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environmental impact of

environmental impact impact of

Fast fashion has long dominated the clothing industry, with manufacturers prioritizing low prices and microtrends over environmental degradation and human rights violations. With increasing overconsumption through western throwaway culture and the urge to have the latest trends, a garment’s intrinsic value has been overlooked for convenience.

The Cost of Fast Fashion The Cost of Fast Fashion The Cost of Fast Fashion The Cost of Fast Fashion The Cost of Fast Fashion

By: Casey Gallagher

As the international community becomes more deeply intertwined in the process of globalization, exploitative resource and labor use by those in power has sunk its claws deep into the fashion industry. According to York University’s Department of Biology in “The Environmental Impacts of Fast Fashion on Water Quality: A Systematic Review, “fashion is the second most polluting industry, with an 8% contribution to global carbon emissions in total with an estimated 50% increase in greenhouse gas emissions by 2030. Production processes for fast fashion operations rely on cheap or even unpaid labor overseas, as well as finite water and material resources, which have obvious ethical and environmental implications. However, when considering the full extent of the fast fashion industry’s impact on the planet, it is essential to recognize the inherent socio-political industry structures that have allowed the aforementioned abuses.

The excessive water usage in fast fashion is only one of the major environmental abuses in the industry, but an extremely damaging one nonetheless. The fashion industry consumes one tenth of all water used in industrial processes and factories. This occurs because, according to the Princeton University paper, “The Impact of Fast Fashion on the Environment - PSCI,” it takes up

to 10,000 liters of water to produce one kilogram of cotton and 3,0000 liters to produce a cotton t-shirt. Annually, the fashion industry uses 93 million cubic meters of water and per capita fiber consumption has almost tripled from 1950-2008. Given the even higher rates of global population growth since then and the recent power of online fashion marketing and accessibility, these numbers have grown and will likely continue to grow over time. Massive water usage and toxic cycling of micro-plastics and viscose into larger ecological systems– contaminated volatiles in runoff that interact poorly with natural nitrogen and phosphorus cycles– are extremely destructive forces in the fast fashion industry. Degradation of water quality is just as huge of an issue in fast fashion as excessive water usage is. 20% of the world’s wastewater results from this process and is often toxic and unable to be treated. In fact, over 1,900 chemicals have been identified in textile manufacturing processes, which often contain suspended solids, have dangerously high pH levels beyond an acceptable range, chemical oxygen demand, and turbidity levels.

These characteristics contaminate water through all stages of fashion manufacturing processes. This occurs due to the advancement of globalized capitalism and neo-colonialism in which larger Western nations and corporate actors depend on labor overseas to avoid higher minimum wages and obstructing environmental regulations–something the fast fashion industry is extremely guilty of. Manufacturing in nations that have little to no environmental restrictions and regulations on water treatment has allowed the fast fashion industry to dump millions of gallons of toxic water into precious marine ecosystems and starve the communities they exploit of clean, accessible water. With the advancement of the climate crisis, water availability and accessibility is already threatened–especially for marginalized communities and the global South–and corporations affiliated with the fast fashion industry, or textiles in general, are massively encroaching on the only supply we have now through excessive use and contamination. With the understanding of the contaminant and water usage harm, it is important to draw the distinction between fast fashion specifically

and the industry as a whole. The data surrounding these environmental abuses are largely reflective of the entire industry; however, fast fashion sits at the forefront of this conflict. Fast fashion as a subindustry operates in a manner indicative of the system it perpetuates: advanced global capitalism. Let’s look into the most extreme example: SHEIN. SHEIN is currently the most popular fast fashion brand and “in April, Shein reportedly raised $1 billion to $2 billion in private funding. The company was valued at $100 billion— higher than the combined worth of fastfashion titans H&M and Zara, and higher than that of any private company in the world besides SpaceX and Byte-Dance, the owner of TikTok” (via Wired). The Chinese-born company with over 10,000 employees in China alone has expanded to unprecedented heights of profit and growth, with its main selling point being its affordability and, thus, accessibility. The problem, of course, is that the main customer base of the website includes some of the globally wealthiest nations–the United States, Brazil, France, Spain, and Canada respectively–which is not to say that there are not massive circumstances of economic inequity in nearly all of these nations, but the justification often made for shopping at SHEIN, given its ethical implications, is that it is affordable for low-income shoppers and that there is already “no ethical consumption under capitalism.”

However, when a percentage of SHEIN’s virality can be attributed to $500 TikTok “hauls,” that’s a problem. When the data shows that SHEIN alone emits 6.3 million tons of carbon dioxide per year, that’s a problem. The minority shopping on SHEIN out of genuine necessity, are the absolute least of the problem. What’s worse is that the reason the prices are

so low is because “about ninety percent of the world’s clothing production is outsourced to low- to middle-income countries (LMICs), where these clothing articles are produced cheaply, at low quality, and are then sold at low prices for faster production and subsequent consumption. Without even addressing the litany of more specific labor abuses–data leaks, intellectual property theft, and unsafe chemical usage– it is evident that SHEIN is a perfect example of why fast fashion is so problematic for the health of our planet and people.

In considering all of this, water use is clearly not the only issue embedded in the ethical and environmental abuses of fast fashion. However, the threat posed by the fast fashion industry’s excessive use and contamination of water– all while accessibility is already being limited by climate change– is not a threat to take lightly.

So maybe the next time you’re in search of a hot new wardrobe, give secondhand markets and online sellers a shot. You won’t find the unique pieces, reliable basics, or silly trinkets of your wildest dreams until you give it a try–and hey, the planet will thank you for it!

