THE MAGAZINE OF THE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN OF ISTANBUL
Issue 06 July â€“ August 2018
CONTENTS 3 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR and MEET THE CHAIR
LALE FEATURES 8 TRAVEL Three Greek Islands, Splendors of Southwest Turkey 28 NEIGHBORHOOD Beach Bumming in Istanbul 34 GOURMET Planning the Perfect Picnic, Staying Hydrated 50 GARDENING Permaculture for More Sustainable Cities
LALE LIFE 5 CELEBRATE THE SEASON Ideas for summer 7 IN YOUR WORDS How do you celebrate summer? 16 HEALTH Staying Hydrated 26 MUMS ‘N KIDS Momcierge to the rescue!
32 DINING OUT Al Fresco dining around the city 38 CALENDAR July and August events and activities 40 SUSTAINABILITY My clean beach 42 SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Helping the homeless 44 BOOKISH Summer reads 46 BEAUTY The specialist’s solution to cellulite 47 AUDIOFILE Tune in to our summer playlist 48 STYLE Where to buy swim and beachwear 54 HOBBIES The rookie’s guide to buying a boat 56 LEGAL Tying the knot in Turkey
LALE DIRECTORY 59 COMMUNITY 60 CLUBS, GROUPS AND ASSOCIATIONS 62 DIRECTORY, CLASSIFIEDS, PARTNER OFFERS 64 IWI POLICIES
BOARD INFORMATION IWI Office Hours: First Wednesday of the month, 10:30am to 1:00pm. Answering service available every working day
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Adres/ Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 705 6215 www.iwi-tr.org
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Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027
Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli
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Basım Tarihi: 24.06.2018 Sayı: 94 Official Facebook page: facebook.com/istanbulwomen Instagram account @iwistanbul Cover photo: PixaBay
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LALE MAGAZINE is the bi-monthly publication of the International Women of Istanbul. Our aim is to connect international women living in and around Istanbul, to share information, and to help the city feel like home. We cover a range of topics from the arts, business networking, culture, food, health, travel, social responsibility, style, and more! To learn more, visit our web site, www.iwi-tr.org
AS I WAS THINKIN G A BO U T my plans for the next couple of
months, somehow I recalled that my brother and I would tease my mom about her compulsive list making. She would use any scrap of paper she could find, and we’d see her hunched over on her bed methodically writing and crossing off items. As I look around my place today, I have to reluctantly confess that I have inherited this habit. I will be cleaning up or looking for a notebook to take with me to a meeting, and I’ll happen upon a grocery list, or a rotation of meals I am going to make, or how to minimize my wardrobe, and then I’ll find five other iterations of it somewhere else. In fact, I just looked on my phone and I have 128 lists. Oh, the irony. I think my mom would have the last laugh on this subject. But since we are on the subject of lists, I am goal-oriented, so I’m making a bucket list for the next couple of months: Start my balcony garden urban oasis I look forward to having cilantro and tarragon readily available, but more importantly, growing at least some of my food is the right thing to do for the environment. Make popsicles It is such a simple treat, and something in which I can involve my kids. I can’t wait to experiment –especially with yogurt and berries Get out on the water Try stand-up paddleboarding. Rent a kayak. Apparently there are places to go in
KAREN ÇİFTÇİ S U C C E E D S O U TGO IN G C H A I R Anna Ilhan, who has led IWI most effectively for the last two years. A well-known presence in the international community in Istanbul, Karen transitions into the IWI chairwoman role having overseen the IWI Mums ’N Kids group this last year.
Karen arrived in Istanbul in 2005 after marrying her Turkish husband and credits IWI with helping her integrate into the city. “I joined IWI just so I could get connected to other like-minded expat women in Istanbul.” Like other new arrivals,“I needed to know how to orient myself in this fabulous city, to understand my rights, where I could go, and would I be safe? How could I make friends, and also learn a little bit about the procedures in Turkey? IWI was able to connect me.” Originally from the United Kingdom, Karen is an experienced international marketing director with extensive knowledge of not-for-profit membership-based organizations throughout the UK, Europe and the United States. “I bring marketing expertise and organization membership management skills to IWI, as well as an understanding of the compliance necessary to grow a great organization.” Among Karen’s favorite things to do in Istanbul in her spare time are walking, swimming and sailing, but mainly “meeting
Istanbul on the Marmara near Kalamış and Yeşilkoy, even the Princes Islands, where the waters are calmer and less congested than the Bosphorus. Go to Galata, buy a ukulele and play it. Ukuleles are portable and they seem less intimidating than playing a guitar because they have four strings, not six, and I can learn just three chords and play a ton of songs! Make at least one road trip in Turkey. There are plenty of places to travel that are within 2-3 hours of Istanbul. I still haven’t made it to Heybeliada, and if I manage to venture further, Sapanca is on my list... As you plan your summer, look inside the magazine for some inspiration. We have lots of suggestions to fill your days: where to picnic around Istanbul, beach bumming, planning a holiday, creating the right mood with music, and summer reading. Wishing you a great summer, and see you in September! MO N I S H A K AR
my women friends.” And something you may notice about Karen is her love of the color pink. “The secret behind my pink attire and pink accessories and is that I was a ballerina for 21 years. I’ve never danced professionally, but I pursued it all the way to the teacher’s level and have a Master’s Degree from Laban at Trinity College in London, which is a very famous dance conservatoire. Not a lot of people know this about me. I almost never talk about it because now I’m in business!” “It’s a great honor to step up as IWI’s new chairwoman and take the helm from Anna,” Karen says. “This next calendar year we have so many fun things planned for IWI, starting with an exciting opening event that’s going to be informative, and will unite women! I’m looking forward to connecting with you, either over the summer or in the upcoming calendar year, so that we can network further, share ideas, grow our friendships and have lots of fun in the upcoming year.” We look forward to the energy and ideas Karen brings to our community. Welcome, Karen!
celebrate the season
Feature ANNA WNUKOWSKA
SUMMER Throw a garden party Summer is the perfect time to throw a garden party. Create the Arabian-night vibe by using a combination of lanterns around your outdoor sofa. Use pillows, blankets and rugs to create a cosy corner. Hang fairy lights on trees, and above the table. Pick up a set of delicious mezes from your favourite place, serve your guests a glass of cold rosé or make your own signature summer drink. Enjoy the long, warm summer evenings. Get some vitamin ‘sea’ Living in Turkey has wonderful benefits and one of them is the sea. You can find many amazing places by the sea, whether it is a weekend getaway or a full vacation. Walking barefoot on the beach and breathing the sea air boosts both mental and physical health. Sitting on the sand, watching the waves crash, listening to the calming sounds of the sea – these are the ultimate stress relievers. Indulge in a beach read Summer is the best season to indulge into funny, endearing, page-turners. Beach reads are supposed to be easy, just like watching your favourite TV show. They are there for your pure pleasure, some may say they are “guilty pleasures.” This summer why not try a light- hearted piece by Jane Green? Get your balcony or terrace ready for summer Use your balcony or terrace to create your own urban oasis. For you book lovers, a cosy corner with a comfortable chair, soft blankets and a glass of prosecco will do the trick. To create a romantic ambience, throw colourful paisley print pillows on the sofa, light Moroccan lanterns. Add a small breakfast table to enjoy a morning cup of coffee. Watch the shooting stars Each August all space-lovers and romantic souls gaze up to the sky to witness nature’s magical spectacle - the peak of
the Perseid meteor shower. This year the Perseids will peak around August 12. This is probably the most popular show among all stargazers and this year it may be the best one to see. Bring blankets, your favourite warm drink, relax and wait...this is simply mesmerizing. Explore the unknown Wander, breathe in the unknown, explore. Uncover hidden gems of your city, fly to another country, try new flavours. This summer step out of your comfort zone and do something for the first time.
in your words
CELEBRATE I ALWAYS LOOK FORWARD to the first flowers of summer, the daffodils and tulips. When they finish the trees have this florescent green on the tips and the roses start blooming all over Istanbul. Topkapi palace has a rose garden whose smell I will never forget. Along with that, the first summer lunch outside at a Bosphorus fish restaurant is hard to beat! Jenna Hughes-Anlar Barbera Hotel, Istanbul General Manager
HOT SUMMER AFTERNOONS are a great excuse to have one Frappuccino per day despite the diet! I also love to spend all day in the sea playing with the waves to relieve stress while thinking about “sometimes you just have to go with the waves.” Shadi Kafaielotfi Managing Director of a Trading Company Shali Zarin Bahar
I’LL RENT A SUMMER HOUSE in Çesme and stay with my children, as I was professional and couldn’t have long holidays, this is our first long summer holiday. I am very excited to enjoy the sun and watching how they’ll grow up in 3 months. Ulduz Azad Azadis Corp. ShibueCouture Turkey Distributor
LAST SUMMER WE HOSTED “Family Fun Nights” every other Wednesday during the summer. The various locations were scattered throughout Istanbul. This engaged the whole family and helps us get to know our city, and each other better! Last year we visited the Zorlu Center playground, Büyük Çamlica, went bowling at Sapphire Mall, etc. We had so much fun that we plan to do the same this summer! Holly Brantley Nations Church Istanbul, Leadership Team
I CELEBRATE THE SUMMER IN my refreshing Nordic Latvia. After big city life in Istanbul with my three boys we “dive” into nature - camping in the forest, picking blueberries and collecting mushrooms, volunteering in my friends farms. Wild life and bare feets - this is my summer. Skaidrite Dzene Anne Nature owner
PICNICS, OUTDOOR ENTERTAINING. I love being outside sharing time with family and friends – whether at home or venturing out to an outdoor spot or a wlak in the woodlands, or by the sea, or at a school event. We were in Scotland before coming to Istanbul, so summer can be quite short and you have to grab those opportunities when they arise. Jane, Scotland
THE SUMMER HOUSE in Akçay. We swim, my son plays with his summer friends, we watch movies on the beach, long walks, playing tennis and painting rocks. Olga, Russia
SHARING A TABLE WITH my best friends and making new ones -that is my best summer, always Becky, United States
THIS YEAR, CELEBRATING SUMMER is celebrating my son’s graduation from middle school! Lina, Bulgaria
I HEAD TO THE SEA. I pick up a novel because I will read the sentence over and over and then in the summer I can finish so many books and it is like heaven. Karen, England
TRAVELING AND SWIMMING, anywhere I can find water! Cathy, Ukraine
SLEEP UNTIL WHENEVER YOU CAN…but I home school the kids in Bulgarian. Maria, Bulgaria
BÜYÜKADA – MY HUSBAND’S FAMILY has always gone there. My husband goes fishing, and he has a small boat. Last year we bought a house in Bodrum, and I’ll go there and open the season early! Nilgün, Turkey
WE ARE GOING to Bozcaada! Tammy, Taiwan
‘SALT IN THE AIR, sand on my hair!’ Christine, Greece
ISLANDS Feature and Photogtaphy CATIE FUNK
NY GIVEN D AY I A M A SKE D the curious question,
“Where are you from in America?”, followed by a list of major cities or states the quesioner knows: “New York, California, Florida, Washington DC…” My answer thoroughly disappoints people as I proudly say, “Iowa”– quickly adding, “It’s ‘near’ Chicago…” at which point I hear an excited confirmation before I can add, “...if you drive six hours by car.” Iowa is a big beautiful sea of…. flat farmland. We specialize in growing corn and soybeans, enough to feed the whole world it seems. The second largest production of our state is pigs. Thankfully I don’t have to talk about either of these topics.Once I say I am from a ‘ccift yeri,’ people are wholly uninterested. Turkey, a country surrounded by coasts and seas, provides completely new opportunities from my landlocked experience. Once living in a place surrounded by miles of crops, I now walk to the seaside in 10 minutes.
laid-back Greek Islanders and the relaxed warm Turkish people of Izmir have a comfortable relationship that politicians could learn a thing or two about. Alongside the history, travelers like to visit for the ease of island life. Big cities like Rome and London come with traffic and crowds of people. While we saw a few people from the ferry, tourist lines were never a problem. When travelling to the gorgeously sunny areas of the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas, the Greek Islands of Chios, Lesvos, and Rhodes, are the perfect international day trips from the Turkish coast. SAKIZ (Chios) Chios is the first choice for people in the Izmir area when considering which Greek island to visit first. A quick 20-minute ferry ride in the morning and the evening makes Chios the most popular choice from the beach town of Cesme.
When you look at a map, the islands just off the Aegean coastline look like they belong to Turkey. But they are actually Greek. Travelers in Turkey access the EU with quick ferry ride.
One day is enough time to spend in Chios. By making one big loop by car, you can see most of what South Chios has to offer. From the Chios city center, head west to the 11th century Nea Moni Monastery and explore the renovated church and the now overgrown former quarter of monks. The monastery closes at 1PM for the day, so make sure to visit it first.
Once belonging to the same ancient empires and rulers, these islands have a messy mix of overlapping Greek and Turkish history. Most Greeks and Turks in the southwest of Turkey have a jumbled heritage of Greek and Turkish ancestors. Today, the
From the Monastery, head another 20 minutes west to explore the deserted hilltop city of Avantas. There is not much there in terms of restaurants, but you are there to explore the clusters of homes destroyed by an earthquake in 1881.
Even better, there are Greek islands just off the coast.
PRECEDING PAGE Chios houses THIS PAGE Top Chios black pebble beach Bottom Chios olive trees OPPOSITE PAGE Agios Therapon Church mosaics
Chios’s name, Sakiz in Turkish or Mastic in Greek, hails from the local island tree that produces a sappy, natural gum. Naturally, you cannot go to Chios without making it to the Mastic Museum. The Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation (PIOP) created the Mastic Museum as part of 9 cultural heritage museums throughout Greece. The museum is beautiful with its tall glass walls mixed with natural wood and concrete. The story of traditional mastic cultivations and the economic value throughout history is creatively explained through multimedia applications, excellent video documentaries, models, and original machinery. For beach lovers, you should head straight for the Volcanic Rock Beach. The secluded little cove is famous for its black round lava stones that lines the shore. It’s perfect for enjoying the water and sun without the hassle of sand. Where to eat: For pork lovers, the 3 Little Pigs in Chios city makes your favorite Turkish ‘et döner’ but replaced with pork meat. At €2 a sandwich, the price is almost as good as the sandwich! For an afternoon coffee or cocktail, you must
check out No.44 where a crowd enjoys iced coffees. Make sure to ask for the complimentary chocolate covered donut that comes with your drink order. For ice-cream lovers, Kronos, is sure to please with it’s white, diner-like appeal and creamy, gelato flavors. Where to stay: Kafas is a small beach town 15-minutes south of Chios’ city center. Our room was right on the beach. If we wanted, we could have skipped the rental car and stayed in this self-sufficient little town which is complete with a market and a few restaurants and cafes. What to buy: Mastic products! Whatever you desire, you can most likely find a product made with mastic. The natural, mastic gum is a tourist’s favorite choice. The natural gum has an irregular shape because it is unprocessed! Lotions, soaps, food flavorings, and even liquors are all available as well. The Mastihashop is a good place to purchase quality mastic items. LESVOS (Mytilini) The third largest island in Greece, Lesvos, or Mytilini in Greek, is your best bet for a less touristy experience. Virtually unaffected by mass tourism, this lush, green island boasts fantastic food, beautiful beaches, rivers, pine and hardwood forests and over a million olive trees. For the do-it-all traveler who likes diversity, Lesvos is the perfect destination. From Ayvalik, take the 1 hour and 15-minute ferry ride to the port city of Mytilini. Similar to Chios, visitors can find enough to do for the day. The castle of Mytilene, one of the biggest in the Mediterranean, is located on the top of a hill in the northern part of the town. Walk around the castle and visit its cistern, the Ottoman baths, the Crypts, and the Queen’s Tower among others. Stop to appreciate the magnificent view of Mytilini town from the castle.
