Twists and turns abound along the trails of this popular sanctuary. By Jonathan Burke
12-13 For the love of walking
Sheriff’s Meadow mobile trails app.
14-15 Featherstone’s 23rd Annual Holiday Gift Show
Tis the season to support the Vineyard arts community. By Abby Remer
16-17 A brief history of Martha’s Vineyard
From Noepe to ‘the Vineyard’ a brief history of the Island. By Nicole Galland
An
Christmas in Edgartown’ a must-see. By Allison Roberts
23-26 Island Maps
Find your way around the Island.
28-29 Amity Island: “Jaws” map
Make a day trip around Amity Island and see locations firsthand. 30-31 A Wampum Belt that Sings
1,599 quahog beads weave a generational Wôpanâak story.
Heath
Woodland
Lising of public gardens,
Quiz yourself on these Island logos. By Nicole Jackson
Morning
A letter from the publisher
Welcome to the Island. With the cool air of autumn arriving and with more and more people coming to gather for Thanksgiving, and even bringing family together for Christmas and New Year’s, Martha’s Vineyard is brimming with things to do this fall and winter.
The hiking trails and bike paths on the Island are vast, and at this time of year they are far less crowded and more beautiful than ever. The fall colors on the leaves provide a splash of orange, yellow and brown across a canvas of sweeping ocean views and the serenity of the harbors.
And as you tour the Island, you will see evidence of our rich farming heritage at many turns in the road, particularly up Island in Chilmark, West Tisbury and Aquinnah. The farmer’s market at the MV Agricultural Hall in West Tisbury winds down this time of year, but remains open for Saturday markets until October 25th and has a few winter markets scheduled, for November 22nd and December 6th and 20th. But even if you miss the farmer’s market, you can take the time to visit any one of our great local farms. And on October 25th, there is the Harvest Festival at the Ag Hall which features the best of the Island.
This is a true milestone year for our most legendary farm, Morning Glory in Edgartown. Three generations of the Athearn family, which you can still see working in the fields or at the farm stand just about every day, are celebrating their 50th anniversary. At Thanksgiving, they also sell naturally raised turkeys from Outpost Farm - but be sure to get your order in well in advance of the holiday. The MVTimes’ Ella Munnelly has written a beautiful piece on the legacy of the family farm, which you can read on page 39.
The fall and winter offer a welcome sense of quiet to explore our beautiful beaches, and a chance to check out our lively music scene, and art galleries. If you are on the gallery tour, be sure not to miss the 50-year
retrospective of the Island’s legendary photographer Alison Shaw at her studio in Oak Bluffs. Or head over to the Featherstone Center for the Arts and see the work their community of artists produce, which you can read about in these pages.
And seek out the great restaurants in every corner of the Island that remain open into the fall and winter. You can still buy fresh seafood on the docks in Menemsha at Larsen’s Fish Market, or at The Net Result in Vineyard Haven. Some restaurants are staying open later into the fall and winter, but be sure to check online for hours and menus carefully as schedules fluctuate.
We hope that our Island’s many fall and winter offerings might provide a shoulder-season respite from all the stresses and challenges of the times we live in, and we hope this free magazine can serve as a guide to a great visit here on Martha’s Vineyard.
If you end up in Vineyard Haven on Beach Road, where our newsroom is located, please stop in from 10 am to 2 pm Monday thru Thursday, and pick up a copy of the weekly print edition of the Martha’s Vineyard Times, or pick up our Arts & Ideas magazine, or pick up one of our publications in the many locations around the island. And please be sure to follow us online at www.mvtimes.com to stay up to date.
We are proud to share that we were just named the weekly Newspaper of the Year by the New England Newspaper and Press Association, and while we focus on the year-round population, we’d love to hear your thoughts on how we can best serve visitors as well. We hope you will consider subscribing for delivery of our weekly print edition, and becoming a member of the MVTimes community, which has always been guided by its founding slogan: Real News for Real Islanders. So if you consider yourself a “Real Islander,” or you aspire to be one, be sure to subscribe online and become a member.
Enjoy your stay and wishing you happy holidays,
Charles M. Sennott Publisher
Don’ t Mi ss Barnraisers Ball
AUTHOR EVENTS AND BOOKSTORES
Bunch of Grapes Bookstore
Author talks and signings, books, gifts, toys, and more. 23 Main St., Vineyard Haven, 508-693-2291, bunchofgrapes.indielite.org.
Edgartown Books
Author talks and signings, art supplies, books, gifts, toys, and more. 44 Main St., Edgartown, 508-627-8463, https://www. edgartownbooks.com.
COMMUNITY EVENTS
West Tisbury Farmers Market: End of the season
West Tisbury Farmers Market was founded in 1934 by Island farmers in response to the Depression. Revived in 1974 by a group of hippies, Yankees, and retired English teachers, it is the Island’s oldest, largest, and finest open-air market. Oct. 25, 9 am to noon. 35 Panhandle Road, West Tisbury. www.wtfmarket.org/.
Halloween in Oak Bluffs
This “spooktacular day” includes trick-or-treating on Circuit Ave., a costume parade and contest for all ages, mini-pumpkin decorating, a pumpkin and scarecrow display, and an open house at
Enchanted Chocolates. Saturday, Oct. 25, Oak Bluffs. Check for updated information at obamv. com/halloween-in-oakbluffs.
Misty Meadows Ponies and Pumpkins
Games, face painting, pumpkin decorating, “Meet a Misty Horse,” bake sale, popcorn and cider, and more. Saturday, Oct. 26, 10 am to 12 pm. 55 Misty Meadows Lane, West Tisbury, mistymeadowsmv.org.
Happy Haunting Edgartown
Edgartown’s Happy Haunting is a whole lot of fun mixed in with opportunities for the kids to go trick-or-treating from business to business. Rain or shine, Sunday, Oct. 27, www.visitedgartown.org.
Howl-a-ween Bark and Boo Bash
Don’t miss Vineyard Haven’s H alloween celebration. Festivities include a parade and joyful Dog Costume Contest: Dress up your pups in their scariest, funniest, or most creative costumes, and they could win a prize! “Pet Photo Stop and Repeat”: Show off your Halloween spirit in a themed photo display. Marilyn Roos Photography will be in the house. Enjoy trick-or-treating with treats for both dogs and
pottery, crafts, jewelry, knitwear, clothing, accessories, ornaments, cards, calendars, and stocking stuffers. Nov. 12 through Dec. 17, 12 to 4 pm. Closed Thanksgiving. 30 Featherstone Lane, Oak Bluffs. featherstoneart.org/ holidaygiftshow.
Felix Neck Fall Festival
Felix Neck’s 45th annual Fall Festival includes fun activities, food, music, and more. Friday, Nov. 28, 10 am to 2 pm. 100 Felix Neck Drive, Edgartown, massaudubon.org.
Vineyard Artisan Fall Sale
their humans. A portion of the proceeds will benefit the Martha’s Vineyard Animal Shelter. Friday, Oct. 31, 12 to 5 pm. Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce, 24 Beach St., Vineyard Haven, mvy.com/bark-boo.
Barnraisers Ball
Dance the night away and commemorate the 1994 construction of the Vineyard Agricultural Society’s barn by over 300 community members. This is a BYOB event with a dessert potluck and music by Johnny Hoy and the Bluefish. Open to all ages. Suggested donation $10. Saturday, Nov. 8, 7 to 10 pm. Agricultural Hall, 35 Panhandle Road, West Tisbury, marthasvineyardagriculturalsociety.org.
“The Best Parade”
Dance up Circuit Avenue with the Upis Land Band in this swinging and much loved community parade, Saturday, Nov. 1. Meet outside the Strand Theater in Oak Bluffs; parade starts at 7.
Featherstone Holiday show
Celebrate the holiday season and support Island artists and Featherstone Center for the Arts. The perfect holiday shopping destination with gifts for everyone: paintings, photography,
The largest holiday art show and sale by Island artisans features a variety of holiday gifts such as one-of-a-kind handmade sweaters, handmade soaps, Island lavender, leather and vintage-material bags, butcher-block cutting boards, and much more. Great food, too! Nov. 28 and 29, 10 am to 4 pm each day. Agricultural Hall, 35 Panhandle Road, West Tisbury, vineyardartisans.com.
Light up Oak Bluffs
Join the Oak Bluffs community as they celebrate the start of the Christmas season. Saturday, Nov. 29. Check for updated information at: obamv.com/annual-events.
First Friday
A free community-inspired outdoor event celebrating local arts and crafts, food, and live music. Friday, Dec. 5, in Vineyard Haven. Visit hwww.firstfridayvh.com.
Vineyard Haven
“’Tis the Season”
“’Tis the Season in Tisbury” is a festive celebration in the charming town of Vineyard Haven. This event invites locals and visitors alike to revel in the holiday spirit with a variety of family-friendly activities. Dec. 5–7. Visit mvy. com/very-vineyard-holiday.
Chicken Alley Thrift Shop
Chicken Alley is a beloved thrift store on the Island, and one of the largest streams of ongoing financial support for Martha’s Vineyard Community Services. Items include clothes, jewelry, housewares, collectables, furniture, toys, and more. 38 Lagoon Pond Road, Vineyard Haven, chickenalley.org.
Frankie’s Revival
Frankie’s Revival is a thrift store with a twist. Inventory is a mixture of new items with tags, upcycled hand embroidery and painted pieces, and clothing that people donate. 79 Beach Road, Suite 9, Vineyard Haven, instagram.com/frankies.revival.
Island Folk Pottery and Sculpture Trail
Walk along a quarter-mile enchanting trail through the woods and discover whimsical sculptures on the way to the Island Folk Pottery shop. Created by artists Bill O’Callaghan and Heather Goff, the path is open daily from 9 am to dusk. Their pottery studio is open on Monday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, 11 am to 5 pm, and on Sundays, 2 to 5 pm. 16 Marion’s Way, Chilmark, islandfolkpottery.com.
Martha’s Vineyard Garden Club
Christmas in Edgartown
Christmas in Edgartown is traditionally one of New England’s most charming holiday weekend festivals. For over four decades, the Edgartown Board of Trade has showcased the winter magic that can be found in everyone’s favorite summertime town. Dec. 11–14. christmasinedgartown.com.
18th Vineyard Artisan Annual Holiday Show
You won’t want to miss the last sale of the year. Many handmade holiday gifts are available. Saturday and Sunday, D ec. 20 and 21, 10 am to 4 pm. Dr. Daniel Fisher House, 99 Main St., Edgartown, vineyardartisans.com.
THRIFT STORES
ACT TWO Second Hand Store
ACT TWO Second Hand
Store is a nonprofit organization. Their goal is to be a s ustainable and ongoing source of funding for theater, music, and visual performance arts on Martha’s Vineyard. Items include clothing, jewelry, art, furniture, and housewares. 66 Main St., Vineyard Haven, acttwosecondhandstore.org.
EXHIBITS & GARDENS
Aquinnah Cultural Center
Learn the history of the Aquinnah Wampanoag through the contents of their museum, the voices of the Wampanoag community, and cultural events for both tribal members and the general public. 35 Aquinnah Circle, Aquinnah, www.aquinnah.org.
Featherstone Center for the Arts
Spark your creativity at the beautiful Featherstone campus, which offers a variety of classes and workshops in ceramics, drawing, fiber arts, jewelry making, literary arts, mixed media, painting, and printmaking. There are also inspirational art exhibits. 30 Featherstone Lane, Oak Bluffs, featherstoneart.org.
