Lale September October 2016

MAGAZINE OF THE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN OF ISTANBUL

01 SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER 2016

Beauty of the

BLACK SEA

A Subtropical Retreat in Northeast Turkey

Around Beşiktaş

DISCOVER THIS LIVELY DISTRICT

FUGITIVE SHADOW outdoor art in the city

Social Responsibility EMPOWERING OUR COMMUNITY

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CONTENTS SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER 2016

LALE NEWS

22 HEALTH Acıbadem explains how to detect childhood vision problems

4 SOCIETY Hip happenings about town - Ceviche demo, Dip and Dine, and a Turkish Ebru workshop

10 NETWORKING Building a thriving community for our business members 11 CHARITIES Meet our new grantees for 20162017

14 EXPAT LIFE Karen Yarnold continues her hilarious take on settling in to Istanbul

46 EVENTS Kick off fall in Istanbul with our exciting programmes

LALE FEATURES

24 NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR We wander through the lively neighbourhood of Beşiktaş

42 TRAVEL Visit the lush mountainscape of the Black Sea region

LALE REGULARS

3 LETTERS FROM THE EDITOR AND CHAIR 54 BOARD NEWS 56 NEWCOMERS 58 MUMS ’N KIDS 55 BOARD FOCUS 60 CLUBS, GROUPS AND ASSOCIATIONS 63 SPECIAL OFFERS

30 INTERVIEW Fetaturing talented artist and former anchorwoman Evgenia Yayıkoğlu

34 CULTURE Experience the splendour of the Sakıp Sabancı Museum calligraphy exhibition

36 ART Visit the open air Fugitive Shadow exhibit on the Elgiz Museum terrace

LALE LIFESTYLE

16 FOOD Fans of Asian food have a new resource in Asya Gurme

20 WELLBEING Dr. Sultan Duyar-Doğan discusses a new approach in paediatric treatment and her fight agains child obesity

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LALE BOARD INFORMATION IWI Office Hours: First Wednesday of the month, 10:30am to 1:00pm. Answering service available every working day Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahalesi, Ecza Sok. Pol Center Casci, Apt. No: 4, Sisli, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 287 35 71 www.iwi-tr.org

Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul

IWI BOARD MEMBERS Chairwoman

Anna Ilhan

chairwoman@iwi-tr.org

Vice Chairwoman

Karen Yarnold

vicechair@iwi-tr.org

Treasurer

Leen Saket

treasury@iwi-tr.org

Secretary

Jeanette von AlvenslebenNiethammer

secretary@iwi-tr.org

Membership Coordinator

Elena Sklyarskaya

membership@iwi-tr.org

Lale Editor

Monisha Kar

lale@iwi-tr.org

Sponsorship Coordinator

Gülşen Şahin

sponsorship@iwi-tr.org

Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027

Neighbourhood Community Coordinator

Maria Eroğlu

ncm@iwi-tr.org

İrtibat Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahalesi, Ecza Sok. Pol Center Casci, Apt. No: 4, Sisli, Istanbul – TURKEY

Newcomers Coordinator (European side)

Ayşe Yücel

newcomerseurope@iwi-tr.org

Newcomers Coordinator (Asian side)

Gabriele Sailer

newcomersasia@iwi-tr.org

Events Coordinator

Merle Klehn

events@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Coordinator

Kristina Wilfore

charity@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Coordinator

Fiona Slay

programs@iwi-tr.org

Marketing & Communications

Sibele Valsani

marketing@iwi-tr.org

Business Networking Coordinator

Katharina Meyer

networking@iwi-tr.org

Relationship Manager

Halima Hodzic

relationshipmanager@iwi-tr. org

Schools Liaison Coordinator

Krastina Aranitasi

schools@iwi-tr.org

İmtiyaz Sahibi / Licensee: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli Tasarım / Design: Marlet Corporate Publications www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Matbaa / Printer: Marlet Print Solutions Fener Kalamış Caddesi: No:30 Kalamış / İstanbul www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Basım Tarihi: 24.08.2016 Sayı: 82 Official Facebook page: facebook.com/istanbulwomen Instagram account @iwistanbul

Cover picture: Ayder Waterfall by Annette Fleck 2

OTHER IWI TEAM MEMBERS Advertising Assistant

Aylin Gottardo

advertising@iwi-tr.org

IWI Newsletter Coordinator

Suzy Kaluti

iwieletter@iwi-tr.org

Digital Media & Website Coordinator

POSITION AVAILABLE

digitalmedia@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Team Members

Tanja Grüb, Olga Dundar, Kathleen di Giacomo, Alexis Harvey

programs@iwi-tr.org

Events Team Members

Anna Mozejko, Laila Soomro

events@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Assistant

Nathalie Versavel

charity@iwi-tr.org

Further vacant positions can be found on page 54

LALE

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR While we hope the fall brings cooler temperatures to Istanbul, we know that isn’t always the case! If you are seeking cooler climates and a change of scenery, read our cover story on the Black Sea region in the Northeast corner of Turkey. Known for its dramatic and lush scenery, it is a crossroads for many civilisations and features many historic churches, monasteries, castles and mosques. Closer to home, our Neighbourhood Tour this month focuses on the Beşiktaş district on the shores of the Bosphorus. Known as a major transportation hub in the city, it attracts tourists and locals alike with sites like the ornate Dolmabahce to the lively Beşiktaş Çarşı.

If it is culture you are seeking, turn to page 36 for our feature on the Elgiz Terrace Exhibit – Fugitive Shadow, which runs through mid-November. This contemporary museum, situated in Maslak is hosting their 8th annual Terrace exhibition. The skyscrapers of the surrounding area make a stunning backdrop on which to showcase the talents of various Turkish and International artists. For a taste of historic Turkish and Ottoman art, you can read about the grounds of the Sakıp Sabancı Museum (SSM) and a contemporary relaunch of its important calligraphy exhibit on page 34.

As Fall is often a time for new beginnings- with children starting school, people returning from vacations, and recent arrivals settling into the city, it is also a new year for IWI. We have a new list of grantees from our Social Responsibility group, and you can read about them and how you can help through charitable support or skill-based volunteering on page 11. We also invite you to our Opening meeting on September 26. There are a lot of changes in store for the organisation, and we welcome your energy, interest and ideas to help make this a banner year for IWI. All the best, Monisha Kar, Lale Editor

A LETTER FROM THE CHAIR A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to visit one of the current IWI charitable grantees, Small Projects Istanbul (SPI). During that visit I met Amal, a Syrian Refugee.

Amal, like so many other refugees, has been separated from some of her family. Her eldest daughter is currently in Germany; and before becoming involved with SPI, Amal figured that she would eventually make her way there with her other children. Since being in a part of the SPI organisation she has found happiness, support and purpose. She is currently managing one of the craft groups that produces lovely pouches with traditional knitted designs (I bought several to take to America as gifts); and works closely with the other groups that produce beautiful bracelets and earrings. The underlining message that I took away from my conversation with this extraordinary woman was community. Amal reminded me that happiness is what you make of life; and being a part of a community that you contribute to is a large part of that.

My visit with Amal only strengthened my resolve to reinforce the support network we have through IWI. The world, at times, is a contentious place and often our happiness depends on the network that we build around us. Living in a foreign country requires you to embrace the challenges and try to look positively at the future. I firmly believe that your strength comes from the people you surround yourself with. As an organisation, IWI must work hard at establishing this support. Our motto is “From Women For Women”, so let us all demonstrate the strength of our community as international women living in and around Istanbul.

Warmest Regards, Anna ILHAN, IWI Chairwoman P.S. Small Projects Istanbul (along with our other current grantees) will be available to share their story, answer questions and sell their beautiful jewelry, pouches and bags at our Annual Opening Meeting on Monday, 26 September. I look forward to seeing you there.

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: KAMILA BAKIRHAN

CEVICHE WORKSHOP IWI ladies enjoyed a fusion of flavours at a Peruvian Ceviche workshop and demonstration at the Hyatt Regency in Ataköy. Resident chef Bruno Santa Cruz brought his culinary talent and special brand of hospitality to the event

Jeanette from Germany, Karen from the UK, Anna from Russia, Ayşe from Turkey, Silke and Margot, guest and Ina from Germany

Karen from the UK, Anna from Russia

Karen from the UK, Anna from Russia, Fiona from the UK, Ayşe from Turkey, Ina and guest from Germany Elena from Russia Enjoying and the tour

Garnishing the Sea Bream Tiradito with Aji Verde and walnuts

Chef Bruno putting the finishing touches on the Shrimp and Avocado ceviche

Elena from Russia

Margot from Germany

Ina and guest from Germany, Anna from Russia, Silke from Germany,Jale from Iraq, Margot from Germany, Ayşe from Turkey, Fiona and Karen from the UK, Elena from Russia

Karen from the UK, Anna from Russia, Ayşe from Turkey, Silke and Margot, guest and Ina from Germany

Ina and guest from Germany

Chef Bruno works his magic

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

DIVING WITH DOLPHINS IWI members and guests enjoyed a leisurely private boat ride and potluck lunch on the Bosphorus. The highlight was relaxing in the cool waters and spotting a school of dolphins

Karen from the UK, Gülfem from Turkey

Gabriele from Germany

Kathleen from Switzerland, Vanessa from Germany

Lesley and Lesley from New Zealand, Alice from the US

Fiona from the UK, Karen from the UK, Gabriele from Germany

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Gülfem from Turkey, Gudrun from Germany, Keika from Japan, Alice, Sia and Laura from the US, Karen and Fiona from the UK, Vanessa from Germany, Lesley and Lesley from New Zealand, Monisha from the US

Laura from the US

Lesley and Lesley from New Zealand

Lesley from New Zealand

Gülfem from Turkey, Gudrun from Germany, Fiona and Karen from the UK, Vanessa from Germany

Fiona and Karen from the UK, Gabriele from Germany

Sia from the US

Lesley from New Zealand

LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

EBRU WORKSHOP

Cultural Interactions Point (CIP) proprietor Şerif Yenen hosted IWI members and guests for an Ebru workshop. Participants tried their hand at this traditional Turkish art of marbling, using pigment to create colourful patterns and transfer them to paper

Ebru Master Tüzin demonstrates the technique of creating two poppies

Christine from Germany

Finished product

Tüzin and Şerif from Turkey, Anna from the US

Gülşen from Germany

Tüzin from Turkey, Olga from the Netherlands

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Diane from the US

Gudrun from Germany, Şerif and Tüzin from Turkey, Anna, Erin and Diane from the US

Monisha from the US

Hülya from Germany

LALE NETWORKING

FEATURE: MONISHA KAR. PHOTOGRAPHY: GRAPHICSTOCK

BUSINESS NETWORKING

Originally founded in 2008 as IPWIN (International Professional Women of Istanbul Network) to provide foreign and Turkish women a platform to learn from each other, the Business Networking division of IWI was rebranded in 2016 and has grown to encompass professional networking events, workshops and keynote speakers. Read what is in store in the coming year

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e recognise how important it is to continuously challenge ourselves to improve the value we provide to our members. That is why we are excited to announce the rebranding of the International Professional Women of Istanbul Network (formerly known as IPWIN), to ‘Business Networking’. We want to be the eminent resource for professional international women living in Istanbul (Foreign and Turkish) to network with colleagues, find support, exchange business ideas and share knowledge. With a new name, comes a new vision for the team.

WE CHANGED OUR NAME

Previously, IPWIN was an autonomous function within IWI, and while the team did report up through the board structure, it was seen largely as a stand-alone to the larger community.

As a result, it was difficult to articulate the relationship to the IWI and how the team drew support within the broader organisational framework. Now that the team has been rebranded to Business Networking and falls under the IWI umbrella, we can present a more unified business case to our existing network and to our prospective members.

Additionally, we can coordinate resources to better address and connect with the business community’s interests.

This last year was one of tremendous growth for the team.

By gathering feedback and following market trends, we organized events that were important and relevant to our members. We invited businesswomen - both those native to Turkey and expats who have decided to make Turkey their home - from the greater Istanbul community to present meetings and conduct workshops to our members. They shared their expertise in such areas as digital marketing, the art of negotiation, pursuing careers in NGOs, exploring the Turkish job market, wealth management, entrepreneurship and on many more topics. This coming year, we will continue to bring programs and events that energise and inspire you to grow personally and professionally.

MORE SUPPORT IS COMING

Not only do we want to provide a venue to share content, we also want to encourage networking and collaboration in a customized way. While networking events are great for making new connections and catalyzing new ideas, that initial

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excitement soon fades because there isn’t a roadmap to take those relationships or new ideas to the next level. Not only do we want to bring people together, we want to help foster those connections outside of our events so that they become self-sustaining and mutually fulfilling.

Whether you are a business owner, an executive at a company, or working on a pro bono basis, we all have individual challenges that we are faced with. We want to help you grow your network within a specific industry or function so that you can benefit from people who have ‘been there, done that’, and help you reach and exceed your personal goals.

Building on our successes, one of our goals this year is to increase our outreach to the community by improving the support and resources to our business members. The business membership structure was introduced last year to provide support for our members who owned small business within the Istanbul region. Communication was key to making the new membership level work. Halima Hodzic, IWI Relationship Manager commented that “working handin-hand is very important. Most small businesses are exactly that - small businesses without enough resources, the IWI organisation does have resources to assist them or get them pointed in the right direction. Our business members should and can rely on us.”

WANT TO LEARN MORE?

Come to our Opening Meeting on September 26! This year, we are including both a day and evening session in consideration of people’s different schedules. It will be an occasion to explore the different programs and events that IWI offers, discuss volunteer opportunities both within our board and the broader organisation, and is a venue for our members and prospective members to connect and start or continue to build their community.

We look forward to taking this journey with you!

LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

CHARITY OUT SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY IN FEATURE: KRISTINA WILFORE. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF THE GRANTEES

IWI Social Responsibility Coordinator Kristina Wilfore reveals our 2016-2017 grantees

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n 2016 we decided to rename IWI’s Charity program to Social Responsibility. Why? Social responsibility is an ethical framework that suggests an organisation has an obligation to act for the benefit of society at large. “Charity” can be perceived as one way, whereas social responsibility more appropriately matches IWI’s two-way approach in working with nonprofit civil society organisations in Turkey.

Our program is still based on giving money raised by members, as well as time and expertise. This approach allows members to receive something back – the ability to learn, understand and contribute to the community in which we live and build their professional skills through volunteering. Through our contributions we promote a set of values IWI members can get behind – creating equal opportunity for women and girls, caregiving for those in need, encouraging economic development, protection of women, prevention of domestic violence, and healthy, educated and adjusted children. Charity is a handout, social responsibility is an approach that embodies the spirit of IWI’s mission and demonstrates our desire to ensure our lingo matches our intent.

Bomonti Fransız Fakirhanesi

Organisational focus: Elder Care

Bomonti is a home for the poor for the elderly of Istanbul, administered by the Little Sisters of the Poor. Located in Bomonti/Şişli, it is home to some 66 needy residents. IWI members have supplied funds and volunteer support to Bomonti for over 10 years. Last year funds were used to provide meals for the residents. IWI also supports their bi-annual Kermiz through donation of saleable used goods donated by its member base.

IWI funding: IWI’s support this year is meant to supplement food for the residents.

Değişim Liderleri Derneği (DLD - Change Leaders Association) Organisational Focus: Youth leadership, targeting young Turkish women of modest means attending high schools and universities

New Grant Recipients Announced!

IWI raised 70,000 TL which was given to the following Turkish social welfare organisations. Each year we take stock of members’ interests and the needs in the community. Through a rigorous and competitive process, we decide who best represents IWI’s interests and is deserving of our support.

The funding cycle is from June 2016-May 2017. For more details about the grant making process, please refer to IWI’s website.

DLD’s mission is to strengthen the potential of girls and women to become active, responsible and productive leaders in their communities and professions. In so doing, they help advance society’s growth and prosperity through the full contributions of its women. DLD’s current focus is young women of modest means attending high schools and universities. The women are generally the first in their families to attend university. DLD’s leadership training emphasizes long-term experiential earning coupled with the attainment of social responsibility, exposure to role models, and cuttingedge career opportunities. Groups are conducted in Duzce, Izmit/Golcuk, Izmir and Istanbul.

IWI funding: To enhance and create new program printed resource material. Training programs are fundamental to the success of DLD. Due to limited professional-level volunteer resources and to DLD’s rapidly growing needs and opportunities, the ability to document programs has been sporadic. Quality documentation aids program development, maintenance, and transfer of knowledge as the program grows and expands into other cities.

HADD (Hisar Anatolian Support Society) Organisational Focus: Girl´s economic empowerment and education

The Hisar Anatolian Support Society (HADD) provides valuable skills to young, low-income women of families forced to migrate to Van in Eastern Turkey. Girls and young women learn the traditional art of dying wool and Kilim weaving. The high-end rugs bring in valuable income for their families, while preserving the ancient arts. They are also taught how to raise bees for honey for local and national markets, and recently started a soap making component to the program. HADD workshop buildings provide a safe haven for the women to meet freely outside of their homes, build friendships and learn from each other. They are provided access to educational courses as well as economic opportunity, which reduces the incidence of early marriage.

IWI funding: IWI supports the salary of the advisorteacher who acts as a counselor for the young women attendees of their socialization program, as they can talk about problems regarding their education or any concerns that they may have about their private lives. The advisor supports the school girls in their studies at the HADD Social Centres for educational assistance.

KADAV, Kadın Dayanışma (Women’s Solidarity Foundation)

Organisational Focus: Gender equality - advocacy and direct service for women

Mavi Kalem

Organisational Focus: Social assistance for women, children, youth and disaster survivors

Mavi Kalem is a social assistance and charity organisation founded in 2000 to respond to the needs of women and children in crisis. Mavi Kalem facilitates issue meetings with women from different areas of Istanbul to discuss women’s health and health rights. They are also working to improve life standards of children that come with their families to Istanbul for reasons like conflict in different places of Anatolia and war in Syria who have faced violence, discrimination, mistrust and victimhood. Activities that are held with children include: therapies for opting to live together, handling violence, confidence development, personal therapy sessions, arts and education workshops.

IWI funding: This year IWI is sponsoring workshops for the empowerment of young girls (ages 12-18 years) to prevent violence, sexual abuse, early marriage and early sexuality. According to Mavi Kalem, in Turkey, girls and women face many gender-based risks that effect their livelihood, health and safety. The aim of the workshop is to change girls’ perceptions of themselves, and to support them to imagine and construct themselves as equal individuals from adolescents.

The Women’s Solidarity Foundation (KADAV) is an independent women’s non-governmental organisation that aims to contribute to the struggle for gender equality in two key areas; combating with gender based violence and supporting women’s labour and employment in Turkey.

