Lale November December 2017

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The Magic of Crete

Visit this Island Steeped in History

Walk the Talk

Yoga 101 Learn the Basics, Philosophy and History of Yoga


Entrepreneurs Share Their Best Advice

Sourcing Material for your Handmade Goods




4 BUSINESS NETWORKING Business owners share the

best advice they received


healthy and sustainable living in the big city; A special film and photographic tribute highlighting expat Dianne Jones untiring service to helping those in need

12 AROUND TOWN Highlights of our IWI September and October programmes





12 NEIGHBOURHOOD Walking the walls in Yedikule 14 HANDMADE Where to source materials for all your

handmade needs

21 INTERVIEW Eye on African art with Daffa Konaté; The sisters and co-owners of Doma Hotel in Chania Crete reminisce about its history 48 MUMS ‘N KIDS Speaking a common language through art with Aloe Vera Art


16 FITNESS An Introduction to yoga 26 THEATRE The Istanbul Theatre Festival returns 30 GOURMET Istanbul got a jolt at the 4th Annual Coffee Festival; Pop-Up Istanbul: Come for the food, stay for the company


34 BOOK CLUB Book Club 2 Invites readers to join them as they read around the world

35 BOOKS Local academic and author Gillian Alban discusses her new book Medusa Gaze

38 TRAVEL The island of Crete will sweep you off of your feet; Take a Tour of the best Christmas markets around Europe 46 WELLNESS Minimalism – Be more with less


LALE BOARD INFORMATION IWI Office Hours: First Wednesday of the month, 10:30am to 1:00pm. Answering service available every working day


Adres/ Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 705 6215 Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul

Vice Chairwoman



Advertising Coordinator

Business Networking Coordinator

Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027

Communications Coordinator

Community Coordinator

İrtibat Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahallesi, Büyükdere Caddesi, Ecza Sokak. Pol Center No: 4/1, Levent, Istanbul – TURKEY

Events Coordinator

Lale Editor

Membership Coordinator

Mums N Kids Coordinator

Newcomers Coordinator (Asian Side)

İmtiyaz Sahibi / Licensee: Yasemin Kunze Adres/ Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli Tasarım / Design: Marlet Corporate Publications +90 216 386 32 16 Matbaa / Printer: Marlet Print Solutions Fener Kalamış Caddesi: No:30 Kalamış / İstanbul +90 216 386 32 16 Basım Tarihi: 24.10.2017 Sayı: 90 Official Facebook page: Instagram account @iwistanbul Cover picture by: Anna Ilhan


Newcomers Coordinator (European Side) Online Marketing Coordinator

Programs Coordinator

Social Responsibility Coordinator

Sponsor Support Administrator

Sponsorship Coordinator

Venue Administrator

Volunteers Coordinator




t is a proven fact that September and October are the best months in the year. However, I am starting to see some merit in November and December:

The fashion is still killer: Literally. I don’t know how the ladies walk here in their sky-high shoes without breaking an ankle, but they do, and they look fabulous. Seriously though, I love a good boot and scarf and (fake) leopard-print- coat. Meow! Your favourite fruit and mine (disguised as a vegetable) is in abundance. That’s right – pumpkin! I’ll be riding the pumpkin bandwagon for as long as I can. If I look a little orange this month, you’ll know why. It is great running weather. I signed up to run a 15K in mid-November because I love to run and it’s one of the few ways you get to see the city with no risk of being run over by a car. But I also love to overcommit and then somehow think that I can cram for the race at the last minute like it’s a test. That pumpkin spice latte is sure going to taste good after collapsing over the finish line. If you like something more calming, check out page 16 on Yoga My life revolves around my next meal, and one of my favourites is Thanksgiving. It is an American holiday where we cook all day, stuff our faces by 4 pm, with things like pumpkin pie, and then go into a food coma watching American football. A couple of years ago, I had the good fortune of attending a Thanksgiving Pop-Up at Kay Redrup’s house, and in this issue, I got to talk to her about how she pulls off these dinners in our Gourmet section on page 32 Now that I have been in Istanbul for a couple of years, I look forward to the IWI’s annual bazaar. On December 3, we will hold our Winter Festival where artisans, non-profit organisations, businesses, and talented cooks all come together to create a magical event for the city to enjoy. And, if you are feeling a little peckish, don’t forget – our Christmas lunch will be at the cosy Chalet on the grounds of the Swissotel. See page 50 for more details. You won’t want to miss it! I’d say November and December are giving September and October a run for their money! All the best, MONISHA KAR Lale Editor



uring the holidays, my childhood memories are ones of happiness. This was my mother’s favourite time of year. The month between Thanksgiving (4th Thursday of November) and Christmas my mother would make our modest home one of fun, love and joy. As an adult, this time of year is also about managing expectations of family back home and obligations here in Turkey. Of course, as an expat I know I am not alone in these thoughts. Although I look back upon the family traditions we had during my childhood with great fondness, I also recognise that in Istanbul we have our own family traditions. My husband and I truly enjoy traveling through Europe during the holidays. The lively Christmas markets; the city-wide light displays and decorations; and the seasonal cakes and cookies make it a joy to experience. Of course, being a part of the International Women of Istanbul our holiday traditions also include the Annual IWI Winter Festival and supporting the Little Sisters of the Poor (Bomonti Fransız Fakirhanesi) Annual Winter Kermes. What I have learned as an adult is that family traditions start in the heart and spread through the common love of sharing. These traditions create a positive family culture; one that tells the story of the family identity and builds a strong unit of comfort in our fast-paced lives. And that is what makes this season special. Warmest Regards, Anna Ilhan IWI Chairwoman P.S. IWI is a long-time supporter of the Bomonti Fransız Fakirhanesi through direct monetary donations, members’ volunteering efforts and members’ donations of household items for the Kermes. If you are interested in donating any household items (specifically decorations, porcelain, handbags, home textiles and jewelry), please contact Annelies at





As Oscar Wilde once said ‘The only thing to do with good advice is pass it on. It is never any use to oneself.’ While the cynical among us may find truth in this quote, many of us have benefited from the guidance of a teacher, parent or friend, as our business members shared with us


rom the time we are little until the day we die, we receive countless advice – whether we asked for it or not. So what should you heed, and what should you tune out? We asked business members in our community for their favourite nuggets of wisdom and how they have incorporated it into their lives.

Question: What is the one piece of advice that you have been given by a mentor, customer, friend, or family member that has helped you in starting your own business?

Tara Lutman Agacayak, Founder, Tara Lutman Agacayak Coaching and Consulting Advice: “Failure is Not an Option” Tara helps people launch and grow businesses that last, and got this advice from a Silicon Valley angel investor: ‘We get 60 applications for funding every month,’ the angel investor told Tara, ‘and we accept less than 10 of those. The only people who succeed are the ones who have decided that failure is not an option. They always figure it out’. Noémie Deveaux, Photographer at Noemie Deveaux Photography Advice: "Delegate" “I don't remember receiving any special advice when I was launching my business. However, after more than two years of working as a professional photographer, I felt the need to be cracked and I worked with Tara Lutman Agacayak. Among many, she gave me this great advice: ‘delegate!’ When you have a special ability, no one else can handle this special part. But by delegating time-consuming tasks (web researches, accountability and/or cleaning and ironing), you offer yourself more time to work (or take breaks!) and a free your mind. Of course, you will pay for this service, so it might seem difficult to invest money at the beginning, but in fact you give yourself more time (and peace of mind!) to focus on high-value add activities”. Monica Fritz, Owner, Alternative City Tours Advice: "Only do what you love to do, and what comes naturally" “This advice was not spelled out to me it was what I understood from years of talks with a very close artist friend, someone who is considerably older than I and who I have great respect


for. I don't always take all his advice but I love to hear what he thinks when obstacles arise. Laughing at the absurdity of it all lightens me up and I feel free to experiment and be creative in my work. I have also learned the importance of humour — something that is inborn but needs to be kept alive”. Rachel Smith-Bahadir, Owner Balancing Life Yoga, Owner & Kidding Around Yoga, International Teacher Trainer Advice: “Always Do Your Research” & “Know how to connect to your Audience” “I’ve received much great advice over the years, which has helped me to be successful in life and business. Some of the best advice I received early on in my professional career is “always do your research’ and ‘know how to connect to your audience.’ This advice was given to me by Marion T. Pope, Jr. (AKA Judge Pope), former Chief Justice of the Georgia Court of Appeals & former member of the Georgia House of Representatives, USA. While working as a personal assistant to Judge Pope I quickly learned 1) he never turned downed a meeting with a person, if he had time; and 2) he never went to a meeting with a person without researching (or having me research) the person’s background, learning personal details and having a way to personally connect with each individual”. Daffa Konaté, Owner, Kelen, African Art Promotion Advice: “Do what brings you joy and take action”

Pegah Moshfeghi, Owner, Pegah Jewellery Advice: “Think about what it takes to be the best at your job, and take risks to reach the top”. This advice was given to Pegah by her father. She believes that making dreams a reality requires you to take risks and face your challenges. And, putting an emphasis on improving productivity, process and performance at each step of your journey will help you achieve your goals. Julia Bayram, Anne Nature, co-owner; business consultant Advice: “Don’t forget to praise yourself along the way” “I was going through a difficult period in my previous job, and my boss, told me ‘Look around Julia, what you see is created by your efforts, your knowledge, your passion. Never forget to look back and praise yourself, it will give you a power to believe in yourself, the belief that you can do everything that you want.’ Since then, I have come to peace with myself, that I can do anything, that I will survive and do any job, be involved and progress in any area. This has helped me to jump into a totally unknown business for me - he belief that ‘I can’”. Jenna Hughes-Anlar, Barbera HotelGeneral Manager Advice: “Every detail is important”. “Especially in a hotel, it’s the small things that matter. From the sheets to the warm towels ready after a shower - we want customers to feel like the hotel is their second home. Aside from that, we are able to offer personalised programs, local tips and advice to guests as we are a boutique hotel in the perfect old city location, Sirkeci”.





Wendy Chan discovers how social enterprise EK BİÇ YE İÇ is building awareness of responsible food production and consumption to city dwellers


ucked underneath a contemporary art gallery just off Taksim Square near the German Consulate, is an innovative café called EK BİÇ YE İÇ with a socially driven mission to promote healthy living, wellbeing and sustainability in Istanbul. Indeed, its name captures the essence of this social enterprise -- EK BİÇ YE İÇ means “Plant Harvest Eat Drink”. It is a calm oasis in a chaotic city -- encouraging people to think about food and nature in an urban context.

“WHERE DOES THE FOOD WE EAT COME FROM?” AND “HOW IS IT PRODUCED?” To EK BİÇ YE İÇ, two questions are critically important for Istanbul -- now, and in future generations: “Where does the food we eat come from?” and “How is it produced?” As a restaurant and catering business, it is dedicated to using locally produced food cultivated using sustainable farming methods. This means maximizing nutrition and flavour by harvesting food when ripe and at the peak of freshness. Sustainable production facilitates a healthier and more mindful relationship between people and food in this city. And, central to EK BİÇ YE İÇ’s philosophy is ensuring that the foods served in the café are affordably priced so that anyone can choose to eat healthily and locally.


In Turkey and around the world, there has been growing awareness about the additives, preservatives, and chemicals often used to grow food and keep it fresh. And with global warming many people are concerned about the carbon footprint created when food is transported over long distances. EK BİÇ YE İÇ is trying to address both of these important issues by bringing urban farming, using sustainable techniques, to Istanbul. It is intent on reversing largescale farming practices that result in entire farming regions transformed to grow a single crop, meanwhile destroying local ecosystems. Also, it is trying to prevent food from being harvested early in order to travel vast distances. And lastly, it

LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY is striving to keep food production local so that farmers are not pushed farther and farther away from the city they serve.

LOCALLY SOURCED, SUSTAINABLY GROWN A variety of vegetables, salad greens, and herbs are grown onsite at the café to supply the kitchen with produce without the use of pesticides or herbicides. Year round indoor aquaponic systems, which combine hydroponics and aquaculture, are used to grow greens and cultivate fish together symbiotically. In warmer months the back-garden supplies fruits and vegetables, while quails are raised for eggs.

To this end, EK BİÇ YE İÇ organizes workshops and knowledge-sharing talks covering a wide range of topics. Food-focused workshops teach participants to make fresh pickles and gut-friendly fermented foods at home. For budding hobby farmers, there are plant cultivation workshops with an urban twist, such as gardening on your balcony, composting under your sink, and growing mushrooms in your garden. And for those more serious about urban farming there is a certificate course on Permaculture Design.

Ingredients not produced directly at the café come from community gardens around the city. For example, EK BİÇ YE İÇ maintains a garden on the Üçgen Teras rooftop at Akmerkez shopping mall in Etiler. The chefs at EK BİÇ YE İÇ use the locally grown bounty to create tasty salads, soups and sandwiches for patrons of the café, as well as dishes for catering clients. At EK BİÇ YE İÇ they are passionate about sustainability including trying to minimize waste. Dining at the café means using real plates, bowls and utensils. Hot drinks are served in ceramic cups and cold beverages come in glasses with metal straws that are washed and reused. Takeaway containers are made from eco-friendly biodegradable paper, and composting is a key part of the café operations as well as at the Akmerkez garden.

INCORPORATING SUSTAINABILITY IN EVERYDAY LIFE EK BİÇ YE İÇ is more than just a restaurant and catering operation. It provides a collaborative space for individuals and organizations interested in urban farming and sustainability. It strives to help bring nature into the day-today lives of people in the city.

Social projects are also undertaken to help spread the word about urban farming. In May, EK BİÇ YE İÇ helped the Yusra Community Center create a rooftop garden and teach the centre’s children to grow their own organic vegetables. Little by little EK BİÇ YE İÇ seeks to influence a wider audience to think more broadly about the uses of urban space to maximize opportunities for sustainable food cultivation and ensure a greener future for the city. EK BİÇ YE İÇ believes that when people start growing fruits, vegetables, and herbs on their terraces, backyards, and rooftops they will better understand the efforts required to bring food to the table. And ultimately, people will become more responsible consumers and our city will become a more healthy, enjoyable and sustainable place to live. Next time you are in Taksim, drop into EK BİÇ YE İÇ and try some of their tasty foods and refreshing juices. Take a look at the walls lined with leafy salad greens growing in hydroponic systems. Wander out back to their garden. Plant Harvest Eat Drink -- healthy living never tasted so good. EK BİÇ YE İÇ is located on İnönü Caddesi, No:9a in Taksim, Beyoğlu / İSTANBUL, +0212 293 5242, and open MondaySaturday, 8:30 am – 6:30pm. For more information or to contact them, you can visit: Email: Facebook: @ekbicyeic Instagram: ekbicyeic Website:



SQUARE HUGS: STITCHING FOR LOVE Photo Club of Istanbul members Katherine Baker and Linda Caldwell shine the light on the extraordinary Dianne Jones, founder of LILY, who despite limited resources and publicity, is making a difference to refugees’ lives in Turkey


t started with hats! We were staying with friends between Christmas and New Year and our hostess would sit down to chit chat and knit after supper. My husband was fascinated by her ability to do this and produce something of use — woollen hats. Not just one, but up to three in an evening. Linda explained that she was making the hats to support a charity based in Kuşadası called LILY (Love in the Language of Yarn). The craft group that Linda is a member of has been supporting LILY for some time with donations of handmade hats, knitted squares, children’s clothing and other craft items. These items are given to Syrian refugees in need or sold to raise funds to help the refugees. LILY was founded by Dianne Jones, a British lady living in Turkey, in memory of her first granddaughter who was stillborn. I had long been meaning to start knitting again, and squares for the charity would be a good place to start; to hear that someone from my country was actively helping refugees was fascinating. My husband and I visited Dianne during a short visit to Kuşadası and were astounded at what she was trying to do to help the many Syrian refugees; LILY is a small charity doing a huge job with limited resources and publicity but with the most heart-warming support from people all over the world. Since LILY was started, 3,276,516 squares have been received from all over the world, and 48,069 blankets have been distributed to refugees. A few months later Linda asked me to help her with her project to produce a short documentary video, and some still photographs, on Dianne and her work with LILY. These were to be for Dianne’s use as a publicity resource on her social media sites and perhaps YouTube, whatever would help to get LILY’s work known out there and to increase donations.


The plan was to spend some time with Dianne in Kuşadası to record what she does. Neither Linda nor I had any experience of such an undertaking so didn't know where to begin. We had a couple of workshops with Ayşegül Selenga and Delizia Flaccavento, professional mentors that we have worked with on previous photography projects through the Photo Club of Istanbul. Both are very experienced documentary makers but frankly the whole project became very daunting! We left İznik early on a Monday morning in July for the sevenhour drive to Kuşadası in a car loaded with craft donations and four bags of donated toys. Coming from a country where a two-hour drive is considered a major journey, I was a little apprehensive! But the roads were good, empty, and fast, so we arrived that afternoon — a little tired and very hot —but looking forward to the week. We had booked into a hotel in the old part of the city so our first challenge was finding it in the rabbit warren of tiny streets. Linda did a fantastic job navigating the extremely narrow lanes and we arrived unscathed and parked up, although we did decide to leave the car at the hotel and to taxi everywhere for the rest of the week! The Villa Konak is a very pretty family-run hotel with Turkish tea at 5pm every afternoon; we soon got into the routine of being back for home-baked pastries and biscuits! One of our concerns was if Dianne truly knew what to expect of us following her and how comfortable she would be. We arranged to meet her soon after we arrived to chat through her plans for the week. We met at the charity’s drop-in centre to deliver the donations we had brought from Istanbul. To our relief, Dianne was remarkably sanguine about having our company for four days. She was sure it would all be quite mundane but then let slip that she was to sing at a karaoke evening for a donation to LILY!

LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY We met Dianne at the drop-in centre the next morning. This has been set up in a retail unit as a place for refugees to come to, safely knowing that they would receive help, to get warm, to have a choice of clothes to change into, toys for the little ones and to provide storage for the many donations of squares and clothing that LILY receives.

Here Dianne and her supporters sort out squares and sew the blankets together. They also take home squares to their Turkish families and neighbours who have offered to help, fascinated by the efforts of the ex-pat ladies. It soon became clear that Dianne was more than comfortable with us filming and taking photographs. We were joined by Dianne’s friend and fellow ex-pat Jackie; she comes to the drop-in centre when it is open to sort donations, sew squares and to help prepare for the monthly table top sales that are held to raise funds. We had a fascinating day with them both learning about the charity, how it started and how it has evolved to do the work it does today. Later that evening we went to the Santana Sports Bar for the karaoke evening. This is a popular place for the Kuşadası ex-pats and the owner, Fikret, is a great supporter of LILY, hosting the monthly table top sales. Tave and Emma run the karaoke evening in the bar each week but tonight was special; Dianne had been offered a generous donation if she sang a song on her own tonight! The bar was full, lots of people, ex pats and visitors, were joining in.