HOW TO BE A MINIMALIST

I’ve never been one to own many clothes. Since shopping has always stressed me out, I’ve ended up with a pretty limited closet. I’ve had countless struggles trying to find the perfect fit for a night out when seemingly every good piece of clothing I have rots in my dirty laundry bin.

But that all changed around two years ago when I decided to take a gap year and immediately had tons of time on my hands. I discovered The Minimalists: Less is Now, a Netflix documentary by Joshua Fields Millburn and Ryan Nicodemus. I flicked it on, as I already related to the title, being an unwilling minimalist myself. After watching the 53-minute-long film, my dreary perspective on my closet took a 180 turn. I saw my once dull and sparse closet through a new lens. I realized that the clothes I did own, I had for a reason. I loved them! It inspired me to not only maintain this habit, but become more aware of my clothing consumption overall. Despite the total drama I used to make out of my thin wardrobe, I have since gained a newfound

appreciation for creating fun outfits out of what I already own. All of this to say: Here is my quick guide to successfully crafting a minimalist closet you’ll actually love.

Stick to the basics

Albeit simple, this tip has been a gamechanger for my wardrobe. If you have the basics, I promise they will go a long way. You can rewear the same pieces by rotating different tops with various bottoms to create a new look each time. I promise nobody will notice! And so what if they do? Some of my favorite basics are vintage Levi 501s, neutrally toned tank tops, and– although maybe not a basic– fun sunglasses that add a little something to every look.

Only buy what SCREAMS AT YOU

I understand the lingering temptation of wanting to buy every piece of clothing you try on. I really do! But I try to stick to a good rule of thumb: put the clothes that you’re unsure of back on the rack. If it fits a little too snug or is a bit out of my style range, I’ve practiced self-control by not bringing it to the

checkout counter. “Ehh maybe I’ll wear it” is no longer a good enough reason to swipe my card!

Donate, donate, donate

Now, once you have a closet you’re content with, it is important to steer clear of the stockpile. One rule I’ve followed is to donate one piece of clothing for every new item I introduce into my closet. This simple practice not only grants you the opportunity to be mindful of your purchasing patterns, but also passes clothes along to those who may actually wear them! If you’re looking for a local spot to donate your clothes to, I highly recommend checking out our free and affordable clothes guide.

Keep your clothes visible & accessible

Let’s be honest, when your closet is a mess it can be a challenge to find any outfit–let alone one that you’re proud to wear out! When you keep your closet nice and tidy, however, you can actually see all your lovely clothes! Crazy concept, I know. Taking the

time to peruse all of your options allows you to envision each and every fashionable combination. When it’s hidden under a pile or tucked away in a corner, I promise that you’ll forget you even own it. I incorporated this tip into my own life by rolling my clothes instead of folding them on top of each other in my drawers. This way, I can see all of my items at once and maybe even bring out a piece I’ve been neglecting.

Get creative!

One of my favorite things to do with my closet is play around with different colors and patterns. It can be fun to form outfits you haven’t previously worn, or even find new ways to wear old clothes. I’m on a mission to start using this technique more by layering my outfits to elevate them.

Although the thought of embarking on a journey to pare down your wardrobe may seem daunting, it will create a new sense of connection to the clothes that you choose to keep. Minimalist closets offer a new way to get creative with our fashion, and encourage us to be mindful of our clothing consumption.

Daisy Cunningham

THRIFTING ETHICALLY: 3 KEY MANTRAS

BY MAXWELL WILKENS

It’s no secret that thrifting is on the rise – and not just in Santa Barbara. According to secondhand apparel vendor and research group Thredup, secondhand retail generated $119 billion worldwide in 2022, up from $96 billion in 2021. With 73% of consumers in the United States having either thrifted or expressed an interest in thrifting, it’s time to have that necessary “keep your arms and legs inside the vehicle at all times” conversation (minus the outrageous southern drawl that they do before Disney’s Thunder Mountain).

Whether you just tag along with your thrift-savvy friends or view secondhand apparel as your second religion, here are three tips to maximize sustainability and support for atneed communities while traversing the expanding world of thrifting.

Avoid Purchasing Essential Items

It's one thing if you’ve been eyeing that pink boa and want to make an investment in the future of your fabulousness –speaking from personal experience here, of course. But before heading to the checkout line, remind yourself that a lot of folks rely on secondhand stores for essential items like socks, underwear, and business attire. While an increased interest in thrifting is all well and good, it has caused secondhand apparel prices to go up significantly in the last couple of years, which makes these once-budget vendors less viable options for at-need communities.

When November rolls around, that coat on aisle two may feel like the crowning jewel of your immaculate winter outfit. And, yes, it’s true that

Avoid Purchasing In Excess

Thrifting is often touted as something that contributes to environmental sustainability, and for good reason: if you purchase something secondhand, you’re extending its life before its trip to a landfill. Best of all, you look like hot stuff while doing it.

powerhouse that would make the Dalai Lama proud.

Goodwill - The Bottom Line - and Local Alternatives

those sneakers would accentuate your ankles and make all the eighteenthcentury venetian suitors come running, but –for somebody of less economic fortune – that bargain footwear or down winter coat may offer more serious merit. Your hobby may be another’s necessity.

Before hitting the checkout aisle, give yourself a second to think about your closet. If you already have a plethora of similar items, maybe you should pop it back on the rack.