KADAV was founded in 1999 in İstanbul, with the aim of supporting women and children who were effected by the Marmara Earthquake which happened in northwest Turkey.

IWI funding: Last year IWI supported KADAV’s project to provide support for Syrian women through a women’s resource center. This year IWI is helping fund a laundry and a social facility space next to the laundry for Syrian women and their children living in an impoverished neighbourhood in Istanbul. Its aim is to provide an acceptable reason for women to get permission by the male member of their family to go out and join a social activity while providing a facility that would help for their domestic burden. At the laundry centre women have access to cultural sharing and gender awareness sessions.

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Onar

Organisational focus: Gender-based violence prevention

LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Onar is a Turkish multicultural NGO working to empower women and stop gender-based violence. They believe that violence against women can be ended by advancing the status of women in society and empowering women to lead the lives they want. Their activities focus on awareness and prevention by providing legal and psychological support to women in violent situations. The services they provide fill a gap in Istanbul by targeting women who have been unable to obtain support due to limited Turkish language abilities. In this respect, Onar is able to act as a bridge between foreign women and Turkish services.

YÖRET Vakfı

Organisational Focus: A counseling organisation to contribute to the growth and development of children and youth in at-risk communities

IWI funding: IWI is supporting the “Raise your Woice, Share your Story” project against sexual harassment, born in collaboration with Hollaback Istanbul. University Students of BAU Galata and the Communication Faculty will be the participants of workshops aimed to provide strategies and tools for fighting sexual harassment and sexual violence against women in Istanbul.

Small Projects Istanbul

Organisational focus: Support to Syrian refugees

YÖRET Vakfı is an educational organisation which trains and counsels new teachers. IWI has contributed to the SMART project for several years, which is a summer art school for disadvantaged children. The SMART projects aim is for children to experience new coping and behaviour skills by introducing many forms of art, such as small theatre production. In addition, the children also get to enjoy social and cultural activities they would otherwise not have the chance to experience. YÖRET Vakfı reaches approximately 800 children and their families. The choice of school and area is made in cooperation with the Ministry of Education.

The mission of Small Projects Istanbul is to provide access to formal as well as supplemental education that will assist students and families from Syria to succeed in Turkey and beyond, paving the way for better opportunities in the future. Small Projects Istanbul runs a craft collective and its Olive Tree community centre in Fatih, Istanbul, where Syrian refugee women have the opportunity to develop skills in hand crafts and earn livelihood support to help them rebuild their lives. They produce a range of jewellery, bags and scarves.

They now support around 200 Syrian refugees in Fatih through education and livelihood projects and that number continues to grow weekly.

IWI funding: Funding is provided to support the women’s craft cooperative, covering basic costs so that, along with funds raised through their crowdfunding campaign and other fundraising events, they are to continue their supplemental education and community education programmes and reach more individuals, as well as expand to include the collective as a skills building and livelihood support initiative.

IWI funding: IWI provides support for the SMART program for at-risk children.

There are plenty of ways to get involved! Members of IWI volunteer with nonprofits, organize fundraisers, support specific projects and help out however they can. Need ideas?

Check out our Volunteer Page on the IWI web site iwi-tr. org. And for more information or context, please feel free to contact IWI’s Social Responsibility coordinator to learn more.

Bomonti Fransız Fakirhanesi: psdptr@gmail.com DLD: degisimliderleri.org HADD: hadd.org.tr KADAV: kadav-ist.org Mavi Kalem: mavikalem.org ONAR: onaristanbul.com and Raise Your Woice Small Projects Istanbul: smallprojectsistanbul.org YÖRET Vakfı: yoret.org IWI Social Responsibility Coordinator: charity@iwi-tr.org

LALE EXPAT LIFE

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: KAREN YARNOLD PHOTOGRAPHY : CİHAN SONÜSTÜN

HOŞGELDIN!

TÜRKIYE’YE

As expats, we often reflect on our time abroad and how our experiences have affected us. Karen Yarnold takes a walk down memory lane and shares some major milestones having passed the one-year anniversary of her arrival in this vibrant and mystifying city

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hree notable things happened to me in July; apart from watching an attempted military coup unfold on TV at the airport, just three miles from my home, the subsequent defeat, and then being a part of a State of Emergency that is grabbing worldwide attention, prompting family and friends tell me we have to leave – now! I guess that’s notable.

Perhaps my personal list is chicken-feed in comparison.

Anyway, in order of occurrence: • My Turkish Driving licence came through • My İkamet expired • We reached our one-year anniversary of living in Istanbul.

I have a Turkish driving licence. I’ll bet that’s something that not many of the Lale readers will be able to say. Why? I hear some of you asking. Well, it’s nothing to do with Turkey in this instance (although it is technically against the law to drive without one from July 2016). Oh no – it’s all to do with new UK laws. It was getting increasingly more difficult to get a hire car in the UK as we don’t live there (despite owning two properties and having family all over the country), we can’t provide utility bills in our name, and can’t vouch that our clean UK licences actually represent the status of our driving. So, in May we started the three-month long process of getting the Turkish versions.

Anyone who has tried to apply for their driving licence in Turkey will understand where I am coming from. It’s a bureaucratic nightmare, compounded by not being able to speak the language. (Why have all my columns come back to the same conclusion?). If anyone needs help with this then email me at vicechair@iwi-tr.org and I’ll point you in the right direction. But you must be able to engage the services of a Turkish speaker, preferably a local.

My İkamet expired on July 3. No big deal? Hmmm. Well, I had just two weeks to get it processed as I needed my husband’s work permit to be renewed first. (Oh the joys of being the secondary person in the household – in the eyes of administration of course – not in Paul’s eyes. Absolutely not!). We got back into Istanbul on July 2, met with the man who fixes my İkamet problems (and I advise everyone to have one of these) who assured me that it would be “no problem”, especially after a large sum of money changes hands. Well, thanks to the State of Emergency, my İkamet went down the priority list. So, come our proposed trip to Vienna on July 30, I couldn’t leave the country without a penalty.

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Change of plan, and we went to Pamukkale, Şirince and Ephesus instead. Far more on that in a later issue – that’s an experience that deserves four pages. Thankfully the İkamet arrived a few days later.

Our one-year anniversary of living in Istanbul. Since I’m a great FB poster I had to tell the world ….. “1 year ago today - that’s when we arrived in Istanbul. We don’t know when or how this journey will end but we do know this has been a fantastic year. It’s been full of ups, downs, frustrations, surprises, new experiences, new friends, and much more. I was warned that Istanbul would get under my skin and it has.

Regrets? Absolutely none. Thanks to all, including all our many visitors, who have been part of this journey so far.”

And it has been an amazing year. Once our furniture arrived from Singapore in October (it only took two months) our flat felt like our home, so much so that we have had a constant stream of visitors – at least nine sets of them. In November we adopted Barney Yarnold the Super Puppy and our lives changed considerably. Autumn and Winter also brought proper seasonal weather again, rain, wind and even snow – this was a pure delight to us after a four years in Singapore where the weather never changes and the daylight hours are 7am to 7pm. With Spring came long healthy walks on the beach, and a chance to enjoy warmer weather. And then the long endless Summer – and I have realised that these are the three months I dislike in Istanbul. Too many people on our beach (many undesirables) littering the place and making too much noise, far too hot for my taste, public transport hell, air conditioning that struggles to cope, and sweaty nights. But you know – despite all of this – every time I go into the city I am in awe of its splendour, and its organised chaos, and the buzz that this wonderful place gives me. I hope we can continue to enjoy it for a few more years to come.

LALE GOURMET

FEATURE: VERENA RINGE. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ASYA GURME

A TASTE OF THE FAR EAST Whether you crave the exotic, or the comfort of your mother’s cooking, we have likely experienced moments of nostalgia and longing when it comes to finding and recreating your favourite foods while living abroad.

Verena Ringe spoke to Talia and Emre Uzunoglu, the founders or Asya Gurme about their company and how they are bringing the flavours of the Far East to Turkey

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hree years ago Talia and Emre Uzunoğlu went on a holiday to Thailand and fell in love with Asian cuisine.

Already creative home cooks and generally interested in good food, they were brought up short to the reality, that in Istanbul and the whole of Turkey, it was very difficult, if not downright impossible to find the necessary ingredients for Asian cooking. Many of their friends felt themselves in the same predicament. So Talia and Emre went to find what they needed. Often frustrated, they nevertheless persevered and found the necessary items through private contacts and advise from small shops. The idea to start a company to fill the demand for Asian ingredients evolved. Before holidaying in Thailand, they had already spent 3 months at the “Mutfak Sanatları Akademisi” (an advanced cookery school) and taken food management courses and felt well prepared to start their own internet company.

After two years of research and establishing a line of reliable resources, asyagurme.com is the resulting brainchild.

Customers can order ingredients necessary for dishes from Thailand, Japan, Korea and China, and Talia and Emre hope to enlarge their services to include products for cooking Indian and Vietnamese food.

Everything necessary, such as spices, packed or tinned food, and liquids can be ordered through their website and will reach the enthusiastic cook in one to two days. A comprehensive list of all available products is available in English and Turkish, as well as instructions of how to pay and how to order. For the cooks looking for additional inspiration and ideas, the website has many sumptuous recipes, with

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many more being added on a regular basis. Currently, most of the recipes are written in Turkish, while some have been translated into English. There is an ongoing effort to add additional recipes and to also translate them all into English.

Many, who have travelled and want to recreate their favourite dishes here in Istanbul and others, who want to try out something new, are already firm customers. All you have to do is to choose your dish and order spices and sauces and rice and noodles and more and then go shopping for your meat, seafood and vegetables.

Talia and Emre also thoroughly research and investigate into the origins of the products in view of political and health concerns, e.g. allergies. If in doubt, a personal chat is invited, and a helpline for practical cooking advice is also available.

Mushroom and Asparagus Japchae (Korean)

Thai Green Curry with Beef (Thai)

INGREDIENTS

INGREDIENTS

• 200 grams Korean Glass Noodles (Dang Myun), cooked according to package directions • 500 grams Mushrooms (Chesnut, oyster or shiitake), sliced • 1 bunch Asparagus, remove wooded ends and cut into equal lengths • 1 small Onion, sliced • 2 Red Bell Peppers, seeded and thinly sliced • 2 cloves Garlic , thinly sliced or minced • 1 pinch Salt • 3 tablespoons Vegetable Stock or Water • 2 tablespoons Sunflower Oil • 4 tablespoons Soy Sauce • 1 tablespoon Sesame Oil • 4 teaspoons Brown Sugar • 2 teaspoons Sesame Seeds • ½ teaspoon Black Pepper

• • • • • • • • • • • •

300 grams Beef Sirloin, thinly sliced against the grain 2-3 Small Eggplants, cut into cubes ¼ cup Green Peas 2.5 tablespoons Green Curry Paste 1 can Coconut Milk 1 tablespoon Brown Sugar 2 tablespoons Fish Sauce 4 Dried Kaffir Lime Leaves 1.5 tablespoons Sunflower Oil ½ cup Fresh Basil Leaves For Garnish: 2 Green Chillies, thinly sliced

DIRECTIONS

1)Heat 1/2 tablespoon of oil in a wok. Add in cubed eggplants and stir fry for 3-4 minutes on high heat then set a side.

2)Heat up some water in a heavy pan, once the water boils add in thinly sliced beef. When the water comes to a boil again take out the beef, let it drain and set a side.

3)Pick fresh basil leaves from their stalks and rinse them under water. Then let them sit in cold water to remain fresh.

4)Heat the remaining oil in the same pan or wok. Add the green curry paste and cook for 1-2 minutes on medium heat, until it releases its aromas. Stir in half the coconut milk, a little at a time. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 5-6 minutes on low heat. Then add beef, kaffir lime leaves, fish sauce and sugar to the pan. Let them cook for 2-3 minutes.

5)Stir in the remaining coconut milk and bring it back to a simmer. Once simmering add in stir fried eggplants along with green peas. Let them cook for 10-12 more minutes. Finally drain the fresh basil and add it to the pan. Stir once, then take the pan from heat. Garnish with finely chopped green chillies and serve with rice.

DIRECTIONS

1)Heat a large pan or wok over medium-high heat. Once the pan is hot, add 1 tablespoon sunflower oil and stir fry garlic together with red bell peppers for a minute. Then add asparagus, sprinkle some salt to season and continue stir frying for 1 or 2 more minutes. Pour 3 tablespoons vegetable stock or water to the pan and cook until all the water has evaporated. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

2)In the same pan add a little more oil and stir fry sliced mushrooms for 1-2 minutes. Then add in 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 teaspoons brown sugar, 1⁄2 tablespoon sesame oil, 1 teaspoon sesame seeds, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper and mix all together. Continue to stir fry until the sauce gets incorporated with mushrooms. Finally, add the sliced onions to the mushrooms and stir fry for 2-3 more minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

3)Heat remaining oil in the same pan, add the cooked glass noodles and stir fry for about 30 seconds on high heat. Then add remaining soy sauce, brown sugar, pepper, sesame oil, sesame seeds and mix all the flavors together. Remove pan from heat and return all the mushrooms and veggies you cooked before, to the pan and toss with noodles. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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LALE GOURMET Dorayaki (Japanese) INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • •

2 Eggs , at room temprature 100 grams Cake Flour ½ teaspoon Baking Soda 50 grams Brown Sugar 1 tablespoon Honey 1 tablespoon Mirin 2 teaspoons Water 4 tablespoons Sweet Red Bean Paste (Anko) Sunflower Oil

DIRECTIONS

1)In a large mixing bowl, combine eggs, sugar, honey, mirin and whisk well until the mixture becomes fluffy.

2)Add sifted flour and baking soda into the bowl and mix everything together until incorporated. Finally stir in 2 teaspoons of water and mix it all again, but be careful not to overmix the batter. Keep in the fridge to rest for 30 minutes.

3)Heat a non-stick frying pan over low heat. Dip a paper towel in sunflower oil and coat the bottom of the pan with the oil. Pour 2 tablespoons of the batter from above the pan to create round pancakes. When you see bubbles on the surface, flip over and cook the other side for approx. 1 minute. Transfer the pancakes to a plate and cover up with a wet paper towel to prevent from drying. Continue making pancakes until the batter is finished.

4)Make sandwiches with sweet red bean paste.Take one pancake and place a heaping tablespoon of Anko in the center and cover with another pancake. Wrap it with plastic and press with hands. Pinch to seal the edges of the pancakes together. You can keep it in the fridge until ready to serve.

NEW revised edition: CULTURE SMART! TURKEY

By Charlotte McPherson

 Stock of over 60,000 English titles  Books for all ages  We accept special orders from UK PLUS .. Book fairs and Scholastic magazines Free books to help schools build classroom and library resources!

Kuperard Publishers Fourth edition “Offers glimpses into the psyche of a far-away world.”

– -New York Times “This book has come to the rescue of hapless travellers.” – Sunday Times Travel

www.greenhousekitap.info Tel: 0216 550 4961 greenhousekitap

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You are cordially invited to the

2016 Opening Meeting Monday, 26 September 2016 at Marriott ĹžiĹ&#x;li This year there are two opportunities to learn more about the International Women of Istanbul (IWI) organization.

DAY SESSION 10:00 - 14:00 Coffee, tea and water will be provided.

Additionally food items are available for purchase.

EVENING SESSION 18:00 - 20:30 A welcome drink will be provided.

Additional beer, wine and snacks are available for purchase.

From Women For Women To learn more about this event, benefits of membership, and our charitable contributions please visit us at www.iwi-tr.org

19

TREATING CHILDREN WITH CARE

A Dutch-born paediatrician with her own, newly-established practice in Istanbul’s Zorlu Centre, Dr Sultan Duyar-Doğan is responding to an increasing demand from parents for less intervention and medication when it comes to their children’s care. She is also waging a new war against childhood obesity in Turkey.

Nina Lister met her FEATURE: NINA LISTER. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF SULTAN DUYAR-DOĞAN

SPONSORED FEATURE

Visiting Fenerbahçe with kids from Moda to hear see the players training

W

hen Dr Sultan Duyar-Doğan moved from her home in Holland to Turkey two years ago, she became aware of the concerns of many parents that their children were being over-medicated and undergoing too many unnecessary medical tests in the healthcare system here.

As a European-trained paediatrician who speaks five languages, Dr Sultan was practised in the “wait-and-see” method of treating children, particularly when it comes to prescribing antibiotics – an approach she has found appeals particularly to the expat communities of Istanbul. These days she has also taken to leading educational seminars for parents and schools about the dangers of over-medicating and aims to offer special surgeries alongside other medical practitioners to tackle the problem of childhood obesity. She talked to Lale about her approach when it comes to the care of our children.

What are your concerns about childhood obesity?

Obesity is an rising problem all over the World. It is an international problem with major negative effects on the health of our children. One-third of children in Europe are now overweight and Turkey is the number one country in Europe for child weight problems. In Holland, I found there is a real sports culture in schools which does not exist here. Healthy children should be active for at least two hours per day and this should be part of their daily routine.

How are you developing this project here?

This year, I have launched my Are You Ready To Move?

Campaign, which is a call for every parent to do some form of physical activity with their children, for at least one hour every day. I asked people to make videos of themselves doing exercise with their kids and post them to my Instagram account, and I have been overwhelmed by the positive response to this.

We have also organised specific activities with schools here.

For example we took a group of children from Istek Okulları to do the 6km walking track in the Belgrade Forest. We also took a group of 70 children from a school Moda to the Fenerbahçe football stadium to talk to the players about their eating and exercise regime and to watch them in training.

I want to reach parents to change the lifestyle culture because we must set an example for our children. The use of iPads etc has become a very big problem, so I have been giving talks at schools to try to educate people. As a specialist in acute care for premature new-borns, I also teach resuscitation methods for new-borns to both parents and other practitioners

What other plans do you have?

In Holland, I helped develop a programme in which we followed the progress of children within several different age groups over several years with a team of doctors with different specialisms – we had a dietician, a psychologist, a physiotherapist, a general paediatrician etc.

At the moment, I am working on putting together a similar team to do this here. We would have set days for special appointments in which we can assess the overall health of children with weight problems. We get all the information about the child together, from the whole of their life and assess things like their movements while doing certain exercises. If needed, we can do blood tests as well. After all this, we can report much more accurately on what the child needs. We did this weekly for five years in Holland.

I have also started a monthly visit to Syrian refugees in Istanbul, where I give a full check up and provide whatever medicine is needed. I have found a lot of vitamin deficiency among these kids, as well as dental and skin problems, so I am currently looking for a paediatric dentist to work alongside me in this.

