAANAPALI.COM TO BOOK ONLINE.
6 Kai Ala Drive, North Ka‘anapali Beach, Maui
©2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. Pulehu, an Italian Grill - Best Italian (Gold), Best Wine List (Silver) | Maui No Ka Oi ‘Aipono Award 2013; Award of Excellence | Wine Spectator 2013
Team OluKai (in foreground) vies with paddle and sail against Captain Matt Buckman’s canoe La‘a Mau Mau during the 2012 race.
64 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Racing with the wind
Climb aboard a Hawaiian sailing canoe and travel back in time. ďż˝tory by daniel ikaika ito Photography by peter liu
Winter-Spring 2014 65
During Wa‘a Kiakahi, you can head out to sea aboard a double-hulled sailing canoe like the Ka‘ihekauila—and even try your hand at paddling.
Team Nalu Koa prepares to launch. . . .
. . . and is soon racing the wind and Team Maui Jim in the 2012 event.
66 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Before 747 Jumbo Jets, before propeller planes and steamships like the Lurline and Malolo, the canoe was the mode of transport throughout Polynesia. For thousands of years, islanders launched canoes to find food, do battle, visit family, and explore new lands. Polynesians settled the Hawaiian Islands sometime around 1190 to 1290 A.D., sailing on doublehulled voyaging canoes and navigating by the stars. This indigenous art of celestial navigation was nearly lost in Hawai‘i, until Hōkūle‘a, a modern-day replica of the traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe, rekindled interest in that ancient knowledge. Hōkūle‘a—a canoe— helped launch the Hawaiian Cultural Renaisance of the 1970s, and with it, a resurgence of Hawaiian language, hula, arts and protecting the ‘āina (land). Today, the Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Association (HSCA) is perpetuating this cultural practice through its annual season of seven races combined with community events. HSCA’s largest community outreach is Wa‘a Kiakahi, a free celebration held at Kā‘anapali Beach in conjunction with the second race of the season. (Wa‘a is “canoe” in Hawaiian; kiakahi means “with one accord or purpose.”) This is the tenth year Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association has sponsored Wa‘a Kiakahi, scheduled for June 6 through 8. The sailing canoes that HSCA races are hybrids of traditional voyaging canoes and outrigger paddling canoes. The double-hulled Hōkūle‘a is sixty-two feet long, eighteen feet wide; modern sailing canoes are singlehulled, forty-five feet long and sixteen feet wide. Former HSCA Vice President Nakoa Prejean, whose family started the association in 1987, says its vessels are six-man paddling canoes rigged with a mast, sail, and tramps (meshing) between the hull and outriggers.
middle: courtesy of nakoa prejean
From top: Canoes assemble along Kā‘anapali Beach in 2013. Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Association vicepresident Nakoa Prejean relaxes between races. Marvin Otsuji wears his Team OluKai shirt with pride.
The modern sailing canoe features an extra ama (outrigger), unlike the more prominent paddling canoe, which has only one. And while a paddling canoe relies solely on its crew’s muscle power for locomotion, a sailing canoe can shift from paddling to being propelled by the wind in its sail. In the right conditions, such a vessel can reach speeds up to twenty knots, says Marvin Otsuji, captain of Team OluKai’s sailing canoe. “We go slower at times, paddling, because we’re lugging all this gear around, but we become a lot more efficient through the channels because we can ride the wind and swells,” says Otsuji. Team OluKai has won the HSCA race series for the past sixteen years with its canoe Kamakani ‘Eleu (Energetic Wind). Otsuji got hooked on sailing canoes because of his love of speed. “You see open-ocean bumps and then you’ll shoot through the next wave and do five or six waves—close to a mile run, because you’re going so fast. You’re shooting through these waves like a jet ski; to get that feeling with a [paddling] canoe is very rare.” Wa‘a Kiakahi is the public’s opportunity to sample the kind of rush that Otsuji feels aboard the sailing canoe. On the first day, HSCA members will race from Kahului Harbor to Black Rock, on the north end of Kā‘anapali Beach, and congregate for the opening ceremony. The second day of Wa‘a Kiakahi is when HSCA offers the general public the chance to ride the sailing canoes—weather permitting. “Wa‘a Kiakahi is a great opportunity to participate in an ancient Hawaiian cultural practice and sport,” explains Prejean. “It’s rare that all of the canoe [teams] get together to educate the public about and share the canoes.”
