Lale May June 2016

MAGAZINE OF THE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN OF ISTANBUL

05 MAY - JUNE 2016

BEAUTIFUL

BÜYÜKADA

Princes Islands in the springtime

ART IN KUZGUNCUK Discover the Harmony Gallery

Pro-Bono Volunteering

SANDRINE RAMBOUX TALKS ABOUT C@RMA

Visit Alaçatı

IDEAS FOR SUMMER

42

CONTENTS MAY - JUNE 2016

LALE NEWS

4 SOCIETY Hip happenings about town – International Women’s Day Brunch, Emirgan Park Picnic and lots more

LALE LIFESTYLE

26 RELATIONSHIPS What keeps people in

miserable marriages? Psychoanalyst Melike Kayhan investigates

20 NETWORKING Why bother with a life coach? Plus upcoming IPWIN events

28 WELLBEING Holistic wellbeing centre SiZe explains why mindfulness is so important for our health

22 TÜRKIYE’YE HOŞGELDIN! Meet Istanbul

30 HEALTH Acıbadem recommends a good, old-

24 CHARITIES Reportage on work being done to

48 TRAVEL A short break in Alaçatı on the Çesme

50 EVENTS Sail towards summer with a host of

LALE REGULARS

newbie Karen Yarnold and follow her hilarious adventures as she settles in

combat gender-based violence in Turkey

cultural and social events with the IWI

LALE FEATURES

32 NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR Spring is the perfect time for a visit to the Princes Island of Büyükada 38 INTERVIEW Sandrine Ramboux talks to us about

her innovative new platform for pro-bono work, C@rma

42 CULTURE Discover Harmony Gallery, a gem of contemporary art tucked away in Kuzguncuk

48

42

fashioned Mediterranean diet

Peninsula is just what the doctor ordered

3 LETTERS FROM THE EDITOR AND THE CHAIR 56 BOARD NEWS 57 NEWCOMERS 58 MUMS ’N KIDS 60 CLUBS, GROUPS AND ASSOCIATIONS 63 SPECIAL OFFERS

38

LALE

BOARD INFORMATION IWI Office Hours: Wednesday 10:30am to 1:00pm Adresi / Address: Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Çamlıtepe Sitesi No:74 Blok C1 / D2 Ulus Ortaköy İstanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 287 35 71 www.iwi-tr.org

Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027 İrtibat Adresi / Address: Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Çamlıtepe Sitesi No:74 Blok C1 / D2 Ulus Ortaköy, İstanbul – TURKEY İmtiyaz Sahibi / Licensee: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli Tasarım / Design: Marlet Corporate Publications www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Matbaa / Printer: Marlet Print Solutions Fener Kalamış Caddesi: No:30 Kalamış / İstanbul www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Basım Tarihi: 24.04.2016 Sayı: 80 Official Facebook page: facebook.com/istanbulwomen Instagram account @iwistanbul Cover picture: Vista from Büyükada

by Kamila Bakırhan

2

IWI BOARD MEMBERS Chairwoman

Stephanie Machoi

chairwoman@iwi-tr.org

Sponsorship Coordinator, Vice Chairwoman

Anne Marie Yilmaz

sponsorship@iwi-tr.org

Treasurer

Leen Saket

treasury@iwi-tr.org

Office Coordinator

Jeanette von AlvenslebenNiethammer

secretary@iwi-tr.org

Membership Coordinator

Elena Sklyarskaya

membership@iwi-tr.org

Lale Editor

Nina Lister

lale@iwi-tr.org

Advertising Coordinator

Aylin Gottardo

advertising@iwi-tr.org

Neighbourhood Community Coordinator

Position Available

ncm@iwi-tr.org

Newcomers Coordinator (European side)

Ayse Yücel

newcomerseurope@iwi-tr.org

Newcomers Coordinator (Asian side)

Gabriele Sailer

newcomersasia@iwi-tr.org

Events Coordinator

Merle Klehn

events@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Coordinator

Kristina Wilfore

charity@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Coordinator

Fiona Slay

programs@iwi-tr.org

Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator

Position available

mumsnkids@iwi-tr.org

IPWIN Coordinator

Katharina Meyer

ipwin@iwi-tr.org

SEO Online and Branding Coordinator

Anna Ilhan

brandingcoordinator@iwi-tr. org

Process Optimising Coordinator

Karen Yarnold

operations@iwi-tr.org

Relationship Manager

Halima Hodzic

relationshipmanager@iwi-tr. org

IWI Newsletter Coordinator

Suzy Kaluti

iwieletter@iwi-tr.org

Digital Media & Website Coordinator

Katja Tongucer

digitalmedia@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Team / Spring Festival

Tanja Grüb

programs@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Volunteer Coordinator

Nathalie Versavel

charity@iwi-tr.org

IWI EMBEDDED TEAM

Communications Associate Eleanor Ross

communications@iwi-tr.org

Events Team and administrative support

Ayla Schwartkop

adminteam@iwi-tr.org

Mums ‘n Kids Party Coordinator

Maria Ciftgül

mumsnkids@iwi-tr.org

LALE

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR As the weather warms up in Istanbul, it is natural to start to feel the call of the Bosphorus.

Now is the perfect time for trips out to the islands before the crazy summer rush begins, to breathe in some clear air, sample some fresh fish at one of the four islands’ many restaurants and take a tour of some of the most picturesque architecture and scenery that Istanbul has to offer. For this reason, our Neighbourhood Tour this issue focuses on the largest of the islands, Büyükada, where visitors can walk up to the famous Aya Yorgi church at the top of the island and view other wonderful pieces of history such as the house where Trotsky lived in exile and the San Pacifico Roman Catholic Church built by Franciscans in the 19th Century. If you fancy a stop over, don’t miss the slightly ageing glamour of the island’s Splendid Palas Hotel. See our feature on page 32.

This issue’s inspiring woman, interviewed on page 38, is the impressive Sandrine Ramboux, an investment banker from Belgium who talks to us about life in Istanbul and her innovative new platform, C@rma, which matches highly skilled professional volunteers with NGOs which are lacking skills for specific projects they need to undertake.

Our culture section this issue features a gem of a small gallery in Kuzguncuk, starting on page 42. Harmony is a real platform for up-and-coming artists in Istanbul, both local and foreign. Most recently it featured a fascinating exhibition entitled Beraber, of works by husband and wife Yusuf and Ursula Katipoğlu, and depicting what “Together” means to each of them.

Finally, don’t miss our fabulous new column from IWI board member Karen Yarnold, who arrived recently to Istanbul and gives her hilarıous take on adapting to this crazy place as only a newcomer can, page 22. Enjoy!

Nina Lister Lale Editor lale@iwi-tr.org

A LETTER FROM THE CHAIR Dear vibrant ladies

Recently, joining a workshop led by a Human Resources guru from the United States in Boston, I was reminded that I should try to change my perspective more often in order to widen my horizons. I love new challenges, so I often try to find ways to do this. Often it starts with very small things. For example, joining an IWI event as a participant instead of organising the event. Being taught French by my 13-year-old daughter instead of explaining her maths to her. Being invited by my 11-year-old old daughter to her birthday party instead of managing the crowd of 13 youngsters.

To be honest, I failed completely with the last one. In order to avoid complete and utter chaos and a house being totally trashed, I changed my role right at the beginning of the party. Maybe I will try it again next year. But changing roles really opens my eyes: I gain respect for the efforts of the other party. This is what I really like within the IWI – so many women from so many different countries change their perspective by living in Istanbul. By leaving their jobs and becoming a trailing spouse. By running a business instead of being an employee. By becoming a mother instead of being a business professional. We have all gained respect for each other and that makes it enriching to serve within the IWI. From women for women – with great respect for all our achievements.

Warmest greetings, Stephanie Machoi Chairwoman chairwoman@iwi-tr.org

LALE SOCIETY

EMIRGAN PICNIC PHOTOGRAPHY: HALIMA HODZIC

IWI ladies enjoyed a pot-luck picnic among the tulips at Emirgan Park in April to celebrate the famous Istanbul spring festival

Samira from Morocco and Arzu from Germany

Ayla from Germany and Ayşe from Turkey

Ayşe gets stuck in

Sia from the US, Arzu from Germany and Lale from Germany

Lale from Germany, Mila from Russia, Leen from Jordan, Tülin from Holland, Ilkay from Holland, Samira from Morocco, Arzu from Germany, Nilgün from Turkey, Leslie Serap from Germany, Tülin from Holland, Leen from from the US, Sia from the US. Front: Ayşe from Turkey Jordan, Mila from Russia and Lale from Germany

Ayşe from Turkey and Ilkay from Holland

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Leslie and Sia from the US, Arzu and Lale from Germany

Jale and Elize from Germany

LALE SOCIETY

CULINARY WALK PHOTOGRAPHY: HALIMA HODZIC

IWI members enjoyed a culinary walk around the streets of Kadıköy, followed by a trip to the colourful Salı Pazarı in Göztepe

At the beautiful Salı Pazarı

Toughing out the rain to enjoy the tour

Ulrike, Veronika and Elke from Germany

Elke from Germany

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LALE SOCIETY

ROOFTOP TOUR

One of the IWI’s regular coffee morning groups took an excursion to the Grand Bazaar for a fascinating tour by Monica Fritz

PHOTOGRAPHY: HALIMA HODZIC

Rhiannon from the UK, Beate from Germany, Monisha from the US, Monica from the US, Halima from Bosnia, Theresa from Germany, Ayla from Germany, Stephanie from Germany, Ina from Germany, Heike from Germany

Ayla from Germany, Rhiannon from the UK, Stephanie from Germany, Heike from Germany

One of the traditional craftsmen still working at the Grand Bazaar

Stephanie and Ina from Germany

Tour leader Monica, from the US

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Come

explore with us !

keystoneschools.com.tr I 0216 370 4951 I

K.Çamlıca

-

İstanbul

LALE SOCIETY

INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY PHOTOGRAPHY: KRISTEN MIKULSKI

We celebrated International Women’s Day with a delicious brunch at the top of the Marriot Hotel in Şişli. IWI ladies enjoyed omelettes, waffles and a special cocktail mixed by Hazar, one of the Diageo World Class Competition “Best Bartender” Mixologist finalists

Camilia from Tunisia, Gülfem from Turkey, Daffa from Mali

Rosie from Ireland, Silke from Germany, Halise from Germany and Elke from Germany

Ayşe from Turkey

Mary from Australia, Daffa from Mali and Camilia from Tunisia

Elke from Germany, Rosie from Ireland and Silke and Halise from Germany

Halima from Bosnia and Mary from Australia

Mary from Australia and Halima from Bosnia

Elke from Germany and Mary from Australia enjoy some freshly-cooked omelettes

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Halise from Germany

LALE SOCIETY

ALANCHA SEAFOOD DEMO PHOTOGRAPHY: KAMILA BAKIRHAN

Alancha Restaurant in Maçka hosted a fascinating seafood cook-andlunch workshop in March. IWI ladies had the opportunity to prepare seafood dishes from Peru, France and Belgium before tucking into a delicious lunch

Mary from Australia, Britt and Jill from Germany, Gülfem from Turkey, Jenny from Australia, Ayşe from Turkey, Chef Kemal, Marion from France and Svitlana from Russia

Taking note!

Posing with the chef

Jill from Germany, Sally from Australia, Chef Kemal and Ayşe from Turkey

Listening carefully to Chef Kemal

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Jenny from Australia and Jill from Germany

LALE SOCIETY

CERAMICS WORKSHOP PHOTOGRAPHY: HALIMA HODZIC

Ceramics boutique Color Me in Etiler hosted a fun workshop, during which ladies painted bowls and ornaments

Gülfem from Turkey

Özlem and Lale from Turkey

Özlem from Turkey

Kathleen from Switzerland

Lale, owner of Color Me Ceramics

Kathleen from Switzerland and Sophie from France

Gülfem from Turkey

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Choosing their colours

Lale, Özlem and Ayşe from Turkey

LALE SOCIETY

IWI SPORTS PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

D-Gym in Etiler hosted a fun get-fit-for-summer taster pilates session at its new gym, while the ISTA IWI Tennis Club held its week-long spring tournament, sponsored by Dent Beauté

Jenny from Australia, Monisha from the US, Gina from Holland, Olga from Ukraine, Aylin from Germany, Lale from Turkey

Gina from Holland, Olga from Ukraine, Aylin from Germany, Monisha from the US, Lale from Turkey and Jenny from Australia

Monica from Brazil, Debbie from the UK, Nazan and Nurçin from Turkey

Şaziye from Turkey and Janice from Malaysia

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Şaziye from Turkey and Nazan from Turkey

Janice from Malaysia, Martina from Germany, Debbie from the UK and Monica from Brazil

LALE SOCIETY

EATALY COOKING DEMO PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

Chef Utku at the Eataly professional kitchens in the Zorlu Centre treated us to a wonderful cookery demonstration, followed by lunch and wine.

Christine from Germany and Sylvia from Poland

Sylvia from Poland and Christine from Germany

Listening attentively to Chef Utku

Chef Utku and Ayşe from Turkey

Sia from the US and Ayşe from Turkey

Octavia and Sylvana from Germany

Christine from Germany

Yoko from Japan

Sylvana from Germany

Sylvia from Poland and Octavia from Germany

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Anna from Russia

Bernadine from South Africa and Yoko from Japan

LALE SOCIETY

BEYLERBEYI WALKING TOUR PHOTOGRAPHY: KAMILA BAKIRHAN

IWI ladies enjoyed a fun and instructive tour of the streets and highlights of the historic neighbourhood of Beylerbeyi on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, taking in sights such as Beylerbeyi Sarayı next to the First Bridge

Hülya from Germany and Jale from Iraq

Olga from Russia, Anna and Eva from Sweden

Mary from Australia, Kirsi from Finland, Patricia from the UK and Gülşem from Turkey

Ready to go!

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LALE SOCIETY

ELGIZ MUSEUM TOUR PHOTOGRAPHY: VICTORIA SKEET

We enjoyed a tour of some of the collection of the Elgiz Museum in Maslak, displaying the private contemporary art collection of architect Can Elgiz and his wife Sevda.

The gallery aims to promote and provide a platform for the development of contemporary art in Turkey

Elke from Germany and Anna from Australia

Enjoying the tour

Fiona and Nina from the UK

On the tour

Gülşen from Turkey and Monisha from the US

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Ayla from Germany and Nina from the UK

LALE SOCIETY

KADIKÖY TOUR PHOTOGRAPHY: AIVITA LEJNIECE

IWI Asia-Side Coordinator Gabriele Sailer hosted ladies on a fun and interesting coffee-and-culture tour of Kadıköy in March

BJ from the US, Christina from Greece, Gabriele from Germany, Süheyla from Turkey and Octavia from Germany

Together with the Priest from the Avis Triada Greek Orthodox Church

Süheyla from Turkey and Octavia from Germany

Enjoying some refreshments after the tour

Monisha from the US

Anna from Australia

Süheyla from Turkey, Mimo from the US, BJ from the US and Christina from Greece

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LALE NETWORKING

THE BENEFITS OF LIFE COACHING Life coaching can have many wonderful benefits in both your personal life and professional life, especially if you are working overseas in a different culture. Halima Hodzic talked about the benefits to professional coach Özlem Hersek, who led a special IPWIN workshop in March FEATURE HALIMA HODZIC. PHOTOGRAPHY: GRAPHICSTOCK

L

ife coaching works on the premise that if you can really run with your natural skills and talents, you can achieve what you set out to do more efficiently and confidently.

