Lale november december 2016

MAGAZINE OF THE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN OF ISTANBUL

02 NOVEMBER-DECEMER 2016

WINTER ESCAPE Bodrum in the off-season

Let It Go!

Practical Steps to Emotional Detox

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IM’PAWS’IBLY CUTE

a visit to BU PAWS dog sanctuary

BUSINESS NETWORKING Make Social Media Work For You

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CONTENTS NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2016

LALE NEWS

4 SOCIETY Around Town - IWI Opening Meeting, Thai Cooking Class, Aikido, Photgraphy Walk 16 NETWORKING Harnessing the power of social media to grow your business

18 EXPAT LIFE Musings from Karen Yarnold as she settles into Istanbul

19 LEGAL A how-to guide for purchasing property in Turkey

20 SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Raising socially

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LALE REGULARS

3 LETTERS FROM THE EDITOR AND CHAIR 54 BOARD NEWS 55 BOARD FOCUS 56 NEWCOMERS 58 MUMS ’N KIDS 60 CLUBS, GROUPS AND ASSOCIATIONS 63 SPECIAL OFFERS

responsible children

46 EVENTS Take the chill out of winter with a

variety of programmes in November and December

LALE FEATURES

24 INTERVIEW Meet Nana Lin, world traveler, tastemaker and home goods entrepreneur

30 LIFE We drop in on BU PAWS dog sanctuary’ 34 ART Visit the Melting Point exhibit at the Elgiz

Museum

38 NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR We visit the

historic neighbourhood of Üsküdar

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LALE LIFESTYLE

22 HEALTH Acıbadem warns of the health risks and addictive nature of sugar

32 GOURMET Customers are flocking to Le Cuistot for its international flavours

35 WELLBEING Reyhan Elmasri shares her tips for taking care of your emotional health 42 TRAVEL See what treasures the popular

summer destination of Bodrum offers in the winter

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LALE BOARD INFORMATION IWI Office Hours: First Wednesday of the month, 10:30am to 1:00pm. Answering service available every working day

IWI BOARD MEMBERS Chairwoman

Anna Ilhan

chairwoman@iwi-tr.org

Vice Chairwoman

Karen Yarnold

vicechair@iwi-tr.org

Treasurer

Leen Saket

treasury@iwi-tr.org

Secretary

Jeanette von AlvenslebenNiethammer

secretary@iwi-tr.org

Membership Coordinator

Elena Sklyarskaya

membership@iwi-tr.org

Lale Editor

Monisha Kar

lale@iwi-tr.org

Sponsorship Coordinator

Gülşen Şahin

sponsorship@iwi-tr.org

Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027

Neighbourhood Community Coordinator

Maria Eroğlu

ncm@iwi-tr.org

İrtibat Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahalesi, Ecza Sok. Pol Center Casci, Apt. No: 4, Sisli, Istanbul – TURKEY

Newcomers Coordinator (European side)

Ayşe Yücel

newcomerseurope@iwi-tr.org

Newcomers Coordinator (Asian side)

Gabriele Sailer

newcomersasia@iwi-tr.org

Events Coordinator

TBA

events@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Coordinator

Kristina Wilfore

charity@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Coordinator

Fiona Slay

programs@iwi-tr.org

Marketing & Communications

Sibele Valsani

marketing@iwi-tr.org

Business Networking Coordinator

Halima Hodzic

networking@iwi-tr.org

Schools Liaison Coordinator

Krastina Aranitasi

schools@iwi-tr.org

Volunteers Coordinator

Anna Mozejko

volunteer@iwi-tr.org

Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahalesi, Ecza Sok. Pol Center Casci, Apt. No: 4, Sisli, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 287 35 71 www.iwi-tr.org

Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul

İmtiyaz Sahibi / Licensee: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli Tasarım / Design: Marlet Corporate Publications www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Matbaa / Printer: Marlet Print Solutions Fener Kalamış Caddesi: No:30 Kalamış / İstanbul www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Basım Tarihi: 24.10.2016 Sayı: 83 Official Facebook page: facebook.com/istanbulwomen Instagram account @iwistanbul

OTHER IWI TEAM MEMBERS Advertising Administrator

TBA

advertising@iwi-tr.org

Newsletter Administrator

Suzy Kaluti

newsletter@iwi-tr.org

Website Administrator

TBA

digitalmedia@iwi-tr.org

Social Media Administrator TBA

socialmedia@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Team Members

Olga Dundar, Kathleen di Giacomo, Alexis Harvey

programs@iwi-tr.org

Events Team Members

Anke Tamer

events@iwi-tr.org

Sponsor Support Administrator

Ginatare Nemanyte

sponsorsupport@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Administrator

Nathalie Versavel

charity@iwi-tr.org

Further vacant positions can be found on page 54

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LALE

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Welcome to the November and December issue of Lale. We’ve had a busy two months at IWI welcoming many new and returning members to our organisation. Our Opening Meeting in September was a great success, and for the first time, we also hosted an evening networking event to provide more options to learn about and get involved with IWI (see page 4 for pictures). You can also see the pictures from our second Bosphorus boat trip of the season, the results from our Thai Cooking Class, and wander with us on the various photography walks on our society pages.

The fun continues in November and December, and we have an exciting roster of events lined up for you, so turn to page 46 and come join in the fun. As always, the programmes team has been hard at work and we hope to offer different program options for those of you who have been asking for more evening and weekend events.

In this issue, we feature the amazing work that the BU PAWS team has been doing to provide love and a sense of stability to Istanbul’s stray animal population. And in this season of giving, it is never too early to instill social responsibility in our children. Despite their youth, board member Krastina Aranitasi’s daughters have already displayed an impressive sense of empathy and giving to our Istanbul community. You can read about them on page 20.

For our lifestyle section, we highlight a unique culinary gem near Tarabya called Le Cuistot.

The descriptions of the food are sure to make your mouth water. And finally, don’t miss our upcoming Christmas Bazaar on December 4. It is sure to be another memorable event with a spread of international food, beautiful crafts and entertainment. We look forward to seeing you there!

Monisha Kar, Lale Editor

A LETTER FROM THE CHAIR IWI has been invited to participate at the upcoming “Turkey Women’s Empowerment & Leadership Summit 2016”, 8-9 December 2016. I find this as an excellent opportunity to showcase our organisation and mission and most importantly, to help bring attention to this very important topic, girls’ and women’s empowerment.

As an international women’s organization, we recognize the importance of strengthening opportunities for girls and women to become active, responsible and productive leaders in their communities. Empowering girls and women encourages innovation, builds stronger economies and improves the quality of life for women, men, families and communities.

At a recent event about women’s empowerment hosted by one of the IWI 2016/2017 grantees, Onar, someone was asked what message he would like to give to others. He said, “Stop using labels when describing a woman. When we say, she is a mother, she is a wife, she is a sister; we place a cultural perception on that person. She is a woman; let her determine what she wants to be.”

I found that statement rather compelling as I think about our organization. IWI is about support. Support for our members with the various social opportunities; support for our community through our Social Responsibility Fund and volunteer activities; and support for professional women through our business membership and business networking events.

We truly are “From Women For Women.” I am proud to be a part of a dynamic and supportive group of women living in Istanbul; and I am proud that we have been selected as one of the participants to show our support of the importance in women’s empowerment at such an event.

Anna ILHAN, IWI Chairwoman

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR, KRASTINA ARANITASI

OPENING MEETING IWI’s Opening Meeting took place at the end of September. Both day and evening sessions were held at the Marriott Şişli where our sponsors, partners, non-profit organizations, community groups and women from all over the city connected to learn more about the benefits of membership

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

BOSPHORUS DIP AND DINE

It was such a popular event this summer that we did an encore! Members enjoyed another gorgeous day on a privately-chartered boat, while dining on a potluck lunch and swimming in the blue waters of the Bosphorus

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: LEEN SAKET

CONTRASTING NEIGHBOURHOODS KARAKÖY, THE GOLDEN HORN, BALAT AND FENER

Well-known expat guide Monica Fritz led a Saturday walk through some of Istanbul’s oldest neighbourhoods on both sides of the Golden Horn. Members took in the sights, sounds and colours of Galata and the port area of Karaköy with its hip cafes before jumping on a ferry to the old Jewish quarter of Balat and Fener

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

AIKIDO CLASS

American Martial arts specialist Teddy Wilson and his assistant Sebla led an Aikido class at the Marriott Hotel Şişli. Participants learned about the philosophy of selfdefense, and Teddy explained a few techniques focused on punches to the face and front kicks to the body.

Afterwards, members took advantage of all-day access to the Marrıot’s Spa, which included a swimming pool, sauna, jacuzzi and fitness suite

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PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

LALE SOCIETY

THAI COOKING CLASS

Foodies participated in a memorable cooking demo and exquisite Thai lunch with culinary instructor Wandee Kawaguchi at her home in Maslak. Wandee has been sharing her love of Thai cooking through workshops and classes all over the world, and taught members how to prepare such specialties as prawn cake, chicken satay with peanut sauce, chicken meatballs, Tom Yam dry noodles, wonton soup, and a glass noodle salad

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

TURKISH BREAKFAST

Long-time board member Ayşe Yücel hosted a lavish, home-cooked Turkish breakfast at her home in Yeniköy to welcome our new members. Known for her interest in food and cooking and warm hospitality, guests were treated to an open buffet (Açık Büfe) which included a variety of Turkish cheeses, olives, fresh vegetables, homemade jams, kaymak (clotted cream) and honey, menemen (Turkish-style scrambled eggs), börek and gözleme (savoury pastries), acura (tomato and walnut spread), simit, fruit and Turkish tea and coffee. It was a wonderful introduction to Istanbul, its food, culture and traditions

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

TACO THURSDAY

Los Altos Restaurant in BeyoÄ&#x;lu was the scene for a lively Thursday evening outing for members and their partners. Guests were treated to a private, all-you-can eat taco buffet on the terrace, while taking in the stunning view across the Golden Horn to Sultanahmet

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PHOTOGRAPHY: MONICA FRITZ

LALE SOCIETY

ISTANBUL ORIENTATION

Tour guide Monica Fritz took our newcomers on a guided walk of the central districts in the city. The group started in bohemian Cihangir, then strolled to Çukurcuma, known for its antiques and curiousity shops, and walked through the back streets towards Istiklal to Tünel, passing the iconic Galata tower. After a quick lunch stop, they took the ferry to Kadıköy to sample Turkish coffee and taste Turkish delight and explore the bustling spice market

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LALE NETWORKING

FEATURE: TARA LUTMAN AGACAYAK. PHOTOGRAPHY: JULIA FORSMAN

BUSINESS NETWORKING THE POWER OF SOCIAL MEDIA TO MARKET YOURSELF, GROW YOUR BUSINESS AND SPREAD YOUR CAUSE

Social media channels are powerful platforms for reaching people around the world. Both for staying connected to family, and also for growing a business without borders. Tara Lutman Agacayak tells us how to navigate this medium and capitalize on it for your professional endeavours

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he ability to leverage the internet and do business anywhere in the world creates opportunities that until recently weren’t available to international women living outside of their home countries. We are living in a time where we have access to technology that allows us the freedom and flexibility to take our business with us wherever we go.

BUILD YOUR KNOW-LIKE-TRUST FACTOR

Though it might feel tempting to use social media as a direct selling tool and immediately start posting links to your online shop, seminar, exhibition or Indiegogo campaign, selling on social media without first establishing who you are and what you do might leave you feeling discouraged when no one jumps at your offer the first time you post it online.

KNOW

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN OFFLINE AND ONLINE NETWORKING

One of the mistakes people make when using social media to grow their business or spread their message is that they skip important steps in building relationships with their ideal clients, customers or supporters before they jump into making an offer or asking for a donation.

When engaging with people online, you don’t have the same opportunity to interact as you do in person, so you must use social media channels to build your Know-Like-Trust Factor before asking someone to buy from you.

You wouldn’t ask someone to marry you before they’ve gotten to know you first, so don’t make the same mistake with your online networking. Wait to make a sales offer on social media until you have given your ideal client, customer and supporter to the chance to get acquainted with you and your business or organization.

Tara Lutman Agacayak has been coaching creative entrepreneurs since 2006. She works with inspiring, ambitious and successful women who desire to make an impact and give back through a creative passion project.

Tara is an American who grew up in Silicon Valley and studied Psychology and Information Technology while working as an award-winning database designer for the US Department of Defense. She met her Turkish husband in graduate school and moved to Turkey 15 years ago

Instead of using social media to sell your products and services directly, use it to show people who you are and what you do. People who know you, like you, and trust you will be more likely to buy from you, refer you, or support you when you do eventually make a sales offer or a funding request.

Get your ideal clients, customers and supporters to know who you are by showing up on social media in an authentic way that is in alignment with your company or organization’s brand. The more frequently you post online in places where your ideal client will see you, the more they will get to know you and understand what your work is all about.

LIKE

When you research who your ideal client, customer or supporter is, you will learn how to focus your marketing to their specific needs, problems and desires. And the more specifically you can address them in a way that is also in alignment with your brand, the more you will be able to attract people who like what you do, what you sell, and what cause you stand for. People who like you will pay attention and want to hear more from you and eventually buy from you.

TRUST

One of the ways you can get people to trust you on social media is by showing up consistently. Your social media marketing strategy should include a posting schedule that you can realistically adhere to that enables you to show up consistently online. When people start following you online and see you showing up regularly, they can trust that you are serious about your business and your message.

INVITE PEOPLE TO COME CLOSER

The purpose of social media for business is not selling directly as much as it is inviting people to come closer until they are ready to buy from you. At this point, you’ve done the work of connecting with your audience in a way that makes them more likely to hire you, buy from you, donate to your cause, or support you with volunteer time.

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LALE NETWORKING

STARTING A BUSINESS The Issues We Face

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WI Business Networking is the premier resource for professional international women living in and around Istanbul for building a network, finding support, exchanging ideas and sharing knowledge. We bring professional women together with the intent to foster connections that become self-sustaining and mutually fulfilling.

This year, IWI Business Networking is starting a new series of public discussions called Business Studio.

Business Studio is an open forum where professional women in Istanbul can discuss topics that affect them in today’s ever-changing business environment. We all face professional challenges, whether a business owner, an executive at a company, or working pro bono. Business Studio allows us to discuss these challenges, share knowledge and support one another. Business Studio is one more way IWI supports her members, From Women For Women.

Business Studio Date

Tuesday, 1 November 2016

Time

18:30 – 20:30

Location

Marriott Şişli Hotel Abide-i Hurriyet Caddesi No 142, Sisli, Istanbul,

Cost

Including coffee, tea, water, crackers o o o o

50 TL for Business Members 60 TL for Classic Members 70 TL for Basic Members 80 TL for Guests

Participants

Minimum: 6, Maximum: 15

Registration

networking@iwi-tr.org

Are you an entrepreneur looking to start or grow your business? Are you struggling with the common challenges that startups face? Are you feeling “double the struggle” as a foreign woman in Turkey?

Please join us on Tuesday, 1 November at the Istanbul Marriott Sisli starting at 18:30 for the first in a series of Business Studios. This Business Studio, Starting a Business – The Issues We Face, offers an exciting informal panel discussion addressing the challenges in starting and growing a business as women in Istanbul. Our three panelists include a business coach, an entrepreneur and an attorney at law specializing in criminal law, foreigners support and human rights.

They will give their professional outlook on how to start, maintain and improve your business in Turkey.

Moderator: Kristina Wilfore Panelists: Tara Lutman Agacayak, Tara Lutman Agacayak Coaching Av. Kamil Kıvanç Özdemir, Attorney at Law Ayse Sabuncu, Impact Hub Co-Founder Parking is available for a fee

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LALE EXPAT LIFE

FEATURE KAREN YARNOLD, PHOTOGRAPHY:COURTESY OF CİHAN SONÜSTÜN AND KAREN YARNOLD

HOŞGELDIN!

TÜRKIYE’YE

In the latest instalment of her reflections on expat life, Karen Yarnold regales us with tales of neighbourly goodwill, adventures with her pound puppy Barney, and living on the edge riding Istanbul’s public transportation

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s I write this, my elderly female neighbour is sitting on a picnic chair in what seems to be our shared garden (i.e. she’s in our patch), watching Paul make her a set of stairs to get down from her kitchen into the garden. She has the hugest smile on her face as she follows his every move. They can’t communicate as her English is completely non-existent – not that that is stopping her jabbering away quite happily – and his Turkish is worse than mine. It’s making us smile though, and is giving us yet another memory of our life here.

It started yesterday when Mazes (I just asked her name) was having a good look and feel at the stairs Paul made for our apartment – well for Barney the Superdog really – so that we could access the garden in our new apartment. Barney now has a 5m long chain so that he can roam around the grass and pee at will without running through the rest of the site chasing cats, and I am longing for the winter nights when I can finally lounge around in my PJ’s and not have to worry about being decently dressed when I take him down two flights of stairs at 11pm. He can also look over the wall and see all his friends on the beach. How do you teach a dog not to call all his friends in a loud, barky sort of way without upsetting the neighbours?

organising – such an amazing team of ladies. We’re hoping for a really successful event again this year. It has to be after all the long hours we are putting in.

