London Runway Issue 81 - The Champagne Issue

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NORMAN BUSIGU . HISTORY OF HOODIES . TAYLOR SWIFT . NEW YEAR GOALS . SUSTAINABILITY HEROES . PARTY FOOD

PHOTO COMP WINNERS . TRUFLAIR . AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON . GAYEON LEE . RAY CHU . TRAN GUNG . MISHUS

ISSUE 81 27TH DECEMBER 2022

THE CHAMPAGNE ISSUE

RRP £12.99


LONDON RUNWAY

CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra

STAFF SPOTLIGHT

each issue, we let you meet one of our team members

Senior Graphic Designer: Lauren Rowley Staff Graphic Designers: Bruno Jorge Staff Writers: Amrit Virdi, Kwabena Gyane, Emily Poncia, Advertising enquiries - amber@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Nell Richmond, Holly Bulbrook, Ellie Moseley, Janaki Pillai, Rosie Anderton, James Rudoni, Zarah Dolz, Miracle Folaranmi, Swale Photography, TruFlair Bridal, Ramen Younakher, Jasmin Hauke, Olga Mastronardi, Eugeniya Kute, Valeria Mayer, Abi, Autumn, Rhiannon Barber, Laurencassot, Lam, SFW RUNWAY, Syko Design House, Elena Collection, Kevin Gallagher, Taeho K, Kaitlyn Kaylee Brown, Love N Makeup By Mzb, ANeMAproject, Matteo Anatrella, Rosa Piscopo, Ambra Galliano, Luigi Rossi, Domenico Capasso, Maria Cristina Buia, Gianluca Costagliola, Fracesca Sincero, Gerardo Capriglione, Annarita Mattei, Sara Limone, Yusay, Nueve Showroom, Guiseppe Maturo, Dyelog PR, Karl M. Lee, Malka Cohen, and Lexus Coleman

Special thanks to Norman Busigu

© 2022, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2022 ambassadors are Pippa Winn and Flinn Andreae

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Hi! My name is Holly and I am a graphic design intern here at London Runway Magazine. I graduated from university in the summer after studying graphic design, and this internship is my first experience of working for a magazine which I am really enjoying so far! I am passionate about editorial design, so creating layouts has been really fun. Outside of working on the magazine, I like to run and to paint.


CONTENTS

LONDON RUNWAY

7 VISUALS The Romance by TruFlair Bridal Collection (Editorial)

21

New Faces

35

Piercing (Editorial)

41

Africa Fashion Week London Part 1

51

Style (Conscious) Guide: Celebrate in Style

63

London Runway Covers 2022

67

The Greatest Pleasure in Life is Love (Editorial)

68

Jane (Editorial)

74

Museo Estudio

35 Tran Hung

108

Ray Chu

113

WORDS Lens of London Runway: The Winner Announced!

4

London Runway Sustainability Awards: The Voting Round

5

Norman Busigu (Cover Feature)

7

History of the Hoodie: The Journey of a Fashion Staple

17

The Lifelong Trends of Taylor Swift

31

Brands that are Getting it Right and Wrong With Sustainability

48

80

Claudia Wang

82

Small Business: SFW Runway

66

Dramatic (Editorial)

83

Party Food that Caters to all Dietary Requirements

88

Gayeon Lee

92

Your Style Horoscope

102

Africa Fashion Week London Part 2

97 106

Why You Should Make Your New Years Resolutions More Realistic

116

Mishus

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LONDON RUNWAY

s ' r o t i d E ter t e l And so, we come to the end of another year. The overwhelming story of 2022 seems to have been one of conflict. Most notably, the war in Ukraine still rages on as the year comes to a close – a disappointing and frustrating fact for those of us who called for a swift end to the brutality of the invasion. While 2023 may see the tide turn further, there is still no end in sight. At this time, we recommit to our pledge not to showcase Russian creatives until such a time as the war is over. In UK politics, conflict has also been the name of the game. First Boris Johnson and then Liz Truss were effectively ousted by their own parties. Betrayal, cheating, fraud, and similar scandals rocked our headlines again and again. As we approach the end of the year now, strikes are affecting all manner of public and private services, with workers finally having had enough and standing up to overpaid and overbonused bosses. In social media, it’s been the world versus Elon Musk (as well as a few other key Main Characters

from Twitter and TikTok this year).

mend our differences.

At least you’d think we’d all have something to agree on, but even there, people simply can’t see eye to eye. Ye, formerly known as Kanye West, has been inciting hatred against a whole subsection of society. The spectre of Donald Trump simply refuses to go away. The World Cup in Qatar was overshadowed with human rights issues that should not still be an issue in the year 2022.