And it can be particularly helpful for those working in different cultures. Özlem Hersek, a consultant and cultural coach for expats and their families, has devoted her career to increasing the comfort, confidence and competence of people working in multicultural environments. She explains that a life coach is someone who will help improve your personal and/or professional life by offering support and encouragement while suggesting new ways to achieve your goals. It’s more of a partnership than anything else, a support system. Coaching does not provide the answers for you, but helps you to find them for yourself.

WAYS OF THINKING

Life coaching can help shift your thought framework, says Özlem, who specialises in inter-cultural communication and has devised cross-cultural orientation programmes for business executives in many countries. “It can bring fresh perspectives and new ideas or solutions that you are not able to access when you are stressed or frustrated or simply feel like you have hit the plateau,” she adds. “Everyone has habits of thinking that just aren’t working out or helping out, and may even be making the situation worse. Coaching helps you break free of these habits by showing you new perspectives, pointing out your blind spots, and bringing on big “ah-haa!” moments.” Life coaching helps you to unlearn these and develop new strategies that will actually work for you.

SELF CONFIDENCE

Coaching is a good way to get positive feedback. It can help you challenge your beliefs that you have about yourself, boost your self-esteem and help you build a stronger and more positive self-image. It’s also harder to slip back into old habits when you have coaching support as the coach helps you deal with any setbacks and gets you to keep trying.

Confidence coaching can quickly reverse your self-defeating attitude and as your confidence grows, you’ll like and believe in yourself more than ever before.

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ACCOUNTABILITY – THE POWER OF YOUR WORD

Life coaching can help you define what success looks like and set milestones to measure your progress along the way so you can easily track how close you are to reaching your goals. It also helps keep you on track by encouraging you and at the same time pushing you to be more responsible and accountable by needing to report the progress to your life coach. “Accounting for your actions will cause you to take a good look at yourself, start eliminating the excuses and start making deliberate actions that bring about your intended success,” explains Özlem. “You’ll often times identify action steps through coaching that you would have never thought of on your own.” Whether you consider yourself motivated or not, creative or not, never underestimate the power of your word within the coaching relationship.

SAVE TIME - CREATE BALANCE

Constant time pressure and frustration over not being able to fit in everything that needs to be done can put you in a “race mode”. Between managing your business and/or a career, your home, relationships, family – every day can start to feel like a race that leaves you exhausted. Life coaching helps you identify the reasons behind your accelerated life speed, teaches you how to slow down and it may even be by actually making you take a step back so you can organise, prioritise and most importantly get caught up so you can keep up. Racing your way through life only leads to more stress, overwhelm and overwork. A life coach can also give you tools to manage stress and anxiety as well as provide clarity and a greater awareness so you can always feel that you have a choice and are in control.

Life coaching is a very practical process you can use to grow and improve yourself as a person in many different ways whether you choose to do it online, by phone or face to face.

Hiring a life coach for yourself is similar to if you were to find yourself a consultant to teach you the skills you would need to reach your goals in a business setting. However, unlike many consultants who propose a solution and leave you to implement it, the life coach stays with you to help you integrate the changes.

JOIN IN WITH IPWIN

IPWIN EVENTS

Every month, the IWI’s professional networking and business arm organises many inspiring events. Here is a taste of what is coming up in May and June BLOGGING IN THE BUSINESS WORLD

Have you ever wanted to share your experiences as a foreign woman in Istanbul? Do you need to increase your personal or professional presence online but have been struggling with setting up your blog? This month, IPWIN has partnered with Today I Will, an educational platform offering practical, tailored workshops.

In this workshop you will learn how to set up your own blog in under a day. Speaker Camille Bossel will explain the importance of having an online voice, and demonstrate the tools you need to write effective content as well as the best practices to promote your articles and maximise exposure.

Don’t forget to bring your laptop along for the practical part of the workshop – by the end of the session, you will have set up your very own blog.

Launched in London by Camille Bossel, a Swiss female entrepreneur, the Today I Will community aims at empowering more women with the essential web, design and marketing skills to set up their own businesses. “Carving a path as a female founder is an uphill battle but there is no excuses for us to quit before we start. My advice to female entrepreneurs is to get equipped with the essential skills and take your success into your own hands,” She says.

For more information about Today I Will, see www.facebook. com/todayiwillco.

The workshop will include light refreshments and free parking at the hotel. You can sign-up for IWI membership at our event. Please note that, as per IWI policy guidelines, a reservation made is a reservation paid. Any cancellations two days or less, prior to the event and no-shows will be charged accordingly.

Date

Thursday, May 12

Time

6.30pm to 9.30pm

Address

Marriott Hotel Şişli

Cost

Business Members 125TL, Classic Members 130TL, Basic Members 140TL, Guests 150TL

Participants

Maximum 10

Reservations

ipwin@iwi-tr.org

Person to contact

Katharina Meyer

Contact Details

ipwin@iwi-tr.org

HOLISTIC WELLBEING

For a healthy personal and professional life, it is important to gain a holistic perspective and maintain balance between the physical, mental, emotional and spiritual.

This workshop, by SiZe Bütünsel Yaklaşım, (www.sizebutunselyaklasim.com/en), an organisation offering various workshops and programmes to support individuals and corporations, aims to raise awareness of holistic wellbeing and provide an opportunity to practise several methods to be used both in corporate and social life.

The workshop will be held by Sibel Yücesan, founder of SiZe and president of the Professional Women Network, Istanbul, and Reyhan Elmasrı, a corporate trainer and wellbeing consultant. The event includes light refreshments and free parking.

Date

Tuesday, June 14

Time

6.30pm to 9.30pm

Address

Marriott Hotel, Şişli

Cost

Business Members 75TL, Classic Members 80TL, Basic Members 90TL, Guests 100TL

Reservations

ipwin@iwi-tr.org

Person to contact

Katharina Meyer

Contact Details

ipwin@iwi-tr.org

21

LALE EXPAT LIFE

TÜRKIYE’YE

HOŞGELDIN!

Istanbul can come as something of a shock to any newcomer. Join our new arrival, Karen Yarnold, as she negotiates the trials and tribulations of starting a new life in this crazy, amazing city FEATURE: KAREN YARNOLD . PHOTOGRAPHY: GRAPHICSTOCK

Bakırköy and Yeşilköy are on every metro map but they’re not really there. The master plan for the Marmaray line failed when the money ran out and the line stopped at Yenikapı. So we walked through some very dirty and very busy streets, the unstable pavements precarious underfoot. (Singapore – you spoiled us!). Got to the Metrobus “station” to find that it was little more than a tram stop. Once again Turkish hospitality prevailed – when a very kind passer-by helped us buy our travel cards.

I

moved to Istanbul last year after my husband, Paul, accepted a job with Turkish Airlines. We had lived in Singapore for four years so we had already done the expat transition. Moving to Turkey would be the same surely?

Hmmmm … perhaps not. After an amazing send-off by our cycling friends at Changi airport (and five weeks of saying goodbye to all our friends in Singapore), we boarded the overnight flight to Istanbul. We even got our beloved racing bikes on board for the small sum of SGD $190 for two – not bad for all that extra luggage, and a complete waste of money as I will explain in a future column. We got a few hours’ sleep and arrived at Atatürk airport at 5.30am.

Eventually (after two hours) our bıkes made it through the red tape, so we loaded two trollies with nine pieces of luggage and went in search of a taxi.

We were approached by a nice man at the extremely noisy International Arrivals area who seemed unfazed by the extent of our luggage. He could get us a taxi. So we followed him onto the rooftop of a car park, where a huge white van was waiting. After much heaving and struggling the bags and bikes were all loaded. Short-lived sigh of relief. The moneygrabbing so-and-so only wanted 400 TL for the 15-minute ride to Bakırköy. So much for the savings on the baggage allowance! We were stuck on the roof of the carpark with nine bags and too tired to argue.

We checked into our service apartment, which wouldn’t be ready until 2pm, but at least the guy at the desk restored our faith in humanity with a cup of coffee and a smile, even though he couldn’t speak to us. So, what to do until 2pm?

We decided to go in search of the local metro station – according to the map it was only 0.5km away. Yeah right!

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Then it was a supermarket shopping trip for some basics.

First time I’ve ever felt tears prick at the back of my eyes when I’m looking for shampoo and conditioner! Have you ever used the google translate app? The one where you show your phone the picture and it translates in front of you? I’m not sure who loaded the Turkish version but it was about as much use as a chocolate teapot. Similar story for the “milk” we bought which turned out to be runny yoghurt. Made for a messy cup of tea.

Still, at least we recognised Efes beer. After four years on Tiger in Singapore it was time for a change. And just as well we bought some at the supermarket as it turns out that all the cafes in Bakırköy are dry. Just as well really – some enforced abstention after five weeks of goodbye parties and an extra 5kg in weight.

Weighed down with jet-lag and the unasked question of “what have we done?” we headed back to watch some TV and unwind. Only to discover more than 1,000 TV channels, and not one in English. Oh, and I forgot to mention – the bed sheets were wet as, for some reason, that’s how the hotel delivered all sheets and towels to the room – straight from the washing machine – but at least they were nicely folded.

Summary of the first day – it’s a whole new ball game visiting a place when you will be a resident rather than a tourist.

KEY FINDINGS ON DAY ONE Must learn Turkish – even if it’s only the basics. It shows that we want to integrate, and also makes life a lot easier Don’t trust Google Translate app on your phone Don’t trust Google Maps to reflect reality – it’s just a ballpark Avoid white vans. Turkish people are generally very lovely and helpful – unless they own a white van parked at the airport.

LALE CHARITIES

WHEN BEING A WOMAN IS FATAL Gender-based and domestic violence is a major problem in Turkey, but it is no longer a silent one. IWI Social Responsibility Volunteer Coordinator Nathalie Versavel reports FEATURE: NATHALIE VERSAVEL. PHOTOGRAPHY: GRAPHICSTOCK

D

omestic violence is a common problem in Turkey, but a taboo topic. Yet recent high-profile murders of young women are moving this issue from a stigma towards greater community awareness and solutions.

In 2015, Özgecan Aslan was the last passenger on a minibus on her way home from a shopping trip in the city of Mersin, southern Turkey when the driver veered off his route and attempted to rape her. Özgecan, a 20-year-old student, was brutally murdered for resisting the rape attempt. Her body was discovered burned and mutilated, and it became a murder that sparked international outcry. Cansu Kaya was an 18-year-old girl who was found dead in a canal in the western province of Mugla in June 2015. The autopsy report revealed she was sexually assaulted after being killed. These are just two recent examples of countless cases of gender-based violence in Turkey.

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The murders of Özgecan and Cansu triggered an outpour of grief and protest against the all-too-often brushed-aside issue, sparking national campaigns to create dialogue, awareness and action on gender-based violence.

Ceren Akkaya, a lawyer who volunteers at Mor Çatı, a Turkish anti-violence group and IWI grantee, believes violence against women stems from the common perception of inequality between men and women in Turkish society.

“Women are viewed as part of a family rather than as individuals – a mother, a wife, a daughter,” she says. Albeit a changing stereotype, cultural norms and traditions evidently play a large role in shaping society – and, therefore, perceptions of women. Akkaya the stigma of violence against women is lessening, as women’s organisations are gaining strength, and the media is paying more attention to the topic.

LALE CHARITIES A PREVALENT VIOLENCE

In March 2012, Turkey became the first country to ratify the Istanbul Convention, a convention to combat violence against women, placing Turkey on the international arena. On a national scale, Turkey’s domestic laws recognise men and women as equal, and in 2012 a law on the Prevention of Domestic Violence and Protection of Family was passed. These laws are big achievements internationally, yet domestically and in regards to implementation, advocates believe little has changed. Turkey made scant progress in reducing domestic violence between 2008 and 2014, according to the Domestic Violence Against Women Report 2014. According to a recent study by Turkey’s Ministry of Family and Social Policies, some 86 percent of Turkish women say they have been subjected to physical or psychological violence by their partners or family.

Social norms are still influencing courts and politicians. The language often used by the latter plays a big role in this, as they often dictate everything from how a woman should act, to what she should wear. In 2014, a man in eastern Turkey who stabbed his wife multiple times was given a reduced sentence after he argued she was wearing “provocative” leggings.

CREATIVE SOLUTIONS

Advocates against domestic violence are still pushing this issue into the public sphere. Some examples of this are:

A nation-wide twitter campaign, where Turkish women used the hashtag #sendeanlat (“tell your story”) featured

more than 800,000 tweets telling stories of harassment, violence, or intimidation. Large rallies were held in a number of Turkish cities including Istanbul and Ankara the weekend Özgecan was killed, with thousands of men and women taking to the streets dressed in black, mourning and protesting for her, and all other women subjected to violence.

Vodafone Turkey has a new app called Easy Rescue and developed in the summer of 2015, which helps victims of domestic violence to seek safety by connecting them with emergency services such as police and hotlines.

More importantly, it was created so that the abuser does not know the app has been activated.

The campaign Hollaback! An international movement originally launched in New York, it is now also live in Istanbul and is an online platform where users can map, share or document incidents of harassment to create awareness for the community.

which shockingly showed male passers by kicking and ripping off the cut outs’ arms and legs. In the wake of Özgecan Aslan’s death, the video went viral again and had more than two million views with the message: “Not even posters of women are safe from violence.”

A 2004 campaign called No! To Domestic Violence, in cooperation with the Istanbul Office of the Governor.

This encouraged Hürriyet newspaper to increase the number of articles on domestic violence alongside a No! To Domestic Violence logo. Training was also organised to raise awareness and to support those who had been subject to domestic violence.

These campaigns, among others, are starting to lift the lid on the scale of violence against women. Sadly, the statistics show such violence is not on the decline, but it is, at least, no longer a hidden subject.

Mor Çatı released a poster campaign on Valentine’s Day, with a number of different images of a man criticising or behaving violently towards his girlfriend, with the caption reading: “If there is violence, it’s not love.” According to Ceren Akkayan, this campaign was extremely effective, as women were encouraged to visit the Mor Çatı website to complete a questionnaire assessing their own relationships.