From the castle, head towards Ermou, the main shopping street, lined with lovely buildings, shops selling souvenirs and traditional products of the island. Starting from the 19thcentury Turkish Yeni Tzami Mosque, walk along Ermou Street towards the Agios Therapon Church. Take your time window shopping along Ermou street. If you have time, stop at the Archeological Museum for a lesson on the island’s history. The incredible Chios Mastic Museum pressed us to see other PIOP museums such as the Olive Oil Museum on Lesvos. After renting your car near the harbor, an hour drive west from the port city of Mytilini will take you to the Olive Oil Museum situated in the middle of the island. While it does explain olive oil production, this museum is more about the exemplary restored communal olive press of Aghia Paraskevi, which you can see in action daily at noon except on Tuesdays. The exhibits share the community efforts to build the oil press and the effect it had on the region’s social fabric and economic structures. Where to eat: Fifteen minutes from the Olive Oil Museum, the bay city of Skala Kallonis won’t make it on anyone’s tourist list, but stopping here is our favorite memory. Sitting at the shaded beachfront restaurant of Dionysos Fish and Meat Restaurant, we took our time eating our weight in Greek salad, fried cheese and grilled meat while our friend’s kid played on the beach. Where to stay: Our group of six (four adults and two kids) opted for an apartment style rental in Mylos via booking.com. Apartment style rentals are prevalent in this area for more extended vacation stays by the beach. What to buy: Olive oil products. The island not only offers olive oil, but also olive oil products such as natural soaps, lotions, bowls and other items made from olive oil wood, and souvenirs with hand-painted olive branches.
ABOVE Mytilini port, Lesvos OPPOSITE Top, Dionysos Fish and Meat Restaurant, Skala Kallonis, Lesvos Bottom left and right, Handmade olive oil products
RODOS Just slightly smaller than Lesvos, Rodos is a hub for cruise ships pouring 1,000s of travellers into the city for short landside excursions. Fortunately for us, our travels did not overlap with the hordes of cruises. The one-hour fast ferry takes passengers from the Marmaris port to the entrance of the Old Town. Rodos is split into ‘new town’ and ‘old town.’ If you have two days, spend one day exploring each. Old Town is surrounded by an impressive, well-maintained pair of medieval walls which easily could take hours to see all the towers and former moats. Inside the walls, each street and turn compelled us further into the maze of streets taking time to meander through the Greek, Turkish, and Jewish neighborhoods. Along the way, we stopped for lunch and shopping. Your tour must include time at the 14th century Grand Master’s Palace, the most prominent historical and architectural landmark and once the residence of the Grand Master of the Order of the Knights Hospitaller. The Palace holds two permanent archaeological exhibitions: “Ancient Rhodes - 2400 years” celebrating 2400 years since the founding of the city of Rhodes (408/7 BC) and “Rhodes from the Early Christian period to the Turkish conquest (1522)” covers the city from the 4th century AD until the beginning of the Ottoman period.
For €10, a three-day ticket includes entrances into the Grand Masters’ Palace, Archaeological Museum, the church of Our Lady of the Castle and the Decorative Arts Collection. New Town is north of Old Town. The Colossus of Rhodes, a statue of the Greek titan-god of the sun Helios, once straddled the harbour which boats had to enter through. Now, unimpressive columns are set in place of the feet as a remembrance and are considered an island ‘must’ see. From the Old town’s East wall, you walk the jetty with the three, wellpreserved windmills toward the Fort of St. Nicolas. The jetty makes a turn to close in the harbour, and at the end is the ancient Colossus. Now you can take the best picture of the two Colossus with Rodos in the background. Lastly, even if you don’t get in the water, spend an hour resting your feet from the walking an enjoy another view of the Mediterranean Sea at the beaches before heading back to Turkey. Where to eat: In New Town, the long-standing Koykos Restaurant served traditional Rhodian recipes. “Koulouria” with fresh local pasta, crumbly cheese and spices is beloved by both locals and tourists. In Old Town, the Odyssey Restaurant offers up delicious traditional Greek dishes at a reasonable price for the touristy part of town. I suggest the mixed meze plate for two and a mug of the local Alpha beer.
Where to stay: For budget travellers, we recommend the Lydia Hotel in New Town (50 Euros per night) or the Medieval Rose Inn guesthouse in Old Town (€20 per night). If you like a little luxury, Rhodes Park, and Suites Hotel near Old Town (€180 per night). This island is so small that it would be easy to stay in the central city and take day trips to other areas of the island.
Booking your ferry tickets online is easy. Marmarisferry.com offers a diverse selection of routes and online payment. Chios and Lesvos have flat one-way fees of €20-25 (€40-50 round trip), but daily ferries to Rhodes charge €30 extra per roundtrip (€40 ) if you arrive and depart on different days.
What to buy: When your sandals break in Greece, buy another pair! I heard Chios was the place for leather shopping, but Rodos has way more options. Real soft leather sandals in the latest fashion cost around €35 to €45.
Rental cars are easy and cheap to rent on Rodos. Even if you have a car, renting one for a day or two will be cheaper than paying the car ferry fee and the required insurance on the island. Only if you plan to stay for longer than four days should you consider taking your vehicle.
A day trip will give you just a taste of the island, but if you are like us, it’s not enough. Perhaps you need a weekend or even a week! Each island is like its own pastry, similar in taste but different enough that travellers will want to try each one. One island, or three, will not be enough.
Greeks observe an afternoon siesta from 1-3 PM. Most shops besides restaurants and cafes will take a break at mid-day for lunch and rest. At 3 PM the shops reopen for shoppers until 6 PM or, if in a shopping district, 8-9 PM. Also, most non-food shops close on Sundays.
OTHER TIPS FOR TRAVELING TO GREECE Check your visa requirements. Rules still apply for entering the EU. Some islands have daily visa pass, but make sure your nationality can purchase them.
If you are looking to grab some European products to take back to Turkey, Lidl and other supermarkets have a large, affordable selection of goods. However, they close on Sundays.
Travelling to the islands is best from May to September. The islands come to life with other travelers, and all the shops are ready to greet you. If you want a more relaxed, getaway, consider going in the off-months, October to April.
While the refugee crisis has potentially affected some of the Greek Islands, we never saw any disruptive events or services during our visits. Besides the occasional beggar near the port areas, which is common in most cities, we saw none in the other regions of Greece.
OPPOSITE Top, Windmills on Rodos Bottom left, Old Harbor, Rodos Bottom right, Souvenir shopping, Rodos
THIS PAGE Fort of St. Nicholas, Rodos
UR BO D IE S A RE A BO U T 60% water, so it’s
no wonder we need to stay hydrated to maximize physical and mental performance and maintain functions that include regulating body temperature, eliminating wastes and lubricating joints. The U.S.-based National Academies of Sciences, Engineering and Medicine has determined that the adequate daily fluid intake is about 15.5 cups (3.7 liters) of fluids for men and about 11.5 cups (2.7 liters) of fluids a day for women. These figures include fluid intake from food (accounting for about 20%) as well as beverages. However, some people may need more or less water, and consumption for the average adult will vary based on weight, lifestyle and activity levels. While fluid intake comes in many forms, we all hear that we should consume more water as it is a no-calorie beverage. Rising temperatures mean to double down on hydration, but let’s face it, glass after glass of water can be boring. Why not take advantage of local and seasonal produce and try some infused waters for a change of pace? The possible combinations are only limited by your imagination, and here are a few to get you started. TIP S You can use any container to infuse your water; but a glass jar with an infusing lid to hold your fruits / herbs / vegetables helps with storage, pouring and clean-up. Another option is a simple glass pitcher or mason jar. Use filtered water and high-quality produce, organic if possible. Wash produce well and peel the skins / rinds where feasible. While you can use frozen fruits, they won’t release as much flavor as if you were to use fresh fruits. For most of these recipes, it helps to have the flavors infuse for at least 4 hours or overnight, but you can adjust the timing and measurements based on your personal preferences. As for storage and shelf-life, after 4 hours, you should discard any fruits / herbs / vegetables from your water, especially citrus
Feature MO N I S H A K AR
(the rinds will impart a bitter taste). After discarding the fruits / herbs / vegetables, you can store the infused water it in the refrigerator for about 3 days, but use your sight and smell to assess freshness. RECIPES All start with 1 liter of water. Cucumber Mint, Melon Combine one thinly sliced cucumber (peeled if not organic), 10 muddled mint leaves, a half cup of honeydew, cantaloupe, watermelon – or a combination of all three! Steep overnight. Strawberry, Lemon, Basil Use ½ cup sliced, stemmed fresh strawberries; 5 muddled basil leaves, and one lemon thinly sliced. Add water and steep four hours. Blackberry, Orange, Ginger Combine ½ pint blackberries, one orange thinly sliced, one 2-inch piece of ginger. Add water. Steep overnight. Pomegranate Mint Add ¼ cup pomegranate pips (or more if you like) with a handful muddled mint leaves. Steep two hours in the refrigerator. Watermelon Basil Combine 2 cups of chopped watermelon and 15 muddled basil leaves. Add water and infuse at least 4 hours. Grape Orange Add one thinly-sliced orange with the rind on, and 2 cups of halved grapes and fill with water. Refrigerate overnight. Apple Cinnamon Combine ¼ thinly-sliced red apple; 2-inch cinnamon stick. Steep the cinnamon in the water overnight. Add the apple in the morning and steep at least 30 minutes. Grapefruit Rosemary Use half-circle slices or thin wedges of grapefruit and one rosemary sprig. Steep rosemary overnight, then add grapefruit in the morning. Steep at least 10-15 minutes before consuming.
Ä°stanbul / Toronto Come explore with us!
Feature and Photography MIMO KHAN O’FLYNN
AS T FALL O U R F RIE N D S Megan and John (visiting
from the United States) and Seamus and me, along with Cenghiz from Barefoot Travel Plus, embarked on a fantastic and amazing historical, cultural and culinary tour of southwest Turkey. Our tour started in Bodrum, where we landed early Saturday morning and were met by our guide/driver, Cenghiz. As we continued to find out during the tour, he was an amazing and very well-versed guide in the history, cultural and culinary aspects of the area. Cenghiz had organized a roomy and very comfortable Mercedes Vito for our touring pleasure, kitted out with water, snacks, wipes, and such incidentals. E P HES US
We drove straight to Ephesus (A UNESCO World Heritage Site), originally an 11th century port city built by the Ionian Greeks and then expanded by the Romans and inhabited by the Lydians and Persians. Ephesus’ Artemis Temple is considered, to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It was a prosperous harbour city that saw great wealth and trade and was ruled by different important empires over the ages. It also boasted a population of a quarter of a million people in it’s heyday. We were dropped off at the Upper Entrance and were collected at the Lower Entrance making it an easy three-hour tour, going slightly downhill. The streets still had the marble they had been made of, with the chariot groove marks well indented, leading to the temples and the Terrace Houses. It costs extra to go into the Terrace Houses which was well worth it and highly recommended. You could really imagine how life was lived in these homes. We then went on to the Celsus Library, the Odeon, the Temple of Hadrian, the Grand Theatre, the Agora, St. John’s Basilica, and the Church of St. Mary. St. John had come to Ephesus to spread Christianity along with the Virgin Mary and as legend has it, they both died in Ephesus. After an extremely enlightening tour of Ephesus, we headed to nearby Selcuk for a late lunch and came upon a vibrant farmer’s market near the train station. We had a very local kebab Lunch with tea and headed off to Pamukkale/
Hierapolis which was an easy three-hour drive. All the roads in southwest Turkey are superb and it made our travel very easy and comfortable. We arrived at the Hal Tur Hotel in Pamukkale in the evening. The hotel is situated directly opposite, the lower entrance to the Travertine Terraces just meters away. We were given rooms on the third floor, with beautiful views of the Travertine Terraces, even in the evening light the view was magical. We had a local dinner in the dining room of the hotel and called it a night, as we had to be up early to explore PamukkaleHierapolis. PAMU K K AL E- H I ER AP O L I S
The next morning, we had a typical Turkish breakfast in the Hal Tur Hotel dining room and then headed off to explore the sites. Pamukkale-Hierapolis are also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Cenghiz dropped us off at the top of Hierapolis, a well-preserved Greek-Roman-Byzantine City. The city was built as a Spa city to enjoy the mineral rich, Terraced Travantines with warm mineral rich water cascading down its pools. Pamukkale forms an important backdrop to Hierapolis and the cultural landscape which dominates the area. We walked around Hierapolis founded in the 2nd century BC, with its remains of the Greco-Roman period with includes baths, temple ruins, a monumental arch, a nymphaeum, a necropolis, a theatre, and churches as it became an important Christian centre for the Eastern Roman Empire around 300 AD. We then stopped at the top of the Travantines and had a well needed and refreshing, frozen watermelon juice. The temperatures, even in October, were warm in the mid to high 20’s Celsius. We walked down through the Terraced basins and soaked our feet in the mineral rich water, stopping and admiring the view and ‘Oohing and Ahhing’ all the way down. Pamukkale, in Turkish means Cotton Castle and I can see why it is named such. It was really, amazing to be walking down the Travertine Terraces. It seemed ‘other worldly’. Not an experience to be missed. We arrived back at the hotel by mid-day and got ready to hit the road again, heading to Antalya.