At the end of the day, I can promise you that the Purple Rain tee-shirt is calling your name (and, no, being a Prince fan is not a prerequisite to sport the wicked purple motorcycler across your bosom). But ask yourself first whether somebody else may need an affordable essential

But it’s important to remember your contribution to sustainability can only function if you don’t buy out the whole store. Facetiousness aside, if you always walk away from thrifting with your arms full, it may be time to reconsider your purchasing patterns: too many clothes is too many clothes – period – even if you didn’t buy them off the retail rack. Just because you could shove another layered and laden hanger onto your already congested closet rod doesn’t mean that you should!

All said, this doesn’t mean you can’t treat yourself from time to time (as you should, you handsome devil). But it’s important to practice moderation and maximize the options already in your inventory so your closet space doesn’t turn into the subject of some horrible TLC show (you know which one). For recommendations on how to turn your closet space into a minimalist

Alright, time to give credit where credit is due: whoever came up with the name “Goodwill” deserves a gold star. How can a place with a name like that be anything other than perfectly philanthropic?

Goodwill has caught a lot of vicious publicity for false claims – like that the CEO has a multimillion dollar salary and spends his time spitting on orphans (okay, maybe scratch that last part). Regardless, the nonprofit is certainly not without imperfections: thousands of disabled workers at Goodwill are paid under a dollar an hour because the company capitalizes on a federal legal loophole. Doesn’t quite live up to the name, does it? Even further, the popularity of big chain stores like Goodwill often takes from the margins of locally owned secondhand businesses.

Armed with these guidelines, enjoy turning one man’s junk into another man’s treasure, with a mind at ease knowing that you’re making a positive difference all the while!

Here’s the bottom line. It’s not the end of the world if

if you want to dip your toes into the Goodwill pool. Nobody’s going to crucify you if you hit up Starbucks instead of your local brewers, either, but we all know by now that the bigger the company, the less control you have over where your money ends up. In all honesty, your time will likely be better spent perusing some of the mom-andpop secondhand apparel stores right here in Goleta.

Consider following @uncommonthrifts on Instagram: they aim to educate budding fashionistas on conscious consumption and environmental sustainability. If you want to get a little weirder, @thriftstoreart pairs uncanny thrifted finds with personal insults (trust me on this one).

LAYOUT BY LAUREN BRYANT

UPCYCLE

These methods can allow you to fix jewelry and create new pieces altogether. Following these steps allows you to create multiple designs and styles. Here are some ideas!

Discovering Embroidery

Natalia Aiello

While I learned how to embroider at a young age, it didn’t become a passion until I felt a longing for a more unique, eco-conscious wardrobe. A few years ago, I really wanted a Nike shirt but I couldn’t find one that was in my price range as a broke high school student. This dilemma finally culminated in a trip to the crafts store. I bought a bunch of new thread, needles, and even an embroidery hoop! I quickly began to sketch the logo and workshop di ff erent approaches. After a long week of careful handwork, it came out even better than I expected. To add to its individuality, I added some other small designs to really tie the piece together. Through this experience, embroidery became a creative outlet for me to experiment and express myself while saving money and being mindful of my ecological footprint.

The Basics

To get started with embroidery, all you need is embroidery string and needles, scissors, a hoop (optional), and your design! Another important aspect to consider when sourcing your materials is utilizing pre-loved products. This means sourcing already used clothing, fabrics, and string rather than newly purchased products. When utilizing these secondhand items you are not only saving money, but you are also saving it from the landfill! I recommend hitting up Art From Scrap– our local secondhand art store– for all of your embroidery needs before looking elsewhere.

Choosing a Design

I would have to say that choosing a design is my favorite part of the entire embroidery process. The world is your oyster at this moment! Initially, before I did research on fabric design, I would cut out my own stencils and draw a design in pen first. While I’ll always have a sentimental soft spot for those early embroidery days, I now prefer to draw a design and use transfer paper. Either way works!

Hand Sewing

Hand sewing is a great option because anyone can partake in it. No sewing machine is required, especially if you’re on a budget. Embroidery string usually consists of 6 strands weaved together and the amount of strands you decide to use affects your embroidery. Essentially the more strands you use, the thicker your stitches will be. Personally, I like to thread the needle using 3 strands at a time so I have moderate thickness but can still stitch intricate designs. After threading your needle, make sure to tie a knot at the needle and on the other side of the thread so your stitches stay intact. The ‘running stitch’ is the most common one, which involves bringing the needle in one side of the fabric and out the other. Although, there is a huge variety of stitches to learn in order to accomplish the design that resonates with you. Get to googling!

IF YOU TAKE CARE OF YOUR CLOTHES THEY WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU

A great way to slow down your consumption in fashion is to use what you already have! While it sounds simple, keeping your clothes in good condition is the key to a timeless wardrobe. Here are some tips on how to give your clothes that tender love and care that they so desperately need. After all, reusing is reducing!

Before we get started, please always check the tags in your clothing. Usually, there will be instructions that tip you off on the best way to care for the item. But don’t worry if you can’t find that

magical tag. That’s why I’m here! Leather

Leather is definitely a more sensitive fabric– yes, even pleather. Be sure to wipe down your leather item with a damp washcloth when it gathers dust in your closet. Whatever you do, avoid putting it in the washing machine! The more you wash your leather, the less use you’re going to get out of it! Your best bet is always going to be using leather cleaner or a plain old dish rag. Less is more when it comes to keeping your leather looking fresh.