The charity also released a video in 2010 to raise awareness of violence towards women in a public way. Posters were put up across Istanbul of life-size pictures of women jumping for joy. Mor Çatı then set up hidden cameras to test the public’s response to the campaign,

HOW YOU CAN HELP

Expat women in Turkey can also suffer from violence or harassment on the street but you can activate channels to combat everyday street harassment.

We also need to work together to raise awareness, support women you know who may be a victim of violence, and help remove societal stigma to stop gender-based violence. Recognising the problem and finding ways to encourage dialogue helps create an environment where longer-term solutions can be pursued.

Using social media platforms and events, we can share our experiences as expats and as well as information and news from our own countries.

There is no country in the world where domestic violence is not an issue.

So now is the time to act and show solidarity in Turkey.

DOMESTIC VIOLENCE IN TURKEY: SOME STATISTICS 841 women and 479 men interviewed across 10 Turkish provinces, Hürriyet Daily News 86% of women have been subjected to physical or psychological violence by their partners or family

Only 43% take legal action

70% of women report they were physically assaulted by partners, family members, or neighbours

82% face psychological assault among uneducated

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LALE RELATIONSHIPS

?

FEATURE: MELIKE KAYHAN. PHOTOGRAPHY: GRAPHICSTOCK

SHOULD I

STAY GO

or

It can be upsetting and frustrating to watch an unhappy marriage from the outside, often wondering why people don’t leave miserable or dysfunctional relationships.

Psychotherapist and psychoanalyst Melike Kayhan explores an intriguing question

A

s a couple’s therapist, I often encounter partners in severe distress. I’ll find myself in a room with two people who are barely speaking or, especially during early meetings, unable to have a conversation that doesn’t become a shouting match. We tend to think that other people have perfect relationships. In fact, this scenario is incredibly uncommon, which is understandable when you consider that a relationship has to meet the hopes, needs and longings of two completely autonomous people. It’s easy for things to go wrong.

What has always intrigued me, however, is just how far couples will go to preserve a relationship, even if it’s causing them – and sometimes their children – terrible pain. When I first started out as a couple’s counsellor I’d meet partners who appeared so mismatched I wondered how they’d got together. Did they have a sadomasochistic streak? And how had they been able to continue living together under such duress?

You won’t be surprised to learn that I’m not the only psychotherapist to have thought about our capacity to endure painful relationships. Dr James Grotstein, a brilliant psychiatrist and psychoanalyst who sadly passed away last year, believed we choose to stay in harrowing relationships because they shield us from something far worse – the “unbearable terror” of the meaningless existence. When we are in a relationship, we feel validated. When we’re not, we must confront what Grotstein called the void, or nothingness.

Or as another great psychoanalyst, Otto F Kernberg, put it, in a relationship we feel a sense of “aliveness instead of deadness”.

Our urge to protect and preserve our relationships is bound up with group psychology. Human beings are herd animals.

We have a deep-seated drive to belong and our relationship with others is essential to personal development. In psychological terms, this sense of identity within a group is known as our collective group self. Its pull is so strong that some human beings, such as the Kamikaze suicide bombers deployed by Japan during World War Two, are willing to die for it. These men sacrificed their own lives so that the sanctity of the group – in this case national pride and the unity of Japan – could be preserved.

This may sound a far cry from an unhappy marriage but, underneath, there’s a similar dynamic at play. The need to protect the collective group self or in this case, what we could call the couple self, is so powerful that partners will often sacrifice themselves, and their families, in a bid to protect the union.

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DO WE REALLY CHOOSE OUR PARTNER?

If group psychology can help us understand our capacity to endure pain in relationships, how can we explain the fact that we’re sometimes drawn to romantic partners who appear to be not just incompatible with us, but sure to hurt us? Psychoanalysts believe our choice of partner is rooted in unconscious processes that have very little to do with our rational mind. This doesn’t mean that there isn’t an internal logic to these unconscious choices; indeed, according to psychoanalytic theory, we are usually seeking to heal a wound inflicted in childhood.

This means we may be drawn to a partner who is vastly different from the parent who hurt us, or, alternatively, a partner who is very similar, in the hope that, this time, we can repair the injury. To illustrate the first scenario, the child of a father who had numerous extra-marital affairs chooses a partner who worships them, and appears entirely faithful.

In the second scenario, the child of a volatile, abusive parent ends up with a series of partners who are similarly volatile, because of an unconscious desire to heal the parent, and an internal fantasy that this is possible.

GOING FOR COUPLES THERAPY

Emotional unhappiness in a relationship is usually a sign of unresolved issues from both partners’ pasts. These issues can be aired and talked through in couple’s therapy.

Counselling gives partners the chance to grow, develop and find new ways of relating to each other. This isn’t always easy.

All too often, couples fall back on destructive but reassuringly familiar patterns of behaviour. Change takes time.

Sometimes we are incompatible with the person we have chosen. But as I’ve learned from all the couples I’ve worked with, many romantic partners stop loving themselves, and one another, simply because they are asking too much of the relationship. Without realising it, they do expect the other person to be able to heal past wounds. It’s only when couples become more aware of these unworkable demands – these unconscious fantasies – that they can have a more emotionally satisfying relationship. In couple’s therapy, this change can only take place when the insights gained through therapy are experienced within the relationship again and again.

Melike Kayhan is a British-trained psychoanalyst, psychotherapist and couple’s and family therapist. Her practice, Face to Face Therapia – Psychotherapy & Marital Therapy Centre, is based in Levent. For more information, please go to www.facetofaceterapi.com and www.couplescounsellingistanbul.com.

SPONSORED FEATURE

HEALING THE

WHOLE

Inside the calming space of SiZe Holistic Approach wellbeing centre

FEATURE: NINA LISTER. PHOTOGRAPHY: HALIMA HODZIC

A growing appreciation for the benefits of mindfulness when it comes to getting the most out of life is leading individuals and corporations alike to invest more time and effort into learning this important life skill. We talked to Sibel Yücesan and her partner, Zeynep Balcı, of SiZe Holistic Approach

I

n the modern day, our lives have become more accelerated and are increasingly stressful to manage. We are moving less, eating faster, spending less time with friends and have less time to really think about how we feel. This is an unhealthy way of being, but one which can be mitigated through a holistic approach to finding a healthy work-life balance. At its centre in Beyoğlu, SiZe Holistic Approach, helps its clients to improve their health and wellness permanently through its programmes which promote a much higher level of mindfulness – being much more aware of one’s feelings, emotions and needs – and overall wellbeing. The wellbeing centre was founded by partners Sibel Yücesan, who has a corporate background and is also president of the Professional Women Network, Istanbul, and Zeynep Balcı, a psychologist and professional coach.

All of SiZe’s programmes are conducted by highly qualified professionals in their fields and include mindfulness, reiki, yoga, Access Energy Transformation (an important transformative process developed in the US), Soul Collage (a process of self-discovery and self-knowledge), Kavu Savant

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Sana (body-and-soul healing), cigong, career consultancy and coaching. All coaches are accredited by the International Coach Federation.

SiZe – which both means “To You” and is a combination of the beginning letters of the founders’ names, Sibel and Zeynep – also offers comprehensive and tailored solutions to corporations, which are fast discovering the inspiring benefits these sorts of training programmes can have on staff morale and wellbeing. We asked Sibel to tell us more about this intriguing new way of focusing on human wellbeing.

What is mindfulness?

Mindfulness is something that is becoming very fashionable in Turkey – it is already highly developed in the US and the UK and has been for about 20 years. It is a skill used by many corporations now to get the best out of their workforce.

Mindfulness is about focusing on being in the present and being present in the moment. It is about being aware of your thoughts, emotions and opinions in any given moment and not judging yourself for the past or worrying for the future.

For more information about the services provided at SiZe’s calm and stylish centre in Beyoğlu, please go to www.sizebutunselyaklasim.com, email info@sizebutunselyaklasim.com or call +90 (212) 327 9677 Studies have shown that we spend about 50 per cent of the time living in the past or the future and that is a huge loss.

Corporations are beginning to understand this – the benefit of people being in meetings, for example, and properly focused on the present, not fretting about last month’s sales figures or worrying about next week’s board meeting. Really focusing on the here and now. Mindfulness teaches people to be aware and conscious in the present and to focus their actions in the present. For example, when you eat, do it mindfully – taste it, chew it, swallow it, really experience it and focus on the sentiments and emotions it evokes in you.

What are the main benefits of mindfulness?

Mindfulness has been shown to reduce stress levels and increase productivity, which explains why corporations are becoming more interested. Studies have shown that multitasking is not the only way – or most efficient way – to get things done. Or, rather, they have shown that we don’t do it well. While it is possible to do more than one thing at once, you cannot do them efficiently if you do not focus yourself in the present while you are doing them.

How can we achieve mindfulness?

First we have to learn how to not judge ourselves – something that we all do, but especially women. This is one of the main conditions – to accept things as they are and be aware of our own emotions during every action. We should use a “beginner’s mind” in our approach to everything, so it should be as if we see our children for the first time each time we greet them, or hear something from a friend for the first time.

Be aware of the environment, think about the smells, feelings and sensations you are experiencing. This gives you more pleasure in life and a better balance.

It is very easy to lose balance because life has such a hectic agenda for us. Either we survive or we lose ourselves in our stressful days. Alternatively, we can try to find our own balance ourselves. To do this, we all have a tool box and mindfulness is one of the tools we need in there. By practising it, we can learn it and it is possible for us all to find it.

We also have writing classes where we use writing as a therapeutic process rather than an intellectual one – there are many ways to discover yourself and become more aware but we certainly all use our brains too much and this can affect our overall balance.

How do you determine which tools your clients need to use?

We have an optional starting point, which is a holistic examination – a wellness test. We look at the person from eight different perspectives, including physical, social, environmental, financial and emotional. This gives us a picture of you and just doing the test often gives people a better awareness of themselves. Commonly, we find people are not using their body efficiently and are not eating or sleeping efficiently, or they are struggling to maintain an emotional balance.

Once we have assessed someone, we can recommend which programmes they should attend, or devise a tailored programme. We have different experts for each element. It is a journey and something we believe is good for the individual and the wider community as well.

SOME PROGRAMMES AT SIZE Mindfulness-Based Stress Reduction Zenergy-Zen-Based Healing Yoga Meditation Reiki Career Coaching Writing for Holistic Wellbeing

What other tools can we use to find a better balance?

Meditation is a very useful tool. Doctors even prescribe it these days, as it is a proven tool to help reduce stress.

It is not something spiritual and is very easy to do using the correct breathing techniques and by being in the right moment and in the right mind. There is so much going on in our minds and we been anchors to remember to stay in the present moment – breathing is used as such an anchor.

Learning to sense your whole body by scanning it – we call this X-ray scanning – is another useful tool. It is not rocket science but it is scientifically proven, which is why corporations like these tools. The tools needed to find a balance vary from person to person. In many cases people may be overusing their minds and not using their bodies enough, for instance. Most people think you have to create emotions first and then respond with the body, but it can work in the reverse. And it is possible to learn how to use one’s body to create emotions, for example through Cigong (a 5,000-year-old practice from China), Reiki and Yoga. We have a Movement Expert at the centre who is an actor and very aware of body movements.

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“Yellow and green vegetables are important allies”

THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET PROTECTS THE LIVER! The liver has very important duties like storing vitamins, sugar and iron, and metabolizing harmful substances like ammonia in blood, drugs and other poisonous substances. This is why it is critical to treat our liver right. Otherwise the liver can get infected resulting in a condition called “hepatitis”. If the infection becomes chronic, permanent damage or cirrhosis can develop. Even worse, the risk of cancer developing in damaged liver tissue can be higher. In fact some small changes we can make in our lifestyle and regular monitoring can make it very simple to protect our liver!

Acibadem International Hospital Gastroenterology Specialist Assistant Assoc. Prof.

Dr. Nurten Türkel Küçükmetin listed the precautions we need to take for a healthy

Acibadem International Hospital Gastroenterology Specialist Assistant

liver as follows:

Assoc. Prof. Dr. Nurten Türkel Küçükmetin

1

Follow the Mediterranean diet: The Mediterranean diet prevents fattening of the liver. Therefore you should be careful to eat a Mediterranean diet and stay away from animal based fats, processed meat

products, offal, excessive carbohydrates and sugar. It is very important for liver health that you consume fresh fruits and vegetables on daily basis and stay away from trans fats. It is beneficial for you to consume artichokes more frequently when they are in season, and all yellow and green vegetables as they help remove toxic substances from the liver. Omega 3 and antioxidants reduce the fattening of the liver.

Antioxidants provide protection from harmful toxins, accelerate the process of removing toxins from the body and help the liver carry out its normal functions.

The most natural sources of antioxidants are fruits and vegetables.

2 3

Limit your alcohol consumption: Alcohol is one of the most harmful substances for the liver. More than 80 grams per day in men and 20 grams per day in women and over 10 years of

alcohol consumption increase the risk of cirrhosis.

Therefore it is important that you reduce or quit alcohol consumption all together.

Protect yourself infections:

from

these

Hepatitis B and C viruses are the most common causes of hepatitis and cirrhosis in our country. While these

viruses are contracted most Turkey commonly by blood, they can also be contracted by sexual contact and from mother to baby. Hepatitis B has a vaccination but there is no vaccination for Hepatitis C yet. In order to prevent spreading of these diseases, blood and blood products need to be monitored carefully, personal items like tooth brushes and razors should not be shared, sterilizing should be applied meticulously in manicure, pedicure, tattoo and piercing, and people who are at high risk are recommended to be vaccinated.

4

SPONSORED FEATURE Get rid of your excess weight: Alcohol is not the only cause of a fatty liver. Whether is develops on its own or due to an infection, the most common is of a fatty liver is obesity! A fatty liver is seen in one out of every 4-5 patients who get an ultrasound for any reason. Losing 10 percent of your weight

has been observed to reduce the risk of a fatty liver. To protect yourself from this condition, it is very important to quit consuming alcohol and smoking, lose weight, exercise and keep your blood sugar under control.

5

Do not use random medicine: Avoid using medicine that has not been recommended by a doctor, as well as plant based treatment products. It is very important that some medications like pain relievers, fever reducers, cortisone derivative drugs and some antibiotics are taken in the dose and

period that the doctor recommends. Excessive amounts of these medicines or using them unnecessarily or for long periods may deteriorate the liver or cause liver failure.

6

Make sure to get regular exercise: According to studies, when a proper diet and exercise are practiced together, this is more effective for reducing fattening of the liver.

However, losing weight quickly can also cause fattening of the liver.

The ideal approach is to lose 500-900 grams per week. This is why

you should exercise in a well-balanced manner over a longer period of time. For example you can do medium impact aerobic exercises 5-6 days a week, for 30-45 minutes each.

