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THEMILLMAGAZINE.COM•EDITION 13 NO. 2•SOUTHERN GARDEN
eatures F T Welcome Bugs Into Your Garden
p.32 Enveloped
p.60
By Hedge
A Private Southern Garden
p.46
p.18
Variegation FOR THE LOVE OF
Summer Fruits in the South
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Dr. Teresa T. Mercado, DDS, FICOI with her French Bulldog, Boomer
803-547-7779 | 1515 ONYX RIDGE, SUITE 108, FORT MILL, SC 29708 | MONARCHDENTISTRYOFGOLDHILL.COM
Welcome Bugs Into Your Garden Te x t by B r i a n L o ve t t
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ith warm weather, gardeners are laying in supplies and making plans. Meanwhile, common garden insects such as bees, beetles and butterflies will emerge from their underground burrows or nests within or on plants.
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A snail perched on a hydrangea blossom. Photo by Krzysztof Niewolny.
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Most gardeners know how beneficial insects can be for their plots. Flies pollinate flowers. Predatory bugs, such as the spined shoulder bug, eat pest insects that otherwise would tuck into garden plants. As a scientist whose research involves insects and as a gardener, I know that many beneficial insect species are declining and need humans’ help. If you’re a gardener looking for a new challenge this year, consider revamping all or part of your yard to support beneficial insects. LAWNS ARE INSECT FOOD DESERTS Some gardeners choose native plants to attract and support helpful insects. Often, however, those native plants are surrounded by vast expanses of lawn. The vast majority of insect species find blades of grass as unappetizing as we do. Yet, lawns sprawl out across many public and private spaces. NASA estimated in 2005 that lawns covered at least 50,000 square miles (128,000 square kilometers) of the U.S. – about the size of the entire state of Mississippi. A well-manicured lawn is a sure sign that humanity has imposed its will on nature. Lawns provide an accessible and familiar landscape, but they come at a cost for our six-legged neighbors. Grasses grown as turf provide very few places for insects to safely tuck themselves away, because homeowners and groundskeepers cut them short – before they send up flowering spikes – and apply fertilizers and pesticides to keep them green. Entomologists have a recommendation: Dig up some fraction of your lawn and convert it into a meadow by replacing grass with native wildflowers. Wildflowers provide pollen and nectar that feed and attract a variety of insects like ants,
Found in a thriving meadow, a vibrant butterfly and a praying mantis. Photos by (top left to right) Alfred Schrock and David Clode.
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native bees and butterflies. Just as you may have a favorite local restaurant, insects that live around you have a taste for the flowers that are native to their areas. This bold choice will not just benefit insects. Healthier insects support local birds, and meadows require fewer chemical inputs and less mowing than lawns. The amount of attention lawns demand from us, even if we outsource the work to a landscaping company, is a sign of their precarity. A meadow is a wilder, more resilient option. Resilient ecosystems are better able to respond to and recover from disturbances. Entomologist Ryan Gott, integrated pest management and quality control specialist at Maitri Genetics in Pittsburgh, describes lawns and meadows as two opposite ends of a resiliency spectrum. “As far as basic ecological functions go, a lawn does not have many. A lawn mainly extracts nutrition and water, usually receiving outside inputs of fertilizer and irrigation to stay alive, and returns very little to the system,” he told me. Native flowers, by definition, will grow well in your climate, although some areas will have more choices than others and growing seasons vary. Native plants also provide a palette of colors and variety that lawns sorely lack. By planting them as a meadow, with many different flowers emerging throughout the growing season, you can provide for a diverse assortment of local insects. And mowing and fertilizing less will leave you more time to appreciate wildlife of all sizes. There are many different types of meadows, and every wildflower species
Lacewing resting on a flower stem. Photo by Adli Wahid.
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THEMILLMAGAZINE.COM•EDITION 13 NO. 2•SOUTHERN GARDEN
has different preferences for soil type and conditions. Meadows thrive in full sunlight, which is also where lawns typically do well. MAKING INSECTS FEEL AT HOME Not every yard can support a meadow, but there are other ways to be a better, more considerate neighbor to insects. If you have a shady yard, consider modeling your garden after natural landscapes like woodlands that are shady and support insects. What’s important in landscaping with insects in mind, or “entoscaping,” is considering insects early and often when you visit the garden store. With a few pots or window boxes, even a balcony can be converted into a cozy insect oasis. If you’re gardenless, you can still support insect health. Try replacing white outdoor lights, which interfere with many insects’ feeding and breeding patterns. White lights also lure insects into swarms, where they are vulnerable to predators. Yellow bulbs or warm-hued LEDs don’t have these effects. Another easy project is using scrap wood and packing materials to create simple “hotels” for bees or ladybugs, making sure to carefully sanitize them between seasons. Easiest of all, provide water for insects to drink – they’re adorable to watch as they sip. Replace standing water at least weekly to prevent mosquitoes from developing. A REFUGE IN EVERY YARD Many resources across the U.S. offer advice on converting your lawn or making your yard more insect-friendly.
