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[meyk-uhp] noun 1. facial cosmetics, as eye shadow or lipstick 2. cosmetics used on other parts of of the body, as to cover birthmarks 3. the application of cosmetics 4. the ensemble or effect created by such application
Makeup is a subset of cosmetics, and refers primarily to coloured products intended to alter the user’s appearance. Many manufacturers from all over the world distinguish between decorative cosmetics and care cosmetics. The word cosmetics was derived from the Greek κοσμητική τέχνη (kosmetikē tekhnē), which means “technique of dress and ornament”. The manufacturer of cosmetics is currently dominated by a small number of multinational corporations that originated in the early 20th century, but the distribu-
tion and sale of cosmetics is spread among a wide range of different businesses. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics in the United States defines cosmetics as: “intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions.” This broad definition includes, as well, any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes soap from this particular category.
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History and Origin The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage was found in Egypt around 3500 BC during the Old Kingdom. The Ancient Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics. The Romans and Ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing poisonous mercury and often lead. The ancient kingdom of Israel was influenced by cosmetics as recorded in the Old Testament—2 Kings 9:30 where Jezebel painted her eyelids—approximately 840 BC. The Biblical book of Esther describes various beauty treatments as well. In the Middle Ages, although its use was frowned upon by Church leaders, many women still wore cosmetics. A popular fad for women during the Middle Ages was to have a pale-skinned complexion, which was achieved through either applying pastes of lead, chalk, or flour, or by bloodletting. Women would also put white lead pigment that was known as “ceruse” on their faces to appear to have pale skin. Cosmetic use was frowned upon at many points in Western history. For example, in the 19th century, Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup improper, vulgar, and acceptable only for use by actors.
7 Women in the 19th century liked to be thought of as fragile ladies. They compared themselves to delicate flowers and emphasized their delicacy and femininity. They aimed always to look pale and interesting. Sometimes ladies discreetly used a little rouge on the cheeks, and used “belladonna” to dilate their eyes to make their eyes stand out more. Make-up was frowned upon in general especially during the 1870s when social etiquette became more and more rigid. Actresses however were allowed to use make up and famous beauties such as Sarah Bernhardt and Lillie Langtry could be powdered. Most cosmetic products available were still either chemically dubious, or found in the kitchen amid food colorings, berries and beetroot. By the middle of the 20th century, cosmetics were in widespread use by women in nearly all industrial societies around the world. Cosmetics have been in use for thousands of years. The absence of regulation of the manufacture and use of cosmetics has led to nega-
tive side effects, deformities, blindness, and even death through the ages. Examples of this were the prevalent use of ceruse (white lead), to cover the face during the Renaissance, and blindness caused by the mascara Lash Lure during the early 20th century. The worldwide annual expenditures for cosmetics today is estimated at $19 billion. Of the major firms, the largest is L’Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by Liliane Bettencourt 26% and Nestlé 28%; the remaining 46% is traded publicly). The market was developed in the USA during the 1910s by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max Factor. These firms were joined by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after. Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers, who have more recently been joined online by established outlets, including the major department stores and traditional bricks and mortar beauty retailers.
ETHICS During the 20th century, the popularity of cosmetics increased rapidly. Cosmetics are increasingly used by girls at a young age, especially in the United States. Due to the fast-decreasing age of make-up users, many companies, from high-street brands like Rimmel to higher-end products like Estee Lauder, have catered to this expanding market by introducing more flavored lipsticks and glosses, cosmetics packaged in glittery, sparkly packaging and marketing and advertising using young models. The social consequences of younger and younger beautification has had much attention in the media over the last few years. Criticism of cosmetics has come from a variety of sources including some feminists, religious groups, animal rights activists, authors and public interest groups. There is a growing awareness and preference for cosmetics that are without any supposedly toxic ingredients, especially those derived from petroleum, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and parabens.
safety Numerous published reports have raised concern over the safety of a few surfactants. SLS causes a number of skin issues including dermatitis. Parabens can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis in individuals with paraben allergies, a small percentage of the general population. Animal experiments have shown that parabens have a weak estrogenic activity, acting as xenoestrogens. Prolonged use of makeup has also been linked to thinning eyelashes. Synthetic fragrances are widely used in consumer products. Studies concluded from patch testing show synthetic fragrances are made of many ingredients which cause allergic reactions. Cosmetics companies have been criticized for making pseudo-scientific claims about their products which are misleading or unsupported by scientific evidence.
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Cosmetics manufacturers who genuinely do not test on animals generally use the following for safety testing of their products: - reliance on existing natural or synthetic ingredients, compounds and substances, which have already been extensively tested on animals; - avoiding novel ingredients or combinations of ingredients that have not been fully tested and may not be safe;
- testing on human volunteers/clinical trials. This presumes that cosmetics companies are already using computer modeling and cell cultures to simulate human tissue, two techniques that have had ambiguous utility in discovering problems early. Supporters of animal testing say that neither can fully replace live human or nonhuman animal tests.
