Ngaali Inflight Magazine Vol 4 2021 by masta.uganda

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MARCH - MAY 2021

THE NAKAYIMA

WITCH TREE: LEGENDS AND TALES OF THE

DUBAI’S EXCITING DESERT SAFARIS

CHWEZI

UGANDA CRANES

LOOKING TO MAKE UGANDA’S PARTICIPATION IN AFCON A HABIT

KILWA KISIWANI

THE GREATEST TREASURE OF SWAHILI MARITIME HISTORY

NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR • KINSHASA

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Dare to explore exhilirating new heights in the Rwenzori Mountains. Rare vegetations, countless bird species, magnificent waterfalls, clear blue lakes, breathtaking glaciers and snowcapped peaks await!

CONTENTS MARCH - MAY 2021

12 CEO’S NOTE

SPORTS 20 UGANDA CRANES Chasing The Third Straight AFCON Qualification

REGULARS 16 BUSINESS TRAVELLER Cross-Border Transfer Of Data In Uganda & Schrems II 64 ANIMAL KINGDOM The African Wild Dog 66 CELEBRITY PROFILE Chimamanda Adichie 68 CUISINE Kenya’s Must-Try Staples 76 ROOM WITH A VIEW 82 TRENDS The Colour Purple 86 NG’AALI KIDS 92 ROUTES 95 BOOKSHELF

82 6

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DESTINATIONS 30 UGANDA 34 DUBAI 38 MOMBASA

40 JUBA 42 TANZANIA 46 SOUTH AFRICA 52 LONDON 56 GUANGZHOU 58 MUMBAI 60 ZIMBABWE

FEATURES 24 SEMLIKI SAFARI LODGE Uganda’s Oldest Upmarket

Tented Camp 70 CULTURE: BEAUTIFUL BODY ART The Indian

Mehndi Tradition 72 ZAMBIA’S WILDLIFE CONSERVATION HERO 74 ART: THE LAAS GEEL OF SOMALIA 80 FASHION: FINDING BEAUTY OUT OF CONFUSION

GUIDES AND TIPS 83 TRAVEL PACKING TIPS 84 SAFARI PACKING LIST 85 TRAVEL HEALTH AND WEATHER CALENDAR 94 TRAVELLER REVIEW 96 TRAVEL GUIDE 98 TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS

YOUR FREE COPY

MARCH - MAY 2021

THE NAKAYIMA

WITCH TREE: LEGENDS AND TALES OF THE

CHWEZI

DUBAI’S EXCITING DESERT SAFARIS

UGANDA CRANES

LOOKING TO MAKE UGANDA’S PARTICIPATION IN AFCON A HABIT

KILWA KISIWANI

THE GREATEST TREASURE OF SWAHILI MARITIME HISTORY

NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR • KINSHASA

On The Cover: Go Play In The Sand! (Pg 34)

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70 Ng'aali, the name of our inflight magazine, is derived from the local Luganda name of the Crested Crane, which is the national bird of the African nation of Uganda. It appears on the flag and Coat of Arms and can be found near the country’s many lakes and rivers. Crested Cranes stand over 3 feet tall, with a wingspan of up to 6.5 feet. They live up to 22 years, but hatch in 30 days and reach maturity in 3 years. These majestic birds practise monogamy - they remain with the same breeding partner for life. Literature has it that if one is widowed, they stay single until they die. They are omnivores, so like humans, they eat both meat and plants.

CONTRIBUTORS KALUNGI KABUYE Kabuye is an award winning writer and photographer, and has been a journalist for more than 20 years. He has been editor of several magazines and newspapers in Uganda.

CHARLOTTE BEAUVOISIN Conservation volunteer and marketing trainer Charlotte Nagawa Beauvoisin has been writing the award-winning travel blog Diary of a Muzungu since 2008. She has written for the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, Fodor’s and Lonely Planet.

MARK NAMANYA This acclaimed sports journalist has won multiple awards in his field. A former President of Uganda Sports Press Association (USPA), Namanya's command of the sports language is unrivalled.

KENNETH MUHANGI Muhangi is a Lecturer of IP and ICT Law, Partner at KTA Advocates, award-winning author and trainer in IP and ICT. He also advises the Ministry of ICT on innovation and ICT policy development, and is a consultant with the World Bank.

SOLOMON OLENY Oleny is a creative, self driven professional travel journalist. He has worked with CNN to profile tourism in Uganda, and is a recipient of nine Tourism Excellence Awards since the start of his journalism career in 2008.

SARAH MARSHALL Inspired by nature and wild places, Marshall is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in the UK. She regularly visits Africa as part of her work for the Tusk Trust Conservation Awards.

HASSAN SSENTONGO Ssentongo is a writer and editor. He lives in Kampala, and currently serves as Creative Director at Satisfashion UG, an online platform that celebrates fashion. He is passionate about fashion and food.

MARK EVELEIGH Eveleigh, a frequent visitor to Uganda, has contributed 750+ full-length features to 100+ international publications, including BBC Wildlife, BBC Earth, Geographical, National Geographic Traveller and The Independent.

Publisher Dora Barungi Administrator Doreen Kabatesi DESIGN Designer Esther Nabaasa EDITORIAL Editorial Consultant Adele Cutler Copy Editor Pamela Nyamato Web Editor Solomon Oleny

Writers Adele Cutler, Kenneth Muhangi, Mark Eveleigh, Kalungi Kabuye, Sarah Marshall, Solomon Oleny, Mark Namanya, Hassan Ssentongo, Sasha Martin, Charlotte Beauvoisin PHOTOGRAPHY Peter Hogel ADVERTISING AND SALES Sales & Marketing Director Richard Senkwale

Sales Executives Atukwase Clare Murekyezi, Irene Kaitesi, Diana B. Tayebwa, Aggie Ninsiima, Peter Kusiima Social Media Management Premier Advertising & Media Website Management EBC - Epic Business Consult PUBLISHED BY:

The views expressed in Ng'aali are not necessarily those of the editor, staff or publishers. Ng'aali is the registered trademark name of the Uganda Airlines inflight magazine.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

CEO’s NOTE UR ESTEEMED PASSENGERS,

Welcome aboard Uganda Airlines! Finally, we made it into 2021, after what seemed like a long year with the lockdowns and travel disruptions of 2020 resulting from Covid19. The impact of the coronavirus on our industry means that air travel will never be the same again. Airlines, governments, health authorities and airports continue to seek to harmonise procedures to cope with this health crisis, which is still with us in the new year. At Uganda Airlines, we have implemented the new Standard Operating Procedures which include (i) Covid19 PCR tests before travel (ii) temperature checks at airports and boarding gates (iii) the wearing of face masks (iii) social distancing within airport premises (iv) extensive sanitisation at airports and aboard the aircraft. These, together with the protective equipment worn by our crew, have enabled us to offer you safe flights to your destinations across the region. We are pleased to confirm that our industry as a whole has adopted these new operating procedures and this has allowed more countries to continue to open their air travel markets accordingly. We have started 2021 on a high note with the arrival of our second Airbus

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A330-800neo aircraft, which marked the completion of our core fleet of six aircraft as per the airline launch plan. The two A330-800neo aircraft are undergoing certification with our Civil Aviation Authority, after which they will be deployed on long-haul international routes. We are especially delighted to be the first airline in Africa to fly this type of aircraft with its enhanced operating efficiencies and comfortable product on board. Passengers can therefore look forward to enjoying yet another first in high standard service offering on the planned long-haul flights, which adds to our achievements on the regional network. Our Pearl of Africa Service, which brings to our customers an enjoyable, friendly and courteous customer experience across all our touch points, will soon be felt on intercontinental flights to Europe (London), Asia (Guangzhou) and the Middle East (Dubai, Mumbai). We plan to open these routes in May 2021. Our schedules are designed to offer you convenience and flexibility across our growing network. We have simplified our ticketing and refund procedures to allow for the flexibility of passengers replanning journeys at short notice. We currently fly to Bujumbura, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, Juba, Kilimanjaro, Kinshasa, Mogadishu, Mombasa, and Nairobi.

CORNWELL MULEYA CEO: Uganda Airlines

We will continue to add more cities to our network including Addis Ababa, Johannesburg, Lusaka, Harare, Goma, Lubumbashi, Khartoum, Kigali, and many others in the near future. Our systems are being upgraded to allow for global connectivity and the implementation of a framework of alliances, interlines and codeshare with partners across the industry. Our shareholders continue to stand with us and to support and invest in the business especially now with Covid19. Uganda Airlines is well positioned for the future and I wish to thank you for making us your airline of choice on this journey. We look forward to being of service to you again soon. Meanwhile, please sit back, relax and enjoy your flight with us.

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TRUSTED BY MILLIONS OF UGANDANS

With a vast selection of Roofing Iron sheets, Roofings Drainage & Plumbing Solutions, Wire products and HRC products, WithRoofings a vast selection of to Roofing Ironhighquality, sheets, Roofings Drainage & Plumbing Solutions, Wire of products HRC products, continues innovate long-lasting products that honor the trust millionsand of Ugandans. Roofings continues to innovate highquality, long-lasting products that honor the trust of millions of Ugandans.

TRUSTED TRUSTED BY BY MILLIONS MILLIONS OF UGANDANS OF UGANDANS

TRUSTED BY MILLIONS TRUSTED BY MILLIONS OF UGANDANS OF UGANDANS TRUSTED BY MILLIONS OF UGANDANS

With a vast selection RoofingIron Ironsheets, sheets,Roofings Roofings Drainage Drainage &&Plumbing products andand HRCHRC products, With a vast selection ofofRoofing PlumbingSolutions, Solutions,Wire Wire products products, Roofings continues innovatehighquality, highquality, long-lasting long-lasting products of of millions of Ugandans. Roofings continues totoinnovate productsthat thathonor honorthe thetrust trust millions of Ugandans.

BUSINESS TRAVELLER

CROSS-BORDER TRANSFER OF DATA IN UGANDA & SCHREMS II Words by Kenneth Muhangi

n the Fourth Industrial Revolution (4IR), it would be wholly impractical for any organisation, irrespective of sector, to do business, let alone crossborder business, without the ability to transfer data. In Uganda, transfer of data across borders is in most instances a necessity owed to the relatively limited infrastructure required to store or process data. Such transfer is regulated by Section 19 of Uganda’s Data Protection & Privacy Act (DPPA), which provides that where a data processor based in Uganda processes or stores personal data outside Uganda, the processing shall only be lawful with consent of the data subject and further, that the processor shall ensure that the receiving country has an equivalent level of protection to that in Uganda. Section 19 is analogous to Article 46 of the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) that offers wider considerations when dealing with cross-border transfer of data. The GDPR has congealed the importance of observance of best

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practice when dealing with cross-border transfer of data. Article 3 in particular, extends the scope of the GDPR to cover data processed outside the EU, as long as the data relates to a data subject who is a citizen of any of the EU countries. Article 46 provides that any transfer of personal data to a third country can only take place if certain conditions are met by the data exporter and the data importer. For an entity to lawfully transfer or process personal data outside of the EU, that entity must identify a valid transfer mechanism to legally transfer that personal data. Consequently, entities domiciled or operating in Europe and which carry out business whether directly or indirectly with markets out of Europe (such as the United States or Uganda) must ensure that the receiving country is possessed of adequate data protection laws that will protect EU citizens. In the absence of adequate regulation, the GDPR allows a data controller to transfer/ process personal data outside the EEA using appropriate safeguards such as the EU adopted or Approved Standard

Contractual Clauses (SCCs), Codes of Conduct and/or Binding Corporate Rules. In addition, the company in question must ensure that data subjects have enforceable rights and effective legal remedies in the third country. Key under such SCCs is consent and right to be forgotten, which was first introduced by the European Court of Justice (ECJ) in a case involving Google Spain, where the ECJ affirmed that data subjects have a “right to be forgotten” and held that Google must delete “inadequate, irrelevant or no longer relevant” data from its results when a member of the public requests it. The European Commission also has the power under Article 45, to review a third country’s legal system, domestic law and international commitments to determine whether it ensures an adequate level of protection for personal data. On 12th July 2016, the EU did utilise such power and ruled that the US had adequate protection to enable data transfers under EU law pursuant to the EU/US Privacy Shield Framework.

BUSINESS TRAVELLER SCHREMS II, SURVEILLANCE AND SCCs On 16th July 2020, the Court of Justice of the European Union (CJEU) in C-311/18 (Schrems II) invalidated the Safe Harbour/Privacy Shield framework between the EU and the US. Consequently, any transatlantic data transfers to the US from the European Economic Area (EEA) and relying on the Privacy Shield are now illegal. On interpreting whether the EU Commission in its earlier decision had succinctly addressed the issue of the US having an adequate level of protection, the CJEU held that in Implementing Decision (EU) 2016/1250, the Commission failed to consider Article 7 on respect for private and family life, Article 8 on protection of personal data and Article 47 on the right to an effective remedy and to a fair trial of the CFREU. The provisions would in essence act as a sort of SI indicator for what amounts to an adequate level of protection in a third country. The decision reinforces/supplements decisions from other jurisdictions that have underpinned the importance of data and privacy as human rights. In 2017, the Supreme Court of India in Justice K.S. Puttaswamy (Retd.) & Anor. v Union of India & Ors, WP (Civil) 492 of 2012, declared that privacy is a fundamental right protected under the country’s constitution for each of its over 1.3 billion citizens. Using the same stare-decisis, and in light of the court’s concerns around the US surveillance activities and lack of redress mechanisms for data subjects, it is likely that the CJEU would reach the same conclusion for Uganda, whose surveillance laws such as the Regulation of Interception Act (RICA) do not surmise the safeguards envisioned by the DPPA and the GDPR. Standard Contractual Clauses (SCCs) The CJEU in its decision did not invalidate SCCs and BCRs but

emphasised that even when using them, organisations must assess the level of personal data protection offered in the US, taking into account the circumstances of each particular transfer and any supplementary protection measures they take themselves. In particular, Section 128 of the CJEU judgment states that; “Article 46(1) of the GDPR provides that, in the absence of an adequacy decision, a controller or processor may transfer personal data to a third country only if the controller or processor has provided appropriate safeguards, and on condition that enforceable data subject rights and effective legal remedies for data subjects, are available. According to Article 46(2)(c) of the GDPR, those safeguards may be provided by standard data protection clauses drawn up by the Commission.” Further, according to sections 131 and 132 of the CJEU ruling, it is incumbent upon the controller or processor established in the EU to provide adequate safeguards in the form of SCCs which may be adopted and/or supplemented by the Commission. Uganda’s DPPA does not specifically provide for SCCs but under Section 7 (2) (C), personal data may be collected and/ or processed in furtherance of a contract to which the data subject is party, and under 17 (2)(e) of the DPPA, 2019, a person who processes personal data shall take into account the contractual rights and obligations between the data subject and processor. We may discern therefore that Data Controllers And Processors (recipients) in utilising SCCs are advised to; 1: Mutually undertake to ensure that the processing and transfer of data pursuant to SCCs, has been and will continue to be carried out in accordance with ‘the applicable data protection law’, and with due consideration to the fundamental rights and freedoms of individuals, and in particular, their right to privacy.

2: The recipient of data is required to notify within reasonable time, the controller of any inability to comply with its obligations under the contract concluded. 3: Suspend the transfer of data and/ or terminate the contract where the recipient is not, or is no longer able to comply with the standard data protection clauses. 4: Ensure that the controller and recipient of personal data satisfy themselves that the legislation of the third country of destination enables the recipient to comply with the standard data protection clauses. 5: The data controller and the recipient of personal data are required to verify, prior to any transfer, whether the level of protection required by the appropriate law of the sending country, is respected in the third country concerned. To conclude, The CJEU judgment inter-alia re-emphasises the power/ importance of data oversight authorities and the effect a single decision can have on entire industries that depend on cross-border transfer of data.

Kenneth Muhangi is a Lecturer of IP and ICT Law, Managing Partner at KTA Advocates (Technology, Media, Telecommunications & Intellectual Property), represents Uganda at the 4IR Portfolio Communities of the Centre for Fourth Industrial Revolution of the World Economic Forum, is an External Advisor to the Ministry of ICT on innovation and ICT policy development, and is a consultant with the World Bank.

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SPORTS

UGANDA CRANES CHASING THIRD

STRAIGHT AFCON QUALIFICATION Words by Mark Namanya

ow times change! Only six years ago, Uganda Cranes fans were bemoaning a jinx that had denied the country participation at the Africa Cup of Nations for nearly four decades. Time and again, the country had fallen agonisingly short of qualifying for the continent’s most prestigious soccer tournament. Generations and generations of players had come and gone, coaches fired and others recycled, federations changed, but the one constant was that the Cranes couldn’t make the AFCON finals. But not any longer. They have played at the last two AFCON tournaments and today, qualification is almost a given. Except that it isn’t. The 2021 AFCON tournament, which was delayed by a year because of the COVID-19 pandemic, is within touching distance for the national team, but coach Johnathan McKinstry’s charges must wait until March 2021 to guarantee a third straight appearance at the biennial competition. Victory against either Burkina Faso on March 22 in Kampala or away to Malawi on March 30 will ensure that the Cranes return to the Africa Cup of Nations

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Above: Cranes striker Patrick Kaddu celebrates his decisive header that earned Uganda a spot at the 2019 Africa Cup of Nations in Egypt

after featuring in 2017 and 2019. Uganda would have sealed a spot in Cameroon but for a lacklustre defeat to South Sudan late 2020. The Cranes now sit in second place of Group B with seven points from four matches, one behind leaders Burkina Faso. To qualify, the Cranes must finish the group occupying one of the top two spots to secure a ticket to Cameroon in 2022. Keen observers of Uganda’s drastic improvement in the qualifiers ought to look far back to failed campaigns

SPORTS

TO QUALIFY, THE CRANES MUST FINISH THE GROUP

OCCUPYING ONE OF THE TOP TWO SPOTS TO SECURE A TICKET TO CAMEROON NEXT YEAR

of 2011 and 2012 to understand and appreciate why qualifying for the AFCON tournament shouldn’t be taken for granted. Back then Uganda Cranes were denied, first by Kenya’s Harambee Stars and one year later Zambia’s Chipolopolo, leaving the country’s hearts broken. The Cranes had dominated both decisive qualification matches but somehow couldn’t strike the decisive blow that was required to book an AFCON berth. Both mind-chilling failures occurred before a packed Namboole Stadium and a host of players either retired voluntarily or were retired by the technical side of national team management. In the 2015 campaign, Uganda once again came short at the final hurdle but that particular miss is not as painful as the previous ones, partly because it happened on the neutral ground of Senegal and not before 42000 fans at Namboole. Then, Uganda Cranes were beaten by Guinea after Andy Mwesigwa turned in a poor defensive display. When they finally broke the duck in September 2016, the writing had long been on the wall. The squad composition had a blend of experience, youth and mental fortitude.