We stopped for lunch, at what I would describe, as a roadside restaurant which caters to bus and truck drivers. It was large and like all other eatery’s in Turkey, very clean. The waiter recommended a lamb platter for all five of us to share, it came with a Shepard’s salad and bread. It was very luscious and was falling of the bone, as it had been slowly cooking for hours. The drive from Pammukale to Antalya is a good three to three-and-a-half hours. We arrived in Antalya in the early evening and checked into the Prime Hotel which is a boutique hotel, located just outside of the Old Town of Antalya. Our first evening we went into Old Town Antalya, known as Kaleici. It is quaint, with cobblestone streets and is mostly pedestrianfriendly surrounded by Old Roman Walls and with Ottoman Era homes, old mosques with tall minarets, a lovely park with some modern sculptures overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. One of the main entrances into Kaleici is through Hadrian’s Gate. We had a few drinks, looked around the shops and had dinner overlooking the very picturesque, old Roman Harbour. A N TALYA
The next day, we took it easy and visited Sand Land. Sand Land is near Lara Beach and is an impressive display of Huge Sand Sculptures made by artists from around the world. It was a bit kitsch and a very touristy thing to do. There are about 30 massive sand sculptures in all from Atatürk, to the Eifel Tower, Petra, Cyclops, and such. After that we went to the Duden Falls Park and looked onto the Duden Falls. We saw lots of boats visiting the Falls with people swimming off the boats. We then went to the beach and relaxed and enjoyed the Blue, Blue Mediterranean Sea, then back to the hotel and back to the Old Town of Kaleici, for dinner with some friends from Istanbul, who have retired to Antalya. T E RMESS OS
The next day, we went to the ancient city of Termessos, a 40-minute drive west from Antalya, deep in the Taurus
Mountains. Alexander the Great in 333 BC described it as ‘The Eagle’s Nest’ as it is set 1000 foot above sea level on a hilltop within a National Park, with spectacular views all around. It was one of only two places that Alexander the Great was unable to conquer. The terrain is rough, and you need at least three hours to have a good look around, with good sturdy shoes, hats, sunscreen, and water. We were also glad, that we had thought of bringing our walking sticks. The city was well fortified and protected by lower and upper walls, there is a theatre, an agora, cisterns, gymnasium, baths, and tombs. It is an impressive, remote, and a breathtakingly, beautiful site. The weather was perfect, beautiful, and sunny. After Termessos we went to the beach and relaxed and had a swim. Antalya is a beautiful city with pristine beaches right in town. We went to three different beaches while we were there, and they were all lovely, clean and had all the amenities. In the evening we explored around the old town some more. P ER G E, AS P EN D O S
Wednesday, we got up early and drove to Perge and then on to Aspendos, which is another 40-minute drive or so east of Antalya. It is believed that Perge was founded after the Trojan War by Greek settlers. It sat between two rivers. Alexander the Great was welcomed there in 333 BC mainly because their defences were weak. In 43 AD Perge was formally incorporated into the Roman Empire and was a very prosperous city. In the 7th century most of its inhabitants moved away because of persistent attacks by the Arabs. It was later inhabited by the Selcuks and then the Ottomans. Perge was divided by 2 main streets with gates on either sides and impressive columns that run down the 2 main streets. There are ruins of a theatre, an agora, a gymnasium, baths, and a necropolis. As in most of the sites we visited, some archaeological works are ongoing there. Aspendos is on the UNESCO world heritage site tentative list. We got there and went up the hill to get a view of the Aspendos
theatre from the top and the aqueducts below on the other side. The Aspendos theatre was initially built around 160 AD. The theatre is among the biggest and the best preserved and most intact monument of its kind from the Ancient World, with a façade of approximately 100 meters wide and 22 meters high. It is awe inspiring and is still used for theatre productions to date. It is semi-circular and multi-storied and holds up to 15000 people. The Selcuks were instrumental in preserving the theatre, as they carried out a restoration in the 13th century. Aspendos is also known for its Aqueducts which brought water to the city from the mountains 15 km to the north. It was because of this water, that allowed Aspendos and the surrounding area to be fertile and productive agriculturally. The Aspendos site also had access to the sea via a river, adding to its prosperity. I would strongly suggest that you hike above the theatre to get a bird’s eye view of it and then descend and have a good look in and around the theatre. By the end of our tour of Aspendos we were all thirsty and hungry. I went to buy fresh pomegranate juice for everyone, but did not buy any, as it was stupendously expensive. When I mentioned this to Cenghiz, he said he had the perfect spot for lunch for us. We went literally around the corner to a Mom and Pop Gozleme al fresco restaurant. We all had a variety of Gozleme, ayran, water and tea for the price of the 5 pomegranate juices, I almost bought. After our late and very filling lunch, we headed back to Antalya and spent a couple of hours on the beach before heading back to the hotel and then to the Old Town for some dinner and some souvenir shopping for Megan and John. KAŞ VIA PHAS ELIS, D E M RE A N D KE KO VA
We left Antalya the next morning to continue our trip along the Mediterranean Sea. Our destination was Kaş via Phaselis, Demre and Kekova. I must admit that by this time we were joking a lot about ‘our ruined holiday.’ There was so much to see and so much history about so many civilizations. By this time, everywhere we went, we looked for Hadrian’s gate, the
agora, the theatre, and the main street. The drive from Antalya to Phaselis is about an hour. Phaselis is on a small peninsula on the Mediterranean Sea. It was an important trading city as it had three natural harbours. It was founded in the 7th century B.C. by colonizers from Rhodes and was instrumental in transferring timber from the Taurus Mountains to the Ships waiting at Sea. The Phaselians were subjected to many different rulers. They were more concerned with trading than politics and prospered no matter who ruled them. Legend has it, that when Alexander the Great came in 333 B.C. they met him outside the city and presented him with a Golden Crown. The city remained prosperous for hundreds of years and of course, Hadrian came and built a gate. There was also a main square, three agoras, a theatre, temples, baths, cisterns and of course a main street. We then, went on to Demre about two hours from Phaselis. We could not come to southwest Turkey and miss seeing where Santa Claus is buried! We went straight to St. Nicholas’s church, where we saw many Russian pilgrims as St. Nicholas is the patron saint of Russia. They come to pray and pay homage to the Saint. He was laid to rest in 343 AD in Demre. Apparently in 1087 Italian merchants took his bones to Bari in Italy. The Church has been restored a few times in 1043 and then again in 1862. It is an old Byzantine Church and is adorned with beautiful frescos and mosaics. Some of the mosaics were in marble. St. Nicholas was known to be kind to children and was known to give them gifts. December 6th is St. Nicholas’s Saint day. We had a quick lunch in Demre and then headed to Kekova an hour’s drive away. We came to a small seaside town with a harbour and boats that take people to the Sunken City. We rented a boat for two hours to tour the sunken sea-trading city of Kekova which
was a vibrant city in the Lycian and Byzantine times until it was destroyed by an earthquake and submerged under water. You can see the city ruins clearly under the water. There is a sunken harbour, homes, stairs, tombs, and arches. It is on the tentative list as a UNESCO world heritage site. We also got to swim in the Sunken City waters. It was warm and lovely to be swimming there. Apparently, diving is off limits. The boat was nice and clean and had a cabin where we could change into our swim suits. The captain also offered us tea and biscuits. Once we got back to the little harbour we went onto Kaş, which was a scenic one-hour drive. We got to Kaş as the sun was setting directly onto the sea. The view from our hotel was spectacular and we went and had some drinks on the multi storied hotel platforms. One platform was a restaurant, one a bar and two were decks for lounging and swimming. Kaş is a pretty little town situated around an old harbour. It is known for its diving. It is built upon the ancient Greek city of Antiphellos. Most of the ancient city is gone but you can still see some remnants of it. There is a well-preserved amphitheatre and some Lycian burial chambers. Friday is Market day in Kaş and we walked around it and onto a well sheltered private Marina. We enjoyed the Seafood Restaurants in Kaş in the evenings and the breath-taking sunsets over the Sea. X AN T H O S AN D PATAR A
On Saturday we drove over an hour to Xanthos, a UNESCO world heritage site. It was the capital of the Lycians dating back to 3000 BC. and is built on a hilltop with beautiful views. There are stone inscriptions of the Lycian language. There is some blending of the Lycian and Hellenistic arts. In the Hellenistic period a theatre was built and renovated by the Romans. Xanthos is not far from Patara Beach and the Patara ruins. We opted to only go to the beach (a 20-minute drive) as it was yet
again a beautiful day and we were ruined out. Patara beach was by far the loveliest, longest (11 miles) ad unspoilt beach that we saw. This is thanks to the ruins of the Ancient city of Patara and a protected species of loggerhead turtles that have been laying their eggs here for the past 40 million years. We relaxed on the beach and for very little money were provided with umbrellas and deck chairs. There is a restaurant and changing rooms. We had a late lunch in the little village, where a local older woman made us manti with salad and homemade ayran. She had a small garden where Cenghiz picked the salad ingredients and made the salad for us. It was all low-key. He could have been her grandson bringing his friends over for lunch. We bought beautiful cured olives and olive oil from her, then returned to KaĹ&#x; for the last beautiful sunset and the last supper of wonderful mezes and fresh fish. The next day we drove to Bodrum and back to Istanbul. We had a wonderful tour of southwestern Turkey in a big part thanks to Cenghiz and Barefoot Travel Plus, four friends left on the tour and five friends returned to Istanbul. We have and will, be using Barefoot Travel Plus for all our touring needs, be it Istanbul or any part of Turkey. It would not have been the same without Cenghiz and his team. It was a very busy nine-day tour and we packed in a lot of sites and beach time with delicious meals along the way. I left with the feeling that we had seen so much, but it was still a drop in the bucket, to how much more there is to see, in this beautiful country of our historical past, that makes up our world history. As my father used to say, â€˜In order to understand the present and the future, you have to look at the past.â€™ Words of wisdom to live by.
Statue heading to Lara Beach, Antalya PAGE 20
Roman theatre, Termessos PAGE 21
Top left Sand sculpture, Antalya Top right Roman theatre, Aspendos Bottom Ruins, Termessos PAGE 22
Left Medusa sand sculpture, Antalya Right Cyclops sand sculpture, Antalya PAGE 23
Top Lion Mosaic, Efesus Bottom St. Nicholas Church, Demre PAGE 24
Top Houses, Old Town Antalya Bottom Local art, Old Town Antalya
mums ‘n kids
Feature MONISHA KAR Sevil Delin portrait JULIA FORSMAN
Momcierge logo LARA LOCKWOOD
S A P A R E N T, S O M E T I M E S you just need
books, playing games, singing songs, helping with homework. If you’re interested in this service, you can arrange a time for a play pal to come to your home at your convenience.
Launched in Istanbul in December 2013, Hotel Momcierge provides babysitting, rental kids’ equipment, and other services such as airport transfers with car seats, family tour guides, photographers and portable WiFi hotspots to any location in Istanbul.
A self-avowed Cihangir girl, Sevil enjoys raising kids in the madness and chaos. “If they live in Istanbul, they can live anywhere!”, she said of raising her kids in the city. And, they make it work – “You don’t have to retreat to the suburbs – we walk everywhere, take the metro, and avoid cars where possible.” They go to the countryside on the weekends.
a break. No built-in babysitter in the form of extended family? Enter Hotel Momcierge.
Hotel Momcierge was established by Sevil Delin, a half-Turkish, half-American travel writer and — most importantly —mother of two young sons. The daughter and granddaughter of hoteliers, Sevil grew up in Hilton, Sheraton and Mandarin Oriental hotels in Turkey, Egypt, and Hong Kong. After studying at Oxford University, she became a travel writer based in Istanbul. She is the author of the Louis Vuitton City Guide to Istanbul, and also writes about the city for Condé Nast Traveller, Monocle, The Guardian and Wallpaper. Her memoir essay about visiting Turkey as a child was published by Granta. Sevil’s experience as a mother travelling with a child inspired her to create the world’s first comprehensive ‘family travel concierge’. As a globetrotter who has travelled to 40 countries, she didn’t want to stop doing the things she enjoyed just because she had kids – travel being one of those activities. She wanted to make things easier for people who also wanted to travel with their young children, and her services help families whether it means getting a crib or car seat or high chair for a hotel stay, or to arrange safe airport transfers within the city. While many of her services cater to tourists staying in Istanbul, locals can also find qualified babysitters on a part-time, temporary basis. Say you are going to a wedding with kids and need another set of hands, are attending a work event during the day, or just need a night out, you can hire a babysitter that suits your needs. All babysitters are carefully vetted using a rigorous interview process. They must have minimum two years’ experience, and at least two verbal and written references. All babysitters speak fluent English and practical Turkish, and they all know basic first aid. More recently, Sevil has gotten requests from Turkish families for native English-speaking play pals to help children practice their English via age-appropriate activities such as reading
For someone who spends her time making sure people’s vacations go smoothly, where does Sevil spend her time off? For favorite destinations, Bodrum ranks high on the list. “I’ve been going to Bodrum for the last 20 years, and it never gets dull. Every day you can go to a different beach, a different cove. If going with kids, I stay at Hapimag Sea Garden Hotel there is lots of kitsch, but it is heaven on earth. It is all inclusive, and they have a Kids Club and activities for kids so you can actually relax”. If you can’t manage to escape, Sevil suggests a weekend hotel staycation with the family where you get to explore and experience another part of the city. If you want to splurge, she recommends Raffles Hotel in Zorlu which has an amazing space and great treats for the kids. The Swissotel is a nice midrange option in Beşiktaş. For something more economical yet trendy, the House Hotel in Bomonti is new with entertainment options ranging from an indoor pool on site to the Feriköy Organic Pazar on Saturday and the Feriköy Flea Market on Sunday. A quick walk to Bomontiada brings you to a large complex full of restaurants, a brewery, art gallery, and concert hall. Bomontiada often hosts kids’ activities and is a great summer hangout. Around the corner are Glories Chocolate shop and a Ministry of Coffee for a pick-me-up. On Sevil’s website you can find her tips on things to do with kids in Istanbul based on her own experience – be it museums, parks, playgrounds, books or other activities. For more information, or if you are interested in working with her as a babysitter or PlayPal, you can contact her at firstname.lastname@example.org. Website: hotelmomcierge.com Instagram: hotelmomcierge Facebook: @hotelmomcierge Phone: 0532 223 4349
Feature ELAA JEMMAZI
S S O MEO N E WH O H AS G R O WN U P in Bizerta,
a coastal city of Tunisia, it’s only natural to think of sandy beaches and clear waters when I hear the word ‘summer.’ This will be my first summer in Istanbul, so I’ve made it my mission to look for nice seaside retreats to sunbathe, swim, have fun and relax. As a newcomer to the city, I was worried because of all the criticism I heard about the “dirty” Istanbul sea but, fortunately, it turned out that there are a variety of beautiful beaches and beach clubs you can visit depending on your interests and what you like to do by the sea. Istanbul has around 20 beaches. Here are the ones that appealed to me the most – and I’m sure they’ll catch your attention as well.