Lush meadow and a honey bee sipping nectar. Photos by (top to bottom) Chris Abney and Leon Skrilec.
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The Xerces Society for Insect Conservation publishes a guide to establishing meadows to sustain insects. Local university extension offices post tips on growing meadows with specific instructions and resources for their areas. Gardening stores often have experience and carry selections of local plants. You may find established communities of enthusiasts for local plants and seeds, or your journey could be the start of such a group. Part of the fun of gardening is learning what plants need to be healthy, and a new endeavor like entoscaping will provide fresh challenges. In my view, humans all too often see ourselves as separate from nature, which leads us to relegate biodiversity to designated parks. In fact, however, we are an important part of the natural world, and we need insects just as much as they need us. As ecologist Douglas Tallamy argues in his book, “Nature’s Best Hope,” the best way to protect biodiversity is for people to plant native plants and promote conservation in every yard.
aM T M T H E M I L L M AG A Z I N E
Brian Lovett is a postdoctoral researcher in Mycology at the Division of Plant and Soil Sciences at West Virginia University working on fungal biology and biotechnology. He has contributed to the advancement of transgenic mosquito-killing fungi for malaria prevention.
Ladybugs, lacewings, spiders, earthworms and honey bees are among the most beneficial common garden animals. Photos by (left to top right) Dustin Humes, Kristine Cinate, and Carrie Borden.
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Exceptional example of walled garden in the heart of Charleston, SC. Photo courtesy of postandcourier.com.
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Enveloped By Hedge A Private Southern Garden
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C o m p i l e d by A u b re y D u c a n e
hether your Southern garden is large or small, undoubtedly you’ll have areas that could benefit from privacy provided by hedge. Plantings, casual or formal, that provide privacy in your garden will help to create a tranquil oasis.
Options to consider are fast-growing Japanese Yew with bright green foliage, Ligustrum -- another fast-growing evergreen with a wavy leaf and white blossoms in the spring, a southern favorite -- Wax Myrtle, Nellie Stevens Holly -- a conical tall shrub, the fragrant Tea Olive, and let’s not forget the must-have Hydrangeas.
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(Above) A Classic Charleston Walled Garden. Photo courtesy of charlestoncvb.com.
(Left) Williamsburg Concrete Chiswell Fountain by Campania International | $1,380.00
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(Above) Cast Iron Nymph Statue by BurgessHomeandGarden | $149.71
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(Above) Classic Cherub Cast Iron Wall Ornament by Antique Garden Furnishings | $150.11 (Right) Garden of the William C. Gatewood House. The four-year restoration of this antebellum masonry home included an overhaul of the gardens by the noted landscape designer Deborah Nevins, who added a boxwood-lined plunge pool surrounded by Charleston standards—wisteria, azaleas, crape myrtles, and Sabal palmettos. Photo courtesy of G.P. Schafer Architect.
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(Above) Garden With Raised Plunge Pool by landscape designer Deborah Nevins. Photo courtesy of G. P. Schafer Architect.
(Left Inset) Tall Standing Girl with Bird Magnesium Statue by ZaerLtd | $334.49
(Left) The William C. Gatewood House, a classic 9,500 square foot greek revival “sideyard” house, built in 1843 in the heart of Charleston’s historic district for a wealthy Virginian, William C. Gatewood featuring potted lemon trees. Photo courtesy of G.P. Schafer Architect.
(Right) Cast Iron Garden Swan by Decopunch | $210.82
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(Left) Vintage Sitting Greyhound by DSGardenShop | $129.99 (Below) Garden at Cedar Lane Farm, Madison, GA. Photo courtesy of southerngardenhistory.org. (Right Inset) Williamsburg Summer House Birdbath by Campania International | $218.00 (Right) Gardens by the noted landscape designer Deborah Nevins. Photo courtesy of G.P. Schafer Architect.