How I get to be sitting here in one piece amazes me though – after surviving the dolmuş ride I had home from Taksim.

I like to live life on the edge, so I always try to sit up front with the driver. And this one didn’t disappoint. I don’t know which driving school these men went to - if any - but they would put Lewis Hamilton to shame. They know all the short cuts, petrol stations they can zip in and out of, lanes with “no entry” written on them, and opposite lanes they can drive into the oncoming traffic. If you haven’t sat next to the driver on a dolmuş yet, then give it a try – it certainly sharpens the senses.

Taxi rides can be the same too – especially the ones with the grumpy drivers who want a big fare from the airport, and end up with me asking for a 20TL ride home. Now they do put their foot down, usually in bad temper. I always get home quickly from the airport when I get one of those drivers.

Slowly I’ll feel compensated for the money we lost from our very first arrival in Istanbul when that cheating white van driver charged us 400TL to get to Bakırköy!

Anyway, I digress, Mazes managed to convey that she would like some stairs too after she spotted the left-over wood under the apartment. So I offered Paul’s DIY services – not exactly sure that it’s a good thing though as he hates DIY – but he does seem very happy with workmanship.

And just to finish my wonderful day, a walk on the beach tonight, on what looks to be the first day of Autumn, rewarded us with an amazing sunset. All to reinforce to us why we continue to live in this wonderful place despite the pressures and concerns we have every so often.

Why are we (well, Paul) building our own stairs? Well, we asked for a quote from a local carpenter – he wanted 900 TL. Pah! That’s another example of “yabancı price” or “Yeşilköy price.” So we politely refused telling him we could make 3 sets for that price. Wrong! We’ve actually made 2 sets for 300 TL, so we could have had 6 sets. Don’t you just hate it when locals hoist up the price because they think they can, and love it when we can get one over on them?

All I hope now is that the stairs live up to expectation. Mazes has just refused a handrail since we don’t have one on our stairs. Just hoping she doesn’t slip off the thing. If we were in the UK that could be a court case!

I’m at the PC now, just back from an IWI Board meeting in Levent, where I get to meet with the lovely Board members once a month and chew the fat. Hmmm. It’s really a pretty intense 2-3 hours where we discuss a whole range of things about best to keep IWI functioning, improving it and attracting new members – but the most notable discussion today was the Christmas Festival. I hope you are all putting the date (Sunday, December 4) into your diaries, and buying tickets – but you can also pay at the door. I’m just loving this event

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FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: CİHAN SONÜSTÜN

LALE LEGAL

PLANNING TO BUY PROPERTY IN TURKEY? If you are buying property as an investment or to live in, attorney at law Cihan Sonüstün has prepared a guideline for IWI members. Don’t sign anything before reading this article WHO CAN BUY PROPERTY IN TURKEY?

Turkey used to have strict restrictions on foreigners buying property in the country. With the change in law in 2012, many of these restrictions were lifted and the Turkish property market was opened to nationals from 129 different countries.

There are still some general restrictions but these won’t affect someone who wants to buy a house to reside.

The general restrictions are: oo Real estate cannot be purchased in a forbidden zone (military zones, or security zone) oo Real estate owned by a foreign national cannot exceed 10% of the town’s total land area oo Should a foreign national want to buy land exceeding 300,000 square metres, he first needs to obtain approval from the Ministry of Interior in Turkey.

Nationals from 52 countries have been granted permission to buy property in Turkey, aside from the general restrictions.

There are also some regional restrictions, Nationals from Russia and Ukraine cannot buy property along the Black Sea coast of Turkey, and Greek nationals are not permitted to purchase real estate in the Black Sea coast and some Aegean and Mediterranean districts of Turkey. However, these nationals can still buy property in other regions of Turkey.

Nationals from Morocco, Egypt, Latvia, Afghanistan, Albania cannot buy agricultural lands in Turkey - only residential property and/or office space. Additionally, they still need special permission from the Ministry of Interior.

PROCEDURE

The procedure for transferring property ownership is almost the same as for Turkish nationals, apart from the preliminary application to the Land Registry Directorate.

According to recent Turkish laws and regulations, transfer of ownership of a property is only possible with an official deed and registry which is signed at the Land Registry Directorates.

It is possible to sign a “sales commitment agreement” beforehand in front of a notary. However, this is a preliminary step, and does not entitle the transfer of legal ownership of the property

APPLICATION:

The owner of the property or his/her authorized representative should submit a preliminary application to the Land Registry Directorate. In the event that the preliminary application is granted, both parties (or their representatives) should be present at the Land Registry Office and transfer ownership of the property.

Necessary Documents: oo Title deed of the property or information on village/ district, block, building plot, detachment oo Identification document or passport (and its approved translation) oo “Property Value Statement Document” to be provided from the relevant municipality oo Compulsory earthquake insurance (DASK) policy for the building oo 1 photo of the seller, 2 photos of the buyer oo Certified translator and 2 witnesses (In case one of the parties does not speak Turkish) oo If the POA was issued abroad, the original or certified copy of the POA and its approved translation

TAXES

Like in most other countries, the Turkish Government will be asking you to pay property tax for your property in Turkey.

The tax rate is based on the Property Value Statement Document declared by the municipality. The rates differ from 1/1000 to 6/1000 and it has to be paid in 2 installments in every 6 months. For example, you bought a house for 250.000 TL, and its value declared in the Property Value Statement Document is 100.000 TL, and your tax rate is 2/1000 then you will have to pay 100 TL property tax every 6 months.

OWNING A PROPERTY IN TURKEY AND RESIDENCE PERMITS

You do not need a residence permit to buy a house in Turkey; Even if you own a house, you can either enter the country with a tourist visa, or you can apply for a residence permit separately.

Other points to be noted by foreigners who wish to buy property in Turkey: oo First of all, the buyer should be from a country approved to make property purchases or limited in rem right in Turkey and meet the necessary conditions oo The buyer has to inquire with the Land Registry Directorate if there is any lien on the property, outstanding mortage mortgage payments, warrants for arrest, or any other obstacle which would prevent the transfer of ownership of the property oo If the application to buy property is rejected, it can be appealed at the relevant Regional Office of the Land Registry Directorate oo Do NOT make any down payment or sign any contract before making sure that you are 100% eligible to acquire property in Turkey

Av. Cihan Sonüstün is an attorney at law registered with the Istanbul Bar. This information is not exhaustive and not intended as legal advice. The author takes no responsibility for any action taken after reading this information. Legal advice should always be sought before any action is taken. For further information about this or any other issue, please contact c@sonustun.av.tr

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LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

RAISING SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE KIDS

FEATURE: KRISTINA WILFORE; PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR AND COURTESY OF KRASTINA ARANITASI

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hink global, act local – this is the family motto Krastina Aranitasi and her daughters adopted when moving to Turkey six years ago. With a little bit of effort they found plenty of opportunities to live that creed. The girls’ school was a perfect springboard for figuring out how to get involved in the community.

Now daughters Mimoza (14 years old) and Galina (7 years old) have leveraged this experience into designing their own passion projects for charity “When we came to Istanbul, once we settled in, it was important for us to get to know both the international and local community, and I thought at that moment that charity or social responsibility projects are a certain way to do that,” Krastina reported. As an IWI board member and school liaison she believes in fostering the community outside the classroom as an extension of learning opportunities for expat children and their parents.

Over the years they helped build a kindergarten in Silivri, volunteered with Pink Angeles (a previous IWI-funded initiative to support children with cancer) and worked with autistic children in Ulus and at the center in Beşiktas.

Older sister Mimoza taught her younger sister to read a few years ago, which sparked a love for storytelling and fantasy in Galina. Her recent initiative to write and sell books and donate the proceeds at the IWI-sponsored Bomonti Fun Day was sparked by the positive influence Mimoza has had on her sister’s sense of social responsibility to the community.

GALINA’S BOOKS “The Sea” is a story about three little fish and their fight with the evil fish Maney. “The Evil Witch and the Magic potion” is about a vile witch and how she was defeated by the people in the kingdom, and “Mermaid Kingdom,” a story about mermaids and their way of defeating the nasty king. A chapter book on zombies was marketed to appeal to boys – with fake blood on the cover.

“Galina did a few charity projects with Mimoza -- helping deliver school supplies to children in need and raising funds to build a sports salon in a school in Mardin -- then one day she said, ‘I’m seven now, it’s time for me to join the club’,” says Krastina.

A budding author, Galina was inspired to write several books with a strong theme of justice and the notion of good prevailing over the malevolent. She sold the books to her classmates at school, and donated the proceeds to Bomonti, the elder care home during this summer’s Bomonti Fun day, organized by IWI. Like all social responsibility initiatives, learning and giving is reciprocal. Krastina believes the girls have learned what it is like to work in a team and other skills that will be valuable to them in university and in their future professions.

Her advice to other expat families is to get involved in the local community as a strategy for integration by starting with your school community and expanding to organisations like IWI and others.

“There is so much need in the world, and so many children can be helped.”

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Sugar, an absolute must in modern life, dominates our diets in all sorts of attractive forms

BEWARE OF THE DANGER IN SUGAR! Excessive daily intake of sugar, which is over 1 tablespoon for women and 2 to 3 tablespoons for men, paves the way to serious diseases. In reality, even the most innocent-looking foods under various names contain spoonfuls of sugar. For example, while 5 sweet biscuits contain 3 tablespoons of sugar, the amount of sugar is 4 tablespoons in 100 grams of potato chips, 3 tablespoons in one chocolate coated wafer and 4,5 tablespoons in one simit!

Moreover, studies show that sugar, the use of which can lead to many diseases –ranging from diabetes to cancer-, is the food which causes the most addiction in the world. Nutrition and Diet Specialist Hande Seven of Acıbadem Fulya Hospital reveals the hidden, poisonous aspect of the sugar that dominates our diets and provides us with some important warnings and suggestions.

From obesity to cancer!

Sugar, which is in fact a source of energy for the body, can be almost as bad as poison when not used moderately. According to research, excessive sugar intake paves the road to many disorders, ranging from hypertension to diabetes and cardiovascular diseases to cancer. The latest studies reveal that one of the most prominent causes of obesity is sugar and sugar does not just improve the mood but also causes addiction.

Nutrition and Diet Specialist Hande Seven of Acıbadem Fulya Hospital states that sugar intake increases the risk for cancer and says, “Scientific studies conducted at molecular level indicate that cancerous cells use 50 times more sugar than healthy cells and that this enables such cancerous cells to reproduce faster in the body. Furthermore, the rising rates of incidence for obesity and diabetes, as well as the changes in blood sugar levels, which are all associated with excessive sugar intake, also increase the risk of individuals for developing cancer”. Dietician Seven, who underlines that this is why monosaccharides (simple sugars) such as table sugar, honey, cookies, confectionery, premade salad dressings and processed foods that contain fructose and corn syrup should be removed from the diet and adds, “If you just cannot give up sugar no matter what and just have to have foods like honey and jam in your life, make sure not to acquire more than 10% of your daily energy requirements from such sources. Although energy requirements vary per person, gender, level of activity and medical condition, we can still say that women should avoid consumption of foods with more than 1 tablespoon of sugar in them while men should avoid consumption of foods with more than 2 or 3 tablespoon of sugar”.

Fruit juices, ketchup, bread, yogurt, etc. – sugar is everywhere!

Avoiding sugar completely during daily life is nearly impossible. Pasta sauces, salad dressings, yogurt, ketchup, bakery products, fruit juices, baby food, etc. – sugar is in everything! Many processed foods that we put on our tables and eat heartily contain added sugars, on top of the sugar that is naturally present in them. Seven, who states that all foods that serve as sources of carbohydrates are also “sources of sugar” for the body and that the carbohydrates in foods have either simple or complex structures, says, “For instance, while carbohydrates in honey, jams, table sugar, molasses and fructose (fruit sugar) are simple carbohydrates, the ones in bread, pasta, rice, bulgur, legumes and bakery products such as simit are complex carbohydrates. The body spends more energy during digestion of complex carbohydrates. On the other hand, simple sugars are absorbed into the bloodstream as soon as they are consumed. While it is important for at least half of the daily energy requirements to be acquired from carbohydrate sources for purposes of eating healthy, what is more important is to prefer healthy “sources of sugar”.

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SPONSORED FEATURE Do not be fooled by the browncolor!

How about brown sugar, then? Brown sugar is acquired by mixing of white sugar crystals with sugarcane molasses at various ratios. The amount of energy and carbohydrates contained by brown sugar is similar to that of white sugar.

Seven, who states that this is why it is wrong to believe that brown sugar is healthy just by looking at its color, points out the studies which also show that foods and beverages that are marketed with the label “diet”, as well as diet desserts and sweeteners, also cause weight gain. This being the case, it is best to eat everything in its natural form. Fruits are foods that are rich in fructose, which is basically fruit sugar. Seven states that fruits contain simple sugars and it is essential to avoid excessive consumption of these as well, and adds, “While avoiding excessive consumption of fruits is critically important in reduction of the risk for obesity, cardiovascular diseases, diabetes and cancer, it should be noted that prevention of these diseases also depends on eating at least 2 to 4 servings of fruit a day because, in essence, fruits are a great source for vitamins and minerals. This fact also requires fruits to be eaten whole instead of being juiced and drank”.

We get sugar under many names Sugar can be present in the ingredients section of the label of a food we buy under many names! Therefore, it is essential to be careful and read product labels while shopping. Brown sugar, invert sugar, corn syrup, lactose, dextrose, malt syrup, fructose, maltose, fruit juice concentrate, glucose, table sugar, fructose corn syrup, sucrose, honey, sugarcane are only some of the said names. Furthermore, it is not easy to burn the calories from these sugars either. For example, 1 bowl of rice pudding contains an equivalent of six tablespoons of sugar and burning the calories from this requires a 40-minute, brisk walk.

A table which depicts the danger!

The amounts of sugar contained in some foods: 1 serving of fruit = 1,5 tablespoons of sugar 4 tablespoons of chickpea stew with meat = 1,5 tablespoons of sugar 2 cubes of table sugar = 1 desert spoon of sugar 1 bowl of rice pudding = 6 tablespoons of sugar 1 simit = 4,5 tablespoons of sugar 330 milliliters of a fizzy drink = 3 tablespoons of sugar 1 bowl of fruit yogurt = 2 tablespoons of sugar 1 chocolate-coated wafer = 3 tablespoons of sugar 2 slices of baklava = 4 tablespoons of sugar

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MY LIFE

1 bowl of crème caramel = 5 tablespoons of sugar 2 shots of syrup for adding into coffees = 1 tablespoon of sugar 1 medium-sized cup of caramel coffee = 2,5 tablespoons of sugar 200 milliliters of chocolate milk = 2,5 tablespoons of sugar Potato chips (100 grams) = 4 tablespoons of sugar 5 sweet biscuits = 3 tablespoons of sugar 1 medium-sized slice of cake = 3 tablespoons of sugar

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MILY FOR MY FA COOKING

S I MOVIE ACE S L P W E N G N R I VE OM TCH REED R WA SCO F I A T Y D S ICE M TO GE JU I I ORAN I

27.10.2016 14:50

LALE INTERVIEW

FEATURE: MONISHA KAR; PHOTOGRAPHY: CİHAN SONÜSTÜN (PORTRAITS), AND COURTESY OF NANA LIN

Entrepreneur Nana Lin is introducing Turkish consumers to the beautiful design and quality of Asian home goods through her company Cena Deco, and at the same time promoting awareness of her culture.

Monisha Kar reports

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LALE INTERVIEW

B

orn and raised in Taiwan, Nana Lin returned to her home country after completing a Master’s degree in the United States at the University of Denver. She had been working in a technology company as a Project Manager for several years when she was given an overseas assignment in the Istanbul office, and met her now husband and business partner, Cem Garagon.

In 2011 she moved back to Taiwan, but became restless with corporate life. She decided to volunteer in Bali for three months and taught English to children in a remote village. The founder of the school was from Indonesia and married a rich woman who was from that area. As a way of giving back to the community, they had built a school and invited foreigners to teach children English, and in turn, the teachers had a chance to experience local life. “The people were so poor, but so generous and friendly. One multi-generational family live in the same dwelling, there was no refrigeration, and people always offered you food and hospitality. They didn’t complain and were satisfied with what they had.”

Nana and her husband moved back to Turkey in 2013 and she decided to do an internship in Germany for 6 months as a business consultant. “During that time, we started to talk about the idea for opening our own business. We got married in the summer of 2014 and started planning the business at the end of that year. We opened Cena Deco last summer in 2015.”

but the attention to detail and hand-crafted nature results in a flawless finish and one-of-a-kind piece.

The other line we carry focuses on porcelain by 3Co. We started by selling their vases, and got good feedback, so started carrying their plates, teapots. They use very organic

materials, and the items are fired at a very high temperature which makes them very thin, yet extremely durable. The products have been selling well in the US, and are even being used by famous chefs, such as Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

Talk to us about doing business in Turkey Importing rules and the taxation rates can make business challenging. We are subject to KDV (value added tax), luxury tax, import taxes, import license fees, and certification by suppliers that you have passed an examination on items related to health or the environment.

How did you decide that you wanted to build a company around home décor and accessories?

