Lale January February 2017

MAGAZINE OF THE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN OF ISTANBUL

03 JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

Hipster Hangout Cihangir is the Cat’s meow

Work It!

SPACE CAMP TURKEY

Launching kids’ interest in science

Finding a Job in Turkey Pickles to Relish The Traditional Art of Pickling

CONTENTS JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017

LALE NEWS

4 SOCIETY Kandıllı Walk, Business Studio, Elgiz Exhibit, Grand Bazaar, Christmas Lunch, Gingerbread House Workshop, Whirling Dervish 18 BUSINESS NETWORKING The Impact of Business Culture on Corporate Performance

19 LEGAL The Ins and Outs of Finding Employment in Turkey

20 EXPAT LIFE Read about Karen Yarnold’s musings on life in Istanbul

22 SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Impact Hub Istanbul is helping change makers connect and collaborate

50 EVENTS Kick off the New Year with a host of new programmes

LALE FEATURES

26 INTERVIEW Read about how Aylin Esma Gözübüyük is helping make an organic lifestyle accessible to Istanbulites

36 CITY Explore Istanbul’s traditional eateries with Culinary Backstreets 40 NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR Spend a day in

stylish Cihangir

48 ARCHITECTURE Learn more about ArifPaşa Apartment- a hidden gem in Dolapdere

LALE LIFESTYLE

32 MUMS ‘N KIDS Space Camp Turkey is one of three programs of its kind in the world and helping create future scientists and leaders

34 GOURMET Pickles are an old “superfood” that is new again - learn about the process of pickling and its benefits

44 TRAVEL Take a trip with Photo Club Istanbul

as they trek through Bolu’s mountainous villages and beautiful scenery

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LALE REGULARS

3 LETTERS FROM THE EDITOR AND CHAIR 14 BOARD FOCUS 56 BOARD NEWS 57 NEWCOMERS 58 MUMS ’N KIDS 60 CLUBS, GROUPS AND ASSOCIATIONS 63 SPECIAL OFFERS

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LALE BOARD INFORMATION IWI Office Hours: First Wednesday of the month, 10:30am to 1:00pm. Answering service available every working day Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahalesi, Ecza Sok. Pol Center Casci, Apt. No: 4, Sisli, Istanbul – TURKEY Telephone: 0212 287 35 71 www.iwi-tr.org

Dergi Adı / Magazine Name: Lale, Monthly Programme of the International Women of İstanbul Yayını Yapan / Publisher: IWI International Women of İstanbul, Dernek Kod: 34-64/027 İrtibat Adresi / Address: Esentepe Mahalesi, Ecza Sok. Pol Center Casci, Apt. No: 4, Sisli, Istanbul – TURKEY İmtiyaz Sahibi / Licensee: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Sorumlu Yazı İşleri Müdürü / Responsible Editor: Yasemin Kunze Adresi / Address: Piyalepaşa Bulvarı, Kastel İş Merkezi B-Blok Kat 5 Kasımpaşa-Istanbul Yayın Türü / Issue Type: Yerel Süreli Tasarım / Design: Marlet Corporate Publications www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Matbaa / Printer: Marlet Print Solutions Fener Kalamış Caddesi: No:30 Kalamış / İstanbul www.marlet.com.tr +90 216 386 32 16 Basım Tarihi: 24.12.2016 Sayı: 84 Official Facebook page: facebook.com/istanbulwomen Instagram account @iwistanbul Cover Photo by: Nancy Habbas

IWI BOARD MEMBERS Chairwoman

Anna Ilhan

chairwoman@iwi-tr.org

Vice Chairwoman

Karen Yarnold

vicechair@iwi-tr.org

Treasurer

Leen Saket

treasury@iwi-tr.org

Secretary

Jeanette von AlvenslebenNiethammer

secretary@iwi-tr.org

Membership Coordinator

Elena Sklyarskaya

membership@iwi-tr.org

Lale Editor

Monisha Kar

lale@iwi-tr.org

Sponsorship Coordinator

Gülşen Şahin

sponsorship@iwi-tr.org

Neighbourhood Community Coordinator

Maria Eroğlu

ncm@iwi-tr.org

Newcomers Coordinator (European side)

Ayse Yücel

newcomerseurope@iwi-tr.org

Newcomers Coordinator (Asian side)

Gabriele Sailer

newcomersasia@iwi-tr.org

Events Coordinator

Merle Klehn

events@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Coordinator

Kristina Wilfore

charity@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Coordinator

Fiona Slay

programs@iwi-tr.org

Marketing & Communications

Sibele Valsani

marketing@iwi-tr.org

Business Networking Coordinator

Halima Hodzic

networking@iwi-tr.org

Schools Liaison Coordinator

Krastina Aranitasi

schools@iwi-tr.org

Volunteers Coordinator

Anna Mozejko

volunteer@iwi-tr.org

OTHER IWI TEAM MEMBERS Advertising Administrator

Leyla Stang

advertising@iwi-tr.org

Newsletter Administrator

Suzy Kaluti

newsletter@iwi-tr.org

Website Administrator

TBA

digitalmedia@iwi-tr.org

Social Media Administrator TBA

socialmedia@iwi-tr.org

Lale Deputy Editor

Erika Cisnernos

lale@iwi-tr.org

Programmes Team Members

Olga Dundar, Kathleen di Giacomo, Alexis Harvey

programs@iwi-tr.org

Events Team Members

Merle Klehn Anke Tamer

venue@iwi-tr.org

Sponsor Support Administrator

Ginatare Nemanyte

sponsorsupport@iwi-tr.org

Social Responsibility Administrator

Nathalie Versavel

charity@iwi-tr.org

Further vacant positions can be found on page 56

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LALE

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

It is January, and that means a time for new resolutions. One of mine is to be more mindful about cooking, and what I eat.

I am excited that in this issue we focus on different aspects of food and eating. Local expat guide Monica Fritz talks to the founders of Culinary Backstreets on the traditional eateries that give this city’s food scene its heart and soul. For those wanting to try their hand at making something epically Turkish, check out our article about pickles on page 34. On page 26, you can meet local entrepreneur Aylin Esma Gözübüyük, owner of Camba Organik. Her juicery, store and café grew out of a desire to increase awareness about our environment, sustainable practices and healthy living.

Some of our adventurous Photo club members trekked to Bolu to convene with nature. You can check out their escapades and beautiful images in our Travel feature on page 44. Closer to home, you can explore the fashionable quarter of Cihangir on page 40. After shopping, be sure to stop by one of the many coffee shops for a pick-me-up. And of course, our programmes team has done a wonderful job of scheduling activities that highlight the rich culture of the city. See what is in store on page 50.

Before I sign off, I would like to welcome new Lale Deputy Editor, Erika Cisneros. She hails from Mexico City, has a background in graphic design and worked in packaging for several international companies.

She comes to Istanbul with her husband, 2 daughters and 1 very spoiled dog in tow.

We hope you enjoy this issue and we look forward to bringing you more interesting content.

Monisha Kar Lale Editor

A LETTER FROM THE CHAIR

Recently, on my arrival into the United States I was asked by the US Border Control Officer, “What do you do in Turkey?”

Being tired after the long trip and not having the energy for anything else I said, “My husband works there.”

“So you are a housewife?” He said, looking down at my documents.

That inner flame of annoyance flared up as I said, “I really do not like that term.” He looked at me with surprise as I calmly said, “Well, I volunteer my time utilising my business experience with various non-profit organisations in Istanbul. I am also an entrepreneur researching new business opportunities and ventures. However, I am currently not pulling in a salary and, unfortunately for the time being, rely on my husband to support me.” The Officer, who had a fatherly appearance about himself looked a tad amused as I smiled and continued, “So, yes, you could say I am just a housewife; although, I would prefer the term ‘domesticated engineer’ if I really need a title.”

The Officer smiled and nodded his head, “Welcome home” as he stamped my passport.

Looking back, I recognise that 2016 was a year of change for IWI. Some changes are not immediately seen by our members with the savings on administrative costs and the improvement to our financial reporting; whereas, other changes are immediately noticeable such as improvements to the variety of monthly programmes and moving away from a seasonal membership to a yearly membership.

One change that I am happy to see is the perception of what IWI is. I was once told that IWI is a “bunch of housewives.” We are not! IWI Members are far from “just housewives.” We are mothers and daughters, business women and entrepreneurs; sisters and friends. If we need to label ourselves we are ‘international women’ living in Istanbul.

Warm regards, Anna ILHAN IWI Chairwoman

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

COFFEE AND CULTURE WALK THROUGH KANDILLI

The village of Kandıllı which lies on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus directly opposite Bebek between Çengelköy and Anadolu Hisar was the scene of the most recent Coffee and Culture Walk. Thirty-year resident and long-time IWI member Lesley Tahtakılıç led the group from the Kandıllı ferry boat dock through the small alleyways and hilly streets of this charming area. This once derelict neighbourhood is now a highly sought-after area - home to many fully restored Ottoman era wooden houses and mansions.

Participants stopped at a Greek Orthodox church along the way and the walk ended at the Adile Sultan Sarayı palace, overlooking the village with wonderful views of the Bosphorus

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

BUSINESS STUDIO This year, IWI Business Networking started a new series of public discussions in an open forum where professional women in Istanbul can discuss topics that affect them in today’s ever-changing business environment. Whether you are an entrepreneur looking to start or grow your business, or you are struggling with the common challenges that startups face, all are welcome to participate Social Responsibility Coordinator Kristina Wilfore moderated an interactive discussion with panelists Tara Lutman Agacayak of Tara Lutman Agacayak Coaching, Kamil Kıvanç Özdemir, Attorney at Law, and Ayşe Sabuncu, Impact Hub Co-Founder. They all provided their professional outlook on how to start, maintain and improve your business in Turkey

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: AIVITA ARIKA

ELGIZ MUSEUM FUGITIVE SHADOW AND MELTING POINT EXHIBITS Visitors braved the rainy weather and were treated to not one but two exhibits at the Elgiz Museum at the end of November. International Relations Coordinator Kimberley Ann Duyguluer hosted members and led them through the museum and provided background and critique of works showing. Members visited the rooftop sculpture exhibit Fugitive Shadow which wrapped up after 6 months. They also visited the permanent collection as well as the Melting Point exhibit by Asli Kutluay which completed a successful tour with the Venice Biennale earlier this year

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PHOTOGRAPHY: ANNETTE FLECK

LALE SOCIETY

GRAND BAZAAR

BACKSTREETS, HANS AND ROOFTOPS

Members were given the chance to experience a unique view of the magical Grand Bazaar with the help of popular expat guide Monica Fritz. Monica took participants through the backstreets to see the original Bedestan (Old Bazaar), and the narrow alleyways that opened up to the 17th century Caravansarais which is home to Armenian silversmiths and hidden cafes. The highlight of the tour was viewing the city from the rooftop of the Buyuk Valide Han, just behind the Grand Bazaar

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

IWI CROSS-CONTINENT CHRISTMAS LUNCH This year, we brought together European and Asian side members for a very special Christmas Lunch at 360 East in Moda. Perched on top of the Hilton Doubletree, guests had a panoramic view of Kadikรถy, old Istanbul, the Marmara Sea and Moda. Legendary singer Shai Shaker entertained with festive songs while diners enjoyed a multi-course Christmas meal specially prepared for the occasion

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PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

LALE SOCIETY

GINGERBREAD COOKIE HOUSE WORKSHOP The multi-talented Olesia at Nara Art Studio led participants in a gingerbread cookie house workshop where they flexed their artistic muscles and learned to decorate and paint cookies with edible Christmas time ornaments. Participants created a festive decoration that they could either take home to eat or gift to a loved one

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LALE SOCIETY

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF CULTURAL INTERACTIONS POINT

AN EVENING WITH WHIRLING DERVISHES

Whirling Dervishes are synonymous with Turkey, but very few people ever get to see “behind the scenes� of their mystical world. Whirling Dervishes are members of the Mevlevi Order and followers of Rumi, a great Turkish poet and mystic. The Mevlevi Sema Ritual, which has a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status, is a synthesis of spiritual love attained by a combination of music and whirling and is considered by the Order to be a key requirement for spiritual devotion. IWI Partner Cultural Interactions Point (CIP) hosted a unique opportunity to meet two whirling dervishes, and their musician for an overview of the essential elements of their movement, and a demonstration of parts of their ritual. Participants had the opportunity to partake in whirling as well

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The IWI Events Team is very pleased with the outcome of this large event

We hope you enjoyed it as much as we did

The Event Team

14 Dedicated women (7 nationa lities)

12 weeks of Prepa ration 2000 Woma n-Ho u rs

1 Selfie Sa nta (w ith rudolf as a side-kick)

The Sponsorship 6 Event Sponsors

The Entertainment

42 Lottery Prizes

(va lued at 500 TL a nd above) 3,000 Give-a ways

6 Performa nces 4 ho u rs of Enjoyment 3 Sa ntas (don’t tell yo u r ch ildren!)

(with entra nce tickets)

150 Ch ildren Sa nta Gifts

The Stalls

15 Food Co u rt Sta l ls (10 nationa lities)

87 Un ique Com mercia l Sta l ls

21 Com mu n ity Tab les (7 cha rities) 1 Very Lo ud Ch ildren’s Area

The Outcome 110,000 TL Ra ised 3,300 Tickets so ld 1 Day of Fu n for All

The Volunteers 101 Volu nteers

350 Ho u rs of Much Appreciated Serv ic e

All net proceeds raised will go direc directly to the IWI supported charities.

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www.iwi-tr.org/social-responsibility

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANAS ADHAMI, JULIANA ELERMAN, SERENA ELERMAN, THIAGO VALSANI

FLASHBACKS TO THE

IWI CHRISTMAS BAZAAR 2016 The 2016 IWI Christmas Bazaar was held December 4.

The success of the event could not have been achieved without the support from our members; our sponsors and partners; and our Board of Directors and embedded team. Well done!

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FLASHBACKS TO THE

IWI CHRISTMAS BAZAAR 2016

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A big THANK YOU goes to the Events Team for all of their passion, drive and commitment.

Karen Yarnold, Anke Tamer, Jeanette von Alvensleben-Niethammer, Maria Eroğlu, Krastina Aranitasi, Merle Klehn, Anna Ilhan, Gülşen Şahin, Gintare Nemanyte, Anna Mozejko, Sibele Valsani, Nadine Optiz, Leyla Stang and Leen Saket.

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LALE NETWORKING

FEATURE: SEMIHA ÜNAL

IMPACT OF BUSINESS CULTURE ON CORPORATE PERFORMANCE

As an expat executive, how to seamlessly and successfully transition into an overseas assignment and do business globally is critical. Executive Semiha Ünal explains In fact, it is possible for an expatriate to adapt to a new business environment by recognising the different dimensions in business culture, understanding them and taking the necessary steps to adapt to or embrace them. In such cases, these differences can be transformed into advantages, paving the way to success.

A key success factor for many expat assignments is “the implementation of the core business by Turkish employees and operational management” as soon as possible. However, this is hardly ever realized by simply copying and imposing on employees the working processes that other international offices in the company are accustomed to.

Instead, this is where the need for expertise and relevant skills come into play. We as Business Support Turkey (BST) see to it that different cultures are quickly integrated and that a mutual understanding is achieved in order to facilitate a smooth transition and enable effective and efficient relationship building between management and Turkish staff.

HOW WE DO THIS

The first step is to differentiate the cultural dimensions between your home country and Turkey. Accordingly, we help you identify and understand the corporate culture of the organisation in which you are working. If you happen to work with a company that has the same corporate culture in each country, we can help you understand the mutual interaction with local business contacts outside of your organisation. This is followed by a session, which reveals and measures your cultural quotients and ability to adapt to a different culture.

Finally, we take time to assess and understand your individual management skills. Our aim is to discover which of your individual skills should be activated in order to improve your business culture acumen. This is a 2-day program consisting of 5 separate modules, which can be taken separately or as a complete package. The program is a mixture of methodologies and personal experiences. After this training program we are available to provide ongoing coaching support as well. This provides an opportunity for the expat to share

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any difficulties he/she is facing and to obtain support, especially during the first couple of months of their new assignment.

WHY DO WE DO THIS?

We have extensive experience doing business in Turkey whether in a corporate setting or in the area of entrepreneurship. We have had successful business interactions over the years with organisations that span the globe, including the Netherlands, Belgium, USA, UK, Germany, Italy, South Korea, Taiwan, China and India.

We have a large and effective network and can provide support for expatriates who are interested in pursuing these connections. We hope that by passing on the assets and knowledge we have acquired over our lifetime that it helps expats ease into this transition period and makes them more successful.

CASE STUDY

We worked with a client executive who was accustomed to a flat organisational structure where subordinates collaborated with him to accomplish business goals. Once he started working at the local subsidiary of his company, he assumed that his subordinates would be willing to share their ideas and be receptive to constructive criticism.

However, during internal meetings, everyone would listen to him, but there was no participation or dialogue. He wasn’t aware that his subordinates were accustomed to a high-distanceto-power environment, meaning, his staff mobilised only if they received an order from the ‘boss.’ While they did not object to anything he said or requested, they also did not take initiative without first asking permission for every tactical action item. After completing our module which helped inform him of the main cultural differences he faced, he was able to recognise and understand the motivation and rationale for his staff’s behaviour. At that point, his next challenge was to determine how to collaborate and communicate with his staff to reach a mutually agreed upon working relationship.