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FOR THE LOVE OF
Variegation
F
Text by Gregory Moore
ads and fashion have always influenced the plants we keep. And so it is with variegated plants, which have become very popular with indoor plant enthusiasts these days. Variegated plants possess multiple colors – typically on their leaves, but in some cases on stems, flowers, and fruit. Their patterns include stripes, dots, edges, and patches. They’re usually green with either white or yellow but can also feature red, pink, silver, and other colors.
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When planting a variegated plant outdoors, watch that it doesn’t become shaded by other quicker-growing plants.
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Variegated plants come in an array of colors and patterns. Photo top left by Colette Smith. Photo bottom right by Rebecca Matthews.
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Variegated plants can divide opinion. I recall a great aunt telling me many years ago of her great fondness for the variegated Aspidistra elatior growing in her garden. But I’ve also heard gardeners and garden designers dismiss variegated foliage because it didn’t fit with their design or color themes. Now, it seems indoor variegated plants are considered a “must-have” home decor accessory. But before you rush out and buy one, make sure you know how to keep it happy. UNDERSTANDING VARIEGATED PLANTS Most plant species are entirely green but occasionally a variegated individual arises. Some catch the eye of a dedicated plant collector or nursery worker and become a popular variety. Plant variegation can occur for several reasons. In some plants, such as the flowers of tulips, it’s due to a viral infection. The resulting streaks of different colors may be cursed or valued depending on the aesthetic effect. Other plants, such as those in the genus coleus, are naturally patterned. Groups of cells produce different color combinations, causing leaves to grow with attractive markings. Plant variegations can also arise from a genetic mutation. When growing variegated plants, it’s important to understand how the various colors affect the way it functions. The green part of plants contains chlorophyll, a pigment essential for
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photosynthesis. Photosynthesis, of course, is the process by which the leaves convert sunlight into oxygen and carbohydrate that provides energy for plants to grow. In variegated plants, white parts of leaves do not contain chlorophyll and so do not photosynthesize. Yellow parts of leaves can help send energy to the chlorophyll, but can’t perform photosynthesis on their own. The same goes for some red, orange, and pink patches of tissue. But all cells in the leaf – green or not – use the plant’s energy. That means variegated plants are less efficient energy producers than their all-green counterparts, which causes them to grow more slowly. Some plants have mutated into albinos containing no chlorophyll. These normally die within a few days or weeks of germination. CARING FOR YOUR PLANT INDOORS It’s no coincidence many popular indoor plants – such as coleus, philodendrons, monsteras, dracaenas, and calatheas – are variegated. Because they’re usually far less vigorous than all-green versions of the species, they won’t be pushing against the ceiling within weeks. The decorative color and pattern of a variegated indoor plant are an added bonus. Variegated plants can take longer than others to reach a size considered appropriate for sale at a nursery, so may be comparatively more expensive.
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Yellow parts of leaves do not photosynthesize. Photo top right by Kelly Sikkema. Photo bottom left by Olena Shmahalo.
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Indoor variegated plants need good light to make up for the lack of chlorophyll. Photo top left by Kelly Sikkema.
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But there are ways to protect your variegated investment. First, watch out for “reversion”. This can occur when a variegated plant sends up an all-green shoot. The shoot will grow fast compared to the variegated parts and can eventually take over, causing the whole plant to revert to green. To avoid this, vigilantly remove any green shoots before they get big. You don’t want variegated plants quickly outgrowing their space, but remember they’re low on chlorophyll and so need good light. And like any indoor plant, ensure its leaves are kept free of fine dust and you don’t give it too much, or too little, water. VARIEGATED PLANTS IN THE GARDEN The popularity of indoor variegated plants will almost certainly lead to greater use outdoors. Their slow-growing nature means outdoor variegated plants are usually much less likely to be “weedy” and spread where they’re not wanted. This can be an advantage if you’ve avoided planting a species because it will take over the garden. The variegated versions of pittosporum, ficus, and nerium oleander, for example, are far less intent on global domination than their all-green counterparts. When planting a variegated plant outdoors, watch that it doesn’t become shaded by other quicker-growing plants. Many variegated plants already struggle to photosynthesize sufficiently. A bit of extra shade can damage or even kill them.
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Ensure variegated plants are not over-shaded. Photos by Nareeta Martin.