Enjoy programs and activities that cover a wide range of gardening topics and offer hands-on experience. The M.V. Garden Club provides an opportunity to meet other people with similar interests, to learn and share together, and to have fun. West Tisbury. For the latest events and workshops, visit marthasvineyardgardenclub.org.
Martha’s Vineyard Museum
Explore the history, art, and culture of the Island at the expansive M .V. Museum, which includes a welcome center, gift shop, café, and community events. 151 Lagoon Pond Road, Vineyard Haven, mvmuseum.org.
Polly Hill Arboretum
Discover unique trees, cones, berries, and blooms by taking a stroll through the beautiful historic grounds at Polly Hill Arboretum. Guided tours, scavenger hunts, and other activities are often available. 809 State St., West Tisbury, pollyhillarboretum.org.
Martha’s Vineyard Museum
DENA PORTER
Trustees’ Mytoi Japanese-style Garden
Trustees’ Mytoi Japanese-style Garden
Take a mindful stroll along winding footpaths that are nestled among a uniquely designed, secluded garden with a tranquil pond. It includes pine and birch trees, flowering bushes, a bridge, benches, and a rustic shelter for quiet contemplation. Chappaquiddick. To plan your visit, check thetrustees.org/place/mytoi.
FARM ACTIVITIES
Island Alpaca
Spend some time with adorable and gentle alpacas and learn more about these curious creatures, including where they come f rom, their interesting behaviors, and why they are important. Find out what this unique farm has to offer, such as fun classes, events, and a gift shop. 1 Head of the Pond Road, Oak Bluffs, islandalpaca.com.
Martha’s Vineyard Agricultural Society
Discover all kinds of workshops, classes, and events related to gardening, farming, and homesteading. Most of them are held at the Agricultural Hall, but also at other sites around the Vineyard. 35 Panhandle Road, West Tisbury, marthasvineyardagriculturalsociety.org.
Edgartown Cinema
Neighborhood cinema where the seats are comfortable and the popcorn is fresh. Movies, plus birthday parties and group rentals. 65 Main St., #8234, Edgartown. Check out their movie listings at yourneighborhoodtheatre.com.
Martha’s Vineyard Film Center
and listen to great music. Performers on any given night may include Kate Taylor, the Dock Street Band, Isaac Taylor, Tristan Israel, Willy Mason, Sarah Shaw Dawson, and many more. Chilmark Community Center, 520 South Road, Chilmark. Visit the MV Times events page for dates: www.mvtimes.com/things-to-do.
Slough Farm
Slough Farm is a nonprofit educational farm and gathering place, named for Slough Cove of the Edgartown Great Pond. It supports small-scale sustainable farming and the arts through place-based educational programming. 15 Butler’s Cove Road, Edgartown. Visit its website for classes and events: sloughfarm.org.
Trustees’ FARM Institute
Find activities for the whole family at the Trustees of Reservations’ 162-acre working farm in Katama, which has cows, goats, chickens, sheep, and other animals, plus a vegetable garden, pastures, a farm store, and a commercial kitchen. Programs include fun and educational cooking classes. 14 Aero Ave., Edgartown. thetrustees.org/tfi.
FILMS & THEATER
Circuit Arts, West Tisbury and Oak Bluffs
Experience a vibrant mix of arts programming at the Grange Hall in West Tisbury and venues across the Island. Circuit Arts presents pay-whatyou-can film screenings, live theater, dance, comedy, and more. Tickets and event details are available at circuitarts.org.
Immerse yourself in critically acclaimed movies and other events from the M.V. Film Society. The lineup includes feature f ilms, documentaries, comedy shows, live music, Exhibition on Screen, Met Opera Live, National Theatre Live, and more. 79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven, mvfilmsociety.com.
Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse
Enjoy stage plays, live music, poetry, art exhibits, musicals, and much more at the Island’s only professional year-round theater. 24 Church St., Vineyard Haven, mvplayhouse.org.
TBD Improv, Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and West Tisbury
Experience a highly interactive, hilarious show in which the audience gives suggestions to Island-based performers, who create scenes right on the spot. The TBD Improv group performs at venues around the Island about once a month. tbdimprov.com.
MUSIC EVENTS & CONCERTS
Black Dog
The Black Dog Bakery Cafe on State Road hosts live music every Saturday from 6 to 8 pm. 509 State Road, Vineyard Haven. The Black Dog Tavern on the harbor has live music on Friday nights. 20 Beach St. Extension, Vineyard Haven. https://theblackdog.com.
Chilmark Potluck Jams
Chilmark Potluck Jams have been a popular off-season event for years. Bring a dish to share, enjoy one another’s company,
Offshore Ale Company
Offshore Ale is the Island’s first and only brewpub, hosting a variety of events throughout the year. Enjoy great food, craft beer, and weekly live music in the quieter months. 30 Kennebec Ave., Oak Bluffs, www. offshoreale.com.
Pathways ARTS
Pathways ARTS is all about creating and catalyzing creative projects in visual arts, writing, dance, music, and other collaborative art forms. 9 State Road, Chilmark, pathwaysmv.org.
Portuguese American Club
The P.A. Club is a welcoming gathering place, offering a warm and friendly atmosphere. Pool, live music, and good food from Mo’s Lunch. Catch the band Blue Yonder every Monday yearround, 7 to 9 pm. 137 Vineyard Ave., Oak Bluffs, paclubmv.org.
SABRINA BUEHLER
The Ritz
The Ritz is a historic bar and music venue in Oak Bluffs. Enjoy good food and a great lineup of musicians year-round, as well as DJ dancing after 10 pm. 4 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs, theritzmv.com/shows.
Sweet Life Cafe
Catch Jeremy Berlin on the piano every Thursday night from 6:30 pm to 9 pm. 63 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs, www.sweetlifemv.com.
S&S Kitchenette
S&S Kitchenette is a catering, in-house dining, and event cafe. Catch live music every Saturday night. Dinner Thursday through Saturday, and Sunday brunch, Oct. 23 through Dec. 24. 48 Main St., Vineyard Haven, www. sskitchenette.com.
West Tisbury library
Second Sunday jazz runs October through April: free
jazz concert Sundays 2:30 to 3:30 pm. 1042 State Rd, West Tisbury, westtisburylibrary.org/ publiclibrary.
Woodstove Studios
Woodstove Studios is a recording studio and live show venue serving both musicians and music lovers of Martha’s Vineyard. West Tisbury. For more information, visit woodstovestudios.com.
RECREATION
Island trails, ponds, and beaches, sunrise to sunset
Beaches & trails
Hike on woodland trails, bike on paved paths, kayak across ponds, walk on the beaches, and enjoy other recreational activities on the protected properties maintained by the Martha’s V ineyard Land Bank, Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation, Trustees
of Reservations, Mass Audubon, the Nature Conservancy, a nd the State of Massachusetts. To view an Island-wide map, visit bit.ly/mvtrails
For more events and activities on Martha’s Vineyard, check the Vineyard Visitor website at vineyardvisitor.com and the event calendar at mvtimes.com/ things-to-do.
The Warrior Society Series bySharisse
Book Bundle
Dear Fellow Warrior, is a self-help poetry memoir featuring reflection prompts for self-discovery and soul expansion. The Companion Journal is waiting for your reflections - bundle it with the book or start your journey with the journal alone.
NICOLE JACKSON
[ ON MY WAY ]
Hiking Cedar Tree Neck
Twists and turns abound along the trails of this popular sanctuary.
BY JONATHAN BURKE
Are you looking for a mellow hike of a few hours in a terrain as varied as the Island? If so, the 400 acres of the Cedar Tree Neck Sanctuary, located in rural West Tisbury, may be your best choice.
In this storied Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation property, you may be hiking the slope of a moraine, circuiting a bluff with a pond on one
side and Vineyard Sound on the other, walking a stretch of beach, and crossing numerous wetlands in the woods.
I have been hiking Cedar Tree for more than 15 years. I started with my family when my kids were young. We would walk to the beach and back, and climb trees along the way. Later, on Sunday walks with my mother, I discovered the true extent of this
8-year-old terrier-mix pup, Becham, from the Taylor Gate Trailhead at 8:30 am. (This is when the property opens. Most SMF properties open at dawn.)
On the orange trail, we dropped right away into the forest.
We went downward over the slope of a moraine. (I believe I have this geologic feature right.
A hill, basically.) The top of the trail was strewn with big rocks. I was full of enthusiasm. The fall morning was cool, with a nice chill in the air.
property — the Obed Daggett Trail atop a bluff, the white trail at the far end of the beach, the blue and orange branch trail, the many rock walls and creeks.
I heard the news over the past years as the property increased in size and added new trail heads. With some excitement, I have returned to explore.
On a Sunday morning a few weeks ago, I set out with my
I stepped over carpets of tangled and knotted roots. An understory of green grew from the ground among the trees. A Labradoodle attacked without warning from behind to say hi, and then just as quickly disappeared.
The trail was in no hurry. Occasional swells and gullies had us hiking upward a spell. The path, covered in dirt and leaves, always hid the next bend of trail. We climbed wooden stepladders that straddle stone walls like
The orange trail.
Canopy of crooked and bent trees.
I stepped over carpets of tangled and knotted roots. An understory of green grew from the ground among the trees. A labradoodle attacked without warning from behind to say hi, and then just as quickly disappeared.
sawhorses. We crossed wood-slat bridges over wetlands.
Near the bottom of the orange trail, we turned into the main body of the sanctuary on the orange blue trail. The terrain leveled s we went crosswise on the slope. A tree limb sticking straight across the trail defied gravity. A series of connecting trails brought us to the Daggett Trailhead, which used to be the sole entry.
We went on the red trail. The leaves in the trees rustled in the gusts of wind. The treetops swayed. We began downward. We crossed a small creek. The trail turned and opened to sand dunes in the back of the beach.
I trudged through the heavy sand. The path climbed up and over the dune. I was struck by an empty sea. Only the wind and the waves were on the water.
Clouds covered the sky. The Elizabeth Islands were across the way. Summer seemed a distant memory. We made our way up the beach into the northerly breeze.
The beach mostly ends where a bluff reaches the shore. The Obed Daggett Trail picks up here. I turned up the trail. As I came up, I saw Daggett Pond nestled behind the beach.
A magical canopy of bent and crooked trees was over the trail on the inland side of the bluff. The pond was below. As we looped around, the trees disappeared. The seaward side of the bluff was more bare and windblown. Vineyard Sound was harsh and lonely below. We made a full circle. A pair of swans floated in the pond.
Becham and I walked back in the other direction on the beach. I plodded and looked for the wetter and firmer sand. He trotted. We continued past our ingress. The salty, sea-moist wind was soothing on my back. I sorted through some complications.
At a promontory of sorts, the beach loses its sand. I navigated over tumbled rocks. The waves broke on the shore. I heard the crash of water. The smaller rocks rattled against one an-
other in the wash. A short way a head, we spotted the white trail. A lost lobster trap was ashore next to the marker. The trail leads back up into the bluff.
After a brief and more arduous climb than I would h ave liked, we reached the Bill Bridwell Trail. I turned us to the traverse. The water is always off the side of this trail, t hrough the trees or over their tops. The trail dips, turns, and climbs. I never lose interest on the Bridwell Trail.
We came out onto the Bruce Irons Trail. A wonderful small, unexpected pond is off this trail, if you know which way to go. Unfortunately, I missed it this time. We picked up the purple trail. The green trail would take us back up the moraine. I turned onto it with some misgiving. There was more to see. We left the main body of the sanctuary behind.
