Nga'ali Inflight Magazine by masta.uganda

Ng’aali YOUR FREE COPY

The

CRANE soars again!

INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT- DEC 2019

BWINDI

THE IK PEOPLE

The world’s No.1 gorilla destination

Travels among Uganda’s misrepresented tribe

NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA

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CONTENTS

Contents

OC T- DEC 2019

08 MESSAGE FROM H.E YOWERI KAGUTA MUSEVENI 10 CEO'S NOTE

sports

18 THE RISE OF Denis Masinde Onyango 20 WORLD CUP She Cranes come of age

regulars 16 BUSINESS TRAVEL Things to know about the Ugandan Shilling

EVENTS CALENDAR

26 LIFESTYLE Sleepless in Kampala

28 HOW I TRAVEL Amos Wekesa and Muhereza Kyamutetera

30 CELEBRITY INTERVIEW 35 PROFILE Isaac Oboth

Ntare Guma Mbaho Mwine

38 TRAVEL DIARY Adele Cutler

62 ANIMAL KINGDOM Gorilla trekking in Bwindi 72 BIRD WATCHING Birds with colours of the Ugandan flag 88 HOTEL BUCKET LIST

90 ROOM WITH A VIEW Latitude 00

95 TRENDS The new neon 107 BOOKSHELF 110 NG'AALI KIDS 114 ROUTES AND FARES 119 NEWS

95 4

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

CONTENTS

destinations 42 BURUNDI 44 TANZANIA 46 KENYA

50 KENYA - MOMBASA 52 JUBA 54 MOGADISHU

56 KILIMANJARO 60 SOUTH AFRICA

conservation 66 PRESERVING UGANDA'S LIONS 68 TUSK CONSERVATION AWARDS 70 ANGUCIA, MOTHER OF CHIMPS

features

THE KAMPALA BELL A history of aviation in Uganda

12 74 76 82 92

FOOD TOURS The new way to experience Ugandan cuisine THE MISREPRESENTED IK TRIBE BARKING UP THE RIGHT TREE

JORAM MUZIRA Uganda's fashion wizard

guides and tips 96 TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR AFRICAN SAFARIS 98 SAFARI PACKING LIST

99 TRAVEL HEALTH AND WEATHER CALENDAR

102 TRAVEL GUIDE

106 TRAVELLER REVIEW

Ng’aali YOUR FREE COPY

soars again!

The world’s No.1 gorilla destination

CRANE

BWINDI

76 THE IK PEOPLE

Travels among Uganda’s misrepresented tribe

NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA

Ng'aali, the name of our inflight magazine, is derived from the local Luganda name of the Crested Crane, which is the national bird of the African Nation of Uganda. It appears on the flag and Coat of Arms and can be found near the country’s many lakes and rivers.

INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT- DEC 2019

The

On the cover:

Experience our ultra-modern CRJ900 aircraft...

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

Crested Cranes stand over 3 feet tall, with a wingspan of up to 6.5 feet. They live up to 22 years, but hatch in 30 days and reach maturity in 3 years. These majestic birds practise monogamy - they remain with the same breeding partner for life. Literature has it that if one is widowed, they stay single till they die. They are omnivores, so like humans, they eat both meat and plants.

Contributors KALUNGI KABUYE

Kalungi is an award winning writer and photographer, and has been a journalist for more than 20 years. He has been editor of several magazines and newspapers in Uganda.

SOLOMON OLENY

Solomon is a creative, self driven professional travel journalist. He has worked with CNN on a documentary about tourism in Uganda, and is a recipient of nine Tourism Excellence Awards since the start of his journalism career in 2008.

Ngâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;aali Publisher Dora Barungi Editorial Director Adele Cutler Administrator Doreen Kabatesi DESIGN Designer Esther Nabaasa EDITORIAL Content Editor Pamela Nyamato Travel Editor Solomon Oleny Copy Editor James Mukanga

BRYAN AND DENA HAINES

Bryan and Dena are partners at Storyteller Media. They specialise in content marketing for travel brands, and blog in a number of places including ClickLikeThis, GringosAbroad, and GudGear.

MARK EVELEIGH

MARK NAMANYA

Joost is a photojournalist currently travelling through Eastern Africa. His work has been published in several online and print media like The Guardian, Apple, Lonely Planet, Amref Africa, Al Jazeera, and a wealth of others.

HASSAN SSENTONGO

ADELE CUTLER

Hassan is a writer and editor. He lives in Kampala, and currently serves as Creative Director at Satisfashion UG, an online platform that celebrates fashion. He is passionate about fashion and food.

Writers Adele Cutler, Joost Bastmeijer, Mark Eveleigh, Kalungi Kabuye, Solomon Oleny, Bryan Haines, Dena Haines, Mark Namanya, Hassan Ssentongo, Cassandra Lukwago, Edward Nimusiima, Michael Wakabi

Sales Executives Atukwase Clare Murekyezi Irene Kaitesi Diana B. Tayebwa Aggie Ninsiima

ADVERTISING AND SALES Sales and Marketing Director Richard Senkwale

JOOST BASTMEIJER

This acclaimed sports journalist has won multiple awards in his field. A former President of Uganda Sports Press Association (USPA), Mark's command of the sports language is unrivalled.

Mark, a frequent visitor to Uganda, has contributed 750+ full-length features to 100+ international publications, including BBC Wildlife, BBC Earth, Geographical, National Geographic Traveller and The Independent.

PHOTOGRAPHY Peter Hogel Dan Barongo

CONTRIBUTORS

Social Media Management Premier Advertising & Media Website Management EBC - Epic Business Consult PUBLISHED BY

Adele is passionate about wildlife and conservation and has worked promoting African tourism destinations to the world for 8 years. She believes that through the growth of tourism, everyone can benefit. Her favourite place is Uganda and she has a love for primates.

The views expressed in Ng'aali are not necessarily those of the editor, staff or publishers. Ng'aali is the registered trademark name of the Uganda Airlines inflight magazine. www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

Message from H.E YOWERI KAGUTA MUSEVENI

Uganda Airlines will grow and thrive The old Uganda Airlines died and in Africa when people die, they get buried! You cannot keep dead bodies in the house however much you love the deceased. My father and mother died, I had to bury them. The old Uganda Airlines was buried because it died. But when old people die, new ones are born. So this is the new baby, Uganda Airlines, flying the Crane to the Pearl!

“When you are mingling millet, you must wait for the water to heat up to a perfect temperature before you add flour to the mix. If you pour it in too early or too late, the millet will be spoilt and have an undesirable taste. That is the science of management. ”

Over 20 years ago, I was among the undertakers who organised funeral services for the burial of the old airline. But I am glad that I have been one of the midwives who have delivered the new baby. This new baby will grow and thrive because it is supported by four constituencies with a significant population, all of whom have great interest in travelling, especially in and out of Uganda. These are Ugandans in the diaspora who, thanks to their vast exposure and good education, now have jobs and established families. The second are Asians who were expelled from Uganda during President Idi Amin’s era, now wellestablished businesspeople in Europe and Canada. The third constituency are the businesspeople of Uganda, often travelling for trade to Dubai, China and regional cosmopolitans like Kenya. The fourth constituency are the tourists, whose numbers have been increasing despite having to endure lots of indirect flights to get to Uganda. That means they love Uganda. Imagine what will happen now that they will soon have direct flights from Dubai, Amsterdam and the other routes that the airline will be flying to. When I looked at the figures, it came to my understanding that Ugandans were spending over $400m a year on travel, and that’s a lot of money. We are talking of Uganda becoming a middle-income country, which according to the foreign exchange method is currently valued at $70b-90b. This translates to an average per capita of $1,700, and partly to blame for this is the fact that our importation and exportation ratios were imbalanced. By having an airline, we shall reduce on foreign exchange expenditure, since Ugandans will be spending on our airline. The economy of Uganda is growing by more than 6% - Uganda is moving forward and is unstoppable. I hereby thank the Cabinet, all ministries at the forefront of the airline, board members, Bagenda, Muleya and their team, the young pilots and the Parliament of Uganda, all of whom have worked tirelessly for the revival and forthcoming sustainability of Uganda Airlines. For God and my country!

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

CEO’s

Note Welcome aboard Uganda Airlines!

We will soon connect Uganda to all East African capitals as well as other cities in East, West, Central, North and Southern Africa, as we fulfill our mandate to link Uganda to the rest of Africa and the world.

inally, after two years of being a hot topic on social media, the Uganda Crane is here to fly you to and from the Pearl of Africa. Ours is the first airline in Africa to fly the CRJ900 with the new “atmosphere cabin”, which gives our passengers a more spacious and comfortable cabin experience on the regional network.

This fleet of aircraft was carefully selected with the passenger in mind. It offers comfortable seats with ample legroom, as well as lots of space in the overhead stowage bins for your carry-on baggage. The cabin ambiance is adjustable using mood lighting to help ensure an enjoyable and pleasant journey from boarding to disembarkation. We have the youngest fleet of aircraft in the industry today, having launched the airline with brand new aircraft. Our regional expansion plan started on August 28, 2019 when we launched flights from our hub in Entebbe to Nairobi in Kenya, Juba in South Sudan, Mogadishu in Somalia and Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. We will soon connect Uganda to all East African capitals as well as other cities in East, West, Central, North and Southern Africa, as we fulfil our mandate to link Uganda to the rest of Africa and the world. The launch of the national airline signals a new dawn in the history of our country and is testimony to all that Uganda is open for business. The airline also brings more opportunities for foreign direct investment in many sectors of Uganda's economy tourism, hotel, restaurant, agriculture, retail, oil & gas and many others. It also heralds Uganda’s re-entry into the ever-growing and expanding aviation industry. Uganda is a country of many landscapes, rivers, lakes, national parks abundant with

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

wildlife, as well as many kingdoms, diverse cultures and people. Located along the equator line and in the middle of the Great Lakes region, Uganda has the best climate in Africa, with moderate temperatures averaging 250C throughout the year. This rich heritage has rightfully earned it the name “The Pearl of Africa”. We carry “the spirit of Uganda” wherever we go and when you fly with us, you will experience the authenticity and warmth of our people and a caring and welcoming attitude. You can help us improve our service by following us on facebook, twitter, instagram and on our website www. ugandairlines.com. Kindly inform us of your flight experiences with us. We are thankful to our shareholder, the Government of Uganda, which birthed the vision to launch such a high-quality airline in our region. The year 2019 will indeed be one of many firsts for us as we seek to fly you across the region and beyond. We hope to be your airline of choice as we further expand our regional network and connect Uganda to the overseas markets of Dubai, London, Guangzhou and others, with brand new A330-800neo aircraft in 2020. Our inflight magazine shares a wealth of information about our destinations. In this maiden edition, partake of regaling tales about the Pearl of Africa and what it has to offer, and special features on Kenya, Burundi, Tanzania, Somalia and South Sudan. We are delighted that you have chosen to fly with us and wish you a pleasant experience on our ultra-modern CRJ900 aircraft. Cornwell Muleya CEO Uganda Airlines

The Kampala Bell A short history of aviation in Uganda Words by Michael Wakabi

itting daintily under a gentle light in a corner of the British Airways Heritage Centre at Waterside, across from Heathrow International Airport, is an object that is likely to be of interest to aviation enthusiasts and lovers of Bell Lager in equal measure. Engraved in faint type on one side of its waist is the word KAMPALA. Aptly called the “Kampala Bell”, the well-kept artefact’s history is closely tied to the story of aviation in Uganda. Back in the 1930s, its loud ring used to alert travellers and workers to the arrival or impending departure of a flight at Port Bell in Luzira, when the port served as a dock not just for the ferries and other vessels that plied Lake Victoria’s ports, but also Imperial Airways’ flying boats that operated the service between London and Cape Town. Port Bell was an intermediate stop between Khartoum and Kisumu which was known as Port Florence back then. The bell at each landing ‘port’ had the name of the place inscribed on it. While there was obviously a Kisumu Bell too, it is the Kampala Bell that has a place of honour among the hundreds of artefacts in the British Airways collection. The Kisumu Bell probably lies somewhere in someone’s private collection or some other museum. As the Flying Crane returns to the regional skies, it is an opportune moment to reflect on the history of aviation in Uganda. According to records, Port Bell, named after Sir Henry Hesketh Bell, the first imperial governor of Uganda, was the first 'landing strip' for aircraft in the country. The first commercial flight, operated by Wilson Airways, the forerunner of the defunct East African Airways and the current national carriers of Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania, landed at Port Bell around 1929. The flight carried mail for the colonial authorities and the burgeoning business community, made up mostly of Indian settlers. In 1930, Port Bell became an intermediate stop for a commercial service that was operated between London and Cape Town by Imperial Airways (one of the forerunners of British Airways). Port Bell provided a bridge between Khartoum and Kisumu along the perilous route that also went through Dar es Salaam and Victoria Falls in present-day Zambia, known as Northern Rhodesia back then. In the absence of aviation infrastructure, water landings were a practical alternative and flying boats and other aircraft equipped with floats for the purpose were, for a while, all the rage in many parts of the world. Kololo Airstrip, Uganda’s first airport, opened in 1936. Main operations shifted to Entebbe when the first runway 18/35 (at what is now called the Old Airport) opened there in 1949. The current UN base and Eagle Air hangar sit on the site of this now defunct runway. In 1951, the longer runway 12/30 was opened during the official launch of the airport facility. Queen Elizabeth, still a princess at the time, presided over the opening. The current Entebbe Airport opened in 1973 with runway 17/35. The shape of what would later become separate flag carriers for the three East African territories began to take form in the 1940s when the British government bought and consolidated Wilson Airlines and Imperial Airways into a single carrier. The new carrier eventually became East African Airways (EAA) in 1947 with Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania having an equal share.

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

However, this massive airline, which connected East Africa to many points on the globe, would later collapse in the acrimony that culminated in the breakup of the East African Community. Hemmed in by international sanctions and mounting tensions within the East African Community, Uganda decided to set up its own carrier in May 1976, which took to the skies in mid-1977 as the East African Community fell apart and with it EAA. Uganda Airlines IATA code QU, started operations with a fleet comprising a single Boeing 707-302 Combi, a Fokker Friendship 27 and a BN Trilander. A Lockheed Hercules C-130 and another Boeing 707-300 were added later. The long-haul network served London (Gatwick), Brussels, Rome and Cologne in Europe, and several points in Africa. However, economic upheaval and political instability weighed heavily on the carrier. After a period of sustained losses, a decision was taken to dissolve Uganda Airlines in 2001. The vacuum it left was temporarily filled by two startups — Africa One and East African Airlines — which were promoted but folded within a year of setting up. For three years, Uganda did not have a mainline designated airline until Victoria International Airways (VIA-Uganda), the shortlived venture between the government of Uganda and South African investors, took to the skies in late 2006. However, it collapsed in January the following year. VIA-Uganda was succeeded by Air Uganda, a private airline that was promoted by the Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development. It launched commercial services in November 2007 and was in business until July 2014 when it was grounded by the Civil Aviation Authority. The vacuum that its departure created and the spike in airfares prompted calls for the revival of a government flag carrier. In 2016, the National Planning Authority commenced studies on the re-establishment of a national carrier. A task force to drive the revival was set up in early 2018 culminating in the selection of Bombardier CRJ-900 for the regional feeder fleet, while the Airbus A330-800neo was selected for the long-haul fleet. Orders for four CRJ-900 and two A330-800s were signed during the Farnborough Air Show in July 2018, setting a firm course for the revival. In April 2019, the new carrier took delivery of the first two CRJ 900s that arrived at Entebbe in tandem. The remaining two are due for delivery before the end of the year while the first A330 is scheduled for delivery in December 2020. That will set the stage for the resumption of services to Europe and Asia. Given the turbulent history of aviation in Uganda, the return of Uganda Airlines, operating under IATA call sign UR, has been received with a degree of scepticism. Nevertheless, supporters believe it has a better chance of survival than its previous iterations because it enters the market on a sound technological and governance footing. Unlike its predecessors, who were severely undercapitalised and operated after-market aircraft that were too big for many of the routes they operated, UR has started operations with brand new equipment that is better optimised for the route network. The government, which is the sole shareholder, is financially committed to supporting the airline and so far, it is the first airline in the region to start operations debt free.

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BUSINESS TRAVELLER

Things to know about the Ugandan

SHILLING

Coming to Uganda? You are welcome! Learn how to handle your money while using ATMs, credit cards, and travellers cheques. Words by Bryan Haines

ganda is mostly a cash-based society, and the country’s official currency is the Uganda shilling (UGX). You may discover that many airlines, hotels, safari agencies and the Uganda Wildlife Authority will charge you in US dollars, but you can pay in Uganda shillings if you wish. Elsewhere in Uganda, you will most likely find it easier to use Uganda Shillings. Would you believe that Uganda's currency has changed seven times in the last 50 years? After Uganda’s independence from Great Britain in 1962 and consequently the collapse of the Eastern African Currency Board in 1966, Bank of Uganda introduced its first banknotes of 5, 10 and 20 shillings. As Uganda politics evolved and changed with various leaders, so did the currency, with many different banknotes being introduced and modified to reflect the leadership present at the time. The latest change was in May 2010. The current Uganda bank notes are in denominations of 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 2,000 and 1,000 shillings. The current Uganda coins are 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1,000 shillings. When you take a look at the emblems on Uganda's banknotes, and you will get an insight into the country’s natural, cultural, and historical heritage. For example, on the 50,000 shilling note, you will see an image of the Independence Monument, a Crested Crane, Bwindi tropical rainforest, silverback mountain gorillas and the outline of a man wearing a Karimojong headdress. The International Banknote Society has rated this Ugandan banknote as one of the most beautiful in the world. The 20,000 shilling note depicts the country’s coat of arms, a traditional drum, the great Nile River, the Parliament building in Kampala and the Uganda Kob. You will also see symbols of coffee and cotton because these two cash crops are important to the country’s economy. Musical instruments on the 10,000 shilling note signify Uganda’s musical heritage, while the Coat of Arms symbol displays spears and the waves of Lake Victoria. On the backside of this note, you will see

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

an image of Kiira Hydroelectric Power Station. In addition to the coat of arms on the 5,000 shilling note, you will see illustrations of Lake Bunyonyi and the MV Kaawa Ferry on Lake Victoria. On the 2,000 shilling note are the illustrations of the Speke Memorial, an outline map of Uganda with the equator, a woman lifting a child high, River Nile and the Crested Crane. The 1,000 shilling note depicts Uganda’s agriculture with symbols of a farmer working on a banana plantation and trucks in front of grain silos. Six counterfeit security features Uganda is the first country in Africa to use the advanced optical security feature against counterfeiting known as SPARK. Other security features on Uganda banknotes include: 1. High-quality paper that is difficult to reproduce 2. A watermark image of the Crested Crane with the denomination below the beak 3. Special thread woven into the paper that changes colour when tilted 4. Foiled images on each denomination that change patterns when viewed from different angles 5. See-through section that displays symbols from the back and front sides simultaneously when held to the light 6. Advanced optical security feature (SPARK) Stability of the Uganda Shilling The Uganda Shilling is a stable, convertible Uganda currency that floats against foreign currency on the international market. As a tourist, this means that you can exchange your home currency for shillings to pay for products and services anywhere in Uganda. However, you will find that the euro (EUR), Great Britain pound (GBP) and the US dollar (USD) are used frequently throughout Uganda. Many tour operators - such as those that operate gorilla

BUSINESS TRAVELLER trekking tours - and upscale hotels, often quote in US dollars, but you can use Uganda shillings to make payments. When travelling to Uganda, you can exchange your home currency for Uganda currency before departure or after arrival. In Uganda, banks and forex bureaus in major towns will convert your money into the local currency. When exchanging your money into Uganda shillings, it is recommended that you request smaller banknotes because you may find it difficult to obtain change for larger notes in some places. Plus, smaller notes make it easier when tipping. If you are travelling from the United States, you must know that Uganda does not accept dollar bills printed before 2006 due to previous experiences of forgery. Also, you should make sure your bills are in good condition when exchanging them for Uganda shillings to ensure acceptance. If you want to get the best possible exchange rate after arriving in Uganda, the best place to do so is in Kampala, the country’s capital city. If you are planning on gorilla trekking or going on a wildlife safari, the UWA (Uganda Wildlife Authority) accepts euros, dollars and pounds and will also offer you fair currency exchange rates for gorilla permits and national park fees. Before travelling to Uganda, you can go online and check various financial websites for the prevailing exchange rate. Some of the more widely known sites include Google Finance, Yahoo! Finance and OANDA. Using ATMs in Uganda If you wish to use an ATM while in Uganda, you will most likely need a Visa debit or credit card because Visa is what is preferred in this country. The best places to use an ATM machine are the largest and most common banks found throughout the country, which include Barclays (now ABSA), Crane, Stanbic, Orient,

Centenary and Standard Chartered. You will find at least one of these banks even in smaller towns. Tips for using ATMs in Uganda prior to travelling • Alert your home bank that you will be using your card in Uganda or else it may be rejected • Beware of the daily cash withdrawal limit • Use ATMs that offer privacy and protect your PIN as you punch it in • Do not accept assistance from volunteers at an ATM • Try not to let your cash run out because you may find some ATMs out of order or under maintenance Using your credit card in Uganda Credit cards are not as widely used in Uganda as in other countries except in major hotels, restaurants and safari lodges. You should be aware that when using your credit card in Uganda, a surcharge of anywhere between 5% and 15% could be added to your bill. If you do choose to use a credit card, you will need to use a Visa because most other cards are not accepted, except on occasion, MasterCard. Should you use travellers cheques in Uganda? With the exception of major international banks such as Barclays, Stanbic and Standard Chartered, it is probably not a good idea to use travellers cheques in Uganda since many places will either not accept them or will exchange them at a low rate with extra fees. A little travel insurance is always a good idea. It covers emergency medical care, and some policies will cover your belongings, including your camera and documents.

