The Phenomenon of Resellers & $

As the popularity of secondhand shopping has exploded in the past decade, online product resale has emerged as a major function of this phenomenon. With this has come a cultural shift in the relationship between consumers, resellers, and retailers in which online resellers become entire firms of their own. With the availability of so many platforms for product resale–Depop, Poshmark, The RealReal, Mercari, just to name a few– resale has become a massive industry of its own, with a projected $51 million market by this year. This cultural phenomenon has been met with considerable controversy. A primary complaint from the secondhand community is that while reselling is certainly a sustainable choice compared to the fast fashion industry, buying excessively for the sole purpose of reselling is not a sustainable choice, as it removes inventory and helps to raise prices. Maxine Bédat, founder of New Standard Institute (a think tank focused on the sustainable development of the fashion industry) echoes this point of discontent by arguing “that [the resale] business model, from an environmental point of view, is only successful if it leads to that piece of clothing being worn more. If it’s just to make more purchases and not extend the life of a garment, then that business model is not in service of the environment. The potential downside is that we’re flipping our clothes all the time and the trend is still part of it — we think that we’re doing something great but the planet doesn’t care about the marketing. It only sees whether we’re utilizing our resources for a longer period of time” (via HighSnobiety). Given these complications, let’s unpack the confounding variables that make the rise of resale fashion such a complex point of discourse. Let’s start with the positives. Product resale has been an extremely crucial force in shifting the cultural demand to seek out more secondhand clothing. Whether it’s online or at thrift shops, the rise in secondhand fashion within younger generations is undeniable. According to Forbes, “37% of Gen Z shop resale, compared to 27% of millennials and 19% of baby boomers” (via Forbes). Not only are people feeling more inclined to shop sustainably, but websites like Depop have greatly increased the accessibility to highquality secondhand clothes. This is an important equalizing agent that can contribute to greater equity and accessibility in fashion. This equity can be increased furthermore by the considerable presence of luxury fashion in secondhand markets.

Websites like ‘The RealReal’ provide opportunities for people to buy lightly used luxury goods affordably, creating a platform on the basis of increasing equity in luxury markets. Another positive about the resale

$30 market is that it redirects profits from fast fashion and exploitative corporations. Although a lot of retail clothing being resold comes from major brands and corporations, the difference is that the profit and market is now in the hands of the people, allowing resellers to own at least a bit more of the means of production than previously possible. This brings shoppers closer to independence from exploitative corporate firms. Buying secondhand from resellers is also convenient for those who follow fashion trends, but don’t want to buy from fast fashion retailers who are profiting off of the microtrend cycle. The most obvious advantages of all of this are the climate- and resource-related benefits of buying secondhand. Buying secondhand is more carbon neutral than buying retail, especially considering that fashion is the second-most polluting industry, with issues such as excessive water use and contamination, material misuse, labor abuses, and more. What is unfortunate about specifically online resellers is that the carbon emitted from shipping long distances is much greater than that of going to a local store. However, the overall carbon cost of delivering products from overseas sellers to domestic sellers, the domestic sellers to storefronts, and the additional potential costs of driving to go buy the item or to have it delivered, as seen in the fast fashion industry, is considerably higher than in resale processes. Additionally, buyers of secondhand clothing have become increasingly motivated by environmental protection benefits to do so. According to consumer surveys from the Boston Consulting Group, “while half of the respondents to our 2022 survey cited affordability and value as the number one reason for buying secondhand, this number has fallen markedly from 2019 and 2020. Sustainability is an increasingly popular driving force for purchasing secondhand clothing, as is the thrill of the hunt and the opportunity to barter with sellers. Product variety remains important and is still the second biggest driver behind secondhand consumption, no doubt powered by the increasing popularity of resale apps” (via BCG).

On the other hand, the emerging resale industry has some conflicts in its abuse of purpose. Secondhand shopping emerged as a resource for low income communities to afford necessities, but its recent evolution into a popular phenomenon within the fashion industry has had quite a compelling effect on the rise of sustainable fashion. However, when resellers actively manipulate markets by scooping up a wholesale stock at full price just to upcharge by more than double the original price, or flip little girls’ clothes–that children need– for trendy “baby tees,” then the entire grounding of the phenomenon feels a bit compromised. Of course, this is not reflective of the entire reselling community and is typically found in more luxurious sectors, like sneakers or streetwear, rather than in areas of necessity. It is also true that individual resellers are not responsible for secondhand corporations, such as Goodwill, taking advantage of thrifting’s rising popularity by raising prices. Unfortunately, regardless of whose fault it is that the market is moving, it is moving to a higher price range nonetheless. This disproportionately and negatively impacts low income communities whom these institutions were originally created to provide for. Hopefully as the industry progresses, resale outlet popularity will foster more inclusivity by breaking stigmas surrounding shopping secondhand instead of pushing more people out of affording basic necessities. If not, then low income communities will be forced to depend on fast fashion. Regardless of if the ethical principles behind what online resale has advanced to are on a steady foundation, it is undeniable that a cultural shift toward secondhand shopping is an extremely positive development in the fashion industry. With online fast fashion giants like SHEIN and Aliexpress bulldozing through trend cycles with the dirt cheap prices, it is comforting to see that a movement is occurring alongside in the direction of sustainability. Although this rising industry must recognize and rectify its issues before they are permanently ingrained in its foundation, the recent years have been so major for resale products and its impact on the secondhand market has been unquestionably essential for advancing the world toward more mindful consumerism.