There are only six seats on the sailing canoe, but during Wa‘a Kiakahi, a captain and crewmember can accommodate eight to ten passengers. The rides last ten to fifteen minutes and go up to a mile out to sea. To ride, you must be able to swim, and the captain’s discretion is always respected. Last year, approximately 500 people participated in Wa‘a Kiakahi, says Prejean. “I think the biggest thing I [hear] from the people we take out is that it’s something truly authentic,” he says. “A lot of the feedback we get is what a rush it is, and that it’s something you can’t otherwise do in Hawai‘i or the world.” Native Hawaiians believe that the best way to learn is by doing, and Wa‘a Kiakahi aligns with this belief. Prejean says passengers can sit on the tramps, but are encouraged to paddle so they can feel what it’s like to be part of the crew. A canoe moves through the water at its highest efficiency when the crew is paddling in unison—an example of the Hawaiian value of laulima (cooperation—many hands working together make the task easier). Knowingly or not, guests on the sailing canoe experience laulima firsthand. Winter-Spring 2014 67
Team Kamakakoa paddles to shore with the help of a few willing volunteers.
Wa‘a Kiakahi culminates on Sunday at 8 a.m. with a traditional Hawaiian blessing and the start of the HSCA’s next race from Kā‘anapali Beach to the island of Moloka‘i. This the only chance for those on Maui to observe the race in person, because the majority of the course is on the open ocean, but the races are broadcast and webcast through Ocean Paddler TV. Watching the sailing canoes race toward another island and disappear into the horizon is a sight that Polynesians have seen for millennia—a fitting finale to a culturally rich Hawaiian event.
wa‘a kiakahi Schedule Marvin Otsuji looks on as his Team OluKai pushes off into the water.
“I think being in a canoe is a fantasy for people who come to Hawai‘i,” says Shelley Kekuna, executive director of Kā‘anapali Beach Resort Association. Wa‘a Kiakahi “adds another factor of excitement, because this canoe sails. It’s a modern adaptation to an ancient form of transportation, and to learn and experience that can be life-changing.” Although the HSCA hosts other community events during its racing season, Wa‘a Kiakahi is the grandest and has the widest reach. Through KBRA’s support, it is open to the public and free. “The purpose of the Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Association is to learn, revive, educate, practice and teach the ancient Hawaiian skills and values as they relate to the Hawaiian sailing canoe and its culture,” says Terry Galpin, who is a longtime HSCA member and a segment producer for Ocean Paddler TV. She adds that opening Wa‘a Kiakahi to the public provides an opportunity not just to learn about the culture, but to participate in it. In addition to the sailing-canoe rides, the second day of Wa‘a Kiakahi presents a variety of educational and cultural opportunities on land: a “talk story” session with HSCA members, storyboards and pictures for viewing, and discussions about canoes. 68 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Friday, June 6 • 3–3:30 p.m. Opening ceremony
activities: Canoes land at Kā‘anapali Beach after racing from Kahului Harbor to Black Rock; a Hawaiian ceremony welcomes the crews. Bring: Camera and a curious mind.
Saturday, June 7 • 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Sailing canoe Rides
activities: The day starts with canoe rides (weather permitting), followed by a Talk Story session and discussions about Hawaiian voyaging. Guests will have an opportunity to engage HSCA crews while riding canoes or on land. Bring: Sunscreen, hat, clothes okay to get wet in, waterproof camera, drinking water and sense of adventure.
Sunday, June 8 • 8 a.m. Start of HSCa race from maui to moloka‘i
activities: Traditional send-off for sailing canoes with a Hawaiian blessing for a safe journey. Photo opportunities to capture the canoes with their colors flying. Bring: Camera, long lens, and reverence for Hawaiian culture. For more information, visit kaanapaliresort.com or call 661-3271.
Tee off at the Royal Kā‘anapali and you follow in the footsteps of Arnold Palmer, Jack Nicklaus and Tom Watson.
�tory by matthew thayer Winds howling off the ocean kept building right along with the tension on the final day of the 2011 Kā‘anapali Champions Skins Game. By the time the four two-man teams reached the par-3 17th hole, broken limbs were sailing down out of the trees and spectators were holding onto their hats, lest they fly away forever. The match and five skins totaling $250,000 were on the line as Jack Nicklaus studied his three opponents, each teeing off straight into the teeth of a gale. One by one, the lofted shots flared and stalled to land short and wide of the green. Nicklaus didn’t win 73 PGA Tour events and 18 major championships without learning a trick or two. Pulling a six iron from his bag, he drilled a low laser, a 136-yard beauty with absolutely no spin. The dramatic shot cut through the wind to settle 12 feet below the cup and set the table for playing partner Tom Watson, who calmly drained an equally dramatic 70 Kā‘anapali Magazine
birdie putt to give the team a final total of six skins worth $310,000 and the championship. The come-from-behind victory by those two World Golf Hall of Famers is one of many unforgettable moments in Kā‘anapali golf history. Both the LPGA Tour (from 1982 through 1985) and Senior PGA Tour (1988 through 2000) held full-field tournaments on the Royal Kā‘anapali. Some of the largest crowds walked the course and surrounded the greens as the greatest names in golf slugged it out in the intimate Champions Skins Game (2008 through 2011). The made-for-television event was a perfect blend of golf hijinks and high-stakes competition. Here are a few more memories from professional tournaments held on the Royal Course.