First he had to understand the perception that his management style had on his staff. They expected him to know everything, as he was the

‘boss’. From the point of view of his staff, they thought ‘Why should we tell him what to do? If we knew what to do and how to act for a particular issue, then what was his role as a manager?’

How could they respect someone who was acting according to the ideas or opinions of his subordinates instead of his own? After developing his sense of cultural intelligence he slowly gained new perspective and insight on the perception of his subordinates and how to encourage them to be the best they can be. He was able to motivate, galvanise and lead them in order to reach their corporate goals by creating productive relationships. After filling the gaps between his individual skills, understanding the cultural dimensions and corporate culture and giving weight to people’s differences, he was now able to communicate effectively in a different cultural setting and make use of his local team to gain a competitive edge for reaching his personal and corporate goals.

WHO WILL PROVIDE THE TRAINING?

Semiha Ünal, who grew up in the Netherlands, is the owner BST. She has an MBA degree from Empire State College College / State University of New York, and over 30 years of international business experience. She is fluent in Turkish, Dutch and English. She can also converse in French and German at a basic level.

During her 23-year corporate career, she worked in the following fields: oo Office management oo Foreign trade oo Corporate communications oo International project management oo Executive Training and Coaching oo Planning and Production

After 7 years of entrepreneurship experience, she is able to provide consultation and business context for: oo Small business vs. large enterprise oo Service vs. Industry oo Employee vs. Manager oo Local vs. International oo Team Member vs. Team Leader oo Corporate vs. Entrepreneur oo Private vs. Public company

FEATURE: AYŞE ERGEN

LALE LEGAL

THE INS AND OUTS OF FINDING EMPLOYMENT IN TURKEY If you are seeking employment in Istanbul, how do you find a job and what are the requirements for you to legally work in Turkey? Ayşe Ergen lays it out for us There are many different reasons which bring people to Istanbul. Whatever the reason, firstly welcome to this enchanting city where East meets West.

We understand that as beautiful as this city is, and after exploring until your feet are sore, there comes a time when you want to settle back into a normal routine. A normal routine often means finding a job.

As you will probably already know, Turkey is a huge country. However, though not strictly, but most jobs for foreigners are based in Istanbul. Areas such as Ankara and Izmir also have a ‘foreigner’ market. There are also limited opportunities in other smaller cities especially in teaching.

Methods of Seeking Employment 1- Networking The old saying, “It’s not about what you know but, who you know” definitely applies in Turkey. As Turkey is still a developing country, there are plenty of loopholes that are regularly exploited.

Therefore, keep your circle large! as there will always be someone, who knows someone else, who knows someone else who may be the person to offer you that job opportunity.

Furthermore, there have been many occasions when my friends in Human Resources have informed me of roles which they have open and asked me if I knew anyone who could fit the role.

I have then used my own initiative and found a method of publicising this to my own group of friends who have then also re-publicised this amongst their friends. One of the social networking organisations where you can expand your network is Internations (internations.org).

2- Social Media Following on from networking, as a foreigner I find this method very effective. You can use social tools such as LinkedIn, and Facebook.

LinkedIn Many of you will know that LinkedIn is a business networking tool. Therefore, make sure your profile is ‘top notch’ and you are ready to go. Human Resources departments use this tool to trawl through profiles which match their vacancy requirements. LinkedIn also has a feature where you can also trawl through vacancies and apply. However, the effectiveness of this tool depends on the type of job you are seeking.

Bigger and more global companies seem to use LinkedIn more effectively.

Facebook Facebook is particularly effective if you are looking for a teaching vacancy or a vacancy in a medium to small organisation. However, some bigger companies also utilise Facebook to seek candidates. There are plenty of groups on Facebook. To name just a few: oo Istanbul English Teaching GREENLIST oo Teaching Jobs in Turkey oo Teaching & Education Jobs in Istanbul Other websites for Teaching jobs If you are a native English speaker, then teaching English could be an option. There are a vast number of jobs opportunities. You could check out the following websites: www.teachaway.com/teaching-jobsturkey http://englishjobsturkey.com/joblistings/ www.eslemployment.com www.learn4good.com/jobs/language/ english/list/teaching/turkey/ www.totalesl.com www.tesall.com/esl-tesol-jobs General Job Search Foreigners are probably more accustomed to using the internet in their job searches. The same could be said for Turkey also. The only problem is the response rate from recruiters is pretty low which can be disheartening. I suggest to keep plodding on.

The following are some sites which are widely used in Turkey: Yenibiris: Generally used, good quality with plenty of listings.

Kariyer: Generally used, good quality with plenty of listings.

Insan Kaynakları: Generally used, good quality with plenty of listings.

Learn 4 Good: More geared towards the teaching industry.

Iskur: Turkish employment agency.

Career Jet: Includes job options for Turkey.

Indeed: Turkish version of the U.S. job search site Indeed.com.

Secret CV: Used widely in Turkey and recommended by managers.

Recruitment Agencies This is an inquiry we get very often. Are there recruitment agencies in Turkey?

Yes! To name a handful: Adecco, Nicholson International, Catenon, and Stanton Chase. However this list is not exhaustive.

Working as a Foreigner It is a legal requirement under Turkish Law for all foreigners to have work permits. If you are found be working illegally, you will be deported.

Work permits are granted to the employer rather than the individual employee. Work permit applications can be made either at a Turkish Consulate in your home country or in Turkey to the TC Calışma ve Sosyal Güvenlik Bakanlığı.

When Working All employers are required by law to pay an employees SGK (Social Security) from the very first day they start work. The same applies to foreign nationals. If your employer refuses to do this you can report them to the TC Calışma ve Sosyal Güvenlik Bakanlığı.

The authorities take this matter very seriously.

Though for Turkish nationals, Turkish Employment Laws do not recognise any type of temporary work, agency work or contractual work, the case is different for foreign nationals. Foreign nationals can be employed on a contractual basis which would mean that the employer can bypass SGK requirements.

AskAyse, located in Harbiye offers Work Permit & Residency applications, TC citizenship, drivers’ license conversion, relocation services, company formation, and advice on last will and testament.

If you need any further advice and guidance please contact us at info@askayse.com

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LALE EXPAT LIFE

FEATURE KAREN YARNOLD, PHOTOGRAPHY:COURTESY OF THIAGO VALSANI

!

HOŞGELDIN

TÜRKIYE’YE

Instead of the usually monthly reflections on expat life in Istanbul, Karen Yarnold is temporarily renaming this page to “IWI Hoesgeldiniz”. Read on to see why

W

hen you read this you will be in 2017. Happy New Year by the way. I hope 2017 isn’t as freaky as 2016 was. I don’t think I could take all those crazy world events again! For this issue as I would like to focus on the amazing IWI Christmas Festival. I know I shouldn’t boast terribly unbecoming of a lady - but wasn’t it wonderful? There are plenty of pictures and statistics in the full report elsewhere in this magazine, but I just wanted to take some time out to wax lyrical about the event planning. I think I shall rename the column as “IWI Hoşgeldiniz” for this issue as I would like to focus on the amazing IWI Christmas Festival. I know I shouldn’t boast - terribly unbecoming of a lady - but wasn’t it wonderful? There are plenty of pictures and statistics in the full report elsewhere in this magazine, but I just wanted to take some time out to wax lyrical about the event planning.

We started in early September and had weekly 2 hour Skype calls for 3 months. After the Opening Meeting we drafted a few new players into the team, and so the event took roots.

They will probably wince, but I feel the need to tell you about the team. There were 12 of us in total – 1 Brit, 1 American, 1 Australian, 1 Brazilian, 1 Jordanian, 2 Bulgarians and 5 (yes five) Germans. So, as you can imagine, the whole event was managed with discipline and efficiency. I must say – I was very impressed on those Skype calls as only 3 of us are native English speakers (well, perhaps just one of us as my descendants did take the language to both Australia and America back in the day – another story!) but the default language of IWI is, thankfully, English. And these ladies were amazing. I am always in awe of those who can speak more than one language.

So – what about the team? Well firstly Anna I. – our esteemed Chairwoman, but for this event – our “brand” expert. That Selfie Santa was ingenious. Just what we needed. Then there was Sibele who helped with Communications – she kept trying to tell me to write shorter emails. I think I achieved that, but she might have other thoughts. I always sneaked in a few extra sentences when she wasn’t looking. Merle was a massive help as Venue Coordinator. The Marriott staff were fantastic – but Merle made sure we were a joint team all the way through – not just on the day. Anke and Jeanette did an amazing job keeping the stallholders in-line and informed – again not the easiest of roles – especially on the

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day when lots of people complain about their position and ask to be moved. Gülşen bust a gut getting us lots of lottery donators, and several new sponsors to boot (not easy in the current economy), and Leyla played a stormer with the lottery preparation – no duplicate winners for us this year. Leen was so well organised with the financials up-front that the treasury was the most boring room in the hotel that day – and we had a ballpark figure by 6:30pm – unbelievable achievement. Then there were the Bulgarian (Duracell) Bunnies – Krastina and Maria – they managed the Community stalls, amongst about 700 other things they do for schools and other charities. Their passion knows no bounds.

And let’s not forget the extended team. Nadine on the Web pages. Gintare helping with the Sponsorship appeals (not an easy job). Fiona and her husband Bob on the dreaded Food Tokens. And of course all the Board Members who came and took a very active part on the day.

But I still haven’t mentioned one person – Anna M – our volunteer coordinator. She spent the first month in Australia where, apparently, that 1st world country has huge problems with internet access. She then went to the depths of central Turkey for a few days where her PC gave up. She was so glad to come back to Istanbul, bought a 2nd hand cleaned up PC, only to find that it crashed on her within a week. Every time I spoke to her some new issue has risen to bite her. Anna spent the 3 months in a technical void – but she still managed to contact the volunteers and pull it all out of the bag on the day. I have “crashed” today. It’s all finally caught up with me.

So a TV night in my PJs beckons. Bet I’ll be asleep by 9pm and will have to watch the programs all over again another night!

So – once again, a huge ‘Thank You’ to all those mentioned above, and also to the myriad of volunteers and Marriott staff who helped on the day. As I write this, I’m off to Japan tomorrow for a well-earned holiday, but will be resuming those weekly Skype calls in January – there is always something to do. For those who made it to the end of this article and might be interested in joining this crazy team, then please contact me at vicechair@iwi-tr.org. I can always find something I can delegate.

ANNUAL REPORTS | MAGAZINE PUBLISHING | CORPORATE VIDEOS

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10 BENEFITS OF BREAST MILK Breast milk, which contains all nutrients that babies need, such as proteins, carbohydrates, minerals, vitamins and fats, is the greatest miracle of nature. Particularly, babies who gain sufficient weight during the first 6 months do not require any nutrition other than breast milk. One of the most important effects of breast milk is its ability to strengthen the bond between mother and baby. Therefore, babies should be introduced to breast milk as soon as possible after birth. Acıbadem Fulya Hospital Pediatric Specialist Ülkü Tıraş, who says “The earlier the baby is started on breast milk, the earlier breast milk production in the mother’s body will begin”, explained the 10 vitally important benefits of breast milk during the World Breastfeeding Week celebrated from 1st to 7th of October.

1. Prevents obesity The contents of foremilk, which is produced at the beginning of breastfeeding, is different from the contents of hindmilk, which is produced at the end of breastfeeding. While foremilk is rich in protein, hindmilk has a high rate of fat. This prevents obesity by giving the baby a feeling of fullness.

Breast milk has the most suitable composition for prematurely born babies. This makes it possible for premature babies to gain adequate weight.

2. Protects the skin from infections Breast milk has effects that are lethal for many microorganisms. The special enzymes in breast milk provide natural immunity for babies. This protects the baby against diseases the mother goes through, such as measles, scarlet fever and chicken pox during the first 9 months after birth.

3. Prevents allergic diseases The contents of foremilk, which is produced at the beginning of breastfeeding, is different from the contents of hindmilk, which is produced at the end of breastfeeding. While foremilk is rich in protein, hindmilk has a high rate of fat. This prevents obesity by giving the baby a feeling of fullness.

Breast milk has the most suitable composition for prematurely born babies. This makes it possible for premature babies to gain adequate weight.

4. Leads to higher IQ scores The average IQ score of babies who are breastfed is higher in comparison to those who are not. Pediatric Specialist Ülkü Tıraş says, “This is particularly more distinctive in premature babies. While the reason is not clearly identified yet, it is believed that long chain fatty acids have an impact on this. There is a great number of studies on this subject and the most recent one of these was conducted in New Zealand. The study, which was carried out with observation of over 1000 subjects over a period extending to 18 years, revealed that the subjects who were breastfed had higher levels of intelligence and more success in academic life”.

+90 216 544 46 64 international@acibadem.com.tr www.acibademinternational.com 22

5. Affects growth factors Numerous growth factors in breast milk provide a better development for many organs such as the brain and intestines. This constitutes one of breast milk’s most important qualities which have an impact on the baby’s life.

6. Does not cause extra workload for kidneys Colostrum facilitates excretion of feces by accelerating bowel movements. It has a higher protection factor against microorganisms. Since colostrum has low osmolality, it protects the kidneys as well.

7. Reduces the risk of breast cancer Another miracle of breast milk, which strengthens the immune system and provides protection against infectious diseases, is that baby girls who are breastfed have a comparatively lower risk of suffering from breast cancer in the future.

Breastfeeding reduces the risk of breast cancer for mothers as well.

9. Facilitates oral hygiene It is not possible for some babies to be near their mothers due to special circumstances. In such cases, the baby is given breast milk after it is collected from the mother. In particular, it has been observed that usage of breast milk in oral hygiene for a premature baby in intensive care is very beneficial, even if the baby is unable to be fed orally.

8. Provides psychological support Breast milk is always available and can be given to the baby whenever needed, without any delays.

Since the baby’s needs are met momentarily, this decreases the time the baby spends crying. Since breast milk enables the baby to be close to the mother for longer durations, it plays an important part in psychological support and bonding as well.

It also helps the mother spare more time for both herself and her baby.

10. Eliminated problems caused by indigestion Breast milk, which is rich in all kinds of nutrients the baby needs such as protein, fat, iron and vitamins, is much easier for the body to digest.

Doctor Ülkü Tıraş, who states that almost all of breast milk is digested, says, “This reduces the frequency of stomachaches in babies encountered due to indigestion and in accompaniment to constipation, diarrhea and colic. Furthermore, the rate of incidence of gingival diseases, diabetes, iron deficiency anemia and dermatologic diseases related to rashes is much lower in babies who are breastfed”.

Do not stress over whether you’ll be able to lactate The stress over production of breast milk during the period following birth may actually prevent lactation. Doctor Ülkü Tıraş says, “Breast milk production may be delayed, especially in case of premature births. This should not cause the mother any stress. It has been shown that, regardless of how small the baby is, the breast milk of the mother will be tolerated at the time it comes in. This is because the milk of a mother with a premature baby is automatically produced in accordance with the baby’s age by weeks”.

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LALE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY FEATURE:MONISHA KAR. PHOTOGRAPHY:COURTESY OF IMPACT HUB ISTANBUL

Impact Hub Istanbul has emerged as a vital resource to a growing community of change makers. Learn how they are helping impact-driven individuals connect and collaborate through an innovative workspace design as well as content creation

P

art innovation laboratory, part incubation center, Impact Hub Istanbul is the Turkish branch of a global network that produces creative projects regarding social issues.

Founded in London in 2005, the community, which is present in five continents, in more than 70 cities with over 12.000 members, brings together leader entrepreneurs whose work is centered on the topic of social impact. Impact Hub Istanbul is also home to various events and acceleration programs that aim to promote social entrepreneurship and elucidate, spread and install social impact-driven thought in Turkey’s existing entrepreneurship ecosystem.

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Impact Hub Istanbul is a member-based co-working space and event venue that unites and empowers impact-driven individuals. The community is comprised of entrepreneurs, freelancers, techies, consultants, investors, creatives, artists and more. They offer members a unique ecosystem of resources, inspiration, and collaboration opportunities to grow their impact.

Just a quick walk from the Sanayı Metro Station in 4. Levent, Impact Hub Istanbul is housed in a completely renovated 4.5 story, 650 m2 building in the industrial Sanayı neighbourhood.

From the outside, the building retains the character of the

area with a priority on simplicity and adherence to the original design. Rather than demolishing the building, it has been meticulously restored to minimize its environmental footprint, using natural materials. You can see this commitment in its entrance and front façade, its newly configured construction elements, its structural steel fortifications added to the present reinforced concrete bearer system and its completely renovated timber roof.

Walking into Impact Hub Istanbul, you arrive on the ground level in their open and airy main event space, Jupiter. The space boasts a simple yet clever use of semi-industrial details such as lofted ceilings and exposed ductwork and brick walls. During the day, it is a flexible co-working area, and is also available for full-day and evening events. To your right is a full coffee and refreshment bar and a staircase that leads to the upper levels and additional meeting spaces, which are perfect for business meetings, small workshops and brainstorming sessions.

