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Issue 01 September - October 2018








04 CELEBRATING SEASONS Fall into Autumn 06 IN YOUR WORDS We are the fabric of the city 24 ART ARTISTS ON BOARD AT KURŞUNLU HAN 26 LANGUAGE Learning Turkish 28 TRIVIA Excerpts from Turkish history and legends 30 GOURMET– Turkish delights, Make your own Pumpkin Spice Latte 34 DINING OUT Top picks around Istanbul 36 STYLE DECORATING YOUR NEST 40 BOOKISH Top shelf bookstores in Istanbul 42 MIXED MEDIA Our recommendations on online resources of interest 43 AUDIOFILE Songs fitting for Fall 44 HEALTH Finding a medical professional 46 WELLNESS Finding refuge in a big city 48 MUMS ‘N KIDS Back to School 50 WALK IN MY SHOES Interview with Semiha Ünal


52 CALENDAR September and October events and activities 54 SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Lending a hand in the community 58 LEGAL Short-term resident permits



letter from the editor

It’s September and the laid-back summer vibes have given way to the routine of school and work. But that doesn’t mean the fun has to end, it merely metamorphoses. Istanbul is endless with possibility and there are so many interesting people, places and activities that you’ll either wish there were more hours in the day, or that there were two of you to be able to do it all. On that note, have you noticed that almost every conversation you have, someone is looking for advice or recommendations for a product or service, or a place to go? Of course, we all have our favorites for good reason. For this issue, we’ve gathered insight from residents on what gets them going and where their happy place is. Perhaps you’ll agree when you read them, or maybe it will be a revelation for you and an invitation to explore something new and different. We are just scratching the surface of what the city has to offer, and we hope that leads you to interesting adventures, and helps you settle in. Enjoy the ride! Monisha Kar Lale Editor

BOARD INFORMATION IWI Office Hours: First Wednesday of the month, 10:30am to 1:00pm. Answering service available every working day Adres/ Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 705 6215 Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027 İrtibat Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY

İmtiyaz Sahibi / Licensee: Yasemin Kunze Adres/ Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli Tasarım / Design: Marlet Corporate Publications +90 216 386 32 16

Basım Tarihi: 24.08.2018 Sayı: 95 Official Facebook page: LALE MAGAZINE TEAM Advertising Coordinator Monisha Kar Features Editor Anna Wnukowska Cover Photo by Pixabay

Matbaa / Printer: Marlet Print Solutions Fener Kalamış Caddesi: No:30 Kalamış / İstanbul +90 216 386 32 16

LALE MAGAZINE is a bi-monthly publication for international women living in Istanbul. Our aim is to connect women, to share information, and to help the city feel like home. We cover a range of topics from the arts, business networking, culture, food, health, travel, social responsibility, style, and more! To learn more, contact


Ä°stanbul / Toronto Come explore with us!


celebrating seasons Feature and Photography by Anna Wnukowska





The season of crunchy, colorful leaves, cozy sweaters, rainy days and pumpkin spice is here. It can be enjoyed with our guide on how to fall in love with Fall.

Indulge in a cup of tea

They say a cup of tea can solve any problem. Indulging in a warm, delicious spicy infusion will certainly help fight the blues we all feel this season. It is the perfect time to try the amazing teas from one of the most famous tea houses - Kusmi. The Parisian brand’s origin dates back to 1867 in Saint Petersburg, Russia. Their black tea collection is exceptional, be sure to try Kashmir Tchai - it is filled with warming spices: cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and tastes best with a little bit of honey in it.

Make your own pumpkin spice latte at home

For all Pumpkin Spice Latte lovers, there is a delicious and healthy way to enjoy this adored by millions drink. It tastes like Thanksgiving in a mug, the secret: make your own pumpkin spice with cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, allspice and cloves. Do not forget to add whipped cream on top!

Binge watch TV shows

With all the rainy days approaching us, there is nothing better than to curl up on the sofa and binge watch an engaging tv series. Big Little Lies is a cleverly plotted tale based on the novel of the same name by Liane Moriarty with brilliant performances by Nicole Kidman,

Reese Witherspoon and other female actresses. The lives of wealthy California mothers are going to change when a murder is committed by someone in their community. Their perfect world may not be so perfect after all. And if dark secrets are not what you are looking for, Grace and Frankie is the perfect comedic choice with striking performances by the two leading ladies Jane Fonda and Lily Tomlin. Elegant Grace and eccentric Frankie are forced to face the reality when their husbands announce they are in love with each other and they want to get married. The unlikely friendship will

prove we all need our female friends by our sides to overcome the obstacles in our lives.

Walk around rainy Istanbul

There is something magical about this big city soaked with rain. According to Orhan Pamuk the essence of Istanbul lies in the expression hüzün. Behind this word is the pain, nostalgia and the longing for what once was. Take a walk around districts like Galata, learn more about the events that took place there, this will help you understand the history of this amazing place. Sit in a cafe and breathe in the unique atmosphere.

Get cozy with a blanket and a book One of the perks of those grey days is the extra time for all the indoor activities. There is a fabulous book series by Lucinda Riley. The Seven Sisters saga, which is a story of six young women adopted by a wealthy and enigmatic Pa Salt. When he dies, the sisters are left with clues regarding their past. Every book is filled with historical details and takes us on a journey to a different country. This year the fourth book will be released. So far all of the books are real page-turners filled with magic, charismatic heroines and secrets that are delicious to uncover.


in your words

what I love about



Water, water everywhere – sipping a çay on the ferry, feeding a simit to the seagulls - it’s one of the top reasons we love Istanbul so much. We asked people what some of their other favorite things about Istanbul are Favorite place to eat: Maromi Japanese Restaurant in the Divan Hotel in Taksim. Favorite shop/space: 3rd Culture Project in Çükürcuma. I love this store / collection by siblings Zeynep and Emre Rende. Favorite art space: I love Mixer Art (contemporary art space in Karaköy) Favorite ‘touristy’ spots: Basilica Cistern, and Galata tower. I love taking a walk from Galata, wandering downhill through the neighborhoods and crossing the bridge over the Golden Horn by foot to get to Eminönü. Favorite bar/pub: Probably the best bar/pub I have ever been to in Istanbul is The North Shield in Bahçeşehir. Service is top notch, music is good, wide variety of drinks and great cocktails. The food is also good. Many of our friends who live in places like Maslak, Beşiktaş and Şişli also agree that it is one of the best pubs around. Michelle Very simple, but I love buying a box of filter coffee from the Mehmet Efendi shop in Kadıköy. It's not a cafe, just a kiosk, only takes cash, no cards. It's well-known for its Turkish coffee of course but I'm not keen. I think the 'Colombian' filter coffee is way better than anything Starbucks or the big coffee brands have to offer! Katherine Baylan Pattiserie in Kadıköy for their famous desserts - not expensive, and delicious. Alice

My favorite breakfast place: Çeşme Bazlama Kahvaltı Nişantaşı This place is a must. Great experience and typical Turkish breakfast from Çeşme region. No menu, they keep serving you until you are full. You will love the design of the place too. Go early - 9ish so not to wait in line. It's super popular. Karaköy Gulluoğlu Best Turkish sweets in town - try the Şekerpare- you can sit and eat there (it's next to Namlı in Karaköy) Sinop Mantı in Beşiktaş Leen Yildiz Park in Beşiktaş is beautiful for walking and picnics. There are red squirrels there. It is best during the week. There has been a lot of renovation recently. Terri Çamlica Hill for 360 city views Sara Göçmen Ranch for horseback riding! Laura The food – dolma (stuffed grape leaves), and Hünkarbeğendi (a dish of stewed lamb or beef on top of a bed of smoked pureed eggplant) Alice My all-time favorite restaurant is " Hak Evrensel Hatay Sofrasi" in Florya; great breakfast and dinner and the sea view is amazing. For a day out, Kadıköy area and the antique shops and the Kadıköy-Eminönü ferries during sunset.


For shopping and just hanging out Meydan Istanbul AVM in Ümraniye Lubna





THE LALE TEAM SHARES A FEW OF THEIR FAVORITE THINGS IN ISTANBUL Monisha Kar 1. Küçük Çamlıca, Üsküdar – Located on Çamlıca Hill on the Asian side in Üsküdar it has a fantastic panoramic view on the city and is a breath of fresh air from the rat race. You can have kahvaltı at the cityrun koşk or enjoy a picnic in the adjoining park area. 2. Petra Coffee, Gayrettepe – Delicious third-wave coffee roaster, their main location is on a backstreet off Barbaros Boulevard near Zorlu Center. It is an open, airy space with lots of seating, a view to the roasting area, and a section in the back with curated accessories, clothes and artwork. 3. Adresistanbul, Şişli – Even if you have everything you need to furnish your place, you’ll feel like a kid in a candy store window shopping for your dream home.

4. Yeşilköy Sahil, Yeşilköy – Living on the western side of the city, I can’t always get to the Bosphorus, so I love the expanse of seaside on the Marmara. There is a great pedestrian path along the shore, green space, and you can rent bikes and kids can scoot around in electric cars. Along the way there are plenty of distractions if you need a break – from Röne Park which has a petting zoo, and several restaurants in the main village area. Take a coffee break at Ministry of Coffee, or for a bite to eat at the many fish restaurants in the area, try Eleo’s. 5. Yedikule, Fatih – The area may not top anyone’s list as a tourist destination, but it offers a glimpse into old Istanbul. From outside the city walls, starting at Yedikule Fortress, you can see bostans (city gardens) still surviving despite rampant urbanization. Weaving in and out from the main drag Imrahor Ilyasbey, you can catch sight of the Armenian and Greek churches peppered throughout the neighbourhood. Keep walking and you’ll run into the old, charming, fishing village of Samatya where you can grab a lunch in the open air.


Meg Dreyer 1. Best place to buy classy vintage junk Bomonti Bit Pazarı (also known as Feriköy Antique Market) Semt Pazarı No:8, Cumhuriyet Mahallesi, Sisli/ Istanbul Every Sunday, rain or shine (in a covered otopark) 9 am to 5 pm Why? Weird and wonderful clothing, leather goods, glassware and porcelain, carpets and textiles,metalware, ceramics, jewelry, watches, vinyl LPs, lighting, analog and digital cameras, and electronics. All used. It’s not cheap but you can bargain. Bring cash. 2. Best place to hang out by the sea and watch the boats (and people) Karaköy sahil Why? A place to get right up to the edge. Broad expanse of walkway, with plentiful benches to sit on; or dangle your feet over the sea wall. Dotted with the requisite simitci carts. Kids, families and dogs parade along the water, punctuated by fisherman and attendant cats. Opposite a strip of cafes and fish restaurants, a new iskele provides direct ferry service to Kadiköy every 20 minutes; the iskele is also on the tramline (Karaköy stop) and very close to Tunel (so easy access to the Metro). Karaköy itself is worth exploring for its boutiques and eateries, including a charming balık ekmek joint, an all-çorba cafe, the fotobook cafe Fil, and Tahin, a Lebanese restaurant featuring outstanding falafel. Enjoy. 3. Best place to buy enamel ware Luyano Akçe Sokak, No.10, Akçe Han Kat 2 Karaköy/Istanbul www.luyano. Telefon : +90 212 292 3163 Why? Wholesale! Many sizes and shapes: trays, platters, plates, cups, bowls, covered pots, casserole pans and more. All in sherbet colors, as well as the traditional red, blue and white.


Buy off the floor or order in quantity and pick up the next day. Cash only. 4. Best ‘starter’ hamam Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami Kemankes Mah. Hamam Sok. No: 1 | Beyoğlu, Tophane, Karaköy/Istanbul www. Why? A great first hamam experience. Elegant and authentic, one of a group of buildings designed and built between 1580 and 1587 by Mimar Sinan as part of the complex surrounding the Kılıç Ali Pasha mosque (Turkish: Kılıç Ali Pasa Külliyesi). With fully appointed changing rooms and lounge areas. A cafe menu offers traditional refreshments. Gift

shop. Reduced admission for children 6 –12 (5 years and under free). Make reservations online. Services provided by professional massage therapists include full body massage (50 minutes), partial-body massage (25 minutes), foot and lower leg massage (25 minutes), sports massage (50 minutes) and deep tissue massage (75 minutes). 5. Best place to work when you need to get out of the house SALT Galata reading room Bankalar Caddesi 11, Karaköy/Istanbul Tue through Sat 12 – 20, Sun 12 – 18 www. Why? SALT is an institute for art research founded by Garanti Bank, with locations in Istanbul and Ankara. The Galata location is housed in Karaköy in the former Imperial Ottoman Bank headquarters; the light-filled space has been renovated and now fuses traditional architecture with functional industrial materials for an effect both timeless and contemporary. The reading room, a specialized public library and archive, offers space for reading and study, with big tables for spreading out and nooks and crannies for curling up. Reliable high-speed internet, a cafe, lockers and bookstore are also present. Free and open to the public. Seats go fast–get to the reading room by 10 am to claim your seat!