What is the ethos of your practice here in Istanbul?

I have found that parents are very concerned about the amount of antibiotics being prescribed in hospitals and about the number of invasive tests their children are subjected to. I offer a completely different approach, which I have found is particularly popular among expat parents. I am not against antibiotics, but they can only treat bacterial infections. Most ear infections in children, for example, are viral. I also try to use natural remedies and organic products as much as possible, for example in cough syrups and dermatological creams.

Dr Sultan speaks English, Turkish, Dutch, German and French and is offering a 15% discount to IWI members for your first general check-up.

For more information about Dr Sultan’s practice, please see www.drsultanduyardogan.com or contact info@drsultanduyandogan.com 0212 803 2663/64

The problem may not be learning how to read but a vision problem!

IF YOUR CHILD IS FOLLOWING THE SENTENCES HE/SHE READS WITH THEIR FINGER PAY CLOSE ATTENTION! If your child is following the sentences he/she reads with a finger…Skipping words or lines…Not following the line correctly when writing… and exhibiting other habits that are frequently seen in children, but not paid attention to because the family dismisses them with the excuse that ‘its natural, he is just learning how to read’, the underlying cause may in fact be vision problems that can become permanent if treatment is late!

Does your child have a vision problem?

Ophthalmology Specialist Dr. Emel Çolakoğlu listed the 12 noticeable symptoms of vision problems as follows: 1. Squinting when looking at a distant object, 2. Bending the head and looking at the point they want to see from a very close distance, 3. Headaches from reading and writing, 4. Skipping words or lines when reading, Acıbadem Bakırköy Hospital Ophthalmology Specialist Dr. Emel Çolakoğlu 10 percent of children just starting out in school have reading-writing difficulties for their age. Families can dismiss such problems with the excuse that it is ‘natural, they are just learning to read and write’.

But contrary to what is thought, the problem may not have anything to do with the reading and writing of the child but be an underlying vision problem. When vision problems, which can deteriorate the quality of life for children and cause them to have difficulty in school, are not responded to on time the problems can become permanent. Dr. Emel Çolakoğlu, an Ophthalmology Specialist at the Acıbadem Bakırköy Hospital pointed out that every child, even if there are no complaints, should have regular eye examinations to make sure treatment is not too late.

5. Following sentences with a finger, 6. Not being able to follow a line correctly when writing, 7. Looking at a book with one eye more forward than the other, 8. Developing a head position, 9. Saying that words become blurred or shift when reading, 10. Watching television too close, 11. Watering of the eyes, 12. Closing one eye in sunny weather (always the same eye) are all among the symptoms of vision problems.

SPONSORED FEATURE THE 4 VISION PROBLEMS SEEN MOST FREQUENTLY IN SCHOOL-AGE CHILDREN Ophthalmology Specialist Dr. Emel Çolakoğlu listed the problems most frequently seen in school-age children as follows: 1. STRABISMUS When focusing on an object or point, both eyes should be looking in the same direction. If one of the eyes is looking at the target while the other is looking at another point this is called “strabismus”. When strabismus develops in childhood the child generally favors one eye and uses it constantly. As a result the other eye becomes lazy. Every form of strabismus might not be as advanced enough for the mother, father or relatives to notice. In fact some forms cannot even be detected during an eye examination more detailed examinations are resorted to.

3.LAZY EYE The lazy eye condition occurs when the vision nerve is not completely developed because of a disease that can cause an image that falls on the visual nerve surface to be blurry. A refractive error in a single eye, shifting in a

2. FALSE STRABISMUS

single eye, long term eyelid problems in babies (a droopy

Conditions in which strabismus is imitated are called

eye lid that obstructs the vision axis at birth, an oedema

“false strabismus”. For example false strabismus can

caused by infection or trauma) can cause lazy eyes. By the

develop in the event of eyelid disorders or the base of

time it is noticed it might be too late for treatment. Since

the nose being flat. In order to prevent unnecessary

the development of vision in the brain is completed at about

concern and treatment, a diagnosis must be made

8-9 years, it is very important to get an early diagnosis to

carefully to distinguish real strabismus from false

treat a lazy eye properly. Otherwise a lazy eye can turn into

strabismus.

a permanent problem. If a patient has lazy eye it is usually treated with glasses as well as a patch to help the vision

4. REFRACTION FAULTS

nerve work better.

Refraction faults are usually genetic. Watching television too close, using a computer and reading a book too close can cause existing refraction problems to emerge or advance further. Refraction faults are observed in 3 forms: Myopia: Distance vision is blurry.

Hyperopia: Not being able to see up close clearly.

Astigmatism: Seeing distance and up close with a shadow due to irregularities in the eyeball diameter.

Glasses provide the best level of vision in refraction faults (myopia-hyperopia or astigmatism).

How often should children be examined?

Ophthalmology Specialist Dr. Emel Çolakoğlu listed how often children should be examined as follows: • Every baby, whether they are at risk or not, should definitely have an eye examination within their first 6 months.

• Children with no problems in their first eye exam should be examined again at about 2.5-3 years of age.

• Children with no problems when examined at 3 years old at the latest should be re-evaluated again at 5 and 7 years of age.

• After starting school children should have an eye exam every year. +90 216 544 46 64 www.acibademinternational.com

LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

FEATURE: MONISHA KAR. PHOTOGRAPHY: VICTORIA SKEET

BUSTLING BEŞIKTAŞ Buzzing with energy, the Bosphorus neighbourhood of Beşiktaş is a major transportation hub for the city and a favorite destination for tourists and locals alike. Monisha Kar took a wander through the busy streets

Above: Ilhamur Kasrı, a former Ottoman summer palace

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

I

’ve always been fascinated by the origins of city’s names and since coming to Istanbul and starting to learn Turkish, I was tickled to discover the literal translations of many of the districts and neighbourhoods in Istanbul. In Turkish, Beşiktaş literally translates to ‘cradle stone’, and there are many stories about the history and origin of the name.

According to one story, there was a Byzantine church, where Beşiktaş now is, named Kounopetra – which is Greek for “stone cradle.”

Once the Ottomans arrived and established control over the Black Sea Coasts, the surrounding area became an attractive location for settlement.

As a tourist many years ago with a limited timetable– the pull of Beşiktaş was primarily the Dolmabahce Palace and Naval museum. The coast is dotted with former summer palaces and hunting lodges of the sultans which now serve as high end hotels and historic museums. Content to view the area from the deck of a Bosphorus cruise, it wasn’t until I moved to the city last year that I discovered there was more to the area than meets the eye.

The church was supposedly built to honor a stone relic taken from the stable in Jerusalem where Jesus was born. The stone was later removed to Hagia Sophia and disappeared during the Fourth Crusade. In yet another story, the name is a variation of beş taş, Turkish for “five stones”, referring to stone pillars used for mooring ships in the time of Barbaros Hayrettin Paşa.

Beşiktaş has a long history dating back to the Greeks. The Byzantines built churches and a monastery here, and started the tradition of having a summer palace on the Bosphorus with their Ayios Mamas palace complex. However, these settlements being outside the city walls were under constant attack from pirates from the Black Sea coasts and little of this architecture has survived.

Top left:Balık Pazarı (Fish Market) Bottom left:Barbaros Hayrettin Paşa Iskelesi Above right: Barbaros Square besides Beşiktaş Iskele Bottom right:The Barbaros Monument in Barbaros Square

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

Beşiktaş is considered an important transportation hub, so there are no lack of options to reach here, whether by dolmuş, ferry, or bus. Plans are currently under way to construct a new transportation center in the area, intended to ease traffic congestion in the long run.

Recently, I had the chance to explore the neighbourhood streets. I wandered to the lively Balık Pazarı area which sits between Barbaros Boulevard and Çırağan Caddesi.

I stopped by the famous statue of the black eagle, the mascot of the Beşiktaş J.K. football team and observed the square teeming with activity from the pubs, the local eateries and shoppers looking for bargains. Football is an important part of the city, and come game days, devoted fans descend on the new 43,000 capacity Vodafone Arena as well as the local pubs to watch matches.

Saturday also happens to be a great day to check out the local pazars. In addition to the Balık Pazarı, which is marked by its modern stainless steel canopy and provides cover to fishmongers and produce vendors alike, the Cumartesi Pazarı, located near the Ilhamur Kasrı (Ilhamur Palace) is a two story market filled with fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese and other edible goodies. On the second floor you can find homewares galore and other miscellaneous items.

Amongst the urban chaos, the neighbourhood is home to many parks. One of the largest parks in Istanbul is Yildiz Park.

Tucked between Yildiz and Çırağan palaces, it is landscaped with paths, trees, flowers. Formerly the huntings grounds of the sultans, it is a popular picnicking area on the weekends.

The Çadır pavilion and Malta Köşk are some of the beautiful landmarks and you are likely to see many newlyweds getting their pictures taken there. Make sure to stop by one of the cafes in the park to enjoy a tea and the views.

Left: Statues of prominent Turkish figures in Abbasağa Park Right: Interior Sinan Paşa Camı

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SPONSORED ARTICLE

Small wonders of Istanbul

Jakob Vestergaard and Tine Lind, founders of A Book From Lind

The independent Danish publishing house A Book From Lind has just released a quirky guide on Istanbul. Its cofounder Jakob Vestergaard chats with Gizem Ünsalan about what it was like to strike out on their own and the process of putting together the guide

Y

ou and your wife Tine quit your jobs as full-time professionals to become independent publishers. What was that like?

“It really was a big decision, so it had been under way for quite some time – a few years, actually. We’re cautious people who like to discuss the pros and cons of things a lot, but we’re probably a bit anarchistic, too. And we had become pretty tired of the hamster wheel after years of working for others. We wanted to be our own bosses and plan our time ourselves so we could spend more of it with our two daughters.

“What finally pushed us into doing something about it was our oldest daughter becoming very ill. She needed several

28

months of full-time care, which basically forced us to actually do what we had talked about: to slow down and focus on the little things in life.”

“So what was it like? It really felt like a great relief, actually.

We were definitely ready for it, and after 10 years of getting up in the morning and going to work, it felt like being free. That’s a great feeling, and although we are definitely not free from work, we are still free to plan our days as we like – and give our children short days in school and kindergarten. ”We definitely discovered that it’s not an easy journey to become self-employed. It’s hard work, and while we were used to that before, what sometimes overwhelms you is the fact

SPONSORED ARTICLE that you need to be good at so many things outside your core competence – or at least try to learn them. Besides planning, editing and design, which we have done for years, we also had to do PR, marketing, accounting and so much more. That’s the hard part. But until now, it’s been worth it, and we have been lucky to work with some great people, which helps a lot.”

Why Istanbul?

“Istanbul is one of the most interesting European cities at the moment. There is a real creative and modern spirit on the rise. The city is changing and becoming a lot more modern while still maintaining some of its ancient charms. In many ways, Istanbul is a frontrunner when it comes to contemporary art and design, not unlike the food scene in Copenhagen.

There’s an abundance of modern art galleries that maintain pretty high quality and showcase a lot of interesting local and regional art that you really have to go to Istanbul to see.”

How do you go about recruiting locals to contribute to your guides?

“We’re looking for someone who really knows their city well, who shares our basic values and love for the local, slightly hip and authentic. I’m working as a travel editor for a Danish newspaper and have done so for several years, so for Paris, Berlin and Barcelona, I already knew great writers who could do the job. But finding Feride Yalav, who did the Istanbul guide, demanded quite a lot of research. Ultimately, we found her blog on the city, Istanbul22, and immediately fell in love with the honest, passionate and straightforward way she wrote and saw things. We’re so happy she wanted to do the guide with us!”

What’s the most unusual tip you received from a local?

“When we researched Small wonders of Rome we were looking for a great traditional Italian place in Centro Storico, which is surprisingly difficult because the center of Rome has become so touristy. One of the locals who helped us a lot told us to go to this hidden, old Italian restaurant. It was situated on a road that was neither on Google Maps nor on the paper map we brought with us – this was before we did our own map of the city – so we kind of wandered around totally confused for half an hour before finally stumbling on it – Piperno, which started

in 1860. Not many restaurants have that long a history, but we soon found out there really was a reason it still existed. It was fine-dining the traditional way in the heart of the old Jewish ghetto. Elegant, melancholy waiters in bow ties. No music and almost no talk. Everybody was kind of whispering and just enjoying their food. Wonderful food!

“Other than that, of course we have had our share of strange tips for places that really didn’t match what we were looking for, but generally speaking I think people really want to help in the best way possible. That is actually a great takeaway from this entire experience of ours, trying to build a small publisher: there are so many incredibly kind people around – all you have to do is ask.”

Which cities can we expect to see guides for next?

“Right now, we’re preparing the launch of Small wonders of Barcelona and will soon be finishing up research on Copenhagen, which we expect to publish in the fall. What comes after that is a bit more open, but we know that we love Amsterdam a lot and Lisbon seems to be moving on after years of recession, so they are definitely on our list.

“In the fall we will also expand our tiny series on alternative shopping with Small shops of Berlin. It highlights small, independent and artistic brands and shops that either have limited production or even a workshop where you can meet the designers themselves – it’s for people who like organic specialties, handmade jewelry and fashion in small editions.”

What are some of your future plans for A Book From Lind? Do you plan to publish other, non-guide books?

“We’ll probably stay in travel, and do guidebooks that are not really guidebooks in a traditional sense, much like our Small wonders series. Among other ideas, we are working on an interview book that could also be used as a guide and, since we have two young children, we’re also discussing the possibility of doing something for youngsters.”

Any last word of advice for our readers who might have wanderlust?

“Don’t do what everybody else does. Go offline, go your own way, and go slow!”

Small wonders of Istanbul is available on lindbooks.com

IWI MEMBERS GET 25% OFF! That’s 12 issues for the price of 9 - only 45 TL! Every month, your Time Out will be filled with features on citywide happenings, restaurant and café reviews, daily concert, event and exhibition listings, shopping hotspots, expat tips, travel destinations, celebrity interviews and all you want (and need) to know about what’s going on in your city.

Time Out Istanbul in English – Know More. Do More.

Subscribe today by contacting us at (0212) 287-1990 or gizem@timeoutistanbul.com, or by visiting www.timeout.com/istanbul

29

EVGENIA YAYIKOĞLU A child of the collapse of the former Soviet Union, Evgenia Yayıkoğlu is part of a generation of Russians driven to explore both a world once shut off to their parents and grandparents, and their own innate creativity. Nina Lister talked to the former 6 News TV presenter about her mission to bring a new understanding of art to Istanbul

FEATURE: NINA LISTER. PHOTOGRAPHY: FAY MAGNUSSON (PORTRAITS), HALIMA HODZIC AND COURTESY OF EVGENIA YAYIKOĞLU

A STUDY IN ART

LALE INTERVIEW

I

t has been a quarter of a century since the fall of the Soviet Union, and those who were just old enough to remember the hoisting of the Russian Tricolor in 1991 in celebration of the start of a new era are still finding their way in the outside world. Evgenia Yayıkoğlu, 34, founder of Arnavutköy Arts & Crafts, is one of those forging a life on the outside. Aside from her work as an artist, Evgenia has embraced her life in Istanbul with alacrity – working both as an interior designer and as a TV presenter on 6 News.

surname – is an old Ural name so his family originally came from there as well.

What was it like to be a child in the former Soviet Union?

I grew up in the Ural region of Russia, in the same town that Mikail Kalashnikov (inventor of the AK-47 assault rifle) was from – he was a good friend of my grandfather’s. After the Second World War, much of the country’s armaments production was moved to the Urals and it was all very secret – our town wasn’t even on the map. My grandfather was a mining engineer and went to work on developing armaments.

He told us he was making frying pans.

My father is a scientist in petroleum and was a teacher at university, and then suddenly everything stopped – education was no longer supported by the government. In a crisis, I believe that women are primed to survive because their instinct is to take care of their children, so they just have to. It is not the same for men. They are primed to be the breadwinners and everything just stopped. In the Soviet Union, people read a lot and saw the world through literature.

Now, the younger generation wants to go elsewhere in the world to find what they need and to see the world as it actually is.

Why have so many Russians come to live here?

Well, in 1917, three million Russians fled here and, although most headed off into Europe, one million remained. Istanbul, of course, has long been one of the world’s most multicultural cities.

“In the Soviet Union, we had to have permission just to leave our town,” she says. “So now the younger generations who were children at the time want to explore the world as much as possible.”

There is a large community of Russian expats in Istanbul, attracted to Turkey because of the similarities in culture compared to other parts of the world. Evgenia herself has lived here for eight years and is married to a Turk who she met in Sarajevo where he was posted with the EBRD, while she was doing an internship there. Having done a stint as a TV presenter here, she has now built up her art school which she leads once a week at the Meercat Gallery in Arnavutköy and has shown three exhibitions of her own work as well as that of her students here.

Somehow, we Russians fit the Turkish culture. It is very similar to Russian culture, particularly the role played by family. And in Russia there are 10 million more women than men because so many men die young from alcohol problems. Men are therefore very spoiled for choice when it comes to women and the young men are very chauvinistic. Our grandparents were great people, but the younger generation is much less responsible. Turkish men are attractive by comparison!

Left: “Pomegranate” 2016, Alla Guner; Acrylic on canvas Bottom: ”Train Station” 2015, Evgenia Lyalina Yayıkoğlu; Watercolor on Textile

What brought you to Istanbul?

I have been here for eight years and I came because my husband is Turkish. He was working in London when he was sent to Sarajevo to head up the branch of the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development (EBRD) there. My sister was working for UNICEF there at the time and I went out to join her and do a marketing internship. We met there at an exhibition of artists from the former Portuguese colonies. He had been working in Africa and had picked up an interest in this subject and, of course, I am an artist and so was interested anyway. We went to Baku together for his work, which was a fascinating experience for me, before coming to Turkey. He has his own energy business here now.

We are both from the Asian sides of our countries, so we named our daughter Asya. In fact Yayıkoğlu – my husband’s

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LALE INTERVIEW I am always amazed by how hard working people in Turkey are. In Russia, it is just a different tempo. In the Soviet Union, no-one was allowed any personal property for 70 years so people thought “why bother?” Now people have to take responsibility for themselves, their education, their progress and not just rely on the government to provide it all. It is a period of learning.

When did you start teaching art in Istanbul?

When we first came to Istanbul, we rented a house in Arnavutköy and I would come to the Meercat Gallery to buy supplies for myself. Then, three years ago, some of my Russian friends asked me to teach them to paint, so I asked the gallery for some space and they gave me a room. Now I hold workshops every Thursday. At the moment I teach solely in Russian, but I hope to start English-language workshops as well soon. All my students are regular attendees and have progressed together as a group. As a teacher, I have found that the more I share with my students, the more skills I acquire myself.