The workspace and its design is a response to the growing need for interdisciplinary use in co-working areas, and intended to support creativity, and inspire, nurture and cultivate new ideas. Impact Hub Istanbul has aimed to

Additionally, members have the benefit of regular networking events, and other offerings such as Monday ‘Hub-vahltı’ breakfasts, Wednesday yoga sessions and Friday happy hours to further build community. Impact Hub is also sponsoring events to provide mentorship and collaboration to budding entrepreneurs. In November 2016, they hosted an Unreasonable Labs 5-day accelerator for early/idea-stage Turkish based entrepreneurs who are tackling social and environmental problems. The lab was designed to help these entrepreneurs rapidly identify and validate the foundational assumptions of their business. In December 2016, they also hosted a two and a half day Ye! Boostcamp which was aimed at aspiring, young social entrepreneurs under the age of 30. Over the span of the Boostcamp, the entrepreneurs were guided through the ins and outs of business modeling, financial modeling and pitching skills. The event culminated with a jury pitch, the winner of the event received the Turkey Ye! Entrepreneur for 2016 award.

install a sound and inspirational social office experience that objectively places the user at the core of design and allows ergonomics in addition to disabled access. The furniture has been specially designed for Impact Hub Istanbul. The lighting and office equipment allow for various configurations which contribute to a dynamic, flexible and user-friendly workspace.

Over time and through frequent use, you can observe changes in utility areas, and rather than interfering, this allows the workspace to evolve organically.

As fellow Impact Hubber and Performer-Trainer-Social Entrepreneur, Martina Pavone says, it is ”the place to be if you want to make a difference. The place to be if you want to make an impact. The place to be if you want to create a social change for a better world.”

For more information and to apply for membership, you can visit www.impacthubist.net

LALE INTERVIEW

FEATURE: CAITLIN DIEBLER. PHOTOGRAPHY: CAITLIN DIEBLER AND CIHAN SONÜSTÜN

TALKING ABOUT A GREEN

REVOLUTION

Aylin Esma Gözübüyük is a pioneer in the organic market scene in Istanbul, but she is no stranger to an organic lifestyle and healthy living. Having spent her teen and early adult years in the United States, she drew inspiration from her mother, who owned an organic store in Connecticut. A successful Computer Scientist, she yearned for a more fulfilling career. She got back to her roots and opened her first organic store in 2010. She opened Camba Organik two years ago as a way to share this way of life with other people. Caitlin Diebler spoke to her recently

LALE INTERVIEW

L

ocated just off of the bustling Köybaşı Caddesi in Yeniköy, I easily spotted the neon purple and green letters framing the inviting storefront of Camba Organik.

The aroma of freshly baked apple pie hit my nose as I walked in the door. Organic products lined cabinets ceiling to floor, the bright colors of cold pressed juices and organic produce popped from the refrigerator, and warm, freshly baked goods lined the counter. Aylin Esma Gözübüyük was sitting at one of the two cosy tables and greeted me with a smile and “Hosgeldiniz”. Enveloping a positive energy and humble spirit, Aylin is someone you meet and immediately want to know more about. After introductions we chatted effortlessly about her journey to Camba Organik while I sipped on a cold pressed green juice.

HOW DID CAMBA ORGANIK COME TO FRUITION?

The concept of an organic market/café was nothing novel to Aylin. She spent her teenage and young adult years in New York, “My mom had a nice organic store where we lived in Connecticut. They had organic products, homemade cakes, coffees and salads. People could sit and grab something to eat after they had shopped.

Organic lifestyle and healthy living have always been standards in Aylin’s life. Camba Organik’s owner was born and raised until adolescent in Istanbul, moved to the states as a teenager only to return to Turkey in her 30’s. “It’s not just about the store. It’s about awareness for a healthy lifestyle.

I’ve always been eating local and organic and trying to be healthy.”

WHY ORGANIC? IS IT REALLY IMPORTANT?

“Becoming aware is the first thing. I’ve had people come in the store asking, ‘Do you really believe in this whole organic thing?’ You can’t force anyone to believe in it. There are preservatives, additives and chemicals everywhere and in everything. People are not aware of this. They don’t know that

The young New Yorker frequented organic stores and cafes while studying computer science at Columbia University.

Healthy living was fundamental to the humble Ivy League graduate who later flourished in her field of study for many years. “I had a well paid computer science career but I was constantly dreaming of another job that I would enjoy more, something that would be more fulfilling. I didn’t want to sit in an office and type at a computer all day. It took me years to finally make that decision.”

Turning 30 was a pivotal time of life for Aylin as she returned to her roots in Istanbul and in time, made her passion a career. “I opened my first organic store in 2010, about 6 years ago with a partner. It was great and I loved working there but it was far from my home. I decided to open Camba Organik almost 2 years ago. In this job, I get to share this way of life with other people. I work, cook, bake and juice with another friend all while socialising with customers and chatting about organic healthy living and sustainability. They learn from us, we learn from them.”

the meat they’re eating is full of hormones and antibiotics.

Apples, tomatoes and greens are sprayed with pesticides constantly and most are genetically modified. I don’t want to eat food that is tampered with, containing preservatives or additives. People should ask, ‘Why am I eating this? What is in it?’ Conventionally grown food supports a system that ruins the water supply, which ruins the air. It affects the animals.

The more people eat organic, the less they will be supporting conventional unsustainable farming practices and cruelty to animals. It’s not just about what we are eating, it’s about our environment and sustainable living practices: organic farming through sustainable agriculture ensures that the natural environment, ecology & resources are not destroyed, thus leaving a beautiful, healthy world to future generations. Also sustainability provides respect and fair treatment to farmers, animals and consumers alike.”

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LALE INTERVIEW

WHAT’S A TYPICAL DAY LIKE AT CAMBA ORGANIK?

really busy. When we cook and bake, we use what we sell in the Store. We don’t buy anything from outside. So the quiche you see today was made with what we have in the store.

We do a lot of vegan, gluten free and sugar free stuff. Fresh produce is all from the organic markets.”

OK, I’M INTERESTED IN ORGANIC LIVING, WHERE DO I EVEN START?

“It all starts with being aware, read lots of articles and be informed about what you’re eating, using on your skin and using in your home. I post a lot of articles on our website.

Start small with some fresh produce and a few natural cleaning products in your home. It’s definitely more expensive but it’s getting better. It doesn’t have to be entirely organic you can buy local foods from the markets.

People should think about paying more now instead of later.

As many sicknesses and diseases are linked to chemicals, it makes more sense to pay now for organic products than later for hospitals & doctors.

“We open at 9am and close at 8pm every day. We are a store but we’re also a café. In the summer people can sit in the garden. On Saturdays we go to the organic market at 6am, shop for 2-3 hours and are here by 9am. We start baking and making juices because there are many customers who will come in for the same juice in the morning. The juices are all cold pressed and organic. Some days are really busy and we sometimes send out 10-20 juices a day. My coworkers and I eat most of our meals at Camba. We are always making and testing new things, constantly ordering new products, restocking, doing the books, fulfilling call-in orders for people to pick up. We even deliver locally. The weekends can be

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In Turkey, if it says organic on it, it must have an organic certificate from an accredited institution. All packaged goods will have organic certificates on them. Look for the BDIH certificate on creams and shampoos. The European BIO stamp is good, so is Ceres, Ecocert and USDA. There are four big organic markets in Istanbul: The Feriköy Organic Market on Saturdays in Şişli, The Bakırköy Organic Market on Fridays, the Göztepe Organic Market on Wednesday and the Kartal Organik Market on Sundays.

Buğday Association constantly monitors them and makes sure everything is from certified organic farms. If you’re not going to do anything else, buy organic greens, fruits and vegetables.”

LALE INTERVIEW this means awareness and organic living is increasing in popularity. The stores all encourage one another. Other organic stores will send customers to us and we will send customers to them so people can access markets closer to their home. If I receive a product that sells well and is really good, I will recommend it to other organic store owners and vice versa.”

IT’S EASY TO SEE YOU’RE WORKING IN WHAT YOU’RE PASSIONATE ABOUT. WHAT ARE YOUR INTERESTS OUTSIDE OF CAMBA ORGANIK?

“My husband and I do yoga together at least twice a week.

We look forward to it. I’m always trying to do sports. We meet up with friends, go to concerts. We love jazz concerts.

Traveling is a big one for us. We love to travel and sail. Even if there’s just a little bit of time we like to go travelling. We recently went to Japan. Thailand and China are next on our list. I have family in the (United) States so I’m always traveling back to see them.”

WHAT’S THE FUTURE FOR CAMBA ORGANIK?

“Just to continue this. I love the store. Customers have really increased this second year. We’re off of a main street so it’s a lot of word of mouth. I would say about one third of our customers are international so it’s nice to always be meeting new people. When I opened the first store in 2010 with a partner there were only 2 or 3 organic markets in all of Istanbul. Now there are many. It’s a positive thing because

As the interview was coming to a close I was savouring every bite of ‘on the house’ freshly baked apple pie and moist carrot cake slices. Inspired, I glanced around the store at products I wanted to take home for myself. I thanked Aylin for her time and she generously gifted me with organic shea butter. In addition, I walked out with purchases of organic almond butter, coconut oil and dulce de leche coupled with positive energy and a deeper motivation for living naturally.

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The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s corporate chef Umut Sonat GĂźner Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ć&#x;Ä?ƾůÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x152;ĹŻÇ&#x2021; Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä?ŽžžÄ&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x161;Ć? Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ĺ?Ĺ?ĹśĹ?Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;ͲůÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;ĹŹ Ć?ŽƾĆ&#x2030; for cold winter days: this delicious elixir combines the Ç&#x20AC;Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹľĹ?Ĺś ŽĨ Ĺ?Ĺ?ĹśĹ?Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152; Í´ Ç Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?Ä?Ĺ&#x161; Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĆ?Ĺ˝ Ä&#x201A;Ĺ?Ä&#x161;Ć? Ĺ?Ĺś Ä&#x161;Ĺ?Ĺ?Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ć&#x;ŽŜ Í´ Ç Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ä&#x201A;ĹśĆ&#x;Ĺ˝Ç&#x2020;Ĺ?Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹśĆ&#x161; Ć&#x2030;Ć&#x152;Ĺ˝Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ć&#x;Ä&#x17E;Ć? ŽĨ ĹŻÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;ĹŹÍ&#x2DC; Kaptaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s soups range in price from ϹͲϭϹ d> Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ĺś Ä?Ä&#x17E; Ä&#x161;Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹ?Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ĺ?Ĺ&#x161;Ć&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ your door. %UDQFKHV LQ 0DVODN žVWLQ\H %HEHN DQG 1LĂ DQWDĂ Âż NDSWD FRP WU

Hebun Ă&#x2021;orba Evi

The next time you feel a hunger Ä?ŽžĹ?ĹśĹ? ŽŜ Ĺ?Ĺś <Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹĆ&#x201A;Ç&#x2021;Í&#x2022; Ä&#x161;ŽŜÍ&#x203A;Ć&#x161; ĹľÄ&#x201A;ĹŹÄ&#x17E; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; ĹľĹ?Ć?Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹŹÄ&#x17E; ŽĨ Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?ŜŏĹ?ĹśĹ? Ç&#x2021;ŽƾĆ&#x152; ŽŜůÇ&#x2021;

SPONSORED ARTICLE options are fancy burgers or quinoa salads. Instead, head to Hebun Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ä?Ä&#x201A; Ç&#x20AC;Ĺ?Í&#x2022; Ç Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ç&#x2021;Žƾ Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ĺś Ä?Ĺ˝Ç&#x152;Ç&#x2021; ĆľĆ&#x2030; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ ĎŽĎ­ Ä&#x161;Ĺ?ĨĨÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;ĹśĆ&#x161; Ć?ŽƾĆ&#x2030;Ć?Í&#x2022; Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĹŻ ŽĨĨÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161; Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;Ć?ŽŜÄ&#x201A;Ä?ĹŻÄ&#x17E; Ć&#x2030;Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ć? ͞ϹͲϭϰ d>ÍżÍ&#x2DC; Kurdish word that means â&#x20AC;&#x153;existence,â&#x20AC;?

Hebunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s continued presence in an increasingly trendy neighborhood is Ć&#x2030;Ć&#x152;ŽŽĨ Ć&#x2030;Ĺ˝Ć?Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ?Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E; ŽĨ Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ć? Ć?ĆľÄ?Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ć? Ç Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ĺś Ĺ?Ć&#x161; Ä?ŽžÄ&#x17E;Ć? Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ Ć?Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ç&#x20AC;Ĺ?ĹśĹ? ĆľĆ&#x2030; ĨůÄ&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC;Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ĩƾů Ć?ŽƾĆ&#x2030;Ć?Í&#x2DC; Since the eatery is open 24/7, you Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ĺś Ç&#x20AC;Ĺ?Ć?Ĺ?Ć&#x161; ,Ä&#x17E;Ä?ƾŜ Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161; Ä&#x201A;ĹśÇ&#x2021; Ć&#x161;Ĺ?ĹľÄ&#x17E; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ç&#x2021; their popular beetroot, celery and Ć&#x2030;ƾžĆ&#x2030;ĹŹĹ?Ĺś Ć?ŽƾĆ&#x2030;Ć?Í&#x2DC; 0XPKDQH &DGGHVL $ .DUDN|\

ĹŹ Ĺ?Ä&#x2022; zÄ&#x17E; 7Ä&#x2022;

ŽžÄ&#x17E; Ç Ĺ?ĹśĆ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161;Ĺ?ĹľÄ&#x17E;Í&#x2022; Ç Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x17E;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152; Ç Ä&#x17E; ĨĹ?ĹśÄ&#x161; ŽƾĆ&#x152;Ć?Ä&#x17E;ĹŻÇ&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ć? Ĺ?Ć&#x152;Ĺ˝Ç Ĺ?ĹśĹ? Ĺ&#x161;ƾŜĹ?Ć&#x152;Ç&#x2021; Ĺ?Ĺś Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ç&#x20AC;Ĺ?Ä?Ĺ?ĹśĹ?Ć&#x161;Ç&#x2021; ŽĨ dÄ&#x201A;ĹŹĆ?Ĺ?ĹľÍ&#x2022; ŽƾĆ&#x152; ĨÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x161; ĹŻÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; ĆľĆ? Ć?Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ĺ?Ĺ?Ĺ&#x161;Ć&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ ĹŹ Ĺ?Ä&#x2022; zÄ&#x17E; 7Ä&#x2022;Í&#x2DC; ,Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find soups with a low carbon footprint, as theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re prepped with Ä&#x201A;ůůͲŜÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x161;ĆľĆ&#x152;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻ Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; ĹŻĹ˝Ä?Ä&#x201A;ĹŻ Ĺ?ĹśĹ?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E;ĹśĆ&#x161;Ć? Í´ ŽŜÄ&#x17E; ŽĨ ŽƾĆ&#x152; ĨÄ&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC;Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć? Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ĺ?ĹśĹ? Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; minestrone soup featuring celery ĨĆ&#x152;Žž Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; <ĆľĆ&#x152;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x161;Ĺ˝Ĺ&#x2019;žƾĆ&#x201D; sĹ?ĹŻĹŻÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E; Ĺ?Ĺś WÄ&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x161;Ĺ?ĹŹ Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ç Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹśĆ? ĨĆ&#x152;Žž Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x2021;Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹ?Í&#x2DC; dĹ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ć?ŽƾĆ&#x2030;Ć? Ä?ŽžÄ&#x17E; Ĺ?Ĺś Ć&#x161;Ç Ĺ˝ Ć?Ĺ?Ç&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ć?Í&#x2022; Ć&#x2030;Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161; ϲ d> Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; Ďľ d>Í&#x2DC; &Ĺ˝Ć&#x152; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ˝Ć?Ä&#x17E; Ç Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ˝ Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;ĹśÍ&#x203A;Ć&#x161; Ç&#x2021;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x161; Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ĺś Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ ĹŹ Ĺ?Ä&#x2022; zÄ&#x17E; 7Ä&#x2022;Í&#x2022; Ç Ä&#x17E;Í&#x203A;Ä&#x161; Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĆ?Ĺ˝ ĹŻĹ?ĹŹÄ&#x17E; Ć&#x161;Ĺ˝ Ć&#x2030;Ĺ˝Ĺ?ĹśĆ&#x161; ŽƾĆ&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?Ć?

is no ordinary restaurant: the space Ä&#x161;ŽƾÄ?ĹŻÄ&#x17E;Ć? Ä&#x201A;Ć? Ä&#x201A; Ć?Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x161;Ć&#x161;Ĺ?ĹśĹ? ĨŽĆ&#x152; Ç Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;ĹŹĆ?Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ˝Ć&#x2030;Ć? on urban agriculture methods, and some of the greens used in their Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E;Ä?Ĺ?Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;Ć? Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĆ?Ĺ˝ Ĺ?Ć&#x152;Ĺ˝Ç Ĺś Ĺ?ŜͲĹ&#x161;ŽƾĆ?Ä&#x17E;Í&#x2DC; dĹ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ä&#x17E;Ä?ŽͲĨĆ&#x152;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x161;ĹŻÇ&#x2021; ĹŹ Ĺ?Ä&#x2022; zÄ&#x17E; 7Ä&#x2022; Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĆ?Ĺ˝ Ĺ˝Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x161; Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ć? Ć?Ä&#x17E;Ä?ŽŜÄ&#x161; ĹŻĹ˝Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ĺ?ŽŜ Ĺ?Ĺś ĹŹÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x161;ĹŻÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x152; Ä&#x201A; ĨÄ&#x17E;Ç months ago. žQ|Q &DGGHVL 7DNVLP DQG 6HGLU 6RNDN $NDWODU

Esnaf Cengiz Ä&#x17E;ĹśĹ?Ç&#x152; >ŽŏÄ&#x201A;ĹśĆ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ć?ĹŚ

KĆ&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;Ĺś ĎŽĎ°ÍŹĎłÍ&#x2022; Ä&#x17E;ĹśĹ?Ç&#x152; >ŽŏÄ&#x201A;ĹśĆ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ć?ĹŚ Ĺ?Ć? Ä&#x201A; tradesmenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find daily hot meals and desserts, but what the eatery really excels in are its soups. When the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ĹŻÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E; ĨŽƾŜÄ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152; Ä&#x17E;ĹśĹ?Ĺ?Ç&#x152; Ä&#x17E;Ç&#x2021; ĨĹ?Ć&#x152;Ć?Ć&#x161; Ĺ˝Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;ĹśÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x161; ĆľĆ&#x2030; Ć?Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ˝Ć&#x2030;Í&#x2022; Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ć?Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x161; ĹŠĆľĆ?Ć&#x161; Ć&#x161;Ç Ĺ˝ ĹŹĹ?ĹśÄ&#x161;Ć? ŽĨ soup, but today the list has grown to include 40 different recipes.