So ensure they get enough light – and every so often give them a hand by trimming back nearby plants. GROWING WITH FLYING COLORS Variegated plants are having their moment in the sun. But their interesting biology is always in fashion. These plants can brighten up your indoor space and provide attractive color and pattern in the garden. By learning about how variegated plants function and considering their special requirements, you can enjoy them for years to come.
aM T M T H E M I L L M AG A Z I N E
Gregory Moore is a Doctor of Botany at the University of Melbourne. With a general interest in horticultural plant science, revegetation and ecology, Greg is particularly interested in arboriculture. He was the inaugural president of the International Society of Arboriculture, Australian Chapter, and has been a member of the National Trust’s Register of Significant Trees since 1988 and chair since 1996. He has served the Board of Greening Australia (Victoria) since 1988 and chaired Treenet since 2005. He is on the board of Sustainable Gardening Australia and is a trustee of the Trust for Nature. He has written two books, contributed to three others, and published over 120 scientific papers and articles.
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Summer Fruits in the South
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Blueberries
THEMILLMAGAZINE.COM•EDITION 13 NO. 2•SOUTHERN GARDEN
Blueberries have a long growing season in the South, June 1-August 15. North Carolina’s Blueberries could be the perfect fruit. Compact, tasty, and packed with health supporting nutrients, blueberries rank as one of nature’s super foods. Blueberries have two cousins, the bog-loving cranberry and the European bilberry. Bilberries look similar to the blueberry, but are smaller, darker colored, and have reddish-purple pulp versus the light green of the native North America blueberry. The most common cultivated blueberry type is Vaccinium corynmbodsum or Northern Highbush Blueberry. In the southeastern United States, Southern Highbush and “rabbiteye” blueberries are also commercially important. Southern Highbush cultivars, like the “rabbiteye” cultivars produce better in warmer climates, tolerate droughts and have lower chill requirements. Rabbiteye blueberries get their name because they are pinkish, resembling the eyes of albino rabbits till they ripen. Rabbiteye blueberries can grow up to twenty feet tall making them the taller blueberry bush. Highbush blueberries run six to twelve feet tall. Rabbiteye blueberry varieties bloom earlier, but highbush blueberries ripens earlier. Lowbush blueberries were the type enjoyed by the indigenous peoples and early European settlers of the North America. That changed in the late 1800’s when Elizabeth Colman White convinced her family to underwrite the research of Dr. Frederick A. Coville (US Dept of Agriculture). The collaboration resulted in the first hybrid, highbush blueberry varieties. Lowbush blueberry varieties are typically marketed as “wild” blueberries. Lowbush blueberries, Vaccinium angustifolium, are commercially important to Maine and Canada. Fire hardy, lowbush blueberry “barrens” are still managed by burning off top cover. There is a fifth type of commercially important blueberry! Half-high blueberry varieties grow two to four fee tall and are a hybrid of highbush and wild lowbush blueberries. They are also popular as ornamental landscape. Unless you ask the farmer, there is no differentiation between blueberry types in the market. Some would suggest highbush blueberries are better for fresh fruit whereas rabbiteyes are preferred for freezing and other processing. Popular highbush blueberries varieties include: Duke, New Hanover, Farthing, Abundance, Reb, O’Neal, Star, Legacy and Emerald. Columbus, Brightwell, Tifblue, and Powder Blue are commonly cultivated rabbiteye varieties. Traditional Blueberry Sonker Courtesy of North Carolina Blueberry Council
A Sonker is a traditional North Carolina take on the Cobbler. After a call for recipes, this was forwarded from a North Carolina blueberry fan who says this is a family favorite all year around! You can use fresh or frozen blueberries and be sure to have vanilla ice cream on hand! This is simple, fast and tasty. Ingredients 2 cups fresh or frozen blueberries remove all stems and then rinse 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 1 large egg 1 stick butter unsalted preferred melted 1/4 cup water Directions Preheat oven to 400. In 8x8 baking pan put the blueberries, water. Sprinkle about a tablespoon of sugar over the blueberries. Make the crust by mixing the flour and remainder of the sugar together. Blend the egg into the mixture. Don’t sweat a few lumps. Spread flour, sugar and egg mixture over blueberries. (You can substitute your favorite crust or use a store bought prepared crust or prepared gluten free crust). Drizzle melted butter over the flour, sugar and egg mixture. If necessary, gently heat butter so that it pours. Bake, uncovered, at 400 degrees until it’s golden brown. About 45 minutes. Let rest about 20 minutes. Serve with vanilla ice cream.
Peaches
South Carolina’s peach season starts a bit later than Georgia’s and ends around the same time.
