The annual festival harvests the best of the Island community. By Allison Roberts
14-17 Fishing Derby
Eighty years of fin-tastic fun. The Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby. By Lisa
Belcastro
18-19 Art in Oak Bluffs
Stroll O.B.’s galleries and studios. By Abby Remer
27-29 JAWS Amity Island
Fifty years ago, Martha’s Vineyard got its Hollywood closeup.
30-31 “Jaws” map
Make a day trip around Amity Island and see locations firsthand.
32-33 Things to do
What to do while On-Island.
35-37 Woodland
A local island favorite eatery. By Dave Plath
38-39 Mo Glo Food Truck
Morning Glory food truck for tasty food on-the-go. By Allison Roberts
Where to eat, buy groceries, and find ice cream.
A letter from the publisher
If you are just arriving on the Island for the first time or a long time visitor, welcome to the best time of year to be on Martha’s Vineyard!
This issue of the Vineyard Visitor is rolling out for Labor Day, which the locals on t he Island consider the start of their summer: a time when those who work hard all summer trying to make a l iving off the 10 busiest weeks of the year, which can typically produce more than half their income. As the days grow a bit shorter and the nights cooler, the Island crowds start to thin out and we can get through knowing it will soon start to slow down. For locals, that is very welcome news. For those of you smart enough to plan a trip here in the fall, it represents a great opportunity. In this issue, you can read all about the goings on, from great art exhibitions to the Harvest Festival and from the Morning Glory food truck to a favorite breakfast spot for locals known as the Woodland Grill.
we might call a bonding experience. I’ve missed many years when I was assigned to the Middle East for The Boston Globe, but a safe guess is that I have had 20 or so buttons. My four sons who are all in their 20s have had their share as well. And, since I knew you would ask, I must humbly concede I have never made the board as a winner or even a finalist! I put all my faith in the next generation!
So if I am such a mediocre fisherman why is this my favorite annual tradtion? Well, the Fourth of July is a lot of pressure and brings a fair amount of tension. Illumination night in Oak Bluffs in August is beautiful for sure, but the traffic is just about impossible to navigate. The Agricultural Fair is of course a marquee e vent that marks the end of summer and fun for all ages, a true celebration of farming and a fun time, especially for families with kids who line up for the carousel and cotton candy booths.
In the time before President Bill Clinton put the Vineyard on the map as a summer destination, sending real estate prices soaring and crowds of tourists surging, there wasn’t really much excitement on the Island after Labor Day. It was the summer of 1993 when President Clinton and his family took up summer residence; now, 32 years later, the Island is bustling straight through the fall, and many families with summer homes or rentals are finding ways to celebrate Thanksgiving on the Island. But for those of you pondering a stay this fall, the most exciting autumn ritual is, of course, the M artha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby.
“The Derby,” as it is known, is definitely my personal favorite annual event, which this year marks its 80th anniversary. For me, it was 1986 when I got my first button –- the small pins with numbers given to those who officially register. I know this because I was with my then-girlfriend (now wife), Julie, and we watched the 1986 Red Sox infamous game at The Wharf in which they botched a chance to clinch the world series against the Mets. It was what
But of all the signature happenings on this Island, the Derby is unique in bringing tourists and residents of the shoulder season from all over the country and r the world together with locals, including house painters and roofers who will abandon their ladders when they hear the blues are running, and late-night restaurant workers who will rise at the crack of dawn if there are rumors of big striped bass on the prowl. And for the truly committed, there is just nothing like happening upon a frenzy of bonito or false albacore. These are the four categories of fish that can be weighed in at Derby headquarters on the harbor in Edgartown, and even if you have never been fishing, it is worth a trip to the weigh-in (8 –10 AM or 7 –9 PM). Don’t miss it! And stay up-to-date on the month-long obsession through our fishing columnist, Lisa Belcastro, who is, for my money, the best writer on fishing on the Island.
And I will be sleeplessly fixated on making this the year that I finally see my name in chalk up there on the board at Derby headquarters! And I hope to see your name up there, too!
Best, Charlie
Charles M. Sennott Publisher
MV Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby
Don’t Miss
Author Events and Bookstores
Bunch of Grapes Bookstore
Author talks and signings, books, gifts, toys, and more. 23 Main Street, Vineyard Haven. Visit: bunchofgrapes.indielite. org or call 508-693-2291.
Edgartown Books
Author talks and signings, art supplies, books, gifts, toys, and more. 44 Main St, Edgartown. For a full list of author signings and dates, visit: edgartownbooks or call 508-627-8463.
Community Festivals and Events
Potters Bowl
Beautiful handmade bowls created during the past year are donated for this special fundraising event. Select a handcrafted bowl of your choice and be served locally made soup from Island restaurants and caterers. Sept. 7, at 4 pm, with a rain date of Sept. 14. Featherstone Center for the Arts. To learn more, visit featherstoneart.org or call 508693-1850.
MV Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby
Experience great fishing, rich history, meeting new friends, and generous sponsor-donated prizes to support their scholarship program. Sept. 14 - Saturday Oct. 18. Daily Weigh-Ins: Mornings, 8 am to 10 am. Evenings, 7 pm to 9 pm. Dock St. Edgartown.
Vineyard Artisans Fall Festival
Catch all your favorite Island artisans! Weaving, fine furniture, pottery, leather goods, oil
Club provides an opportunity to meet other people with similar interests, to learn and share together, and to have fun. West Tisbury. For the latest events and workshops, visit marthasvineyardgardenclub.org.
Island Folk Pottery and Sculpture Trail
Walk along a quarter-mile enchanting trail through the woods and discover whimsical sculptures on the way to an Island Folk Pottery shop. Created by artists Bill O’Callaghan and Heather Goff, the path is open daily from 9 am to dusk. Their pottery studio is open on Monday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, 11 am to 5 pm, and on Sundays, 2 to 5 pm. 16 Marion’s Way, Chilmark. To learn more, visit islandfolkpottery. com or call 508-955-9944.
Aquinnah Cultural Center
paintings, pastels, mixed media, sculpture, wampum jewelry, hand knit items, clothing, photography, handmade books and much more. Oct. 11 and 12, 10 am to 4 pm. 55 Narragansett Ave, Union Chapel, Oak Bluffs.
Exhibits & Gardens
Martha’s Vineyard Garden Club
Enjoy programs and activities that cover a wide range of gardening topics and offer hands-on experience. The M.V. Garden
Learn the history of the Aquinnah Wampanoag through the contents of our museum, the voices of the Wampanoag community, and cultural events for both tribal members and the general public. 35 Aquinnah Circle, Aquinnah. Visit: www.aquinnah. org or call 508-645-7900.
Polly Hill Arboretum
Discover unique trees, cones, berries, and blooms by taking a stroll through the beautiful historic grounds at Polly Hill Arboretum.
Martha’s Vineyard Garden Club
Guided tours, scavenger hunts, and other activities are often available, and pamphlets can be picked up near the visitor center, which is on a bus route off State Road. West Tisbury. Visit: pollyhillarboretum.org or call 508693-9426.
Featherstone Center for the Arts
Spark your creativity at the beautiful Featherstone campus, which offers a variety of classes and workshops in ceramics, drawing, fiber arts, jewelry making, literary arts, mixed media, painting, and printmaking. There are also inspirational art exhibits. 30 Featherstone Lane, Oak Bluffs. Visit featherstoneart.org or call 508-693-1850.
Martha’s Vineyard Museum
Explore the history, art, and culture of the Island at the expansive M.V. Museum, which i ncludes a welcome center, gift shop, café, and community events. 151 Lagoon Pond Road, Vineyard Haven. Visit mvmuseum.org or call 508-627-4441.
tures, including where they come f rom, their interesting behaviors, and why they are important. To find out what this unique farm has to offer, such as fun classes, events, and a gift shop. Oak Bluffs. 1 Head of the Pond Road. Visit: islandalpaca.com or call 508-693-5554.
Trustees’ FARM Institute
Find activities for the whole family at the Trustees’ 162-acre working farm in Katama, which has cows, goats, chickens, sheep, and other animals, plus a vegetable garden, pastures, a farm store, and a commercial kitchen. Programs include fun and educational cooking classes. 14 Aero Ave., Edgartown. Visit: thetrustees.org/tfi or call 508-627-7007.