Some of the most popular soups are those featuring offal, but if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re feeling less ambitious, you can opt ĨŽĆ&#x152; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; žƾŜĹ? Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;Ĺś Ć?ŽƾĆ&#x2030;Í&#x2022; Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; ĹŻĹ?ĹŹÄ&#x17E;Ć? of which you probably wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find Ä&#x201A;ĹśÇ&#x2021;Ç Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĆ?Ä&#x17E; Ĺ?Ĺś Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E; Ä?Ĺ?Ć&#x161;Ç&#x2021;Í&#x2DC; ,Ĺ˝Ç Ä&#x17E;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Í&#x2022; barring any dietary concerns, our top recommendation for winter months has to be the fish soup. dD\GDQOÂżN 6RNDN .DVÂżPSDĂ D

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LALE MUMS â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;N KIDS

FEATURE: CIGDEM DUYSAL. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF SPACE CAMP TURKEY

A GIFT TO THE YOUTH OF THE WORLD: SPACE CAMP TURKEY Space Camp Turkey in Izmir shares the distinction of being only one of 3 camps of its kind in the world.

Thanks to founder Kaya Tuncer thousands of, children from around the globe have had the opportunity to learn more about space and science as well as each other

I

magine a place where kids from all over the world can come together to learn not just about Space but about each other. Space Camp Turkey (SCT), located in Izmir, is the epitome of a world where children from different countries can learn in peace and harmony. It turns out that Space Science is the perfect neutral subject to give young people, from different and often opposing countries, projects to work on where they are no longer identified as being from a certain country, but rather as a member of the Mars team, or the Jupiter team, or the Sun team.

Space Camp Turkey was brought to Izmir from the USA when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founder, Kaya Tuncer, was inspired to build a Space Camp in Turkey after he attended an ATAS (Association of American Turkish Scientists) meeting in Washington, D.C. in 1996 where he met with NASA engineer Ismail Akbay. Four years later, the camp was up and running in Izmir. Space Camp Turkey is one of only three camps of its kind across the globe, including the U.S. Space and Rocket Center in Huntsville, Alabama. Space Camp Turkey is located in the Aegean Free Zone, a high-tech industrial park in Izmir, operated by ESBAS (Aegean Free Trade Zone).

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LALE MUMS ‘N KIDS

“When space camp first opened in June 2000, Kaya had a plaque made to put at the entrance of Space Camp Turkey that reads, “A Gift to the Youth of the World”, Mary Tuncer, Chairman of the ESBAS Board of Directors said. “Kaya’s success as a businessman gave him opportunity to do many things. What he chose to do reveals his character and what he found important. He was dedicated to giving back to children of the world.”

Over the years, more than 200,000 students from over fifty countries have attended the camp in Izmir. Each summer, Space Camp Turkey offers 8 international sessions, and at each 6-day session, at least 5 countries are represented with 12 campers from each country.

The children are then mixed into diverse teams of 12 and assigned a project team. The official language at Space Camp is English.

programs focus on teamwork and leadership development, motivating students to pursue careers in science, math, and technology, increase English fluency, and foster global www.spacecampturkey.com/en-US/page/youth-programs Space Camp Turkey has a mission to shape future leaders.

Numerous scholarships have been provided to qualifying students to attend Space Camp, and children are encouraged to apply for these scholarships through the Global Friendship through Space Education fund.

Space Camp Turkey offers numerous programs for children between the ages of 9-15, including the international summer camp. Further, Space Camp continues to offer customized programs throughout the school year. The interactive programs aim to engage eager, young minds in space sciences, promote teamwork through space simulations, and cultivate understanding of space technology. The educational

For further information, please contact: Ms. Beth Mitchell Gencel Space Camp Turkey, Aegean Free Zone 35410 Gaziemir, Izmir / Turkey +90 232 252 35 00 beth@spacecampturkey.com

33

LALE GOURMET

TRADITIONAL PICKLES MAKE A COMEBACK There is a renewed interest in the traditional art of pickling among the health-conscious set. Yasemin Sim Esmen reports YASEMIN SIM ESMEN. PHOTOGRAPHY: BEGÜM ATAKAN

W

ith a 4000-year-old history, pickles have become one of the leading actors in Turkish cuisine. A meal composed of dried beans, rice, and pickles are a winter favourite. Recently, the traditional way of pickling is making its way back as health-conscious Turks are trying to steer away from the chemicals present in store-bought ones.

Turkish-American culinary professional Begüm Atakan’s passion for pickling has driven her to explore this field. After having studied culinary arts at Kendall College in Chicago, she co-authored the culinary book “İçindekiler” and gives workshops and private lessons on pickling (also in English.)

Her passion led her to become the leading figure in Turkey to bring back the traditional way of pickling.

She defines “pickling” as “the fermentation of vegetables in a salty environment with the aim to preserve them for consumption in later seasons.” Although the process was invented to preserve foods, pickles are also made and eaten because people enjoy the resulting flavors. Microorganisms, a certain type of bacteria, are at work in the making of pickles and they help enhance nutritional values. While preserving through freezing or preserving causes vitamin loss, it is the other way around with pickling. Atakan says, “Therefore, with the probiotics, vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, and rich fibers that they contain, pickles made the traditional way using natural products are a health source.” She says pickles can be considered “super foods” due to their nutritional value.

34

TRADITIONAL VS. STORE-BOUGHT

“Traditional pickles do not have additives. Aromas and acids, such as lemon or vinegar, were introduced later in order to enhance flavor. But in reality, the only necessary ingredient for a traditional pickle is salt,” she adds.

LALE GOURMET However, when you look in a pickle recipe, or if you study the ingredients of store-bought pickles, you realize they contain many additives. One such example is the extensive use of lemon-salt. Another difference between traditional pickles and store-bought ones is the level of saltiness. Atakan says: “The pickles we buy today are very salty. However, the reason for pickling traditionally is to be able to eat the same vegetable the next season, so they are lower in salt levels.” While artisanal, traditional pickles are not preserved or pasteurized, jarred pickles found in supermarkets are all preserved, which makes them devoid of probiotics or vitamins.

Although pickles are mainly eaten during winter months in Turkey, they can be enjoyed all throughout the year. Atakan advises eating them especially during winter months because they boost the immune system.

PICKLING AT HOME

Making your own pickles at home is a piece of cake, according to Atakan.

“If you know the tricks, it will take about 10 minutes. I prepare my brine in advance and keep it in the fridge or at room temperature. Then when I want to make pickles, all I have to do is wash and cut my vegetables,” she says.

The fermentation takes between a week and 10 days, at the end of which the pickles can be consumed.

The tricks of the trade? Since the number of ingredients is minimal, their quality is of utmost importance. The raw vegetable should be in season, if possible from a known source, grown organically, without pesticides. The salt needs to be sea or rock salt, non-iodized, raw, and free from additives. The quality of the water is also important. “I would not advise a pickle made with Istanbul’s tap water. On the other hand, unfortunately, we do not live in the mountains in Switzerland,” says Atakan with a smile. She adds: “Therefore, I would suggest using bottled water that you know and trust.”

Another important point is the temperature. “The best pickles are made between 18-22 degrees Celsius, 24 the most. If the surrounding temperature is higher, you should keep an eye on the pickles,” she says. Atakan prefers pickling during winter months due to the temperature. “You have greater control over the fermentation process because of lower temperatures. Since the process slows down, it does not become sour suddenly and you do not have loss of texture. Also, winter vegetables make enjoyable pickles thanks to their harder textures,” explains Atakan.

Pickling also comes as a healthy alternative to baking cookies with children.

At her workshops, Atakan has had some “students” under the age of 10.

“They get acquainted with vegetables, learn an interesting technique, and expend their palate. And they eat a healthy, nutritious food instead of sugary foods,” she says, adding: “It is a fun project for them.”

RECIPE

Lacto-fermented Cucumber Pickles Unlike store-bought pickles, this recipe does not contain lemon salt or vinegar and the sourness is caused by the process of lactic acid fermentation. It is rich in probiotics, minerals, and vitamins.

Ingredients 5 % brine (1 liters of water mixed with 50 gr non-iodized salt at room temperature.)

1 kg cucumbers (washed) 6-8 cloves of peeled garlic 1 lemon, sliced 5-6 stalks of dill 2-3 stalks of celery 5-6 fresh vine leaves 2-liter glass jar Place cucumbers in the jar as tightly as possible, placing between them garlic and lemon slices. At half way up the jar, place the dill and celery. Continue with the cucumbers until two fingers are left to reach the top of the jar. Cover with vine leaves. Pour in the brine, covering the vine leaves with it. Put a little weight (stone, glass, etc.) on top to make sure the vegetable stay below the brine. Make sure there is some space left between the brine and the top of the jar as the liquid in the jar will increase during fermentation. You can pour the excess water if necessary. Make sure the jar is not too tightly closed to allow for air/gas to escape. Let rest for five days to a week in 20-24 degrees Celsius.

During this time, the brine will get darker and the cucumbers will change both color and texture. The flavor of aromatizing herbs will be infused into the brine. Your pickles will be ready when salt water is replaced by savory brine. Keep in the refrigerator.

LALE CITY

FEATURE: MONICA FRITZ. PHOTOGRAPHY: CULINARY BACKSTREETS

TELLING THE STORY OF A CITY THROUGH ITS FOOD Culinary Backstreet co-founders Ansel Mullins and Yigal Schleifer

Culinary Backstreets celebrates Istanbul’s traditional eateries. Monica Fritz talked with cofounder Yigal Schleifer about this aspect of the city’s food scene and the people behind it

T

he Culinary Backstreets blog and books were the first of their kind in Istanbul. Besides being beautifully written, they are also extremely well researched guides to Istanbul’s very fast growing food scene, concentrating on the more traditional and historical eateries.

What are your guidelines for the articles and what are your interests in the culinary scene here?

Although Culinary Backstreets is a site devoted to food, our primary interest in really in people: the Ustas making the food and their stories. These are the unsung heroes who are sometimes forgotten or taken for granted at home. By publishing the stories of our local heroes, visiting them on culinary tours, or directly fundraising for them when they are in need, we attempt to honor their work and their essential role in maintaining the fabric of the city. Our purpose is twofold. Yes, we want to get travelers to some good places to eat. But we also want to make sure that some of these spots and the artisans making food there find a new audience and get the recognition and support they deserve. They are holding back the tide of globalised sameness, which is not easy work – even if it’s done unknowingly. But we believe that every meal counts and, with the help of our audience, they will add up.

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How did you start and when? What are your backgrounds and how did you end up in Turkey?

Culinary Backstreets originally started as the blog Istanbul Eats, which we launched in 2009. At the time, we recognised a serious informational void on our beloved subject of dining in Istanbul, so we decided to do something about it. We started Istanbul Eats in order widen the perspective of dining in Istanbul and share our favorite lesser-known spots with others. In 2012 we expanded the site to include other cities around the world, calling it “Culinary Backstreets.”

Ansel (Ansel Mullins, co-founder of Culinary Backstreets) is a native Chicagoan and lived in Istanbul from 2001 until just a few months ago, when he and his family relocated to Lisbon, Portugal. To support his writing habit, he has restored old homes, tended bar, sold mobile phones and taught physical education in a kindergarten. Yigal currently resides in Washington, DC. Between 2002 and 2010 he lived in Istanbul, where he worked as a correspondent for the Christian Science Monitor, Eurasianet and the English-language service of the German Press Agency (DPA).

Your story telling is very personal, often with a great sense of humor. It reflects a love for the multi ethnicity found in Istanbul’s back street eateries. You often bring out the sweetness of a situation and it reminds me of the Turkey I knew years ago. Does this sweetness still exist and can

Mr. Levon and his wife, who cooks

you give me an example of a strong or interesting personality behind the food, that has made an impression on you?

That sweetness and generosity of spirit is exactly what drew us to Istanbul’s food scene from the start. It’s really one of the unique aspects of Istanbul’s culinary life. Despite all the changes that have taken place in the city, we believe that sweetness still exists and can be found throughout Istanbul.

One of the sweetest characters we know if Mr. Levon from Mutfak Dili, a small esnaf lokanta serving the hardware sellers of the Perşembe Pazarı. We had written about the place in the early days of Istanbul Eats and then included it in the first edition of our book. During the book’s launch party in Beyoğlu, Mr. Levon made a surprise guest appearance to just say ‘thank you’ for being included and to let us know what a difference being mentioned on our blog made for his business, which was now getting Russian and Japanese visitors along with the regular crowd of ball bearing sellers. It was a very touching – and, yes, sweet – moment, actually.

Food tours are now very popular now, what makes CB different? Who conducts your walks?

It really goes back to what talked about in the beginning, which is the focus on the people making the food, rather than the food itself, and those people’s stories. We believe in telling the story of a city or of a certain neighbourhood through its food and food makers and bringing a more narrative approach to the table. We really want our tours to act as a kind of edible orientation to the city people are visiting. To make that happen, we work with licensed guides who share this kind of approach and who are passionate about the city they are working in and eager to explore its “Culinary Backstreets” and lead other to them.

To join on a culinary walking tour and for more information, visit: culinarybackstreets.com or @IstanbulEats on Facebook

What is the authentic cuisine of Istanbul as opposed to the rest of Turkey?

That’s a question that’s becoming increasingly harder to answer. Purists might say that Istanbul’s “authentic” cuisine can be found on the meze tray of old-school meyhanes, which are more influenced by the food of the Aegean and emphasize fish over meat. But as time has passed and Istanbul’s character has shifted with the arrival of different groups from other parts of the country, it really is more difficult to talk about Istanbul’s authentic cuisine. Grilled meat is something of an import from Turkey’s east, but is there anything more Beyoğlu than a night of kebab and rakı at one of the area’s classic ocakbasis?

What is your favorite street food? Where is your favourite market?

Again, a really hard question to answer! There’s so much to choose from! We’re fans of numerous street foods (and even created a series of “baseball cards” celebrating some of our favorite street food Ustas), but we definitely have a soft spot for one of the rarer birds out there: the roving liver sandwich seller. Ciğerci Mustafa Amca (Uncle Mustafa the liver (ciğer) seller) is a beloved fixture in the hardware district near the Golden Horn. One of the last roving liver sandwich vendors around, Mustafa still uses the old-fashioned lanternshaped display case that is unique to the liver trade. There’s something incredibly evocative and distinctly Istanbul about what he does.

Ciğerci Mustafa Amca

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THE SOUL OF THE STEPPE The French photographer Paul Veysseyre has devoted decades to documenting Turkey. these striking images from the 1970s and 1980s – and his companions’ vivid memories – are a hymn to Anatolia, the wild beauty of the land, the dignity of its people, the simple ‘genius’ of their dwellings

Falling in love with ‘la Turquie profonde’

P

aul Veysseyre worked at the Gallo-Roman Museum of SaintRomain-en-Gal in Lyon for some 28 years as “attaché de conservation du patrimoine”.

His main occupation was thoroughly documenting mosaics and wall-paintings in the museum’s collections, but he has also dedicated decades to taking black and white photographs of Turkey.

His first volume, Istanbul, Gateway of Happiness, focused on the old capital and cultural centre of the Turkish domains, and covered 20 years or so.

Paul perceives Anatolia: Transient Lives as the second in a trilogy on his life’s work, documenting the passage of time and transient lives in Turkey and the region over a period of 40 years. He is currently working on a third volume, Djahânnâma, covering the Balkans, Turkey, the Caucasus, Iran and Central Asia, which is due out in 2017.

For this volume, Veysseyre returned to Turkey time and again from his base in Lyon to capture the essence of the Anatolian countryside. “I sought to gain a depth of knowledge and experience of just a few places rather than a superficial ‘visitor’s view’ in many colours.”