Suede

Never use water! Did you read that right? NEVER USE WATER! As impractical as it may sound, you should never get your suede clothes or shoes anywhere near water. Don’t even think about jumping in that puddle! Water effectively ruins suede by making the fabric’s leathery ‘hairs’ stiff and brittle. This is a surefire way to make your suede look worn down by the second wear. To be honest, avoiding cleaning suede entirely is your best bet. But if you really need to spiff them up, use a small dot of shampoo on a damp towel. Suede is hard to maintain, but not impossible! But please, be sure to check the weather forecast before slipping on those boots.

Denim

Washing your denim in cold water will help the denim stay the correct size and keep the color from fading. Although denim can be a pretty easy fabric to care for, there are still some ways to get more wear out of that favorite pair of jeans. Letting your denim air dry after a cold water wash is going to keep the denim looking nice and new. For the love of God, avoid fabric softeners. For the best results, wash the item inside out!

care to make the most out of your purchase. Be sure to not put your silk clothing in the dryer, but also don’t dry it in direct sunlight! Air drying it on a hanger inside is likely the best approach. Never (ever) wash with bleach, as this will effectively ruin the fabric. Cool, dry and dark are conditions that suit silk the best.

Velvet

Velvet is another fabric that is known for being a bit tricky to maintain. But when it looks as cool and bewitching as velvet tends to, it’s worth it! First, don’t apply pressure to velvet when it’s wet; this will pull apart the fabric and trust me, you don’t want to do that. To keep it in its prime, hang your clothing up in a well-ventilated area after your wear. Whatever you do… Never. Iron. Velvet! If you follow these simple instructions, your velvet pieces will look as good as new!

Hopefully, you can keep your clothing in your closet for years with these simple care tips. It’s never fun to say goodbye to your favorite pieces in your wardrobe– so don’t!

Silk

Silk is a very delicate fabric. It also tends to run on the expensive side, so it’s important to take good

hot ticket UCSB

On every UCSB student’s graduation bucket list is getting their outfit posted onto the sneaky street style Instagram page, Hot Ticket. As the owners of the account sit outside the Arbor each day, hundreds of UCSB students pass by waiting to get their picture taken. We got an (anonymous) insiders’ interview with the minds behind the biggest street fashion page on campus. Read on to learn about what fashion at UCSB means to the elusive fit finders.

Q: How was Hot Ticket born?

A: Hot Ticket was a very spontaneous idea that was born from our love of fashion and people-watching. We were just sitting on the grass in front of the arbor eating lunch one day and we liked seeing the different outfits that people were wearing. We thought it would be a fun idea to document those outfits and make it into an Instagram page!

Q: What was your reaction to your account’s fast growth on Instagram?

A: Honestly, we were so excited and happy that people enjoyed what we were doing. We get to show everyone what their fellow classmates are wearing! We didn’t expect it at all and honestly thought nobody else would care, but we have been pleasantly surprised.

Q: What style tends to catch your eye when sitting at the arbor?

A: We really like to see when people are creative with their outfits. We appreciate simple but cohesive styles too. There’s definitely a trend of vintage pieces, cool shoes, interesting knits, skirts, dresses, and accessories that are featured on our page, so I guess that’s what usually sticks out to us! We also love to see elevated basics, but we really appreciate all looks. It’s so interesting to see people showcase their own unique style!

Q: What happens when people catch you taking their picture?

A: Nothing, usually! We sometimes will make eye contact and the reactions are different every time! Some people just keep walking and some people smile at us! We’d love to interact with everyone more though.

Q: Do you notice a lot of seemingly vintage or thrifted fashion in the UCSB community?

What's Really Behind The Fit Finders Account

A: Definitely! We have a lot of great thrift stores in town and the fashion community is always growing! Organizations like IV Trading Post do lots of great events that promote sustainability and the recirculation of clothing! We also love all of the little pop-up vintage markets and sellers in Isla Vista.

Q: Do you tend to look more for trendy or original styles? Why?

A: We don’t really look for anything specific. We just love when people just communicate their personal style through the outfits they wear to school! We like to showcase different styles, no matter if it’s trendy!

Q: Do you notice or can you tell when people are walking by with a unique outfit waiting to get posted on Hot Ticket?

A: It was more noticeable when Hot Ticket was starting to get more popular. Now, we just take pictures of whoever walks by, and we don’t tend to notice whether they are intentional.

Q: What’s your favorite aspect of running the beloved Hot Ticket?

A: Our favorite aspect of running Hot Ticket is the fashion community we’ve fostered through this page. It’s been great to see so many people caring more about fashion and getting inspiration from their classmates and even professors! The love and support we’ve gotten from our followers has been incredible and we want to thank every single person who’s looked at our page and enjoyed the content we post!

If you’re dreaming of a Hot Ticket feature, this is all you need to know. Be yourself, as Hot Ticket is looking for your fashionable self-expression! We can thank the mystery creators behind Hot Ticket for sparking such a genuine excitement for fashion across campus.

As the fit finders revealed in our exclusive interview, practicing sustainability can be a great way to build a unique wardrobe. Maybe you’ll even snag a feature on @hotticket_UCSB!

Shawn Wilke

Overworn t-shirts, early 2000s low rise jeans, the “Moo Direction” shirt from the little girls section (context: a strange One Direction parody tee I wear far too often)... Any variation of these unprepossessing clothes are what can be found inside the depths of your local thrift store.

My first visit to the thrift store was the summer before my freshman year of high school. I remember it vividly. I had watched hours of trendy YouTubers showing off their finds in thrift haul

an ode to the thrift

vlogs, yet I never saw the same piece twice. I was drawn to the seemingly infinite mysteries held inside the store.