My husband and I had the idea to start Cena Deco after visiting several exhibitions in Hong Kong and Taiwan and we saw these 2 designs, SEED and 3Co. After talking to the founders, we liked the products and their philosophies. Since Turkey is an emerging market, and there are so few Asian brands here, we decided we wanted to start selling their goods in the Turkish market.

One of the lines we carry is SEED Design lighting. It was founded 20 years ago in Taiwan and was inspired by Scandinavian design. There are small design details that make the products user friendly. One of our best-selling lamps is a lamp, a table and includes a charging station for your phone. Another one of our pendant lights has a reflector bulb protector that can be adjusted to moderate the amount of light that is emitted. Another popular overhead light fixture allows the user to change the orientation into either a linear or cross formation. We are also one of the first vendors to introduce concrete as a material in production. Concrete products can often reveal flaws such as air pockets or cracks,

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LALE INTERVIEW

While you wait for approval to bring your imports into the country, or wait for the exams and paperwork to be completed, you also pay inventory costs. And, depending on the time of year or other factors, there can be delays in processing times.

Turkish people like to negotiate, regardless of socioeconomic status, so it can be challenging to sell someone on the aesthetic value of a product if their priority is on getting the best deal for a product. Also, business relationships can be hard to develop here, but once made they are very strong.

When it comes to design, there is a greater emphasis on Scandinavian and Italian products. There is also a perception that anything made in Asia is cheap or poorly made. Even though they are perceived as high-quality, you rarely even see Japanese-designed products in the market here. So many times when we are presenting to potential clients, we have to educate people on Taiwan, Taiwanese brands, and the culture before we can even start to talk about our products.

though we may have a smaller selection of products, because other places carry so many products, they don’t carry a lot of stock. Because we have stock, we have the advantage of lead time.

I also believe less is more, and therefore the quality stands out when you look and touch the products we carry. The prices are mid to high range and the reason is because I want to sell people things that become part of their home – so that they can appreciate its beauty, and it improves their lifestyle.

I believe people are looking for something that is more boutique and that brings inspiration to their everyday lives.

The company is getting more coverage in décor magazines and with the expat community. Right now, we have consigned several of our products to various stores around Istanbul.

What makes Cena Deco unique?

We are small but flexible – our focus is on customer satisfaction. For lighting, many places don’t offer after-sales services, but we offer consultation and installation. Even

We have also been featured in the Turkish editions of Marie Claire Maison and House Beautiful, and RAF Design. I had a customer come in one day to buy a porcelain tea set because she had noticed it in not just one, but two different décor magazines and specifically sought us out to purchase it.

What do you like to do outside of work?

I am practicing my Turkish and I used to do a lot of yoga – but I’m taking a break from it right now. I love to travel. I just came back from a two-week trip in Central Europe, I went to Iran in January and was struck by the hospitality, culture, art, historical architecture and natural beauty of the country. I also traveled to Georgia recently.

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LALE INTERVIEW

When I was younger, I was really spontaneous. I couch-surfed and hitch-hiked before I got married. I was always looking for budget travel options because I think it is the moments along the way that make an experience meaningful as opposed to arriving at a destination.

As far as the business, I want to keep Istanbul as a base. We are planning to expand into Central Asia, the Middle East, and potentially Iran and North Africa. We went to several exhibits and trade shows this year and saw that there is a lot of potential in these other markets.

I remember I was in Slovakia and saw a lady hiking with her child and said – ‘I hope I can still do that when I have a baby.’

I want to share the world with my family because we forget to appreciate the small things that surround us.

I hope one day we can open a big shop and carry designs from all over Asia to showcase unique and beautiful products.

I want to spread awareness of Taiwan and Taiwanese and Asian brands and our culture as well.

What other plans do you have for the future?

Personally, friends in Asia don’t really know about Turkey and I want to promote a cross-cultural dialog between the regions. In the last year, there has been more news about unrest in the region, so I get upset because of the way Turkey is perceived in the mass media. I plan to start a blog in Chinese to write something on Turkey and focus on the more modern and personal aspects of Turkey – what people do, what do they like to do, where they like to go.

At the same time, there are perceptions that people in Turkey make about me and where I am from. People will ask me if I eat dogs, or mention some other stereotype. So, I will ask them, ‘Do bombs go off every day in Turkey?’ Of course they don’t - and that person might get offended - but then they realize my point.

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SPONSORED ARTICLE

Suit yourself

Sartoria Napoletana is a menswear haven where you can order tailor-made suits hand-stitched in Naples. Begüm Egeli Bursalıgil gets the lowdown from founding partner Enis İnci

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e’re in a secluded corner of Bebek, where Sartoria Napoletana’s tiny ̇ shop is a hive of activity. Enis İnci is busy consulting with a groom-to-be, and together they go over every detail of his suit, from which bow tie flatters his figure the most to the cut of his shirt and the model of his shoes.

Sartoria Napoletana is a bona fide craftsman’s workshop, a haven where you can find out everything you want to know about menswear and entrust yourself to experienced tailors. It’s not the type of place where people just “pop in,” as the clientele is currently comprised of people who heard about the

shop through word of mouth. Since Sartoria Napoletana operates by appointment only, you can rest assured that every customer gets the utmost level of attention and care.

only’ system. What’s most important to us is that the customer feels comfortable. That’s why we even do fittings at one o’clock at night and six o’clock in the morning.”

Sartoria Napoletana is a brand with Neapolitan roots. How did you decide to open up shop in Bebek?

“We offered freelance services to our Turkish customers for six years before opening our Bebek location last year. We wanted to have a permanent location away from the crowds.

In order to maintain the haute couture spirit, we chose not to open our shop in a shopping mall, and we employed a ‘by appointment

What’s your connection to Naples?

“All production is done in Naples, where we have a workshop of 130 people. In Italy, it’s part of the local culture for women to sew clothes for men, and our brand relies on Italian culture. In addition to our own label, we also produce collections for many different menswear brands around the world. We have shops in Milan and Erbil, and we’ll be opening another location in Dubai very soon.”

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SPONSORED ARTICLE Nowadays there are many Italian menswear brands in Turkey. What sets you apart?

“Everything is entirely hand-stitched.

Neapolitan tailoring is different from other styles of tailoring due to the climate: the need for summertime suits that don’t cause men to perspire forced tailors there to take creative measures long ago. After a great deal of trial and error, they fashioned suits that feel like ‘a second skin,’ as they say.

What makes this possible is the internal construction of the jacket, whose lightness owes to the impeccable design of the interlining. The construction of the shoulders is also completely different in Neapolitan tailoring.”

What’s your design and sewing process like?

“Our customers pick out the fabric of their choice and tell us about the type of suit they’re looking for. The secret to tailor-made clothing lies in understanding what’s on the

client’s mind beforehand and getting him or her to imagine the final product using the sample fabric. Afterward the fabrics are sent to Italy along with the client’s measurements and model selection.”

How long does it take to complete a suit?

“Our tailor comes to Istanbul for three-four days each month. We do one or two fittings per suit, and the final product is delivered within four or five weeks. In addition to suits, we also design individual jackets, suits, pants and shoes. Tailor-made clothes require attention to detail from both the tailor and the client – after all, they also have to set time aside for fittings, which in turn makes the end result all the more meaningful.”

What’s the perfect day-to-night look for a stylish man about town?

“A navy blazer jacket is the key piece in any man’s wardrobe, as it can be paired with

trousers or a pair of jeans to elevate any look.”

What are the biggest trends in menswear this season?

“Jackets with large plaid patterns are everywhere. There’s a strong vintage trend this season, with striped suits, doublebreasted jackets and pleated pants all making a comeback.”

Have you received any absurd requests?

“We have had customers bring in a photo of a suit by a world-renowned brand and ask us to not only create the same suit but to stitch the name of the brand on the tag, as well. Of course we have to turn them down. We only stitch the customer’s name or initials on the tag by request.” İnşirah Caddesi 21/A, Bebek. sartorianapoletana.com

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LALE LIFE

FEATURE: MONISHA KAR. PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

LOOKING OUT FOR MAN’S BEST FRIEND The pioneers of BU PAWS are bringing awareness to the plight of the city’s stray animal population and influencing how we interact and care for them. Monisha Kar paid them a visit

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n this urban landscape, there is a little haven tucked away in the woods behind Boğazıcı University. A short hike from the main campus and you encounter a crowd of furry, fourlegged faces. This is BU PAWS-a dog sanctuary and labor of love for the selfless volunteers who keep the place running year-round.

About 10 years ago, an informal shelter had been created by concerned faculty opposed to the idea of turning the stray animal population on campus over to the municipality.

However, due to lack of oversight, many of these dogs suffered from neglect and malnutrition. Dr. Neşe Bilgin, a professor of Molecular Biology and President of the Wildlife Conservation Commission recruited current Program Coordinator Defne Arsoy to help re-establish a safe space for them. For a year, Arsoy and Assistant Coordinator Ahmet Çolak worked on a volunteer basis, weathering harsh conditions as the sole providers of care and feeding for the animals under their charge.

What started as a grassroots effort has now come under the auspices of the Wildlife Conservation Commission, and formally recognized to receive donations through the BU Foundation. The sanctuary was officially formed in February 2016, and in March 2016, they started their Foster Family program where individuals who want to spend time with a dog, but can’t keep a pet, or who want to help improve the community and life for a stray dog can donate money towards the care and feeding of a specific dog. There are currently 39 foster families, many of whom come and spend time and give their love.

VOLUNTEERS MAKE THE DIFFERENCE

The volunteer staff has done a lot of work to understand the different dogs’ personalities and have them on specific schedules so as to maintain the atmosphere and mood of the sanctuary. For that reason, they are keeping the sanctuary population steady and not introducing new dogs. To date, 66 dogs call BU PAWS home.

All of the volunteers and foster families come for different reasons and all give and receive something unique and different to the environment.

Terri Rogers, a regular volunteer, joined to improve the quality of life of the dogs. “This has given me a place in the city, a purpose in my life to love and be loved – I have a lot of love to give. I am getting back something that I was missing for a long time.”

Of course, none of this could be possible without the dedication of the volunteers. Defne has a full time job and works at the sanctuary as a volunteer. Ahmet almost never leaves. Both of them do all of the cooking, which is typically a soup with chicken mixed with bread and pasta. To give you an idea of how much food is prepared and consumed on an average week, 400 kg of chicken bones and 150 kg of red meat bones are donated by local market places to go towards the dogs’ meals.

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LALE LIFE “I am proud I can help, every time I come, I want so badly to be useful.” Rogers considers herself a field worker and does whatever needs attending to that day – whether washing 17 dogs in a row until she can’t stand up straight, picking up stones, or doing laundry.

In return, Rogers has developed a deeper understanding and appreciation of these animals. “I learned in the US that when I had dogs, they were my pets – completely compliant, dependent. These dogs are independent free souls with their own hierarchy and schedules, and it is up to us to fit in. I’m not their master – I’m their friend. I learned this here. My relationship with dogs had always been master/pet, but it is totally different now.”

Liza Slay is another active volunteer. “I had started to take an interest in dogs because I wanted to buy dog houses.

I petitioned the municipality, but they rejected it. They are supposed to put up shelters, on the one hand they do take care of animals, but then it depends on who you talk to.”

Among her many contributions, Liza was instrumental in bringing the BU PAWS website to life - taking pictures and creating and maintaining content. The website is where individuals, groups and families can read each dog’s bio, see their picture, and choose a dog based on a match.

LOOKING AHEAD

In the near future, their primary target is to clean up and remove old garbage that has been dumped there, which includes everything from glass to old mattress. They also want to relocate the kennels to a shared location with better access to a parking lot for deliveries and transporting supplies. The group continues to bring awareness and educate faculty, staff and students on the plight of these animals, as well as how to interact with animals on the campus and also on the street. “Last year, we started participating in new student orientation. We gave an overview on animals and how to live together. We talked about common mistakes to avoid, how to interact with them – don’t jump, don’t overwhelm them, how to help a wounded animal, and informed them of the helpline,” said Bilgin

Future plans may include a seminar on dog psychology, and they would like to resurrect a program they used to have at the onsite kindergarten for the children of BU Faculty where they brought one of their friendliest dogs, Dede, to visit kids and teach them how to approach him.

Happily, they are attracting more corporate donors, which is a win-win for both organizations. The companies get a tax deduction in addition to getting positive press for their social responsibility activities, and BU PAWS receives more donations as well as awareness for the program.

And others have taken notice; the Metropolitan municipality wants to use the BU PAWS program as a model for their own shelters. Some people in the neighborhood take care of stray animals, but the municipality wants to create a more formal program for their stray population.

Liza Slay said, “It is in everyone’s best interest that we care for these animals. This program gives us hope for the future of shelters and stray pets.”

For more information on the program, to donate or get involved, you can refer to www.bupaws.com

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LALE GOURMET

FEATURE: VERENA RINGE. PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

COMBATTING HOMESICKNESS, ONE PLATE AT A TIME LE CUISTOT STUDIO IS A SMALL TRATTORIA SITUATED ON THE HIGH STREET OF FERAH EVLER. IT LIES BETWEEN ISTINYE PARK AND UPPER TARABYA. A POPULAR LOCATION FOR EXPATS AND LOCALS ALIKE, FREQUENT CUSTOMER VERENA RINGE TELLS US WHY IT IS A WELCOME ADDITION TO THE ISTANBUL DINING SCENE

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ven though it just opened in April of this year, Le Cuistot was established as a catering business four years ago.

This venue was started by Carl ‘Carlos’ Le-Cuistot as an online catering service, but due to the requests of his customers, who wanted a place to sit and sample Carlos’ fare while choosing their orders, the idea of a small trattoriarestaurant was born. It is now often filled to capacity.

that includes pork has to be special-ordered as this would not be available on the daily menu.

Firstly, Carlos offers fine food, whether you are dining in, taking food away, or need to place an order for a catered buffet. Your order can be bespoke based on the type of food you want and the quantity you need. Personal preferences are gladly accommodated, and Carlos has wonderful suggestions of his own. His customers include people from many nationalities and he caters for various consulates for parties up to 300 people.

This gourmet kitchen serves a popular four-course menu every Friday evening at a set price; Reservations are a must, as the café gets booked quickly due to its atmosphere and culinary excellence.

The bistro offers fresh international cuisine daily, specifically European, with emphasis on French food, though his Moroccan dishes are well worthy of note. In the mornings, delicious croissants and a variety of bread complete breakfast. For afternoons, the choice of fruit and chocolate tarts are mouth watering But, that is not all. If you want to have a quick meal at home, Carlos prepares and offers readymade food, such as lasagne or moussaka, to put in your oven immediately, or into your freezer for later. However, any food

Carlos himself is a chef of wide-ranging expertise and experience. After graduating from a hotel and restaurant management college in Belgium, he was offered work as a chef in Germany, where he quickly learned the German language. From there, Carlos went to Cyprus, as a different lifestyle and climate appealed to his sense of adventure. Now in Istanbul, his ever expanding business hardly keeps pace with his many creative ideas and his passion for cooking.

Recently he added homemade jams, bottled sauces and soups to his wares on offer. These products are all cooked by him in his restaurant kitchen. Furthermore, his fluency in French, German and English makes it easy to help the expat communities feel at ease there, as his customers from all over Istanbul will testify.

In preparation for the festive holiday season, Carlos is developing special dishes for the upcoming Christmas buffet orders and his take away menu. This superbly accommodating trattoria is unfortunately closed on the

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LALE GOURMET Christmas Eve (December 24), but their beautifully decorated yule-log can be bought right up until the date of your Christmas parties.

The trattoria is small, but very inviting. Just looking at his display behind the glassed-in counter makes you sorry that you can’t eat everything at once.

PHOTOGRAPHY EXHIBITION

“Istanbul Delight”

Lately, Carlos has upgraded his decor to include small exhibitions of real artwork. At present you can admire and buy limited edition artwork of the internationally successful photographer Annette Fleck. There is also a cosy corner of the shop filled with shelves of books printed in several languages.

You can sit, relax and peruse, or even borrow a book to take home.

Le Cuistot and Carlos add a delightful culinary diversity to the cuisine of Istanbul and once a customer, you can’t wait to return and enjoy the light-hearted atmosphere and hospitality of this bistro.

LE CUISTOT STUDIO Ferahevler Mahallesi, Adnan Kahveci Caddesi, No 108 Sarıyer +90 212 223 83 55 www.le-cuistot.com

by Annette Fleck Oct 1st - Nov 15th 2016 Le Cuistot Studio

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LALE ART

FEATURE: VERENA RINGE. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ELGIZ MUSEUM

THE MELTING POINT

After coming off of a successful tour with the Venice Biennale, artist Aslı Kutluay's thought-provoking Melting Point is now showing in Istanbul. Verena Ringe shares her impressions

T

he Elgiz Museum has been featured prominently in Lale magazine recently, and for good reason! This is an exciting new modern museum with an interesting permanent private collection of the Elgiz family, who generously allow the public to view samples of international artists rarely seen in Turkey. Their support, through exposure of young Turkish artists, makes it possible for a follower of contemporary modern art in Turkey to stay abreast of the names and works of up-and-coming artists. Of course, there are works by many established artists on display - one of these is Aslı Kutluay.