1983 Women’s Kemper Open
At the time, the Ladies Professional Golf Association was sorting through a bit of an identity crisis as it balanced promotional schemes with a desire to see its female athletes treated as equals to men. Younger pros like Dale Eggling, Jan Stephenson and Nancy Lopez were garnering nearly all of the media attention. There was even a racy pinup calendar featuring some of the prettiest young players. Media-savvy Stephenson gave photographers a
top left: courtesy of the maui news; top right: matthew thayer/the maui news
Opposite page: LPGA glamour girl Jan Stephenson hits a few balls during a lull in the 1982 Women’s Kemper Open—while dressed in a ti-leaf skirt; Arnold Palmer follows the flight of his drive on the Royal Kā‘anapali’s 15th tee. Above: Fans get close to the action on the 18th green during the 2008 Wendy’s Champions Skins Game. Left: Jack Nicklaus and caddie/son Steve congratulate Tom Watson after his $150,000 putt in the 2009 Wendy’s Champions Skins Game.
matthew thayer/the maui news
final round of the 1983 Women’s Kemper Open. Whitworth birdied No. 17 and reached the Royal’s par-5 18th hole in three shots to set up a 30-foot birdie putt to win. The staid pro with creased slacks and permed hair pumped her arms in the air when her ball rolled into the cup to clinch her 84th career win and tie Sam Sneed for most tournament victories in professional golf history. “I’m not 20 years old anymore, so it’s different,” Whitworth said after receiving her trophy. “But it’s never dull. I know what it’s like to stand there and watch somebody make a birdie putt on the last hole to win. I feel sorry for [Eggling], but I wouldn’t give it back to her.”
Arnold Palmer treat at Kā‘anapali in 1982 by dressing in a ti-leaf skirt and hitting balls from the 18th fairway. If memory serves, she didn’t dare hit them at the driving range for fear another pro might wrap an eight iron around her neck. One of those older, less-flashy veterans content to work harder on her game than her self-promotion was Kathy Whitworth. The tall Texan was nearing the end of a stellar career and hadn’t won for nearly a year when she found herself trailing Eggling by a stroke after 16 holes in the
There is no sport in the world that owes more of its success to one individual than golf does to Arnold Palmer. “The King,” as he is called, was the PGA’s first superstar and its first million-dollar winner in career earnings. Whenever Palmer played at Kā‘anapali, whether it was in the field of the Kā‘anapali Classic Senior PGA Tour events, or as one of the select competitors in the Champions Skins, he was always the crowd favorite. And while many athletes grow tired of the constant crush, the demands of the adoring public, Palmer went out of his way to connect with fans. Arnold always swung toward the ropes when he walked down a fairway Winter-Spring 2014 71
so he could say hello to folks and let them be close for a while. He knew a nod or polite word meant a lot to people. One year at Kā‘anapali, Palmer happened to be strolling by my father, who was a volunteer marshal. He stopped to say hello. They talked for a while and my dad related that he was also originally from Pennsylvania. When Dad asked the legend if he could take his picture, Palmer did him one better. Motioning to a passerby as he put his arm around Dad’s shoulder, he said, “Take a picture of me and Mick.”
in putt. He was visibly disappointed when he reached the green to find he had a downhill tester. Stockton two-putted from 40 feet, and then Trevino watched Archer drain a bending, 25-foot birdie putt that had to roll up and over a crest in the green. Trevino’s putt to force another playoff hole sprung left off his putter and missed badly. “I got lucky,” six-foot-five Archer said. “I made a real good putt that got up over the hump and down the hill.” Trevino didn’t have much to say about the loss. He left the course without speaking to local media.
1993 Ping Kā‘anapali Classic
One of the biggest showmen ever to play Kā‘anapali was Lee Trevino. Though the jovial golfer kicked off his Senior PGA Tour career on the Royal course after turning 50 in 1989, he did not play well there until the 1993 PING Kā‘anapali Classic. It was Halloween Sunday when Trevino birdied the last two holes to finish with a 64 and force a three-way playoff with George Archer and Dave Stockton. The birdies came after he appeared to strain his back while inexplicably helping to move heavy television cables out of the way of a playing partner’s ball in the rough near the 16th green. In the playoff, after some stretching exercises for his back, Trevino took dead aim at the flagstick with his second shot on the long par-4 18th hole and hit the stick. His ball caromed to settle 10 feet away from the cup. Hearing the crowd’s roar, Trevino assumed he had left himself a tap72 Kā‘anapali Magazine
Other Kā‘anapali highlights include: New Zealander Bob Charles winning the Kā‘anapali Classic title three times in six years (1990, 1995, 1996); local favorite Hale Irwin winning the 1997 Classic on his way to setting the Champions Tour all-time record for wins (45) and career earnings ($21 million); Betsy King out-dueling Pat Bradley and Japan’s Tatsuko Ohsako in the 1984 Women’s Kemper Open to win her first LPGA title; watching Nicklaus, Palmer and Gary Player take a ceremonial walk down the first fairway to start the 2008 Champions Skins Game. Kā‘anapali Golf Courses Reservations/Information: (808) 661-3691 Toll Free: (866) 454-GOLF (4653) www.kaanapaligolfcourses.com
left (2): matthew thayer/the maui news; right: courtesy of the maui news
Clockwise from top left: Samoan entertainer Palota Taamu introduces himself to Jack Nicklaus after a practice round at the Royal Kā‘anapali Course. Taamu stopped by after work at the Sheraton Maui, where he spent some time teaching Nicklaus’s grandkids how to play ‘ukulele. Lee Trevino jokes with playing partners during a 1989 Senior PGA Tour event at Kā‘anapali. Fuzzy Zoeller pumps up the crowd after chipping in for birdie in the 2010 Skins Game.