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SPORTS

The rise of

Denis Masinde Onyango

Uganda Cranes may not be one of the premier teams in Africa, but in Onyango, they possess a goalkeeper who would dislodge every other custodian on the continent for club or country. Words by Mark Namanya 18

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

t takes extraordinary talent for a non-outfield footballer to be the best player of a team that is bound for the continent’s most prestigious soccer tournament. More often than not, the best player on a team is a scorer of many goals or a great goal scorer. When that isn’t the case, the outstanding player on a squad is a playmaker; that rare breed of footballer who will turn the game on its head with one deft pass in a match evenly poised. In Uganda, the best player is the man between the sticks. For the Uganda Cranes, the most remarkable talent in the entire bunch is a man whose reflex shot-stopping and imposing presence have frustrated attacking footballers over the years. There is no player in the country quite like Denis Masinde Onyango, the 35-year-old custodian who has made the number one national team jersey his own for nearly a decade and a half. To appreciate the magnitude of the Mamelodi Sundowns' goalkeeper’s fame, you had to be in Cairo where the Uganda Cranes were based during the 2019 Africa Cup of Nations in June and July. Mohamed Salah, the Egyptian superstar, may have been the poster boy of the hosts, but Onyango rivalled him in fame and popularity. In Giza, Maadi and Heliopolis, Onyango’s was the name on the lips of most locals. In fact it is possible that Onyango, having played in the era of television and social media, has surpassed Philip Omondi, the most famous footballer to have come out of Uganda. Omondi will always be the greatest but he never won as much as Onyango has managed today, be it individually or otherwise. What is beyond dispute is that Onyango is the best goalkeeper on the continent today and the finest to have played in goal for the Cranes.

Humble beginnings Having grown up in the Nsambya slum in Kampala, Onyango was spotted by former SC Villa coach Micho Sredojevic during a first division game for Sharing FC, before being offered trials at the Jogoos in 2003. Villa were the country’s leading side at the time, having won the country’s top division a record seven titles in a row, but it is a measure of the teenage Onyango’s talent that he was entrusted to keep goal for the champions. When Micho left SC Villa for St. George in Ethiopia in 2005, he promptly took Onyango with him in what would be the beginning of a nomadic relationship for both — one that has passed the test of time. To date they are still in touch but on opposite ends in the PSL of South Africa; Onyango at Mamelodi Sundowns and Micho coaching Orlando Pirates. Onyango’s brilliance caught the radar of SuperSport United in South Africa in 2006 and he headed down south to embark on a period of mental resilience, persistence, frustration, determination and focus to prove that he wouldn’t join the long list of Ugandans whose careers in the PSL were flashes in the pan. There were stints at Mpumalanga Black Aces and Bidvest Wits that tested his mettle before the move to Mamelodi Sundowns came. There has always been a school of thought that Onyango never quite possessed the natural goalkeeping ingenuity of Sadiq Wassa, who was the country’s first choice keeper for most of the late 80s into the early and mid-90s. But what Onyango has been blessed with is a single-mindedness to cope with adversity, a belief in his own self and an insatiable appetite to achieve greatness. It is this steely focus that has allowed him to be national goalkeeper for 14 years. Nothing suggests he has slowed down. It is the same drive that has had him voted Africa’s Best Goalkeeper on three separate occasions. Undoubtedly, the highlight of his career was being voted Best Africabased Footballer of The Year 2016. It was the first and last award of its kind by CAF and Onyango will forever cherish that distinction of being the only player in history to earn that recognition.

SPORTS

In the same year, the father of four became the first and still only Ugandan to win the Caf Champions League winner’s medal. For this glorious achievement, local soccer governing body FUFA awarded him a plot of land. Onyango is a six-time winner of the PSL (three apiece with Supersport United and Mamelodi Sundowns). He has also won the Nedbank Cup, Telkom Cup and the Caf Super Cup. In 2016, he was ranked the 10th best goalkeeper in the world on a list compiled by the International Federation of Football History & Statistics.

National team career As with every footballer, the true mark of exceptional talent is being summoned to the national team regularly despite the recurrent changing of coaches. Onyango has outlived six national team coaches — Mohammed Abbas, Laszlo Csaba, Bobby Williamson, Micho Sredojevic, Moses Basena (interim) and Sebastien Desabre — and will soon serve under a seventh. He was part of the historic team in early September 2016 that ended Uganda’s four-decade Afcon qualification pain, and although the Cranes bowed out in the group stages, he performed admirably and emerged with his reputation intact. After the retirement of Geoffrey Massa, who was captain of the 2017 Afcon in Gabon, Onyango was naturally promoted to captain having been the former’s deputy. During the 2019 Afcon campaign, he was arguably the team’s most outstanding player as the Cranes played back-to-back qualifiers without conceding a goal. “I have said for years that Onyango is the best goalkeeper in Africa and he proved it during this qualification campaign,” a beaming FUFA President Moses Magogo said after the 1-0 win over Cape Verde sealed Uganda’s place in Cairo. During the competition, Onyango pulled off one of the saves of the tournament in the 1-1 draw against Zimbabwe that helped Uganda reach the knock-out stage of Afcon for the first time in 41 years. Uganda Cranes may not quite be one of the premier teams on the African continent, but in Onyango they possess a goalkeeper who would dislodge every other custodian on the continent for club or country. Denis Onyango intercepts Mohammed Salah's

attempt to score at close range - 2019 Africa Cup of Nations in Cairo, Egypt.

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SPORTS

World Cup:

She Cranes come of age in Liverpool Ugandan netball is in safe hands, and regardless of whether Lilian Ajio, Ruth Meeme, Stella Nanfuka, Stella Oyella and Racheal Nanyonga return to this stage or not; She Cranes have the weaponry to be even better in four years' time. Words by Mark Namanya 2019 WC Results England

64-32

Uganda

-L

Uganda

69-48

Samoa

-W

Uganda

52-43

Scotland

-W

Trinidad

54-57

Uganda

-W

South Africa

67-40

Uganda

-L

Jamaica

61-48

Uganda

-L

Malawi Uganda

55-44

Uganda

-L

58-47

Zimbabwe - W

Right: Uganda's Goal Shooter, Mary Nuba Cholokh, in action at the 2019 Netball World Cup in Liverpool. 20

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

he World Cup in team sport is the highest stratum of competition on the globe. Qualification for the World Cup is always a gruelling effort, but that energy pales in comparison to the battle on the grand stage. In July, Uganda’s She Cranes arrived in Liverpool to compete at the third World Cup in history and the country was watching keenly both with hope and expectation. The girls travelled to England hoping to leave a mark on the biggest stage of netball. In the end, they flew out of Liverpool after registering Uganda’s best performance at the World Cup. From finishing 13th in the 1979 Trinidad & Tobago edition to eighth in the 2015 World Cup in Australia, Uganda now proudly sits as the seventh best side on the globe. The vast development in Uganda’s netball is down to several factors, not least the exposure enjoyed by the country’s two leading Goal Shooters — Peace Proscovia and Mary Nuba Cholhok. In particular, Proscovia, 29, has been the team’s cornerstone from the time she earned a life-changing scholarship to Loughborough University, playing for Lightning, their netball outfit in the United Kingdom. The former basketballer, now goal shooting for Australian topflight champions — Sunshine Lightning, is easily one of the finest in her position in the world and has helped showcase the quality of netball talent that abounds in Uganda. In the four years Proscovia spent at Loughborough Lightning, she led the team to two Superleague Grand finals and a memorable Fast5 triumph. She was also named Player of the Season, Player’s Player of the Season and Golden Shooter of the Season. It is why Nuba found it easy to replace her idol at Loughborough after Proscovia secured a good contract in Australia. Nuba also won Golden Shooter of the season.

SPORTS Liverpool Display Uganda’s opening game at the World Cup was always going to be a tall order against one of the teams with designs on the trophy. England were not just hosts; they were a team chasing their first title triumph after near misses in 1975, 1987 and 1995 where they lost in the final. They were also a team buoyed by their marginal 52-51 win over 11-time world champions Australia to win the 2018 Commonwealth Games trophy. The Roses duly beat Uganda 64-32 to set the tone for the tournament where they would finish third. Stung by that heavy defeat, the She Cranes bounced back and mauled Samoa 69-48 before following that impressive win with a magnificent 52-43 victory over Scotland. For all the attention around Proscovia, Stella Oyella came into her element and shone as a Goal Attacker for the team. She would wind up the World Cup with three "Woman of the Match" awards and Uganda’s highest scoring efficiency rating of 91% after sinking 121 of her 133 shots. Second Phase Uganda easily made it to the second phase of the World Cup, comprising two six-team groups. The top two would advance to the semi-finals and the rest for placement matches. The She Cranes beat Trinidad & Tobago 57-54 but their loss to South Africa all but ended Uganda’s hopes of reaching an unlikely first semi-final. From then on, it became a matter of playing impressively in the classification games for Uganda to earn an impressive finish and ranking at the conclusion of the tournament. The two subsequent games were morale-sapping defeats to Jamaica and Malawi that appeared to have taken the sting out of coach Vincent Kiwanuka’s girls. The 55-44 reversal against Malawi was most galling seeing as how Uganda had beaten them more than thrice in recent meetings going into that all-Africa showdown. The loss also meant that Uganda had lost three straight games at the World Cup, but the team recovered admirably in the final to defeat Zimbabwe 58-47 and end the World Cup on a high. The seventh-place finish was an improvement for Uganda at World Cup level and not surprisingly, the country will be pursuing a higher finish come South Africa 2023. Better Statistics By every account, this World Cup leaves Ugandan netball in better shape. There were marked improvements in just about every department in the She Cranes from the 2015 World Cup to this. In Australia for instance, Uganda scored 396 goals from 466 shots, but in Liverpool, the girls hit the 400-goal mark after just 449 attempts. In defence, Uganda gave away 435 goals en route to finishing eighth. But in this year’s competition, the She Cranes only let in 392, a huge leap in frugal play. Even the defeats were more respectable in Liverpool than they were in Sydney in 2015. Where New Zealand was obliterating Uganda 76-33 four years ago, the She Cranes www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

SPORTS were limiting England to a 64-32 victory â&#x20AC;&#x201D; not quite small but an improvement over a four-year span. The Way Forward South Africa 2023 is four years away, but the clock has started ticking. The She Cranes and netball in the bigger scheme of things are affected by a dearth of facilities needed to enable best preparations for the biggest competition in the world. To bridge the gap, the government plans to build one or two modern indoor facilities to nurture a new generation of netballers. One area of utmost importance is strength and conditioning, which the four best teams in the competition (New Zealand, Australia, England and South Africa), had in abundance. To match the best in terms of endurance, the She Cranes training will be channelled in that direction. A sustained pattern throughout all of Ugandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s games at the last three major competitions (2015 World Cup, 2018 Commonwealth Games and 2019 World Cup) has been a tendency to start well but tire towards the end. To rid the team of that problem will take improved physical strength and conditioning against the very best the world has to offer. What is certain is that Ugandan netball is in safe hands and regardless of whether Lilian Ajio, Ruth Meeme, Stella Nanfuka, Oyella and Racheal Nanyonga return to this stage or not, the She Cranes have the weaponry to go on better in four years' time. The Uganda Netball Federation will only have to reflect on the Liverpool campaign to ensure that the team maintains the trend of improving with every World Cup.

Below: The She Cranes observing the Uganda anthem before a 2019 Netball World Cup game at the Vitality Arena in Liverpool. The team finished sixth.

Above right: The She Cranes celebrating impressive performances at this year's Netball World Cup in Liverpool, England. Right: At last year's Comonwealth Games in Gold Coast, Australia.

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

Welcome to IUEA, the Academic City, where all programs are designed to meet the outcome levels required for International accreditation. Accordingly, getting a degree from IUEA will give you the qualifications you need to be successful internationally. We also offer programs to continue your education towards Masters (MBA & MIT) and Doctorate of Philosophy (PhD). IUEA provides value based quality education to our students, assuring their parents they are in safe hands. For students coming directly from A Levels, IUEA offers Foundation program (pre-university program) designed to bridge their learning needs and enable them to pursue a bachelor’s degree program of their choice at IUEA. IUEA is a pioneer of the ‘Inspired Learning’ approach to higher education. Its academic delivery model goes beyond classroom education to provide a holistic learning experience for our students. The university, through its innovative methods, has created an ecosystem of teaching and research excellence that is based on the 6 pillars of Inspired Learning: 1. Instill a culture of research & innovation 2. Provide a hands-on learning experience 3. Ensure exposure to diverse disciplines & cultures 4. N urture entrepreneurs & ideas 5. Enhance employability 6. Encourage merit through scholarships We look forward to seeing you soon at IUEA!

Prof. Emeka Akaezuwa Vice Chancellor

(PhD Information System and Structures)

Faculty of Business & Management

Diploma in Public Administration Diploma in Business Administration Bachelor of Business Administration Bachelor of Public Administration Bachelor of Human Resource Management Bachelor of Procurement & Logistics Management Bachelor of Tourism Operations & Management Master of Business Administration (MBA)

Dr. Sylvia Rita Atoko Dean Faculty of Business & Management IUEA

Faculty of Science & Technology

CISCO Diploma in Computer Science Bachelor of Information Technology Bachelor of Science in Computer Science Bachelor of Science in Environmental Science & Management Bachelor of Science in Software Engineering Master of Information Technology (MIT)

Dr. Lakshmi Bhabuu Dean Faculty of Science & Technology IUEA

Faculty of Engineering

Diploma in Architecture Diploma in Civil Engineering Diploma in Electrical Engineering Bachelor of Science in Petroleum Engineering Bachelor of Science in Civil Engineering Bachelor of Science in Electrical Engineering Bachelor of Science in Mobile & Satellite Communication Bachelor of Science in Mining Engineering Bachelor of Architecture

Centre of Languages & Professional Skills

Certificate in French Certificate in Chinese Certificate in German Certificate in English (Beginner, Elementary & Intermediate) Certificate in Business English

Faculty of Law

Ms. Nancy Ilamwenya Head of Centre of Languages & Professional Skills IUEA

Prof. Agasha Mugasha Dean Faculty of Law IUEA

Bachelor of Law

www.iuea.ac.ug

Prof. Dawoud Shenouda Dean Faculty of Business & Management IUEA

(+256) 705 722300

Kansanga, Kampala, Uganda

EVENTS CALENDAR

Royal Ascot Goat Races 12th October

The Royal Ascot Goat Races at Speke Resort Munyonyo slated for Saturday, October 12th, embody thrill, are a perfect family day out and a major event on Kampala’s ever-growing social circuit that everybody wants to be seen at. First conceived by Entebbe Sailing Club, the first goat race was held in 1993 at Kampala Rugby Club. When Entebbe Sailing Club was trying to raise money for various development ventures, a club member, who was a friend of a horse breeder, suggested goat racing as a fundraising event. Over the years, the growth in scale and rising costs involved in setting up the venue led to the decision to make the event a fullday affair and model it on the famous Royal Ascot Horse Races in England, complete with all the trimmings, and most importantly, the opportunity to dress for the occasion with particular emphasis on impressive and unusual hats. In 1999, the event moved to Speke Resort Munyonyo, which has been its home since.

Uganda Ultra Circuit Race 13th October Activate Uganda is pleased to welcome you and your friends to the second edition of the Uganda Ultra Circuit Race. The race is scheduled for October 13, 2019. Starting at Entebbe Sailing Club, this endurance race is run on a 2.3km circuit for six hours, from 7:00am to 1:00pm. Activate Uganda will award a GOLD MEDAL to all those who will run 15 or more complete laps within the set time. 24

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

The 30th Anniversary All Music Safari 30th November

On Saturday, November 30th, 2019 at Lugogo Cricket Oval, Tshaka Roots Mayanja will be celebrating 30 years of serving the music industry in Uganda. Grammy and MTV award-winning, multiplatinum-selling Soul-R&B Princess, MÝA, will headline the Soul-R&B session of the festival. Several Ugandan musicians/vocalists/instrumentalists will be on stage to perform several genres: Jazz, Soul-R&B, Reggae, Funk, Afro Beat, Congolese Rhumba and Afro Soul.

“So much of who we are is where we've been.” William Langewiesche

Uganda Snapped Photography Exhibition 14th November

Africa Big Birding Expo 6th-8th December Uganda has over 1,060 bird species, so it's no wonder that over 200,000 Avi-tourists flock to our wild parks every year. Accordingly, Uganda is organising the third African Birding Expo at Botanical Gardens Entebbe. Set for 6th-8th December, it will be attended by a whole spectrum of the birdwatching community within and outside Africa. It's open to the public and entrance is free. According to Herbert Byaruhanga, its founder, there will be stands selling products related to birdwatching and nature conservation during the event. These will include scopes, binoculars, guide books, tours, foods, clothes, and any other related equipment. There will be tour operators, hoteliers, conservation organisations, travel agents and airline officials. The event is going to be the climax of an ongoing drive that is tailored to catapult Uganda into a premium birding destination to both domestic and international tourists.

The Abryanz Style and Fashion Awards 13th December

Matthias Mugisha, an award-winning Ugandan nature photographer, is organising his second annual two-month photo exhibition dubbed 'Uganda Snapped' in collaboration with Sheraton Kampala Hotel. Mugisha was voted best Tourism Photographer in the 2018-2019 Ekkula Tourism Awards. The exhibition will feature Uganda's wildlife, landscapes and cultures and will be launched on November 14th 2019 by the Minister of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, Prof. Ephraim Kamuntu. Uganda, in terms of tourism, is still virgin territory but with tremendous potential. One of the striking observations is that some Ugandans do not know the beauty of their country. The best way to sell and promote Uganda is to bring the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural endowments closer to the people through images, thus the need for the 'Uganda Snapped' photo exhibition. Photo by Matthias Mugisha

The Abryanz Style and Fashion Awards (ASFAs) is an African fashion award ceremony that celebrates and acknowledges fashion industry stakeholders including fashion designers, stylists, hair and makeup artists, media personalities and influencers on the African Continent and beyond her borders. This event is held annually in Uganda since 2013. The ASFAs event is an evening of glitz and glamour and one of the biggest red carpet events in Africa. It is a true celebration of fashion and style, with A-List guests from across the continent.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

LIFESTYLE

Sleepless in Kampala Kampala, a city of about two million people, is the entertainment capital of East Africa and, unlike Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan in Seattle, being sleepless in Kampala can be quite an enjoyable adventure.

Words by Kalungi Kabuye

here was a party, then another one. Before that one had ended, another started, and yet another. It was party after party, after party, after party. In actual fact, ‘Party after Party’ is the name of a very popular song in Uganda right now, sung by a local rapper named Big Trill, but to the residents of Kampala, it is more than just lyrics - it is literally a way of life. Ugandans are hardworking people, and the country is ranked as the world’s most entrepreneurial by the Global Entrepreneurship Monitor (GEM), but after all the hard work, they also like to party hard, and Kampala is where most of it happens.

The pubs and kafundas

If you really want to experience Kampala’s mottled nightlife, check out the pubs, which are literally everywhere. Wherever you go, from the Central Business District to its many suburbs, you will find pubs flowing out of your ears. The story of Kampala’s pubs is an interesting one, shaped mostly by the long years of the ‘troubles’. Beginning in the 1970s, socialising in public became a very dangerous activity, and pubs were a death trap in case an unruly armed soldier decided he wanted to have some fun, so people resorted to sitting outside grocery shops that sold alcohol on the side. Sitting on hard benches, it was easy to see trouble coming your way and thus manage a quick getaway. Those shops became known as ‘kafundas’, literally meaning ‘a narrow place’ in Luganda. There were no amenities, the beers were served warm

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

because there was often no power to run the fridges, and open bathrooms were the order of the day. Kafundas quickly became the centre of social life in Kampala and beyond; both business and romance met in kafundas. Many of them became social communities, and at times even had elected members to ‘take care of business’, which included helping out fellow members in difficult times. As the Ugandan economy gradually improved, people became more discerning and wanted better places to have their beer. At first the kafundas tried to upgrade, replacing the hard wooden benches with more comfortable plastic chairs, and adding bathrooms at the back. In the end, however, the more traditional pubs took over; but if you’re lucky, you might run into a kafunda in the suburbs, and the members will tell you stories of the ‘good old times’ gone by. Probably partly due to the kafunda, but mainly due to the very fair Kampala weather, most pubs in Kampala have a large open air section. They have the traditional bar counter with bar stools, but most folks like sitting out in the open. There are no real worries about rain, since a typical Kampala shower might last for all of 5 minutes. So the patrons dash for shelter, and go back outside when the rain stops. Pubs are where most of the entertainment happens, and they have largely replaced the discotheques, many of which have since closed doors; clubs like Club Silk, Club T1, Ambiance, Basement, Club Pa Lui and others are no more. What happened was that pubs invested in sound equipment, were cheaper, did not charge entrance fees, and some even had dance floors. So folks could go to a pub, buy cheap beer, and dance to the music.

LIFESTYLE

Photos from Blankets And Wine XXIII. The next edition of Blankets And Wine will take place on Dec 15th 2019.

Who needs nightclubs? In fact the only nightclub still opening its doors is Guvnor, in Kampala’s industrial area. Pubs also moved away from the CBD to the suburbs, so one does not need to go a long distance to have some fun. Almost every suburb has one major pub that most people go to, from Ntinda’s Old Timerz, Najeera’s Nexus Lounge, Bukoto’s Cayenne, to Makindye’s Comrade Bar.

Bugolobi and Kabalagala

Bugolobi is fast taking away Kabalagala’s reputation as Kampala’s main entertainment hub. For the longest time, Kabalagala was referred to as Kampala’s ‘red district’. However, the city authorities have recently cracked down on illegal structures and noise pollution, which has made the pubs there less attractive to revellers. As a result, Bugolobi has become a cleaner, more high-end version of Kabalagala. Bandali Rise used to be a residential area at one time, but it has now been taken over by pubs and restaurants. At the bottom of the hill is GattoMatto, then there is Monot Bar, the Alchemist, Bamboo Nest at the top of the hill, and Gabiro a bit further on. Unfortunately, Jazz Ville, the only jazz club in the city, closed a few months ago.