Anna Wnukowska 1. Hagia Sophia, Fatih - For architecture lovers, history fans and everyone else. Built nearly 1,500 years ago this unique architectural marvel is the symbol of Istanbul. This Byzantine jewel served as church, mosque and museum. It changed the history of architecture with its massive „floating” dome. Make sure to observe the magical way the light enters the building. 2. Pizza Pera, Pera - For those in need of Italian comfort food. Cozy restaurant hidden in the lovely Pera district. Delicious pizza and tiramisu, great wines and coffee. 3. Any, Arnavutköy - For those who love beautifully designed places with nice food, tasty coffee and live music. 4. Chado, Arnavutköy - For all tea lovers looking for a place to buy everything tearelated: variety of teas, from black to matcha, from accessories to perfect gift sets, everything is there! 5. Kadıköy Sineması, Kadıköy - For those who love small, nostalgic cinemas, where the tickets are sold by the same person who makes your delicious popcorn and plays your movie. Such a nice place to hide from the busy Istanbul life.



Portraits Monica Fritz, Julia Forsman, Sangita Garg



24 HOURS IN ISTANBUL Beyond the typical tourist attractions, photographer and Alternative City Tours owner Monica Fritz asks residents if they just had 24 hours in Istanbul, what would they do?

Monica Fritz

Photography for Cornucopia Mag. and owner of Alternative City Tours – photography walks in Istanbul and Italy. Istanbul is too big to see all its hidden wonders in a day. Some of my favorite places in Istanbul are the ones that have stayed the same over time, not yet touched by the iron hand of urban planners. There are still many of these places, such as the Kurşunlu Han, an oasis among the hardware shops of Perşembe Pazarı, in the shadow of the wonderful Oriental façade of the Ottoman Bank. Kurşunlu Han is a caravansary built by the great Sinan in 1561, very elegant with its original stone pavement, above the grape vines are a series of arches and passageways once inhabited by Silk Road travelers, now a mixture of nuts and bolts workshops and artist’s studios, the place has a unique flavor. I also love the very strong atmosphere of a Russian Orthodox church called Aya Andrea, hidden up in an apartment building, one of three, it is only open on Sundays where mainly women gather, praying for hours on their feet. A sermon is held by a long-haired Greek priest, the large bell is at the top of the stairs. Following the service, the worshipers have a lovely breakfast in a brightly sunlit room adorned with photos of Mount Athos and Atatürk. The list goes on: there is a secret synagogue in a Caravansaray below the Grand Bazaar with a very friendly group of Jewish merchants, the last in the area; the more renowned Pammakaristos church with its breathtaking 13th century mosaics, and Rüstem Pasha Mosque, as it was before. In Üsküdar, both the Valide Sultan Mosque’s courtyard and the plane trees in the Selimiye Mosque, are magical at sunset; Wednesday is the weekly market below; The tea gardens in Moda on a weekday morning still feel like walking into an old Turkish romantic film and on and on…

Jennifer Gaudet

Owner of Jennifer's Hamam located in the Arasta Bazaar, down from the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet. Hand-woven textiles Since I work a lot of hours and am in the heart of Sultanahmet, if and when I have time to take a day off, I always do it during the week, so that the places I like to visit aren't so busy and I'm away from all the hustle and bustle. My day in Istanbul starts very early with a drive to the Belgrad Forest to for an early morning walk on the 4.5km trail; it's the only forest in Istanbul and when there, you can't believe that you're still in the city. My brisk walk finished, I would head off to Rumeli Kavagi - all the way at the end there are a few nice Turkish breakfast places perched over the Bosphorus with wonderful views and still nice and cool in the early morning. The third bridge is open now and it's a short drive to some of the lovely Black Sea swimming spots on the Asian side. Riva has some lovely beach areas; during the week it's not over-crowded and great for swimming, walking and sunbathing. When it's time for lunch, not so far away is a great little place right on the Çayağız Stream for a nice lazy, long Turkish BBQ. After all this wonderful exercise in nature and great Turkish food, I would drive home and walk over to Fine Dine at the top of Blue Arcadia hotel in Sultanahmet for the sunset, a nightcap and the best view in all of Sultanahmet. After all that, I would walk home and flop into bed.


Nili Morris

Caroline Finkel

If I had a day in Istanbul I would first have an amazing breakfast on the terrace at Mangerie (Bebek) followed by a Bellini at Lucca's. I love the simple yet classy atmosphere at Mangerie and the view from the terrace is amazing. Best to go during the week as it can get quite busy at weekends. I would burn off my breakfast by taking a gentle stroll on the seaside between Kuruçeşme and Rumelihisarı. I would pop into the Borusan Art Gallery in Rumelihisarı. Finally, I would hop on the boat at Rumelihisarı to have mezze & rakı dinner at Uskumru by the Bosphorus. All day without the need for a car! Perfect!

I would go out of the city. In the old days when everything was newer to me I would go on historical tours of the city and see stuff that was related to the history I knew or I was learning, but I do that less these days. When visitors come I love to go on a boat up the Golden Horn to Pierre Loti, even though it is very touristic, it has this amazing view. Whenever I go off with other friends who’ve been here a long time, I like to go wandering, we always discover new stuff, even in a place you’ve been to 10 times before, so one is never bored that way here, as an historian. You find a new building, an inscription, or whatever…there’s always something that relates to my great historical passion. However now I’m doing more hiking and getting outside the city with our project for 20-kilometer day hikes in the city’s hinterland. This means basically going to the end of the line which is much easier these days since the metros go out of the city, often having to get onto a bus after that and going to some village, walking through other villages to get to another village where you can get home again after a day out. I really enjoy being out in these villages, they are mostly agricultural villages. I grew up on a farm, as one gets older one tends to return to one’s roots, so I find it endlessly fascinating. If I had 24 hours, I would certainly, without particularly knowing where one’s going, get on a metro, get on a bus, go to the end of the line and wherever you were, you can always get home, and just see what there is to see.

Dentist turned lawyer by profession, but passionate about the city and its food and adores sharing it with others through Istanbul Food Walks. #istanbulfoodwalks

Billur Karabenli

Real Estate agent and relocation: istanbulstayandservices. com I came to Istanbul when I was two years old. Oh, my childhood was on the Asian site at Kadıköy. I remember that I was holding my mom's hand among the streets of the colorful green market. We were living just opposite the opera house which was a movie theater at that time. From Bahariye Street me and my brother went to our school in Moda every day. On the weekends, my father would sometimes take us to theatre or cinema. Or all of us would go to Moda to eat ice cream at ‘Ali'nin yeri’ (Meşhur Dondurmacı Ali Usta) and sit at the tea garden under the trees, watching the Marmara Sea and drinking tea. We would take the ferry to Karaköy to see my aunt who was working at a bank overlooking Galata bridge. Baylan Patisserie was very cool. Some of the desserts were very European, like Küp Griye and Rokoko, which we shared with my mother. Then we would buy a simit for the seagulls and return back to Kadıköy. My father would take us to Caddebostan to swim. There was no Migros there before, but a big music hall called Maksim. Our first time there we saw Raffaella Carra in her white body and shining fancy boots singing and dancing crazy. The good old days :) Now I've been living in Cihangir for over 20 years. I'm working with expats and showing them the beauty of the Golden Horn and the area but I recommend they not forget about the Asian side. The open green market is still there. The movie theater turned into an opera house. Baylan now has a branch in Kadıköy. There are old ferries going between Karaköy and Kadıköy, and you still have a chance to pass the crossing with a seagull – with one delicious simit for him and one for you.


Historian and hiker, author of Osman’s Dream. She helped create the Evliya Çelebi Way, Turkey’s first long distance walking and riding route, and co-wrote a guide to the route with Kate Clow and Donna Landry.

Hiking Istanbul on Facebook: 20-kilometer day walks. Open to anyone, and it’s free. You only have to be a fairly competent walker.

Elisa Sassera

Founder of Casa Bimbi, tri-lingual educational center in Cihangir based on the Reggio Emilia Approach www. I would first take my guests to the Sultanahmet area, Aya Sofia and Topkapı Palace and then I would like to have them experience one of the fantastic jewelry workshops at the Grand Bazaar with a master jeweler. I would then move over to Balat because I really love Balat and its historical atmosphere. The traditional architecture of Balat reminds me of old Palermo, and its narrow cobblestone streets. Then I would take them to try one of the balık ekmek food stands in Karaköy: the fish, rocket and pickles are a great combination and it reminds me again of Palermo and its street food. I would offer them some Turkish tea or coffee, something not to be missed! Further into Karaköy there is the famous Güllüoğlu baklava shop, the pistachio baklava is my favorite when eaten with ice cream. A walk up to Galata is always fun for window shopping. As an Italian, I’m not a fan of churches, I would never go to a church for Christmas normally, but I feel it’s nice to connect to people here and enjoy going to St. Antonio for Christmas. I enjoy taking the kids to St. Antonio for Christmas here, there are lovely nativity scenes, the lights, the Christmas tree and the chorus. Lastly, I would like to show my guests the wonderful galleries on Istiklal and a sunset dinner at 360 restaurant.

Sangita Garg

Lawyer by profession Istanbul to me has too many meanings - from an architectural haven, to historical archive (the town is bursting at the seams with history and legend), from food and drink to the bazaars, from the Bosphorus which its fame is tied to, to the Sea of Marmara on one side and the Black Sea on the other. I can go on and on. I have had guests who have wanted to see the city in a day and others who found even 10 days too little. Just seeing the color of the water change over a single day is a delight in itself. But what I find most satisfying and that which brings together all elements of what Istanbul actually is, is an off-thebeaten-track tour of the mosques. No, not just the square of Sultanahmet but the mosques spread around the city. Their spectacular architecture inside and out, the vistas that you can see from their gardens, the decor and tile work and most of all the spirituality that emanates from within, these are what have tied me to Istanbul - the search for spirituality that somehow just hums around them. I would start the morning with Eyup Sultan, one of the most beautiful Sufi shrines, and walk up the hill to the terrace of Pierre Loti to grab a breakfast on the tea terrace and enjoy the view of the Golden Horn (there is an old bakery at the mosque that has the most amazing coconut cookies!)

Sevil Delin

Writer of the Louis Vuitton Istanbul Guide, Voiceover artist and founder of Momcierge (travel concierge for families) If I had only one day in Istanbul, I’d start with breakfast in Cihangir, my neighborhood. Journey and Kahve6 both make excellent Turkish breakfasts. Then, I’d head to Eminönü and get on the ring ferry that zig zags up and down the Bosphorus. It’s the best way to see the whole city in one day. You can see the old city, and the yalıs of the Bosphorus. If you’re lucky, you might even see some porpoises or dolphins. When the ferry stops at Kanlıca, make sure to buy some yoghurt sprinkled with powdered sugar from the itinerant salesman who comes briefly on board. You can also sip tea on board and eat sandwiches (which you can share with the seagulls that always fly behind the boats, waiting for a snack). Get out at the last stop on the Asian shore, Anadolu Kavağı, and have some meze and fish at one of the many eateries in this charming fishing village littered with scavenging cats. Then hop back on board the boat, and return to Eminönü. From there, head to Karaköy for dinner. If you’ve got money to spare, have dinner at the amazing Mürver, or try Gümrük for a better value meal.