I also do a three-month interior design course once a year for women, which runs two times a week. It is an introduction to how to use arts and crafts for interior design.

It is all about colours, shapes and composition. It is mostly Russian speakers who attend – there is a very large Russian community in Istanbul and lots of the women teach. In the Soviet Union, everything was for free – dancing lessons, music lessons, painting courses, so lots of people have learned these skills. I see it as my purpose to bring people’s emotions out when they learn to paint. Everyone is different and I find they produce very different works of art.

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You think you are painting the same thing but everyone paints differently. I teach the same technique but everyone understands it differently. Everyone is different with different life experiences and this is very much reflected in the work of my students. One of my students, for example, makes stunning cakes but struggles to paint. Instead, she does beautiful sculptures with wonderful colour combinations and compositions. So I got her to do some polymer clay compositions to make 3D pictures and the results were amazing. It is about how she visualises it. Everyone sees the same picture in completely different ways.

For me, this is so fascinating, because in the Soviet Union, everyone was expected to be uniform – people’s creativity was literally bursting to get out.

Tell us about the exhibitions you have held in Istanbul

corner of it, even the fruit. Because Turkish people are the audience and they love their country, they love everything that reminds them of it.

What else have you been doing since coming to Istanbul?

For a year, I worked as a presenter on the Turkish TV channel, 6 News. It airs a 50-minute block of news in Arabic, Russian and English each day as well as in Turkish. I learned a great deal about the world doing that and I was working alongside some really very highly-educated people from ex-Soviet central Asian countries. I had one colleague from Tajikistan who spoke five languages fluently – Chinese, Iranian, Russian, English and Tajik.

I have had three now – two of them were of works of my students and one was of my own work. The students’ exhibitions were mixed media, reflecting all the changes in the world, including polymer clay on canvas, oil paintings and ceramics. The pictures are complex and all done with different techniques. One was held at a tennis club in 4.

Levent and we sold 60% of our work there – I am so proud of the students. The other was at Akatlar Kültür Merkezi, close to the Akmerkez centre. Again, this was a collection of mixedmedia pieces; watercolour on textiles, ceramics, acrylic, oil, polymer clay... This one was also very successful and sold nearly half the pieces in just four days. We were so surprised – I was worried no-one would come, but there were people waiting outside for us to open!

I am currently planning another of these exhibitions at the Levent tennis club for next spring. I am thinking of trying a private gallery as well, for a different experience. I particularly want to do a watercolour exhibition of my students’ work, using different techniques. It is magical as you never know what will come out and once you have done it, you can’t change it.

My solo exhibition was at the Vita Gallery in Osmanbey, a collection of watercolours on paper alongside watercolours with batik contouring on textile canvas to create a 3D effect.

The subject was Istanbul which I find so inspiring – every

After that, I had my daughter and then I studied watercolour painting with Burhan Özer, who is an amazing teacher. His abstract watercolours are very popular now in Spain, the US and Turkey. This was something that was very new for me, but very fascinating. And after that, I found a job as an interior designer with a firm of architects which was doing a project for the government of Turkmenistan. The project was six work buildings for high-ranking military and the president. This was amazing for me because when I first came to Turkey, I thought all the design would be very oriental but, no, everyone wants modern and minimalist. In Central Asia, though, that is not the case at all – there is lots of gold, intricate motifs on marble and cornicing etc. I spent six months working on that and it was a very interesting experience.

What other plans do you have for the future?

I am not rushing to build up my art business, although I am planning to concentrate more on teaching. Lots of Russians come to my classes but now other foreigners are coming too so I will start lessons in English alongside those in Russian.

Exhibitions take a lot of organising as well, so I have enough to do!

Opposite page top: “Spring” 2016, Inna Klimenk Çelmeoğlu; Polymer clay, oil and acrylic Top: “Sunset over Goldern Horn” 2015, Alla Guner; Oil on canvas Left: “Nar” 2016, Anna Surucu; Oil on canvas

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LALE CULTURE

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On its 10th anniversary in 2012, S.U. Sakıp Sabancı Museum (SSM) re-launched its ‘The Arts of the Book and the Calligraphy Collection’ at Atlı Köşk (Horse Mansion) with a new design and a contemporary display approach. The digitalized collection and archive provide a detailed look at the valuable and rare manuscripts of the Turkish and Islamic Art. Verena Ringe visited the exhibit

Top: calligrapher’s writing box, 18th century Bottom left:Album Sülüs and nesih scripts, a eulogy for the Prohpet couplets from Muhammad bin Said el-Busiri’s Kasidetü’l-Bürde Hafız Osman (d.1698) Above:Calligraphic exercises, Sülüs script Ahmed Karahısarı (d.1556)

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LALE CULTURE

M

ost of us know the SSM, the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, in Emirgan from its amazing exhibitions with international standards. But few have taken the time to visit at leisure the other features and exhibits on offer there.

This is well worth an effort. The visitor could perhaps use the offer of free entry on Wednesdays and savour the well-kept gardens, adorned with statues of various art forms and age.

This garden is a green oasis with a view over the Bosphorus, almost unequalled in Istanbul. The very air there feels leisurely and benches are thoughtfully placed to enjoy the views and flowers, trees and shrubs, many of which are rare specimens and labelled with their botanical names.

To decorate the Koran was, therefore, a challenge and the calligraphers used the written word as decoration itself.

The old handwritten legal and religious texts or poetry in flowing Arabic script are each and every one a piece of art.

The Arabic form of script differs not in content, or context, but has regional differences in style. Either thin, flowing lines, forming words as decorative as flowers, or rather simplified, stripped of all superfluousness - thick lines like decorations on art-deco vases. There is a wide field to be discovered. This museum does not just show these wonderful examples, but also teaches the visitor to distinguish different forms of writing. These styles have names such as “Sülüs”, “Nesih”, “Reyhani”, Muhakkak” or “Trevki.” They are easy to recognise, once noticed.

Gold and bright colours were favoured for the first letters of a page or paragraph, but the pitch-black ink was mostly used, especially for holy texts and the Koran. This was for a reason.

Most old mosques have built-in ingenious features to catch the smoke and soot of the thousands of candles lit in the praying room areas, to keep the air and the roofs clean. This soot was then used to produce ink to write holy texts. A type of ink of special significance, dying out with electricity and printing. The scribe of the holy text was highly revered in the Islamic societies.

The writing implements were, without question, also crafted with great care. Stylus, inkwell, brushes and their boxes are works of art. Inlaid with silver, gold, ivory and special stones, these tools are worthy of attention.

The white wooden house itself was built as a summer residence (a köşk) for the Sabancı family around 100 years ago and some of the ground floor rooms are open to visitors.

It shows how a wealthy family lived amongst their collected objects of art, paintings and furniture. Opulent carpets, gilded brass work, porcelain, fabrics, fireplaces, clocks and much more is on view. The chandeliers are especially noteworthy. Of a style completely to the Ottoman taste und very un-european, they nevertheless evoke an atmosphere of tiffany lamps of the art-nouveau era. There is a feeling of spaciousness throughout, as one room opens out to the next and high ceilings and wooden floors enrich the feeling of wellbeing. A wide staircase leads to an upper gallery, from which leads the permanent calligraphy exhibition.

This amazing collection is based on the interest of the family on the art of writing. Calligraphy, the written word, was an important part of the Ottoman Empire, its dominance, its art and lifestyle.

A few words to its historical origin: In early Christianity, the iconoclasm in Byzantine art and religion forbade depictions of god and saints and this philosophy led to an uprising that almost caused a civil war in the Byzantine Empire. This happened in the early days of the Muslim religion and was taken up by Islam, where even depictions of god-made nature were frowned upon by the strictest teachers at the time. This led to the marvellous symbolized, almost abstract decorations in the Islamic world and at times gives their oldest mosques and buildings a modern air.

Then there is the fun-section of the Calligraphy Museum.

On a screen, boats, fish, birds, owls and many other shapes float by. Each object is a word, cleverly formed to resemble a shape. The modern version is moving sunlight, formed in script, on water surfaces. Very clever, “now you see it, now you don’t.”

To round off this visit, enjoy a snack or a coffee in the museum cafeteria, or on its terrace, with one of the best views over the Bosphorus to be had in Istanbul.

Above: Third cüz of a Koran (Bakara: 253 - Al-i-İmran: 91) Muhakkak and Kufi scripts Ottoman, c. 1440 Below: Atlı Köşk, home of the calligraphy exhibit

LALE ART

FEATURE: MONISHA KAR. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ELGIZ MUSEUM, MONISHA KAR

FUGITIVE SHADOW “The difference between painting and sculpture is as great as between a shadow and the object casting it” Benvenuto Cellini

Nestled in the glass and steel skyscrapers of Maslak’s business district stands the Elgiz Museum, a hidden gem in Istanbul’s contemporary art scene.

Monisha Kar reports on this year’s 8th annual outdoor Terrace exhibit, which runs through November and features sculptures from 28 Turkish and International artists

S

tepping out of the Metro station on Beybigiz Plaza in Maslak, you would not expect to find a cutting edge art museum amongst the office buildings of one of the city’s main business hubs, yet the modern architecture of the area is a fitting backdrop for the Elgiz Museum’s eighth Terrace Exhibition ‘Fugitive Shadow which is a showcase for 28 up-andcoming Turkish and International artists.

This year’s exhibition is based on Plato’s Allegory of the Cave from his fifth century work, The Republic. The Allegory of the Cave is a dialogue surrounding the nature of reality with the shadows being a metaphor

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for the illusory world. The Terrace Exhibition invites us to reconsider our routine experiences with light and its fluctuations. One notices the interplay of the surrounding high rise buildings, the shifting daylight and changing of the seasons on the Terrace and the sculptures, which in part gave inspiration to this year’s theme.

Exiting the elevator on to the second floor terrace, visitors are welcomed to a panoramic view of the Maslak skyline and a thoughtfully curated space. Paved walking paths allow guests to explore the sculptures from different vantage points. Aside from the occasional crunch of gravel underfoot, it can be a surprisingly calm and quiet environment in which to absorb the artwork.

The exhibit opened May 31, 2016 and saw 500 people attend its opening event. Since the exhibit runs through November 12, visitors will have the chance to see how the sculptures change and adapt to the weather variations. Given the duration of the exhibit, the artists had to factor sustainability in the design and installation of their sculpture in order to withstand the elements of a terrace setting for six months.

This year’s selected artists answered an open call and their applications were evaluated by the Terrace Exhibition Advisory Committee consisting of academics and artists.

The exhibit is showing at Meydan Sokak, Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok, Maslak.

The museum is open Wednesday, Thursday, Friday 10am – 9pm; Saturday 10am – 4pm; Tuesday by appointment, and is Closed on SundayMonday and national holidays. Entrance is free. For more information, go to: elgizmuseum.org/en/ and Facebook: Elgiz Museum

HANDE ŞEKERCİLER A VIEW TO DEATH Hande Şekerciler’s “A View to a Death” is a depiction in contrasts.

Her use of epoxy and acrylics allows her characters who entertain horrid fantasies to look like sweet cartoons

ÇAĞDAŞ ERÇELİK ÖZDEMIR ASAF Of the famous Turkish poet that the sculpture is modeled after, Erçelik says, “I tried to create a sculpture of the poet in my image. I used an expressive style, so I prefer more simple forms of the body.”

MERT ÇIKILMAZKAYA FEAR OF THE SHADOW “Mankind fears to live in the world today because of life itself and also because of circumstances, hatred, betrayals, lies, conflicts and sometimes his own shadow. Man hides himself and traps himself from within. It may be to protect himself from others or to protect others from himself.”

CEM ÖZKAN ASTRONAUT “With this work I have tried to express the act of finding ourselves at the beginning of a journey with a pre dominance of curiousity in which at first being lost we eventually reach the greatest goal in history; finding ourselves at the end of the light.”

EMRE ÖZÇAYLAN MARGIN OF ERROR “The basic idea of the statue is an overly magnified idealized hand which is structurally incorrect, positioned correctly. The margin of error is a statistical theory and is basically the definition given for small amounts permitted on changed circumstances of miscalculation.”

LEVENT AYATA FIGURE “When the project was in its idea stage, it was 2015 “present time.” The project has now been realized and dated 2016 which is the actual present day. With this work, I wanted to witness and experience the conditions of time and location.”

S. TUĞÇE AYTÜRK MOMENT “In my art studies, I struggle with the fact that I both get ordinary material from life and I get stunning effects through the variety of processes I apply. The emotion of nature helps me in infusing life to my art, like a form of recycling.”

ARİF ÇEKDERİ EMPATHIC “A person’s opinion about other people is determined by the data that this person has. Thanks to this data, people try to understand each others’ feelings.

If there is no experience which has already been collected and embedded with an individual then there can neither be (no) empathy.”

ŞAHİN DOMİN LIGHTNESS “The increasing culture of violence all around the world restricts the freedom and peace at all fields of life and decreases the esteem of our inherent right to life. The work, a single wing coming out of the bird that lies on the ground, is a symbolic call for peace and liberty.”

ALİ KANAL S.A.K.K.A.S “I made this work by twining rubber bands on a metal construction, representing a figurative interlude between a human and a frog. The structure of the figure’s silhouette and it’s irregularity is designed to make it hard to discern, yet it is balanced by the pliancy of the gesture.”

MAHMUT AYDIN THREE MONKEYS “We are offered many colourful and enticing fictions everyday. The twisted and meaningless lies waste our time and attempt to eliminate our individuality and to create a passive community. See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.”

MÜJGAN SAĞLAM NAILS “Corruption and disorder caused by ‘man made culture’ has led me to a natural life. I have designed sculptures which are inspired by aesthetic elements and essentials, which I observe in nature such as dynamics, rhythm, contrast, emphasis and empathy.”

SEMRA ÖZÜMERZİFON WRITHING SHADOW “This sculpture represents the struggle of the shadows to set themselves free from their chronic misleading condition, writhing and stretching in circular movements, collaborating with the material, the fishing nets.”

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r Children and Adult Groups Saturday / Sunday 9.30 - 12.30

Starting October 8th 2016.

Apply early as high competition for limited number of places!

Learn how to sing, dance and act, not only to perform on stage, but more importantly to perform better in life.

For almost 25 years Speech Bubbles Theatre has been performing in order to support charities focused on supporting children and education. We have seen people gain conďŹ dence, stretch themselves, and build essential life skills while learning the tools to sing, dance and act and most importantly have fun!

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SPONSORED FEATURE Alice Greenway came to Istanbul to study Turkish and learnt to love swimming in the Bosphorus while she was at it

A WORLD BEYOND THE WALLS

GOING WITH THE GOING WITH THE FLOW FLOW

‘Bostanci Deniz Hamami’, (‘Sea Bath at Bostanci’),

by Halil Pasha, 1913, from the Sakip Sabanci Museum, Emirgan

126 CORNUCOPIA

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30/05/16 12:36

yapi kredi selahattin giz collection

“We need to get you into the Bosphorus.”

The Ottoman scholar and Cornucopia correspondent Caroline Finkel takes charge, making a date to meet at the local Kuzguncuk plaj. I’m thrilled. I am one of those people who are addicted to swimming and find it hard to pass any inviting body of water without launching myself in. By the following week I’m registered to swim in the annual Bosphorus Cross-Continental Swimming Race. But, stepping down from the crumbling sea wall onto a wet, weedy rock, I find myself on the edge of a raging current. Up close, the Bosphorus rushes past in eddies and ripples, washes around my ankles and slaps hard against the shore. “Aren’t you going in?” Caroline asks.

Having recently waymarked a longdistance trail following the hoofprints of the great 17th-century Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebi, Caroline is now trailblazing walks in the outskirts of the city – a bid to make Istanbullus aware of their countryside before it disappears (hikingistanbul.org).

I hate to disappoint. But the only current I have swum in that comes close is a tidal river in Massachusetts where my nephew once got swept out to sea and had to be rescued by kayakers. I peer downstream. If I am pulled out by the current here I’ll be carried down through the busy ferry traffic at Üsküdar, right past the Maiden’s Tower, and out towards the Sea of Marmara. Just then, two skinny boys come floating by…

yapi kredi selahattin giz collection (bottom right); alice greenway (top

tim cornwell

Alice Greenway went to Istanbul to study Turkish and learnt to love swimming in the Bosphorus while she was at it

yapi kredi selahattin giz collection (bottom right); alice greenway (top)

Kuzguncuk Plaji “We need to get you into the Bosphorus.”

The Ottoman scholar and Cornucopia correspondent Caroline Finkel takes charge, making a date to meet at the local Kuzguncuk plaj. I’m thrilled. I am one of those people who are addicted to swimming and find it hard to pass any inviting body of water without launching myself in. By the following week I’m registered to swim in 2013’s annual Bosphorus Cross-Continental Swimming Race. But, stepping down from the crumbling sea wall onto a wet, weedy rock, I find myself on the edge of a raging current. Up close, the Bosphorus rushes past in eddies and ripples, washes around my ankles and slaps hard against the shore.

“Aren’t you going in?” Caroline asks.

Having recently waymarked a longdistance trail following the hoofprints of the great 17th-century Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebi, Caroline is now trailblazing walks in the outskirts of the city – a bid to make Istanbullus aware of their countryside before it disappears.

I hate to disappoint. But the only current I have swum in that comes close is a tidal river in Massachusetts where my nephew once got swept out to sea and had to be rescued by kayakers. I peer downstream. If I am pulled out by the current here I’ll be carried down through the busy ferry traffic at Üsküdar, right past the Maiden’s Tower, and out towards the Sea of Marmara.

Luckily for me, Caroline has brought along another friend, the former journalist

September, October 2016

SPONSORED FEATURE LALE SPECIAL OFFER

This picture: Moda Bay in the 1950s

Left The diving tower of the Left: Greenway joins “It used to be all Bosphorus people who

The Bosphorus Boys

ARTS OF THE ISLAMIC WORLD AUCTION LONDON OCTOBER 2016

Now accepting consignments

A rare Iznik lavender-ground pottery matara, Turkey, late 16th century Ex-collection Octave Borelli Bey (1849-1911) Estimate £40,000–60,000. Sold for £389,000 Enquiries +44 (0)20 7493 5113 benedict.carter@sothebys.com 34–35 New Bond Street, London W1A 2AA sothebys.com/islamic

CORN COVER_54.indd 1

54

ISSUE FIFTY-FOUR 2016

September, October 2016

During my last week in Istanbul, AygĂźl and I decide to test out our new-found expertise.