7

Drink 1-2 cups of coffee a day: A fatty liver develops when droplets of fat accumulate inside the liver cells. Over time structural and functional deterioration occurs in the liver in connection with the amount of fat that accumulates. The infection that develops in the liver in connection with fat accumulation

is called “steatosis hepatitis�. If steatosis hepatitis lasts for many years, it can cause cirrhosis. Especially in recent studies, while the mechanism is not yet completely known, it has been stated that 1-2 cups of coffee per day can reduce the risk of fat accumulation and cancer in the liver.

A TRIP TO BÜYÜKADA

FEATURE: LEYLAdestinations AMUR. PHOTOGRAPHY: KAMILA BAKIRHAN Büyükada is one of Istanbul’s most-frequented weekend in summertime. But it is more than a seaside resort; Leyla Amur took a trip to view the stunning architecture, including Trotsky’s house, and famous churches

LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

B

üyükada (“big island”) lives up to its name as the largest of nine islands in Istanbul’s small Princes archipelago. While the idea of escaping the hustle and bustle of Istanbul and its dwindling seaside property and taking refuge in a car-free zone is appealing to everyone, it might be better to schedule a visit to Büyükada for a weekday.

You can take passenger ferries from Kabataş, Beşiktaş, Kadıköy and Bostancı to four of the Princes Islands (Kınalıada, Burgazada, Heybeliada, and Büyükada) where you can marvel at the Ottoman-Victorian houses that dot the islands while drinking in a little sea air. At the Büyükada stop, the ferries will bring you to an Ottoman ferry terminal located in the middle of the island’s town centre.

The Princes Islands derived their name as they were used as a destination to exile and imprison those who were seen as a political threat, such as close relatives to the royal family or statesmen during the Byzantine Empire. This history lasted until the 20th Century, during which Leon Trotsky stayed on the island for four years after being exiled from Russia. His impressive house can be viewed during your trip around the island.

Opposite page: Colourful handicrafts for sale on Büyükada Above, clockwise from top left: An old house; the Büyükada Iskelesi; inside the San Pacifico Roman Catholic Church; bikes for hire

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With a total area of five square km (two square miles), Büyükada is divided into the Nizam and Maden districts and further divided by its cardinal directions. The second hill, located on the southern portion of the island, is called Yorgi Peak. The 500m-wide Dil Burnu (the cape) is located on the western section of the island and Nizam köyü is situated in the northern part of this cape.

Once leaving the terminal and resisting the knick-knacks being sold along the way, stop to gain your bearings on the island. Turning left once leaving the ferry will take you to the eastern part of the island, with seafood restaurants dotting the shore, cafes, a park and a private marina for ferries and yachts.

Walking straight up the hill from the terminal will bring you to the Iskele Meydanı (Dock Square) where you can find the island’s iconic clock tower. Once at the top of the hill, you will be met with two transport options – either riding bikes or

34

taking a carriage ride. To the left of the square, horse-drawn carriages are available for either a short tour (küçük tour, which lasts for about 25 minutes) or a long tour (büyük tour, which lasts for about an hour). If you opt to have a horse-less experience of the island, hop on one of the many bikes up for rental.

Whichever you choose, you can reach the Lunapark at the base of the island’s tallest hill, Yücetepe, which will lead you to the St George Church (also known as Aya Yorgi) one of the island’s biggest draws. On the way to the church, you’ll pass Naki Bey Beach and the Büyükada Water Sports Club, one of the few beaches on the island. Don’t forget to look for the house of Reşat Nuri Güntekin, who is one of Turkey’s

LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

(Jesus Hill), which is host to a Greek orphanage – Prinkipo Greek Orthodox Orphanage or Rum Yetimhanesi. The 20,000sqm wooden orphanage is the largest timber building in Europe and the second largest in the world with 206 rooms. Initially constructed in the late 1800s as a luxury hotel and casino, the building was instead used as an orphanage between 1903 and 1964 having helped 5,744 orphans.

prominent writers. You’ll then reach Lunapark at the base of the hill leading to the church, which is too steep for the horses, and you’ll have the option of walking up the steep hill or taking a donkey.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: The stunning panoramic view from the island; The neo-gothic San Pacifico Roman Catholic Church built by the Franciscans between 1865 and 1866; a view from the island This page, clockwise from top left: The island from the iskele; the house lived in by Trotsky during his exile; the iconic Splendid Palas Hotel which sits above the main harbour; traditional horses and carriages which carry visitors all over the island as cars are not allowed

As one of two sacred Christian pilgrimage sites in Turkey, many visit the church as part of a wish-making ritual by tying a thread to the bushes, burning a candle while walking up the cobbled path to unravelling balls of wool. According to local legend, during the crusades, money was buried with sacred items, only to be unearthed by Aya Yorgi. These items are now on display in the church.

Once back down at Lunapark, you can start the 20 to 30-minute walk to the island’s other summit called Isa Tepesi

SPONSORED ARTICLE

Third-wave leather Meet the founders of Custom Rebels, who take an artisanal approach to creating the essential piece in any spring wardrobe: leather jackets. Beg羹m Egeli Bursal覺gil

SPONSORED FEATURE

SPONSORED ARTICLE

Alex Cem Üster, Duygu Yegül, Deniz Özgün

Many brands Can And Do Make Leather Jackets, But İf You’re Looking for one that’s fully customized with incredible colors and bold slogans, you’ll have to check out Custom Rebels. A brand that blends style with art, Custom Rebels’s origin story is full of coincidences – and its protagonists are three close friends who come from different professional backgrounds.

It all began when Deniz

Özgün bought a motorcycle and began to search for an authentic leather jacket, similar to the Type A-2 leather flight jacket (worn

by American pilots in WWII) or the multicolored ones worn by Hell’s Angels. As he struggled to find the jacket of his dreams, his friend Duygu Yegül rolled up her sleeves to give him this unique gift. An advertiser by trade, Yegül worked with a number of different designs, colors and dyes

to get the jacket just right.

Afterward, everyone who saw Özgün’s jacket wanted a similar one for his or her own, and Custom Rebels was born.

Only two years in, Custom Rebels has managed to grow into a brand that’s done custom production for American Retro, organized runway shows in Paris and even collaborated with BMW. Yet what motivates its founders Deniz Özgün, Duygu Yegül and Alex Cem Üster to keep going is meeting people who are as excited to wear their carefully crafted jackets as they are.

The brand’s one-of-akind jackets are wholly handmade using only genuine leather. It takes approximately two weeks for Custom Rebels to design and craft a jacket.

They currently offer three models: the bomber (500 800 euro) and two bikers (800 -1200 euro). In keeping with international trends, this year’s designs are shorter with cleaner lines.

As the name suggests, Custom Rebels also does custom-made designs: all you have to do is tell

them what slogan you’d like featured on the back and leave the rest up to the designers’ creativity.

There’s no preview or approval process: instead, the Custom Rebels team tries to get to know you through your favorite colors, hobbies, music…

What else would you expect from a brand that set out with the vision of creating heirloom pieces that tell a story? customrebels.com

IWI MEMBERS GET 25% OFF! That’s 12 issues for the price of 9 - only 45 TL! Every month, your Time Out will be filled with features on citywide happenings, restaurant and café reviews, daily concert, event and exhibition listings, shopping hotspots, expat tips, travel destinations, celebrity interviews and all you want (and need) to know about what’s going on in your city.

Time Out Istanbul in English – Know More. Do More.

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C@RMA

FOR GOOD

FEATURE: NINA LISTER. PHOTOGRAPHY: HILANEH MAHMOUDI AND FAY MAGNUSSON

Sandrine Ramboux, an investment banker from Belgium, has revolutionised the way NGOs engage with and raise support from the professional communities of Turkey. Nina Lister reports

LALE INTERVIEW

W

hen Sandrine Ramboux, 45, first came to Istanbul with ING Bank – brought in to head up the office following the $2.7 billion acquisition of Oyak Bank in 2007, one of the first things she did was look around for corporate social responsibility opportunities. There were none. Now, she has successfully pioneered one of the most innovative new platforms for highly skilled professionals to undertake rewarding pro-bono work in Turkey, C@rma.

worthwhile, so I was really disappointed to find a total lack of opportunities for this sort of activity. In fact, I found that people here were very negative about such efforts and I had a real feeling of not being able to do anything.

“When I was in Belgium, I did volunteering through the bank, supporting children with learning difficulties to study maths,” she says. “I really liked the experience because the children chose themselves to come and learn so they were very motivated. I built up a rapport with them. But when I came to Turkey, there were no set-ups like this.”

Even as a banker, I have always liked building up things. I was already at the top of a bank and therefore was able to reach corporations as a foreigner, which can often be hard in Turkey. So, I was introduced to an NGO and started working on a project providing micro-financing for women. This was the first time I realised I was working pro-bono and it all kind of evolved.

Sandrine knew from her own experience of corporate working in Turkey that others felt similar disappointment, so, never one to miss out on a hole in the market, she devised her own way forward. Today, C@rma is a rapidly growing organisation which has harnessed the skills and talents of hundreds of foreign and Turkish professional workers, all of whom just want to put their own specific knowledge to work for a good cause.

Then there was an earthquake and as I am not a nurse or a doctor or an architect, all I could really do was give money. I felt completely useless.

Why is there a lack of corporate responsibility opportunities in Turkey?

Sadly, Turkey ranks 128 out of 130 countries on the World Giving Index, although of course people do give at Ramadan.

The problem is that a lot of people don’t trust NGOs, so we really need to engage them. It is trial and error to do this, though. There have been some scandals. NGOs haven’t always been terribly transparent and there is little information about them. They tend to be very grass-roots driven and don’t have the time or resources to make a proper website and a proper annual report or accounts.

This is why we are trying to engage NGOs and to promote transparency among them. Then we can put them together with corporates and professionals and create more trust between the two sectors.

The other reason is that it can be hard for corporates to engage with anything that could be perceived to be political and, therefore, potentially critical. A lot of corporate money goes to the arts and sports instead. There are short-term initiatives, but generally, I think that it is all very well to help clean a beach or read to a child, but it isn’t lasting.

Above: Sandrine addresses a brainstorming event. Right: Inside a brainstorming session. Below right: With her team at C@rma Every three months, C@rma holds a pro-bono get together where a selection of NGOs will present their activities.

Everyone and anyone is welcome to attend and, it is hoped, be inspired by one or more of these good causes enough to want to volunteer their time. Also, every three months, C@rma holds a “speed dating” day where a number of NGOs convene with high-skilled volunteers to brainstorm a particular problem or project. Volunteers for the brainstorming sessions can find these projects on the C@rma internet platform, which lists the skills required.

Thus “matchmaking” pro-bono volunteers with the NGOs. These are highly dynamic, professional sessions, which usually produce excellent results and a way forward. The participants can then volunteer to take part in the project if the NGO decides to press forward with it. Sandrine talked to Lale about how it all came about.

What got you interested in pro-bono work in Turkey?

When we moved here for work, I already knew how satisfying it could be to volunteer your time and skills for something

39

LALE INTERVIEW How does C@rma work?

Our mission is to create a dialogue between professional pro-bono volunteers and NGOs who lack these skills in two ways. First is by inspiring volunteers, which we set out to do with the quarterly evening and breakfast get-togethers. We present these as an opportunity to network as well as to get involved with good causes, so there are plenty of reasons for professional people to come along.

Secondly, we offer a point of action with our online platform, which lists our NGOs, the projects they want to work on, and the skills they need from outside professionals to push forward. People can sign up here to volunteer for the

to engage consulates here to set up a liaison process, and Small Hands Istanbul, which also helps Syrian refugees. We secured the participants beforehand – either they signed up on the website platform, or we approached people we knew with the relevant skills.

Then we do a brief presentation about C@rma and the NGOs present and ask the volunteers to introduce themselves, before splitting off into different rooms for the different sessions. Each session has a moderator who makes notes on a white board and, afterwards, writes up notes about the session and what has been decided. They also ask the volunteers present to state whether they would be happy to proceed with assisting on a project and, a few days later, an email goes out to all concerned to confirm the next steps.

Last time, we held the sessions at the offices of the law firm, Baker & McKenzie, which donated the space to us. The next one will feature eight NGOs and will be at Bilgi Üniversitesi on May 27, which has a social incubation centre, which provides space for social entrepreneurs to start up. We will do a probono get together beforehand on May 24 at which six NGOs will be presenting.

Has it all been smooth progress?

It has been a learning curve – every time we hold sessions, we learn something new. For example, there should only be up to 10 volunteers and two from the NGO present. Also, now we know to introduce the participants for each session to each other by email prior to the event, or you spend too much time doing it before the sessions can take place. Then there are the follow-up notes, so now we have a student in every session to take the notes. It takes a lot of organisation.

So far, we have been in touch with 120 NGOs. We have 50 to 60 featured on the platform, which we launched online two years ago, with a profile. To be there, they must have done one project with us.

How has your family settled in to Istanbul?

We have been here nine years now and we plan to stay – I have a company here now after all and one of my daughters is in the native Turkish class at school. They are very happy here. brainstorming session – which we call “speed dating”. If the brainstorming session is successful, the participants can say if and how they want to be involved and then we go away and devise a strategy with the NGO. The volunteers can then advise and coach them through it and provide professional assistance where necessary. Even if no solution appears from the brainstorming session, the process still raises awareness.

Sometimes we can “sell” projects to corporates where we outsource a strategized project to a team of 10 corporate volunteers. Every week, the volunteers call and establish milestones and deadlines. We are, in effect, project managers and the corporates pay for it.

Describe a typical brainstorming event

The last one involved four NGOs. For instance, DLD, an organisation which supports university-educated women from deprived communities to develop the professional skills they need to enter the workplace successfully, wanted to find out about crowd-funding. Other NGOs there included Onar, which supports foreign women in Istanbul and wanted

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What do your daughters think about what you do?

I speak a lot about NGOs to my daughters and I have given a talk to their class about this. I also presented to Grade Three students at their school. They were very sweet. One was telling me: ‘I heard some women are not paid the same as men!’ Or they were talking about refugees. Last year I did a talk for Grade Six. I started with the C@rma mission and was asked a lot of very good questions. For example, How do you earn money? How do you get people to work with you? How do you raise funds? The girls asked about failure as well and I was able to give examples.

I think my daughters are very interested in what I do. We were at Eataly in the Zorlu Centre and there was a big poster with Martina Pavone, who started up the NGO, Onar, which supports foreign women living in Istanbul, featured on it. They know her because hers is one of the NGOs that we have helped and we have got to know her well. They love to be involved in this.

For more information see www.4carma.com

ARTISTS OF KUZGUNCUK FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: VERENA RINGE

Within the artisan community of Kuzguncuk, the Harmony gallery has established itself as an important social base exhibiting the work of some of the most interesting up-and-coming Istanbul artists. Verena Ringe paid a visit Above and left: Inside and out of the gallery Opposite page: Ursula Soltermann-KatipoÄ&#x;lu with some of her works at the recent Beraber-Mitenand exhibition at Harmony.

Ursula’s work depicts skyscrapers fashioned as mountains and springing from the old buildings of the city as if they are the roots.