For instance goalkeeper Denis Onyango, who would later win the CAF Player of the Year Award for Africa-based players, had been part of the national team for over a decade and after experiencing the failures of 2011 and 2012, was desperate to bury the aforementioned ghosts. It was the same mindset for players like Geoffrey Massa, Tonny Mawejje and Hassan Wasswa Mawanda. In Farouq Miya, the team had a rising youngster who had developed a knack for scoring vital goals in national team colours. Although he was relatively new to the national team fold, Miya had a big-game prowess that made him a favourite for coach Micho Sredojevic. One factor that can’t be disregarded is that FUFA President Moses Magogo pushed for the national team players to be remunerated better, both by the government and the federation. “With better incentives, these players focus better and apply themselves in the right away,” Magogo said when he met President Museveni in early 2016. By the time Uganda played Comoros in the must-win game, there was almost no chance that they wouldn’t win. Something was always going to fall in line for the Cranes and on September 4, 2016, it did. In a close game, it was

Below: Cranes coach Sebastian Desabre (kneeling, right) was overcome by emotion after Uganda made back-toback AFCON qualifications in 2018

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SPORTS

WHEN THEY FINALLY BROKE THE DUCK IN SEPTEMBER 2016,

THE WRITING HAD LONG BEEN ON THE WALL. THE SQUAD COMPOSITION HAD A BLEND OF EXPERIENCE, YOUTH AND MENTAL FORTITUDE

Left: Farouq Miya has develpoed a knack for scoring crucial goals for Uganda Cranes

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a Miya winner that settled the day and sent the team to their first AFCON tournament in nearly four decades. Uganda hadn’t played at the Africa Cup of Nations since 1978 and the end of that barren run was met with nationwide excitement as fans poured onto the Namboole turf to celebrate a famous win. For coach Sredojevic, it was a special qualification seeing as Uganda was the first country he set foot in Africa when he was appointed SC Villa coach back in 2001. Re-writing history in a country he calls his second home was a special feat for the Serb, who is currently managing Zambia. Although Uganda did poorly at the 2017 tournament, the results were not so much of an issue then. The team had had a taste of AFCON football and were keen to return to the showpiece event. In 2018 and under the management of coach Sebastein Desabre, the Cranes qualified for a second AFCON after beating Cape Verde at Namboole. This time, new faces had emerged on the national team and the hero of that match was Patrick Kaddu, whose header took the country to Egypt in 2019. In Cairo, the Cranes started in emphatic fashion by beating DRC and holding Zimbabwe. Although the team lost the third game against hosts Egypt, qualification to the second round was secured. But the team self-destructed in a bonus row and later lost to Senegal in the knockout stage. The transition through the years means today’s Uganda Cranes side is very different from the one that played at the 2017 Africa Cup of Nations. The team today features players like Fahad Bayo, Elvis Bwomomo, Allan Okello, Halid Lwalilwa, Karim Watambala and Abdul Lumala. But there remains a core of the old guard that includes Khalid Aucho, Denis Onyango, Emmanuel Okwi, Timothy Awany and Joseph Ochaya. If as expected Uganda goes on to reach the 2022 AFCON tournament in Cameroon, the Cranes will have turned the country’s participation into a habit. And it is from that habit that national team players can showcase their skills to a host of scouts who can interest them in lucrative transfer deals. In turn, that exposure of the country’s best players would do the team a world of good. With Uganda being the dominant country in virtually all regional under-age competitions, the future of the Cranes talent pool looks bright. But for McKinstry now, the overriding objective is to win a place at 2022’s AFCON.

DIARY

SEMLIKI SAFARI LODGE UGANDA’S OLDEST UPMARKET TENTED CAMP

NG’AALI MAGAZINE COLUMNIST CHARLOTTE BEAUVOISIN, AUTHOR OF THE POPULAR TRAVEL BLOG DIARY OF A MUZUNGU, TAKES YOU ON A LUXURY SAFARI IN SEMLIKI, A LESS TRAVELLED CORNER OF UGANDA. ENJOY A NIGHT GAME DRIVE, ENGAGE WITH EXPERTS WHO ARE ACTIVELY CONSERVING A PROTECTED AREA, AND SHARE STORIES OVER MASTERCHEF-CALIBRE DINNERS AT THE CAPTAIN’S TABLE.

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emliki Safari Lodge sits in the middle of ToroSemliki Wildlife Reserve in Western Uganda, a Protected Area that will soon be upgraded to a National Park. “Uganda’s oldest upmarket tented camp” is equidistant from Lake Albert and the excellent new road from Fort Portal to Bundibugyo that winds its way through jaw-dropping Rift Valley panoramas. This was my third - and arguably my most interesting - visit to this luxury lodge. My mission? To count birds on behalf of NatureUganda (while being spoiled rotten!). Toro-Semliki’s birdlife is fantastic and easily seen. The wildlife reserve may not have the animal numbers of

DIARY well-established national parks but forest elephants and a multitude of primates made for three memorable game drives. One morning I even heard the unmistakable sound of a chimpanzee in the forest below my tent. “I heard a leopard last night,” Lodge Manager Tony announced when we checked in – but would we see one?

Even with the reduced number of staff (due to

Cats, Scat And Bats! A Night Game Drive In Semliki Wildlife Reserve We were thrilled when the team suggested we jump in the lodge’s safari vehicle for a night game drive to the nearby airstrip. As we dimmed our torches, fireflies blinked in the darkness and we bumped along the murram track. Our first sighting was a pretty little Genet Cat, similar in size to a domestic cat with a bushy tail. Once I was familiar with their eye colour and size, it was easy to pick out more Genets in the woodland either side of the track. A few minutes from the lodge, we pulled up next to a big puddle. We were amazed when Tony jumped out and plucked a terrapin from the muddy water! (How have I lived in Uganda all this time and never seen one of these aquatic reptiles?) He explained how side-headed terrapins are common in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve but only appear when the rain fills up the ruts and gullies. “Our guides drive around the puddles to protect the terrapins, rather than through them.” (I can see my friend Julia will never drive through a puddle again!) On the airstrip, a small flat area of cut grass, we cruised slowly up and down looking for Nightjars, shy nocturnal birds that are sometimes seen ‘dust bathing’ on the ground. They are masters of camouflage. It is only when you (almost) run them over that you notice them fly off in a panic. According to Stevenson and Fanshawe’s Birds of East Africa, “Nightjars are a notoriously difficult group to identify: not only do the species look alike, several have different colour morphs.” Don’t ask this casual birder to tell the two species apart, but our

the COVID-19 pandemic), the lodge did a tremendous job of looking after us.

guides did. There were two new ticks for the muzungu that night: a Square-tailed nightjar and a Slender-tailed nightjar. Temporarily dazzled by our torches, they sat silent and immobile giving us the chance to admire their delicate plumage. A Water Thick-knee pretended not to see us. This mainly nocturnal bird “freezes or squats if disturbed,” the book tells us. How true! “They are easily identified by their well-camouflaged brown plumage, large yellow eyes and long thickly jointed yellowish legs.” Our nocturnal adventure continued with more interesting creatures: a leopard had visited the airstrip not long before us! As we swept our torches along the ground, we picked out the small dark shapes of animal droppings. On closer inspection, the leopard scat (poo) was crawling with 40 dung beetles. Tony’s eyes lit up with excitement. “I’ve never seen so many! It’s the remains of a leopard’s kill,” he said. As we leaned in for a closer look, we recognised fluffy grey baboon fur among the dung beetles, moths and

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DIARY

EVERY

MOUTHFUL OF FOOD WAS DELICIOUS. EACH

INGREDIENT IS CAREFULLY CONSIDERED, FROM THE HOME-MADE CHILLI TO THE EXQUISITE PUMPKIN SOUP AND PRETTY CREATIONS OF DELICATE SALAD LEAVES.

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leopard scat. The beetles had clearly been industrious in the preceding 24-hours: little remained of the baboon prey. We may not have seen the leopard, but it was clearly around. Back in the vehicle, we spotted the ears of a young Kob poking through the long grass at the verge of the airstrip. “Don’t disturb it.” Tony explained how we must not draw attention to this lone calf. It would make easy pickings for a leopard. It was wonderful to be in the great outdoors with like-minded conservationists and nature-lovers. As we drove back to the lodge - and around the puddles - a Yellow-winged bat swept through the night air. At the lodge, the beam of our headlights picked out a Defassa waterbuck in the sanctuary of the lodge grounds. Wining, dining and sleeping - Semliki Safari creature comforts Even with the reduced number of staff (due to the COVID-19 pandemic), the lodge did a tremendous job of looking

DIARY after us. Every mouthful of food was delicious. Each ingredient is carefully considered, from the home-made chilli to the exquisite pumpkin soup and pretty creations of delicate salad leaves. Breakfast is a gourmet affair of poached eggs with bacon and rocket, cereals and tropical fruit served with homemade bread, chunky marmalade and excellent coffee. Every night, guests are invited to dine by candlelight with the lodge managers at the Captain’s Table, a rare treat at a Ugandan lodge. Tony and Noline are seasoned safari experts. (I would revisit any time for these shared dining experiences alone!) The huge dining table - fashioned from one gigantic slab of wood - is perfect for social distancing. Semliki’s main living area of chunky sofas, tribal art and wall murals by the artist Taga, is rather grand. All the rooms are fitted to a high standard. The hardwood floor of the luxury tents felt wonderful underfoot and there were generous amounts of hot water for the showers and luxurious outdoor bathtubs. Persian carpets and antique furniture recall a classic African safari. Kikois (traditional African shawls) and slippers are provided, as well as mosquito repellent and a lockable cupboard. Every suite has a daybed on its private deck. On a tour of the lodge grounds, Tony explained how the units have been remodelled to maximise the forest views. The new layout almost doubles the floor size of each luxury setup. Where possible, every item has been recycled, including “Amin’s steel,” reclaimed from the ruins of the original Uganda Hotel that once sat on this site. Here in the bush, the Uganda Safari Company has invested heavily in solar power, a water borehole, a vegetable garden and more. They supply the water to the UWA and UPDF camps, a key contribution to managing the security of the Wildlife Reserve and its wildlife. Working together, the three organisations have cut the tracks and created a pond for animals to drink from during the dry season, amongst other initiatives. I

Chimp sightings are not guaranteed but you have a good chance of seeing Olive Baboons, Vervet, Red-tailed and Black and White Colobus monkeys.

admire The Uganda Safari Company’s vision - and determination - to protect this little pocket of nature. Twice a year, the Diary of a Muzungu team carries out bird population monitoring on behalf of NatureUganda. Our patch is the Kibale Conservation Area which comprises Kibale National Park, Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, Semliki National Park, Lake Saka / Lake Bikere, Toro Botanical Gardens, Fort Portal and Katonga Wildlife Reserve. We visit for the birds - and we hang around for the mammals, reptiles, butterflies and wild spaces. Whether you drive – or fly in - to Semliki, I highly recommend game drives with the lodge’s knowledgeable site guides Julius and David. They know the Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve inside out and are full of interesting anecdotes. They are expert drivers too. In fact, if you want to learn four-wheel-drive defensive driving, Tony is your man! Semliki is “a Mecca for birders” with over 425 species. My birding highlights included: Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Crested Francolin, Crowned Hornbill, Palm Nut Vulture, Flappet Lark, White-browed Coucal, Grey Kestrel, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Striped Kingfisher, Helmeted Guineafowl, African Paradise Flycatcher, Black-billed Barbet, Northern Black Flycatcher, Oxpecker, Ruppell’s Long-tailed Starling, Long-crested Eagle, Black Coucal,

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DIARY Grey-backed Fiscal, Rattling Cisticola, Blue-naped Mousebird, Ring-necked Dove, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Ross’s Turaco, Pygmy Kingfisher, Piapiac, Bateleur, African White-backed Vulture, Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu, Bluespotted Wood-dove, Little Bee eater, White-banded Snake Eagle, and Forktailed Drongo. Recommended activities from Semliki Safari Lodge ● A night game drive to the airstrip. ● Safari game drive on one of the numerous tracks in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve. ● A dip in the lodge swimming pool. ● Sundowners at the Semliki Bush Bar on an evening game drive or at the campfire at the lodge. ● Luxurious bush breakfasts, picnics and private dinners in stunning locations. ● Primate walk in Mugri Forest below the lodge. Chimp sightings are not guaranteed but you have a good chance of seeing Olive baboons, Vervet, Redtailed and Black and White Colobus monkeys. Bookings can be made at the

At Semliki, guests stay in golden-hued tents with gleaming hardwood floors. Staying under canvas is one of the most romantic and exciting things to do on safari in Africa.

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Uganda Wildlife Authority office next to the lodge entrance. ● Lake Albert and tours to see the Shoebill are 30 minutes’ drive away and can be arranged by the lodge. ● Look for butterflies. The Sunbird Hill team identified over 50 species including: Blue Sailor, Sulphur Orange Tip, Pea Blue, Red Tip, African Queen, Pearl Charaxes, Citrus Swallowtail, Blue Demon Charaxes, Scarlet Tip and Guineafowl Butterfly. ● Birding in Semliki National Park (SNP) or Ntandi along the main road just outside SNP, just over an hour’s drive from the lodge. ● The hot springs at Sempaya, in Semliki National Park. You will need to pay the UWA park entry fee. ● Do a day - or longer - hike in the Rwenzori foothills. There are a number of tour operators and community organisations that organise hikes. ● Andrew Roberts, co-author of the Bradt Uganda Guide, recommends the (very steep) walk from Ntandi to Karugutu. ● Bundibugyo is the closest town in the Rwenzoris to the DRC (just 10km). There is not a lot to do in Bundibugyo but I find it rather charming. It’s a scenic drive, particularly during the rainy seasons, and you may see cocoa plantations along the way. ● Enjoy the Rift Valley scenery. As you drive from Fort Portal, with the Rwenzori foothills to your left, there are a number of roadside stops where you can take photographs looking down the Kijura Escarpment. If you love birds, a tranquil pace, seriously great food and stimulating company, you will love Semliki Safari Lodge. It’s perfect for seasoned safari-goers who have seen the Big Five but just want to reconnect with nature. If you’re travelling to this area of Uganda, this is one of the best places to stay. Pictures by Semliki Safari Lodge, The Uganda Safari Company

DESTINATION UGANDA The Nakayima Tree, said to be 40 metres tall, is reputed to have magical powers. According to legend, the tree sprung from a pole at the main gate of the palace of Ndahura, one of the last kings of the legendary Chwezi people, who are said to have been demi-gods. Words by Kalungi Kabuye

ometime in the early 20th Century, a young colonial cartographer who was putting together the map of Uganda (somewhere in the vicinity of Mubende, approximately three and a half hours’ drive from Kampala), marked a place as ‘witch tree’. Something must have really frightened him because that was all there was on the map – the notation ‘witch tree’, with no explanation of what it meant. What exactly was the ‘witch tree’? Did it actually have magic? Why was it named so? Had it ever bewitched anyone? The British colonialists did not encourage witchcraft and made laws against it; so why was a witch tree marked on the map of Uganda? I first went to see the Nakayima Tree, as it is more formally known, in 1996 and had the chance to go back in 2019 with some colleagues. Bizarrely, you have to ask for directions as there is no signpost to point you to what is described as a national heritage site. While the easiest way to get around Uganda today is to ask boda boda riders for directions, the young ones we found in Mubende had no idea about the Nakayima Tree or where it was. Eventually, we found an elderly lady who pointed out the route to take, “… that way, climb the hills,” she said. So we climbed the hills in our 4-wheel drive SUV, and climbed, and climbed, and then climbed some more. Nothing looked familiar, and I was beginning to think we had taken a wrong turn when after yet another turn, a signpost

announced ‘Mubende Town Council welcomes you to Nakayima Tourist Site’. After yet another curve in the road, we got to the top of the hill, and there in front of us was a very tall, majestic tree, surrounded by a circle of other not-sotall trees. It was about 8:00am but there was a bustle of activity in the clearing, and several cars were parked here. In a far corner of the clearing, tents had been rigged up, and it was clear that some people had spent the night. This then, was the famous witch tree, although some of my colleagues had never seen or heard of it. According to legend, the Nakayima Tree sprung from a pole at the main gate of the palace of Ndahura, one of the last kings of the legendary Chwezi people, who are said to have been demi-gods and thus had spiritual powers. They reportedly were present around the turn of the first millennium, and ‘disappeared’ around AD1300. After many years as king, Ndahura abdicated in favour of his son, Wamala, who subsequently moved the capital of the kingdom farther away to present-day Masaka. When Ndahura eventually died, his wife, Nakayima, stayed on at his palace on Boma hill. Word soon spread that Nakayima was a medium and could communicate with the dead Ndahura, whose spirit was believed to reside in the tree, so devotees showed up to ask the dead king for fame and fortune. People started worshipping the tree as a connection to the demigods that had disappeared. When we got there, we were asked to pay an ‘entry fee’ of UGX 3,500, and a young man named

Wabwire offered to take us around to explain the mysteries of the ‘witch tree’. The Nakayima Tree, said to be 40 metres tall, is reputed to have magical powers, and that was why all these people were here. According to Wabwire, when Nakayima died, her spirit also disappeared into the tree trunk and all the trees surrounding the main one are her relatives. He points to features on the tree that look like parts of a woman’s physique, including the backside and breasts. There is also a part that looks like the mouth of a cow and is said to be Nakayima’s cow. Traditionally, Nakayima was not only a caretaker of the tree, but was also regularly possessed by the spirit of Ndahura, on which occasions her extremities became covered in smallpox marks for several days. Her supernatural powers are said to have included the ability to cure and prevent smallpox and other fatal diseases, and to help infertile women bear children. After she died, Nakayima was succeeded by another princess, who took on her name and title, and the responsibilities of being a medium. The position became hereditary over the years and the Nakayima, or Nyakahima, always a Muhima from Ankole, wielded considerable power and was recognised even beyond the borders of BunyoroKitara. According to Wabwire, 10 Nakayimas lived near the tree until 1907 when British colonialists finally evicted the last one, also called Nyanjara, who eventually died in Fort Portal. Her fantastic regalia now forms one of the most impressive displays in the

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DESTINATION UGANDA national museum in Kampala - together with two large ancient pots. The people that came after the Bachwezi, the Bahima, are said to have tried to cut down the tree to weaken the Chwezi influence but failed, as did the British. They subsequently built colonial administration offices near it, and future government officials occupied it at various times. Some government officials were still in residence when I first went there in 1996, but it now stands empty and in ruins; Wabwire said it is taboo for anyone to stay there. Although the last Nakayima, Nyanjura, died more than 100 years ago, her spirit is still very present, said Wabwire. In flawless Luganda, he explained the history of the parts of the tree and the plethora of pots that lie at its base. When it rains, water is collected in the pots, which are supposed to represent different deities and thus have different powers. There are Ndahura, Mukasa, Musoke and Kirunda pots, all said to cure different ailments. Nakayima does not offer medicine and there are simple rules that govern this place, for example, women are not allowed to come here during their menses. The buttress roots of the tree are referred to as ‘rooms’. There are 18 of them, each representing a different deity, and the largest opening is said to represent a boat, which Nakayima supposedly uses when she wants to go sailing. A notice issued by the Buganda Ministry of Culture, Heritage, Royal Tombs, and Tourism stands prominently in front of the tree as you get to the site. Among the dos and don’ts (spelt out in Luganda) are: no slaughtering animals at the site, no building shrines, no ‘bad manners’, no drugs and alcohol allowed, and one can only spend a maximum of 3 nights at the site. About a hundred metres from the tree, beyond the house built by the British, is ‘Nakayima’s lake’. Wabwire tells us that every morning, Nakayima goes to the lake to take a bath, and no one is supposed to stand in her way, to and fro, and that anyone that dares look at her naked self will disappear into one of the neighbourhood trees. He did not answer when I asked him if anyone has actually ever laid eyes on Nakayima, and subsequently disappeared. It is said that one time experts visited the site and performed tests on the tree, and declared it to be between 600 and 700 years old. But Wabwire insists the tree is more than 1,000 years old, will still be standing long after all of us are gone, and that Nakayima will continue to bless her devotees until the end of time.