Films & Theater
Annual Women In Film Festival
Hall in West Tisbury and venues across the Island. Circuit Arts presents pay-what-you-can film screenings, live theater, dance, comedy, and more. Tickets and event details are available at circuitarts.org. They also program and operate the Vineyard’s Drive-In at the YMCA in Oak Bluffs, at 111R Edgartown Vineyard Haven Road. Learn more at d riveinmv.com.
Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse
Trustees’ Mytoi Japanese-style Garden
Take a mindful stroll along winding footpaths that are nestled among a uniquely designed, secluded garden with a tranquil pond. It includes pine and birch trees, flowering bushes, a bridge, benches, and a rustic shelter for quiet contemplation. Chappaquiddick. To plan your visit, check thetrustees.org/place/mytoi.
Farm Activities
Martha’s Vineyard Agricultural Society
Discover all kinds of workshops, classes, and events related to gardening, farming, and homesteading that are offered throughout the summer season. Most of them are held at the Agricultural Hall, but also at other sites around the Vineyard. West Tisbury. For the schedule, visit marthasvineyardagriculturalsociety.org.
Island Alpaca
Spend some time with adorable and gentle alpacas and learn more about these curious crea-
A celebration of women in film, both in front of and behind the camera. This festival features stories that have not usually been told from a woman’s perspective. October 17-19, MV Film Center, 79 Beach Rd, Vineyard Haven. Visit: mvfilmsociety.com.
Circuit Arts, West Tisbury and Oak Bluffs
Experience a vibrant mix of arts programming at the Grange
Enjoy stage plays, live music, poetry, art exhibits, musicals, and much more at the Island’s only professional year-round theater. M.V. Playhouse is located on Church Street, just around the corner from Main Street. There are also outdoor productions at the Tisbury Amphitheater in a beautiful wooded setting near Lake Tashmoo. 24 Church Street, Vineyard Haven. Visit mvplayhouse.org or call 508-696-6300.
TBD Improv, Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and West Tisbury
Experience a highly interactive, hilarious show in which the audience gives suggestions to Island-based performers, who create scenes right on the spot. The TBD Improv group will be at venues around the Island throughout the summer season. Visit: tbdimprov.com.
Martha’s Vineyard Museum
COURESTY MV MUSEUM
Circuit Arts
Martha’s Vineyard Film Center
Immerse yourself in critically acclaimed movies and other events from the M.V. Film Society. The lineup includes feature films, documentaries, comedy shows, live music, Exhibition on Screen, Met Opera Live, National Theatre Live, and more. 79 Beach Rd, Vineyard Haven. Visit: mvfilmsociety.com or call 508-696-9369.
Local Markets
First Friday
Free community-inspired outdoor event. Celebrate the local a rt and culture of the Island each first Friday of the month. Visit: www.firstfridayvh.com. Vineyard Haven.
Sundays:
Oak Bluffs Open Market, Shop for Island-grown produce, original artwork, handmade jewelry, fine crafts, summer flowers, specialty foods, an d vintage finds in an open market near Oak Bluffs Harbor. It is like a farmers market, a ntique show, artisan fair, and a body/mind/spirit expo all in one, plus live music. Through Sept. 10 am to 2 pm. Washington Park, Oak Bluffs. For updates, visit: facebook.com/ oakbluffsopenmarket.
Sundays and Thursdays:
Vineyard Artisans Festival
Meet local artisans, buy directly from them, and see demonstrations of fine art and crafts. The handmade items to discover include furniture, pottery, stained g lass, paintings, sculpture, jewelry, quilts, handmade books, a nd much more. The market is open from 10 am to 2 pm. Grange Hall, 35 Panhandle Road, West Tisbury. Visit: vineyardartisans.com.
Wednesdays and Saturdays: West Tisbury Farmers Market
The Island’s oldest and largest farmers market features locally grown, seasonal produce, a s well as homemade bread, savory condiments, fresh honey, homemade jams, beautiful f lowers, artisan chocolates, sweet desserts, and unique gifts. It is open from 9 am to 12 pm. Grange Hall. 35 Panhandle Road, West Tisbury. V iew the list of vendors at wtfmarket.org.
Wednesdays and Saturdays:
Chilmark Flea Market
Visit the oldest outdoor flea market on the Island, offering antiques, imports, vintage finds, and high-quality handmade items from Vineyard artists and
Island beaches
Recreation
Island trails, ponds, and beaches, sunrise to sunset Hike on woodland trails, bike on paved paths, kayak across ponds, walk on the beach, and enjoy other recreational activities on the protected properties m aintained by the M.V. Land Bank, Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation, The Trustees of Reservations, Mass Audubon, the Nature Conservancy, and the state of Massachusetts. Many places have scenic overlooks, tranquil shores, footbridges, and tumbling streams. To view an Island-wide map, visit bit.ly/ mvtrails.
Morning Glory Farm
craftsmen. Discover jewelry, clothing, art, food, and much more. 9 am to 2 pm, with free entry and parking. 142 North Road, Chilmark. Visit: facebook.com/chilmarkflea.
Music Concerts
Sundays in the Park Concerts, Enjoy a seaside celebration of live music and the summer season. A concert will take place in the bandstand at Ocean Park every Sunday in the early evening. Some of the performances showcase the Vineyard H aven Band. These community events are made possible by the Oak Bluffs Parks & Recreation Department. Ocean Park, O ak Bluffs. Check the schedule at oakbluffsma.gov/181/ Parks-Commission.
Corn Shuck and Shimmy/ 50th Anniversary Celebration September 2-6. Morning Glory Farm Corn Shuck and Shimmy/50th Anniversary Celebration. Morning Glory Farm, 120 M eshacket Road, Edgartown. Visit: morninggloryfarm.com.
Morning Glory
Pumpkin Festival
Treats, games and activities, pumpkin carving, hayrides, live music, and a few new surprises. Saturday, October 19 from 10:30 am to 2:30 pm. Morning Glory Farm, 120 Meshacket Road, Edgartown. Visit: morninggloryfarm.com.
F or more events and activities on Martha’s Vineyard, check the event calendar at mvtimes.com/ things-to-do-4-2.
David Welch Photography
The annual festival harvests the best of the Island community.
Harvest day brilliance Oh, what a bounty!
BY ALLISON ROBERTS
Harvest Festival 2025 falls on Oct. 25, and runs from 9 am to 2 pm at the Ag Hall (for the uninitiated, that’s the Agricultural Society Hall, at the Fairgrounds in West Tisbury). Speaking from personal experience, it’s a must-see. Here’s a teaser: At last year’s festival, there were the Harvest Fest regulars — pumpkin carving, farm animals, a hay maze and crafts for kids, demos for adults,
a pie-baking contest, music by the Flying Elbows, and a lot more. And there were a few new activities added to the mix, including indigo dyeing, a squash toss, Cow Chip Bingo, a nd a Halloween costume swap.
Inside the Ag Hall, a variety of tables were set up with representatives from several Island organizations, including the Vineyard C onservation Society, Plant Local, and Natural Neighbors, with brochures, photos, and
i nformation about native plants and the importance of biodiversity. Slough Farm, a nonprofit educational farm and gathering place named for Slough Cove of Edgartown Great Pond, had a table, as did Mass Audubon’s Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary.
Outside the hall, a big, friendly bull named Chilmark hung out and enjoyed a good chin scratch. Right next to Chilmark, a small pen of sheep vied for attention. A little farther
Harvest Fest is an educational, fun, and sweet day you don’t want to miss.
along toward the barns, two cows named Circle and Venus posed for the paparazzi. There was an amusing activity called Cow Chip Bingo, which was a fundraiser for the Martha’s Vineyard 4-H Club. Two cows stood chowing down on grass in a fenced area. The grass beneath the cows had been painted into sections. People purchased a ticket, and if one of the cows pooped in the section they chose, they’d win a prize.
This game seemed to be quite popular with humans, but the cows appeared more interested in eating.
Speaking of eating, there were numerous yummy food truck vendors, including Ophelia’s, where you could purchase coffee, biscuits, and luscious maple soft-serve ice cream; Reunion Pizza, Just Got Smoked, M.V. Seafood Collaboration, and You Enjoy Vegan. Island Alpaca was in the house, with
tables filled with gloriously soft and warm hats, mittens, scarves, and cute stuffed alpaca ornaments. Music filled the air, and inside the information booth near the hall, people could purchase vintage fair posters, as well as Ag Hall and fair T shirts, coffee mugs, and hats. If you missed the Harvest Fest last year, make sure to get it in your calendar for this year. It’s an educational, fun, and sweet day you don’t want to miss.