Dianne sang her song, Sting’s Shape of my Heart, and then followed up with a duet with her friend Kim. A tray was passed around for spontaneous donations and a further 265TL was received for LILY. It was a fun night and presented us with numerous challenges for filming and stills but it was great to witness first-hand the support

for Dianne and her charity work. We strolled through Kuşadası the next morning. We didn't see any refugees on the streets as they are moved on very quickly by the authorities, keen to present the lighter side of life in Kuşadası resort during the summer months. The refugees travel to the city in the hope of a place on a boat across the Aegean Sea to Greece; Dianne and Jackie had spoken of many families with small children and new-borns that they have helped from the streets over the years, and it is difficult to reconcile that this incredibly dangerous option is all that people feel they have left open to them.

arriving in Turkey deserve dignity; they are fleeing a war zone and have not had a choice in giving up everything in their homeland. The families rarely ask for themselves, only for their children and it is to see the joy in their faces when they are given a soft toy or new shoes that Dianne and her friends do all that they do. Every square is used no matter how it arrives; misshapen, the odd dropped stitch, Dianne and the ladies will overcome these in the firm belief that every square is a hug. We heard this many times over the days we were with Dianne and it was very easy to see that the beautiful blankets wrapped around the shoulders of someone in need would indeed feel full of love. The monthly table top sales are an important source of fundraising for LILY but aren't held over the summer months as attendance drops due to the heat and people’s own travel plans. Dianne had agreed to have a sale while we were there so Thursday at the dropin centre was spent preparing for it. Dianne sorted out items for the raffle and Jackie sorted out clothing to sell. The craft group had sent down some beautiful crocheted baskets and purses, silver jewellery and handmade earrings. Some of the knitted items of clothing and blankets were chosen to be sold with permission from the donators. For a very small charity, LILY supports several projects reaching out to a large number of Syrian families. It currently supports six families in Turkey with initial accommodation costs and food cards. The drop-in centre doubles as a safe haven for families and as a base

Later we met Dianne and her husband Mehmet at the PTT for the usual Wednesday collection of parcels for LILY. There were only three on this day but it was fascinating to watch Mehmet head off with them on his scooter! Back at the drop-in centre Dianne opened the parcels. The items were displayed and photographed to say thank you on the LILY Facebook page. There were notes in the parcels to read and Dianne was often moved to tears as she spoke of the kindness of people in the world. She is adamant that the Syrian people


LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY five hours of footage was cut down to a more manageable 20 minutes. Once we had this, we met with Delizia and Ayşegül several times to start to turn the footage into a story that, we hope, will tell of Dianne’s compassion for the Syrian families she helps. The process of video editing is fascinating, detailed and time consuming, and we were very lucky with the support we have had. Linda has been absolutely dedicated in her commitment to this project and has learnt several new skills but I’m not sure either of us will be rushing into such an undertaking again!

for the charity. Dianne raises funds to provide nutritionally balanced food parcels for families of six to be distributed at religious holidays. The charity runs a bakery in Idlib, Syria to deliver enough bread twice each day for 2,600 families in five villages in the surrounding area. This has meant that the families do not have to risk being bombed whilst queuing for bread anymore. LILY also runs trucks to the camps at Izmir, Adana and Urfa to deliver the blankets, toys, clothing and toiletries donated by supporters of LILY. With a sum in the region of £5000/23000TL/$6500USD needed per month to maintain all that LILY does in support of Syrian families, any opportunity to raise funds must be utilised.

Friday was our final morning following Dianne. We arrived at the Santana Sports Bar to a hive of activity as the tables were prepared. The raffle prizes caught my eye….my favourite chocolate was on offer as well as many other ‘British’ goodies. Dianne uses an ingenious way for people to see if they have won a prize; the person receives a paper ’fortune cookie’ which contains the news! So much more fun than a ticket number and an excellent example of needs must as raffle ticket books are difficult to get hold of in Turkey! We had to return to Istanbul at lunchtime but later heard that 900TL had been raised, a fantastic sum for a quiet event but very amount helps. And no, I didn't win the chocolate in the raffle but the winner very kindly shared his prize! Thank you! We returned to Istanbul with five hours of video and 548 still images. Now the hard work would begin! I had the easy task of narrowing down my images to a more manageable 70 but Linda had to learn a new video editing program from scratch; this was a huge undertaking and she spent upwards of 200 hours watching the video content time and time again. The


Two months on, our film Square Hugs Stitching for Love is finished; it has become so much more than a project. I think it’s safe to say that both of us thought that we knew what we were going down to Kuşadası to film but the reality is that we didn’t expect to meet such a selfless, compassionate individual. We have both developed new practical skills through undertaking this project but we have also seen close up how one individual can effect change for many. Most humanitarian crises require donations of money, keeping the public at arm’s length; LILY has given people the opportunity to do something tangible, to feel they are genuinely helping, be it individuals, groups, whether knitters or not, and that is an important but rare opportunity. We hope our film will reflect this loving grandmother’s tribute to her granddaughter and thank Dianne, Mehmet and friends in Kuşadası for sharing their lives with us for a few days this summer.

To find out more about LILY and to donate, please visit Square Hugs: Stitching for Love will be screened on Thursday 02 November 2017 at 7:00 pm at Circolo Roma, Mesrutiyet Cd 75, Tepebasi, Beyoglu The Photo Club of Istanbul can be contacted on



Snapshots of some of IWI’s recent programmes: Ai Weiwei at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, a walk around Büyükada, Chocolate Making, Turkish Home Cooking and an Introduction to Turkish Culture



WALKING THE WALLS The Photo Club of Istanbul visited the old Istanbul neighbourhoods of Yedikule on a sunny, fall day. This area, oft-ignored by tourists, was once known as a centre of Greek Orthodoxy in Istanbul


here is no denying that shutterbugs will find an abundance of photo opportunities around the city. Whether your preference is for landscapes, architecture or street photography, Yedikule, located in the Fatih district is rich fodder. The neighbourhood, meaning seven fortresses in English seems like a contradiction in terms, as on one side of the walls you have well-maintained gardens and landscaping, yet on the other side you see the ground razed for new construction as the growing population of the city butts up against sixteen centuries of fortification. Departing from the Kazliรงeล me Marmaray station, and crossing the busy 10.Yil Cd. you are brought directly underneath the shadow of the walls. Unfortunately, much of the walls and the fortress are blocked off for renovation or are


LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD in disrepair. To our delight, we saw plots of bostans - urban gardens - along the western side of the walls. The practice of urban farming has been a way of life for centuries here, and unfortunately, the growing population of the city has meant an increasing threat to the farmers who tend these plots. Recently, more attention to preserving these traditional farms and vegetation has been given, and in early June, visitors can attend the annual Yedikule Lettuce Festival to experience the history and output from these gardens. After exploring the walls, we landed on Imrahor Ilyasbey Cd., which is the main artery through Yedikule. On the surface, it seems like a fairly unremarkable street, but as we started to navigate the side streets, we started to look up and noticed the older houses and intricate details on the facades. Our stomachs were growling and we were in search of a café for tea. We passed the 130-year old Safa Meyhanesi, which to our chagrin was closed for lunch, but for a true meyhane style meal, this old taverna is highly recommended.

Further down the road, we stopped in a firin and grabbed some fresh, baked goods and as we turned the corner to Imam Asir Sk., came across the dilapidate Ilyas Bey Cami, which used to be the St John of Stoudios Monastery, built in the 5th century A.D. Supposedly, the inhabitants of the monastery were from the order of Akoimati, “sleepless ones”

called so because they prayed in shifts throughout the day. After a stop in a tea garden, we continued down the street and saw not one, but two churches, one on the same street. Unfortunately for us, most of the churches are locked during the week, and only open during certain days and times, but we were able to catch a view of some of the steeples. As we started to wander, the group found much to their amazement, that the neighbourhood was peppered with many more churches than revealed on a city map. As children were starting to get out of school and their parents and family were out and about, we started to get noticed with our cameras, and schoolchildren starting mugging for us, which was very amusing.

We found our way back to Imrahor Ilyasbey Cd. so that we could see Aya Konstantino Greek Orthodox church, but as before, the gatekeeper wouldn’t let us in as the Patriarch is only there on Friday mornings. Not wanting to retrace our steps, we continued down the road in search of the next discovery, and we ended up in neighbouring Samatya, in an old Greek fishing village. I was told that many movies and shows are filmed here, and you can see why since the area we were in is so picturesque. There are many fish restaurants to choose from, but if you want kebabs, then Develi is the place to go. After lunch, it was time for us to depart, but the walk through the neighbourhood was a revelation, and we are looking forward to returning to walk the rest of the walls at a later date!





FINDING THE RIGHT STUFF Istanbul is a crafter’s paradise if you know where to look! Catherine Salter Bayar leads the way


t dinner the other night, a friend realised she was sharing a meal with three voracious knitters. As we launched into a discussion about the latest projects on our needles, leading to the challenges of crafters and artisans earning a living from what we make, she commented as an aside to me, "But don't you eventually have enough things to wear?"

Of course, we love something new, especially when we can claim the pride of having made it ourselves. And most knitters like me probably have closets stuffed with far too many scarves and sweaters that we’ve kept for nostalgic reasons, when they really should be given away, or unravelled. But her question missed the point of why we make. It’s not just about having more ‘stuff’. I’ve been thinking since that evening that a better response than a shrug and a smile to our friend, who happens to be a remarkably knowledgeable librarian, would have been: ‘Are there ever enough books to read?’ Then perhaps she’d understand our compulsion. Though it’s not a perfect analogy, sitting down to read a novel or to make something by hand – and knitting is only one example of so many options for artisans - captures the same attention, works my brain in similar new ways. Both activities take me into other worlds to explore. Makers – and readers – are compelled to spend time doing what we love. Those of us who have both ‘addictions’ understand how they often coexist and even battle for space, creating the necessity for even more stash boxes or bookshelves. These pursuits evolve out of curiosity to see where a yarn leads. A need to express and understand patterns and plots, to connect threads of a new process into a cohesive whole, to translate an idea to tangible form. Another benefit is the calming of mind, the focus and meditation both endeavours bring. Istanbul is a challenging city in which to live, but a relatively easy one for minds and hands eager to find a wide variety of materials with which to make something new. I live and work near the Grand Bazaar to be near the many shops tucked in the hans and lanes between Gedik Paşa Mahalle to the south, and Tahtakale in Eminönü to the north, that cater to artisans. Whatever jewellers, leather workers, quilters, ceramicists, felters, weavers, knitters and crocheters need, almost everything can be found, and often at low prices. On the south side of the tram road from the Grand Bazaar, between Beyazit and Çemberlitaş, lies the wholesale shoe district. Most shops showcase inexpensive casual and sport shoes, peppered with some amazingly over the top high heels, for the domestic, Central/South Asian and Russian markets. The streets here bustle 12+ hours a day with the ‘tink’ of tools, the ‘whump’ of machinery and the rumble of porters’ carts as they race huge heavy loads of shoeboxes down the steep hills – be forewarned! But in between all the frenetic activity are many shops with leather, both real and vegan, as well as supplies for working with them. Though most shops are wholesale only, financial times are such that many will sell smaller amounts to walk-in customers for personal use. Upstairs on Gedik Paşa Cami Sok, Aziz Deri sells a wide variety of fashion and basic hides left over from manufacturing. They are also a sample room, so will help make one-of-a-kind items for those who don’t have industrial sewing machines handy. Down around the corner from Gedik Paşa’s restaurant and bakery row is Barsam, with all the tools to make handmade leather shoes, belts and bags.



Back up the hill north of the tram road is the old chicken market, the Tavuk Pazarı, nestled between the Grand Bazaar proper and Atık Ali Paşa Mosque. The streets surrounding the Yeşil Saray Han offer a wide selection of semi-precious stones, pearls, beads and 925 silver chains and fittings. As in the leather shops, small quantities often can be purchased at retail or even wholesale prices. Check out Seher Kuyumculuk for their diverse selection of lapis, amber and pearls, or ARL for beads and silver charms. More traditional Central Asian Silk Road vintage jewellery bits and pieces are offered at Allahverdi, two shops within the Grand Bazaar. If prices at Tavuk Pazarı shops are a bit out of budget, wander down the maze of streets behind the Mısır Çarşı to the Marpuçcular Han. This multi-floor building houses jewellery makings, trims and inexpensive readymade items. Nearby on same Sabuncu Hanı Sk is the Sabuncu Han, no longer selling much soap, but now the place to find fabric paints, stencils, markers, pens and everything for block printing. ÜÇ-ER Kirtasiye here is one such shop, but there are several worth a browse. For quilters and sewers, the Bursa Pazarı is perfect for finding inexpensive (2+ meters wide) rolls of 100% cotton muslin, in about 30 colours. Ask to see the colour card, as they only display what’s currently in fashion for home décor in the local market. Kamer Yazma is down a narrow alley across from the Büyük Valide Han, a wonderful place for lightweight 100% cotton voile in 60 colours and two widths. Their brightly coloured yazma prints update Ottoman florals and geometrics into modern use.

I must confess I visit the Kürkçü Han on Mahmutpaşa Ykş at least once a week for my knitwear work, but really just to get a fix of more yarn. This ancient two-level courtyard structure, originally for craft guilds curing leathers and furs, is always stuffed full of local ladies in search of the basic synthetic yarns of Turkish home crochet. Increasingly, stalls are full of cheap home textiles for the gelin. But looking beyond those, and the infringement of neo-Ottoman bridal wear, circle the upper floor of small shops stuffed to the rafters with leftovers from knitting factories and yarn manufacturers. Though these days some of the shops look like crafting retail establishments anywhere, the most intriguing are like a treasure hunt, cubbyholes with spools of unbranded fibre in every shade and texture, collected by older gentlemen who have connections throughout the Turkish textile and fashion manufacturing world. Plenty of 100% cottons, raffia, chunky wools, and rolls of jersey ‘yarn’ – a great use of excess t-shirt stock from the fast fashion factories – as well as buttons, batting, trims and even bag handles. I have a favourite yarn, spun together by a wonderful colourist and knitwear designer named Inese who visits Istanbul every year to stock up, at prices at about a tenth of the cost it would be in European retail shops. Inese buys as many as 50 shades of mohair, the Turkish tiftik from Angora goats, spun in Turkey for mainly Italian manufacturers, with first quality remnant spools sold in the Kürkçü Han. In her skilled hands, the mohair winds with thin cotton and silk fibres to become a unique yarn that shifts colour in combinations inspired by nature, reading the terrain that surrounds her workshop in rural Latvia. As I knit, her yarn tells the story of a hike in the woods, or a walk along the seaside. Her work is just one example of the benefits of searching the hans of Eminönü for the right stuff. Ultimately, the best reason to handmake is to give gifts to those you love and appreciate. It’s also heart-warming to support those who make. I’ll be interviewing the work of local artisans for LALE in the New Year. With the holiday season approaching, I hope you’ll join us Sunday, December 10 for the Handmade Istanbul Market at the Saint Helena Chapel, Tepebaşı Beyoğlu. RESOURCES: Aziz Deri Mİmar Hayrettin Mh, Gedik Paşa Cami Sk 15/C Barsam Mİmar Hayrettin Mh, Balipasa Yokuşu Sk 4/C Seher Kuyumculuk Molla Fenai Mh, Bileyciler Sk 27/24 ARL Molla Fenai Mh, Mesih Mehmet Paşa Sk 9 Allahverdi Kapalı Çarşı Kavaflar Sk 53 Marpuçcular Han At the corner of Marpuccular Cd and Sabuncu Hanı Sk ÜÇ-ER Kirtasiye Sabuncu Hanı Sk, Sabuncu Han 5 Bursa Pazarı Sultanhamam Meydanı, Dagoglu Han Bodrum Kat 1-8 Kamer Yazma Taya Hatun Mh, Çakmakçılar Yokuşu 58 Kürkçü Han Mahmutpaşa Ykş Inese Catherine Salter Bayar owns a design workshop and cafe in old city Istanbul for handcrafted fiber arts, predominantly rugs and knit goods that truly represent Turkish heritage. Visit Facebook at bazaar.bayar to connect with Catherine, or learn more about her business.




YOGA FOR EVERYONE Though yoga is more than 5,000 years old, this ancient practice has seen a surge in popularity in the last several years. Given all the health benefits, it is safe to assume yoga is not merely a trend, but here to stay. Caitlin Diebler writes about its past, present and choosing the right practice for you


oga can be traced back over 5,000 years ago to ancient India. The word ‘yoga’ derives from Sanskrit, meaning ‘union’. Conceptually, yoga means uniting body, mind and spirit. Sometime between 200 B.C. and 200 A.D., a man named Patanjali created several philosophical doctrines and guidelines, including the widely known eight limbs of yoga. Most forms of yoga in the west are simply a practice of just one of those limbs, Asana. The third limb, Asana has come to refer to the practice of all the physical yoga postures. The physical repertoire of yoga was initially developed as a preparation or bridge into meditation. The goal was to expend physical strength and stamina, fashioning the body into the necessary stillness for meditation practice.


The theory and practice of yoga was passed down orally, like a game of telephone. Many yogis would adhere to a mentor, spending years observing and practicing their adviser. The pupils would later branch off on their own, taking pieces of their mentor’s yoga, but eventually creating their own style. It wasn’t until the mid-1950s that the West was influenced by the wave of these so called, yoga pioneers. Numerous yoga masters came to the United States and other western countries and began teaching yoga. Styles evolved and adapted to the taste of the mainstream crowd. Some westerners were so inclined to travel and learn yoga in the East. American Richard Hittleman studied in India with Hindu sage Ramana Maharshi, but returned to the states

LALE FITNESS offering a non-religious yoga for the American demographic, punctuating its physical benefits. Yoga gurus began to make their mark. Almost all current styles of yoga have been influenced in one way or another by B.K.S. Iyengar and his accentuation of precision and alignment in asana poses. The west coast of The States owes much of their yoga establishment to the Baptiste family. Countless other trailblazing yogis, such as Indra Devi and Pattabhi Joins are of utmost importance to today’s yoga. They are the propellers of the myriad yoga styles that the Western world practices today. In modern times, the most popular practiced styles of yoga can be classified under the umbrella of Hatha yoga. Hatha is simply a practice of physical yoga postures. The physical postures of Hatha were greatly influenced by the gymnastics of the British empire and their occupation of India in the 1900s. Hatha yoga also emphasizes the importance of Pranayama, or breath, which is another limb of Patanjali’s yoga sutras. Bringing attention to the breath during practice helps to narrow mental focus in the moment. What I love about today’s yoga is that it’s open for interpretation. It can be whatever you want it to be. Yoga is not a religion and you don’t need to become vegan, bend like a pretzel or adapt to a particular lifestyle. I come from a movement background so for me, yoga is about learning to be present in movement. It’s the practice of awareness in motion. Yoga can be an intense physical working, but it can also be a place to find stillness and introspection. The asana postures require control and strength in the body while simultaneously balancing steadiness of the mind and benevolence of the spirit. The accentuation of pranayama is to build heat and energy in the body while giving the mind a task to focus on. In just the past few years, yoga has become one of the hottest trends, and it isn’t just because of the yoga pant epidemic. Physicians are now even prescribing yoga therapy and recognizing a regular yoga practice as a clinically viable treatment for certain ailments. Health Benefits of a regular yoga practice according to the Yoga Journal: • Builds muscle strength, improves flexibility and balance • Perfects posture and protects your spine • Prevents cartilage and joint breakdown and betters your bone health • Increases blood flow and boosts immunity • Improves digestion • Stimulates and improves brain function, helps you focus • Increases body awareness and confidence • Ups your heart rate and drops your blood pressure • Lowers cortisol and blood sugar levels • Relaxes your nervous system and promote better sleep • Reduces levels of the stress hormone cortisol While almost everyone acknowledges yoga has its benefits, many wonder “which type of yoga is right for me?” Every style of yoga is not necessarily beneficial for every individual. It’s important to narrow down what you’re looking to take away from your practice. This is a list of several more popular yoga styles, although there are many more.