Walking through the Fener and Balat areas with beautiful lanes of old Ottoman architecture and views of the Old Greek school standing spectacular atop the hill, you make your way towards the Egyptian market or the Spice Bazaar. Lunch needs to be had in the back lanes of the bazaar, where stands the little Rüstem Pasha mosque, my personal favorite.  It has the most beautiful tile work inside and out. Add to the experience coffee from Mehmet Efendi where the old people come daily and queue up to buy just enough fresh ground coffee for the day, the best of künefe roasted right before your eyes, the eternal kebaps, and a 100-year old candy shop! With a full belly, head to the Yavuz Selim Mosque (with its cistern now converted to a football field), Süleymaniye mosque for the most spectacular architecture and views of the confluence of the Bosphorous and the Sea of Marmara, and finally Fatih mosque; each with their own stamp in the history and religious curtain of Istanbul.  These mosques may look similar from the outside, but experiencing them and the communities that surround them make for a unique experience. Take a sunset ferry to the Asian side, passing by the Maiden’s Tower and experience the uniqueness of the other continent. Even if you don’t want to, we have to stop for the day at a meyhane for a fish and rakı dinner in the neighborhood of Kadıköy. And wait for another day to dawn.




Feature and Photography MIHAELA DRAGAN



Balat Balat is the kind of place I always want to return to and enjoy the homely neighborhood feeling. The diversity of its residents from various cultural backgrounds and beliefs (Jewish, Christians, Orthodox and Muslims) formed a rich mosaic of fantastic architecture, monuments, colors, traditions and food. Balat preserves the spirit of old Istanbul, hosting a small Jewish community (Ahrida Synagogue is one of Istanbul's oldest synagogues, built in the 1400s), the patriarchate of the Eastern Orthodox Church, and some of the most beautiful churches and Christian art in the world (Chora Museum displays Muslim and Christian artwork). It was a Tuesday morning when I decided with my friend Gabi to explore its colorful streets. Luckily enough, we found ourselves in the thick of the weekly market, which was packed with locals. The sellers were calling their customers by name, as though they knew each other for a long time. The market prides itself with fresh organic produce, but you can also find clothes and branded cosmetics. After bargaining for a MAC eye shadow palette, like true housewives, we went on to find a good breakfast place.

One of the oldest districts in Istanbul, formerly known as the little Greece, it is nowadays a trendy hangout place with unique design stores and hip cafes. Among them is Forno Balat, a small and minimalist place, famous for its rich Sunday brunches, pide and lahmacun. After eating our menemen and sucuklu pide, we went on to conquer Balat’s hills and find the Greek Orthodox College Fener. Built in the 1880s, the locals call it Kirmizi Kale (red castle), due to its red brick and castlelike façade. The resemblance is not by chance, as the Greek architect Konstantinos Dimadis was known for his European castles designs. The college became the area’s landmark, which attracts large crowds, such as history enthusiasts, photographers and avid explorers. We caught our breath on the stairways next to Fener and enjoyed the views – children playing carelessly in the streets, shabby Ottoman mansions leaning against each other, connected by lines of drying clothes and the Golden Horn shining in the daylight sun.

After exploring the hills, we headed out to Vodina Street – the heart of the district. Here you can find a large selection of antique shops and even an auction house - Fener Antik Mezat, where every day at sunset people gather to auction for vintage items. The street is filled with tiny art workshops, local shopkeepers and boutique cafes. The smell of freshly baked bread will draw you inside one of the oldest bakeries in

Istanbul. The 60 years old Tarihi Taş Fırın Evin Unlu Mamulleri is baking their famous crispy crackers after the same recipe in the original stone oven. If you want to enjoy the old Turkish style of eating and drinking, head over to Agora Meyhanesi, a

140 years old meeting point for locals and travelers. Despite the stunning vistas and historic attractions, Balat remains largely unperturbed by the tourist trade that characterizes the atmosphere on the other side of the Golden Horn.




To get to Galata: By Tram, the closest stop is Karaköy By Metro, the closest stop is Şişhane

To get to Balat:

There are several buses that take visitors along the Golden Horn/Kadir Has Caddesi route. In order to see Balat, you can stop at Fener, Koprubasi, Balat or Balat Hastenesi stops.

You can also use the following apps

While Balat is a more traditional area, where you shouldn’t be too liberal with your outfit if you want to blend in, Galata is a modern neighborhood filled with designer boutiques, art galleries, restaurants and bars. Afternoons in Galata are loud and lively. If Fener College is the landmark of Balat, Galata is clearly identified by the historic Galata Tower. Every side cobblestoned street has something interesting to explore, eat or buy. Galip Dede street is the continuation of the main shopping artery in Istanbul – Istiklal. While descending this hilly street, you will find several music stores, with cats lounging on the instruments, making it hard to not snap a picture. You will smell the unique fragrance of hamam soaps, mixed with the aroma from kebap and kumpir being cooked. All along the street you will hear a variety of languages, just like in the Ottoman times, when Galata was a cosmopolis. The French, Germans, Italians, British, Russians and many more had their own communities, with places of worship and schools.

Serdar-ı Ekrem street is bursting with life, being home to local designers’ stores, art galleries, tattoo parlors, and vintage shops. Creative agencies opened offices nested in beautiful neoclassical buildings, due to Galata’s young and dynamic rhythm. Galata has something to satisfy all tastes. Are you in the mood for coffee? Try Federal for the amazing taste, Mavra – the locals’ favorite, or Latife if you’re in the mood for Turkish coffee. Or maybe you are looking for great food? Then head over to Neolokal for a Michelin-quality dinner experience, or Furreyya Galata Balıkçısı if you prefer a more down-to-earth seafood restaurant. If you fancy some drinks after dinner, the rooftop restaurant of Georges Hotel comes with amazing sunset views, Sensus winery has a big selection of Turkish wines and Nardis Jazz Club is a great choice for live jazz performances and their elaborate bar menu.



Feature and Photography MIHAELA DRAGAN

GÖRÜŞÜRÜZ ISTANBUL! one day road-trips

When people think of Istanbul, one of the first thoughts that come to mind is a huge, bustling metropolis. This is not far from reality, as currently more than 15 Million people decided to live in the transcontinental city. Add to this the almost 4 Million vehicles, thousands of cats and dogs, ships crossing the Bosphorus, planes hovering in the sky and there you have it – a constantly moving crowd, to which you adapt or escape. If you do feel the need to recharge your batteries, consider taking these day trips.




Uçmakdere is a 3-hour drive from Istanbul and it is a paradise for nature sports, photographers and history enthusiasts. The mountain road is carved into Ganos Mountain (950 m) – the second greatest ascension of Trakya. It became popular as a paragliding spot, but even if you are not into extreme sports you can enjoy its unspoiled nature and sea. Uçmakdere Köyü is a village hidden by nature, where you can enjoy a beautiful environment, clean air, organic food and happy, friendly locals. If you’re feeling hungry, try their home-made gözleme or the village breakfast.

Köfte Tekirdağ is famous for its köfte - a type of grilled meatball. Özcanlar is one of the most famous “köfteci” in Tekirdağ. If you are more of an adventurous kind of person, less of a foodie, stop by Köfte Airlines. You can enjoy the meatballs inside a real refurbished Boeing cargo, or just visit its intact cockpit and pretend to be a pilot for a moment. In the garden you will also find a small animal farm and hammocks for admiring the airplane. Wine

The inland areas of the Tekirdağ region are fertile farmland, where locals grow some of the best grapes for winemaking and rakı. If you wish to relax and spend some quality time away from Istanbul, then Barbare Vineyards is the right place to be. The winery sits in the middle of a large vineyard and produces 100,000 bottles of wine every year. Their main star is a light red wine, but you can enjoy a wine & cheese tasting, while taking in the beautiful view.



Located on the Asian side on the outskirts of Istanbul, Polonezköy is one of the most popular and unique villages in Turkey. The majority of its inhabitants are of Polish descent and they still preserve their own culture and history. During the weekends, the village comes to life, as Istanbulites come to enjoy a day in the nature. Among the popular sights you can visit Polonezköy Culture House, Częstochowa's Church, Polish Cemetery, Apiculture Museum or go shopping for local goods and Polish textile products exhibited at the central square. If you’re feeling adventurous head over to the 5 kilometers trekking and hiking track through the forest.

Sapanca, Masukiye and Kartepe

A 2-hour drive along the motorway can bring you to Sapanca Gölü, a big lake east of Istanbul. Local breakfast facilities are packed during the weekend, so try to arrive as early as possible to enjoy a relaxing time at the lake. Masukiye village is famous for its manmade waterfalls and its lush forests. The best way to enjoy Masukiye is to choose a restaurant by the waterfall, enjoy a fresh trout fish, while the water flows beneath the dock with its musical sound. If you’re looking for some fresh mountain air, Kartepe is welcoming you any season of the year. One of Turkey’s major ski resorts, Kartepe has 14 ski slopes covering an area of 42 kilometers. At 1699 m the views are quite scenic, as the peak is overlooking the Gulf of Izmit and Sapanca Lake.


Heybeliada is the second biggest island of the four Princes Islands and a breath of fresh air on the Anatolian side of Istanbul. Renting a bicycle is the best way to discover the island’s charm. Pay attention to the Ottoman mansions whose exteriors have faded with the years, the brightly colored wisterias and the joyful birdsong. One of the secret spots of the island is the little monastery of Hagios Spyridon (Terki Dünya in Turkish). Perched on the west end of the Pine Harbor (Çam Limanı), the monastery was built in 1868 and rebuilt in 1894 after it was destroyed in an earthquake. Unfortunately, after restoration it was badly damaged by fire and is now falling into ruins. However, if you are looking for a peaceful terrace, to enjoy a tea or Turkish coffee and admire the panorama, this is the perfect hidden spot.


Mihaela is a Transylvania native living the life of an expat in beautiful Istanbul. She enjoys exploring Turkey, capturing its colors and sharing the experiences with the world. This is how was born. You can follow Mihaela on Instagram at mihaela._.dragan


Feature and Photography JEANNE QUINN FERNÁNDEZ





met the sculptor Candan Arici, like one does in Istanbul, while sipping a drink at a local bar in Galata. She unexpectedly invited me to see her studio. I said ‘of course’, and so we stood up and I followed her down to old Karaköy, not to the revamped art gallery district but through the narrow bustling, rough-and-tumble streets where countless hardware stores sell an array of essential tools to the everyday workman and women. We walked down an alleyway at Tersane Cad. Kardeşim, that ends with a decrepit wall seemingly squeezed into a space far too small for it. The wall had a stone archway, with a sign that said ‘Kurşunlu Han’. We skeptically went in and to our surprise we were suddenly jolted back through time; the building unrestored, decayed in all its authenticity, was much bigger than we expected, with two floors of arches and domes of brick and stone. The overgrown courtyard was bustling with life and work. Caravanserai or better known as hans were built during the Byzantine and Ottoman times. They are rectangular fortresslike buildings with just a single entrance guarded by a large portal door made of iron to repel marauding bandits. They were used as overnight lodgings by traveling merchants and sailors, and also offered warehousing, workshops, and offices. Candan begun to tell me about the history of this particular han with heartfelt sincerity. She told me that the stone pathway where we were standing was Byzantine, and that the head of a broken column on the floor next to the entrance was Corinthian easily identified by its leaf pattern. It is now put to good use as it is a platform for tools and machinery. She then pointed to where there was once a church named San Miguel, better known as the cathedral of the Genovese, but that it was destroyed in the early 1500s. She proceeded to walk me through the first floor of the han and she showed me how one can tell that it is Genovese by its gothic arches. The second floor, on the other hand, was built in the 1540s by Rüstem Pasha, the grand vizier of Sultan Suleiman. He hired the renowned architect Mimar Sinan to build an eight-domed han that was once quite luxurious.