1. A-maze-ing adventures with Dylan Klein. 2. Jacob Freeman: Just Hangin Out! 3. Island classic: A wagon ride with Rosa Neto. 4. Pumpkin carving is a family affair for John Atlas Lewis and his parents Melissa and Ian. 5. Regan Fisher getting ready for the costume contest.
PHOTOS: MELISSA KNOWLES
VINEYARD HAVEN
OAK BLUFFS
The Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby. BY LISA BELCASTRO
E IGHTY YEARS OF FIN- TASTIC FUN
It’s 1946.
Two brothers, Ed, 10, and Steve, 9, Amaral, joined by their parents and younger siblings (Leo, 8, and Eleanor, 7) enter the first Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass Derby. Their dad, Gus, weighs in the first bass of the first-ever Derby. Approximately 1,000 fishermen from 29 states compete for the $1,000 grand prize. It is won by Gordon Pittman of New York with a 47-pound bass. Fast-forward to 2025.
Those same two brothers, Ed Amaral, 90, and Steve Amaral, 89, both inducted into the Derby Hall of Fame, will be competing with thousands of fishermen from around the world to win the Eastern Boats 22-foot Sisu Hardtop in the 80th Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby.
Much has changed in 80 years, including the name of the event, while some things, such as hoping to catch a winning fish, will never change.
When I asked Ed, who won the Grand Leader Derby truck in 2016, what his goal was for the 80th Derby, he replied instantly, “To win. I’m out there trying just like the other 4,000 people. I fish as much as the weather and my health allow. You have to be thankful and grateful, and I am.”
Since Islanders will have just exhaled a collective breath of relaxation after nearly 100,000 visitors exited in August, it is mildly ironic to mention that the Derby began as a means to draw tourists to the Island after Labor Day. There was no shoulder season in the ’40s. The sidewalks rolled up in September, and the tourist money dried up.
Until …
Nat Sperber, a public relations specialist working for the new ferry service owned by Russell Stearns and Ralph Hornblower, approached the Martha’s Vineyard Rod and Gun Club with a promotion idea: a fall fishing competition. The M.V. Rod and Gun Club managed the
Derby through 1951, when the Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce took over the greatest event of all time.
“ What’s so great?” you ask. How much time do you have?
I love when someone, anyone, asks me about the Martha’s Vineyard
The Derby is my favorite annual event, and my favorite time of year: Derby Days. I could say it’s a fishing competition and leave it at that, but that would be erroneous … on so many levels.
Don’t get me wrong — fish are everywhere you look during the Derby, though sometimes not on the end of your line. The Derby began as solely a striped bass derby. Over the years, bluefish, weakfish, false albacore, and bonito were introduced, and sadly, striped bass have been removed multiple times.
“Bluefish were introduced as an eligible species in 1948,” said Phil Horton, Derby director-at-large.
1. Al Doyle with his grand-prize-winning 44 lb. 15 oz. bass in 1977. Doyle also landed the grand-prize winning bass (42 lb. 14 oz.) in the third Derby in 1948. 2. Three boys hold up their fish at Derby Headquarters, 1950s. 3. Wayne Coutinho standing on a fishing boat, displaying a striped bass, 1970s or 1980s. 4. Henry Cronig (L) examines a fish caught by Percy Burt (R) in 1958 5. A model wearing a sash advertising Derby sponsor Northeast Airlines poses in front of headquarters, 1957. 6. Cooper Gilkes showing off a striped bass in front of the Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce, then co-sponsors of the Derby, 1950s. 7. Gloria Norton displaying a bass at Derby Headquarters, 1955
For 32 years, bass and blues were the only fish in the Derby. In 1981, the Derby became a five-fish competition when weakfish, false albacore, and bonito were introduced. Competitors had four years when they could fish every day, all day, for any of the five fish.
When striper populations declined in the ’80s, the Derby committee voted to remove striped bass from the event. “Bass were not eligible 1985 to 1992. They were reintroduced to the Derby with restrictions (size and prizes) for the next couple of years, and fully eligible in 1995,” said Phil, who also noted that weakfish were removed permanently in 1987, and stripers were removed again in 2020.
This year, for the 80th Derby, surfcasters, fly fishermen, and boaters will be hoping to earn a Triple Crown, weighing in an albie, bonito, and bluefish. There will be little nighttime fishing, unless folks are chunking for bluefish. What you will see is shorelines, jetties, and boats filled with fishermen, casting in daylight for the speedy hardtails and head-shaking blues that are so much fun to reel in.
Through all the changes in fish species, fish sizes, and fish eligibility, attendance in the Derby grows and popularity increases.
It’s not about the fish.
Fishing is the reason for the Derby; family and friendship are the heart.
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE MARTHA’S VINEYARD MUSEUM
visitors, the 35 days of the Derby are sacred. Families and friends plan their vacations, their work schedules, and their lives around those five weeks. It’s Derby Fever, and once you catch it, you don’t ever want to lose it.
“It’s the people,” said Ed Amaral. “It was instilled in me by my parents. The Derby is the most important thing in my life other than Lois and the birth of my kids. You meet some great people, and it stays with you for a lifetime.”
Steve Morris, owner of Dick’s Bait and Tackle Shop in Oak Bluffs, knows what Ed means by a lifetime of Derby memories and family time. Steve grew up fishing with his dad and brothers, and his grandfather, Dick Morris, originally owned Dick’s Bait and Tackle Shop.
Steve fished his first Derby in 1978. Five years later, at 20 years old, Steve landed a 49.96-pound striper on his friend’s boat. At
the end of the 1983 Derby, Steve stood on stage as the overall Grand Leader.
“Back then, I was the youngest person to win the Derby,” said Steve, who won two PBA Airlines roundtrip tickets to New York, a sports jacket from Brickman’s, a Daiwa rod-andreel combo, and a bunch of tackle. “I used that rod and reel for years.”
Nearly 30 years later, Steve had the pleasure of watching his then-13-year-old son Chris claim the leaderboard in the 2007 Derby with an 11.70-pound shore bluefish. At the awards ceremony, when Chris’ key opened the lock to win a 19-foot Boston Whaler with a 115-horsepower Mercury motor and a trailer, Steve was no longer the youngest person to have won the Derby, but he was probably the proudest dad.
Four years later, Steve earned the Grand Leader title once again, this time with a 14.86-pound shore bluefish. “I won an Eastern Boats 23-foot center-console boat. It was orange. We named it the Pumpkin,” said Steve.
Steve loves the Derby, and you’ll probably find him, along with a few friends from the tackle shop, at Eastville Beach or on the O.B. fishing pier, but he misses fishing for stripers: “I’m an eel-rock-hopping, fish-all-night, work-
all-day fisherman. These days, I tend to get up early, fish for bonito and albacore, and go to work. I stay close to home to maximize my fishing time over driving time.” While Steve has won numerous and various prizes over the years, he was not one of the fortunate people who won a buildable lot in Aquinnah. Yes, you read that correctly. Eighty years ago, when land was cheaper than dirt, the Derby committee had lots to give as prizes. Can you imagine if an acre of land in Aquinnah were among the Derby prizes now? Talk about a winning lottery ticket!
If you’re a fan of those one-dollar Lotto tickets, did you know that at one point in time you could have bought the Derby for a dollar? OK, maybe not you or me, but in 1987 the Der-
by was sold for $1. Yes, you read that correctly.
“Ben [Morton, Derby chairman] called Ed Jerome. The Chamber was losing too much money. They wanted to sell the Derby. We had a lot of meetings in our kitchen,” said Cooper Gilkes, legendary fisherman and owner of Coop’s Bait and Tackle in Edgartown.
When the deal was done, and a dollar had changed hands, the Derby was waiting to become the nonprofit it is today. The three amigos — Coop, Ed Jerome, and Eddie Medeiros — sat around Coop’s table drinking coffee. “Eddie looks up and says, ‘What have we dumb?’” Coop remembers with a chuckle.
“That’s how we started. Ed was our leader. We were a group of guys who really worked hard and had fun. That was part of it. We had to have fun.”
I love listening to stories about Coop’s Derby fun, and one of my favorite stories involves my favorite vehicle: a Jeep CJ.