No closing hours

The best thing about Kampala pubs is that they don’t follow any opening hours regulations, although the laws are on the books. These pubs are open as long as there is a customer, and sometimes even when empty, in the hope that one last reveller will show up for ‘one for the road’. In fact there are some pubs that open at 6am, and that’s where the diehards go when all the other pubs eventually close.

Live music

Many pubs in Kampala have regular gigs by live bands, and each day of the week there is at least one live band playing somewhere. One of the most frequently asked questions on social media is, ‘where is a live band tonight?’ and answers will come in galore. A very popular one is Uganda’s oldest and arguably most popular band, Afrigo, which performs at Club Guvnor every last Friday of the month.

Eateries

There are plenty of restaurants in Kampala, some catering to specialised tastes like Chinese, Indian, Ethiopian, West African, Korean, Greek, Congolese and Japanese. However, almost every self-respecting pub has a functional kitchen, and offers both local and international cuisine. The more polished ones serve 3-course dinners. Also popular with the locals and tourists alike is street food - with the locals because it is cheap, and with the tourists for the exotic experience. One can get all kinds of roasted and barbequed meat, but the favourite dish, served piping hot, is what is referred to as the ‘rolex’, an omelette wrapped in a chapatti. Tourists just love the rolex!

Getting around

Unlike New York, the original sleepless city, there is no subway, and no trains or buses, but at every night spot, there are cabs referred to in Kampala as ‘special hire taxis’, to differentiate them from the minivan ‘taxis’ that ply the roads during daytime. A cheaper and safer option would be Uber. For the more adventurous, boda bodas (motor-bike taxis) are available, but it is advised to use the ones summoned via an app, like Uber, Taxify and Safe Boda.

Festivals

Another big Kampala attraction is that almost every weekend, there is one festival or another happening. The more popular ones include Blankets And Wine, Roast and Rhyme, Arts and Culture Festival, Tuzzine Festival, Rolex Festival, Oktoberfest, and a whole host of others. All of these, including the food festivals, turn into a party once the sun goes down.

Security

Most night spots in Kampala are safe. One gets screened before entry, and guns and other weapons are left with security guards. All in all, Kampala is still a relatively safe place, compared to other cities in the region.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

How I travel

Amos Wekesa

CEO Great Lakes Safaris and Uganda Lodges (Primate Lodge Kibale, Elephant Plains Lodge, Budongo Eco Lodge and Simba Safari Camp).

Muhereza Kyamutetera

Chairman, Kyamutetera Holdings, founder and publisher of CEO Magazine, a product driven by the belief that every business is a story that deserves to be shared.

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

Q: What is your favourite destination in the world? A: I love Uganda's Murchison Falls National Park, a Big 5 destination in Northern Uganda. Here, my favourite nature walk trail is a 45-minute hike from the bottom of Murchison Falls to its top. The experience offers electrifying views of what is likely one of the most powerful waterfall in the world. Q: Is there anything you can't imagine travelling without? A: Yeah sure, my travel kit. It accommodates my toothpaste and toothbrush, plus my passport. Q:What is the most daring thing you have ever done? A: My boys dared me to go on a rollercoaster ride at Disneyland Germany. Let's just say I will never do it again! Q. What is the most scenic place you have flown over? A: Recently, some friends and I took a helicopter ride from Entebbe and flew over Lake Victoria and the meandering River Nile to Pakuba Lodge in Murchison Falls National Park. On our way back, we flew over Lake Albert to Kyenjojo in Rwenzori Region, hovering over countless crater lakes, and ended up in Queen Elizabeth National Park. I have travelled far and wide, but never have I seen such beauty.

Q. What is your favourite travel destination in the world? A. I have travelled to many places, but frankly I like traversing Uganda more. That aside, East Africa has some great places, especially Zanzibar. Q. What item can't you imagine travelling without? A. My phone, loaded with music and Sony bluetooth earphones. Q. What is the most daring thing you have ever done? A. Ziplining in Mabira and bungee jumping on the same day. Q. What is the most scenic place you have flown over? A. Zanzibar. The blue water and sandy beaches are heavenly.

For journeys, not just destinations. You might want to take a trip. Or Twenty

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CELEBRITY INTERVIEW

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

CELEBRITY INTERVIEW

Ntare Guma Mbaho Mwine is one of Hollywood’s

favourite stage and film actors. Beyond that, he is a

producer, playwright, photographer, documentarian

and human rights activist. Alongside his friend Fanny

Martinez of 'Back To The Source Tours', the 52-year-old

is organising an end-of-year campaign to promote

Uganda’s tourism, culture and opportunities. Titled

'Hollywood Goes Back to the Source', the initiative

is aimed at inviting American celebrity friends and

influencers from the US. Ng’aali chatted with Ntare

about this exciting project and his love for acting.

In the early 90s, you started an acting career in Hollywood, a world full of glamour, lights and fame. Thirty years on, you are one of Hollywood’s notable stars. Where does your inspiration come from? Right here, my motherland — Uganda. This explains why I keep coming back here whenever I need to regroup or think clearly. There is something about being in Uganda that makes me feel alive. I aways leave very changed. Besides, Uganda is a gem that offers exclusivity. There are so many things we have here that are not anywhere else, an example being Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, a destination that was recently among CNN’s 25 of the most beautiful places around the world. That’s what inspired me to interest my friends into coming to visit my roots and come see my motherland, my inspiration. Who are some of the renowned personalities to whom you are extending your invitation to Uganda? The three most known here in Uganda include Brandy (an A-list singer, songwriter, record producer), Common (a powerhouse rapper, actor, writer, and philanthropist) and Yvonne Orji, a Nigerian-American actress known for her role in Insecure, a drama television series based partially on Issa Rae’s acclaimed web series Awkward Black Girl. I’ll mention the rest once we have given them the invitation, I don’t want to make premature statements. Beyond nature, the trip is purposed to promote other distinctive tourism products like Kampala’s nightlife. This is huge and I am hoping that Yvonne’s presence here will have a huge impact on putting Uganda on the map of comedy special countries. She is a very good comedian, a reason why she opens the standup comedy for Chris Rock. In your opinion, what is limiting Uganda’s ability to attract tourist traffic? For instance, while Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro attracts over 55,000 tourists, the Rwenzoris attract less than 1,000 tourists. I don’t have an exact answer to that question. What I do know though is that there is a bright side to it considering that most

tourists now prefer to visit less known countries than the usual ones that experience mass tourism. I have been to most of these parks where you feel like you are on a highway because it's overcrowded with cars. You don’t feel like you are in a national park. In contrast, Uganda’s national parks leave you feeling like it’s just you and the nature out there. An example is Lake Mburo National Park where I took my family during the Christmas holidays a year back. I went on a game drive and walking tour through the park and literally felt like I was one with nature. The walking tour was one of the most amazing experiences I’ve ever had. It was just me and my national park guide walking amongst the majestic animals that call Uganda home. The only problem here is that small tourism numbers don’t impact the finances positively. The Ministry of Tourism has elected you Tourism Ambassador. How does that make you feel? I feel very proud because there is a lot that Uganda has to offer! This opportunity gives me a platform to show the world what a gem Uganda is, hence my determination to bring Hollywood here. If you had the opportunity to change anything about Uganda, what would it be? Sometimes, Ugandans don’t appreciate what we have. We have been conditioned to think that things have to happen a certain way to be of value. For instance, most of our hotels and restaurants prefer to play music from the western world as opposed to our local songs. Is Uganda’s identity seen out there? Yeah sure, there are several Ugandans flying the country’s flag high out there such as Anne Kansiime, who is now known worldwide because of the videos she posted to YouTube. Jose Chameleone, Eddie Kenzo and lots of musicians are also known far beyond. Daniel Kaluuya achieved international recognition and www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

CELEBRITY INTERVIEW acclaim for his leading role in Jodan Peele's Oscar winning film Get Out (2017). He was also nominated for the Academy Award and Golden Globe Award among others. There is a lot to celebrate about Uganda’s art industry. What’s your advice to someone aspiring to follow in your footsteps and break into the acting world? Perseverance, perseverance, perseverance. Without it, one is bound to lose track of things after encountering obstacles. Secondly, Ugandans should speak with their unique voice as opposed to creating things that attempt to be palatable for export. They need to make the most of their originality. I don’t think we have told our stories, people need to make the most of what they have and yes, you don’t need to be rich to be able to pull things off. In this era you just need a cellphone to make a video and share it with the world. You just need to think outside the box and make the most of what you have.

If we want a piece of the cake, we need to start telling our stories. It's business. Everyone feels a sense of ownership of where they hail from and need to tell their own stories.

What limits most Ugandan movies from making it onto the global scene? First things first, we need to appreciate what fellow Ugandans are producing. It may not be to the desired standards but we have to bear in mind that Uganda’s film industry is still in its infancy compared to Hollywood. In this regard, it’s very important that Ugandans support their artistes and encourage them to aspire for more. If this happens, I can bet that in five years' time, the Ugandan film industry is going to blow the world away. Why have you chosen to shoot scenes of your next movie at Emburara Farm Lodge? The Ankole cow is fast disappearing yet it is our pride, a reason as to why it features prominently on the Shs20,000 banknote. I would never in a million years have guessed that this species may be extinct in the next 50 years, to the extent that the only place where you can see them is a farm/zoo setting. It breaks my heart to drive through Ankole without a sight of these cows. Emburara Farm Lodge has a special place in my heart because it is conserving the cows and their habitat and further showing people that what we have is unique and worth celebrating. Despite being a Hollywood star, you are very humble and easy to take for just another middle-class man trying to get along. Why do you choose this lifestyle? I try to keep it real. There is more to life than hype. So many Hollywood-initiated movies have been shot in Uganda over the years, but the major roles are taken by US rather than Ugandan actors, such as Forest Whitaker as the lead actor in Last King of Scotland. What's your take on that? It all depends on who is financing. All those movies are financed by US or UK firms. If we want a piece of the cake, we need to start telling our stories. It's business. Everyone feels a sense of ownership of where they hail from and need to tell their own stories. What is your family background? According to my family tree, all my ancestors are buried here in Ankole. My paternal grandfather was Saza Chief of Mbarara. My father, the late Frank Mwine, was the first Ugandan to graduate from Harvard Law School. My mother was a lecturer of Psychology at the University of Nairobi, while my maternal grandfather was the first black Archbishop of Uganda (Reverend Erica Sabiti).

Ntare Guma Mbaho Mwine is a dual citizen of Uganda and America, working in the mediums of photography, theatre, film and television. Mwine appeared in Mira Nair’s QUEEN OF KATWE, opposite Lupita Nyong’o; BOOST; BLOOD DIAMOND opposite Leonardo DiCaprio and starred in the indie feature 40. He’s had recurring roles in several TV series, including Steven Soderbergh’s THE KNICK, David Simon’s TREME, the TV series BOSCH, HEROES, and currently, THE CHI. Mwine directed KUHANI, which won the Main Prize for Best Achievement in Directing at the International Kurzfilmtage Winterthur and was nominated for the 2014 Grand Jury Prize for Best Short Film at the Slamdance Film Festival. His documentary BEWARE OF TIME, won Best Film at the Berlin Black International Cinema Festival. BIRO, a multi-media solo performance piece, was Mwine’s first effort as a playwright. After premiering at Uganda’s National Theatre, it opened in London and then at New York’s Public Theater where it made The New York Times Critics’ Pick list. His second multi-media solo piece, A MISSIONARY POSITION, premiered in Los Angeles. Mwine’s stage credits include leading roles at the Steppenwolf Theatre, The Kennedy Center, Lincoln Center, ACT, the Long Wharf Theatre and the national tour of SIX DEGREES OF SEPARATION, for which he received an NAACP Image Award nomination for Best Actor. 32

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

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ZAS Juba Ltd, the largest, and one of the first ground handling companies in the Republic of South Sudan was established right after the independence in 2011. The company is part of the Z-Aviation Services group of companies that provide ground handling and aviation services in several countries throughout Africa and the Middle East. With over 40 years of experience in the industry, the founders of the group identified the need for a professional and comprehensive company that could provide international standard aviation services throughout the various South Sudanese airports. Today we serve the largest international carriers from commercial passenger flights to military, private and cargo operations. With a focus on safety, security and quality, ZAS Juba has put a lot effort into its training and quality control programs certified by IATA instructor and following ISAGO international standards. Chol Demach, ZAS Juba Managing Director

PROFILE

A journey of film MEET THE UGANDAN BEHIND CNNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s INSIDE AFRICA Words by Solomon Oleny

ave you watched Inside Africa, a weekly showcase on CNN that highlights the true diversity of the African continent? It delves into culture, mediums of art, music, travel and literature. What about the famous advert with Ugandan Gold Medallist, Stephen Kiprotich, drinking mineral water on the hills of Kapchorwa? If you have, then I introduce to you the 29-year-old Ugandan Isaac Oboth, whose multimedia company, Media 256, is behind the production of both these successful projects. Isaac's business career started early. Both his parents died by the time he was seven, leaving him with his brother Ivan, just a few years his senior. Oboth remembers the day Ivan, after losing his job, came to school and asked him to start making money. "It was a pivotal point for me - Ivan was my sole provider," he recalls. At rock bottom, he turned to selling rock buns at school- they were crumbly, fruity snacks also known as rock cakes. "This was my very first business venture. I was 16 at the time and made 400-500 shillings every night." At the age of 17, Oboth hired a local videographer to film his high school prom. Two weeks after prom, the videographer delivered 250 branded DVDs to him. Full of excitement, he quickly ran up to the school computer laboratory and watched one of them. It was dreadful! The editing was shoddy and the music was all wrong; it was a horrendous draft. Surprisingly though, www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

wwn

Today, Media 256 has 98+ corporate clients, most of whom are repeat clients inclusive of CNN International, for whom it shoots destination adverts and feature stories focusing on Africa. his classmates loved it and he sold out in a day. He went on to make more copies with extra scenes, called it a “deluxe version” and sold it at a premium price. This experience made him extremely curious about what it took to make great quality videos. He began searching online and watching YouTube tutorials on how to shoot and edit videos. What started as simple curiosity quickly became an obsession. At some point, he was spending 16 hours a day just playing around with video editing software and after six months of watching YouTube tutorials, he registered Media 256. “Our first big project was a Shs800,000 contract with Akamai Global, a business consulting firm. It was a breakthrough that won us recognition from more corporate entities such as the Investor’s Club, who contracted us to cover their Financial Literacy Week for Shs2m.

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Growth Though it was still a young developing company, Media 256 would soon go on to win the Film and Television Award in the 2011 Young Achievers Awards, a tribute that recognises the hard work of young entrepreneurs. They also won the Anzisha Award for Upcoming Young Entrepreneur of the Year. These accolades caught the eyes of influential business personalities such as Ashish Thakar, founder and CEO of Mara Group. Thakar quickly introduced a then 23-year-old Oboth to Nigel Ball, a Managing Director at Mara Launchpad, an entrepreneurship incubation centre. A week later, Ball interested Oboth in producing two documentaries for Mara namely; The Next Generation and Next Entrepreneur. As luck would have it, the coverage of these projects led Oboth to Kenya for one of the events organised by Mara Group, where he met influential people

PROFILE

on the African Continent such as Dr Eleni G. Mahdin, the Vice-Chairperson of the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange Authorities. It was a timely coincidence that Mahdin was looking for a media house to cover an upcoming commodities exhibition, a contract worth $5,000 (approx Shs13m Ugx then). With this money, Media 256 bought efficient equipment for the business, which boosted their confidence to lobby bigger clients. Oboth lobbied Coca Cola to produce a better quality video than they had. “I offered to work without pay in exchange for being evaluated. They agreed. When they saw the finished work, they contacted us for future work.” Oboth grew in leaps and bounds and his work attracted clients as big as the UN, USAID and the Mukwano Group. Three years down the road, Media 256 had grown so much that they found it necessary to acquire their own office space to handle bigger projects like Ethiopian Commodities Exchange, Marie Stopes International, African Leader Academy, VIA Aviation and Coca Cola. In Uganda, Media 256 is best known for being a favourite filming agency for Mukwano Group, for whom he shot the Kiprotich advert and many others. While he is tight-lipped about the cost of shooting documentaries, he hints at each costing over Shs25m (roughly $7,000). Today, Media 256 has 98+ corporate clients, most of whom are repeat customers inclusive of CNN International, for whom they shoot destination adverts and feature stories

focusing on Africa. To catch up with his production, watch out for the weekly editions of CNN's Inside Africa, aired on Sundays. Spreading out At its conception, Inside Africa’s mission to rewrite the story of Africa was on top of the agenda. The narrative that Africa has much more going on than war, famine, and disease was pertinent. But to do this, Oboth had to commit to producing content that focused on five key themes; African beauty, African enterprise, African excellence, African ingenuity, and African resilience. Currently, Oboth is taking on his most ambitious project yet, a micro-budget narrative short film about how he got into business and film making. “It was, in equal proportions, both the most fun and most work I have ever had to do,” he says. “I had a core cast and crew of 30, over 100 extras and an entire boarding school as the set.” This will be the first episode in a series of films he is making in partnership with the MasterCard Foundation. He is calling the series The Audacious Ones. “I will be travelling to 6 countries in Africa to meet with and tell the stories of some of the most brilliant young entrepreneurs on the continent,” he tells of the project. “Through this story and others in the series, we hope that we shall encourage children in Africa and beyond to pursue their curiosity and passion 100%.”

Isaac and Jacqueline Oboth with their children Theodore (right) and Olivia.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

TRAVEL DIARY

First time family safari in Uganda

“Y

ou are very lucky; you are now going to see the males,” whispered our guide James Kalyewa from Uganda’s Carnivore Research Programme. Our 4x4 gently pulled away from the two lionesses and their cubs on the Kasenyi Plains in northern Queen Elizabeth National Park. “A lion with a mane?” asked Charlie one of my 10-year-old twin boys. “If we are lucky,” James replied. I had decided this would be the year I took my sons to Africa after the continent captured my heart on my first safari eight years before. Having worked in Africa’s tourism industry since 2012, I’d had the benefit of visiting regularly and wanted to wait until the time was right to take them on their first safari adventure. I’d purposely kept them away from our local safari park, preferring to show them the real thing on the wild plains. As a parent of twins, I know the challenges that come with planning a family holiday, but throw into the mix an African safari and there’s a few more things to think about: vaccinations, malaria tablets, long-haul flights, long game drives, will they eat the food... and could I find family friendly places to stay. After much deliberation, we chose Uganda. I had visited before

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and knew it had diverse wildlife and varied landscapes, but more importantly, I appreciated the relaxed pace and wonderfully warm people. It also offered great value for money compared to some of the other popular safari destinations. We were all incredibly excited. I couldn’t wait to get back to Uganda - Charlie wanted to see elephants and lions, George loves reptiles, and my husband is mad about primates. We all had high expectations, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. This is what I learned about going on a first-time safari with children.

Make space to be a family

On safari, we decided to pay extra and have our own private vehicle, and it was a good idea. It gave us peace of mind that we wouldn’t disturb anyone else’s trip and we had the space to move around and ensure the best seats for viewing wildlife. We could stop when we needed and could take things at our own pace. The plug points in the vehicle were a big plus for the boys so they could charge their phones, which they used mainly for taking pictures and videos but also for entertainment on long drives.

TRAVEL DIARY Top tip: take some snacks with you while out in the park. Hungry children and game drives don’t mix.

It’s all in the guide

I made sure the booking staff knew the age of the children in advance, and our guide Paul, from Great Lakes Safaris, couldn’t have been better. He was good with children, having worked previously as a child physiotherapist. A change in circumstances saw him driving for the company’s CEO, who soon saw his potential and encouraged him to train as a guide. Paul became one of the boys’ highlights of the trip; he really stimulated their interest in nature and the boys were fascinated by him. He showed us that the smaller things on safari could be fascinating too. He was so knowledgeable, good fun, and just really understood children. He even got them as excited by a pile of dung as the elephant that had made it!

Freedom in camp

Some lodges may say they are family friendly simply by offering adjoining rooms, but the best thing to do is check reviews online to see other families’ feedback. We stayed at Elephant Plains Lodge just outside the national park, which meant we could relax a little more and give the children some freedom to walk around, unlike places in the park where one needs to be escorted. The park gate was only a five-minute drive away. The lodge also had a swimming pool, which was a huge plus in the equatorial heat. There were two huge family units, each with two bedrooms and two bathrooms, located close to the main lodge and the swimming pool.

Left: The twins walking in Maramagambo forest

Dine on your own

Safari etiquette often means you dine as a group with the other guests. We chose to dine alone as a family, so that we could spend that time together and eat a little earlier if we wanted to. The staff set a table for us by the swimming pool where we could relax, and the chef even asked the boys what they would like him to make for the following night: pizza, of course!

Take time out

Because of the variety of activities offered in Queen Elizabeth National Park, I made the mistake of trying to do too much. Many of our days had morning and afternoon activities, and this meant very early starts. The two boys were broken by day three! In hindsight, sticking with just one activity a day would have been much better and more relaxing for all of us.

Learn new skills

We had borrowed a friend’s SLR camera to take some pictures and the auto settings meant we could just point and click. George developed a real interest and put his phone down in favour of looking through the lens. He

Left: The Cutler family at the equator monument, Kayabwe, Mpigi. www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

TRAVEL DIARY would take it around the lodge and come back with wonderful pictures of butterflies, ants and plants. If you don’t have a camera, you can hire a decent one anywhere in the UK from lensesforhire.co.uk. You might find that you have a mini photographer on your hands.

Get out of the 4x4

For certain safari destinations, it isn’t permitted to get out of your vehicle, but it’s essential when you have children on safari. Uganda has some fabulous forests and wetlands to explore — perfect territory for two 10-year-old boys. A guided walk through Maramagambo Forest was a real adventure, spotting monkeys, birds, bats and even a huge python. A boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel was a wildlife feast for the eyes; Paul got us there early so that we could get the boys a seat on the top deck where they could move around and get the best views.