Becham tensed on his leash. Possibly a coyote was out there. I readied the large stone I carry in my hand. Hopefully a hard throw would have some effect. Fortunately, I did not have to find out. Most likely a deer.
These last few miles were my favorite of the hike, if only because my mind had loosed all weighing on it. I was now just enjoying every step of the trail. I caught glimpses of sky through the trees. The terrain was similar to that of the start. The shape of the land was the same, with swells and gullies, bends and turns. Tangles of knotted roots matted the trail. As I made my way upward, I expected we would come to a rock-strewn section like the one on the way down. Instead, near the top, I was treated to a field of erratic boulders. There were five or six of the big fellows. For some reason, a glacier deposited them here.
Not far ahead was the Irvin Trailhead and the egress from the sanctuary. It was about a halfmile on Indian Hill Road back to Taylor Gate. Becham and I could not help some swagger in our walk.
The Obed Daggett trail marker is in the upper far right.
PHOTOS: JONATHAN BURKE
Wood slat bridge.
wal ki ng love For the of
BY LUCAS THORS
Hikers make their way through Land Bank trails.
Sepiessa Point Reservation James Pond
Fulling Mill Brook Preserve in Chilmark.
Sheriff’s Meadow mobile trails app.
The Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation’s free mobile app, TrailsMV, is an interactive guide to 220-plus miles of public trails on more than 100 protected properties. Officials with Sheriff’s Meadow (SMF) say the TrailsMV app helps residents and visitors discover new places to connect with nature across the Island.
“TrailsMV helps give people the confidence to navigate the Island’s growing network of trails safely, because they can see where they are along the way,” said SMF president Adam Moore.
“By keeping the trails map upto-date and accurate in real time, it’s like having a knowledgeable hiking companion as a guide. It opens a new realm of opportunities for people who love the Vineyard’s undeveloped, natural
places.” The app works without cell service or wifi, relying on sophisticated satellite technology.
T he TrailsMV is a multiphase project in collaboration w ith the Island’s conservation groups andthe Martha’s Vineyard Commission.
TrailsMV’s features include filters to sort properties according to use (and restrictions), such as dogs, hunting, accessibility, horses, family-friendly, bikes, and scenic views. The app also provides trail-segment lengths to better gauge distance; it provides a guide with basic instructions on how to use the app, with Spanish and Portuguese translations; and the app will provide a resources section with safety tips and helpful links.
The updated app is available free in the App Store and Google Play Store.
Packard Preserve on Chappaquiddick.
Tea Land Farm.
more than
a month.
’Tis the season to support the Vineyard arts community.
BY ABBY REMER
Featherstone’s
23rd Annual Holiday Gift Show
The work of
100 Islander artists and artisans fill the Francine Kelly Gallery in a festival display for over
Nothing rings in the holiday season quite like Featherstone Center for the Arts’ Holiday Gift Show, opening on Nov. 12. Now in its 23rd year, the gift show will feature over 100 Island artists and artisans filling the Francine Kelly Gallery with their fabulous creations, through Dec. 17.
Walking into what feels like Santa’s workshop is sure to delight. Hundreds of beautiful and affordable handmade creations fill the rows of tables, and paintings and photographs adorn the walls. You will discover a wide range of alluring crafts, jewelry, knitwear, holiday cards, calendars, mobiles, glassware, clothing, purses, accessories, soaps, and even dog treats. Particularly popular are ornaments. Executive director Ann Smith adds, “We also have a lot of ceramic artists. Their works in-
clude soap dishes, mugs, bowls, casserole dishes, candleholders, and platters.”
She continues, “The Francine Kelly Gallery is transformed into a festive marketplace of beautiful and unique gifts that truly embody the holiday spirit. Our visitors are always blown away by the number of participating artists and the vast selection of Island-made treasures!”
The show is also a fundraiser for Featherstone, with a 50–50 split between the artists and Featherstone, compared to the typical commission during the gallery season, where 60 percent goes to the artists and 40 percent to Featherstone. The gift show is a common tradition at many art centers, supporting local artists. It is simply another way that Featherstone meets its mission, which is to engage, enrich, and connect the Vineyard community through the power of art and creativity.
Speaking about its history, Smith says, “The Holiday Gift Show more than doubled in participating artists and in revenue when we moved to the Francine Kelly Gallery in the Art Barn in 2017. Both have continued to grow each and every year since. It’s wonderful that so many wish to support local a rtists and Featherstone, especially during the holiday season.”
The Holiday Gift Show is a joyous affair, offering us a feel-good opportunity to buy local and support Vineyard creators, all while supporting Featherstone as well. A win-win for everyone.
The Holiday Gift Show at Featherstone Center for the Arts runs from Nov. 12 through Dec. 17 (closed Thanksgiving Day). Open daily from 12 to 4 pm.
PHOTOS: DENA PORTER
The work of Island artists and artisans at Featherstone Center for the Arts.
There’s a lot of history packed into this little island, going all the way back to before it was even an island. Martha’s Vineyard, and its sister island, Nantucket (which is really mostly a sandbar), were formed from glacial moraine –– i.e., the rubble left behind by a melting glacier. Or so say geologists. The Wampanoag, who were here much earlier, say that it was formed by the legendary Moshup walking across what became Vineyard Sound –– water filled the depression of his moccasins, rendering an island, called Noepe, which is translatable to “the island amidst the water.”
Things were relatively quiet for thousands of years, and then, during the most momentous field trip since the Roman Empire, Europeans discovered America. In 1602, a fellow named Bartholomew Gosnold (possibly a friend of William Shakespeare’s) landed on the Island. Legend says he found wild grapes growing here, and back in England he had a baby daughter and a mother-inlaw named Martha, so he named it after one of them. (Since the elder Martha helped to bankroll the expedition, my money’s on her.) He claimed the Island for England and went home again.
A generation later, white colonizers had followed his path and were here to stay. Possibly first among these was Thomas Mayhew, from Tisbury, England, by way of Watertown, Mass. Some time around 1671, he got himself appointed “Governor for Life” by the governor of New York, who
also named the Vineyard and some small surrounding islands “the County of Dukes County” to get in good with the Duke of York (and the Redundancy Department of Redundancy).
Mayhew’s son Thomas purportedly converted some Wampanoags to Christianity largely by doing “good works.” Thomas Jr. died young, his ship lost at sea, but Thomas Jr.’s son, grandson, and great-grandson continued his quest to convert the Wampanoag. Perhaps (in part) as a result of this, Martha’s Vineyard has a reputation as the only place in Colonial A merica that suffered no actual physical violence between Indigenous and settler populations, even during King Philip’s War. This does not imply a utopian coexistence, however. The distinction between the threat of force and the use of force is small consolation to the person being robbed, and the Wampanoag ended up dispossessed of their land.
While there were a few shenanigans in the early years (particularly involving the spirited Athearn family), things proceeded calmly enough all the way to the American Revolution. The Vineyard resented being plundered mercilessly by British warships, and boasted multiple examples of overt resistance early on. Most celebrated:
Three young girls famously blew up a local flagpole that the British were planning to use as a sailing mast; their deed was commemorated in a huge white “Liberty Pole” on Main Street, Vineyard Haven, in front of what is now the Sail M.V. building. (Sadly, Eversource decapitated the pole a cou-
ple of years ago, claiming it was endangering the power lines.)
Otherwise, however, the Vineyard continued generally unscathed by the war, although the white people continued their inexorable pushing-the-Wampanoag-off-their-land until, by 1720, the only major pieces of the Island still in Native hands were Aquinnah and Chappaquidick.
Most racially European Islanders were either farmers or fishermen, but the whaling industry was evolving, and soon Edgartown would be bursting with wealth and attitude. The stately white Federalist-style whaling captain’s houses were built starting in the early 1820s. Among the Vineyard’s famous whalers was Tashtego, a character in Melville’s classic “Moby Dick.” Most of our other famous whalers are nonfictional.
The 19th century was also notable for many other things, of
which four will get a nod here: First was the economic boom in the first half of the century. Holmes Hole (now Vineyard Haven), which rivaled whaling-centric Edgartown as a deep, safe harbor, became an important stopover point for coastal and transatlantic ship traffic. Ships from all over the world called at both harbors to rest, resupply, make repairs, and (if they were making their first American landfall) clear customs. Whaling, fishing, and merchant vessels often picked crew members from the Azores and Cape Verde Islands, and so gradually, the “white” stock of the settlers developed a little variation, along with still-common Island names like Silva and Medeiros. West Tisbury and Chilmark prospered agriculturally, and developed small-scale factories that processed Vineyard wool into cloth and Vineyard clay into bricks and paint pigments.
A brief history of Martha’s Vineyard
From Noepe to ‘the Vineyard’: A brief history of the Island. BY
NICOLE GALLAND
PHOTO COURTESY OF CHRIS BAER
The second development of note was the doubling of Island townships from three to six in a period of just over 20 years. In 1870, Gay Head went from being a Wampanoag reservation to an incorporated township of the Commonwealth (meaning residents gained voting rights but lost tribal sovereignty in the last place on the Island they’d still enjoyed it); in 1880, the residents of Oak Bluffs, fed up with providing much of Edgartown’s tax revenue while getting almost no services, convinced the state legislature to let them separate; and in 1892, West Tisbury and Tisbury, having been functionally estranged for a hundred years but living together for the sake of the kids, finally made it official and became two separate towns.
The third notable was a high rate of hereditary deafness among the English settlers. Up-Island, particularly in Chilmark, the deaf community was fully integrated into the hearing community because everyone knew sign language, whether or not there were deaf members in their households.
The fourth notable of the Victorian Era was the robustness of the Methodist revival meetings. While there are precious few Methodists left on the Vineyard, relatively speaking, their summer revival meetings, starting in the
1830s, created the most colorful (literally and figuratively) town on the Island: Cottage City, now Oak Bluffs. They would come in the summer from off-Island by steamer and stay in tents, which were erected seasonally on permanent platforms. Over time, the Methodists grew well-heeled enough to indulge in building little cottages on these platforms, of a color and style one hardly associates with the word “Methodist.”
Then somebody –– and we’re not pointing fingers –– invented the concept of summer vacations, and then somebody else noticed what a great place the Vineyard would be for just that kind of excursion. Actually, we have to blame the Methodists for this one. Their enthusiasm for the Vineyard got post–Civil War developers thinking that non-Methodists might enjoy summer on the Vineyard, too. They were right!
summer for various recreational activities including socializing, swimming, and yoga.
For much of the 20th century, the Vineyard was content to fish, farm, and poke fun at the summer people behind their backs. Then a couple of big things changed the vibe. First, Ted Kennedy drove off a bridge. We’re really tired of talking about that, though, so let’s just move on to the next big event: “Jaws.” We never get tired of talking about “Jaws.” Actually, after a summer dominated by the movie’s endless 50th anniversary celebrations, we’re tired of talking about that, too.
“Jaws” gave Vineyarders a sense of our place on the map. Literally. That may be why, in 1977, when Massachusetts announced a “redistricting plan” that would change the political map to the detriment of Island interests, there was born a lively movement to se-
Then somebody — and we’re not pointing fingers — invented the concept of summer vacations, and then somebody else noticed what a great place the Vineyard would be for just that kind of excursion.
As a result, Oak Bluffs developed a reputation, which it holds to this day, as the town in which it is easiest to obtain liquor and other secular entertainments.