How to capture all those years spent in Turkey? The first and last

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photos were in his mind from the very first day. The portrait of the old couple from the book’s cover (far right) is his signature piece.

“It summarises what I feel about Anatolian folk: the unassuming dignity, the mutual respect between individuals, the stillness and depth of their connection to the earth, to each other.”

The last picture in the book is of snowy wastes on the road from Malatya to Kayseri (perhaps even bleaker than the photograph of the Kağni Katan Pass above). The subject is a local villager who hitched a lift with Paul and travelled 40–50km back to his village. He asked to be put down in the middle of the drifting snow blizzard, then slowly walked away into an unfathomable nothingness towards a settlement whose location only he knew.

Only once did he deflect from his course to avoid an unseen obstacle far away. Paul watched him until he finally disappeared in a mist of snow. That is the final statement of the book.

The book’s 156 black and white photos are a tiny sample of the thousands he shot in Anatolia over four decades. His archive totals more than 50,000 pictures in all, most of them taken in Turkey. “There is consistency among the pictures taken over 40 years,” says Paul. Consistency in the subject matter, the flow of people, the type of telling image he always seeks.

Maggie Quigley Pınar

January–February 2017

SPONSORED FEATURE LALE SPECIAL OFFER Left Lorries stuck in the snow on the Kağnı Katan Pass Ağrı, February 1986 Below left Hay in an ox-cart between Refahiye and Zaraw Sivas, August 1987

IWI book and CORNUCOPIA Cornucopia Cornucopia Magazine is magazine offer 55

Order Anatolia: Transient Lives (Editions Djahânnâma, Euro 50) plus a free copy of Cornucopia No 48, featuring the Istanbul photographs of Paul Veysseyre, and a Rıfat Özbek tote bag, all for TL150 post-free worldwide, from cornucopia.net/iwi-offer January–February 2017

Turkey for Connoisseurs

Issue 55 2017

available from Robinson Crusoe, Denizler, Patika, Homer, Eren, Pandora, D&R and other good bookshops (TL40). For special back-issue-collection offers, visit cornucopia.net/store/offer/ collectors-pack

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39

LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY: CAITLIN DIEBLER

BOHEMIAN CİHANGİR Just off of bustling Istiklal Street is the hipster neighbourhood of Cihangir.

It is home to a mix of artists, intellectuals, actors, and many, many cats.

Caitlin Diebler spends a Saturday absorbing its vibe and checking out its thriving coffee and kahvaltı scene and window shopping at its trendy boutiques

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD CIHANGIR

It’s Saturday and the cobblestone streets are slowly starting to fill. They were abandoned until well after one o’clock in the afternoon. I sit outside at Parisian-like table and chairs, sipping winter tea at 1kahve as I people-watch the busy Cihangir side street. An older man wearing a fedora carries a cigarette, mumbling to himself as he walks. Small dogs wearing sweaters proudly stroll the sidewalks with their owners. Three young men sip espresso, conversing loudly in English with strong British accents. A woman in her early twenties, flaunting magenta colored locks, walks out of the busy eclectic kuaför across the street. Feeling inspiration in the air, I sit down to collect my observations and thoughts of this special place called, Cihangir.

A PLACE FOR ALL PEOPLE

Modern day Cihangir is known to be the melting pot of Istanbul, possessing cosmopolitan qualities and committing to a bohemian vibe. Vine covered 19th century apartment buildings frame curved alleys decorated with one of a kind cafes, restaurants, museums and shops; these are all special, but what truly characterizes Cihangir is the people. The district hosts equal quantities of Turks and foreigners alike, thus validating its ‘east meets west’ description. Conservative residents are friendly to progressive minded neighbors and family run cafes serve freshly arrived expats. Boutique storeowners are proud of their multicultural clientele and the community welcomes love of all kinds.

oo Take a glimpse into the life of another Turkish novelist, Orhan Kemal, at Orhan Kemal Museum; a small museum paying tribute to the beloved writer. oo Art galleries are plentiful in Cihangir. Next to Pamuk’s Museum of Innocence is REM Artspace, where contemporary pieces and projects from young artists are on display. oo Walk past Irfan Yavru’s art studio and you’ll see him painting. The artist and philosopher paints large portrait canvases of Ottoman men, with oils and acrylics. oo Take a yoga class at Cihangir Yoga; their motto is ‘yoga for everyone’. The studio has English-speaking instructors and several 10TL classes throughout the week.

EXPERIENCE HISTORY

In Istanbul, Ottoman history has a way of sticking around.

Cihangir is no exception. The neighborhood shares its name with the most prominent building in the area, Cihangir mosque. The original mosque was built in the 16th century, in memory of the Ottoman Prince named Cihangir, who was a lover of the arts and frequenter of the area. The mosque and other high places in the area offer unexpected angles and matchless views of the Bosphorus strait. One may wonder if the exact silhouettes were available during the Ottoman and Byzantine times.

FIND INSPIRATION

Ask anyone and they’ll tell you that Cihangir is a watering hole for artists and intellectuals. It’s a place of inspiration where new ideas are found. Rumor has it; actors and actresses can be spotted reading scripts on sidewalk patios every afternoon.

Cihangir’s most famous resident, author and Nobel Prize recipient Orhan Pamuk, opened the Museum of Innocence not far from the center of Cihangir in 2012, bringing his novel to life. The 2014 European Museum of the Year consists of five floors; more than one thousand objects are displayed, representing each chapter of the novel in chronological order.

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LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD

LEAVE WITH SOMETHING UNIQUE

Cihangir is a labyrinth with ambiguous boundaries and hidden corners, but it’s there you’ll find antique stores overflowing with vintage treasures. Cihangir Antik has an impressive collection of vintage light fixtures displayed in their shop window. Down the same small street, AC Line sells feminine vintage jewelry and a collection of French tea sets. If you’re not into antiques, stop by Amorf and purchase handmade products from olive and walnut trees. The wood shop has goods ranging from kitchen utensils to dining room tables and chairs.

Don’t shop in Cihangir for something you can buy at Zara or Bershka. Boutique stores selling unique fashion pieces seem to pop up on every corner; score international threads at the boutique, Vanilya.

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Let the owner of Opus 3A, Kerem, guide you around the extensive collection of music at one of the only stand-alone music shops in the region. Grab a bottle of wine to take home and drink while listening to your newly purchased CD. La Cave sells fine wine from around the globe.

LALE NEIGHBOURHOOD GO FOR KAHVALTI

It goes without saying that Turks know how to do brunch. If there’s a kahvaltı goldmine in Istanbul, it’s Cihangir. Family owned Van Kahvaltı Evi is the most popular breakfast spot in the neighborhood and I’ll tell you, it lives up to the hype.

Youngest working family member, Ercan, served my husband and I unlimited chai at a wooden table covered in Turkish breakfast plates. We added menemen and an omlet to the “supreme kahvaltı” order, totaling 60TL. Give the famous breakfast house a try during the week to avoid crowds or cross the street to notorious Café Firuz if the weekend line is too long.

Rose Marine and Journey offer wide menus and serve as popular hang out spots in the evening. Or, if you’d rather cook healthy at home, Bayla Organik sells fresh organic produce, natural products and homemade baked goods.

MAKE YOUR WAY TO CIHANGIR TRY THE COFFEE

In Cihangir, coffee pours like water. Centrally located Kronotop is always busy and imports coffee beans from all over the world. Close by is hipster coffee shop, Let’s Make Coffee, where there is plenty of seating and asking for decaf would be blasphemy. Take your laptop to do some work at 1kahve, the spot I frequently write at, or meet up with friends at Tea or Coffee across the street. Not Just Coffee is located in a quieter part and greets you with a cheerful turquoise exterior. The smell of freshly brewed coffee is Cihangir’s perfume.

Cihangir is a chameleon; it’s breakfast heaven for the foodie and caffeine paradise for the coffee addict. It’s an antique playground for the vintage queen, welcoming grounds for the foreigner and place of inspiration for the aspiring artist.

Still not convinced that Cihangir is the perfect place for the expat to spend a lazy brunch or find residence? The Guardian once named Cihangir one of the five best places to live in the world.

This Istanbul gem will leave you with: a shopping bag of treasures, a mind filled with inspiration, an empty coffee cup, a smile from good company and of course, a full stomach. A visit to Cihangir is highly recommended; although you don’t really visit Cihangir, Cihangir visits you.

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LALE TRAVEL

FEATURE: LALE GEDIK. PHOTOGRAPHY: LINDA CALDWELL, LALE GEDIK, NANCY HABBAS CLAUDIA TURGUT

FROZEN IN TIME - OF MOUNTAIN

O

ur little group from the Photo Club of Istanbul was prepared for everything except snow when we visited the Bolu region at the beginning of November. Three lakes and three towns in three days turned out to be a whirlwind of pine trees, seemingly bottomless lakes, old Ottoman houses, mountaintop villages and amazing flora and fauna with many thanks to accomplished photographer Murat Düzyol, our guide and leader throughout this thoroughly enjoyable photographic adventure.

Bolu is just a couple of hours from Istanbul on the TEM towards Ankara. If you start off early you will be in time to catch great light once you are off the main stretch at Akyazı heading in the direction of Taşkesti.

SÜNNET GÖLÜ

Further on, the road meanders through rolling hills and beautiful countryside all the way to Sünnet Gölü, the first lake on our itinerary. This is where we stayed the night, at the only hotel in this secluded corner, the Mudurnu Doğal Yaşam Hotel. Just as we arrived, the snow started coming down in full force. Far from stopping us, the sudden change in weather prompted us to rush out to capture some magical scenes. By this time the snow had turned everything into a winter wonderland. The owner of the hotel took us on a sightseeing tour and after an exhilarating drive we clambered up hills for a high vantage point to see the lake in all its glory.

We also visited a very cold and rather bleak mountain village of the same name where we were met with turkeys, cows, even more snow and amazing sunset vistas.

Left: Sünnet Gölü on Arrival - Lale Gedik Middle Right: Sünnet Gölü and Hotel - Lale Gedik Bottom Right: Nancy Habbas – Roadside Splendour

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LALE TRAVEL

LAKES AND OTTOMAN TOWNS The forests, lakes and mountains of Turkey’s Bolu region make it a photographer’s dream.

Lale Gedik and members of Photo Club Istanbul along with National Geographic Photographer Murat Düzyol give us a view into this captivating place Linda Caldwell - The Enchanted Forest

SÜLÜKLÜGÖL

The itinerary for our second day had Sülüklü Göl as our first stop but a signpost along the way tempted us into doing a detour to another lake, Çubuk Gölü. What luck! After the previous day’s snow, the air was crisp and still; and visibility was unbelievable. The lake had turned into a reflective pool, mirroring the surrounding hills still resplendent in all their autumnal glory. And on the shore of the lake we were totally taken back by the appearance of half a dozen windmills, which we later learned had been specially built for a movie location setting.

Our actual destination, Sülüklü Göl, rather unattractively named Leech Lake would have been inaccessible if we hadn’t been travelling with a sturdy old Land Rover. We would never had made it up to this mountain lake because snow had blocked the roads. Covered in snow and leaves, this was more of a track than a road, but we were rewarded by a truly enchanted scene once we got there.

It was like we had stumbled on a hidden winter wonderland.

This lake was actually formed in the early 18th century when tectonic movements created a massive landslide, thus resulting in a 35 meter deep depression to be later filled with water from underground springs and nearby creeks. And in this rare ecosystem exactly 183 fir, pine and oak trees within the sinkhole have remained upright for over 300 years. This bizarre occurrence in nature is what makes the lake so utterly fairytale-like.

Middle Right: Linda Caldwell - Sünnet Village Bottom Right: Linda Caldwell – Greetings

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Participating in this adventure were: Linda Caldwell : www.delikizinyeri.wordpress.com Nancy Habbas : www.instagram.com/behindalens/ Lale Gedik : www.instagram.com/lalegedik/ Claudia Turgut : www.instagram.com/seasonalcookinturkey/ With Murat Düzyol : www.instagram.com/istanbul_foto_safari/

MUDURNU

Reluctantly, we had to leave this other worldly spot as we had more on the agenda for the day. So onwards we went to Mudurnu, where we would stop for the night. Named after the Byzantine princess, Modrene, today’s Mudurnu recalls times of the Ottomans with its charming houses. We wandered the streets admiring the local handicrafts and were lucky enough to gather information on the town’s history from the cultural society’s charming director. We sampled the local cuisine at our lovely authentic hotel, Yarışkaşı Konağı, where we also enjoyed a great view of dusk settling over the town. It seems that many of these Ottoman mansions have been restored to their full glory and are operating as guesthouses.

Top Right: Nancy Habbas - Mirror Lake – Çubuk Gölü, Middle Left: Nancy Habbas - Çubuk Gölü Windmills, Middle Right: Nancy Habbas – Windmill Detail Bottom Left: Linda Caldwell – Approach to Winter Wonderland, Bottom Right: Lale Gedik – Lost in Time

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Lale Gedik – Mountaintop Village at Dusk

GÖYNÜK / TARAKLI

The last day of our trip covered two more charming Ottoman towns, Göynük and Taraklı. Taraklı is a designated cittaslow part of the slow town movement which encompasses sustainability, retaining the soul and character of the place, its spirit and its food. Much closer than Safranbolu, both towns have preserved the architecture of bygone eras with their wood stained windows and doors and whitewashed walls, with building regulations ensuring that there is nothing to distract from the authenticity of the place.

It was a pleasure to stroll through the streets of these wellkept towns. And after sampling the local cuisine, buying bread and varieties of dried beans and fruit as well as local handicrafts along the cobblestoned streets, we were ready to hit the road back to the big city.

Three days full to the brim with local flavor, photographic companionship, amazing, utterly captivating views and quite a bit of both snow and sun had come to an end all too soon.

Top: Claudia Turgut – Mudurnu Top Right: Claudia Turgut – Old Ottoman House Bottom Right: Claudia Turgut – On the Street Left: Claudia Turgut – Mudurnu Interior

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LALE ARCHITECTURE

FEATURE: YASEMIN SIM ESMEN. PHOTOGRAPHY: MONISHA KAR

LUXURY OTTOMAN-ERA APARTMENT

IN A LONG-FORGOTTEN NEIGHBOURHOOD city due to the developing commerce and finance sectors.

The apartment’s architecture reflects the changing role of women in the progressive Ottoman family and blends in living quarters for domestic help.

NOT A USUAL SIGHT

At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, freestanding tall apartments, built on one or more blocks in the city center were not commonplace. This was mainly because they required greater investment. Though rare, samples of such apartment buildings can be found in the then-developing neighborhoods and might have courtyards or gardens and shops at entrance floors. Arif Paşa Apartment is a case in point, with a pleasant courtyard and shops facing both inside the courtyard and on the side streets.

Not quite where you would expect an architectural hidden gem, Arif Paşa Apartmanı, built in 1902 is a 7-storey luxury apartment in Elmadağ, a developing area that has been home to many auto shops. The apartment was innovative for its time with its design and amenities, reflecting the changing life-style of that era. Yasemin Sim Esmen sheds light on this landmark

S

omehow quiet, lined with old-style grocers, barbers, and a home-food restaurant serving workers from auto shops from further down, Elmadağ Caddesi seems to have remained in the 70s. It is not-that-glamorous hill of a street and yet, it is home to one of the greatest examples of residential architecture in late-Ottoman times.

Arif Paşa Apartmanı, otherwise known as “Sarıcazade Abdullah ve Osman Bey Apartmanı” is a beautiful 7-storey apartment building that was built in 1902 by the renowned architect Constantin Pappa. Pappa was a Greek-Ottoman architect who studied architecture in Ecole des Beaux Arts in France. Symmetry and axial layout that are design rules of the Beaux Arts style, with which the architect integrated traditional patterns of Ottoman architecture, can be seen in Pappa’s works.

The patron of the apartment, Arif Paşa, was Sultan Abdülhamid the Second’s doctor. When he asked Pappa to build Arif Paşa Apartmanı, he did so with the intention of renting the apartments to high-income clientele who were adopting a more western way of living. Unlike its examples in the west that were built for working-class families, apartment buildings in Istanbul were developed for middle and higher income classes as these needed new residences inside the

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The building is situated in the main axe from Beyoğlu to Şişli.

At the time of construction, Beyoğlu was home to many Westerners and non-Muslim minorities. It was the business center of Istanbul and reflected the western lifestyle with its restaurants, cafes, theaters which attracted the fascination of many western-educated progressive Turks. The building was designed to face Taksim Square and Talimhane (which was empty back then), towards Beyoğlu. It stands on 818 m2 of land (with a total of 6100m2 closed space) and stands at a height of 31.6m. Its sheer size, along with the amenities at the disposal of both residential and commercial spaces, makes the building the first of its kind.

The change in the life-style of urban, upper-class, progressive families can also be seen in the layout of the apartment building itself. Unlike the traditional Ottoman residences, Arif Paşa Apartment opens up straight to the streets and the courtyard. The building has four main entrances. Two of these are on the side streets and two are in the front, through the courtyard.