Go beyond the safari

The friendliness of the Ugandan people is what really made our trip. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit a local town or village to get a flavour of life there. It was a huge eye-opener for the boys. We went on a community walk in neighbouring Kikorongo village, where they joined a lesson in a primary school, the same year group. When the class ended, the boys were surrounded by inquisitive children. George was showing them his camera and Charlie had a rubix cube. At first, they didn’t know what to think, but children always find a way of getting on. The boys bought some souvenirs from the women’s craft shop and joined in the song and dance, even teaching the women how to do the dab. “I miss Paul,” said Charlie when we got back home. It had been a wonderful family adventure, one which brought us together over so many different first experiences. 40

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Uganda really did deliver as a destination. It was great value, an easy-going atmosphere with friendly people, and a wide range of activities. I asked the boys for their favourite things about the trip and was surprised by their answers: Paul, the school visit, the swimming pool and the pizzas. Oh, and the lions. Adele Cutler and her family travelled around Uganda with Great Lakes Safaris and stayed at Elephant Plains Lodge. Their story was first published in Travel Africa Magazine.

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DESTINATION BURUNDI

Burundi's Abatimbo Dance is an intangible cultural heritage of humanity

urundi’s Abatimbo dance is just what you need to fire up your senses. It’s more than a traditional dance with oldworld charm. It’s an electrifying drumming experience that is backed up by jubilant yelling. Estimated to be over five centuries old, this is an enthusiastic performance that the people of Burundi Kingdom used to sway to in exaltation of their kings. Back then, it was exclusively for the entertainment of the royal family. However, when the kingdom was abolished in 1966 by Prime Minister Michel Micombero, the dance crossed into the public domain. Many 42

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across Burundi were enchanted by the way it breathed life into the scene and quickly embraced it. Without it, social celebrations like weddings were considered incomplete. Before long, the macho dance started to spread out through this small country like a wildfire! The rest, as they say, is history. Currently, the Abatimbo dance is trending among the most sought-after dances in Africa, dominating international festivals, and is the cherry on the cake at most political campaigns across all the four corners of Africa.

How it unfolds

Typically, most East African dances start slowly and heat up after a few minutes. Abatimbo is different. It starts and ends on a high note. It gets underway after a queue of about 10 performers kick their way into the dance arena, balancing long drums on their heads whilst drumming them aloud. The name of their long traditional drums is Karyenda, and their costumes/robes are a mix of green, red and white, just like the flag of Burundi. Karyenda is a sacred drum - it symbolised a whole nation and its kings (“mwami”) in the olden days. Stephen Rwangyezi, 64, is the founder of Ndere, a cultural centre in Kampala that showcases this dance every weekend. According to him, the energetic kicks of the dancers represent a warrior’s determination to boot any danger that comes in the way of their king — in this case, a Burundian king. As the right hand of the performers concentrates on striking the top surface of the drum, which is usually made of cow hide, the left focuses on its wooden sides in a tap-tap rhythm. All this is spiced up with a song that is easy to confuse for jubilant yells. The result is a thunderous performance that effortlessly captures the crowd’s attention, triggering a deep desire to see the full drama as it unfolds. At this point, the performers form an arc facing the crowd. They then start to lower their drums one at a time and then, the leader of the troupe gently steps forward into the centre of the arc to place the most colourful drum bearing the colours of the Burundi flag. One by one, the dancers come into the arena to showcase how a spirited Burundian warrior fights at the battlefront. One spins around the drum while wringing his neck with the drumstick to demonstrate how he would behead an enemy. The other springs off the ground while hurling his hands in the air to demonstrate how he would spear the enemy with might. This goes on for about six minutes with each dancer showcasing a move that leaves the crowd screaming in excitement. Whenever he is through with his part, a dancer steps back and joins the other drummers who by this time are uniformly shoving their feet left and right. As the dancers crown their performance, the drumming heats up, taking a new twist that is easier to dance to. Moved by the positive energy, many in the crowd step up to the challenge, and start to groove along, until the drummers start kicking their way out of sight, the same way they came in. The vigour with which they do everything is unbelievable. And that is why the drum is only made of tough hides and tree trunks. For the same reason, Abatimbo is mostly performed by well-built men. By the time they are done, their clothes are soaked in sweat. It’s impressive how well this dance has been preserved for over five centuries, with minimal incorporation of external cultures. Perhaps the only thing that has changed about it are the costumes. In the past, dancers mostly wore cow hide, typical of most cattle keeping tribes. Things have changed over time. They now adorn cotton robes across their chests and clip them at the shoulders. Like the old costumes, they are light and thus allow easy movement of the dancers. UNESCO is considering adding this dance to a list it calls “The Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”.

DESTINATION TANZANIA

magine yourself encapsulated within a turquoise blue bubble, watching shoals of reef fish swimming lazily by - sometimes in three or four layers of different species above the reef floor. This is the heart-stopping experience that awaits you in the underwater room of the Manta Resort off the coast of Zanzibar. The floating structure, Swedish-engineered, provides three levels, those above the water clad in local hardwood, and each an experience in itself.

The landing deck, at sea level, has a lounge area and bathroom facility. A ladder leads up to the roof, which has a lounging area for sun bathing by day. By night, you can lie back in the starlight and wonder at the extraordinary clarity of the stars, planets and above all, the edge of our own galaxy - the wonderful Milky Way, all seen without any light pollution. Sleep under the stars to the soft murmuring of the sea.

Getting there: Fly Uganda Airlines to Dar es Salaam, then catch and enjoy a fun ride on the Azam Marine Ferry to the Manta Resort in Zanzibar.

Description courtesy of The Manta Resort. Images by Jesper Anhede

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DESTINATION KENYA

Loretu Lesamana, a mzee (junior elder) of a Samburu community from the plains near Mathews Ranges in Kenya's Northern Frontier District.

Samburu women perform a welcome dance at a manyatta near Samburu National Park.

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T he way of the

WARRIOR The Samburu have traditionally been known as the aristocrats of the East African wilderness. Mark Eveleigh heads off into Kenya’s Northern Frontier District to learn ‘the way of the warrior.’

oretu Lesamana squats on the trail, casting a practised eye over what I’ve come to think of as ‘the morning newspaper’. The print he’s scanning doesn’t follow neat lines of black ink however. The thick bangles on the Samburu warrior’s forearm clatter as his fingers trace a jumble of sandy scrawls. His brow furrows as he deciphers the order in which the hieroglyphics were laid down on the parchment of African dust. The “news report” tells of the fatal dance of predator and prey through the life-anddeath hours of the Kenyan night. The small print this morning describes the passage of striped hyena, bushbuck, mongoose, porcupine and baboon along this trail. The warrior smiles as he delivers the ‘headline news’: “Chui kubwa,” he says. He nods his head again in confirmation. The ochrematted locks of his hair swing across his chiselled cheek. “Chui kubwa sana!” A big leopard passed this way during the night. A very big leopard. Its tracks are planted purposefully on top of those of the luckless porcupine. I’ve travelled to Kenya’s Northern Frontier District in search of Africa’s most elusive cat and I am hoping that bad news for the porcupine could be good news for us. There are melanistic (darker) variations of most spotted cats. Regardless of whether they are South American jaguars or African or Asian leopards, they’re commonly known as black panthers. The leopards in this part of Kenya live in particularly deep, shadowy forest, so the black variation has become more common

than usual. In fact, the Mathew’s Ranges mountain chain is considered one of the best places in the world to catch sightings of black panthers. We’ve spent several days on the trail of the black panther, and I’m fast realising that tracking here on the rocky slopes of the Mathew’s is a very different prospect to following clearly scripted trails across the sandy plains around Samburu National Reserve, farther west. Samburu tribal territory stretches across the savannah that lies along the northern flank of Mount Kenya. Along with their more famous Maasai cousins, the Samburu were traditionally considered Africa’s tribal aristocrats and their fearless warriors — permanently bedecked in gaudy finery — are an icon of the Kenyan wilderness. Throughout the seven years that a young man lives with his warrior brotherhood, he will never eat or even take a sip of water without sharing with his fellows. And of course, he would lay down his life for them without a moment’s hesitation. “These men are utterly fearless,” wilderness guide Willem Dolleman told me as we drove from his home at Joy’s Camp towards my first meeting with the Samburu. “They’d rather die than be seen to run away.” Dolleman spent many years on antipoaching patrols deep in the bush and has tracked with Samburu warriors all over northern Kenya. As the Landcruiser hauled a cloud of dust across the lizardbaking plains, he told me of an incident when he and a group of warriors

DESTINATION KENYA inadvertently found themselves between a lioness and her cubs. The lioness charged, as mothers are sure to do under such circumstances. “In an instant, the Samburu gathered around me,” Dolleman said. “They had their shuka robes wrapped around their forearms, and were shouting with that strange hollow roar they make. Luckily the lioness thought better of the attack. She skidded to a halt just a few metres away and circled around us to her cubs. I’ve no doubt that any one of those warriors would have been ready to sacrifice an arm just to slow her down.” According to folklore, a boy could not traditionally enter manhood without first killing a lion with his spear. While lionhunts did go on until recent times (and perhaps still do in some places), few experts believe that the rule was ever rigidly adhered to: it stands to reason that if every warrior had killed a lion, the cats would long since have been exterminated. Nobody is really sure how many centuries ago the ancient tribe descended from the Nile, clad in their lion-mane headdresses, ostrich feathers and colobus monkey robes. South of Lake Turkana they split into two factions and, while the Maasai continued south, the Samburu remained to follow the rains across these northern deserts. Neither faction ever hunted for meat and both still traditionally look down upon ‘less noble’ hunting and fishing communities. Today, the Samburu recognise the need to ensure schooling for their children, and in many cases are adopting a more sedentary lifestyle to remain close to the backcountry school-houses that many see as the tribe’s only hope for the future. This region is too arid for farming and the responsibility rests more than ever on the shoulders of the young warriors who must drive the cattle ever farther from their villages. These tough young men — recognisable as much for mirror and jewellery as they are for sword and spear — are far more than just wilderness dandies. Their fearsome reputation as warriors means that some young men work as security guards and night watchmen in Nairobi and because their roving lifestyle has attuned them perfectly to the wilderness, a few lucky www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

DESTINATION KENYA Samburu have found work as guides in Kenya’s unparalleled safari industry. I had come to Saruni Samburu Lodge to experience their ‘Warrior for a Week’ programme and to spend some time training and learning from some of East Africa’s most knowledgeable trackers and bush survival experts. The lodge (rated by the 2011 Good Safari Guide as one of Africa’s best safari properties) has been benefiting the 2,000 Samburu who live on the Kalama Conservation Area by helping them to earn an income from tourism for the first time in their history. Mzee Letur (also known as Chris) is a head-guide at Saruni and one of the new generation who seems able to respect the traditions of his people while at the same time finding an honourable way to embrace the new Kenya. Officially, he is a junior elder: his shaved head denotes his status as an elder in the village, yet he chooses to retain his warrior regalia at work as a guide rather than dress in the traditional olive drab of the park service. First-time visitors on an African safari are often unaware of the great fundamental difference that a top quality guide can make to their overall experience. A knowledgeable and experienced guide is able to track down unforgettable sightings by reading the mysterious small-print that is stamped all over the African wilderness, and by deciphering clues in the interaction of the wildlife and habitat around. The barely audible cough of a nervous kudu could lead to that unforgettable leopard sighting. The sudden appearance of a distant vulture, silhouetted against an African sunset, can point to the hunting grounds of the local pride several kilometres away. Inexperienced guides, however, will often simply cruise around looking for an opportunity to follow a good guide. Mzee Letur is known as one of the best guides in Samburu Reserve and it is his lead that many lowly drivers follow. The reserve is a spectacularly wild landscape that is free of the crowds of Kenya’s more popular southern parks. As we drove for hours among craggy hills and across wide-open savannah the colour of a lion’s hide, we rarely saw another vehicle. At a dusty luggah above the Ewaso Ng’iro River — the only permanent water in this region — we tracked a lioness leading her three tiny cubs on their first foray out of the birth-den. In the shadow of a rocky kopje, we watched a hungry leopard prowling with a hopeful eye on cautiously browsing antelope. Several miles up a desiccated riverbed, Mzee Letur spotted the spoor of a pack of 13 wild dogs (one of Africa’s rarest predator sightings) and we spent an hour watching these beautiful ‘painted wolves', - once slaughtered as pests by white farmers and Samburu nomads alike. Early the next morning, just as the sun was rising out of the dusty haze of the east, Mzee Letur and I drove to the little manyatta (village) of Lolkerdeed. The villages are traditionally 48

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built by the women and as they welcomed us, they gathered to perform their traditional dance. Their voices rang out across the mist-shrouded bush in a hauntingly hypnotic rhythm as they sang about warriors and battle, and love and cattle. As they danced, the heavily beaded necklaces bounced around their throats and it was impossible not to notice the similarity of the Samburu scarification is movement with the swaying dewlap done with a razor of a plodding bull. and acacia thorn The first thing you notice when you arrive at a Samburu manyatta is the thick fence of thorny acacia branches that surrounds it. This boma is designed to keep lions and leopards away from the cattle and goats. Spears stand to attention in the doorways of the huts, ready for action should predators come prowling. Samburu traditional life has always revolved around their livestock and nothing — neither predator nor human enemy — is ever allowed to interfere with the precious herds. Because of the harshness of the desert territory here, just a few miles north of the equator, many Samburu also herd goats, sheep and camels, but the real love of their lives remains their cattle and most Samburu men can recite the name of every cow in their herd. According to tribal folklore, all the cattle in the world once belonged to the Samburu but they were systematically stolen over the centuries by other tribes. During colonial times, Samburu territory was off-limits to anyone but government officials, but law here was always hard to implement because of the Samburu’s belief that they were not cattle-rustling but simply claiming back what had originally been theirs. Although this region is still often known by the old name of Northern Frontier District, it is now a peaceful area, as famous for its hospitable people as it is for its unforgiving landscapes and spectacular wildlife. In the centre of the village, another inner acacia boma serves effectively as the local parliament. Here, the elders - men who have served their seven years as a warrior and seven more as a junior elder - sit and discuss the problems of the village. These days the problems they discuss often relate to what many fear as an approaching end of their way of life. It is sustainable tourism initiatives like the one at Saruni Samburu and others all over Kenya that could be the only solution to the problem of how young Samburu like Mzee Letur and ace leopard tracker Loretu will be able to pass on the ancient skills of their tribe. And the important thing is that the old ways should be passed on not only to privileged tourists, but also to future generations of Africa’s traditional aristocrats. Saruni Samburu (www.saruni.com) offers a four-day Samburu Reserve Luxury safari — including internal flights from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, from $2,305 per person. Accommodation is on an all-inclusive basis in one of Saruni Samburu’s six wonderfully luxurious villas, and activities include two game drives daily and guided bush walks.

Most

DESTINATION KENYA - MOMBASA

Mombasa

Don’t forget to enjoy…

DOLPHIN SEAFARIS - SAND AND SEA WATER SPORTS A full day excursion to Kisite Marine Park and Wasini Island offers you the opportunity to experience dhow sailing, scuba diving, snorkelling, fine seafood dining at Charlie Claw’s, relaxing by our Lazy Lagoon pool, and dolphin spotting in the tranquil settings of the Wasini Channel. Mombasa town overlooks a wide harbour, where commercial shipping mingles with traditional sailing dhows. The true heart of Mombasa is found in the exotic old town, among the narrow winding streets and Arab architecture. Modern Mombasa is a city of great diversity and life. This is a town where all are welcomed and quickly absorbed into a great coastal melting pot.

THE TAMARIND DHOW CRUISE EAT AT: GALAXY CHINESE RESTAURANT Located on the island, it is run by a Chinese family and serves amazing food based on Hainanese recipes. You must try the fish in garlic sauce, sticky ribs, fried rice, whole steamed fresh fish and black pepper crab. Excellent freshly prepared food, great service, and nice atmosphere.

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STAY AT: PRIDE INN FLAMINGO BEACH RESORT & SPA Situated on the tidal Tudor Creek in Kenya’s historical city of Mombasa, the hotel boasts 100 rooms and suites, a bar, restaurant, fitness centre and a garden pool overlooking the estuary.

“Nawalilkher” and “Babulkher” jahazis were formerly used for cargo trading between the Kenyan coast and Arabia. They have been refurbished as floating restaurants. The dinner cruise commences at 6:30pm with a welcome “Dawa” cocktail as the dhow sails towards Fort Jesus while you enjoy a Swahili-style seafood dinner. The DJ belts out a wide variety of music as the dhow makes its way back to the Tamarind Jetty by 10:30pm.

DESTINATION JUBA

n July 2011, Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest country, Sudan, split into two and South Sudan, the world's newest country, was born.

Travellers will be amazed by South Sudan's numerous tribal groups and enthralled by its national parks overflowing with big numbers of large mammals. Unknown to many, South Sudan has the world's second largest animal migration after the Serengeti and therefore is considered a good place for ecotourism. The main ethnic groups are the Dinka, who make up around 15% of the population, the Nuer (around 10%), the Bari and the Azande. The currency used is South Sudan pound (SDG), and the most commonly spoken languages are English and Arabic. Culturally they value their cattle, which are a source of wealth and a key to marriage.

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DESTINATION JUBA An aerial view of Juba, the

capital and business hub of

South Sudan. Notice how the White Nile beautifully snakes its way along the periphery.

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DESTINATION MOGADISHU

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DESTINATION MOGADISHU

Rebuilding Somalia to its former glory Once, in the 1960s and 70s, Somalia was known as the “Pearl of the Indian Ocean.” That was before decades of armed conflict and instability drove visitors away from Mogadishu, the capital, leaving a once thriving tourism industry a distant memory. However, there are steps underway to return the capital and the rest of the country to its former glory as a haven for tourists seeking a mix of beach, culture and history. That prospect received a boost in 2017 when Somalia was admitted as the 157th member of the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO). Though still modest, the number of bona fide tourists arriving from Europe, Asia and the United States is steadily on the rise. Older Somalis can remember an era when Mogadishu was considered one of the African continent’s most attractive cities, and yellowing postcards from the 1960s hark back to an era when the capital was famous for its wide boulevards, spacious parks and colonial architecture. Now that peace is being restored in Somalia, their Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism is moving to promote the country and put it firmly back on the map of international tourism.

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DESTINATION KILIMANJARO

Get lost in the clouds of

KILIM

It stands undefeated as the most hiked mountain in Africa, and with good reason. From the moment you set foot in Mt. Kilimanjaro National Park, you start to feel rejuvenated as parades of overlapping mountains surround you in astounding numbers. This headline park is heralded for the hiking experience it offers as one ascends to the highest peak in Africa - Uhuru, which stands at 5,895 metres.

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DESTINATION KILIMANJARO

MANJARO A

vast ecosystem featuring five vegetation zones with intricate river systems - forest, heather, moorland, desert, and snow take centre stage. But first, a decision between the two routes must be made. Will it be the easier climbs, or are you going for the nerve-wracking type? If you don’t want too much trouble, then choose the former, especially at Marangu. It starts with a gentle walk under the woods and over bridges whose rivers journey from as far as the glaciers at the peak. This forest is a true tale of calm even the wildlife here is visibly pleased. In fact, it’s not uncommon to spot elephants wiggling their trunks in anticipation of various palatable vegetation. In truth, there is nothing too tiring about the hike up the mountain. The experienced porters free you of the burden of carrying weighty bags. This then makes for an effortless reach to the respective camps along the way up. There, a collection of gorgeous wooden and well-insulated huts should help warm the coldest of bodies in the dropping temperatures. The height

of the trees lessens as you gain altitude and the wellmaintained footpaths, though dusty at times, make for a less challenging manoeuvre. One of the biggest highlights is entering the cloud zone, a highly refreshing picture of floating giant cotton balls. Atop it all is the fantastic support you get whilst seeking Kilimanjaro’s peak. Should you feel tired, the kind guides will insist that you rest and wait until all is well. When it comes to mountaineering, safety is everything. With this in mind, one of the mountaineering agencies I am happy to recommend is Baba Kilimanjaro. During our hike, the guides and porters paid extreme attention to our safety and availed additional warm gear ahead of our ascent to Uhuru Peak, the final lap. Considering the steep gradient, the final departure is planned for 4am. That way, you can make it to your destination peak for an incredible sunrise and begin descent before the sun gets unbearably hot.

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DESTINATION KILIMANJARO

Travel Advisory

All photos by www.kazingatours.com

Reaching the crest of Uhuru Peak is such an inspiration. You have to see it for yourself! Below are our top travel tips.

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• Bring with you enough warm gear to sustain the body at winter temperatures. Temperatures drop to negatives as one ascends past the cloud level (starting 2,500 metres above sea level). • Hiking Kilimanjaro costs between $1,200-$1,600, depending on the tourism season. This fee covers full board experiences throughout the six-day adventure. • The best time to hike Kilimanjaro is during the warmest months. These run from January through midMarch. In the wet season, the floor of the mountain is slippery and thus hard to manoeuvre. For details or inquiries, visit www.babakilimanjaro.com

ECTAERCIIS

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DESTINATION SOUTH AFRICA

24 hours in Durban:

Exploring the jewel of South Africa

urban is a dramatically spectacular and fascinating multicultural destination in South Africa. Flanked by the warm Indian Ocean waters to the east and soaring flat peaks of Table Mountain to the west, Durban offers more than you expect, and to fully enjoy it, you need a couple of weeks. Sadly, I only had 24 hours to explore this beautiful city. Nonetheless, I, together with other tourists, embarked on the itinerary organised by Jikeleza, a city tour firm. We were chaperoned by Lebo and Fathima as we explored the highlights of this bustling city.