BURÇ BEACH A property of Bogaziçi University, Burç beach is located along the Black Sea. With a beautiful shore that’s covered with lovely white sand, decorated with beach umbrellas and which extends over 2 Km, it offers a wide variety of activities. You can enjoy the sun on cushions or sun loungers or you can listen to good music and watch DJ performances on weekend afternoons. Active individuals will be able to try canoeing, kayaking and volleyball. In addition, this beach is the ideal destination for windsurfing and kite surfing. There’s also a bar and a restaurant for when you get hungry from all the fun you’re having. Admission: week days 30 TL, weekends 50 TL Tel: (0212) 359 58 00 email: email@example.com Getting there: shuttles are organised from the city centre
SUMA BEACH CLUB This beach just compels everyone to leave the city and head to the Kilyos countryside without being lazy. It’s a private beach club with a surface of 23,000m2, free WI-FI, a bar, quads… A casual atmosphere and a refreshing environment await you. During the day, you’ll be able to enjoy nonstop music, sports, art studios and camping. In the late afternoon the club organises volleyball tournaments and beach soccer. For thrill seekers, there are sessions of ultra-light aviation. Also, on some nights the club hosts outdoor concerts on the beach. Admission: week days 40 TL, weekends 60 TL Tel: (0533) 130 53 73 For details about events and the shuttle they organize, check their Facebook page: “Suma Beach”
UZUNYA BEACH Another favourite is the charming Uzunya Beach. Located in a small cove, Uzunya used to be known for its popularity among fishermen. However, since it was renovated in the last few years it became a great attraction for families. You can lie on either grass or sand and enjoy the quiet atmosphere. Actually, Uzunuya is the most natural and undisrupted beach in Istanbul. You can also enjoy a nice meal in its restaurant that’s well known for its good fish and mezzes. Admission: week days 30TL, weekends 50TL Tel (0212) 204 07 33
BÜYÜKADA Büyükada is the biggest of the Princes’ Islands. Though other islands like Heybeliada and Burgazada offer beautiful beaches for swimming, Büyükada is the one with most options, which makes it a popular swimming destination. The island has four beaches in total. The most popular ones are Yorukali and Nabikey. Büyükada is least crowded in the mornings on weekdays and has many restaurants and shops situated around its pier. You can also visit the Yada Beach Club. It’s the perfect place to experience the peace of the sea while satisfying your palate with its wide variety of dining options (Sushi, Meze de Bistro, Mest restaurant and Sunset Bar) Admissions: week days: 40TL weekend: 60TL website: yadagastronomi.com/beachclub/ Yada Beach Club
Note: prices are subject to modification, please contact the venue for the latest updates
Feature ANNA ILHAN
WH AT BETTER WAY to enjoy summer than dining al fresco? These spots won’t disappoint!
ADAME F E RO N IA M E YH A N E SI
P R O S This is an off the beaten track, family-run meyhane with
a great atmosphere. Çiğdem is the happy cook that prepares everything fresh and extremely tasty. Bülent is a gracious host who ensures you are well taken care of. Come hungry and leave happy!
C O N S Honestly, we haven’t found any yet. T H I N G S T O K N O W Make a reservation! Seating is limited
and this is a popular place with the locals.
Teşvikiye Mahallesi Hacı Emin Efendi Sk. 44/A, Şişli /Istanbul 0 (212) 240 10 60
P R O S The perfect restaurant for a romantic evening out with
a great Bosphorus and Marmara Sea rooftop view. The Cordon Bleu-trained chef and veteran of Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, Aylin Yazicioğlu, has a wonderfully creative and delicious modern menu. Nicole also offer a great wine pairing option showcasing Turkish boutique vineyards.
C O N S The menu is fixed but that is part of the fun. The price
reflects a high-end dining experience.
T H I N G S T O K N O W Two fixed menu options are available offering great modern gourmet fare. Make a reservation – this is a fine dining restaurant. Tomtom Mahallesi Tomtom Kaptan Sk. No:18 Beyoğlu /Istanbul 0 (212) 292 44 67
Ş Ş K K AH VE
P R O S Location, location, location! How can you not love drinking coffee, having drinks or grabbing something to eat along the Bosphorus? C O N S The service is not the best and you may have to remind your waiter of something forgotten. Also, the prices are on the higher side: they need to pay that rent one way or another. T H I N G S T O K N O W They don’t take reservations and there’s
often a wait after 11:00 for weekend brunch. On the bright side, the garden area is lovely – and did we mention, you are by the Bosphorus?... Kuruçeşme Mahallesi Muallim Naci Cd. 64/B, Beşiktaş / Istanbul 0 (212) 265 47 34 Madame Feronia Meyhanesi
Feature VIOLETA PATIN IOTI T’S S UMMER TIM E and the livin’ is easy’…so easy! This
song plays in my mind whenever I travel to Atatürk Airport along the seaside Kennedy Avenue. At some point beyond Yedikule, you’ll begin to see people enjoying life at the median streets. Colourful tablecloths, music (coming from a car or sometimes from cheap speakers outside), people relaxing, shoes left on the green, kids playing with a ball, women cutting tomatoes and peppers to prepare a salad — and men fighting above a one-use BBQ system over who knows how to grill the köfte better than the other… This is the typical, traditional — very cheesy yet very real — public Turkish barbeque aka mangal — the little thing you love to hate in this part of the world. The ritual dates back to the Ottoman era. The term mesire was the Turkish word commonly used to refer to picnicking, but nobody uses that term anymore. Twentieth century historian, Ahmet Refik mentions that during the 16th century, Sultan Süleiman revived the ritual of mesire whilst rebuilding Istanbul, and so countless gardens and parks were then built in areas where water was plentiful like Kağıthane and Üsküdar. In his book about Istanbul, the 17th century traveller Evliya Celebi writes of the city’s mesire parks and hasbahçe (the parks of the Emperor). The greatest of all of these was the Sarayburnu Hasbahçe which had over 8000 gardeners to oversee its grounds. Mesire was considered the centre of social life for the spring and summer. By contrast, during winter and autumn, socialising took place at hamams and coffee shops. A mesire that continues to be popular to this day is Kâğıthane Park (Hasbahçe). During the height of the Ottoman Empire, Muslims gathered there before Friday prayers and Christians after the Sunday service. Back in the 16th century Kâğıthane Hasbahçesi had waterfalls, and fresh water. Today the fresh water is gone but the park is still green and is a nice place to relax and enjoy a picnic. And there are plenty of water sellers wandering around the park. The park is divided into four parts. There is an area with horses where kids and adults can enjoy rides, and green space where kids usually play with balls; the far western area (towards the Golden Horn) features small lakes and beautiful flowers, ideal for dates and relaxing after a busy day at work. Last but not least is the picnic area of the park. A couple of years ago, the municipality decided to help make citizens’ lives easier when it comes to barbecuing. They
wanted to make sure that the park would not be set on fire or overcome by smoke, and thus restrictions were set in place. On Sundays and during bayrams the park is packed, and it’s not the best choice for a picnic. But on any other day, the place is great for picnic, mangal and relaxation. So what were people eating back then for the mesire? According to historians the ideal picnic consisted of cold portions of lamb, stuffed vine leaves, semolina helva and other tasty and traditional foods that could be eaten cold and with no extra preparation. If people had forgotten anything, they didn’t have to worry: the mesires were always full of sellers. One sold strawberries, another oranges, or halva, or ice cream and so on. Today most of the sellers are hawking things like toys, candies, and packaged chocolates but you can always find a guy selling simit. Nineteenth century novelist and historian Julia Pardoe wrote that mesire is something unique and magnificent – a part of the Anatolian culture, and nobody and no reason will induce Turks to give it up. HOW TO MESIRE IN MODERN ISTANBUL Anywhere you see a green space is a good location to mesire. The most famous areas are from Sarayburnu to Yeşilköy. Then you can choose places like Ayvansaray, which is not so busy and filled with nice people. At Hasköy follow the smoke and you will find a BBQ paradise with kids, families and playgrounds. Sütlüce is also a nice choice for the youngsters since the park is located at the seaside close to the University. Bosphorus has choices as well with Emirgan, Tarabya and of course the Belgrade Forest being the must-see places. Locals will tell you the ideal place is Kazlıçeşme (at Zeytinburnu). If you are on the Anatolian Side, the best local picnic area is Kartal seaside. There is also Beykoz, with many parks and green spaces. When As they say, ‘the early bird catches the worm’. Although not set in stone, during bank holidays, bayrams and weekends, 10:00-13:00 is the first rush hour, with the second coming around 17.00. If you really want to avoid people, visit a picnic area after 14.00. Getting there Fill your car with all the essentials and start driving towards the park and then you get stuck in traffic. Absolutely everyone has the hope of parking their car at the entrance point of the park, but few make it, so pack light.
What’s your category? Without intending to, picnic parks automatically separate visitors into categories; there is the ‘teenagers area’, the ‘area with alcohol’, the area ‘for families only’, the area ‘for women only’ and so on. What’s cooking? For those who like to start the picnic early, items like cheese, tomatoes, bread and olives are essential. Later on, the picnic-mangal finishes with köfte and sucuk. There are always veggies and greens for salad. Lately, the new fashion is for women to picnic. This is where friends (the majority who go to the same Koran lessons) meet once a week at a park to picnic showing each other what they prepared (pies, stuffed vine leafs, meatballs and pastries). Mangal like BBQ Inside every local man is the passion for barbecuing. Every day they prepare to make the best mangal possible. Then they find the perfect mesire spot, secure their area, decide what to eat and run to the closest market for supplies: an aluminum BBQ, meat, napkins, forks, drinks… There are no worries about forgetting anything because there are planty of mangal neighbours to ask for help! Watch your head Back in Ottoman times the main event at the mesire was archery. These days archery has been replaced by balls of any kind being played in every way possible, posing minor dangers to the heads of any family sitting nearby. If you get burned, use yogurt. Try the night shift Many young people picnic at night when the majority of the population is sleeping after an exhausting hot day. These youngsters visit their favorite spot in the evening and stay until the next morning. There they relax with some music, possibly some guitar-playing and singing, and make plans for the future. How do I picnic? This is how it’s done: pack a nice picnic blanket or tablecloth, forks, knifes and big bowls. Select salad greens, vegetables, and some fruits, and decide on two to three spreads that will last throughout the day. Don’t forget water, napkins and cups and glasses. You’re ready to picnic! Where to go? For those living on the European side, the choices are many and beautiful: Maçka Park in Beşiktaş There’s a Macro Centre located close to the northern entrance of the park and a yummy köfte guy who works nights just after the tunel towards Nişantaşı. With the playgrounds, kids are so happy and free that you don’t realize how quickly the time passes. Yildiz Park in Ortaköy To picnic here you’re wise to be well prepared and don’t forget anything, because there is nothing nearby. If you want to drink something, head to Malta Koşk. Florya Atatürk Ormanı The Mangal is prohibited there so beware. However, it is a great oasis in the very built-up Bakırköy area. Kalamış Sahili at Fenerbahce This is a posh area. Don’t forget your bike or your skates! Emirgan Park Famous for the Tulip Festival, the grounds are well-maintained and there are several kiosks with prepared foods if you need them. It is the ideal place to enjoy some cold sandwiches with your honey.
Recipes to change the way you picnic: HUMMUS
1 1/4 cup dried chickpeas 6 1/2 cups water
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons tahini
4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 4 cloves garlic, crushed
6 1/2 tablespoons ice cold water Salt
Extra Virgin olive oil, to serve The night before your picnic, put the chickpeas in a large bowl and cover them with cold water equivalent to at least twice their volume. Let them soak overnight. The next day, drain the chickpeas. Place the drained chickpeas in a medium saucepan over high heat. Cook for about three minutes, stirring constantly. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cook, skimming off any foam and any skins that float to the surface. The chickpeas will need to cook for 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the type and freshness, sometimes even longer. Once done, they should be very tender, breaking up easily when pressed between your thumb and finger, almost but not quite mushy. Drain the chickpeas. You should have roughly 3 2/3 cups now. Place the chickpeas in a food processor and process until you get a stiff paste. Then, with the machine sill running, add the tahini paste, lemon juice, garlic, and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Finally, slowly drizzle in the ice water and allow it to mix for about five minutes, until you get a very smooth and creamy paste. Transfer the hummus to a bowl, cover the surface with plastic wrap, and let it rest for at least 30 minutes. If not using straight away, refrigerate until needed. This hummus will keep in the refrigerator for up to three days. Make sure to take it out of the fridge at least 30 minutes before serving. Optionally, to serve, top with a layer of good quality olive oil. Enjoy as a side dish for veggie sticks or spread it on any kind of bread. POTATO SALAD (FOR 4)
5 medium-sized potatoes
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped 3 sticks celery, chopped
2 slices of pickles of your choice ¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 cup strained Greek/Süzme yoghurt 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar Salt and pepper
Place all the vegetables into a large bowl. Add the olive oil and give the ingredients a good stir to coat everything evenly and allow the oil to absorb into the potatoes. Add the mayonnaise, yogurt and wine vinegar. Stir until everything is combined; no need to be gentle, as the stirring will mash up the potatoes somewhat and allow them to absorb the dressing. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm or refrigerate for later.
IW I’S JULY AN D A U GU S T P R OG R A M L IN E U P
Global Minds Book Club Meeting 2
Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds
Istanbook Club Book Meeting
Around Town in July July 1 – Global Minds Book Club Meeting; 2:00-5:00; Facebook: Global Minds Book Club (requires joining group) July 1 - July 15; Ali Mahmut Demirel Isle Exhibit; Arter Gallery; arter.org.tr July 1 - July 15; Can Aytekin Empty House Exhibit; Arter Gallery; arter.org.tr July 1 - July 17; 25th Istanbul Jazz Festival; various venues; caz.iksv.org/en/programme July 1- Aug 31; Uniq Open Air Film Festival (ongoing through September); biletix.com July 1 – July 3; Classic Automobile Festival; Tüyap Fair Convention and Congress Centers July 1 – July 8; Istanbul Mural Festival; Kadiköy; Facebook - @muralistanbul July 4 – Wiz Khalifa; KucukCiftlik Park; biletix.com July 7 – A Childlike Day – Special workshops during Istanbul Jazz Festival; Sakip Sabanci Museum@ The Seed; biletix.com July 7 - Istanbook Club Book Meeting; 2:00-5:00; Facebook: Istanbook Club (requires joining group) July 10 – Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds; KucukCiftlik Park; biletix.com July 11 – Shakira; Vodafone Park; biletix.com July 17 – Robert Plant and the Sensational Shape Shifters; Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu Acikhava Istanbul July 20 – 23 Big Burn electronic music festival; Suma Beach; bigubrn.istanbul/ July 27-28 Parkfest music festival; Volkswagen Arena; biletix.com
Kadiköy Waffle Festivali
Istanbul Cig Kofte Festival
Istanbul Cig Kofte Festival
Around Town in August Aug 3 - Aug 5 • Kadiköy Waffle Festivali; Kadıköy - Moda • Pendik; Facebook Festival Sepeti Aug 3 - Aug 5 • Büyükada Sokak Lezzetleri Festivali; Büyükada; Facebook Festival Sepeti Aug 12: Deadmaus: Kafes Istanbul; biletix.com Aug 12 - 16: Future of World Horticulture from Youth’s Eyes; Istanbul Congress Center; ihc2018.org Aug 18-19: Istanbul Çiğ Köfte Festival; Taksim Gummussuyu Mah.
# my clean BEACH A movement of multiple acts of cleaning to promote NOT LITTERING and discourage consumption of singleuse plastic.