In many of her works, the tops of the new buildings appear to float on the clouds

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LALE ART

T

he Asian Bosphorus-side village of Kuzguncuk, known for its colourful architecture which has been featured in many films and TV commercials, is also one of Istanbul’s most vibrant artistic neighbourhoods. It boasts a disproportionate number of artists and writers, who are part of the local fabric of life. The main, straight road up the hill is both the traffic artery and the centre of activity, where news is exchanged, everybody does their shopping and locals meet.

In 2006 and 2007, the inhabitants of Kuzguncuk participated in a village-wide exhibition of local artists, works being shown not only in ateliers and workshops, but also in the local shop windows. These same people see an art gallery in their midst as a normal state of everyday life, which is almost unique in Turkey.

On exhibition from mid-May are works by Öznur Eren, who is showing her latest work influenced by post-impressionism.

Her sensitive use of colours in nature creates an atmosphere for the viewer towards its horizons. Through the figures in her compositions, Öznur aims to convey her dreams, experiences and realities. The aim is to include her subconscious in her pictures and confronts the relationship of dark and light and its formations.

The tree-lined thoroughfare with its friendly cats, dogs and ever-increasing numbers of small cafes, is where you will find the Harmony gallery, where a large number of local artists have found encouragement and support through the exposure of their work. Well-known and as-yet-unknown Turkish artists can be seen there in excellent presented vernisages, and visits to the gallery often turn into a late night stroll to the local restaurants for those who can’t tear themselves away.

This gallery adds culture and polish to this suburban gem and was lovingly and successfully run by Ülkü Berber for 15 years, who, for health reasons, passed it into other hands and is run now by the charming curator, Derya Şarbakalɪ.

The most recent exhibition at Harmony, on until May 11, is Beraber-Mitenand, which means “Together” in both Turkish and German. It showed two artists, Swiss and Turkish, husband and wife, Ursula and Yusuf. Ursula SoltermannKatipoğlu and Yusuf Katipoğlu present a union of artists, which does not have to be symbiotic. Each individual artist can grow into strong separateness through togetherness.

Ursula, a Swiss national, has lived in Kuzguncuk since 1980 and works successfully alongside her husband. In separate

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ateliers, both have developed their own distinct style; their similarity is only in the joy of life, shown in colour and its manifold expressions. Ursula’s love of mountains is evident through numerous exhibitions in Turkey and Switzerland, where the highest mountain peaks are interpreted in cubistic colour blocks of great harmony and empathy. Ursula’s painting turned in recent times from mountains to the landscapes of cities and high-rise skylines. In her work, the inevitable jump is from high mountains to high, slim buildings, planted like natural rocks. These images make modern cities a part of it in ever changing hues and atmospheres. Ursula’s “togetherness” stands for mountains meeting cities.

From Black Sea Trabzon, Yusuf is a highly respected and well-known painter who continues to live solidly connected to his origins. The atmosphere of coastal populations along the Black Sea shores is ever evident. In his work there are both the exuberant joy of life, as found throughout turkey through handcraft, dance and song, and also the deep melancholy of mankind fighting the elements in hard realities of survival.

The red ribbon through his work is the sea, its creatures and boats. “Together” for Yusuf is waves, the sea, boat and man within coastal environments.

The exhibition of works by Öznur Eren runs from the May 14 to June 12. Harmony Sanat Galerisi, Kuzguncuk Mh, Icadiye Cad, No.42A, 34674 Üsküdar, Istanbul.

Opposite page and above: Yusuf Katipoğlu with some of his works presented at Harmony’s recent Beraber-Mitenand exhibition. Yusuf’s works are full of the energy of the sea and his boats, which slice geometrically through the waves, could also be fish or birds Below: Works by Öznur Eren, on dispay at Harmony from mid-May

Istanbul, straddling two continents and sandwiched between two seas, has a thrillingly varied flora which includes many plants seen nowhere else on the planet.

Sadly, many are also critically endangered.

By Andrew Byfield

A WORLD BEYOND THE WALLS

T

here is something special about getting to know a tract of land really well: one reason, perhaps, why people fall under the spell of islands so deeply.

Within a tightly circumscribed patch, it’s possible to explore ever more intensely, and seemingly the more one looks, the more there is to discover. Such were the emotions for me during the 1990s, when I explored the woods and waysides of Istanbul province at length. Many a weekend I would head out into the fields and forests, leaving the city for a few short hours of peace. I discovered a world every bit as fascinating as the metropolis within the city walls, and would marvel unceasingly at wallowing water buffalo, green tree frogs sparkling as if dusted with gold, ancient walls severing the peninsula, age-old viaducts leaping deep valleys, and vast forests stretching out to the horizons. There were flowers, too, in remarkable abundance and diversity – some proving new to Turkey, others apparently new to science.

In good part it is through the efforts of Aznavour, a 19th-century Istanbul botanist, that we now know that over 2,000 native species occur within the province’s 5,343 square kilometres. To put that into perspective, for British readers at least, that’s a third richer than the whole of Britain in an area roughly the size of the English county of Norfolk, equivalent to just 2 per cent of Britain’s overall land surface. Furthermore, close to 30 species are largely or wholly confined to the province.

This floristic plenty owes its existence to a number of factors. For starters, the province is situated at the point where Europe and Asia collide, so, as an example, only here does the resolutely European Common Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis meet the Asian Byzantine Snowdrop G. plicatus ssp. byzantinus. This gives rise to Istanbul’s very own snowdrop hybrid, which goes by the wordy moniker G x valentinei nothosubsp subplicatus, common along forest margins. It is imbued with a good dose

2

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Cottonweed Otanthus maritimus Cottonweed clings for dear life to the beaches along the Istanbul’s northern shoreline. The Black Sea makes for brisk swimming, but a trip to the beach to look at plants is well worthwhile. Wind and wave action drive rich golden sands up to a kilometre inland. Here, isolated from Europe’s other sand dunes, a unique and distinctive flora has developed

of hybrid vigour, so the wild plants are often every bit as fine as garden raisings.

But more is at play here than merely the meeting of two continents. Arguably more important still is the fact that Istanbul lies sandwiched between two seas, the cool Black Sea and the more Mediterranean Sea of Marmara. Prevailing winds from the northeast blow cool, moisture-laden air onto the land, whereas the southern shores are more influenced by an altogether milder,

May, June 2016

SPONSORED FEATURE

LALE SPECIAL OFFER

drier climate. So in just a few kilometres the vegetation morphs from dense, humid forest to more Mediterranean scrub.

An enormously diverse geology also plays a role in shaping the flora: everything from granites and pillow lavas, soft and hard limestones and shales, to recent sands and peats is present. Such diversity makes for great plant-hunting.

This extract is from Cornucopia 54, available in bookshops from June, at TL40

Cornucopia special IWI offer Read Andrew Byfield’s article on the flora of Istanbul in the new Cornucopia, No 54.

The biannual magazine on Turkey is offering IWI members No 54 (rrp TL40)

plus the rare Turkish Garden Issue (No 13, left) (rrp TL120) for just TL80, a saving of TL80.

See cornucopia.net/iwi-offer 3

47

SURF’S UP IN ALAÇATI

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: NINA LISTER

There is a reason that Istanbullus head down to Alaçatı en masse in the summer months. Famous for its excellent windsurfing, the town is also a perfect combination of crystal blue Aegean waters, some stunning architecture and a rocking nightlife

T

he old Greek village of Alaçatı stands inland on a narrow isthmus at the top of the beautiful Çeşme Peninsular near Izmir. Aside from its glorious position on the coast of the crystal blue Aegean Sea, the town has some fascinating history and stunning architecture to enjoy as well. Famous for its world-class windsurfing and kitesurfing, its vineyards and windmills (well worth a stroll around as the sun sets before dinner), Alaçatı is one of the most authentic towns in Turkey with its stone-cobbled streets, boutique hotels and restaurants which spill out into narrow streets.

Settled by Greeks, the town takes its name from the original harbour, Alatsata (Αλάτσατα in Greek), meaning “salt” after the nearby salt lakes. The original town was named Agrilia. However, there is also a Turkish claim to the name – Alaca At means “Red Horse”. This claim is based on a story that the ruler of the town rode a red horse and was known to locals as “Alacaatlı”.

Whichever is the correct version, Alaçatı has inspired many stories and writers over the centuries, notably Mehmet Culum who used the town as inspiration for his second novel, Alaçatılı.

Since the exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey, Muslim refugees from Greece were re-settled here under the Lausanne Treaty in 1923, occupying the pretty taş (stone) houses abandoned by the departing Greeks (many of which survive today and protected by the town’s status as a historical site), and the name Alaçatı has been adopted for both town and harbour. Until the Second World War, this was the main port of Izmir. Now the bay is used for windsurfing, favoured for the steady wind here. The area is also home to the Alaçatı yacht marina and the famous Port Alaçatı development.

LALE TRAVEL The windsurfing scene has been a major draw for Alaçatı since the 1970s as the conditions are so good here with a consistent northerly wind blowing offland. Many championships are held here, including the Windsurf World Cup in August, and there are several windsurfing schools in the bay to choose from. The Alaçatı Surf Paradise Club (www.alacati.info) is a Turkish-German organisation with good courses on offer, while the Myga Surf Company (www.myga.com.tr) also hires out paddle boards. Also recommended is the Active Alaçatı Windsurf Centre (www.active-surf.com).

Opposite page: Windsurfers in the bay. Above: Around the old town of Alaçatı. Below left: One of the windmills overlooking the old town. Below right: One of the charming restaurants in the old town

After a hard day’s windsurfing or yachting, there is nothing more relaxing than a stroll around the old town of Alaçatı, taking in the iconic windmills, before sitting down to supper at one of the many excellent restaurants on the main Kemalpaşa Caddesi and streets off it, many of which specialise in Aegean cuisine.

After supper, the town stays alive into the early hours and beyond with families and children sampling ice creams in any of the many small squares and the party crowd heading off to seaside nightclubs which stay open until morning.

Several of the old taş town houses are now high-end boutique hotels much frequented by the Turkish glitterati.

Notable are the Vintage Boutique Hotel (www.vintagealacati. com), the Alaçatı Taş Hotel (www.tasotel.com) and the Tash Mahal Hotel (www.tashmahalotel.com). The Alaçatı Taş is the oldest ın Alaçatı and still the favourite, with its seven tailored rooms overlooking a walled garden. The Tash Mahal is a 150-year-old former wine house with several charmingly themed rooms. Also recommended are the Incirliev (www. incirliev.com) and Sailors Hotel Meydan (www.sailorsotel. com).

From Istanbul, there are plenty of flights to Izmir from where Alaçatı can be reached by car in under 30 minutes.

Alternatively, it is possible to drive from İstanbul via IDO car ferry from Yenikapı.

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LALE CALENDAR Every month, the IWI hosts many fun cultural and lifestyle events. Here is what’s coming up as we move from spring to summer

MAY M O N D AY

T U E S D AY

W E D N E S D AY

Neighbourhood Meetups

02

03

04

F R I D AY

T H U R S D AY

S AT U R D AY

S U N D AY

Pera Müzesi Tour

05

06

07

08

IPWIN Blogging Workshop

Asian Side Newcomers Coffee at Cafe Romantica, Fenerbahçe

09

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

27

28

29

Istanbul Discovery Tour

23

24

Pyjama Party

25

European Newcomers Coffee

26

Peruvian Ceviche Cookery Demo

30

31

JUNE

T U E S D AY

M O N D AY

W E D N E S D AY

T H U R S D AY

F R I D AY

Beauty and Make-Up Evening

01 Beauty and Make-Up Evening

06

07 IPWIN Holistic Wellbeing Workshop

02

BBQ Brunch at the Marriott

03

04

Neighbourhood Meetups

05 IWI Family Summer Party

IWI Summer Lunch

08

S U N D AY

S AT U R D AY

09

10

11

12

European Side Newcomers Coffee

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

50

LALE EVENTS IWI RUNNING GROUP

There will also be an optional post-workout coffee, food, and socialising. Workouts can start as soon as we have the minimum number for the group (at least five people). We will continue the workouts for as long as there’s demand (ideally, through November, or the date of the Istanbul Marathon).

Times may be adjusted, depending on members’ and coaches’ availability.

The programme will run on a rolling basis, with membership renewable every month. If members need to travel, they will be able to rejoin the group upon return. New members can join at any time.

Whether you’re a complete beginner or a more experienced runner, this is a unique opportunity to train with Englishspeaking coaches in a group of fellow international women along the Caddebostan coastline on the Asian side on Thursday evenings at 7pm or Sunday mornings at 8am. With this group, you can: - Start running under expert guidance - Receive individualised advice - Get fit and become a better runner - Train for a race like the Istanbul Marathon (November 2016)

Each workout will include: - Warm up - Running drills and practice - Group workout for improved fitness and injury prevention - Cool down and stretching

PERA MÜZESI TOUR

Having two coaches means the group will be able to accommodate individuals of different running and fitness levels, which is especially important during running practice.

Our coaches are Oğuz Hümmetler, Turkish national champion, sprinter and certified personal trainer; and Marina Khonina, IWI member, health-and-nutrition coach, and competitive runner.

Date

Thursdays and Sundays

Time

Thursdays 7pm and Sundays 8am

Address

Caddebostan Sahili

Cost

$120 per month

Participants

Minimum 5

Reservations

Online at the website: www.iwi-tr.org

Deadline

None

Person to contact

Marina Khonina

Contact Details

marina.khonina@gmail.com or 0534 982 8307

preserving the exterior façade, safeguarding an integral part of Istanbul’s architectural flavour.

Through Suna and Inan Kıraç Foundation’s three permanent collections – Orientalist Paintings, Anatolian Weights and Measures, and Kütahya Tiles and Ceramics – Pera Müzesi seeks not only to diffuse the aesthetic beauty of these collections but also to create dialogue with the public concerning the values and identities that they encompass.

Having organised joint projects with leading international museums, collections and foundations, Pera Müzesi has introduced Turkish audiences to countless internationally acclaimed artists.

Come along for a fascinating tour of one of Istanbul’s most iconic art galleries, the Pera Müzesi. Inaugurated in June 2005, the Pera Müzesi is a private museum founded by the Suna and Inan Kıraç Foundation with the aim of offering an outstanding range of diverse culture and art services.

Couched in the historic quarter of Tepebaşı, the impressive building was originally conceived as the Bristol Hotel, designed by architect Achille Manoussos. Restorer and architect Sinan Genim was given the daunting renovation operation in 2003; the triumph of transforming the interior into a modern and fully equipped museum and gallery is only matched by the architect’s mastery in simultaneously

Date

Thursday, May 5

Time

11am

Address

Pera Müzesi, Pera, Tepebaşı

Cost

TL45 for guided tour

Participants

Any number

Reservations

Online at the website: www.iwi-tr.org

Deadline

One day before

Person to contact

Fiona Slay

Contact Details

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS ISTANBUL DISCOVERY lighthouses on both sides of the Black Sea entrance to the Bosphorus in order to ensure safe navigation for the French and British war ships. The French constructed Rumeli Feneri on the European side of the strait and improved the existing lighthouse of Anadolu Feneri.