PGA Head Pro Sutee Nitakorn rolls a putt toward the 13th hole on the Royal Kā‘anapali Course.
pLay kā‘anapaLi Like a pro Story by Matthew Thayer
When it’s breezy, sWing easy. Playing golf in Hawai‘i often means teeing it up in windy conditions. Try to maintain your usual swing and adjust your club selection to match the shot. Kā‘anapali’s courses are designed with the trade winds in mind. Long holes are downwind, while upwind holes are generally shorter and more forgiving. The worst thing a player can do is step up to a shot facing into the teeth of a strong wind and say, “I need to hit this ball really hard.”
Understand the grain. A green’s grain is caused by the direction its grass grows. Putt against the grain, and every blade of grass fights to slow your ball down. Putt with the grain, and the blades lie flat, letting the ball pick up speed as it rolls toward the cup. At Kā‘anapali, grain generally grows toward the ocean, particularly toward the setting sun. A more precise way to determine the grain is to look straight down at the cup. There will be a semicircle “burn” mark of brownish grass growing on one side of rim. That side is the direction the grain is growing toward. Since downhill putts are generally
down-grain and uphill putts are against the grain, golfers often feel like they are playing two courses. Some putts are lightning-quick, while others die halfway to the cup. Leave approach shots beLoW the hoLe. Leave your ball below the hole and you will have an uphill, up-grain putt, allowing you to be aggressive by aiming for the back of the cup and rattling the ball home to eliminate break. On down-grain, downhill putts, you must factor in the additional speed and break, then apply a delicate touch. On side-hill putts, don’t be afraid to read wide, sweeping breaks, and be sure to factor in the speed caused by the grain as your ball loops toward the cup.
pLay it ForWard.
The PGA campaign “Play It Forward” makes golf more fun by having players move forward a tee box or two. By doing so, golfers pick an appropriate challenge to suit their game. Both of Kā‘anapali’s courses have four tee boxes on each hole.
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Winter-Spring 2014 73
This pan-Pacific lū‘au has entertained more than two million visitors since the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa opened in 1980. The lū‘au features songs and dances of Hawai‘i, Tahiti, Tonga, Rarotonga, Fiji, and the Maori of New Zealand. Learn the story of Maka‘iwa, the ancient Hawaiian name for the very spot on which the lū‘au is performed. Enjoy a fashion show and pareo-tying demonstration for men and women, works by local artisans, an on-stage hula lesson for all ages, a Tahitian dance lesson, and the show’s thrilling finale: a Samoan fire-knife dance. Info & reservations: 808-667-4727; drumsofthepacificmaui.com 74 (SAMPLE) 74 Kā‘anapali Magazine
hyAtt rEgEncy MAui
Drums of the Pacific
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Ka¯‘anapali's North Beach
top: peter liu/KBrA; left: CoLLeeN RICCI; right: rAndy Miller; BottoM: MAui Arts & culturAl center
Just beyond Pu‘u Keka‘a (Black Rock) lies a quieter expanse of Kā‘anapali Beach known colloquially simply as “North Beach.” Here the sand is just as golden, the clear waters as mesmerizing, and the view of neighboring Lāna‘i and Moloka‘i as stunning. It’s a prime spot for snorkeling, snuba, and stand-up paddling. Rent gear at the Snorkel Store in the Fairway Shops, 2580 Keka‘a Drive. Then head north a short distance and look for the blue Shoreline Access signs at Kai Ala Drive and Kai Malina Parkway. 808-333-3705; thesnorkelstore.com
Steel Guitar Festival Spanish cowboys introduced the six-string guitar to Hawai‘i in the early 1800s. Islanders soon made it their own, loosening the strings to create a style called ki hoalu (”slack key”). From April 11 through 13, the Maui Hawaiian Steel Guitar Festival will bring master musicians to Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel for free performances, workshops and kani ka pila (jam sessions), plus hula, lei making, storytelling, and a display of vintage Hawaiian steel guitars. Info and schedule: 808-283-3576; mauisteelguitarfestival.com
Located in Whalers Village, Lahaina Printsellers is the state’s largest purveyor of original and reproduced Hawaiian vintage art, sheet-music covers, movie posters, maps and engravings—some as old as the 1600s—plus giclée prints that make it easy to take home a nostalgic Hawaiian memory. 808-667-7843; printsellers.com