Ashtanga – Ashtanga classes consist of six series (or groups) that hold a set sequence of postures. The poses are always in the same order. The class is smooth, flowing from one posture to the next without stopping. Bikram – This is thought of as the original hot yoga class. If you like predictability, this is for you. The class is the same no matter where you go, 90 minutes of twenty-six postures in a 105F (40.6C) degree room, with humidity at 40%. Vinyasa – influenced greatly by Ashtanga, vinyasa flows from one movement to the next without stopping. The class consists of a blend of yoga postures that link breath to movement. A fast paced vinyasa class can be a sufficient cardiovascular workout. Power Yoga – Most gyms host this more vigorous, vinyasastyle yoga. The class has no set series and the teacher is free to create sequences and posture orders. Yin Yoga – a slower paced class with postures that are generally held anywhere from two to five minutes, longer than in any other style of yoga. Yin Yoga is the best type of yoga to increase deep flexibility as the muscles and connective tissue (tendons, fascia and ligaments) are gently stretched. Restorative – a slow gentle and relaxing style of yoga, typically adding an array of props such as, blocks, straps and blankets with the goal of completely letting go mentally. Prenatal Yoga – helps build stamina and strength needed during pregnancy and can help relieve muscle tension held in hips, back and shoulders. It’s important to address there is no quintessential way to practice yoga. Your experience could be greatly dependent on the teacher, style or studio. If you have had a dissatisfactory experience, try a new style or studio. If you had a favourable experience, adventuring to other teachers may bring even more pleasure. Try out these foreigner-friendly local studios. Cihangir Yoga and YogaSala have multiple locations throughout the city and even offer some classes in English. Cihangir Yoga has three locations in Istanbul, Istinye, Cihangir and Caddebostan. They offer more than 250 classes per week with a tagline is “yoga for everyone”. They prove this true with a beginner class called Cihangir Yoga 1, where many students have their first experience with yoga. You’ll learn proper alignment of yoga postures, traditional breathing techniques and a time of meditation. Cihangir Yoga 2, Cihangir Yoga 3 and Cihangir Yoga Advanced, Meditation, Yoga Therapy, Yin Yoga and Prenatal Yoga are also among the classes offered at the three studio locations. Fun Fact: Cihangir Yoga is the only point where Lululemon products are officially sold in Turkey. YogaSala means ‘home or abode of yoga’ in Sanskrit. The studio opened in 2001 as the first yoga studio in Turkey. strives to create a space where in the chaos of Istanbul, you can escape the city madness and practice yoga here. With Istanbul locations in Nisantasi, Etiler and on Bagdat Caddesi, you can choose from 200 classes a week, several offered in English. Your first class is free!



1 I loved doing my yoga flow in these cute pants and top. Thank you Chikirina for sponsoring this functional and stylish outfit! Visit for information about how to shop this brand designed for ‘life on the move.’ Try this 10-minute yoga flow, with signature asana poses. Start in child’s pose, move into downward facing dog, crescent lunge, warrior two, extended side angle, reverse warrior, triangle, back to warrior two before flowing through chaturanga dandasana and repeating on the other side.

How: From child’s pose, send your hips back and up, creating a V-shape with your body. Align your heels behind your ankles and step your feet hip distance apart. Place a small bend in your knees if you need to, and work your heels toward the ground. Place your hands shoulder width distance and bring your gaze back between your thighs.

Go through the entire sequence twice, holding each pose for three to five breaths.



Why: Strengthens and lengthens the muscles of the entire backline of the body, including the shoulder girdle, back, hamstrings and calves.



How: Bend and stack your front knee over your ankle. Spin your back heel down with your knee pointed in the same direction as your toes. Reach your arms in opposite directions and bring your gaze forward. Draw your tailbone down and lift your chest, squaring it to the side. Stack your shoulders over your hips and draw your shoulder blades down your back.

How: From down dog, bring one leg forward in between your hands into a low lunge. Reach your arms up overhead and rotate your palms towards one another. Stack your front knee over your ankle and lift and press through your back heel. Keep your hips square, draw your tailbone down and lift your chest up. Relax your shoulder blades down your back.

Why: Strengthens your leg muscles. Stretches and opens your hips and chest.

Why: Great stretch for the legs, groin and opening of the hip flexors. Challenges balance.




How: From Warrior Two, keep your lower body strong as it is. Tick tock your hands to twelve and six o’clock. Press your lower hand into the inside of your knee. Engage your obliques to avoid resting your torso on your thigh. Draw your gaze upward. Why: Leg muscles are strengthened by supporting your weight. Tones the abdominals by continuously drawing your body upward. Provides a deep stretch for your groin and hamstrings.




How: Straighten your front leg. Shift your hips back and reach your torso forward. Lengthen your spine as you tick tock your hands to six and twelve o’clock. Extend through your arms and bring your gaze up. Draw your ribs in and engage your obliques to keep your chest lifted. Why: Strengthens legs and muscles around the knee and ankle joints. Stretches the waistline and opens the side hip and chest. Tones abdominals, obliques and back muscles.


Sources: Caitlin Diebler RYT (Registered Yoga Teacher) Power Pilates Certified Basi Pilates

How: From Extended Side Angle Pose, keep the bend in your front knee as you take your bottom arm up and back, your gaze follows. The opposite arm falls gently down your back leg. Why: Strengthens large leg muscles. Stretches and opens the entire side body: legs, groin, hips, sides of the torso, and waist. Challenges balance.

Caitlin grew up moving. With a background in dance and gymnastics, she was a cheerleader for the Buckeyes and studied at The Ohio State University. Caitlin met Jon, her college sweetheart there and they got married after graduation and have been living abroad in Greece and Turkey for almost seven years. Jon currently plays professional basketball for Beşiktaş in Istanbul. Caitlin teaches yoga and pilates, loves to read, write, cook and travel. She is available for private lessons or classes. Email: Instagram: caitlindiebler






recently met up with Daffa Konaté and the cosy Le Cuistot café in Ferahevler in Tarabya, where she is currently exhibiting the work of Congolese artist Serge Mienandi. In the background, you could hear French being spoken, and with the colourful art on the walls, a beautifully-crafted leather box from the Touareg, and mouth-watering food from Morocco, and savoury pastries, I felt like I was transported out of Istanbul into another world. Konaté is becoming a common presence in the Istanbul art scene, and you could say, is a cultural ambassador, influencing a more positive understanding and impression of the African diaspora through the promotion of African art and artists. I spoke to her about how she made the transition from the world of NGOs to being a virtual gallery owner, and her plans for the future Daffa Konaté is a globe trotting businesswoman, born in Paris to a Malian father and Senegalese mother. A new work opportunity for her husband brought her family to Istanbul, where they have lived for the past two years. Having previously worked in NGOs in the field of development, she was in a new city, and couldn’t work. “When I arrived in Istanbul, I decided to work on my own projects. Before arriving in Istanbul, I was working in NGOs, in the field of development. I wanted to continue in this field, but focus in another direction. I didn’t want to talk about war, poverty. It was important to show Africa in a more interesting, positive and more dynamic way. For me, culture is part of development. This is how the idea came about, with an eye on African art”, Konaté explained of her decision to focus on arts promotion. It all started with a trip to Dakar, Senegal in December of 2015. She visited Village des Arts, a famous art complex where some of Senegal’s up-and-coming painters, sculptors and multimedia artists create and display their works. “When I entered that space, I was amazed – it was so calm, so zen. I really liked the atmosphere, and that day I knew that I wanted to share this with others”, Konaté said. She spoke to three painters who decided they wanted to work with her. Even though she told them she was just starting out, they trusted her immediately. One of these artists is Serge Mienandi whose work can be seen at Le Cuistot studio in Ferahevler. After she started communicating about her project and her intentions to highlight African artists, she now has many painters approaching her – she doesn’t have to approach them. For someone whose background was in the NGO field, becoming an entrepreneur, virtual gallery owner and running

your own business seems like a big leap to take. Luckily, she already had some connections in the art community, and she knew what she wanted and focused on achieving her goal. “I had training for six months, which helped me to build the business, and follow it step-by-step. I arrived in Istanbul in August 2015, and started my training in November 2015, and finished it in April 2016. After I finished my program, I spent the next six months from April 2016-November 2016 meeting artists, interviewing many of them, and featuring them on my blog. So, every week, I had interviews with different artists, and this helped me build my network. I had my first showcase December 15, 2016. It helps when you speak to people and meet them, and they introduce you to others”, Konaté noted. She is a one-woman show, and despite navigating a different field in a city that she is relatively new to, she is enjoying the challenge of building her business and learning about the business of art. “For the paintings, the deal is that the artists loan me the painting. The painter sets the price, and sometimes I can discuss whether I think the price is high or low. Additionally, there are specialists who appraise the value of artwork, so I am also learning about pricing. When I sell a piece, I take a percentage that is negotiated”, Konaté explained. Her other project is organising showcases or pop-up stores where she sells accessories, crafts and jewellery, and artwork for, also featuring handiwork from artists in Africa. For these events, she purchases them herself, and then sells them to customers. About managing her business, Konaté said, “Sometimes it is difficult to handle everything because it is very new for me. Before Istanbul, I was working in NGOs, so the entrepreneurial spirit is very different, but I really like it very much, and I have a coach who helps me (IWI Business



member, Tara Lutman Agacayak)”. Luckily, she has found a welcoming and interested audience for her projects. “When I approach the artists, my proposition to them was to find a place to expose their painting and artwork. So I try to work with a gallery or restaurant. Her objective is to have two events per month, and she has managed to meet that goal, not only in Istanbul, but also in Paris. “At first, I was concentrating on organising events just in Istanbul, so I didn’t expect it to happen, but I have a lot of projects in Paris now”, she said. Since last year, many galleries in Paris have been highlighting African culture, so she has been travelling back and forth to Paris quite frequently. Earlier this year, she exhibited three different artists in two galleries in Istanbul – Gama Gallery, and St. Joseph School, which were very successful. Looking ahead, Konaté has a busy schedule, and couldn’t be more excited about it. Her intent is to mix it up and showcase different items and handicrafts for each event she holds. In November, she will have small bronze sculptures - and that will be the first time she will be bringing these items to Istanbul. She will go to Senegal in December and bring back different fabrics and materials for sale. Next March, she will collaborate for an exhibit


with photographer Noemie Deveaux, who was featured in the last issue. And, she is continuing to meet more people and in the future would like to collaborate with others to expose more artists from different countries. “I like to create events. I love exhibitions, but I also like to combine these with different cultural events such as a performance with musicians and dancers. I know a few African authors, and it would be great to do something with them. I also know two Africans chefs in Paris, and it would be nice to create an event with them showcasing regional cuisines. There are a lot of ideas, and we will see what happens!” As with many expats to Istanbul, how long you may remain, or where you will end up next is always at the back of your mind. For the time being, Konaté will remain in Istanbul for at least several more years, and that pleases her. But of course, there is the chance that she could move again, and the idea when she started training, was that she needed to build a business that could follow her wherever she went. For people who are looking to start their own venture, it is another inspiring story of how people can switch fields and harnessing their passions and building relationships, create something that is their own.

Konaté’s next Istanbul show is coming up on 7 -8 of December 2017. For more information about this and other upcoming events and to view her virtual gallery of art for sale, you can find her at the following: Facebook: @art.kelen Instagram: art_kelen Website:

Ä°stanbul / Toronto Come explore with us!





The Doma hotel has a colourful history to match its colourful owners. Çiğdem Duysal spoke to sisters Ioanna Koutsoudakis and Irena Valyraki about the hotel on a recent trip to Chania, Crete


t took us three trips to Crete to finally discover one of Chania’s best kept secrets: The Doma Hotel. To call The Doma a hotel would not do it justice. It is located on one of the most elegant corners of Crete. It’s a hotel, but it’s also museum, a natural sanctuary, and mostly, it’s a home away from home. This is due to the unmatched hospitality of sisters Ioanna Koutsoudakis and Irena Valyraki, who jointly own the hotel. Part of their childhood was spent in this building, so they have vivid memories of this graceful property. The Doma feels like a living history of Crete, and those with a keen eye will notice the walls of the Doma are adorned with intricate details of Cretan history. There are numerous framed photographs that are carefully displayed along the corridors and breakfast room. These photographs are not only of the Koutsoudakis family, but also of the former British Consulate and the occupants of that era. On a recent fall afternoon, sisters Ioanna and Irena shared a bit of their personal history which is deeply linked to this very special property. Ioanna and Irena are both strong women, fluent in a multitude of languages, and have various titles and degrees between them. Ioanna studied at Rome's Academy of Fine Arts. She is fluent in Greek, French, Italian and English. She spent much of her entire life travelling the world. If there’s one word to capture the essence of her spirit, it’s ‘fearless’. When asked about the memorable stories of her numerous journeys, two stories quickly came to mind. During her trip to Cambodia, a local woman stopped her on the street and asked her if she’d buy a handmade


hat. It was for a child. Realising the mother was making these to support her children, Ioanna immediately bought two. The next morning, there were 10 other women at her doorstep, all with beautiful handmade hats to sell. That was the beginning of her decision to collect children’s hats from all over the world. Today, her collection stands proudly at the Benaki Museum in Athens, where over half her collection is on display. The rest of the amazing cultural collection are pleasantly displayed in the lobby area of the Doma hotel. The second memory Ioanna shared pertained to an emotional encounter in Istanbul. By the 1960’s she was running a fashion design and textile business in Athens. On a business trip to Istanbul, she went to the Grand Bazaar to purchase Turkish kilims and textiles. When the owner of the shop found out she would be staying at a local hotel on her own, he insisted on taking her to meet his family, and be a guest in their home. Though she had just met this man, she could tell that he had a gentle soul, and felt it would be rude to decline, so she hesitantly accepted. “The house was extremely simple, and the dinner was equally simple, but this was one of the most memorable trips of my life”, Ionanna began. “It turned out that this man was a Mevlevi dervish, and though we both didn’t’ speak each other’s language, over the years, he continued to call me just to ask, ‘OK?’ and when I said ‘OK’ he would simply hang up.” She bows her head and closes her eyes as she reminisces on her time with this dervish. Her mannerism exudes an unspoken respect for this man, a humble experience between two humans connected without boundaries.

Of the two sisters, Irena is more softspoken, but once you get to know her, she opens up with a deep knowledge of literature, history and the world culture. The Doma has a beautiful library collection in the lobby, opposite the children’s hat display. Irena cites her favorite book as Joseph Roth: What I Saw: Reports from Berlin, 1920-1933. She has a gentle soul that exudes love, and perhaps it is an extension of the happy 45-year marriage she had to a dentist. Through their demeanour, style of dress, and manners, both sisters have the confident air of a Greek goddess combined with the elegant grace of royalty. Getting to know them is one of the many privileges of being a guest at the Doma. The Doma hotel’s grand façade faces one of Chania’s most picturesque beaches allowing guests the delight of observing sun rises behind the hotel, flushing the beach and islands in a golden hue and admiring the painted

LALE INTERVIEW sky as the sun sets directly across from the hotel. There aren't many hotels in the world like the Doma, the century-old establishment gracing the waterfront in Halepa. Her façade has a pair of perfectly curved steps, leading up to a grandiose door with iron details. There are sculptures and marble objets d’art perfectly placed in the entrance garden. Once you are in the building, you will be pleasantly surprised with the beauty of the lobby area. The receptionist will greet you with freshly squeezed lemonade, all served on a silver tray with just the right linens to make you feel pampered. If you are looking for a hotel to relax, perhaps read/write, or be close enough to where the action is without the hustle and bustle of staying in the middle of it, this is your spot in Chania. The current grace of this building belies the turbulence that it’s been through. The history of Doma is quite interesting. Built in the late 19th century as the consulate of the Austro-Hungarian empire, the current Doma Hotel was like all consulates in Chania, located in the affluent seaside suburb of Halepa. As WWI redrew the map of Europe, Crete was unified with Greece in 1918, and the building was put up for sale. In 1933, Ioanna and Irena’s grandmother, Ms. Irini purchased the consulate and its extensive grounds. She had a vision for her family, however the sisters' time in their childhood home would be cut short due to the imminent war. In 1940, the British Consul in Chania persuaded their father Kyriakos Koutsoudakis to lease the house to the British government. Hitler was marching through Europe, and was an ever-increasing threat for Crete. They had a great arrangement, for a year the family lived with the consul and his staff. However, when Crete was invaded in May 1941 – the family immediately moved out. Ioanna still remembers vividly the day the soldiers “fell” from the sky. The very next day, their father took the family to the village of Elos, in the mountains. When Chania fell on 27 May the victorious German paratroops took over the British Consulate to use as their command center. Ioanna and Rena's home would be occupied by the Germans for the next four years. "We came back soon after the invasion", says Ioanna, ‘but our house was occupied by strangers”.

control until 9 May 1945. The German surrender of the town would be the final act of World War II in Europe. It was 10 years later that the house was finally returned to Ioanna and Irena’s family again, and soon after, Ioanna came up to re-fit the home into a hotel. She had witnessed Italian families who had transformed their homes into guesthouses, and she was inspired to do the same with the Doma. In December 1971, the Doma Hotel was ready to welcome guests, and so it did, with celebrities, politicians, artists, and dignitaries all lining up to be among the first guests. Word of mouth spread quick, and soon the Doma was the ‘place to be’, a getaway from Athens, and a cultural beacon where it was important to mingle with the other guests, and be seen. Ioanna, who was running a fabric design business in Athens was instrumental in making fashionable details happen in the Doma. Its reputation as one of the most elegant and distinguished hotels in Greece grew steadily. Most guests establish an annual pilgrimage to the Doma Hotel. One of Ioanna and Irena's favourites was the celebrated Italian writer Antonio Tabucchi, who became a lifelong friend. He later dedicated a chapter in one of his books to one of the sisters. On any given week, guests at the Doma still include authors, artists, movie stars and intellects from all over the world. Beyond its powerful history, the breakfast room overlooking the rugged bay in front of the hotel makes it one of the most memorable dining experiences in Crete. The breakfast has received many accolades, as the homemade jams are made by Ioanna herself, using only the freshest lemons, oranges and strawberries. The local pastries and breads are purchased daily by Irena, who is full of ‘secret’ locations for just the right ingredients,

including an unmatched lemon pie. Fresh Greek yogurt, honey, fruits and nuts are all part of the Cretan breakfast that are beautifully presented in crystal bowls, silver platters and inscribed porcelains. The crisp linen tablecloths add a finishing touch, making the dining experience an exquisite one. For the past 40 years, the Doma was only open between April and November, and Ioanna and Rena returned to their Kolonaki apartment in Athens, to spend winter in the city. The Benaki Museum and other cultural institutes often request Ioanna to have cultural guest lectures at the museum. However, this year, the elegant owners of the Doma will spend the winter in Chania, keeping the property active with their gracious hospitality and ever-so wonderful presence. Perhaps this may be a signal that the Doma will delight its visitors all year round again. One can only hope so. To read more about her trip to Crete, see Çiğdem’s article on page 38. Çiğdem Duysal is an international economist. After years in the private sector, she shifted gears and joined Stanford University’s Writing program. Her books include Girl with the Pink Suitcase, The Life of Kaya Tuncer: Making the American Dream Come True. Currently, she is working on her third novel and teaching online creative writing classes

For most of the occupation the Koutsoudakis family lived nearby the Doma. Chania was under Nazi





The 21st edition of the Istanbul Theatre Festival will take place between 13 and 26 November 2017. The festival will once again offer theatregoers an extensive programme, featuring a range of plays, dance shows and performances from Turkey and abroad, as well as side events


tarting with 2017, Istanbul Theatre Festival returns to an annual cycle after 15 years of being held biennially. The festival is familiar with raising its curtains once a year, as it was the case from its initiation by İKSV in 1989 until 2002. Istanbul Theatre Festival will once again enrich Istanbul's cultural life with its wide programme of international and local theatre and dance performances and events every year, however this time, in November. The 21st Istanbul Theatre Festival will present a total of 55 performances by 19 theatre and dance ensembles – 6 from abroad and 13 from Turkey – in 18 different venues. The festival programme also features a number of events including panels, film screenings, master classes and workshops with the participation of international guests and experts.