Aslı’s work combines futuristic design with the flow of pure modern art using the mediums of sculpture, paint, and with this exhibition, art installations.

The current installation, “Melting Point” is a joint venture between the curator Vittorio Urbani, the project manager Deniz Taner Gökҁe, and the artist Aslı Kutluay, with global warming at its centre. It was first shown at the Architectural Biennale in Venice and travelled through Italy, eventually showing in a cave at Alta Mura. It has now reached Istanbul and is being presented under the name “On the Road,” as part of the Istanbul Design Biennale. There are changes from city to city, like the progression of global warming itself. The installations in

Istanbul have evolved from stiff wire to more subtle netting, and include light installations which change hues from red to orange. This symbolises a step towards optimism.

Her interpretation of the twisted fence of opening and closing wires in “Wirenets” suggest imprisonment, freedom and escape all at once through their vibrant colours and perhaps also suggests the mind imprisoned with only narrow escape loops. All of them “dream-catchers” in the purest form.

With the threat of terrorism and war looming and present, Aslı’s display of elegant, burnt furniture “Aftermath” brings the viewer up close to the everyday realities of millions of people.

But here also, a visual optimism of the ever-present crisis of global warming is brought to our attention. Aslı presents these images with astounding ease, incorporating the richness of present day life and it’s changing values, thereby creating new metaphors of design and art.

at the Elgiz Museum from October 25 through November 20. Her work connects all aspects of modern art world-wide and is a must-visit to appreciate the feel and atmosphere of present day vibrant artwork.

Aslı Kutluay studied at the Middle East Technical University in Ankara and Bilkent University, and earned a Fine Arts Master’s Degree. Her works are represented in galleries around the world.

For more information on the exhibit and the museum, visit elgizmuseum.org

Aslı Kutluay is a Turkish artist of international renown. She has held successful exhibitions in the past, not only in Turkey, but in many other countries such as Germany, France, Canada and the US. She is presenting her works from the Venice Biennale

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LALE WELLNESS

THE POWER OF EMOTIONAL DETOX FEATURE: REYHAN ELMASRI. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF REYHAN ELMASRI

The process of detoxing has become increasingly popular in the last few years; we go on juice fasts to cleanse our body, we purge our homes of clutter, we rein in our financial spending habits and we let go of relationships that are destructive, but few of us take the time to manage our emotional well-being. Corporate Trainer and Well-being Consultant Reyhan Elmasri talks about the importance of emotional care on our overall health

W

hat comes to your mind when I say ‘health?’ Almost everybody says ‘nutrition’, ‘check-ups’, ‘vaccines’, ‘diet’, ‘exercise’, ‘hygiene’, ‘doctors’, ‘hospitals’....

Here is the definition of ‘health’ according to the World Health Organization (WHO): “Good health is a state of complete physical, social and mental well-being, and not merely the absence of disease or infirmity. Health is a resource for everyday life, not the object of living, and is a positive concept emphasizing social and personal resources as well as physical capabilities.” It means holistic health and wellbeing While most of us naturally take care of our physical health and social well-being, when it comes to our emotional health, it is often the most neglected of the three areas. It seems there is a big gap between the WHO health definition and our general attitude towards mental and emotional health. If we knew the effect of our thoughts and emotions on our health, we would give them more importance.

THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN EMOTIONAL WELLBEING AND PHYSICAL HEALTH

It is not presumptuous to say that many physical ailments arise from the negative energy in our body. They start with the effect of our negative emotions and thoughts and then are reflected in our body as sickness. There are hundreds of books and countless research that show the effect that emotional health has on illness. Research shows that optimistic patients are healed much faster and more easily than pessimistic ones. There are real and permanent benefits that come with emotional healing.

HOW EMOTIONS TRANSLATE TO OUR THOUGHTS AND ACTIONS

Motivation is a key factor in our thoughts and actions. When our mood is low, we cannot think clearly, make the best decisions or use our current talents and knowledge in a productive way, and this can affect us in both our personal and professional lives. In the fast pace of our current lifestyle, we tend to see ourselves and others like a delivery box; the real value and our true nature is on the inside, but we don’t often take the time to look beyond the surface of what is presented to us.

Whatever the relationship is with your partner, kids, friends or your boss - understanding yourself and others by building emotional empathy brings greater harmony to all interpersonal interactions.

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EMOTIONAL DETOX AND CARE

For deep trauma, suppressed feelings, fears, excessive stress and anxiety, you should seek professional help.

However, we can all take daily steps to manage and administer our own emotional care, whether by undergoing emotional detoxification, or through other measures. Just as there is ongoing maintenance required to sustain your health and weight after a diet, there are activities you can perform to preserve your emotional wellness.

Below is a clinically proven method to help you relieve your stress on a daily basis: oo Recall an incident which has caused stress or is bothering you oo Sit in a comfortable position and relax.

Close your eyes, and bring the incident to your mind without getting lost in it oo Check the effect it is having on you.

How much does it disturb you? oo First of all, accept that this has happened. And let it stay somewhere in a corner inside you oo Then, turn all of your focus to your breathing.

Only concentrate on your breathing by enjoying each centimetre of your inhale and exhale oo At each and every inhale, imagine that you are inhaling the joy of life, success, love, abundance - whatever you wish oo At each and every exhale, release all the negative thoughts and emotions inside of you oo Make this wonderful, vital journey that you have completed thousands of times every day with consciousness this time oo Forget about everything you have to do – enjoy being present in this moment oo Continue this sequence for a couple of minutes oo Keep your eyes closed and imagine any remnants of this incident as grey pieces of clouds floating in front of your eyes oo Take a deep breath, blow the clouds and send them away oo Take one more deep breath and send any remaining traces of the incident away by blowing with a strong exhale oo Repeat once more oo Feel inner peace replacing the memories and feelings of the incident oo Now open your eyes very slowly carrying the same nice feeling into your day Stay with love & light!

Reyhan Elmasri is a Corporate Trainer and Well-being Consultant who practices in Turkey and Dubai. She provides services to a long roster of multinational clients related to employee well-being, corporate reputation, employee satisfaction and qualitative market research.

She is a certified Breathing Coach, Reiki Master and holds various Energy Healing Qualifications. She also delivers emotional detox programs which help people achieve greater levels of general healing and consciousness. She can be reached at www.reyhanelmasri.com

27.10.2016 14:50

PALMYRA REDISCOVERED

T

John Henry Haynes

by Robert G. Ousterhout. Virtually unknown today, John Henry Haynes (1849–1910) may be regarded as the father of American archaeological photography. His photographic odyssey took him from Athens to Istanbul, across Anatolia, and ultimately to Mesopotamia. In a landmark study reissued with additional photographs published for the first time, Ousterhout rediscovers Haynes’s career and assesses his unique blend of artistry and documentation.

2

yapi kredi selahattin giz collection (bottom right); alice greenway (top

he Syrian city of Palmyra – known as ‘the Pearl of the Desert’ – was one of the most important cultural centres of the ancient world.

A key stop on the Silk Road, it was a vital link between the East and the West, and a prize fought over by successive conquering armies.

European adventurers began exploring Palmyra’s priceless Roman ruins in the 17th century, but it wasn’t until the advent of photography in the 19th century that the public became aware of its scale and majesty. In 1885, the sight of Palmyra astounded members of the Wolfe Expedition as they journeyed home from Mesopotamia. The group’s American photographer, John Henry Haynes, documented the monumental temples, tombs and colonnades in more than a hundred invaluable images.

Since then, Haynes and his work have largely been forgotten, and the forces of the self-styled Islamic State have destroyed the key monuments of this worldrenowned site, including the glorious Temple of Bel. Haynes’s images of Palmyra – published here for the first time – are all the more poignant.

JOHN HENRY HAYNES

A Photographer and Archaeologist in the Ottoman Empire 1881–1900

R G. O

PALMYRA 88

The Wolfe Expedition and the Photographs of John Henry Haynes

B A  R G. O

November, December 2016

36 IWI layout Autumn 2016.indd 2-3 Lale-NOV-DEC-NEW.indd 36

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LALE SPECIAL OFFER

Book offer ARTS OF THE ISLAMIC WORLD AUCTION LONDON OCTOBER 2016

Now accepting consignments

A rare Iznik lavender-ground pottery matara, Turkey, late 16th century Ex-collection Octave Borelli Bey (1849-1911) Estimate £40,000–60,000. Sold for £389,000 Enquiries +44 (0)20 7493 5113 benedict.carter@sothebys.com 34–35 New Bond Street, London W1A 2AA sothebys.com/islamic

CORN COVER_54.indd 1

November, December 2016

ISSUE FIFTY-FOUR 2016

John Henry Haynes (Cornucopia Books, TL100) and Palmyra 1885 (Cornucopia Books TL90) are both available post-free worldwide, with special 20% discounts, from cornucopia.net/store/books

54

LANDMARKS OF VAN . GENTILE BELLINI . KÜÇÜKSU KASRI . ISTANBUL FLORA . SWIMMING THE BOSPHORUS

by Benjamin Anderson and Robert G. Ousterhout, is the first published record of the five fruitful days that Haynes spent in Syria’s ancient desert city, whose most important monuments were destroyed by the self-styled Islamic State in 2015.

CORNUCOPIA

Palmyra 1885

CORNUCOPIA Cornucopia Turkey for Connoisseurs

Issue 54 2016

DIVE INTO SUMMER

SWIMMING THE BOSPHORUS VENTURE TO VAN

A 42-page celebration of the lake, the landscapes, the monuments

PLANT-HUNTING IN ISTANBUL The city’s last wild places

Plus A pocket tour of Aegean sites The wedding-cake pavilion

31/05/16 13:01

Cornucopia Magazine is available from Robinson Crusoe, Denizler, Patika, Homer, Eren, Pandora, D&R and other good bookshops (TL40). For special Cornucopia offers for IWI members, including books and post-free gift subscriptions, visit cornucopia.net/iwi-offer 3 37 16/10/16 17:19

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

ÜSKÜDAR REVEALED Istanbul has the distinction of being the only transcontinental city in the world. Sitting both in Europe and Asia, the district of Üsküdar offers a more laid-back vibe in contrast to its European neighbours across the Bosphorus. Monisha Kar crosses over to delve into this coastal corner of the city

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

I

’ve been in Istanbul for a year, and as much as I get out and about, I haven’t even begun to scratch the surface of this over 5000 square km city. Living on the western edge of the Istanbul metropolitan area, it can be hard enough getting into the “city center” on an average day, let alone crossing the Bosphorus to see how the other side lives.

As a result, you could easily live in a bubble and miss the opportunity to experience the diversity of this great city. I decided to expand my geographical boundaries, and set my sights on exploring Üsküdar.

This district is home to over half a million people. And the name of the neighbourhood is supposedly derived from Byzantine times where the word ‘Skoutarion’ described the leather shields, or ‘scutum’ that the guards in the area used. Over time, visitors to the area, called it “Eksüdar” or “Escutaire.”

There are several ways to get to Üsküdar from the European side. I happen to be in Beyoğlu for a class and decide to take a quick bus ride to the Beşiktas Iskele and catch a ferry to the other side. I am happy to see a ferry clearly marked as heading to Üsküdar, and boarding passengers. The views on both coasts are spectacular, and it is a nice change of scenery to be out in the elements, hearing the water, feeling the sun on your face and wind in your hair as opposed to traveling on a crammed bus or metro.

Ten minutes later I arrive at the Üsküdar Iskele and the area is buzzing with activity. It is a nice day, so just as many people are walking hurriedly as strolling or sitting leisurely passing their time. When it comes to travel, I sway between over planning and winging it, and since I’m known to get lost often, I justify my lack of agenda today to living in the moment so that I can discover some hidden gems. I start walking south on the sahil passing Mihrimah Sultan Cami and the meydan on my left. As I walk, I notice a large sign and tent for what appears to be an antiquarian book festival and decide to check it out. I’m thrilled to see the stallholders and collectors rifling through books, posters and retro postcards of movie actors and actresses.

Emerging into the sunlight, I continue south on the sahil towards Şemsi Paşa Mosque, which was also designed by Mimar Sinan and opened in 1581. While small relative to his other work – the beautiful waterfront setting complements the mosque without being overpowering. There are several popular tea gardens nearby that are packed, even on a weekday afternoon. The combination of people watching and the scenery of the opposite shore is captivating. There

Opposite page: A series of steps to navigate the steep streets Top left: Flower seller by Üsküdar Iskele Bottom left: Şemsi Paşa Camii Top right: View of hilly residential area of Üsküdar from sahil Bottom right: Karadavut Paşa Camii

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD are many men standing along the shore with a fishing rod in hand, waiting for a bite. Further down, there are waterside cafes where more people are lounging with tea and enjoying each other’s company. Interspersed among the many simit vendors are women dressed in colourful, clashing patterns.

They hold loose flowers in their hands, setting their sights on the couples in the hopes they can persuade the men to buy a flower or two for their beloved. In front of the famous Kız Kulesi (Maiden’s Tower), a bride and groom pose for their wedding photos. This is as far south as I am interested in venturing today, as up ahead I see a big port and not much else. If you happen to be down this way and want a bite to eat, well-known Filizler Koftecisi has one of their branches located here. The restaurants has two levels and a terrace where diners can enjoy a view not only of the Maiden’s Tower, but of Eminönü and Sultanahmet as well.

As I head back towards the meydan, I look to the hills on my right and notice the new construction side by side with the traditional Ottoman wooden houses which are falling into disrepair. I feel a sense of loss for the craftsmanship and design that went into these structures. Given the earthquakeprone geography and demands for housing in such a concentrated urban area, I understand the need for high rises and seemingly sturdier homes. Yet, the endless miles of generic concrete buildings in this city makes me keen for an architectural renaissance.

and white Iznik tile and is apparently quite stunning. There are approximately 200 mosques in Üsküdar, and this seems like an interesting trek, so I start my ascent. This is a busy commercial area, and I love walking the wide boulevards full of shoppers. I pass another small traffic circle with a Pazar and a cute watch tower. I cut through that area and turn off to Cavuşdere Cd. You can see the new Üsküdar Belediye building here, and it looks impressive. As I walk, the street gets more calm and quiet. There are quite a few hardwaretype stores and the only other scenery is the exposed, dirt-covered side of a hill on my left. I swallow my pride and refer to the app on my phone to navigate my way. So far so good, and that is when I start to see all these streets named ‘Çinili’….Çinili Cami Sk, Çinili Kulhan Sk, Çinili Hamam Sk, Çinili Mescit Sk. My map says I’m not at the Cinili Camii, but to my right I spy the top of a mosque, and I decide I know

better than the GPS and turn down Çinili Cami Sokak towards what I believe to be the tiled mosque.

Not so! It was another mosque complex called Valide-i-Atik Camii, and I peek inside. The courtyard is a little rundown, but there is a charming garden area where several men are chatting. As I enter the mosque, I run into a friendly worshipper who wants to make conversation with me and I attempt to communicate in my broken Turkish what I am doing there. It turns out it was the last major work by Mimar Sinan. It was completed in 1583 and built for Nurbanu Sultan, the Venetian-born wife of Selim II, and the mother of Murat III. It was a nice detour, but my destination awaited, and I was off again to find the Çinili Hamam and Çinili Mosque.

I finally pass the Çinili Hamam which is a very historic and

I eventually make it back to the meydan area and walk up Hakimiyeti Milliye Cd. where I pass the Yeni Valide Camii on my right. I walk a little further and pass a traffic circle at which point I take Dr. Fahri Atabey Cd. and decide I am going to visit Cinili Cami. The interior of the mosque is covered in blue

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD Opposite page top left: Interior of Valide-i-Atik Camii Opposite page bottom left: Ottoman timber house Opposite page top right: Seaside cafes near Maiden’s Tower Opposite page bottom right: Clock Tower with Hacı Bedeli Mustafa Efendi Camii in the background Above: Maiden’s Tower Below: Markets on Atlas Sokak near Mihrimah Sultan Camii

famous - not to mention reasonably priced. This hamam was commissioned in the 1640s by Kösem Sultan, the wife of Sultan Ahmet I, during the building of the nearby Çinili Camii (Tiled Mosque). I continue further and see corrugated metal surrounding what is supposed to be Çinili Camii. The whole mosque appears to be under renovation and I’m utterly disappointed. Undeterred, I like the look of the street and make my way up Allame Cadessi, hoping I discover something interesting, and I do. There appears to be a walled off church, which I later find out is called Surp Garabed Ermeni Kilisesi (Church of St John the Baptist). Thought no

one is certain of the year it was built, it has been around in some form since at least 1555, and is one of the oldest Armenian churches in Istanbul. This too appears to be under renovation and inaccessible to visitors.

It was time to make my descent back towards the Iskele, I still wanted to go inside the Mihrimah Sultan Camii.

As I walk, I hear the adhan from the nearby mosques staggered in an almost call and response fashion, and it gives me goosebumps to hear it in such close proximity, and in succession. On my way, I see a blue awning with the words ‘Üsküdar Balıkçılar Çarşısı’ written on it, so I have to investigate. It is bustling with vendors selling fresh fish, dried and fresh fruits and vegetables, and rotisserie chickens.