SO FAR TURKEY HAS BEEN SLOW to pick up on international
initiatives regarding littering and recycling. Some municipalities have localized success but many, like Şile on the Black Sea coast are struggling. The present efforts require scrutiny to see where improvement can be made in areas such as the location and visibility of bins, recycling infrastructure and the design and use of powerful education tools such as visible signs, fines, public awareness campaigns and volunteer clean up days. The good news is that Turkey has a dynamic and curious population that can adopt better habits and practices swiftly once educated and convinced. Places like Şile face the extra burden of having a high influx of weekend and summer visitors, so though local education efforts are paramount the only way to ensure pristine beaches, forests and country side is to encourage awareness on the national scale. It is important to unify and include all citizens with the knowledge that each and every one of us has the right to enjoy the picnic places and the natural beauty and also shares responsibility for the environment, for the sake of ourselves, our children, our health, our country and our planet in its entirety. With this goal in mind and with the enthusiasm of both ŞİKAD (Şile Women’s Association) and Eco Istanbul / Çevreci İstanbul we held a Clean Up event on the seaside in Şile. TEMA held a sister event in Ayvalık, other events include Saint Michel High
Photography JODIE HARBURT LUCY TOOZE
School on Heybeliada, Eco Kalkan on Patara beach and many more are planned. The aim in Şile was to attract attention and to create the kind of fun, family atmosphere that will teach by setting example, also to ensure a cross section of attendees from the locals and the surrounding villages, Istanbul residents and members of the foreign community. Through raising awareness and actively collecting the litter we assist the Municipality and the staff, citizens and authorities fighting the litter battle. Our goal is to create a sense of unity and collaboration among all involved and to remind everyone of the deep connection with and reliance upon the health of our planet. We had a great day and hope to have incited momentum through mentions in the local and national news. Benefits and observations We had a chance to meet with others, chat, clean and exchange ideas and enthusiasm We witnessed progress in hard work from the bottom up, collaboration and the spread of a collective sense of ownership and responsibility We concluded that a potent social media campaign might help get more involved We noted that foreigners seem to be more dedicated to the hard work involved in actually cleaning up We noted that many who said they would attend did not and that the most obvious lack of attendance was from the local
schools, university and community (other than members of our Women’s Association) We realised we need to nurture the growth of a positive and proactive attitude in our friends here in Turkey We saw that many seem to be disconnected from nature and from other groups of people and we wondered how we could help forge healthy and meaningful connections We wondered how we could share the concept that ‘when we look after nature we are investing in our future!’ Goals Create momentum by organizing and synchronizing additional Clean Ups Include others more successfully Activate a successful social media movement (produce a mini film and help our slogans spread #MyClean Beach and #BenimTemiz Plajım) As individuals or as groups: set the best possible example by collecting litter wherever we are and by posting photos of ourselves on Eco Istanbul or other platforms
and cutlery, but I am luckily able (and audacious enough to ask) to borrow too. With this in mind and in aid of facilitating the birth of a Sharing Community within Istanbul I am attempting to create a CCCC. The idea is that it’s available to anyone, you can borrow it (or part of it) for a small cash deposit which is refunded in full with the return of the clean collection (you can also borrow/wash/ launder/iron cloth napkins too). The odd breakage is expected and not a cause for loss of deposit. Everyone can take a look through their cupboards - that plate that your neighbour left and you forgot to return in years, the cups that remind you of your ex, glasses that just collect dust, those odd forks that make you wonder if someone in your family has kleptomania - these can all be donated to our Şile based CCCC or you may start up your own local one! The collection will be eclectic, any design is fine as long as they are not chipped or cracked. This is a step towards a sharing, collaborative and collective community plus we get to save ourselves and our planet from the horrible single use stuff. Please don’t be deluded about paper disposable cups and plates; these too have waterproof coatings that render them unfriendly to our environment!
I think we can each find ways to become examples of a new way of living and I look forward to working towards that with the wonderful people I met at our Clean Up. I also noticed that since our event new relationships are blossoming between the participants and one even mentioned that his herniated back has recovered!
Illumination A point that our Clean Up brought to light (with the permission of / thanks to Jak who shows tolerance and positive attitude to what must be constant and not always welcome attention). As foreigners we are used to being noticed. Often we are subjected to positive discrimination and the colour of her skin brings Jak extra attention. The village ladies who had kindly attended our Şile event and provided homemade snacks for us all insisted on having their photos taken with Jak. The patient and communicative attitude that Jak exhibited in response is exactly the kind that teaches, shares and connects people. We also note that the curiosity and hearts of local people are wide open such that we can make progress and collaborate.
The CCCC: Community Crockery and Cutlery Collection Many of us dread having to use disposable plates and cutlery, I have made a real effort to be ‘zero waste’ at recent home gatherings and have accumulated a fair amount of crockery
Join us on: Eco Istanbul / Çevreci Istanbul (Facebook Group) www.multitudeofones.com www.facebook.com/multitudeofones/ www.instagram.com/multitudeofones/
Donate to and support the CCCC (see below) Collaborate and share ideas and knowledge with each other Commit to Less Waste or Zero Waste lifestyles
helping the homeless
ÇORBADA IT WAS A SUNDAY AFTERNOON AND the small kitchen at Çorbada Tuzun Olsun Derneği in Cihangir was crowded as several volunteers cooked and chatted while tending to a large pot. Over the next few hours they would prepare enough hot soup to feed about 250 homeless people in Beyoğlu.
Çorbada Tuzun Olsun was established to raise awareness about people living on the streets of Istanbul and find effective ways to combat homelessness. The nonprofit association takes its name from a Turkish idiom “çorbada tuzu olmak” meaning “to be involved in something”. It is estimated that there are 10,000 homeless people in Istanbul, and many more if the “secret homeless” of squatters in derelict buildings are counted as well. With the rapid rise in rent prices and large influx of people into the city, there is growing stress on the system. As a result, more people are finding themselves living precariously from one day to the next. Çorbada Tuzun Olsun’s main goal is not to simply feed the hungry on the streets, but rather to address the root causes of homelessness. The homeless do not fit any specific profile or age. Some are homeless because they do not have the means or support network to afford shelter, others may suffer from mental health issues or severe psychological trauma, and still others may be fleeing persecution. They are women, men and children. They are Istanbullus. They are migrants from conflict areas in the region including Syria, Iraq, and Afghanistan. Çorbada Tuzun Olsun offers soup to anyone in need. And soup is used to start conversations. The warm meal is a way to engage with people on the streets and learn about their circumstances. For example, through its Reintegration Program, Çorbada Tuzun Olsun works in partnership with other local organizations to re-home street people, help them find jobs, as well as provide psychological assistance
Feature WENDY CHAN
and rehabilitation programs for those dealing with substance addiction. In addition, under its Humanitarian Program, Çorbada Tuzun Olsun, also collects clothing, shoes, and blankets to distribute to people on the street and there is a group focused on helping children. As a policy, Çorbada Tuzun Olsun does not give soup to unaccompanied children as a way to discourage parents from using their children to beg for money. Instead, the organization tries to reach out to the parents, encouraging them to come along with their children in order to obtain the soup. Once the families are engaged, Çorbada Tuzun Olsun helps the children enroll in school and extracurricular programs. Every night, volunteers gather on Başkurt Sokak in Cihangir before spending two to three hours distributing soup along pre-set routes in Gezi Park, along Istiklal Caddesi, and in Firuzağa Mahallesi. The volunteers are diverse; they are individuals interested in lending a hand, as well as groups from schools, offices and other associations who want to help. One volunteer is Tuğba Ersoy, a recent graduate from Boğazaçi University and now working as an English teacher at a private school in Istanbul. Over a year ago she encountered a young girl on the street who was alone and barefoot on a cold winter day. Tuğba felt compelled to find a way to help the young girl, and searched for local charities that focus on the homeless. She found Çorbada Tuzun Olsun. Starting out as a volunteer distributing soup and talking to the people on the streets, Tuğba quickly became passionate about the cause and devoted more of her spare time working with Çorbada Tuzun Olsun. Her enthusiasm resulted in greater responsibility, first as a Day Leader and now managing the AIESEC Global Volunteers, students from around the world who come to Istanbul to work on projects that contribute to
with Çorbada Tuzun Olsun. Her enthusiasm resulted in greater responsibility, first as a Day Leader and now managing the AIESEC Global Volunteers, students from around the world who come to Istanbul to work on projects that contribute to the UN Sustainable Development Goals. For Tuğba, helping the homeless is her main objective, but bonding with the welcoming and tight-knit community of volunteers has made her feel part of a big family. Connecting volunteers like Tuğba to people on the streets is mutually beneficial. Volunteers see first hand that the homeless are often just regular men and women who have fallen on hard times, rather than someone to be feared or shunned. For the people living on the streets, the volunteers engage with them, listen to their stories, and offer support to help them build a more stable life. Through social media, news stories, and word of mouth Çorbada Tuzun Olsun has grown to include approximately 100 regular volunteers, as well as many sponsors and donors. But more help is definitely needed. In addition to monetary donations, the organization welcomes contributions of soup ingredients such as lentils, bulgur, and vegetables. Skill-based volunteers like psychologists are needed to help develop programs. And volunteers are always encouraged to drop in and take part in the soup distribution every night in Beyoğlu from 8:00 pm to 10:30 pm. Çorbada Tuzun Olsun Website: www.corbadatuzunolsun.org Facebook: corbadatznolsun Twitter: @corbadatznolsun Instagram: corbadatznolsun Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
The Improbability of Love by Hannah Rothschild (Bloomsbury)
UMMER. TIME TO RELAX, spend time with your nearest and dearest, enjoy lazy days in the sun, and revitalize body and soul for the year ahead. As you lie back in your deck chair, you need a good book to refresh your mind and whisk you away to other times, places and people. Here are some tried and true suggestions from the annals of IWI Book Club: A GENTLEMAN IN MOSCOW Amor Towles
Members described this novel, set in a famous old hotel in Moscow, as ‘immensely satisfying’ and a ‘book to luxuriate in.’ EMMA Jane Austen
Emma was the IWI book club’s actual selection but Austen’s novels are all worth reading. Enter the comfortable and closed world of the 19th century English gentry, described
A Gentleman in Moscow by Amor Towles (Penguin Random House)
Feature LESLEY TAHTAKILIÇ
with subtle irony, gentle humour and deep insight into the human character.
as like ‘opening a door into someone else’s brain’.
THE IMPROBABILITY OF LOVE Hannah Rothschild
ELLA MINNOW PEA Mark Dunn
THE CLAN OF THE CAVE BEAR Jean M. Auel
And my personal favourites:
A light read set in contemporary London. One member described it as ‘the Da Vinci Code of the art auction world.’
A novel set in the Neanderthal Age? Sounds unlikely but here it is, filled with fascinating details about the Neanderthal and the Cro-Magnon peoples. Described by one member as ‘a well-written and easy read.’ AMERICANAH Chimamanda Ngosi Adichie
‘After the first sentence I was hooked,’ said one member. Another described this account of the life of a young Nigerian woman living in Nigeria and later the United States
A story told in an extremely unusual way containing a message very relevant to our times – described as ‘out of the box.’
MY FAMILY AND OTHER ANIMALS Gerald Durrell A memoir of a famous naturalist’s childhood years on the island of Corfu. Hilarious every time I read it. Perfect for summer reading.
A FAR CRY FROM KENSINGTON Murial Spark
A neat little novel set in the literary circles of post-war London. Witty and ironic, even Austenesque. Central to the plot is a sensible and effective slimming plan.
the specialist’s solution to
CELLULITE Feature ACIBADEM HOSPITAL
I T IS N OW BE LIEVED that by undergoing several sessions over a two or three-month period makes it possible to achieve a cellulite-free body. Currently, a new method is being developed to resolve the problem of cellulite: the nightmare which haunts women. Doctor Bahar Öznur, a dermatologist at Acıbadem Ankara Hospital, shared some tips to help women attain a cellulite-free body. Öznur states that many women wish for smoother skin and slimmer physique in order to feel better about themselves and take pride in what they wear. She describes cellulite as a condition which is more common on thighs and buttocks and leads to an irregular “orange peel” appearance consisting of small dimples. Similar to an orange peel There are connective tissue fibers positioned vertically to layers of fat in the subcutaneous adipose tissue, Öznur says. “There is fatty tissue between and around these fibers. The length of these fibers does not cause problems so long as the diameter and height of the fat layers and fat cells are the same as this length. However, when these fibers become shorter or thicker due to various reasons, cellulite appears. These changesresult from hormonal causes, genetic factors, circulatory disorders, psychological effects, working constantly in a seated position, a sedentary lifestyle and bad diet. As a result, the skin starts to look irregular and tough, a condition is referred to as the “orange peel look.”
The four phases of cellulite Öznur has stated that cellulite develops in four phases. The first phase involves a circulatory impairment in which the fluids from the veins fill the tissues. In this phase, referred to as the “edematous stage”, it is possible to treat cellulitis easily. In the second stage, there is more visible swelling and the adipose tissue is compacted and bumps and sagging in problem areas become more visible. Doctor Öznur points out that the instances of edema increase and the fat becomes harder to eliminate by the third phase and treatment is more difficult than in the first phase. Öznur says that in this phase, the collagen fibers surround the adipose tissue and form the small bulges referred to as “micro-nodules”. In the last phase, accumulated fat, water and salt molecules in the tissues can not be used by the organism, leading to larger bulges called macro-nodules. In this phase cellulite becomes even harder to eliminate. Öznur says, “Treatment in this last phase takes a very long time and it is possible to fail in yielding good results. However, even if the condition cannot be eliminated completely, it is possible to return it back to the second phase. A person with cellulite needs to consult a specialist so that the phase of her condition can be determined through examination and the treatment can be planned accordingly”. Nutrition for fighting cellulite Öznur states that excessive intake of fat and carbohydrates lead to “hyperinsulinemia,” which is the presence of excessive insulin in the body.
On the other hand, Öznur notes that excess salt intake causes water to accumulate and edema to form in the body. Generally he recommends the following: “A diet poor in fibers triggers cellulite through constipation, which causes circulatory impairment in the legs. It is necessary to drink at least 2 liters of water per day in order to prevent and eliminate cellulite. It is also essential to exercise and engage in physical activities like walking, cycling, and swimming. The individual should maintain their weight and avoid rapid weight gain and weight loss. It is also necessary to avoid foods such as salt, sugar, alcohol, tea, coffee and fried foods, as well as smoking, which constricts the veins and prevents the skin from being nourished properly. Adopting reasonable dietary habits and consuming foods that ensure excess fluids to be removed from the body, such as white and red radishes, parsley and celery, are of great importance. Foods that are rich in vitamins A and E, magnesium and
phosphorus also speed up the metabolism and help skin become smoother.” Skinny trousers and knee-high socks cause cellulite If you want to eliminate cellulite, ditch the skinny trousers and knee high socks, which impair the circulatory and lymphatic systems. According to Öznur, “Loose and comfortable clothing should be preferred. In addition to a healthy diet and exercise, there are also massages which enhance circulation, as well as cellulite creams and some other methods. “Physical and mechanical treatment methods include Acoustic Wave Therapy (AWT), endermologie, carboxytherapy, vacuum devices combined with radiofrequency, ultrasonic cavitation, pressotherapy, laser therapy and mesotherapy. Treatment methods appropriate for the phase in question are chosen by specialists. The chosen methods are then applied together, generally in sessions scheduled 1–3 times per week, and are carried out in varying intervals and numbers,” advises Öznur. He adds, “It is possible to achieve the desired results with two or three months of treatment, involving 5 –15 sessions.”
NOTES FROM A MUSIC LOVER
Feature ANNA WNUKOWSKA
THE RE IS A WAY TO travel the world, to recall the atmosphere of all the magical places we have been. It’s called music. This playlist is filled with delicious pieces that will take you on a journey to many magnificent places filled with sun, joy and laughter.