This bubble burst quickly when I discovered that thrifting isn’t as easy as the influencers make it look. It’s an art. Sifting through clothes, going from rack to rack, feels similar to mixing just the right paints to reach the perfect shade. It takes time to figure out how to find the good stuff. I was amazed by the pools of clothing on

my first thrift trip, but I lacked the skill. I left the store 10 dollars down, with a pile of oversized tees that I haven’t touched since. Despite my amateur approach and subpar results, I fell in love.

It may sound weird– to be in love, to find peace in a store full of used clothes that have been god knows where. But quite frankly, that’s what I found so special. With daily restocks, there was an endless supply of new clothes to discover. Each piece of clothing I found in the overcrowded store– no matter how old or new– had a life before it ended up in my hands. I relished that experience.

Feeling like myself while in the thrift store is one thing, but finding myself was another. Take an old t-shirt, for example, in the back of the store. It’s green (not a gross green) but a lime green that most people would put back on the rack instinctively. It’s falling off its hanger, stuffed behind all of the others.

Freshman year of high school, I was that tee nearly slipping from the hanger. I couldn’t seem to find my place, whether it was at school or with friends. Mostly, I didn’t know myself. Still, I’d run out of school each day and straight into the holy land, where millions of shirts and jackets waited for me, barely hanging on. As I swept through them, careful to not to let them slip, I knew that all they needed was some love and care, a little push back onto the rack. I knew that all I needed was a new outfit– a new way of expressing myself– to get me through the school year. A small push.

The clothes in the thrift store were that push for me. That year, as my thrifting skills improved, my outfits began to warp who I thought I was. “I love your shirt, where’d you get it?” became a common question I faced as I began to show up to school in far from typical garb. I’d never felt more like myself in outfits that only cost a few dollars! I felt wanted in all the places I stood in, solely because of my decades-old, worn out, beloved thrifted clothing.

Ever since that first day in my local thrift store, I’ve gone back each week searching for something: a new story for myself, brought to me by someone else.

6 Questions for Savanah Haigg 6 Questions for Savanah Haigg

Daisy Cunningham

I recently had the pleasure to sit down with a dear friend and ultimate fashion inspiration, Savanah Haigg to talk about her blossoming career as a sustainable stylist.Sav’s unique wardrobe and ability to pull together oneof-a-kind outfits using solely secondhand pieces is something that deserves to be shared with the world of sustainable fashion!

How would you describe your personal style?

I don’t feel like I have a personal style. I feel like I’m kind of all over the place with things that I’m attracted to. But I feel deliberate in the sense of intentionally putting certain things together when it comes to textures, styles, and colors. Everything I do is very intentional. Style-wise, I think I’m just out of the box in the sense that I like pairing things that shouldn’t go together, and making them kind of go together.

What initially attracted you to styling?

So I was a model for a while, and photographers kept asking me to bring my own clothes to my shoots. I knew nothing about styling at the time, or what pieces to bring for photoshoots. Once I started getting my pictures back, I would realize that the outfits weren’t the best. Styling is so important, and no one really talks about that. So I thought, why don’t I try styling? And do it in a sustainable way using statement pieces that no one else has? I started with that, and it grew into me being hired for it.

What attracted you to styling thrifted clothes?

When I saw models and photographers buy new pieces just for them to be worn once, I thought about the waste of it all. I wanted to reuse clothes that already had a story. I had also been thrifting since I was 8, as my dad and I would always go to vintage stores together. I’ve always been pulled towards vintage and thrifted clothing that stands out. So when I decided to get into styling, secondhand clothing was the obvious choice for me. I continue to prove to myself that I only need thrifted clothes! It was a way to make the shoots sustainable and creative.

Is there a method you use to pick out thrifted pieces? And if so do you mind sharing it with us?

When picking out clothes for myself, I look for textures and patterns I haven’t seen or worn before. I have collected pieces in my wardrobe that I genuinely feel like not a lot of people have. But, I also keep an eye out for basics that I might need, as I feel like basics can be overlooked at thrift stores! I’ll also look at the quality, and of course, fun patterns.

When I’m picking out clothes for photoshoots that I’m styling, I get inspiration pictures from photographers. If it’s a seventies theme, then I would go looking for the same type of colors, textures, whatever. Styling for shoots is a little harder as you’re thinking about the elements of one specific outfit, not an entire closet. When I’m thrifting, I try to imagine what I’d wear pair certain items witht. I’ve trained myself from thinking ‘this is a cool shirt’ to ‘would this look cohesive with that skirt?’

Can you distinguish between vintage/ quality pieces and fast fashion in thrift stores? Obviously tags, but are there other ways to tell?

One hundred percent. I really don’t care about tags, to be honest. It’s all about the texture, feeling, and quality when I’m going through the racks. Of course, fast fashion is super cheaply made, and conversely, I can feel the quality of good vintage pieces. I feel like everything from the early 2000s and earlier tends to be good quality. You can definitely feel the quality difference.

Weight has a lot to do with it, too. Cheaply-made clothing feels more synthetic and you can tell if you were to wash it wrong, it would just disintegrate. There are some fast

fashion pieces that I’ve thrifted, like Forever 21, because only because it’s secondhand! You’re not adding to the fast fashion part of it, and instead elongating its lifespan before it hits the landfill. Of course, I am going to be stoked if I find some rare cool vintage piece. But if I like something and it’s Forever 21, I’m gonna get it!