We are all only as equal as the least in our society. While there remains a stark poverty line, while there remains a lack of representation for minorities such as disabled people and those of colour, while we still struggle for equal pay and equal rights, our society cannot be considered whole. To those in a position of privilege, the mandate is clear: turn and extend that privilege as a way to help bring up those who do not yet have it.

When years like this come over us, it’s more important than ever that we refuse to be divided. It’s easy to get annoyed about strikers causing disruption in your day, but instead, stand with them. Support them. Instead of allowing politics to divide us and cause hate, let’s remember that we’re all basically the same. We all want the same basic things in our lives, happiness being the most obvious. While money can muddy the waters, perhaps it shouldn’t – if those who have remember or realise what it’s like to have not, charitable efforts snd campaigns for political change may

So, to 2023. May we dare to strive for it to be the year of equality? Could we dream that things might change? I say, dream. But dreaming is not enough. Next year, your mission, if you choose to accept it, is this: Do. Until next year, enjoy -

RHIANNON D'AVERC

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LONDON RUNWAY

LENS OF LONDON RUNWAY: THE WINNER ANNOUNCED! We're pleased to announce the winners of this year's inaugural Lens of London Runway competition! All of the entrants put in lots of hard work to produce three images for the challenge round, in which we asked them to interpret the theme 'green'. We put them to the vote on our social media channels, where you had your say! These votes were combined with the judges scores to create our final standings. The winner will see their work gracing a cover of the magazine in the next year - and our appreciation goes out to the runners-up, too, who were so close to taking the prize!

WINNER:

ROSIE ANDERTON

SECOND PLACE: JAMES RUDONI

THIRD PLACE: ZARAH DOLZ

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LONDON RUNWAY

London Runway Sustainability Awards The Voting Round Much thanks to everyone who nominated their top brands or persons for The Sustainability Awards. It’s now time to vote away for your favourite, so may the most sustainable triumph! Winners will be announced in our Virtual Awards Ceremony in January. How to Vote: Head over to our social media or website and vote for your pick in each listed category. Instagram/Twitter/Facebook: @londonrunwaymag Website: londonrunway.co.uk/

Best Sustainable Designer Not Just Pajama Ethically-sourced silk pajamas made with natural dye and no chemicals, with the minimum of carbon emissions! Rose and Guy Beautiful childrenswear made in the UK, which featured in our Bear editorial a few issues back! Bella Sol Swim Sustainable swimwear brand made ethically in Mallorca. Plastic waste from the ocean is used to make their fabrics!

Shore and Pine "Beautifully unique pieces, lovingly constructed from leftover fabrics, offcuts, second-hand or recycled textiles and clothing." Geisha Cahalane Clothing made from discarded fabrics found in a lockup - each piece has a story.

Sustainable Influencer of the Year s.novavintage This Ukrainian retro fashion influencer's stories are always packed with views of amazing vintage stores. Virginia Mendez Owner of @TheFeministShopdotcom, an ethical shop promoting equality zoes_story Instagram influencer promoting slow fashion, making your own clothes, and disability rights.

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LONDON RUNWAY

Sustainable Store

Mr Porter A luxury menswear store that we can filter to find products that are great for the environment, fair to their workers, and made to last? Yes please!

My Little Green Wardrobe Gorgeous childrenswear from a range of different brands all with sustainability in common.

Lone Design Club Pop-up stores with a carefully curated and changing selection of fashion items from independent, sustainable, and ethical brands and designers “Where independent brands and conscious shoppers meet.”

Sustainable Accessories Brand Alison Fern Sustainable jewellery produced in small batches with a commitment to avoiding waste by making pieces to order. Feather and Field Hand poured candles made in Kent, with the purpose of supporting the environment and still having a really nice smelling candle.

Little By Little Jewellery Ethically designed jewellery inspired by food, with proceeds helping to support charities.

Atelier Roc Nature-inspired throws made from merino wool, from raw material to finished product, in the same place supporting a traditional textile craft.

Khu Khu London Statement fans - literally! An opportunity to expand your accessory vocabulary. Leiho Sustainably-sourced socks that fund projects to help the homeless.