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ANIMAL TESTING Using animal testing in the development of cosmetics may involve testing either a finished product or the individual ingredients of a finished product on animals, often rabbits, but also mice, rats, and other animals. In some cases, the products or ingredients are applied to the mucous membranes of the animal, including eyes, nose, and mouth, to determine whether they cause allergic or other reactions. Re-using existing test data obtained from previous animal testing is generally not considered to be cosmetic testing on animals; however, the acceptability of this to opponents of testing is inversely proportional to how recent the data is. Cosmetics testing on animals is particularly controversial. Such tests, which are still conducted in the U.S., involve general toxicity, eye and skin irritancy, phototoxicity (toxicity triggered by ultraviolet light) and mutagenicity. Cosmetics testing is banned in the Netherlands, Belgium, and the UK, and in 2002, after 13 years of discussion, the European Union (EU) agreed to phase in a near-total ban on the sale of animal-tested cosmetics throughout the EU from 2009, and to ban all cosmetics-related animal testing. France, which is home to the world’s largest cosmetics company, L’Oreal, has protested the proposed ban by lodging a case at the European Court of Justice in Luxembourg, asking that the ban be quashed. The ban is also opposed by the European Federation for Cosmetics Ingredients, which represents 70 companies in Switzerland, Belgium, France, Germany and Italy.
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To understand the connection between makeup and youths, we have conducted a survey among 30 youths aged 13 to 25.
How did you first get to know about makeup?
Television commercials Fashion magazines Internet Word of mouth Celebrities Others
Do you own any makeup products? If so, how many?
No 1-3 4-9 10 and above
How much is the maximum you are willing to spend on makeup? Less than $5 $6-$11 $12-$24 $25-$49 $50 and above
Are you willing to go out without any makeup on?
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How often do you apply makeup?
Daily
Once a week
2-3 times a week
Only on special occasions
Why do you wear makeup?
To feel better about own appearance To imitate a certain celebrity’s style Fan of a certain makeup brand Others
With makeup products being easily accessible everywhere today, more and more young women and men are starting to experiment with and wear makeup. Additionally, with the advances of technology and internet-savvy youths, people tend to learn about makeup at a very young age. Majority of the major makeup companies make full use of this trend and have their own online websites for consumers to learn more about their product ranges. Some even accept online orders, which allows consumers to shop for makeup at the comfort of their own homes. This also contributes to the easy accessibility and availability of makeup products. Based on the survey results, almost half of the respondents own at least 4 makeup products, and apply makeup daily. Moreover, 44 per cent of the respondents answered
that they would not go out without any makeup on. These statistics shows how indispensable makeup is in these youths’ lives. Many youths also indicated that the main reason for which they wear makeup is to feel better about their appearances. Another fairly large portion of them responded that they wear makeup to imitate a certain celebrity’s style. This is probably why most makeup companies get popular celebrities to endorse their products, so as to appeal to the ever-growing youth consumer market.
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The fact that majority of youths use makeup products to feel better about their appearances shows that they may be feeling insecure about themselves. A correlational study in which thirty English women were surveyed revealed that anxiety, self-presentation, and conformity are significantly positively correlated with the
application of cosmetics, and social confidence, emotional stability, self-esteem, and physical attractiveness are significantly negatively correlated with cosmetics usage. (Fieldman, Robertson and Hussey, 2008) This data suggests that anxious, insecure females are motivated to apply cosmetics more so than females who are emotionally secure,
socially confident and perceive themselves as physically attractive. Another study conducted by Cash, Dawson, Davis, Bowen and Galumbeck, utilizing a sample of undergraduate college students, discovered that male peers tend to be harsher judges of a female’s physical attractiveness than female peers are. It also
revealed that females may overestimate their physical attractiveness when they are wearing makeup cosmetics. (1988) However, the current literature on the motivation for cosmetics use is scarce, and society would benefit from the creation and repetition of empirical studies on this topic.
The world of makeup is vast. Most makeup products are distinguished by the area of the body intended for application.
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lips
eyes
Lip makeup includes products like lipsticks, lip glosses, lip liners, lip balms, lip plumpers, lip conditioners, lip primers and lip boosters. Different lip colours can give off different vibes, and this enables lip makeup users to easily change the overall feel to their look just by applying lip makeup. Depending on the makeup used, users can achieve thousands and thousands of different looks!
Eye makeup products are often regarded as the most essential makeup products in a women’s makeup pouch. Our eyes are the windows to our souls, and majority of women worldwide agree that large, welldefined eyes are one of the most attractive features in the world. You can also easily alter your eye colour with coloured contact lenses, which are fast gaining popularity in recent years.