Those post–Civil War visitors were the ones photographed frolicking in the waves along the shore. White frolickers favored the area called “Pay Beach,” with its bathhouses and other amenities; by the early 1900s, affluent African Americans began buying summer homes in Oak Bluffs and formed the beginning of a summer colony that persists to this day. They gathered at the beach farther to the south, which became known as the “Inkwell.” From that segregated beginning grew a sense of pride and ownership. The Polar Bears were (and still are!) a group who gathers at the Inkwell each morning all
gan to build hotels and businesses. Painters and writers had taken a fancy to the Vineyard’s scenic quietude decades earlier, and it was already a well-established mecca for creative types, so it was unsurprising when Hollywood’s elite discovered it. Clinton’s deciding to vacation here definitely did not hurt the real-estate market, and Obama’s continuing that practice kept us in the news.
Different towns were affected in different ways by the real-estate boom. Chilmark, for example, already had three-acre zoning, so the possibility of overdevelopment was pretty much nonexistent. On the other hand, in West Tisbury –– a town inhabited by white people for 300 years –– the number of extant dwellings doubled between 1980 and 2000.
cede from (a) the Commonwealth of Massachusetts and/or (b) the U.S. A flag was created, an anthem composed, and proposed passport designs were available in shops. Walter Cronkite (a beloved summer resident) even mentioned it on the evening news. It was very exciting. Then we got distracted by “Jaws 2,” and sort of forgot about seceding.
In 1987, the Wampanoag were federally recognized as a sovereign tribe, and 10 years later, G ay Head was renamed –– or rather, was restored to its original name –– Aquinnah.
Within a decade of “Jaws” coming out, the rest of the world wanted a piece of Martha’s Vineyard, and suddenly the price of real estate skyrocketed. Wealthy people began to buy summerhouses all over the island; investors be-
Here’s a fun fact that will win you points at cocktail parties: Dukes County (i.e., Martha’s Vineyard) was the poorest county in Massachusetts in 1980, and today remains among the poorer counties. The summer folk with their sumptuous homes bring a lot of money to the Island while their homes are being built, and the vibrant tourist industry keeps money coming in for a good four or five months of the year, but the rest of the time, this is a largely blue-collar community. What makes it special and endearing is that so many of the “regular Joes and Jills” who struggle to make ends meet through the winter are here by choice, because they are drawn to the same things that the celebrities are drawn to, that the w riters and painters of the past hundred years have been drawn to. They are willing to do whatever they need to do to remain here, taking whatever work they can, including writing up summary histories of their beloved homeland for a local newspaper’s “Vineyard Visitor” magazine.
Thank you for Bow Van Riper at the M.V. Museum, Beverly Wright, and Elaine Weintraub for contibuting to this article.
The Metropolitan.
galleries, museums, & public gardens
galleries, museums, & public gardens
From the Arts District in Oak Bluffs to the walking trails at Island Folk Pottery, to the Tom Maley sculptures at Field Gallery, there are plenty of public gardens, galleries, and museums to explore. If you haven’t taken a trip to the Mytoi Japanese-style garden on Chappaquiddick, it is
Y = Year-round
S = Seasonal
EDGARTOWN
S A Gallery
41 Main Street, Edgartown, 917-378-0662; agallerymv.com.
Y The Christina Gallery 5 Winter St., 508-627-8794; christina.com.
Y Edgartown Art Gallery 27 South Summer St., 508-627-5991; edgartownartgallery.com.
Y Eisenhauer Gallery 38 North Water St., 508-627-7003; eisenhauergallery.com.
S Mikel Hunter 11 Winter St., Nevin Square; mikelhunter.com.
Y Mytoi Japanese-Style Garden 41 Dike Rd., Chappaquiddick, 508-627-7689; thetrustees.org/place/mytoi.
Y North Water Gallery 27 North Water St., 508-627-6002; northwatergallery.com.
S Old Sculpin Gallery 58 Dock St., 508-627-4881; oldsculpingallery.org.
OAK BLUFFS
S Alison Shaw Gallery 88 Dukes County Ave., 508-696-7429; alisonshaw.com.
S Center of Knowhere 73 Circuit Ave., 917-960-9344; knowhereart.com
S Cousen Rose Gallery 71 Circuit Ave., 508-693-6656; cousenrose.com.
S Crossroads Gallery 93 Dukes County Ave., 617-448-3934; blanchardphotomv.com.
S Galaxy Gallery Remote Only, 508-693-5444; galaxygallery.org.
Y Featherstone Center for the Arts 30 Featherstone Ln., off Barnes Road, 508-693-1850; featherstoneart.org.
S Knowhere Art Gallery 91 Dukes County Ave., 917-960-9344; knowhereart.com.
Y Mariposa Museum & World Cultural Center 57 Circuit Ave., 603-400-5440; mariposamuseum.org.
S Harry Seymour Studio 66 Pond View Dr., 413-531-1084; hseymour.artspan.com.
Y Washington Ledesma Studio 5 Murrant Ave., 508-693-1823; washingtonledesmamv.com.
VINEYARD HAVEN
S 51art gallery 13 Beach Road Ext., 212-585-4499; theshoppewiththereddoor.com.
S Althea Designs [1]Print 34 Beach Rd., 807-777-5137; altheadesigns.com.
Y Amy Cash Gallery 30 Main St., 508-338-7951; amycashgallery.com.
worth the trip. Walking through the galleries in downtown Edgartown and Vineyard Haven are other options. Here are a few of our favorite places.
Y Blue Fathom Gallery 58 Main St., 508-687-9338.
Y Louisa Gould Gallery 54 Main St., 508-693-7373; louisagould.com.
Y Martha’s Vineyard Museum 151 Lagoon Pond Rd., 508-627-4441; mvmuseum.org.
Y Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse Art Space 24 Church St., 508-696-6300; mvplayhouse.org.
S Michael Johnson’s Photo Studio 34A Main St., 415-238-7572; michaeljimage.com.
S Night Heron Gallery 58 Main St., 508-696-9500; nightherongallery.com.
S Workshop Gallery 32 Beach Rd., 774-353-6414; facebook.com/theworkshopmv.
UP-ISLAND
S Allen Whiting-Davis House Gallery 985 State Rd., West Tisbury, 508-693-4691; allenwhiting.com.
42 Old South Rd., Aquinnah, 508-645-9954; seashelljewel.com.
S Kara Taylor Gallery
24 South Rd., Chilmark. 508-332-8171; karataylorart.com.
S Marie-Louise Rouff Gallery
150 Field View Ln., West Tisbury, 508-693-2072; mlrouff.com.
Y Martha’s Vineyard Glassworks
683 State Rd., West Tisbury, 508-693-6026; mvglassworks.com.
Y Merry Farm Pottery
79 Merry Farm Rd., West Tisbury, 774-836-4349; merryfarmpottery.com.
Y Peter Simon Gallery 14 Wisteria Rd., Chilmark, 508-325-2242; petersimon.com.
Y Polly Hill Arboretum 795 State Rd., West Tisbury, 508-693-9426; pollyhillarboretum.org.
Y Ruel Gallery 31 Basin Rd., Chilmark, 508-955-9057; ruelgallery.com.
Y Sargent Gallery 832 State Rd., Aquinnah, 508-645-2776, 508-560-7911; sargentgallery.org.
S Seaweed Art Gallery 2 Mariners Ln., Aquinnah, 508-645-2270; 415-887-8456; seaweedartist.com.
Let us know if we don’t have your favorite Vineyard gallery, museum, or public garden listed here, andwe’ll do our best to add it to the next Vineyard Visitor. Send us a line at vineyardvisitor@mvtimes.com.
How Islander are you?
Quiz yourself on these Island logos and see how you measure up!
things to do
ARCADE GAMES
Flying Horses Carousel
15 Oak Bluffs Ave., Oak Bluffs, 508-693-9481, vineyardtrust.org/property/flying-horses-carousel
The Game Room
19 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs, 508-687-9179, ryanfamily.com
AVIATION
Classic Aviators
Biplane rides at Katama Airfield, Edgartown, 508-627-7677, biplanemv.com
Old County Rd., West Tisbury, 774-563-8197, whippoorwillfarm.com
FIGURE SKATING & HOCKEY
Martha’s Vineyard Ice Arena at YMCA of M.V.
91 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Rd., Oak Bluffs, 508-693-5329, ymcamv.org/mv-ice-arena
HIKING & BIKING
Manuel F. Correllus State Forest
Trails and paved paths in a 5,300-acre forest in the middle of the Island. 508-693-2540
bit.ly/mvforest
Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank
Over 70 properties with hiking or biking trails, ponds for kayaking, and beaches. 508-627-7141, mvlandbank.com
Mass Audubon’s Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary
100 Felix Neck Dr., Edgartown, 508-627-4850, massaudubon.org/felixneck
The Nature Conservancy
Hoft Farm Preserve in West Tisbury and David H. Smith Preserve in Edgartown, nature.org
Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation
Over 20 properties for hiking or biking, plus beaches or water views. 508-693-5207, sheriffsmeadow.org
The Trustees of Reservations
Menemsha Hills, Long Point Wildlife Refuge, FARM Institute, Norton Point Beach, Wasque, Mytoi Garden, and Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge. 508-693-7662, thetrustees.org
HORSEBACK RIDING
Arrowhead Farm
174 Indian Hill Rd., West Tisbury, 508-693-8831, arrowheadfarm.net
Misty Meadows Equine Learning Center
55 Misty Meadows Ln., West Tisbury, 508-338-7198, mistymeadowsmv.org
Pond View Farm
New Lane, West Tisbury, 508-693-2949, facebook.com/pondviewfarmmv
White Stone Equestrian
85 Red Pony Farm Rd., West Tisbury. 774-563-0220, whitestonemv.com
Manuel Correllus State Forest in the center of the Island has trails
Shortest Route to Gay Head
The Vineyard community knows how to celebrate the holidays. We don’t mess around! A must-see is “Christmas in Edgartown” — a magical experience for folks of all ages. M ain Street Edgartown is beautifully decorated with twinkling lights, wreaths, and Christmas trees, and the Vineyard Preservation Trust’s historic buildings add old-world charm to the festivities.
Traditionally one of New England’s most popular holiday weekend festivals, Christmas i n Edgartown starts on Thursday, Dec. 11, and runs through Dec. 14.
Thursday, Dec. 11, from 2 to 7:15 pm, enjoy the first day of horse drawn carriage rides which run each day through Dec. 14.
From 5:30 to 7 pm, at Bad Martha’s Brewery, take a walk or run to kick off Christmas in Edgartown weekend with the Amity Island Running Club. Santa hats and beards will be provided, but feel free to wear any of your own festive wear. There will be a “Most Festive” costume prize awarded. *Reflective gear and headlamps are required!* A $10 donation is suggested. Everyone is welcome.
Holiday festivities
‘Christmas in Edgartown’ is a must-see. BY ALLISON ROBERTS
Friday, Dec. 12, from 5:30 to 6:15 pm, be sure to catch the lighting of the Edgartown Lighthouse. Beginning at 5:30 pm, enjoy Edgartown’s favorite mascots, concessions by the nonprofit Martha’s Vineyard Boys & Girls Club, caroling, giveaways, and maybe the Man in Red himself.
Saturday, Dec. 13, you’ll find a variety of events: 10 am to 3 pm, check out the Holiday Faire on the Edgartown Village Green. The Faire is in the heart of Edgartown’s downtown winter wonderland. Shop one-of-a-kind artisanal goods from over 30 local vendors in this
European-style Christmas market complete with hot cocoa, treats, and entertainment for the whole family.