The 21st Istanbul Theatre Festival hosts 6 theatre and dance ensembles from abroad. The festival audience will meet with the play Encore, the final chapter of the trilogy which started with Alarme and continued with Amor staged by the Attis Theatre, founded and directed by the legendary Theodoros Terzopoulos. The French choreographer Angelin Preljocaj, who will receive the Honorary Award this year, will also meet the audience with his latest work La Fresque. Shakespeare’s immortal play Richard III will bring theatre lovers together with the interpretation of Thomas Ostermeier. The festival programme also includes the Italian immersive theatre ensemble TPO’s Farfalle, which invites audiences of all ages to see the world through the eyes of the butterflies, Porteguese director Pedro Penim’s Before,a performance that travels back in time, and Seuls an emotionally charged play by Lebanese-Canadian playwright and director Wajdi Mouawadabout his search for himself.


Twelve plays from Turkey will have their premieres at the festival. The first one will be Checkhov’s The Seagulldirected by one of the remarkable directors of Turkey’s contemporary theatre stage Serdar Biliş with the production of Pürtelaş Tiyatro. The 21st Istanbul Theatre Festival programme also includes the B Planıproduction Home, written and directed by Sami Berat Marçalı, The Dinner, adapted from the novel with the same title by Herman Koch under the direction of Volkan M. Sarıöz and staged by Semaver Kumpanya, I Love You Turkey, written by Ceren Ercan from Bakırköy Municipality Theatre and directed by Yelda Baskın, and The Tempest, directed by Kemal Aydoğan, who likes to play around with Shakespeare.


LALE THEATRE The festival programme includes The Collaborator by DasDas Sahne written by the Swiss playwright Friedrich Dürrenmatt and directed by the theatre master Ahmet Mümtaz Taylan, Migraaaants directed by another master Genco Erkal and referring to the most urgent issue of the era, When In Rome, staged by Galata Perform’s brand new project Yeni Metin Yeni Tiyatro, and a Şermola Performans’ production Panopticon, designed and directed by Mirza Metin, a successful name of new generation theatre who aims to explore the possibilities of the body in his works. Contemporary dance artist Canan Yücel Pekicten and her concept and choreography in All About The Heart, tell the story of three female characters who have been the subject of three different operas; whereas Taldans, a contemporary dance duo concentrating their work on the relationship of body, sound and rhythm, bring the first Russian futurist opera Victory Over the Sun together with the festival audience.

classes and workshops with the participation of international guests and experts. The living legend of the ancient Greek theatre, the founder and director of the Attis Theatre, Theodoros Terzopoulos will meet with the audience in a panel entitled The Actor in the Era of Globalization as well as another panel where his book The Return of Dionysos will be introduced. While the director’s play Encore, as the last part of a trilogy, will be staged at the festival, the audience will have a chance to see the screenings of the first two plays of the trilogy Alarme and Amor.

A profound and silent master of the human darkness of Turkish literature, Nahid Sirri Örik’s never-before-staged play Betrayal will meet the audience for the first time, directed by Özen Yula and staged by Ankara State Theatre. The boundless dream of nine-year-old Gökhan Kızıklı, the winner of the contest “A Dream, A Play, organised by Zorlu Holding, is being staged with the title Carton City, under the adaptation of Serdar Saatman, direction of Gaye Cankaya directing and production of Zorlu Children’s Theatre.


The festival programme also features a number of free of charge events including panels, film screenings, master

The side events also include the staging of Acts of Goodness written by the Swedish director and playwright Mattias Andersson and directed by Yiğit Özşener at the festival as a reading theatre, as well as workshops by the dance and performance artist Tuğçe Tuna, the Swedish director, dramaturge and musician Johan Petri and the Association of Theatre Critics in Turkey. The festival will also feature film screenings of Blanche Neige with Angelin Preljocaj’s contemporary interpretation and Oliver Assayas’ documentary Eldorado/Preljocaj, which chronicles the rehearsal process of Preljocaj’s Eldorado. Other side events of the festival are a master class with the founder of Studio Oyuncuları (The Studio Players) Şahika Tekand and a panel titled “Arts and Culture for Children in Turkey and Europe.”


The 21st Istanbul Theatre Festival will host its professional guests on two different occasions. The first meeting will be on 16-19 November, in collaboration with the Corner in the World x bomontiada ALT. A number of theatre professionals from abroad will attend a showcase of the festival programme with the support of ONDA (Office National de Diffusion Artistique) from France. The second professional meeting and showcase programme will be held on 23-26 November within the scope of the festival. Tickets will be available for purchase or delivery at İKSV (10.30–18.00) and via following sales channels: BILETIX retail centres BILETIX Call Centre (216) 556 98 00 For more information, visit


It is now possible to be free from breast cancer with early diagnostics!


Even though the rate of cancer is decreasing in the Western countries, deaths by cancer increase as a result of the industrialism. Breast cancer is one of the most common types of cancers in the world. However it is possible to be free from this nightmare of women with the help of early diagnosis! General Surgery Specialist Prof. Dr. Cihan Uras who is the President of the Breast Health Center of Acıbadem Maslak Hospital says that “It is imperative for women who are over 40 years old to have a mammography even though there are no symptoms". Prof. Dr. Cihan Uras pointed out that October is "the Month of Breast Cancer Awareness" and emphasized that every woman should know whether they carry a risk of breast cancer and to what extent.

Breast cancer is one of the most common types of cancers in the world. One in every 8 women who live up to the age of 80 meets the breast cancer in any period of their lives in United States of America. Breast cancer is also the most commonly seen cancer type in women in our country, could now be seen in the young women also! General Surgery Specialist Prof. Dr. Cihan Uras who is the President of the Breast Health Center of Acıbadem Maslak Hospital stated that early diagnostics and regular controls are very important in breast cancer and said that “It is possible to be free from the breast cancer completely. Because the same treatment used to be applied for everyone, but now there is tailor made treatment. Even so, there is a special treatment just for the tumor type of that



particular person". Prof. Dr. Uras emphasizes that people who look healthy and who have no risk factors in their families too should enter the scanning programs and says that every woman should know how big a risk she carries in relation to the breast cancer. The women located in the high risk group should enter the scanning programs in earlier periods. With the help of the scanning programs, diagnosis in breast cancer could be had easily and women can be free of this disease.

Self-exam after the age of 20! Each year thousands of women lose their lives due to breast cancer and most of these deaths are caused by late diagnose. Breast cancer is completely treated when it is diagnosed at an early stage as a result of the regular breast inspections. As well as every woman examine themselves once a month after the age of 20, doctor's examination and some other scanning inspections have a great deal of importance in early diagnosis. Prof. Dr. Uras who provided information about special tests which women should undergo, said that “even though the frequency of examination could change based on the risk factors carried by the woman, every woman after the age of 20 should go to a breast examination by a physician who is an expert in breasts in every 1-3 years and every year after the age of 40". Ultrasonography is a method which enables to have images with the help of the sound waves. There is no radiation risk and side effects in Ultrasound. Also, no pain is felt during the procedure. Examination of the breast via ultrasound is suggested for the young women who have a dense breast tissue. Because milk producing tissue of the breast is larger (breast is denser) for young woman, the success of the mammography in detecting the cancer is low. Also mammography could be risky for young women since their breast tissue is more sensitive to radiation. With ultrasound little cancer focuses which could not be seen in mammography due to them being covered by the breast tissue, could be detected easier. Ultrasound is the first preferred method when the evaluation of a breast symptom is needed for the women who are pregnant, breastfeeding and under the age of 35 years old. Because there is no risk of radiation. It can also be used as a method for scanning for all the women who are under the age of 40 who carry the risk of breast cancer. For the people with high risk, mammography is sometimes needed to be added to the scanning.

You may not have any complaints

While breast cancer is becoming increasingly common in our country, this disease which has a very high rate of death if it can not be diagnosed early, could be treated succesfully. The most important method which enables the early diagnostics of breast cancer is mammographic scanning. Some patients have complaints like lumps in the breast and armpits and leaking from the nipples but some patients do not have these complaints at all. In this situation breast cancer could only be detected by mammography inspection. However especially for the women with dense breast tissue, mammography should be used together with ultrasound. With this method the precision could go over 90 percent. Lots of women worry about the radiation exposed during the mammography; however the dose of radiation for this application is very low. The dose of radiation a person is exposed in normal conditions in three months or during a long flight is equal to the radiation exposed during the mammography. This dosage is even lower in the digital mammography. Even though there are no symptoms it is suggested that all women over the age of 40 should do a mammographic scanning regularly in every 1 or 2 years.




LIVING LA VIDA MOCHA! Beşiktaş was buzzing this fall, as the Istanbul Coffee Festival turned four this year!


or centuries, Turkey has essentially been a tea culture, in fact, a lot like Britain. As a British expat, I relish in this familiarity, but to be honest I am a coffee-whisperer. After a year of cafe-hopping around Istanbul, strolling around all the famous coffee hubs in Karakoy and Kadikoy, it was time for the Istanbul Coffee Festival.

Did you know that is the fourth year that the festival has taken place? It was hosted in the Galata Greek School and moved on to Haydarpaşa Terminal to end up in the Küçük Çiftlik Park for two years in a row now. From the 21-24 of September, visitors were strolling around coffee stalls, sampling some of the finest blends from around the world, chatting with coffee experts and baristas, popping in and out of workshops learning about the beans, the roasting, the grinding, the combinations. I got my Willy Wonka half-day ticket for 35TL and I was instantly sucked into the maze of caffeine. All the blends you could hope for and smiling faces inviting you to taste their new inventions. What struck me most in those four days were the ice cream espresso shots. ‘Nice creation’, I thought. And it is as simple as it sounds; espresso shots with a blob of white ice cream, or as I call it, ‘a sweet rush’. Friends were sitting on poufs on the grass in front of prefab stages, chatting, laughing, sipping the blends, tasting goodies and waiting for the concerts to start. There were plenty of games to play with your friends too. I saw a group playing darts and some other friends standing on a stage with a quirky background, jumping on one another, pretending to fly, posing in all sorts of quirky ways for that perfect shot. Bottom line; They were having a blast! One of the stands was inviting visitors to experiment. Make your own coffee cocktails for an extra 30 TL. Further down a man caught my attention as he was pounding away at the coffee beans in dripping sweat, dressed in traditional Turkish village wear! He could have been a character from pirates of the Caribbean. But still he made sense. What didn't make much sense was a Brazilian dancer in traditional costume greeting visitors and taking pics with them at one of the stands. Purely a teaser for the visitors. Seminars, workshops, secret sharing and delving into a world of caffeine delight! For the strong stomachs, I would


suggest the glass coffee brewers. The extracted coffee is way stronger. To give you an idea, not even a sip was drunk, and it felt like an adrenaline jolt to last a week. And they are not hard to find. I came across them among others at Ministry of Coffee (MOC) and Walters. Walters, based on the American television series Breaking Bad put on quite the show around their stand, mixing dry ice in beakers and served in smoking plastic coffee cups. At first, I thought it was some kind of strange mix with coffee. Then I realized it was just a gimmick.


Fun fact of the day: Although I am a coffee lover and track down all the good coffee shops wherever I go, I realised I didn't know much about the coffee beans. Did you know that there are two main methods of coffee bean production? The Dry Method and the Wet Method! Well, I was blissfully unaware. I was also surprised to know that in using the Dry Method all moisture must be oozed out of the beans until they contain below 11% moisture!

is currently an English Instructor at Beykent University, writing her first book called Beyond Kara Sevda and working on her new blog which will be launched shortly.

After tasting different blends and attending my short coffee bean lessons, I strolled down to the goodies but came by Koza Gida and their mouth-watering hot chocolate in three different versions; strawberry, milk and dark chocolate. It was, by far, the best hot chocolate I have ever tasted. Now I have to squeeze in the time to visit them in Seyrantepe. As I turned my head, I saw Faber Castell was there too. My first reaction was ‘what are they doing here’? They make pencil stuff. But, yes, they had set up a prefab wall and you could write on it with your friends, or spend time decorating coffee mugs with a selection of their finest bright colours. It was fantastic for the kids. Wherever I looked there were all the major players in the field; Nero, Tchibo, Arzum Moka, Walters, Selamlique, Pasabahce, Montag, Starbucks, Eti Karam, Godiva. It was simply an amazing get together! In the end, I sat down at the cocktail tables at the Ipanema Stand chatting to a Greek Barista. I told him that I had been searching for Freddo cappuccino, a kind of iced cappuccino I tasted in Greece. In the process we became friends and he invited me down to Beşiktaş, to his newly opened coffee shop. Let's see - I hope he makes me that forever-longed Freddo cappuccino! Christina Koch has worn many professional hats; that of a teacher, an event manager, a communication professional, a sales executive, but she likes to call herself a storyteller. She




POP IN TO A POP-UP DINNER Bon vivant Kay Redrup is the mastermind behind Pop-Up Istanbul – a private dinner party that changes theme every time you go. If your palate and social calendar seek a dash of excitement, Redrup’s lively meals are sure to leave a lasting impression


ay Redrup is doing something exciting within the Istanbul dining scene; she draws inspiration from her many far-flung treks around the world and brings highly-sought after international cuisine with a dash of popular culture, to an international audience hungry and homesick for flavours both familiar and exotic. Rather than having to stick to the rigours of a typical restaurant’s schedule, food critics and fleeting food trends – she brings to a date and location of choice, and has the creative license to select the theme and the menu.

Eventually, her father decided to return to England to practice law, and that’s how she ended up there. “Many years later, in 1986, I came to Istanbul, and I knew nothing about Turkey, and that made it more exciting. I travelled the country for about three weeks and Turkey surprised me. Only when I returned did I realise how special it was. I started to do a lot of research on Turkey, became fascinated by its history, and in my research, got in touch with Noel Barber who wrote Tanamera. At the time, he was thinking of writing a book about historical women of the Ottoman Empire. He was focusing on one particular Sultana, who was the wife of Ibrahim I. He agreed for me to go to Istanbul and do research on her for three months. Though I had no intention of living here permanently, when I like a place, I like to get a feel for it and immerse myself. So, I gave up my job and I ended up in Istanbul”. After the summer she returned to England and several years later, she decided she wanted to change her life. In 1991, she left her job and got a job for the agents for Warner Brothers, working in Turkey. “I wanted to leave after the second day, but gave myself six months to give it a try. I stayed because I have difficulty going back on things – once I’m down one road, I don’t mind going off the road, but have difficulty turning around and going backwards. I think that is why I didn’t go back. Three years after arriving here I got pregnant and the rest is history”.

She hosts dinners at a fast clip and the guest slots fill up almost as soon as she announces the date and the menu. If you don’t act quickly, you’ll find yourself on the sidelines while your friends enjoy a memorable meal. To get a taste of what the dinners are like, Redrup’s formative years offers some insight. Originally, born and brought up in Singapore, she and her sister spent their youth between summers in Singapore and boarding school in England. At some point down the road, she was asked to leave the boarding school. “What can I tell you? It was a convent. I was difficult to control; I had discovered my voice and if there were things I thought were wrong, and I said so. I started to make other people think outside the box, and I think that disturbed them”, Redrup said of the school’s administration. “I went then to live in Singapore with my father, and he put me into the International School, because I could no longer be assimilated into the Singaporean National school system because I was so outspoken and rebellious. They were the only school that could deal with me because they could understand what I wanted, who I was, and students were more able to experiment with their own thoughts and creativity”, she added.


She talked about living in Istanbul in the early years, juggling work and being a single mother. Among her jobs, she was a personal shopper for wealthy tourists coming to Istanbul, she worked for the Marmara Hotel for a period of time, and also taught. “With kids, you can’t do a full-time job unless you have the support, and I didn’t have the support. Once my son was born, it was only ever possible to work part-time. I was doing whatever I could that would allow me a part-time job”. Eventually, she opened a restaurant which she ran for four years before she decided to close it down, and keep the catering business on the side. In 2013, the Gezi Park protests happened – just as all her summer work was starting. “That killed all my summer work, nobody could leave the area, and we were being gassed all the time. My business collapsed because of the events at the time. So I had to rethink what I was doing, and somebody asked ‘have you looked at pop-up dinners happening in England?’ I researched it and saw that they were having these dinners because of the recession.

LALE GOURMET Restaurants were closing down, and people were renting space for a night or two weeks to see what it would be like to be a restauranteur”. In her research, she discovered that some people were also doing the pop-up dinners at home. “At the same time, I used to have a lot of parties at my house and enjoyed them – financially they were crippling, so I thought I have to make it so that I am not crippled by this, but I could still enjoy the party. As a host, you spend most of your time in the kitchen, so I thought, what is the difference if I open it up to strangers? I get to meet other people, so that was how it started”. The inaugural pop-up dinner was in November 2013. It was a Thai menu, that she catered for 12 people. She filled her tables by approaching people she knew and posting the event on Internations, and the night was a success. Since then, she has had over 70 dinners, which usually take place twice a month, based on her availability. It goes quiet over the summer season because people are away, it is hot and people don’t want to be inside. They usually start back up around September. The evening typically starts around 8:30pm. People open their drinks, and she usually start serving food when three-quarters of the people have arrived. She aims for 9:00pm service — not so much that if someone is late, they miss out, it is that they disrupt the flow. Although Redrup does everything from menu planning, shopping, prepping and cooking herself, she does have ‘elves’ in the kitchens who are all volunteers, and they get food and wine. Her son is usually there to help, and he does the main door introductions. At the end of the evening, she comes out and sits with people and many times they’ve seen the sunrise on the party. “Everyone’s barriers are down, and everyone is sharing the most intimate facts about themselves, mentally, emotionally, physically. No one is judgmental, but everyone shows shock. There is a lot of laughter and fun, and then it goes on. As people leave, there are always one or two that stay.” Falling back on her restaurant training, the concept was so well-thought out, that she didn’t have to change many things about the format of the evening. She discovered early on that there were certain guidelines that had to be observed in order for her guests to fully enjoy the experience. For example, someone pointed out that people would bring their own drink, only to have them

siphoned off by other people. So, she established Pop-Up Etiquette where you consume only what you bring. If you want to share that is fine, but don’t assume what is out is for the taking. It was a major issue that disgruntled people, but was quickly resolved. Redrup is a natural extrovert and conversationalist, and a trademark of these dinners is a personal story at the end of dinner service. “I remember during one pop-up, I was tired, and decided not to give a story. I didn’t know why, and as people left, they said, ‘we were waiting for the story!’ I was shocked! So, whether people like it or not, we always go with a story. At each Pop-Up, I think of a story, but it isn’t necessarily the one I tell. When I see the people there and get a feel for the atmosphere, I decide how far I can push with a story, or whether to change it or if I should alter the length of it. Sometimes you get it wrong, but hopefully you get it more right than wrong”. Redrup’s sense of adventure are her flexibility are keys to the success of this endeavour. “I am not precious about my kitchen or asking for help. If someone asks to cook, I am happy to hand over to someone else who is more skilful than I am – it takes the pressure off me. The whole thing with the Pop-Up is that I push myself to the edge every time. If I did dangerous sports, I would be a race car driver! I put this menu down that is all in my head and I look at it and think this is not possible….but yeah, I go for it! It is madness, and you don’t know how it will all come together, but to date, it always has. It would be very easy for me to go to a past pop-up and say, oh this was successful, let’s do Thai again with these recipes. That is too safe and too dull for me. I often do things that I have never done before, and I do it on the night of the event! That is why I like the pop-up concept”.