A Coffee Orchard Premium coffee blends with names like French Kiss, Lahaina Beach, Lava Flow, and the wildly popular Maui Mokka are produced right here on Maui’s west side by MauiGrown Coffee. After you’ve picked up your cup of liquid energy at the MauiGrown Company Coffee Store, located next to the iconic Pioneer Mill smokestack on Lahainaluna Road, grab a brochure from the rack and head four miles north to Kā‘anapali Estate, where you can take a self-guided tour through MauiGrown’s orchards, learn about the four different varieties of coffee trees growing there, and climb the stairs of a wooden coffee-viewing platform to enjoy a panoramic vista. Info: mauigrowncoffee.com
Mohala Hou Ke Kapa (Kapa Blossoms Anew) In all Polynesia, no people surpassed Hawaiians for the softness, colors and patterns of the barkcloth they called kapa. As Westerners introduced other fabrics to the Islands, that ancient knowledge all but disappeared. Contemporary Hawaiians are painstakingly rediscovering the art—which you can explore in Mohala Hou Ke Kapa, a groundbreaking exhibit at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center’s Schaefer International Gallery, January 21 through March 9, 2014. For details, and more on kapa, visit mauimagazine.net/kapa. Winter-Spring 2014 75
History buffs will want to check out this new exhibit on the second floor of the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Opened in August of 2013, the museum houses artifacts from Hawai‘i’s rich and eclectic past: pre-Contact, the monarchy, whaling, the missionary era, plantation days, and the birth of tourism. You’ll also find the actual flag that flew above the courthouse during the Hawaiian Monarchy. Assistant Postmaster Arthur Waal was ordered to lower the flag and raise the Stars and Stripes in 1898, when the United States annexed the Islands. The Lahaina Heritage Museum is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and admission is free. (To learn about some of the forces that led to annexation, see “King Sugar” on page 28.) 76 (SAMPLE) 76 Kā‘anapali Magazine
J. AnTHOnY MArTInez
Lahaina Heritage Museum
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Scrimshaw Exhibit at Whalers Village Museum
top: whalers museum; left: body temple Gourmet Culinary institute; riGht: the westin KĀ’anapali oCean resort Villas; bottom: peter liu/Kbra
In the 1800s, Lahaina was the center of the Pacific whaling trade. Embarking upon voyages lasting up to five years, sailors filled the long, empty hours at sea by creating scrimshaw—the seafarer’s lonesome art. With razor-sharp knives, they engraved images into spermwhale bones and teeth, then rubbed them with ink to bring out the design. You’ll find an extensive collection of scrimshaw at Whalers Village Museum, as well as other artifacts from this colorful period in Maui’s history. Info: 808-661-5992; whalersmuseum.com
Raw Food 101
Did you know you can make chocolate milk from almonds? Nondairy, no-bake cheesecake? Pesto pasta with zucchini noodles? Learn to prepare these and other delectable raw meals at ‘Umalu Market in the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort. Chefs Ava Stefurak and Brook Le‘amohala of Body Temple Gourmet Culinary Institute lead this monthly class, which includes detailed demonstrations, samples of a variety of dishes, and recipes to try at home. Info & reservations: 808-667-4727
Tour of the Stars
Imagine you and your sweetie sipping champagne, nibbling chocolate-covered strawberries, and exploring Maui’s night sky. Fridays and Saturdays, join astronomer Ed Mahoney on the roof of the Hyatt Regency, where he’ll help you interpret the stars. Seating is limited. Info & reservations: 808-667-4727
Volunteer in Honokōwai Valley
Get your hands dirty for a good cause while learning how ancient Hawaiians lived. Every Saturday, Maui Cultural Lands leads volunteers into Honokōwai to help reforest the valley where an estimated 600 Hawaiian families once thrived, and where rock walls surrounding ancient house sites and taro patches still exist. Meet the Maui Cultural Lands team at 8:45 a.m. at the Pu‘ukoli‘i Sugar Cane Train parking lot. Return time is around 2 p.m. Info: 808-276-5593. The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas arranges private volunteer opportunities in Honokōwai Valley for its guests. Visit the concierge desk for information.