Too dignified to jump from the park, she DUUDQJHV WR PHHW DW WKH \DOĂŞ RI KHU IULHQG 0HKPHW 0RUDOĂŞRĂĽOX :H DJUHH WR VZLP in sundresses over bathing suits, allowing

This extract is from Cornucopia No 54 (TL40 from Robinson Crusoe, Denizler, Patika, Homer Eren, Pandora, D&R and other good bookshops). For special Cornucopia offers for IWI members, including books and post-free gift subscriptions, visit cornucopia.net/iwi-offer

LANDMARKS OF VAN . GENTILE BELLINI . KĂœĂ‡ĂœKSU KASRI . ISTANBUL FLORA . SWIMMING THE BOSPHORUS

Cornucopia dives into late summer

piano, a chest of glassware and a grand wooden staircase originally from an older house. A pair of flippers rests against the bottom step. $ORQJ ZLWK WKH ROGHU 2WWRPDQ \DOĂŞ QH[W door, the property has been in the family for at least five generations, Mehmet says.

Many siblings share it, but they manage to hold on to it. Mehmet grew up swimming the Bosphorus and would often swim down to Kuzguncuk and back. He doesn’t do it much any more because it’s dirty. We’ve been lucky this month because of a steady north wind, he says. A south wind brings garbage floating back up and swarms of jellyfish.

Undeterred, AygĂźl and I perch on the wall at the edge of his garden, shaded by plum trees dripping with fruit, a broadleaved fig tree and a tall daphne. sLYLOHPH, AygĂźl instructs, meaning jump like a nail, which she will do. I am to EDOĂŞNODPD, dive like a fish. We plunge in and swim out to avoid the lines of men fishing from the

Top Leaping into the

parks downstream. The current grows faster the furtherin outKuzguncuk. we go. We are swept Bosphorus down past the small wooden Ăœryanizade On good years, this rite mosque, its minaret jutting up a lighthouse; girl lounging by oflike summer canpast beaenjoyed a small private pool; past pretty wooden well into November houses overhanging the water. “They’ve never seenBoÄ&#x;aziçi anything likeUniversity it!â€? AygĂźl shouts as Above someone on shore stops to take our photo. language students cool off It is late afternoon, and the sun is starting to dip in the sky. Far downstream, we see the outlines of the glorious domes and PLQDUHWV RI 6XOWDQDKPHW RI 7RSNDSĂŞ Palace, the SĂźleymaniye and the Yeni11:05 Cami.

26/05/16 I think of the protesters’ word, ĂśzgĂźrlĂźk, freedom, as I realise I am no longer scared of being swept away. I am thinking of how much fun I’ve had at the Kuzguncuk plaj and the importance of small, shady, open spaces, whether beaches or parks or vegetable gardens, and the happiness they can give. “Shall we come with you?â€? a group of SWIMMING THE boysBOSPHORUS shout out as we pass, jumping in VENTURE VAN laugh. behind us.TOWe AygĂźl and I, two mature women, floating PLANT-HUNTING IN ISTANBUL in sundresses, have joined the ranks of the Bosphorus boys. X CORNUCOPIA

some 355 women Beyaz OLYHG LQ \DOĂŞVĹ˜ D IULHQG RI $\JÄžOĹ–V VD\V Park Plaji in braving the watersruefully, in when we stop for tea and cake. She BĂźyĂźkdere, on“People the upper the annual Bosphorus grew up in Emirgan. here used to Cross-ContinentalBosphorus. be in touch with the had rowing In sea. theThey early Swimming Race boats. They would take their boats out Republic swimming became a and swim. Now they are newcomers. The houses aren’t sport lived in. for Now people national boys go and elsewhere in summer, or swim in their girls.

In 1926, the inBeyaz pools.� She asks notwhen to be named case this insults her neighbours. Because of Turkish custom, by which houses are passed down to all descendants, she says, too many people Corn 54 126-131 yeni resim 126 ile.indd 127 wind up owning part of a house, and eventually they have to sell.

She has a point about wealthy Istanbul.

Catching the tourist hop-on-hop-off ferry from Emirgan back across and down the Asian side, we pass beautiful mansions with shuttered windows and empty gardens.

But boys and men are jumping in from every public space, every park or informal plaj, every pier or staircase leading down into the water.

The diving tower of the Beyaz Park Plaji, which

Park opened, AtatĂźrk helped in BĂźyĂźkdere, us to walkopened up the road and back home. on the upper Bosphorus, to0HKPHWĹ–V \DOĂŞ LV WKH ODVW KRXVH EHIRUH quash attempts by the in 1926.

Encouraged the Bosphorus Bridge, just beforeby the gates owners of a neighbouring AtatĂźrk, swimming of the Naval Academy.

Built by his became nationalto sport grandparents, this a 19th-century white women’s sea hamam have it for boys and girls wooden house has peeling paint, slightly closed down.

The plaj sagging shutters and a small porch with stained-glass Inside is an 1980s old survived windows. into the early

alice greenway

alice greenway

Leaping into the Bosphorus: a rite of summer – though not often, these days, for women and girls

CORNUCOPIA Turkey for Connoisseurs

Issue 54 2016

DIVE INTO SUMMER

A 42-page celebration of the lake, the landscapes, the monuments

The city’s last wild places

Plus A pocket tour of Aegean sites The wedding-cake pavilion

$OLFH *UHHQZD\ D IUHTXHQW YLVLWRU WR ,VWDQEXO LV WKH DXWKRU RI Ĺ•:KLWH *KRVW *LUOVĹ– ĆŹĆŞĆŞĆą DQG Ĺ•7KH %LUG 6NLQQHUĹ– ĆŹĆŞĆŤĆŽ

31/05/16 13:01

CORNUCOPIA 131

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LALE TRAVEL

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

AN EXPLORATORY JOURNEY THROUGH NORTHEASTERN TURKEY Would you prefer a last digestif at the coastal bar, a hot air balloon ride over the magical inlands or rather an educational trip to Turkey’s countless historic sites? Annette Fleck opted for a mix of all three and explored the ‘green coastal slopes’ of the Black Sea

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A

rriving in Ataturk airport heading to the gate to our flight to Trabzon, we were suddenly encircled by jovial tourists from the Gulf, who were apparently hoping to spend a few refreshing days in the colder northern coast. These unexpected companions were to accompany us through the valleys, hilltops, castles, monasteries, and meadows of Ayder and the Schwarzwald panorama of Uzungöl.

The flight to Trabzon, the city in Turkey’s most northeastern corner, was calm and the clear skies allowed us to closely watch the landscape below. Approaching Trabzon we could clearly see the Pontic mountain chain decorate the nearby coast like a long khaki latch. Its highest peaks, the Kaçkar mountains, loomed in the distance beyond Trabzon. We also saw flocks of small puffy cumulus clouds on the slopes to the north of the sharper mountain peaks. My instincts as a geography teacher set in, and I could not help but ponder how northern winds are likely to force the clouds up the stern Pontic slopes, causing them to unleash most of their rainy baggage before reaching the other side. This of course results in wonderful lush meadows, colorful flora, thick woodlands, and rapid streams on the mountains northern side. It was this exact vivacious melting pot of juicy green vegetation that we were looking to explore during our journey.

And as we were cruising along this rich scenery in our seats in the sky, I was just hoping that we would be spared the same frequent precipitation which rendered this area unique.

The weather ended up being rather kind to us. On some days we were able to see the snow-covered mountain peaks under a radiant sun. On others we were forced to concentrate on the road ahead, to avoid hitting approaching cars in what was a thick coastal fog. I suppose the moody weather we experienced was typical for the season, and thus had added a sense of realism to our whole trip.

We spent the first day of our journey in the city center of Trabzon. We strolled around the Meydan Parkı, lingered in the shade of the large oak trees and watched the busy street bustle nearby. We headed through the busy pedestrian shopping zone to the small St. Anna church. The latter was constructed during the Byzantine times and is the oldest remaining church in the city. We continued through the bazar to the medieval fortress. The mighty walls still remind us today of the importance that the city once had in its Byzantine heyday. Following the conquest of Trapezunt, the city’s Byzantine name, by Sultan Mehmet II in 1461, the city was given somewhat of an Islamic facelift. The Hagia Sophia church was spared, and so we soon spotted a scenic knoll to the west. Today it functions both as a church and a museum.

We take a well-deserved tea break in the church garden and observe two young newlyweds who had chosen this romantic sight as the location for their wedding shots.

Of course, the medieval charm of Trabzon’s inner city, is not representative of the entire city. Outside the historic centres, vast new neighborhoods of ubiquitous white cement were built. Interspersed between new apartment blocks are sizeable parks which accommodate the interests of a rapidly growing population. At sunset we drove to the Boztepe hill and enjoyed the splendid views of the city, below it, while enjoying some more tea and an apple-mint Shisha.

On our second day, we finally made our way into the mountains. We drove through the wildly romantic Altıntaş valley to the Greek orthodox monastery of Sumela – which lies majestically above the valley. While most visitors drive straight up the winding road to the monastery, we decided to stretch our legs a bit and hike to Sumela. The climb turned out to be more challenging than expected, but we were rewarded repeatedly with breathtaking views of the valley. Upon arrival at the monastery, we found to our disappointment that the entire premise is closed for restoration. The disappointment however subsided quickly, as we satisfied our appetite in a lovely seafood restaurant along the rapid Altıntaş stream. It was not the last time on our journey that we were to enjoy wonderfully fresh trout. For where else could they be more succulent, than from right at the source of the Kaçkar mountains?

The drive from the Black Sea coast to the Georgian border was not as spectacular as expected. The broad highway cuts through the country side leaving it in quite an inharmonious state. However, as we approached the provincial city Rize, it became more and more difficult to overlook the well-kept tea plantations. Like a thick carpet they nestle up against the hill slopes. Rize has become a center of the Turkish tea industry, due to its near ideal natural conditions. The high humidity and balanced climate assure reliable yearly yields. Nonetheless, the tea industry in Rize is rather young.

Opposite page: Cloudmist in Ayder Left: Ayasofya Museum in Trabzon Top right: Altındere River Bottom left: Ardeşen at the Fırtına River

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LALE TRAVEL Only after the Ottoman Empire had lost its coffee plantations in the Near East, was the tea industry launched in the 1930s – with great success.

Wanting to taste the tea ‘at the source’, we sat down at a particularly welcome-looking plantation to enjoy a cup of freshly brewed tea. At this plantation we also found out that the tea production is in fact predominantly overseen by a large state enterprise. The actual plantations are run by small farmers, who still engage in tough manual labor to prepare their fields. While sipping on our tea we were able to observe various crouched famers on the field, as they were cutting off the small tea leaves. There could be no doubt that this was a strenuous task.

The roads and routes of the northeast are generally adequately signposted. Although we sometimes did have to ask around to find the way, this was always a welcome excuse to interact with the locals. In one such conversation, a very friendly female farmer told us that she was originally Georgian. She wore a traditional Georgian gown, and pointed out that in her valley close to the Georgian border, the elderly still dressed according to the ancient ways.

In the Fırtına Valley, the tea plantations extend far into the mountains. But the people here do not solely rely on tea as a source of income. Tourism has become another important economic sector. Rafting tours and hiking trails are advertised here and there and for the younger more adrenaline-oriented tourists, sky diving and base jumping opportunities abound as well.

The area around Çamlıhemşin is the home of the Hemşinli, an Armenian speaking ethnic minority of Islamic faith. Women clad in colourful garb offered the regional products of which the most lucrative seemed to be honey from the foothills of the Kaçkar Daǧı, the highest peak of the Pontic mountain rage, which stands at 3932 metres in altitude.

While the Hemşinli have traditionally populated the hilly hinterland, the Lasen prefer the coastal plains. The Lasen are an originally Georgian-orthodox ethnic minority which settled the coastal area in the early middle ages, and then converted to Islam in the 15th century. Although we assume to have encountered many Lasen during our travels, we cannot be assured since they are no longer discernible – at least not for us – from the Turkish majority.

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Is it also due to the Georgian tradition that the wooden mosques have survived in this part of the country? One could suppose so. In any case, our meandering drive through the nebulous mountain passes, slowly but surely turned into an unforgettable experience. Finally approaching the wellguarded and tightly sealed Georgian border, I could not help but feel like I was in the back of beyond. And then suddenly, a small squeaking door in an adjacent wooden mosque opened, and out of it seeped swathes of a sweet and tar-like smell which immediately reminded me of the wooden stave churches of Scandinavia. Pondering this rather weird and unlikely comparison I couldn’t help but feel how small and connected our world really is.

LALE TRAVEL Despite the intensity and dramatic charm of the cloudy backlands, it was time we headed back to the coast and explored the other side of the Pontic mountains. And fortunately enough, the sun did reappear and accompanied us down the valley as we descended along the Çoruh River.

Along our side we witnessed how the valley is changing due to a gigantic hydro-electric construction project which will result in 15 dams by 2018. We were fortunate to still be able to enjoy the views from Yusufeli, the largest village in the valley with around 15,000 inhabitants.

under construction. The wonderful embellishments of the portal and the minaret from the Seljuk period (1260 AD) are among the beautiful that I saw during our journey.

At a local Cağ Kebab, where the waiters serve delicious juicy Kebab before one has even seen the menu, we sat down for one last time before flying back home. We reminisced about

Between Artvin and Yusufeli, the road took us through one tunnel after another. And when the tunnel ended we had to cross over scary and unstable looking suspension bridges.

But there was no alternative. So at times we just closed our eyes and continued driving. At least I did, as did the co-pilot.

The landscape surrounding the Çoruh-Fluss is famous for its mountainous character and its many dispersed church ruins, which remind us of the former Georgian kingdom of Tao Klardshetien (7th to 12th century AD). The majority of the ruins are literally ruined, and in such a dire state that not much more can be done to salvage them. However, in the tiny village of İșhan, the village church was being restored.

Although the restoration work is not yet complete, the mighty walls of the cathedral and the exquisite decoration on its walls hint at the importance it once enjoyed.

The Tortum, a tributary of the Çoruh river, comes down from a mountain pass of 2090 metres, the highest on our journey.

From there we continued on the plateau to Erzurum, a rather faceless, bland village at the foot of the Palandöken ski resort. Perhaps it is due to the devastating earthquake of 1939, which left much of the city in ruins. We start looking for the announced historical sights from the Seljuk and Ottoman times. From the citadel on the old city knoll, we catch a nice view of the whole city. Unfortunately, we can only guess the full beauty of the Çifte Minareli Medrese which is presently

what we had seen, and wish to be able to return one day, and observe all that has changed. Maybe then we would be fortunate enough to catch some sunny weather at the peaks of the Kaçkar mountains. The nebulous mountain pastures certainly also had their charm, but they did not really encourage hiking, something I would love to do next time around.

Opposite page clockwise from top right: Kavran River in Kaçkar National Park; Waterfall in Ayder; The green slopes of Kaçkar Mountain; Zilkale, a medieval castle located in Fırtına Valley; This page clockwise from top right: Sheep in the mountains close to the Georgian border; Wooden mosque in Camili town near the Georgian border; Çoruh River reservoir; Tea plantation at the Fırtına River; Suspension bridge over Altırparmak River, Yusufeli

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Every month the IWI hosts many fun cultural and lifestyle events. Here is what’s coming up as we enter autumn

LALE CALENDAR

Monday

Tuesday

Wednesday

6

7

12

13

14

Asian Side Coffee

26

Monday

20

10

17

Thai Cooking

Friday

2

18

15

16

17

18

23

24

25

Aikido Lesson

29

Istanbul Orientation Walking Tour

24 Kuzguncuk Coffee25 and Culture Walk

Mezze Class

26

Contrasting Neighbourhoods 2

30

Friday

Thursday

19

4

11

28

5

Sunday

10

October 2016

4

3

9

22

Wednesday

Saturday

8

Contrasting Neighbourhoods 1

European Side Coffee

11 12 Asian Side Coffee Turkish Breakfast

Turkish Culture

1

21

Elgiz Fugitive Shadow Exhibition

27

Tuesday

3

46

Thursday

5

19

Season Opening Meeting

September 2016

Saturday

Sunday 1

2

6

7

8

9

Taco Bar Evening

13

14

15 Photography Walk

16

Tennis Lesson

20

21

22

23

European Side Coffee

28

29

30

Büyükada Tour

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LALE EVENTS CONTRASTING NEIGHBOURHOODS 1: KARAKÖY, THE GOLDEN HORN, BALAT AND FENER. Through the fascinating port of Karakoy with its decrepit structures and hip cafe life we stroll through one of Istanbul’s most contrasting neighbourhoods.

This walk, with well-known expat guide Monica Fritz, will take us through some of the oldest Istanbul neighbourhoods on both sides of the Golden Horn. Starting at the 14th century Galata tower we will walk down back streets and steep hills with interesting narrow views and elegant European architecture.

Continuing down past remnants of the mediaeval city of Pera and the old synagogue, we arrive at the Persembe Pazar, a workers’ area with a lively and colourful hardware bazaar and tucked away we will visit a beautiful caravansary built by the Sultan’s architect Mimar Sinan, still atmospheric with its workshops, and blackened walls, kittens and artists’ studios.

ELGIZ MUSEUM OUTDOOR SCULPTURE EXHIBITION – FUGITIVE SHADOW

Before jumping onto the Golden Horn ferry we visit a Russian Orthodox church hidden away on the top floor of a century old apartment building and lunch in a local established eatery.

Zig zagging up the Golden Horn we will discover the changing neighbourhoods of Balat and Fener. Once the old Jewish quarter, and still the centre of the Greek Orthodox Patriarch.

These picturesque neighbourhoods along the shores are scattered with small wooden houses, Greek Orthodox churches and synagogues, steep hills and hanging laundry, unique in atmosphere. Precious to photograph before it is not completely gentrified.

Date

Thursday, September 8

Time

10.00am – 2.30pm

Location

Galata

Cost

Basic members: 75 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 65 TL Guests: 85 TL programs@iwi-tr.org

Participants

Minimum: 7, Maximum: 15

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by September 5

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

The stunning location of the museum and its terrace, in the heart of the Maslak business district and encircled by sky scrapers, gives rise to changing light conditions and makes it a special atmosphere in which to view sculpture. The artworks create dialogues around the shadow both in metaphor and through aesthetic representation. The works selected for the 8th Terrace exhibition promise to make it an Elgiz Museum classic and are an homage to Benvenuto Cellini and other great sculpture artists.

Our guide, Kimberley Ann Duyguluer, is a Canadian expat working as the International Relations Coordinator for the Elgiz museum. She has a degree in Art Criticism and Curatorial Practice and will be delighted to lead our tour and conversation of the exhibition and its works. Light refreshments will be served, on the terrace of course! For those who wish, we can also visit the summer exhibition from the Elgiz permanent collection.