There are features on the tree that look like parts of a woman’s physique, including the backside and breasts. There is also a part that looks like the mouth of a cow and is said to be Nakayima’s cow.

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DESTINATION UGANDA

THE BUTTRESS ROOTS OF THE TREE ARE REFERRED TO AS ‘ROOMS’. THERE ARE 18 OF THEM, EACH REPRESENTING A DIFFERENT DEITY

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Dubai is famous as one of the world’s wealthiest and most vibrant cities. Fortunately, for those with a love for the romance of the desert, it hasn’t quite shaken the sand off its roots. Words by Mark Eveleigh

here’s nothing quite like 14-carat gold soap for getting the sand out from under your fingernails. I dry my hands on a plush velvet towel that is embroidered with the curlicue logo of ‘Atlantis the Palm’ and head back into the suite towards Kim Kardashian’s sumptuous four-poster bed. She’s not in it, I hasten to add, so I wander out onto the terrace of a suite that costs more per night than most people spend on a year’s rent. (Bear in mind though that the USD27,000 pricetag includes complimentary massages and, of course, soap sprinkled with 14-carat gold-leaf). At this point, I should admit that I’m not actually a guest in the so-called Royal Bridge Suite. Once out on the terrace, nevertheless, I allow myself a moment of completely undeserved satisfaction that I’m privileged to be standing at the very centre-point of the best address in Dubai, which, to many people, would mean the best spot in the world. Ferraris, Maseratis and Rolls Royces are mere specks on the avenue running down the centre of Palm Jumeirah, the manmade island that has added 78km to Dubai’s waterfront. An ancient parable deals with the wisdom (or not) of building a house on sand but Dubai has taken the challenge to extremes and built an entire city and business empire on the stuff. Four thousand years ago, Dubai was a humble trading port with a scattering of dhows loaded with copper and frankincense, but today the city boasts the world’s biggest mall, the tallest skyscraper (the 828m Burj Khalifa), and the planet’s largest manmade island. Palm Jumeirah is not only the location of the 1,539-room Atlantis Resort but is also home to 4,000 luxury villas shaded by about 12,000 palm trees. It is often described in Dubai as the 8th wonder of the world yet it was built in less than ten years. Not content with such achievements, the city is now busy building the 9th and 10th ‘wonders of the world’: the manmade islands of

DESTINATION DUBAI Palm Jebel Ali, and Palm Deira, will be even bigger and together, the three islands will add about 520km to Dubai’s coastline. The desert is still out there, however. In fact, it is wonderfully accessible and even today, no trip to Dubai should be considered complete without some time spent ‘playing in the sand’. Standing in 40°C heat on the terrace with the Royal Bridge Suite’s airconditioning wafting out through the doors behind me, I thought back to the previous evening when I was out in the solitude of the desert. Dubai’s sleek highway had seemed almost like an experience in time-travel as my Tardis (actually a V8 Nissan 4x4 driven by a white-robed Emerati called Sharif) swept me smoothly out of a city-centre that seemed virtually abandoned. The desert heat means that most people get to appointments via cars or the air-conditioned cocoons of the metro and through the network of pedestrian tunnels. It comes as a surprise, therefore, when you turn off the highway and suddenly find yourself in a crowd. Al Badayer, our gateway to the desert, must have originally been just a little roadside trading centre before it became the launching pad for many of Dubai’s desert tours. “It will be about 10 minutes while we deflate the tyres, so feel free to have a look around and photograph the camel… or whatever,” said Sharif. ‘Whatever’ turned out to be a gravel parking lot filled with quad-bikes and dune-buggies that could be rented out for a quick noisy spin around the cordoned-off course, and a gang of touts who worked hard to convince me of the foolhardiness of attempting to penetrate the sandy wastes without a dishdasha headcloth. ‘The camel’ was possibly the most photographed member of its species in the world. I once spent several weeks being kicked and spat at by camels in the Algerian Sahara, so I resisted the temptation to queue up for the seemingly obligatory selfie with the Kim Kardashian of the Camelidae family.

AN ANCIENT PARABLE DEALS WITH THE WISDOM (OR NOT) OF BUILDING

A HOUSE ON SAND BUT DUBAI HAS TAKEN THE CHALLENGE TO EXTREMES AND

BUILT AN ENTIRE CITY AND BUSINESS EMPIRE ON THE STUFF

With tyres (and expectations) slightly deflated, we roared in a convoy of about 20 vehicles out into the dunes. Fortunately, there really is something rousing about the great wilderness spaces of the desert. Within a few minutes, the vehicles had spread out and I started to enjoy a sense of seclusion. The journey became a whooping swooping rollercoaster ride through a billowing landscape, and I grew increasingly envious of all the fun Sharif was having as he powered the heavy 4x4 into surf-style cutbacks and cranking turns that sent great waves of sand flying up from the wings of the car. Hooligan-driving in the desert is made all the more enjoyable by the fact that within hours, the landscape would revert to the pristine appearance it had before our tearing wheels had swept over it. All signs of our reckless passage would be erased with the first touch of the evening breeze.

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DESTINATION DUBAI Finally, Sharif powered the car up the flank of a steep dune and brought it to a skidding halt on a saddleback just below the summit. Even as he stopped, a slight groaning landslide slid down to remove our tracks, as if an invisible hand was carefully erasing them. The dunes are never static – always changing and drifting. I remembered how, in the Moroccan Sahara, I’d heard tales of blind desert guides who navigated in ancient times by sense of smell: “You can’t trust your eyes anyway,” the locals had told me, “In just a few days the dunes can look completely different.” By now, the sun was sinking rapidly into the western dunes staining them deeper gold with every moment, and looking around, I realised that the landscape appeared to be the same in every direction. The only distinguishing marks were the other little white cars in the distance similarly perched – like improbable patches of ice – on top of the larger dunes. There’s a feeling of tranquility in the desert that is hard to find in any of the world’s other wilderness areas and there’s something delightfully unnerving in the immensity of a ‘sandscape’ that stretched out into the mindboggling expanses of the Empty Quarter. The Rub’ al-Khali - to give it it’s Arabic name, stretches in an unbroken chain of dunes 1000km from United Arab Emirates through Oman, Saudi Arabia and Yemen. I had driven in a Land Rover expedition through part of the Empty Quarter in Oman once and, stopping the cars at midday in brain-boiling 50°C heat, it had struck me that without the cars it would be difficult to survive for more than a few hours. At night, the desert is a far more benign environment, but a sprinkling of stars was peppering the sky by the time we jumped back into the car to chase our ribbon of headlamps back to the highway. Like most of Dubai’s dune-bashing tours, our evening ended

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at a desert resort where a buffet meal was accompanied by a cabaret of gyrating belly-dancers and the sultry desert night was fanned with the skirts of a team of frantic whirling dervishes. Complimentary camel rides, falconry displays and henna-painting are enough to convince you that traditional life must have been unusually full for the Bedouin tribes of the Empty Quarter. You don’t have to go all the way into the Empty Quarter to find sand and, right on the edge of the business district, Dubai has once again found a way to turn some of it into virtual gold. Sun spots like RIVA Beach Club on The Palm offer you a chance to lounge in a blissfully chilled swimming-pool and Jumeirah’s Nikki Beach allows you to dodge the glitterati in your VIP cabaña. Many of the beach clubs (Nikki included) only allow admission to adults aged 21 and over but Aquaventure Waterpark is adventure heaven for any water-baby (from 3 to 63). Part of the Atlantis complex, Aquaventure combines with The Lost Chambers aquarium – with its 11.5-million-litre Ambassador Lagoon – to make an unmissable family holiday experience. Just north of The Palm, you find a less frantic venue on the great sweeping 2km stretch of sand that is Kite Beach. The kite-surfers who gave the beach its name have moved on and Kite Beach is a favourite weekend (Friday and Saturday) hangout for local families and in-theknow expats, and is one of Dubai’s most idyllic places for a stroll among the joggers. Plan to arrive early enough in the morning to catch the sea-breeze and watch the morning sun as it glints on the billowing steel and glass arc of the iconic Burj al Arab skyscraper. Designed to mirror the shape of the sails of the traditional dhows that brought the earliest trade to this sun-drenched coast, this so-called 7-star hotel is perhaps the flagship of Dubai’s built-on-sand empire.

DESTINATION DUBAI

WHERE TO SLEEP

If the USD27,000 Royal Bridge Suite is out of your budget, Atlantis The Palm also has 3-storey ‘underwater suites’ for USD6000 each. Regular deluxe rooms at Atlantis (www. atlantisthepalm.com) are available from USD320, including unlimited complimentary access to Aquaventure Waterpark and The Lost Chambers aquarium. Fairmont Dubai (www.fairmont.com), one of Dubai’s most popular hotels, is located across the road from the World Trade Centre Metro Station and within a short taxi ride of most sights. Room rates start at USD245, including sumptuous breakfast buffets. The ever popular Shangri-La (www.shangri-la. com) offers spacious rooms from USD245.

WHERE TO EAT

Noire Dubai (fairmont.com/dubai/dining/noire-dining-in-the-dark/) won ‘Best Experimental Restaurant in the Middle East’ in the 2016 BBC Good Food Awards. This visionary (no pun intended) dine-in-the-dark venue features waiters in night-vision goggles and combines an unforgettable experience with a truly delicious meal. The Palm RIVA Beach Club (www.riva-beach.com) brings the flavours of the Mediterranean to the Gulf Coast, and Master Chef Nobu Matsuhisa has created Nobu (www.noburestaurants. com) – over 1000 square metres of traditional and modern Japanese flair – serving what might be the world’s finest hautecuisine sushi.

WHERE TO SHOP

Dubai Mall (www.thedubaimall.com) is the world’s biggest shopping mall with about 1,200 outlets. Apart from some of the best shopping on the planet, this is one of the city’s great entertainment venues with an ice rink and giant aquarium for those who don’t happen to be dedicated shoppers. The mall is so astonishingly huge that it helps to do some research and know where you want to go in advance. Dubai takes shopping to a new level (it’s even possible to buy gold bullion from a gold-plated ATM) and, with Dubai International Airport boasting 26,000 square metres of tax free retail space, online shopping via www.dubaidutyfree.com can be a hassle-free way of making your purchases without having to schedule precious holiday-hours for ‘retail therapy’. To catch some of Dubai’s trading heritage, head to the old Souks in the timeless Deira quarter, where you can browse for spices, perfume, textiles…and, of course, more gold!

HOW TO GET AROUND

Taxis are comfortable, efficient and relatively inexpensive (on average less than USD3 for a 3km ride). A taxi from the airport to a downtown hotel is likely to cost about USD13. The Dubai Metro is predictably well run and connects most of the major sights, and there are specially-guarded family and female carriages.

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DESTINATION MOMBASA

Mombasa

DON’T FORGET TO

ENJOY…

A MOMBASA CITY TOUR

Boasting the largest coastal port in East Africa, Mombasa has been a popular stop-off for traders since the 12th Century. Once upon a time, it was known as the Island of War, following repeated battles between Omani Arabs and the Portuguese who built Fort Jesus in 1593. It welcomed ships from as far afield as the Persian Gulf and the Arabian Peninsula and today, the Swahili centre’s stew of sights, sounds and smells reflects both sub-Saharan and Arabic influences.

This unique excursion starts at Fort Jesus National Museum. Visit the Old Town with its rich culture dating back to 200AD, and the old dhow harbour. See the slave market, spice market, and the floating bridge. To buy souvenirs, you will be taken to Akamba Wood Carvers.

EAT@: PAVILIONS RESTAURANT

STAY @: VOYAGER BEACH HOTEL

A VISIT TO HALLER PARK

Located at the Sarova Whitesands Beach Resort, this classy restaurant comes with a perfect exterior coupled with a sophisticated interior. They pay special attention to their food selection and offer varied themed buffets.

Ideal for families, the clean rooms, relaxed ambience and helpful staff make for a pleasant stay, along with a great selection of food to eat from the buffet at meal times. The view of the sea from the balconies and bedrooms is amazing.

Visit an animal sanctuary that’s home to giraffes, crocodiles, tortoises and more on a half-day trip from Mombasa to Haller Park. This afternoon trip includes pickup and drop-off at both South Coast and North Coast hotels, and is an ideal choice for families.

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DESTINATION JUBA

Wrestling is a hugely popular sport in the world’s youngest nation, which has been devastated by years of civil war. It is a very popular sport among the Dinka, Mundari and Lotuka tribes of South Sudan, and is seen as an avenue to bringing together people from the various warring tribes. Athletes say it is one of the few outlets where ethnic groups who have fought each other can engage in friendly competition. The carnival atmosphere, where wrestlers break out in dance to celebrate victories as women chant the names of the victorious athletes, is a welcome respite from the hardships of daily life.

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DESTINATION JUBA

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HABITUM, FICAE

Kilwa Kisiwani THE GREATEST TREASURE OF SWAHILI MARITIME HISTORY

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nce a burgeoning empire, the biggest and most powerful on the East African Coast, the Tanzanian Kilwa Kisiwani (isle of the fish) now stands in ruins; its labyrinthine pathways, grand palaces and majestic mosques completely abandoned, stripped of their former beauty. Take a walk through Kilwa’s amazing history and discover the incredible wealth that once inhabited its walls. ‘The city comes down to the shore, and is entirely surrounded by a wall and towers, within which there are maybe 12,000 inhabitants. The county all round is very luxurious with many trees and gardens of all sorts of vegetables, citrons, lemons, the best sweet oranges that were ever seen…’ So wrote Gaspar Correia, 16th Century Portuguese soldier and historian, about the island of Kilwa. Only a few years before, circa 1502, his countryman Vasco de Gama – the first European to reach India by sea – had forced Kilwa’s Sultan to pay tribute in gold. So much gold, in fact, that some of it can still be seen in Lisbon where it was forged into an ornate pyx, the Belem de Monstrance, for the Jeronimos Monastery. In 1505, a Portuguese force led by Francisco de Almeida built a fortress on the isle, and its prosperous city began a protracted decline. Although recaptured by an Arab prince in 1512, growing Western dominance of the trade routes ignited the island’s wealth, while successive conquests by Omani, French and German forces clipped its power. By the dawn of the 20th Century, Kilwa was virtually uninhabited and almost completely forgotten. Locals and foreigners alike had little interest in the haunted ruins off the Tanzanian coast. Then, in the 1950s, two 16th Century chronicles, Arabic and Portuguese, were consulted. Both outlined a dynasty of sultans, and British archaeologists excavated the site to find objects that could prove their authenticity. They

DESTINATION TANZANIA succeeded, bringing back coins stamped with sultans and dates that matched those found in the manuscripts. Kilwa, now with a verified history unique in East Africa, became a subject of scholarship recognised as the greatest treasure of Swahili maritime history. In 1981, Kilwa Kisiwani – ‘Isle of the fish’, was declared a World Heritage Site. THE BEGINNINGS OF AN EMPIRE The Kilwa Sultanate began in the 10th Century. Ali ibn al-Hassan was the son of the Emir of Shiraz and an Abyssinian slave. Caught in an inheritance battle with his six brothers, Ali fled his

The Belém Monstrance is probably the most famous work by a Portuguese goldsmith, and is much-admired for its historical importance and artistic merit. Crafted in late Gothic style, it was fashioned of 1,500 mithqals of gold brought to Portugal by Vasco da Gama in 1502 as a tribute from the king of Kilwa. At the bottom are the 12 disciples, praying under the watchful eyes of some angels hovering above.