“My intention with these dinners is that it would become what it is today. I hoped that one day I would fill the room with two tables of 16. I have more than 16, but basically, I hoped I wouldn’t have to call around friends to see if they were free. That people would come to meet other people – to find new friends, to come alone to a place and not feel uncomfortable because you are alone, and to me, it has achieved all of those things. I love that when I sit with a group of people and they start asking how they know each other and everyone says ‘through Pop-Up!’ it is a fantastic feeling because I think I have brought all these people together, and they have gone on to meet outside together or become travel buddies. We even had a couple that got married! There is a continuous movement of people who come through and she may never see again because they are travellers and they are in Istanbul for a weekend. Redrup has met a lot of people through it which she likes. There have been offshoots, and it has given people a certain bravery to do things for themselves. She mentioned that one member is doing wine tastings and puts on a spread, and talks them through some wines, and her initial tasting was at Redrup’s place. “I like that people come and say they felt so much at home – it is such a great accolade. That’s all I want is for people to feel at home, to feel comfortable”. “Every year, I hope it continues, and I know that so far the format works. Recently I was asked, why don’t I expand or go back into the restaurant business. It is not about the food – it is a lesser part of the experience. The food helps because you won’t come if the food is not nice, but, I think it is more about meeting people. Some things you may not like or go how you imagined, but overall, if your experience has been good, that’s fabulous”. A recent idea that has been percolating with her is to put together a ‘Best of Pop-Up’ which would include recipes and photos, either on YouTube or in a book form. While this busy host doesn’t have the energy or time to lead it herself, she would love to be part of that project for anyone who might be interested in taking it on! For more information on Pop-Up Istanbul and upcoming events, visit Facebook If you are a member of Internations, you can visit their calendar to learn about upcoming dinners as well







ook Club 2 always welcomes new members. Many of our members, like those of IWI itself, are in Istanbul on a temporary basis, so there is a lot of flux. We now have a core of longtermers, but are hoping for a larger group. As a rule, we meet on the third Tuesday of each month, September through June, at 10:30 in the morning, usually at a Levent area cafe or bakery or occasionally at a member's house or elsewhere. What kind of books do we read? The answer is all kinds. The booklist gives some idea of the variety of setting and of genre. We try to include some books on Turkish subjects (Midnight at the Pera Palace, for example) or by Turkish authors (Orhan Pamuk, Elif Şafak, Ahmet Ümit, and Ayşe Külin are the ones we have read so far). In June we read a collection of writings by/about the US Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg. For September, we read two novels and a book of short stories: The Year of the Runaways by Sunjeev Sahota deals with a group of Indians working illegally in England; Yaa Gyasi's Homegoing traces the descendants of two branches of a slave family; Mia Alvar in In the Country introduces us to Filipinos living abroad. October's selection was The Cuckoo's Calling, a detective story by Robert Galbraith, aka J.K. Rowling. For November we are reading Born a Crime, the memoirs of Trevor Noah, whose crime was that he was born of a black mother and a white Swiss father in apartheid South Africa. Our final book for 2017 is Forty Autumns, again a memoir about a family divided by the Berlin Wall. We are particularly excited by this book because Nina Willner, its author, is a member of our club and will lead the discussion through Skype. Anyone wishing to join the club or to just to check us out should get in touch with Mary Akgüner at





Of all the mythical figures through history, Medusa stands prominent – having influenced great works of art, architecture, design and literature. Who is Medusa, and why does she still resonate with us today?


t’s a familiar trope – the scorned, crazed, jealous (insert negative characteristic here) woman – likened to a Medusa figure. Whether in fiction or seen played out in current events, the more visible women become, the more people feel threatened by her power and presence and feel emboldened to devalue, silence, and strike her down. This archetype is evoked as a way of minimising women’s power and ambition and reducing them to a caricature. However, over time, there have been many interpretations of Medusa that have emerged and invite further examination. Enter Gillian Alban whose research and writing are creating a dialogue that extends beyond this narrow viewpoint of the Medusa woman as monstrous and petrifying, to include a spectrum of attributes from maternal to redemptive. She recently authored her second book, The Medusa Gaze in Contemporary Women’s Fiction, and spent time with us, digging into this iconic figure. Alban is an accomplished academic who hails from England and has been living in Turkey since the 1970s. Having left an incomplete graduate degree from Oxford University’s Linacre College, she eventually returned to university and received two Masters degrees and her PhD. She published her first book, Melusine Serpent Goddess and then got into University teaching where she has been for some time. She has recently published her second book, called The Medusa Gaze, which offers insights into the desires and frustrations of women through the narratives of selected contemporary novelists. The book explores the various Medusa roles of women in modern and contemporary fiction. Alban focuses on writings and considers the situation of contemporary,

modern women, and their interactions. Over time some recurring patterns on tensions and negative relationships started to emerge in the literature she was reading, and she kept coming back to this concept of Medusa. It is greatly referred to in literature, though it is not always called Medusa, it may be called reflection or symbiosis. Sartre calls it Medusa, Lacan calls it the Mirror Gaze, and Alban pulls it all together as it seems to be a reality of people’s lives. To start, who is Medusa? While there are many variations of the story, the one that persists is the account by Ovid that Medusa was a great beauty, raped by Poseidon in Athena’s temple. Who was punished? Of course, not the guilty person, but the victim. For the crime of defiling the temple, Athena gave Medusa snakes for hair, so that anyone who gazed directly at her would be turned to stone. Later, Medusa’s head was severed and presented to Athena. As we see, there is a symbiosis between Athena, the goddess of wisdom, who takes the head of Medusa, puts her on her shield and destroys her enemies with this deadly force. They are alter egos – two sides of the same coin. Athena is perhaps perceived as the more positive side of the two. However, images of Medusa are pervasive in architecture, specifically on the temple of Artemis in Corfu, where she is depicted as goddess, deflecting negative rays with her powerful gaze.

then is that these pairs are seeing each other in their mirror distorted reflections and they are struggling. One is on top, then the other one is on top. It starts with one victimising the other, and then the situation gets reversed, so I started to see that pattern and I started to see the Medusa Gaze as power. Although she was given snake hair which is regarded as a form of punishment, I regard it as a form of power, so Athena gave her a back-handed compliment. Although she was beheaded which

“I am passionately feminist and interested in relationships between women, and between men and women. When men write about women, they are usually very obtuse. So, for me, women writers get to the heart of the experience, and thus I am largely driven towards women writers. The power of Medusa – specifically, the gaze – started to crop up in my writings. It was the power relationships between people that I found I was honing in on. At the same time, I was bringing up daughters who were fighting with each other, fighting with me, and I dug up an article that I had read more than 10 years ago where it describes a situation with two siblings, or two cousins, or two friends who are constantly fighting. There is a love-hate relationships – a symbiosis taking place. What I found way back

was the end of her life, she still had the power of the petrifying gaze”. As Alban started to put her writings together and observed the interaction between women sometimes women and men, where there is this power exercise through this gaze, she realised she had the makings of a book. The book is broken down into six mirroring pair chapters. In the first two chapters, she is looking at the Medusa gaze, which is generally known to be petrifying, maybe destructive, maybe empowering depending on what side of the power structure you are on. The central chapter of the book examine the view of the mother as monstrous, because this is the psychoanalytical view of Freud, and other male contemporaries. Alban tackles these theories and deconstructs them as


LALE BOOKS narrowminded and old-fashioned. In the last two chapters, she addresses the gaze as a protective force, and one that deflects and reflects back power - like the Turkish evil eye. With so many contemporary writers to analyse, Alban focused her references to nine female writers whose works exemplify the Medusa Gaze. Iris Murdoch bases her writings on the work of Jean Sartre, and uses the Medusa concept throughout. Jean Rhys depicts a perfect mirror imaging concept in her book The Wide Saragasso Sea between two girls who are friends/ enemies. Antoinette’s home has been set on fire, and as she is being thrown out of her home, she runs to her friend Tia, the little black girl. and Tia throws a stone at her, and Jean Rhys is aware of this mirror image, and at this moment, Antoinette experiences whether it is tear or blood running down her face – and sees the same thing on her friend/ enemy’s face, who weeps for her as she drives her out. And she says it was if they were looking at each other in the mirror. Sylvia Plath has a famous poem called Medusa, which depicts the monstrous mother trope and in the Bell Jar, she looks at these mirroring reflections. In Angela Carter, Alban found a great source of inspiration, as she untangles fairy tales, and many stories of very powerful women. Margaret Atwood’s Cat’s Eye, was the initial inspiration of this work, with the mirroring relationship and symbiosis between two friends/ so-called enemies. Toni Morrison, doesn’t use the term Medusa, but her characters use the gaze, or they are subject to it. Similarly in A.S. Byatt’s The Game, she shows a symbiosis between characters through sibling rivalry. “What I prove in the first two chapters is that the Medusa Gaze passing between women may destroy, may make the other person go mad, may make the person commit suicide. When I saw that theme coming together, I thought ‘wow, this is powerful’. Sometimes women work through the gaze to a good relationship, but it is largely about power relationships. It can be scary, but not necessarily deadly. Sometimes people find themselves under this gaze and can be destroyed by it – it could be narcissistic, hostile or even friendly”. In the middle chapters, Alban uses a psychoanalytical approach, and Freud’s theories on females and mothers are introduced and then deconstructed. He saw the Medusa mother as monstrous. “So I started to look at that


perception. There is a certain amount of monstrosity, especially in the Western world, because the mother is in a position of power, although she can lose it. To me it seems a big exaggeration – is the mother really monstrous, or has that been put upon her? In my research, I do find a spectrum. For example, you have Medea from Greek mythology, who is portrayed as a destructive mother – she kills her children in order to take revenge on her husband Jason, who left her for another woman. In contemporary fiction, you have Sethe from Toni Morrison’s Beloved who kills her daughter in order to save her from a life of slavery. Not every mother is murdering her daughter, but I go into the background of why she acts this way. Of course, you also have benign and nurturing mothers as well”. In the last two sections, they mirror each other, and one is monstrous (women going crazy, jealousy, clashing with each other, rage) and on the other side, the apotropaic power of turning the gaze back on others. Think of the evil eye in Turkey or other cultures around the world. And it turns back the hostile gaze and that is a protective force. You have the Medusa as an icon – and she is saving anybody who is appealing to her. So this is the Temple of Corfu, the redemptive Medusa. That’s the final pair. She is the evil eye on the temple, saving anyone who appears to her. Alban acknowledged that academic writing tends to be highly theoretical and dense and with this book, hopes to reach other audiences. “I properly back myself up with theoretical discussion, but I don't want to block anyone out with theoretical language. I wanted to

speak to the intelligent reader, who reads literature across the generations, and embrace those who might be outside academia”. For such a multi-layered subject, the book is a very accessible and portable read at 263 pages. And before anyone ever reads a word of the book, the striking cover draws you in and invites you to study and dissect the powerful imagery. That brings us to how Alban and American-born artist Meg Dreyer met and decided to collaborate. It was a book club through a common friend, when the dynamic duo of Gillian M.E. Alban and Meg Dreyer first met. “Meg had brought out some wonderful collage pictures she had created for a children’s book, and it sort of simmered, and I thought – hey I want Meg to do my cover! So we started talking and I thought Meg was an artist, but realised she has many skills, and came in on the editing of the book, creating illustrations, and designing my website”, Alban recalled. In fact, the multi-talented Dreyer is a photographer, film maker, animator, illustrator, and designer almost became a medical doctor before realising it was a bad fit for her. Fast-forward through receiving a Master of Fine Arts, working in several different design firms and being the in-house designer for the Atlanta Botanical Gardens, she arrived in Turkey in 2014 after being awarded a Fulbright grant to do independent design research. “I was really interested in pattern, not only as visual culture, but how people assimilate pattern into their lives. Is it important to a culture who has produced so much pattern over the centuries through rugs, tile,

LALE BOOKS metal work, and what does that mean in terms of how people navigate every-day life? I started by examining Ottoman patterns, and doing street photography, and I made a video of people enacting every day rituals and when I finished my Fulbright grant, I still had a lot of work I wanted to do, and decided I wanted to stay, and I never looked back. So, in three years, I have found my way to a really vibrant creative community and have made connections with people for the purpose of collaboration. I’m really excited to be here at the moment”, she said. When something is done well, the observer takes for granted how much blood sweat and tears go into the final product. To really appreciate the time and effort involved in the finishing touches of the book, you have to go behind the scenes to understand Dreyer’s approach. “The project grew organically. We had to edit the manuscript first, then I started to design the book and in the course of that process, Gillian asked me to contribute some illustrations. It wasn’t until the book had been designed and illustrations finished that I knew what I wanted to do with the cover. There is so much you can say about Medusa. What Gillian’s book is doing is deconstructing it and showing facets of it, exploring it from many different angles. It reminded me of cubism — how form is deconstructed and sliced and reflected and shown to you in facets and shards, so my inspiration was Picasso.” “My technique is cut-paper collage. I basically chop up a lot of magazines, glue everything together then I scan it into the computer, add a background in this case. ”When Gillian first saw it, she didn’t say anything for five minutes and then called her husband in, who liked it”, Dreyer said. Alban gave Dreyer carte blanche on the cover. “I had this mirror image in my mind – this concept of somebody looking in the mirror and reflected back. She went away for the summer – it turned out very different and of course, it is brilliant”, Alban added. From idea to execution, it took Dreyer about two weeks to make the image, and another 10 days to finalise it with the background. In the process, they bumped up against the publishing house’s house style, fought some wars, and retreated from others. She joked “it’s like laws and sausages!”, meaning you don’t want to know how either are made. “In the end, I am really happy with it, and usually, I’m not happy when

I see my book finalised and printed”, she commented. With a measured pause, Dreyer added, “I’m a real perfectionist, and I never thought I would be able to collaborate with someone. I found the work that I have done with Gillian, and the relationship we have built really fulfilling and richly rewarding, and I couldn’t even tell you how we did it. I’ve learned

Gillian M.E. Alban engages with women in her literary analyses, exploring the theme of mythic women as it emerges in contemporary literature. Her publications include Melusine the Serpent Goddess in A.S. Byatt’s Possession and in Mythology. She has elaborated her insights though a lifetime of enjoying the study and teaching of literature in Istanbul, where she lives and works You can read more about Gillian by visiting her website Meg Dreyer is a photographer, film maker, animator, illustrator, and designer, originally from the United States. She came to Istanbul in 2014 on a Fulbright grant, and has remained in Istanbul because she discovered a robust creative community here that encompasses a rich variety of art and design practices, from traditional crafts to new media. Currently she is designing an app just for Istanbulites that foretells the future. She designs books, posters and invitations, logos, corporate identity systems and web sites for clients in and outside Turkey.

a lot on how to work fast, and how to take queues from suggestions that may have come from a dropped phrase in a conversation that all of a sudden I’ve been able to build into an idea, and it has really freed me up. I’m really excited to collaborate with Gillian and others, and have high hopes for the future”.

Her work is available on her web site, Her Fulbright research site is Gillian Alban and Meg Dreyer

Alban concurred, “It worked out in many more ways than one. We started with the idea of art, moved into editorial work, came back to the art and the website. I was almost saying to Meg ‘you are going to have to be my manager because I am a literatute expert in my field. I use the computer because I have to, but I’m not technological. There are all sorts of things I can’t do, and it has really worked out very well. It has been exciting to be able to make this project all together”. Bouncing off of each other, Dreyer concluded with, “I’ve seen you grow in the process. You were so protective of your writing. What you make is your baby, and you are trying to protect it from people who are trying to mess it up. I saw you grow to trust me, to take more risks, and transformed into this Medusa figure, letting your hair down”.







If the coming winter is sending chills down your spine, you can warm yourself with a southern getaway to the Greek island of Crete. Çiğdem Duysal visited this historic locale


t’s good to know that summer lingers a bit longer in Crete for those seeking a mild break from the winter months in Turkey. Being the southernmost Greek Island, Crete is the perfect year-round getaway spot from Istanbul. Chania is Crete’s second largest city and perhaps the most charming, as the historic former capital is steeped in a magical combination of Minoan, Venetian, Ottoman and Greek history. The beauty of Crete lies in the combination of its diverse history and its unique natural topography. Cretans respect nature tremendously and it shows. Some say little has changed from decades ago, when local author, Nikos Kazantzakis, published Zorba the Greek. The beach, close to Chania International Airport, where scenes of the aforementioned movie were taken, is as pristine and wonderful as it was 70 years ago. Cretans would rather preserve their island’s nature than reap financial gains by installing new buildings and tourist traps. Coexisting with nature is what makes this island so special. Chania is located almost 100 miles (a four-hour drive) west of the island’s capital, Heraklion. To get your bearings, it’s essential to first visit the Old Town. The remnants of the old Venetian walls define the perimeter of the inner core of the city leading to the old Venetian harbour and lighthouse. Take the time to walk to either end of the harbour where you will find cafés and bars that are frequented mostly by locals. Have a frappé and take a moment to soak in all the history. The Venetian and Ottoman architecture, together with the Minoan ruins will inspire you. Stroll down Kaneavarou Street and walk towards Agios Nikolaous. You will find yourself right at Splanzia Square, the heart of the


former Turkish quarter. There are many cafés and restaurants overlooking this mystical square. Agios Nikolaous stands proud over this square, welcoming all faiths with its longstanding minaret and church bell tower flanking each side of its façade. A bookstore overlooking this square has a substantial selection in many languages, and is worth a stop. After you’ve lit a candle in Agios Nikolaous, allow yourself to get lost in the narrow streets and alleys of Old Town. There is something

LALE TRAVEL magical and mystical around each corner. Give yourself ample time to discover your own gems of Chania. The best time to visit the Old Town is either at the beginning or end of the day, particularly given the odd hours of shopping. Check the schedules before planning your day. The mid-part of the day is best spent at any of the excellent museums, beaches, and wineries in the vicinity. The beaches of Chania are often featured in global best beach lists, for good reason. They are pristine, and unique. Elafonissi Beach is known for its pink sand, due to the orange coral reef off the shore. Though the drive is rigorous, it is well worth it. Falassarna Beach, on the west coast is equally picturesque. There are daily boat trips to Gramvousa & Balos beach. Check ferry times, as it’s advised to take the boat rather than to drive. If you don’t want to venture far, there are ample options within ten minutes from Old Town. Chrsi Akti Beach is the beach locals go to, and they are extremely hush-hush about it. It’s a 10-minute drive, or you can take a public bus. There are a couple of tavernas right on the beach, including SeaHorse café, where you can have a Greek salad, sandwich, local beer on tap, or your favourite Greek coffee. Six euros is all you need to rent two lounge chairs and an umbrella for the entire day. There are showers and changing facilities, earning the beach it’s Greek “well organised beach” title.

unexplored with many secluded beaches, impressive gorges and traditional villages. If you stay longer than a week in Chania, these areas should be on your to-do list.