10 am to 3 pm, take in the festively decorated Daniel Fisher House hosting the annual fundraiser for Hospice & Palliative Care of Martha’s Vineyard, featuring handmade jewelry, knitted items, paintings, photographs, ornaments, baked goods, and more. Other town fa-
vorites include the 32nd A nnual Christmas in Edgartown Art & Crafts Festival. This event features the work of several amazing Island artists and craftspeople. Free parking on site and “Shopper Trolley” to Church Street available 12 to 3 pm.
10 am to 4 pm: At the Carnegie Heritage Center, the reading rooms and atrium will be decked for the season, and the ever-popular Elf on the Shelf hunt returns. Families will be enchanted by the special elves who will appear (and disappear!) around the reading-room shelves. Also, be sure to peek into their reading-room “windows” and shelves for Dickens Village scenes — “A Victorian Christmas” in miniature.
11 to 11:45 am on Main Street: Don’t miss Christmas in Edgartown Parade. Floats, animals, music, dancers, kids, fire engines, and of course the big red man himself. The parade will take place between Pease’s Point Way and Water St., rain or shine.
12 noon until 3 pm, check out Candy Cane Lane in Nevin Square. Halfway up Winter Street, you will find a square full of fun with kids in mind.
Sunday, Dec. 14, from 10 am to 2 pm, shop the 32nd Annual Christmas in Edgartown Art & Crafts Fe stival at the Edgartown school. This holiday event features the work of some of our a mazing Island artists and craftspeople. Free parking on site.
For more information and updated events, visit: vineyardtrust.org, visitedgartown.org/events, and facebook.com/VisitEdgartown/events.
Passenger only, service between Hyannis and Oak Bluffs and Nantucket through October.
Island Queen 508-548-4800; islandqueen.com
Passenger only, departs from Falmouth and Oak Bluffs.
Menemsha Bike Ferry North Rd., 508-645-5154. Passengers and bikes. Seasonal service between Menemsha and West Basin, Aquinnah.
MV Tours and Transport
508-939-1359; mvtransportandtours.com Patriot 508-548-2626; Year-round, passenger service between Falmouth and Oak Bluffs.
Seastreak
1 Seaview Ave., 1-800-262-8743; seastreak.com. Seasonal, passenger only, service between Boston, New Bedford, and Martha’s Vineyard. Steamship Authority
Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven, 508-693-9130; steamshipauthority.com. Year-round, vehicles and passengers, service between Woods Hole and Martha’s Vineyard. Vineyard Fast Ferry 401-295-4040; vineyardfastferry.com
Passenger only, service between Quonset Point, Rhode Island and Oak Bluffs from May to October.
Dunmere by the Sea 35 Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting
36 Eunice Rocker
38 Robert C. Hayden
BIKE TRAILS
OAK BLUFFS
A5 East Chop Lighthouse
D6 Flying Horses Carousel
D6 Memorial Statue
E6 Ocean Park F4 The Campgrounds F5 Union Chapel
F4 Captain Pease House
E7 Chappy Ferry
D3 Daniel Fisher House
C7 Edgartown Lighthouse
D6 Memorial Wharf
D6 Old Sculpin Gallery
D3 Old Whaling Church
D5 The Carnegie
VINEYARD HAVEN
E5 Captain Richard C. Luce House
E4 Katharine Cornell Memorial Theatre
G6 Martha’s Vineyard Museum
E5 Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse
(ALSO KNOWN AS TISBURY)
D5 Owen Park
E5 Stone Church
G3 War Memorial Veterans Park A7 West Chop Lighthouse
UP-ISLAND
D6 Agricultural Hall
G2 Beetlebung Corner
A6 Christiantown Chapel
B1 Gay Head Cliffs
A4 Gay Head Lighthouse
D6 Grange Hall
F1 Menemsha Village
D6 Old Mill Pond
C6 Polly Hill Arboretum
D7 The Youth Hostel
D6 West Tisbury Town Center
Don’t leave 2025 behind without saying hello to these iconic sites.
Menemsha
Captain Quint (Robert Shaw) and his shark-chumming boat, the Orca, fished out of Menemsha. In this scene, the boat is being pulled backward by “Bruce,” the stage name for the “Jaws” shark.
2
Aquinnah
This scene was filmed near the Aquinnah lighthouse, even though it was depicted as South Beach. Mayor Vaughn (Murray Hamilton) resists closing beaches despite the pleas of Police Chief Martin Brody (Roy Scheider) and oceanographer Matt Hooper (Richard Dreyfuss).
3 Then Now
East Chop Drive
East Chop Drive in Oak Bluffs. Not much has changed.
AQUINNAH
CHILMARK
MENEMSHA
“Jaws Bridge”
Some call it “Jaws Bridge,” but if you live around here, you know it’s Big Bridge. Did you know it was reconstructed about 35 years ago? Today’s Big Bridge sits about 17 inches higher than it did in the film.
In a scene from the movie under the “Jaws Bridge,” actor Chris Rebello, who played Michael Brody, was terrified from the sight of Jaws.
Edgartown Harbor
Captain Quint (Robert Shaw) and his boat, the Orca, passing through Edgartown Harbor. That’s the Edgartown Lighthouse in the back. The one pictured is Orca 1, but another one was made out of fiberglass, and is used in all the scenes where the ship is sinking or getting wrecked by Bruce, the 24foot mechanical shark.
Katama
Susan Backlinie responded to a casting call for a “strong woman swimmer willing to swim nude.” In the opening scene she goes for a moonlight swim and is devoured by the shark. Her hand and arm, complete with seaweed and climbing crabs, are found in a dune on South Beach in Katama.
Backlinie died May 11, 2024, at age 77.
Chappaquiddick Ferry
Ah, the Chappy Ferry. Still kickin’. These shots are from the Chappy side, looking toward Memorial Wharf in Edgartown.
Chappaquiddick
A WAMPUM
After a summer on display at the Aquinnah Cultural Center, the extraordinary wampum belt by Aquinnah Wampanoag tribal elder Donald “Slender Birch” Widdiss has returned to the Martha’s Vineyard Museum’s permanent collection. Commissioned by the Museum as the centerpiece for last year’s show “Generations: A Legacy of Art and Culture,” the belt served as a jumping-off point to highlight the creations of three generations of Widdiss family artists: the stunning pottery fashioned from t he multicolored clay of the sacred Gay Head Cliffs made by Donald’s mother, Gladys, and his son Heath, and wampum crafted by Donald and his son Jason. Chief Curator Bonnie Stacy shared about the impetus for commissioning the belt last year. “We’d been talking about adding more contemporary Wampanoag work to
the collection for quite a while. We wanted something special, to get a museum-quality piece. Berta Welch, who is on the Museum’s collections committee, got us in touch with Donald, and through the course of the conversations, we were talking about what we m ight want. He suggested a belt that would tell a story. We decided that was exactly what we wanted to do. He’s very creative, and we thought it would be a very good partnership.”
The
The strikingly bold and simultaneously complex belt immediately draws your eye. Widdiss crafted the beads from quahog shells, designed a handsome pattern for the some 25-inch-long piece, and carefully strung each
of the 1,599 beads into place over countless hours of work and a lifetime of experience.
The belt tells the story of Noepe (Martha’s Vineyard) and the Wampanoag p eople, starting with the creation of the Island and Moshup, the giant who formed it. Among other details are references to Noepe’s six towns and sailing vessels representing whaling and the a rrival of commerce and tourism. At the end is a striking eagle, marking the federal recognition of the Tribe in 1987.
belt tells the story of Noepe (Martha’s Vineyard) and the Wampanoag people, starting with the creation of the Island and Moshup, the giant who formed it.
The belt, however, resonates with meaning beyond its visual depiction. In a fascinating film by Indaia Whitcombe that accompanied the exhibit, Donald explains while working, “Each bead is telling part of the story
BELT
that sings
1,599 quahog beads weave a generational Wôpanâak story. BY ABBY REMER
of the belt. It’s not a graphic element. It’s an emotional element that is represented graphically. I have to make this belt speak.”
Jason “Strong Deer” learned to make wampum from his father. He says, “This is my contribution to my culture that has been passed down from previous generations. I don’t dance, sing, or play tribal drums — my part in honoring my culture is making wampum.”
leader. She began making and selling pottery to tourists as a child and continued refining and perfecting her craft throughout her long life.
I don’t dance, sing, or play tribal drums — my part in honoring my culture is making wampum.”
– JASON “STRONG DEER” WIDDISS
Donald’s mother, Gladys “Wild Cranberry” (Malonson) Widdiss (1914-2012), was a respected tribal elder, historian, educator, and
Gladys harvested her material from the sacred Gay Head Cliffs, which is prohibited to anyone who is not Wampanoag. Once asked what her pots meant to her, she responded, “When I work in clay, I’m home.” Her pieces were far more than a means to making money but, rather, a way to connect with the land her people called home for countless generations.
I n oral history recordings, Gladys re-
called learning how to craft pottery by m imicking her mother and hauling the clay up from the cliffs in burlap bags. She also speaks about the complex steps for making her wares, including gathering, drying, processing, cutting, and then combining the d ifferent-colored clays.
Gladys’s grandson, Heath “Strong Fox” Widdiss, also crafts clay pots, each with unique waves of red, terracotta, gray, and white that recall the Aquinnah Cliffs. Gladys formed her pieces by hand and dried t hem in the sun because a traditional kiln fades the natural colors. Heath devised a way to create his on a potter’s wheel and applies a clear coating that makes the distinct colors within each piece shine.
Generations Belt
COURTESY MARTHAS VINEYARD MUSEUM
Widdiss forms shapes from the clay he gathers himself in Aquinnah.
Tradition and innovation merge in Heath (Strong Fox) Widdiss, a member of the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah).
Crafting one-of-a-kind pots from the colorful clay of the sacred Gay Head Cliffs ties him to his youth, learning how to make hand-formed pinch pots from his grandmother, Gladys A. Widdiss (1914-2012), a t ribal elder, Wampanoag historian, and renowned potter who herself learned the technique at her own mother’s knee.
Widdiss, though, displayed a yearning for innovation from a tender age. “I always wanted to throw the clay on the wheel, and
my grandmother used to tell me, ‘That’s not what we do.’ She never said more, but you didn’t ask. You didn’t question Gram when she had her serious voice.”
Widdiss didn’t practice his craft for 32 of the 35 years he spent in law enforcement, which started on the Island shortly after high school, and then continued in Southborough: “I’d always planned on returning to the pottery when I retired. A couple of years before, I started taking wheel-throwing classes. I felt the
pinch pots were Gram’s thing. I didn’t want every time I presented a piece of pottery the response to be, ‘Oh, your grandmother did it this way,’ which was a compliment. But I wanted it to be my own thing.”
Likewise, Widdiss admits, “I felt with the pinch pots that it was a lot of work for the end result. I thought, at the time, if I throw it on a wheel, I can get a pot faster. I did my
LIFE THROUGH CLAY
ABBY REMER
Heath Widdiss continues his family and tribe’s artistic tradition. BY
Walking along the Cliffs to gather clay.
A finished pot drying.
Collecting clay at the Gay Head Cliffs.
Pots set aside to dry after trimming.
PHOTOS COURTESY HEATH WIDDISS
Completed pots sprayed with clear acrylic.
courses with store-bought clay, and could quickly throw a bowl and pot.”
He soon discovered that, unlike a consistent, store-bought clay, each color from the Cliffs — yellow, pink, white, red, black — has a different compound, and thus reacts differently when trying to be shaped on the wheel.