Both lighthouses were fully operational on May 15, 1856.

Anadolu Feneri was operated by the French until 1933 when the 100-years Concession was cancelled and the Turkish authorities took over.

The IWI’s monthly Culture and Coffee tour, led by our Asiaside coordinator Gabriele Sailer, takes to the Bosphorus in May with a fabulous trip planned up to the border of the Black Sea. At the very top end of the Bosphorus, as it nears channel into the Black Sea, sit two lighthouses opposite each other on either continental side of Istanbul’s iconic strait. On the European side is Rumeli Feneri; while Anadolu Feneri stands on the Asian side. Both lighthouses are sites of great historical importance and interest. During the Crimean War between 1853 and 1856, it became necessary to have

These days, both areas are dotted with small fish restaurants where you can enjoy fresh fish direct from the fishing boats during the season. Our tour will take you by boat to both sites and will feature lunch in one of these eateries. Please email Gabriele, as per contact details below, if you wish to take part in this fascinating tour.

Date

Tuesday, May 24

Time

10.30am onwards

Address

Iskele closest to you on route

Cost

Transport 25TL plus lunch

Deadline

May 20

Reservations

Online at the website: www.iwi-tr.org

Contact Details

newcomersasia@iwi-tr.org

PYJAMA PARTY! We will be getting comfy in our pyjamas and slippers, doing our nails, enjoying smoothies, chocolate and strawberry popcorn along with delicious selections of mixed and caramelised nuts prepared especially for us by the chefs at the Marriott.

This is one for the ladies only, so come along and kick back with some great IWI friends, chat, make merry and enjoy the evening without any pressure to look your glamorous best.

Going back to your childhood for a few hours might be fun.

Just come and enjoy being forever young!

Remember those carefree days of teenage pyjama parties?

With endless chatting, doing each other’s makeup and hair, and feasting on ice cream and smoothies? If you are still young at heart, come along for some escapism at our funpacked luxury pyjama party in the majestic Presidential Suite on the 33rd floor of the Marriott Hotel, Şişli.

With its jaw-dropping Bosphorus and Istanbul skyline panoramic view, the Presidential Suite offers a mixture of classical luxury and cosy comfort. Our evening will include a movie night, fun games and treats for all.

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Date

Wednesday, May 25

Time

6.30pm to 11.00pm

Address

Presidential Suite, 33rd Floor, Marriott Hotel Şişli

Cost

Classic members 60TL; Basic members 70TL; Guests 75TL

Participants

Minimum 10, maximum 25

Reservations

Online at the website: www.iwi-tr.org

Deadline

Monday, May 23

Person to contact

Ayşe Yücel

Contact Details

programs@iwi-tr.org

LALE EVENTS CEVICHE COOKERY WORKSHOP Since last year, Chef Bruno has been offering up his version of Ceviche from his own kitchen at the Hyatt Regency in Istanbul. Chef Bruno says: “Our food culture brings everyone to the table – friends, neighbours or people who are passing by and I want to share the happiness of life with you.”

The menu for our masterclass will include the following.

Participants will also be offered water and soft drinks free of charge, while a glass of wine will be extra at 20TL.

IWI members and their guests are invited to a special Peruvian Ceviche cookery demonstration and workshop with the resident chef at the Hyatt Regency hotel in Ataköy, Chef Bruno Santa Cruz, from Lima.

Chef Bruno began his culinary career at the age of just 16 at the Culinary School of Lima. After several exciting posts along the way in Lima, in such renowned establishments as Mi Propiedad Privada, Chef Bruno moved to Cuzco, the tourism capital of Peru set high in the Andes to apprentice under the famous Chef Carlos Mayta for six years after which he studied the traditional Ceviche cuisine in the north of the country. There he learned that Ceviche had a lot of influence from Spain, Africa, Italy, China and Japan as immigrants from these countries had incorporated their own traditional dishes with ingredients available locally.

Three Ceviche dishes Sea Bream Tiradito, Aji Verde with walnuts Shrimp and Avocado Ceviche Sea Bass with Tiger’s Milk Two main courses Aji de Gallina, Chicken with Spicy Walnut Cream Grilled Dry-Aged Rib Eye Steak with Chimichurri Dessert Spiced Caramel Pudding Date

Tuesday, May 31

Time

10.00am to 2.00pm

Address

Hyatt Regency Hotel, Ataköy

Cost

Classic members 140TL; Basic members 150TL; Guests 165TL

Participants

Minimum 10, maximum 12

Reservations

Online at the website: www.iwi-tr.org

Deadline

Saturday, May 21

Person to contact

Ayşe Yücel

Contact Details

programs@iwi-tr.org

LALE EVENTS BEAUTY AND MAKE-UP EVENING RUJ Make Up Studio is located in the historical Arnavutköy village on the Bosphorus shore, famous for its colourful wooden Ottoman mansions and fantastic seafood restaurants. The studio is right in front of the famous Orthodox church, surrounded by small local shops, cafes and restaurants.

Whether you are attending an important business meeting, or having a night out, you always want to look your absolute best. However, few of us know how to apply make-up correctly and in a way that is most flattering and makes the most of our features.

So, if you could do with some help, join us for a fun-filled evening of makeup instruction with IWI ladies at RUJ Make Up Studio. This is an amazing opportunity to receive advice and instruction from the internationally acclaimed make-up artist, Seher Sander, who founded this professional make-up studio in 2007.

This introduction course will teach you the basic skills of applying your own makeup, with hints and tips for making the most of your best features. You will learn some basic techniques for applying make-up in a way that ideally suits your face shape and skin tone. This course is hands-on, and will provide you with lots of ideas as well as giving you the confidence to try new make-up techniques. Afterwards, we suggest you go to one of the local fish restaurants for supper.

Date

Thursday, June 2 and Tuesday, June 7

Time

6.00pm to 8.30pm

Address

RUJ Make Up Studio, Arnavutköy

Cost

Classic Members 125TL; Basic Members 140 TL

Participants

Minimum 4; maximum 6

Reservations

Online at the website: www.iwi-tr.org

Deadline

One week before

BBQ BRUNCH AT THE MARRIOTT You will get the chance to try a bit of live cooking on the barbeque station where you will be able to select your meat, fish or chicken with the chef on hand to show you how to cook it in the best way.

The practice demonstration will be followed up by a live cooking buffet, where there will be a wide selection of salads, sauces, bread and condiments to choose alongside steak, other meat and fish done a la minute. Lots of delicious desserts to choose from will also feature in the brunch.

Soft drinks are also included the price but if anyone wants alcohol or beer, these will be available at the bar. Don’t miss the chance to join this amazing event, which for once will take place on a weekend.

As Jean-Paul Bourgeois once commented: “Barbeque will never be off the menu.” And as spring rolls into summer, what better time to learn about brunch on the grill from the professionals?

Join us for a special Sunday BBQ brunch cook-and-learn experience at the Marriott’s Dish Room Grill Hotel this June.

Western and southern European barbeque classics will be featured on the terrace for you to learn and enjoy.

Executive Sous Chef Yavuz and Junior Sous Chef Ismail will give you a brief talk about the types of meat and fish you can cook on the grill, and the best ways to barbeque them.

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Date

Sunday, June 5

Time

10.30am to 2.30pm

Address

The Dish Room Restaurant and Terrace Bar, Marriott Hotel Şişli, Abide-İHürriyet Cad No: 142, Şişli

Cost

Classic members 110TL; Basic members 120TL; Guests 130TL

Participants

Minimum 25, maximum 150

Reservations

Online at the website: www.iwi-tr.org

Deadline

Friday, June 3

Person to contact

Ayşe Yücel

Contact Details

programs@iwi-tr.org

LALE EVENTS IWI SUMMER LUNCH

-or- Artichoke in Olive Oil - Wild Mushroom Risotto with Parmesan and Sage - Steamed Sea Bass with Truffle Oil -or- Sunset Beef Fillet with Sautéed Vegetables - Pumpkin Cheese Cake Vegetarian menu: - Fresh Artichoke in Olive Oil - Quinoa salad with Coriander, Chives and Cumin Lime Sauce - Wild Mushroom Risotto with Sage and Parmesan - Pumpkin Cheese Cake

We would like to welcome all our members to join us to celebrate the closing of this IWI season with a wonderful summer lunch at one of the most popular and elegant restaurants in Istanbul. Sunset Grill & Bar is known for its exceptional food, ambiance and, of course, its spectacular view.

The owner, Baris Bey, has very generously agreed to donate some of our fee for this event to IWI charities. Attendees will also receive a copy of the glossy English-language magazine, Sunsetter, produced by the restaurant. Non-attendees are invited to provide their addresses to info@sunsetgrillbar if they would like to receive their own copy of this magazine, which highlights the Istanbul food scene.

The Summer Lunch Menu, specially prepared for IWI members will comprise: - Salmon Carpaccio with Avocado Tartare and Crispy Tortilla

One glass of wine or a soft drink, and water are included.

Please make your menu selection when you make your reservation online at www.iwi-tr.org. Valet parking will be available at the venue for a fee of 20TL Date

Wednesday, June 8

Time

12.00pm to 2.30pm

Address

Sunset Grill & Bar, Ulus

Cost

Classic Members 150TL; Basic Members 160TL; Guests 170TL. 10TL from each registration will be donated by the restaurant to IWI charities

Participants

Minimum 30, maximum 70

Reservations

Online at the website: www.iwi-tr.org

Deadline

Sunday, June 4

Person to contact

Ayşe Yücel

Contact Details

programs@iwi-tr.org

IWI BOARD

JOIN THE IWI BOARD & TEAMS

ALL ROLES ARE VOLUNTARY

Have you got vital skills you could be sharing with us? If so, we want to hear from you. We have the following positions available on the board or supporting the board. All enquiries to chairwoman@iwi-tr.org

DEPUTY ADVERTISING COORDINATOR

IWI SPONSORSHIP COORDINATOR

IWI MUMS ‘N KIDS COORDINATOR

IWI needs to build up its visibility among advertisers and sponsors, particularly in regards to Lale magaziıne.

The Sponsorship Coordinator is respnsible for building up new and maintaining existing relationships with sponsors of the IWI for the whole of each season. This includes informing them about our planned activities during the year, planning and offering and negotiating interesting sponsorship packages and guiding our sponsors through the events and the processes of receiving their benefits from the packages. Related experience would be useful but is not a must.

IWI’s Mums ‘n Kids groups are looking for a new coordinator who is interested in guiding and supporting the group leaders as well as organising a couple of parents and kids’ events or activities during the season, working together with long-standing partners who can offer facilities and set-up of events.

The position involves working closely with the IWI’s Advertising Coordinator to seek advertisers and sponsors for Lale magazine.

Sales experience is not necessary; but good communication skills and ability to work with clients on a face-to-face basis would be a plus.

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You will operate as a member of the IWI Programmes Team and can expect to need to devote around fıve to eight hours of your time per month.

IWI NEWCOMERS

ARE YOU A NEWCOMER?

IWI holds get-togethers over coffee to welcome newcomers every month on both the Asian and European sides of the city ASIAN SIDE COFFEE

EUROPEAN SIDE COFFEE

We hold coffee meetıngs every month for newcomers. The final meetup of the season will take place in May at 11am at Cafe Romantica, Fenerbahçe. No need to reserve just come along. For info, contact Gabriele Sailer: 0546 234 2835.

We hold coffee mornings every month at The House Cafe, Istinye Park. Please RSVP for the June meetup to Ayşe Yücel: 0532 356 3843. Directions to our coffee mornings can be found at www.iwi-tr.org.

AREA

COORDINATOR

CONTACT

Area A/C/F

Etiler, Akatlar, Ulus, Beşiktaş, Levent

Lale Bryce

lalebark@yahoo.com

Area B/J

Tarabya, Sarıyer, Büyükdere, Zekeriyaköy, Kilyos, Uskumruköy

Szilvia Nagy

szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area D

Arnavutköy, Bebek, Rumeli Hisarı, Baltalimanı

Position Available

Area E

Ortaköy, Levazım, Balmumcu

Wendy Serter

wserter@gmail.com

Area G/L

Nişantaşı, Osmanbey, Şişli/Fulya, Gayrettepe, Esentepe, Tepebaşı, Teşvikiye, Maçka, Beyoğlu, Taksim/Tünel, Sultanahmet, Harbiye​, Fatih, Gümüşsuyu/Eyüp, Cihangir/ Topağacı, Gaziosmanpaşa/Kabataş

Anna Ilhan

m.anna.ilhan@gmail.com

Area H/I

Yeniköy, İstinye​, Maslak, Reşitpaşa, Emirgan

Szilvia Nagy

szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area K

​Kemer, Göktürk

Tammy Ni

tni3978@gmail.com

Area M

Maltepe, Kadıköy/Üsküdar, Moda, Ataşehir, Kartal, Ömerli, Kücükyalı, Salacak, Tuzla

To be confirmed

Area O

​ mraniye,​​Çekmeköy, Beykoz, Çengelköy, Ü Anadolu Hisarı, Beylerbeyi, Kanlıca​, Kandilli, Polonezköy, Kavacık

To be confirmed

​

Area P

​ üyükçekmece​, Küçükçekmece, Hadımköy, B Bakırköy, Ataköy, Yeşilköy, Yeşilyurt, Bahçeköy/ Bahçelievler, Güneşli, Yenibosna, Beylikdüzü, Halkalı, Bahçeşehir, Bağcılar, Esenyurt, Küçükköy

Karen Yarnold

karenyarnold2@gmail.com

Area Y

Caddebostan, Fenerbahçe, Erenköy, Kalamış, Suadiye, Valideçeşme, Göztepe​, Bakkalköy, Çiftehavuzlar, Şaşkınbakkal, Küçükbakkalköy, Bostancı

Gabriele Sailer

gsailer@paradisefruit.eu

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MUMS ’N KIDS

MEETINGS AND PLAYGROUPS IWI has weekly playgroups organised according to children’s ages. These are usually hosted by our members at their homes, meet-ups at parks or walks along the Bosphorus coast IWI GROUPS

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND PROVIDERS

These playgroups are free of charge for IWI members. This is an opportunity to meet other parents of infants or toddlers, as well as share the joys and trials of motherhood while creating a support network.

Bosphorus International Pre-School, Emirgan

Please contact the Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator at mumsnkids@ iwi-tr.org if you have any questions or suggestions.

To join a playgroup, please go to IWI’s website and visit the Mums ‘n Kids page under the Members’ Section for the coordinators’ email addresses.

The coordinators will add you to the group’s mailing list to keep you updated about future events.