The slightly colder climate of South Carolina means its peaches are ready for harvest further into the summer. The peach harvest in South Carolina lasts from mid-June through late August.
Palmetto Peach Ice Cream Courtesy of Julie Huffman, SC Peach Council
Ingredients 1 ½ pounds South Carolina peaches – peeled, pitted, sliced ½ cup sugar 1 Tablespoon pure vanilla extract 2 cups half and half crème – chilled 1 cup whole milk 1 14 oz can sweetened condensed milk Directions Crush half of the peaches with a potato masher. Slice the remaining peaches into small cuts. Should have 2 ½ to 3 cups. Add sugar and vanilla. Stir and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally. Add cream, milk and condensed milk. Stir to mix. Pour into ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer’s directions.
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Blackberries are an excellent addition to a southeastern garden: they are easy to grow, produce abundant fruits that are delicious, highly nutritious and very healthy (blackberries are among the fruits with a highest antioxidant content). On top of this, they are versatile and can be consumed fresh or used to prepare jellies and classic southern desserts such as blackberry cobbler and pies. Also, currently there are many thornless varieties available that fit very well with the demands of backyard gardeners. How do you know if blackberries are well suited for your backyard garden? As long as they are planted in full sun, and have a well-drained and fertile soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, they will thrive. They should be planted between 3 and 4 feet apart, and all varieties benefit from a trellis or a fence that helps to keep the canes off the ground. Blackberries are perennial shrubs that produce shoots (canes) that live for two years. During the first year of growth, canes are called primocanes (they are typically vegetative); these canes will flower and produce fruit the second year, then they are called floricanes. Floricanes produce fruit for one year and die after fruiting, thus, blackberries always need to be pruned after harvest. Nowadays, there are also primocane-fruiting varieties available: these varieties produce two crops a year as they bear fruit in
Blackberries both primocanes (late summer) and floricanes (late spring, for our conditions in SC). However, a variety trial carried out at Clemson University Musser Fruit Research Farm showed that their yield was considerably poorer than other varieties after the second year. Varieties producing the highest yields under our conditions were Natchez, Navaho, Von, and Osage, followed by other such as Triple Crown, Ouachita and Arapaho. Navaho and Ouachita had some of the highest brix (sugar content) and Prime-Ark® Freedom, a primocane-fruiting variety, had bigger fruit size. - - Contributed by Juan Carlos Melgar, Assistant Professor of Pomology, Horticulture Program Team, Plant and Environmental Sciences Department at Clemson University.
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Blackberry Crumble Bars
Courtesy of Stacey, bake-eat-repeat.com
Ingredients For the Crust: 1 1/4 cups All-Purpose Flour 1/3 cup Granulated Sugar 1/4 teaspoon Salt 1/2 cup Unsalted Butter, Softened and cut into 8 pieces For the Streusel: Reserved Crust Mixture, 1/2 cup, plus 2 tablespoons 2 tablespoons Brown Sugar, Lightly packed 1/2 cup Old Fashioned Rolled Oats 1 tablespoon Unsalted Butter, Softened For the Filling: 2 1/2 cups Blackberries, Cut in half 2 tablespoons Granulated Sugar 3 tablespoons All-Purpose Flour 1/2 tablespoon Lemon Juice Directions Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line an 8 x 8-inch baking dish with foil, leaving an overhang on all sides, and lightly grease the foil. Set aside. In a food processor or stand mixer, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. With the mixer running, add the butter, one piece at a time Process for 1-2 minutes, or until the mixture resembles damp sand. Remove 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons of this mixture and set aside in a medium bowl for the streusel. Press the remaining crumb mixture into the prepared pan, packing it down as tightly and evenly as possible. Bake for 14-18 minutes or until just beginning to brown on the edges. While the crust is baking, prepare the streusel and the filling. For the streusel, add the brown sugar and rolled oats to the reserved crumbs and stir to combine. Add the butter and use your hands to rub the butter into the crumb mixture, squeezing handfuls of the crumbs together so that it clumps into hazelnut-size lumps. Set aside. For the filling, toss together the blackberries, sugar, flour, and lemon juice in a medium bowl until combined. Spread the filling on top of the hot crust. Spread the streusel evenly across the filling. Bake the bars for 25-30 minutes, until the streusel is golden brown and the filling is bubbling around the edges. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely in the pan (1-2 hours) before lifting out by the foil overhang and slicing into bars. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. The bars are best the first day, after that the shortbread crust starts to soften.
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