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DESTINATION TANZANIA homeland with his Persian entourage. He settled on the island, then inhabited by indigenous Bantu people, and began constructing his own city. Legend claims that he bought Kilwa from a local king who exchanged it for enough cloth to encircle the island. The king quickly changed his mind, but Ali had already destroyed the narrow land bridge that connected Kilwa to the mainland, securing it for himself. Ali’s Shirazi dynasty ruled until the 1277 succession crisis, after which the related Mahdali sultans took over. During these first three centuries, several of the buildings (whose ruins survive) were built. The Great Mosque, the oldest extant in the region, was begun in the 1100s and expanded repeatedly afterwards. It has an ornate roof with 16 domes, supported by an astonishingly complex system of arches and pillars. The central dome, now lost, was the largest in East Africa until the 19th Century. When the great Moroccan traveller Ibn Battuta visited in 1331, he was struck by the mosque’s splendour and described the city as ‘fine and substantially built’. Smaller mosques are scattered across Kilwa, each with their own distinct features. The Jangwani Mosque has distinctive water-holders set into its walls to allow worshippers to purify themselves for prayer, while a nameless small mosque – perhaps the city’s most pristine surviving structure – is attached to what is believed to be a madrasa. The majority of the isle’s ruins date from the 14th and early 15th centuries, when the sultanate was at the zenith of its power. Kilwa had become one of the Indian Ocean’s mercantile capitals and its wealthy residents built grandiose coral dwellings. The Great House is said to have been owned by a sultan, who is alleged to be buried in one of the four tombs. The Makutini Palace, likely the most imposing on the island, is a robust triangular structure, built in the 15th Century as the sultan’s stronghold. Pass through its starkly grand towers and you’ll find another sultan’s grave. The Gereza, a fortress on the island’s

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The Great Mosque, the oldest extant in the region, was begun in the 1100s and expanded repeatedly afterwards. It had an ornate roof with 16 domes, supported by an astonishingly complex system of arches and pillars. The central dome, now lost, was the largest in East Africa until the 19th Century.

tip, has elegant crenellation and a vast wooden portal. Most striking of all, however, is the Husuni Kubwa or ‘Queen’s House’. Perched atop a cliff, about a mile from the main cluster of ruins, it is reckoned to be the largest pre-colonial building in sub-Saharan Africa. Within, you’ll find the remains of an 18-domed mosque, an octagonal swimming pool, a vast tiered hall and an array of courtyards. All in all, the complex houses over 100 rooms. When the conquistadors arrived in 1502, the city was the most powerful on the East African coast — with an empire stretching north to south from Malindi in present-day Kenya to Cape Corrientes in Mozambique. Its sultans even controlled outposts on Madagascar. Commerce made it mighty; ships brought in porcelain from China, quartz from Arabia and carnelians from India. Gold and ivory came from Great Zimbabwe in the interior. Spices and perfume were in the air, and pearls, pottery and tortoise shells in the market. Kilwa was the principal gateway between Africa and Asia, the western end of the Indian Ocean trading routes. THE ABANDONED CITY Standing on Kilwa Kisiwani, surrounded by the craggy grey remnants of a once-magnificent court, it’s difficult not to be overwhelmed by a sense of

STANDING ON KILWA KISIWANI, SURROUNDED BY THE CRAGGY GREY REMNANTS OF A ONCE-MAGNIFICENT COURT, IT’S DIFFICULT NOT TO BE OVERWHELMED BY A SENSE OF GREAT LOSS; OF THE ULTIMATE TRANSIENCE OF HUMAN ACHIEVEMENT BUT THERE IS EQUALLY SOMETHING EBULLIENT ABOUT THE ISLAND’S PRODIGAL VARIETY OF RUINS; THE MAJESTY OF THEIR ARCHITECTURE AND THE SENSATION THEY IMPART OF A COHESIVE LIVING COMMUNITY.

great loss; of the ultimate transience of human achievement. But there is equally something ebullient about the island’s prodigal variety of ruins; the majesty of their architecture and the sensation they impart of a cohesive living community. For a potent dose of this latter feeling, head to nearby Songo Mnara, also part of the UNESCO site. Here you’ll find the almost complete remains of a walled town. Manoeuvre the settlement’s labyrinthine passages, passing through the domestic dwelling and public squares. Compared to Kilwa’s romantic, timeworn desolation, Songo Mnara feels like it could have been abandoned yesterday. For both architectural and historical significance, Kilwa Kisiwani is truly

one of the world’s most captivating ensembles of ruins. In June 2015, thanks to the work of local and international conservation organizations, the site was deemed sufficiently secure to be removed from UNESCO’s list of endangered heritage sites. To visit Kilwa Kisiwani, travellers should base themselves in Kilwa Masoko, about 300 kilometres south of Dar es Salaam. Here, one must purchase a government permit from the Cultural Centre, which allows access to the protected area. It’s also worth hiring a guide to lead you through the island’s knotty pathways and share the history of the individual structures, then head to the beach and choose a traditional dhow for the one-mile voyage to the island. There can

be few arrivals more enchanting than entering the island in the same sort of vessel as the Persians who transformed Kilwa into a gem.

What’s the best way to see Kilwa Kisiwani World Heritage Site? According to TripAdvisor, these are the best ways to experience Kilwa Kisiwani World Heritage Site: 3 DAYS GOMBE STREAM CHIMPS SAFARI (From UGX 9,259,259) 8 Days, 7 Nights - Mikumi National Park, Selous Game Reserve & Town of Kilwa (From UGX 12,333,333)

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DESTINATION SOUTH AFRICA

QUIRKYroadside dining ROLLING hills & BREACHING whales With 11 official languages, South Africa is among the most culturally diverse countries in Africa. Mark Eveleigh hits the highway with his family on a 2000km road trip around South Africa.

t is early morning and I’m filling up our 4x4 rental at a fuel station near Durban. The attendant hands me a frosty bottle of Stoney ginger beer – so spicy that it makes my nose tingle – and asks me where I’m headed. “Eish! It’s a long, long way to Cape Town,” he smiles. “But you’re going to see many, many wonderful things.” He’s right. By mid-morning we’re driving through a chain of Zulu communities with their little rondavels (round houses) painted in pretty pastel hues. The precious Nguni tribal cattle graze out on the plains, with their lyre shaped horns glinting in the sunlight. My girlfriend Narina, who is South African, points out that the Zulus have scores of names for the distinctive markings on their cattle. There’s pure poetry in names that translate as ‘the maiden who lifts her skirts and walks in a hurry’ or ‘flight of the egrets at sunset’. Our first stop is at a spot that is simply known as ‘The Capture Site’. An intriguing piece of modern-art sculpture

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marks the spot where Nelson Mandela was captured – starting his 27-year incarceration but also setting in motion the sequence of events that would lead to the unification of this great country. Throughout the afternoon we drive through the countryside, which feels strangely familiar to my parents who are travelling with us on this trip. It’s been almost 20 years since I lived in England but the long sweeping valleys and rolling grasslands of the KwaZuluNatal Midlands still feel intensely familiar. This pretty area has become a favourite weekend escape for South Africans, and an attractive art, craft and gastronomy route called the Midlands Meander has developed. About sunset, I steer the car onto a tree-shaded dirt-track that leads down to a wonderfully secluded lakeside bungalow at Hartford House (www. hartford.co.za). This is the only worldclass hotel on a world-class racehorse stud in the world. (Its celebrated guests include the stallions of the rulers of Dubai).

A view of Rorke’s Drift Battlefield. The heroism shown (by warriors on both sides) during the long hours of that horrific night became the stuff of legend.

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DESTINATION SOUTH AFRICA Along with some wonderful hotels and lodges, the Midlands Meander offers what must be some of the quirkiest roadside dining in the world: The Farmer’s Daughter is a charmingly kitsch little cottage eatery in Lion’s River that offers irresistible Dutch-origin Afrikaans specialties like regmaaker (literally ‘right maker’) pickme-up breakfasts. Chocolate Heaven is a big hit with kids who are thrilled by the chance to eat a mind-boggling assortment of ingredients (fruit, licorice, pickled onions, jellies, even chilli peppers) all dipped in Belgian chocolate. Padstal, literally food-stalls of all sorts, have become a celebrated South African tradition. Originally padstal were simply farm-stalls that were set up along the roadside to sell traditional Afrikaans produce to passers-by. Our discovery of the padstal tradition adds a new spice (and countless calories) to the road-trip as we nibble on delicious kudu and ostrich biltong, apple pie, cookies and homemade fudge, as the kilometres click past. For the next couple of days, we continue driving down the hinterland between the mountains of Lesotho and the Wild Coast before we detour towards Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa’s third biggest national park. As the name might suggest, the park is the best place in the entire country to see vast herds of pachyderms (with a total population of around 600). There are many legends surrounding these elephants and their mysterious social lives. Old bushmen and hunters used to bring back tales of mass reunions that took place as if organised through some telepathic force. That afternoon, we sit in the car at a waterhole for several hours, munching kudu biltong and watching one of these legendary elephant meetings: all afternoon, elephants trudge out of the bushveld in small family groups until we count a vast congregation of more than 300 elephants around the waterhole. There are two types of travellers: those who prefer the picture-perfect pretty landscapes of the Garden Route, and those who are attracted more by the rugged, hauntingly desolate expanses of the Karoo Desert. We take an in-car vote and decide unanimously that we are definitely in the second group. My father takes a turn at the wheel, we tune the entertainment system to the haunting rhythm of South African rock ballads by Rodriguez, and roll along the shimmering desert highways towards the Karoo’s artistic centre at Nieu Bethesda, which has become known as one of South Africa’s offbeat cultural capitals. My friend Peter Frost, a South African editor and motoring journalist, had advised us not to miss Nieu-Bethesda under any circumstances: “The town defies easy definition,” he’d said, “It’s balm for the soul. It’s about no streetlights – a killer light-show on a clear night – and the sheer remoteness of it all.” Peter had fallen so deeply in love with the town that he wrote Nieu-Bethesda: A Short Guide to a Little Great Karoo Town. ‘The famous Owl House, artist Helen Martins’ tiny home and yard is an ode to creativity,’ he said. ‘The Karoo Lamb Restaurant serves an excellent potjie stew and there’s artisan beer at the Two Goats Brewery.’ Another reason we had come to Nieu-Bethesda, however, was to meet the owner of Auntie Evelyne’s Eating Place, a humble eatery in a private house about a mile from the town centre. “I was born here but moved away to work as a kitchen help on a farm when I was still young,” Auntie Evelyn told us that evening as we tucked into succulent Karoo lamb, sweet potatoes, shredded carrot and maize mash. “I still mostly cook boerekos (farm-food) .” Tourists and travellers eat in the little restaurant and this hardworking and generous woman puts her profits to good use by feeding up to a hundred hungry people each day at the little soup kitchen in the yard. Before we leave, Auntie Evelyn gives me the recipe for her homemade ginger beer (so spicy it makes your nose tingle)…but since she only knows how to make it in 20L batches, I lose track of the figures.

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PADSTAL, LITERALLY FOOD-STALLS OF ALL SORTS, HAVE BECOME A CELEBRATED

SOUTH AFRICAN TRADITION.

ORIGINALLY PADSTAL WERE SIMPLY FARMSTALLS THAT WERE SET UP ALONG THE ROADSIDE TO SELL TRADITIONAL AFRIKAANS PRODUCE TO PASSERS-BY.

DESTINATION SOUTH AFRICA

Here, the artist Helen Martins made her home and the house she lived in has become a place of homage for hundreds of visitors who travel the winding country roads into what still feels like a dusty frontier town. By sunrise the next morning, we are already hauling a cloud of golden dust down the dirt-track backroads out of town. The Karoo is still a tough area to survive in and as we drive along the N9 highway, it is only the windmills mounted above the boreholes that alert us to the location of rare homesteads and sheep-farms. By midday, I am winding cautiously down a dirt track into Prince Alfred’s Pass. A mournful sign reads ‘Convict Graves’ (commemorating the resting place of some of the labourers who carved this road in 1866) and another is so intriguing that I have to screech the car to a halt: ‘Hot Beer, Lousy Food, Bad Service - Welcome to Angie’s G Spot,’ it says. At this idyllic spot on the banks of a tumbling river, Angie Beaumont and her husband Harold have built a little homestead – complete with accommodation, bar and restaurant – that is nothing short of a little patch of South African paradise. Part of their living quarters is made up of an old 1952 bus that is built into the wall, and the property is fully self-sufficient. Harold even shoots his own venison with a crossbow while Angie bakes bread on the old wood-fired AGA cooker. Skins and horns decorate The Pit Stop Bar and whisky is served out of the rear end of a stuffed reedbuck. The sparkling riverbed makes the best possible Jacuzzi during the heat of the day, and

There are two types of travellers: those who prefer the picture-perfect pretty landscapes of the Garden Route, and those who are attracted more by the rugged, hauntingly desolate expanses of the Karoo Desert.

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DESTINATION SOUTH AFRICA

Southern right whales undertake one of the biggest annual migrations of the animal kingdom – travelling from the Antarctica to Australia – and, along the way, up to 120 of these giant mammals break the journey to spend months at a time calving in Hermanus Bay, about 115km southeast of Cape Town.

in the evening, you can just lie back on the banks and watch an unparalleled lightshow of Southern Hemisphere stars. By sunset the next day, we feel that we have travelled a very long way from the desert. Through the sea-spray splashed windows of Birkenhead House Hotel (www.birkenheadhouse.com), we can see dozens of whales breaching and rolling in the breakers. Southern right whales undertake one of the biggest annual migrations of the animal kingdom travelling from the Antarctica to Australia – and, along the way, up to 120 of these giant mammals break the journey to spend months at a time calving in Hermanus Bay, about 115km southeast of Cape Town. I can see why anyone might want to stay longer on this spellbindingly attractive coastline, but we are fast coming to the end of our own little migration. We have already reached the southern tip of the African continent and the great rearing plateau of Table Mountain beckons us from just a few hours closer to the setting sun.

DURBAN Durban’s benign sub-tropical weather makes it an ideal beach holiday area (escaping the muggy heat of Mozambique to the north), drawing thousands of visitors during weekends and public holidays. There are countless big hotels here but a wonderful little boutique hotel called Acorn B&B (www.acornbandb.co.za) makes for a wonderfully relaxing little hidden retreat that, with its safari ambience, also makes the perfect introduction to your African holiday. At the southern end of the beach, you will find a great little bar called Moyo, and the entertainment complex of Ushaka with a shopping mall, its Wet and Wild water-rides (best in Africa), and Ushaka Marine World aquarium.

RORKE’S DRIFT BATTLEFIELD The simple little museum at Rorke’s Drift, South Africa’s most famous battlefield, gives a good insight into what happened when 3000 Zulu warriors swept upon the tiny reserve force of 150 British soldiers. The heroism shown (by warriors on both sides) during the long hours of that horrific night became the stuff of legend and when the dust cleared, the survivors were left defending an area that had shrunk to half the size of a tennis court. Be sure to stay at Rorke’s Drift Hotel (www.rorkesdrifthotel.com) where the owner, retired Irish Guards Major Charles Aikenhead, is sure to regale you with stories from those days of heroism and bloodshed that could have been part of a Boys Own Adventure book.

CAPE TOWN African sunlight glints on white-washed Cape Dutch buildings – the historical treasures of the ancient trading settlement that is still known to many South Africans as The Mother City. A brisk wind – ‘the Cape Doctor’ – drapes a blanket of cloud over the looming mass of Table Mountain. On days like this, in one of the world’s most beautiful cities, it is always astounding that anyone ever thought to label sun-blessed Africa as the ‘Dark Continent’. The One & Only (www.oneandonlycapetown.com) is Cape Town’s finest urban hotel and from the upper balconies, it offers a classic view of the Table Mountain.

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DESTINATION LONDON

MUCKING ABOUT IN

MAYFAIR

From its early days as a horse market and slum, Mayfair has risen to the best address in London. Mark Eveleigh checks into the Athenaeum Hotel, home to celebrities, and explores the quaint alleyways of the British capital’s chicest quarter.

“L

egend has it that Beau Brummel was such a dandy that he polished his boots with champagne froth,” our guide tells us as we stand in front of a terraced townhouse in Mayfair on an unexpectedly crisp and bright English spring day. I crane my neck up at a plaque high on the old brick wall: ‘Beau Brummel, Leader of Fashion, lived here’ it says. “He was such an incredible bon viveur,” the guide continues, “He used to get his servants to carry him from inside his house to the lobby of his gentleman’s club so that he wouldn’t have to soil his boots on the mucky streets of Mayfair.” These days, it is hard to imagine anything mucky in Mayfair. A century and a half after Brummel lived here, it is still the most fashionable residential area in London. Richard Roques is a playwright and guide who has been leading walks around London for more than 20 years. Better known by his working name Richard III, Roques has acquired a wealth of quirky knowledge that brings the history of one of the world’s most colourful cities to life. “Mayfair was named after an agricultural fair that was held here in the 1700s,” he had told us when we met him outside Green Park tube station for the

THESE DAYS, IT IS HARD TO IMAGINE ANYTHING MUCKY IN MAYFAIR. A CENTURY AND A HALF AFTER BRUMMEL LIVED HERE, IT IS STILL THE MOST FASHIONABLE RESIDENTIAL AREA IN LONDON.

start of our walk. “Along with shepherds and horse traders, it attracted countless vagabonds, cut-throats, thieves and prostitutes. Finally, the mayor banned the fair and turned the grubby Mayfair grounds into what would become one of the world’s most expensive places to live.” If you just want to park your car in Mayfair, it will cost you £33 (USD50) for 24 hours but if you actually want to live here, the cheapest place you might find – a converted stable in Hays Mews for

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DESTINATION LONDON example – is likely to set you back about £3 million (USD4.6m). If that’s just small change to you, then something a bit more spacious like ‘The In and Out Club’ – abandoned for the last 15 years but ripe for some renovation, recently sold for £115 million (US$176m), might take your fancy. The streets of Mayfair are peppered with the names of the rich and famous who once lived here, and the Ferraris, Aston Martins and Maseratis that make up the average Mayfair traffic jam betray the presence of those who still do. Jimi Hendrix claimed to be haunted by the spirit of George Frideric Handel after he moved next door to the Brook Street house in which the composer had died 200 years before. Queen Elizabeth herself was born in a house that is now a Bentley showroom (17, Bruton St), and Charles Rolls worked nearby on a little-known manufacturing project that would later become Rolls Royce. Perhaps Mayfair has always been most desirable for its green areas. The bay window of my Athenaeum Hotel suite looks across Piccadilly (with its bellowing red double-decker buses) to the lush gardens of the Green Park (scene of a rebellion in 1554 and private hunting grounds for the king thereafter). Beyond the hotel lobby, with the elegant doorman tipping his top-hat, I can walk just a few minutes east to the sprawling lawns and lakes of Regent’s Park. Scratch the polished surface of Mayfair’s glitz and glamour and you will uncover a dark and grizzly history. On the north side of Regent’s Park, there’s an underground river called the Tyburn and it was here that some of London’s gruesome moments were recorded. The gallows known as the Tyburn Tree (the spot is marked on a traffic island near Marble Arch) was London’s most famous public execution spot. Up to 24 people could be hanged at a time and on the way to the hanging trees the condemned men and women were allowed to stop for one last drink – which, with gallows-humour, was known as ‘one for the Tyburn Road’.