Kā‘anapali Historical Trail
Discover Kā‘anapali’s rich and storied past. This self-guided tour begins at the north end of the resort, at the ancient village of Keka‘a, and ends at the Hyatt Regency Maui. Along the way, you’ll encounter ten sites marked by lava-rock monuments with plaques explaining their significance. The tour takes about two hours; do the excursion all at once, or over several days. Pick up a tour map at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel or the Westin Kā’anapali Ocean Resort Villas, or download one at kaanapaliresort.com. Info: 808-661-3271 Winter-Spring 2014 77
Recommended by National Geographic, Blue Hawaiian was one of the first U.S. companies to offer tours aboard ECOStars—50 percent quieter than conventional helicopters, with Bose sound, bucket seats and optimum visibility. The pilots who fly them are just as impressive. Each is a certified State of Hawai‘i guide, so a tour aboard Blue Hawaiian is equal parts scenic adventure and an immersion into island history, culture, ecology and legend. Flights depart from Kahului Airport; one of our favorites takes you through the West Maui Mountains and around the windward side of Moloka‘i, along the tallest sea cliffs in the world. Info: 808871-8844, toll free 800-745-2583, or bluehawaiian.com 78 (SAMPLE) 78 Kā‘anapali Magazine
bLuE hAwAiiAn hELicoPtEr tourS
Blue Hawaiian Helicopter Tours
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Skyline Eco-Adventures Zipline
top: Skyline eco-AdventureS; right: uFo; leFt: kā‘AnApAli beAch hotel; bottom: kAAnApAli Alii
From 1,800 feet above the Kā‘anapali coastline, the world below looks a little smaller. The ocean is flecked with slowly shifting whitecaps, and panoramic views stretch from Lahaina to Moloka‘i. There is a sense of calm from this exclusive perch, which suddenly changes to a pulse-racing thrill as you soar across the mountainside. On Skyline Eco-Adventures’ eight-line course, you’ll learn about West Maui’s native plants and the history behind its valleys. And just when the view has brought a moment of scenic tranquility, you strap on a harness, step off the ledge, and go yahooing above the valley floor as it whizzes beneath your dangling feet. Info: 808-662-1500 or zipline.com
at Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel Food, fashion, shopping and a show— Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel celebrates Mother’s Day with true island warmth. This is the champagne brunch buffet voted best on Maui by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi magazine, and it’s held at Kā‘anapali’s most Hawaiian hotel. (How Hawaiian? See “Employing Po‘okela,” page 22.) In the lobby, island artisans showcase their crafts. Outside, near al fresco seating, hula dancers double as runway models in locally designed apparel. Celebrate Mom, Hawaiian style. Reservations: 808-667-0124 or HawaiianSundayBrunch.com
Canoe Paddling with Maui Ocean Sports
Every June, Kā‘anapali Beach Resort hosts a day of free rides aboard Hawaiian sailing canoes, part of a weekend celebration called Wa‘a Kiakahi. (See story on page 64.) But any day of the year, you can climb aboard an outrigger canoe with Maui Paddle Sports. Grab a paddle and prepare for a workout that’s as educational as it is entertaining. You’ll learn how ancient Polynesians used canoes for fishing, recreation, and transport between islands; and you can snorkel the waters of Kā‘anapali in search of green sea turtles. Two-hour excursions depart from the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas. Info: 808-283-9344 or mauipaddlesports.com
Extreme Tubing with UFO Parasail
Looking for ocean adrenaline? Hold on tight! Clench the handle of your inflatable tube as UFO’s thirty-one-foot parasail boat races down the coast. Children five and older can sit on the tube to be towed behind the vessel, or join the kids for a tandem ride, bouncing through the boat’s wake. Tubing is available May 16 through December 14. Info: 800-359-4836 or ufoparasail.net
Kā‘anapali Ali‘i Grill Master Service One perk of staying at Kaanapali Alii is having a resident grill master. The condo provides oceanfront grills for guests who enjoy homecooked meals—even when they’re away from home—and who know that dinner tastes better when paired with a Maui sunset. From 5 to 8 p.m., the grill master is happy to share cooking tips, recipes, even herbs grown in a garden close to the grills. 808-667-1400 or kaanapalialii.com
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Calendar Kā‘anapali EvEnts February 8 & June 7
Grown on Maui Farmers Market,
oceanfront lawn at Whalers village Shop a vibrant selection of pineapples, onions, sugar cane, coffee and more, while mingling with local farmers and food producers who deliver fresh, local fare from the fertile fields of Kā‘anapali, Kula and Hāna. Hours: 7:30 to 11:30 a.m. Free admission and parking. For more information, call 808-661-3271 or visit www.kaanapaliresort.com.