Calling all art lovers, as well as photographers! IWI members are invited to our own private tour of a superb exhibition at the Elgiz Museum, a hidden gem of the Istanbul art scene.

On this occasion, we will be visiting the Museum’s 8th Terrace Exhibition, which invites us to reconsider our routine experiences with light and its fluctuations. “Fugitive Shadow” is an outdoor sculpture exhibition, showcasing 29 works

by Turkish and International artists. The theme is based upon Plato’s Allegory of the Cave - a dialogue surrounding the nature of reality with shadows being a metaphor for the illusory world.

Date

Wednesday, September 21

Time

10.30am

Location

Elgiz Museum, Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok, Maslak

Cost

Basic members: 15 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 10 TL Guests: 20 TL

Participants

Minimum: 6, Maximum: 25

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, September 18

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS CONTRASTING NEIGHBOURHOODS 2: FROM TRENDY PERA TO THE SACRED EYUP MOSQUE Photographing alternative views of the city, with a possible visit to an artist’s workshop. Through the fascinating port of Karaköy with its decrepit structures and hip cafe life we stroll through one of Istanbul’s most contrasting neighbourhoods.

Before jumping onto the Golden Horn ferry we visit a Russian Orthodox church hidden away on the top floor of a century old apartment building. Lunch in a local established eatery.

On to cross the Golden Horn with the ferry or a fisherman’s boat to visit the sacred Eyup mosque complex with its stunning İznik tiles and very conservative and holy atmosphere. We will end with a ferry back down to Karaköy, Eminönü or Üsküdar.

Would you like to share a walking tour with IWI friends on a Saturday? Calling all working ladies, those who partners would like to experience the good times with us, and your (older) children, take a fascinating tour of lesser known parts of our wonderful city.

This walk, with well-known expat guide Monica Fritz, will start near Tünel in Pera. Commencing at the 14th century tower, we go through Galata’s back streets and hills, past remnants of the mediaeval city of Pera in and out of historical buildings and down to the Perşembe Pazar, a workers’ area with Byzantine caravansaries, and the lively hardware bazaar, workshops, and some lesser known but worthy restaurants.

PHOTOGRAPHY WALK ISTANBUL OVER AND UNDER

What better to do on a Saturday than pick up your camera and head out with IWI friends, under the expert guidance of photographer Monica Fritz? Working ladies, partners and your (older) children, will love the opportunity to see a different angle on Istanbul, the most photogenic of cities.

This walk starts in the crowded Spice market where we will take off and walk through the lively side streets filled with smells of coffee and spices. If open and restoration work has finished, we will go up some side stairs to the exquisite Mimar Sinan mosque, Rüstem Paşa with its tiled filled courtyard and breathtaking 16th century Iznik tiled interior.

The colourful marketplace’s winding streets lead us to the city’s oldest Caravansary, once the centre for the Egyptian

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Date

Saturday, Sep 24

Time

10.00am – 2.30pm

Location

Galata – details of meeting point will be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 75 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 65 TL Guests: 85 TL

Participants

Minimum: 7, Maximum: 15

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Thursday, Sep 21

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

honey trade and which was connected by an underground passage to Aya Sofia. Continuing up a hill and onto the terrace of a student cafe with a spectacular view of the Suleymaniye mosque complex to one side and to the other, the Golden Horn opening of the Bosphorus, we can sit and have a tea, change lens perhaps, and enjoy the light and the unusual perspective over the rooftops. Moving on through the small side passages, we walk down one of Istanbul’s most lively streets, visiting a 100-year old Candy shop, and into an ancient caravansary’s courtyard - taking us to a completely different atmosphere of silence and peacefulness.

Then it’s back into the crowded streets and on to the quaint Cibali neighbourhood of traditional wooden houses. Passing from an atmosphere of old Anatolia to the more gentrified and hip Fener, we stop for a coffee. This walk is about 4.5km, allowing plenty of time to capture your images along the way.

There will be a lunch stop in a local café.

Date

Saturday, October 15

Time

10.00am – 2:30pm

Location

Details of meeting point will be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 75 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 65 TL Guests: 85 TL

Participants

Minimum: 7, Maximum: 15

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Wednesday, October 12

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

LALE EVENTS AIKIDO CLASS AND DAILY SPA ENTRANCE The famous American martial arts specialist Teddy Wilson will introduce us to Aikido.

We start with a 5-minute warm up, continuing with a lesson on body balance. Then we move on to “low impact under cardio,” and some strengthening exercises for the lower and upper body. All muscle groups will be worked in 120 minutes using 108 different exercises! We will also do corrective exercises for posture, flexibility, “rotation” and end with stretching to relax. Musical rhythms are used as an essential element of the class. After class, you can take advantage of the Marriott’s luxurious spa for the remainder of the day, which includes a swimming pool, hamam, sauna, jacuzzi, fitness suite, and snow fountain (all day).

Aikido is a modern Japanese martial art, often translated as “the way of unifying (with) life energy”, or as “the way of harmonious spirit.” The goal was to create an art that practitioners could use to defend themselves while also protecting their attacker from injury; it focuses not on punching or kicking opponents, but instead on using their own energy to gain control or throw them away from you. It places emphasis on motion and the dynamics of movement.

Practitioners can find many things in Aikido – a self-defence technique, spiritual enlightenment, physical health, peace of mind.

Date

Thursday, September 29

Time

11.00am

Location

Istanbul Marriott Hotel Şişli | Abide-i Hurriyet Caddesi No.142, Şişli

Cost

Basic members :90 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 85 TL Guests: 100 TL

Participants

Minimum 10, Maximum 45

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, October 24

Contact

programs@iwi-tı.org

ISTANBUL ORIENTATION – A GUIDED WALK ESPECIALLY FOR NEWCOMERS street of Istiklal to Tünel, we pass the iconic Galata tower. When we arrive at SALT, the former Ottoman Bank, we discover the public library and English bookshop, and take a lunch stop.

After our break, we will buy the essential travel pass “Istanbulkart” and top it up for new users. We then travel by tram and ferry to the Asian side where Kadiköy market will provide the perfect setting to sample traditional Turkish coffee cooked in ashes and taste Turkish delight from the original makers. We finish by exploring the bustling spice market of Kadiköy to ‘shop like a local’.

Especially for newcomers to Istanbul, but of course open to all, this is an opportunity to quickly learn the layout of the city and how to navigate around it – explore the central trendy districts, understand the public transport network, learn a few tips about shopping, and pick up some important first words of Turkish!

Our guide, Monica Fritz, is a New Yorker who has lived here for 20 years. Well known to expats for her in-depth walking and photography tours, she is providing this tour tailored just for us. We will start in Cihangir, a pretty, bohemian neighbourhood with lively nightlife and pop into a mosque with a beautiful Bosphorus view. Next up is Çukurcuma, a ‘must’ for antique and curiousity shop lovers. Strolling back streets packed with art galleries, onto the main pedestrian

Monica is passionate about Istanbul, speaks fluent Turkish and can answer almost any question about living in this remarkable city. On this tour, we think you will find out why living here is a joy.

Date

Friday, September 30

Time

10.30am

Location

Meeting point will be in the Cihangir area, details to be advised participants

Cost

Basic members: 75 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 70 TL Guests: 80 TL

Participants

Minimum: 6, Maximum: 15

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Tuesday, September 27

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

49

LALE EVENTS THAI COOKING CLASS This Thai cookery demonstration will include instruction on how to prepare: • • • • • • •

Prawn cake Chicken Satay with peanut sauce Deep fried bread stuffed with mince prawn and chicken A variety of chicken meatballs Tom yam dry noodles Wanton soup Glass noodles salad

Thai cuisine is among the best in the world, so don’t miss this opportunity to learn the skills to impress your family and friends.

Have you ever wanted to learn how to create the delicate, delicious flavours of Thai cuisine? Well look no further. Come along to our exciting Thai Cookery Class, to be held in October in Maslak.

Date

Tuesday, October 4

Time

10.30am - 2.00pm

Location

The class teacher, Wandee Kawaguchi, is a culinary instructor from Thailand, whose family were Thai restaurant owners in Bangkok. Wandee has been sharing her love of cooking Thai food through workshops and classes all over the world, including Singapore, Romania and Spain. She now provides her own homemade Asian food, Wandee Cuisine, here in Istanbul.

Maslak (detailed information to be provided to registrants)

Cost

Basic members: 140 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 130 TL Guests: 155 TL

Participants

Minimum 6, Maximum 10

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, Oct 1

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

BÜYÜKADA TOUR making ritual which is still performed by many today, and see the curious display of items said to have been buried during the crusades for safe-keeping, only to be unearthed by Aya Yorgi. Descending the hill to climb the second one, Isa Tepesi (‘Jesus Hill’), we will see the Greek Orthodox Orphanage – the largest timber building in Europe. The island’s architecture also includes the charming Splendid Palas hotel (where Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson stayed in 1936), Hamidiye mosque, orthodox churches, and some beautiful historic mansions.

Büyükada is the largest of the Princes Islands. Located in the Sea of Marmara, near Istanbul, the islands are so-called because of their use during Byzantine times to imprison those who were seen as a threat, such as relatives of the royal family. Today, the island is a lovely, car-free, retreat from the bustle of Istanbul.

We will travel from both the Asian and European sides by ferry, meeting up with our guide at the historic Ottoman ferry terminal on Büyükada. Nilgün, a long-standing member and former Chairwoman of the IWI, has kindly offered to host us on a tour of the island which is her home, taking in several interesting sites and wonderful views from its twin hilltops.

Büyükada is home to one of only two sacred Christian pilgrimage sites in Turkey – the Aya Yorgi church and monastery, dating back to the 6th century. We will walk, or use a horse-drawn carriage (phaeton) to reach the church at the summit of Yücetepe. Here we will learn of the wish-

50

Ferries run to Büyükada from Kabataş, Beşiktaş, Kadiköy and Bostanci – details of travel plans will be advised to those who register. Please note that this will require a full day to take advantage of all that Büyükada has to offer, and participants should be happy to walk the hills. A lunch stop will be made at one of the island’s characterful seafood restaurants.

Costs for lunch, ferry, and phaeton will be paid directly by participants.

Date

Thursday, October 6

Time

9.30 approximately at Bostanci (Asia) or Kabataş (Europe) ferry terminal – to be aligned with ferry winter timetables

Location

Büyükada

Cost

Basic members: 10 TL Classic, Business and honorary members: 10 TL Guests: 15 TL

Participants

Minimum: 6, Maximum: 20

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, October 3

Contact

programs@IWI-tr.org

LALE EVENTS TURKISH BREAKFAST AT HOME – ESPECIALLY FOR NEWCOMERS

Welcoming our newcomers to Istanbul, we would like to offer you the chance to learn about the rather special Turkish breakfast in the comfort of the beautiful home of one of our longest-standing members. Start to understand the culture, traditions and cuisine of your new home country, make friends and ask some of the ‘locals’ about how they have adjusted to living in this wonderful city. Food is a universal language that not only gives pleasure to the soul but also brings people together with laughter and warmth. Our long time board member Ayşe Yücel is famed for her interest and expertise in Turkish food, as well as for her warm hospitality.

Enjoy a privileged taste of Turkish hospitality with a traditional Turkish breakfast/ brunch in her home in Yeniköy.

Turkish Breakfast, open- buffet style (“Açık Büfe”) ; • Various Turkish cheeses • Different varieties of olives • Homemade jams • Tomatoes and cucumbers • Menemen (scrambled eggs Turkish-style) • Different kinds of Börek (delicious savoury cheese / meat pastries) • Gözleme (traditional savoury pastry, filled, and griddled) • Acura (a tomato and walnut spread) • Sliced hotdogs in tomato sauce ( Turkish style) • Simit, and other kinds of typical breads • Fruit • Turkish tea/ Turkish coffee Date

Wednesday, October 12

Time

11.00am

Location

Ayşe’s home in Yeniköy (details to be provided to participants)

Cost

Basic members: 50 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 45 TL Guests: 55 TL

Participants

Minimum: 12, Maximum: 20

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, October 9

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

TACO THURSDAY WELCOME NIGHT Los Altos will prepare our own private all-you-can-eat buffet, including a wide variety of tacos - a very tasty, alternative eating experience. The terrace encourages mingling that will ensure a sociable evening, helped along by the included Margarita cocktail!

Let the fun begin, come along with your friends or just to meet new ones.

The IWI welcomes all its members, and especially those ladies who are working during the day, as well as partners, to join together for a fun evening out in the nightlife heart of the city.

Date

Thursday, October 13

Time

7.00pm

Location

Los Altos restaurant, Beyoǧlu

Cost

Basic members: 60 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 55 TL Guests: 70 TL

Participant

Minimum: 10, Maximum: 50

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, October 10

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

We have selected the venue of Los Altos Mexican restaurant for its lively, entertaining atmosphere, as well as the outstanding view across the Golden Horn to Sultanahmet from the glass-covered terrace (may be fully open-air, depending on the weather!).

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LALE EVENTS TURKISH CULTURE – AN IN-DEPTH Topics of discussion will be • Getting to grips with the history of Istanbul and the treasures you can see in the city today • Getting to know the Turkish people – customs and behaviour, language and superstitions, mercantile practices; how to get on with your neighbours and conduct negotiations here • The ‘must-see’ places to visit in Turkey

Many different cultures have left their marks here in Istanbul, and made it the cosmopolitan, intriguing city that we love.

During a day in the company of one of Turkey’s foremost cultural experts, we will be given a chance to understand Istanbul’s history, to better appreciate its cultural richness, and to gain some insights into the Turkish people. Serif Yenen runs his own company, Cultural Interaction Points, to promote understanding of the Turkish culture; we are delighted that he has agreed to host this event for our members in his beautiful old apartment building.

Interactive sessions will allow us to share our own insights and experiences, as well as to ask those questions that we never dared to raise! You will come away noticing more of the environment surrounding you, and be inspired to explore and discover more of the city and indeed wider Turkey.

Turkish kahve (coffee) and çay (tea) will be served, as well as a delicious typical light lunch. Also included in the price, participants will receive a wonderful 1-hour CD video about Istanbul, as well as illustrated maps of both Istanbul and Turkey showing the cultural highlights. This day will delight those interested in understanding more about Istanbul, Turkey and the Turkish people, whether you are a new arrival here or you are interested in getting deeper insights from an expert.

Date

Tuesday, October 18

Time

10.00am – 14.30pm

Location

Cihangir, details to be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 180 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 170 TL Guests: 200 TL

Participants

Minimum: 10, Maximum: 30

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, Oct 15

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

TENNIS GROUP LESSON All coaches are pro-players and have good English skills.

The club has four clay courts and a hard court, all meeting professional specifications. In addition, superb modern infrastructure and facilities are available for warm-up, training, exercising and resting. The first hour and a half will be devoted to tennis coaching and practice, after which we will enjoy body conditioning and coordination exercises designed for better play. The club offers changing facilities, showers, and water. Drinks, and tennis goods, can be purchased in the shop.Loan of racquets may be available if required, please indicate whether you need this service when you register.

Istanbul Tennis Academy is offering IWI members a fun and informative group lesson. Get together with friends, meet other players, and enjoy a professionally taught lesson at a specially discounted price.

The lesson is designed for beginners as an introduction to the sport, but will also allow intermediate players to check and improve their own skills. The class will cover rules, scoring, stroke, form, technique, positioning, and general play. You can expect to learn and develop skills through small group activities and work with participants of similar skill set.

IWI tennis group coach Kenan Dundar has extensive experience giving lessons to foreign students of all levels and ages. We will have two more coaches available to us to allow each member of the group to receive personal attention.

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Come along and enjoy superb facilities under expert guidance; bring your friends and meet new ones.

Date

Thursday, October 20

Time

11.00am – 1.00pm

Location

Istanbul Tennis Academy, Poligon Caddesi 1/A, Istinye-Sarıyer

Cost

Basic members: 75 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 65 TL Guests: 85 TL

Participants

Minimum: 10, Maximum: 30

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, Oct 17

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

LALE EVENTS COFFEE & CULTURE TOUR: KUZGUNCUK Park, the restored Fethi Paşa mansion is now as a restaurant, with a nice Bosphorus view.

Continuing on to Kuzguncuk, we reach the small district containing Jewish synagogues, an Armenian church and a Greek Orthodox church. For hundreds of years, these people of different faiths lived side by side, and they left their physical marks as well as their sense of community spirit.

Strolling the main street, we will enjoy browsing small jewellery ateliers, art galleries, curiosity shops, artisan bakeries… and check out the produce at the communal vegetable gardens.

Kuzguncuk is a small, charming village in the Üsküdar district on the Asian side. Once home to a thriving mix of Greeks, Jews and Armenians, it retains much of its traditional architecture and neighbourhood atmosphere.

In the 15th century, the area was known as “Little Jerusalem.”

Later, in the 18th century, Armenians began moving in.

There was also a large Greek community, as evidenced by their churches. Over the years following the departure of the area’s long-established minorities, the ethnic make-up of the neighbourhood has changed, and Black Sea Anatolians now form the majority of lucky residents.

Meeting IWI member Gabriele Sailer in Üsküdar, we will walk together along the Bosphorus towards Kuzguncuk. We pass the curious old cigarette warehouse and Fethi Paşa Park, one of the largest green spaces surviving in Üsküdar. Inside the

Having seen all the lovely cafes, it will be a tough group choice where to stop for coffee or a light lunch before we say “au revoir” to Kuzguncuk – because you are sure to want to return.

Date

Tuesday, Oct 25

Time

11.00am

Location

Meet in Üsküdar, details to be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 10 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 10 TL Guests: 15 TL

Participants

Minimum: 5, Maximum: 15

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, Oct 22

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

TURKISH MEZZE COOKING CLASS IWI’s very own gourmet guru, Ayşe Yücel, will once again be giving a Turkish Cooking demonstration in her inviting kitchen for ladies who would like to learn more about Turkish cuisine and how to produce some of the unique, healthy and flavoursome dishes. Recipes are provided for you to keep, and the group will enjoy a delicious meal together after the interactive demonstration.

Menu: Dried Broad Beans ( Fava) Roasted eggplant with garlic Yogurt ( Patlıcan salatası ) Circassian Chicken ( Çerkez Tavuk) Triangle Pastry Pouch ( Muska Börek ) Cracked Wheat balls (Bulgur Toplar)

While in Istanbul, why not take the time to learn some delicious Turkish recipes which you can share with your friends and family whilst you are living here, and when you return home?

Turkish cuisine is a reflection of a rich cultural and historical heritage. With an emphasis on seasonal freshness and delicately flavouring with spices, healthy Turkish food is a feast for all the senses.