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FACE
nails
Not everybody is born with perfect, flawless skin. Although they are only temporary, foundation makeup can provide with you with the perfect poreless skin you are seeking for. They usually come in a range of coverages, from sheer to heavy. Usually, a wide range of shades will be available for different individuals with different skin tones. Face makeup also includes blushers and bronzers.
Even with the number of nail parlours available nowadays, a large number of ladies still opt to do manicures and pedicures for themselves to save cost, especially for youths who are still students as they are usually not financially stable yet. Nail polishes and glosses allow users to colour their finger and toe nails. Users can also apply nail deco stickers to customize their own nails!
physical composition Many makeup products used to only come in one type of physical composition. Take the foundation for an example. When foundations were first introduced to the market, they only came in powder form. Nowadays though, you can find them in a wide variety of physical compositions - powder, liquid, gel and mousse. This is necessary to cater
makeup remover It is essential for users to remove every single trace of makeup every night before they go to bed. Makeup that is left in the skin for a long period of time can cause clogged pores, which in turn causes acne. Makeup removers, like makeup products, also come in various forms. Cleansing milks and organic oils are among some of the more popular ones.
to a wider consumer market. For example, people with oily skin are better suited to makeup in powder form because the powdery properties of the makeup helps in oil control, and people with dry skin are usually better suited for gel or liquid makeup products because these products help to moisturize the skin as well.
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skincare Skincare products are also included in the general category of cosmetics. These include creams and lotions to moisturize the face and body which are often formulated for different skin types per range, sunscreens to protect the skin from UV radiation and damage, skin lighteners, and treatment products to repair or hide skin imperfections (acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.), tanning oils to brown the skin. Many women who wants to maintain their fair skin apply sunscreen lotions religiously before their usual makeup routine to prevent and protect their skin from getting darker and darker.
From the survey results previously (pg. x), 31 per cent of the respondents indicated that the product quality of makeup is the most important factor for them when purchasing makeup. The ingredients that make up the products play an important role in the quality. Moreover, people with allergies to certain ingredients should always check the ingredient list of a product to ensure that it does not contain anything that can be harmful for their skin. While there is assurance from the largest cosmetic companies that ingredients have passed quality tests and official regulations, and are
therefore generally safe to use, there is a growing preference for cosmetics that are without any “synthetic� ingredients, especially those derived from petroleum. Once a niche market, handmade and certified organic products are becoming more mainstream. Ingredients’ listings in cosmetics are highly regulated in many countries. The testing of cosmetic products on animals is a subject of some controversy. It is now illegal in the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, and Belgium, and a ban across the European Union came into effect in 2009.
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organic and natural ingredients
Even though many cosmetic products are regulated, there are still health concerns regarding the presence of harmful chemicals within these products. Aside from color additives, cosmetic products and their ingredients are not subject to FDA regulation prior to their release.
With many new products released into the market every season, it is hard to keep track of the safety of every product. Some products carry carcinogenic contaminant 1,4- dioxane. Many cosmetic companies are coming out with “All natural” and organic products. All natural products contain mineral and plant ingredients and organic products are made with organic agricultural products. Products who claim they are organic are not, unless they are certified “USDA Organic.” In the recent years, more and more makeup users are choosing to use organic makeup instead.
Mineral makeup, another term for loose powder makeup foundation, largely comprises earth-based Ingredients. This product contains coverage pigments like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, both of which are also physical sunscreens. The main ingredients (minerals such as mica, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide), have been the basis of
most makeup foundations for decades, but many dermatologists report that because mineral makeup frequently eliminates classic irritants such as fragrances, binders, synthetic dyes, talc, and preservatives, it is considered purer and can be kinder to the user’s skin.
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tion. This is mostly due to the high content of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide—two ingredients commonly found in traditional sunscreen. Because titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have anti-inflammatory properties, certain mineral makeups can also have a calming effect on the skin, particularly important if you suffer from inflammatory problems such as rosacea or acne. Mineral makeup also is known for being noncomedogenic, and many manufacturers claim it also offers sun protec-
Mineral makeup will be beneficial for users with sensitive or acneprone skin, because they are less likely to provoke and aggravate your skin’s condition. Mineral makeup products also does not
mineral makeup
clog pores, thus reducing the chances of breakouts significantly. This not only helps in the user’s confidence in using the product, but also boosts the makeup company and brand’s credibility in the long run. Thus, many makeup users nowadays are opting to use mineral makeup instead of the conventional makeup products.