Once I exit the gauntlet, I am in a maze of narrow streets and alleys full of shops. It feels like I have discovered something special, although, its existence is obvious to everyone else.

Continuing on Atlas Sokak towards Selmani Pak Cadessi, I spy the famous eatery Kanaat Lokantası with its long glasscovered buffet filled with fresh savoury and sweet dishes. It is open early, and popular with locals as well as visitors and worth a visit. From the Lokanta, I can see Mihrimah Sultan Camii up a short street. Opened in 1548, it is another granite and marble Mimar Sinan mosque. It is one of two mosques built by Mihrimam Sultan, the daughter of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, and wife of Grand Vizier Rustem Paşa, and one of the best known landmarks in Üsküdar.

This is my last stop of the day before boarding the Marmaray back to the European side. Although there are many more things to see and experience in Üsküdar, that just means I have more to discover on my next visit. Sometimes it pays to get lost.

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LALE TRAVEL

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: VERENA RINGE

A VISIT TO

BODRUM

OUTSIDE OF THE SUMMER SEASON Bodrum is mostly known for its hot climate, discotheques and crowded beaches. But in autumn, winter and spring, this is the ideal place to relax and have a short or long break from the hectic pace of life in the big cities. Verena Ringe reports on visiting in the off-season

B

odrum has amazing weather in the spring and autumn. Of course, it could rain, which after all, is very necessary for the vegetation. But on most of those days, rain means small showers that are over quickly.

Nevertheless, these rains can also be extremely sudden and heavy, like a downpour, causing small flash floods in the narrow, channel-like old streets of the old town. It has been reported that water can rush downhill at high speeds and depths that range from above the ankles to knee-deep.

Adults have been known to be swept off of their feet, so venturing in the rain here is not without danger. The cautious visitor will find shelter in a friendly doorway or a relatively level lane. As suddenly as these heavy rains occur, as quickly they pass. But the unwary could be soaked to the skin.

The real winter rains in January and February are not as heavy, but can be relentless, lasting a week or more. There are many days of sunshine in winter, but it is recommended

to check the weather forecast before booking a holiday in Bodrum at that time. Autumn and spring days can bring bright sunshine, where everyone sits outside in shirtsleeves and, with a bit of luck, with their feet in the still warm seawater, sipping tea or beer. Locals play tavla and meet friends, and the atmosphere is one of relaxation. By autumn, the tourist rush is over, and in spring, it has not yet begun so everybody seems to have time on their hands for a friendly chat.

Even in winter it is possible to hire small boats to sail, motor or row to explore the coast by sea, whether alone or with a party of friends. The diving schools are open all year round and many clubs book lessons or boats and diving gear during winter.

With half of the shops closed, and sunbathing and beach parties not an option in the off-season, the question is ‘what to do?’

The centre of Bodrum in winter undoubtedly revolves around the castle of St. Peter. This is by far the largest crusader’s castle along the Turkish coast, and is very well maintained. It was founded by the Knights Hospitallers in the 15th Century and built primarily with the stones and marbles found from the nearby mausoleum of Halicarnassus. One of the wonders of the ancient world, it was built as a tomb for the king Mausolus in 355 B.C. It is easy to feel the medieval atmosphere along the gateways, winding stairs, and on the terraces beside the impressive walls, open gardens and courtyards. Take your time and sit on the battlements which have a view over the harbour and the islands over the sea. The castle also houses an underwater archaeological museum which displays a ship and its cargo sunk long ago one stormy night off the Turkish coast.

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From the castle walls, you can take a walk along the harbour breakwater and have a great view back to the castle buttresses and foundations rising out of the sea and the rocks. Sit on the rocks and enjoy some rays from the winter sun, or walk to the light-beacon at the harbour entrance, within close sight of incoming sailing vessels and moored yachts. Enjoy the semicircle of the harbour and the small, white houses and winding streets of old Bodrum as the sun sinks behind the hills.

fish on soap dishes. Their colours and cheerfulness will make you smile. There are also some restaurants whose terraces are on the edge of the shore with spectacular views back to the castle and the sea. You can amble straight along until this opens onto a promenade and beach.

The promenade is lined with a beach on one side, and on the other side with cafes and bars, broken by narrow entrances, receding to even narrower lanes, leading to whitewashed houses with small yards and orange trees growing over the walls. Though not wide enough to allow a car, nevertheless, care is needed whilst exploring as mopeds and bicycles may speed around tight corners. Visitors may sit on the beach on comfy chairs allowing their feet into or out of the sea with drinks or food served from the bars behind. At the end of

the beach, the promenade continues around the peninsula with the seasonal quietness of the famous discotheque “Halikarnas” and ends at the docking pier for huge liners, also mainly empty in winter.

The square just in front of the castle has some of the oldest cafes and tea shops in Bodrum. Take for instance the “Denizciler Kahvesi.” Here, as of old, the locally based captains of the traditional gulettes (sailing crafts), which are on hire for blue tours, meet and make deals, gossip and spend leisurely time drinking small cups of strong coffee, equally strong tea or some beer. It is a favourite meeting place for locals and you are fee to bring your own cakes or böreks along to eat.

From the square you dive into the narrow streets just beginning behind the small mosque. It is the street most packed in summer with tourists, as it is filled with shops for souvenirs, brick-a-brack, local artwork and handicraft, boutiques and ice cream shops. Quite a lot of these will be closed over the winter. The most noteworthy of these shops is one of glassware of typical handmade Bodrum style: orange fish on water glasses, yellow fish on bowls and many

The urge to discover more of Bodrum may overcome you and is indulged best by a walk along the harbour. Here you can admire the splendid sailing vessels moored for the winter, packed side by side like sardines in a tin. Halfway along the harbour you can turn up into the maze of small streets and lanes, where the oldest and most authentic parts of Bodrum reside. The famous blue doors and window-frames can be found here with stairs leading everywhere and to nowhere.

The local, bushy orange, pink and red plants and roses climb along walls and houses. Immaculate yards and balconies almost shimmer with white walls in the sun, and offer many shades of blue, pink and violet in cloudy weather. Among the winding lanes is the archaeological site of the mausoleum.

Unfortunately, only the foundations remain. You continue trekking up and up until you find yourself on the busy road from that connects Bodrum to the rest of the Bodrum Peninsula. Directly across this busy main traffic-artery is the old theatre with the best view to be had over Bodrum. Along the rows of seats, choose your favourite angle and enjoy the scene before you.

The coastline, the old castle fortifications, the breakwater of the harbour and further travels your gaze over the glittering blue waters to the island of Kos. Should you be in the theatre on a cloudy day, Bodrum can unfold the drama of purple clouds travelling at great speed, creating a chessboardpattern over the bay of brightness and deepest shadow.

Opposite page top: Bodrum castle in winter Opposite page bottom:Bodrum Harbour Top left: Bodrum Castle from harbour Middle left: View from promenade Bottom left: Lane with motorcycles Top right: Winding lane

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LALE TRAVEL the centre, you can still enjoy the tranquil feeling of old times.

The harbour areas are mainly as they have always been, with children clambering from boat to boat and fishing with lines and hooks.

Of all the beautiful seaside villages, Gümüşlük is considered the most beautiful. The ancient name of this was Myndos and this was the outermost safe harbour for the mariners of old. There are many ruined stonework that are easy to spot. As most old harbours along the Mediterranean coast, the harbour is a semicircular beach with natural stone breakwaters for protection.

Along this area are now a series of restaurants on the water’s edge with unhindered views to a tiny islet with antique stonewalls. A semi flooded walk-way invites you to roll up your pants and gird your skirts and wade across through knee-deep sparkling clear water.

The other side of the harbour has a beautiful sandy beach to stroll along, with a few tea-gardens offering beverages. In summer this is a favourite bathing beach, but off-season you have the beach almost to yourself.

All over the Bodrum area, and in Bodrum itself, the ruins of old windmills dominate the most windy ridges of the landscape. Their whitewashed, round sturdiness can be seen from far away and can easily be visited along the roadsides.

Bodrum is situated on the narrow bottleneck of the Bodrum peninsula. This area is notable for its outstanding beauty and history. A trip to the numerous fishing villages-turned holiday resorts is pure pleasure thanks to glittering vistas of the bright blue sea and the heady scent of pine forests. Go by car along the coast to some of the very charming old fishing villages. Nowadays, the old core is surrounded by more modern houses, holiday-home complexes and hotels. But at

Akyarlar has a small, but locally busy, harbour associated as all small old fishing villages along the Bodrum Peninsula, with a village cafe right behind the boats, where locals like to sit for tea and a chat and backgammon or chess games might last for hours. The sandy beach is narrow, but in winter also a restful walk.

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LALE TRAVEL

Gündoğan is very similar to Akyarlar, in that all along the old village waterfront, there are some old stone houses right on the beach. But the road there leads through spectacular rockformations.

There are many more beautiful places for you to find; small protected harbours, old houses, fields of spring flowers, sandy beaches and restaurants and cafes with very diverse and plentiful local food to be tried at leisure.

In the off-season, far from the madding crowd, you can make this peninsula your very own.

Opposite page top left: Vista along the coast road Opposite page bottom left:Small boats in harbour with children playing Opposite page top right:Gümüşlük Harbour Opposite page bottom right: Gümüşlük harbour statue with walkway Top: Empty beach in winter Bottom left: Old stone houses along the village beach Bottom right:Flowers everywhere!

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LALE CALENDAR Every month the IWI hosts many fun cultural and lifestyle events. Here is what’s coming up as we welcome winter.

Monday

November 2016

Tuesday

Business Studio

7 Krav Maga Class

Asian Side Coffee

Wednesday

Thursday

1

2

8 Grand Bazaar

9

Rooftop

14 Pera Palace Tour 15

Friday

Saturday

3

5

6

10 Elgiz Fugitive

11

12

13

17

18 Grand Bazaar

19

20

25

26

27

Shadow Exhibition

16 Wine Tasting

Rooftop 2

European Side Coffee 21 Kandilli Coffee

22

23

28 Whirling Dervish 29

30

and Culture

Ebru Workshop

Sunday

4

Hakart Shopping 24

Evening

Monday

December 2016

Tuesday

5

Wednesday

6 Christmas Lunch

Thursday

Friday

Saturday

Sunday

1

2

3

Christmas Festival 4

7 Gingerbread House 8

9

10

11

Workshop

12 Asian Side Coffee 13

14 European Side

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

Coffee

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FEATURE: VERENA RINGE PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF GRAPHICSTOCK

LALE EVENTS

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING IN ISTANBUL For those who celebrate, Christmas is a time for friends, family, parties and giftgiving. Verena Ringe shares her tips for making the most of this festive season and where to stock up on those things you might be missing from home

S

hopping in Istanbul can be an exciting, tiring, amazing and funny experience, and Christmas time is no exception. Let us start with the essentials decorations. Turkish people love to decorate, the more tinsel the better. It has to glitter, to be accepted. Christmas lights will hang along many shopping streets and in numerous windows.

In this Muslim country, it is amazing how many Christian Christmas symbols are to be found in so many homes.

Because of television and more Turks living abroad and being bombarded with this lovely glittering world of Christmas decorations, it had to be used and copied. So now Christmas trees are called New Year trees, and everybody believes that we Europeans celebrate New Year one week early, as it is inconceivable that the tree is a Christian Christmas symbol.

This makes finding a suitable tree no problem. But generally it is of the artificial kind. Real trees can be obtained through some florists and garden centres.

Next are the baubles, stars and fancy little figures of Santa, angels or elves. Big supermarkets have a few shelves reserved for that in December, including tree lights, light chains for windows and illuminated snowflakes. Some of the best places for almost everything is Bauhaus, Koҁtaş, or you might plan to branch off from the spice market into the always impossibly crowded Tahtakale Lane. There you get absolutely everything, including Christmas serviettes, ribbons and bright wrapping paper. Also along that narrow street are many shops offering nuts and dried fruit and chocolate and sugar decorations for your home baking. Should you need biscuit cut-out shapes, no problem, there are stars, trees, bears, Santas, angels etc. Plan enough time, this is not the place to rush or get stressed and you will have a lot of fun, choosing, talking and discovering. Or you could just go to IKEA. It is possible, of course, to buy presents from chain stores in all the nice shopping malls and boutiques. But why not buy something local? Silk scarves or pyjamas from Bursa, famous for their silk craft and industry, or big and fluffy towels for the hamam are good choices. Backgammon boards decorated with mother of pearl in the traditional style, a book in English with photos of old Istanbul, or the textiles and fashions of the Ottoman Empire from Remzi Bookstore are also nice gifts.

Small paintings, watercolours or prints of Istanbul can be found in small galleries all over town.

Now to Christmas dinner. Your turkey, goose or duck is best ordered well in advance. Make sure your local butcher remembers the date. He might think you made a mistake and you mean New Year. So remind him at least a day before. I

tell you what happened to me last year. A chicken liver pate was planned for starters for my Christmas dinner of 8 people.

One kg was needed. My very nice and helpful butcher could not imagine what I might want to do with 1 kg of liver, so he halved my order. Not enough for my needs and no more chicken liver was to be had locally on that day. I explained my recipe and my very helpful butcher began to phone around.

Which butcher in the neighbourhood might have any liver?

One hour later the second half of my order was delivered to my doorstep with many apologies. Where they found it, I don’t know, but is was fresh and good and the dinner was saved since I had no plan B. If you want pork, you go to the “Balɪk Pazarı” in Beyoğlu.

There is a German butcher, Şütte, who takes orders for pork and has pork ham and sausages. Eataly in the Zorlu Centre is also an option.

Cheeses and shortbread, marzipan and toffees and chocolate Santas are always available at Macro supermarket. So are chestnuts in syrup and real salami.

The Christmas bazaar organised by the IWI is on Sunday 4th December at the Marriott Hotel Şişli and the German Christmas bazaar is held in the German School, Beyoğlu on Saturday the 26th of November as advertised in the Lale and Bruecke magazines respectively. There you might find a little of what you miss from your own country. There are also numerous handmade markets around the city this time of year – you can check the local publications and Facebook for information. Church services are available as well; you would have to check with your local church.

Christmas in Istanbul needs a lot of planning, inventiveness and compromise. It could be not in spite of, but because of this, more fun; a family event that truly draws everyone together in the planning and preparations. Treat the advent as an adventure and time of discovery, and so it will become.

A Merry Christmas to you all.

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LALE EVENTS KRAV MAGA – A “MUST-DO” SELF DEFENSE CLASS

Many women think that they could never defend themselves against a strong male attacker - but there is a particular technique that can be used against each type of attack.

And you don’t need to be fit or young to learn and apply Krav Maga self-defense methods. After a warm-up and cardio, there will be a demonstration and training in the basic techniques against most common attacks. The women self defense trainer and an assistant from the Krav Maga Academy will be available to support and correct you as you practice the techniques, and there will be ample opportunity to practice together in pairs.

Our host for the session has been practicing Krav Maga for 2 years, after training in Karate and Aikido. She is a certified Krav Maga trainer (G2, 7th level), level 1 trainer and women self defense trainer of Alain Cohen Krav Maga System - Krav Maga Federation Israel.

Be prepared for the darker and colder period of the year with some practical self-defense techniques, learn to become more attentive and improve your self-confidence.

Krav Maga (Hebrew for “contact-combat”) is a self-defense system developed for the Israel Defense Forces (IDF) that consists of a broad combination of techniques sourced from aikido, judo, boxing and wrestling, along with realistic fight training. Krav Maga is known for its focus on real-life situations, together with its extremely efficient counterattacks.

The gym provides a comfortable environment in which to learn an important skill; please wear sports clothing and indoors sport shoes.

Date

Tuesday, November 8

Time

10.30am – 12.30pm

Location

Kadıköy – details to be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 60 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 55 TL Guests: 70 TL

Participants

Minimum: 6, Maximum: 20

Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, November 5 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

THE GRAND BAZAAR - BACKSTREETS, HANS AND ROOFTOPS Ottoman treasures, the smallest shop in the bazaar, and the pudding shop where the ladies of the Harem would sit. We will go down narrow alleyways opening up into 17th century Caravansarais with original arched terraces, Armenian silversmiths, hidden cafes and many kittens. The Grand Bazaar, built in 1461, has always maintained its original structure withstanding several powerful earthquakes and fires.

In the back streets, we will discover the authentic atmosphere - and the lower prices!

A view from the rooftops of the Grand Bazaar is something that can only be done with expert guidance – fortunately, we have Monica Fritz with us to make this perhaps one of the most memorable days you can have in Istanbul. And we’ve timed it nicely for you to do some Christmas shopping in the Grand Bazaar at the end of the tour.

Running on two dates, one weekday and one Saturday, we’re giving all our members the chance to experience a unique view of the magical Grand Bazaar. If you think you knew the Bazaar, you will be surprised and intrigued by the new insights you will gain from our special tour – and if you are still mystified about finding your way around, you’ll love relaxing and enjoying being guided through and around one of the crown jewels of Istanbul.