Date

Wednesday, October 26

Time

10.30am -2.30pm

Location

Ayşe’s home in Yeniköy (details to be provided to participants)

Cost

Basic members: 115 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 105 TL Guests: 130 TL

Participants

Minimum: 10, Maximum: 14

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, October 23

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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IWI BOARD

JOIN THE IWI BOARD & TEAMS

ALL ROLES ARE VOLUNTARY

Have you got vital skills you could be sharing with us? If so, we want to hear from you. We have the following positions available on the board or supporting the board. All enquiries to chairwoman@iwi-tr.org MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS

DIGITAL MEDIA & WEBSITE ASSISTANT

ADVERTISING ASSISTANT

SPONSORSHIP ASSISTANT

LALE DEPUTY EDITOR

MUMS ‘N KIDS COORDINATOR

A Board position which requires previous experience in marketing and a good working knowledge of communication tools such as Facebook, Twitter, websites etc. You must be able to lead a team and work with the board to ensure good communications in the right format.

A non-Board position which involves working closely with the Advertising & Sponsorship Coordinator to seek sponsors for IWI in general as well as for specific events and programmes.

Sales experience is not necessary but good communiction skılls and an ability to work with clients face-to-face a plus.

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A non-Board position requiring good technical knowledge of communication tools such as Facebook, Twitter, websites etc. You will work with the Marketing & Communications Coordinator to ensure that all IWI social media tools are kept up to date, in a professional and clear manner.

A non-Board position which involves working closely with the editor of Lale magazine, the bi-monthly publication of the IWI. You will help plan, contribute to and produce each issue of Lale. Work is flexible, but you will need to be available on the third week of every second month to help with production.

A non-Board position which involves working closely with the Advertising & Sponsorship Coordinator to seek advertisers for Lale magazine and the IWI newsletters. Sales experience is not necessary but good communication skills and an ability to work with clients face-to-face would be a plus.

A non-Board position which involves working closely with the Schools Liaison Coordinator to guide and support current IWI Mums ‘n Kids group leaders, as well as organising some events yourself. Good organisational skills. This is a role that can make a real difference to the profile of the IWI.

IWI FOCUS

MEET THE IWI EVENTS TEAM

In the first of an ongoing series of articles, we take a look behind the scenes of IWI and put the spotlight on The Programmes Team. Fiona Slay, leads the team and she explains her group’s activities, and what makes them tick WHAT DO WE DO?

International Women of Istanbul (IWI) is comprised of a number of teams that work to create opportunities for our members to interact with each other, make friends and enjoy being here in Istanbul.

The Programmes Team organises a wide variety of activities, visits, talks, and walks each month to enable members to discover Istanbul, experience its culture and develop new or existing interests. And, of course, to have fun whilst making new friends or enjoying the company of old ones.

WHY DO WE DO IT?

IWI membership comprises a very wide range of individuals, with different motivations, and so does our team.

We have Turkish speakers, newcomers and “old-timers”, sporty people, arty people, and foodies. The common thread is that we love living in Istanbul and believe very firmly in the IWI motto “From Women, For Women.” Organising events allows us to enjoy the company of other members and to increase our enjoyment of living here. That’s why we do it. Plus, did I forget to mention that we have great fun working together, trying out new ideas, participating in our events, and supporting each other?!

Team member Kathleen DiGiacomo agrees, “I wanted to join the team in order to organise events that interested me and that I could then share and enjoy with others. It is also a great way to meet new people.”“The advantage of having people of different cultural backgrounds and with different interests on the events team is that that variety is then reflected in the portfolio of events on offer. There really is something for everyone!”

HOW DO WE WORK?

The Programmes Team (myself, Ayşe Yücel, Gabriele Sailer, Kathleen DiGiacomo, Olga Pautova, Alexis Harvey) meets approximately every two months to review prior event successes, learnings, to brainstorm ideas, and to leverage our knowledge and networks, in order to come up with some proposed events for the next 2-4 months. We will then discuss with potential providers of those events - to design the best possible format for our members, negotiating a good balance of format and price. We then finalise the schedule, aiming for a nice balance of activities across each month. There are also processes in place to manage registration, the logistics for the day of the event, and financial reconciliation after the event is completed.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR THE 2016/17 SEASON?

We have a number of goals for the next season – and we welcome your thoughts on these: • Be present at the Opening meeting – we’ll be right there, at this key opportunity, to answer members’ questions, field ideas, to help with online registration, and to hear your feedback.

• Experiment with weekend and evening events – Offer programmes more relevant to our working members, and see what happens when we involve our partners!

• Expand the team – see below

WE NEED YOUR SUPPORT! If you believe that Programmes are important to the IWI, here’s how you can demonstrate your support –

• Register for events – It is a great way to expand your social circle with a smaller and more interactive group, to get to know different parts of the city, and to learn something new and different.

• Invite a friend - You have the option to bring guests with you. It is a great way to introduce prospective IWI members to the full range of events we offer • Give us your ideas - Let us know what would inspire you to register for more events • Provide feedback – Events may not always go as planned, but give us honest feedback for improvement • Respect our policies – They exist to keep us open, transparent and make us operate efficiently, on your behalf • Join the Team – We can always use more help. Each person on the team works on their own terms, performing in different ways, devoting time according to their availability. We just ask for commitment to deliver what you say you will do – the IWI’s members depend on that

KEEPING INFORMED OF UPCOMING EVENTS

All our events are advertised in Lale magazine, on the website (iwi-tr.org/events), in the bi-weekly email Newsletter, and on Facebook (International Women of Istanbul).

For any queries, or more information about joining the Team, please write to programs@iwi-tr.org.

We looking forward to seeing you at an event in the near future!

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IWI NEWCOMERS

ARE YOU A NEWCOMER?

IWI holds get-togethers over coffee to welcome newcomers every month on both the Asian and European sides of the city ASIAN SIDE COFFEE

We hold newcomer coffee meetings every second Tuesday of the month at Zamane Kahvesi in Bostancı. For more information, contact Gabriele Sailer: 0546 234 2835.

Each month your NCM Local Coordinator will arrange a meet-up in your area, usually in the second week of the month. This is a chance to connect with people in your area and see what the IWI has to offer. We are currently looking for enthusiastic and organised ladies to fill two positions in Areas M and O.

EUROPEAN SIDE COFFEE

We hold newcomer coffee mornings every third Thursday of the month at The House Cafe, Istinye Park. For more information, please contact Ayşe Yücel: 0532 356 3843.

Being an NCM Coordinator involves arranging the meet-up, passing on information about IWI (which you will receive from the overall NCM Coordinator, Maria Eroğlu), encouraging attendance at various IWI events, and generally making people feel welcome.

AREA

COORDINATOR

CONTACT

Area A/C/F

Etiler, Akatlar, Ulus, Beşiktaş, Levent

Lale Bryce

lalebark@yahoo.com

Area B/J

Tarabya, Sarıyer, Büyükdere, Zekeriyaköy, Kilyos, Uskumruköy

Szilvia Nagy

szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area D

Arnavutköy, Bebek, Rumeli Hisarı, Baltalimanı

Olga Treve

olgatreve@yahoo.com

Area E

Ortaköy, Levazım, Balmumcu

Wendy Serter

wserter@gmail.com

Area G/L

Nişantaşı, Osmanbey, Şişli/Fulya, Gayrettepe, Esentepe, Tepebaşı, Teşvikiye, Maçka, Beyoğlu, Taksim/Tünel, Sultanahmet, Harbiye​, Fatih, Gümüşsuyu/Eyüp, Cihangir/ Topağacı, Gaziosmanpaşa/Kabataş

Anna Mozejko

anna.mozejko@iwi.gmail.com

Area H/I

Yeniköy, İstinye​, Maslak, Reşitpaşa, Emirgan

Szilvia Nagy

szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area K

​Kemer, Göktürk

Sylwia Regulska Guney

sylwıa.regulska-guney@rplast.pl

Area M

Maltepe, Kadıköy/Üsküdar, Moda, Ataşehir, Kartal, Ömerli, Kücükyalı, Salacak, Tuzla

To be confirmed

Area O

​ mraniye,​​Çekmeköy, Beykoz, Çengelköy, Ü Anadolu Hisarı, Beylerbeyi, Kanlıca​, Kandilli, Polonezköy, Kavacık

To be confirmed

​

Area P

​ üyükçekmece​, Küçükçekmece, Hadımköy, B Bakırköy, Ataköy, Yeşilköy, Yeşilyurt, Bahçeköy/ Bahçelievler, Güneşli, Yenibosna, Beylikdüzü, Halkalı, Bahçeşehir, Bağcılar, Esenyurt, Küçükköy

Karen Yarnold

karenyarnold2@gmail.com

Area Y

Caddebostan, Fenerbahçe, Erenköy, Kalamış, Suadiye, Valideçeşme, Göztepe​, Bakkalköy, Çiftehavuzlar, Şaşkınbakkal, Küçükbakkalköy, Bostancı

Gabriele Sailer

gsailer@paradisefruit.eu

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Mark Your Calendar

Sunday, 4 December 2016 Istanbul Marriott Hotel ĹžiĹ&#x;li 57

MUMS ’N KIDS

MEETINGS AND PLAYGROUPS IWI has weekly playgroups organised according to children’s ages. These are usually hosted by our members at their homes, meet-ups at parks or walks along the Bosphorus coast IWI GROUPS

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND PROVIDERS

These playgroups are free of charge for IWI members. This is an opportunity to meet other parents of infants or toddlers, as well as share the joys and trials of motherhood while creating a support network.

Bosphorus International Pre-School, Emirgan

Please contact the Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator at mumsnkids@ iwi-tr.org if you have any questions or suggestions.

To join a playgroup, please go to IWI’s website and visit the Mums ‘n Kids page under the Members’ Section for the coordinators’ email addresses.

The coordinators will add you to the group’s mailing list to keep you updated about future events.

Pregnant and infants (0-12 months) Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 11am-1pm Coordinator: Stephanie Ketterer Walkers – Younger Toddlers (1-2 years) Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 10am-12pm Coordinator: Joanna Hochhold: joannahochhold@gmail.com Toddlers (2+) Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 10am-12pm Coordinator: VOLUNTEER NEEDED Asian Side Playgroup (for all ages) Usual meeting day/time: Mondays Coordinator: Lilian Hasenpusch

Teacher-organised activity, song and circle time, garden play (weather-permitting).

Coffee, tea, milk and cookies provided.

When: Tuesdays Time: 10am-11.30am Cost: FREE Age group: 0-3 years Please contact Ms Collette Laffan-Persembe at preschool@ bipschool.net or telephone at 0212 277 8444. *Note: please call on Mondays to reserve. There are only 10 openings every week. Please only ONE known adult per child. www.bipschool.net.

British International School, Zekeriyaköy and Etiler

Indoor and outdoor play (weather-permitting), followed by snack and music time. A known adult must stay and supervise the child.

Zekeriyaköy (Tuesdays and Fridays) / Etiler (Wednesdays and Fridays) Time: 9am-11am (both campuses) Cost: 10TL per session Age: 0-2.5 years of age Please contact Mrs Amanda Ilhan, Preschool and Primary Deputy Director at amandailhan@bis.k12.tr or telephone at 0212 202 7027 ext 116 www.bis.k12.tr.

Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Yeniköy, Istanbul Baby Ballet Playgroup for Boys and Girls

When: Thursdays Time: 9:30am-11:30am Cost: 30TL per session, (no block-booking required) Age: 0-3 years Where: Ballet Studio, Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Güzelce Ali Paşa Cad. No. 50, Yeniköy, İstanbul Bring: Soft slippers for little feet Please contact Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director at director@ edensgardenpreschool.com or telephone 0212 262 4302 www.edensgardenpreschool.com.

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Fotini Café - Arnavutkoy, Besiktas

Hotpot Café - Şişli, Istanbul

IWI members enjoy a waiver on the 8TL entrance fee to the playroom. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Please contact Lena at fotinicafe@gmail.com or telephone 0533 093 9992.

There is a 10% discount for IWI members. Please present your IWI membership card to claim.

A café with a playroom dedicated to babies and toddlers up to three years old, Fotini Café is located along the Bosphorus coast and offers a comfortable area for you and your child to unwind and have fun at the same time.

Francalaci Cd. No.26, Arnavutkoy, 34345 Istanbul, Turkey www.fotinicafe.com

Gymboree Play and Music

15% discount for IWI members on Play and Learn classes in the Ortaköy branch. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount.

Gymboree Play and Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0-5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in 30 countries, making Gymboree the global leader in early childhood development programmes.

Designed by experts, the age-appropriate activities help develop the cognitive, physical and social skills of children as they play. The programmes are also recognised for their unique approach to parent involvement, which encourages participation in and understanding of each child’s development.

Cost: 1,020TL for 12 classes (after IWI discount applied) Gymboree members can also enjoy complimentary free-play times during the week. For non-Gymboree members, IWI members these cost 30TL per hour.

School Skills programme (drop-off) for the 2-3 year olds or 3-4 year olds. 10% discount on full-year School Skills programme for IWI members.

Music and Art classes are also available. Limited offer for IWI members: 12 classes for the price of eight. Birthday parties for 1-7 year olds (20% discount for weekday bookings) Please contact Esra Taşar at esratasar@gymboreeturkey.com or telephone 212 275 8787. www.gymboreeturkey.com

Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Tarabya, Istanbul Mother and Baby Music and Movement. Parents and guardians can come along for fun singing and dancing with their little ones.

When: Mondays and Tuesdays Time: 4.00pm to 5.00pm Cost: 30TL per class or 50TL for two classes per week Age: 6-23 months Where: Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Sumer Korusu, Altuncu Sk, No 5, Tarabya, Istanbul Please contact Maresa Shahnooshi, Teacher and Preschool Coordinator at maresa@woodsviewpreschool.com or by telephone on 0212 299 3906. www.woodsviewpreschool.com The Mums ’n Kids Team is a volunteer group that organises activities for you and your children to enjoy. Please take responsibility for your own child’s safety. IWI is not liable for any injury or loss incurred

Merkez Mah. Perihan Sk. Erbil Apt. No 71-73B, Şişli – Istanbul Located centrally in Şişli, with just a short walk from the metro station, Hotpot café offers playgroups (baby/toddler), yoga (prenatal, yoga, adults), dance and drama classes and other fun activities for both kids and mums.

Please contact Melissa at info@hotpot.web.tr or telephone 0212 343 5353. www.hotpot.web.tr

Kindermusik at Play to Learn Pre-School

On the European side in Akatlar, Nişantaşı and Koç University Rumelifeneri Campus and on the Asian side in Ataşehir, offering different music classes.

My Time Programme: 18-30 months ABC, Music and Me Programme: 2-4 years of age Please contact Ms Ozlem Hun at info@playtolearn.com.tr or telephone at 0212 352 3031 or 0532 237 2272. www.playtolearn.com.tr

Full Circle Healing Doula List

There are doulas on both the European and Asian side.

Doulas may be willing to travel to your location. For more detailed information about each doula, and on how a doula can support you, visit www.fullcirclehealing.org.

Do’um

Specialising in pregnancy and childbirth, providing education and counselling services to expecting parents and bringing together experts who believe in a natural approach. www.do-um.com

LOLA (Lots of Lovely Art)

After-school workshops, toddler art, kinder art, weekend workshops, holiday camps, themed birthday parties. www.lotsoflovelyart.com

Our House

Our House is located in Cihangir as a center for children and families. The aim of the organisation is to generate curiosity, creativity ad awareness for children at all stages of development. www.ourhouse.club

KidsAloud British Culture International Preschool

Summer School Age 2-6 and playgroup activitiıes Emirgan, Istanbul, www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer Song & Circle Time, Daytime Activities (art, dance, drama, sport, outdoor play) An adult to stay and supervise child Time: 10:30am - 12:00pm Wednesdays Cost: FREE for IWI members Bring: soft slippers Where: Kids Aloud British Culture Preschool, Emirgan Mah. Şirin Sok. No. 32, Emirgan, Istanbul Please contact Mrs Sevgi Doğan or Carroll Ibramihov Tan Telephone: 0532 361 4427 / 212 229 3776, or sariyer@ ingilizceanakoulu.com *Note: please call on Fridays or Mondays to reserve (within the quota) We offer a 50% discount for IWI members for the summer school and 2016 September term. www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer

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GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS Alcoholics Anonymous/Al-Anon

Open AA (Alcoholics Anonymous) meetings in English are held in the Union Han building on Istiklal Caddesi, Tünel, next to the Swedish Consulate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 6.45pm (contact 0533 626 5724 ). There is an Alanon meeting at 6.30pm on Thursdays in the same location. On Sundays, there is an open AA meeting at 4,15pm in Harbiye (contact 0539 606 0123). On the Asian side in Kadikoy, there are meetings at 6pm on Thursdays and at 5.30pm on Saturdays (contact 0537 433 8368). A full listing of all Englishspeaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website: www. aa-europe.net

Asian Ladies of Istanbul

The Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a non-profit social group established over 20 years ago for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul to come together.

A members-only Facebook page provıdes news of the monthly lunches, news, events, photographs and useful information. Please contact Kim Cakirkaya at kim.cakirkaya@gmail.com or 0533 463 6930 for further information.

ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey)

The Friends of ARIT Istanbul, with branches in North America and Ankara, was established to support the ARIT in Turkey. The Istanbul Friends run a year-round programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. For further information call 0212 257 8111.

AWl (American Women of Istanbul)

AWI is a social network open to Americans, Canadians and spouses of US or Canadian citizens in Istanbul. AWI offers social programmes from special-interest groups to charities. If you’re a newcomer to Istanbul please contact our newcomers committee. Email Monisha Kar or Sia Israfil at awiistanbul@gmail.com.

Belgian Friends of Istanbul

The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gathers every month for drinks, brunch, dinner, a walk or a cultural activity. We also offer activities such as the annual St Nicholas party for children or New Year’s dinner. Our Facebook page allows members to exchange information about job opportunities, housing, babysitting, Belgian cultural events in Istanbul, where to find Belgian products, etc. Email bfistanbul@gmail.com.

Book Club

There are two IWI book clubs. Book Club 1 is currently over-subscribed, but Book Club 2 is open to new members. Contact: Mary Akgüner (Book Club 2) mary.akguner@gmail.com

Boy Scouts/Cub Scouts

The Boy Scouts and Cub Scouts of America is a youth programme for character development and values-based leadership training. All boys in grades one to five (ages six to 10) holding a foreign passport are welcome to join Cubs. Older boys (ages 11-18) are welcome to join Boy Scouts.

Activities include hiking and camping. Email Vicki Gunay graygunay@gmail.com or 0532 314 11 34.

are in Turkish and English. For more information, contact info@4carma.com.