“We got our first Jeep, a CJ, through Bill Hawkins, a customer at the tackle shop,” said Coop. “We had to raffle it off, we couldn’t give it away. We — Arthur Winters, Ed, Gordon Ditchfield, Porky Francis, Eddie, and me — took it to the Worcester Fishing Expo. I went to check in, and the guy said, ‘I don’t have you on the list. You don’t have a booth.’ I’m thinking, ‘Oh my goodness.’ I had the paperwork, so the guy says, ‘What about if you park the Jeep by the front door?’
“Ed had brought two rolls of raffle tickets. That first night, we sold both rolls of tickets. We went back to the hotel so excited.” Coop pauses, and grins. “I see Arthur sitting in the corner thinking. I ask him what’s up. He tells me he thinks Ed left the money in the Jeep in the back seat. Arthur takes a walk, but doesn’t say anything to Ed.
“The next morning, we’re having breakfast, and Ed jumps up and runs down to the Jeep.
cony watching. Ed’s searching through the Jeep, panicking. He looks up. Arthur goes, ‘Hey Ed, April Fool’s.’ We laughed so hard.”
The guys bought two more rolls of tickets, and made a bundle of money off that first Jeep, which they used to fund the Derby and the Derby prizes. During the growing years, they bought prizes, they begged for prizes, and they borrowed for prizes. And the Derby grew. Ed Jerome, an Island teacher and principal, initiated a scholarship fund for graduating MVRHS students. To date, the Derby has donated more than $1 million in scholarships.
Like his best friend Ed, Coop also wanted
It’s not about the fish. Fishing is the reason for the Derby; family and friendship are the heart.
to focus on children. For all the awards that Coop has won and all the fish that he has caught, and all the fishermen he has taught, Coop and his wife Lela’s greatest Derby legacy will have to be the free Kid’s Derby. If you’re on-Island on Sunday, Sept. 21, wake up early and get down to the O.B. Steamship dock by 6 am to watch children of all ages fishing for top prizes. It’s a shot of joy you don’t want to miss! Honestly, you don’t want to miss any of the Derby. Stop by Derby Headquarters any morning between 8 and 10 am, or any evening between 7 and 9 pm, and take in some of the magic. You’ll see friends cheering as their fishing buddy weighs in a first fish; you’ll hear the shouts when a new leader tips the scales; you’ll watch as lucky fishermen pick up their daily pins and attach them to their Derby hat.
If you’re fishing the Derby, I’ll see you on the beach. I’ll be soaking up every moment, and hoping you’re having as much fun as I am. When we’ve fished all that we can and the
1. Young fishermen crowd Oak Bluffs Wharf on Kids' Day, 1980s or 1990s.
2. Four-time grand-prize winner Serge de Somov, affectionately nicknamed “The Count” and “The Mad Russian,” shows off a bass at Derby headquarters in the 1960s
3. Man fishing from a rocky beach with a baby in a backpack carrier, 1980s or 1990s.
4. Winthrop B. “Sonny” Norton relaxes beside his beach buggy while waiting for a bite, early 1960s. 5. Three fishermen take a break from the beach to share a tailgate lunch, early 1960s. 6. (L to R) Steve Gentle, Leo Convery, and Nelson Smith show off the results of a night’s fishing on the dock at Edgartown, 1950s or 1960s. 7. Clayton Hoyle with an oldschool surfcasting rod and reel he designed and built himself, 1940s-50s.
35 days have come to a close on Saturday, October 18, at 9 pm, let’s meet at the Awards Ceremony and watch the final six casts.
The key ceremony is the last catch of the Derby. The 80th Derby will see six fishermen onstage, each holding a coveted, well-earned key for their Grand Leader fish. Ed Amaral, Coop Gilkes, Phil Horton, Steve Morris, or Steve Amaral might be onstage. You and I and my teammate Dave Balon might be up there with them.
We’ll all be holding keys.
The scene will be intense. The tension will be palpable. Our hands and knees will be shaking.
One of the six keys will open a lock to the Grand Leader Eastern Boats Sisu.
After 35 days of fishing, it all comes down to one last cast. Everyone waits, breath held, for the telltale sound of a lock clicking open.
When a fish hits and the excitement shoots through our veins as we listen to our reel peel, we hope it’s a Derby winner.
When the sound of the lock clicking open echoes throughout the tent and across the grounds of Farm Neck Golf Club, everyone knows it’s a Derby winner. Shouts erupt, tears of joy flow, hugs and clapping abound. Another Derby in the books. Priceless memories to relive throughout the cold winter.
When the afterparties end, and I’m home with a full heart and dirty fishing gear, Dave will once again text me: “328 days, 3 hours, 37 minutes #justsaying.”
Some things never change.
Derby Fever counts the minutes until the next opening bell goes off.
I hope to see you on the beach during the 80th Derby, or at Derby headquarters, where I’m weighing in a fish a couple of ounces bigger than yours.
For more information on the 80th Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby, or to register online, go to mvderby.com.
Oak Bluffs bursts with creativity. Strolling among its galleries, within easy walking distance of each other, is a glorious way to spend a few hours.
“It’s more than a gallery” is Zita Cousens’ motto for her Cousen Rose Gallery (71 Upper Circuit Ave., open Tuesday through Sunday). Founded in 1980, Cousen Rose showcases many artists associated with the Vineyard. Find the special exhibit by Robert Freeman, who works in oils; his work is in the MFA Boston collection, and he is resident artist at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston. Meg Black paints with abacá, a fiber from the inner bark of the banana tree. “Abacá creates the textural surface in my work, which mimics the feel and wonder of the natural world,” says the artist. Photographer Deb Loeb Bohren employs her camera as a paintbrush to create luscious abstractions. “Intentional camera movement and multiple exposures, layering up to nine exposures into a single image in-camera, are the primary tools of my alchemy,” she writes.
Robert Fitzgerald combines beeswax, pigment, and tree sap to create encaustic images of the Island. Bricque Garber fashions abstract assemblages by incorporating bits of paper and textured objects along with paint. Magi
Art lovers are in for a treat
The Oak Bluffs Arts Stroll
BY ABBY REMER
Leland states, “I am a scavenger on the hunt for inspiring subjects to paint,” referring to her Vineyard oil paintings. Robin Gottesman’s drone photographs of the Vineyard capture the solitude of nature from various heights. Rayhart’s vibrant acrylics balance abstraction and realism. The broad spectrum of other talented artists includes Jo-Ann Acey (Flashe and gouache), Ekua Holmes (collage), E.B. Lewis (watercolors), and Glenn Tunstull (oils on canvas), and Joseph Holston (etching). A limited collection of work by two deceased artists, Romare Bearden and Eliz-
Oak Bluffs galleries from top left: Alison Shaw, Cousen Rose, Knowhere Art Gallery, Michael Blanchard.
abeth Catlett, round out the collection.
Alison Shaw’s evocatively alluring photographs of the sea and land celebrate the Island’s unique beauty. Sue Dawson, co-owner of Alison Shaw Photography (88 Dukes County Ave.), remarks, “We just realized that this is the 20th summer at the gallery. It’s also the 50th anniversary of Alison’s shooting on Martha’s Vineyard.” As such, visitors will find many of Shaw’s legacy works and some of her latest photographs, reflecting her ever-evolving vision from black-and-white editorial shots for the Vineyard Gazette to her current focus on color and abstract compositions. Shaw never tires of the Vineyard as a subject.
“Living and working on such a small island forces me to go deeper ... Here, surrounded by water, my territory is defined. This translates to almost a physical need to keep evolving, to grow as an artist, and to see ever deeper and wider. If I didn’t evolve as an artist, I’d get bored, and the creative spark would disappear. On the Island, it’s not about finding a new environment, as fun and adventurous as that can be. It’s about finding something within myself.”
Michael Blanchard opened the Crossroads Gallery (93 Dukes County Ave.) in 2017. Photography and the Vineyard are intimately intertwined with the artist’s well-being. “Photography, for me, is therapeutic,” says Blanchard. “I focus on Martha’s Vineyard, which I consider my home in addition to a place of residence. The first day I set foot on the Island, I felt
a spiritual connection, and didn’t understand why — but later would learn. After a catastrophic collapse in 2010, my family, the Island, and photography have been the keys to my recovery and sobriety of over eight years.” Blanchard practices a meditative form of contemplative photography known as Miksang, which means “good eye” in Tibetan. “When I make it to a Vineyard location at four in the morning to catch the sunrise, I use the camera and the moment to clear all problems of daily life and experience each sense to the fullest. Capturing the images of those moments becomes an expression of the happiness and serenity I feel in the absence of alcohol.” The sense of joy and wonder at nature’s bounty permeates Blanchard’s glorious images of the land, sea, and wildlife.