Date

Wednesday, November 9

Time

10.00am – 2.00pm

Location

Close to Grand Bazaar - details of meeting point will be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 70 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 65 TL Guests: 80 TL

Participants

Minimum: 7, Maximum: 15

Strolling through the backstreets, we will see the original Bedestan (old bazaar) with its elegant domed interior, we will visit one of the oldest shops in the Bazaar filled with

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, November 6

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS ELGIZ MUSEUM OUTDOOR SCULPTURE EXHIBITION – FUGITIVE SHADOW

The stunning location of the museum and its terrace, in the heart of the Maslak business district and encircled by sky scrapers, gives rise to changing light conditions and makes it a special atmosphere in which to view sculpture. The artworks create dialogues around the shadow both in metaphor and through aesthetic representation. The works selected for the 8th Terrace exhibition promise to make it an Elgiz Museum classic and are an homage to Benvenuto Cellini and other great sculpture artists.

Our guide, Kimberley Ann Duyguluer, is a Canadian expat working as the International Relations Coordinator for the Elgiz museum. She has a degree in Art Criticism and Curatorial Practice and will be delighted to lead our tour and conversation of the exhibition and its works. Light refreshments will be served, on the terrace of course! For those who wish, we can also visit the summer exhibition from the Elgiz permanent collection.

Calling all art lovers, as well as photographers! IWI members are invited to our own private tour of a superb exhibition at the Elgiz Museum, a hidden gem of the Istanbul art scene.

On this occasion, we will be visiting the Museum’s 8th Terrace Exhibition, which invites us to reconsider our routine experiences with light and its fluctuations. “Fugitive Shadow” is an outdoor sculpture exhibition, showcasing 29 works

by Turkish and International artists. The theme is based upon Plato’s Allegory of the Cave - a dialogue surrounding the nature of reality with shadows being a metaphor for the illusory world.

Date

Friday, November 11

Time

10.30am

Location

Elgiz Museum, Meydan Sokak Beybi Giz Plaza B Blok, Maslak

Cost

Basic members: 15 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 10 TL Guests: 20 TL

Participants

Minimum: 6, Maximum: 25

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Tuesday, November 8

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

TOUR OF THE HISTORIC PERA PALACE HOTEL Today Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah retains its unique heritage combined with a modern touch which epitomises cosmopolitan Istanbul. You can read more about the hotel in the July/August Lale magazine.

Our tour starts at the hotel’s famous patisserie, which is also the meeting point. After a chat over coffee or tea and some delicious pastries from the étagère, you will be greeted by the general Manager, Pinar Timer. On the tour, we will learn about the history of the hotel and the surrounding area of Pera.

Following this, we will visit the famous Atatürk room, other facilities including the ballroom, the Agatha Christie room and we are invited to use the ancient lift.

IWI is delighted to be able to offer its members another spellbinding tour of the historical and iconic Pera Palace Hotel in Beyoğlu. This hotel was built in 1892 in order to host passengers travelling from Paris to Istanbul on the famous Orient Express and is named after the part of Beyoğlu it is situated in, the Tepebaşı neighbourhood of Pera, once known as “Little Europe”, near the Pera Müzesi and the British Consulate building. It holds the title of oldest European hotel in Turkey.

Date

Tuesday, November 15

Time

10.00am- 2:30 pm

Location

Pera Palace Hotel

Cost

Basic members: 55 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 45 TL Guests: 60 TL

Participants

Minimum: 28 Maximum: 12

Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, November 12 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

Steeped in history, this building probably has more stories to tell than any other about the history of the international community, which has been visiting Istanbul for centuries.

The Pera Palace is known for its timeless glamour and elegance, combined with genuine Turkish hospitality.

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LALE EVENTS WINE TASTING EVENING same as in Italy’s Mount Etna region and, like there, the area is known for its rich soil full of volcanic nutrients - great for growing grapes.

Sensus is a lovely cellar wine bar just by the Galata tower.

Their stunning premises, with wall-to-wall shelving filled with bottles of wines, is a delight for wine lovers to behold.

During the evening, we will taste five different wines, with the guidance of an expert to give information about each one. There will also be a cheese board and cold appetisers included, as well as the opportunity to purchase the tasted wines with a 5% discount after the tasting session.

This is going to be a fun and informative night, as well as very sociable occasion. And a useful chance to stock-up your wine before the holidays!

It can be challenging to discover a Turkish wine that will live up to the favourite one we used to drink back home….. So here is an opportunity to discover some Turkish wines to add to your shopping list. Our first evening will allow you to taste wines from the Yanık Ülke vineyard which is based in Manisa.

For two thousand years, the Geopark area in Manisa has been known for its amazing landscape, formed by volcanoes.

The vineyards in the area, known as the “Scorched Land”, are located on the rocky volcanic slopes of the Divlit Volcano at 924 meters above sea level. The soil properties are the

Date

Thursday, November 17

Time

7.00pm

Location

Galata Wine Bar

Cost

Basic members :150 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 140 TL Guests: 160 TL

Participants Minimum 10, Maximum 30 Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, November 14 Contact

programs@iwi-tı.org

THE GRAND BAZAAR - BACKSTREETS, HANS AND ROOFTOPS Caravansarais with original arched terraces, Armenian silversmiths, hidden cafes and many kittens. The Grand Bazaar, built in 1461, has always maintained its original structure withstanding several powerful earthquakes and fires.

In the back streets, we will discover the authentic atmosphere - and the lower prices!

A view from the rooftops of the Grand Bazaar is something that can only be done with expert guidance – fortunately, we have Monica Fritz with us to make this perhaps one of the most memorable days you can have in Istanbul. And we’ve timed it nicely for you to do some Christmas shopping in the Grand Bazaar at the end of the tour.

Running on two dates, one weekday and one Saturday, we’re giving all our members the chance to experience a unique view of the magical Grand Bazaar. If you think you knew the Bazaar, you will be surprised and intrigued by the new insights you will gain from our special tour – and if you are still mystified about finding your way around, you’ll love relaxing and enjoying being guided through and around one of the crown jewels of Istanbul.

Date

Saturday November 19

Time

10.30am – 2.00pm

Location

Close to Grand Bazaar - details of meeting point will be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 70 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 65 TL Guests: 80 TL

Participants

Minimum: 7, Maximum: 15

Strolling through the backstreets, we will see the original Bedestan (old bazaar) with its elegant domed interior, we will visit one of the oldest shops in the Bazaar filled with Ottoman treasures, the smallest shop in the bazaar, and the pudding shop where the ladies of the Harem would sit. We will go down narrow alleyways opening up into 17th century

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Wednesday, November 16

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS COFFEE AND CULTURE WALK THROUGH KANDILLI Adile Sultan was an Ottoman princess, a poet and a philanthropist. She lost her mother at a very young age, but was given a good palace education and later married another key figure of Istanbul, the naval fleet commander Mehmet” Ali Paşa. Their three children also died, and she joined a Sufi order and devoted her life to charitable works, amongst which included donating the palace to become a girls’ educational institute.”

The walk will end at approximately 12pm at the Kandilli boat station with the possibility of lunch at the adjacent fish restaurant (not included in walk fee). The walk will be led by” our long-term IWI member Lesley Tahtakılıç, a resident of the” village for over 30 years.

The village of Kandilli lies on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus directly opposite Bebek, and between Çengelköy and Anadolu Hisar. From the boat station we will walk uphill and around the many small alleyways and steps of Kandilli village. As this is a very hilly district many of the streets are steep so participants need to be fit and wear suitable shoes, preferably rubber-soled and flat. We will look at the quaint wooden houses, originally built in the late Ottoman period, most now fully restored. We should also be able to visit the beautifully restored Adile Sultan Sarayı, a late Ottoman Palace on the hilltop overlooking the village with wonderful views of the Bosphorus.

Date

Tuesday, November 22

Time

10.00am

Location

Kandilli Asian Side

Cost

Basic members: 10 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 10 TL Guests: 15 TL

Participants

Maximum: 15

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, November 19

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

HAKART - COPPER AND BRASS MANUFACTURER and coffee sets, brass lanterns, hand lined heavy-duty copper pots and pans, bowls and trays, as well as decorative items such as delicate pomegranate-shaped miniature boxes.

The atelier also specialises in restoring antique copper, wooden and clay items sourced from across Anatolia.

After the tour we will have the opportunity to purchase products from the huge Hakart shop - at very affordable wholesale prices. With over 2500 beautiful items on offer, you are sure to find the perfect holiday gifts! (Please note that Hakart does not accept credit cards). We will depart on our minibus from Kanyon, returning there in the afternoon. The price of the event includes transport as well as a simple kebab lunch, tea and water.

Have you ever admired the intricate copper pots (sahan) that your Sunday “menemen” is served in or the gorgeously delicate tea and coffee sets found in many Turkish homes?

Then don’t miss this chance to visit Hakart, a family run company that has been hand crafting copper and brass decorative items in Istanbul since 1965. Nowadays, they supply to some of the most famous top-end brand names in kitchenware and household goods.

We will be given a fascinating tour of the production area, allowing us to watch the coppersmiths in action and see how they hammer out their beautiful copper and brass pieces.

They produce many different items, including traditional tea

A very popular program with our members, at the perfect time of year, be sure to grab your seat!

Date

Thursday, November 24

Time

9.45am - 2.30pm

Location

Pick-up and drop-off at Kanyon in Levent

Cost

Basic members: 35 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 30 TL Guests: 40 TL

Participants Minimum 6, Maximum 10 Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, November 21 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS EBRU WORKSHOP This workshop will be a learning experience, in which you will become acquainted with the art of Ebru, and produce your own Ebru artwork.

You will learn, from an expert artisan, how to make Turkish Ebru art using traditional techniques, practice different techniques and understand the secret of rich patterns to create your own style. The IWI has partnered with a leading Turkish culture and travel company in Istanbul to bring you this exclusive workshop.

Listed with UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, Ebru is the traditional Turkish art of creating colourful patterns by sprinkling and brushing colour pigments onto a pan of oily water and then transferring the patterns to paper. This is a very unusual art form, using special tools and materials including brushes of horsehair bound to straight rose twigs, a tray, natural earth pigments, cattle gall and tragacanth.

The art of Ebru is believed to have been invented in the 13th Century. Seljuk and Ottoman calligraphers and artists used marbling to decorate imperial decrees, official correspondence and documents. It is often used as a background writing surface for calligraphy, and especially for book covers and endpapers in bookbinding. Part of its appeal is that each print is a unique monotype.

This is a great opportunity to understand the processes that go into making the beautiful pieces that you see in local bazaars, and to bring out your creativity by giving it a try yourself. A truly Turkish experience, and one that we are sure will be unforgettable Date

Monday, November 28

Time

10:30am

Location

Cihangir, Beyoğlu

Cost

Basic members: 75 TL Classic, Business and honorary members: 70 TL Guests: 80 TL

Participants

Minimum: 5, Maximum: 15

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Friday, November 25

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

AN EVENING WITH WHIRLING DERVISHES Cultural Heritage status, is a synthesis of spiritual love attained by a combination of music and whirling, is considered by the Order to be a key requirement for spiritual devotion.

Whirling dervishes are synonymous with Turkey, but very few people ever get to see “behind the scenes” of their mystical world. The IWI has partnered with Cultural Interactions Point (CIP) to bring our members a uniquely intimate opportunity to watch and to meet two whirling dervishes, and their musician – we will be able to talk with them, and have a go for ourselves, under the expert guidance of our bilingual host.

Whirling dervishes are members of the Mevlevi Order and followers of Rumi, a great Turkish poet and mystic.

The Mevlevi brotherhood is based in Konya, where its founder is buried, and derives its essence, rites, moral code and discipline from the mystical path first shown by Rumi.

The Mevlevi Sema Ritual, which has UNESCO Intangible

Our evening will begin with a short video presentation introducing Sufi music and Whirling Dervishes. Then, a whirling dervish and a Sufi musician will explain the essential elements of their movement, and demonstrate parts of their ritual. We will have direct contact with these practitioners and be able to ask questions and discuss what they do. We will also be able to try out whirling for ourselves! We will be taken to a different world, and reach a new level of understanding of this iconic cultural heritage.

The cost of the evening will include a complimentary informative pamphlet, drinks, snacks and Turkish delight.

Date

Tuesday, November 29

Time

7.00pm-9.30 pm

Location

Cihangir, details provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 120 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 110 TL Guests: 135 TL

Participants Maximum: 15 Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, November 26 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS IWI CHRISTMAS LUNCH (CROSS CONTINENTS)

MENU oo A warm welcome with a glass of Gluhwein oo Pumpkin and chestnut soup, scented with cinnamon and marsala oo Green asparagus quinoa salad, with pecans and strawberries, with a light ginger and pomegranate dressing Either – oo Miso fillet of salmon, served with sesame greens and pommery mustard mashed potatoes

This year, we have decided to make our Christmas Lunch a special one – we will hold only one event, bringing together our European and Asian side members at a very convenient location, and there will be entertainment!

This stylish new venue takes the 360 Taksim restaurant concept (an artful combination of cuisine, entertainment, vibe and ambiance) to Kadıköy – perched on top of the Hilton Doubletree, it commands a breathtaking landscape view of Kadıköy, old Istanbul, The Marmara Sea and Moda.

The singer Shai Shaker will be entertaining us with festive song, so please join us to celebrate the spirit of togetherness at Christmas.

Or – oo Christmas Roast Cherry Duck, served with Brussel sprouts, almandine potatoes, and duck jus oo Or (vegetarian option) – oo Chickpea cutlet, served with almandine potatoes, Brussel sprouts and a tahini sauce oo Bourbon chocolate silk pie

The price includes one glass of local wine or rakı, water, soft drinks, tea and coffee Date

Wednesday, December 7

Time

12.00pm

Location

360 East, Moda (Hilton Doubletree hotel)

Cost

Classic, Business and Honorary members 150TL, Basic members 160TL, Guests 175TL

Participants

Minimum: 20, Maximum: 100

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, December 4

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

CREATE YOUR OWN FESTIVE GINGERBREAD COOKIE HOUSE The house will be made out of pre-baked cookies so that we can start right away on the decoration – the recipe for the cookies will be provided for your future use. You will be able to take their own creation home in a box (provided).

Our session leader, Ukrainian-born Olesia, loves to cook and to draw, and has a sweet-tooth; she found that she could combine all of these in making the most beautifully-decorated cakes. After professional training, she gained an expertise that saw her twice become winner of the Cake Show Istanbul.

Others were quickly interested in learning her skills, and she now runs courses to share her passion and knowledge.

The winter is upon us, and it’s time for festive cheer. We have a real treat in store for those of you who love to create beautiful things to help celebrate this season….

Learn how to decorate and paint cookies, and assemble them to create your own beautiful “Cookie house” with edible Christmas time ornaments. The workshop will focus on learning and applying different techniques to create intricate decorations, small details, and realistic surfaces. We will work with different tools, and learn how to assemble the finished cookies to form a unique piece of festive decoration for your home - which can then be shared and eaten with those you love. Alternatively, your house could provide the perfect gift for an adult or child close to you.

Join us to create some of your own magic and get into the spirit of Christmas!

Date

Thursday, December 8

Time

10.30am – 2.30pm

Location

Kadıköy, details to be advised to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 120 TL Classic, Business and Honorary members: 110 TL Guests: 135 TL

Participants

Minimum: 3, Maximum: 10

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, December 5

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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IWI BOARD

JOIN THE IWI BOARD & TEAMS

ALL ROLES ARE VOLUNTARY

Have you got vital skills you could be sharing with us? If so, we want to hear from you. We have the following positions available on the board or supporting the board. All enquiries to chairwoman@iwi-tr.org Social Media & Website Administrator

Advertising Administrator

Lale Deputy Editor

Mums ‘N Kids Administrator

A non-Board position requiring good technical knowledge of communication tools such as Facebook, Twitter, websites etc. You will work with the Marketing & Communications Coordinator to ensure that all IWI social media tools are kept up to date, in a professional and clear manner.

A non-Board position which involves working closely with the editor of Lale magazine, the bi-monthly publication of the IWI. You will help plan, contribute to and produce each issue of Lale. Work is flexible, but you will need to be available on the third week of every second month to help with production.

A non-Board position which involves working closely with the Advertising & Sponsorship Coordinator to seek advertisers for Lale magazine and the IWI newsletters. Sales experience is not necessary but good communication skills and an ability to work with clients face-to-face would be a plus.

A non-Board position which involves working closely with the Schools Liaison Coordinator to guide and support current IWI Mums ‘n Kids group leaders, as well as organising some events yourself. Good organisational skills. This is a role that can make a real difference to the profile of the IWI.

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FEATURE: NEIGHBOURHOOD COMMUNITY MEETUP TEAM

IWI FOCUS

MEET THE IWI NCM TEAM In our ongoing series of articles focusing on the IWI Board, the Neighbourhood Community Meet-Up (NCM) team discusses their mission to help form tighter connections amongst our members WHAT WE DO

One of the advantages of being a member of such a diverse organization with over 500 members from over 50 countries is having the opportunity to meet, socialize and work on different projects with fellow international women who live in this stunning megapolis of Istanbul.

The Neighborhood Community Meet-ups(NCMs) provide local support to IWI members in their neighborhood areas.

The monthly NCMs are great informal meetings to not only socialize with other women and share information, but more importantly they are a wonderful platform to talk about upcoming IWI events, programs and activities; to discuss the organization’s social responsibility projects, to recruit volunteers for the IWI board and major events, and to promote IWI in general.