You have such a cool and unique style! Do you have any tips for how people can amplify their outfits? The number one tip is to utilize accessories! Wearing rings, bracelets, necklaces, and sunglasses, is a huge elevation. You can wear jeans and a T-shirt, but add bracelets and glasses and it will change from night to day! I also love layering. If you put one more piece on than you normally would– like adding a vest or a scarf– it can totally change the outfit for the better. I’ve been doing two or three belts recently instead of one, which has been a lot of fun. I would also suggest to look closely at the colors in the details of your clothes. Matching those underlying colors with other pieces in your outfit can bring it all together. I’ve also been super into breaking some fashion rules recently. I’ve worn a snow hat with a skirt, which you would think totally wouldn’t work together. But if the colors complement each other and there’s a bunch of textures in the outfit, it brings out something that’s super fun andunique. Whenever I put together an outfit, I think: would anyone ever wear this? I’ve found that the times I get the most compliments on my clothes are also the times that I feel the most uncomfortable. So learning to push yourself and leave the house, even if it’s not what you feel 100% comfortable in, is something that I’ve been learning to do more.

So I thought, why don’t I try styling... and do it in a sustainable way

The Phenomenon of Resellers & $

As the popularity of secondhand shopping has exploded in the past decade, online product resale has emerged as a major function of this phenomenon. With this has come a cultural shift in the relationship between consumers, resellers, and retailers in which online resellers become entire firms of their own. With the availability of so many

platforms for product resale–Depop, Poshmark, The RealReal, Mercari, just to name a few– resale has become a massive industry of its own, with a projected $51 million market by this year. This cultural phenomenon has been met with considerable controversy. A primary complaint from the secondhand community is that while reselling is certainly a sustainable choice compared to the fast fashion industry, buying excessively for the sole purpose of reselling is not a sustainable choice, as it removes inventory and helps to raise prices. Maxine Bédat, founder of New Standard Institute (a think tank focused on the sustainable development of the fashion industry) echoes this point of discontent by arguing “that [the resale] business model, from an environmental point of view, is only successful if it leads to that piece of clothing being worn more. If it’s just to make more purchases and not extend the life of a garment, then that business model is not in service of the environment. The potential downside is that we’re

flipping our clothes all the time and the trend is still part of it — we think that we’re doing something great but the planet doesn’t care about the marketing. It only sees whether we’re utilizing our resources for a longer period of time” (via HighSnobiety). Given these complications, let’s unpack the confounding variables that make the rise of resale fashion such a complex point of discourse. Let’s start with the positives. Product resale has been an extremely crucial force in shifting the cultural demand to seek out more secondhand clothing. Whether it’s online or at thrift shops, the rise in secondhand fashion within younger generations is undeniable. According to Forbes, “37% of Gen Z shop resale, compared to 27% of millennials and 19% of baby boomers” (via Forbes). Not only are people feeling more inclined to shop sustainably, but websites like Depop have greatly increased the accessibility to highquality secondhand clothes. This is an important equalizing agent that can contribute to greater equity and

accessibility in fashion. This equity can be increased furthermore by the considerable presence of luxury fashion in secondhand markets.

Websites like ‘The RealReal’ provide opportunities for people to buy lightly used luxury goods affordably, creating a platform on the basis of increasing equity in luxury markets. Another positive about the resale

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market is that it redirects profits from fast fashion and exploitative corporations. Although a lot of retail clothing being resold comes from major brands and corporations, the difference is that the profit and market is now in the hands of the people, allowing resellers to own at least a bit more of the means of production than previously possible. This brings shoppers closer to independence from exploitative corporate firms. Buying secondhand from resellers is also convenient for those who follow fashion trends, but don’t want to buy from fast fashion

retailers who are profiting off of the microtrend cycle. The most obvious advantages of all of this are the climate- and resource-related benefits of buying secondhand. Buying secondhand is more carbon neutral than buying retail, especially considering that fashion is the second-most polluting industry, with issues such as excessive water use and contamination, material misuse, labor abuses, and more. What is unfortunate about specifically online resellers is that the carbon emitted from shipping long distances is much greater than that of going to a local store. However, the overall carbon cost of delivering products from overseas sellers to domestic sellers, the domestic sellers to storefronts, and the additional potential costs of driving to go buy the item or to have it delivered, as seen in the fast fashion industry, is considerably higher than in resale processes. Additionally, buyers of secondhand clothing have become increasingly motivated by environmental protection benefits to do so. According to consumer surveys from the Boston Consulting Group, “while half of the respondents to our 2022 survey cited affordability and value as the number one reason for buying secondhand, this number has fallen markedly from 2019 and 2020. Sustainability is an increasingly popular driving force for purchasing secondhand clothing, as is the thrill of the hunt and the

opportunity to barter with sellers. Product variety remains important and is still the second biggest driver behind secondhand consumption, no doubt powered by the increasing popularity of resale apps” (via BCG).