“The minute I put it on the wheel, it was almost like my grandmother was laughing at me. I tried pulling it up like any store-bought clay, and it doesn’t behave the same way. It took me quite a while to make a bowl. As the wheel goes around, you may have one thing in mind to do, but the clay will start to form itself. You have to just roll with it.”
Over time and with much experimentation, Widdiss has learned how to work with the special clay, and the process is complex.
He gathers each color, working with a shovel at the base of the Cliffs so as not to disturb their receding structure. “The best time to go is right after the rain, because it washes the sand away and exposes that good clay, which is like cream cheese.”
which helps the clay stay together and not crack while drip-drying as it hangs from a bungee cord: “Once it gets to the point where you can take it out of the bag without having to pour it out as a liquid, I put it on a board to let it air-dry outside until it is a consistency I can work with.”
iddiss next shapes each color into a flat square about 3 by 3 inches. Using his unique method, he creates a single mixed-color block ready to be thrown on the wheel: “Normally, when you throw a pot on the wheel, you’re pulling the clay up and down, getting it to wake up so it will do what it is that you want it to do.
“But each color has a mind of its own, with one wanting to go out, another going up, and another going down. The pot can start to wobble, and the mouth can start to angle and completely fall apart. Negotiating the clay to get it where you want is a process.”
to harden them, as you do with regular clay, Widdiss dries them indoors with a dehumidifier, which takes about two weeks. T hey dry too quickly in the sun, causing the dreaded cracks.
Widdiss then goes over the pots with steel wool to remove any rough areas, moving to the final touch of applying an acrylic-based sealer that accentuates the brilliant natural colors: “Using the acrylic spray excites me because, in my head, those colors are what I remember as a kid that the clay looked like on the Cliffs.”
The colors, which are more intense than what we see with the naked eye today, are essential to Widdiss’ satisfaction. “When somebody handles the pots and is as happy as I am, it’s awesome. I think they’re that beautiful. I know it sounds corny, but that’s what I ’m hoping for.”
It is not just his grandmother and great-grandmother who were artists. Today, his father, Donald, and brother, Jason, create stunning wampum jewelry. The upcoming exhibition at the Martha’s Vineyard Museum, “Generations: A Legacy of Art and Culture,” opening August 31, will highlight this family’s ties to ancient ways.
He brings it back to his studio, first making a slurry, which he then strains to remove any residue of sticks and leaves.
Each color then goes into a pillowcase,
Widdiss then trims the pot with metal tools to create the final shape and remove the brown film that occurs when it is made on the wheel, thereby revealing the original clay colors. Instead of firing the pieces in a hot kiln
The Gay Head Cliffs are essential to Widdiss’ spirit. Even in his youth, he recalls, “Almost every day, no matter what, I had to ride my bike out to them. It was like touching base. And to be able to make the pots now is just amazing. It’s been a dream come true.”
For more information about Heath Widdiss, visit gayheadpottery.com.
Heath Widdiss’ great-grandmother Minnie Malonson.
Heath, left, and his grandmother Gladys Widdiss working the clay together.
Heath’s grandmother Gladys Widdiss taught him how to make handformed pinch pots.
PHOTOS COURTESY HEATH WIDDISS
Finished pot.
Woodland Variety & Grill in Vineyard Haven is an Island local favorite.
BY DAVE PLATH
Father and daughter team, owner Rob Baker and Brittany Stinemire run Woodland Variety & Grill with friendly efficiency. Hot sandwiches are cooked to
PHOTOS: DAVE PLATH
If you know, you know.
There are places on Martha’s Vineyard that feel like secrets — shared through word of mouth between locals, and rarely publicized. (Like where to score a dozen farm-fresh eggs bought on the honor system –– Blackwater Farm.)
Woodland Variety & Grill in Vineyard Haven is such a place. It’s not flashy, it doesn’t sit on a harbor, and you won’t find a long line of tourists waiting outside. But step inside, and you’ll d iscover something deeply satis-
fying: good food, friendly faces, a nd prices that feel refreshingly out of step with the majority of the Island.
Originally opened in the 1980s at 455 State Road, Woodland started as a traditional variety store — part deli, part convenience stop, part coffee counter
— where you could grab a sandwich, shop for essentials, sip coffee, and play Keno all in one stop.
Over the years, it quietly evolved into a no-frills diner-style eatery, beloved by contractors, commuters, and anyone who appreciated a good meal without a lot of fuss.
Since 1995, it has been run by Rob Baker, who helped transform it into a full-service breakfast and
“Rob will cater to any request you like — if you ask for it, they will make it.”
–AARON BOYE, HOLMES HOLE CONSTRUCTION
lunch destination, with 20 tables and an unmistakably local vibe.
“If you’re looking for a particular contractor,” jokes Rob’s daughter Brittany, now part of the business, “I can probably tell you what time and day they’ll be here.” Regulars are greeted by name. Orders are remembered. It’s like the television show “Cheers”: Everybody knows your name.
Owner Rob Baker exemplifies service with a smile.
Lunch is always a busy affair filled with locals on their lunch break.
Just the right kind of basic
Woodland’s charm lies in its simplicity. It’s down-to-earth and — possibly unique for the Island — you can leave with both your belly and your wallet full. On an Island where a basic lunch can eas-
“If you’re looking for a particular contractor, I can probably tell you what time and day they’ll be here.” –BRITTANY STINEMIRE
ily exceed $20, Woodland Variety & Grill remains a rare exception. Here, you can still grab a bagel for under $4, an egg sandwich for under $6, or a thick, juicy burger for less than $10 — chips included.
Favorites include:
The Pilgrim – Roasted turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and mayo ($10.99)
Courtney’s Club – Turkey, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and mayo in a wrap ($10.99)
Meatball Sub – Marinara and provolone on a toasted roll ($13.99)
Steak Pizziola – Shaved steak, marinara, and provolone ($13.99)
In addition to an impressive breakfast/lunch/sandwich menu, there’s also a rotating daily special or two.
Island-rooted, community-focused
Woodland Variety & Grill is open seven days a week, Monday through Saturday, from 6 a m to 5 pm, and Sundays from 7 am to 3 pm. Orders are placed at the counter, and the service is always warm, efficient, and familiar. Dine in, take out, or simply linger with a coffee and a newspaper — the pace is yours to choose. Whether you’re craving a casual conversation and a f resh, hot cup of coffee, or a
hearty meal at the beginning, middle, or end of your day, Woodland is a go-to haven for the Vineyard faithful.
For longtime residents, Woodland is a staple. For seasonal visitors, it’s an opportunity to experience a more grounded, authentic side of the Island, where the food is good, the prices are kind, the welcome is always as warm as a bowl of clam chowdah, and the sandwiches come w ith a bag of chips. Hence, it really is all that and a bag of chips!
To my fellow Vineyarders who already know and love it — apologies for letting the secret out. To everyone else — you’re welcome!
Chef Stacey Hamilton minding the tickets on the grill.
Woodland wings served hot and fresh.
A healthy menu board also includes daily specials.
Steve Carlson enjoying his lunch break.
A fresh and thick chicken sandwich.
LEXICON: when
a chop’s not really a pork chop, and more Vineyard
LEXICON: when a chop’s not really a pork chop, and more Vineyard lingo.
lingo.
As in any centric community, we have our own lingo. Here are a few of the more common terms on the Vineyard’s linguistic road map.
As in any centric community, we have our own lingo. Here are a few of the more common terms on the Vineyard’s linguistic road map.
The Blinker/ The 4-way Stop/The Roundabout
The Blinker/ The 4-way Stop/The Roundabout
The most hotly debated intersection in the history of American motoring. Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road meets Barnes Road near the center of the Island. For years, this intersection was marked by a blinker — red lights flashing one way, yellow the other. Then for safety and traffic-flow reasons, this was replaced –despite a great deal of hollering and upset – by a 4-way stop sign.
The most hotly debated intersection in the history of American motoring. Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road meets Barnes Road near the center of the Island. For years, this intersection was marked by a blinker — red lights flashing one way, yellow the other. Then for safety and traffic-flow reasons, this was replaced –despite a great deal of hollering and upset – by a 4-way stop sign.
A roundabout was finally constructed in 2013, much to the outrage of some vocal Islanders. Given historical precedent, locals will refer to this area as “The Blinker” until the 22nd century.
A roundabout was finally constructed in 2013, much to the outrage of some vocal Islanders. Given historical precedent, locals will refer to this area as “The Blinker” until the 22nd century.
The Grange/The Ag Hall
The Grange/The Ag Hall
The Grange/The Ag Hall: The County Fair is held in West Tisbury each August. For most of its history it took place at the Grange Hall, which was always referred to as the Ag Hall (short for Agricultural Society, which sponsored the fair). The surrounding property, by extension, was called the Fairgrounds. Around the turn of the Millennium, a huge barn was assembled by volunteers in a field about half a mile from the Fairgrounds. This became the new site of the Fair and was titled The New Ag Hall, and the grounds, The Fairgrounds. For clarity, common usage has led to the Old Ag Hall being known now as The Grange.
The Grange/The Ag Hall: The County Fair is held in West Tisbury each August. For most of its history it took place at the Grange Hall, which was always referred to as the Ag Hall (short for Agricultural Society, which sponsored the fair). The surrounding property, by extension, was called the Fairgrounds. Around the turn of the Millennium, a huge barn was assembled by volunteers in a field about half a mile from the Fairgrounds. This became the new site of the Fair and was titled The New Ag Hall, and the grounds, The Fairgrounds. For clarity, common usage has led to the Old Ag Hall being known now as The Grange.
Five Corners
Five Corners
The most congested intersection on the Vineyard. State Road turns into Beach Road near where the VH ferry traffic spills out. It’s a nightmare.
The most congested intersection on the Vineyard. State Road turns into Beach Road near where the VH ferry traffic spills out. It’s a nightmare.
CHOP?
CHOP?
See how the Vineyard is sort of a lumpy triangle with two apexes? Those are West Chop and East Chop. Culturally, each is known for a particular kind of well-heeled seasonal community. It would be indiscreet to comment further.
See how the Vineyard is sort of a lumpy triangle with two apexes? Those are West Chop and East Chop. Culturally, each is known for a particular kind of well-heeled seasonal community. It would be indiscreet to comment further.
CIRCUIT AVE
CIRCUIT AVE
Oak Bluffs’ Main Street. (Vineyard Haven and Edgartown both have Main Streets called, interestingly, “Main Street.”
The up-Island towns are not town enough to require the equivalent of a Main Street.) Just to confuse matters, locals in OB often refer to Circuit Ave as “Main Street.”
Oak Bluffs’ Main Street. (Vineyard Haven and Edgartown both have Main Streets called, interestingly, “Main Street.” The up-Island towns are not town enough to require the equivalent of a Main Street.) Just to confuse matters, locals in OB often refer to Circuit Ave as “Main Street.”
Chappaquiddick, a rural sub-island that is intermittently attached to the Vineyard along a stretch of South Beach. Someday, maybe, people will stop associating it with Ted Kennedy.
Chappaquiddick, a rural sub-island that is intermittently attached to the Vineyard along a stretch of South Beach. Someday, maybe, people will stop associating it with Ted Kennedy.
Big Bridge/ Little Bridge
Big Bridge/ Little Bridge
Two (non-draw) bridges along the sweep of Edgartown’s State Beach. These bridges, spanning man-made channels, are here partly to allow Sengekontacket to drain, but mostly so kids can jump o ‘em.
Two (non-draw) bridges along the sweep of Edgartown’s State Beach. These bridges, spanning man-made channels, are here partly to allow Sengekontacket to drain, but mostly so kids can jump o ‘em.