CHICAS Spanish Speaking Women of Istanbul

A group open to all ladies who speak our language, or would like to practise it. We host lots of fun, hilarious Latin parties and cultural events. We have our own blog: http://chicasestambul.blogspot.com/ and we’re on Facebook under “Chicas Estambul.”

Email chicasestambul@yahoo.com.mx or phone Ninoska Gutierrez Sierra 0533 651 3581, Norma Maranges 0532 314 29 34 or Lorena Martinez 0533 388 6309.

CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana)

The Italian Association organises activities, such as cooking classes, dinners, parties, Italian and Turkish conversation classes, piano lessons, zumba, tamurriata, Italian cinema, medieval fencing, painting on porcelain, capoiera, singing and activities for children. The wonderful liberty hall can also be hired for private parties and conferences. Email Armanda Campaner armandacampaner@ttmail.com or Elsa Zambonini elsazambonini@yahoo.com, tel 0212 244 17 59 or visit our website info@circoloroma.com.

IWI Craft Group

Contact Gaye Hiçdonmez at gayehicdonmez@ gmail.com or 0532 700 0693.

Die Bruecke

Die Bruecke, founded ın 1989, is a platform for the German-speaking community. It is open to everyone who speaks German. Die Bruecke issues a monthly newsletter. Different gatherings, charities, information concerning everyday life, bi-national education, help with bureaucracy and immigration laws in Turkey are covered. Website www.brueckeistanbul.com, email info@bruecke-istanbul.com.

DNSI - The Dutch School of Istanbul

We provide Dutch language and cultural lessons to students aged between three and 16 with at least one parent with Dutch nationality. We also provide lessons to students aged three to 13, who would like to learn Dutch as a foreign language.

We also offer a one-week Dutch summer school.

Please check our website www.dnsi.nu or email secretaris@dnsi.nu.

Fransız Fakirhanesi – Little Sisters of the Poor Email Mother Mary psdptr@gmail.com or phone 0212 296 4608.

Friends of India Association (FOIA)

The Friends of India Association (FOIA) aims to connect Indians in Istanbul through social events.

Our aim is to keep the spirit of India and Indian culture alive by organising festivals and activities.

If you would like to know more, email any of the following: Jugnu Saglik: jugnusaglik@yahoo. com, Diya: khera.diya@gmail.com. We are also on Facebook as Istanbul Indian community (FOIA).

Girl Scouts

Bridge Group

Our bridge group meets on Fridays at 10.30am - all levels welcome. Playing bridge in our group is a way to spend a pleasant Friday. Please contact Sandra on 212 257 9781 or 0532 483 5319.

The Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls everywhere build character and gain skills for success. İn a nurturing environment, and in with committed volunteers, girls develop strong values, leadership skills, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls aged fıve and up are welcome. Email Kat Bekham usagsoistanbul@gmail.com or phone 054 2300 24 92.

C@rma

InterNations

C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have opportunities to volunteer with your specific skills on a pro-bono basis through our platform, www.4carma.com, and we also organise events every two months at which NGOs can present their activites or brainstorm around their problem with professional volunteers. Our website and activities

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InterNations is an organisation where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. We organise events and provide opportunities for our members to meet and network twice a month. For further information please see our website internations.org.

International Women’s Bible Study

This group meets Tuesdays from 10am until 12.30pm. Contact Vicki Günay on 0532 314 1134.

Istanbul Accueil

Welcomes French speaking newcomers in Istanbul.

We publish a weekly newsletter listing many events and activities. All French-speaking people are welcome! Email istaccueil@gmail.com or visit our website www.istanbulaccueil.org.

IWI Tennis Group

If you enjoy playing tennis please join our group.

The IWI Tennis Group takes place at Istanbul Tennis Academy (ISTA) in Istinye. We welcome all players from beginners to advanced. Please contact Kenan Dundar at 0535 390 4983 or email kenandundar911@hotmail.com. You can also contact IWI Sports Events Coordinator Olga at 0531 945 2588 or email pautova@hotmail.com

Luso Brasileiro

Portuguese speaking group. Contact Isabel Ponte Gulpan 0212 669 4943 or 0532 274 1653.

Istanbul International Rugby Center

Founded in 2007, this is the only Rugby Club in Istanbul with coaching for children and teenagers.

Turkish, English, French and Spanish all spoken.

The club has coached over 400 international children aged fıve to 16. Rugby training is every Saturday 12.30 - 2pm at Dilikitaş Sport Club in Beşiktaş. Contact Club President Gülseren Gomez or Technical Director Mr Luis Gomez on 0538 642 4513 or see our website: www.istanbulrugbycenter. com

Istanbul Ottomans Rugby Football Club

We practise every Saturday afternoon between 4pm and 6pm, except on days when there are official fixtures, at the Dikilitaş Spor Kulübü in Besiktas (directions available at www. ottomansrugby.com). Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome.

Mahjong Club

We are a small group of ladies, meeting once a week to piay Mahjong, a Chinese ‘brick’ game.

Mahjong is very popular ın China and across Asia.

The game was traditionally played in clubs, on the street and in homes. We meet on Thursdays at 10.30am and usually continue until around 3.30pm.

We meet at each other’s homes, where we are served a light lunch, nothing complicated. You don’t have to know the game in advance. It ıs not a complicated game, but it can take a little while to get familiar with. Join us - we will guide and support you. Please contact Br Gerd Andreasson for more information. Email: gerd.andreasson@ gmail.com. Tel: +90 531 327 1108.

NVI – Dutch speaking people of Istanbul

The Dutch Club Istanbul aıms to keep typical Dutch festivities alive, for people who have a connection to Holland, who like to meet up with Dutchspeaking people. For further information check our website (www.nv-istanbul.org) or contact Lisette Ruygrok at secretariaat@nv-istanbul.org.

PAWI

The Professional American Women of Istanbul is a network of American/Canadian women and spouses of Americans/Canadians living in Istanbul.

PAWI strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Each monthly PAWI meeting features a guest speaker, and locations alternate between the European and Asian sides. Contact pawimembership@gmail.com or visit www.pawistanbul.wordpress.com.

Photography Club

The photo club is a group of international members whose skill levels vary from very basic to semiprofessional – but who all share the desire to capture the world in a photograph and to explore Istanbul while doing so. The group discussion includes all current event information, bi-weekly photo challenges, tips and tricks, and general

GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS photography topics. Contact: Katherıne Baker at photoclubofistanbul@gmail.com.

IWI Rollerblading Biking Group

Asian-side meetup. Bikes can be rented, bring your own rollerblades. Contact Gabriele Sailer for more information gsailer@paradisefruit.eu.

IWI Running Group

The programme will run on a rolling basis, with membership renewable every month. If members need to travel, members may rejoin the group upon return. New members can join anytime. Thursdays at 7pm, Sundays at 8am Caddebostan sahil. 120 USD per month. Contact Marina Khonina at marina.khonina@gmail.com or 0534 9828307

Speech Bubbles

Speech Bubbles Theatre is a drama group established in 1988 aiming to perform high-quality English language musical theatre and donating proceeds to charities supporting children and education. Speech Bubbles is composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers and musicians from the international community. We also run a part-time school of performing arts for young people over 10 years of age and adults for three hours on Saturday mornings. Email tom@ speechbubbles.org or www.speechbubbles.org.

South Africans in Istanbul

Please contact esbie@hotmail.com if you are interested in forming an informal group of expatriate South Africans.

SWEA (Swedish Women Educational Association)

SWEA is a world-wide network for Swedishspeaking women with a chapter in Istanbul. We organise events and activities and welcome everyone who speaks Swedish. If you would like to know more, please contact istanbul@swea.org.

Support Group for Parents of Children with Special Needs

Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs and additional resources for your child? Please contact Carol Crous for more information on 0533 730 7148 or 0212 223 9700.

Toastmasters International – Istanbul Chapter

The English speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club is the first Istanbul branch of Toastmasters International, an organisation that helps its members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment.

ITM meets on the first and third Wednesday of each month from 7.30pm to 9.30pm at the Gönen Hotel in Taksim. Guests are welcome to attend two meetings free of charge. Email vp-membership@ istanbultoastmasters.org or president@ istanbultoastmasters.org.

Union Church of Istanbul

We are an international, inter-denominational church that offers services in English. Please visit ucistanbul.org for more information.

www.bipschool.net

IWI DIRECTORY / CLASSIFIEDS

PROFESSIONAL MASSAGE

I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho rebalancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.

PIANO LESSONS

I give private piano lessons starting 4 years old. Our lessons can be in English or Turkish. I live in Ortakoy/Ulus area. Lessons can take place in my house as well as in the student’s house. I organise a piano recital at the end of the school year. I can prepare kids for London College of Music exams where they receive an internationally recognised certificate. Hope to meet you!

Sandra 0532 422 0413

Building Bridges between Countries & Cultures

MEF INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Ulus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus - Beşiktaş / Istanbul Phone: +90 (212) 362 26 33 • Fax: +90 (0212) 287 38 70 E-mail: contact@mefis.k12.tr · www.mefis.k12.tr

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TURKISH LESSONS

PRIVATE AND CONVERSATIONAL For ladies and men, group or one to one lessons, at your home or workplace, from an experienced native teacher fluent in English and French. Adjustable to your needs and time schedule.

Please call 0530 310 21 32 or email rbensan@superonline.com for full information.

IWI PARTNER OFFERS

In order to take advantage of these offers, you must show your IWI membership card

PERSONAL LIFE COACHING EXPERT SKINCARE SPECIALISTS

Is your skin in need of rehydration or have you noticed pigmentation changes following the summer sun? Combining our knowledge and skill with famous brands, oxygen facials, manual microdermabrasion to provide solutions, we offer free skincare consultations during the months of September and October, plus 20% discount for IWI members. CIDESCO, CIBTAC, ITEC qualifications. For more information and to make an appointment contact Siobhan or Gonca: Siobhan: 05355527887 / 00353851562889. Gonca: 05443235081 siobhandirilgen@hotmail.com

GRAND BAZAAR DISCOUNTS

The following vendors in the Grand Bazaar are offering 10% discount.

Koç Leather & Fur KaptanBros, lighting and home decoration Tarkan Özbudak, fine Kütahya and İznik hand-painted ceramics, tiles İgüs, cashmere & silk Ucuzcular Baharat (Bilge Kadıoğlu): Spice market no:51 Eminönü

ISTANBUL TENNIS ACADEMY (ISTA)

Offers individual and group lessons for children and adults of various skill levels. Our experienced coach will help to instill basic tennis skills and proper techniques in beginners as well as help develop professional skills for advanced players. Coach Kenan Dundar has extensive experience giving lessons to foreign students of all different levels and age groups. There are 5 tennis courts: 4 clay courts and 1 hard court. Every tennis court at our club meets the specifications for professional tennis courts but the tennis club not only has great tennis courts, it also has all the necessary modern infrastructure for training, warm-up and rest after the game. ISTA offers excellent opportunities for training and education but our tennis club is not only about the lessons and playing tennis, it is also a lively, relaxing and great place to meet other tennis fans and make interesting acquaintances. ISTA offers a 10% discount to IWI members. Courts are open from 7 am to midnight and for more detailed information please contact: 0535-3904983 kenandundar911@hotmail.com (Kenan Dundar) or 0531-9452588 pautova@hotmail.com (Olga Dundar)

STEVEN KITCHING BRITISH HAIRSTYLIST

I’m happy to offer a 10% discount to all IWI members when booking your first appointment. I have 20 years experience in cutting, styling and colouring and offer a professional friendly service in the comfort of your home. For more details and appointments call or e-mail (0551) 412- 4784. stevekitching@hotmail.co.uk

HILLSIDE SPORTS

With a ‘feel good’ mission, these sports centres provide multifunctional and boutique services. Hillside’s unique products consider personal needs with a team of friendly, experienced and internationally certified experts. We introduce the world’s latest sports trends and provide a colourful range of products to members, combining fitness and fun. The ‘Hillsider community’ consists of Hillside Etiler, Hillside İstinye and Hillside Trio members. Activities, tours, cultural travels, tournaments and parties enrich the lives of the community of members. Hillside City Clubs are wellness addresses that satisfy all needs of their guests and makes sure they feel good. We offer a 20% discount on general membership to IWI members. Contact: Hillside City Club Etiler 0212 3522333 (Alkent Sitesi Tepecik Yolu Etiler).

Hillside City Club Trio 0216 3241111 (Trio Konutları, Kozyatağı Hillside City Club İstinye 0212 3672000 ( İstinyePark AVM)

DENTGROUP DENTAL CLINICS

DentGroup Dental Clinics is an ISO certified chain of dental clinics in Istanbul, Turkey. DentGroup has its own laboratory named DentLab and with 6 dental clinics, it offers a full range of dental services for all age groups, including orthodontics, implantology and paediatric dentistry. As an experienced team of specialists, DentGroup provides patient-centered personalised care with high quality and affordable dentistry. DentGroup Dental Clinics offers 20% discount on all treatments to IWI members for 2015-2016 IWI season. The offer is valid at all six clinics: DentGroup Maslak, DentGroup Ataşehir, DentGroup Bağdat Caddesi, DentGroup Kids, DentGroup Göztepe and DentGroup Acarkent.

Experienced in Expat life for 15 years , I am ready to assist you during your transmission period .

I am a certifed Life Coach ,Intercultural Trainer and MBTI Specialist , speak German and English fluently.

I would be happy to offer 20 % discount to IWI members .

Ozlem Hersek: 0532-616-50-45 ozlemhersek@gmail.com

KIRKPINAR LOKANTASI / TURKISH CUISINE

Modern Turkish Cuisine. Kırkpınar Lokantası is offering IWI members a 10% discount on all Kırkpınar tastes. Show the manager or cashier your membership card and enjoy healthy Turkish food. Tea or coffee are free with your meal. For more information, see www. kirkpinarlokantasi.com.tr

DENTRAM DENTAL CLINICS

Dentram Dental Clinics offers 20% discount on all treatments to IWI members. The offer is valid at all three clinics: Dentram Levent; Dentram Bağdat Caddesi; Dentram Acarkent. Please have your IWI membershıp card with you. www.dentram.com

CONCEPT LANGUAGES

Located in the heart of Etiler, Concept Languages is offering free Turkish conversation classes to any IWI member presenting their card.

Classes will take place twice a month between 14:30 –15:30 and for full information and reservations. Please Contact: Başak Toksoy (0212) 351- 18 40 basak.toksoy@conceptlanguages.com

TIME OUT SUBSCRIPTIONS

Time Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discout on subscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city by contacting: Omer Karanis, omer@ajansmedya. com. www.timeoutistanbul.com

CHILL OUT SPA NIŞANTAŞI

British salon owner Ann Marie Sabuncu is offering IWI members a 25% discount on all treatments and package programs. Chill Out is a small boutique spa using quality products from Decleor. Latest technology LPG body treatments and reflexology are just some of the treatments available. For more information please contact Ann Marie on 0212 231 1159. www.chilloutspa.com.tr

SWISS CENTERDENT DENTAL CLINIC ZORLU CENTER

Swiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, İstanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We are striving to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for all IWI members.

Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212/ 353 63 83 www. swisscenterdent.com

MOMMA ZEN/ANNEZEN

Momma Zen/annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy for the pregnant woman, baby yoga and baby massage workshops and kid's yoga.

We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birth classes, workshops, massages and child yoga. Momma Zen/annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. Jo Harris: 0536 8285587. www.momma-zen.com. www. annezen.com/program

BOYNUZ STEAK HOUSE & KASAP

Boynuz offers IWI members a 10% discount.

Polignon Mah. Polignon Cd. Fevzi Cakmak Sk. No:2 Istiniye Phone: 0212 2291910. www.boynuzet.com

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IWI POLICIES Membership Directory Membership information is only available online in the members only area of the website at present, but depending on sponsorship availability, may again be printed in the future as it was in the past. Whether online or in print, any and all member information is provided to IWI members in strictest confidentiality. Provision of member information to third parties contravenes IWI policy

MEMBERSHIP

ADVERTISING

Membership registration is also available at our Newcomers meetings, held each month on both the European and Asian sides. Please refer to the Newcomers page in this Lale magazine for details of timing and location.

Classified ads: Restricted to 50 words.

Changing Address or Lale Problems?

Don’t forget to give us your new address (postal and/or e-mail) to avoid delays to the delivery of Lale magazine or for up-to-date IWI member information. Contact our Membership Coordinator by e-mail at membership@iwi-tr.org.

All advertising costs are payable by bank transfer.

No cash payments accepted. A copy of the payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: advertising@iwi-tr.org. Only paid advertisements can be included in Lale.

Membership is open to all women who hold a Non-Turkish passport or who are married to a foreign passport holding spouse. For application details, please visit our website www.iwi-tr.org.

If your Lale magazine doesn’t arrive, please contact the Membership Coordinator membership@iwi-tr.org

To place an advertisement please contact us at advertising@iwi-tr.org. Advertisements must be confirmed through signed contract before any payment is accepted.

Member cost: 1-3 FREE in our online publications (Non-Commercial Ads) Non-Member cost: $60 plus 18% VAT.

Payment Details Bank: Garanti Bankası Branch Code (Hesap Şubesi): 340 Etiler TL Account (TL Hesap): TR03 0006 2000 3400 0006 2991 17 USD Account (USD Hesap): TR09 0006 2000 3400 0009 0939 67 Customer Name: İstanbul Uluslararası Kadınlar Derneği İktisadi İşletmesi

DISCLAIMER

Lale Content The IWI as an organisation and the IWI Board members act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not accept any liability regarding the accuracy or content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles.

In order to comply with these laws or publishing standards the IWI reserve the right to reject or edit any submission to Lale. Furthermore, the IWI does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers.

Programmes Cancellation of a programme reservation after the deadline remains fully payable. Please refer to our website www.iwi-tr.org for up to date details, last minute additions or programme changes. The IWI reserves the right to cancel programmes due to insufficient numbers. You are responsible for both you and your child’s safety and the IWI cannot accept responsibility for injury or extra cost incurred during any activity organised by the IWI, or advertised in Lale.

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IICS. Exceptional. Forward Thinking.

Years of Academic Excellence

1911-2011

IICS is the only Early Years 3 through Grade 12 International school in Istanbul fully authorized and globally accredited by the IB, CIS and NEASC.

• Child-centered education Early Years 3 through Grade 12 • Rigorous academics delivered by highly qualified faculty • Top university acceptances • Fully-authorized International Baccalaureate school (PYP, MYP, DP) • Multicultural staff & students • Modern technology & resources • Over a century of excellence

www.iics.k12.tr

www.iics.k12.tr