Moses Mabhida Stadium With a seating capacity of 54,000 people, the iconic Moses Mabhida is one of the stadia that hosted the 2010 FIFA World Cup. A two-minute Sky Car ride up the stadium arch (which costs R60, R55 and R30 per adult, pensioner and child respectively), led us to a 106 metre-high vantage platform. From here, we got unparallelled 360-degree views of Durban and beyond. Atop this architectural marvel, the entire city spread out below, like a Picasso painting. The skies were crystal clear, the views spectacular and the experience exhilarating. The Big Rush Big Swing, a bungee jump off the stadiumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 220m arc, was thrilling. It is ranked the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest swing by 60

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the Guinness Book of Records (2011 edition) and costs R695 per person. The streets of this rainbow city blossom with many restaurants. For example, the vast California Street boasts a variety of dining options, each specialising in unique cuisines from different parts of the world. We were spoilt for choice as we jumped from one restaurant to another with fellow tourists, some of them repeat visitors like Asher Abby, 48, a US-based Israeli who was visiting for the third time and found many aspects of life here enticing, especially the warmth of the people. Ushaka Marine Park Ushaka Marine Park is a humongous aquarium that exhibits unique aquatic creatures and reptiles. Here, we came face to face with a dolphin, petted sting rays, and some of us snorkelled with beautiful exotic fish species. On the whole, rates of activities here range from R50-R800 depending on the tourism season or duration of activity. Street life This city heaves with life. It is a vibrant metropolis with mixed races. I liked the sight of mosques standing side by side with churches. This is a city that preaches inclusiveness,

one that has moved on from its broken past and embraced the future. Blow away the city heat at Golden Mile, a white sand beach in front of luxurious hotels. The beach has a rich blend of natural beauty and modern resorts. It was so exciting to see the blue ocean spread before me in all its splendour. I never learnt how to swim, so instead I resorted to watching people surf and bob on the waves. While you stroll around, sample street foods like shisa nyama meat, spiced and grilled the traditional Zulu way. Alternatively, you can enjoy local music at Umlazi, a downtown neighbourhood in Durban that was designated for indigenous South Africans and Indians during the apartheid period; or visit Under The Moon Exclusive Lounge, a contemporary club with Zulu tradition found in the suburbs of Durban.

BEST TIME TO VISIT DURBAN The best time to visit is from June to August, when the weather is dry and sunny. During this time, the metropolis comes alive with many festivals ranging from beer, film and music, to religion. Words by Solomon Oleny For details of other adventures that South Africa has to offer, visit the website of South African Tourism.

Opposite page: A bird's-eye view of Durban's coastline and its white sand beaches, resorts and Indian Ocean shallows.

This page: Whether you have a soft spot for shopping, beach life, adrenaline-filled adventures or great food and scenery, Durban has something for you.

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ANIMAL KINGDOM

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ituated in South Western Uganda on the edge of the Rift Valley is the beautiful biologically diverse Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, a famous mountain gorilla destination that attracts nature lovers from all corners of the world. The park boasts one of Uganda's oldest diverse rainforests, which dates back over 25,000 years and is home to an estimated 450 mountain gorillas - which make up half of the world’s total population. The diverse park, which spreads over several steep ridges and valleys, is more than just a habitat for the famous mountain gorillas. It is also home to some of the world’s richest populations of other mammals like baboons, colobus monkeys, chimpanzees, as well as elephants, antelopes and reptiles. There are around 350 species of rare birds in the forest, and more than 200 species of butterflies and rare trees. The park is also the source of five major rivers which flow into Lake Edward. We narrowed down the top reasons why Bwindi should be on your to-do list when you visit Uganda.

Biggest Gorilla Population in THE ENTIRE WORLD

The 321km2 expanse of this UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to more than 50% of the world’s last surviving population of mountain gorillas, with over 450 primates. Of these, roughly 220 have been habituated for tourism. They belong to 18 families, each with 7-32 members belonging to different age brackets. The park can accommodate over 144 tourists in a day - the highest recorded number in the region.

Birdwatching

The park is a sanctuary for many birds, with 350 recorded bird species including all the 23 Albertine Endemics like blue-headed sunbird and Neumann’s warbler. Other species include tropical birds that thrive at 1,160 to 2,607 metres above sea level, like the African broadbill, black-billed turaco, yellow-streaked greenbul, shelley’s crimsonwing, black bee-eater, western green tinkerbird, Rwenzori apalis, blackfaced warbler, black-faced rufous warbler, regal sunbird, purple-breasted sunbird, cinnamon-chested bee-eater, olive-breasted greenbul, handsome francolin, Grauer’s

ANIMAL KINGDOM broadbill, and mountain masked apalis among others. Gorilla safaris in this tropical highland are the most affordable in the region. In April, May and November, permits cost $450, and $600 for the rest of the year. The $600 charge fully covers a guided adventure and filming costs. One of the many reasons that draw tourists here is that whereas infrastructure has been greatly improved to enable game viewing, the park is still as wild as it was at the start of the 20th Century, giving tourists a worthwhile experience. Added to that, the ranger guides are well versed with accurate information about where and how to track gorillas, what to look out for, and how to best interact with them.

Value for Money

Bwindi Park has much more to offer than Gorillas. There are fun activities on the nearby Lake Bunyonyi; do add this to your list of places to visit when in the area. Lake Bunyonyi is the perfect destination to relax after a gorilla trekking safari. The lake derived its name from the many little birds, obunyonyi, that call this place home. There are 29 islands of various shapes and sizes scattered across the water, a magical sight to take in and enjoy what mother nature blessed us with. The large eucalyptus trees on the shores of the lake offer plenty of shade, while the sand is soft and cool to the feet. If you like photography tours, you will love the canoe ride on Lake Mutanda. During this sightseeing tour aboard a dugout canoe, your eyes will feast on picturesque contrasts ranging from the sky-hugging volcanoes of the Virunga region and hills with wellterraced farms, to U-shaped valleys with meandering rivers. You will also see what a typical Ugandan rural setting looks like.

Variety of Accommodation

Over 40 major hotels have been established in Bwindi's four wings - Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga and Nkuringo. Regardless of whether you are a big fan of luxurious lodges with infinity views, or a budget traveller in search of a cosy campsite that is fully fledged, there is something for everyone. Several of these places double as honeymoon destinations with all-inclusive honeymoon packages. The average cost of lodging is $80 for budget, $150 for mid-range and $320 for upmarket lodges. Most lodges are located www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

ANIMAL KINGDOM

in tranquil and harmonious settings with incredible wildlife sightings.

Rich Biodiversity

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest - home to the park, is a vast open tropical forest lying at 1,160 - 2,607 metres above sea level. It is comprised of a succession of pristine mountains with valleys through which rivers meander. Bwindi is one of the few African forests that survived the last Ice Age. It has exceptional biodiversity of 120 mammal species, 350 bird species, and 220 recorded butterfly species. It is one of only four places in the world where you stand a chance to encounter unique butterfly species like Xymalos Monospora, Teclea Nobilis, Allophylus Abyssinicus, and Neoboutonia Macrocalyx. The park is said to be 25,000 years old and boasts over 324 tree species. Thanks to an abundance of hills which double as vantage points, it is very easy to spot the other resident animals of Bwindi. You will see forest elephants, buffalos, antelopes, baboons, wild chimpanzees, golden cats, giant forest hogs, red-tailed monkeys and nocturnal bushbabies. However, it is the baby gorillas you will remember the most; they are so friendly and playful.

Intimate Gorilla Trekking

Unlike zoo animals, the gorillas at Bwindi are not domesticated, which makes the experience exhilarating! They are very wild because the environment they live in is very harsh and dictates survival of the fittest. During most safaris, tourists are divided into four groups each with a maximum of eight to make the adventure as intimate as can be. The rangers get you as close as they can to the gorillas, where you will get to appreciate the sheer size of the largest primate species in the world. Gorillas averagely weigh four times more than a full grown man. More interesting is that no matter the time of your visit, you are assured of a lovely balance between a genuine wilderness atmosphere and splendid wildlife viewing. Bwindi is

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an exquisite destination for nature photographers because it looks completely different at different times of the day. The most magical sight is the golden sunset.

Safe to Visit

There are so many intriguing things about mountain gorillas and there is no safer place to observe them than in this park. Bwindi is under the heavy protection of the Tourism Police, a unit of the Uganda Police entrusted with watching over travellers both foreign and domestic. Thanks to this constant protection, it is a safe family destination all year round. During the rainy season, the park becomes quite marshy and flooded because of the heavy downpours. This hardly affects tourists because custom-made vehicles are used to navigate difficult terrain.

Ease of Accessibility

Bwindi is easily accessible both by road or air direct from Entebbe International Airport. If you intend to access this park by air, you can catch a domestic flight to Kihihi Airstrip, which is within easy reach of the park. The flight is two hours and offers an astonishing birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-eye view of Ugandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful landscapes. Upon arrival, a pre-arranged driver and/or guide will take you to the park. By road, Bwindi is nine hours away from Kampala and Entebbe International Airport. The good news is that the road is tarmacked and in perfect condition for a safari. There are also lots of fascinating tourist attractions along the way. Among the places where tourists take breaks is Igongo, a cultural village replica and museum with beautifully set out exhibits, which detail the social history, cultural heritage, geology, flora and fauna of the Ankole Kingdom. The statues here are interesting and thoughtprovoking, matched with well-expressed and beautifully illustrated encyclopedic information. One such statue is the Biharwe Eclipse Monument, which was built to memorialise a victory won by Ankole Kingdom over Bunyoro Kingdom more than 500 years ago.

Proximity to Mgahinga National Park

Less than an hour's drive from Bwindi is Mgahinga, Ugandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smallest national park, which covers a 33km2 highland packed with mountain gorillas and thriving birdlife. It encompasses three dormant volcanoes that offer unlimited views of Uganda, neighbouring Congo and Rwanda, thanks to its strategic location at a point where the borders of the three countries intersect. Each of these mountains offers a climbing challenge that draws more than 2,000 tourists from around the world every year. Simply put, if you want to go hiking in a less crowded destination, this place deserves a top spot on your list. Each of its three mountains is safe to hike. The Mgahinga Mountains soar to an altitude between 2,227 and 4,127 metres above sea level and are usually draped in misty clouds. Looking at them from the bottom, one might not fathom their actual size, but they are wide and enormous. It takes roughly eight hours to climb to and from their summits, each of which has a unique possession. For instance, Mountain Muhavura is endowed with a stunning crater lake half of which lies in Rwanda and the other in Uganda. On the other hand, Mgahinga is rugged and dramatic with lots of scenery for you to digest. As they say locally, the mountain is capable of having three seasons in a single day; summer, winter and rain. If your heart beats for tough climbing challenges, Sabinyo will fire you up. It offers the most remarkable views of both Muhavura and Mgahinga thanks to its location in the centre. To make your hike less frustrating, there are wooden ladders laid down to assist with your ascent over steep stretches. To get past them, you will use your arms more than your legs. When all is said and done, besides spending an hour with the gentle giant gorillas of Bwindi, there are many more worthwhile reasons to add Bwindi Impenetrable National Park to your next tourist destination list.

ANIMAL KINGDOM

The diverse park houses some magical hotels (like Mulehe Safari Lodge, pictured), and is home to some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s richest populations of other mammals like baboons, colobus monkeys, chimpanzees, as well as elephants and antelopes.

For butterfly lovers, the park has unique butterfly species like Protogoniomorpha Temora (pictured), Xymalos Monospora, Teclea Nobilis, Allophylus Abyssinicus, and Neoboutonia Macrocalyx.

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CONSERVATION

LIONS

peninsula of Mweya, near the entrance to Queen Elizabeth National Park. We can easily tell that Lu has told this story many times, because he has been researching and protecting the park’s cats for many years. The lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park are having a hard time, Lu explains. “Since I started researching them 20 years ago, their numbers have gone down almost 50%.” According to him, there are problems with the wildlife balance in the park, which drives lions into the surrounding villages. “However, when lions eat cattle, we have to compensate for the community’s losses, to prevent poaching,” he says. Granted, lions may go outside the park, but community members also come into the park, to poach and cultivate crops. When animals eat

Preserving Uganda’s

riving through Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park, which sits about eight hour’s drive from Kampala, it’s hard to see the challenges the pristine game park is facing. Yet, when you talk to Dr Ludwig Siefert of Uganda Carnivores Programme, your perspective quickly shifts. ‘Lu’ is a 70-year-old German veterinarian specialising in big cats. My journalist friends and I meet him in the canteen close to our Uganda Wildlife Authority banda on the 66

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these crops, people poach the animals for food. Around 30,000 people live on the edges of the park, in 11 enclaves. The next morning, we get into Lu’s rugged Land Rover, and head to one of these enclaves. He talks calmly about the lions that are close to the village, and says it’s difficult ensuring they do not cross into the village, as they usually linger in the surrounding thickets. After a constructive conversation with one of the village elders, Lu explains that this is a major part of his work: to make sure there are no conflicts between lions and communities. In April 2018, multiple lions were killed. “Many news outlets reported that 11 lions had been killed, which was not the case. Instead, three lions were poisoned by the community. I can show you the remaining pride right now,” he says, adding, “We can track them if you’d like.” It’s an offer we can’t refuse - after all, he is allowed to go off-trail, which means we can leave the tourist roads and head straight into the thickets. Lu tracks the carnivores of the park together with James, who’s on the roof of the truck, scouting the area with a telemetry antenna. Several lions in QENP wear a GPS collar and with the help of James, Lu receives

CONSERVATION data on the lions’ locations on his phone. During a tough off-trail drive through the thickets of QENP, we meet many elephants, and change our route because of some hyenas. “Compared to lions, hyenas are very smart,” Ludwig explains, quirkily adding, “They suffer from the Lion King image, I guess." Suddenly, he tucks away his phone and signals that we are very close. We drive around very slowly, and then we see them: at least seven lions are on the ground, resting. “The rainy season is a bad time for them because other animals search for water in a lot of different places in the park. That means that the lions have to work hard for their catch, they can’t just hang around one of the major water pools and wait,” he lets on. We drive up close to the kings and queens of QENP. “Whereas elephants are on the move and eating 80% of the day, lions are resting 80% of the day.Sometimes, when it’s hotter than it is now, they climb up trees to cool off. Tree-climbing lions are not unique to Ishasha, you can find them everywhere around here,” Lu shares. It’s amazing to be so close to the big cats. Plus, next to us in the front row seat is a professional doctor who can tell us all we want to know about these majestic animals. And it’s not a privilege for journalists: for a custom fee, anyone can book a trip with Dr Ludwig through the Uganda Carnivores Programme. Having been so close to the pride that survived a poison attack makes us sad as we drive back to our banda in Mweya. We ask Lu what he thinks must be done. Apart from politics, he says, the communities on the outskirts of the park should be financially compensated if their livestock or crops are eaten by wild animals. “And although critics say the park will become a zoo, fences and trenches around the park are probably the only way to keep the communities and lions safe,” he concludes.

Words and photos by Joost Bastmeijer Follow him on Instagram: @joostbastmeijer

CONSERVATION

Tusk Conservation Awards 2019

To these heroes, extinction is simply not an option

ave the date. This year, the Tusk Awards Ceremony will take place on November 21, 2019. Tusk Conservation Awards give the world a chance to celebrate extraordinary people, whose work and lives might otherwise go unnoticed outside their fields. Their work with wildlife and communities in Africa safeguards the future for us all. “These awards mean a great deal to me personally, they play a huge part in our mission to preserve Africa’s precious wildlife for its people. It is vital that we recognise the dedication of these unsung heroes and the bravery of rangers risking their lives, day and night, on conservation’s frontline. We all owe them a huge debt of gratitude,” says the Duke of Cambridge, HRH prince William, who is Patron of Tusk Awards. The Tusk Conservation Awards in partnership with Investec Asset Management will be presented at a ceremony in London in November 2019. The awards are sponsored by Land Rover and below are the shortlisted finalists for the 2019 Tusk Award for Conservation in Africa (pictured clockwise above). DR GLADYS KALEMA-ZIKUSOKA, UGANDA At the age of 25, Gladys was the first woman to be appointed Veterinary Officer for the Uganda Wildlife Authority and she soon pioneered the first wildlife translocation to restock Uganda’s national parks following years of poaching during the country’s civil war. As founder and CEO of the non-profit Uganda-based Conservation Through Public Health, Gladys established innovative programmes to protect mountain gorillas and other wildlife from human and livestock disease and then used information and communication technology to aid both local development and environmental education. In 2015, Gladys’ launch of Gorilla Conservation Coffee improved the livelihoods of communities by negotiating international market prices for their Arabica crops and generating valuable alternative income. JENERIA LEKILELEI, KENYA Jeneria is an exceptional conservationist and remarkable tracker 68

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who is able to locate lions in almost any situation. He is also the go-to person for resolving community conflict. As Ewaso Lions' Director of Community Conservation, Jeneria is succeeding in his aim of creating sustainable lion conservation by changing attitudes and behaviours towards lions amongst the younger generation in his area of northern Kenya. Recognising the urgent need to engage his own age group in lion conservation, Jeneria’s “Warrior Watch” initiative was launched. Turning the warriors into ambassadors for lions, they serve as a network across multiple communities, enabling Ewaso Lions to monitor these highly threatened species and reduce conflict incidents over a wide-ranging area. TOMAS DIAGNE, SENEGAL Over the past 26 years, Tomas, an African biologist/ conservationist and Director/Founder of the African Chelonian Institute, has focused his work on the protection of the tortoise plus the freshwater and sea turtles of West Africa. A perfect example of an emerging African conservation leader, Tomas has worked with local communities to establish two successful centres in Senegal for turtle protection, and breeding programmes for these rare species. Tomas has worked with the Senegalese authorities to repatriate turtles confiscated from illegal shipments and has since joined Senegal’s Department of Fisheries to introduce vital sea turtle protection measures in fisheries. Collaborating with geneticists from around the world, Tomas is now playing a part in the first studies into population genetics for seven turtle species, including two classed by IUCN as Critically Endangered. “As so much of the natural world continues to face the alarming and real threat of extinction, it is vital we recognise how much we owe to conservation’s unsung heroes whom the Tusk Awards shine a spotlight on. Living alongside Africa’s precious wildlife means they each face huge challenges, but their bravery and determination to preserve all life on the planet gives me hope for the future. I’m proud to have the opportunity to thank them for their incredible achievements,” Prince William says.

UGANDA CIVIL AVIATION AUTHORITY

Congratulations! The Board of Directors, Management and Staff of Uganda Civil Aviation Authority (UCAA) congratulate Uganda Airlines on commencement of flights in and out of Entebbe International Airport.

UCAA is pleased to be part of this landmark, which is expected to go a long way in further developing Ugandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tourism and air transport industry. Wishing the national airline tremendous success.

Uganda Civil Aviation Authority Safety, Safety and Safety Airport Road-Entebbe. P.O.Box 5536, Kampala Tel: +256 312 352 000, Email: aviation@caa.co.ug www.caa.go.ug

SAVING THE DAY

A baby chimpanzee

Betty bottle feeds her new charge, Ikuru.

Aniku Jovan playing with Ikuru.

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Betty (centre) and her family. From L - R, Betty's husband Daniel Afaa and sons Aniku Jovan and Moses Abiti.

Angucia, CHIMPS mother of

Chimpanzees are our closest living relatives, sharing over 98% of our genetic blueprint. These social creatures live in large communities across the forests of Uganda and conserving them and their habitats is a national priority. As little as 25 years ago, this was a different story.

n the early 1990s, AIDS was increasingly killing a number of Ugandans and it was rumoured that the virus was transmitted by primates, especially chimpanzees. People had conjured up lots of negativity about these primates and were urged to keep their distance. The situation was so bad that those who killed chimpanzees were widely celebrated and viewed as heroes. However, not everyone hated these primates or hunted them down. One such person was Betty Angucia, then a caretaker at Entebbe Zoo. How It All Started

Betty Angucia, a mother of two and wife to Daniel Afaa, a zoo attendant, was a housekeeper for Debra Cox, the first CEO of Chimpanzee Trust, then Chimpanzee Sanctuary. “Debra had some animals at home, specifically dogs, and nothing wild. My job was to clean and feed them, and I had never had an encounter with any of the chimps,” she says. One day as she was doing the laundry at the staff quarters where she lived with her family, Ms Cox approached her and gently asked for her help to take care of a four-year-old chimp, which had been rescued in Arua by a Ugandan soldier after her mother died in an ongoing civil war. “I had never seen a chimpanzee before, besides hearing about them in folk tales as a child - that they had four fingers and if they found someone with a fifth finger, they would break it off,” she says. However, Ms Cox didn’t know all that as she opened the cage

SAVING THE DAY and let the chimp out, to Angucia's chagrin. “It was not until she convinced me that those stories were a myth, pointing out that she still had both of her fifth fingers, that I calmed down,” she recalls wistfully. The chimp had a bloated stomach - a sign of worm infestation, and hair loss. Most of her baby teeth had either fallen out or were so badly corroded that they had to be removed. She tried to leap into Angucia's laundry trough to quench her thirst, but was too weak to do it on her own. Filled with empathy, Angucia got hold of the nearest plastic cup, filled it with water and offered it to the baby chimp, and that’s how their friendship began. Ikuru Becomes Family

In time, Angucia realised that the chimp behaved like a typical four-year-old child and needed her care. She named her Ikuru, which means joy in Lugbara, her native tongue. “She searched for me whenever she was hungry and liked playing with my children, Moses Abiti and Jovani Aniku, then aged five and two. She followed me everywhere. I remember the first time I saw her sucking on her thumb. She looked so human,” she says fondly. Angucia grew so fond of Ikuru and started letting her come home with her sometimes. On days when she didn’t turn up for work on time, Ikuru would go to her house and knock on the door until Angucia opened for her. Before long, the whole family had accepted the chimp as one of them. The boys even shared the same bed with Ikuru and did chores like general cleaning together. Ikuru would copy and learn whatever chores they did with 98.7% efficiency and sometimes even better. She was never shy to learn. They played and ate together, and Ikuru's picture hung on a wall in the living room, alongside the Afaa family portraits. Eight months down the road, she had become the kind of family member whose absence translated to boredom in the home. Angucia opened up to adopting more rescued chimpanzees two years down the road. First it was Kisembo, then Yiki, and the list went on. One after another, they came and grew. Yes, society continued to misjudge her for her stubborn persistence, but what mattered to her was that the family had each other no matter how tough it got. All Things Come To An End

The joy of mothering chimps was taken away from Angucia in 2002 when they were transferred to Ngamba Island because their population growth was putting lots of pressure on the available resources at the zoo. She still visits them whenever she is free (from her duties at Ngamba Chimpanzee Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust as chef). “It’s been 17 years since I met Ikuru, and people always ask me why I have never left. I stayed because I wanted to see my baby grow. I stayed because I wanted to see for myself that she would be fine, because she was a large part of my children’s life. By staying with the organisation that’s responsible for her welfare, I am around Ikuru," says Angucia.