Alecrim Dona Rosa Yo Le Canta a La Luna Gato Barbieri Una Noche Mas Yasmin Levy Dina Lam Richard Bona Parfum De Gitane Anouar Brahem Echale Salsita Paquito D’Rivera São Vicente Di Longe Cesária Évora Noche De Ronda Charlie Haden La Llorona Lila Downs Mondo Bongo Joe Strummer & The Mescaleros Galanton Lura The Girl From Ipanema Stan Getz, João and Astrud Gilberto Si No Te Vas Chavela Vargas No habrá nadie en el mundo Buika Mascadjon Lura Mãe Carinhosa Cesária Évora
Lizbona, Rio i Hawana Anna Maria Jopek Sing & Dance Lisa Ekdahl Man on Fire Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros Na Ye Lokua Kanza, Richard Bona, Gerald Toto Pic Nic na Salamansa Cesária Évora Lisboa Menina e Moça Carlos Do Carmo Joana Rosa Tito Paris Por Una Cabeza Yasmin Levy As Nosas Cores Uxía Mesecina Goran Bregović Ma Wone Charlotte Dipanda
You can follow Anna on Spotify, and search for her Lale playlists using ‘11120105825’
EX TE N D E D RAINY GREY ISTANBUL S PRING DAYS finally turned overnight into steamy warm ones, so we’re thinking of ways to escape the long months of heat ahead. A big summer challenge here is finding good beach and swimwear that fits our various expat-sized bodies and will not fall apart after the first swim of the season. In this city that produces so much of the world’s fast fashion clothing, it’s easy to fall back on our ubiquitous mall chains. Admittedly some brands do offer good inexpensive options, and those are noted below. On the flip side are boutiquetargeted resort wear brands, which offer creative, well-fitting suits and casual wear, though each piece may cost as much as a night’s stay in a 5-star hotel. Where to start, somewhere in the middle? As always, Eminönü, the central giant market neighborhood that never fails to provide whatever we need no matter how random, is a good place for a reasonably priced swimwear search, while shopping for everything else. Don’t be put off by cheesy catalogue pics of skinny Europeanlooking girls striking poses in bikinis and stilettos with vintage American cars. Long established Sunsurf does have a good mix of decently made suits for all sizes and activities. Find them on a prominent corner near the Spice Bazaar, or online at sunsurf.com.tr, offline at Hobyar Mahallesi, Yeni Cami Caddesi No: 4, 34112 Fatih. Up the hill near the Grand Bazaar, Argisa offers beachwear in a hole-in-the-wall shop, though a good style and size variety, rather comically if not offensively translated to English as “Normal” 36-44, “Battal (oversized)” 46-52, and “Jumbo” 54-60. Online at argisa.com.tr, offline at Beyazıt Mahallesi, Örücüler Kapısı Sokak, Kuşakçı Han No: 12/1-2, 34116 Fatih Dalida offers a large range of “Tam Tesettür Mayolar” aka burkinis, from active wetsuit styles, to others that look more like evening ensembles, but to each her own. Check the
Finding Swim and Beachwear
“Plaj” page for bikinis and cute skirted one-piece models as well, with sizes from 38 to 46. Mainly online at dalida.com. tr, but offline one storefront in Kocasinan Merkez Mahallesi, Mahmutbey Caddesi No: 241, 34182 Bahçelievler Fast fashion shops can fill the gap in swim and beachwear, though the very nature of these businesses is to produce disposable clothing. But for garments that may not see frequent use, the following are good options. No need to give websites and store locations, as these businesses seem to be in most malls across Istanbul, so are all too easy to find. But do browse them online first, as these brands vary in the age of their target markets, looks and size ranges offered: Penti, DeFacto, LC Waikiki, Oysho, Koton, H&M, Zara. Trendyol offers a well-priced online marketplace for all fashion items. Tip: though online ads make lots of sites look appealing, avoid Linkshe and other Chinese based vendors online, as tempting as their pics and pricing may be. According to reviews from numerous sources, returns are difficult if not impossible, and their goods are generally not as depicted. Sometimes the best suits for multiple summer usage are the most expensive, since designer brand garments generally include better linings and inner support structures. Unless you only plan to lounge by the water, don’t buy one you’re afraid to get wet. These brands are pricey, but worth a look even if just for fun. Seems Turkish designers must make their names abroad first, before being recognized and marketed in their home country. Turkish twin sisters started Oye in New York, then bought the brand back home to their native Istanbul. In their own words about their work, the identical twins say Oye “blurs the line between swim and style, inviting customers to open their eyes and see fashion beyond the beach” and “seductive silhouettes and a striking, fashion-forward aesthetic.” Online at oyeswimwear.com/
Swimwear brand 5thPosition is a inspired by the silhouettes of dancers. Based in Istanbul and Amsterdam, 5thPosition collaborates with such local talent as Rumisu, the whimsical print artists extraordinaire. Online at 5thpositionstore.com, offline at Müeyyedzade Mah, Tatar Beyi Sokak No: 6, Beyoğlu A luxury swimwear brand, Lily and Rose featres handcrafted embroidery, crochet and beading inspired by Turkish culture. Online at look.lilyandrose.com.tr/ created by London-based the swimwear brand Moeva, Turkish designers, is showcased at designer collectives such as Atelier 55 in Galata, Harvey Nichols, and in true resort style, the Ritz Carlton Hotel. moeva.com/ High-end collections are abundant for Istanbul shoppers of means. Vakko has some whimsical beachwear on offer, though at designer prices. Sadly, their Eminonu Outlet has no women’s swimwear, only men’s. The fashion trio of Beymen, Boyner and their YKM are also worth a stop, though it’s a rare brand here with sizes larger than 44. But Boyner does have an Outlet in Star City. And lastly, there is always Brandroom in Nisantasi, which modestly markets itself as “The World of Fashion,” – though in line with the reality of these times has discounted merchandise up to 70%. Online at brandroom.com.tr, offline at Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No:63, Nisantasi, Besiktas. When shopping for all types of summer attire, remember that “beach-ready” body shaming must be ignored. The important thing is to get out there, get some fresh air, be active, and enjoy the summer sun and fun. Need help braving the bazaars? Catherine Bayar can be reached through Istanbul Personal Shopper at www.facebook.com/ IstanbulPersonalShopper/
E R M AC
H E W ORLD IS FACED WITH critical environmental challenges in soil degradation, climate change, resource use, and protection of the natural environment. Cities as the centers of consumption and waste production are the major contributors to the “ecological footprint”. The “Ecological footprint” is simply the total amount of the earth’s surface needed to support a given city’s level of consumption and absorb its waste products. It is expected that by 2050, 70% of world population will be living in cities. For a holistic approach to sustainability, we must start from the cities by rethinking our consumption habits, creating awareness and attracting the attention of policy makers for greener, sustainable cities. Looking for more sustainable living solutions, permaculture comes up as a regenerative system that helps to reverse the damage we have been doing. But what is permaculture and how can we use it in cities? “Permaculture” was originally coined by Bill Mollison and David Holmgren in the 1970s from the words “permanent agriculture” but in time the meaning has evolved to “permanent culture”. Permaculture is an ethical regenerative, design system which mimics the nature. “It is the harmonious integration of the landscape with people providing their food, energy, shelter and other material and non-material needs in a sustainable way,” according to Bill Mollison. The three ethical principles of permaculture, earth care, people care and fair share are our guide in making everyday decisions for a more sustainable and harmonious living: Earth care Caring for all living and non-living things which are interdependent and interconnected. People Care Begins with ourselves and expands to include our families, neighbours and wider communities. By making sustainable choices, taking responsibility for our existence, and seeking ways to cooperate and help our own community, we can make changes with significant impact.
Feature and Photography
KOKOPELLI ŞEHIRDE Fair Share Setting limits and redistributing surpluses to earth and people. So where to begin? Good, Clean, Fair Food One of the most challenging parts about living in the city is having less control over the quality and sustainability of the food that we eat. “Slow Food – a global, grassroots organization – envisions a world in which all people can access and enjoy food that is good for them, good for those who grow it and good for the planet.” Grow your own food Growing your own veggies, herbs and fruit at home even in small places is possible. Grow your herbs on a window sill, or use your balcony. If you don’t have much space why not go vertical? Well as Bill Mollison says, “problem is the solution!” Community gardens If you still don’t think that you have the space or don’t want to grow your own food alone, there are community gardens that you can go to such as Kuzguncuk Bostanı, Roma Bostanı (in Cihangir), Fenerbahçe Topluluk Bahçesi (in Fenerbahçe parkı) Support local producers that care for the earth You can buy from the food communities like “Kadıköy Kooperatifi, Beşiktaş Kooperatifi Girişimi, Koşuyolu Kooperatifi Girişimi” that makes it possible to buy directly from local producers. Or you can visit Buğday Derneği 100% ecological bazaar for organic food Rethinking our consumption habits We constantly buy stuff, but do we really need it? Before making a purchase, consider if you can borrow, swap, make or reuse it. If not, then go and buy it. And always keep permaculture ethics in mind. Is this product healthy for me? Is it good for the planet? Are the chemicals in this soap that I bought healthy for my body? How do those chemicals affect the water systems? And, where does the plastic packaging go? Waste management In 2012, the worlds’ cities generated 1.3 billion tons of solid waste per year, amounting to a footprint
THIS PAGE top Located in Reşitpaşa, Kokopelli Şehirde is a place for children and adults to learn about and experience sustainable living and ecology designed according to permaculture principles. It is inspiring to see examples of vegetable beds, different types of compost and rainwater harvesting in a small space. The Kokopelli team also gives consultations and workshops for schools and corporations. THIS PAGE bottom Kids workshops are focused on ecology, permaculture and art, as well as culinary skills
of 1.2 kilograms per person per day. For waste management, the ideal way is not to create waste in the first place by making the right consumption decisions and trying to live a zero-waste lifestyle. In the cities, 60% of waste produced is organic waste. But the problem of organic waste can be turned into a solution by composting. It’s possible and very easy to make compost at home and turn organic waste into “black gold” for your plants.
ABOVE Kokopelli Şehirde offers workshops on growing your own food, fermentation, ecological architecture and others
Water use According to a report released by the World Wildlife Federation (WWF), about 1.1 billion people face water shortages in the world. Turkey is already a water-stressed country, and by 2050 Turkey is candidate for being a water scarce country. We take water as granted, however it’s a scarce resource that we must protect. One of the easiest ways to save water in the city is to simply collect it in large containers or tanks until it’s needed for use, a technique called simply as water-harvesting. We can’t save the world — that’s for sure, but we can choose to do better for ourselves and the community we live in, just start with small and simple solutions. ABOUT KOKOPELLI ŞEHIRDE Yasemin Kırkağaçlıoğlu and Elif Çatıkkaş founded Kokopelli Şehirde in 2017 for adults and kids to experience sustainability and ecological living. Kokopelli Şehirde offers programs for adults and kids at a facility in Reşitpaşa and visits schools and corporations to establish permaculture gardens and conduct workshops. Their name comes from Kokopelli, a Native American mythological character who carries a bag of seeds on his back and plays a flute. Dispersing his seeds in the soil, he signifies spring, fertility and growth. Website: http://kokopellisehirde.com Facebook: @kokopellisehirde Instagram: @kokopellisehirde
Feature and Photography VERENA RINGE
A V ERY ABLE D INGHY SA ILO R, my husband possesses a lot of technical knowledge but little yachting experience; and I am an absolute novice to boating. On the plus side, we both can swim and like to be close to water. Our adventure started long ago with the idea of escaping on the waves, to be our own bosses, free of the traffic and crowds; literally sailing off into the sunset – a dream most people share. Since we are in our mid-60s we decided it was time to do something to make that dream a reality. So we decided to buy a small sailing boat.
necessarybrepairs on vital rigging components, waste-water tank faults, sink drainage problems, old sailing ropes etc. The boat we finally chose had no obvious problems. It was a 10-year-old, 32-foot craft and had only one previous owner. A slightly bigger boat would have offered more room for comfort, but it would have also cost more money in the long run given the additional mooring fees and taxes. Marine mooring costs are high and we needed some reserve for maintenance. At that point, our boat was basically ready to sail.
The decision came about due to an unexpected lump sum of just-enough-money. We had a choice: put it in the bank for unforeseen catastrophes, or fulfill my husband’s childhood, later teenage and finally adult dream of sailing his own boat. The boat won by a whisker and with no time to lose, we investigated on the internet what we could afford. A wide variety of options seemed suitable. After carefully examining the reviews, three sailing yacht-producing companies remained in the running. A racing boat was out of the question: we wanted something comfortable and manageable for the two of us and our anticipated occasional guests.
A week after dealing with legal paperwork to change ownership, my husband had the the Teos marina facilities where the boat was moored remove the boat from the water for inspection. An inspection of the keel is important as unknown faults or damages of the hull under the water level cannot otherwise be seen. We took this opportunity to put on a new coat of paint with antifouling measure to repel future barnacle attacks. It was finished within three days. We then learned that the wireless communication system on boats and ships requires a separate licence under Turkish law, which the previous owner didn’t have. He was fined 1200 TL for his omission. We duly applied for this and we keep the forms on the boat in case of coast guard inspections.
The next step was to view suitable boats. I had no idea what to look for, as I had never sailed or taken a yachting holiday in my life. On the other hand, my husband knows how to sail and has the necessary papers which are equivalent to a driving licence. There are marinas all over Turkey and we made appointments to view about 20 boats across seven marinas, from Istanbul to Çeşme and Marmaris. Despite having comparable prices and sizes, the boats we saw covered a multitude of conditions. Some boats had easy-to-spot flaws, others needed further investigation which uncovered such conditions as too much bilge water (under the floorboards), a neglected engine,
The fun began with a weekend trip to Teos to visit our boat. The car was full of stuff to kit out the boat to make it home-y and ours. Fortunately, many things had been left on board for us, and only the purchase of bedding, towels and personal items remained. In our delight to become boat owners we neglected to ask several vital questions, such as which switches on the control panel were for sink drainage, the heater, navigation lights, water pump, refrigerator and the connection to the gas cooker (vital for the essential cup of tea). While this took some
time to sort out, the inspection of storage space went quickly as there is not much. Apart from the pots which are stacked higgledy-piggledy under the sink, and on top of drainage pipes, all kitchen equipment, including food, must fit into three small narrow wall lockers. This, with a shelf for cleaning materials under the cooker and a prep area atop the fridge beside the sink, constitutes the kitchen area. Food preparation develops into an art form. The wardrobes in the front and back cabins are about 80 cm high, 50 cm wide and 40 cm deep. All other storage is utilised for safety harnesses life vests, first aid kits, water tanks, batteries, tools, ropes and bench cushions for the cockpit. I haven’t found a place for towels, blanket, sheets and pillows yet. In the daytime they wander from on top of the beds to the top of cabin seating by nighttime. I have yet to discover the technical aspects of the boat. As I mentioned earlier, my husband has a lot of knowledge but little experience when it comes to boating, so he and his brother hired a commercial small-boat captain to sail the boat together from Teos/Çeşme to Istanbul. Mooring was arranged in Viaport Marina in Tuzla. Travelling several days and nights, with stops for food, fuel and sleep at Bozcaada and the Marmara islands, we learned a lot about handling the sails and navigating the currents, especially through the notorious Dardanelles. There’s much to learn, and we often learn it the hard way! In a small space, tidiness is essential for comfort and survival at sea, so we always make sure everything is stored away safely. And from one new boat owner to another, never spend your last penny on your dream boat, as it will need costly minor repairs and overall maintenance. We reserved a quarter of our original lump-sum for this purpose and we’re glad we did. The enjoyment from sailing will come in a few weeks, when hopefully, everything will run smoothly and we won’t wake up in a panic when a stray cat walks across the roof of our cabin, a metre over our heads.
