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Organic Broadcaster | September 2021 | Volume 29, Issue 5

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Organic Farm Practices vs. Crop Insurance Page 5

Pipeline Foods Bankruptcy

Climate-Smart Farming

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Volume 29 | Number 5

Midwest Organic & Sustainable Education Service

September | October 2021

Central Illinois co-op bridges the gap between farmers, institutional buyers By Jeff Hake

An ambitious project is underway in Mt. Pulaski, Illinois. In almost the geographic center of the state, a bit north and east of the state capital, local farmers and food systems advocates have been working with the city to establish a cooperative fresh food processing facility since March 2020. If you feel like you’ve heard of Mt. Pulaski before, it may be from an article in the July/August 2020 issue of the Organic Broadcaster that discussed the city’s successful effort to open a cooperative grocery store on their square, years after their last grocery closed. Central Illinois can seem like both the first and the last place you would expect to see a movement to regrow a local food economy. It seems logical, after all, that one of the world’s most productive agricultural regions would produce tons of food, that its economy would revolve around the success and well-being of its farmers, and that the people there would eat a lot of fresh, local food. But this is the epicenter of Big Ag, focused on row crop production of corn and soybeans by the millions of acres, stretching in every direction. Very little actual food is grown here: Illinois imports 96% of what we eat from outside the state. The small towns of Central Illinois are prototypical examples of rural decline. Through the forces of economics and policies, small towns declined, people moved away, farms got big or got out, and those that remained essentially stopped raising food. What remained was a culture and an economy built around agriculture, and a very specific brand of it, but certainly not around food. Now, the only infrastructure devoted to agriculture

Kaitie Adams is an interim board member of Central Illinois FarmFED Co-op and is the Community Agroforester for Midwest Agroforestry Solutions. Kaitie co-owns Red Crib Acres with her husband, John Williams.

Photo by Jeff Hake

is the rail lines and grain elevators that still serve a purpose for the two crops that occupy nearly all our acreage. So, while Central Illinois can grow huge volumes of incredible food, those crops exist in a vacuum, estranged from the many people who would eat them if they had access to them but instead eat inferior foods brought in from around the world. What we’re trying to do here, then, is really quite

practical. We are attempting to create a missing piece of that food system infrastructure that will raise the ceiling on growth for our small but determined collection of fresh food growers while also letting them do more of the good work they set out to do in the first place: feeding their communities well. Our initial idea is not extravagant. After many Illinois Co-op continues on 6

Building a Grade A Dairy through a second MOSES mentorship By Sarah Woutat

PO Box 339, Spring Valley, WI 54767

NONPROFIT ORG

Cella Langer and Emmet Fisher of Oxheart Farm always knew they wanted to have a dairy as part of their farm, but also knew it would take a lot of infrastructure, and they would have to wait a few years. They both grew up in agriculture, Cella on a homestead in Massachusetts, and Emmet on a diversified vegetable farm in western Wisconsin. After interning on and managing vegetable farms around the country, in 2013 they secured a lease for land in southern Wisconsin. Through the Land Stewardship Project’s Farm

Knowing that dairy was a long-term goal of Cella and Emmet’s, Kat and Tony augmented a visit to Stony Acres with a tour of a neighbor’s Grade A dairy farm, Clover Meadows Family Farm, which sells glass bottled milk and yogurt. Langer recalls, “Touring the dairy farm with Kat and Tony, and that introduction was a huge turning point for us in realizing the dairy dream. It was the first time we had seen, in Wisconsin at a very small scale, a Grade A dairy. This was what we could actually, realistically do! It was very eyeopening and exciting. So, we based our model off of that. We stayed in touch with that farmer and went back to visit once we had started construction of our Cella Langer and Emmet Fisher of Oxheart Farm benefited creamery.” from a MOSES Farmer-to-Farmer mentorship for their Grade In Spring of 2017, Cella and Emmet bought their A dairy. fi rst two bottle calves. “It’s a long process”, said Langer. Photo by Oxheart Farm “We knew we wanted to raise our own calves. Once you buy them, raise them, then wait one and a half years to breed them, and another nine months for Beginnings Program, they mapped out a plan for them to have calves, then leave the calves on, it’s the first few years of their farm: they started with a another two months before you have any milk.” very small vegetable CSA (Community Supported They bought their farm in Hager City, Wisconsin, Agriculture), pastured pork, and meat birds, and sold in 2018. That February, they attended an Organic at the farmers market. After three years they moved University course on Organic Dairy at the MOSES to another piece of rented land, closer to Hager City, Organic Farming Conference taught by Francis Wisconsin. In the winter of 2014, they began Land Stewardship Thicke. After that, they knew that when they were ready for a dairy mentorship, they wanted to work Project’s two-year Journeyperson Course, and in with Francis. February of 2015 were paired with their first MOSES After submitting their plan to the Department of mentors. They had met Kat Becker and Tony Schultz of Ag for pre-approval, Cella and Emmet had the cement Stony Acres Farm at a conference (Kat now owns and operates Cattail Organics) and requested to work with floor for the facility poured on Halloween of 2019. “The plan was to work on it over the winter and start them as mentors with a focus on veggies, pastured meats, and mushrooms. “The mentorship with Kat and selling milk in spring 2020”, Langer shared. “COVID hit and we hadn’t bought our equipment yet, so we Tony was great – we got a lot out of it for our veggie production,” said Langer.

Grade A Dairy continues on 12


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