People from different cultures apply makeup differently. Even within a same culture, different individuals can also have different definitions of beauty, thus having different opinions and thoughts of what looks good, and what do not look as good. In the United States, for example, you can find people
sporting natural, minimal makeup, and also people wearing dramatic, sizzling hot makeup. On the contrary, in Japan, the Japanese ‘gyarus’ have a very distinct makeup style, with the emphasis placed on the eyes. The popularity of gyaru makeup has even spread to countries like Europe, America and other
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parts of Asia, where people follow makeup tutorials to adopt the look. The Internet is a wonderful resource for makeup tutorials featuring various looks. Youths nowadays have very different styles and approaches to applying makeup as well. According to a casual street survey, majority of local youths get their makeup
ideas inspired by some celebrity icons and idols. Most youths and other makeup users also vary their makeup based on the event they’re attending. For example, if one is hitting the clubs, then a more dramatic makeup look will be more suited for the event, in contrast to a more natural makeup look for school or work.
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The cosmetic industry is a profitable business for most manufacturers of cosmetic products. By cosmetic products, we understand anything that is intended for personal care such as skin lotions or sun lotions, makeup and other such products meant to emphasize one’s look. Given the technological development and the improvement of the manufacturing process of cosmetics and not least due to the constantly increasing demand of such products, this industry reported an important growth in terms of profit.
The cosmetic industry has not only grown only in the United States, but also in various parts of the world which have become famous for their cosmetic precuts. Some of these include France, Germany, Italy and Japan. It has been estimated that in Germany, the cosmetic industry generated sales of EUR 12.6 billion at retail sales, in 2008 which made of German cosmetic industry the 3rd in the world, after Japan and the United States. Also, it has been shown that in the same country, this industry has grown with nearly 5 percent in one year, from 2007 to 2008. The exports of Germany in this industry reached in 2008 EUR 5.8 billion whereas the imports of cosmetics totaled EUR 3 billion. The main countries that export cosmetics to Germany are France, Switzerland, the United States and Italy and they mainly consist of makeup and fragrances or perfumes for women. After the United States, Japan is the second largest market for cosmetics in the world, a market worth about JPY 1.4 trillion per year. The worldwide cosmetics and perfume industry currently generates an estimated annual turnover of US$170 billion (according to Eurostaf - May 2007). Europe is the leading market, representing approximately €63 billion, while sales in France reached €6.5 billion in 2006, according to FIPAR (Fédération des Industries de la Parfumerie - the French federation for the perfume industry). France is another country in which the cosmetic industry plays an important role, both nationally and internationally. Most products on whose label it is stated “Made in France” are valued on the international market. According to data from 2008, the cosmetic industry has risen constantly in France, for 40 consecutive years. In 2006, this industrial sector reached a record level of EUR 6.5 billion. Famous cosmetic brands produced in France include Vichy, Yves Saint Laurent, Yves Rocher and many others.
37 The Italian cosmetic industry is also an important player in the European cosmetic market. Although not as large as in other European countries, the cosmetic industry in Italy was estimated to reach EUR 9 billion in 2007. The Italian cosmetic industry is however dominated by hair and body products and not makeup as in many other European countries. In Italy, hair and body products make up approximately 30% of the cosmetic market. Makeup and facial care however are the first cosmetic products to be exported in the United States. Due to the popularity of cosmetics, especially fragrances and perfumes, many designers who are not necessarily involved in the cosmetic industry came up with different perfumes carrying their names. Moreover, some actors and singers have their own perfume line (such as Celine Dion). The designer perfumes are, like any other designer products, the most expensive in the industry as the consumer pays not only for the product but also for the brand. Famous Italian fragrances are produced by Giorgio Armani, Dolce and Gabbana and so on. Recently, Procter & Gamble, which sells CoverGirl and Dolce & Gabbana makeup, funded a study concluding that makeup makes women seem more competent. Due to the source of funding, the quality of this Boston University study comes into question. The European Commission and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) are the two bodies making legislation in what concerns cosmetic industry and its various aspects within the European Union, respectively in the United States. They are in charge of handling all makeup businesses in the area.
In the European Union, the circulation of the cosmetic products and their safety are law subjects since 1976. One of the newest amendments of the directive concerning cosmetic industry comes as a result of the attempt to ban animal testing. Therefore, testing cosmetic products on the animals is
illegal in the European Union from September 2004 and testing separate ingredients of such products on animals is also prohibited by law starting with March 2009. The FDA joined with thirteen other Federal
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agencies in forming the Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods (ICCVAM) in 1997 which is an attempt to ban animal testing and find other methods to test the cosmetic products. Animal testing banned.
The cosmetic industry worldwide seems to be continuously developing, now more than ever with the advent of the Internet companies. Many famous companies sell their cosmetic products online also in countries in which they do not have representatives, and is still continuing to grow up till today.
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All in all, makeup is now undeniably an indispensable part of youths’ lives. It can even be considered as part of youth culture already. The world of makeup is always changing, swiftly, but for makeup addicts, it is worth the chase.