T YING the
KNOT in Turkey
Feature MELEK BARNGROVER
M A RRIAG E IS A B IG DECISIO N for most people and the whole experience can be a bit intimidating, not least of which because it’s a legal contract with another person. If you’re thinking about getting married in Turkey as a foreigner, this article will provide information on the requirements necessary.
While marriage to a Turkish national does not guarantee that you will be granted citizenship, it does help expedite the process. Foreigners married to a Turkish national can apply for Turkish citizenship after only 3 years of marriage rather than waiting until after 5 years of continuous residence.
Does marriage to a Turkish citizen offer a residence permit, the right to work, or anything else that would make living in Turkey easier? Unfortunately, marriage does not automatically provide nor result in any enhanced resident status in Turkey. Generally speaking, being married to a Turkish citizen gives authorities reason to consider a foreigner’s petitions and applications with a bit more flexibility. Otherwise, your rights and status don’t change much in the short-term.
With regard to work permits, marriage to a Turkish citizen makes you eligible for exemption from the standard work permit criteria if you are married for at least three years. You still must apply for a work permit in almost all cases if you are foreigner, but the labour ministry can choose to assess your application differently on the basis of your marriage to a Turkish citizen. If your marriage ends in divorce, the foreign divorcee may be eligible to receive a short-term resident permit, provided that they had previously stayed in Turkey more than three years with the family residence permit. If, however, the foreign spouse is able to establish that they ended the marriage because they were the victim of domestic violence, then the aforementioned three-year requirement is waived. Additionally, the foreigner may apply for another residence permit if the normal requirements for it are satisfied.
The non-Turkish spouse, and any minor or dependent nonTurkish children are able to apply for family residence permits after the marriage with the sponsorship of the Turkish spouse. It should be noted that a foreigner who is living legally in Turkey for at least one year with a residence permit can be a sponsor as well for his/her foreign spouse or children for family residence permit. The family resident permit is generally looked upon more favorably by the powers-thatbe during work permit approval procedures and you may get longer extension compared to short-term residence permits or student permits when you renew it. The family residence permit can be issued for a maximum of three years each time, but authorities may issue the first one for a period of a single year. In case the sponsor is a foreigner, the residence permit duration cannot exceed the duration of the sponsor’s residence permit. Successfully obtaining your family residence permit is contingent on certain criteria applicable to both the foreign as well as Turkish spouse, most notably, financial resources.
Which country’s laws determine one’s eligibility to marry? Pursuant to the Turkish International Private and Procedural Law, the eligibility of each party to enter into marriage is determined by their respective national laws. For this reason, foreigners in Turkey are required to obtain an affidavit declaring that they are eligible to marry from their consulate or from their own countries with apostille. What is the procedure to get married? Parties must apply together to the Marriage Registration Office (Evlendirme Memurluğu) in the municipality (İlçe) wherein either the bride or groom resides. Marriage officers are mobile for a fee, so it
is possible to have the actual marriage ceremony performed almost anywhere. If, for whatever reason, you need the support of a Marriage Registration Office in another municipality (one in which neither bridge nor groom live) in order to perform the actual ceremony, you can request that support with the permission of your local Marriage Registration Office. Applications must be presented jointly, unless one of you has the special power of attorney (special in that it is explicitly for the marriage application process). Municipalities sometimes vary in what they require, but below are the common things you will need to present with your marriage application: A health report issued by a recognized public or private heath institution in Turkey. Your local family health clinic can take care of the health report. However, some tests may require the services of another health clinic. A word of warning for those who don’t like needles: the health report includes blood testing; Several portrait photos; A copy or notarized copy of your passport (varies according to municipality) for foreign partners, copy of national identity card for Turkish partners; An affidavit of eligibility issued by the foreigner’s consulate and approved by the office of the local governor (Valilik) or district governor (Kaymakamlık). If the affidavit is brought from the foreigner’s country, it will need an Apostille. This document must state your name, surname, father and mother’s names, date of birth and any impediments to marriage. Some municipalities may require a notarized Turkish translation of the document; Birth certificate copy. This is not always required and its necessity might depend on whether the parents’ names are documented in the affidavit of eligibility. Apostille will be needed if it is brought from the foreigner’s country; Petition document (Evlendirme Beyannamesi). This may be required by some offices. This document serves to explicitly state your desire to get married. Some municipalities also require a translator for the foreigner especially for the wedding ceremony since the marriage officer will ask you verbally whether you have consent to get married without prejudice in addition to asking you the names of your mother and father. The Marriage Registration Office will check and verify all of these documents and work with you to set the date and time for your ceremony. If both parties are foreigners marrying each other in Turkey, you may marry before either of your diplomatic representative offices in Turkey or before Turkish authorities, provided your respective national laws grant authorization. Do you have to inform any official institution about your marriage? If you perform a marriage ceremony before Turkish authorities in Turkey, the marriage has to be notified to the Nüfus Müdürlüğü (Civil Registry) within 10 days following the date of marriage. Normally, this notification is performed by the Evlendirme Dairesi (Marriage Office) official who presided over the marriage ceremony, but you’d be wise to double check afterward that it has been done. The foreigner will need to update his/her marriage status with the Göç İdaresi (Director General of Migration Management) soon after the date of marriage, typically 20 working days. Failure to notify the Göç İdaresi in time may result in a fine.
Are polygamy and same sex marriage possible? Only monogamous, heterosexual marriage is legally recognized in Turkey. Polygamy does occur but is illegal. If you find yourself in that situation, the state will recognise only the first and annul any subsequent marriages. If there are children as a result of an illegal marriage, it is assumed that children were born in the marriage and divorce provisions for the children are applied rather than annulment for the sake of the children. What type of marriage ceremony is obligatory? Do you have to perform a religious ceremony? In Turkey, only the government marriage is recognized, and in fact marriage ceremonies in Turkey can be performed with a minimum of two witnesses in public before the authorized officer (Evlendirme Memuru). The bride and groom must declare their consents verbally. As the ceremony will of course be in Turkish, some municipalities may require a translator to be present if the foreigner doesn’t understand the marriage script read during the ceremony. After the evets and the signatures, the officer bestows the marriage certificate on the newlyweds. Religious marriage ceremonies are not compulsory in Turkey, but if you want one, you must have your government-issued marriage certificate already in hand. However, in reality, the official marriage certificate is seldom asked for at religious ceremonies and many couples have their religious ceremony before the government ceremony. What about the bride’s surname? In Turkey, a woman is compelled to take her husband’s surname after marriage unless she submits a written application to the marriage officer or Civil Registry stating that she wants to use her previous surname together with her husband’s surname. However, in this case, her previous surname must come before her husband’s surname. If the woman has already had two surnames, she can choose just one of them to precede her husband’s. There is an avenue available to women who really want to retain
the use of their pre-marriage surname alone, but that avenue requires court action. Women who have taken that route have succeeded on the grounds that restricting a person’s ability to retain their surname is a violation of their individual freedoms according to the European Convention on Human Rights, to which Turkey is a signatory. After divorce, a woman is expected to return to using her previous surname. However, if her continued use of her husband’s surname does not inflict damage upon her exhusband, she can petition the divorce judge to permit her to continue carrying her ex-husband’s surname. If we have children, will my children have Turkish citizenship at birth? A child born of a Turkish mother and a nonTurkish father, regardless of whether the parents are married or not, is a Turkish citizen at birth. However, a child born of a Turkish father and a non-Turkish mother, will not have Turkish citizenship at birth unless the parents are married. If the child is born out of wedlock, the Turkish father must either establish parentage or legally adopt the child in order for the child to become a Turkish citizen. What if you just have gotten divorced and want to marry again? Eligibility for marriage is determined by each party’s respective national law. If the woman is a Turkish citizen and her marriage and subsequent divorce are registered with Turkish authorities, she will have to wait 300 days before getting married again unless she proves she is not pregnant from her previous marriage or she wants to remarry her exhusband. However, if she gives birth during the waiting period, she will not need to wait further. A Turkish man is not subject to the same waiting period after a divorce. Foreign women are not subject to this waiting period either as long as she obtains the eligibility affidavit which shows that she is eligible to marry. If we divorce, what happens to our property and assets? With few exceptions, any property acquired during the marriage by either spouse is considered as Matrimonial Property and thus subject to sharing agreements during a divorce. Under Article 15 of the Turkish International Private and Procedural Law, which governs matrimonial property, spouses may clearly designate either the local law of their habitual residence or the national law at the time of marriage to govern their matrimonial property. Where no such choice has been made, the common national law of the spouses at the time of marriage, or in the absence of common law, the local law of their habitual residence at the time of marriage shall govern or in the absence thereof, the Turkish law shall govern. Under Turkish laws, there are four types of matrimonial property regime agreements. These are (i) participation in acquisitions, (ii) separation of property, (iii) separation of property with distribution, and (iv) community of property. Parties can choose one of these regimes by notarized agreement before or after the marriage or by written declaration at the time of the marriage application. If the couple does not choose a regime, “participation of acquisitions” will be enforced in divorces for marriages dated after 01 January 2002. The “participation of acquisitions” regime states that properties acquired during the marriage shall be shared after divorce, except for certain properties such as (i) personal belongings used by just one spouse, (ii) assets belonging to just one spouse at the beginning of the marriage, acquired without consideration, or acquired free-of-charge, (iii) compensation for pain and suffering, and (iv) substitute values of pre-existing personal properties. Turkish laws which limit the rights of foreigners to own immovable property carry great weight. Immovable property
includes land and homes. Presently, there are restrictions on the size and location of immovable property, as well as the total area of a district which can be owned by foreigners. If we divorce, what happens to our house? Will I have to move out? As a rule, there can be only one recognized matrimonial home, regardless of how many properties are owned. Both spouses have some rights on the matrimonial home because of its importance as part of their common lives. In disputes as to who is to move out of the home, the divorce judge makes a ruling. This decision determines the period of stay in the home and notifies the land registry for annotation. At any time during the marriage including the period of time before a divorce is final, it is possible for one spouse to protect the matrimonial house from the actions of the other spouse. Under Article 194 of Turkish Civil Code, without the other spouse’s explicit consent, the lease contract of the matrimonial house cannot be terminated, the matrimonial house cannot be transferred, and rights on the matrimonial house cannot be restricted. Additionally, the spouse who does not legally own the matrimonial house can request an annotation to the land registry restricting actions made on the home, such as sale or mortgage. A spouse who legally owns and intends to undertake an action on the matrimonial house, such as a sale, but who has not been able to gain the consent of the other spouse can, with just cause, ask for a judge’s interference. It is significant which country’s law will be applied to marriagerelated issues. Where another country’s laws are applied to marriage-related issues, the information outlined above may not be relevant. MELEK BAR NGR OVER IS A LAWYER in Istanbul and a veteran of the pharmaceutical industry. She can be reached at melekbarngrover@ istanbul.av.tr
t e g s Let’
Your Neighbourhood Community Meetup (NCM) administrator organizes meet-ups and activities in your area. This is a great opportunity to connect with other women and discover what IWI has to offer. Unsure what area you are in and who to contact? Ask us at email@example.com
MACENTA (Beşıktaş, Levent) firstname.lastname@example.org
PEMBE (Bebek) email@example.com
SARI (Sarıyer) firstname.lastname@example.org
MOR (Nişantaşı, Beyoğlu) Vacancy, email@example.com
MAVİ (Göktürk) firstname.lastname@example.org
YEŞİL (Yesilköy, Bakirköy) email@example.com
LACIVERT (Beykoz) firstname.lastname@example.org
KIRMIZI (Kadıköy, Üsküdar) email@example.com
New To Istanbul? Every month we hold Newcomer Coffee Mornings where you can learn more about IWI and Istanbul. Contact us to find out more. EUROPEAN SIDE firstname.lastname@example.org
ASIAN SIDE email@example.com 59
GROUPS AND ASSOCIATIONS
Have a particular passion or want to learn one? There are IWI social clubs and other associations to get involved with in Istanbul. It is a great way to expand your community, make new friends and ﬁnd support! Mahjong Club
Union Church of istanbul
Roller-blade Bike Group
Mahjong group meets every Monday at 10:30 - 16:00. No previous experience required! For details, contact Gesa Horna 0(537) 362 4912 Mimo – firstname.lastname@example.org 0(536) 273 24 89 This is an Asian-side meet-up. Bikes can be rented, but bring your own rollerblades. It’s lots of fun. For details, contact Gabriele Sailer: email@example.com
Friends of Arit Istanbul
Union Church of Istanbul is an international, interdenominational church that offers services in English. Contact: ucistanbul.org Speech Bubbles Theatre, is a drama group composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers/musicians from the international community; which also runs a part-time school of performing arts for children and adults on Saturday mornings. Contact: firstname.lastname@example.org
Friends of ARIT, was established to support the ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey) in Turkey; and runs a year-round programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. Contact: 0 (212) 257 81 11.
Belgium Friends of Istanbul
Women’s Bible Study
For details, contact Mary Akgüner: email@example.com
International Women’s Bible Study group meets Tuesdays from 10:00 until 12:30. Contact Vicki Günay: 0 (532) 314 1134.
Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls build leadership skills through the development of strong values, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls ages five and up are welcome. Contact Kat Bekham: 0 (542) 300 24 92 or firstname.lastname@example.org
American Women of Istanbul
AWI is a social network open to American and Canadian citizens in Istanbul. Contact Monisha Kar or Sia Israfil; awiistanbul@ gmail.com
Running Group is a monthly membership. Thursdays 19:00 & Sundays 8:00, Caddebostan sahil. Contact Marina Khonina: email@example.com or 0 (534) 982 83 07
Tennis Group takes place at Istanbul Tennis Academy (ISTA) in Istinye. All levels are welcome! For details, contact IWI Sports Coordinator, Olga: firstname.lastname@example.org
The photo club, a group of international members of varying skill levels (basic to semi-professional), and share the common desire to capture the world in a photograph and explore Istanbul while doing so. Contact Tammy Ni: email@example.com.