Cretans have lived in harmony with nature for centuries. The reward of this lifestyle lead to Crete sharing a reputation with Okinawa and Sicily for having the most centenarians in the world. Life expectancy is directly correlated with diet, and most of the famous Cretan dishes originate in Chania. There are 11 varieties of Cretan grapes that are currently being cultivated for organic wines (Lyrarakis and Manousakis Wineries), many of the olive trees in the region are over 1,000 years old, and there are over 3,000 aromatic plants and herbs that grow in Crete. Many of the endemic herbs have been known since the ancient times for their medicinal properties. Cretan tea, which may include a combination of mountain sage and dittany, can be found at most local cafés and stores. When you arrive at the Venetian Harbour, make sure to bypass all the tourist trap restaurants that are sprinkled along the promenade. The authentic restaurants and cafes are mostly located on either far end of the harbour. It’s important to dine with the locals in Chania. Some outstanding options include: Chania Gulf has numerous clean beaches right in the city. If you choose a hotel in Halepa, you can literally swim right in front of your hotel. A pair of peninsulas protects the bay: Rodhopou is to the west, and Akrotiri to the east, close to the airport. The Akrotiri peninsula is home to the “Zorba the Greek” beach, along with recently discovered Sheitan beach. The northern coast of Crete is popular with locals and tourists, while the inland and southern coasts remain mostly

Chrisostomos If you are going to only have one meal in Chania, this is the place to go. They offer authentic Cretan food using a wood-burning oven, locally-sourced meats, cheese and produce; this is truly a gastronomical treat. Fresh bread, a cheese dip and olive oil are immediately brought to each table. Ask the owner about the authentic Cretan dishes, particularly the lamb dishes because nobody knows lamb better than Chrisostomos. They serve choice cuts of lamb


LALE TRAVEL and goat that are raised by his family in Sfakia (high up on the White Mountains behind Chania - Lefka Ori) and the cheese products on the menu are also produced by the family dairy. We were at a loss as to which lamb dish to choose, and we were told that we could order half-portions of each. The lamb tsigariasto, is slowly cooked in a clay pot, results in melt in your mouth pieces of tender lamb. Though Chrisostomos brings a steak knife with all meat orders, there is no reason to ever use it. All the meat dishes are incredibly soft and tender. Other notable dishes include the warm dolmades, stuffed with a rice mixture and served warm with a dollop of yogurt is unlike anything you’ve tasted in Turkey. Also, look for the dishes that are made with the local mizithra cheese, and the ‘boiled wild greens’ of the season, such as Stamnagathi, always served warm with olive oil and lemon. The meal ends on a honey sweet note, with the tavern offering guests a plate of warm Loukoumades and a bottle of local raki. Thalassino Ageri If you are a seafood lover, and seek an aromatic grilled local fish, this is the place to go for a perfect seafood dinner. The formula of this restaurant is simple: grilled fresh fish served in a unique setting — right on a rocky seaside of a deserted ‘tabakhane’. Five years ago, this was a local secret, and quite the find. Today, though the food continues to be just as fresh, most nights, there will be more tourists than locals. If you book your table at the right time, you can watch the sun set right into the ocean horizon, with the silhouette of Chania’s Old Town in the foreground. The owner, Nektarios, is often on site, and will help you choose a fresh fish from the daily catch. He will personally grill it to perfection, and serve it swimming in a tray of olive oil with a side of freshly roast peppers and tomatoes. To Maridaki This centrally-located tavern is famous among locals for their fish and fresh grilled fish. Try a meze or two, and order the house wine carafe. You won’t be disappointed. Though this feels like a mom and pop shop, you still need reservations for dinner, particularly during high season.


If you are looking for lunch or dinner on the run, you can never go wrong with a Souvlaki gyro pita at one of the local shops. Epipodos by Thraka is a good option, but do ask around, they’ll point you to the tastiest one in your vicinity. Gregores This is a local coffee chain that is famous for its’ Bougatsa (breakfast pastry – phyllo stuffed with a sweet cream) and Cretan pies. Bypass the other local chains and seek out Gregores, you will want to bring some of their delicate pastries back home. Other Dining Options There are numerous tavernas with live music. Be adventurous and stop into one. Adespoto is one option. Finally, the highest concentration of restaurants is along Chatzimichali Daliani, away from the waterfront. Take a stroll down the street, and peruse the menus. Chania has an option for every taste and budget.


Manousakis Winery The Manousakis Winery is a short 20-minute scenic drive from Chania, and is worth the trip. The current facilities are the culmination of one man, its founder Theodore Manousakis. Book a light-lunch tasting tour, and enjoy the winery gardens. Our tour guide, Grigoris, was an extremely personable young man, who had a plethora of information


to share about the local varietal grapes, the wines, and the Manousakis heritage. The winery dog, Saxlas, added to the pleasure of spending half a day in the shadows of the White Mountains. Make sure to book your tour in advance.


There are numerous options in Chania, some personal recommendations include: Alcanea Boutique Hotel Ammos Hotel Casa Delfino Doma Hotel Marriott- Domes Norouz Hotel Porto Veneziano

Çiğdem Duysal is an international economist. After years in the private sector, she shifted gears and joined Stanford University’s Writing program. Her books include Girl with the Pink Suitcase, The Life of Kaya Tuncer: Making the American Dream Come True. Currently, she is working on her third novel and teaching online creative writing classes


Turkish Airlines has daily flights from Istanbul to Athens and offers codeshare flights with Aegean Airlines to Chania. The shortest connecting flights takes three-and-a-half hours. Another fun option is an overnight ferry from Athens. The ferry leaves Piraeus daily at 7pm and steams into Souda Bay at 6am the next morning. It is advisable to book the ferry in advance. Renting a car is a must in Chania. Though you won't need a car while visiting the Old Town, all the beaches, and wineries necessitate travelling by car. Chania has an extensive bus schedule, and for those that don't want to drive, getting around is still possible, albeit slow and costlier. If you plan to travel to Crete, and have further questions, contact Çiğdem at:




EUROPEAN CHRISTMAS MARKET TOUR For centuries, Europeans have believed the festive season is something to celebrate. Thus, outdoor Christmas markets are a long-established tradition in Europe, dating back to the 16th century. Catie Funk explored four markets in four different countries


eading up to the holidays, Europeans put their hearts and souls into their local Christmas markets. Public buildings are lost under layers of fairy lights, and wooden market stalls extend through streets of all major cities as Christmas comes to town. They’ve been on my bucket list for a long time. The biggest problem is deciding which markets to visit! So, last December, my husband and I decided to spend Christmas in Southwest Germany. Our research revealed several renowned Christmas markets within a three-hour radius.


Basel is the ideal starting point for a European Christmas adventure. Its well-preserved Old Town glitters with decorated shops. Christmas lights radiate a warm golden glow over the buildings behind. A city of 165,000 people, Basel is located in the corner where Switzerland, France, and Germany meet, and is known as a cultural capital of Europe; it boasts 40 museums!


The 16th-century, red-sandstone Town Hall dominates the medieval old town centred around Marktplatz. The 12thcentury Gothic cathedral offers city views and contains the tomb of the 16th-century Dutch scholar, Erasmus. Being from Izmir, Turkey, we see few Christmas decorations available, and they’re mostly for the New Year. We see some snowmen, lights, and maybe a tree. But the markets in Basel


were packed with beautiful and ornate trees, lights, and decorations. The Christmas fairy-tale forest on the Münsterplatz calls for families (with or without children) to explore this wonderland. Children enjoy various activities such as the star workshop, where they can create Christmas floral decorations, pour candles, make torches, and forge metal objects. Other favourite activities include decorating gingerbread cookies and making your chimney rolls over a campfire, while drinking hot chocolate to stay warm. Christmas in Basel begins when the city's Governing President illuminates Münsterplatz on the first day of the season. Visitors admire the splendid

lights among the hundreds of real Christmas trees at 6:30pm on 23 November 2017, while enjoying rousing musical accompaniment at the opening ceremony.

to enjoy the tradition and spirit of Christmas markets, arts and crafts, and of course, Christmas decorations. Strasbourg established itself as both a warm and welcoming city, with historic squares mixed with modern life. Despite wars, Strasbourg has managed to preserve its varied heritage and is now home to a creative mix of French and German influence. You can see it in the city’s culture and architecture. Sitting near the German border, Strasbourg is also the formal seat of the European Parliament. Visitors can see this UNESCO World Heritage Site's attractions by foot or by boat. With a spire reaching 142 meters high, the Notre-Dame cathedral is seen for miles around. The Petite France Quarter, a haven of peace in the middle of the city, formerly housed fishermen and millers. The German imperial quarter, or Place de la République, dates from the end of the 19th century and is the heart of the more recent European institutions of the "new town".


Saarbrücken, the capital and largest city of the state of Saarland, Germany, is home to the region’s administrative, commercial, and cultural centre.

Over 200 stalls decorate the historic St. Johanner Market Square and the Bahnhofstrasse— the region’s most popular shopping street. Another Christmas market highlight in Saarbrücken is the sensational nine-


Strasbourg is not only the oldest French Christmas market, but also the most popular. It’s known as “The Capital of Christmas". During this famous 'Christkindelsmärik', glittering Christmas lights stretch for hundreds of miles. There are themed events, a giant ice rink, and a famous 100-foot-tall Christmas tree. The Strasbourg Christmas market has happened every year since 1570. Two million travellers flock to Strasbourg

The Strasbourg Christmas Markets will take place on the 24 November — 30 December 2017. On Monday, 25 December and Saturday, 30 December, markets will only be found in the cathedral.


LALE TRAVEL and Renaissance gardens. But Christmas decorations scented with cinnamon and clove and the festive atmosphere lend the historic buildings a greater charm than usual. Local almond mulled wine, hot sugar coated trdelnik (pastry), hot mead, and juicy barbequed klobása (sausages) are found throughout Prague. Old Town Square becomes the main centre of Christmas celebrations, hosting the most popular and largest market.

Brightly decorated wooden huts sell traditional handicrafts: glassware, jewellery, embroidered lace, wooden toys, metalwares, ceramics, scented candles, Christmas tree ornaments, hats, gloves and scarves, and puppets and dolls beautifully dressed in traditional costumes. This market also has a stable, where children can pet sheep, goats, and a donkey.

metre handcrafted Christmas pyramid. Make sure you see the huge Advent wreath and the bell tower, all decorated up for Christmas. And, don't forget to try the local traditional hot punch or a glühwein that will warm up your cold body. A Saarbrucken specialty is the spiked hot chocolate with a sweet mountain of heavy whipped cream floating atop. Father Christmas and his reindeer sleigh hover over the market on a high wire, telling the story of Rudolph the rednosed reindeer (in German), daily at 7pm and every Saturday and Sunday between 2—4 pm as well.


Prague is already an enchanting city to visit with its gothic monasteries, classical music concerts in Baroque cathedrals,


Prague’s next largest market is found under the National Museum, just a five-minute walk from Wenceslas Square. Other markets at Havel's Market, on Charles Square (the largest square in Europe), or near a gem of Art Nouveau

LALE TRAVEL architecture, the Municipal House on Republic Square. Prague did not suffer from bombing during World War II and has maintained its original architectural marvels. In the Old Town Square, the elegant Town Hall tower is home to the world-famous astronomical clock.

You can join a free walking tour or pay to see the city by riverboat. These walks take you through the city's history of a hundred spires, to the heart of the fascinating Jewish Ghetto, shrouded in legend. Go at sunrise to avoid the throngs of crowds enjoying the romantic Charles Bridge. Prague Castle, the symbol of the Czech lands which once seated ancient rulers, is the largest medieval castle in the world. The Prague Christmas markets will open every day from 2 December 2017 — 6 January 2018, including Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year's Day. Every evening at 5:30pm, the lights of the large Christmas tree in the Old Town Square are switched on, a blaze of lights makes a spectacular sight set against Prague's dark gothic skyline.

Getting to Basel Consider flying one way instead of round-trip flights. Flying one way into Basel, Switzerland saved travel time and money. The one-way tickets are around $80USD per person. Our flight from Turkey left in the morning and gave us plenty of time to explore Basel before moving on to France the next morning. Interestingly enough, the Basel Airport isn't even in Switzerland, but instead, resides in neighbouring France! If you would like to follow our route, FlyPegasus, and Turkish Airlines both go Basel Mulhouse Airport in France. From the airport, buy a single bus ticket to downtown Basel in Switzerland, or near your accommodations. From Basel to Strasbourg, France, the train takes a short two hours. Get to the station early because the seats on the train tend to fill up! From Strasbourg, we met some friends and drove the short oneand-a-half-hour drive to Saarbrücken, Germany. Buses and trains are plentiful and availability is frequent if you do not want to drive. The closeness of countries makes for unique cultural and food tour.


Hotels in the town centre come with a high price. Consider using a private rental such as Airbnb instead. The rental usually comes with all you need and usually a kitchen for those who enjoy cooking and coffee in the morning.


The food is one of the best parts about Christmas markets. Try one of the many flavours of sausages and pastries. Most importantly sample the mulled wine or glühwein. When you order your first wine at the markets, a deposit is made for the ceramic mugs. When another mug of wine is ordered, the last mug is exchanged for a new one and you pay only for the refill. When you are ready to leave, return the mug back to

any vendor that sells wine and they will refund your deposit.


Every year each market has new custom-made mugs used for serving hot drinks. Instead of returning your mug for its two- euro deposit, start a small collection of Christmas market mugs! If you are lucky, you can find mugs from previous years. Other than food, we found a small delicate wooden ornament detailed with snowy villages as a small, easy-to-pack souvenir.


Our sole purpose of these visits was to see different Christmas markets in Europe. It made deciding what to do and how to spend our time easy. However, every city has their own historical museums, churches, and other touristy activities if you tire of wine and food. Take time to explore outside the Christmas atmosphere to learn more about the culture and city. Catie Funk is a travel writer, part time language learner, and co-host to The FunkTravels Podcast. Before moving to Izmir with her American husband, Catie coordinated university study abroad programs to multiple international locations, and she has lived five years between Turkey and Afghanistan. She shares her expat lifestyle, local events, and travel with others through her website,, and via social media @funktravels.





Minimalism in essence focuses on quality of life, relationships and experiences. Irene Draisma describes her journey of living more consciously with respect to herself, nature and the universe


et me start with my notebook… Two days ago we came back from a trip to Norway. We went there for a break from the hectic city life in Istanbul, longing for fresh air, and to climb the fjords. Because we were staying in the country and wanted to take as little as possible, we spent our nights in a typical Norwegian hytten (small wooden cabin with bed and table). Between the two of us, we had just one bag for our hiking shoes and one suitcase. As soon as we stepped out of the airport, we were enveloped by space and silence. In Oslo, shops and restaurants are closed on Sundays, and luckily we were invited in our friends home for a ‘who-caneat the-spiciest-food?’ contest, where we had Mexican food with all kinds of hot peppers. No one drank alcohol and we couldn’t go for a drink afterwards. The next day we left for Nesbyen, where unlike Istanbul, where you can find anything you want at every day and hour, everything was closed again because it was Monday. Our next destination was Eidfjord, which we reached by national parks, Vossen (waterfalls) and a private tour through a meteorite park. We visited a hydropowerplant, where Norway gets its electricity from. Of course we made a long hike every day, to end up at the top of a Fjord with a breathtaking view. We travelled further to Gudvangen and did our last big hike and before we reached the snow, we ate raspberries, blueberries and wild strawberries, we saw kettles of goats, walked on a very soft green layer with lots of berries and flowers in it and drank from the waterfalls. On the entire journey, we ended up using just one Turkish clay soap for our hair and body and had packed just enough clothing. Until Bergen we ate yoghurt, nuts and forest fruits for breakfast, and crispy Norwegian chips and some local brewery beer for dinner. For lunch we tried to find some fish, deer or goat (in café’s or outside


barbeques). Then we reached Bergen, which was a culture shock again, because you can find everything, from high quality restaurants to live music and bars, surrounded by nature. People just talk when they need to. Shopping malls are hard to find. Most people drive electric cars with electricity produced in Norway. There is plenty of natural water. We started to whisper on the streets and became quiet in cafés because of the silence. When you dine out, it is often self-service, and alcohol is extremely expensive, similar to everything else you buy there. It was a good minimalistic and rich experience that brought us back to the essence of life. WHY FOCUS ON SIMPLE LIVING I was born in the Netherlands and the Dutch have a reputation for frugality. For a long time, I felt more ashamed than proud of this cultural aspect, which stems from Calvinism. But now that I am living in Istanbul, I start to see the value of this Dutch mentality. For example, Dutch politicians ride their bicycle to work instead of driving a big tinted-windowed car. While many educated and well-to-do families could afford to go on vacation to a luxury hotel and to dine out at restaurants, it is quite common to choose to spend their holiday camping in nature and preparing their own meals. Of course, as we look back in history, this philosophy didn’t start in the Netherlands. We see that the Greek philosopher Diogenes, who originated in Turkey, was already conscious about the inequality in the world and lived his life in a way to confront the society he was part of. He lived without belongings, allegedly slept in a wine barrel, and walked around with a lantern proclaiming to search for one honest man.


Even earlier still, Buddhist teachings revealed how to be in touch with the whole universe, to develop humility, and avoid greed. Another role model for simple living was the Indian freedom fighter Mahatma Gandhi, who dedicated his whole life peacefully striving for equality. He was convinced that fulfilling our own needs through self-reliance allows us to become independent and more powerful. As a means of non-violent protest, he taught people how to weave their own cloth as a way of peacefully boycotting the machine-made British clothing that was flooding the Indian market, and at the same time, helping retain the knowledge and cultural traditions of the citizens. He lived with only the bare necessities, like a bowl to eat from, his glasses, some books and his sandals. Nowadays, but also decades before Minimalism became a fashion statement, you could see its influence as a form of self-expression in art, architecture, living, music, fashion etc. This seems to mean that people want to live more consciously and care more about the environment. On the other hand, we have to watch the movement with a critical eye, as this concept is used by big corporations who are selling it commercially again. You can see its influence in athletic clothing, interior design, food and technological gadgets.

bring more consciousness in my life, to reduce my purchases of food, clothes, other unnecessary things, and to stop eating meat. For one day, I fasted with my friend whose family was fasting for the duration of Ramadan, and was invited to join the iftar with this family afterwards. Just as I was invited, I would like to invite you to join me in an experiment. For the next month, take a note with you, in a way it easily prompts you with the following questions: ‘Do I really need this?’ and ‘What do I really need?’ Try to live according to the answers. Living a more simple life shouldn’t be viewed as a burden, but brings us closer, and increases the quality and awareness in our lives. Irene Draisma MSc. Psychology has a master’s degree in clinical neuropsychology from the Vrije Universiteit in Amsterdam. She has worked as a psychologist in both public and private practice. Prior to moving to Istanbul, she ran her own business, Pscyhologist International NL.