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Shopping in Mayfair is as posh as it gets, with New Bond Street’s high-fashion designer stores; the Victorian-era Royal and Burlington shopping arcades; luxury perfumers; jewellery shops; and the bespoke tailors on Savile Row.

These days, a pint for the Tyburn Road will cost you about £5. There’s not much in Mayfair that is cheap: the chic butcher shop here sells prime beef steak for £60/kg (if you order wagyu beef it will set you back £135/kg). Mr Patel owns a little corner shop at 24 Down Street. It is the sort of humble little grocery store you’ll find allover the city but which seems delightfully out of place – almost rebellious – next to the Athenaeum. “I’ve been here for 27 years. I think the people who live and work here like the feeling that there’s a little place remaining that has not been bought up as a bistro or a designer dressmaker,” Patel tells me. Even in this property, there’s more than meets the eye: “Under this building, there’s an abandoned tube station,” he explains. “It was only opened for a few years – turned out that there weren’t many people in Mayfair who used public transport. Winston Churchill slept under my shop during the wartime bombings.” Like Beau Brummel – that ‘leader of fashion’ – Mayfair has seen many changes of fortune. Brummel had the bad sense to have a public dispute with the king himself and ended his days in poverty in a lunatic asylum in Europe. No doubt he died pining for a chance to set his boots once more in the mucky lanes of Mayfair.

DESTINATION LONDON PLACE TO STAY The Athenaeum Hotel (www.athenaeumhotel.com / Tel: +44 20 7499 3464) is a majestic 5-Star Mayfair hotel overlooking Green Park. The Hollywood Reporter once wrote that ‘there are more movie stars to be seen in London’s Athenaeum Hotel than in the Polo Lounge of the Beverley Hills Hotel.’ Steven Spielberg even edited ET, First Encounters and Indiana Jones in an edit suite that he installed in the adjoining apartment to his own. A favourite with countless celebrities today, the historical building dates back to 1850 and the extravagant interior was described by Charles Dickens. Room rates are from £260 (USD398) per night. The Athenaeum’s restaurant is hard to beat and the Whisky Bar is stocked with the largest selection of whiskies of any hotel in London (300+ varieties).

WALKING TOURS London Walks (www.walks.com / Tel: +44 20 7624 3978) offers a mind-boggling variety of tours around the city priced at just £9 (USD14) per adult. Children under 15 aren’t charged. Their Old Mayfair tour is described as ‘the champagne & caviar of London walks’ and is guided by Richard IIIz, who is one of London’s most fascinating guides. His Ghosts, Gaslight and Guinness night walk around ‘the most haunted city in the world’ is a deliciously spine-tingling experience that gives a unique insight into London’s dramatic history.

PUBS History is everywhere in old Mayfair - in the little cobbled square of Shepherds Market, and among the tailors of Savile Row, or the stylish gentlemen’s shoe-shops and purveyors of vintage watches in Burlington Arcade. Most of all, you find it in some of the oldest pubs in London. The Coach and Horses is the oldest in Mayfair (established in 1744) and still has a model coach swinging as a reminder of the days when few people could read. The Punch Bowl at 41 Farm Street is now owned by film director Guy Ritchie but has been serving punch to ‘politicians and military gentlemen’ since 1750.

BUS TOUR & BOAT TOUR Even for Londoners, The Big Bus Company (www.bigbustours.

com) offers a second-storey viewpoint of the city that is wholly different from the street-level view for £26 (USD40). Along with the world’s most knowledgeable taxi drivers, London boasts some of the most entertaining guides with the quirkiest outlooks. The bus tour is best combined with a free boat cruise between Westminster and Tower Bridge, offering an otherwise impossible look at the famous Traitor’s Gate and the premonitory Bronze Lions’ heads in the wharf. “Londoners say that if the lions are drinking, then London will be sinking,” quips Jack Murphy, an excellent guide on the City Cruise, “But if the lions get ducked, then London is well and truly…flooded.”

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DESTINATION GUANGZHOU

WHERE OLD & NEW CHINA

COLLIDE

ituated on the Pearl River, which cuts a lazy swathe through the city, Guangzhou is the capital of Guangdong Province. A buzzing metropolis that’s home to ancient temples and shimmering skyscrapers, the city features avant-garde architecture like the iconic 600-metre-tall sky piercing Canton Tower, once the tallest building in the world. Thanks to a subtropical climate, Guangzhou is blessed with flowers all year round, earning itself the nickname, ‘City of Flowers’. It is famous for China’s largest trade fair, the Canton Fair, and is a shopper’s paradise. From luxury labels at TaiKoo Hui and CTF Finance Centre Mall, to local souvenirs and handicrafts along Shangxiajiu Street, Guangzhou is an excellent shopping destination. In the next edition of Ng’aali, we delve more into what makes this city special.

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DESTINATION GUANGZHOU

Cultural heritage, classical architectural style and modern skyscrapers exist together in perfect harmony

DESTINATION MUMBAI

THE GATEWAY OF INDIA

MUMBAI

DESTINATION MUMBAI

Full of dreamers and labourers, stars and artists, fisherfolk and crorepatis (millionaires), Mumbai is home to India’s most prolific film industry - Bollywood, some of Asia’s biggest slums (as well as the world’s most expensive home), and the largest tropical forest in an urban zone. It is India’s financial powerhouse, fashion epicentre and a pulse point of religious tension. The Gateway of India, pictured, is an arch-monument built in the early 20th Century in the city of Mumbai, in the Indian state of Maharashtra. The gateway is also the monument from where the last British troops left India in 1948, following Indian independence. It was later used as a symbolic ceremonial entrance to India for Viceroys and the new Governors of Bombay, and served to allow entry and access to India. It overlooks the Arabian Sea and has been referred to as the Taj Mahal of Mumbai. It is the city’s top tourist attraction.

DESTINATION ZIMBABWE

ZIMBABWE’S

LAND OF

GIANTS

Zimbabwe’s Matabeleland is once again gaining a reputation as one of the most spellbindingly beautiful regions on the African continent. Within a relatively short distance, you find Victoria Falls, the pretty city of Bulawayo, the natural sculptures and ancient rock-art of Matobo Zimbabwe, and the spellbinding immensity of Hwange National Park. Words and pictures by Mark Eveleigh

here are few things that are more unpredictable than a 14-year-old in the throes of a really serious tempertantrum. It’s even more intimidating when that fiery teenager stands two metres tall and outweighs you by a couple of tonnes. I am sat nervously in an open Land Rover, trying to appear unfazed under a shower of splintering twigs as an adolescent elephant threatens to hit me over the head with a branch that is about as thick as my leg. As the frenzied teenager blurts out a last shrill trumpetcall and stomps off after the rest of the herd, I hear the quietly philosophical voice of my guide: “The cheekiest elephants are often just like people,” he says thoughtfully. “The more noise they make, the more certain you can be that they’re very unlikely to actually do anything.”

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Hwange is home to one of the largest elephant populations in Africa, with an estimated 44,000 pachyderms

Robert Chadyendia works at Somalisa Expeditions Camp and, like all the highly-trained guides in this part of Zimbabwe, he has developed attuned insight into pachyderm psychology. In Hwange National Park, the biggest protected area in Zimbabwe, you can enjoy the truly humbling experience of travelling through an area where elephants outnumber international tourists by around 200 to one. On my first evening at Hwange, I’d sat in the main lodge at Nehimba Camp, silently nursing a gin-and-tonic while a blustering herd of elephants muscled in on the swimming pool like an oversized gang of local bullies taking over the bar. “This pool was actually built for the use of human visitors,” laughed Ty Hurst, Nehimba’s head guide - as the pachyderms guzzled at the pool. “At least that was the plan. But the elephants enjoy the cool, clean water from the tiled pool even more than they do the pump-filled waterhole; every night they drink it dry.” Hwange’s estimated 46,000 elephants (more than double Kenya’s elephant population) could potentially drink the equivalent of three olympic-size swimming pools each day, yet this arid park is an extension of the almost waterless Kalahari Desert. Until permanent water was introduced via boreholes in 1928, Wankie (as it was known then) was just part of a great migration route, with vast elephant herds passing through to get to the great silver snake of the Zambezi.

DESTINATION ZIMBABWE While driving through the taunting mirages, swirling dust-devils and shrinking waterholes of Hwange, it can be hard to imagine that less than 100km from the park’s northern boundary are the perpetually booming cascades of Victoria Falls. Known poetically to locals as Mosi-oa-Tunya (‘the smoke that thunders’), the falls are one of the most dramatic wonders of our planet. While the sleepy city of Harare is Zimbabwe’s capital, there is little doubt that the booming tourist town of Victoria Falls (known as Africa’s adrenalin sports capital) is the premier tourist attraction in a country that has more than its share of stunning locations. Lake Kariba (created when a dam was built across the lower Zambezi in the 1960s) is a wonderfully relaxing waterbased safari location. Further downriver, you find Mana Pools National Park, less than a sixth the size of gigantic Hwange yet world-famous as one of the best wildlife havens in Africa. Along with its natural riches, Zimbabwe also boasts countless historical and artistic gems. Long before explorer David Livingstone first set eyes on the Zambezi, this was the centre of one of the continent’s greatest empires and during the Middle Ages, the city that is now known only as Great Zimbabwe Ruins (the country’s name

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Above: The magnificent Victoria Falls, known as Mosi-oa-Tunya (‘the smoke that thunders’) Below: British Imperialist Cecil J. Rhodes’ grave in Matobo National Park

literally means ‘Houses of Stone’) was already about a quarter the size of London. As I drove out of Bulawayo one morning in a rental car, Zimbabwe’s second-biggest city seemed to doze under a blanket of mauve jacaranda blossoms. I made a short detour via Khami Ruins National Monument (also a UNESCO site, but less visited than Great Zimbabwe) but even this two-kilometre sprawl of 500-year-old stone bulwarks and palace walls is relatively a recent treasure in a region whose tangible history dates infinitely further back than this. From Khami, I made the 30-kilometre drive southwards to the rock koppies and caves of Matobo Hills, where I gazed upon Picasso-esque hunting scenes daubed by some long-forgotten artist who had stood on the same spot more than 10,000 years ago. According to UNESCO, archeological findings around this area constitute ‘evidence that Matobo Hills have been occupied for at least 500,000 years’. Driving through this breathtakingly beautiful area, with the afternoon sun throwing surreal shadows across what locals named the ‘Bald Heads’, it was easy to see why this landscape had captivated man’s artistic yearnings almost since the beginning of time. Zimbabwe has long been known as one of Africa’s most beautiful countries, and after emerging from troubled times, the country is now reclaiming its rightful place as one of the continent’s tourism highlights. For the moment, wilderness areas like Mana Pools, Gonarezhou and Hwange remain secrets that are known only to a few; places where you are still able to enjoy that rare feeling of being almost alone in the immensity of the African bush. In Hwange, however, the feeling of solitude is frequently overwhelmed by the feeling that you are travelling through a land of giants. Hwange is the domain not only of vast

DESTINATION ZIMBABWE elephant herds but also of a very healthy population of big cats. Early one morning, Robert Chadyendia eases the Land Rover into the pretty acacia forest at the back of Somalisa Camp, passing slowly through what appears to be a very nervous elephant herd. “We particularly watch out for herds with babies and elephants without tusks,” he explains quietly over his shoulder. “Decades of hunting took most of the big tuskers out of the gene pool and about ten percent of the elephants here are born tusk-less. But they’re cheekier, as if to compensate. It’s as if they hope that a simple bad attitude and lots of noise will compensate for the fact that they lack the big guns.” Perhaps these elephants had reason to be defensive. We had heard lions roaring early in the morning and Hwange’s ‘super-prides’ (numbering more than 20 cats and even up to 33, each) are famous for hunting juvenile elephants. While this herd, with babies to care for, might have been very keen to avoid the local pride, Robert was doing his best to arrange a successful rendezvous for me with Hwange’s super-predators. We headed toward the rolling grassland of Ngweshla Pan - meaning

‘place of the leopard’. We had seen two leopards in the teak forest near here in the last couple of days. Now only a pair of jackals and a lone hyena snickered at the fringe of the cracked pans and we watched unsuccessfully for any signs of nervousness among the massed herds of zebra, wildebeest, waterbuck, impala, giraffe and roan antelope. We were driving across a scrubby hillside near Makalolo Pans when we came across a jittery herd of kudu on the edge of a mopane forest. And, just a couple of hundred metres down the dirt-track, we realised that their jitteriness was well-motivated. I sat as if frozen in the back of the Land Rover as the lions walked down the track directly towards us. I counted 12 lionesses and cringed behind my lens as the click of the Nikon’s shutter drew their intense amber eyes into mine. That night I lay in bed listening to the local pride roaring out on the plains. Somewhere behind my tent, another belligerent elephant bellowed, and suddenly it struck me as highly paradoxical that during a week in an area that receives very low visitor numbers, I seemed to have spent a lot of time feeling delightfully outnumbered.

WHERE TO STAY IN HWANGE Somalisa Expeditions (africanbushcamps.com) is one of Hwange’s premier luxury camps and boasts some of the country’s best guides and extremely stylish tented accommodation from USD420 per person per night. The evocative Davison’s Camp (wilderness-safaris.com) – near the spot where the park was founded in 1928 – offers an unforgettable slice of Hwange pioneering history from USD 380per person per night. Nehimba Lodge (imvelosafarilodges.com) has nine spacious chalets arranged around a wildlife-packed waterhole from USD561pppn and Imvelo’s new Stimela Star overnight sleeper service now runs between Victoria Falls and Hwange National Park, offering an irresistible touch of vintage luxury. The Hide (thehide.com) might make you rethink the definition of ‘tented accommodation’ with its 10 immensely spacious canvas suites from USD362pppn. These rates all include meals, drinks, park fees and gamedrives but for a budget, self-drive option, try Tuskers Camp Site (amalindacollection. com), which offers simple camping space and amenities from USD14pppn (plus USD18 park fees per day).

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ANIMAL KINGDOM

he wild dog is one of the world’s most endangered mammals. As human populations expand, leading to agriculture, settlements, and roads, wild dogs are losing the spaces in which they were once able to roam freely. The African wild dog is the largest indigenous canine in Africa. Also sometimes called the hunting dog or African painted dog — it has a colourful, patchy coat; large bat-like ears; and a bushy tail with a white tip that may serve as a flag to keep the pack in contact while hunting. They have only four toes per foot, unlike other dogs which have five toes on their forefeet. No two wild dogs are marked exactly the same, making it easy to identify individuals.

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The African wild dog has very strong social bonds, stronger than those of sympatric lions and spotted hyenas; thus, solitary living and hunting are extremely rare in the species. They live in packs of two to 27 adults and yearling pups, dominated by a monogamous breeding pair. The species differs from most other social animals because males remain in the natal pack, while females disperse (a pattern also found in primates such as gorillas, chimpanzees, and red colobuses). African wild dog populations in East Africa appear to have no fixed breeding season. The African wild dog produces more pups than any other canid, with litters containing around six to 16 pups, so a single female can produce enough young to form a new pack every year. Because the amount

of food necessary to feed more than two litters would be impossible to acquire by the average pack, breeding is strictly limited to the dominant female, which may kill the pups of subordinates. After giving birth, the mother stays close to the pups in the den, while the rest of the pack hunts and feeds her. She typically drives away pack members approaching the pups until they are old enough to eat solid food at three to four weeks of age. The pups leave the den around the age of three weeks and are suckled outside. They are weaned at the age of five weeks, when they are fed regurgitated meat by the

ANIMAL KINGDOM

other pack members. Both males and females are known to babysit. At seven weeks, the pups begin to take on an adult appearance, and once they reach the age of eight to 10 weeks, the pack abandons the den and the young follow the adults during hunts. The youngest pack members are permitted to eat first on kills, a privilege which ends once they become yearlings. On the whole, the dogs are surprisingly non-aggressive; for example, they do not fight over food but instead beg to indicate their wish to eat. Sneeze communication and “voting” African wild dog populations have been observed “rallying” before they set out to hunt. Not every rally results in a departure, but departure becomes more likely when more individual dogs “sneeze”. These sneezes are characterised by a short, sharp exhale through the nostrils. When members of dominant mating pairs sneeze first, the group is much more likely to depart. If a dominant dog initiates, around three sneezes guarantee departure. When less dominant dogs sneeze first, if enough others also sneeze (about 10), then the group will go hunting. Researchers assert that wild dogs in Botswana, “use a specific vocalisation (the sneeze) along with a variable quorum response mechanism in the decision-making process [to go hunting at a particular moment]”. Even when their leader – always female – dies, they vote for her successor with whoops and hoots. African wild dogs were once found across the African continent but their populations have declined due to loss of habitat and threats from farmers who fear for their livestock. There were reported sightings of the African dog in Uganda in 2009, all in and around Kidepo Valley National Park, but none were detected in the carnivore survey made by Wildlife Conservation Society staff the same year. It is thought that this species is not resident in Uganda. Currently, the largest numbers are found in Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Kenya, Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, and Namibia.

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CELEBRITY PROFILE

CHIMAMANDA NGOZI: A feminist larger than life Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie is one of the most famous African women alive today. Not arguably, not maybe: the 43-year-old is nothing short of a phenomenon.