The Knowhere Art Gallery (91 Dukes County Ave.) will close for the season on Sept. 7, but its sister gallery, the Center of Knowhere (73 Circuit Ave.) will remain open Wednesday through Sunday through the end of September. Director Valerie Francis and co-founder and CEO Ralph Groce continue to exhibit “Women Rising” and “Living Off the Wall” with events, and encourage visitors to check knowhereart.com for details.
“Women Rising ... Where Women Gather, Power IS!” is a show that highlights the transformative strength of women when they unite in support and solidarity. The art explores the profound power that emerges when women share space, stories, and creative energy. It also celebrates the diversity of these experiences, showcasing both the personal and political aspects of the journey toward gender equity and liberation. “Living Off the Wall” celebrates murals’ transformative power, featuring outstanding muralists who translate their large-scale public art into gallery settings with compelling narratives and artistic expressions.
galleries, museums, & public gardens
galleries, museums, & public gardens
From the Arts District in Oak Bluffs to the walking trails at Island Folk Pottery, to the Tom Maley sculptures at Field Gallery, there are plenty of public gardens, galleries, and museums to explore. If you haven’t taken a trip to the Mytoi Japanese-style garden on Chappaquiddick, it is
Y = Year-round
S = Seasonal
EDGARTOWN
S A Gallery
41 Main Street, Edgartown, 917-378-0662; agallerymv.com.
Y The Christina Gallery
5 Winter St., 508-627-8794; christina.com.
Y Edgartown Art Gallery 27 South Summer St., 508-627-5991; edgartownartgallery.com.
Y Eisenhauer Gallery 38 North Water St., 508-627-7003; eisenhauergallery.com.
S Mikel Hunter 11 Winter St., Nevin Square; mikelhunter.com.
Y Mytoi Japanese-Style Garden 41 Dike Rd., Chappaquiddick, 508-627-7689; thetrustees.org/place/mytoi.
Y North Water Gallery 27 North Water St., 508-627-6002; northwatergallery.com.
S Old Sculpin Gallery 58 Dock St., 508-627-4881; oldsculpingallery.org.
OAK BLUFFS
S Alison Shaw Gallery 88 Dukes County Ave., 508-696-7429; alisonshaw.com.
S Center of Knowhere 73 Circuit Ave., 917-960-9344; knowhereart.com
S Cousen Rose Gallery 71 Circuit Ave., 508-693-6656; cousenrose.com.
S Crossroads Gallery 93 Dukes County Ave., 617-448-3934; blanchardphotomv.com.
S Galaxy Gallery Remote Only, 508-693-5444; galaxygallery.org.
Y Featherstone Center for the Arts 30 Featherstone Ln., off Barnes Road, 508-693-1850; featherstoneart.org.
S Knowhere Art Gallery 91 Dukes County Ave., 917-960-9344; knowhereart.com.
Y Mariposa Museum & World Cultural Center 57 Circuit Ave., 603-400-5440; mariposamuseum.org.
S Harry Seymour Studio 66 Pond View Dr., 413-531-1084; hseymour.artspan.com.
Y Washington Ledesma Studio 5 Murrant Ave., 508-693-1823; washingtonledesmamv.com.
VINEYARD HAVEN
S 51art gallery 13 Beach Road Ext., 212-585-4499; theshoppewiththereddoor.com.
S Althea Designs [1]Print 34 Beach Rd., 807-777-5137; altheadesigns.com.
Y Amy Cash Gallery 30 Main St., 508-338-7951; amycashgallery.com.
worth the trip. Walking through the galleries in downtown Edgartown and Vineyard Haven are other options. Here are a few of our favorite places.
Y Blue Fathom Gallery 58 Main St., 508-687-9338.
Y Louisa Gould Gallery 54 Main St., 508-693-7373; louisagould.com.
Y Martha’s Vineyard Museum 151 Lagoon Pond Rd., 508-627-4441; mvmuseum.org.
Y Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse Art Space 24 Church St., 508-696-6300; mvplayhouse.org.
S Michael Johnson’s Photo Studio 34A Main St., 415-238-7572; michaeljimage.com.
S Night Heron Gallery 58 Main St., 508-696-9500; nightherongallery.com.
S Workshop Gallery 32 Beach Rd., 774-353-6414; facebook.com/theworkshopmv.
UP-ISLAND
S Allen Whiting-Davis House Gallery 985 State Rd., West Tisbury, 508-693-4691; allenwhiting.com.
Let us know if we don’t have your favorite Vineyard gallery, museum, or public garden listed here, andwe’ll do our best to add it to the next Vineyard Visitor. Send us a line at vineyardvisitor@mvtimes.com.
Passenger only, service between Hyannis and Oak Bluffs and Nantucket through October.
Island Queen 508-548-4800; islandqueen.com
Passenger only, departs from Falmouth and Oak Bluffs.
Menemsha Bike Ferry North Rd., 508-645-5154. Passengers and bikes. Seasonal service between Menemsha and West Basin, Aquinnah.
MV Tours and Transport 508-939-1359; mvtransportandtours.com Patriot 508-548-2626; Year-round, passenger service between Falmouth and Oak Bluffs.
Seastreak
1 Seaview Ave., 1-800-262-8743; seastreak.com. Seasonal, passenger only, service between Boston, New Bedford, and Martha’s Vineyard. Steamship Authority
Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven, 508-693-9130; steamshipauthority.com. Year-round, vehicles and passengers, service between Woods Hole and Martha’s Vineyard. Vineyard Fast Ferry 401-295-4040; vineyardfastferry.com
Passenger only, service between Quonset Point, Rhode Island and Oak Bluffs from May to October.
How the real Martha’s Vineyard made it to Hollywood. BY MV TIMES STAFF
It’s been 50 years since Steven Spielberg’s “Jaws” took over Martha’s Vineyard and transformed it into Amity Island. The filming of “Jaws” took place from May through October of 1974. Back then, the real Vineyard was a much simpler place. The yearround population, of only about 4,800, swelled with tourists and
seasonal residents as it does now, but on a much smaller scale. The makers of “Jaws” got that tension between the summer tourist season and the year-round locals who need to sustain themselves long after the summer crowds have packed up and gone: A great white shark could indeed kill a summer.
But 50 years ago, in late April, Universal Studios, with a mech-
anized shark named Bruce, was actually pouring money into local coffers to make the movie. The making of “Jaws” could even be considered the Vineyard’s Hollywood close-up, putting the Island on the map across America and around the world.
L ocals lucky enough to become extras were getting up to $150 a day as cast members. When the
word went out that they needed “a powerful swimmer willing to swim nude” as Chrissie Watkins in the opening shark attack scene, Susan Backlinie stepped up. In that scene, ominous music builds, and to this day it haunts the minds of just about anyone who has seen “Jaws.” Universal spent big that summer of ’74: $700,000 (1974 dollars) for
Kids fleeing the water in response to a prank played by two boys with a floating shark fin.
EDIE BLAKE
the marketing budget alone for the nationwide release. “Jaws” opened in more than 400 theaters, and its global receipts were over $2.8 billion in today’s dollars. Martha’s Vineyard, a real place with real people, was on the map, and Amity Island, a fictitious place named for a town on Long Island, was born. Turning the lens on local people and their impact, the Martha’s Vineyard Museum started the season off with their own “Jaws at 50,” which opened on May 24 and closes Sept. 7. The exhibit features rare photographs, oral histories, original art, and movie props, and celebrates many of the onscreen and behind-the-scenes Islanders. “We really want this exhibit to be seen through the lens of the Island,” said M.V. Museum Curator of Exhibitions Anna Barber. “This is where it happened. This is
Ground Zero, and I hope that all the people who come leave with a better understanding of how the magic of that movie could not have occurred without the Island and its people.”
The film’s casting crew set up shop in the Kelley House in March 1974, and offered Ozzie Fischer, a Chilmark farmer, a role he turned down, later saying, “I was running the Keith farm” in Chilmark. Local photojournalist Jini Poole, wife of Menemsha fish retailer Everett Poole, was hired to assist Shari Rhodes, the “Jaws” casting director.