For many years, I have been interested in conscious living and our roles as human beings within the realm of nature. From a practical standpoint, I try to avoid using plastic, use natural cleaning and personal care products, colour my hair with henna instead of synthetic dyes, purchase fewer items, and make my own clothes. Some time ago a woman who was talking about her experiences during Ramadan inspired me to



SPEAKING A COMMON LANGUAGE THROUGH ART American Artist Alexandra Ryan is connecting families with the outdoor through the creative process of art


hen she was a child, Alexandra Ryan grew up in a home where her parents always retold stories of adventures and travels, and encouraged her to play outside and use her free time to explore her interests and hobbies, and to see the world with curiosity and open eyes Over time, she became fascinated by creative writing and storytelling as a means of connecting people around the world. When she finished university she began traveling, working in education and writing about her experiences,

both as part of a collective project and also through her own blogs. As she became more involved with working with children and teaching, she began to realise that art was our common language. Through art she could communicate with kids of any age from any culture in any country. It was through art that we could share our stories and emotions without the use of a common language. Fast forward to today, as a transplant to Istanbul, she instantly found something uniquely special and magnetic in the city, and she was excited about spending time here, and building a life that would bring people together who shared her passion for creativity. In the process, she noticed there weren’t many art programs which connected children of different cultures with one another, or art programs that focused on getting children outdoors. The more she spoke with friends, artists and parents of young children, the more motivated she became to fill that gap. That is where her project with Aloe Vera Art first started to take seed.


“My goal with Aloe Vera Art is to connect with more families around Istanbul. I want to bring children together who are from different cultures, and let them share important parts of themselves and their identities with others. I want them to understand that even in a city as big as Istanbul, there are common links bringing us all together. Creating a community of

MUMS ’N KIDS them. It also creates a space for them to work together, speak with one another, and allow them to create something that they can be proud of. When she prepares for a workshop she always speaks to the parents first about their child’s interests. For the first few sessions she will structure the art on the information provided by the parent, but as her relationships with the children evolves, she allows them to direct each following workshop with their own ideas. If they talk about Egypt and pyramids, then in the next workshop she will focus the activity around this. In her opinion, art is a great vehicle through which to teach and learn, and listening to the artist is the first place to begin. Although Aloe Vera is still in its beginning stages, over the past half year Ryan has watched it grow and blossom into a project that she is very proud of, and in the process, also learn important lessons from her students. When she is teaching art, the appearance of the finished product is never as important as the process.

friendly faces is the best way to feel at home in a foreign country”, Ryan said. She wants to make art accessible to everyone and firmly believes that being creative and artistic is not a talent; it is a way of living. “I want to instil in children that art is everything we do, and everything we see. Children should never be able to define what is good or bad art, and they especially should never say, ‘I can’t do it!’ Or, ‘It doesn't look nice’. Being creative does not mean being able to draw a picture well, or paint a house which looks realistic. Creativity is in the way we interact with our environment, it is the possible changes we imagine and the actions we take to change the world we live in. My goal with Aloe Vera is to encourage this way of thinking within little artists, so that they may move positively into the future”. When it comes to art, Ryan notes that she tries to practice art in her life every day. In addition to founding Aloe Vera Art, she helps to manage and coordinate a small start-up art collective, called Roots Again, and at the same time, is collaborating with an illustrator to write a graphic novel/comic book. “I can’t imagine a day without art, and this is the essential passion I would like to spread throughout my community, the city, and the lives that I interact with as I continue to and travel

and live around the world”, she said. As she works on her own projects, she thinks about how to adapt them into similar projects for children. She is constantly collecting found materials at parks, beaches, on travels and from the recycled goods in her kitchen for inspiration. “The ideas I practice in my own life, I try to always share with the children. I want them to envision a tree branch as something completely new. I want them to think twice before they throw out boxes and water bottles, imagining the infinite new uses they could have. The endless worlds they could create with the discarded objects in their home”. In her workshops she teaches children about the importance of recycling, science, culture, and the world around

“After many workshops, I have come to accept that the way in which I imagine a project going is not always the reality of how it will go. I’ve held workshops in parks where the weather didn't agree, I’ve built kites that didn't fly, and I have held lessons on blindfold painting, where the children were uncomfortable wearing a blindfold. In the end, I realised that none of the children cared that the workshop didn't go the way I had imagined, because that was the exact problem; It was what I imagined. They loved when the rain fell on them, they screamed with laughter even as they pulled their kites through the grass, and they helped to cover their friend’s eyes rather than the child wearing a blindfold. They had solutions and answers that worked for them, and that is exactly what I want them to be learning. I suppose from the workshops, I too am also constantly learning from them and their flexibility and approach to the unexpected”. Alexandra can be reached at For additional information, visit:, and Instagram: aloeveraart


LALE PROGRAMMES SOCIETY INTRODUCTION TO ARTISAN PICKLES Participants should come with an open mind and curious appetite, and they will leave with their own jar of custommade vegetable ferment that - with some care and attention-will turn into delicious pickles in the weeks ahead. Begüm Atakan is a chef and a cookbook author with particular interests in artisanal pickling and fermentation. She completed her undergraduate studies at the American University in Paris and George Washington University and received her culinary arts degree from Kendall College in Chicago. She returned to Istanbul in 2011 where she still resides. She is co-author of the cookery book “İçindekiler”. Currently, Begüm is pursuing her passion for fermented foods, through researching different cultures’ pickling and vegetable fermentation techniques, and producing a wide range of artisanal pickles and ferments. Pickling and fermentation are ancient techniques of preservation and intensification of the nutritional value of vegetables. Seemingly dormant produce is transformed by teeming microscopic life in the pickling jar. In this workshop, we will talk about everything probiotic and fermentation. Pickling expert Begüm will introduce you to the world of fermented pickles, their nutritional benefits, and the microbiology behind their creation. We will start by discussing the role of fermentation in our lives, the effects and benefits of vegetable ferments as well as their customary uses. We will sample different kinds of fermented pickles. In the second part of the workshop, we will be creating our own personal fermented vegetables with guidance from Begüm, but also with considerable freedom as fermented food is always highly unique.


Thursday, 02 November 2017




EK BİÇ YE İÇ Café, Gümüşsuyu


Basic and Honorary members: 160 TL; Classic and Business members: 150 TL; Guests: 180 TL


Minimum: 12; Maximum: 15


Online at by Monday, 30 October 2017


EBRU WORKSHOP book covers and endpapers in bookbinding. Part of its appeal is that each print is a unique monotype.

Listed with UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, Ebru is the traditional Turkish art of creating colourful patterns by sprinkling and brushing colour pigments onto a pan of oily water and then transferring the patterns to paper. This is a very unusual art form, using special tools and materials including brushes of horsehair bound to straight rose twigs, a tray, natural earth pigments, cattle gall and tragacanth. The art of Ebru is believed to have been invented in the 13th Century. Seljuk and Ottoman calligraphers and artists used marbling to decorate imperial decrees, official correspondence and documents. It is often used as a background writing surface for calligraphy, and especially for


This workshop will be a learning experience, in which you will become acquainted with the art of Ebru, and produce your own Ebru artwork. You will learn, from an expert artisan, how to make Turkish Ebru art using traditional techniques, practice different techniques and understand the secret of rich patterns to create your own style. The IWI has partnered with a leading Turkish culture and travel company in Istanbul to bring you this exclusive workshop. This is a great opportunity to understand the processes that go into making the beautiful pieces that you see in local bazaars, and to bring out your creativity by giving it a try yourself. A truly Turkish experience, and one that we are sure will be unforgettable Upon registration, you will be asked to record if you would like to bring a child(ren) with you. Date

Saturday, 18 November 2017


10:30am – 12:30pm


Cihangir, Beyoğlu


Basic members: 75TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 70TL; Guests: 80TL; Children: 50TL


Minimum: 5; Maximum: 15


Online at by Wednesday, 15 November 2017


MEF International Schools Istanbul Campus Ulus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus Beşiktaş, İstanbul, Türkiye T. +90 212 362 26 33 F. +90 212 257 82 25

LALE PROGRAMMES TOUR OF THE NATIONAL PALACES PAINTING COLLECTION insights into life in 19th century Istanbul, and the lives of the harem women; we will see sultans portraits, and learn about Ottoman history. The magnificent oriental buildings and landscapes will magically take us back in time to the high of the Empire, a period of power and splendour. Through the art works, Banu will help us understand how the Ottoman empire evolved, and how the orientals were perceived by the Europeans; ultimately, these formed the conditions under which the a new generation was shaped – one that was prepared to fight, and die, in support of Ataturk and the creation of the nation of Turkey. After this interesting tour, we can discuss over a coffee at the museum café, with a Sultan’s-eye view of the Bosphorus. Join with our IWI partner Banu Küçüksubaşı, a professional art historian and tour guide, to visit the former Crown princes’ residence at the Dolmabahçe Palace - now home to the National Palaces Painting collection. The museum has recently reopened after extensive renovation and makes a splendid backdrop for the approximately 200 paintings by both Turkish and international artists.


Tuesday, 28 November 2017


10:00am – 11:30am


National Palaces Painting Museum, Beşiktaş


Basic and Honorary members: 50TL; Classic and Business members: 45TL; Guests: 60TL


Minimum: 12; Maximum: 20

There are 11 themed sections to visit - Orientalist Painters, Istanbul Views, Westernization in the Ottoman Empire. Walking, talking and looking through these, we will gain


Online at by Saturday 25 November 2017


TRADITIONAL TURKISH TILE-PAINTING WORKSHOP In this workshop, each participant will work on a ceramic bisque plate (18 cm in diameter) that has been fired once, but not yet glazed. The plates will be ready either with patterns to be filled by colours, or empty for free-hand painting. We will receive hands-on instruction on how to make patterns on the plate, and how to use paints to colour our designs. This is also an opportunity to learn about the history and tradition of tile painting, as well as to interact (through Şerif) with the local artist, learning their personal story of working today with this ancient art. Our work will then be glazed and fired, and once it is ready it can be collected CIP Events at any time – a very personal souvenir! Another wonderful event with our IWI Partner Şerif Yenen, set in the comfort of his beautiful traditional apartment premises, which will be “transformed” by us into a busy artist’s studio! The art of Turkish tile and ceramic-making developed over the centuries incorporating many different techniques and styles. Enriched by the arrival of the Seljuk Turks, the ceramic industry in Anatolia achieved a deservedly worldwide reputation with the support of the Ottoman court. Today, Kutahya has been revived as an important centre of tile and ceramic-making. In addition, efforts are also being made in private workshops and educational institutions in Iznik, Istanbul, and Bursa to keep the art of traditional Turkish tiles and ceramics alive and develop it so that it can address the demands of modern-day life.



Tuesday, 21 November 2017


10:00am – 12:30pm


CIP Events, Cihangir


Basic and Honorary members: 160 TL; Classic and Business members: 150 TL; Guests: 180 TL


Minimum: 8; Maximum: 12


Online at by Saturday, 18 November 2017



LALE PROGRAMMES COFFEE & CULTURE TOUR: KUZGUNCUK Park, the restored Fethi Paşa mansion is now as a restaurant, with a nice Bosphorus view. Continuing on to Kuzguncuk, we reach the small district containing Jewish synagogues, an Armenian church and a Greek Orthodox church. For hundreds of years, these people of different faiths lived side by side, and they left their physical marks as well as their sense of community spirit. Strolling the main street, we will enjoy browsing small jewellery ateliers, art galleries, curiosity shops, artisan bakeries… and check out the produce at the communal vegetable gardens. Kuzguncuk is a small, charming village in the Üsküdar district on the Asian side. Once home to a thriving mix of Greeks, Jews and Armenians, it retains much of its traditional architecture and neighbourhood atmosphere. In the 15th century, the area was known as “Little Jerusalem”. Later, in the 18th century, Armenians began moving in. There was also a large Greek community, as evidenced by their churches. Over the years following the departure of the area’s long-established minorities, the ethnic make-up of the neighbourhood has changed, and Black Sea Anatolians now form the majority of lucky residents. Meeting IWI member Gabriele Sailer in Üsküdar, we will walk together along the Bosphorus towards Kuzguncuk. We pass the curious old cigarette warehouse and Fethi Paşa Park, one of the largest green spaces surviving in Üsküdar. Inside the

Having seen all the lovely cafes, it will be a tough group choice where to stop for coffee or a light lunch before we say “au revoir” to Kuzguncuk – because you are sure to want to return. Date

Thursday, 23 November 2017




Starting in Üsküdar


Basic and Honorary members: 10TL; Classic and Business members: 10TL; Guests: 15TL


Minimum: 5; Maximum:15


Online at by Monday, 20 November 2017


GRAND BAZAAR CHRISTMAS SHOPPING SPREE can find gold, fabrics, carpets, leather and knock-off bags, whilst the back streets are a maze of sellers of antiques, jewellery, silks, lamps, scarves, ethnic and artistic items, copper, handmade silver and much more. Our guide, IWI Partner Monica Fritz, has been exploring the alleys of the Bazaar for 20 years and, despite knowing it like the back of her hand, she is constantly discovering new secrets. Join her to experience a different kind of Christmas shopping – from original Orientalist antique paintings, to colourful trinkets, the Bazaar has something for every budget and most tastes.

One of the largest and oldest market dating back to 1461, the Grand Bazaar is still a world of its own with many traditions that have remained unchanged over the centuries. There are approximately 4000 shops, arranged in sections that resemble villages, many antique fountains, mosques, a police station, a small stock market, restaurants, craftsmen’s workshops and many splendid Caravansaries. Over its lifetime, the Grand Bazaar has survived several fires and earthquakes, despite many parts being constructed in wood and the precarious web of electrical cables strung up all round! In spite of the downturn in tourism, this market is still vibrant and packed with characteristic wares. In the main streets you

The art of bargaining starts with a tea, and is delicate at times, based on intuition and charm. It can also bring laughter and a happy ending. In a group we need patience, we can learn from each other, discover some interesting places and have fun bargaining. There will be an optional lunch at the end. Date

Monday, 4 December 2017


10:00am – 2:00pm


Starting from Çemberlitas tram stop


Basic members: 80TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 70TL; Guests: 90TL;


Minimum: 5; Maximum: 8


Online at by Friday, 1 December 2017



LALE PROGRAMMES SOCIETY IWI CHRISTMAS LUNCH Christmas Lunch Menu • Smoked duck breast, confit gizzards, cranberry and goat cheese salad with walnut dressing • Cepe mushroom and pumpkin risotto with parmesan cheese • Roast and juniper brined turkey, chestnut and sage stuffing, roast vegetables and reduced jus • Christmas chocolate buche • Festive cookies, Tea or coffee

This year, we are very excited to announce that for our annual Christmas lunch, we will experience the Swiss hospitality at the Chalet restaurant on the grounds of the Swissotel The Bosphorus, Istanbul. Housed in a genuine, 100-year-old wooden chalet imported from Switzerland, its interior is designed with vintage skis, clocks and a lovely fireplace. The Chalet lends the perfect atmosphere for this event; you will be transported from the city to a homy and cosy Alpine setting. We will be greeted with hot wine to warm our heart and souls, and as a special treat, we will have chestnuts roasting on an open fire! You will not want to miss this festive event! The price per person includes a glass of glühwein before lunch and one beverage – soft drink, or wine – during lunch.

Christmas Lunch Menu – Vegetarian Option • Shiitake, red quinoa and cranberry salad with goat cheese • Grilled green asparagus with chopped egg and herbed breadcrumbs • Main course; • Cepe mushroom and pumpkin risotto with parmesan cheese • OR • Pumpkin ravioli served with butter sage sauce • Christmas chocolate buche • Festive cookies, Tea or coffee Date

Tuesday, 12 December 2017




Swissotel Chalet, on the grounds of the Swissotel Bosphorus


Basic and Honorary members: 185 TL; Classic and Business members: 175 TL; Guests: 195 TL (Tip not included)


Minimum: 35; Maximum: 70


Online at by Saturday, 9 December 2017


GINGERBREAD HOUSE WORKSHOP You’ll enjoy the festive atmosphere, listening to holiday tunes and sipping hot chocolate while you create your masterpiece. Spread the holiday spirit by inviting friends to join you for this special event! After the workshop, all participants are welcome to take home their own gingerbread house and decorated New Year cookies. This is a wonderful creative outlet that will ‘wow’ your friends and family, and create memories for years to come!

Celebrate the season with gingerbread fun in our signature gingerbread house holiday workshop. In this workshop, pastry chef Ercan Bey will demonstrate how to make the gingerbread cookie dough and give us the recipes to take home. Participants will then decorate their very own pre-made gingerbread house and holiday cookies. You will use colourful candies, decorative sprinkles and other goodies to create you edible artwork.



Wednesday, 06 December 2017




Marriott Hotel, Şişli


Basic and Honorary members: 150 TL; Classic and Business members: 140 TL; Guests: 165 TL


Minimum: 12; Maximum: 20


Online at by Sunday, 03 December 2017





November 2017 Wednesday




















Pickling Workshop




Meet and Greet




Asian Side Coffee

European Side Coffee

20 Tile Painting






Ebru Workshop






Dolmabahce Palace painting collection



December 2017 Wednesday





Sunday 2


IWI Winter Festival



Grand Bazaar Shopping Spree




Gingerbread House Workshop 11




Bomonti Kermes















IWI Christmas Lunch



European Side Coffee 25





MEETINGS AND PLAYGROUPS IWI has weekly playgroups organised according to children’s ages. These are usually hosted by our members at their homes, meet-ups at parks or walks along the Bosphorus coast IWI GROUPS These playgroups are free of charge for IWI members. This is an opportunity to meet other parents of infants or toddlers, as well as share the joys and trials of motherhood while creating a support network. Please contact the Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator Lyubov Gürler at if you have any questions or suggestions. The coordinators will add you to the group’s mailing list to keep you updated about future events. Pregnant and infants (0-12 months) Coordinator: Candice Walkers – Younger Toddlers (1-2 years) Coordinator: Tanya Toddlers (2+) Coordinator: Merle Asian Side Playgroup (for all ages) Coordinator: Need a Volunteer

PLAYGROUPS AT SCHOOLS Bosphorus International PreSchool, Emirgan Teacher-organised activity, song and circle time, garden play (weatherpermitting). Coffee, tea, milk and cookies provided. When: Fridays Time: 10am-11:30am Cost: FREE Age group: 0-3 years Please contact Ms Collette LaffanPersembe at or telephone at 0212 277 8444. *Note: please call on Thursdays to reserve. There are only 10 openings every week. Please only ONE known adult per child.


British International School, Zekeriyaköy

Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Yeniköy, Istanbul

Indoor and outdoor play (weatherpermitting), followed by snack and music time. A known adult must stay and supervise the child.

Baby Playgroup for Boys and Girls

Zekeriyaköy (Tuesdays and Fridays) / Etiler (Wednesdays and Fridays) Time: 9am-11am (both campuses) Cost: 10TL per session Age: 0-2.5 years of age Please contact Mrs Amanda Ilhan, Preschool and Primary Deputy Director at or telephone at 0212 202 7027 ext 116

When: Thursdays Time: 9:30am-11:30am Cost: 50TL per session, (no blockbooking required) Age: 0-3 years Where: Ballet Studio, Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Güzelce Ali Paşa Cad. No. 50, Yeniköy, İstanbul Bring: Soft slippers for little feet Please contact Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director at director@ or telephone 0212 262 4302

MUMS ’N KIDS Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Tarabya, Istanbul Mother and Toddler Music and Movement Class. Parents and guardians can come along for fun singing and dancing with their little ones. When: Tuesdays and Thursdays Time: 9:30-12:00 Cost: 30TL per class or 50TL for two classes per week Age: 6-23 months Where: Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Sumer Korusu, Altuncu Sk, No 5, Tarabya, Istanbul Please contact Maresa Shahnooshi, Teacher and Preschool Coordinator at or by telephone on 0212 299 3906.