By the 1920s, however it all changed. The War of Independence forced the metal workers to dedicate their skills to making weapons for the war effort. Today this area has become the center of made-to-order pipes, springs, nuts and bolts or anything the customer requires. Candan first went to Kurşunlu Han during her art school days at the illustrious Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University. She would pick up metal scraps to be used in her sculpture such as metal hair for her clay figurines. About six years ago, she decided to move her studio there. It is big and spacious with high vaulted ceilings and with natural light coming through its large arch windows that is sublime. Now, every day, she is inspired by its history, by the artisans that once worked there, by the materials used and by the craftsmanship exposed and untarnished. But equally, she is also driven by the pulsating sounds of constant hammering, grinding metal and flames torching. These are sounds of metalworkers at work. Candan thinks of them as comrades for she too hammers, sculpts and torches. She also carves, chisels, and molds. Candan has had three major collections. She uses stone, plasticine, metal, and glass to create her work. Her first major collection were life-size stone abstract pieces. She was inspired by her studio wall, and its longevity. Her second collection, Eve, are bronze figurines inspired by unabashed natural states. Her third collection are bronze figurines and glass. For this work, she travelled the vast universe, and reached deep into her consciousnesses. Candan is the first women ever to rent at Kurşunlu Han, and now she is attracting other artists to also rent and join her. She is creating an artistic hub named Artists On Board and will be holding openings and events at her studio.

For more information on Candan and the other artists she works with at the han, refer to the following: Candan Arici - telephone 0 505 822 8414. Instagram: candanarici Dogan Ergen- metal designer; Instagram: atoleysmansiz Gulen Kesova – ceramic; Instagram: guken_kesova Nilhan Sesalan- sculpture; Instagram: vnilhansesalan AlpagutAyberk- painter; Instagram: studio_alpagut_ayberk About Jeanne Quinn Fernández: My father was an American engineer and we travelled the world. My mother was the daughter of Spaniard miners and raised near Albi, France. I moved to NYC to pursue the arts.


When I first came to Turkey I found myself in situations when I wanted to say something but didn’t, because I didn’t know how. And on many occasions it was hard to complete certain tasks and get things done because it was difficult to communicate the information without knowing the language. Actually, my move to Turkey came so unexpectedly that when I got here I didn’t even know how to say “günaydın” (good morning). Therefore, to make some hardships a bit easier for you, I present to you some Turkish phrases that can help you navigate day-to-day situations so that you won’t have to move around always accompanied by a friend who has become more of translator. First things first, the basics for the absolute beginners: Good morning: günaydın Good evening: iyi akşamlar Good night: iyi geceler Hello: merhaba My name is…: Adim….. When someone is working you tell them to ‘take it easy’: kolay gelsin Bon appetit: afiyet olsun Looking ahead, after a couple of months of staying in Istanbul and getting to learn a little bit of Turkish, you may want to try to have a conversation, but find the tempo a little too quick for you. For that you can use the following phrases: I don’t understand: Anlamadım / anlamıyorum Please speak slowly: Lütfen daha yavaş konuşun! Please say that again: Bir daha söyler misiniz? Do you speak English?: İngilizce biliyor musunuz? If you were asked: “Do you speak Turkish?: Turkçe biliyor musun (musunuz)?”, you can give the following answer: “ Yes, a little : çok az Turkçe biliyorum.”



Now, as you’re getting used to staying in Turkey and you begin to interact more with Turkish people you may find yourself in the following situations:

Scenario: In public means of transport:

If you want to get through: Pardon, geçebilir miyim? To ask someone to sit down in your spot: Siz böyle gelin (come this way) siz burada oturun (sit here, formal speech)

Scenario: In a café or a restaurant:

To get the attention of the waiter: Pardon, bakar misiniz? If you’re ordering Turkish coffee the waiter will probably ask you “Sade, Orta, Şekerli?” which, in order, means: sugar free, mildly sweetened, sweet. If you’re ordering fast-food, or you’re at Starbucks, the cashier will ask you what you will drink: Içeceğiniz nedir? And then you’ll be asked for its size: Hangi boy? And generally there is three sizes: küçük (small), orta(medium), büyük (big). Where’s the toilet?: Tuvalet nerede? How much?: Ne Kadar? Can I get the bill?: Hesap alabilir miyim?

Scenario: While at the supermarket, an office, a bank or maybe even the hair salon, basically, any place where you would have to wait for your turn:

When someone cuts the line: Pardon, sıra var burada! (There is a line here) Biz de bekliyoruz senden önce geldik (We’re also waiting and we came before you) When somebody interrupts you while talking to the cashier/ hair dresser/ etc: Pardon ben konuşuyorum burada. (Excuse me, but I am speaking here)

In front of: onünde Behind: arkasında Before: önce After: sonra Inside: içinde Outside: dışında

On top of: üzerinde Under: altında Between: arasında Near: yakınında I’m lost: Kayboldum

Scenario: At a cell phone carrier:

I want to buy a sim card: Sim alacağım / almak istiyorum The employee will probably ask you: fatura mı? (Where you commit to pay the same amount of money for the same services every month, you can answer by evet or hayır. If you refuse you’ll be getting a “paket” whenever you want without the obligation of having it every month) I want to get a packet: paket yaptırmak istiyorum. What are the offers you have?: Neler var? Paketleri bakabilir miyim?

The library is behind the metro station: Kütüphane metro istasyonun arkasında Where is (your destination)?: (your destination) nerede? Where can I find a (supermarket)?: Nerede (supermarket) bulabilirim? Elaa Jamazi is a computer engineering student at Istanbul Technical University. She enjoys theater, movies and keeps herself busy with different social activities.

Scenario: Asking for or giving directions:

Go straight ahead don’t turn: Düz git hiçbir yere sapma Keep walking straight on this road: Doğruca yürümeye devam et/ Bu yolda yürümeye devam et Turn left: Sola dönün / Turn right: sağa dönün / Turn right at the corner: köşeden sağa dönün/ Turn left at the traffic lights: Trafik ışıklarından sağa dön When you see (the store) turn left: (Mağazayı) gördünüzde sola dönün Across the street from the (convenience store): (market)ten karşısında Next to the market: Marketten yanında








TURKISH DELIGHTS The post-saray Turkish Cuisine is a fusion between Middle Eastern and Mediterranean tastes. Many a plate has lost their identity between the Balkan, Turkish, Cypriot, Greek and even Israeli kitchens. However today we will focus on the Istanbul dishes that you meet, eat and keep it in your soul and memories for ever. Kebap

Kebap is essentially grilled meat - the equivalent of what is known in the West as barbeque, and it can be found in every corner of every city of Turkey. Generally, kebaps are served with bulgur and green salad, grilled tomatoes and peppers, a type of pickle (turşu) and bread (can be pide or lavaş). I recently read that there are 102 different types of kebap. My personal favorite is the Beyti Kebap... Or maybe the Iskender… Or the kuzu şiş… So many choices, so little time to try them all! But as far as places to go in Istanbul, there are two locations of Melekler Kebap at Taxim. Choose the newer shop if you want to be entertained by the owner, or the older one if you want just to eat. Order a mixed grill and wash it down with an ayran or şalgam. If you are a döner person, try Petek in Galata.

For health and safety reasons çiğköfte that is served as a street food or in restaurants contains no meat. So, it is a vegan delicacy! I haven’t yet found a favorite çiğköfte place, if you have one please let me know. This is just the start of what to eat in Istanbul. There are places that you have to visit, and taste their food if you want to feel the city all over you. Eating out is not just the quality and price. In Istanbul eating out is socializing and understanding the city better and being a part of it. After almost 10 years in Istanbul I came to realize that not every oven makes the same bread and not every lokanta serves the same rice! Afıyet Olsun!


Menemen is the ultimate Turkish breakfast staple. It is nothing more than tomato, peppers and scrambled eggs. Sometimes feta cheese, or yellow cheese (kaşar) is added, olives, or even sucuk! Spices are essential, and the mix differs from place to place. If you go to Gedik Paşa in Beyazit, there are many bufes that make a nice menemen. The area is dedicated to shoe wholesalers and the majority of the crowd are men - so be prepared and relax!

NOTE: Urfa and Adana are two cities famous for their kebaps and meat culture. Both versions are made from the same part of lamb. Their difference is that Urfa style is simple meat with salt and some pepper, while Adana style can be so spicy that I advise you to order a glass of ayran to cool your palette.


If you have no problem with spicy food, then you have to taste çiğköfte, which literally translates to ‘raw meatball’. Traditionally it is made with 40% mincemeat 40% bulgur and 20% chili pepper paste. No cooking is involved. Just use your hands and knead for 40 minutes. It is served on lettuce leaves with lemon and pomegranate molasses or as durum.


Sarıyer Börekcisi is the most famous börek place in Istanbul with multiple locations in the city. In my opinion, one of the most authentic places to try it is in Kadiköy, at the pedestrian square.

Balık Ekmek

Galata Bridge offers one of the most cinematographic scenes in the city – notably, the people fishing where the Golden Horn waters meet the Marmara Sea and Bosporus.


Everyone translates gözleme as a Turkish crepe, but it is not. The dough, the purpose and the overall concept is different. For me, gözleme is the quickest and freshest pastry you can have. It is prepared everywhere and it can be stuffed with mincemeat, spinach, potatoes, or cheese. Hala, on the European side is famous for their gözleme, but my suggestion is the next time you go to a farmers’ market, taste gözleme from the lady who makes it there! It also goes by the name Saç Borek, and that is because it is made using the Saç Tava, a metal curved pan similar to a wok. Favorite gözleme: Saturday Organic Market in Feriköy


A morning routine has to include simit. That sesame-covered bready bagel that keeps you company while traveling by ferry, or while you window shop. Every area has their simitci, but the center of simits is Tophane. Personally, I would avoid the simit in Karaköy and try the simit from the Eryilmazlar bakery at Boğazkesen Street in Topahane, as well as simit in Nişantaşı and Moda.


The first lahmacun I had was at Cihangir years back, when Madam Coco used to be a great Pizzeria, and Kardeşler kebap used to be a filthy and cheap kebap shop. Then Datli Maya came and taught us about the different origins of the Lahmacun.


In the surrounding neighborhoods of Karaköy or Eminönü you can get in touch with the local markets and esnaf (workers) and eat Balık-Ekmek. In simple English it is a fish sandwich, and it is heaven! The fish is usually bonito or mackerel (mackerel is usually imported and frozen but still tasty and nice!!). Don’t miss it. Favorite balık ekmek: Emin Usta at the Fish Market. Datli Maya is history, and Kardeşler is now a place that makes the most honest lahmacun in the area. However, I suggest you travel to Lahmacun at Findik at Arnavytkoy. First add a squeeze of lemon, then the salad, wrap it up like a burrito and eat it by the sea side!


My husband insists the reason married Turks become obese can be linked to eating börek! This oven-baked pastry has a thin crust, can be filled with veggies, meat or cheese, served as a roll (sigara böreği) or cut into bites (kol böreği), as a sort of lasagna (su böreği) or simply sliced, direct form the oven tray (tepsi böreği).

Note: In Hasköy, close to the Rahmi Koç museum, stop by the seaside, walk toward the iskele park and find the fish boat that serves balık ekmek, and sit under the trees, by the water and relax with your sandwich.


Kayseri is a city in Cappadocia famous for the pastrami (pastırma) and its mantı. Mantı is a local Turkish mincemeat ravioli steam-cooked and served with garlic yogurt and chili oil. Of course, there are variations according to local trends and resources: You can find Georgian mantı that are gyoza- sized. Another type of mantı is stuffed with spinach and baked instead of steamed. Sinop Mantısı is topped with walnuts and no yogurt. Or, you can find mantı made with phyllo dough instead of pasta dough, and wrapped as borek, cut into bites and baked (Sosyete Mantısı). Favorite Mantı: Yeniköy Emek Kahve

Tavuklu Pilav

After a hard night of partying in the UK, you visit the local kebapcı. When you are in Greece, you go for the closest cantin (food truck) for a sausage sandwich with 25 different sauces on top When you are in Turkey you go for something lighter. There are small cars in the middle of the street selling rice with chickpeas and chicken out of what looks like an aquarium. There isn’t much else to say, about it – it is just brilliant and what you need!! Don’t miss the cars at Ortaköy, Elmadağ and ArnavutköyBebek. If you are partying in Taksim, find Nizam and order a portion! You can follow Violeta at

How to make Pumpkin Spice Latte for Two Feature ANNA WNUKOWSKA

Pumpkin Spice Mix: 3 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons ground nutmeg 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1 1⁄2 teaspoons ground allspice 1 1⁄2 teaspoons ground cloves

What you will need: 2 tablespoons pumpkin purée (canned or home-made) 2 cups whole milk 1/2 teaspoon Pumpkin Spice Mix 2 tablespoon brown sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 2 shots espresso 2 portions of whipped cream Instructions: -Heat the pumpkin purée and Spice Mix in a saucepan, stir and cook for 2 minutes. -Add the sugar, stir until your mixture is even. -Warm the milk and add vanilla syrup. -Carefully pour everything into blender, add coffee shots, blend it well until it is smooth. -Pour into mugs, top with whipped cream, sprinkle some nutmeg on top. Enjoy!






afes and restaurants are abundant in Istanbul; from the local favorites to the high-end ‘need to be seen’ places. I am always looking for the great spots for that impromptu meetup with friends. I have listed some of my favorites below.