February 3 Craft Fair, Kāʻanapali Beach fronting the Westin Maui Resort & spa Bring home a Maui memory with handcrafted creations by local artists. Mondays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. February 8 & 22 sushi school, Japengo, Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & spa Ready, set, roll! Put your fine-motor skills to work at a sushi class held in the Hyatt’s award-winning Pacific Rim restaurant and sushi lounge. Thankfully, the only exam is a taste test at the end. Complimentary nonalcoholic beverages included. Classes are held from 3 to 4:30 p.m. the second and fourth Saturdays of each month. $50 per person; reservations required: 808-667-4727. April 5 Fantasia Ball, Hyatt Regency Maui
Resort & spa Hosted by Imua Family Services, this popular black-and-white-themed gala helps fund therapeutic services for children with disabilities. The gala includes a cocktail reception, fashion experience, live and silent auctions, and entertainment, beginning at 6 p.m. Not ready to stop dancing? Join Fantasia after Dark, with beats by DJ Del Sol, until 10 p.m. For tickets and details, call 808-244-7467 or visit www.imuafamilyservices.org.
Maui Hawaiian steel Guitar Festival, Kāʻanapali Beach Hotel Hawai‘i calls —over the strings of the Hawaiian steel guitar. This free event brings together master players and aficionados from around the world, and features performances, presentations, workshops and jam sessions focused on the instrument and its importance in the Hawaiian music genre. Cultural activities such as hula, lei making, 80 Kā‘anapali Magazine
WHERE IT’S AT Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & spa 200 Nohea Kai Drive • 808-661-1234 concierge 808-667-4727 www.maui.hyatt.com Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel 2525 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-661-0011 toll free 800-262-8450 • www.kbhmaui.com sheraton Maui Resort & spa 2605 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-661-0031 www.kbhmaui.com the Westin Maui Resort & spa 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-667-2525 www.westinmaui.com Whalers village 2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway • 808-661-4567 www.whalersvillage.com
‘ukulele and storytelling take place throughout the weekend. For a schedule, call 808-283-3576 or visit www.mauisteelguitarfestival.com.
May 3 Maui Onion Festival, Whalers village
Maui’s famously sweet bulb takes center stage, with demonstrations by celebrity chefs, food samples, onion-recipe contests, onion-eating contests (gulp!), food and product booths and live entertainment. The festival runs 9:45 a.m. to 7 p.m. Free admission and parking. Special shopping promotions start April 28 at the more than 90 shops and restaurants at Whalers Village. For details, call 808-661-4567 or visit www.whalersvillage.com/2014-onion-schedule.
June 6–8 Waʻa Kiakahi, Kāʻanapali Beach The ancient Hawaiian art of outrigger-canoe sailing comes to life during this free event that
coincides with the second race of the Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Association season. Festivities include sailing-canoe rides, talks with HSCA crewmembers, and Hawaiian welcoming and closing ceremonies. See story on page 64.
July 4 Flowerworks, the Westin Maui Resort & spa Leave it to the Westin Maui to create this uniquely Hawaiian-style Independence Day celebration: an explosion of color that happens at noon when Blue Hawaiian Helicopters looses a “flower shower” into the skies above the hotel. Among those thousands of dropping orchids will be five roses; find one and redeem it at the Westin Maui’s concierge desk for a prize. No rose? No worries—collect as many fallen flowers as you can and head to the Westin Maui’s Colonnade Café between 12:30 and 1:30 p.m. to create a lei. For details, visit www.westinmaui.com. July 12 Maui Craft session, ocean lawn at sheraton Maui Resort & spa This is not your Aunt Hazel’s knitting circle. The Sheraton Maui has partnered with Maui Brewing Company, Southern Wine & Spirits, and General Cigar to present a celebration of craft beers, whiskeys and cigars, plus specialty food pairings and entertainment by DJ Scotty D, with legendary Black Rock as backdrop. Event runs 6 to 10 p.m. and is for those 21 and older. For tickets and details, visit www.sheraton-maui.com. August 29–30 Kā‘anapali Fresh, Kā‘anapali
Beach Resort Savor the many tastes of Maui at this resortwide celebration of fresh and local fare. On Friday, August 29, a traditional canoe arrival kicks off an ‘aha‘aina (feast) showcasing the evolution of Hawai‘i cuisine from ancient to modern times. Enjoy live entertainment, a farmers’ market, a farm tour, mixology and more. Find the schedule, tickets and more information at www.kaanapalifresh.com.
Kā‘anapali beacH resort association
Maui’s most anticipated winter visitor, the humpback whale is making a splash in and out of the water. See page 39 for a list of whale-watch cruises, exhibits, talks and festivities.
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Calendar MAUI EvEnts February 7
Chinese new Year Celebration, Wo Hing temple Museum, 858 Front street, Lahaina A lion dance
and blessing usher in the Year of the Horse at Wo Hing Museum at 5 p.m. As the lion proceeds down Front Street to Banyan Tree Park, you can “feed” it for luck. At the museum, enjoy firecrackers, martialarts demonstrations, children’s activities, a historical display and ethnic foods. The museum will be open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. with free admission. For details, call 808-661-3262 or visit www.lahainaresortation.org.