THE LIFESTYLE OF THE UPPER-CLASS There are five apartments on each floor of the building that rises on two blocks. The three apartments facing the front yard are larger than those two facing the side streets. The number of apartments was kept low and the amenities were well thought of to form luxurious units to please the targeted higher-end clientele. The floors are connected by two main stairs which are quite impressive with their spiral form and marble craftsmanship. A separate set of service

LALE ARCHITECTURE

stairs, entrances, and restrooms were designed for domestic help. Three service stairs conveniently open either directly to the kitchens or to corridors close to the kitchens. These staircases also lead to bedrooms for domestic help, a laundry room, drying terrace, and the attic.

Rooms and zones that served different functions, such as sleeping, daily activities, entertaining, cooking, and hygiene, started developing in the apartments of this period, replacing multi-purpose rooms in traditional residences. Arif Paşa Apartment is a clear example to this. The spaces facing the front (Elmadağ Caddesi and the courtyard) are designed to be larger than the spaces facing the back or side streets and are much more ornate. This suggests that the rooms in the front are geared towards daily activities and entertaining purposes, while the ones in the back are for sleeping, cooking, etc.

The building is also innovative in its structural composition.

The load-bearing system of the stone building is designed very rationally. The architect used cast iron columns to support the tall structure. Such metal load-bearing elements had been employed in buildings since the 19th century mainly in military or industrial edifices. This apartment building is one of the first residential buildings to employ this technique.

The building still belongs to the family of Arif Paşa; none of the apartments was ever sold. The tenants, among which was famous ceramist Füreya Koral, seem to love living there. In fact, it is almost impossible to find an apartment for rent in the building since the present tenants do not want to leave. Some residents have been there for more than 20 years. There are also a traditional grocery store, a men’s barber, a locksmith, a traditional coffee house, and a clothing store that is sometimes open. Residential or commercial, all the tenants seem to know each other and have some sort of a comradeship.

The building looks majestic yet run down from the outside. It is missing the iron doors opening to the courtyard from Elmadağ Caddesi (the main entrance) and the courtyard itself looks like it could use some maintenance. Some apartments look empty from the outside. No alterations were made to the building except for switching the heating from coal to natural gas. Yet, since most tenants are either artists or are artistically minded, most of the original decorations on the walls and ceilings have been preserved.

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LALE EVENTS OUTDOOR SKATING, AND LESSON FROM A PRO!

will be happy to provide tips and advice to anyone who would like to learn some cool moves or improve their technique.

Situated close to Istanbul’s dynamic business centre of Maslak, UNIQ hosts an enormous 1,000sqm, professional standard ice skating rink – the first open-air rink in Istanbul, which only opened in December 2015. This amazing ice rink is a facility to rival that of London or New York.

So whether you are an expert keen to show off your gliding prowess or a complete beginner who would just like a fun morning learning a new skill among friends, come and enjoy a sporty morning you won’t forget in a hurry. Afterwards, we will go for some refreshments and a catch up together, or you can continue skating.

We regret that children are not welcome on this occasion.

Time to try something a little bit different! Winter is starting and therefore we should have some winter fun. Ice skating has been a hugely popular winter sport throughout the world ever since its invention 3,000 years ago in Finland. So why not celebrate the winter sports season by coming and joining IWI ladies at Turkey’s largest outdoor ice rink, UNIQ Winter Tales in Istanbul?

We are privileged to have Turkey’s first-ever fully qualified figure skating coach as a member of the IWI. Gabriele Sailer

CALLIGRAPHY WORKSHOP

Date

Wednesday, January 11

Time

11.00am-12.30pm

Location

Uniq Maslak

Cost

Basic members: 30 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 30 TL; Guests: 30 TL

Participants

Maximum 15

Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, January 8 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

Aesthetics, patience and imagination are key characteristics of Ottoman-Turkish calligraphy. Calligraphy was a part of the Ottoman Book Arts together with the Ottoman miniature painting, illumination (tezhip), bookbinding (cilt) and paper marbling (ebru).

Led by a local expert artist, for all levels of interest and experience, this workshop will provide oo Hands-on instruction on how to write in calligraphy oo An opportunity to experience calligraphy writing, a spiritual geometry produced with materials. oo Interaction with the local artist to learn about his/her life involving his art oo Familiarity with the history and tradition of this art

Calligraphy (from Greek, meaning “beautiful writing”) is the art of fine handwriting. The term may refer to letters, words, pages, or even whole documents to which aesthetic principles and skilled penmanship have been applied. In Islamic culture, calligraphic writing is accomplished by using a broad-edged reed, quill, or nib pen held at a slant.

In a country where Islam is practiced, calligraphy is of great importance since depictions of humans and animals are not allowed. The copying of the Koran is considered a religious act and Islamic calligraphy is much esteemed because of its religious associations. Major styles of script are Kufi, a formal style with an angular character, Sülüs, a cursive flowing script written with rounded letters, Divani, generally used for writing the decrees, and Talik. These scripts are also classified in themselves according to the places that they are used or their sizes.

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The workshop price includes all equipment and materials needed to make your own artwork, as well as complementary tea and coffee. Commentary and English translation services will be provided by our IWI partner by Serif Yenen.

Date

Friday, January 20

Time

10.30am – 12.30pm

Location

Cihangir, location details to be provide to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 80 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 70 TL; Guests: 90 TL

Participants

Minimum: 6, Maximum: 12

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Tuesday, January 17

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

LALE EVENTS TURKISH HOME COOKING – ESPECIALLY FOR NEWCOMERS

wonderful opportunity to learn about some of the fruit and vegetables that may seem unfamiliar, and to understand how to prepare dishes that you may have seen on offer in restaurants.

In the comfort of Ayse’s beautiful home, amongst IWI members, we offer you the chance to learn and ask questions to help you explore food preparation here in Istanbul. After preparing the dishes together, we will sit down to enjoy lunch.

Turkish Cooking at home – our dishes oo Lentil soup oo İmam Bayildi (Smoked eggplant purée) oo Taş Kebap (Lamb Stew) oo Beans in Olive Oil (Barbunya) oo Pomegranate Salad oo Quince Dessert with clotted cream

Bring along a good appetite!

Turkish cuisine is known to be amongst the world’s finest, having originated with the Turks in the plains of Mongolia, journeyed with them to Anatolia, and subsequently been influenced by all parts of the Ottoman empire. Turkey is blessed with richly diverse growing environments, and is surrounded by three different seas, resulting in an enormous variety of fresh produce that changes with the seasons and is available in colourful markets throughout our city.

The IWI welcomes you to prepare a Turkish meal using fresh seasonal ingredients and traditional techniques. This is a

Date

Wednesday, January 18

Time

10.00am – 2.30pm

Location

Ayşe’s home in Yeniköy (details to be provided to participants)

Cost

Basic members: 120 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 110 TL; Guests: 130 TL

Participants

Minimum: 10, Maximum: 14

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday, January 15

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATION LUNCH Menu

The iconic Shangri-La Bosphorus hotel brings a traditional celebration of the Chinese New Year right to us in Istanbul.

China’s most important annual festival is celebrated on the new moon day according to the lunar calendar, and this event will welcome in the Year of the Rooster.

The Shangri-La, possibly the best place in our city for Far Eastern food, is proposing our guests a sumptuous New Year menu, to take us on an epic journey with flavours exclusive to China, combining Canton and Sichuan regions’ most delicious delicacies.

Join us for a New year with a difference, and find out if you are a Rooster!

oo Shredded duck salad with cucumber and black fungus in XO sauce oo Deep Fried Shrımp wonton oo “Lo Hei” Salmon Salmon “sashimi” with shredded fruits, vegetables and assorted dressings oo Minced chicken and sweet corn soup with egg white oo Braised seafood with ginger and spring onion in clay pot oo Pan-fried diced beef with black pepper sauce oo Dry-braised sliced chicken with black bean and shallot in clay pot oo Wok-Fried homemade bean curd filled with shrimp and chicken paste oo Sichuan style braised eggplant with minced beef and spicy sauce in clay pot oo Fried rice with minced beef, spring onion and lettuce oo Seasonal cut fruit platter Date

Tuesday, February 7

Time

12.00pm

Location

Shangri-La Bosphorus, Beşiktaş

Cost

Basic members: 160 TL Classic; Business and Honorary members: 150TL; Guests: 175TL

Participants

Minimum: 5, Maximum: 50

Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, February 4 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS A CULINARY TOUR ACROSS CONTINENTS

We’ll explore both the European and Asian sides of Istanbul and learn the art of brewing Turkish coffee. On this tour, we’ll take in the places that locals cherish for a foodie experience of daily life which you’ll want to return to again and again. We will discover hidden hans and small stores with the best local food – places that you might never find on your own.

The tour will visit Eminönü and Sirkeci, and then take the Marmaray to explore Üsküdar and Kadiköy. We will have food tastings at places ranging from the best-known to the most hidden, local and ethnic eateries, and small informal restaurants. Our guide will share his “off-the-beaten-path” look at life in Istanbul with a little bit of history, culture, architecture, and local experiences.

We will start and end on the European side, and use public transport (please bring your Istanbul Kart and small change for a dolmuş!)

Istanbul is one of the most unique cities in the world, based on two continents and with a rich history and incredible cultural diversity. The food culture reflects this diversity, with each of the different ethnic groups of the Ottoman Empire having added its own culinary traditions. Many foods are still being hand-produced by artisans using old recipes and techniques. The city is internationally famous for its cuisine, and with an expert guide we will undertake an in-depth exploration. Come along with an empty stomach and an open mind to enjoy more than 15 delicious tastings, including traditional mezes, regional dishes and seasonal street food.

Date

Thursday, February 9

Time

10.00am – 3.30pm (option to leave from Kadiköy at 2.00pm)

Location

Starting from Eminönü – details to be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 160TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 150TL; Guests: 175TL

Participants Minimum: 6, Maximum: 12 Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Monday, February 6 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

SIRKECI: SMALL MUSEUMS AND MORE offices form a wonderful backdrop to the old photographs and curious machines, bathed in streams of light.

We walk on down the street, noticing the tomb of several Ottoman Princes, a small and interesting shrine which could easily be missed as you pass by. We will then break for a hot Turkish coffee or tea and a sweet at a traditional pudding shop before continuing up to the beautiful Gulhane Park.

In the park we will visit the Alay Kosku, now the Tanpinar Museum dedicated to Turkish literature and playing host to frequent poetry readings and other literary events. The 16th century building, used as a library, has a round room covered with frescos and a lovely view through its tall windows into the Park below.

Sirkeci is one of Istanbul’s oldest quarters, and with its several interesting small museums it makes an ideal winter walking tour. We will visit intriguing places that you might not even have known existed, and stop in historical places for coffee and lunch.

We will start by visiting the Turkish Republic’s first bank, founded by Kemal Ataturk; the impressive building now exhibits oil paintings owned by previous bank directors, as well as objects and machines linked to stories of the new, post-Ottoman, economy.

Leaving the 18th century building onto a slightly newer one, to visit the very elegant Post Office museum, completed in 1909. It’s powerful art nouveau staircase and high ceilinged

52

We will finish the walk with lunch in the Sirkeci train station, the home of the terminus of the Orient Express.

Please note that museum visits will be self-guided.

Date

Wednesday, February 15

Time

10.00am – 2.00pm

Location

Details to be provided to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 70 TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 65 TL; Guests: 80 TL

Participants

Minimum: 7, Maximum: 12

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Sunday February 12

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

LALE EVENTS KOREAN COOKING CLASS to share her love of cooking. Passionate about her native country, Sujin looks forward to introducing us to a less wellknown cuisine and the tradition of her culture.

The IWI is pleased to offer a very different cookery experience – introducing the cuisine of Korea.

We will meet to cook together in the home of one of our Members, Sujin, in the vibrant multi-cultural district of Cihangir. Three different dishes will be prepared by the group, after which we will sit down to enjoy sharing lunch together.

Our hostess for this event, Sujin Kim, grew up in Seoul, Korea. She then started her international life in Italy, where she spent 12 years and studied Art, before marrying and moving to Vienna. A recent newcomer to Turkey and the IWI, she is keen to meet other international women here and

Menu oo Bulgogi - One of Korea’s most popular beef dishes, marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, sesame oil, black papaw, garlic, onions oo Japchae - Korean noodle dish with sweet potato noodle and vegetables. oo Mandu - Korean dumplings oo Haemul Pajeon - Seafood and Green onion pancakes oo Kkanpunggi - Spicy garlic fried chicken stir-fried with vegetables in a sweet, sour and spicy Sauce. oo Kim(side dish/finger food) – Snacks toasted with sesame oil and salt oo Dubu Kimchi - A popular anju, a Korean drinking snack oo Fresh Fruits Date

Monday, February 20

Time

10.15am – 2.30pm

Location

Cihangir, details to be advised to registrants

Cost

Basic members: 95TL; Classic, Business and Honorary members: 85 TL; Guests: 110 TL

Participants

Minimum: 4, Maximum: 8

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Friday, February 17

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

RAHMI KOÇ MUSEUM - MIRROR OF THE INDUSTRIAL LEGACY (1876) which ran from Galata up to Istiklal Street. Our tour will also feature a fascinating visit inside the Submarine ‘TCG Uluçalireis’. Built in 1944 in the USA, this vessel served in the Second World War before being decommissioned and giving 30 years of service to the Turkish Navy.

Our outing will begin on a nautical theme too as we will travel to the Museum by ferry (departing from either Üsküdar or Karaköy) and enjoy the views of the historic peninsula along the way.

IWI members are invited to visit the Rahmi Koç Museum located on the banks of the historic Golden Horn (Haliç).

The Rahmi Koç Museum is the first major museum in Turkey dedicated to the history of Transport, Industry and Communications. Housed in magnificent buildings themselves prime examples of industrial archaeology - the collection contains thousands of items from gramophone needles to olive presses to full size ships and aircraft. And the appeal is universal: objects that affect our daily lives, created by talented engineers and craftsmen.

Our English-speaking guide will introduce us to some of the highlights including the Sultan’s Carriage, a beautifully restored coach built in 1866 for Sultan Abdul Aziz for use during his tour of Europe, and the original Tünel Carriage

For those who would like, the Museum visit will be followed by lunch at the beautiful Café du Levant- a real Parisian Brasserie. Located within an old stone lengerhane (the building used for casting anchors and chains for the Ottoman navy) the Café du Levant serves delicious French cuisine. A discount of 25% will be offered on their à la carte menu. A very popular program with our members, at the perfect time of year, be sure to grab your seat!

Date

Wednesday, February 22

Time

11.30am

Location

Hasköy, Istanbul

Cost

Classic, Business and Honorary members: 40 TL; Basic members: 45 TL; Guests: 50 TL

Participants Minimum: 10, Maximum: 18 Registration Online at iwi-tr.org by Friday, February 17 Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

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LALE EVENTS COFFEE AND CULTURE – BELERBEYI PALACE Its relatively short history has some interesting stories – France’s Empress Eugenie had her face slapped upon entering, but nevertheless was so impressed by the guest room window that she had it copied for the Tuileries Palace in Paris. Later, Beylerbeyi Palace held captive Sultan Abdulhamid II, the 34th Sultan and the last to exert effective autocratic control over the fracturing state, after he was deposed by the revolutionary Young Turks.

Continuing our popular series of member-led exploratory tours of our city, Gaye is offering to take us to the Beylerbeyi Palace, followed by a stroll through the district of Beylerbeyi.

The Palace was commissioned by Sultan Abdülazziz as his summer residence and place of welcome for foreign royalty and dignitaries – its opulence was designed to impress. Built in 1865 by the brother of the architect of the Dolmabahçe Palace, its name means “Lord of Lords”. Our event price includes the entrance fee to the Palace, which comes with a guided tour. We will see beautiful naval frescoes, Ming vases, French Baccarat chandeliers and Hereke carpets. The huge marble cooling pool and fountain in the reception hall, and the gilded and painted sultan’s apartment are key features of the interior. Outside, there are separate men’s and women’s marble bathing pavilions overlooking the Bosphorus.

54

Strolling the Beylerbeyi neighbourhood, depending upon time and our mood, we can see some of the various pavilions (or kiosks) in the area and at the seaside. Some of the wealthiest people in Turkey own homes in the Beylerbeyi neighbourhood, including several members of the Sabancı family. We can visit the waterside Beylerbeyi Mosque (1778).

The little main square has options for taking coffee as well as for browsing boutiques.