If you are looking for a healthy alternative to the boring salad try Bi Nevi Deli in Etiler. They create delicious dishes using plant-based, whole-foods. Their menu changes daily so there is always something new to try (and feel good about).

Federal Nişantaşı is the location to meet friends, or new ones, in the Topağacı. The Australian Roaster of Coffee is good news for us coffee lover. The ambiance, the coffee, everything is great; and it should as Aussies take their coffee very seriously. They also serve special coffee cocktails for a fun after diner drink.

Federal Nişantaşı Teşvikiye Mahallesi Ihlamur Yolu Sokak No: 34 34365 Şişli / İstanbul 0 (212) 241 48 73 Snog Roof Bar Şahkulu Mahallesi Galip Dede Caddesi No:56 Kat:4 34421 Beyoğlu/İstanbul 0 (212) 277 17 77 How about a before diner drink with friends (and an amazing view of the Bosphorus and Galata Tower)? Try Snog Roof Bar in Galata. The perfect escape from the crowd below. The cocktails are great; the staff is friendly; and the view is picture perfect. Miss the “American-style” breakfast, try Walter’s Coffee Roastery in Kadıköy. Taking inspiration from the television series “Breaking Bad”, Walter’s is the perfect laboratory of coffee. Using the stimulus from the hit-TV series, it is only natural that they have a great menu of pancakes, sausage and eggs.

Walter's Coffee Roastery Caferağa Mahallesi Badem Altı, Bademaltı Sk. No:21 34710 Kadıköy/İstanbul 0 (534) 241 83 86 Bi Nevi Deli Etiler Mahallesi Dilhayat Sokak No: 10/1 34337 Etiler / İstanbul 0 (212) 358 60 32



DESIGN RULES Feature and Photography ESE ERYUCE

You’ve just landed in the incredible city of Istanbul, you found your cozy nest — it’s a first step in immersing yourself in this beautiful city and discovering the 1001 magnificent things it offers. Let’s start with a tour of the different design houses and other possibilities to prettify your place. But first of all, let me introduce myself. I literally love design. When I enter a place, a home I immediately see what’s missing, or could be improved upon, and I redo the decor in my head. My motto is “don’t limit your imagination, and see further” and I apply this philosophy to my interior design understanding. I read a lot and travel often. Everything I see inspires me: a music note, the color of a flower, a bookshelf — I must feed my brain constantly. Furthermore, I believe that everything on earth has a second chance, and of course that applies to objects too. I recycle when possible. It’s a different approach from your neighbor’s decoration (often purchased from that well- known Swedish brand) and at the same time it contributes to the ecology. It’s a point of view. I’ve talked enough about myself. Now, grab your agenda and take notes on the places I will share with you.


Design Consultation If you need to redo the kitchen or renew some of your furnishings, you can check out Hamm design office website ( Their professional approach and their experience will satisfy you beyond your expectations. They also offer a free design consultation of your home. Auction Houses The districts of Balat and Tophane are full of places that run auction sales. You can combine the pleasure of bidding with a rush of adrenaline. At the end, you will have the satisfaction of bringing home your booty. All the objects start from 1 TL.

The list is far from complete but this is an overview of what awaits you. I hope you enjoy reading this and that I lit up some of your thoughts. If you need any advice or wish to collaborate with me, please don’t hesitate to contact me. P.S.: on Sundays, go have a look at Feriköy’s flea market (Şişli) Here are the addresses and opening hours for auction sales: Fener Antik Mezat : Balat Mahallesi, Vodina Cad. no:138, 34087 Fatih Open on Wed. and Fri. between 15.30-20.00, on Sat. and Sun. between 15.30-20.00. For more details, check the link below:

Ese Eryuce is a Turkish-Belgian interior designer, born in the city of Gent, Belgium. She studied Sales and Marketing and after a diverse corporate life, decided to completely change course. She moved to Turkey in 2014, obtained her real estate license, and eventually pursued her dream, earning a diploma in Interior Design. She is available for consultation at 0 534 824 7020 and her instagram account is @hometcetera Tophane mezati : Boğazkesen Cad. no:43/6 Tayfun Han Tophane, Beyoğlu Every Friday from 16.00 pm. Concerning old and vintage pieces, you can go to Aksaray in Fatih and discover Horhor Antikacilar Carsisi. It’s the cave of Ali Baba, and my version of Disney World. Furnitures, carpets, objects, lightings, books — everything is in this seven- floor building. Do not hesitate to haggle. It’s a national sport in Turkey. For more details, visit: For home textiles, wallpaper, curtains, upholstery and drapery, my go-to address is IMÇ in the Unkapani district in Fatih. It is definitely the place to know if you are looking for quality and good prices. The service and the smiling employees will help you in your choice. Visit their website for more information: Let’s not forget Cukurcuma in Cihangir. This district has an “open air flea market”. If you are addicted to second-hand shops, vintage boutique, you will find your happiness in this area.


SHIBU E C O UT U RE We did n 't c ro ss t he l in e. . . w e er a sed it!



You’ve heard the adage that ‘Clothes Make the Woman’ – that goes for what’s underneath too!


hether walking the red carpet, or sweating it out at the gym, Shibue® Couture is helping women around the world avoid wardrobe malfunctions with their innovative line of discrete undergarments and shapewear. Women can feel comfortable and confident that they are getting positive attention for what they wear. After dominating the runways in Paris, Miami, New York, Los Angeles and making headlines in the UK’s largest daily publication The Sun and more, Shibue® Couture unveiled that it’s the only trusted Strapless Panty worn on the runway during Fashion Week and keeps designers collection debuts


‘panty-line free!’ Now Shibue® Couture will be able to grace the runways, entertainment industry and the everyday women with the launch of Shibue® Couture in Turkey. Shibue® Couture was created by designer Jenny Buettner – it is a line of solution-based products to cure undergarment needs, including a variety of discrete bra shapewear. Shibue® Couture’s most innovative product is the first and only strapless panty on the market. The reusable Shibue® Strapless Panty erases panty line worries for any outfit and any occasion. It’s washable and reusable with a soft and silky silicone gel adhesive that is applied on the top front and back of the panty, leaving nothing but a traditional style thong in between with a cotton liner for protection.

for women, to solve the everyday fashion dilemma’s that we all have,” said Buettner. The Shibue® Strapless Panty has been featured on top models at Fashion Week since 2010 and is the unseen product that will make the designers fashion look flawless. You can find their line of products at Mendos and Ayyildiz stores, and soon in Morhipo, as well as through their website

Ulduz Azad, a food engineer, retail professional with extensive experience in supply chain and category management in such companies as Tansas, Migros and McDonald's saw an opportunity to reach the Turkish market with Shibue® Couture’s products. Currently a PhD student at Yıldız Teknik University in Marketing Management, she established a company to utilize her background. “As there is big potential in the textile industry in Turkey and also haute couture, I chose (to distribute) Shibue Products which are incommensurable.” Buettner recently debuted her latest Lace and Hold Up Collection in Paris that garnered attention from top designers, models and stylists across the world. “Fashion Week used to feel like a dream to us, but we knew we had the product that designers and entertainment industry didn’t even know they were missing. Now the couture will look flawless and the models will feel comfortable without having to risk baring it all for fashion’s sake. Everyone wins with The Shibue® Strapless Panty, and that’s what we were aiming for all along. When we look good, we feel good!” said Buettner who has expanded the Shibue line to include the coveted Instant Breast Lift, Shibue Skin Concealers, Non-Slip Collections and more. “Shibue has been created by women,



Feature and Photography VERENA RINGE




s a newcomer it is difficult to find what we need in Istanbul – this fascinating, historic and energetic city, and reading material is no exception. There are bookshops everywhere, but not many with foreign languages selections. Let us first look to the history of print and books in Istanbul and start with the first printing press and publishing house in Üsküdar/ Istanbul. As late as 1727 Ibrahim Müteferrika is credited with establishing the first publishing house in Istanbul, and his bust is proudly placed at the centre of the old book Bazaar in Beyazit. Interesting fact: at first, religious books were banned from the printing process, as the aesthetics of the script in the tradition of beautiful calligraphy only, seemed worthy of holy scriptures.

The Old Book Bazaar, the Sahaflar Çarşısı, is to be found behind the Beyazit mosque close to the beautiful gate of the Istanbul University. Records show that this was the site for trading of papers, scrolls, books and news even in Byzantine times, and after Constantinople fell to the Muslims in 1453 this tradition prevailed. Situated close to the university and the Grand Bazaar, it was the perfect meeting place for students, professors, writers, news-traders, pamphlet sellers and intellectuals from many different countries. Here, ideas of a philosophical, mystical, religious, scientific and political nature blossomed. Until very recently, when gatherings in the square were forbidden and the tea-gardens closed, the pleasure of reading and talking under ancient plane trees was very much alive.


The bazaar still sells books and if you are interested in old books, beautifully decorated Korans, religious scripts and political and philosophical bestsellers, this is the place to go. Most of the selections are in Turkish, but there are some English titles as well. I go there just for the fun of seeing copies of Karl Marx’ Capital, next to Hitler’s Mein Kampf, next to Atatürk’s Nutuk, next to Fahrenheit 451 and Camus, and many more classics. Another traditional place for books is the Aslıhan Passage, the Beyoğlu Sahaflar Çarşısı, within the Balık Bazaar in Beyoğlu (Hüseyinağa Mahallesi, Meşrutiyet Cd. No:18, 34435 Beyoğlu/ İstanbul). A narrow alley flanked by tiny shops, it is cramped with old books stacked on tables up to the ceiling. While browsing, I found rare, out-of-print books, well-worn copies next to nearly new novels, and antiquarian treasures in many languages, predominantly Turkish and English. It is difficult to walk out without a book or old magazine.

In the last 150 years, as the cultural centre with restaurants, elegant cafes, city palaces, theatres, galleries and foreign language schools, Beyoğlu was the pivot of modernity in Turkey. It is therefore, not surprising that many small, traditional bookshops have their home on Istiklal Caddesi. Opposite Tünel, the funicular tram, in the “Tünel Geçidi” passage are some bookshops with English titles. Past the Swedish Consulate, Türk-Alman Kitabevi (Şahkulu Mahallesi, İstiklal Cd. No:237, 34431 Beyoğlu/İstanbul), a German bookshop/ cafe, belonging for generations to the Mühlbauer family has, apart from German books and magazines, a cosy cafe, where alcohol is also served. Their offering of coffee and German pastries come recommended. Further along on the left there is Denizler Kitabevi (Tomtom Mahallesi, İstiklal Cad. 199/A, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul) with old maps and engravings in the window. Inside the shop is an old winding staircase and Victorian plaster ceiling decorations and books in Turkish and English on historic subjects, from the Ottoman Empire and Atatürk’s life and the Republic. Take your time, look around, sample the pleasure of books in an old-fashioned bookstore with a helpful attendant whose English is hesitant, but excellent. French books can be obtained at Efy (İstiklal Mahallesi, İstiklal Cd. & Emir Nevruz Sk. 2/6, 34430 Beyoğlu/İstanbul), located on a small side street just before reaching Galatasaray Lisesi. It is a quiet place, away from the hustle of the Istiklal Caddesi. Unfortunately, most books are scholastic in nature, and for learning French. But French bestsellers and a good selection of children’s books can be found. Down the hill from Galatasaray, past the Goethe Institute, a bookstore called Homer (Tomtom Mahallesi, Yeni Çarşı Cd. No:52, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul) invites you into an old narrow building with three storeys of English books. The staff is very book-wise and will gladly help you find what you are looking for. Some chairs are placed in window nooks to relax and browse before selecting a purchase. Further down is Arkeo (Tomtom Mahallesi, Yeni Çarşı Cd. No:66/A, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul), specialising in archaeological books. Though most books are in Turkish, there are a smattering of English and German books as well. Closer to Taksim, in the Büyük Parmakkapı Sokak, Pandora is a well-known and well-visited shop. One floor is dedicated to English-language books.