The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gather every month for social (such as drinks, brunch, or dinner) and cultural activities. Contact: firstname.lastname@example.org
Bridge group meets on Fridays at 10:30. All levels welcome! For details, contact Sandra: 0 (532) 483 5319. or email@example.com
For details, contact gaye hiçdönmez: firstname.lastname@example.org or 0 (532) 700 0693
Boy scouts & cub scouts of america are youth programmes for character development and leadership training. All boys holding a foreign passport are welcome. Cub scouts: boys ages 6-10. Boy scouts: boy ages 11- 18. Contact vicki günay: 0 (532) 314 11 34 or graygunay@gmail.Com
Asian Ladies of istanbul
The asian ladies of istanbul is a nonprofit social group for ladies from east asia living in istanbul. Contact kim cakirkaya: kim. Cakirkaya@gmail.Com or 0 (533) 463 69 30
Chicas (Spanish Women of istanbul)
Chicas unite latin americans, spaniards and others spanish speakers to socialise and help from each other in a friendly environment. Contact: chicasestambul2016@gmail.Com
Dnsi (Dutch School of istanbul)
Dnsi provides dutch language and cultural lessons to students (3-16 years old); and a one-week dutch summer school. Visit our website for more information: www.Dnsi.Nu
Nvi (Dutch Community of istanbul)
Dutch club istanbul keeps typical dutch festivities alive and organises activities for dutch-speaking community. Contact Lisette Ruygrok: email@example.com
InterNations is where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. For information visit our website: www.internations.org
Istanbul Rugby Center
Rugby Club in Istanbul has coaching for children and teenagers. Turkish, English, French and Spanish are spoken. www.istanbulrugbycenter.com
Alcoholics Anonymous & al-anon
For more information and a full listing of all English-speaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website: www.aa-europe.net and www.istalanon. blogspot.com.tr. Al-Anon meets Thursdays 6:30pm at the Dutch Chapel Union Han, 237-239 Istiklal Caddesi, near Tünel in Beyoğlu.
C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have volunteer opportunities that require various skill set on our platform, www.4carma.com, and also organise events where NGOs present their projects and brainstorm with other professionals. For more information, contact firstname.lastname@example.org.
Die Brücke, a platform for the German-speaking community, organises social activities and provides information on education and immigration. www.bruecke-istanbul.com
Istanbul Accueil provides the French speaking community in Istanbul information on events and activities. Contact: email@example.com or Website: www.istanbulaccueil.org
Portuguese speaking group. Isabel Ponte Gulpan: 0 (532) 274 16 53
PAWI (Profn’l American Women of Ist.)
Toastmasters int’l Istanbul
Circolo Roma (Comunità Italiana)
South Africans in istanbul
PAWI is a network of American and Canadian women living in Istanbul that strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Contact: firstname.lastname@example.org the Italian Association organises social activities, Italian/Turkish conversation classes, and much more. Visit our website for more information: www.circoloroma.com
Friends of India Association
Friends of India Association (FOIA) connects Indians in Istanbul through various social events. Contact foia.istanbul@gmail. com
Swea (Swedish women edu.. Assoc.)
SWEA, a world-wide network for Swedish-speaking women, organises events and activities; and welcomes everyone who speaks Swedish. Contact: email@example.com
Ottoman Rugby Football Club
Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome. We practise Saturday 16:00-18:00, except on game days. www.ottomansrugby.com
The English-speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club helps members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment. Contact: vpmembership@ istanbultoastmasters.org For information please contact: firstname.lastname@example.org
An Expat Football Community of amateurs who enjoy playing and learning football. Ages, skills and experience welcome. Facebook: @iTeamFootball
LITTLE SISTERS OF THE POOR Contact Mother Mary:. email@example.com or 0 (212) 296 46 08
Support group for parents of children with special needs
Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs; and additional resources for your child? Contact Carol Crous: 0 (533) 730 71 48
Mums ‘N Kids Meetups
IWI has weekly meetups and playgroups organised according to children’s early years ages. Please contact firstname.lastname@example.org for more information and resources.
IWI DIRECTORY / CLASSIFIEDS / PARTNER OFFERS
I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho rebalancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.
APARTMENT FOR RENT IN KARTAL Furnished/Unfurnished apartment for rent in Kartal off Sahil Yolu. Available October 10. Beautiful views of the Marmara Sea from every window. Excellent transport links. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms. Compound of 4 buildings, great security and state of the art gym; indoor and outdoor pool. 5,800 TL furnished, 4,500 TL unfurnished (furnitures and appliances can be sold separately). Contact: Mimokhanoflynn@gmail.com or +905362732489.
PARTNER OFFERS ADA SUITES
IWI Member Discount: 20% discount (Code: IWIADA20) Ada Suites believes that each guest has unique needs and expectations; and we know our hospitality will make you feel special. Located in the heart of Nişantaşı, and minutes away from the hippest luxury shopping; best restaurants and cafes; and major health centres like Acıbadem and American Hospital. www.adasuites.com
ANNE NATURE ORGANIC SKINCARE
IWI Member Discount: 15% discount Anne Nature’s six-piece certified organic skincare line, covers all the basic needs in skin care for child, mother and the whole family. IWI members receive a 15% discount on any purchase from the web page: www.annenature.com with the promocode ‘IWI’ (in addition to any existing promotion campaigns)
C.C.C. - CHRISTINE COTTON CLUB
IWI Members Discount: 10% discount (valid at Kadıköy, Profilo AVM & Bağdat Cd. stores) C.C.C. is the premier PLUS SIZE BRAND for women in Turkey since 1985. Please check our website for our latest collection: www. cccshopping.com
CHILL OUT SPA NIŞANTAŞI
IWI Members Discount: 15% discount on all treatments and package programs British salon owner, Ann Marie Sabuncu is offering IWI members a 15% discount on all treatments and package programs. Chill Out Spa is a small boutique spa using quality products from Decleor and the latest in technology. LPG body treatments and reflexology are just some of the treatments available. For more information please contact Ann Marie at 0212 231 1159. www. chilloutspa.com.tr
CLINICAL PSYCHOLOGIST/ PSYCHOTHERAPIST
IWI Member Discount: 20% discount Katerina Tenezou is an accredited Clinical Psychologist and certified Psychodynamic and Cognitive- Behavioral Psychotherapist who provides individual, couples’ and group psychotherapy to Englishspeaking expats. Her expertise is in treating mental disorders, addictions and relational problems. IWI members receive a 20% discount on the session fee. For more information, visit: www. drayhankalyoncu. com Office Tel/ WhapsApp: +90 533 340 98 81, GSM: +90 543 836 97 82
IWI Members Discount: free Turkish conversation classes that take place twice a month between 14:30- 15:30 Located in the heart of Etiler, Concept Languages is offering one free Turkish conversation and grammar class to any IWI member presenting their card. Classes will take place twice a month between 14:30-15:30. For information and reservations, please contact: Başak Toksoy 0 (212) 351 18 40 or basak.toksoy@ conceptlanguages.com
CONRAD ISTANBUL BOSPHORUS
IWI Member Discount: 15% discount Make Wednesday night jazz night at Summit Bar & Terrace at the Conrad Istanbul Bosphorus. Savour the smooth sounds, trio performances and breathtaking views of the Bosphorus every Wednesday between 8:30pm-11:30pm. IWI Members receive a 15% discount for WednesdayVibes. For further information or a reservation, you may call 90 212 310 2525 or email Conrad_ Istanbul@conradhotels.com 63
DENTIST BURÇIN GOFF
IWI Members Discount: 25% discount on all treatments Located in Çengelköy - Anatolian Side. All treatments with 25% discount to IWI members. Address: Albay Hüsamettin Ertürk Cad. No: 4 D: 23, Çengelköy-Üsküdar. Mobile: 0536 357 9808. Email: email@example.com
IWI Member Discount: 40£ equivalent voucher IWI Member Discount: 40£ equivalent voucher EKRIA is a timeless, contemporary jewellery brand for men and women. Each EKRIA piece is 1 micron Gold Plated Sterling Silver, crafted with laser-cut precision. To benefit from a 40£ equivalent voucher on any of your purchases, enter EKRIAFORIWI code on www.ekria.com.Come to visit us at the showroom in Istanbul; Vali Konagi Cad./ Kodaman Sk. No. 9; Mim Plaza, A Blok, 5th floor, office 83, Nisantasi firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: +90 212 230 9110
IWI Member Discount: 10% discount Ahmet ve Bilge Kadıoğlu are following their family’s 130 year old business tradition in selling spices, teas, nuts and fruits as well as herbal cosmetics. IWI members are being offered a 10% discount on the websites www.hayfene. com and www.ucuzcular.com.tr for not discounted products. The promo-code is “iwistanbul”. Also, get a 10% discount at their shop in Mısır Çarşısı No 51. For more information: email@example.com
ISTANBUL UNIVERSITY LANGUAGE CENTER
IULC offers discounts for IWI members. IULC, in the light of modern developments in foreign language education, by benefiting from the academic branches of our university in teaching foreign languages (English, French, German, Russian, Arabic, Spanish, Greek, Portuguese etc.) especially “Turkish as a Foreign Language”, is in the status of Istanbul University’s opening window to the world. For more İnformation, please see: http://dilmerkezi.istanbul.edu.tr/en/ or call: +90 212 243 67 29.
PERSONAL LIFE COACHING
IWI Member Discount: 20% discount Experienced in Expat life for 15 years, I am ready to assist you during your transmission period. I am a certified Life Coach, Intercultural Trainer and MBTI Specialist. I speak German and English fluently. I would be happy to offer 20% discount to IWI members. Ozlem Hersek: 0 (532) 616 50 45 firstname.lastname@example.org
PRIVATE TENNIS LESSONS
IWI Member Discount: 20% discount For Kids and Adults of all skill levels. Located in Istanbul, we specialize in coaching all skill levels. We’ve got you covered. Our classes focus on rapid development while being affordable and fun. We offer 20% discount to IWI members. Mert Ozgenc: Certified tennis trainer, more than 12 years coaching experience. Mobile: 0532 602 3883, Email: email@example.com
LINGUA ISTANBUL / TURKISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL
IWI Member Discount: 20% discount Lingua Istanbul teaches Turkish at every level, to foreigners living in Turkey. Lingua Istanbul offers 20% discount for all IWI members in private tuition and group classes. For detailed information and contact: www.linguaistanbul.com, firstname.lastname@example.org, 0 (542) 636 39 89
THE MARMARA TAKSİM
IWI Member Discount: 30% discount on all Spa services (Massage, Scrubbing, Facial treatments and the like) Cleanse your body and mind at The Marmara Taksim Spa. Rejuvenate your body and mind with massages from the magical fingers of expert masseurs and masseuses, as the cooling waters run over you… Reward your body with curative skincare treatments… Let your mind and spirit roam while your body relaxes in the centre of town... Membership for non-resident guests: IWI members receive special benefits upon membership for gym, exercise classes, pool and Turkish bath. Please contact Gym & Spa reception for further information at gym-info@ themarmarahotels.com or +902123348424.
MARRİOTT ŞİŞLİ SPA & HEALTH CLUB
IWI Member Discount: 20% discount Indulge in a day of relaxation and pampering at our luxury spa. We offer a wide range of massage and beauty treatments, guaranteed to refresh and renew you. IWI members receive 20% discount. Appointment is required, Phone: +90 212 3750100 ext. 3695
IWI Member Discount: 20% discount on full price prenatal yoga and birthing classes, workshops, massages and mother-baby yoga classes Momma Zen & Annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy for the pregnant woman, baby yoga and baby massage workshops and kid’s yoga. We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birth classes, workshops, massages and mother-baby yoga classes. Momma Zen/Annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. www.momma-zen.com or www. annezen.com/program
IWI Member Discount: 20% Since 1953, Nazaryan Kundura is offering exclusive handmade genuine leather shoes to Women. IWI members benefit from a 20% discount on readymade and made-to-order shoes. Zülfü Yılmaz, Rumeli Cad. Zafer Sk. No: 38/A Nişantaşı/ İstanbul, Tel.: (0212) 241 39 24 Gsm: (0535) 429 87 98
IWI Member Discount: 15% discount Shandra Day SPA, Bebek, the Skincare Specialists Our Skincare Specialists are professional and experienced estheticians who will recognize and meet all the needs of your skin. Your skin is unique, so we use the sophisticated cosmetic brand Darphin, with CACI Non-Surgical Face Lift & LED Light Therapy to bring youth and vitality to your skin. IWI members receive special discounts: 15% discount for all treatments; 20% discount for a series of treatments. For the further information and the whole treatment list visit: https:// shandraspa.salonized.com, Contact phone: 05443235081.
IWI Member Discount: 50% discount Shibue Products are Revolutionary Fashion Solutions designed for the everyday woman! Strapless panty, instant breast lift and lots of innovative lingeries are available on the site below: http://www.shibueturkiye.com//LookBook.pdf. We offer %50 discount for all IWI members. Please DM Ulduz Azad for your special discounted orders. Mobile : +90 5323315909, E-mail: email@example.com
SWISS CENTERDENT DENTAL CLINIC ZORLU CENTER
IWI Member Discount: 20% discount on all services Swiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, İstanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you Swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We strive to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for all IWI members. Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212/ 353 63 83 www. swisscenterdent.com
TIME OUT SUBSCRIPTIONS
IWI Member Discount: 25% discount on subscriptions Time Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discount on subscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city. Find out how you may get your free issue by contacting: Omer Karanis, omer@ ajansmedya.com; www.timeoutistanbul. com
Membership Directory Membership information is only available online in the members only area of the website at present, but depending on sponsorship availability, may again be printed in the future as it was in the past. Whether online or in print, any and all member information is provided to IWI members in strictest conﬁdentiality. Provision of member information to third parties contravenes IWI policy
Membership is open to all women who hold a Non-Turkish passport. For application details, please visit our website www.iwi-tr.org. Membership registration is also available at our Newcomers meetings, held each month on both the European and Asian sides. Please refer to the Newcomers page in this Lale magazine for details of timing and location. Changing Address? Don’t forget to give us your new address (postal and/or e-mail) to avoid delays to the delivery of Lale magazine or for up-to-date IWI member information. Contact our Membership Coordinator by e-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org.
If your Lale magazine doesn’t arrive, please contact the Membership Coordinator email@example.com
To place an advertisement please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org. Advertisements must be conﬁrmed through signed contract before any payment is accepted. Classiﬁed ads: Restricted to 50 words. Member cost: 1-3 FREE in our online publications (Non-Commercial Ads) Non-Member cost: $60 plus 18% VAT. All advertising costs are payable by bank transfer. No cash payments accepted. A copy of the payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: advertising@ iwi-tr.org. Only paid advertisements can be included in Lale.
DISCLAIMER Lale Content The IWI as an organisation and the IWI Board members act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not accept any liability regarding the accuracy or content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles. In order to comply with these laws or publishing standards the IWI reserve the right to reject or edit any submission to Lale. Furthermore, the IWI does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers. Programmes Cancellation of a programme reservation after the deadline remains fully payable. Please refer to our website www.iwi-tr.org for up to date details, last minute additions or programme changes. The IWI reserves the right to cancel programmes due to insufﬁcient numbers. You are responsible for both you and your child’s safety and the IWI cannot accept responsibility for injury or extra cost incurred during any activity organised by the IWI, or advertised in Lale.
MEF International Schools Istanbul Campus Ulus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus Beşiktaş, İstanbul, Türkiye T. +90 212 362 26 33 F. +90 212 257 82 25 email@example.com www.mefis.k12.tr