On the other hand, the emerging resale industry has some conflicts in its abuse of purpose. Secondhand shopping emerged as a resource for low income communities to afford necessities, but its recent evolution into a popular phenomenon within the fashion industry has had quite a compelling effect on the rise of sustainable fashion. However, when resellers actively manipulate markets by scooping up a wholesale stock at full price just to upcharge by more than double the original price, or flip little girls’ clothes–that children need– for trendy “baby tees,” then the entire grounding of the phenomenon feels a bit compromised. Of course, this is not reflective of the entire reselling community and is typically found in more luxurious sectors, like sneakers or streetwear, rather than in areas of necessity. It is also true that individual resellers are not responsible for secondhand corporations, such as Goodwill, taking advantage of thrifting’s rising popularity by raising prices. Unfortunately, regardless of whose fault it is that the market is moving, it is moving to a higher price range nonetheless. This disproportionately

and negatively impacts low income communities whom these institutions were originally created to provide for. Hopefully as the industry progresses, resale outlet popularity will foster more inclusivity by breaking stigmas surrounding shopping secondhand instead of pushing more people out of affording basic necessities. If not, then low income communities will be forced to depend on fast fashion. Regardless of if the ethical principles behind what online resale has advanced to are on a steady foundation, it is undeniable that a cultural shift toward secondhand shopping is an extremely positive development in the fashion industry. With online fast fashion giants like SHEIN and Aliexpress bulldozing through trend cycles with the dirt cheap prices, it is comforting to see that a movement is occurring alongside in the direction of sustainability. Although this rising industry must recognize and rectify its issues before they are permanently ingrained in its foundation, the recent years have been so major for resale products and its impact on the secondhand market has been unquestionably essential for advancing the world toward more mindful consumerism.

Wearable Art: a conversation with @asch_reclaimed

What’s significant about your brand’s name, and the word ‘reclaimed’? Why did you choose that name and what do you hope to convey to your audience?

I can’t use the word ‘reclaimed’ for my brand, without including ‘Asch,’ my last name. It has a dual meaning: I’m taking something that someone has thrown away, donated, or given away, and reclaiming it to give it a new life. I like to say, “from the ashes, a Phoenix rises,” because it takes something burning down–or in this case, someone using it before– in order to rise up stronger.

On a personal note, I’m named after my grandfather, Mark Asch, who emigrated from Poland to America in order to escape the Holocaust. I never got the chance to meet him because he died when my dad was 20, so sometimes I feel like I’m reclaiming his legacy too since he had to change his last name when he moved.

What experiences led you to start shopping secondhand?

I was dressed by my mom for a long time, and then at some point, in late middle school or early high school, I looked at myself and was like, ‘Oh my god I look like a dweeb.’ So that’s when I knew I needed to start fitting myself. I think I just didn’t like going to the mall with my mom and sister because it would drag on for hours. I’m from Boston so instead, I started to go thrifting with my friends in Cambridge or Austin to check out Buffalo Exchanges and Savers. I have a lot of good memories going to Savers with my friends and picking out clothes we thought were cool.

When did you begin to gain interest from other people for your work? Were people asking you to make new items for them?

It started with people just complimenting me on my clothes or asking me where I got them from, and I would tell them I upcycled it for myself. It started with close friends who were like, “Can you make this for me?” but then other people started to express interest in purchasing my upcycled clothes. Once I started to get requests for customs, I began selling my stuff online.

Give us a rundown of what sustainability means to you; and what does ‘closing the loop,’ means to you?

Not to mince words, but sustainability in fashion, to me, is a clusterfuck. The fashion industry is a microcosm of all the problems izn our culture, including so many different intersectional issues; social, racial, economic, etc. I don’t think we need any more clothes made– the waste in the fashion industry is crazy!

It’s a linear system in which clothes are made to go to waste and that’s just what we do. It represents a normative issue about our cultural values and what we value as a society. Why are we such consumers? I feel like North America has a global role to play because we set the example for a lot of industrialized countries. You don’t have people in the global South wasting or contributing to climate change at our rate, but they’re disproportionately experiencing its impacts. That realization was a big wake-up moment for me.

At what point were you interested in making your own clothes using the things you thrifted? Your pieces take cues from workwear brands, but what exactly are you normally looking to add or change to your clothes?

I’d say the biggest thing for me is functionality, and I always want more pockets! I found this fanny pack at a thrift store and thought it’d be cool if I sewed it onto a hoodie or onto a pant pocket. So I sewed it onto some pants a few years ago during COVID, which led me to start customizing clothing for myself. The biggest thing about fast fashion is that it’s cheaply made and therefore not durable. I would say I get a lot of inspiration from workwear brands like Carhartt and Ben Davis, which last so long as they’re made out of good materials.

Where and how do you source the materials you use?

I’ll get fanny packs, satchels, or pockets that are already made, and just sew them onto stuff that I find. I’ll just think, ‘Oh, this would be cool if I just stuck that on there.’ If I’m doing a custom order for something specific, I’ll look on eBay, but it can take a while to find the right pieces. In general, I usually get scraps from thrift stores and the Goodwill bins. I love the element of searching for materials because you never know what you’re going to find, and I think that’s what makes it so engaging and interesting for me.

Do you have any source of inspiration or do you kind of just go with the flow?

It’s usually the spur of the moment. Since graduating, I’ve put a lot more time into it. I get a lot of inspiration from nature and I think I want my visual identity to be in the realm of scientific communication, through these kinds of these natural motifs. I’ve started to take pictures of all the clothes, fabrics, pockets, and patches I have, and I’ll put them into Photoshop to piece them together and to see what fabrics I like. That has really helped me with my process. I think creativity for me is like problem-solving, and the cool thing about what I do is that I challenge myself. You can get a manufacturer to make whatever you want, but it’s fun to be like: ‘Okay, these are the materials I’m limited with; these are the pieces I’m limited with, what can I make like out of this?’

local craftsmen

Madeline Cooper

@junk__drawer is the creative endeavor of resident Isla Vistan, Rachel Fadel. The third year UCSB student sells self-proclaimed “fashionable trash” of all varieties. From handmade jewelry to upcycled clothes to crocheted hats, this lady has it all! Rachel often sells her goods at local popups and vendor fairs, which she loves for their local community feel. The craftsman prides herself on her use of secondhand materials, sourcing everything from thrift stores or her own home.