Jini cast much of the movie, with Islander Peggy Scott as Polly, Chief Brody’s office manager. T he real-life Dr. Robert Nevin was cast as the medical examiner; Hershel West, longtime fisherman and hand at Larsen’s in Menemsha, played Quint’s deckhand. Robert Carroll was
the Amity town selectman. Poole also cast her father-in-law, Captain Donald L. Poole, and John A lley, of Alley’s General Store fame, as well as her own children, Katharine and Donald, for
the movie, according to the Vineyard Gazette at the time.
The first week of May 1974, “Jaws” was set for filming. It was cold, and Spielberg and his team were shooting scenes slated
PHOTOS EDITH BLAKE
Onlookers in 1974 catching glimpses of “Jaws” filming in Edgartown.
Onlookers in 1974 catching glimpses of “Jaws” filming in Edgartown.
“Jaws” opened in over 400 theaters, and its global receipts were over $2.8 billion in today’s dollars. Martha’s Vineyard, a real place with real people, was on the map, and Amity Island, a fictitious place named for a town on Long Island, was born.
to look like hot summer days. For one scene, Chrissie Watkins’ arm and hand stuck up out of the sand, with seaweed and crabs crawling over it. And, out of sight, the owner of the arm lay on the sand, cold, in a sleeping bag.
Gerald Kelly wrote, “The prop man ... poured warm coffee on the crabs ... They wriggled ... People joked ... Can a severed arm have goose bumps?”
Those Technicolor summer scenes had locals shivering offset, and a bit steamed about the process. John Alley, playing an
extra who walked ahead of Chief Brody on a dock, one day had had enough of the cold and quit.
The opening shark attack scene starts with a classic Vineyard tradition of a nighttime fire on the beach, with long-haired teens playing guitar and drinking beer. Then it cuts to glances, flirtation, and Chrissie running easily across a dune, with Tom Cassidy (played by seasonal resident Jonathan Filley) stumbling behind. T hen to surprising nudity, Chrissie diving in and swimming, the water glistening in moonlight.
And then it begins: the menacing music that would live forever in the minds of all of us who have seen “Jaws.” Then screams, Chrissie being dragged back and forth across the screen — and silent disappearance.
Then there’s poor Alex Kintner. He only asked his mom if he could go in the water one last time. He’s the second human to die in “Jaws,” just after the black Lab Pippin disappears. In real life, Kintner was played by Jeffrey Vorhees. Vorhees is the long-serving and recently retired manager of the Wharf in Edgartown.
This June, the entire Island was obsessed with honoring a half-century of Jaws. Among the many, many events, the Wharf presented the “‘Jaws’ 50th Anniversary Celebration.” A full-scale model of the Orca was docked at Nancy’s in Oak Bluffs, with
its lifesize model of a great white shark mounted outside. In Katama on June 21, the “Jaws”’ musical score, by John Williams, played live under the stars by the Cape Symphony, accompanying an outdoor “Jaws” screening. It was the kind of immersive cultural experience that rekindles memories of youthful beach fires of decades past.
The big celebration of a significant, and in some ways transformative, moment in Vineyard history wouldn’t have happened without locals, without beaches, without the ocean around us, and without sharks. It would all have been a passing summer, on a tranquil and beautiful Island off the coast of Massachusetts. But it did happen, because this Island was this Island, seven miles from the mainland dock in Woods Hole.
Steven Spielberg, on set, directing “Jaws.”
Filming “Jaws” in 1974.
“JAWS” 50th
Don’t say goodbye to summer before saying hello to these iconic sites.
Menemsha
Captain Quint (Robert Shaw) and his shark-chumming boat, the Orca, fished out of Menemsha. In this scene, the boat is being pulled backward by “Bruce,” the stage name for the “Jaws” shark.
2
Aquinnah
This scene was filmed near the Aquinnah lighthouse, even though it was depicted as South Beach. Mayor Vaughn (Murray Hamilton) resists closing beaches despite the pleas of Police Chief Martin Brody (Roy Scheider) and oceanographer Matt Hooper (Richard Dreyfuss).
3 Then Now
East Chop Drive
East Chop Drive in Oak Bluffs. Not much has changed.
AQUINNAH
CHILMARK North Tisbury
MENEMSHA
“Jaws Bridge”
Some call it “Jaws Bridge,” but if you live around here, you know it’s Big Bridge. Did you know it was reconstructed about 35 years ago? Today’s Big Bridge sits about 17 inches higher than it did in the film.
In a scene from the movie under the “Jaws Bridge,” actor Chris Rebello, who played Michael Brody, was terrified from the sight of Jaws.
Edgartown Harbor
Captain Quint (Robert Shaw) and his boat, the Orca, passing through Edgartown Harbor. That’s the Edgartown Lighthouse in the back. The one pictured is Orca 1, but another one was made out of fiberglass, and is used in all the scenes where the ship is sinking or getting wrecked by Bruce, the 24-foot mechanical shark.
Katama
Susan Backlinie responded to a casting call for a “strong woman swimmer willing to swim nude.” In the opening scene she goes for a moonlight swim and is devoured by the shark. Her hand and arm, complete with seaweed and climbing crabs, are found in a dune on South Beach in Katama.
Backlinie died May 11, 2024, at age 77.
Chappaquiddick Ferry
Ah, the Chappy Ferry. Still kickin’. These shots are from the Chappy side, looking toward Memorial Wharf in Edgartown.
Chappaquiddick
things to do
ARCADE GAMES
Flying Horses Carousel
15 Oak Bluffs Ave., Oak Bluffs, 508-693-9481, vineyardtrust.org/property/flying-horses-carousel
The Game Room
19 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs, 508-687-9179, ryanfamily.com
AVIATION
Classic Aviators
Biplane rides at Katama Airfield, Edgartown, 508-627-7677, biplanemv.com
14 Aero Ave., Edgartown, 508-627-7007, f arminstitute.org
Whippoorwill Farm
Old County Rd., West Tisbury, 774-563-8197, whippoorwillfarm.com
FIGURE SKATING & HOCKEY
Martha’s Vineyard Ice Arena at YMCA of M.V. 91 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Rd., Oak Bluffs, 508-693-5329, ymcamv.org/mv-ice-arena
HIKING & BIKING
Manuel F. Correllus State Forest
Trails and paved paths in a 5,300-acre forest in the middle of the Island. 508-693-2540
bit.ly/mvforest
Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank
Over 70 properties with hiking or biking trails, ponds for kayaking, and beaches. 508-627-7141, mvlandbank.com
Mass Audubon’s Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary
100 Felix Neck Dr., Edgartown, 508-627-4850, massaudubon.org/felixneck
The Nature Conservancy
Hoft Farm Preserve in West Tisbury and David H. Smith Preserve in Edgartown, nature.org
Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation
Over 20 properties for hiking or biking, plus beaches or water views. 508-693-5207, sheriffsmeadow.org
The Trustees of Reservations
Menemsha Hills, Long Point Wildlife Refuge, FARM Institute, Norton Point Beach, Wasque, Mytoi Garden, and Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge. 508-693-7662, thetrustees.org
HORSEBACK RIDING
Arrowhead Farm
174 Indian Hill Rd., West Tisbury, 508-693-8831, arrowheadfarm.net
Misty Meadows Equine Learning Center
55 Misty Meadows Ln., West Tisbury, 508-338-7198, mistymeadowsmv.org
Pond View Farm
New Lane, West Tisbury, 508-693-2949, facebook.com/pondviewfarmmv
White Stone Equestrian
85 Red Pony Farm Rd., West Tisbury. 774-563-0220, whitestonemv.com
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Woodland Variety & Grill in Vineyard Haven is an Island local favorite.
BY DAVE PLATH
Father and daughter team, owner Rob Baker and Brittany Stinemire run Woodland Variety & Grill with friendly efficiency.
PHOTOS: DAVE PLATH
If you know, you know.
There are places on Martha’s Vineyard that feel like secrets — shared through word of mouth between locals, and rarely publicized. (Like where to score a dozen farm-fresh eggs bought on the honor system –– Blackwater Farm.)
Woodland Variety & Grill in Vineyard Haven is such a place. It’s not flashy, it doesn’t sit on a harbor, and you won’t find a long line of tourists waiting outside. But step inside, and you’ll d iscover something deeply satis-
fying: good food, friendly faces, a nd prices that feel refreshingly out of step with the majority of the Island.
Originally opened in the 1980s at 455 State Road, Woodland started as a traditional variety store — part deli, part convenience stop, part coffee counter
— where you could grab a sandwich, shop for essentials, sip coffee, and play Keno all in one stop.