WHY WE DO IT

In the words of some of our NCM coordinators members, they help lead, participate and join the community meet-ups because they “want to learn more about the organization,” and “discover Istanbul together with other expat women and enhance their experience in the city.” Others find it rewarding to help fellow women who may find living, working, building a social or a professional network and simply adjusting to the city’s rhythm, challenging at times. One member said, “Social belonging is a huge part of self-definition and the NCMs and the activities with them are one of the many otulets and threads availale out there through IWI.” But above all, we do it because we genuinely believe in the IWI motto “From women for women.”

HOW WE DO WORK

Our NCM team is comprised of 10 ladies (one central NCM coordinator and at present 9 local NCM coordinators) and we try to meet once a month. With our busy a lot of the communication is via email and conference calls. The central coordinator sends the other coordinators board board meeting minutes and we debrief on that month’s community meet-up for each neighbourhood to go over suggestions, concerns, discussion points and to brainstorm ideas for future meetings. Afterwards, each local NCM coordinator arranges the next meet-up. That involves inviting new members and encouraging non-members to attend before deciding if they want to join the IWI, allocating a meeting leader and a venue.

We keep in mind that what works for some NCMs might not work for other, so flexibility is key.

During the community meet-ups, the coordinators keep track of the number of attendees and take pictures of the meet-up for IWI records. The coordinators always keep a membership form with them just in case there is a potential new IWI member. And last but not least, the coordinators use the

NCMs as a venue to share information about upcoming IWI programs, events, activities and any other updates relevant to that particular neighborhood area.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR THE 2016/2017 SEASON

One of the goals that we set for ourselves this year was to be a part of the Opening meeting in September, and we achieved that! Upon arrival and registration, we were the first table that our members saw when they entered the meeting room. We felt lucky to have the opportunity to welcome old and new members, share information about IWI. We are exploring different venues and ideas for local community meet-ups, and depending on interest, there is a possibility of increasing the frequency of the local NCM meetings as well.

Additionally, we would like to offer more community meet-up opportunities to our NCM members on the Asian side. We are holding trials in the Kartal, Bagdat Caddesi, Cengelköy and Beykoz areas.

Finally, we want to see our NCM team grow. This stunning city has a territory of over 5000 sq. km, is 160km in length and consists of 39 districts. We would like to reach out to as many of our members as possible and give them the opportunity to have a local neighborhood support group.

WE NEED YOUR SUPPORT

We do! Here is how you can do that : - Contact either your local or the central NCM coordinator with any relevant information and suggestions you have - Become a part of the local NCM’s WhatsApp and FB groups and email distribution lists - Give us your ideas on what would make you choose and prefer an IWI NCM meeting, program or event over all the other opportunities in the city - Provide feedback and constructive criticism. We appreciate your honesty on what you think has worked or might work better for a specific neighbourhood - Show up to NCM meetings, and encourage other members to attend - Tell a friend; maybe she would like to join the IWI!

HOW TO KEEP INFORMED ABOUT UPCOMING NCM EVENTS

The contact information of the local NCM coordinators and the neighborhood area details are described in each Lale magazine issue. Feel free to write to us directly with any ideas at ncm@iwi-tr.org.

We hope to hear from you and see you at our monthly neighborhood community meet-ups!

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IWI NEWCOMERS

ARE YOU A NEWCOMER?

IWI holds get-togethers over coffee to welcome newcomers every month on both the Asian and European sides of the city ASIAN SIDE COFFEE

We hold newcomer coffee meetings every second Tuesday of the month at Zamane Kahvesi in Bostancı from 10am-12pm.

For more information, contact Gabriele Sailer: 0546 234 2835.

Each month your NCM Local Coordinator will arrange a meet-up in your area, usually in the second week of the month. This is a chance to connect with people in your area and see what the IWI has to offer. We are currently looking for enthusiastic and organised ladies to fill two positions in Areas M and O.

EUROPEAN SIDE COFFEE

We hold newcomer coffee mornings every third Thursday of the month at The House Cafe, Istinye Park from 10am-12pm.

For more information, please contact Ayşe Yücel: 0532 356 3843.

Being an NCM Coordinator involves arranging the meet-up, passing on information about IWI (which you will receive from the overall NCM Coordinator, Maria Eroğlu), encouraging attendance at various IWI events, and generally making people feel welcome.

AREA

COORDINATOR

CONTACT

Area A/C/F

Etiler, Akatlar, Ulus, Beşiktaş, Levent

Leen Saket

leensaket@gmail.com

Area B/J

Tarabya, Sarıyer, Büyükdere, Zekeriyaköy, Kilyos, Uskumruköy

Szilvia Nagy

szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area D

Arnavutköy, Bebek, Rumeli Hisarı, Baltalimanı

Olga Treve

olgatreve@yahoo.com

Area E

Ortaköy, Levazım, Balmumcu

Wendy Serter

wserter@gmail.com

Area G/L

Nişantaşı, Osmanbey, Şişli/Fulya, Gayrettepe, Esentepe, Tepebaşı, Teşvikiye, Maçka, Beyoğlu, Taksim/Tünel, Sultanahmet, Harbiye, Fatih, Gümüşsuyu/Eyüp, Cihangir/ Topağacı, Gaziosmanpaşa/Kabataş

Anna Mozejko

anna.mozejko@iwi.gmail.com

Area H/I

Yeniköy, İstinye, Maslak, Reşitpaşa, Emirgan

Szilvia Nagy

szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area K

Kemer, Göktürk

Sylwia Regulska Guney

sylwıa.regulska-guney@rplast.pl

Area M

Maltepe, Kadıköy/Üsküdar, Moda, Ataşehir, Kartal, Ömerli, Kücükyalı, Salacak, Tuzla

To be confirmed

Area O

Ümraniye, Çekmeköy, Beykoz, Çengelköy, Anadolu Hisarı, Beylerbeyi, Kanlıca, Kandilli, Polonezköy, Kavacık

To be confirmed

Area P

Büyükçekmece, Küçükçekmece, Hadımköy, Bakırköy, Ataköy, Yeşilköy, Yeşilyurt, Bahçeköy/ Bahçelievler, Güneşli, Yenibosna, Beylikdüzü, Halkalı, Bahçeşehir, Bağcılar, Esenyurt, Küçükköy

Karen Yarnold

karenyarnold2@gmail.com

Area Y

Caddebostan, Fenerbahçe, Erenköy, Kalamış, Suadiye, Valideçeşme, Göztepe, Bakkalköy, Çiftehavuzlar, Şaşkınbakkal, Küçükbakkalköy, Bostancı

Gabriele Sailer

gsailer@paradisefruit.eu

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tickets on sale

Sunday, 4 December 2016 Istanbul Marriott Hotel ĹžiĹ&#x;li 10:00 - 17:00

Everyone Welcome Avoid queues at the door and purchase tickets now!

Contact your local NCM coordinator, board member, or email events@iwi-tr.org. children 12 and under free admission Lale-NOV-DEC-NEW.indd 57

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MUMS ’N KIDS

MEETINGS AND PLAYGROUPS IWI has weekly playgroups organised according to children’s ages. These are usually hosted by our members at their homes, meet-ups at parks or walks along the Bosphorus coast IWI GROUPS

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND PROVIDERS

These playgroups are free of charge for IWI members. This is an opportunity to meet other parents of infants or toddlers, as well as share the joys and trials of motherhood while creating a support network.

Bosphorus International Pre-School, Emirgan

Please contact the Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator at mumsnkids@ iwi-tr.org if you have any questions or suggestions.

To join a playgroup, please go to IWI’s website and visit the Mums ‘n Kids page under the Members’ Section for the coordinators’ email addresses.

The coordinators will add you to the group’s mailing list to keep you updated about future events.

Pregnant and infants (0-12 months) Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 11am-1pm Coordinator: Stephanie Ketterer Walkers – Younger Toddlers (1-2 years) Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 10am-12pm Coordinator: Joanna Hochhold: joannahochhold@gmail.com Toddlers (2+) Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 10am-12pm Coordinator: VOLUNTEER NEEDED Asian Side Playgroup (for all ages) Usual meeting day/time: Mondays Coordinator: Lilian Hasenpusch

Teacher-organised activity, song and circle time, garden play (weather-permitting).

Coffee, tea, milk and cookies provided.

When: Tuesdays Time: 10am-11.30am Cost: FREE Age group: 0-3 years Please contact Ms Collette Laffan-Persembe at preschool@ bipschool.net or telephone at 0212 277 8444. *Note: please call on Mondays to reserve. There are only 10 openings every week. Please only ONE known adult per child. www.bipschool.net.

British International School, Zekeriyaköy and Etiler

Indoor and outdoor play (weather-permitting), followed by snack and music time. A known adult must stay and supervise the child.

Zekeriyaköy (Tuesdays and Fridays) / Etiler (Wednesdays and Fridays) Time: 9am-11am (both campuses) Cost: 10TL per session Age: 0-2.5 years of age Please contact Mrs Amanda Ilhan, Preschool and Primary Deputy Director at amandailhan@bis.k12.tr or telephone at 0212 202 7027 ext 116 www.bis.k12.tr.

Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Yeniköy, Istanbul Baby Ballet Playgroup for Boys and Girls

When: Thursdays Time: 9:30am-11:30am Cost: 30TL per session, (no block-booking required) Age: 0-3 years Where: Ballet Studio, Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Güzelce Ali Paşa Cad. No. 50, Yeniköy, İstanbul Bring: Soft slippers for little feet Please contact Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director at director@ edensgardenpreschool.com or telephone 0212 262 4302 www.edensgardenpreschool.com.

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Fotini Café - Arnavutkoy, Besiktas

Hotpot Café - Şişli, Istanbul

IWI members enjoy a waiver on the 8TL entrance fee to the playroom. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Please contact Lena at fotinicafe@gmail.com or telephone 0533 093 9992.

There is a 10% discount for IWI members. Please present your IWI membership card to claim.

A café with a playroom dedicated to babies and toddlers up to three years old, Fotini Café is located along the Bosphorus coast and offers a comfortable area for you and your child to unwind and have fun at the same time.

Francalaci Cd. No.26, Arnavutkoy, 34345 Istanbul, Turkey www.fotinicafe.com

Gymboree Play and Music

15% discount for IWI members on Play and Learn classes in the Ortaköy branch. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount.

Gymboree Play and Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0-5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in 30 countries, making Gymboree the global leader in early childhood development programmes.

Designed by experts, the age-appropriate activities help develop the cognitive, physical and social skills of children as they play. The programmes are also recognised for their unique approach to parent involvement, which encourages participation in and understanding of each child’s development.

Cost: 1,020TL for 12 classes (after IWI discount applied) Gymboree members can also enjoy complimentary free-play times during the week. For non-Gymboree members, IWI members these cost 30TL per hour.

School Skills programme (drop-off) for the 2-3 year olds or 3-4 year olds. 10% discount on full-year School Skills programme for IWI members.

Music and Art classes are also available. Limited offer for IWI members: 12 classes for the price of eight. Birthday parties for 1-7 year olds (20% discount for weekday bookings) Please contact Esra Taşar at esratasar@gymboreeturkey.com or telephone 212 275 8787. www.gymboreeturkey.com

Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Tarabya, Istanbul Mother and Baby Music and Movement. Parents and guardians can come along for fun singing and dancing with their little ones.

When: Mondays and Tuesdays Time: 4.00pm to 5.00pm Cost: 30TL per class or 50TL for two classes per week Age: 6-23 months Where: Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Sumer Korusu, Altuncu Sk, No 5, Tarabya, Istanbul Please contact Maresa Shahnooshi, Teacher and Preschool Coordinator at maresa@woodsviewpreschool.com or by telephone on 0212 299 3906. www.woodsviewpreschool.com The Mums ’n Kids Team is a volunteer group that organises activities for you and your children to enjoy. Please take responsibility for your own child’s safety. IWI is not liable for any injury or loss incurred

Merkez Mah. Perihan Sk. Erbil Apt. No 71-73B, Şişli – Istanbul Located centrally in Şişli, with just a short walk from the metro station, Hotpot café offers playgroups (baby/toddler), yoga (prenatal, yoga, adults), dance and drama classes and other fun activities for both kids and mums.

Please contact Melissa at info@hotpot.web.tr or telephone 0212 343 5353. www.hotpot.web.tr

Kindermusik at Play to Learn Pre-School

On the European side in Akatlar, Nişantaşı and Koç University Rumelifeneri Campus and on the Asian side in Ataşehir, offering different music classes.

My Time Programme: 18-30 months ABC, Music and Me Programme: 2-4 years of age Please contact Ms Ozlem Hun at info@playtolearn.com.tr or telephone at 0212 352 3031 or 0532 237 2272. www.playtolearn.com.tr

Full Circle Healing Doula List

There are doulas on both the European and Asian side.

Doulas may be willing to travel to your location. For more detailed information about each doula, and on how a doula can support you, visit www.fullcirclehealing.org.

Do’um

Specialising in pregnancy and childbirth, providing education and counselling services to expecting parents and bringing together experts who believe in a natural approach. www.do-um.com

LOLA (Lots of Lovely Art)

After-school workshops, toddler art, kinder art, weekend workshops, holiday camps, themed birthday parties. www.lotsoflovelyart.com

Our House

Our House is located in Cihangir as a center for children and families. The aim of the organisation is to generate curiosity, creativity ad awareness for children at all stages of development. www.ourhouse.club

KidsAloud British Culture International Preschool

Summer School Age 2-6 and playgroup activitiıes Emirgan, Istanbul, www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer Song & Circle Time, Daytime Activities (art, dance, drama, sport, outdoor play) An adult to stay and supervise child Time: 10:30am - 12:00pm Wednesdays Cost: FREE for IWI members Bring: soft slippers Where: Kids Aloud British Culture Preschool, Emirgan Mah. Şirin Sok. No. 32, Emirgan, Istanbul Please contact Mrs Sevgi Doğan or Carroll Ibramihov Tan Telephone: 0532 361 4427 / 212 229 3776, or sariyer@ ingilizceanakoulu.com *Note: please call on Fridays or Mondays to reserve (within the quota) We offer a 50% discount for IWI members for the summer school and 2016 September term. www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer

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GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS Have a particular passion or want to learn one? IWI has various social clubs and affiliated groups in which to get involved. It is a great way to expand your community and make new friends!

Alcoholics Anonymous/Al-Anon Open AA (Alcoholics Anonymous) meetings in English are held in the Union Han building on Istiklal Caddesi, Tünel, next to the Swedish Consulate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 6.45pm (contact 0533 626 5724 ).

There is an Alanon meeting at 6.30pm on Thursdays in the same location. On Sundays, there is an open AA meeting at 4,15pm in Harbiye (contact 0539 606 0123). On the Asian side in Kadikoy, there are meetings at 6pm on Thursdays and at 5.30pm on Saturdays (contact 0537 433 8368). A full listing of all English-speaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website: www.aa-europe.net Asian Ladies of Istanbul The Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a non-profit social group established over 20 years ago for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul to come together. A members-only Facebook page provıdes news of the monthly lunches, news, events, photographs and useful information. Please contact Kim Cakirkaya at kim.cakirkaya@gmail.com or 0533 463 6930 for further information.

ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey) The Friends of ARIT Istanbul, with branches in North America and Ankara, was established to support the ARIT in Turkey. The Istanbul Friends run a yearround programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. For further information call 0212 257 8111.

AWl (American Women of Istanbul) AWI is a social network open to Americans, Canadians and spouses of US or Canadian citizens in Istanbul.

AWI offers social programmes from special-interest groups to charities. If you’re a newcomer to Istanbul please contact our newcomers committee.

Email Monisha Kar or Sia Israfil at awiistanbul@gmail.com.

Belgian Friends of Istanbul The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gathers every month for drinks, brunch, dinner, a walk or a cultural activity. We also offer activities such as the annual St Nicholas party for children or New Year’s dinner.

Our Facebook page allows members to exchange information about job opportunities, housing, babysitting, Belgian cultural events in Istanbul, where to find Belgian products, etc.

Email bfistanbul@gmail.com.

Book Club There are two IWI book clubs. Book Club 1 is currently over-subscribed, but Book Club 2 is open to new members.

Contact: Mary Akgüner (Book Club 2) mary.akguner@gmail.com Boy Scouts/Cub Scouts The Boy Scouts and Cub Scouts of America is a youth programme for character development and valuesbased leadership training. All boys in grades one to five (ages six to 10) holding a foreign passport are welcome to join Cubs. Older boys (ages 1118) are welcome to join Boy Scouts.

Activities include hiking and camping.

Email Vicki Gunay graygunay@gmail. com or 0532 314 11 34.

Bridge Group Our bridge group meets on Fridays at 10.30am - all levels welcome. Playing bridge in our group is a way to spend a pleasant Friday. Please contact Sandra on 212 257 9781 or 0532 483 5319.

C@rma C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have opportunities to volunteer with your specific skills on a pro-bono basis through our platform, www.4carma.com, and we also organise events every two months at which NGOs can present their activites or brainstorm around their problem with professional volunteers. Our website and activities are in Turkish and English. For more information, contact info@4carma.com.