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himamanda Ngozi Adichie, born 15th September 1977, is a Nigerian writer whose works range from novels to short stories to nonfiction. She was described in The Times Literary Supplement as “the most prominent” of a “procession of critically acclaimed young anglophone authors (which) is succeeding in attracting a new generation of readers to African literature”, particularly in her second home, the United States. A reknowned feminist, she has written several international bestseller novels, most notably Purple Hibiscus (2003), Half of a Yellow Sun (2006), Americanah (2013), the short story collection, The Thing Around Your Neck (2009), and Dear Ijeawele (2017). Her latest feminist manual, We Should All Be Feminists: The Desk Diary 2021, will inspire women to aim for the sky. Adichie was born in Enugu, Nigeria, into an Igbo family. She grew up on the campus of the University of Nigeria, Nsukka, where her father, James Nwoye Adichie, was a professor of Statistics. Her mother, Grace Ifeoma, was the university’s first female Registrar. Her family’s ancestral village is in Abba in Anambra State. The fifth of six children, she was a voracious reader from a young age, and found Things Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe transformative. Adichie completed her secondary education at the University of Nigeria Secondary School, Nsukka, where she received several academic prizes. She studied

CELEBRITY PROFILE medicine and pharmacy at the University of Nigeria for a year and a half. During this period, she edited The Compass, a magazine run by the university’s Catholic medical students. In 1997, aged 19, she left for the U.S. to continue her education at Drexel University in Philadelphia. She soon transferred to Eastern Connecticut State University to be near her sister Uche, who had a medical practice in Coventry. Growing up in Nigeria, she was not used to being identified by the colour of her skin, but this suddenly changed. As a black African in America, Adichie was suddenly confronted with what it meant to be a person of colour. She writes about this in her novel Americanah, for which she won the 2013 U.S. National Book Critics Circle Award for fiction. Once settled in at University, she started writing her first novel, Purple Hibiscus, which garnered the Commonwealth Writers’ Prize in 2005 for Best First Book (Africa) and that year’s Commonwealth Writers’ Prize for Best First Book. She also wrote several short stories about the Nigerian Biafra conflict, which would become the subject of her highly successful novel Half of a Yellow Sun (2006), which was adapted for film and starred Chiwetel Ejiofor and Thandie Newton. In November 2020, Half of a Yellow Sun was voted by the public to be the best book to have won the Women’s Prize for Fiction in its 25-year history. Adichie was named one of TIME Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People in the World in 2015, and in 2017, Fortune Magazine named her one of the World’s 50 Greatest Leaders. Her essay, We Should All Be Feminists, adapted from her 2013 TEDx talk, has remained on the bestseller lists, particularly in Sweden, where in 2015 it was distributed to every 16-year-old highschool student in the land. Dear Ijeawele, published in March 2017, is a 9,000-word manifesto that features fifteen invaluable suggestions - direct, wryly funny, and perceptive - for how to empower a daughter to become a strong, independent woman. The book had

its origins in a personal email Adichie wrote to a friend who had asked for advice about how to raise her daughter as a feminist. Adichie divides her time between the U.S. and Nigeria, where she leads an annual creative writing workshop. Much of the year, she lives in Baltimore with her Nigerian-American husband, Dr Ivara Esege. In 2016, they had a daughter, whose pregnancy, birthdate and name Adichie refused to reveal, citing the scrutiny that comes with celebrity pregnancy. After their baby was born, it was Dr Ivara who stayed home to look after the child for the first six months. Afterward, the two shared a fifty-fifty responsibility in raising their daughter, in a typical show of gender equality. Having a baby made her think differently about her own parents, particularly her mother. Grace Adichie, who had six children and worked her way up from being a university administrator to the registrar, taught her daughter to love fashion as well as books, and was a “very cool mum” whom she idolised as a child. However, like most cheeky young adults, Adichie went through a rebellious phase with her mother. Now, she looks at her daughter and is awed at Mrs Adichie’s mothering prowess. Sadly, in June 2020, Adichie’s world stopped when she lost her beloved father and rock. Professor Adichie passed on at the age of 88. “Because I loved my father so much, so fiercely, so tenderly, I always at the back of my mind feared this day. But he was in good health. I thought we had time. I thought it wasn’t yet time. I have come undone. I have screamed, shouted, rolled on the floor, pounded things. I have shut down parts of myself,” she wrote in one of her tributes to him. Her father was Nigeria’s first professor of Statistics. He studied Mathematics at Ibadan and got his PhD in Statistics from the University of Carlifornia Berkeley, returning to Nigeria shortly before the Biafran War. He was a titled Igbo man – Odelu Ora Abba – deeply committed to his hometown.

On February 12th, 2021, Adichie announced her new powerful essay on loss and grief. ‘Notes on Grief’ is at once a tribute to a long life of grace and wisdom, the story of a daughter’s fierce love for a parent, and a revealing examination of the layers of loss and the nature of grief.” She is one of the most defining and stirring voices of our time - a beacon of hope, who maintains that women can prevail against all odds and will go to any lengths to prove this. And as her motto says: ‘It’s not your job to be likeable. It’s your job to be yourself.’

DEGREES AND HONOURS Aside from bestselling books, Adichie is a very high achiever. She has a Bachelor’s degree from Eastern Connecticut State University with the distinction of summa cum laude in 2001; a Master’s Degree in Creative Writing from Johns Hopkins University; a Master of Arts degree in African History from Yale University; a Hodder fellowship at Princeton University for the 2005-2006 academic year; a fellowship at the Radcliffe Institute of Harvard University 2011-2012; a MacArthur Fellowship n 2008; an honorary Doctorate of Humane Letters, honoris causa, by Johns Hopkins University in 2016; a Doctorate of Humane Letters, honoris causa, by Haverford College and The University of Edinburgh in 2017; an honorary Doctorate of Humane Letters from Amherst College in 2018; and an honorary Doctorate honoris causa, from the Université de Fribourg, Switzerland, in 2019.

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CUISINE

Kenyan food is as diverse as the people who prepare it. While there are some cultural staples like grains, greens and tubers, the rest of the country’s cuisine draws from many different flavour profiles. Here are some of the most popular dishes from Kenya.

Githeri is a one-pot meal made up of corn and any kind of bean. It can be eaten plain or with onions, tomatoes, and seasonings of your choice. It is very easy to make and is one of Kenya’s nourishing staples.

Ugali is the quintessential Kenyan staple, made by adding cornmeal to boiling water and mingling it until it turns into a firm block of cornmeal. For many Kenyans, ugali along with steamed vegetables and meat or saucy stew is the best meal.

Nyama Choma is the closest thing that Kenya has to a national dish. Literally translated as ‘burned meat,’ this is a local delicacy of chicken, beef or goat slowcooked over hot coals until the meat is so tender that it melts in your mouth. The meat is often seasoned with salt and left to cook in its own juices.

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Sukuma Wiki: One of the most popular vegetable Kenyan dishes is sukuma wiki (known as collard greens or a form of kale in English). It is often cooked in oil with a few diced tomatoes, onions, and flavoured with a sprinkle of mchuzi mix (a Kenyan food flavouring) or stock cubes.

CUISINE

Chai (Kenyan style tea): Kenyan coffee is one of the more famous varieties on earth, yet it is tea that is the popular hot drink of choice for many locals. Kenyan tea is brewed dark, mixed with plenty of whole fat milk, and sweetened with a few heaped tablespoons of sugar.

Irio (Mashed Peas and Potato Mix) was a Kikuyu staple that spread throughout the country. Green peas and Irish potatoes are boiled and mashed together before kernels of maize (corn) are added to give the mash some extra starch and texture.

Kachumbari: The simple formula of diced tomatoes, onions, chilli peppers, cilantro, and sometimes avocado, is a natural power combination of vegetables that cultures all the way from Mexico to Kenya have discovered. It can be served as a salad alongside grilled meats, as a condiment, a relish, or an appetiser.

Chapati: These are soft, fluffy, small round and flat breads that are made from rolled out dough that is then fried on a cooking pan over medium heat until brownish and crispy but still soft inside. Best served with meat stews or tea.

Mandazi: This is a sweet, sugar-coated doughnut most often infused with delicious hints of cardamom and sweet coconut milk. They can usually be smelled from 200 metres away - that lovely familiar scent of a blob of deep frying dough.

Pilau: In Kenya, pilau is prepared for special occasions such as weddings. It is considered a celebration meal and is served with kachumbari. Pilau is attributed to the coastal people in Kenya. It is a special rice cooked with aromatic spices and either chicken or beef.

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CULTURE

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CULTURE

ndian weddings, also called ‘Vivaah’, are best known for the grandeur, traditions, grace, colours and almost carnival-type celebration associated with this sacred event, notable among these the Mehndi ceremony, which is considered one of the most important. According to Wikipedia, Mehndi (Henna tattoo) is a form of body art originating in ancient India, in which decorative designs are created on a person’s body using a paste created from the powdered dry leaves of the henna plant. Mehndi is one of the oldest forms of body art conceived by man. The Hindi and Arabic word Mehndi is derived from a Sanskrit word ‘mendhika’ which refers to the henna plant itself. Reference to uses of henna can be traced back to the Bronze ages. In the Bible, henna is referred to as Camphire. In and around the Indian subcontinent, henna was used as a cosmetic even before the Vedic ages. India is considered the source from which body art traditions with henna spread to different parts of the world like Egypt, Asia Minor and the Middle East. References of henna during the mummification process of Pharaohs as well as anecdotes of the famous Queen Cleopatra using henna to paint her body are well-known in history. Prophet Muhammad is known to have used henna paste to colour his greying beard and was known to advocate for its use to others as well. Traditionally, the Mehndi paste is made from dried powdered henna leaves. The leaves are dried in the sun, ground and sieved to obtain a fine mossy green powder, which is then combined with water, lemon juice, drops of eucalyptus oil, and mixed till a smooth paste is obtained. The paste is soaked overnight for maximum infusion and then poured inside a plastic cone. Smaller cones are preferred as it affords easier application. The tips of the cones are cut according to the preferred thickness of the lines needed. The cones are squeezed lightly to ensure smooth, continuous flow of Mehndi. Application is generally started from forearms, gradually moving down the hand, ending in the fingertips. Traditional Indian designs include peacock motifs, floral designs, bride/groom replicas and other elements that cover every inch of the hand, forearms, feet and calves. The fingertips are generally covered in thick layers of henna paste. The idea is to adorn the bride’s body in imitation of expensive Jewelry. The Mehndi ceremony takes place a day before the actual wedding, and the venue is decked up with flowers and

colourful draperies. The henna for the bride’s ceremony comes from the groom’s side along with some other gifts like dry fruits and sweets. On this day, the bride gets her henna done with all the ladies and daughters of the family singing and dancing around her. Elderly ladies sing traditional Mehndi songs with dholaks and other musical instruments. The bride has to sit for hours to get it done and then wait for it to dry so as to get a beautiful red pattern temporarily tattooed on her skin. It is believed that the darker the Mehndi, the stronger the bond between the married couple. The Mehndi ceremony for the groom takes place separately at his home, so after the bride’s Mehndi is done, her female relatives, especially her sisters, visit the groom’s ceremony. It is great fun as the would-be sisters-in-law play pranks on their future brother-in-law and try to get some money out of him as a tradition! However, the significance of applying Indian Mehndi during weddings is not restricted just to sentiments and beliefs. Although these beliefs make its application a much anticipated and charming tradition, the actual reason is of much deeper meaning. Besides lending colour to the body, Mehndi is a very powerful medicinal herb. Weddings are stressful, and often cause headaches and fevers. As the wedding day approaches, the excitement and nervous anticipation can take its toll on the couple. Application of Mehndi cools the body and calms the nerves, which is why it is applied on the hands and feet, which house nerve endings in the body. Although times have changed and a lot of new inclusions have been made into Indian weddings, the significance of the Mehndi ceremony has grown in stature. Many families bring in DJs to play songs and the celebrations go on late into the night, but if there is something that has changed, it is the designs and patterns. While only intricate Indian designs were traditionally applied in the past, brides today are experimenting with Arabic and Indo-Arabic designs and mixing shimmer pastes along with the traditional Mehndi paste. These intricate designs symbolise joy, beauty, spiritual awakening and offering. The bride’s Mehndi can even go halfway to her knees and sometimes semi-precious stones are embedded in the design. It is traditional to write the groom’s name on the bride’s palm and ask him to find it. This is a fun ice-breaker for the couple, especially in arranged marriages. The Mehndi ceremony is a reflection of the rich Indian culture, bringing together the knowledge of medicinal herbs with many lovely sentiments and beliefs. The result is a ceremony filled with fun and joy, and the perfect precursor to an auspicious wedding day.

IT IS BELIEVED THAT THE DARKER THE MEHNDI, THE STRONGER THE BOND BETWEEN THE MARRIED COUPLE

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CONSERVATION

ZAMBIA’S

WILDLIFE CONSERVATION HERO

While tourists have been home dreaming of game drives and campfire Gins and Tonics, men like Benson and his rangers have been working around the clock to safeguard the safari stars we’re all so desperate to see, writes Sarah Marshall.

t started with a few taunts, escalating to sticks, stones and bigger pieces of rubble. Now a small crowd has gathered on the main road leading to Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, and tensions are increasing – along with the size of ammunition being hurled. The focus of frayed tempers is a young bull elephant heading towards the village of Mfuwe, lured by the scent of fruiting mangoes, too delicious to resist. Living so close to each other, neighbourly quarrels are a fact of life, but at times – like this - they can go too far. “One of our colleagues was killed by an elephant,” recalls law enforcement advisor Benson Kanyembo, as he radios for backup support to diffuse the situation. “He was one of the best. I was with him when the animal charged and crushed him. That was when I started respecting elephants. Before that I used to scare them and chase after them, but that day I changed.” Respect for wildlife is at Benson’s core, and it’s fair to say the protection of Zambia’s numerous flagship species has largely been secured by the accomplished 48-year-old’s efforts. In the last eight years, he has trained more than 600 Zambians as anti-poaching scouts, and is now employed by an NGO - Conservation South Luangwa (CSL), working closely alongside a government agency called Department Of National Parks And Wildlife (DNPW) to safeguard the country’s most important assets. His work has earned international recognition with the prestigious Tusk Wildlife Ranger Award, presented

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CONSERVATION in 2019 by its royal patron, Prince William, Duke of Cambridge. The son of a policeman, Benson grew up with principles. Starting as an informer at the age of 22, he worked as a community scout and anti-poaching scout, eventually moving to CSL in 2009. At 6am, as syrupy golden light trickles like honey through the mopane forest, he deploys scouts for their daily shift. With 14,000sq km of ground to monitor – including the national park and surrounding community-owned Game Management Areas – this is not a 9-5 job. Managing a team of 66 community scouts, who work alongside a further 111 individuals employed by the government, Benson regularly leads training sessions. “You can have all the academic skills of a ranger, but what’s most important is the mental toughness,” he explains back at the park’s control centre, where he maps out strategic team movements for the next few weeks. Despite his reputation for being a tough disciplinarian, Benson is highly regarded by his students. In a show of solidarity, he has suffered gruelling ordeals – walking up to his neck through croc-infested waters and hiking for hours with only a small flask of water to quench his thirst. Protecting wildlife, by his own admission, is hard work and a round-the-clock responsibility. The following morning, we take an aerial surveillance flight above the park, looking for signs of fire – indicators illegal hunting has taken place. Later that afternoon, we join a Detection Dog Unit at a road check, searching for bullets or ivory stashed in cars. It’s an overwhelming task – and one which Benson, astutely, realises he can’t tackle alone. Focusing firmly on the future, he’s eager to pass on his skills and train a generation which will hopefully be even more adept and better equipped to combat wildlife crime. “I learned a lot from having good and bad leaders,” he tells me as we walk along the hippo-filled Luangwa River, a

peaceful, calm place Benson refers to as “heaven”. “I’ve seen some bosses who are so stingy they don’t want to delegate. When they retire, everything comes to a standstill. I don’t want to do that. I need to train others so that after I pass on, other people can continue to help save mother nature.” The COVID-19 pandemic has delivered a huge blow to Africa’s tourism. Cruising along the winding course of Luangwa River, Benson keeps a watchful eye on the wildlife below. He’s done this same surveillance run for many years, but today the scene looks different. By now, most safari tourists should be out taking advantage of the early morning light. Yet barely a tyre track has scratched the brittle, parched landscape. Along with a reduced number of government rangers, Benson and his team have been left to monitor the park alone. “The lodges and bush camps used to be our eyes and ears, but since only a handful are open, we need to make sure we cover the whole park and Game Management Areas – the whole He has suffered 14,000sq km.” gruelling ordeals – Increasing protection for Africa’s assets on dwindling funds is walking up to his a challenge shared by rangers across the continent. While we’ve neck through crocbeen home dreaming of game drives and campfire Gins and infested waters and Tonics, they’ve worked around the clock to safeguard the safari hiking for hours with stars we’re all so desperate to see. If bubbles and buy-outs are only a small flask the solution to keeping travellers safe, these men and women of water to quench are the equivalent saviours responsible for looking after wildlife. his thirst “You can see there’s a lot of poverty and suffering going on right now,” admits Benson, who recently supported the Tusk Wildlife Ranger Challenge race to raise funds across the continent. “In the morning, you might see 50 people heading to one river to fish. There is also a lot of timber cutting for firewood. People are doing anything they can to survive.” Fortunately, there’s not been the upsurge in big game poaching everyone feared, but the number of bushmeat snares, which indiscriminately trap animals, has increased. Like most of the community, Benson admits he is concerned about the spread of COVID-19 – even though it hasn’t impacted Africa the same way as other parts of the world. “CSL have distributed facemasks to officers, families and their neighbours. We are trying to do our best to help, but in a setup where people sit together, eat together, go to funerals together, it’s hard for them to accept they need to have this social distance.” Although the pandemic continues to pose multiple problems, Benson has optimistically searched for some silver linings. In many ways, he believes it has brought the ranger community closer together for a common cause. Even more, it has demonstrated the vital role they play in keeping Africa’s wildlife from harm. But what about hamstrung tourists stuck at home? How can they effectively help out? “People can support us by continuing to care about mother nature,” suggests Benson with a determination that’s shaped his success as a leader over the years. “We’ll continue to do the best we can with the boots on the ground, until it’s safe to meet again and celebrate.”

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ART

The Laas Geel of Somalia Laas Geel are cave formations on the rural outskirts of Hargeisa, Somaliland, situated in the Maroodi Jeex region of the country. A major tourist attraction, they contain some of the earliest known cave paintings of domesticated African aurochs (Bos primigenius africanus) in the Horn of Africa. Laas Geel’s rock art is estimated to date somewhere around circa 18,000 BC or 20,000 years ago. Filled with petroglyphs, these caves are one of the oldest monuments of the ancient culture in Africa. In an excellent state of preservation, the rock art depicts wild animals and decorated cattle (cows and bulls). They also feature herders, who are believed to be the creators of the paintings. Although the Laas Geel rock art had been known to the area’s inhabitants for centuries, its existence only came to international attention after the 2002 discovery by French archeologists. Somaliland in general is home to numerous such archaeological sites and megalithic structures, with similar rock art found at Haadh, Gudmo Biyo Cas, Dhambalin, Dhagah Maroodi and numerous other sites.