Over the years, it quietly evolved into a no-frills diner-style eatery, beloved by contractors, commuters, and anyone who appreciated a good meal without a lot of fuss.
Since 1995, it has been run by Rob Baker, who helped transform it into a full-service breakfast and
“Rob will cater to any request you like — if you ask for it, they will make it.”
–AARON BOYE, HOLMES HOLE CONSTRUCTION
lunch destination, with 20 tables and an unmistakably local vibe.
“If you’re looking for a particular contractor,” jokes Rob’s daughter Brittany, now part of the business, “I can probably tell you what time and day they’ll be here.” Regulars are greeted by name. Orders are remembered. It’s like the television show “Cheers”: Everybody knows your name.
Owner Rob Baker exemplifies service with a smile.
Lunch is always a busy affair filled with locals on their lunch break.
Just the right kind of basic
Woodland’s charm lies in its simplicity. It’s down-to-earth and — possibly unique for the Island — you can leave with both your belly and your wallet full. On an Island where a basic lunch can eas-
“If you’re looking for a particular contractor, I can probably tell you what time and day they’ll be here.” –BRITTANY STINEMIRE
ily exceed $20, Woodland Variety & Grill remains a rare exception. Here, you can still grab a bagel for under $4, an egg sandwich for under $6, or a thick, juicy burger for less than $10 — chips included.
Favorites include:
The Pilgrim – Roasted turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and mayo ($10.99)
Courtney’s Club – Turkey, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and mayo in a wrap ($10.99)
Meatball Sub – Marinara and provolone on a toasted roll ($13.99)
Steak Pizziola – Shaved steak, marinara, and provolone ($13.99)
In addition to an impressive breakfast/lunch/sandwich menu, there’s also a rotating daily special or two.
Island-rooted, community-focused
Woodland Variety & Grill is open seven days a week, Monday through Saturday, from 6 a m to 5 pm, and Sundays from 7 am to 3 pm. Orders are placed at the counter, and the service is always warm, efficient, and familiar. Dine in, take out, or simply linger with a coffee and a newspaper — the pace is yours to choose. Whether you’re craving a casual conversation and a f resh, hot cup of coffee, or a
hearty meal at the beginning, middle, or end of your day, Woodland is a go-to haven for the Vineyard faithful.
For longtime residents, Woodland is a staple. For seasonal visitors, it’s an opportunity to experience a more grounded, authentic side of the Island, where the food is good, the prices are kind, the welcome is always as warm as a bowl of clam chowdah, and the sandwiches come with a bag of chips. Hence, it really is all that and a bag of chips!
To my fellow Vineyarders who already know and love it — apologies for letting the secret out. To everyone else — you’re welcome!
Chef Stacey Hamilton minding the tickets on the grill.
Woodland wings served hot and fresh.
A healthy menu board also includes daily specials.
Steve Carlson enjoying his lunch break.
A fresh and thick chicken sandwich.
On a gloriously sunny September morning recently, my husband and I decided to start our day off with breakfast from the Moglo (Morning Glory Farm) food truck. We’re both fans of the Morning Glory Farm Store. In the winter we can’t wait to get their chicken pot pie and zucchini bread. As a matter of fact, it can be downright dangerous to go there hungry. Their breads, baked goods, fruits, and vegetables are always fresh and delicious.
We arrived around 9 am, and were the first in line. We both decided to get an egg, cheddar, and bacon sandwich on an English muffin. While our sandwiches were being made, we headed inside to get coffee. Morning Glory has a self-serve coffee station with freshly made regular, decaf, and flavored coffee, and a variety of teas. They also provide cream and milk, and almond milk for those who do better with less dairy, as well as honey, sugar, and stevia. I decided to live life on the edge and combine a little flavored coffee with my decaf. The folks at Morning Glory know a thing or two about food and humans. Sitting right next to the coffee station are baskets filled with freshly baked goods and a variety of bread. Did we partake? Of course — grabbed a cheese biscuit, a Morning Glory Muffin, and a loaf of sourdough to enjoy later.
THESUNNY JOYOF AN EGGSAN DWICH
but not burned, cheese melted but not gushy. They also added a little spring mix on top of the egg and bacon, which I loved. One of my favorite ways to serve eggs at home is on a bed of arugula. The slightly bitter bite of greens, mixed with the saltiness of the bacon and sweetness of the cheddar, is always a tasty combination.
Morning Glory staff know athing ortwo about food and humans.
BY ALLISON ROBERTS
“When I looked down, my sandwich was gone — just like summer. I momentarily felt a pang of sadness. Until I remembered to appreciate the simple deliciousness of what I just ate.”
– ALLISON ROBETS
Our sandwiches were ready by the time we came back out, and we grabbed one of the picnic tables near the food truck. Egg sandwiches may be considered simple, but they aren’t all created equal. I’ve had my share of bad ones — soggy bread, hard eggs, droopy bacon. Morning Glory’s are on point: egg medium but not overcooked, bacon crispy
We sat in the sun, ate our sandwiches, sipped our coffee, and talked about the change of seasons. “We don’t really acknowledge the change of seasons,” my husband said, as a bit of a cool breeze blew my napkin across the table. “We’re a ll so quick to complain about summer ending. Winter can get old for sure, but so can long, hot afternoons. Other seasons are pretty great in their own way — coming home from work when it’s cold out and walking into our cozy house, spending time inside doing artwork, reading, going outside to see how t he landscape has changed. We should come up with our own way of marking the changes of the seasons.”
I had to agree. “Maybe we can write down some things we loved about this past summer and then burn them — acknowledging them, but then letting them go,” I said, eager for another bite of sandwich. But when I looked down, my sandwich was gone — just like summer. I momentarily felt a pang of sadness. Until I remembered to appreciate the simple deliciousness of what I just ate, who I was spending my morning with, and where I was in that moment filled with sunshine. Plus, we still had a Morning Glory Muffin and a cheese biscuit waiting for us.
Morning Glory Farm, located in Edgartown.
The Morning Glory Food Truck (location: Morning Glory Farm) is open Wednesday through Friday, 8:30 am to 2:30 pm. Please check hours, as they may change seasonally. To learn more about Morning Glory Farm, visit morninggloryfarm.com.
Coffee and flowers
PHOTOS: ALLISON ROBERTS
Moglo food truck
The abundance of wild g rapevines that once overtook this Island was how Martha’s Vineyard got its name. Now the Island is celebrated not only for its rugged beauty, but also for the fruitful ideas and the robust events that form our own unique terroir. That is a word and a concept deeply engrained in French food and wine culture. “Terroir” directly translates to “soil,” but more so refers to the idea that the specific combination of natural and human factors in a particular location contribute to the unique flavor and character of what is produced there. This concept represents exactly what the Grapevine newsletter encapsulates: the flavors of our Island, the roots of who we are, and the ways we come together.
Welcome (back) to the Grapevine
From early powwows of the native Wampanoag tribe to the hosting of pivotal discussions through the civil rights movement, to the sailing regattas and the fishing Derby, from family reunions in Oak Bluffs to sunset clambakes in Menemsha, the Island has always had a way of pulling people together in community.
I n fact, The Martha’s Vineyard Times was itself the product of people coming together: f ive local businessmen who gathered in 1984 and founded a new approach to Vineyard journalism. The Times was a sort of c ontinuation of the Grapevine –– a weekly tabloid edited (and
A new newsletter to bolster our sense of community. BY JENNA SYLVIA
often written) by Gerald Kelly. Kelly, who was well-known for his incredible depth of writing and fundamental belief in the importance of local journalism, went on to write for The MV Times. He continued telling the stories of the Vineyard, often challenging local journalistic norms, a tradition The Times
carries to this day.
Now we fast-forward to the present-day Martha’s Vineyard landscape: still wild and beautiful, and still finding unique ways to weave people together. So in celebration of who we are, how we gather, and where it all began, The MV Times is reviving The Grapevine. The forces
‘The forces behind this corner of local journalism have long preserved the stories of every branch of our community –– like vines twisting us together in different bunches, from the roots of the year-rounders to the fruits of the seasonal visitors.’
behind this corner of local journalism have long preserved the stories of every branch of our community –– like vines twisting us together in different bunches, from the roots of the year-rounders to the fruits of the seasonal visitors. Each month, The Grapevine will chronicle our local events and provide a comprehensive guide of happenings to come. From the historic and large-scale traditions such as Grand Illumination Night and the Oak Bluffs Fireworks, to the lesser-known porch concerts and roundtable discussions, we will cover and commemorate gatherings of all kinds. We will also spotlight local vendors working in hospitality, to celebrate the people who create an enormous industry in a relatively small place. And like any good get-together should have, there will be a culinary component as well, a piquant section dedicated to restaurants, recipes, and all things nosh.