February 1–23 Maui Open studios Maui’s
creative community opens its doors to the public during this annual art showcase that takes place over four consecutive weekends. Visit the artists in their element and learn about their methods, beginning with an opening celebration and preview exhibition at Maui Tropical Plantation on February 1. The next three weekends divide the island geographically, with open studios in Upcountry Maui on February 8 and 9; Central and North Maui and Hāna on February 15 and 16; and West and South Maui on February 22 and 23. An artists’ directory is available at www. mauiopenstudios.com.
Fine Art Fair, Banyan tree Park, 648 Wharf street, Lahaina Browse paintings, ceramics, photography, jewelry and more, beneath the sprawling limbs of Lahaina’s historic banyan tree, next to the Old Lahaina Courthouse. The fair runs from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Other dates: March 15, 16, 30; April 12, 13, 18; May 10, 11, 25, 26; June 15, 21, 22; July 4, 5, 26, 27. For more information, visit www.lahainaarts.com. 82 Kā‘anapali Magazine
February 15–23 Maui Plein Air Painting Invitational Come watch two-dozen renowned plein-air painters from Hawai‘i and the mainland as they spend the week capturing Maui on canvas. The week’s events include competitions, a talk on plein-air painting, an artists’ reception and more. For details, visit www.mauipleinair painting.org. February 27 Hawaiian Music series, Baldwin Home Museum, 120 Dickenson street, Lahaina The traditional and modern melodies of Hawai‘i come to life during this free outdoor concert, held on the lawn on the final Thursday of each month, performed by a rotating lineup of musicians. Chair seating is limited; low beach chairs, mats and blankets are encouraged. Concerts run from 6 to 7:30 p.m. For details, call 661-3262 or visit www.lahaina restoration.org. March 7
David sedaris, Castle theater, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, One Cameron Way, Kahului Celebrated NPR humorist David Sedaris returns to Maui for an evening of wit, social satire and riveting conversation. Show starts at 8 p.m.; a Q&A with Sedaris follows. For tickets and information, call 808-242-7469 or visit www.mauiarts.org.
st. Patrick’s Day 5K, Kahului Ale House, Maui Mall, 355 E. Kamehameha Avenue, Kahului Step away from the Guinness (don’t worry, it’s just for a wee bit) and lace up your running shoes for this spirited three-mile run. Starts at 5 p.m., followed by post-race entertainment. For details, visit www.virr.com.
Portuguese Festa, Kepaniwai Heritage Park, ‘Īao valley, Wailuku The Maui Portuguese Cultural Club’s fundraiser begins at 10 a.m. with a ceremony honoring Our Lady of Fatima, followed by dances brought to Hawai‘i by immigrants in the late 1800s, traditional costumes, a country store with Portuguese stone-oven bread, hand-made embroidered items and more. Enjoy Portuguese soup, and purchase a cookbook of recipes handed down by club members through generations. Free admission. For information, call 808-385-2410 or visit www.mauiportugueseculturalclub.com.
Kahakuloa Coast Half-Marathon & Relay, D.t. Fleming Beach to Kahakuloa: Dash along thirteen miles of sea cliffs on your own or with a partner for the relay division. Race starts at 6:30 a.m., with breakfast served in Kahakuloa from 8 to 10 a.m. Grammy Award-winning slack-key guitarist and Kahakuloa resident Richard Ho‘opi‘i entertains from 9 to 10 a.m. Proceeds will help efforts to restore the historic Kahakuloa Hawaiian Congregational Church, built in the 1870s. For details, visit www.virr.com.
June 22 Hawaiian slack Key Guitar Festival, A&B Amphitheater, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, One Cameron Way, Kahului This free outdoor concert features an all-star lineup of Hawai‘i’s finest slack-key guitarists. Concert runs from 1 to 7 p.m. Bring a low-backed beach chair or mat. For details, visit www.mauiarts.org. Events are subject to change. Please call to confirm before heading out.
LAHAINA RESTORATION FOUNDATION
Now through March 9 Mohala Hou Ke Kapa (Kapa Blossoms Anew), schaefer International Gallery, Maui Arts & Cultural Center The ancient Hawaiians created the finest kapa (barkcloth) in the Pacific, dying it vibrant colors and stamping it with intricate patterns. This exhibit features works by some two-dozen contemporary kapa makers from around the Islands, as well as historic pieces from Wailuku’s Bailey House Museum. Learn about the history, tools and methods behind this ancient Hawaiian art form. See listing on page 75.
PhotograPhs: tony novak-Clifford
Whalers Village, 2435 Ka ¯‘anapali Parkway, Lahaina, HI 96761 (808) 344-6672 | www.MaggieCoulombe.com
Published on Dec 1, 2014
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