The Triangle
The Triangle
Aquinnah/Gay Head
Aquinnah/Gay Head
The indigenous Wampanoags named the western chunk of the Island Aquinnah. White people renamed it Gay Head, to reflect the brightly colored clay cliffs making up the headland. A few decades ago, the Wampanoag Tribe succeeded in returning it to its original name, although a number of things (like the cliffs themselves) are still known as Gay Head.
The indigenous Wampanoags named the western chunk of the Island Aquinnah. White people renamed it Gay Head, to reflect the brightly colored clay cliffs making up the headland. A few decades ago, the Wampanoag Tribe succeeded in returning it to its original name, although a number of things (like the cliffs themselves) are still known as Gay Head.
The second-most congested intersection on the Island, where Beach Road cuddles up to the Vineyard Haven-Edgartown Road and turns into Edgartown’s Upper Main Street.
The second-most congested intersection on the Island, where Beach Road cuddles up to the Vineyard Haven-Edgartown Road and turns into Edgartown’s Upper Main Street.
HAPPY
HAPPY
CCTHE FORK?
THE FORK?
A fork in the road in southeastern Edgartown. The North Fork goes east and the South Fork also goes, pretty much, east. Both forks lead to the broad open sand-plains of Katama and South Beach.
A fork in the road in southeastern Edgartown. The North Fork goes east and the South Fork also goes, pretty much, east. Both forks lead to the broad open sand-plains of Katama and South Beach.
AN “ISLAND CAR”
AN “ISLAND CAR”
A frequently old, beat-up jalopy (whether it be Land Rover or car-mutt) that nobody in their right mind would ever drive on off-Island highways. Many Island cars are “Island cars.” However, regular cars will work just fine for all the places described in this lexicon.
A frequently old, beat-up jalopy (whether it be Land Rover or car-mutt) that nobody in their right mind would ever drive on off-Island highways. Many Island cars are “Island cars.” However, regular cars will work just fine for all the places described in this lexicon.
A reference to either the prevailing winds or to increasing longitude, “up” is west and “down” is east. Culturally, “up-Island” refers to the more rural towns of West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah, and “down-Island” to Tisbury, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown. But it’s relative: Edgartown being the easternmost town, some Edgartonians refer to the rest of the Island as “up-Island.”
A reference to either the prevailing winds or to increasing longitude, “up” is west and “down” is east. Culturally, “up-Island” refers to the more rural towns of West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah, and “down-Island” to Tisbury, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown. But it’s relative: Edgartown being the easternmost town, some Edgartonians refer to the rest of the Island as “up-Island.”
50 years
of farming
Morning Glory hits a milestone.
BY ELLA MUNNELLY
Corn on display at the Morning Glory Farmstand.
Jim and Debbie Athearn with their children Simon, Prudence, and Dan in 1979.
Iyoung James (“Jim”) and Deborah Athearn staked their future on a patch of Edgartown soil, a truck in a field, and a card table shaded by an umbrella. Their toddlers played nearby while Jim sold ears of corn and baskets of tomatoes to Islanders who were craving what the land could provide.
Half a century later, Morning Glory Farm has become something far bigger, a family-run institution that feeds the Island year-round, from sweet corn and zucchini bread in July to pumpkins and fresh-cut flowers in the fall. What began as one family’s dream has grown into 130 acres of vegetables, fruits, and pastureland stretching across three towns, with a bustling farm stand at its heart.
“It was my predestination,” said James Athearn. “It was always crawling around in my ‘Gee, wouldn’t it be nice’ file.”
Today, his children and their families carry that dream forward. The second generation has built on their parents’ foundation while keeping Morning Glory rooted in the Athearns’ original commitment to ethical, sustainable farming.
“We set up a truck out in the field over there,” Jim recalled, gesturing out toward the produce growing in the sun, then pointing across the street to a gravel lot. “The next year, we set up in that parking lot across the street with an umbrella and a table.”
Although those first two years had nowhere near the production that Morning Glory’s farm stand bears today, they were monumentally significant to the future of the farm, because they made it clear to the Athearns that there was a demand for local produce.
As business increased, so did the infrastructure. “They’ve all just come logically, one by one, in terms of buildings,” said Jim. Since opening, they’ve added the farm stand, a vegetable barn, worker housing, a wind-
mill, a food truck, a nd several greenhouses.
Over the years, Jim has seen other farms on the Island grow and change as well: “There are periods when you might say it’s a period of latency, or that farming had faded out, and then it was a resurgence, but I don’t know if it was that clearly marked. There’s always been some farmers, and sometimes there’s more than others, and sometimes they’re doing different things.”
In 1970, Jim and Debbie began seriously thinking about farming, and at the time Ronnie Silva was a pioneer farmer growing vegetables in West Tisbury. Silva told the Athearns that they would be able to sell just about everything they grew, so they did just that.
didn’t have farmland, but I made it by taking down the trees,” said Jim.
In addition to clearing forest, Jim was gifted with some land. Jim’s father-in-law had bought land on the Island at a tax auction in the ’40s for $7. At the time, he didn’t know where it was or how much of it he had bought. When Jim married Debbie, the land was gifted to them as a wedding present, and
“It takes many brave leaps, farming, every spring, just going out in the cold, barren earth and hoping that things will grow, and buying supplies for an income that’s months away.”
As Jim described his early influences, his son Simon turned off Edgartown–West Tisbury Road on a tractor, waving as he entered the parking lot. He had spent his morning harvesting corn, which he noted was especially bountiful.
“I was just about to tell her the Reynolds story,” said Jim as Simon approached the picnic table in front of the farm stand.
“Oh great,” responded Simon, “I’ll turn off the water while you embarrass me.”
Several decades ago, Mrs. Reynolds owned a plot of land that was covered with pine trees and bushes, and when Jim met her, he expressed his interest in cleaning up the space. Before they could talk logistics, Simon, who was 2 years old at the time, stood up and peed off his father’s truck, narrowly missing Mrs. Reynolds. She decided to look past this harrowing bladder incident, and ended up leasing her land to the Athearn family. “It kind of
in 1973, when they moved back to the Island, they decided to put it to use.
“People want fresh local foods, and we’ve been lucky enough to be the ones grow ing it and offering it,” said Simon, Jim’s eldest son. “I gotta give my parents a lot of credit for constantly improv ing,” he added.
G rowing up on such a large-scale farm is an expe rience that is unfamiliar to most, and Simon appreciates the rareness of his childhood.
“The freedom of space and opportunity and boredom allows you to just do stuff and have space to fool around on, which was pretty fun,” said Simon.
“Our parenting method might be defined as benign ne
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY THE ATHEARN FAMILY UNLESS NOTED
glect,” added Jim with a laugh.
Simon noted how formative it was, watching his parents work on the farm. Seeing them pick barrels of produce up, pull down trees, build buildings, and move livestock around was all notable and prominent to young Simon. At the t ime, though, if you had asked Simon what he wanted to be when he grew up, he would not have said farmer.
“They had encouraged us pretty steadily to choose any vocation that made us happy,” said Simon about his parents. “That’s what they were doing, and their vocation didn’t pre-describe ours. It didn’t take until I was
on the time when he announced his return to the Island.
T hey were in Jim’s truck, driving to Maine.
“I was kind of stunned, I guess,” said Jim. “We Athearn fellas don’t get that excited very often, but I knew it was a good thing. I don’t think I realized how good a thing it would be within a short amount of time.”
Not only is farming hard work, it is also a big risk. “It takes many brave leaps, farming, every spring, just going out in the cold, barren earth and hoping that things will grow, and buying supplies for an income that’s months away,” said Simon.
Part of what makes those leaps worth it is the response from the Island community. “It’s not just the satisfaction of seeing a crop wellgrown,” said Simon, “but walking into the farm stand and seeing how they’re displaying all the produce and the variety that we have, and the quality, I just feel very proud of that. And then the frosting on the cake is that we have people from the community repeatedly telling us how they appreciate what we’re doing.”
Building the farm stand was also a huge risk financially. “A core memory for me, busi-
building a new store, and the risk of it,” said Simon.
“The boys were instrumental at the same time in their consultation, because we knew it was their future we were talking about,” added Jim.
Suzy Crowley is the farmstand manager, and has been for the past 10 years. “The colors right now are just beautiful,” she said, arranging a display of produce at the front door of the farm stand, gesturing toward the pumpkins, white eggplants, red peppers, basil, and other vibrant produce spilling out of their respective baskets. “I pinch myself sometimes still, just about what this means here. It’s just such a unique business; the family is just so wonderful to work for, it’s very rewarding.”
Izzy Gomes recently started working at the farmstand, and was arranging a pumpkin display with guidance from Crowley. “It’s a lot of fun. I grew up coming here, so it’s fun to see the behind-the-scenes,” said Gomes.
Looking back on 50 years, there are many moments that stick out to Jim as special, but one he remembers well is years ago, when his children were all still young, and they were out in the field together gathering hay. “All he three kids came out to help me, and they were kind of fooling around, because they’re always fooling around when they’re ogether, and they all were smiling and laughing. And they looked like me, every one looked like three little Jims,” said Jim. Now Athearn grandchildren run across the farm, with future generations sure to follow.
Jim in the cornfield.
Morning Glory Farmstand.
Front display of produce at the Morning Glory Farmstand.
dining
From an on-the-go meal to a topnotch fine dining experience, we’ve got you covered. The Island must-haves — a lobster roll, bowl of chowder, local oysters, or a fresh fish sandwich are all available not only seasonally but year-round as well. And
Y = Year-round
S = Seasonal
AQUINNAH
S Aquila Coffee House 17 Aquinnah Circle. S Cliffhangers Aquinnah Circle, 508-955-9163.
S The Gay Head Store 33 Aquinnah Circle, 508-955-9142.
Y Orange Peel Bakery & Pizza 22 State Rd., 508-645-2025; orangepeelbakery.net.
S The Outermost Inn 81 Lighthouse Rd., 508-645-3511; outermostinn.com.
CHILMARK
S The Beach Plum Inn & Restaurant 50 Beach Plum Ln., 508-645-9454; beachpluminn.com.
S Chilmark General Store 7 State Rd., 508-645-3739; chilmarkgeneralstore.com.
S Chilmark Tavern 1435 State Rd., 508-645-9400; chilmarktavern.com.
S Homeport 512 North Rd., 508-645-2679; homeportmv.com.
S Larsen’s Fish Market 56 Basin Rd., 508-645-2680; larsensfishmarket.com.
S Menemsha Fish Market 54 Basin Rd., 508-645-2282; menemshafishmarket.net.
S Menemsha Galley 515 North Rd., 508-645-9819; menemshagalley.com.
if you’re in the mood for a good bucket of fried chicken, we have that too. Visit listed websites for menus, hours, reservations, and takeout options. Let us know if we don’t have your favorite restaurant here, and we will do our best to add it to the next issue of Vineyard Visitor.
EDGARTOWN
S 19 Prime Cast Iron Steakhouse 19 Church St., 774-224-0550; 19primesteak.com.
S 19 Raw Oyster Bar 19 Church St., 774-224-0550; 19rawoysterbar.com.
Y Alchemy
71 Main St., 508-627-9999; alchemyedgartown.com.
Y Al’s Package Store
258 Upper Main St., 508-627-4347.
S Among the Flowers Café 17 Mayhew Ln., 508-627-3233.
S Atlantic Fish and Chop House 2 Main St., 508-627-7001; atlanticmv.com.