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ROOM WITH A VIEW

HOTEL NO.5

Staycation OFFERS AN UNFORGETTABLE

espite the nondescript name, this is a first class boutique hotel with marvelous staff offering superb service in a gorgeous facility. Nestled in the leafy suburbs of Entebbe, No. 5 has five star services and excellent customer care, and is a great option for guests looking for an intimate stay in a tranquil setting. Managed by the charming Michael Rourke, the staff are happy, friendly and always ready to help. We absolutely loved their food - very imaginative and tasteful, with great presentation. We will gladly take the 90-minute drive from Kampala severally, just for the pork ribs and burgers - sublime. We even had the house breakfast two days in a row. The luxury apartments are spread over two floors. The ground floor has a sitting room with an open plan kitchenette. The bedroom is upstairs with a small outside sitting area overlooking the garden and pool and has an en-suite bathroom with a shower. All rooms have Wi-Fi internet access, a guest safe, flat screen TV, direct dial telephone, and a filter coffee maker. The luxury twins and doubles are on the ground level. Each room has a small outside seating area opening onto the gardens and swimming pool and has an ensuite bathroom with a shower. “The Residence” is a beautiful standalone fully serviced and equipped two bedroom house with ample living areas and a fully equipped kitchen. With a dedicated full-time staff, it is the ultimate in luxury for those wanting to spend more time in Entebbe. The deep blue pool and spa, coupled with the lush greenery all around, make for the most relaxing getaway. Unwind beside the swimming pool, pamper yourself with a spa treatment, or work up a sweat in the hotel gym. A notable highlight is the outdoor movie night on Wednesdays, reminiscent of the 50s and 60s cinemas. No. 5 is a beautiful gem, a calm place to lay down and rest, eat well and unwind. You will love it! For more information, please visit hotelnumber5.com

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ROOM WITH A VIEW

Kruger Shalati A SAFARI FROM ABOVE

Ng’aali takes a look around a new, first-of-its-kind hotel suspended 50 feet above South Africa’s iconic Kruger National Park.

GUESTS AT THE NEW KRUGER SHALATI’S TRAIN ON THE BRIDGE are waking up to a whole new way of seeing the Big 5 atop the historic Selati Bridge, where some of Kruger National Park’s first visitors used to stay overnight. Permanently stationed on the Selati Bridge above the Sabie River, this hotel provides a vantage point not known anywhere else in safari Africa. Think unique luxury accommodation in a re-envisioned train that pays homage to guests who explored the park nearly 100 years ago. SITUATED AS A GATEWAY TO KRUGER NATIONAL PARK According to the hotel owners, Shalati was the name of a 19th Century female warrior chief who was one of the first women to rule the Tebula Clan, part of the Tsonga tribe that lived in the bush around the Murchison range in the present-day Limpopo Province. Shalati was a strong independent woman who protected her clan without the need for a king. The hotel has 31 rooms which include 24 carriage rooms accessed by an external walkway on the 984ft-long bridge, and a further seven land-based rooms in Bridge House which is positioned next to the bridge, also overlooking the river and the Train on the Bridge. These include a honeymoon suite and rooms that can be connected to form family suites. All rooms celebrate local art and design, have floor-to-ceiling windows allowing guests to spot crocodiles, hippos and elephants from their beds, along with sweeping views of the river and grasslands beyond. There is also a lounge carriage with a bar and a large deck with relaxing pool and panoramic views providing game viewing opportunities down on the river. Guests can grab their camera and binoculars and head out on two game drives a day in search of the Big 5 with expert guides. This unique accommodation has the respected South African tourism firm Thebe Tourism Group as the main shareholder. They are committed to developing iconic and unique tourism products which enhance the lives of communities. COVID-19 caused several months’ delays to the hotel’s development, but they are now ready to welcome guests. “To see our ambitious dream of putting an elevated train hotel on a bridge inside the iconic Kruger National Park come to life, after all the intense planning and hard work, is a feeling of elation and pride. We are delighted to finally be able to welcome visitors to Kruger Shalati for a unique and memorable experience,”says Judiet Barnes, the Sales, Marketing and Brand Executive for Kruger Shalati. The hotel is an exciting and truly unique African travel experience that will be on the bucket list of many a globetrotter, so get there while you can, before it gets booked up. Rates range from ZAR 7,950 per person per night, which includes all meals, house drinks, two daily game drives, and transfers. www.krugershalati.com

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ROOM WITH A VIEW

INSPIRED BY HISTORY Kruger Shalati is a modern throwback to the national park’s origins as a travel destination when the first visits to the park were permitted in the early 1920s. Initially established in 1898 as the Sabie game reserve, it was renamed Kruger National Park in 1926 after the proclamation of the national parks act when it merged with neighbouring Shingwedzi Game Reserve. Since its inception, Kruger National Park and rail travel have a deep history. For several years, this iconic game reserve was largely only accessible by rail. In 1923, South African Railways instituted a nine day rail trip of the Lowveld, including an overnight stop at Sabie Bridge in the exact spot where Kruger Shalati is positioned. As there were no overnight facilities for the public, tourists would sleep in their carriages and wake up to the sunrise views over the river before moving on to their next destination. These visits to the Sabie Game Reserve - along the Selati railway line - proved so popular that rangers later accompanied the tourists on the train and arranged excursions into the bush on foot. In 1957, the first wilderness trails were established and the start of the Kruger experience as we know it was born.

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FASHION

FINDING BEAUTY

CONFUSION

OUT OF

Words by Hassan Ssentongo, Photos by Walter Photography

hen Uganda went into lockdown in March 2020 due to COVID-19, almost all in the creative industry were thrown into a state of sheer confusion. The country’s lively and colourful creative scene, upon which most of them drew their inspiration, was replaced with silence. “We felt hopeless, wondering how and if we could cope in this unique time,” Teddy Nabisenke tells me via video call. The visual artist had carved a niche as one of Kampala’s most in-demand jewellery designers at the time, serving clients across the world and relying on Kampala’s glittering social scene to promote her art. In fact, she had permanently closed her physical shop to focus on pop-up shops at festivals, posh coffee shops and restaurants. “Then boom, everything came to a pause, and not just any pause, but a really long one!” she recalls. Physical interaction was completely out of the picture, no one was meeting anyone. And the cash cow that was the expatriates and tourists was also out of the picture. However, this confusion offered the artist a rare opportunity to sit back and reflect. “Truly, there were so many lessons, and that’s what I’m so thankful for,” she says. For a long time, her offering of bespoke handmade jewellery had catered to mostly non-Ugandans, because they were more willing to spend on art than

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FASHION the typical Ugandan. This had to change. “I realised that we had to create for, and solve the problems of the local consumer.” Perhaps the biggest opportunity from this, for Nabisenke, was the ability to pivot. Because everyone was home pretty much the whole time, the need to reinvigorate the appearance of the home space became imminent. Interior decor slowly took over as a giant revenue stream for her, something she took in good stride and adapted. As the lockdown restrictions are slowly eased, her interior decor business hasn’t stopped growing. She specialises in lamps, lamp holders, wall accents, photo frames, vases, candle holders, doormats, cushions, mirrors, curtains and more; each piece carrying the bold and ‘in your face’ extravagance her brand is known for. “I find solid colours so mundane to look at,” she says of her design aesthetic. “I enjoy it when a client involves themselves in the design process. Picking ideas from elsewhere to add to mine gives me the freedom to have fun as I design.” Born in Kampala in a family of seven, and raised by ‘artsy parents’, Nabisenke knew very early on that she would become an artist. “Each of my siblings and cousins had a special talent; if they weren’t fine artists, they were singers or performers. And here I was, with none of those talents. However, I found comfort in beading and jewellery.” While this was atypical to the family, she received all the support she needed. She pursued her talent all the way through school, graduating with a Bachelor of Arts Degree in Industrial and Fine Arts at The Margaret Trowell School of Industrial and Fine Arts, Makerere University. Through her work, she has participated in various local and international exhibitions, often tackling social issues such as human trafficking, family planning and HIV. One of her installments was titled Okutambula Kulaba Okudda Kunyumya (If you’ve travelled, you’ll have a story to tell),

directed at both the victims of human trafficking and the governments who are indifferent to the realities of it. On what it will take for the creative arts industry to grow beyond the confines of our borders, she’s quick to note that Uganda has a wealth of great talent. “We have so much to offer, you haven’t even seen a quarter of what’s out there. However, we still need a levelled ground to work from. Creatives need a conducive space to think freely and share openly. When the internet is shut down, thousands of businesses get affected, impeding the growth of the industry.” On the issue of sustainability, which is a hot topic in fashion right now, Nabisenke believes that the industry needs to do better. “As we steer this movement forward, we need to be honest. So many brands are using the ‘sustainability card’ to win customers without actually putting the

“I FIND SOLID COLOURS SO MUNDANE TO LOOK AT..I ENJOY IT WHEN A CLIENT INVOLVES THEMSELVES IN THE DESIGN PROCESS. PICKING IDEAS FROM ELSEWHERE TO ADD TO MINE GIVES ME THE FREEDOM TO HAVE FUN AS I DESIGN.”

right systems in place,” she notes. For her own brand, she ensures that each product is of high quality and with impeccable finishing. “Great art should be ageless and timeless - it should never go out of style. It should be something you’ll wear or use for as long as you wish, and pass on to your offspring. Also, almost all the materials we work with are recycled and all products are recyclable too.” Get in touch with her at teddynabisenke@ gmail.com

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TRENDS

the colour

Purple!

As we trudge through this pandemic, it is unwise to dwell on the negative. Hope and optimism should be at the centre of our hearts. When it comes to colours, none evokes the sense of imagination we desire, more than purple. This energetic shade stimulates the imagination and inspires high ideals, allowing us to get in touch with our deeper thoughts.

Sandals - Iconic, Senana Mall, Basement

Scarf - Asyanut Safaris, Jumbo Plaza

Beanie - Mr. Price, Acacia Mall Crotchet Swimsuit Ninamire, ninamire.com Hairband Ms Atai Hair, msatai.com

Leather Jacket - Iconic, Senana Mall, Basement

Sneakers - Mwiza Store, Kooki Tower, Level 7, Shop 701

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Micro Bag - Posh by KC, Kingsgate Mall, Kabalagala

Gown - Aliad Zoe, Nsambya, behind the American Embassy

GUIDES AND TIPS

BUSINESS TRAVEL

PACKING TIPS

corporate travel to gain points or miles on your airline, hotel or travel credit card of choice. You should also choose a credit card without foreign transaction fees. 8 Charge electronics before you fly. Your phone, laptop and tablet should all have plenty of battery to help you pass time productively in the airport and on your flight. You won’t need to fight for an outlet at your gate either. 9 Use programs that speed up your travel. Check into your flights online and print your boarding pass before heading to the airport. Apply for TSA Precheck and Global Entry to gain access to faster-moving security and customs around the world.

Use only carry-on bags. Lugging a large suitcase through a foreign city or having your luggage lost before your destination is no way to start a business trip. Pack light to keep all your belongings in your allotted carry-on bags. 1

Keep essentials packed between trips. Having extra toiletries, chargers, office supplies and business cards ready in your bag can save you time each time you travel. Pack dress shirts in plastic garment bags. The plastic bags your dry cleaning is delivered in can help keep shirts from wrinkling in your suitcase. 2

Include casual clothes, not just suits. Having business-appropriate clothing is important. However, you’ll likely have time to explore your surroundings on foot and have a casual dinner one night. Packing gym clothes is also important. 3

Pack with security checkpoints in mind. Depending on where you’re travelling to, you will have to follow various security protocols. Your liquids and electronics should be easily accessible. 4

5 Invest in good luggage and accessories. A suitcase that is easy to pack and maneuver is worth the investment. A small digital scale that fits in a side pocket can help you avoid costly charges for a suitcase over the airline’s weight limit. 6 Pack items that help you sleep. Prioritise a pillow, headphones or eye mask to help you sleep while at a hotel or on the plane. A good night of sleep is more important than a fourth pair of shoes. 7 For smooth business travel, join rewards programs. Take advantage of your

10 Book non-stop flights. Layovers lengthen trips. A two or three hour stop mid-trip can mean spending an extra day on the road, waking up earlier than necessary or having a suitcase that didn’t make the same transfer you did. 11 Pay for an airport lounge membership. Most airlines provide lounges with plenty of food, outlets and quiet space for a reasonable cost. Spend your time waiting for your flight away from the hustle and bustle of everyone waiting for flights. 12 Print important confirmation numbers. While no one likes to think about losing their phone, it is possible to run out of battery just as you need your boarding pass or confirmation number. Print your itinerary and keep a copy in each of your bags.

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GUIDES AND TIPS

SAFARI PACKING LIST

Video Recording Sunglasses They record snaps and sync them to your Snapchat Memories. Money Belt Keep your money and valuables out of sight with this belt.

Mini Wine Bag A stylish and practical accessory ideal for picnics and other alfresco occasions away from home.

Waterproof Backpack Prevent rain and precipitation from seeping into your backpack and damaging its contents.

Smartphone Gimbal The built-in controls rotate your phone in one sweeping motion for perfect footage. Mini Steam Iron Featuring three fabric heating levels, this iron removes inevitable wrinkles from packed clothing.

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Universal Travel Power Strip They have multiple USB charging ports, AC sockets, and universal charge for UK, EU, Aus, and US sockets. The Portable AeroPress Mix a rich hot cuppa on the go, anytime, anywhere.

Refillable Sanitiser Wristband Shaped like a watch, it’s easy to fill, attach to your wrist, and dispense sanitiser with ease.

GUIDES AND TIPS

Travel Health

Weather Calendar

Don’t let sickness stifle your travel plans. Here are tips to keep you in good health while in Uganda.

Best time to visit Uganda month by month:

COVID-19 PCR TEST AND MASKS

This is one of the two best seasons out of the year to visit Uganda because this is considered a dry season with little to no rainfall. It is a popular time for trekking mountain gorillas and chimpanzees as well as birdwatching and viewing a variety of wildlife.

All travellers will be required to present to the airline, proof of a negative PCR test result for COVID-19, conducted 72 hours or less before departure and done by a health facility accredited by the host Government. Passengers must carry along an official printed certificate as SMS and digital certificates will not be accepted. While in transit, the returnee will be required to adhere to the host country’s Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) for safe travel and the SOPs provided by the airline while on the plane. This includes wearing a face mask and sanitisation.

YELLOW FEVER HEALTH CARD

A must for most African nations, get these from your doctor, and don’t wait until the last minute! Aside from vaccinations, don’t forget your necessary medications. According to the CDC, yellow fever vaccination is required to enter Uganda if you are travelling from a country with risk of transmission.

FIRST AID KIT

Out in the wilderness, the nearest town could be hours or even days away. This means catching a cold could turn into a miserable experience. That is why it’s important to pack some cough drops, Sudafed, diarrhoea medication, Aspirin, Dramamine, and allergy medication. You don’t need to bring a full first aid kit, as most lodges and guides have their own. Simply think about the first aid medications you may need if you start feeling sick.

HAND SANITISER

Why not protect yourself as much as possible? Getting sick is tough, but getting sick on a safari could be a nightmare. There are times when clean water for hand washing may not be available, so hand sanitiser will come in handy.

JANUARY TO FEBRUARY

MARCH TO MAY

This is when the Uganda climate changes to one of the wet seasons. Some rains can be heavy, causing flooding and road inaccessibility. However, if you don’t mind the rain, you could save money during this time with reduced accommodation rates. You will also appreciate the lush scenery and abundance of migratory birds during this period.

JUNE TO AUGUST

Another dry season, this period is one of the best times to visit for wildlife viewing. It is possible that you could see some rains during these months, but it most likely will not ruin your itinerary.

SEPTEMBER TO OCTOBER

While you can expect rainfall during these months, you should still be able to enjoy excellent opportunities to view wildlife.

NOVEMBER

November is when you may experience heavy rain showers turning the landscape green again. This is another good time to see migratory birds.

DECEMBER

December is when the rains slack off and temperatures start to rise along with gorilla tracking rates. If you can’t stand the heat, December may present a better month to visit than January and February.

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NG’AALI KIDS

HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW YOUR SAFARI COLLECTIVE NOUNS? Although large gatherings are not conducive with COVID-19 social distancing rules right now, it doesn’t stop our incredible wildlife from congregating together and finding safety in numbers. But, how well do you know your safari collective nouns? Here are some of our favourites. ● An armoury of aardvarks ● A business of mongoose ● A cloud of bats ● A kaleidoscope of butterflies ● An army of caterpillars ● A coalition of cheetahs ● A herd of elephants ● A flamboyance of flamingos ● A tower of giraffes ● A band of gorillas ● A confusion of guinea fowls ● A bloat of hippos ● A colony of honey badgers ● A fork of kudus ● A conspiracy of lemurs ● A leap of leopards ● A pride of lions ● A lounge of lizards ● A parliament of owls ● An ostentation of peacocks ● A prickle of porcupines ● A crash of rhinos ● A bed of scorpions ● A dazzle of zebras

ROUTES

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Expansion Map

Sales & Ticketing Offices Kampala: Victoria University Towers, Jinja Road, Kampala - Uganda | Tel: Tel: +256 (0)200 406 400 | Email: reservations@ugandairlines.com Entebbe Town: Victoria Mall, Shop G.09, Ground Floor, Berkeley Road Entebbe | Tel: +256 (0)200 406 421 / +256 707110416 | Email: ebb.sales@ugandairlines.com Entebbe International Airport: 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building | Tel: +256 (0) 200406420 Nairobi City: 12th floor Lonrho House, Standard Street | Tel: +254 707 900777 / +254 100 900777 | Email: nbo.reservations@ugandairlines.com Nairobi Airport: Terminal 2, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport | Tel: +254 101 090 644 | Email: nbo.reservations@ugandairlines.com Dar es Salaam: Viva Towers, G09/10, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania | Tel: +255 764 111983 | +255 765 426554 | Email: dar.reservations@ugandairlines.com Juba: SADECO Building, Airport Road | Tel: +211 (0)928900500, +211 (0)917747159 | Email: juba.sales@ugandairlines.com Bujumbura: Ground Floor, Jubilee Centre Building | Chausee prince Louis Rwagasore | Tel: +257 22 280844 | Email: sales.bujumbura@ugandairlines.com Mogadishu: Aden Adde International Airport, Mogadishu | Tel: +252 (0)615550020 | +252 (0)615141315 | Email: reservations@ugandairlines.com Kinshasa: Avenue du Col. Lukusa No 32 BIS | Tel: +243 817 860 333 | Email: sales.kinshasa@ugandairlines.com Mombasa: Nyali Center, Ground floor | Tel: +254 100 396810 / +256 100 396811 | Email: rmba.reservations@ugandairlines.com Arusha / Kilimanjaro: 2nd floor, Ngorongoro Conversation Building | Tel: +255 652 682 851 / +255 713 414 777 | Email: jro.airport@ugandairlines.com Cargo, Mail and Parcels: Entebbe International Airport | Cargo Terminal Room 29 | Cell: +256 (0) 758 380065 | Mail: cargo@ugandairlines.com HEAD OFFICES: Uganda National Airlines Company Limited dba Uganda Airlines | EagleAir Hangar Complex | Entebbe International Airport - Old Airport | P.O. Box 431, Entebbe, Uganda | Tel: +(256)200 406 400 | Email: info@ugandairlines.com

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TRAVELLER REVIEW

WHAT TRAVEL EXPERTS THINK ABOUT UGANDA

The best way to know what to expect of a destination is to seek what the experts say. Here are three travel experts who have visited Uganda several times and what they think about it.