Pregnant and infants (0-12 months) Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 11am-1pm Coordinator: Stephanie Ketterer Walkers – Younger Toddlers (1-2 years) Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 10am-12pm Coordinator: Joanna Hochhold: joannahochhold@gmail.com Toddlers (2+) Usual meeting day/time: Tuesday, 10am-12pm Coordinator: VOLUNTEER NEEDED Asian Side Playgroup (for all ages) Usual meeting day/time: Mondays Coordinator: Lilian Hasenpusch

Teacher-organised activity, song and circle time, garden play (weather-permitting).

Coffee, tea, milk and cookies provided.

When: Tuesdays Time: 10am-11.30am Cost: FREE Age group: 0-3 years Please contact Ms Collette Laffan-Persembe at preschool@ bipschool.net or telephone at 0212 277 8444. *Note: please call on Mondays to reserve. There are only 10 openings every week. Please only ONE known adult per child. www.bipschool.net.

British International School, Zekeriyaköy and Etiler

Indoor and outdoor play (weather-permitting), followed by snack and music time. A known adult must stay and supervise the child.

Zekeriyaköy (Tuesdays and Fridays) / Etiler (Wednesdays and Fridays) Time: 9am-11am (both campuses) Cost: 10TL per session Age: 0-2.5 years of age Please contact Mrs Amanda Ilhan, Preschool and Primary Deputy Director at amandailhan@bis.k12.tr or telephone at 0212 202 7027 ext 116 www.bis.k12.tr.

Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Yeniköy, Istanbul Baby Ballet Playgroup for Boys and Girls

When: Thursdays Time: 9:30am-11:30am Cost: 30TL per session, (no block-booking required) Age: 0-3 years Where: Ballet Studio, Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Güzelce Ali Paşa Cad. No. 50, Yeniköy, İstanbul Bring: Soft slippers for little feet Please contact Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director at director@ edensgardenpreschool.com or telephone 0212 262 4302 www.edensgardenpreschool.com.

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Fotini Café - Arnavutkoy, Besiktas

Hotpot Café - Şişli, Istanbul

IWI members enjoy a waiver on the 8TL entrance fee to the playroom. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Please contact Lena at fotinicafe@gmail.com or telephone 0533 093 9992.

There is a 10% discount for IWI members. Please present your IWI membership card to claim.

A café with a playroom dedicated to babies and toddlers up to three years old, Fotini Café is located along the Bosphorus coast and offers a comfortable area for you and your child to unwind and have fun at the same time.

Francalaci Cd. No.26, Arnavutkoy, 34345 Istanbul, Turkey www.fotinicafe.com

Gymboree Play and Music

15% discount for IWI members on Play and Learn classes in the Ortaköy branch. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount.

Gymboree Play and Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0-5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in 30 countries, making Gymboree the global leader in early childhood development programmes.

Designed by experts, the age-appropriate activities help develop the cognitive, physical and social skills of children as they play. The programmes are also recognised for their unique approach to parent involvement, which encourages participation in and understanding of each child’s development.

Cost: 1,020TL for 12 classes (after IWI discount applied) Gymboree members can also enjoy complimentary free-play times during the week. For non-Gymboree members, IWI members these cost 30TL per hour.

School Skills programme (drop-off) for the 2-3 year olds or 3-4 year olds. 10% discount on full-year School Skills programme for IWI members.

Music and Art classes are also available. Limited offer for IWI members: 12 classes for the price of eight. Birthday parties for 1-7 year olds (20% discount for weekday bookings) Please contact Esra Taşar at esratasar@gymboreeturkey.com or telephone 212 275 8787. www.gymboreeturkey.com

Woodsview Internatıonal Nursery and Preschool, Tarabya, Istanbul Mother and Baby Music and Movement. Parents and guardians can come along for fun singing and dancing with their little ones.

When: Mondays and Tuesdays Time: 4.00pm to 5.00pm Cost: 30TL per class or 50TL for two classes per week Age: 6-23 months Where: Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Sumer Korusu, Altuncu Sk, No 5, Tarabya, Istanbul Please contact Maresa Shahnooshi, Teacher and Preschool Coordinator at maresa@woodsviewpreschool.com or by telephone on 0212 299 3906. www.woodsviewpreschool.com The Mums ’n Kids Team is a volunteer group that organises activities for you and your children to enjoy. Please take responsibility for your own child’s safety. IWI is not liable for any injury or loss incurred

Merkez Mah. Perihan Sk. Erbil Apt. No 71-73B, Şişli – Istanbul Located centrally in Şişli, with just a short walk from the metro station, Hotpot café offers playgroups (baby/toddler), yoga (prenatal, yoga, adults), dance and drama classes and other fun activities for both kids and mums.

Please contact Melissa at info@hotpot.web.tr or telephone 0212 343 5353. www.hotpot.web.tr

Kindermusik at Play to Learn Pre-School

On the European side in Akatlar, Nişantaşı and Koç University Rumelifeneri Campus and on the Asian side in Ataşehir, offering different music classes.

My Time Programme: 18-30 months ABC, Music and Me Programme: 2-4 years of age Please contact Ms Ozlem Hun at info@playtolearn.com.tr or telephone at 0212 352 3031 or 0532 237 2272. www.playtolearn.com.tr

Full Circle Healing Doula List

There are doulas on both the European and Asian side.

Doulas may be willing to travel to your location. For more detailed information about each doula, and on how a doula can support you, visit www.fullcirclehealing.org.

Do’um

Specialising in pregnancy and childbirth, providing education and counselling services to expecting parents and bringing together experts who believe in a natural approach. www.do-um.com

LOLA (Lots of Lovely Art)

After-school workshops, toddler art, kinder art, weekend workshops, holiday camps, themed birthday parties. www.lotsoflovelyart.com

Our House

Our House is located in Cihangir as a center for children and families. The aim of the organization is to generate curiosity, creativity ad awareness for children at all stages of development. www.ourhouse.club

KidsAloud British Culture International Preschool

Teacher-organised activity Emirgan, Istanbul Song and Circle Time, Day’s Activities (Art/Dance), Garden or Ballet-GYM Studio Play An adult to stay, supervise child. Tea, coffee provided, snack and milk for kids.

When: 10:30am - 12:00pm on Wednesdays Cost: FREE for IWI members Age group: 0-4 years Bring: Soft slippers Where: KidsAloud British Culture Preschool Emirgan Mah. Şirin Sok. No:32, Emirgan İstanbul Please contact Mrs Sevgi Dogan or Caroll İbrahimov Tan telephone 0532 361 4427 - 212 229 37 76 or sariyer@ingilizceanaokulu.com *Note: please call on Fridays or Mondays to reserve (within the quota) www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer

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GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS Alcoholics Anonymous/Al-Anon

Open AA (Alcoholics Anonymous) meetings in English are held in the Union Han building on Istiklal Caddesi, Tünel, next to the Swedish Consulate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 6.45pm (contact 0533 626 5724 ). There is an Alanon meeting at 6.30pm on Thursdays in the same location. On Sundays, there is an open AA meeting at 4,15pm in Harbiye (contact 0539 606 0123). On the Asian side in Kadikoy, there are meetings at 6pm on Thursdays and at 5.30pm on Saturdays (contact 0537 433 8368). A full listing of all English-speaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website: www.aa-europe.net

Asian Ladies of Istanbul

The Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a non-profit social group established over 20 years ago for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul to come together.

A members-only Facebook page provıdes news of the monthly lunches, news, events, photographs and useful information. Please contact Kim Cakirkaya at kim.cakirkaya@gmail.com or 0533 463 6930 for further information.

ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey)

The Friends of ARIT Istanbul, with branches in North America and Ankara, was established to support the ARIT in Turkey. The Istanbul Friends run a year-round programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. For further information call 0212 257 8111.

AWl (American Women of Istanbul)

AWI is a social network open to Americans, Canadians and spouses of US or Canadian citizens in Istanbul. AWI offers social programmes from special-interest groups to charities. If you’re a newcomer to Istanbul please contact our newcomers committee. Email Debbie Abdo or Sia Israfil at awiistanbul@gmail.com.

Belgian Friends of Istanbul

The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gathers every month for drinks, brunch, dinner, a walk or a cultural activity. We also offer activities such as the annual St Nicholas party for children or New Year’s dinner. Our Facebook page allows members to exchange information about job opportunities, housing, babysitting, Belgian cultural events in Istanbul, where to find Belgian products, etc.

Email bfistanbul@gmail.com.

Book Club

There are two IWI book clubs. Book Club 1 is currently over-subscribed, but Book Club 2 is open to new members. Contact: Mary Akgüner (Book Club 2) mary.akguner@gmail.com

Boy Scouts/Cub Scouts

The Boy Scouts and Cub Scouts of America is a youth programme for character development and values-based leadership training. All boys in grades one to five (ages six to 10) holding a foreign passport are welcome to join Cubs.

Older boys (ages 11-18) are welcome to join Boy Scouts. Activities include hiking and camping.

Email Vicki Gunay graygunay@gmail.com or 0532 314 11 34.

Bridge Group

Our bridge group meets on Fridays at 11am - all levels welcome. Playing bridge in our group is a way to spend a pleasant Friday. Please contact Sandra on 212 257 9781 or 0532 483 5319.

C@rma

C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have opportunities to volunteer with your specific skills on a pro-bono basis through our platform,

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www.4carma.com, and we also organise events every two moths at which NGOs can present their activites or brainstorm around their problem with professional volunteers. Our website and activities are in Turkish and English. For more information, contact info@4carma.com.

CHICAS Spanish Speaking Women of Istanbul

A group open to all ladies who speak our language, or would like to practise it. We host lots of fun, hilarious Latin parties and cultural events.

We have our own blog: http://chicasestambul. blogspot.com/ and we’re on Facebook under “Chicas Estambul”. Email chicasestambul@yahoo. com.mx or phone Ninoska Gutierrez Sierra 0533 651 3581, Norma Maranges 0532 314 29 34 or Lorena Martinez 0533 388 6309.

CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana)

The Italian Association organises activities, such as cooking classes, dinners, parties, Italian and Turkish conversation classes, piano lessons, zumba, tamurriata, Italian cinema, medieval fencing, painting on porcelain, capoiera, singing and activities for children. The wonderful liberty hall can also be hired for private parties and conferences. Email Paola Maresia Maresia@superonline.com or Elsa Zambonini elsazambonini@yahoo.com, tel 0212 244 17 59 or visit our website info@circoloroma.com.

Die Bruecke

Die Bruecke, founded ın 1989, is a platform for the German-speaking community. It is open to everyone who speaks German. Die Bruecke issues a monthly newsletter. Different gatherings, charities, information concerning everyday life, bi-national education, help with bureaucracy and immigration laws in Turkey are covered. Website www.bruecke-istanbul.org, email info@brueckeistanbul.org.

DNSI - The Dutch School of Istanbul

We provide Dutch language and cultural lessons to students aged between four and 16. Our mainstream programme is for primary and secondary students with at least one parent of Dutch nationality. Our afternoon programme is for students aged four to 13 who are learning Dutch as a foreign language. We also offer a two-week Dutch summer school. Please check our website www.dnsi.org or email directeur@dnsi.org.

Fransız Fakirhanesi – Little Sisters of the Poor Email Mother Mary psdptr@gmail.com or phone 0212 296 4608.

FOCI (Friends of Contemporary Istanbul) Working with the international community to promote the growth and development of contemporary art, the Friends of Contemporary Istanbul aim to contribute to the cultural life of Istanbul. Email jasmine.taranto@gmail.com or phone 0532 687 7899.

Friends of India Association (FOIA)

The Friends of India Association (FOIA) aims to connect Indians in Istanbul through social events.

Our aim is to keep the spirit of India and Indian culture alive by organising festivals and activities.

If you would like to know more, email any of the following: Jugnu Saglik: jugnusaglik@yahoo.com, Ambili: ramachandran.ambili@gmail.com or Diya: khera.diya@gmail.com. We are also on Facebook as Istanbul Indian community (FOIA).

Girl Scouts

The Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls everywhere build character and gain skills for success. İn a nurturing environment, and in with committed volunteers, girls develop strong values, leadership skills, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls

aged fıve and up are welcome. Email Kat Bekham usagsoistanbul@gmail.com or phone 054 2300 24 92.

IPWIN

IPWIN, the International Professional Women of Istanbul Network, welcomes all women who are working, seeking employment, or unable to work in Turkey for legal reasons. Our members meet monthly at, informal get-togethers focusing on a specific topic. We also schedule special events through the year featuring business-related topics.

Contact: ipwin@iwi-tr.org

InterNations

InterNations is an organisation where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. We organise events and provide opportunities for our members to meet and network twice a month. For further information please see our website http://www. internations.org.

International Women’s Bible Study

This group meets Tuesdays from 10am until 12.30pm. Contact Vicki Günay on 0532 314 1134.

Istanbul Accueil

Welcomes French speaking newcomers in Istanbul. We publish a weekly newsletter listing many events and activities. All French-speaking people are welcome! Email istaccueil@gmail.com or visit our website www.istanbulaccueil.org.

Istanbul@Night

Istanbul@night offers a regular opportunity for IWI members, their spouses and friends, to get together and enjoy a few drinks in a fun, new and interesting spot. Everyone is welcome for a relaxed and sociable evening to enjoy some of the best Istanbul has to offer! Istanbul@night takes place on the last Thursday of every month.

Look out for more details in the newsletter and on the IWI website. There is no cost for attending, just come and along and pay for what you order.

Contact: istanbulatnight@iwi-tr.org

IWI Tennis Group

If you enjoy playing tennis please join our group.

The IWI Tennis Group takes place at Torch Tennis in Tarabya. We welcome all players from beginners to advanced. Please contact Kenan Dundar on 0535 390 4983 or email kenan.dundar@ torchsportsclub.com.

Luso Brasileiro

Portuguese speaking group. Contact Isabel Ponte Gulpan 0212 669 4943 or 0532 274 1653.

NVI – Dutch speaking people of Istanbul The Dutch Club Istanbul aıms to keep typical Dutch festivities alive, for people who have a connection to Holland, who like to meet up with Dutch-speaking people. For further information check our website (www.nv-istanbul.org) or contact Lisette Ruygrok at secretariaat@nvistanbul.org.

Istanbul International Rugby Center

Founded in 2007, this is the only Rugby Club in Istanbul with coaching for children and teenagers.

Turkish, English, French and Spanish all spoken.

The club has coached over 400 international children aged fıve to 16. Rugby training is every Saturday 12.30 - 2pm at Dilikitaş Sport Club in Beşiktaş. Contact Club President Gülseren Gomez or Technical Director Mr Luis Gomez on 0538 642 4513 or see our website: www. istanbulrugbycenter.com

Istanbul Ottomans Rugby Football Club We practise every Saturday afternoon between 4pm and 6pm, except on days when there are

GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS official fixtures, at the Dikilitaş Spor Kulübü in Besiktas (directions available at www. ottomansrugby.com). Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome.