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BIRDWATCHING RED THROATED BEE EATER

The red-throated bee-eater lays two to three eggs in February and these are incubated by either sex. Where to find them: Lake Albert, Kazinga Channel and the rapids below Murchison Falls

Herbert Byaruhanga, 50, is one of the most prolific pathfinders of Uganda’s tourism sector and is Director of Uganda Birding Safaris, a thriving tour company. To him, birdwatching is not a job but a passion. This is reflected in the way he shares his story in slices of passion for birding and tourism in general. If you have been looking for stunning birds with colours of the Ugandan flag, here are his top six and their quick facts.

Pictures by Peter Hogel.

ROSS TURACO

The Turaco’s green and red pigment contains copper. If you dipped its red feather in a glass of water and stirred it, it would turn pink. As the birds get older, the pigments deepen and the copper begins to oxidise. Where to find them: Kibale Forest National Park and Entebbe Botanical Gardens

SADDLE BILLED STORK

They are considered the tallest species of Stork due to their height at almost five feet tall. They are very quiet birds that make bill-clacking noises, partly because they lack a syrinx, a vocal organ of birds. As a result, they can’t trill, warble, whistle or sing. The chicks make hissing sounds whenever in need of their parents’ attention, but become quiet in adulthood. Where to find them: Kazinga Channel in Queen Elizabeth National Park and the patty of the Nile River in Murchison Falls National Park

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GREY CROWNED CRANE,

UGANDA’S NATIONAL EMBLEM

Dancing is among the things that this species is renowned for. Their elaborate choreography involves various jumps and bows. This is not unusual for birds, but the Crested Crane takes it to another level. Both young and old dance year-round, including during non-breeding periods. Where to find them: Most swamps in Western Uganda

WHY UGANDA IS RANKED AMONG AFRICA’S TOP 3 BIRDING PARADISES

BLACK-WINGED RED BISHOP

When migrating, these birds can fly for over one hour without rest. They mostly migrate to escape the hottest and driest months due to food scarcity, which lessens their chicks' chances of survival. Where to find them: Namulonge, Central Uganda

Thanks to Uganda’s location on the East African Plateau, a part of Africa that is blessed with friendly weather all through the year, it doesn’t surprise many that the country attracts over 1,067 recorded birds. This is inclusive of migrants like Swallows, which fly in from as far afield as Europe. If you have been yearning to see the 23 Albertine Endemics, a visit to the south western part of the country won’t disappoint you - it is home to Semuliki National Park, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park and Mount Rwenzori National Park.

BLACK-HEADED GONOLEK

They have a particular call in which the male makes one clear note and the female instantly responds with a raspy call. It happens so quickly that it often sounds like one bird singing a loud, resonant, bell-like, disyllabic “wheeyou, hweeu”. Where to find them: Woodland bush and thickets in the western part of the country

Among the species here are the blue-headed sunbird and Neumann’s warbler. Other species include tropical birds that thrive at 1,160 to 2,607 metres above sea level, like the african broadbill, the black-billed turaco, yellowstreaked greenbul, shelley’s crimsonwing, black bee-eater, western green tinkerbird, rwenzori apalis, black-faced warbler, black-faced rufous warbler, regal sunbird, purple-breasted sunbird, cinnamon-chested bee-eater, blue-headed sunbird, olivebreasted greenbul, handsome francolin, grauer’s broadbill and mountain masked apalis.

Best time to visit

Birdwatching in Uganda is most productive in the dry months from August to November. During this time, the vegetation in most parks is low. This makes it easy to take pictures of wildlife. That aside, it is easier to pursue nature walks and hike, as the terrain isn’t wet.

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CUISINE

are the new way to experience

Ugandan cuisine Words by Cassandra Lukwago

The best way to get to know a place is to interact with the people, walk the streets and eat the food. The guides at Food Tours of Uganda tick all these boxes. They arrange tours around the city and offer visitors, who might never leave the paved suburbs they reside in — an unbridled and sensual front seat to the city of Kampala. They have three different tours to choose from: the Fishing Village Food Tour, Night Boda Boda Street Food Tour and Amazing Race Tour. I choose the Fishing Village Food Tour, their most popular. It starts near Nsambya Hospital at midday and lasts about three hours. The start time is flexible though so you can choose what works best for you. People can go in groups or individually.

OM THE LUW

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We start by driving to Salaama Road to taste some snacks. Along the way, my guides Paul and Kennedy point out buildings and places worth noting. It is a food tour but you will learn about the locale as well. The snack shop has kabalagala (Ugandan pancakes), mandazi (a version of beignets), samosas, and more. Kennedy informs me of the history of these snacks, particularly the last one, which is a legacy of the Indian culture in Uganda. On their tours, the guides carry plates on which their clients are served, a welcome commitment to hygiene. Snacking and eating on the street is part of Uganda’s food culture and you will have a chance to indulge. I am cautioned against filling up, as the next stop will unveil a feast quite literally fit for a king. In Buganda, Luwombo was prepared especially for the king. However, the technique of wrapping sauces in smoked banana leaves and steaming them was too good to keep only in the palace. It soon spread to the rest of the kingdom. When we arrive at the famous and aptly named ‘Luwombo’ Restaurant on Busabala Road, I get a chance to enter that place restaurants never let you go; the kitchen. It is spotless and quite a sight for visitors who have never experienced giant metal saucepans fired by wood and heaped with banana leaves. All the food here is steamed — chicken, beef, goat, groundnuts (peanuts), etc, the choice is mine. The most distinct thing about any Luwombo dish is the aroma from the smoked banana leaves. It lends itself to the sauces, and because the dishes aren’t heavily spiced, one gets to enjoy the actual taste of the food. Steaming ensures that the beef/chicken retains a pink colour and is absolutely tender. The sauce is accompanied by any number of local foods including matooke, posho, sweet potatoes and pumpkin. Top that off with avocado, entula (garden eggs) and a glass of juice and I have a slightly intimidating spread in front of me. A few moments after eating, we are off to our next stop.

CUISINE The road is unremarkable but Kennedy has a way of spicing that up with tidbits like, "You are currently on Kabaka’s land." “There are two sides to the fish market tour,” Kennedy says. “The extreme side and the normal one.” We start with the extreme one. Be warned, ye of weak stomachs, about the pungent smell of fish — your eyes will be stung by the smoke, which together with salt is how the fish is preserved. Here, I see firsthand how the fish is gutted, and learn that no part of it goes to waste, not even the intestines. It’s interesting to see that there is a different section of people earning a living off of every part of the fish — bones, skin, gut and all. Perhaps the most interesting thing I see is the fish auction, where men in white coats stand on platforms and entice their audience to buy at the highest price as tilapia, Nile perch and still-writhing mud fish stare at the crowd. And then we are off to the ‘normal’ section. The fish market at Mulungu landing site can best be described as a confluence of life. There are several shops with a communal external sitting area full of umbrellas to shield merrymakers from the sun. The music is loud but not offensive and there are people going about

their various businesses. Like the “extreme” site before, there is a fish auction here. You can bid on a fish, buy it and hand it over to the next person in the chain, who cleans it before handing it over to the chef, who deep fries and serves it with a side of chips and salsa salad. But because that takes a lot of time, your guides will call ahead and order. The chef does not reveal the spices used to make my fish, but in my many fish-eating years, I have yet to taste a blend of spices that so complements deepfried tilapia. It is incredible that amidst this slight chaos of the market, you can feel a sense of calm. Perhaps it has something to do with the lake, which is within touching distance. Oh, and after all is said and done, you get to take a short boat ride on the lake. And that ends the tour! After a few moments of taking in the site of the market, we get into the car and I am driven back to Nsambya where it all began. At Food Tours of Uganda, it’s all about the food, and then some more. Check them out at ugandafoodtours.com.

IPS

FISH 'N CH

The guides of Food Tours of Uganda host their guests during a fishing village tour

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CULTURE

Travels among Ugandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

misrepresented IK people

The Ik people were once widely considered among the most diabolical in the world. Mark Eveleigh travelled to their mountain stronghold in far northern Uganda and made some unforgettable new friends. 76

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“Y CULTURE

ou have to be tough to survive here,” an old man told me, “Sometimes witches bring curses to make you weak. They ride on hyenas and whoop around the village to make you die faster.” I had only been among the Ik people for a couple of hours but anything seemed believable. Mzee Mateus Yeya Acok, a headman in Uganda’s most mysterious tribe, was sitting outside the hyena-proof stockade that surrounds Nalemoru, which means simply ‘village on a highpoint’ in Ik. Perched on a wind-swept ridge high over Uganda’s beautiful Kidepo Valley, Nalemoru is well named. In 1972, the Ik became famous in a book called The Mountain People by Oxfordeducated anthropologist Colin Turnbull. According to Turnbull, daily life among the Ik seemed to be a constant series of almost unbelievable atrocities: teenagers gleefully stole food directly from the mouths of the starving elderly, a mother celebrated when a predator relieved her of the responsibility of caring for her child, grandparents joyfully watched a baby crawl into a fire... It made powerful reading and at the time, it shook the world of travel literature. Images of Turnbull’s brutal characters flickered through my brain as Kidepo Valley National Park ranger Phillip Akorongimoe parked his Landcruiser and we began our climb up Morungole Mountain, with two AK47-toting troopers from the Uganda People’s Defence Forces. While things have been peaceful since the disarmament that took place when I last travelled to the region in 2008, there are still regular patrols in this area, which borders Northern Kenya and South Sudan. 'Morungole was considered sacred,' wrote Turnbull, 'I had noticed this by the almost reverential way with which the Ik looked at it - none of the shrewd cunning and cold appraisal with which they regard the rest of the world...' Within an hour of climbing, I was struggling to remind myself that 50 years after those words were written, I was on my way to a rendezvous with the “nastiest” people in the world. This was particularly hard to imagine because Mzee Hillary, a 78

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64-year-old Ik man with a charmingly open smile and a chatty demeanour, had joined our little convoy to guide us to his highland home. As we trekked, he pointed out the sacred fig trees where animal sacrifices are made to bring rain and he showed me shady copses where wild honey is collected to be used in Ik marriage ceremonies. There were groves of medicinal bushes that serve as a natural pharmacy, treating everything from earache, to constipation, to scorpion stings. We were joined by a group of Ik

“I was no closer to solving the mystery of the British anthropologist’s bitter relationship with the tribe...” women and children carrying water from the stream. They seemed determined to fill every minute of the three-hour walk with happy chatter and laughter and I wondered if these people could really be the same tribe that Turnbull travelled among for almost two years, complaining that his efforts to understand them were constantly frustrated by their moody silence. Back then the Ik still lived in the lowlands and although Turnbull tried to convince guides to take him to the peak, he never visited Morungole and describes it in his book as 'a dark mass, always hidden in haze'. Our trail was along a narrow ridge, and it seemed that if I threw a stone out over the great sweeping curve of Kidepo Valley, it would almost land in South Sudan. About 30 miles away in the other direction lay the Turkana country of Northern Kenya. Over the centuries, the Ik had become accustomed to persecution from all sides: they were trapped between warlike tribes

such as the Toposa and Didinga of Sudan and at the mercy of cattle-crazed Turkana warriors from Kenya. “We would buy cattle from the Turkana, but they would follow us home and steal them back. During these raids, many Ik often died,” one old man told me. “It was like a deadly game of football,” my guide Phillip explained. “Sometimes the different tribes played at home. Sometimes they played away. And always the Ik were caught in the middle.” The misty summit rose steeply against gathering storm clouds when we finally reached the Ik’s highest village. The thatched roofs of the bandas (huts) were barely discernible behind the thorny stockade that protects the precious goats from leopards and raiders... and protects the people from hyena-mounted witches. Mzee Paulino Lukuam greeted me with an exchange of the triple-grip handshake that is habitual among many African people. I knew that it had taken Colin Turnbull a long time before he’d been allowed to see inside a village, so I was surprised when Mzee Lukuam invited me into his private compound within minutes of meeting. I had to crouch to crawl through the low door into the round mud-and-thatch banda (which measured about three metres in diameter). I’d read that Ik parents evict their children to sleep outside, curled like dogs, from the age of three, but Mzee Lukuam and his wife shared their little hut with seven children. “Ik culture has never been infiltrated by Western ways,” Phillip told me as we ducked through the asak - the low tunnel out of the family compound. “They’re still proud of a culture which has remained untainted. A unique thing about the Ik compared with other tribes in this area, is that there is virtually no sex outside marriage for women. Most will only ever sleep with one man in their lives.” I wondered how this tradition could have remained alive when, according to Turnbull’s experiences when he lived here from 1965-66, Ik women "regarded their bodies as their greatest assets in the game of survival". I was no closer to solving the mystery of the British anthropologist’s bitter relationship with the tribe. The Ik have been surrounded by mystery for thousands of years. Nobody is sure

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CULTURE

where they originated but linguists have I didn’t mention the contents of the noted similarities between the Ik language book, but: “I heard that he wrote some and speech from southern Egypt. I’d heard impolite things about us,” the old man said. mystifying rumours that their language “If Turnbull ever came back, I would simply was peppered with words that sounded tell him, ‘Please. There is no business here Latin and Phillip had told me that some that we are going to welcome you for. Spanish travellers he’d brought here were Please leave us and go home.’” even able to decipher occasional words. I Mzee Acok is now almost 90 years old questioned old Mzee Acok in Spanish with and believes that he has been blessed with no success whatsoever, but finally he was a long life because as a boy and young man, able to explain the mystery: apparently he always obeyed his parents. As he spoke, an Italian Catholic Priest called Father the younger people and children huddled Florence had lived among the Ik in the ‘60s around us, listening to the old man’s and ‘70s and had left many words behind reminiscences in respectful silence. including a tradition of Christian names. “When I was a boy, we would sit on the When Kidepo Valley National Park plains staring at the peaks of Morungole was gazetted in 1958, the British colonial with its colobus monkeys and great stores government forced the Ik to stop their of wild honey,” he said. “Now we sit on traditional hunting and move to the Morungole shivering in the cold, gazing foothills. By the early 1980s, pressure from over the savannah far below with the neighbouring tribes, along with drought endless game that is now forbidden to us. and famine, forced the Ik to take to the Life has always been hard for the Ik but peak of their sacred mountain. The Ik, now we’re tough. Times will keep changing but dwindled to a total population of about in another thousand years, there will still 10,000, have retreated as far as they can be Ik on Morungole Mountain.” possibly go. Only once did the Ik take Turnbull close Get in the know: to Mount Morungole - to what they called • The Ik believe that Morungole’s 2,759m their ‘Place of God’: '...the Ik had become peak is the domain of their all-powerful increasingly uncommunicative,' he wrote. god Didigwari. 'Never again would they take me near that • Kidepo Valley National Park boasts place, or talk about it. But, as little as I 500 bird species and 86 mammals (28 can be knew, I felt that for a brief moment I had found nowhere else in Uganda). made contact with an elusive reality, a • Uganda’s remotest reserve, the 1,442sq. reality that was fast retreating beyond Ik km Kidepo is often described as Africa’s consciousness.' most beautiful national park. Mzee Acok was a young man when Colin • Neighbouring tribes have such faith Turnbull came to visit and remembers the in the Ik’s rain-calling abilities that anthropologist (who died in 1994). When I they hire them to make the necessary showed him a copy of The Mountain People, animal sacrifices. he was excited to recognise some old friends • Tobacco and wild honey are considered in the aged black-and-white pictures. an indispensable part of the bride price in Ik marriages.

Great Lakes Safaris (www.greatlakessafaris.com) can arrange a four-night Kidepo safari with road transfers - expect an 11-hour drive from Entebbe International Airport. Apoka Safari Lodge (apoka@wildplacesafrica.com) can arrange visits - a three to four hour trek each way - to the Ik’s highland villages.

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ART

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

BARKING UP THE RIGHT TREE Barkcloth was once worn throughout southern Uganda by people of all classes. This ancient craft, an endangered tradition on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list, is now making a revival in the face of some very unusual prejudices. Words and photos by Mark Eveleigh

ART

aul Bukenya Katamiira is sighting up the length of a tree trunk with all the concentration of a professional snooker player lining up a particularly crucial shot. “It’s vital that the first incision should be perfectly straight, right down the side of the tree that catches the most rain,” he says as he slides the tip of his knife into the trunk. Milky sap oozes from the sliced trunk and beads of sweat appear on Katamiira’s forehead as he eases his blade cautiously down the trunk. The outer layer of bark has already been shaved with the panga (machete) and a long-handled tool known as omwambe. This is the preliminary step in an incredibly complex process that can span 40 stages before the barkcloth is finished. In 2005, the art of Ugandan barkcloth production was recognised by UNESCO as a disappearing part of humanity’s intangible cultural heritage, and 60-year-old Katamiira is the direct descendent of nine generations of master craftsmen. The selection of an ideal tree is the crucial first step in a tradition that dates back more than 600 years. The species of fig used is known locally as mutuba (Ficus Natalensis or Natal fig), but Katamiira and his workmates recognise no less than 13 varieties of mutuba, each providing barkcloth that has different properties. “We call this type of tree ensole, but the best barkcloth — the Rolls Royce of barkcloth — comes from a tree we call ntakire,” says Vincent Kajoga, Katamiira’s brother. While Katamiira has produced barkcloth for almost half a century, Kajoga was forced to abandon his vocation to search for work in Kampala, but has recently returned from Uganda's capital. Bukomansimbi Organic Tree Farmers Association (BOTFA) has given these men and others in the community of Kibinge (Southern Uganda) a fresh opportunity to make a living from their barkcloth know-how. Katamiira and Kajoga work quickly and efficiently to minimise stress to the tree, easing the precious inner bark away with a banana-wood wedge called omunukwanukwa. Scouring the inside of the tree with iron at this stage would create scars. The softest barkcloth comes from a tree that is harvested annually. If it’s done carefully, a tree can be harvested for 40 consecutive years. After the inner bark has been eased off, the denuded trunk must be protected by massaging the sap back in and covering any damaged sections with cow dung. The trunk is then wrapped with aging banana leaves for a week to accelerate healing. Fresh green leaves are not used because they would inhibit air circulation. “The creation of Ugandan barkcloth is said to date back to one man,” says artist Fred Kato Mutebi, BOTFA’s founder. “About 600 years ago, a Buganda www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

ECTAERCIIS

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

ART Left: Paul Bukenya Katamiira carefully eases the precious inner bark away from the trunk with a sliver of banana wood which will not damage the bark as would steel.

Top right: Up to 4 different hardwood mallets (ensaamo esaaka) are used, weighing about 3kg and with different grades of ridges - to hammer out the bark.

Bottom right: Barkcloth was worn by many of Uganda's tribes until the arrival of Arab traders and cotton.

king ordered a hunter called Lule Ssonko, from the Ngonge (otter) clan, to teach the art to others. Barkcloth became part of royal ceremonies but was also adopted for everyday wear by Ugandan people and eventually became a trade item of Africa’s Great Lakes region.” Historically, two things caused the demise of the barkcloth industry: in the 1850s, Arab traders and slave traders came with brightly coloured cotton fabrics that quickly supplanted the tan-coloured barkcloth and in 1875, British missionaries arrived, driven by a sacred urge to suppress anything that they considered ‘ungodly’. “Because barkcloth was used in traditional ceremonies, the missionaries labelled it satanic,” Mutebi explains. “Our traditional cloth became demonised to the extent that only a few God-fearing Christians could wear it, with the support of kings, at royal ceremonies.” Some Ugandans associate barkcloth with death and witchcraft. It’s extremely unlikely that anyone would wear barkcloth at village level. To do so would be to incite suspicion that you might be a mulogo (a witch), a traditional healer or a nightdancer - which is our term for a cannibal,” says Katamiira. The production of barkcloth is common among communities right across the tropics. In the Alor Islands of Indonesia, the Kabola tribe still wear outfits made from what they call Kulit Kayu (literally treeskin) and, on New Guinea Island, bark-string bags known as noken (also on UNESCO’s intangible heritage list) are an everyday accessory. We’re squatting in the lean-to workshop on the little homestead where Katamiira’s forefathers settled almost 300 years ago and the men are preparing for the final stages of producing cloth from the roll of bark that they’ve carried back from the forest. The roll must be boiled for a few minutes to remove the sap. “When people are preparing barkcloth for funerals, they’re reluctant to go through all the extra hours of pounding and softening that are essential if you want to make really fine cloth,” Katamiira tells me as his five-year-old grandson sits by wielding a heavy mallet. Known as ensaamo esaaka, these mallets (weighing up to 3kg) are carved from a solid trunk of a forest tree known as nzo and the logs must be buried for at least three months in order to dry them. The mallets will last for decades if, when not in use, they’re wrapped in barkcloth to prevent them from cracking. Katamiira shows me a mallet that was used by his grandfather: “Most workers only have two mallets but we use a set of four, going from heavily ridged edges down to completely smooth.” Katamiira starts hammering all afternoon, and until the equatorial sun has plummeted swiftly onto the horizon, the dull thud of his mallet echoes out of the lean-to. He hammers all the next day too until the sheet of bark has been beaten through at least 30 times and is www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

ART

almost paper thin - by now it has expanded to five times what it measured when it was cut from the trunk. The final stage is to dry the cloth in the sun and this might only take about two hours but sometimes the workers might decide on a longer ‘tanning’ time. Prolonged access to the sun produces a rich tan colour that is reminiscent of the hide of the revered long-horn cattle or even of the red African soil itself. Occasionally, Katamiira produces rare black barkcloth, dyed using time-proven tradition that is now almost forgotten. “There are probably only a few people who still know how to do this,” says Mutebi one morning as we follow Katamiira to the edge of the papyrus swamp that has been used for this purpose for centuries. Katamiira squats on the bank and sifts his fingers through the mud, feeling for just the right consistency of clay. The dye in the mud starts to stain the barkcloth the moment it is submerged but Katamiira knows that the cloth must be buried for three days to be permanently dyed black. (Mutebi has experimented extensively and, bizarrely, the dye does not seem to work with other fabrics.) This black barkcloth - sometimes used to decorate shrines in black magic - is now used almost exclusively in the interior design and fashion worlds. Katamiira and his co-workers at BOTFA are now selling most of their superior quality barkcloth to artists and designers who create items that are turning heads all over the world. Ugandan designer José Hendo (josehendo.com) describes herself as an ecosustainable fashion designer who uses barkcloth in her avantgarde designs. “I’ve been using barkcloth as my primary material for more than 15 years, and have produced more than 200 creations that have been shown on catwalks and exhibitions from Los Angeles to London to Stockholm,” she says. In 2014, Hendo set up the Barkcloth to the Roots initiative (B2TR) and, in collaboration with the Uganda Museum and BOFTA, recently launched a campaign to plant one million mutuba trees. While she focuses on the international fashion scene, Hendo acknowledges that within the country, the industry faces a challenge to ‘take the darkness out of barkcloth’. Barkcloth is finally starting to broach the boundaries of coffin shops and funeral parlours and a multitude of potential uses are now being developed. Pulped off-cuts are being used to create designer paper and the Uganda Industrial Research Institute is investigating the potential to use it to make affordable, biodegradable sanitary pads. Traditionally, the mutuba tree has been a valuable commodity. Apart from the bark and wood (for building), every part of the tree can be used: the young aerial roots counteract high blood-pressure; the sap (when mixed with water) is said to be an aphrodisiac; and the leaves and outer bark are gathered for animal fodder. In contrast to eucalyptus, which is thirstily desiccating and poisoning the wetlands, the mutuba tree is able to raise the water table and barkcloth advocates say it could be a vital agent in the fight against climate change. It seems that the struggle to reboot this ancient tradition is even more important than most people imagined. ‘Mutuba tree, bridging communities, nurturing the environment,’ reads a slogan on the wall of Kibinge Village Primary School. The once ubiquitous mutuba tree could well turn out to be an answer to many of Uganda’s economic, social and environmental problems.