ALAN MURPHY

GEMMA PITCHER

SUE WATT

Murphy is a travel writer and author

Pitcher has authored several Lonely Planet

Watt is an award-winning writer

of over 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks,

guidebooks, including the guides to Africa,

who specialises in African travel and

including the guides to Southern

Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa.

conservation. She writes for national newspapers, magazines, Rough Guides

Africa and Zambia & Malawi.

and Lonely Planet.

Uganda – Wildlife secrets revealed If you haven’t got it on your list of East African safari destinations I suggest you add it…quickly. Watching wildlife is a unique experience in this welcoming and stunningly beautiful country. What you do find in Uganda is a variety of spectacular landscapes, from thick forests studded with giant ironwood and mahogany trees to open, rolling savannah backed with the silhouettes of jagged mountains – habitats which provide all manner of exciting wildlife moments on safari. At the top of the list are those critically endangered, gentle furballs – mountain gorillas. Uganda is one of the three countries in the world where you can see mountain gorillas in the wild. There are also plenty of monkeys scampering around the forests. In Kibale National Park for example, you’ll probably be woken by the screeching calls of up to 13 different kinds of primates. And that brings us to chimpanzees; their ability to seem ‘human’ through small gestures, movements and expressions will leave you astonished.

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Gorillas, chimps and classic safaris Uganda’s top-billing wildlife attraction is of course a visit to the Bwindi Forest National Park to trek gorillas. This is an experience I’ve never heard a negative review of and it’s definitely on my lifetime must-do list. But if time (there’s often a year-long waiting list for independent visitors), money or fitness prevents you from hooking up with these hairy celebrities, you can substitute chimpanzees for gorillas in Kibale National Park. Be warned though that the chimps here are not as habituated to humans as the gorillas – on my visit, the only hint of their presence was an abandoned nest high in the treetops. Murchison Falls National Park is a great option if you are already in the country, being only a day’s drive from Kampala, and boasting spectacular waterfalls and fun river safaris to spot Spoonbill storks and hippos.

Great apes, great landscapes, great adventures Most people understandably come to Uganda for its mountain gorillas – half of the world’s population of around 730 lives in Bwindi, but there’s a lot more to Uganda than this. In Murchison Falls NP, the wild Nile squeezes through a tiny fissure in the Rift Valley Escarpment forming one of the most dramatic waterfalls on the continent. Similarly, Rwenzori Mountains National Park reopened 10 years ago and is now on the schedule of many adventure travel operators offering climbs of Mount Stanley. Queen Elizabeth NP is deservedly known as Uganda’s premier wildlife reserve and as home to some 600+ bird species, is regarded by birding enthusiasts as one of the best on the continent. Adrenaline junkies will want to try white water rafting along the Nile at Jinja, one of the scariest experiences of my life.

BOOK BOOKSHELF SHELF

OUR BEST

travel book RECOMMENDATIONS

Seeking inspiration for your next trip to Africa? Pick up a book, be it a biography, historical page-turner or mesmerising novel. Our top Africa travel books all feature irresistible African settings and protagonists (real and fictionalised) who show tremendous passion, resilience and humanity in the face of adversity. We bet you’ll want to get on that plane to these destinations before you turn the last page!

THE GREEN EDIT: TRAVEL: EASY TIPS FOR THE ECOFRIENDLY TRAVELLER By Juliet Kinsman The pandemic has given us the chance to think about how we experience travel in the future and how we can become a more responsible and sustainable traveller. You can now explore the world and satisfy your wanderlust in the most ecofriendly way with tips and stories from British sustainability expert Juliet Kinsman. From booking to boarding, and tips for lesser-known holiday spots, find everything you need to know for a lower-impact getaway. Being green has never been so gratifying.

FODOR’S GUIDES Welcome to Lagos. Lagos’s combo of grit and (chaos) is bound to mesmerize all those keen to explore its vibrant culture, intense parties, charismatic souls, rich history and fabulous food. This guide exposes the mystery, the charm and all that Lagos has to offer to the bold traveller looking to immerse themselves in a truly African experience.

ALL GOD’S CHILDREN NEED TRAVELLING SHOES By Maya Angelou Published in 1986, this is the fifth book in African-American writer and poet Maya Angelou’s sevenvolume autobiography series. Set between 1962 and 1965, the book begins when Angelou is 33 years old, and recounts the years she lived in Accra, Ghana.

WHEN I THINK OF ALL THE

BOOKS STILL LEFT FOR ME TO READ, I AM CERTAIN OF FURTHER HAPPINESS JULES RENARD

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TRAVEL GUIDE Welcome to the Pearl!

GENERAL INFORMATION Voltage

GETTING AROUND 1.Transfer to the city/your hotel

Thanks to reliable Internet at the airport, it's possible for you to order an Uber ride to your next destination in Kampala or Entebbe. If you are in a hurry, you can take advantage of the availability of the many cabs at the airport whose drivers are always stationed at the arrivals terminal, ready for a win-win bargain with travellers. 2.Visa

Visitors to Uganda must have a valid visa in accordance with national immigration laws, guidelines and formalities. Uganda visas can now be obtained online at https://visas.immigration. go.ug/ Alternatively, you may obtain the visa at Uganda's missions abroad or on arrival at the ports of entry around the country’s borders. The costs of visas are as follows: Single entry $50 per individual, multiple entry visa 6-12 months $100 and East African tourist visas cost $50. Accompany your application documents with a valid yellow fever certificate. For more information, visit https://visas.immigration.go.ug/ 3. Nationals who don’t need visas

Nationals of the following countries don’t need visas when visiting Uganda: COMESA (Angola, Eritrea, Malawi, Madagascar, Seychelles, Swaziland, Zambia, Comoros, Kenya, Mauritius, Zimbabwe and Botswana), East Africa (Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania and Burundi), others (Antigua, Barbados, Fiji, Grenada, Lesotho, Sierra Leone, Solomon Islands, The Grenadines, Vanuatu, Ghana, Cyprus, Bahamas, Belize, Gambia, Jamaica, Malta, Singapore, St. Vincent-Tonga and Ireland).

IMPORTANT CONTACTS EMERGENCY CONTACTS

Uganda Ambulance Services: Mob +256782556878 Medical flight evacuations: Mob Aero Club, Fly Uganda

Mob +256772712557 Uganda Police: Emergency 999/112. UPF Headquarters +256414233814; +256414250613. Department of Immigration: Mob +256414595945 OTHER CONTACTS

+256414355000/+256312355000 Uganda Tourism Board: +256414342196/7

NG'AALI

Security

Uganda’s towns are safe to visit any time of the year. This development has been achieved through effective collaboration of the different security organs like the army (Uganda People’s Defence Forces), Uganda Police and Tourism Police. That said, like any other city, Kampala too has its share of trouble makers. It is thus not advisable to walk alone in isolated areas, especially at night. Water

It is safer to drink boiled or bottled water. The average price of bottled water is Shs1,000 per 500ml. Transport

The easiest and fastest way to get around cities is boda-boda rides; a motorbike mode of transportation that offers taxi services - each is limited to carrying one passenger. The most professional service provider in this case is Uber Boda, Safe Boda and Taxify, all of which can be accessed via their mobile phone applications. If you prefer using vehicles/cabs and wish to avoid traffic, the recommended time for travel is 6am to 8am, 10am to12pm and 3pm to 5pm. Language

Uganda is home to over 50 ethnic groups, the majority of whom speak the national language, English. If you wish to get interpreters of foreign languages, visit the website of your country’s high commission / embassy in Kampala. Financial transactions

The most used currency is Uganda Shillings, the national currency. Tourist areas and facilities accept foreign currencies too, particularly US dollars. Cash is the preferred means of transaction in Uganda. Credit cards are less dependable because of unreliable internet connection in some areas. Forex

The foreign exchange rates at forex bureaus are more favourable than those at banks. The main street of most towns is where you will find the highest concentration of forex bureaus. In Kampala, go to Jinja-Kampala road. Banking and Office hours

Uganda Wildlife Authority (manages national parks):

The primary wall outlet type is Type G (BS-1363). Voltage is 220-240 volts AC @ 50 Hz. Laptops and gadgets in general have chargers that are already compatible with 100-240 volts. If yours is higher or lower, you will need a simple plug adapter. The recommended adapter for a Type G outlet is #EA7.

MARCH - MAY 2021

Most commercial banks and corporate offices operate from 8am to 5pm on weekdays and 9am to 12pm on Saturdays. Most don’t open on Sundays.

A PERFECT ESCAPE FOR BUSINESS OR LEISURE

With 144 rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, a health club, conference facilities, 3 restaurants, 3 bars, laundry services, a business center, gardens with a natural ambience, Lake Victoria Hotel - Entebbe is a ﬁtting choice for a retreat away from the bustle and noise of the city. Day Friday Saturday Friday - Sunday Daily

Offer Show-cooking with live Band BBQ Dinner Weekend offer on accommodation Drought Beer – buy 2 get 1 free, from 6pm

Price Ugx 60,000 with a soda Ugx 60,000 with a soda $140 double, $100 single Ugx 16,000 for 3 beers

Plot 23/31 Circular Road | P. O Box 15, Entebbe | Tel: +256 312 310 100/+256 414 351 600 Email: reservations@lvhotel.co.ug

Want to Hire the Right person Faster? Call us 1

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+256 772 159 740/ 704 607 167 recruitment@welcometoebc.com www.welcometoebc.com

TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS

BY DESTINATION Uganda Airlines has undertaken the necessary safety measures in compliance with approved guidelines by host Governments aimed at protecting passengers and crew. The following guidelines will be applicable for all our flights. All travellers will be required to present to the airline, proof of a negative PCR test result for COVID-19, conducted within 72 hours of departure and done by a health facility accredited by the host Government. Passengers must carry along an official printed certificate as SMS and digital certificates will not be accepted. While in transit, the returnee will be required to adhere to the host country’s Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) for safe travel and the SOPs provided by the airline while on the plane. This includes wearing a face mask and sanitisation. Every individual traveller is advised to carry a spare mask(s) in case they need to replace the original one that they have. Used masks will only be disposed of in a facility provided for that purpose.

UGANDA (ENTEBBE)

All departing and arriving passengers will be subjected to temperature checks and enhanced screening. Passengers who may have a body temperature above 37.5℃ (99.5°F) or any symptoms of coronavirus will be referred to further management which may include testing and/or quarantine. (72 hours) No quarantine will be applicable for travellers with a negative PCR test, body temperature below 37.5℃ (99.5°F), and who do not present any symptoms of COVID-19. For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /

TANZANIA (DAR ES SALAAM, KILIMANJARO, ZANZIBAR )

All travellers whether foreign or returning residents entering or leaving the United Republic of Tanzania will be subjected to enhanced screening for COVID-19 infection. There will be no 14 days of mandatory quarantine. All travellers whether foreigners or returning residents whose countries or airlines require them to get tested for COVID-19 and turn negative, as a condition for travelling, will be required to present a certificate upon arrival. Travellers from other countries with symptoms and signs related to COVID-19 infection will undergo enhanced screening and may be tested for RT-PCR. While in the country, all international travellers should observe adherence to Infection. Prevention and control measures such as hand hygiene, wearing masks, and keeping physical distancing are deemed appropriate. All travellers are required to truthfully fill out a Traveller’s Surveillance Form available onboard or in any other transport means and submit to Port Health Authorities upon arrival. All international arriving passengers shall dispose of their masks after use during travel at designated waste collection containers upon arrival.

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MARCH - MAY 2021

In case of any medical emergency while in the United Republic of Tanzania, please call the toll-free Health Emergency Number 199. For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /

SOUTH SUDAN (JUBA)

No quarantine is mandated in South Sudan. All arriving passengers are required to present a valid COVID-19 certificate from an approved laboratory in a departure country, tested within 72 hours before travel, and must provide a letter of No Objection while entering South Sudan. For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero/

KENYA (NAIROBI, MOMBASA)

Passengers will be refused entry if not holding a hard copy of a negative PCR test certificate obtained within 96 hours before departure. This does not apply to passengers holding a diplomatic passport and their accompanying family members, provided they are holding a negative PCR test certificate obtained within 7 days before departure. Passengers are required to submit a Travellers Health Surveillance Form online at https://ears.health.go.ke/ airline_registration/. Passengers are required to fill a Passenger Locator Form during their flights to Kenya, due to the outbreak of novel coronavirus. Passengers must have a body temperature not above 37.5℃ (99.5°F) and must not have any symptoms of coronavirus. They must hold a QR code showing they have completed a Travellers Health Surveillance Form online prior to departure. This is completed online here: https://ears.health.go.ke/airline_ registration / For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero/

SOMALIA (MOGADISHU)

Check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /

BURUNDI (BUJUMBURA)

Check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /

TRAVEL ADVISORIES

Please note that some travel advisories have been issued by a number of countries and may include travel restrictions. Some of the countries on our network that have issued travel restrictions include Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Somalia, South Sudan, and Bujumbura. For more details, please visit: https:// www.iatatravelcentre.com/international-travel-documentnews/1580226297.htm Important: All travellers on Uganda Airlines are required to reconfirm their flight within 72 hours to their travel date.

ROOM WITH A VIEW

Mahogany Springs Lodge BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK

YoUR fRee CopY

Mahogany Springs is situated in one of the most intimate, secluded, beautiful, and most importantly, natural settings in the world – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. The mist covered hillsides of Bwindi are blanketed by one of Uganda’s oldest and most biologically diverse rainforests, a habitat for over 450 mountain gorillas, roughly half of the world’s population, including several habituated groups which can be tracked. Surrounded by over 300 sq. km of tropical rainforest, Mahogany Springs makes the most of its location, offering guests privacy and serenity in a spectacular setting. All 11 huge luxurious suites have their own exquisitely designed terrace with magnificent panoramic views over the forest, lodge gardens and Munyanga River, giving a feeling of total immersion in this lush rainforest. Being in the middle of the forest means gorilla families in the surrounding area often pay a visit to the lodge gardens, giving a surprise gorilla experience for guests. Spend the day tracking gorillas through the forest, engaging with the local community and tribes, or sitting on the terrace of your room listening to the sounds of the forest, and maybe the odd primate visitor as time slowly passes by. Mahogany Springs is open year-round and offers luxurious suites from $240 per person per night sharing, including all meals.

JANUARY- MARCH 2020

Find out more at www.mahoganysprings.com

JANUARY - MARCH 2020

NG'AALI

JANUARY - MARCH 2020

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

DESTINATION KENYA

Lunatic Express Crazy times on the

Bugisu’s Imbalu

A teenager’s bittersweet rite of passage

The African Kanga A traditional form of African twitter

Trekking The Magnificent www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

RWENZORI MOUNTAINS

The plan to build a thousand-kilometre railway track from the Indian Ocean into the heart of Africa was considered by many to be utterly insane. Mark Eveleigh boards the train that, a century later, is still called The Lunatic Express. Words and photos by Mark Eveleigh

ith the blast of a horn, like a wounded bull elephant, the old train rumbled into Nairobi Station. There was a flurry of activity as passengers hauled luggage to the edge of the platform. To the Swahili travellers, this train is known as gari la moshi (the car that smokes), but most tourists know it as The Lunatic Express. There have been accusations of lunacy ever since the idea was conceived to build a railway line from the Indian Ocean over a thousand kilometres to Kampala, in the heart of Africa. Now, more than a hundred years after the project was started, friends in Nairobi looked at me like I was equally crazy when I told them that my girlfriend Nina and I planned to take the train to Mombasa. “But the plane is so much faster,” a bush-pilot friend exclaimed. “Even the matatu minibuses are quicker and cheaper and probably more comfortable too,” a park ranger told me. “You are crazy to go by train,” they all seemed to agree. Just as I was on the verge of being convinced, an old friend who is an experienced East Africa correspondent weighed in on the side of lunacy: “The building of that railway line was one of the crazy things that could really only happen in Africa. Everybody should experience the Lunatic Express while they’re in Kenya,” he said. “I’ve done it three times.” Reassured by his enthusiasm, I booked two tickets and by mid-afternoon the next day, we were already dragging our bags into a surprisingly crowded Rift Valley Railway carriage. “Either there are a lot of crazy people in Nairobi, or there are a few good reasons for taking the Lunatic Express after all,” Nina pointed out. Within a few minutes, we were already convinced that our decision had been the right one. The tracks slithered quickly away from the grumbling traffic on Mombasa Road and further ahead, we passed within a few metres of the

NAIRoBI • MoMBASA • MoGADISHU • JUBA • DAR eS SALAAM • KILIMANJARo • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR 62

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

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NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR • KINSHASA

Ngaali Inflight Magazine Vol 4 2021

Articles inside

ROUTES

TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS

BOOKSHELF

TRAVELLER REVIEW

TRAVEL PACKING TIPS

FASHION: FINDING BEAUTY OUT OF CONFUSION

TRAVEL HEALTH AND WEATHER CALENDAR

ROOM WITH A VIEW

ART: THE LAAS GEEL OF SOMALIA

ZAMBIA’S WILDLIFE CONSERVATION HERO

Tented Camp CULTURE: BEAUTIFUL BODY ART The Indian Mehndi Tradition

CUISINE Kenya’s Must-Try Staples

CELEBRITY PROFILE Chimamanda Adichie

ANIMAL KINGDOM The African Wild Dog

ZIMBABWE

MUMBAI

LONDON

SOUTH AFRICA

TANZANIA

JUBA

DUBAI

UGANDA

MOMBASA

UGANDA CRANES Chasing The Third Straight AFCON Qualification

SEMLIKI SAFARI LODGE Uganda’s Oldest Upmarket

BUSINESS TRAVELLER Cross-Border Transfer