Mahjong Club

We are a small group of ladies, meeting once a week to piay Mahjong, a Chinese ‘brick’ game.

Mahjong is very popular ın China and across Asia.

The game was traditionally played in clubs, on the street and in homes. We meet on Thursdays at 10.30am and usually continue until around 3.30pm. We meet at each other’s homes, where we are served a light lunch, nothing complicated.

You don’t have to know the game in advance.

It ıs not a complicated game, but it can take a little while to get familiar with. Join us - we will guide and support you. Please contact Br Gerd Andreasson for more information. Email: gerd. andreasson@gmail.com. Tel: +90 531 327 1108.

PAWI

The Professional American Women of Istanbul is a network of American/Canadian women and spouses of Americans/Canadians living in Istanbul. PAWI strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Each monthly PAWI meeting features a guest speaker, and locations alternate between the European and Asian sides. Contact info@ pawiistanbul.com or visit www.pawistanbul.com.

Patchwork Group

Contact Gaye Hiçdonmez at gayehicdonmez@ gmail.com or 0532 700 0693.

Photography Club

The photo club is a group of international members whose skill levels vary from very basic to semi-professional – but who all share the desire to capture the world in a photograph and to explore Istanbul while doing so. The group discussion includes all current event information, bi-weekly photo challenges, tips and tricks, and general photography topics. Contact: Fay Magnusson at photoclubofistanbul@gmail.com.

Speech Bubbles

Speech Bubbles Theatre is a drama group established in 1988 aiming to perform high-quality English language musical theatre and donating proceeds to charities supporting children and education. Speech Bubbles is composed of amateur and professional dancers, singers and musicians from the international community. We also run a part-time school of performing arts for young people over 10 years of age and adults for three hours on Saturday mornings. Email tom@ speechbubbles.org or www.speechbubbles.org.

South Africans in Istanbul

Please contact esbie@hotmail.com if you are interested in forming an informal group of expatriate South Africans.

SWEA (Swedish Women Educational Association)

SWEA is a world-wide network for Swedishspeaking women with a chapter in Istanbul. We organise events and activities and welcome everyone who speaks Swedish. If you would like to know more, please contact istanbul@swea.org.

Support Group for Parents of Children with Special Needs

Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs and additional resources for your child? Please contact Carol Crous for more information on 0533 730 7148 or 0212 223 9700.

Tennis Club

If you enjoy playing tennis please join our group!

Teams are based on skill level and we welcome all players from beginners to intermediate and advanced. Tennis Group takes place at Torch Tennis in Tarabya. Contact: Kenan Dündar kenandundar911@hotmail.com 0535 390 4983

Toastmasters International – Istanbul Chapter

The English speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club is the first Istanbul branch of Toastmasters International, an organisation that helps its members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment.

ITM meets on the first and third Wednesday of each month from 7.30pm to 9.30pm at the Gönen Hotel in Taksim. Guests are welcome to attend two meetings free of charge. Email vp-membership@istanbultoastmasters.org or president@istanbultoastmasters.org.

Union Church of Istanbul

We are an international, inter-denominational church that offers services in English. Please contact Elaine Van Rensburg 0212 244 5763.

IWI DIRECTORY / CLASSIFIEDS FEELING ALONE WITH YOUR PROBLEMS?

You're not. At Face to Face Therapia we offer professional, thoughtful, compassionate therapy to alleviate all kinds of mental distress.

Psychotherapy and psychoanalysis – in person or online – for adults, children, couples and families in Levent, Istanbul. To book an appointment, or to find out how we can help, please contact us: ‪(+90) 212 325 75 35‬ ‬ info@facetofaceterapi.com www.facetofaceterapi.com - www.couplescounsellingistanbul.com

TURKISH LESSONS

PRIVATE AND CONVERSATIONAL For ladies and men, group or one to one lessons, at your home or workplace, from an experienced native teacher fluent in English and French. Adjustable to your needs and time schedule.

Please call 0530 310 21 32 or email rbensan@superonline.com for full information.

HEREKE CARPETS

HEREKE carpets for Sale second hand! Each of the carpets were valued by a specialist and the prices are very reasonable!

1. carpet 188 x 131 cm Kırciceğe wool and cotton 6 x 6 = 36 double knot per square cm. About 30 years old TL 1,800 (evaluated price TL 2,500) 2. carpet 182 x 120 cm Polonez blue wool and cotton 6 x 6 = 36 double knots per sqare cm. About 40 years old TL 3,000 (evaluated price TL 4,000) 3. carpet 128 x 85 cm SİLK 100 double knots per square cm about 50 years old TL 8,500 (evalutated price TL 10,000) For more information and photos contact petrafel@gmail.com

Building Bridges between Countries & Cultures

MEF INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Ulus Mah. Öztopuz Cad. Leylak Sok. 34340 Ulus - Beşiktaş / Istanbul Phone: +90 (212) 362 26 33 • Fax: +90 (0212) 287 38 70 E-mail: contact@mefis.k12.tr · www.mefis.k12.tr

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TURKISH FOR EXPATS, CONVERSATION, ALL LEVELS

English for daily conversation, school assistance, TOEFL, all levels at your home (or mine in Etiler) Shopping words and all from Linguist with diploma in language teaching. Sworn translator. Bosphorus University. 15+ years of experience. 0533 213 6957 April J. Karacehennem (long time member) aprilolson128@yahoo.com

PROFESSIONAL MASSAGE

I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho rebalancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.

IWI PARTNER OFFERS

In order to take advantage of these offers, you must show your IWI membership card

PERSONAL LIFE COACHING EXPERT SKINCARE SPECIALISTS

Is your skin in need of rehydration or have you noticed pigmentation changes following the summer sun? Combining our knowledge and skill with famous brands, oxygen facials, manual microdermabrasion to provide solutions, we offer free skincare consultations during the months of September and October, plus 20% discount for IWI members. CIDESCO, CIBTAC, ITEC qualifications. For more information and to make an appointment contact Siobhan or Gonca: Siobhan: 05355527887 / 00353851562889. Gonca: 05443235081 siobhandirilgen@hotmail.com

GRAND BAZAAR DISCOUNTS

The following vendors in the Grand Bazaar are offering 10% discount.

Koç Leather & Fur KaptanBros, lighting and home decoration Tarkan Özbudak, fine Kütahya and İznik hand-painted ceramics, tiles İgüs, cashmere & silk Ucuzcular Baharat (Bilge Kadıoğlu): Spice market no:51 Eminönü

ISTANBUL TENNIS ACADEMY (ISTA)

Offers individual and group lessons for children and adults of various skill levels. Our experienced coach will help to instill basic tennis skills and proper techniques in beginners as well as help develop professional skills for advanced players. Coach Kenan Dundar has extensive experience giving lessons to foreign students of all different levels and age groups. There are 5 tennis courts: 4 clay courts and 1 hard court. Every tennis court at our club meets the specifications for professional tennis courts but the tennis club not only has great tennis courts, it also has all the necessary modern infrastructure for training, warm-up and rest after the game. ISTA offers excellent opportunities for training and education but our tennis club is not only about the lessons and playing tennis, it is also a lively, relaxing and great place to meet other tennis fans and make interesting acquaintances. ISTA offers a 10% discount to IWI members. Courts are open from 7 am to midnight and for more detailed information please contact: 0535-3904983 kenandundar911@hotmail.com (Kenan Dundar) or 0531-9452588 pautova@hotmail.com (Olga Dundar)

STEVEN KITCHING BRITISH HAIRSTYLIST

I’m happy to offer a 10% discount to all IWI members when booking your first appointment. I have 20 years experience in cutting, styling and colouring and offer a professional friendly service in the comfort of your home. For more details and appointments call or e-mail (0551) 412- 4784. stevekitching@hotmail.co.uk

HILLSIDE SPORTS

With a ‘feel good’ mission, these sports centres provide multifunctional and boutique services. Hillside’s unique products consider personal needs with a team of friendly, experienced and internationally certified experts. We introduce the world’s latest sports trends and provide a colourful range of products to members, combining fitness and fun. The ‘Hillsider community’ consists of Hillside Etiler, Hillside İstinye and Hillside Trio members. Activities, tours, cultural travels, tournaments and parties enrich the lives of the community of members. Hillside City Clubs are wellness addresses that satisfy all needs of their guests and makes sure they feel good. We offer a 20% discount on general membership to IWI members. Contact: Hillside City Club Etiler 0212 3522333 (Alkent Sitesi Tepecik Yolu Etiler).

Hillside City Club Trio 0216 3241111 (Trio Konutları, Kozyatağı Hillside City Club İstinye 0212 3672000 ( İstinyePark AVM)

DENTGROUP DENTAL CLINICS

DentGroup Dental Clinics is an ISO certified chain of dental clinics in Istanbul, Turkey. DentGroup has its own laboratory named DentLab and with 6 dental clinics, it offers a full range of dental services for all age groups, including orthodontics, implantology and paediatric dentistry. As an experienced team of specialists, DentGroup provides patient-centered personalised care with high quality and affordable dentistry. DentGroup Dental Clinics offers 20% discount on all treatments to IWI members for 2015-2016 IWI season. The offer is valid at all six clinics: DentGroup Maslak, DentGroup Ataşehir, DentGroup Bağdat Caddesi, DentGroup Kids, DentGroup Göztepe and DentGroup Acarkent.

Experienced in Expat life for 15 years , I am ready to assist you during your transmission period .

I am a certifed Life Coach ,Intercultural Trainer and MBTI Specialist , speak German and English fluently.

I would be happy to offer 20 % discount to IWI members .

Ozlem Hersek: 0532-616-50-45 ozlemhersek@gmail.com

KIRKPINAR LOKANTASI / TURKISH CUISINE

Modern Turkish Cuisine. Kırkpınar Lokantası is offering IWI members a 10% discount on all Kırkpınar tastes. Show the manager or cashier your membership card and enjoy healthy Turkish food. Tea or coffee are free with your meal. For more information, see www. kirkpinarlokantasi.com.tr

DENTRAM DENTAL CLINICS

Dentram Dental Clinics offers 20% discount on all treatments to IWI members. The offer is valid at all three clinics: Dentram Levent; Dentram Bağdat Caddesi; Dentram Acarkent. Please have your IWI membershıp card with you. www.dentram.com

CONCEPT LANGUAGES

Located in the heart of Etiler, Concept Languages is offering free Turkish conversation classes to any IWI member presenting their card.

Classes will take place twice a month between 14:30 –15:30 and for full information and reservations. Please Contact: Başak Toksoy (0212) 351- 18 40 basak.toksoy@conceptlanguages.com

TIME OUT SUBSCRIPTIONS

Time Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discout on subscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city by contacting: Omer Karanis, omer@ajansmedya. com. www.timeoutistanbul.com

CHILL OUT SPA NIŞANTAŞI

British salon owner Ann Marie Sabuncu is offering IWI members a 25% discount on all treatments and package programs. Chill Out is a small boutique spa using quality products from Decleor. Latest technology LPG body treatments and reflexology are just some of the treatments available. For more information please contact Ann Marie on 0212 231 1159. www.chilloutspa.com.tr

SWISS CENTERDENT DENTAL CLINIC ZORLU CENTER

Swiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, İstanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We are striving to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for all IWI members.

Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212/ 353 63 83 www. swisscenterdent.com

MOMMA ZEN/ANNEZEN

Momma Zen/annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy for the pregnant woman, baby yoga and baby massage workshops and kid's yoga.

We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birth classes, workshops, massages and child yoga. Momma Zen/annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. Jo Harris: 0536 8285587. www.momma-zen.com. www. annezen.com/program

BOYNUZ STEAK HOUSE & KASAP

Boynuz offers IWI members a 10% discount.

Polignon Mah. Polignon Cd. Fevzi Cakmak Sk. No:2 Istiniye Phone: 0212 2291910. www.boynuzet.com

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IWI POLICIES Membership Directory Membership information is only available online in the members only area of the website at present, but depending on sponsorship availability, may again be printed in the future as it was in the past. Whether online or in print, any and all member information is provided to IWI members in strictest confidentiality. Provision of member information to third parties contravenes IWI policy.

MEMBERSHIP

ADVERTISING

Membership registration is also available at our Newcomers meetings, held each month on both the European and Asian sides. Please refer to the Newcomers page in this Lale magazine for details of timing and location.

Classified ads: Restricted to 50 words.

Membership is open to all women who hold a Non-Turkish passport or who are married to a foreign passport holding spouse. For application details, please visit our website www.iwi-tr.org.

Changing Address or Lale Problems?

Don’t forget to give us your new address (postal and/or e-mail) to avoid delays to the delivery of Lale magazine or for up-to-date IWI member information. Contact our Membership Coordinator by e-mail at membership@ iwi-tr.org.

If your Lale magazine doesn’t arrive, please contact the Membership Coordinator membership@iwi-tr.org

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To place an advertisement please contact us at advertising@iwi-tr.org.

Advertisements must be confirmed through signed contract before any payment is accepted.

Member cost: 1-3 FREE in our online publications (Non-Commercial Ads) Non-Member cost: $60 plus 18% VAT. All advertising costs are payable by bank transfer. No cash payments accepted. A copy of the payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: advertising@iwi-tr.org. Only paid advertisements can be included in Lale.

Payment Details Bank: Garanti Bankası Branch Code (Hesap Şubesi): 340 Etiler TL Account (TL Hesap): TR03 0006 2000 3400 0006 2991 17 USD Account (USD Hesap): TR09 0006 2000 3400 0009 0939 67 Customer Name: İstanbul Uluslararası Kadınlar Derneği İktisadi İşletmesi

DISCLAIMER

Lale Content The IWI as an organisation and the IWI Board members act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not accept any liability regarding the accuracy or content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles. In order to comply with these laws or publishing standards the IWI reserve the right to reject or edit any submission to Lale.

Furthermore, the IWI does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers.

Programmes Cancellation of a programme reservation after the deadline remains fully payable. Please refer to our website www.iwi-tr.org for up to date details, last minute additions or programme changes. The IWI reserves the right to cancel programmes due to insufficient numbers. You are responsible for both you and your child’s safety and the IWI cannot accept responsibility for injury or extra cost incurred during any activity organised by the IWI, or advertised in Lale.

IICS. Exceptional. Forward Thinking.

Years of Academic Excellence

1911-2011

IICS is the only Early Years 3 through Grade 12 International school in Istanbul fully authorized and globally accredited by the IB, CIS and NEASC.

• Child-centered education Early Years 3 through Grade 12 • Rigorous academics delivered by highly qualified faculty • Top university acceptances • Fully-authorized International Baccalaureate school (PYP, MYP, DP) • Multicultural staff & students • Modern technology & resources • Over a century of excellence

www.iics.k12.tr

www.iics.k12.tr