Date

Tuesday, February 28

Time

10:30am

Location

Entrance to Beylerbeyi Palace

Cost

30 TL

Participants

Minimum: 8, Maximum: 15

Registration

Online at iwi-tr.org by Saturday, February 25

Contact

programs@iwi-tr.org

LALE CALENDAR Every month the IWI hosts many fun cultural and lifestyle events. Here is what’s coming up in the new year Monday

January 2017

Tuesday

Wednesday

Thursday

Friday

Saturday

Sunday

1

2

3

9

10

Coffee Morning Asian Side

4

5

6

7

8

11

12

13

14

15

20

21

22

27

28

29

Ice Skating

16

17

18

Turkish Home Cooking 23

24

30

31

19

Coffee Morning European Side 25

Calligraphy Workshop 26

February 2017 Monday

Tuesday

Wednesday

Thursday

1

6

7

8

Chinese New Year Celebration Lunch 13

14

20

21

Korean Cooking Class

Saturday

Sunday

3

4

5

9

10

11

12

16

17

18

19

23

24

25

26

Culinary Tour Across Continents 15

Sirkeci Walking Tour

Coffee Morning Asian Side

Friday

2

22

Coffee Morning European Side

Rahmi Koç Museum Tour 27

28

Beylerbeyi Palace Cofee and Culture

55

IWI BOARD

JOIN THE IWI BOARD & TEAMS

ALL ROLES ARE VOLUNTARY

Have you got vital skills you could be sharing with us? If so, we want to hear from you. We have the following positions available on the board or supporting the board. All enquiries to chairwoman@iwi-tr.org Social Media & Website Administrator

A non-Board position requiring good technical knowledge of communication tools such as Facebook, Twitter, websites etc. You will work with the Marketing & Communications Coordinator to ensure that all IWI social media tools are kept up to date, in a professional and clear manner.

Mums â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;N Kids Administrator

A non-Board position which involves working closely with the Schools Liaison Coordinator to guide and support current IWI Mums â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;n Kids group leaders, as well as organising some events yourself. Good organisational skills. This is a role that can make a real difference to the profile of the IWI.

Have Spare Time ?

We are always looking for new ideas and contributors to our dynamic organisation Please contact volunteer@iwi-tr.org

56

IWI NEWCOMERS

ARE YOU A NEWCOMER?

IWI holds get-togethers over coffee to welcome newcomers every month on both the Asian and European sides of the city ASIAN SIDE COFFEE

We hold newcomer coffee meetings every second Tuesday of the month at Zamane Kahvesi in Bostancı from 10am-12pm.

For more information, contact Gabriele Sailer: 0546 234 2835.

Each month your NCM Local Coordinator will arrange a meet-up in your area, usually in the second week of the month. This is a chance to connect with people in your area and see what the IWI has to offer. We are currently looking for enthusiastic and organised ladies to fill two positions in Areas M and O.

EUROPEAN SIDE COFFEE

We hold newcomer coffee mornings every third Thursday of the month at The House Cafe, Istinye Park from 10am-12pm.

For more information, please contact Ayşe Yücel: 0532 356 3843.

Being an NCM Coordinator involves arranging the meet-up, passing on information about IWI (which you will receive from the overall NCM Coordinator, Maria Eroğlu), encouraging attendance at various IWI events, and generally making people feel welcome.

AREA

COORDINATOR

CONTACT

Area A/C/F

Etiler, Akatlar, Ulus, Beşiktaş, Levent

Leen Saket

leensaket@gmail.com

Area B/J

Tarabya, Sarıyer, Büyükdere, Zekeriyaköy, Kilyos, Uskumruköy

Szilvia Nagy

szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area D

Arnavutköy, Bebek, Rumeli Hisarı, Baltalimanı

Olga Treve

olgatreve@yahoo.com

Area E

Ortaköy, Levazım, Balmumcu

Wendy Serter

wserter@gmail.com

Area G/L

Nişantaşı, Osmanbey, Şişli/Fulya, Gayrettepe, Esentepe, Tepebaşı, Teşvikiye, Maçka, Beyoğlu, Taksim/Tünel, Sultanahmet, Harbiye, Fatih, Gümüşsuyu/Eyüp, Cihangir/ Topağacı, Gaziosmanpaşa/Kabataş

Anna Mozejko

anna.mozejko@iwi.gmail.com

Area H/I

Yeniköy, İstinye, Maslak, Reşitpaşa, Emirgan

Szilvia Nagy

szilviaboldva@gmail.com

Area K

Kemer, Göktürk

Sylwia Regulska Guney

sylwıa.regulska-guney@rplast.pl

Area M

Maltepe, Kadıköy/Üsküdar, Moda, Ataşehir, Kartal, Ömerli, Kücükyalı, Salacak, Tuzla

To be confirmed

Area O

Ümraniye, Çekmeköy, Beykoz, Çengelköy, Anadolu Hisarı, Beylerbeyi, Kanlıca, Kandilli, Polonezköy, Kavacık

To be confirmed

Area P

Büyükçekmece, Küçükçekmece, Hadımköy, Bakırköy, Ataköy, Yeşilköy, Yeşilyurt, Bahçeköy/ Bahçelievler, Güneşli, Yenibosna, Beylikdüzü, Halkalı, Bahçeşehir, Bağcılar, Esenyurt, Küçükköy

Karen Yarnold

karenyarnold2@gmail.com

Area Y

Caddebostan, Fenerbahçe, Erenköy, Kalamış, Suadiye, Valideçeşme, Göztepe, Bakkalköy, Çiftehavuzlar, Şaşkınbakkal, Küçükbakkalköy, Bostancı

Gabriele Sailer

gsailer@paradisefruit.eu

57

MUMS ’N KIDS

MEETINGS AND PLAYGROUPS IWI has weekly playgroups organised according to children’s ages. These are usually hosted by our members at their homes, meet-ups at parks or walks along the Bosphorus coast IWI GROUPS

PLAYGROUPS AT SCHOOLS

These playgroups are free of charge for IWI members. This is an opportunity to meet other parents of infants or toddlers, as well as share the joys and trials of motherhood while creating a support network.

Bosphorus International Pre-School, Emirgan

Please contact the Mums ‘n Kids Coordinator at mumsnkids@ iwi-tr.org if you have any questions or suggestions.

The coordinators will add you to the group’s mailing list to keep you updated about future events.

Pregnant and infants (0-12 months) Coordinator: Ayse - ayse.yufkayuerek@gmail.com Walkers – Younger Toddlers (1-2 years) Coordinator: Merle - merle.klehn@icloud.com Toddlers (2+) Coordinator: Joanna - joannahochhold@gmail.com Asian Side Playgroup (for all ages) Coordinator: Aida - aida.grupoartemisa@gmail.com

Teacher-organised activity, song and circle time, garden play (weather-permitting).

Coffee, tea, milk and cookies provided.

When: Tuesdays Time: 10am-11.30am Cost: FREE Age group: 0-3 years Please contact Ms Collette Laffan-Persembe at preschool@ bipschool.net or telephone at 0212 277 8444. *Note: please call on Mondays to reserve. There are only 10 openings every week. Please only ONE known adult per child. www.bipschool.net.

British International School, Zekeriyaköy and Etiler Indoor and outdoor play (weather-permitting), followed by snack and music time. A known adult must stay and supervise the child.

Zekeriyaköy (Tuesdays and Fridays) / Etiler (Wednesdays and Fridays) Time: 9am-11am (both campuses) Cost: 10TL per session Age: 0-2.5 years of age Please contact Mrs Amanda Ilhan, Preschool and Primary Deputy Director at amandailhan@bis.k12.tr or telephone at 0212 202 7027 ext 116 www.bis.k12.tr.

Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Yeniköy, Istanbul Baby Ballet Playgroup for Boys and Girls When: Thursdays Time: 9:30am-11:30am Cost: 30TL per session, (no block-booking required) Age: 0-3 years Where: Ballet Studio, Eden’s Garden International Preschool, Güzelce Ali Paşa Cad. No. 50, Yeniköy, İstanbul Bring: Soft slippers for little feet Please contact Karen Holyoak Çiftçi, Director at director@ edensgardenpreschool.com or telephone 0212 262 4302 www.edensgardenpreschool.com.

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Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Tarabya, Istanbul Mother and Baby Music and Movement. Parents and guardians can come along for fun singing and dancing with their little ones.

When: Mondays and Tuesdays Time: 4.00pm to 5.00pm Cost: 30TL per class or 50TL for two classes per week Age: 6-23 months Where: Woodsview International Nursery and Preschool, Sumer Korusu, Altuncu Sk, No 5, Tarabya, Istanbul Please contact Maresa Shahnooshi, Teacher and Preschool Coordinator at maresa@woodsviewpreschool.com or by telephone on 0212 299 3906. www.woodsviewpreschool.com

Kindermusik at Play to Learn Pre-School On the European side in Akatlar, Nişantaşı and Koç University Rumelifeneri Campus and on the Asian side in Ataşehir, offering different music classes.

My Time Programme: 18-30 months ABC, Music and Me Programme: 2-4 years of age Please contact Ms Ozlem Hun at info@playtolearn.com.tr or telephone at 0212 352 3031 or 0532 237 2272. www.playtolearn.com.tr

KidsAloud British Culture International Preschool Summer School Age 2-6 and playgroup activitiıes Emirgan, Istanbul, www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer Song & Circle Time, Daytime Activities (art, dance, drama, sport, outdoor play) An adult to stay and supervise child Time: 10:30am - 12:00pm Wednesdays Cost: FREE for IWI members Bring: soft slippers Where: Kids Aloud British Culture Preschool, Emirgan Mah. Şirin Sok. No. 32, Emirgan, Istanbul Please contact Mrs Sevgi Doğan or Carroll Ibramihov Tan Telephone: 0532 361 4427 / 212 229 3776, or sariyer@ ingilizceanakoulu.com *Note: please call on Fridays or Mondays to reserve (within the quota) We offer a 50% discount for IWI members for the summer school and 2016 September term. www.ingilizceanaokulu/sariyer

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND PROVIDERS Fotini Café - Arnavutkoy, Besiktas

A café with a playroom dedicated to babies and toddlers up to three years old, Fotini Café is located along the Bosphorus coast and offers a comfortable area for you and your child to unwind and have fun at the same time.

IWI members enjoy a waiver on the 8TL entrance fee to the playroom. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount. Please contact Lena at fotinicafe@gmail.com or telephone 0533 093 9992. Francalaci Cd. No.26, Arnavutkoy, 34345 Istanbul, Turkey www.fotinicafe.com

Gymboree Play and Music

15% discount for IWI members on Play and Learn classes in the Ortaköy branch. Please present your IWI membership card to claim your discount.

Gymboree Play and Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0-5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in 30 countries, making Gymboree the global leader in early childhood development programmes.

Designed by experts, the age-appropriate activities help develop the cognitive, physical and social skills of children as they play. The programmes are also recognised for their unique approach to parent involvement, which encourages

participation in and understanding of each child’s development.

Cost: 1,020TL for 12 classes (after IWI discount applied) Gymboree members can also enjoy complimentary free-play times during the week. For non-Gymboree members, IWI members these cost 30TL per hour. School Skills programme (drop-off) for the 2-3 year olds or 3-4 year olds. 10% discount on full-year School Skills programme for IWI members.

Music and Art classes are also available. Limited offer for IWI members: 12 classes for the price of eight. Birthday parties for 1-7 year olds (20% discount for weekday bookings) Please contact Esra Taşar at esratasar@gymboreeturkey.com or telephone 212 275 8787. www.gymboreeturkey.com

Hotpot Café - Şişli, Istanbul

Merkez Mah. Perihan Sk. Erbil Apt. No 71-73B, Şişli – Istanbul Located centrally in Şişli, with just a short walk from the metro station, Hotpot café offers playgroups (baby/toddler), yoga (prenatal, yoga, adults), dance and drama classes and other fun activities for both kids and mums. There is a 10% discount for IWI members. Please present your IWI membership card to claim.

Please contact Melissa at info@hotpot.web.tr or telephone 0212 343 5353. www.hotpot.web.tr

Full Circle Healing Doula List

There are doulas on both the European and Asian side. Doulas may be willing to travel to your location. For more detailed information about each doula, and on how a doula can support you, visit www.fullcirclehealing.org.

Do’um

Specialising in pregnancy and childbirth, providing education and counselling services to expecting parents and bringing together experts who believe in a natural approach. www.do-um.com

LOLA (Lots of Lovely Art)

After-school workshops, toddler art, kinder art, weekend workshops, holiday camps, themed birthday parties. www.lotsoflovelyart.com

Our House

Our House is located in Cihangir as a center for children and families. The aim of the organisation is to generate curiosity, creativity ad awareness for children at all stages of development. www.ourhouse.club

Atölye Hippo - Your Art Studio in Yenikoy

A brand new kids’ space in Yeniköy – Istanbul!

Arts & crafts workshops (ages 6-14), walk-in studio alternatives, mommy & me groups, play groups, movies nights, karaoke parties, Go sessions, Zumba dance…

At Atölye Hippo, we want your kids to spend quality time, discovering, creating and designing. Whether you want to exploit those after school idle times, or schedule your weekends with exciting countless workshop alternatives, Atölye Hippo is the right place. Alternatively, Atölye Hippo workshops may also be offered at your premises, be it a special corporate event, a compound gathering, special parties, birthdays or celebrations at your homes…

We are proud to announce that, we very recently started going to schools as an after-school club...you may run into us at your school:) Contacts us at: info@atolye-hippo.com 0542 521 21 30 www.atolye-hippo.com

The Mums ’n Kids Team is a volunteer group that organises activities for you and your children to enjoy. Please take responsibility for your own child’s safety. IWI is not liable for any injury or loss incurred

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GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS Have a particular passion or want to learn one? IWI has various social clubs and affiliated groups in which to get involved. It is a great way to expand your community and make new friends!

Alcoholics Anonymous/Al-Anon Open AA (Alcoholics Anonymous) meetings in English are held in the Union Han building on Istiklal Caddesi, Tünel, next to the Swedish Consulate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 6.45pm (contact 0533 626 5724 ).

There is an Alanon meeting at 6.30pm on Thursdays in the same location. On Sundays, there is an open AA meeting at 4,15pm in Harbiye (contact 0539 606 0123). On the Asian side in Kadikoy, there are meetings at 6pm on Thursdays and at 5.30pm on Saturdays (contact 0537 433 8368). A full listing of all English-speaking AA meetings in Turkey with local contacts can be found on the AA Europe website: www.aa-europe.net Asian Ladies of Istanbul The Asian Ladies of Istanbul is a non-profit social group established over 20 years ago for ladies from East Asia living in Istanbul to come together. A members-only Facebook page provıdes news of the monthly lunches, news, events, photographs and useful information. Please contact Kim Cakirkaya at kim.cakirkaya@gmail.com or 0533 463 6930 for further information.

ARIT (American Research Institute of Turkey) The Friends of ARIT Istanbul, with branches in North America and Ankara, was established to support the ARIT in Turkey. The Istanbul Friends run a yearround programme of tours and lectures for members and guests. Membership is open to all interested residents of Istanbul. For further information call 0212 257 8111.

AWl (American Women of Istanbul) AWI is a social network open to Americans, Canadians and spouses of US or Canadian citizens in Istanbul.

AWI offers social programmes from special-interest groups to charities. If you’re a newcomer to Istanbul please contact our newcomers committee.

Email Monisha Kar or Sia Israfil at awiistanbul@gmail.com.

Belgian Friends of Istanbul The Belgian Friends of Istanbul gathers every month for drinks, brunch, dinner, a walk or a cultural activity. We also offer activities such as the annual St Nicholas party for children or New Year’s dinner.

Our Facebook page allows members to exchange information about job opportunities, housing, babysitting, Belgian cultural events in Istanbul, where to find Belgian products, etc.

Email bfistanbul@gmail.com.

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Book Club There are two IWI book clubs. Book Club 1 is currently over-subscribed, but Book Club 2 is open to new members.

Contact: Mary Akgüner (Book Club 2) mary.akguner@gmail.com Boy Scouts/Cub Scouts The Boy Scouts and Cub Scouts of America is a youth programme for character development and valuesbased leadership training. All boys in grades one to five (ages six to 10) holding a foreign passport are welcome to join Cubs. Older boys (ages 1118) are welcome to join Boy Scouts.

Activities include hiking and camping.

Email Vicki Gunay graygunay@gmail. com or 0532 314 11 34.

Bridge Group Our bridge group meets on Fridays at 10.30am - all levels welcome. Playing bridge in our group is a way to spend a pleasant Friday. Please contact Sandra on 212 257 9781 or 0532 483 5319.

C@rma C@rma is a social initiative promoting dialogue between professionals and NGOs. We have opportunities to volunteer with your specific skills on a pro-bono basis through our platform, www.4carma.com, and we also organise events every two months at which NGOs can present their activites or brainstorm around their problem with professional volunteers. Our website and activities are in Turkish and English. For more information, contact info@4carma.com.

CHICAS Spanish Speaking Women of Istanbul Today with more than 200 members, this group was created 36 years ago by women who lived, live and will live in Istanbul. Created to unite Latin American, Spaniards and others who know our language and want to practice, know each other, help each other, learn, have fun and share in this, our life in Istanbul.

Email: chicasestambul2016@gmail.com Facebook: Chicas Estambul CIRCOLO ROMA (Comunità italiana) The Italian Association organises activities, such as cooking classes, dinners, parties, Italian and Turkish conversation classes, piano lessons, zumba, tamurriata, Italian cinema, medieval fencing, painting on porcelain, capoiera, singing and activities for children. The wonderful liberty hall can also be hired for private parties and conferences. Email Armanda Campaner armandacampaner@ttmail.com or Elsa Zambonini elsazambonini@yahoo.com, tel 0212 244 17 59 or visit our website info@circoloroma.com.

IWI Craft Group Contact Gaye Hiçdonmez at gayehicdonmez@gmail.com or 0532 700 0693.