Kindermusik at Play to Learn Pre-School

KidsAloud British Culture International Preschool

On the European side in Akatlar, Nişantaşı and Koç University Rumelifeneri Campus and on the Asian side in Ataşehir, offering different music classes.

Summer School Age 2-6 and playgroup activitiıes Emirgan, Istanbul, www. ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer Song & Circle Time, Daytime Activities (art, dance, drama, sport, outdoor play) An adult to stay and supervise child

My Time Programme: 18-30 months ABC, Music and Me Programme: 2-4 years of age Please contact Ms Ozlem Hun at info@ or telephone at 0212 352 3031 or 0532 237 2272.

Time: 10:30am - 12:00pm Wednesdays Cost: FREE for IWI members Bring: soft slippers Where: Kids Aloud British Culture Preschool, Emirgan Mah. Şirin Sok. No. 32, Emirgan, Istanbul Please contact Mrs Sevgi Doğan or Carroll Ibramihov Tan Telephone: 0532 361 4427 / 212 229 3776, or *Note: please call on Fridays or Mondays to reserve (within the quota) We offer a 50% discount for IWI members for the summer school and 2016 September term. www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer

The Mums ’n Kids Team is a volunteer group that organises activities for you and your children to enjoy. Please take responsibility for your own child’s safety. IWI is not liable for any injury or loss incurred

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND PROVIDERS Fotini Café - Arnavutkoy, Beşiktaş

Full Circle Healing Doula List

IWI members enjoy a waiver on the 8TL entrance fee to the playroom. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Please contact Lena at or telephone 0533 093 9992. Francalaci Cd. No.26, Arnavutkoy, 34345 Istanbul, Turkey


Gymboree Play and Music

LOLA (Lots of Lovely Art)

Gymboree Play and Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0-5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in 30 countries, making Gymboree the global leader in early childhood development programmes. Designed by experts, the age-appropriate activities help develop the cognitive, physical and social skills of children as they play. The programmes are also recognised for their unique approach to parent involvement, which encourages participation in and understanding of each child’s development. Cost: 1,020TL for 12 classes (after IWI discount applied) Gymboree members can also enjoy complimentary free-play times during the week. For non-Gymboree members, IWI members these cost 30TL per hour. School Skills programme (drop-off) for the 2-3 year olds or 3-4 year olds. 10% discount on full-year School Skills programme for IWI members. Music and Art classes are also available. Limited offer for IWI members: 12 classes for the price of eight. Birthday parties for 1-7 year olds (20% discount for weekday bookings) Please contact Esra Taşar at or telephone 212 275 8787.

Our House

A café with a playroom dedicated to babies and toddlers up to three years old, Fotini Café is located along the Bosphorus coast and offers a comfortable area for you and your child to unwind and have fun at the same time.

15% discount for IWI members on Play and Learn classes in the Ortaköy branch. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount.

Hotpot Café - Şişli, Istanbul

Merkez Mah. Perihan Sk. Erbil Apt. No 71-73B, Şişli – Istanbul Located centrally in Şişli, with just a short walk from the metro station, Hotpot café offers playgroups (baby/toddler), yoga (prenatal, yoga, adults), dance and drama classes and other fun activities for both kids and mums. There is a 10% discount for IWI members. Please present your IWI membership card to claim. Please contact Melissa at or telephone 0212 343 5353.

There are doulas on both the European and Asian side. Doulas may be willing to travel to your location. For more detailed information about each doula, and on how a doula can support you, visit Specialising in pregnancy and childbirth, providing education and counselling services to expecting parents and bringing together experts who believe in a natural approach. After-school workshops, toddler art, kinder art, weekend workshops, holiday camps, themed birthday parties. Our House is located in Cihangir as a center for children and families. The aim of the organisation is to generate curiosity, creativity ad awareness for children at all stages of development.

Atölye Hippo - Your Art Studio in Yeniköy

A brand new kids’ space in Yeniköy – Istanbul! Arts & crafts workshops (ages 6-14), walk-in studio alternatives, mommy & me groups, play groups, movies nights, karaoke parties, Go sessions, Zumba dance… At Atölye Hippo, we want your kids to spend quality time, discovering, creating and designing. Whether you want to exploit those after school idle times, or schedule your weekends with exciting countless workshop alternatives, Atölye Hippo is the right place. Alternatively, Atölye Hippo workshops may also be offered at your premises, be it a special corporate event, a compound gathering, special parties, birthdays or celebrations at your homes… We are proud to announce that, we very recently started going to schools as an after-school may run into us at your school:) Contacts us at: 0542 521 21 30



s ’ t LeWork Together SPECIAL EVENTS COORDINATOR Every year IWI organises special events such as the annual Winter Festival for our members and the community.

ONLINE MARKETING COORDINATOR Social media is an important part of today’s society; and an excellent way to reach out to our members and community.

IWI Needs: an organised energetic woman (or women) to lead a dynamic team of volunteers.

IWI Needs: a digitally savvy woman who can lead a team of social media and website administrators in reaching IWI members online.

ADVERTISING COORDINATOR The Lale is a lifestyle magazine for IWI members and the community; and advertising is as important as the content itself. IWI Needs: an administratively strong women to work with the Lale Editor in engaging with current advertisers and attracting new ones. LOCAL AREA ADMINISTRATORS IWI has local area administrators that organise social activities for IWI Members in their area. This is a great way to meet new friends and support other women in your community. The IWI Mums ‘N Kids Group also has area administrators that organise activities and play groups for children of various ages. IWI Needs: women interested in leading local area activities.


MUM’S ‘N KIDS COORDINATOR IWI organises regular play groups and family activities for IWI members with children. IWI Needs: a vibrant woman to lead the area team members and collaborate with the IWI Programs Team in organising larger family oriented events.

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Your Neighbourhood Community Meetup (NCM) administrator organizes meet-ups and activities in your area. This is a great opportunity to connect with other women and discover what IWI has to offer. Unsure what area you are in and who to contact? Ask Maria Eroğlu at

MACENTA (Beşıktaş, Levent) Leen Saket,

PEMBE (Bebek)

Olga Treve,

SARI (Sarıyer)

Szilvia Nagy,

BEYAZ (Ortaköy)


MOR (Nişantaşı, Beyoğlu) Vacancy,

TURKUAZ (İstinye)

MAVİ (Göktürk)

Anke Tamer,

YEŞİL (Yesilköy, Bakirköy) Lida Rowhani,

TURUNCU (Çengelköy)

Gaye Hiçdönmez,


Skaidrite Dzene,

KIRMIZI (Kadıköy, Üsküdar) Gabriele Sailer,

Szilvia Nagy,

New To Istanbul? Every month we hold Newcomer Coffee Mornings where you can learn more about IWI and Istanbul. Contact us to find out more. EUROPEAN SIDE Ayşe Yücel,

ASAIN SIDE Gabriele Sailer, 59


Have a particular passion or want to learn one? There are IWI social clubs and other associations to get involved with in Istanbul. It is a great way to expand your community, make new friends and find support!

BOOK CLUB For details, contact Mary Akgüner:


Bridge group meets on Fridays at 10:30. All levels welcome! For details, contact Sandra: 0 (532) 483 5319.


Mahjong group meets every Monday at 10:30 - 16:00. No previous experience required! For details, contact Gesa Horna – 537 362 4912 Mimo – 5362732489

RUNNING GROUP Running Group is a monthly membership. Thursdays 19:00 & Sundays 8:00, Caddebostan sahil. Contact Marina Khonina: or 0 (534) 982 83 07



This is an Asian-side meet-up. Bikes can be rented, but bring your own rollerblades. It’s lots of fun. For details, contact Gabriele Sailer:

Tennis Group takes place at Istanbul Tennis Academy (ISTA) in Istinye. All levels are welcome! For details, contact IWI Sports Coordinator, Olga:



Friends of ARIT, was established to support the ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey) in Turkey; and runs a year-round programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. Contact: 0 (212) 257 81 11.

The photo club, a group of international members of varying skill levels (basic to semi-professional), and share the common desire to capture the world in a photograph and explore Istanbul while doing so. Contact Katherine Baker:



International Women’s Bible Study group meets Tuesdays from 10:00 until 12:30. Contact Vicki Günay: 0 (532) 314 1134.

Union Church of Istanbul is an international, interdenominational church that offers services in English. Contact:




Boy Scouts & Cub Scouts of America are youth programmes for character development and leadership training. All boys holding a foreign passport are welcome. Cub Scouts: boys ages 6-10. Boy Scouts: boy ages 11- 18. Contact Vicki Günay: 0 (532) 314 11 34 or

Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls build leadership skills through the development of strong values, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls ages five and up are welcome. Contact Kat Bekham: 0 (542) 300 24 92 or

Speech Bubbles Theatre, is a drama group composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers/musicians from the international community; which also runs a part-time school of performing arts for children and adults on Saturday mornings. Contact:


For details, contact Gaye Hiçdönmez: or 0 (532) 700 0693







The Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a nonprofit social group for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul. Contact Kim Cakirkaya: or 0 (533) 463 69 30

AWI is a social network open to Americans, Canadians and spouses of US or Canadian citizens in Istanbul. Contact Monisha Kar or Sia Israfil:


The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gather every month for social (such as drinks, brunch, or dinner) and cultural activities. Contact:


National Continued

CHICAS (Spanish Women of Istanbul) CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana) DIE BRÜCKE Die Brücke, a platform for the German-speaking community, organises social activities and provides information on education and immigration.

CHICAS unite Latin Americans, Spaniards and others Spanish speakers to socialise and help from each other in a friendly environment. Contact:

The Italian Association organises social activities, Italian/Turkish conversation classes, and much more. Visit our website for more information: www.

DNSI (Dutch School of Istanbul)


DNSI provides Dutch language and cultural lessons to students (3-16 years old); and a one-week Dutch summer school. Visit our website for more information:

Friends of India Association (FOIA) connects Indians in Istanbul through various social events. Contact foia.

NVI (Dutch Community of Istanbul)

SWEA (Swedish Women Edu.. Assoc.) LUSO BRASILEIRO

Dutch Club Istanbul keeps typical Dutch festivities alive and organises activities for Dutch-speaking community. Contact Lisette Ruygrok: i

SWEA, a world-wide network for Swedish-speaking women, organises events and activities; and welcomes everyone who speaks Swedish. Contact:

Istanbul Accueil provides the French speaking community in Istanbul information on events and activities. Contact: or Website:

Portuguese speaking group. Isabel Ponte Gulpan: 0 (532) 274 16 53

SOUTH AFRICANS IN ISTANBUL For information please contact:


INTERNATIONS InterNations is where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. For information visit our website:

PAWI (Profn’l American Women of Ist.) PAWI is a network of American and Canadian women living in Istanbul that strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Contact:

TOASTMASTERS INT’L ISTANBUL The English-speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club helps members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment. Contact:




Rugby Club in Istanbul has coaching for children and teenagers. Turkish, English, French and Spanish are spoken.

Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome. We practise Saturday 16:00-18:00, except on game days.

An Expat Football Community of amateurs who enjoy playing and learning football. Ages, skills and experience welcome. Facebook: @iTeamFootball


ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS & AL-ANON For more information and a full listing of all English-speaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website:

C@RMA C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have volunteer opportunities that require various skill set on our platform,, and also organise events where NGOs present their projects and brainstorm with other professionals. For more information, contact

FRANSIZ FAKIRHANESI LITTLE SISTERS OF THE POOR Contact Mother Mary:. psdptr@gmail. com or 0 (212) 296 46 08 SUPPORT GROUP FOR PARENTS OF CHILDREN WIT SPECIAL NEEDS Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs; and additional resources for your child? Contact Carol Crous: 0 (533) 730 71 48


IWI DIRECTORY / CLASSIFIEDS / PARTNER OFFERS Prıvate Dental Practice Dr. Gülfem Bascher General & Esthetic Dentistry Implantology Orthodontics POYRACIK SK. No:35/3 Nisantası - Istanbul 0212 296 66 09 0532 748 70 40 MEF International Schools Istanbul Campus Ulus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus Beşiktaş, İstanbul, Türkiye T. +90 212 362 26 33 F. +90 212 257 82 25


I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho rebalancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.


Private lessons for kids 4+ years and adults One-to-one and group lessons for ages 3 and 3,5 to develop piano playing skills with songs, rhythm games and fun activities Lessons in English or Turkish Lessons either in teacher’s (Ulus/Ortakoy area) or student’s house Piano recital at the end of school year Preparation for London College of Music piano exams upon request Sandra: 05324220413


Whether you are an adult or child, beginner or advanced level, learn Turkish or German from an experienced teacher. For further information: Mine Varımlı home-office (Yesilyurt): 0212 573 13 54 / 0 533 370 43 77


We will be having an estate sale of vintage, antique and contemporary items in Beşiktaş on Sunday, 26 November 2017. There will be a wide variety of clothing, shoes, accessories, furniture, and more, from the US and Turkey. For location and details about sale items, send your name, email and mobile number to


Certified coach providing personal and professional advice, energy and spiritual work for greater awareness and understanding. Sessions in French, Spanish and English (German and Arabic on request) We can have a first informal meeting for free to get to know each other. Contact: Nermine Naguib: Tel: 05397630323 Whatsapp: 0034607492450



IWI Member Discount: 20% discount (Code: IWIADA20) Ada Suites believes that each guest has unique needs and expectations; and we know our hospitality will make you feel special. Located in the heart of Nişantaşı, and minutes away from the hippest luxury shopping; best restaurants and cafes; and major health centres like Acıbadem and American Hospital.


Anne Nature’s six-piece certified organic skincare line, covers all the basic needs in skin care for mother, child and the whole family. IWI members receive a 15% discount on any purchase from the web page: www. (in addition to any existing promotion campaigns.


IWI Members Discount: 10% discount (valid at Kadıköy, Profilo AVM & Bağdat Cd. stores) C.C.C. is the premier PLUS SIZE BRAND for women in Turkey since 1985. Please check our website for our latest collection: www.cccshopping. com


IWI Members Discount: 15% discount on all treatments and package programs British salon owner, Ann Marie Sabuncu is offering IWI members a 15% discount on all treatments and package programs. Chill Out Spa is a small boutique spa using quality products from Decleor and the latest in technology. LPG body treatments and reflexology are just some of the treatments available. For more information please contact Ann Marie at 0212 231 1159. www.chilloutspa.


IWI Member Discount: 15% discount at restaurants, High Tea and spa treatments Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus has several gourmet restaurants, lounges and a Spa. Tel: 0 (212) 315 60 00 Email: sales.


IULC offers discounts for IWI members. IULC, in the light of modern developments in foreign language education, by benefiting from the academic branches of our university in teaching foreign languages (English, French, German, Russian, Arabic, Spanish, Greek, Portuguese etc.) especially “Turkish as a Foreign Language”, is in the status of Istanbul University’s opening window to the world. For more İnformation, please see: en/ or call: +90 212 243 67 29.


IWI Member Discount: 20% discount Indulge in a day of relaxation and pampering at our luxury spa. We offer a wide range of massage and beauty treatments, guaranteed to refresh and renew you. IWI members receive 20% discount. Appointment is required, Phone: +90 212 3750100 ext. 3695



IWI Members Discount: free Turkish conversation classes that take place twice a month between 14:30-15:30 Located in the heart of Etiler, Concept Languages is offering one free Turkish conversation and grammar class to any IWI member presenting their card. Classes will take place twice a month between 14:30-15:30. For information and reservations, please contact: Başak Toksoy 0 (212) 351 18 40 or

IWI Member Discount: 20% discount on full price prenatal yoga and birthing classes, workshops, massages and mother-baby yoga classes Momma Zen & Annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy for the pregnant woman, baby yoga and baby massage workshops and kid’s yoga. We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birth classes, workshops, massages and mother-baby yoga classes. Momma Zen/Annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. or



IWI Members Discount: 25% discount on all treatments Located in Çengelköy - Anatolian Side. All treatments with 25% discount to IWI members. Address: Albay Hüsamettin Ertürk Cad. No: 4 D: 23, ÇengelköyÜsküdar. Mobile: 0536 357 9808. Email:

Have you been looking for somewhere to have a relaxing and holistic facial? Try the Skincare Specialists at Shandra Spa, Bebek. Friendly, experienced and results oriented. For more details and to book an appointment click on:


IWI Member Discount: 20% discount For Kids and Adults of all skill levels. Located in Istanbul, we specialize in coaching all skill levels. We’ve got you covered. Our classes focus on rapid development while being affordable and fun. We offer 20% discount to IWI members. Mert Ozgenc: Certified tennis trainer, more than 12 years coaching experience. Mobile: 0532 602 3883, Email:


IWI Member Discount: 20% discount on all services Swiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, İstanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you Swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We strive to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for all IWI members. Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212/ 353 63 83 www.


IWI Member Discount: 25% discount on subscriptions Time Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discount on subscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city. Find out how you may get your free issue by contacting: Omer Karanis,; www.


Katerina Tenezou is an accredited Clinical Psychologist and certified Psychodynamic and CognitiveBehavioral Psychotherapist who provides individual, couples’ and group psychotherapy to Englishspeaking expats. Her expertise is in treating mental disorders, addictions and relational problems. IWI members receive a 20% discount on the session fee. For more information, visit: www. Office Tel/ WhapsApp: +90 533 340 98 81, GSM: +90 543 836 97 82


IWI POLICIES Membership Directory Membership information is only available online in the members only area of the website at present, but depending on sponsorship availability, may again be printed in the future as it was in the past. Whether online or in print, any and all member information is provided to IWI members in strictest confidentiality. Provision of member information to third parties contravenes IWI policy


Membership is open to all women who hold a Non-Turkish passport. For application details, please visit our website Membership registration is also available at our Newcomers meetings, held each month on both the European and Asian sides. Please refer to the Newcomers page in this Lale magazine for details of timing and location. Changing Address? Don’t forget to give us your new address (postal and/or e-mail) to avoid delays to the delivery of Lale magazine or for up-to-date IWI member information. Contact our Membership Coordinator by e-mail at

If your Lale magazine doesn’t arrive, please contact the Membership Coordinator


To place an advertisement please contact us at Advertisements must be confirmed through signed contract before any payment is accepted. Classified ads: Restricted to 50 words. Member cost: 1-3 FREE in our online publications (Non-Commercial Ads) Non-Member cost: $60 plus 18% VAT. All advertising costs are payable by bank transfer. No cash payments accepted. A copy of the payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: Only paid advertisements can be included in Lale.

DISCLAIMER Lale Content The IWI as an organisation and the IWI Board members act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not accept any liability regarding the accuracy or content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles. In order to comply with these laws or publishing standards the IWI reserve the right to reject or edit any submission to Lale. Furthermore, the IWI does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers. Programmes Cancellation of a programme reservation after the deadline remains fully payable. Please refer to our website for up to date details, last minute additions or programme changes. The IWI reserves the right to cancel programmes due to insufficient numbers. You are responsible for both you and your child’s safety and the IWI cannot accept responsibility for injury or extra cost incurred during any activity organised by the IWI, or advertised in Lale.


over 80 shopping stalls international food court luxurious lottery prizes festive entertainment children’s corner Santa Claus

10 TL Sunday, 3 December 2017 Istanbul Marriott Hotel ĹžiĹ&#x;li 10:00 - 17:00

Everyone Welcome

children 12 and under free admission all net proceeds go to the IWI Social Responsibility Fund

entrance fee includes free gift while supplies last

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