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Right: Ugandan designer José Hendo describes herself as an eco-sustainable fashion designer who uses barkcloth in her unusually sculptural and avantgarde designs.

Opposite page,top right: Although the missionaries had great success in repressing it, barkcloth lived on in traditional burials and is still sold in markets throughout the Buganda region.

ART

HOTEL BUCKET LIST

Best New Hotels of 2019 Mestil Hotel and Residences is located on the periphery of Kampala City, on Nsambya Hill. The hotel presents guests the privilege of living in an exclusive and serene space overlooking the skyline and other historical hills of Kampala, with proximity to embassies, hospitals, art & crafts centres, and fresh food markets. It is the ideal home for business and leisure travellers and families.

The Hilton Garden Hotel is an hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s drive from Entebbe International Airport. It boasts 96 guest rooms with complimentary WiFi, a restaurant, bar, 24-hour room service and convenience store. It also has a business centre and meeting space, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Humura Resort Hotel is a serene Kampala city-based boutique hotel nestled close to one of Uganda Golf Club's greens. Humura is characterised by personalised guest hospitality in an atmosphere fusing lush tropical spaces, modern architecture and African art. The hotel is a 'Luxury Boutique Resort Regional Winner: East Africa, and 'Luxury Boutique Retreat Continent Winner: Africa'

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

HOTEL BUCKET LIST

Speke Apartments Kitante provide modern accommodation in one of the best residential areas of Kampala, ideal for executives and their families who come to Kampala for a short to medium stay. There are 27 one-bedroom and 16 three-bedroom apartments, all ensuite, fully furnished and equipped with all the gadgets required for a modern home.

La Venti Hotel and Spa is a luxury four-star hotel with 15 rooms. Airport transfer service, valet parking and housekeeping service, as well as a luggage storage and a car park, are on hand. Other facilities include a spa and sauna, and soundproof rooms.

Protea Hotel Kampala Skyz provides express check-in and check-out, non-smoking rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi and a garden. The property has a bar, restaurant and shared lounge. The accommodation features a 24-hour front desk, room service and currency exchange for guests. Couples particularly like the location â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it was rated 8.6 for a two-person trip!

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ROOM WITH A VIEW

LATITUDE 0

THE HOTTEST NEW PLACE TO STAY IN KAMPALA

The Latitude Hotels Group have brought a new urban hotel vibe to Kampala with the opening of Latitude 00 Hotel. Quite different from the usual big corporate hotel offerings in the city, Latitude Hotels have bridged the gap by offering a boutique-chic hotel as slick as the most sought after in Europe but with a hip African influence. Its high-up position overlooking Lake Victoria gives a feeling of escape whilst being very close to the city. The ambience at Latitude 00 is more that of an art gallery than a hotel - the interiors are stunning and each painting, item of furniture or sculpture tells its own story. Whether it’s the inclusion of street kids in the artistic process, the creation of something exquisite from discarded waste, or the scouring of local markets for historic treasures to breathe new life into, it’s an exciting place just to visit let alone stay the night. Latitude 00 — named after its position on the equator, is located on the outskirts of Kampala atop the peak of the quiet, leafy suburb of Makindye, 45 minutes from Entebbe International Airport. It has 47 airy rooms all with lake or city views and decorated in a modern African style with a cosmopolitan twist. Facilities include an exceptional restaurant, bar and lounge, stylish rooftop bar, spa plus a fitness centre with an 18-metre swimming pool overlooking the lake. Latitude 00 has recognised the needs of working business travellers and created ‘The Works’, a whole floor set up as a business environment with private workspaces and meeting rooms. ‘The Other Side’ is a private members club that offers a separate lounge/den, bar and dining area, along with a games room, elegant cigar lounge and screening room. Latitude 00 is the third hotel in the group, in addition to Latitude 130 in Lilongwe and Latitude 150 in Lusaka. Future hotel projects are currently being developed in Addis Ababa, with plans for Dar es Salaam, Nairobi and Harare in the coming years. www.thelatitudehotels.com

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ROOM WITH A VIEW

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FASHION

Aamito Lagum

Aketch Joy Winnie

Joram Muzira Job

Aliet Sarah

Ayak Veronica Bior

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

Akello Patricia

Paul Mwesigwa

Joram Muzira Uganda’s fashion wizard

t’s impossible to talk about fashion in Uganda and leave out Joram Muzira, the fiercely animated talent manager behind the success of Uganda’s most celebrated fashion models working in Milan, Paris, London and New York. His first success story, Aamito Lagum, was winner of Africa’s Next Top Model and went on to become one of the faces of Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2015 ad campaign. She also closed Zac Posen’s Fall 2016 collection which was apt, as the designer had sought inspiration from the Oxford-educated Ugandan royal, Princess Elizabeth Bagaya, to put the collection together. Muzira opened Joram Model Management in 2011, a boutique agency that scouts, trains and mothers models before placing them with international agencies broad. The start wasn’t rosy though. This whole idea was a dream until 2012 when he landed the vantage role of scouting models for Sylvia Owori’s Forever Love fashion show. “I was an avid fan of America’s Top Model, so this was just me exercising everything I had seen on the show,” he says. Owori was impressed beyond measure and when companies like MTN and Pepsi contacted her for models, she referred them to him. Soon after, his fierce work ethic attracted the attention of international brands such as Adele Dejak, a Kenya-based Italian accessories designer who booked him to produce her fashion event and also avail models. However, the power of his model agency wasn’t felt until 2014 when Aamito Lagum took part in the first season of Africa’s Next Top Model, which she eventually won. Lagum was signed to DNA

FASHION

time emphatically. This strategy was still working in his favour even in Uganda. “With the global success I had, and the professionalism I was working with, local companies came to us as the agency of choice for advertising jobs,” he adds. Joram Model Management soon evolved into a boutique agency. Unlike other top model agencies which offer clients almost everything, boutique agencies are usually smaller and cater to special needs such as high fashion, glamour, plus-size, child and male models, advertising, editorial or even body parts photography. Models, a globally renowned model agency “International bookers are always which represents big names such as Naomi on the lookout for African girls and boys Campbell. She immediately relocated to with a high-fashion look, so that’s how we Cape Town before heading to New York. come in,” he states. Muzira’s job is to scout, “This was a real game-changer. It’s nurture, groom and develop potential then that I realised the power I had before models into stars, who are then placed with me,” he muses. During Lagum’s welcome international agencies in bigger markets in party after Africa’s Next Top Model, Europe and the US. Muzira held a small fashion show which Muzira is also involved in his featured a number of designers. It is then models’ lives before and after these big that Patricia Akello, who is Lagum’s cousin, opportunities come their way. This came into the picture. includes collaborating with local “Lagum insisted that I put her in photographers and designers for photo the show which I did, considering she shoots to develop the models' catalogues had more international experience than since there are not many high-fashion gigs I.” Akello is very tall with very broad and in Kampala. prominent cheekbones. This was a high “I also get them press and media fashion goldmine, he would later learn. coverage to boost their chances of True to Lagum’s advice, Akello was booked obtaining international visas when the by all the designers on the event’s lineup. opportunity comes through.” He is in “It dawned on me that I had found touch with some of the booking agents at another star,” he snaps his fingers with all the international agencies; these are his famous animated demeanour. Muzira contacts he has earned over the years. went back to work, this time with a plan. “I “Sometimes when I travel abroad for wanted her to leave the country. She had no work, I make time to meet these bookers place here in Uganda,” he asserts. Indeed, and build relationships with them. That’s shortly after, Akello was booked by Fusion the only way to it. Otherwise, I’d have no Model Management in Cape Town. access,” he explains. In modelling terms, Joram Model But isn’t this investing way too much Management had become the ‘mother into something that ‘just might turn to agency’ of two models. Mother agencies gold’? “We have a lot of potential stars here, scout, groom and prepare their models to it is possible to have more than 20 models work with other agencies in other markets working abroad. The market is hungry for or locations where there are top-tier black African faces,” he explains. modelling jobs. Ten per cent of each job the This isn’t far from the truth. Last year, model signs is remitted to the mother agent. South Sudanese-Australian star Adut This experience gave Muzira direction Akech landed the highly coveted title of for his modelling agency. “My attention ‘Model of the Year’, beating immediately veered away from Uganda. well-connected models such as Kendall I wanted my models in Milan, London, Jenner, who is Kim Kardashian’s half-sister, New York and Paris,” he almost roars, this

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FASHION

Aketch Joy Winnie modelling in the BMW Worldwide Campaign 2019

and Gigi Hadid. “The time is now for our girls and boys to shine, it’s now or never. That’s why I feel like I’m only just started,” he emphasizes. After two years in South Africa and doing outstandingly well, Akello moved to New York in 2016, making her New York fashion debut. She has since gone on to appear in magazines such as Vogue Italia, Glamour, Grazia, L’officiel and more plus an exclusive advertising campaign for Fenty Beauty, Rihanna’s beauty line. Following in these footsteps, Muzira placed Aliet Sarah with Ford Models in New York and Storm in London, where she made her debut early this year and instantly became one of the models to watch. “Aliet is definitely the future. I knew the day I scouted her during a model search at Makerere University Busines School that I had met another goldmine,” he reveals. The 18-year-old star was born in South Sudan but grew up in Kampala. She has since moved to Canada where she’s based now. Another star, six-foot-tall Ayak Veronica, made her debut during Valentino’s Paris Couture show this year. “This show was an absolute dream. I was almost in tears watching my ‘baby’ walk alongside Naomi Campbell, Ajak Deng, Grace Bol,

Liya Kebede and every black supermodel now.” And for someone building a base, he known,” he recalls. has done quite well so far. His is recognised Ayak quietly flew from Kampala to Paris as one of the top boutique model agencies just for this show, kick-starting her career on the continent. Recently, he launched on a high note. Interestingly, the 18-yearthe brand’s website, where he can scout and old’s dreams were almost shattered because place models globally. “It took me this long all agencies considered her ‘too tall’. “We because I wanted something really good were turned down by many agencies. I guess with international appeal,” he explains. the timing wasn’t right then,” Muzira says. The new venture is already paying off Ayak is now signed to Marilyn Agency in as recently, two of his models, 18-year-old New York and Paris, D’Management Group Adut Mary Chol and 21-year-old Ayen in Milan and Francina Models in Barcelona. Emily, made their international debut Others include Aketch Joy Winnie (who during Gucci’s Spring 2020 Show during made her international debut walking for Milan Fashion Week. Shortly after, 19-yearGucci before landing an exclusive global old Riak Sarah Majak got signed to MP advertising campaign for BMW) and Paul Management and flew to Paris for Paris Mwesigwa, who made a splash in South Fashion Week. Africa before moving to New York this year. When everything falls in place as per the These placements don’t necessarily plan, his dream is to snag the Miss Universe translate to cash. “Models have to work franchise for Uganda. This will set him fiercely hard to stand out from the sea of back about $100,000 for four years. “That’s other black models who are just as good,” he why I work like I’ve only just started and explains. At the end of the day, the success just as passionately. My dreams are too big of any boutique agency relies on the success for me to sit around and do nothing,” he of the models it represents. “If the model concludes. isn’t making money, we aren’t too,” he adds. Surprisingly, money is the least of Muzira’s worries right now. “I’d like to have For Joram’s profile, please visit more than 20 girls and boys out there doing www.jorammodelmanagement.com Words by Hassan Ssentongo @satisfashionug big things. I’m just building my base right

Aamito Lagum

Ayak Veronica

Aliet Sarah

Modelling Agencies New York: IMG Paris: IMG Paris

Modelling Agencies New York: Marilyn Agency Paris: Marilyn Agency Milan: D'Management Group London: The Squad Barcelona: Francina Models

Modelling Agencies New York: Ford Models Paris: MP Paris Milan: MP Milan London: Storm Management Barcelona: Francina Models

Based in New York

Based in Paris

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

Joram with Aamito Lagum in New York

Based in New York

Aketch Joy Winnie

Based in New York Modelling Agencies New York: Fusion Models Milan: Special Management Barcelona: Francina Models Hamburg: M4 Models

Akello Patricia

Paul Mwesigwa

Based In New York

Based in New York

Modelling Agencies New York: Muse Management Hamburg: M4 Models

Modelling Agencies London: PRM Milan: D'management Group Spain: FRANCINA South Africa: TWENTY Uganda: JMM (Mother Agency) New York: RED

TRENDS

the new It’s a new dawn! The ‘80s neons are back, and fashion has never been brighter. It’s not just any kind of brightness, it’s the blinding type. While it’s scary to dabble into this brightness, don’t let that deter you from having fun with the hottest colour trend of the season. Glow in the dark with a colour spectrum that has bubblegum pink, lime green, chartreuse, violet red, fluorescent yellow, electric crimson and more. See how to incorporate neon into not just your personal style, but also your life.

Find at: Dogtas Solution, Spear House, Jinja Road

Words and images by Hassan Ssentongo.

Find at: Dogtas Solution, Spear House, Jinja Road

Find at: Mwaj Store, Equatorial Mall

Find at: ICONIC UG, Senana Mall basement, Buganda Road

Find at: Abryanz Collection, Garden City Mall

Find at: Pearch Communications, Kampala Road

Find at: Millenium Exclusive, Acacia Mall Find at: ICONIC UG, Senana Mall basement, Buganda Road

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TRAVEL TIPS

Travel Insurance for African Safaris 8 FACTORS TO CONSIDER

HEADING TO AFRICA FOR A SAFARI? HEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BUYING THE BEST TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR YOUR TRIP. Words by Bryan and Dena Haynes

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

efore we delve into the specific details of travel insurance policies, let’s clear up a few myths and misconceptions about general coverage. If it’s your first time exploring the African savannah, you’ll probably feel safer with travel insurance in your back pocket. However, here are a few circumstances where some aspects could be redundant: • If your credit card company has a forgiveness policy for cancelled flights, you won’t need to be concerned about that as part of your travel insurance policy. • If the airline will assume the liability for lost luggage, you won’t need that included in your travel insurance policy because they will compensate you for the loss of your camera equipment and anything else that goes missing. • If your health insurance extends internationally as well as domestically, you won’t need to worry about a travel insurance policy that covers surprise injuries. • On the flip side, if you don’t have any cards, carriers, warranties, policies or existing insurance plans that will cover travel-related mishaps, travel insurance might be exactly what you need to ensure a safe journey. How To Choose Your Travel Insurance Policy: 8 Factors Now that we’ve defined basic travel insurance, let’s take a look at what constitutes a good policy. 1. Medical Coverage Limit, Including Emergency Evacuation For a trip to Africa, it’s recommended that you look for medical insurance worth $50,000 - $100,000. Not only will this cover you for a couple of weeks in the hospital, but it will also satisfy visa requirements for certain countries. Additionally, you’ll want to look for another $100,000 in emergency evacuation coverage. It might sound expensive, but being ferried or airlifted to a medical facility outside of Africa will cost you a pretty penny. It’s better to pay a slightly higher insurance rate than a massive bill after an unfortunate accident. 2. Possessions: Lost/ Damaged/ Stolen Gear This is often called “baggage insurance”, and is critically important to buy if your airline or hotel doesn’t offer it. Africa is a wonderful place, but while luggage can get lost (and never found) on a domestic flight — it’s even worse internationally. Get everything insured before you hit the open grasslands for a safari. Some policies will cover not only lost luggage but also lost documents and even laptops, binoculars and camera gear. 3. Pre-existing Conditions Waiver Some travel insurance companies won’t want to insure you if you have a pre-existing medical condition. However, this doesn’t mean that you can’t get coverage. You just have to look for providers that offer a “pre-existing conditions waiver” that will cover you anyway. You might need to meet certain criteria to qualify, but if you’re willing to jump through the hoops, you can get medical coverage just like anyone else.

TRAVEL TIPS 4. Age Limitations In the same vein as above, some insurers will look twice at your application if you’re above or below a certain age. Make sure to inquire about age limitations for children and seniors when you call. 5. Weather Coverage African weather can range from gloriously sunny days to intense rainstorms. Do some research before you book your flight! If you can only afford to travel during the rainy season, you’ll want more coverage than if you were travelling in temperate climates. Another thing to consider about the weather is how you’ll be compensated by the insurance company if things do get wet. Here are some questions that you might ask: *Will they refund delayed or cancelled flights? *Will they cover the cost of travel to a new location if the old one has been battered or flooded? Will they compensate you for power outages that make hotels unlivable? *Will you receive cash, credit or travel vouchers for your trouble? *Will they cover the cost of an emergency evacuation during a natural disaster? 6. Trip Cancellation Are the wildebeests having a later migration than usual? If you had planned your trip around their migration, you may want to cancel. Trip cancellations are when you alter your plans before you leave home. 7. Trip Interruption Do you want to spend more time observing the spoonbills and hoopoes? Trip interruptions are when you alter your plans after you’re already on the move. They’re different from trip cancellations, so double-check that your travel insurance policy offers both. 8. Trip Delay Trip delays are when flights, ferries, cruises and trains put you way behind schedule. There are usually terms that dictate what does and doesn’t qualify as a delay; for example, you might have to wait for 5-10 hours for an overbooked flight before your insurance covers the cost of a new ticket. This is another area where you’ll need to do some research before committing to anything. What Isn’t Covered By (Most) Travel Insurance? While every travel insurance company will have their own limitations, there are a few things that the average provider won’t cover. If you want to base jump while you’re in Tanzania, you’re on your own! The Bottom Line When you travel to Africa, you aren’t going on a simple vacation. You’re going on an adventure. Consider all your options when looking for the best travel insurance for Africa, and make sure that you’re protected for your journey to one of the most amazing continents in the world.

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TRAVEL TIPS

Safari packing list A good safari boot is a must when it comes to safari wear and bushwalks. It does not matter what you wear on safari if you don’t have good safari shoes.

PJs: You will want to be comfortable so you can get a good night's sleep.

A money belt is always a great idea when travelling – especially internationally.

Avoid nausea and motion sickness by wearing a relief band. It uses electrostimulation to disrupt the sickening signals that your brain sends to your body when you experience nausea.

Swimsuit: Most lodges and camps have a pool.

A scarf will protect your face from blowing debris.

NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

The best safari hat will block out the sun and keep those dangerous rays away from your skin and eyes.

Taking photographs is a must in the bush. If you don’t want to get stuck with sub-par pictures, arm yourself with a good waterproof/shockproof camera.

TRAVEL TIPS

Travel health

Don't let sickness stifle your safari plans. Here are tips to help you have a healthy trip in Uganda.

Weather Calendar

BEST TIME TO VISIT UGANDA MONTH BY MONTH

Yellow fever health card

A must for most African nations, get these from your doctor, and don’t wait until the last minute! Aside from vaccinations, don’t forget your necessary medications. According to the CDC, yellow fever vaccination is required to enter Uganda if you are travelling from a country with risk of transmission.

First aid kit

Out in the African bush, the nearest town could be hours or even days away. This means catching a cold could turn into a miserable experience. That is why it’s important to pack some cough drops, Sudafed, diarrhoea medication, Aspirin, Dramamine, and allergy medication. Avoid bringing a real first aid kit, as most lodges and guides have their own. Simply think about what you may need if you start feeling sick.

Prescriptions

Before you get on the plane, make sure you have all of your necessary prescriptions. You may even want to ask the doctor for Cipro. This medication will help in times of intense stomach pain. Everyone’s body reacts differently when exposed to different microbes, and you won’t want to stay behind due to a sick stomach. Furthermore, check with your tour company to see if malaria medication should be on your list.

January to February

This is one of the two best times to visit Uganda because this is considered a dry season with little to no rainfall. It is a popular time for trekking mountain gorillas and chimpanzees as well as birdwatching and viewing a variety of wildlife.