The preservation and diversification of local journalism c ontinues to be the driving force of The Martha’s Vineyard Times. This revival of The G rapevine will pay homage to current events, celebrations, and culture, while also honoring the historical components of who we are and how we came to be. Because after all, The Grapevine is a perfect metaphor for that thing which grows out of the soil of this Island: our terroir. The Grapevine is what grows and twists its way forward toward the light, always we aving us together.
When you become a member of The MV Times family, you’ll become part of our, shall we say, terroir.
dining
From an on-the-go meal to a topnotch fine dining experience, we’ve got you covered. The Island must-haves — a lobster roll, bowl of chowder, local oysters, or a fresh fish sandwich are all available not only seasonally but year-round as well. And
Y = Year-round
S = Seasonal
AQUINNAH
S Aquila Coffee House 17 Aquinnah Circle.
S Cliffhangers Aquinnah Circle, 508-955-9163.
S The Gay Head Store 33 Aquinnah Circle, 508-955-9142.
Y Orange Peel Bakery & Pizza 22 State Rd., 508-645-2025; orangepeelbakery.net.
S The Outermost Inn 81 Lighthouse Rd., 508-645-3511; outermostinn.com.
S Chilmark General Store 7 State Rd., 508-645-3739; chilmarkgeneralstore.com.
S Chilmark Tavern 1435 State Rd., 508-645-9400; chilmarktavern.com.
S Homeport 512 North Rd., 508-645-2679; homeportmv.com.
S Larsen’s Fish Market 56 Basin Rd., 508-645-2680; larsensfishmarket.com.
S Menemsha Fish Market 54 Basin Rd., 508-645-2282; menemshafishmarket.net.
S Menemsha Galley 515 North Rd., 508-645-9819; menemshagalley.com.
if you’re in the mood for a good bucket of fried chicken, we have that too. Visit listed websites for menus, hours, reservations, and takeout options. Let us know if we don’t have your favorite restaurant here, and we will do our best to add it to the next issue of Vineyard Visitor.
EDGARTOWN
S 19 Prime Cast Iron Steakhouse
19 Church St., 774-224-0550; 19primesteak.com.
S 19 Raw Oyster Bar 19 Church St., 774-224-0550; 19rawoysterbar.com.
Y Alchemy
71 Main St., 508-627-9999; alchemyedgartown.com.
Y Al’s Package Store
258 Upper Main St., 508-627-4347.
S Among the Flowers Café 17 Mayhew Ln., 508-627-3233.
S Atlantic Fish and Chop House 2 Main St., 508-627-7001; atlanticmv.com.
S Atria
137 Main St., 508-627-5850; atriamv.com.
S Bad Martha’s Brewery 270 Upper Main St., 508-939-4415; badmarthabeer.com
S Behind the Bookstore 46 Main St., 774-549-9123; btbmv.com.
S Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium 22 Dock St., 508-939-4069; benandbillsmv.com.
S Bettini Restaurant
131 North Water St., Harbor View Hotel, 508-627-3761; harbor-view.com.
S Blackbird Café 19 North Water St., 978-263-7722; myblackbirdcafe.com.
S Blackbird Chappaquiddick Food Truck 219 Chappaquiddick Rd., 978-263-7722; myblackbirdcafe.com.
S Black Sheep 17 Airport Rd., 508-338-7770; blacksheeponmv.com
S Chesca’s 38 North Water Street, 508-627-1234; chescasmv.com.
Y China House Restaurant
234 Upper Main St., 508-627-7272.
S The Covington
52 Main St., 508-627-7678; thecovingtonrestaurant.com.
Y Sweet Bites 32 Beach St., 508-684-8585; sweetbitesmv.com.
S The Maker Pasta Shop & Cafe 339 State Rd., 508-687-9794; themakerpastashop.com/
Y MV Tap
13 Beach St., instagram.com/mvtapbar
S Tisberry Frozen Yogurt 29 Main St., 508-687-9314; tisberrymv.com.
Y Vineyard Caribbean Cuisine 13 Beach St., 508-338-4094.
Y Vineyard Grocer 294 State Rd., 508-693-2000; vineyardgrocer.com.
Y Waterside Market 82 Main St., 508-693-8899; watersidemarket.com.
Y Wolf’s Den Pizza 45 Beach Rd., 508-687-9112; wolfsdenmv.com.
Y Woodland Variety & Grill 455 State Rd., Woodland Marketplace, 508693-6795; woodlandvarietyandgrill.com.
WEST TISBURY
S 7a Foods 1045 State Rd., 508-693-4636; 7afoods.com.
Y Alley’s General Store 1045 State Rd., 508-693-0088.
Y Cronig’s Market 469 Upper State Rd., 508-693-2234; cronigsmarket.com.
Y Plane View Restaurant 71 Airport Rd., 508-693-1886; mvyairport.com.
Y State Road Restaurant 688 State Rd., 508-693-8582; stateroadrestaurant.com.
Y Vineyard Take Out 479 State Rd, 508-500-8634; vineyardtakeoutmenu.com.
S Woods at Lambert’s Cove Inn 92 Manaquayak Rd., 508-422-8051; lambertscoveinn.com.
Let us know if we don't have your favorite Vineyard restaurant listed here, and we'll do our best to add it to the next Vineyard Visitor. Send us a line at vineyardvisitor@ mvtimes.com.
11:00a - Midnight
11:00a - Midnight
11:00a - 11:00p
Menemsha Pond Waterfront, Chilmark
House and guest house on 3.8 acres with a private dock on Menemsha Pond. Unique among Island estates for its combination of privacy, convenience, and expansive views. In the heart of Menemsha within walking distance of the classic harbor. Exclusively offered at $7,450,000.
Historic Spring Street, Vineyard Haven
This elegant Greek Revival home, built in 1842, has stood the test of time. This 5-bed, 4-bath home has undergone tasteful renovations while preserving its historic charm. A rare opportunity to own a piece of Vineyard Haven history. Exclusively offered at $3,195,000.
Waterfront Hines Point, Vineyard Haven
Lily Hill - a rare Hines Point offering that includes a waterfront home with exquisite views, a deep water mooring and dock, and 130 feet of private fine-sand beach, all poised on a knoll on the western shore of the Lagoon. Exclusively offered at $6,795,000.
Lamberts Cove Road, West Tisbury
This thoughtfully designed 3 bed/3 bath post and beam home blends craftsmanship and character. A detached two-car garage with finished space above offers versatility and potential for expansion. Proximity to Lambert’s Cove Beach. Exclusively offered at $3,195,000. 504 State Road, West Tisbury MA 02575 · 508.696.9999 Beetlebung Corner, Chilmark MA 02535 · 508.645.2628 www.tealaneassociates.com
Pilot Hill Farm, Vineyard Haven
For the first time in 37 years, an extraordinary property within Pilot Hill Farm is for sale. Set on nearly 8 acres, this estate features a meticulously renovated historic farmhouse, a guest house, 2 artist studios, and a carriage house. Exclusively offered at $6,900,000.
East Chop Victorian, Oak Bluffs
Welcome to this year-round Victorian/Gingerbread home, close to the harbor, Jetty Beach, and downtown. The home and gardens have been lovingly maintained, located in the highly sought-after East Chop neighborhood. Exclusively offered at $1,895,000.
21 Acres on Cencelle, Chilmark
Private estate with ocean views, tucked away in the rolling hills and farmlands of Chilmark, offers sweeping ocean views and a rare sense of seclusion and serenity. The modern style home is flooded with natural light and panoramic views. Exclusively offered at $6,750,000.
Lighthouse Road, Aquinnah
Waterview 4-bedroom, 2 bath beach house, with a short deeded walking path to the calm and sandy waters of the North Shore beach. This 4-bedroom, 3-bathroom, bright and airy home is the perfect Aquinnah retreat. Exclusively offered at $1,725,000.
504 State Road, West Tisbury MA 02575 · 508.696.9999 Beetlebung Corner, Chilmark MA 02535 · 508.645.2628