One of my absolute favourite places is the Minoa bookshop/ cafe in Beşiktaş, near Maçka Park (Vişnezade Mahallesi, Süleyman Seba Cd. 52/A, 34357 Beşiktaş/İstanbul). This shop has three floors and many English titles. You‘ll find books on architecture, costumes, plants, travel, cooking, environment, art etc. The cafe has a lovely atmosphere, not least because one long wall is stocked with second-hand books in many languages on a variety of subjects. You are welcome to read them while drinking your coffee and may purchase them for a low price to continue reading later. It is also one of very few places where you can order smoked pork ham to eat with your simit. It tastes delicious. For a steady supply of reading material, a library is a good resource. Information of foreign language libraries are generally obtained through the consulates’ cultural attaché’s offices. For English, try the British Council, for German the Goethe-Institut and for Spanish, the Instituto Cervantes. For best-sellers, classics and a selection of children’s books, the chain bookstores of D&R, Remzi Kitapevi and Mephisto are useful for a quick book-fix, especially prior to vacation.



MIXED MEDIA Between Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, YouTube, apps, blogs, and websites, how do you begin to wade through the amount of information at your fingertips? Amongst the many excellent online resources available, here are several Istanbul and Turkey-centric websites and blogs that entertain and inform.


Beyond köfte and kebap, for those interested in Turkish cuisine and culture, A Seasonal Cook in Turkey is a go-to resource. It was started by long-time Istanbul resident Claudia Turgut who explained the ins and outs of Turkish cuisine to other expats based on her actual experiences. After five years, she handed over the reins to Lulu Witt, who now runs the blog and captures the intricacies of Turkish cuisine through history and archaeology with her vivid photography and engaging writing style.

Around Town

Yabangee is a comprehensive online guide for both locals and visitors to Istanbul. It offers all kinds of information from upcoming activities, to dining recommendations, to profiles of interesting people, advice, local attractions and even job opportunities. Whether you are just getting introduced to the city, or want to keep up with what is happening around town, this is place to go. In addition to their website, you can find them on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter


No doubt Istanbul is a feast for the eyes, and that certainly extends to street style and fashion. Nil Ertürk is the woman behind the popular men’s boutique Bey Karaköy in Istanbul’s Karaköy neighborhood, and the online womenswear label Frea. Her blog and Instagram accounts focus on lifestyle, beauty and fashion and are presented in an understated and approachable way. Her website is: and you can follower her on Instagram at nilerturk


Turkey’s Culture Routes Society was established with the aim of preserving and promoting Turkey’s rich historical, cultural and natural assets. Their routes are aimed at walkers, cyclists or horse-riders and the routes are a means of deepening cultural understanding—both for city-dwelling residents, who are increasingly distanced from their rural past, and for international visitors who want to have greater insight into Turkey’s rural culture. In addition to their blog, they have extensive information on the various cultural routes around the country on their website, through guidebooks and tours. For more information visit:




Unless you have an avian-like internal compass – you will get lost in Istanbul. The network of labyrinth-like streets that suddenly end, change names or take you through hairpin turns and torturous inclines and descents are all par for the course and will frustrate and delay your journey. There are several apps that can help you plan your route. For driving, the Yandex app offers navigation in both Turkish and English, along with travel times. Trafi is a good resource for public transportation routes in Istanbul, Izmir, Ankara and Bursa, and can also be used offline. Oradan Buraya is another publication transportation app available in both English and Turkish and offers coverage in more cities like Konya, Kayseri and Kocaeli. For iOS/Android users, you can find the Yandex, Trafi and Oradan Buraya apps onlines You can also visit their websites:;;



NOTES FROM A MUSIC LOVER Music has always been my go-to medicine for the autumn blues. Dressed in a fluffy sweater with my favorite cup of tea, I surround myself with the smooth sounds of music. This is my selection for the fall. Dino Saluzzi Group - El Valle de la Infancia Imagine a peaceful valley somewhere in the beautiful country of Argentina, a country that gave birth to many exquisite musicians. This is where Dino Saluzzi’s music takes us – to the valley of his childhood. This album will take you to the roots of Argentinian folk music, it will tell you a story of a young humble boy whose love for music and talent brought him to ECM Records, one of the greatest record companies of all times. This album was recorded with Saluzzi’s family members. His bandoneón feels magical, his stories are filled with nostalgia. The band introduces us to the well- known sounds of Southern American music in Sombras. In Churqui Saluzzi and the two guitarists are the true wizards, they cast a spell on the audience with every tune. This music will warm your heart during cold evenings. Miles Davis Quintet - Workin’ with Miles This is the ultimate jazz classic. Recorded with a few other albums during two sessions with John Coltrane (saxophone), Red Garland (piano), Paul Chambers (bass) and Philly Joe Jones (drums). Miles Davis does not disappoint – this is a true masterpiece. It Never Entered My Mind is one of the most magnificent jazz compositions, in  In Your Own Sweet Way their music is flawless, the artists have a unique energy between them. They were able to create a timeless classic that is best enjoyed on a quiet night with a glass of red wine. Whitney Houston - The Greatest Hits Whitney Houston is my most beloved singer and my fascination with her started a long time ago, when I was a little girl. I know all her songs by heart. With her lovely voice she could do wonders that other artists could only dream of doing – she had no rivals. With the touching Whitney documentary in cinemas this year, it is a perfect time to remember her prominent body of work. The Greatest Hits was the first album I ever owned, it was a gift from my mother and I still own it to this day. This album’s features I Will Always Love You from The Bodyguard, I Believe In You And Me from The Preacher’s Wife, the bestselling single My Love is Your Love and the Grammy Awardwinning It’s Not Right But It’s Okay. An absolute must for all her fans. You can follow Anna on Spotify, and search for her Lale Playlists using ‘11120105825’








mong the list of things to do when you move to a new city is to look for reliable and recommended medical specialists. If you are a member in any of the online Facebook forums, you will inevitably run across this question, and in a city as large as Istanbul, you can find plenty of medical professionals – but will you have to travel two hours only to find that you can’t communicate, that the level of customer service is lacking, and you leave disappointed and frustrated with the care you have received? Tina Sheppard, who has a background in Healthcare and Sales, and is an InterNations ambassador has been in Istanbul for 3 years, and after several bad procedures was on a mission to find out where the good health care providers were and to share that knowledge. “As an American, we have high standards and my previous healthcare was quite good, however, in a city of 17 million people, 9 accredited hospitals, and recommendations based on hearsay, my first experience was awful from the treatment to the level of professionalism. After five bad procedures in a row, I was determined that this can’t happen,” she said. Through her network of friends, contacts, and extensive research, people started to come to her for referrals. She started a Facebook group called All About Skincare in Istanbul which is a resource for individuals to educate themselves on the latest in treatments, and an opportunity to meet reputable medical professionals and their staff. Approximately twice a month, Tina hosts cocktail hours with different doctors and their staff at their offices, and they talk about the latest skincare treatments. At every skincare event, they offer exclusive event-only pricing, complimentary private doctor consult, guest welcome gifts and a chance to win free skincare treatments.

Gökhan Ayseli, Rejuvenate Tours Managing Director

“It’s a fun way to see a new place, meet the doctors and staff, and learn,” she added

able to offer local prices to residents, who may want a different level or type of service.

Out of this process, Tina recently decided to partner with a Canadian and Turkish partner to start Rejuvenate Tours, a medical tourism company. They work with a pool of physicians, and other medical professionals in All the doctors they refer have been vetted personally. Their residency, training and experience have been researched and verified, they all speak English, and offer high quality care. Only specialists who Tina or her partners would use are on their list for referral.

“We are working hard to focus on the patient, and that they come first. We want to put them in good hands and it is important to match them with the right doctors. Some physicians don’t have the right bedside manner, so we are offering a different type of service as opposed to just recommending names.”

Their key selling point is that they provide personalized service for customers seeking general surgery, cosmetic procedures, dentistry and other nonsurgical procedures. And while they attract international customers who want the full package from accommodation to airport transfers to hosting, they are also

Tina Sheppard, Rejuvenate Tours Director of Sales and Marketing

For more information on All About Skincare in Istanbul and upcoming events, visit them on Facebook For more information on Rejuvenate Tours, visit: Web: Email: Phone: +90 536 994 9099; +90 551 459 0025 Facebook: Rejuvenate Tours

Juni Gilani, Rejuvenate Tours Director of Business Development




MINDFULNESS IN ISTANBUL Big-city living can be both energizing and exhausting, but you don’t need to invest in expensive resources to release that pressure valve. You can employ mindfulness techniques to live in the moment. What is mindfulness?

Mindfulness is a state of active attention on the present. Staying in the now. 'Stopping to smell the roses' so to speak. Its roots lie in Tibetan Buddhism, practiced by Buddhist monks to help calm the mind and live in the moment. More recently, mindfulness has become increasing popular with its utility overflowing from the therapy room into everyday life. Rather than letting life pass you by, mindfulness means living in the moment and staying in the now rather than dwelling on the past and what was or trying to anticipate the future.


How to practice Mindfulness

A practical way to practice mindfulness is to use your five senses: see, hear, smell, touch and taste. To demonstrate pay attention to your surroundings and ask yourself the following questions (respond with three to five answers)

• • • • •

What do I see around me? (e.g. red car, seagull, oak tree, sofa chair, TV, mobile phone etc.) What do I hear around me? (e.g. bird chirping, wind rustling, music on radio, car horn etc.) What do I smell? (e.g. fresh jasmine from tree, someone's perfume/cologne, exhaust fumes, cooking etc.) What do I feel (touch)? (e.g. summer breeze, sun on my face, sand between my toes, grass under my feet, chair under my legs etc.) What do I taste? (e.g. hot/cold drinks, spices from food, remnants from coffee etc.)

Julia Ozdemir MPsych(Clinical), BSc(Hons-psych), BA(Psych) is a specialist clinical psychologist with years of experience in both hospital and private practice mental health facilities. She received a Master in Clinical Psychology from the University of Western Sydney, an honours degree in Psychology from Sydney University and a Psychology degree from the University of Sydney. A native English speaker she recently moved to Istanbul from Sydney, Australia where she ran her own large clinical practice. She has recently started accepting clients at her Kalamış practice IstPsychology. For appointments you may call 0553 167 6444 or visit

Where to practice mindfulness

The list of where to practice mindfulness is limited only to your imagination. Some suggestions include:

• • • • • •

During your morning shower While looking out your window When eating a meal While you are walking As you go to sleep Listening to music in the car (especially in Istanbul traffic)

Now you know how to practice mindfulness. Go on, get lost in Istanbul!

Some useful apps Headspace, Smiling mind


mums’ n kids



TIPS FOR BACK TO SCHOOL It's hard to believe that the summer is almost over and a new school year is upon us. The upcoming academic year can create a mixed bag of physical and emotional challenges including getting back into a routine, fears about academic success, social concerns; dealing with bullying and fitting in with peers.


ere are some tips to help with the transition from summer to school.