CHICAS Spanish Speaking Women of Istanbul A group open to all ladies who speak our language, or would like to practise it. We host lots of fun, hilarious Latin parties and cultural events. We have our own blog: http://chicasestambul. blogspot.com/ and we’re on Facebook under “Chicas Estambul.” Email chicasestambul@yahoo.com.mx or phone Ninoska Gutierrez Sierra 0533 651 3581, Norma Maranges 0532 314 29 34 or Lorena Martinez 0533 388 6309.

CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana) The Italian Association organises activities, such as cooking classes, dinners, parties, Italian and Turkish conversation classes, piano lessons, zumba, tamurriata, Italian cinema, medieval fencing, painting on porcelain, capoiera, singing and activities for children. The wonderful liberty hall can also be hired for private parties and conferences. Email Armanda Campaner armandacampaner@ttmail.com or Elsa

Zambonini elsazambonini@yahoo.com, tel 0212 244 17 59 or visit our website info@circoloroma.com.

IWI Craft Group Contact Gaye Hiçdonmez at gayehicdonmez@gmail.com or 0532 700 0693.

Die Bruecke Die Bruecke, founded ın 1989, is a platform for the German-speaking community. It is open to everyone who speaks German. Die Bruecke issues a monthly newsletter. Different gatherings, charities, information concerning everyday life, bi-national education, help with bureaucracy and immigration laws in Turkey are covered. Website www.bruecke-istanbul.com, email info@ bruecke-istanbul.com.

DNSI - The Dutch School of Istanbul We provide Dutch language and cultural lessons to students aged between three and 16 with at least one parent with Dutch nationality. We also provide lessons to students aged three to 13, who would like to learn Dutch as a foreign language. We also offer a oneweek Dutch summer school. Please check our website www.dnsi.nu or email secretaris@dnsi.nu.

Fransız Fakirhanesi – Little Sisters of the Poor Email Mother Mary psdptr@gmail.com or phone 0212 296 4608.

Friends of India Association (FOIA) The Friends of India Association (FOIA) aims to connect Indians in Istanbul through social events. Our aim is to keep the spirit of India and Indian culture alive by organising festivals and activities. If you would like to know more, email any of the following: Jugnu Saglik: jugnusaglik@yahoo.com, Diya: khera.diya@gmail.com. We are also on Facebook as Istanbul Indian community (FOIA).

Girl Scouts The Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls everywhere build character and gain skills for success. İn a nurturing environment, and in with committed volunteers, girls develop strong values, leadership skills, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls aged fıve and up are welcome. Email Kat Bekham usagsoistanbul@gmail.com or phone 054 2300 24 92.

InterNations InterNations is an organisation where globally minded people have the

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GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS

opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. We organise events and provide opportunities for our members to meet and network twice a month. For further information please see our website internations.org.

International Women’s Bible Study This group meets Tuesdays from 10am until 12.30pm. Contact Vicki Günay on 0532 314 1134.

Istanbul Accueil Welcomes French speaking newcomers in Istanbul. We publish a weekly newsletter listing many events and activities. All French-speaking people are welcome! Email istaccueil@ gmail.com or visit our website www. istanbulaccueil.org.

IWI Tennis Group If you enjoy playing tennis please join our group. The IWI Tennis Group takes place at Istanbul Tennis Academy (ISTA) in Istinye. We welcome all players from beginners to advanced. Please contact Kenan Dundar at 0535 390 4983 or email kenandundar911@hotmail.com.

You can also contact IWI Sports Events Coordinator Olga at 0531 945 2588 or email pautova@hotmail.com Luso Brasileiro Portuguese speaking group. Contact Isabel Ponte Gulpan 0212 669 4943 or 0532 274 1653.

Istanbul International Rugby Center Founded in 2007, this is the only Rugby Club in Istanbul with coaching for children and teenagers. Turkish, English, French and Spanish all spoken. The club has coached over 400 international children aged fıve to 16. Rugby training is every Saturday 12.30 - 2pm at Dilikitaş Sport Club in Beşiktaş. Contact Club President Gülseren Gomez or Technical Director Mr Luis Gomez on 0538 642 4513 or see our website: www.istanbulrugbycenter.com Istanbul Ottomans Rugby Football Club We practise every Saturday afternoon between 4pm and 6pm, except on days when there are official fixtures, at the Dikilitaş Spor Kulübü in Besiktas (directions available at www. ottomansrugby.com). Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome.

Mahjong Club We are a small group of ladies, meeting once a week to piay Mahjong, a Chinese ‘brick’ game. Mahjong is very popular ın China and across Asia. The game

was traditionally played in clubs, on the street and in homes. We meet on Thursdays at 10.30am and usually continue until around 3.30pm. We meet at each other’s homes, where we are served a light lunch, nothing complicated. You don’t have to know the game in advance. It ıs not a complicated game, but it can take a little while to get familiar with. Join us we will guide and support you. Please contact Br Gerd Andreasson for more information. Email: gerd.andreasson@ gmail.com. Tel: +90 531 327 1108.

NVI – Dutch speaking people of Istanbul The Dutch Club Istanbul aıms to keep typical Dutch festivities alive, for people who have a connection to Holland, who like to meet up with Dutch-speaking people. For further information check our website (www.nv-istanbul.org) or contact Lisette Ruygrok at secretariaat@ nv-istanbul.org.

PAWI The Professional American Women of Istanbul is a network of American/ Canadian women and spouses of Americans/Canadians living in Istanbul.

PAWI strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Each monthly PAWI meeting features a guest speaker, and locations alternate between the European and Asian sides. Contact pawimembership@gmail.com or visit www.pawistanbul.wordpress.com.

Photography Club The photo club is a group of international members whose skill levels vary from very basic to semiprofessional – but who all share the desire to capture the world in a photograph and to explore Istanbul while doing so. The group discussion includes all current event information, bi-weekly photo challenges, tips and tricks, and general photography topics. Contact: Katherıne Baker at photoclubofistanbul@gmail.com.

IWI Rollerblading Biking Group Asian-side meetup. Bikes can be rented, bring your own rollerblades. Contact Gabriele Sailer for more information gsailer@paradisefruit.eu.

IWI Running Group The programme will run on a rolling basis, with membership renewable every month. If members need to travel, members may rejoin the group upon return. New members can join anytime.

Thursdays at 7pm, Sundays at 8am Caddebostan sahil. 120 USD per month.

Contact Marina Khonina at

marina.khonina@gmail.com or 0534 9828307

Speech Bubbles Speech Bubbles Theatre is a drama group established in 1988 aiming to perform high-quality English language musical theatre and donating proceeds to charities supporting children and education. Speech Bubbles is composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers and musicians from the international community. We also run a part-time school of performing arts for young people over 10 years of age and adults for three hours on Saturday mornings. Email tom@speechbubbles. org or www.speechbubbles.org.

South Africans in Istanbul Please contact esbie@hotmail.com if you are interested in forming an informal group of expatriate South Africans.

SWEA (Swedish Women Educational Association) SWEA is a world-wide network for Swedish-speaking women with a chapter in Istanbul. We organise events and activities and welcome everyone who speaks Swedish. If you would like to know more, please contact istanbul@ swea.org.

Support Group for Parents of Children with Special Needs Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs and additional resources for your child?

Please contact Carol Crous for more information on 0533 730 7148 or 0212 223 9700.

Toastmasters International – Istanbul Chapter The English speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club is the first Istanbul branch of Toastmasters International, an organisation that helps its members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment.

ITM meets on the first and third Wednesday of each month from 7.30pm to 9.30pm at the Gönen Hotel in Taksim.

Guests are welcome to attend two meetings free of charge. Email vpmembership@istanbultoastmasters.org or president@istanbultoastmasters.org.

Union Church of Istanbul We are an international, interdenominational church that offers services in English. Please visit ucistanbul.org for more information.

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IWI DIRECTORY / CLASSIFIEDS

Building Bridges between Countries & Cultures

MEF INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Ulus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus - Beşiktaş / Istanbul Phone: +90 (212) 362 26 33 • Fax: +90 (0212) 287 38 70 E-mail: contact@mefis.k12.tr · www.mefis.k12.tr

PROFESSIONAL MASSAGE

I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho rebalancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.

PIANO LESSONS

I give private piano lessons starting 4 years old. Our lessons can be in English or Turkish. I live in Ortakoy/Ulus area. Lessons can take place in my house as well as in the student’s house. I organise a piano recital at the end of the school year. I can prepare kids for London College of Music exams where they receive an internationally recognised certificate. Hope to meet you!

Sandra 0532 422 0413

WEEKEND BREAK IN SIRINCE

I give private piano lessons starting 4 years old. Our lessons can be in English or Turkish. I live in Ortakoy/Ulus area. Lessons can take place in my house as well as in the student’s house. I organise a piano recital at the end of the school year. I can prepare kids for London College of Music exams where they receive an internationally recognised certificate. Hope to meet you!

Sandra 0532 422 0413

TURKISH LESSONS

PRIVATE AND CONVERSATIONAL For ladies and men, group or one to one lessons, at your home or workplace, from an experienced native teacher fluent in English and French. Adjustable to your needs and time schedule.

Please call 0530 310 21 32 or email rbensan@superonline.com for full information.

NATIVE FRENCH TEACHER

I am a native French teacher; born and raised in Belgium. I have taught in UAE, Ivory-Coast, Tunisia. I can provide French lessons for kids or for adults. Please contact me for an appointment or my CV, recommendation letters, references. Mail: bejihamida@hotmail.com Mobile: 0 (538) 692 87 17

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IWI PARTNER OFFERS

In order to take advantage of these offers, you must show your IWI membership card

PERSONAL LIFE COACHING

With 15 years’ experience in expat living, I am ready to assist you during your transition period. I am a certified Life Coach, Intercultural Trainer and MBTI Specialist. I speak German and English fluently.

I would be happy to offer a 20% discount to IWI members. Ozlem Hersek: 0532 616 5045 ozlemhersek@gmail.com

CONCEPT LANGUAGES

Located in the heart of Etiler, Concept Languages is offering free Turkish conversation classes to any IWI member presenting their card. Classes will take place twice a month between 14:30-15:30. For information and reservations, please contact: Başak Toksoy 0212 351 1840 or basak.toksoy@conceptlanguages.com

SWISS CENTERDENT DENTAL CLINIC ZORLU CENTER

Swiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, Istanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you Swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We strive to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for IWI members.

Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212 353 6383 www.swisscenterdent.com

BOYNUZ STEAK HOUSE & KASAP

Boynuz Steak House is offering IWI members a 10% discount.

Poligon Mah. Poligon Cd. Fevzi Cakmak Sk. No:2 Istinye Phone: 0212 229 1910. www.boynuzet.com

TIME OUT SUBSCRIPTIONS

Time Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discount on subscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city.

Find out how you may get your free issue by contacting: Omer Karanis, omer@ajansmedya.com. www.timeoutistanbul.com

MOMMA ZEN/ANNEZEN

Momma Zen & Annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy. We offer many types of services, classes and workshops for all women, especially expectant mothers, babies and children.

We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birthing classes, workshops, massages and mother-baby yoga classes. Momma Zen/ Annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. www.momma-zen.com or www.annezen.com/program

DENTIST BURÇIN GOFF

Located in Çengelköy - Anatolian Side. We offer IWI members a 25% discount on all treatments. Address: Albay Hüsamettin Ertürk Cad. No: 4 D: 23, Çengelköy-Üsküdar. Mobile: 0536 357 9808. Email: bhtgoff@ yahoo.com

C.C.C. -CHRISTINE COTTON CLUB

The established PLUS SIZE BRAND for Women in Turkey since 1985 – C.C.C. is happy to offer a special 10% discount on all purchases by IWI Members. The discount is valid in the C.C.C. Shops in Kadıköy, Profilo AVM and Bağdat Caddesi. Please check our website for our new collection: www.ccctextil.com C.C.C. Kadıköy: Osmanağa Mah. Süleymanpaşa Sk. No:5, Kadıköy, Phone: 0216 450 5939, C.C.C. Profilo AVM: B Kapısı Girişi Zemin Kat No:04 Mecidiyeköy, Phone: 0212 212 5752, C.C.C. Saskinbakkal: Bağdat Caddesi No: 372 Suadiye, Phone: 0216 411 7596

ISTANBUL UNIVERSITY LANGUAGE CENTER

Istanbul University Language Center is a department of Istanbul University offering foreign languages education (English, French, German, Russian, Arabic, Spanish, Greek, Portuguese etc.) in addition to Turkish as a Foreign Language, in the light of up-todate developments in education and with the help of the academic background of Istanbul University.

IULC is offering a discount on language lessons to members of IWI. For more information, visit: http://dilmerkezi.istanbul.edu.tr/en/ or call: 0212 243 6729.

MARRİOTT ŞİŞLİ SPA & HEALTH CLUB

Indulge in a day of relaxation and pampering at our luxury spa. We offer a wide range of massage and beauty treatments, guaranteed to refresh and renew you. IWI members receive a 20% discount. Appointments are required, Phone: 0212 375 0100 ext. 3695

SHANDRA SPA

Have you been looking for somewhere to have a relaxing and holistic facial?

Try the Skincare Specialists at Shandra Spa, Bebek. Friendly, experienced and results-oriented. For more details and to book an appointment visit: https://shandra-spa.salonized.com

CHILL OUT SPA NIŞANTAŞI

British salon owner, Ann Marie Sabuncu is offering IWI members a 15% discount on all treatments and package programs. Chill Out Spa is a small boutique spa using quality products from Decleor and the latest in technology. LPG body treatments and reflexology are just some of the treatments available. For more information, please contact Ann Marie at 0212 231 1159. www.chilloutspa.com.tr

PRIVATE TENNIS LESSONS

For kids and adults. Located in Istanbul, we specialize in coaching all skill levels. We’ve got you covered. Our classes focus on rapid development while being affordable and fun. We offer a 20% discount to IWI members.

Mert Ozgenc: Certified tennis trainer with more than 12 years coaching experience. Mobile: 0532 602 3883, Email: mert_ozgenc@yahoo.com

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IWI POLICIES Membership Directory Membership information is only available online in the members only area of the website at present, but depending on sponsorship availability, may again be printed in the future as it was in the past. Whether online or in print, any and all member information is provided to IWI members in strictest confidentiality. Provision of member information to third parties contravenes IWI policy

MEMBERSHIP

ADVERTISING

Membership registration is also available at our Newcomers meetings, held each month on both the European and Asian sides. Please refer to the Newcomers page in this Lale magazine for details of timing and location.

Classified ads: Restricted to 50 words.

Changing Address or Lale Problems?

Don’t forget to give us your new address (postal and/or e-mail) to avoid delays to the delivery of Lale magazine or for up-to-date IWI member information. Contact our Membership Coordinator by e-mail at membership@iwi-tr.org.

All advertising costs are payable by bank transfer.

No cash payments accepted. A copy of the payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: advertising@iwi-tr.org. Only paid advertisements can be included in Lale.

Membership is open to all women who hold a Non-Turkish passport or who are married to a foreign passport holding spouse. For application details, please visit our website www.iwi-tr.org.

If your Lale magazine doesn’t arrive, please contact the Membership Coordinator membership@iwi-tr.org

To place an advertisement please contact us at advertising@iwi-tr.org. Advertisements must be confirmed through signed contract before any payment is accepted.

Member cost: 1-3 FREE in our online publications (Non-Commercial Ads) Non-Member cost: $60 plus 18% VAT.

Payment Details Bank: Garanti Bankası Branch Code (Hesap Şubesi): 340 Etiler TL Account (TL Hesap): TR03 0006 2000 3400 0006 2991 17 USD Account (USD Hesap): TR09 0006 2000 3400 0009 0939 67 Customer Name: İstanbul Uluslararası Kadınlar Derneği İktisadi İşletmesi

DISCLAIMER

Lale Content The IWI as an organisation and the IWI Board members act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not accept any liability regarding the accuracy or content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles.

In order to comply with these laws or publishing standards the IWI reserve the right to reject or edit any submission to Lale. Furthermore, the IWI does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers.

Programmes Cancellation of a programme reservation after the deadline remains fully payable. Please refer to our website www.iwi-tr.org for up to date details, last minute additions or programme changes. The IWI reserves the right to cancel programmes due to insufficient numbers. You are responsible for both you and your child’s safety and the IWI cannot accept responsibility for injury or extra cost incurred during any activity organised by the IWI, or advertised in Lale.

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ANNUAL REPORTS | MAGAZINE PUBLISHING | CORPORATE VIDEOS

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IICS. Exceptional. Forward Thinking.

Years of Academic Excellence

1911-2011

IICS is the only Early Years 3 through Grade 12 International school in Istanbul fully authorized and globally accredited by the IB, CIS and NEASC. Lale-NOV-DEC-NEW.indd 2

• Child-centered education Early Years 3 through Grade 12 • Rigorous academics delivered by highly qualified faculty • Top university acceptances • Fully-authorized International Baccalaureate school (PYP, MYP, DP) • Multicultural staff & students • Modern technology & resources • Over a century of excellence

www.iics.k12.tr

www.iics.k12.tr

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