March to May

This is when the Uganda climate changes to one of the wet seasons. Some rains can be heavy, causing flooding and road inaccessibility. However, if you don’t mind the rain, you could save money during this time with reduced accommodation rates. You will also appreciate the lush scenery and abundance of migratory birds during this period.

June to August

Another dry season, this period is one of the best times to visit for wildlife viewing. It is possible that you could see some rains during these months, but it most likely will not ruin your itinerary.

September to October While you can expect rainfall during these months, you should still be able to enjoy excellent opportunities to view wildlife.

Hand sanitiser

November

Sleep aids

December

Why not protect yourself as much as possible? Getting sick on vacation sucks, but getting sick on a safari could be disastrous. There are times when clean water for hand washing will not be available.

A good night’s sleep is important to fully enjoy your time on a safari. Lack of sleep can lead to a bad attitude and eye fatigue. If you have a problem falling or staying asleep in new places, bring what you need. This could be Melatonin, Z-Quil, Ambien, or any legal sleep aid.

November is when you may experience heavy rain showers turning the landscape green again. This is another good time to see migratory birds.

December is when the rains slack off and temperatures start to rise along with tracking rates. If you can’t stand the heat, December may present a better month to visit than January and February.

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TRAVEL TIPS

Travel

GUIDE

Welcome to the Pearl!

Getting Around 1.Transfer to the city/your hotel Thanks to reliable Internet at the airport, it's possible for you to order an Uber ride to your next destination in Kampala or Entebbe. If you are in a hurry, you can take advantage of the availability of the many cabs at the airport whose drivers are always stationed at the arrivals terminal, ready for a win-win bargain with travellers. 2.Visa Visitors to Uganda must have a valid visa in accordance with national immigration laws, guidelines and formalities. Uganda visas can now be obtained online at https://visas.immigration.go.ug/ Alternatively, you may obtain the visa at Uganda's missions abroad or on arrival at the ports of entry around the country’s borders. The costs of visas are as follows: Single entry $50 per individual, multiple entry visa 6-12 months $100 and East African tourist visas cost $50. Accompany your application documents with a valid yellow fever certificate. For more information, visit https://visas.immigration. go.ug/ 3. Nationals who don’t need visas Nationals of the following countries don’t need visas when visiting Uganda: COMESA (Angola, Eritrea, Malawi, Madagascar, Seychelles, Swaziland, Zambia, Comoros, Kenya, Mauritius, Zimbabwe and Botswana), East Africa (Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania and Burundi), others (Antigua, Barbados, Fiji, Grenada, Lesotho, Sierra Leone, Solomon Islands, The Grenadines, Vanuatu, Ghana, Cyprus, Bahamas, Belize, Gambia, Jamaica, Malta, Singapore, St. Vincent-Tonga and Ireland).

Important Contacts EMERGENCY CONTACTS Uganda Ambulance Services: Mob +256782556878 Medical flight evacuations: Mob Aero Club, Fly Uganda Mob +256772712557 Uganda Police: Emergency 999/112. UPF Headquarters +256414233814; +256414250613. Department of Immigration: Mob +256414595945 OTHER CONTACTS Uganda Wildlife Authority (manages national parks): +256414355000/+256312355000 Uganda Tourism Board: +256414342196/7

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General Information VOLTAGE The primary wall outlet type is Type G (BS-1363). Voltage is 220-240 volts AC @ 50 Hz. Laptops and gadgets in general have chargers that are already compatible with 100-240 volts. If yours is higher or lower, you will need a simple plug adapter. The recommended adapter for a Type G outlet is #EA7. SECURITY Uganda’s towns are safe to visit any time of the year. This development has been achieved through effective collaboration of the different security organs like the army (Uganda People’s Defence Forces), Uganda Police and Tourism Police. That said, like any other city, Kampala too has its share of trouble makers. It is thus not advisable to walk alone in isolated areas, especially at night. WATER If is safer to drink boiled or bottled water. The average price of bottled water is Shs1,000 per 500ml. TRANSPORT The easiest and fastest way to get around cities is boda boda rides, a motorbike mode of transportation that offers taxi services; each is limited to carrying one passenger. The most professional service provider in this case is Uber Boda, Safe Boda and Taxify, all of which can be accessed via their mobile phone applications. If you prefer using vehicles/cabs and wish to avoid traffic, the recommended time for travel is 6:00am-8:00am, 10:30am-12:00pm, 3:00pm-5:00pm. LANGUAGE Uganda is home to over 50 ethnic groups, the majority of whom speak the national language, English. If you wish to get interpreters of foreign languages, visit the website of your country’s high commission / embassy in Kampala. FINANCIAL TRANSACTIONS The most used currency is Uganda Shillings, the national currency. Tourist areas and facilities accept foreign currencies too, particularly US dollars. Cash is the preferred means of transaction in Uganda. Credit cards are less dependable because the Internet could be down. FOREX The foreign exchange rates at forex bureaus are more favourable than those at banks. The main street of most towns is where you will find the highest concentration of forex bureaus. In Kampala, go to Jinja-Kampala road. BANKING AND OFFICE HOURS Most commercial banks and corporate offices operate from 8:00am-5:00pm on weekdays and 9:00am-midday on Saturdays. Most don’t open on Sundays.

A view of Kampala City by night

TRAVELLER REVIEW

STEPHEN CUNLIFFE

Based in South Africa, Cunliffe is a travel writer and avid conservationist whose work appears in prestigious magazines such as Africa Geographic and Travel Africa.

“While primates definitely top the safari agenda here, Uganda is home to much, much more! Spilling out of gigantic Lake Victoria, the White Nile offers world-class whitewater rafting at Jinja and further downstream, the impressive Murchison Falls thunder through one of the country’s most scenically spectacular national parks. Uganda also lays claim to Africa’s highest mountain range, the Rwenzoris, along with some of the region’s more uncrowded and attractive wildlife areas. In my opinion, Uganda’s greatest safari attraction remains hidden and undiscovered in a far-flung corner of this diverse country. Unknown to all but the most committed and adventurous safari-goers, the wild Kidepo Valley beckons wildlife enthusiasts looking for an off-the-beaten-track safari experience in a world-class park that they can call their own. From Queen Elizabeth National Park, the country’s premier safari destination, in the east, to the remote wilderness savannahs of Kidepo National Park in the northwest, there is little doubt that Uganda truly has it all.”

WHAT TRAVEL EXPERTS THINK ABOUT UGANDA The best way to know what to expect of a destination is to seek what the experts say. Here are three travel experts who have visited Uganda over five times and what they think about it.

PHILIP BRIGGS

Briggs is an acclaimed travel writer and author of many guidebooks, including the Bradt guides to Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya and South Africa.

MARK EVELEIGH

Eveleigh is a travel writer who grew up in Africa and has written over 700 titles for CNN Traveller, Travel Africa, BBC Wildlife and others. He is from the United Kingdom.

“Uganda has everything that her famous neighbour Kenya has, plus such once-in-a-lifetime sightings like gorillas and chimpanzees. Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks are justifiably the country’s biggest draw cards, but if you have time, head for Kidepo Valley National Park (in the far north, bordering Sudan). I hesitate to make such a rash statement (with so much of Africa offering so much incredible safari potential... and with so much of it that I am still to see), but if I was pushed into a vote, I would say that Kidepo is probably the most stunning National Park in all of Africa!”

“Uganda’s central attraction is the opportunity to track one of the world’s last surviving mountain gorilla populations on the misty green slopes of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest or Mgahinga National Park. This is arguably the ultimate African wildlife encounter: the simple exhilaration attached to first setting eyes on one of these gentle giants is difficult to describe. These are enormous animals — a male silverback weighs three times as much as the average man, its bulk is exaggerated by a shaggily luxuriant coat — but they are also astonishingly peaceable, with the initially disconcerting but ultimately winning habit of staring deep into the eyes of human visitors, with soft brown eyes that appear to be seeking out some sort of connection. True, that magical hour with Uganda’s gorillas is relatively expensive and the trek up can sometimes be hard work, but in almost 30 years writing about Uganda, I have yet to meet anybody who has gone gorilla trekking and regretted the financial or physical expense.”

For expert opinions on Uganda, visit www.safaribookings.com. It is one of the largest online market places for African safari tours. 106 NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

BOOK SHELF

Our best travel book recommendations Seeking inspiration for your next Africa trip? Pick up a book, be it a biography, historical page-turner or mesmerising novel. Our top Africa travel books all feature irresistible African settings and protagonists (real and fictionalised) who show tremendous passion, resilience and humanity in the face of adversity. We bet you’ll want to get on that plane to these destinations before you’ve turned the last page!

AFRICA: ALTERED STATES, ORDINARY MIRACLES By Richard Dowden “I write chiefly for outsiders, those who have not been to Africa but would like to know more about it.” Having worked in Africa for the last 40 years as a teacher, journalist and documentary filmmaker, Richard Dowden is indeed well equipped to tell us more. Attempting to find out why Africa is the way it is, he takes his readers on a journey throughout the African nations and their challenging yet inspiring pasts. An Africa travel book that will definitely make you think.

BLOOD RIVER: A JOURNEY TO AFRICA’S BROKEN HEART By Tim Butcher Published to rave reviews in the UK, Blood River is the courageous — and dangerous — story of Daily Telegraph correspondent Tim Butcher’s expedition along the Congo River, following in the footsteps of explorer H. M. Stanley. The book is an un-put-downable narrative chronicling Butcher’s 44-day journey along the 3,000-mile waterway. Blood River is for anyone seeking inspiration for their next African adventure — but perhaps don’t head to the Congo with just a backpack and a few thousand dollars hidden in your shoes, as the author did!

THE ELEPHANT WHISPERER: MY LIFE WITH THE HERD IN THE AFRICAN WILD By Lawrence Anthony with Graham Spence The late South African author and conservationist Lawrence Anthony devoted his life to protecting the world’s most endangered species. The Elephant Whisperer depicts his time bonding with a herd of ‘rogue’ elephants, which he saved from being killed by taking them in as his ‘family’. Set in the lush backdrop of the Thula Thula Game Reserve in Zululand, the book makes for a riveting and at times heartbreaking read that is sure to inspire animal lovers — and will make you book your next safari trip straightaway.

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NG’AALI KIDS

A LION KING

safari across Africa

The latest Lion King movie release is giving children around the world a taste of Africa. The filmmakers used the stunning landscapes of East Africa as inspiration to tell the story of Simba (Swahili for lion), a young lion who is to become King of the Pride Lands. Filled with lovable characters and catchy songs, the movie has encouraged families across the globe to add Africa to their travel bucket list and meet Simba, Pumba and Timone in real life! If you want to safari like a king, take a look at our top recommendations to see some of our favourite Lion King characters. Lions You’ll find ‘The King’ across East and Southern Africa in Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda, and Botswana. Head to Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda and look out for the resident male, Mr Sankara, and his brothers on the Kasenyi Plains. The Masai Mara in Kenya is a great place to see large family prides just like Mufasa's. Wildebeest The best way to see wildebeest in action is to witness the Great Migration. The Great Migration is a huge annual movement of vast numbers of wildebeest, zebras and gazelles searching for food and water between Tanzania and Kenya, it is truly something to behold just like in the film! Hyenas Hyenas are known for being sneaky and untrustworthy, but are actually very intelligent animals. They live across Southern and East Africa, often in big groups with a female in charge. You may remember that in the film the hyenas have a wicked “laugh”, but this is actually a sound made to alert other group members to food — it can be heard up to three miles away! You can see spotted hyena in national parks across East and Southern Africa. Meerkats Characters like Timon can be found in Botswana’s Makgadikgadi Pans and across the Kalahari Desert stretching from Botswana to South Africa. Meerkats like to use the highest ground to keep a look out for predators. They hunt and eat insects, scorpions, small lizards, and snakes – no wonder Simba and Pumba lived off a diet of ‘grubs’ when with Timon! 110 NG”AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

Warthogs Pumba (meaning silly or foolish in Swahili) may not be the prettiest of animals, but they are definitely a highlight to see in the wild. Warthogs are found across East and Southern Africa. Head to Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth national parks, where you have a high chance of spotting them darting across the grasslands — you’ll often spot their antenna-like tail high up in the air first! Mandrills Whilst in the film Rafiki (meaning friend in Swahili) lived in the Pride Lands with the lions, Mandrills are naturally found in tropical rainforests. You’ll find them in Congo, Cameroon, Gabon or Equatorial Guinea. Did you know they are the world’s largest species of monkey? Hornbills Zazu is a red-billed hornbill who, despite being quite grumpy, only has Simba’s best interests at heart. Their curved bill is great for digging, and they live on a diet of fruit, insects and small animals. This distinctive bird is found in woodlands and savannahs across Southern and East Africa. Uganda is home to several types of hornbill — head to Budongo Forest Reserve for great sightings.

Bring this cinematic story with your favourite characters to life with an adventure of a lifetime on a Uganda Airlines flight, and visit some of the best safari locations across East Africa.

NG’AALI KIDS

Fun activities for kids in Kampala

Crocodiles are a common sight in Africa and there are four main types: the Nile, Slender-snouted, West African and Dwarf crocodiles. Nile crocodiles are found anywhere with a water source. They like rivers, lakes, marshes, streams, swamps and dams. The Nile is a fresh water river — with its headwaters in Lake Victoria — and that’s why Nile crocodiles love it so much. Below are some ‘snappy’ facts about the Nile croc. They have one of the strongest bites in the animal kingdom, exerting a force eight times greater than that of the fearsome Great White Shark. They can swim underwater for 30 minutes before coming to the surface for oxygen. They can take down a full-sized hippopotamus. Everything is prey, including humans and fellow crocodiles. Nile crocodiles are thought to live for 70 - 100 years. They can survive for years without a meal - their tail stores fat during drought. They have clawed hands and webbed hind feet which make them masters both in water and on land. Female crocodiles are protective mothers. They use their massive jaws to transport their newly hatched young to a ‘nursery pool’ where they guard them from predators. The sex of crocodile hatchlings is determined by the temperature at which the eggs incubate. At 30ºC or less they will be mostly female, at 31ºC they will be mixed, while at 32ºC they will be mostly male. Large crocodiles swallow stones known as gastroliths, which act as a weight in the stomach, helping them to balance their bodies while underwater.

All the above places can be found on Facebook and Google.

Where Was I?

Twins George and Charlie, age 11, from the UK Send us your “Where was I?” pictures to feature in our magazine! Email us at dbarungi@twendeuganda.com *Mweya Safari Lodge, Queen Elizabeth National Park*

Curious ABOUT Crocs!

Visit Big Mike's Taekwondo Club at Plot 19, Acacia Avenue, Kololo, Kampala. Call +256706181565 Visit the zoo in Entebbe and see all kinds of wildlife, including the Big 5. At Adrift Adventure Club, enjoy mountain biking, hiking, and whitewater rafting. Contact them at 14, York Terrace, Kololo. Uganda Baseball and Softball Association has daily practice at Kyambogo and Nsambya, and games on weekends for both children and adults. Music lovers can attend Kampala Music School at Plot 18, Kitante Close, Kampala. Here, you will get to study western classical music and jazz.

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ROUTES AND FARES

114 NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

ROUTES AND FARES

Expansion Route Map

Promotional rates NAIROBI

2x Daily (Mon-Sun)

JUBA

2x Daily (Mon-Sun)

MOGADISHU

4x Weekly (Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun)

DAR ES SALAAM

Daily (Mon-Sun)

BUJUMBURA

3x Weekly (Mon, Wed, Fri)

MOMBASA

3x Weekly (Tue, Fri, Sun)

KILIMANJARO

3x Weekly (Mon, Wed, Sun)

ONE WAY

RETURN

$138

$245

$173

$263

$343

$598

$188

$302

$213

$324

$232

$348

$198

$312

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African financial services space as you know it. Some of the features we have planned include but are not limited to; personal loans, travel insurance payments, bill splitting, virtual debit

cards and group savings. We do not plan on taking on this burden alone. We will create a

financial services marketplace where other innovative startups can sell their products and

services to our customers. For example, we are finalising a deal to introduce personal loans in-app provided by one of Africa’s leading banks.

Most of all, as we increase our capacity, we will introduce USSD (offline) channels for those

that do not have access to smartphones or the Internet on the continent. We believe everyone

should have access to easy and affordable financial services.

Our experience in the financial technology sector has given us an advantage in

understanding the regulatory landscape. We have put together a team to work with regulators

across the continent and ensure compliance.

Over the past several months, we have been building the platform. Our engineers in

Eversend: MAKING MONEY BORDERLESS A new way to exchange, manage and send your money We’ve embarked on a big mission: to create a better

way for people to manage and access their money. The

idea is a product of our experience founding and running

microcredit and remittance companies over the years. We realised that people on the African continent need better

options of sending money from one country to another. We

kept getting questions from remitters who wanted to move

money from Uganda to Kenya, Rwanda to Tanzania, Nigeria

to Ghana.

Today, the easiest way for the average individual to

achieve this is by using their bank or a brick and mortar

money transfer company. The bank will charge $80 in fees to

transfer $200 – although you probably think you are paying

$30 due to hidden fees. Brick and mortar money transfer

companies will charge 12–22% (Source: Send Money Africa

report 2016 — African Union, Africa Institute of Remittances). We believe there’s something inherently wrong with

that and we are going to change it. Eversend has developed powerful technology in terms of security and access. We

have launched our Android and iOS applications and the

reception has been great. Currently, our users can send

money to Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania with plans

to add Ghana, Nigeria, Ethiopia and Egypt in the near future.

Transfers on Eversend are instant.

We have also added a currency exchange feature to avoid

exorbitant airport money exchange shops. All you have to do is add money to your Eversend wallet from mobile money or

VISA and Mastercard, exchange it into another currency in

the app and send it to mobile money platforms in any of our recipient countries.

We will not stop at that. As we progress, we will introduce

innovative technologies and features that will change the

Kampala, New Delhi, Nairobi and Paris have endured many sleepless nights to work in sync

and bring this dream to life. We have implemented worldclass security to ensure our client

data and transactions are protected. In the few months since the launch, we’ve garnered

30,000 installs and transferred millions of dollars. Our users love our exchange rates, speed and simple design.

Search for “Eversend” in the Google Play Store or Apple App Store to install and join the

payments revolution. Say goodbye to expensive currency exchange and money transfer.

Stone Atwine is a Paris-based Ugandan entrepreneur. He is the Co-founder and CEO of Eversend.

NEWS

Uganda Airlines to use Airbus A330-800 aircraft for long haul network

On April 18, 2019, Uganda National Airline Company Ltd firmed up its order for two brand-new Airbus A330-800 airliners, the latest version of the popular A330 wide-body airliner. Uganda Airlinesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; memorandum of understanding with Airbus for two A330-800neo jetliners had earlier been announced at the Farnborough Airshow on July 18, 2018.

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Uganda Airlines will use the A330-800 to build its medium and long-haul network, with the aircraft offering cutting-edge technology along with more efficient operations. Upon delivery, the airline hopes to launch operations to Europe, Asia and the Middle East, including flights to London, Dubai, Hong Kong, Guangzhou and other global destinations. Fitted with the new Airspace by Airbus cabin, the A330neo will bring a range of benefits to Uganda Airlines and its customers, offering unrivalled efficiencies combined with the most modern cabin. Launched in July 2014, the A330neo cabin provides the comfort of new airspace amenities, including state-ofthe-art passenger in-flight entertainment and Wi-Fi connectivity systems, amongst others.

ADVISORY CONSULTING OUTSOURCING

+256 772 159 740/ 704 607 167 recruitment@welcometoebc.com www.welcometoebc.com

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NEWS

Adventure

Effective July 2020, Uganda’s gorilla permit cost will increase to $700

Following the overwhelming demand for gorilla permits by tourists and tour operators over the last two years, Uganda Wildlife Authority is set to increase the cost of gorilla trekking from $600 to $700 effective July 1, 2020 (for foreign non-residents). On the other hand, rates for foreign residents of Uganda will increase by $100, from $500 to $600. East Africans will still pay Shs250,000. The gorilla habituation experience will remain at $1,500 for a four-hour stay with a wild gorilla family in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. To book your permit, visit www.ugandawildlife.org

Sports

Federer Vs Nadal: the match in Africa

On February 7, 2020, 20-time Grand Slam Champion Roger Federer plays his first ever match in Sub-Saharan Africa in Cape Town against 18-time Grand Slam Champion and rival Rafael Nadal. The match is in support of children’s education in Africa. The match is the 6th edition of this event, but the first to be played in Africa. The Cape Town Stadium has a seating capacity of more than 50,000 people and is the perfect venue to set a new world record for the highest number of spectators to watch a tennis match. For ticket purchase, visit www.rogerfedererfoundation.com 118 NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019

Offers

Uganda Airlines promotional rates still ongoing

In the spirit of bringing the world to Uganda and taking Uganda to the world, Uganda Airlines is still flying at its promotional rates until the end of November. The airline flies to Nairobi and Juba twice daily and to Mogadishu thrice daily. Flights to Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro are once daily, while Bujumbura and Mombasa are thrice a week. A return journey to Nairobi is still going for $278 (Shs1.022m), Juba at $225 (Shs800,000) and Mogadishu at $590 (Shs2.1m). The rates are inclusive of taxes. On the other hand, a return ticket to Dar es Salaam inclusive of taxes costs $286 (Shs1.05m), Bujumbura $292 (Shs1.073m, Mombasa $325 (Shs1.195m) and Kilimanjaro $311 (Shs1.143m). If you love great services at lovely discounts, don’t hesitate to take advantage of the offer — considering that the promotional cost is slightly lower than that of other airlines. For instance, most airlines still charge between $330 (about Shs1.213m) and $350 (Shs1.287m) for a flight to Nairobi. For more details, visit www.ugandaairlines. com or www.ngaaliinflightmag.com If you prefer to book offline, you can find the airline's booking offices at Entebbe International Airport and on the ground floor of Victoria Towers, along Jinja Road, Kampala.