@Junk__drawer was born when Rachel found herself crocheting custom hats for her friends and family. As the demand grew, she grew bored of creating the same item, as well as running to Michael’s each time for new yarn. In her best words, buying brand new materials “started to feel really gross.” Understandable! Rachel quickly pivoted to sourcing her materials from scraps and hasn’t looked back since. One of her most creative goods are rice bag purses and totes, made from recycled rice bags and other scraps.

Above all, Rachel wants you to know the importance of closing the loop. Think twice before sending your next empty rice bag to the landfill!

Cielo Gamboa began experimenting with jewelry creation and fashion styling at a young age, now manifested in her brand @essence.of.amphritite on Instagram. During COVID, she began making necklaces with a friend as a way to get more creative during quarantine. “I felt that creative bug! Both me and my friend are pisces you know.” Soon her hobby turned into a small business here in IV, where she started making unique custom pieces for her friends based off of their energy.

She transferred to UCSB from Seattle to bathe in the sunshine and creative energy from other students here on campus. “I love how many people make so many different things, it’s not just jewelry and crochet. I saw someone yesterday making their own surf wax! That’s what I love about the community of creatives in IV!” Most of the beads that she works with were gifted to her from a family friend, along with the tools used to make her beautiful necklaces. Her necklaces are all one of a kind, meaning you will never find the same piece anywhere ever!

Cielo focuses on sustainability within her business ventures, trying to source beads and other materials from small Etsy and local shops. She reuses old necklaces from thrift stores and repurposes them, incorporating old beads into new pieces to find new homes. As a fashion club member, Cielo had the chance to showcase some of her necklaces in the Spring Runway show, including a new experimental body chain piece.

The price range for the necklaces vary based on length and intricacy, ranging from $20 to $45 dollars. Cielo recently realized the importance of being paid for her artistry and labor, when it comes to creative businesses. “It is worth it to someone and it is worth it to me.” Since the necklaces are all unique, they are like art that decorates the body like a museum. “It’s basically art, and people can wear art. Wear it if it goes with an outfit or have it in your jewelry box for the rest of your life! It’s art!”

@Abaloneave is an up-and-coming jewelry brand that prioritizes sustainability first and foremost. UCSB third year Whitney Nester created Abalone Ave, beautiful seaside inspired jewelry, with a little help of her housemate Emmy Gorber.

Abalone Avenue was named after Whitney’s grandparents house in Newport Beach, off of Abalone Ave where she spent summers growing up, selling crafted glitter seashells off the seawall to tourists and locals. “Abalone shells follow me everywhere. After studying abroad I visited New Zealand, and every place I visited had an abalone shell even away from the shore.”

Whitney teamed up with her housemate Emmy, who had prior knowledge in metal working, to release a line of sterling silver sea glass rings that are water and tarnish resistant. Her jewelry takes direct inspiration from the ocean, honoring its beauty and femininity. “I don’t really wear makeup, so I decorate myself using jewelry. It adds a piece of feminine energy to my everyday style.”

Whitney and Emmy create sterling and gold plated earrings, gemstone necklaces, and sea glass rings at a moderate price. Abalone Ave sources their materials from etsy shops for good quality metals from native vendors, local gem sellers here in Santa Barbara, and unrecycled material found off of Isla Vista’s beaches. “I love using my own finds. It is fun to have something that is unique and special that no one else has.”

Whitney uses 100% compostable packaging for shipped orders and drawstring bags for local orders, but she hopes to upcycle old thrifted materials for her packaging in the future! In her own sustainable journey, Whitney has been vegan for 5 years and shops conscientiously through second hand thrift stores. “Sustainability is doing as much and the best that you can to reduce your impact on the environment.”

Sierra Schumann is a Comm major from Encinitas, CA whose created @sloopyclothing, a line of sweatshirts, t-shirts, and tanks (you name it), with screen printed designs. She took screen-printing classes in high school incorporate her love of art onto clothing. Sierra continued to create clothing here in IV, “as a perfect way to express my creativity while connecting with my community.” After starting a depop account in middle school, Sierra’s business almost on accident, developing into a brand distinct to Isla Vista.

Creativity serves as Sierras driving force, where her business reworking old clothing came after. Sierra describes her style and business something that is organic, “I am always looking for creative ways to be resourceful, explore new places, and think outside the box to try things (for fun or for my business) in an unconventional manner.” Her style is natural and freeflowing, leaving sun-bleached-esque designs that would put some artwork in the MOMA to shame! Some of her best creations were designed accidentally, just by experimenting with a new method or resource within her production process.

@Sloopyclothing can be found at pop up sales for GreeksGoGreek, Surfrider concerts, Thriftopia, and sometimes in front of the Arbor! Clothing prices can range from $15 to $50 depending on the article of clothing. To promote sustainability, Sierra can paint items you already own, a small price range from 1030 dollars.

Sierra has seen people all over campus wearing her designs, connecting her to a much larger community on UCSB’s campus. Her business fosters new connections with fellow students and vendors. For the future, Sierra plans to take it day-by-day, letting her business take her wherever it leads her. @Sloopyclothing is apart of Sierra, “I don’t know where this will lead me in the future, but I cannot imagine ever not doing Sloop.”