Die Bruecke Die Bruecke, founded ın 1989, is a platform for the German-speaking community. It is open to everyone who speaks German. Die Bruecke issues a monthly newsletter. Different gatherings, charities, information concerning everyday life, bi-national education, help with bureaucracy and immigration laws in Turkey are covered. Website www.bruecke-istanbul.com, email info@ bruecke-istanbul.com.

DNSI - The Dutch School of Istanbul We provide Dutch language and cultural lessons to students aged between three and 16 with at least one parent with Dutch nationality. We also provide lessons to students aged three to 13, who would like to learn Dutch as a foreign language. We also offer a oneweek Dutch summer school. Please check our website www.dnsi.nu or email secretaris@dnsi.nu.

Fransız Fakirhanesi – Little Sisters of the Poor Email Mother Mary psdptr@gmail.com or phone 0212 296 4608.

Friends of India Association (FOIA) The Friends of India Association (FOIA) aims to connect Indians in Istanbul through social events. Our aim is to keep the spirit of India and Indian culture alive by organising festivals and activities. If you would like to know more, email any of the following: Jugnu Saglik: jugnusaglik@yahoo.com, Diya: khera.diya@gmail.com. We are also on Facebook as Istanbul Indian community (FOIA).

Girl Scouts The Girl Scouts is dedicated to helping girls everywhere build character and gain skills for success. İn a nurturing environment, and in with committed volunteers, girls develop strong values, leadership skills, social conscience and conviction about their own potential and self-worth. Girls aged fıve and up are welcome. Email Kat Bekham usagsoistanbul@gmail.com or phone 054 2300 24 92.

InterNations InterNations is an organisation where globally minded people have the opportunity to network and exchange valuable tips and topics regarding expatriate subjects. We organise events and provide opportunities for our members to meet and network twice a month. For further information please see our website internations.org.

GROUPS & ASSOCIATIONS

International Women’s Bible Study This group meets Tuesdays from 10am until 12.30pm. Contact Vicki Günay on 0532 314 1134.

Istanbul Accueil Welcomes French speaking newcomers in Istanbul. We publish a weekly newsletter listing many events and activities. All French-speaking people are welcome! Email istaccueil@ gmail.com or visit our website www. istanbulaccueil.org.

IWI Tennis Group If you enjoy playing tennis please join our group. The IWI Tennis Group takes place at Istanbul Tennis Academy (ISTA) in Istinye. We welcome all players from beginners to advanced. Please contact Kenan Dundar at 0535 390 4983 or email kenandundar911@hotmail.com.

You can also contact IWI Sports Events Coordinator Olga at 0531 945 2588 or email pautova@hotmail.com

little while to get familiar with. Join us we will guide and support you. Please contact Br Gerd Andreasson for more information. Email: gerd.andreasson@ gmail.com. Tel: +90 531 327 1108.

NVI – Dutch speaking people of Istanbul The Dutch Club Istanbul aıms to keep typical Dutch festivities alive, for people who have a connection to Holland, who like to meet up with Dutch-speaking people. For further information check our website (www.nv-istanbul.org) or contact Lisette Ruygrok at secretariaat@ nv-istanbul.org.

Luso Brasileiro Portuguese speaking group. Contact Isabel Ponte Gulpan 0212 669 4943 or 0532 274 1653.

PAWI The Professional American Women of Istanbul is a network of American/ Canadian women and spouses of Americans/Canadians living in Istanbul.

PAWI strives to empower and support members by promoting personal and professional growth. Each monthly PAWI meeting features a guest speaker, and locations alternate between the European and Asian sides. Contact pawimembership@gmail.com or visit www.pawistanbul.wordpress.com.

Istanbul International Rugby Center Founded in 2007, this is the only Rugby Club in Istanbul with coaching for children and teenagers. Turkish, English, French and Spanish all spoken. The club has coached over 400 international children aged fıve to 16. Rugby training is every Saturday 12.30 - 2pm at Dilikitaş Sport Club in Beşiktaş. Contact Club President Gülseren Gomez or Technical Director Mr Luis Gomez on 0538 642 4513 or see our website: www.istanbulrugbycenter.com

Photography Club The photo club is a group of international members whose skill levels vary from very basic to semiprofessional – but who all share the desire to capture the world in a photograph and to explore Istanbul while doing so. The group discussion includes all current event information, bi-weekly photo challenges, tips and tricks, and general photography topics. Contact: Katherıne Baker at photoclubofistanbul@gmail.com.

Istanbul Ottomans Rugby Football Club We practise every Saturday afternoon between 4pm and 6pm, except on days when there are official fixtures, at the Dikilitaş Spor Kulübü in Besiktas (directions available at www. ottomansrugby.com). Players of all ages (17+) and all levels of fitness are welcome.

IWI Rollerblading Biking Group Asian-side meetup. Bikes can be rented, bring your own rollerblades. Contact Gabriele Sailer for more information gsailer@paradisefruit.eu.

Mahjong Club We are a small group of ladies, meeting once a week to piay Mahjong, a Chinese ‘brick’ game. Mahjong is very popular ın China and across Asia. The game was traditionally played in clubs, on the street and in homes. We meet on Mondays at 10.30am and usually continue until around 3.30pm. We meet at each other’s homes, where we are served a light lunch, nothing complicated. You don’t have to know the game in advance. It ıs not a complicated game, but it can take a

IWI Running Group The programme will run on a rolling basis, with membership renewable every month. If members need to travel, members may rejoin the group upon return. New members can join anytime.

Thursdays at 7pm, Sundays at 8am Caddebostan sahil. 120 USD per month.

Contact Marina Khonina at marina.khonina@gmail.com or 0534 9828307

dancers, singers and musicians from the international community. We also run a part-time school of performing arts for young people over 10 years of age and adults for three hours on Saturday mornings. Email tom@speechbubbles. org or www.speechbubbles.org.

South Africans in Istanbul Please contact esbie@hotmail.com if you are interested in forming an informal group of expatriate South Africans.

SWEA (Swedish Women Educational Association) SWEA is a world-wide network for Swedish-speaking women with a chapter in Istanbul. We organise events and activities and welcome everyone who speaks Swedish. If you would like to know more, please contact istanbul@ swea.org.

Support Group for Parents of Children with Special Needs Looking for the support of other parents of children with special needs and additional resources for your child?

Please contact Carol Crous for more information on 0533 730 7148 or 0212 223 9700.

Toastmasters International – Istanbul Chapter The English speaking Istanbul Toastmasters Club is the first Istanbul branch of Toastmasters International, an organisation that helps its members improve their communication and leadership skills in a supportive environment.

ITM meets on the first and third Wednesday of each month from 7.30pm to 9.30pm at the Gönen Hotel in Taksim.

Guests are welcome to attend two meetings free of charge. Email vpmembership@istanbultoastmasters.org or president@istanbultoastmasters.org.

Union Church of Istanbul We are an international, interdenominational church that offers services in English. Please visit ucistanbul.org for more information.

Speech Bubbles Speech Bubbles Theatre is a drama group established in 1988 aiming to perform high-quality English language musical theatre and donating proceeds to charities supporting children and education. Speech Bubbles is composed of amateur and professional

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IWI DIRECTORY / CLASSIFIEDS

PROFESSIONAL MASSAGE

I can come to your house... Pregnancy massage, cellulite massage, relaxing massage, full body massage, osho rebalancing, massage or wax. Call me for more information: Hatice Yildrim Tirli 0532 260 4118 or 0542 434 1932.

PIANO LESSONS

I give private piano lessons starting 4 years old. Our lessons can be in English or Turkish. I live in Ortakoy/Ulus area. Lessons can take place in my house as well as in the studentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house. I organise a piano recital at the end of the school year. I can prepare kids for London College of Music exams where they receive an internationally recognised certificate. Hope to meet you!

Sandra 0532 422 0413

WEEKEND BREAK IN SIRINCE

I give private piano lessons starting 4 years old. Our lessons can be in English or Turkish. I live in Ortakoy/Ulus area. Lessons can take place in my house as well as in the studentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house. I organise a piano recital at the end of the school year. I can prepare kids for London College of Music exams where they receive an internationally recognised certificate. Hope to meet you!

Sandra 0532 422 0413

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TURKISH LESSONS

PRIVATE AND CONVERSATIONAL For ladies and men, group or one to one lessons, at your home or workplace, from an experienced native teacher fluent in English and French. Adjustable to your needs and time schedule.

Please call 0530 310 21 32 or email rbensan@superonline.com for full information.

NATIVE FRENCH TEACHER

I am a native French teacher; born and raised in Belgium. I have taught in UAE, Ivory-Coast, Tunisia. I can provide French lessons for kids or for adults. Please contact me for an appointment or my CV, recommendation letters, references. Mail: bejihamida@hotmail.com Mobile: 0 (538) 692 87 17

IWI PARTNER OFFERS

In order to take advantage of these offers, you must show your IWI membership card

PERSONAL LIFE COACHING

With 15 years’ experience in expat living, I am ready to assist you during your transition period. I am a certified Life Coach, Intercultural Trainer and MBTI Specialist. I speak German and English fluently.

I would be happy to offer a 20% discount to IWI members. Ozlem Hersek: 0532 616 5045 ozlemhersek@gmail.com

CONCEPT LANGUAGES

Located in the heart of Etiler, Concept Languages is offering free Turkish conversation classes to any IWI member presenting their card. Classes will take place twice a month between 14:30-15:30. For information and reservations, please contact: Başak Toksoy 0212 351 1840 or basak.toksoy@conceptlanguages.com

SWISS CENTERDENT DENTAL CLINIC ZORLU CENTER

Swiss Centerdent Dental Clinic is located in Zorlu Center Shopping Mall, Istanbul and Sihlcity Shopping Mall Zürich, Switzerland. Our experienced team of specialists offers you Swiss excellence and standards in dental health care. Our clinic offers the entire spectrum of dentistry, with the use of state of the art technology. We strive to create a practice climate that is beneficial, soothing and inviting. Our services: Implantology, Orthodontics, Paediatric Dentristry, Prostethics and much more: We offer a 20% discount on all services for IWI members.

Swiss CENTERDENT, Zorlu Center, Teras Evler, T0, Daire 35, Beşiktaş, Istanbul, 0212 353 6383 www.swisscenterdent.com

BOYNUZ STEAK HOUSE & KASAP

Boynuz Steak House is offering IWI members a 10% discount.

Poligon Mah. Poligon Cd. Fevzi Cakmak Sk. No:2 Istinye Phone: 0212 229 1910. www.boynuzet.com

TIME OUT SUBSCRIPTIONS

Time Out Istanbul in English is offering a 25% discount on subscriptions for IWI members. Make Time Out your monthly go-to guide for the city.

Find out how you may get your free issue by contacting: Omer Karanis, omer@ajansmedya.com. www.timeoutistanbul.com

MOMMA ZEN/ANNEZEN

Momma Zen & Annezen is a centre which specialises in yoga, massage and aromatherapy. We offer many types of services, classes and workshops for all women, especially expectant mothers, babies and children.

We also offer a doula service and breastfeeding workshops, as well as massage and yoga for non-pregnant women. Momma Zen also teaches HypnoBirthing classes in English and runs workshops on making natural skincare products. For IWI members we are pleased to offer a 20% discount on the full price of prenatal yoga and birthing classes, workshops, massages and mother-baby yoga classes. Momma Zen/ Annezen, Kordon Yolu Sokak 8/1, Kordon Apt, Kalamiş, Istanbul. Tel: 0216 345 0866. www.momma-zen.com or www.annezen.com/program

DENTIST BURÇIN GOFF

Located in Çengelköy - Anatolian Side. We offer IWI members a 25% discount on all treatments. Address: Albay Hüsamettin Ertürk Cad. No: 4 D: 23, Çengelköy-Üsküdar. Mobile: 0536 357 9808. Email: bhtgoff@ yahoo.com

C.C.C. -CHRISTINE COTTON CLUB

The established PLUS SIZE BRAND for Women in Turkey since 1985 – C.C.C. is happy to offer a special 10% discount on all purchases by IWI Members. The discount is valid in the C.C.C. Shops in Kadıköy, Profilo AVM and Bağdat Caddesi. Please check our website for our new collection: www.ccctextil.com C.C.C. Kadıköy: Osmanağa Mah. Süleymanpaşa Sk. No:5, Kadıköy, Phone: 0216 450 5939, C.C.C. Profilo AVM: B Kapısı Girişi Zemin Kat No:04 Mecidiyeköy, Phone: 0212 212 5752, C.C.C. Saskinbakkal: Bağdat Caddesi No: 372 Suadiye, Phone: 0216 411 7596

FOTINI CAFÉ

ISTANBUL UNIVERSITY LANGUAGE CENTER

Istanbul University Language Center is a department of Istanbul University offering foreign languages education (English, French, German, Russian, Arabic, Spanish, Greek, Portuguese etc.) in addition to Turkish as a Foreign Language, in the light of up-todate developments in education and with the help of the academic background of Istanbul University.

IULC is offering a discount on language lessons to members of IWI. For more information, visit: http://dilmerkezi.istanbul.edu.tr/en/ or call: 0212 243 6729.

MARRİOTT ŞİŞLİ SPA & HEALTH CLUB

Indulge in a day of relaxation and pampering at our luxury spa. We offer a wide range of massage and beauty treatments, guaranteed to refresh and renew you. IWI members receive a 20% discount. Appointments are required, Phone: 0212 375 0100 ext. 3695

SHANDRA SPA

Have you been looking for somewhere to have a relaxing and holistic facial?

Try the Skincare Specialists at Shandra Spa, Bebek. Friendly, experienced and results-oriented. For more details and to book an appointment visit: https://shandra-spa.salonized.com

CHILL OUT SPA NIŞANTAŞI

British salon owner, Ann Marie Sabuncu is offering IWI members a 15% discount on all treatments and package programs. Chill Out Spa is a small boutique spa using quality products from Decleor and the latest in technology. LPG body treatments and reflexology are just some of the treatments available. For more information, please contact Ann Marie at 0212 231 1159. www.chilloutspa.com.tr

PRIVATE TENNIS LESSONS

For kids and adults. Located in Istanbul, we specialize in coaching all skill levels. We’ve got you covered. Our classes focus on rapid development while being affordable and fun. We offer a 20% discount to IWI members.

Mert Ozgenc: Certified tennis trainer with more than 12 years coaching experience. Mobile: 0532 602 3883, Email: mert_ozgenc@yahoo.com

Fotini Cafe is offering IWI Members a 10% discount.

Francalacı cad. 26/1, Arnavutköy/Istanbul.Tel: 0533 093 99 92: www. fotinicafe.com

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IWI POLICIES Membership Directory Membership information is only available online in the members only area of the website at present, but depending on sponsorship availability, may again be printed in the future as it was in the past. Whether online or in print, any and all member information is provided to IWI members in strictest confidentiality. Provision of member information to third parties contravenes IWI policy

MEMBERSHIP

ADVERTISING

Membership registration is also available at our Newcomers meetings, held each month on both the European and Asian sides. Please refer to the Newcomers page in this Lale magazine for details of timing and location.

Classified ads: Restricted to 50 words.

Changing Address or Lale Problems?

Don’t forget to give us your new address (postal and/or e-mail) to avoid delays to the delivery of Lale magazine or for up-to-date IWI member information. Contact our Membership Coordinator by e-mail at membership@iwi-tr.org.

All advertising costs are payable by bank transfer.

No cash payments accepted. A copy of the payment transfer (dekont) should be sent via email: advertising@iwi-tr.org. Only paid advertisements can be included in Lale.

Membership is open to all women who hold a Non-Turkish passport or who are married to a foreign passport holding spouse. For application details, please visit our website www.iwi-tr.org.

If your Lale magazine doesn’t arrive, please contact the Membership Coordinator membership@iwi-tr.org

To place an advertisement please contact us at advertising@iwi-tr.org. Advertisements must be confirmed through signed contract before any payment is accepted.

Member cost: 1-3 FREE in our online publications (Non-Commercial Ads) Non-Member cost: $60 plus 18% VAT.

Payment Details Bank: Garanti Bankası Branch Code (Hesap Şubesi): 340 Etiler TL Account (TL Hesap): TR03 0006 2000 3400 0006 2991 17 USD Account (USD Hesap): TR09 0006 2000 3400 0009 0939 67 Customer Name: İstanbul Uluslararası Kadınlar Derneği İktisadi İşletmesi

DISCLAIMER

Lale Content The IWI as an organisation and the IWI Board members act within the laws of Turkey pertaining to publishing but they do not accept any liability regarding the accuracy or content of the contributions supplied by our advertisers or members’ articles.

In order to comply with these laws or publishing standards the IWI reserve the right to reject or edit any submission to Lale. Furthermore, the IWI does not accept any responsibility for any of the services rendered by any of our advertisers.

Programmes Cancellation of a programme reservation after the deadline remains fully payable. Please refer to our website www.iwi-tr.org for up to date details, last minute additions or programme changes. The IWI reserves the right to cancel programmes due to insufficient numbers. You are responsible for both you and your child’s safety and the IWI cannot accept responsibility for injury or extra cost incurred during any activity organised by the IWI, or advertised in Lale.

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