Get back into a set routine It is important to allow the body time to adjust by adopting appropriate sleep habits at least one week prior to the start of school. Allocating age-appropriate bed times is vital to allow the body to gain the rest it needs. Don't forget being rested improves the mood, memory and performance. Speak to your child Discuss your child's expectations for the academic year. Remind your child that not everyone can be at the top of the class and help them set SMART (Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Realistic, Time-Based) goals to avoid disappointment. Listen attentively and address any social concerns they have. Empathize with your child and suggest positive productive behaviors to help manage situations. Foster / encourage independence As your child grows allow them to take on age-appropriate responsibility to foster independence. In the younger years this may include allowing them to set out their uniform, pack their school bag and prepare their snacks. For older students


this may include scheduling of appropriate time and resources for homework, assignments and free time to achieve the SMART goals set. Your transition Once you have dropped off the kids it is also important to schedule in some much-needed rest and relaxation or pampering time for yourself. A massage, manicure or pedicure or lunch with friends is a great way to start the school year! Don't forget to treat yourself, after a long summer you have earned it! Julia Ozdemir MPsych (Clinical), BSc(Hons-psych), BA(Psych) is a specialist clinical psychologist with years of experience in both hospital and private practice mental health facilities. She received a Master in Clinical Psychology from the University of Western Sydney, an honours degree in Psychology from Sydney University and a Psychology degree from the University of Sydney. A native English speaker she recently moved to Istanbul from Sydney, Australia where she ran her own large clinical practice. She has recently started accepting clients at her Kalamış practice IstPsychology. For appointments you may call 0553 167 6444 or visit

JOIN INTERNATIONAL WOMEN OF ISTANBUL! From Women, For Women International Women of Istanbul (IWI) is a non-profit social organisation, managed by volunteers with a membership of international women from more than 60 different countries of all different generations and backgrounds. Our mission is to provide a support network for international women living in and around Istanbul. For 40 years we have been strengthening friendships across borders - IWI brings together international women making life in Istanbul that much better. Whether welcoming and assisting newcomers in Istanbul or providing opportunities to socialise, building their professional network or giving back to the community, IWI has always provided a way for international women in Istanbul to exchange ideas, share challenges and offer support for one another. We look forward to meeting you! For more information, visit or contact us at


walk in my shoes




hese days, it isn’t unusual to invest a lifetime in training and developing your career, only to reach a point where you realize it isn’t what you want anymore. If you don’t have the financial, social and psychological support to take the next step, how do you move forward and change? By all accounts, Semiha Unal is a successful and accomplished businesswoman, but for years, she had put her needs second. Raised in the Netherlands, she came to Turkey and juggled multiple responsibilities as a daughter, wife and mother, all the while earning her MBA and climbing the corporate ladder. However, she struggled with cultural and personal challenges and an internal expectation to be perfect in all aspects of her life.


“If I look back, I tried to be perfect in every role I had in my life - as a mother, wife, student, daughter, colleague. I thought everyone should love me – and with this in my mind – I sacrificed a lot to make people happy.” When she got divorced 10 years ago, she established her own consulting business as one way to bring herself some happiness. “Although my business was doing well, I suffered from things that had happened in the past. I wanted to rid myself of those emotional issues, so I started coming into my own and learning about myself, exploring more about feminine energy, yoga, breathing, and astrology. Meanwhile the pipeline for my consulting was diminishing, so on the one hand I was scared about it, but I had more time for my hobbies and things I loved to do.” Among her passions is theatre and acting, salsa and tango dancing.

Through her self-exploration, she discovered how the past influences our thoughts, feelings and actions, and can limit our potential for growth. “Everything that materializes in our life is based on pattern programming that we hold inside from childhood. Our intentions, thoughts and feelings and choices are based on the beliefs we had created in the past. Those beliefs are limiting us in a way, and after discovering that, I started changing my thoughts, which led to a change in my emotions as well. We need to be conscious that we have that power within and that was a surprise for me. These were very spiritual concepts and not grounded in the physical, but my discoveries were explained in such a professional way that it made me think that I had to share this with other people who are struggling with emotions, who are going through similar stages like me”.

adding an ‘e’, it became Zevk – which means ‘joy’ or ‘pleasure’ in Turkish, and thus her new brand was created!

Using her expertise developing and delivering corporate training, she has created four modules that can be customized for corporate training, groups and individuals.

She is the owner of Business Support Turkey, a trademark of S4U Business Management and Foreign Trade Limited, which provides consulting services to companies wishing to increase business with Turkish enterprises, or increase their footprint in Turkey ( Her latest venture is called Zevk (

1. Self-love and listening to yourself 2. Having conscious relations with others 3. Masculine and feminine energy and how to interact with your partner 4. Work with joy

“Great teaching lies in the most intense feelings and experiences that you go through, but no one is teaching us how to manage them. I have a lot of business experience, academic knowledge, I love to learn, but no one told me how to cope with my emotions, or why I should care about myself. This is what I would like to teach people in general, in a very systematic, grounded way.” Semiha Unal is an entrepreneur with over 30 years of international business experience. She grew up in the Netherlands, and is fluent in Turkish, Dutch and English, and can also speak basic French and German.

As Semiha thought about what resonated most in her learnings, the most important thing was the balance between Zihin (mind), Vucut (body) and Kalp (heart). With balance, there is joy, and happiness. When she looked more closely at first three letters of each of those words, she discovered that by An avid dancer, a pair of tango shoes from Semiha's collection.





September 2018 Wednesday




Sunday 1


Istanbook Club Book Meeting















BüyükadaCoffee And Culture 17

İstanbul Whiskey Festival 18












İstanbul Whiskey Festival 24

Heybeliada - Coffee And Culture

IWI Welcome Meeting

Around Town in September 1 September 2pm-5pm; Istanbook Book Club Meeting: Ministry of Utmost Happiness via Facebook 1-2 September; Istanbul Cocktail Festival 2018; KüçükÇiftlik Park 4 September Büyükada-Coffee And Culture 11:00 - 13:30 With Optional Lunch; 5-8 September; 26. WorldFood Istanbul Gıda Fuarı at Tuyap and Kongre Merkezi 8-9 September; Uluslararası İstanbul VegFest - International Istanbul VegFest; Lifepark İstanbul • Sarıyer 9 September 2pm-5pm; A Strangeness in My Mind Global Minds Book Club Meeting via Facebook 11 Sept Tuesday Asian Side Coffee Morning 11:00 - 13:30; 14 September İstanbul Tatlı Festivali 16 -17 September • İstanbul Whiskey Festival/Viski Festivali.; Beşiktaş Sahili • Besiktas: 20 Sept Thursday European Side Coffee Morning 10:30 - 12:30; 20-23 September; Istanbul Coffee Festival in KüçükÇiftlik Park; 22 – 23 September • PhotoMaraton İstanbul 2018; ISTANBUL-SiRKECi GAR 22 September-4 November; Istanbul Design Biennieale; 23 September; Geleneksel Krep Günü Sun 2 PM • Saint Michel Fransız Lisesi 22 September; Bebek Waffle Festival: 23 September: Ortaköy Kumpir Festival; 25 Sept Tuesday Heybeliada - Coffee And Culture 11:00 - 13:30 With Optional Lunch; 28 September; Organik Ürünler Festivali Özgecan Aslan Yuruyus Parkuru • Göktürk 28 September 10am-1pm; International Women of Istanbul Welcome Meeting; Marriott Hotel Şişli;



October 2018











Sunday 6


Yoga Family Day 8







Global Minds Book Club Meeting 15






Istanbul Orientation



European Side Coffee Morning








Turkish Foods Cooking



Underground Walking Tour Of Istanbul

Around Town in October 4 Oct Thursday Anthony Cragg At The Istanbul Modern 18:30 - 20:00 With Optional Dinner; 5 - 7 October• GurmeFest İstanbul • Istanbul, Turkey 6 October 2pm-5pm; Istanbook Book Club Meeting to discuss Memoirs of a Polar Bear; via Facebook 7 Oct Sunday Yoga Family Day; 9 Oct Tuesday Asian Side Coffee Morning 11:00 - 13:30; 11 October Istanbul Jewelry Show; CNR Expo 11 Oct Thursday Turkish Breakfast At Home - Especially For Newcomers 11:00 - 13:30; 12 Oct Friday Turkish Odyssey - An In-Depth Introduction To Anatolian Civilization 10:00 - 15:00; 14 October 2pm-5pm; Global Minds Book Club Meeting on Norwegian Wood; via Facebook 17 – 28 October 28. Akbank Caz Festivali; 18 Oct Thursday European Side Coffee Morning 10:30 - 12:30; 23 Oct Tuesday Istanbul Orientation - A Newcomer’s Introduction To The City 10:00 - 14:30; 26 Oct Turkish Food Cooking Class 10:30 - 14:30; 31 Oct Wednesday Underground Walking Tour Of Istanbul 10:00 - 15:00;


social responsibility


LENDING A HAND Providing financial and consultative support for select charitable non-profit organizations is a priority for the International Women of Istanbul. Every year, their Social Responsibility committee accepts applications from different NGO’s who tackle important issues in the community based on priority areas that IWI members have agreed upon. This year, five organizations were granted funding to complete a project that supports IWI’s priority areas of assisting women and children. HADD /

HADD’s Mission: To socialize and educate young, under privileged women in Southeastern Turkey and teach the skills necessary to sustain and improve their social standings, whereby they can improve their problem-solving abilities, become entrepreneurs enabling them manage their own futures, while making use of their embedded traditional, cultural and artistic values. Project Objective: To teach under-privileged village women design and textile production skills. The intended outcome is to provide resources to these women and their family members by offering opportunities through education, demonstrating women’s value outside the home, and to stop the cycle of domestic violence and encourage better children rearing through education. Beneficiaries: Village Women of Mardin, Southeast Anatolia. Why is this project important or urgent? Statistics reveal that women in Turkey are in a far greater economically disadvantaged position compared to men and urgent action is needed to close this large gap.



DDD’s Mission: Doğasında Doğum Derneği’s main target group is mothers and babies. To provide info and health services for healthy birthgiving to disadvantaged Turkish women and refugees.

the number of games for blind children and in this way eliminate their disadvantage. We expect that our blind students will improve their strategic thinking, produce different ideas and they can do something mutual with children who aren’t blind.

Project Objective: This project focuses on the advancement of reproductive health, child development and healthy communication among family members through a training & capacity building program as a part of humanitarian aid for refugee women and their families. The project is initialized by an introductory awareness seminar program into Haymana, Ankara which is highly populated with refugees and disadvantaged people. It is then well accompanied with the “Leader Mothers” training program. Beneficiaries: Women, babies, children and families of refugees and disadvantaged people Why is this project important or urgent?: First, the humanitarian aid for refugees and Syrian people is very critical. We have to ensure the health of this population as one of the human rights requirements. Second, as this will be part of an existing project, we have a proven organizational capacity to implement this project successfully and to manage the sustainable results for refugees, as well.


Veysel’s Mission: To provide resource for sight-impaired individuals Project Objective: This project is about education for disadvantaged children’s development; Buying material for strategiv games like chess, and classroom equipment. Beneficiaries: It will benefit about 88 sight-impaired children. Why is this project important or urgent?: We want to increase


Otistikler Dernegi /

Kadın Kadına Mutfağı

Otistikler Dernegi Mission: The Autistic Association conducts societally- based psychological health projects, and provides therapy, educational and rehabilitation services for children, youth and adults with developmental and psychiatric disorders.

Kadin Kadina Mutfagi’s Mission: Project Objective: The Women to Women Refugee kitchen has been in operation since 2016, but moved to its physical space in December 2017. It is an industrial grade kitchen where Syrian and Turkish women simply began producing jams and pickles, but recently started a brand-new catering service, as of September 2017.

Project Objective: OYAKAMP – Integration camp. We aim for the child/ young and adult individual living with autism to go on vacation under supervision of autistic integration specialists, to experience ‘life camp’ without their parents. Any individual older than the age of 6, capable of self-care to a certain extent(ex: with toilet training), diagnosed with pervasive developmental disorder, mild mental retardation, Down syndrome and with psychotic behaviors can join the camp and professionals and students from the fields of psychology, education and art, eager to work with differently developed individuals can volunteer for the camp. Volunteers work under the supervision of an expert staff of therapists and educators. Volunteers under the supervision of the expert staff accompany the campers throughout the entire camp. 5-6 differently developed individuals are present throughout one camp period. Working team consists of 7-8 people. The team, consisted of 1 camp leader/ consultant, 1 leader assistant and volunteers, receives supervision by two different supervisors (1 supervisor for volunteered group and 1 supervisor for leader group). Main purpose of this team is to support the social integration and transition to the independent life of the autistics in a holiday environment. There are many activities within the camp program. Activities take place specifically within a framework where they meet with play therapy and art therapy. Goal of the work is to individualize autistic people regarding their own potential. Concrete steps are taken for integration to the society of autistic individuals who generally are bound to stay in relation solely to the family and within home. This way, it becomes possible for the society to experience how to exist with autistics without the stigmatization. Beneficiaries: The chosen group of autistic individuals attending the camps, their families, experts who are working in the field, students who trained to work in the field (such as psychology, psychological consulting, social services, nursing care, health care), artists from different disciplines, neighbors, and the community at large will benefit from the experience.