S Atria
137 Main St., 508-627-5850; atriamv.com.
S Bad Martha’s Brewery 270 Upper Main St., 508-939-4415; badmarthabeer.com
S Behind the Bookstore 46 Main St., 774-549-9123; btbmv.com.
S Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium 22 Dock St., 508-939-4069; benandbillsmv.com.
S Bettini Restaurant
131 North Water St., Harbor View Hotel, 508-627-3761; harbor-view.com.
S Blackbird Café 19 North Water St., 978-263-7722; myblackbirdcafe.com.
S Blackbird Chappaquiddick Food Truck 219 Chappaquiddick Rd., 978-263-7722; myblackbirdcafe.com.
S Black Sheep 17 Airport Rd., 508-338-7770; blacksheeponmv.com
S Chesca’s 38 North Water Street, 508-627-1234; chescasmv.com.
Y China House Restaurant
234 Upper Main St., 508-627-7272.
S The Covington
52 Main St., 508-627-7678; thecovingtonrestaurant.com.
S Mad Martha’s Ice Cream 12 Circuit Ave., madmarthas.com.
S Midnight Mediterranean
6 Circuit Ave., Ext., (508) 338-7366.
S Midnight Taco
7 Circuit Ave., Ext., 508-560-3222.
Y Mikado Asian Bistro & Bar
6 Circuit Ave., 508-87-9119; mikadoob.com.
S Mocha Mott’s 10 Circuit Ave., 508-696-1922, mochamotts.com.
Y Mo’s Lunch at the P.A. Club
137 Vineyard Ave., moslunch.com; 508-687-9744.
S Murdick’s Fudge
5 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs, 508-693-2335; originalmurdicksfudge.com.
Y M.V. Chowder Co.
9 Oak Bluffs Ave., 508-696-3000; loftob.com.
S MV Salads
55 Circuit Ave., 508-338-7754; mvsalads.com.
S Nancy’s Restaurant & Snack Bar
29 Lake Ave., 508-693-0006; nancysrestaurant.com.
S Nauti Cow
28 Lake Ave.
S Nomans 15 Island Inn Rd., 508-338-2474; nomansmv.com.
Y Offshore Ale Co.
30 Kennebec Ave., 508-693-2626; offshoreale.com.
Y Our Market
1 East Chop Dr., 508-693-3000, ourmarketmv.com.
S Pawnee House 20 Kennebec Ave., 508-338-2770; thepawneehousemv.com.
S Red Cat Kitchen 6 Circuit Ave., 508-696-6040; redcatkitchen.com.
Y Reliable Market 36 Circuit Ave., 508-693-1102; thereliablemarket.com.
S Rosie’s Frozen Yogurt 19 Circuit Ave., 508-687-0031, rosiesofmv.com.
S Sand Bar & Grill 6 Circuit Avenue Ext., 508-693-7111; mvsandbar.com.
Y Sharky’s Cantina 31 Circuit Ave., 508-693-7501; sharkyscantina.com.
S Stella Salumeria 6 Circuit Ave., 508-338-7457.
Y The Ritz Kitchen 4 Circuit Ave., 508-693-9851; .theritzmv.com/kitchen.
Y The Sweet Life Café 63 Circuit Ave., 508-696-0200; sweetlifemv.com.
S TigerHawk Sandwich Co. 12B Circuit Ave., 508-338-7306; tigerhawkmv.com
S Toccopuro Coffee 45 Circuit Ave., 508- 338-2463.
Y Tony’s Market 119 Dukes County Ave., 508-693-4799; tonysmarketmv.com.
S Vineyard’s Best Ice Cream and Coffee 12 Kennebec Ave., 617-775-7601.
S Vineyard Caribbean Cuisine
7 Circuit Avenue Ext., 508-338-7077.
S Vineyard Wine Shop 38 Circuit Ave., 508-693-0943.
Y Winston’s Kitchen
1 East Chop Drive, 508-687-9572, winstonskitchenmv.com.
VINEYARD HAVEN
S 9 Craft Kitchen & Bar 9 Main St., 9craftkitchen.com.
Y Ackee Tree Carribean 25 Beach Rd., 954-865-8972
S The Attic at Waterside 82 Main St., 508-693-8899; watersidemarket.com.
Y Beach Road Restaurant 79 Beach Rd., 508-693-8582; beachroadmv.com.
Y The Black Dog Café 509 State Rd., 508-696-8190; theblackdog.com.
Y The Black Dog Tavern Beach Street Ext., 508-693-9223; theblackdog.com.
Y Bobby B’s Seafood & Pizza 22 Main St., 508-693-8266; bobbybsmv.com.
Y Catboat Coffee Co. 79 Beach Rd., catboatcoffee.com.
S The Cove Golf and Grill 386 State Rd., 508-693-2611; covemv.com.
Y Cronig’s Market 357 Lower State Rd., 508-693-4457; cronigsmarket.com.
Y Delicious MV Bakery 22 Main St., 508-693-2223; deliciousmv.com.
Y El Barco 16 Union St., 508-684-5001; elbarcomv.com
S Fish MV 80 Main St., 508-693-6399; fishmv.com.
S Garde East 52 Beach Rd., 508-687-9926; gardeeast.com.
S The Ice Box 79 Beach Rd., 508-693-8182; sites.google.com/view/mvicebox.
Y Island Fresh Pizza and Subs 395 State Rd., 508-338-2764; islandfreshpizza.com.
S John’s Fish Market & Sandy’s Fish & Chips 5 Martin Rd., 508-693-1220; johnsfishmarket.com.
dining index
Continued from page 43
Y La Choza
4 Main St., 508-693-9050.
Y La Strada
65 Main St., 508-338-7397.
S Mad Martha’s Ice Cream 24 Union St., madmarthas.com.
Y Mikado Asian Bistro
76 Main St., 508-338-7096, mikadomv.com.
Y Mocha Mott’s
15 Main St., 508-693-3155; mochamotts.com.
S Murdick’s Fudge
79 Main St., 508-693-7344; originalmurdicksfudge.com.
Y Nat’s Nook
38 Main St., 508-338-2340; natsnookmv.com.
Y The Net Result
79 Beach Rd., 508-693-6071; mvseafood.com.
Y Nina’s on Beach Road
61 Beach Rd., 212-470-1115, ninasmv.com.
Y The Ocean Club
75 Main St., oceanclubmv.com.
S Pie Chicks Bakery
395 State Rd., 508-693-0228; piechicks.com.
Y Porto Pizza
36 Water St., 508-693-6200; portopizza-mv.com.
Y Quitsa Kitchen
455 State Rd. Unit #9, 508-338-7787; quitsacuisine.com.
S REVEL Galley & Provisions
342 State Rd., 508-645-6556; revelgalley.com.
Y Rocco’s Pizzeria 14 Beach Rd., Tisbury Marketplace, marthasvineyardpizza.com.
Y Salvatore’s Ristorante Italiano 20 Union St., 508-687-9457; salvatoresristorante.com.
Y Scottish Bakehouse 977 State Rd., 508-693-6633; scottishbakehousemv.com.
Y S & S Kitchenette 48 Main St., 508-338-2392; sskitchenette.com.
Y Stop & Shop
50 Water St., 508-693-8339; stopandshop.com.
Y Sweet Bites 32 Beach St., 508-684-8585; sweetbitesmv.com.
S The Maker Pasta Shop & Cafe 339 State Rd., 508-687-9794; themakerpastashop.com.
Y MV Tap 13 Beach St., instagram.com/mvtapbar
S Tisberry Frozen Yogurt 29 Main St., 508-687-9314; tisberrymv.com.
Y Vineyard Caribbean Cuisine 13 Beach St., 508-338-4094.
Y Vineyard Grocer 294 State Rd., 508-693-2000; vineyardgrocer.com.
Y Waterside Market 82 Main St., 508-693-8899; watersidemarket.com.
Y Wolf’s Den Pizza 45 Beach Rd., 508-687-9112; wolfsdenmv.com.
Y Woodland Variety & Grill 455 State Rd., Woodland Marketplace, 508693-6795; woodlandvarietyandgrill.com.
WEST TISBURY
S 7a Foods 1045 State Rd., 508-693-4636; 7afoods.com.
Y Alley’s General Store 1045 State Rd., 508-693-0088.
Y Cronig’s Market 469 Upper State Rd., 508-693-2234; cronigsmarket.com.
Y Plane View Restaurant 71 Airport Rd., 508-693-1886; mvyairport.com.
Y State Road Restaurant 688 State Rd., 508-693-8582; stateroadrestaurant.com.
Y Vineyard Take Out 479 State Rd, 508-500-8634; vineyardtakeoutmenu.com.
S Woods at Lambert’s Cove Inn 92 Manaquayak Rd., 508-422-8051; lambertscoveinn.com.
Let us know if we don't have your favorite Vineyard restaurant listed here, and we'll do our best to add it to the next Vineyard Visitor. Send us a line at vineyardvisitor@ mvtimes.com.
Menemsha Pond Waterfront, Chilmark
House and guest house on 3.8 acres with a private dock on Menemsha Pond. Unique among Island estates for its combination of privacy, convenience, and expansive views. In the heart of Menemsha within walking distance of the classic harbor. Exclusively offered at $7,450,000.
East Chop Victorian, Oak Bluffs
Welcome to this year-round Victorian/Gingerbread home, close to the harbor, Jetty Beach, and downtown. The home and gardens have been lovingly maintained, located in the highly sought-after East Chop neighborhood. Exclusively offered at $1,795,000.
Waterfront Hines Point, Vineyard Haven
Lily Hill - a rare Hines Point offering that includes a waterfront home with exquisite views, a deep water mooring and dock, and 130 feet of private fine-sand beach, all poised on a knoll on the western shore of the Lagoon. Exclusively offered at $6,795,000.
West Chop Woods, Vineyard Haven
A unique property with two homes, 6 bedrooms and 3.5 baths, on 1.8 acres. This property combines the tranquility of the West Chop woods with the convenience of proximity to downtown Vineyard Haven. Exclusively offered at $2,700,000.
504 State Road, West Tisbury MA 02575 · 508.696.9999
Beetlebung Corner, Chilmark MA 02535 · 508.645.2628
www.tealaneassociates.com
Pilot Hill Farm, Vineyard Haven
For the first time in 37 years, an extraordinary property within Pilot Hill Farm is for sale. Set on nearly 8 acres, this estate features a meticulously renovated historic farmhouse, a guest house, 2 artist studios, and a carriage house. Exclusively offered at $6,900,000.
Waterview Church Street, Aquinnah
This renovated home is perched on a hillside, offering views of the Atlantic Ocean. This 2-story 3-bedroom 2.5 bath home connects you with the outdoors through a wall of glass doors leading to a deck and patio perfect for outdoor dining and entertaining. Exclusively offered at $2,199,000.
21 Acres on Cencelle, Chilmark
Private estate with ocean views, tucked away in the rolling hills and farmlands of Chilmark, offers sweeping ocean views and a rare sense of seclusion and serenity. The modern style home is flooded with natural light and panoramic views. Exclusively offered at $6,750,000.
Edson Forest Road, West Tisbury
Exquisite home in a stunning location on 4-acres, overlooking a neighbour’s pond. This special spot is authentic up-island character at its best. This newly renovated home 3-bedroom, 4.5 bath can support 6 bedrooms. Exclusively offered at $3,995,000.
504 State Road, West Tisbury MA 02575 · 508.696.9999 Beetlebung Corner, Chilmark MA 02535 · 508.645.2628