Beneficiaries: Syrian and Turkish women from Mahmutşevketpaşa, Okmeydanı neighborhood. Why is this project important or urgent? We have seen the wonders the kitchen has created in the neighborhood since its opening. Syrian and Turkish women have a safe, clean, beautiful space where they can cook together, earn (although minimal at this point) some money, and where their children can attend art, drama, academic support workshops. We have been trying to secure the next 12 months’ rent for the past four months, and have only raise 1,210TLs: the crisis is not on people’s agendas while the kitchen is still not making enough money to cover regular operational costs (rent, electricity, natural gas, cooking supplies etc).

If you would like to know more about each organization or get involved, you can contact or each of the individual organizations for more information.




NEW DEVELOPMENTS REGARDING SHORT TERM RESIDENCE PERMITS Lately, foreigners have been facing difficulties obtaining residence permits. Although the set of regulations regarding residence permits comprising the Law on Foreigners and International Protection and its secondary legislations have not been amended, the practice of the Immigration Office (“Office�) has changed. Now, the Office examines the applications more closely which results in some hesitation when reviewing applications. Although laws have not changed, more than before the Office now exercises its power of discretion in accepting or rejecting residence permit applications within the scope


of the legislation. Each application is interpreted individually and general provisions are applied by the Office according to its interpretation of the specific application. The necessary documents supporting the application differ according to the residence permit type and its purpose, however, there are some common requirements such as photo passport, social security insurance, etc. For the last few months, there have been some challenges in obtaining residence permits since the Office does not execute a broad interpretation and asks

for additional documents with close evaluation. Especially for short term residence permits, restrictions are more visible based on the higher number of applications which are ultimately rejected. Therefore, this article will address short term residence permit applications. Applications are made via the online system of the Office like before, but after the applicant submits their application through online system they will be informed as to their appointment day.

One of the most striking new practices of the Office is declining to renew short term residence permits for touristic purposes. The Office explains its reasoning as that the foreigners who had received their short-term residence permit for tourism should have satisfied their purpose of stay in Turkey. Additionally, even if it is not officially announced, it seems that a quota, particularly in Istanbul, has been determined for short-term residence permits based on tourism. Therefore, they do are not renewing short-term residence permits for tourism until this interpretation changes. In the meantime, foreigners may suffer because of the firsttime application requirements. The applicant has to state where she/he will stay in Turkey. If the foreigner indicates their place of residence is rented, the notarized lease contract has to be submitted. However, the Office lately is asking for the title deed, numbering document obtained from relevant municipality, and detailed title deed registry. These documents can be acquired by the landlord from the relevant Directorate of Land Registry and/or Municipality. Few landlords will readily volunteer their time to visit the Directorate of Land Registry and/or Municipality just to help their tenant, especially in lower income regions. In the past, a criminal record report was not typically one of the obligatory requirements for short- term residence permits unless the Office specifically requested. However, now it is an obligatory requirement and the foreigner has to provide a criminal record from their own country. It must be apostilled and notarized with Turkish translation. If the foreigner’s country is not a signatory country of the Apostille Convention (Convention La Haye du 5 October 1961) said document must be approved by the consulate and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs or Competent Turkish Authorities authorized theretofore. If the Turkish criminal record of the applicant who has been living in Turkey and applies for extension is requested by the Office, it can be obtained from Turkish judicial authorities. It is also possible to obtain it through an online system called e-devlet1, however, it is better to submit a criminal record obtained from the judicial authorities instead of e-devlet. A health report is also one of the new requirements and can be obtained from a general hospital. You can find a list of hospitals which give a health reports showing that you are disease free. I would like to underline that Turkey is very sensitive about public health in addition to public security and interest. This subject can be a reason for rejection of residence permits and citizenship applications. Proof of income sufficient to stay in Turkey for the duration of the permit is necessary for applications. The Office was able to approve applications which had sufficient income documents and was requesting additional documents if those submitted were found to be inadequate. With the new changes as a common practice, the Office is requiring bank account records that show regular payments to the account extending back six months. For first-time applications, providing six months of bank account records is not feasible in most cases since many foreigners do not have any relationship such as business, family etc. in Turkey before they come to Turkey. Due to the lack of a bank account 1) An online service which provides state services to citizens

prior to moving to Turkey, bank account records from abroad can be submitted. Although applications based on foreigner’s property, marriage in Turkey (family), and student status are the most common types being approved lately, it is expected that the Office will change its practice in order to reduce the number of rejections. It is important to be aware that the Office may or may not ask for additional documents. Some of the latest documents mentioned above may not be asked from the applicant since the Office’s evaluation can differ according to the applicant or officer or at the sole discretion of the Office. All this depends on sole discretion of the Office, and of course even if you provide all required documents, it does not guarantee that the Office will approve your application. However, it is significant to prioritize the documents that are in the list of requirements to apply for short-term residence permit considering the limited time available to submit them to the Office and to remember that if rejected, applicants applying for a new residence permit within six months will need to submit a new reason rather than the reason given in the previously rejected application. Melek Barngrover is a lawyer in Istanbul and veteran of the pharmaceutical industry. She can be reached at melekbarngrover@

groups and associations

Have a particular passion or want to learn one? There are different social clubs and associations to get involved with in Istanbul. It is a great way to expand your community, make new friends, and find support!


Friends of ARIT, was established to support the ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey) in Turkey; and runs a year-round programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. Contact: 0 (212) 257 81 11.


The photo club, a group of international members of varying skill levels (basic to semi-professional), and share the common desire to capture the world in a photograph and explore Istanbul while doing so. Contact Tammy Ni:


Union Church of Istanbul is an international, interdenominational church that offers services in English. Contact:


International Women’s Bible Study group meets Tuesdays from 10:00 until 12:30. Contact Vicki Günay: 0 (532) 314 1134.


Boy Scouts & Cub Scouts of America are youth programmes for character development and leadership training. All boys holding a foreign passport are welcome. Cub Scouts: boys ages 6-10. Boy Scouts: boy ages 11- 18. Contact Vicki Günay: 0 (532) 314 11 34 or


Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls build leadership skills through the development of strong values, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls ages five and up are welcome. Contact Kat Bekham: 0 (542) 300 24 92 or


Speech Bubbles Theatre, is a drama group composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers/musicians from the international community; which also runs a part-time school of performing arts for children and adults on Saturday mornings. Contact:


InterNations is where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. For information visit our website:


The English-speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club helps members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment. Contact: vpmembership@

PAWI (Profn’l American Women of Ist.) PAWI is a network of American and Canadian women living in Istanbul that strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Contact:


Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome. We practise Saturday 16:00-18:00, except on game days.



Rugby Club in Istanbul has coaching for children and teenagers. Turkish, English, French and Spanish are spoken. www.


An Expat Football Community of amateurs who enjoy playing and learning football. Ages, skills and experience welcome. Facebook: @ iTeamFootball


AWI is a social network open to American and Canadian citizens in Istanbul. Contact Monisha Kar or Sia Israfil;


The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gather every month for social (such as drinks, brunch, or dinner) and cultural activities. Contact:

CHICAS (Spanish Women of Istanbul)

CHICAS unite Latin Americans, Spaniards and others Spanish speakers to socialise and help from each other in a friendly environment. Contact: chicasestambul2016@gmail. com

CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana)



The Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a nonprofit social group for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul. Contact Kim Cakirkaya: kim.cakirkaya@ or 0 (533) 463 69 30

Istanbul Accueil provides the French speaking community in Istanbul information on events and activities. Contact: istaccueil@gmail. com or Website: www.


NVI (Dutch Community of Istanbul)


The Italian Association organises social activities, Italian/Turkish conversation classes, and much more. Visit our website for more information: www.

Die Brücke, a platform for the German-speaking community, organizes social activities and provides information on education and immigration.

DNSI (Dutch School of Istanbul)

DNSI provides Dutch language and cultural lessons to students (3-16 years old); and a one-week Dutch summer school. Visit our website for more information:

Dutch Club Istanbul keeps typical Dutch festivities alive and organizes activities for Dutch-speaking community. Contact Lisette Ruygrok:


Friends of India Association (FOIA) connects Indians in Istanbul through various social events. Contact foia.

Portuguese speaking group. Isabel Ponte Gulpan: 0 (532) 274 16 53


For information please contact:

SWEA (Swedish Women Edu.Assoc.)

SWEA, a world-wide network for Swedish-speaking women, organises events and activities; and welcomes everyone who speaks Swedish. Contact: istanbul@


For more information and a full listing of all Englishspeaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website: www. and www. Al-Anon meets Thursdays 6:30pm at the Dutch Chapel Union Han, 237-239 Istiklal Caddesi, near Tünel in Beyoğlu.


C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have volunteer opportunities that require various skill set on our platform,, and also organise events where NGOs present their projects and brainstorm with other professionals. For more information, contact





LITTLE SISTERS OF THE POOR Contact Mother Mary:. or 0 (212) 296 46 08

Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs; and additional resources for your child? Contact Carol Crous: 0 (533) 730 71 48

Fostering dialogue and connecting young leaders to projects that help disadvantaged and displaced communities. İ A volunteer network to help stray animals in Istanbul, and to promote animal welfare in Istanbul, Turkey and beyond.


The Book Club meets on the 3rd Tuesday. For details, contact Mary Akgüner:


Bridge group meets on Fridays at 10:30. All levels welcome! For details, contact Sandra: 0 (532) 483 5319.


For details, contact Gaye Hiçdönmez: or 0 (532) 700 0693


Mahjong group meets every Monday at 10:30 - 16:00. No previous experience required! For details, contact Gesa Horna – gesahorna@ 537 362 4912 Mimo – mimokhanoflynn@ 5362732489 MUMS ‘N KIDS MEETUPS IWI has weekly meetups and playgroups organized according to children’s early years ages. Please contact mumsnkids@iwi-tr. org for more information and resources.


This is an Asian-side meetup. Bikes can be rented, but bring your own rollerblades. It’s lots of fun. For details, contact Gabriele Sailer:


Running Group is a monthly membership. Thursdays 19:00 & Sundays 8:00, Caddebostan sahil. Contact Marina Khonina: marina. or 0 (534) 982 83 07


Tennis Group takes place at Istanbul Tennis Academy (ISTA) in Istinye. All levels are welcome! For details, contact IWI Sports Coordinator, Olga:


directory / classifieds MY TURKISH GARDEN

Do you… • think that learning language is boring? • want to learn while doing things you love? • know the grammar but need more practice? • have kids and nobody to look after them? If “Yes”, My Turkish Garden is the right place to start your language journey. Let us get to know you and prepare the plan that suits YOU.


* Private lessons for kids 4+ years and adults * One-to-one and group lessons for ages 3 and 3,5 to develop piano playing skills with songs, rhythm games and fun activities * Lessons in English or Turkish * Lessons either in teacher’s (Ulus/Ortakoy area) or student’s house * Piano recital at the end of school year * Preparation for London College of Music piano exams upon request Sandra / 05324220413


I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho rebalancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.

FRIENDS OR FAMILY VISITING? Want a weekend in old Sirkeci? Book Barbera Hotel! For hotel reservations through our direct website enter coupon code IWI2018 for a 20% discount.

MEF International Schools Istanbul Campus Ulus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus Beşiktaş, İstanbul, Türkiye T. +90 212 362 26 33 F. +90 212 257 82 25


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International Women of Istanbul

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To place an advertisement please contact us at Advertisements must be Lale Content confirmed through signed contract beforeIWI any Lale as an organisation act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not payment is accepted. accept any liability regarding the accuracy or Classified ads: Restricted to 50 words. content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles. In order to No cash payments accepted. A copy of the comply with these laws or publishing standards, payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: Lale reserves the right to reject or edit any Only paid advertisements submission to the magazine. Furthermore, Lale can be included in Lale. does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers or partners.


MEF International Schools Istanbul Campus Ulus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus Beşiktaş, İstanbul, Türkiye T. +90 212 362 26 33 F. +90 212 257 82 25


Lale September - October 2018  

Lale September - October 2018  


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