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LONDON RUNWAY We sat down with Norman, a former interview star from way back in December 2018, to find out what he’s been up to since we last spoke. It turns out – he’s been doing a lot! What do you do and how did you get into it? In the Creative Industries, I am three things: 1. A media broadcaster across TV, radio and live events 2. A creative director/filmmaker 3. A model How did you get into being a media broadcaster? This all begins with my love for public speaking/presenting and the art of oratory which came at an early age. Approaching age 10 in 2006, all I had seen in my life to date, as far as black male role models were concerned, were rappers and athletes of whom I idolised (JAY-Z, Kanye West, Jordan etc etc). The counterbalance to these beings came in the form of Sir Trevor McDonald - he truly fascinated me. Prior to him, I had never heard a black person speak with a formal Received Pronunciation, and communicate so eloquently in a way that was concise, gripping and slick. The same can be said for Reggie Yates. Both from a young age really inspired me; the fact I saw two black men

presenting at the highest level on TV/media gave me the audacity to believe I could do it too! I loved the idea of being able to travel around the world, making documentaries and reporting on truths/stories authentically, while educating and entertaining audiences in a sophisticated and structured way. I knew it was one of my true callings to pursue in this life – being a presenter in this capacity just spoke to something deep in my soul. It’s difficult to explain, but I just knew it was meant for me… Fast forward: throughout high school (having attended Kingsbury High School – a state school in North West London), I would go on to truly hone into my formal public speaking abilities, as my Religious Studies teacher Ms. Coutts made me take up debating in 2008. I would partake in debate club once a week after school, as a way of channelling my innate confidence and restlessness (and smart mouth which would often get me into trouble haha!). I loved it and stuck with it throughout high school/sixth form. I would later represent my school at events such as the Model United Nations at Haberdashers Independent School, and compete in the Oxford and Cambridge Debating Union Competitions. Throughout University (2014-2017, having studied Law at Queen Mary University London), I would regularly perform spoken word at showcases and mic night events throughout London (with some audiences being 100+!). In hindsight, all these experiences laid the foundation for my career in media as a presenter, as I learnt the essence of performance and effective communication. As I would continue networking in the creative industries over the years, it was at the ScreenNation Awards ceremony 2019 (https://www.screennation.org/award s), where I (while working in the event support team) would meet one of the programming directors for BEN Televisions (https://bentelevision.com/). After a series of test screenings with BEN TV, they gave me my first formal presenting assignment and TV broadcast in December 2019. By late 2020 (in the midst of a national lockdown resulting from the COVID19 pandemic) I transitioned into having

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my own weekly regular televised slot as their first ever International News Correspondent. The slot was called ‘Spotlight’, and I would report on current affairs happening across Africa and the Caribbean. I then became a freelance presenter with Yanga! TV (https://yangatv.com/). Notably, in 2021, I had a significant role in the creation of a new Law focused TV/online programme (produced via YANGA! TV) 'Know Your Rights'. Specifically, I created the idea for the programme, and was its scriptwriter. This programme sees lawyer Dr. Jennifer Obaseki and I exploring legal issues, and providing audiences with the confidence they need to engage with the Law with confidence. The programme received initial positive press. More generally, I have presented/hosted high profile events at prestigious venues including the Houses of Parliament (UK), and University of Law (London, UK). Notably, In March 2021, I hosted the 'International Design Awards 2020' (virtual ceremony) event. In 2021, I was also a radio presenter with 75 Derby Radio (a community radio station), with my own show, ‘The Plug Radio Show'. Snippets of all can be seen via my showreel (located on my Youtube page). Since December 2021, I have also



LONDON RUNWAY producing content which was educational, while entertaining and layman-friendly in its nature. To this effect, I directed Our World With Norman Busigu (in 2020): an infotainment docu-series, in which I report on and explore important topics affecting real people like you and me. Season One was supported and aired (in part) by BEN TV on their platform. This was so significant for me, to have my first true production broadcasted on television. It was an affirmation for me that I am heading in the right direction, and opened up many new opportunities for me.

been working as a presenter with (previous) BBC World/CNN/Aljazeera broadcaster Riz Khan. How did you get into being a creative director? Having worked with TV networks and hosted many prestigious events, I learnt the essence of how to structure programmes and create high value productions. From this came my desire to truly begin creating my own longform pieces of content. I always knew I had a leaning towards infotainment/documentaries, and

The success of season one of Our World With Norman Busigu led to me being accepted onto a one-year formal mentoring programme with award winning production company Somesuch & Co (https://somesuch.co/), who have received awards for their works from the likes of the BAAFTAs and VMAs. I received a dedicated mentor and professional director, Dan Emmerson, who has directed for Adidas, Nike, Channel 4, Burna Boy, the NHS and much more. The success of season two propelled me into season three, where I focused more on conducting interviews. Season 3 guests so far have been professional designer and fashion stylist Nicolette Bosch and Dr. Rapheal Olaiya. How did you get into being a model? The seed was planted in my head to pursue modelling was from way back in 2012 (when I was aged 16) - in my high school yearbook, I was ‘most likely to become a supermodel’! As silly as this sounds, it always remained in the back of my mind that I should try pursue it. In 2018, I decided to give it a real go, after attending a popup runway show in late 2017 and feeling that modelling would be a lot of fun and a great way to express myself through a new artistic medium. I began by doing test shoots with freelance photographers in London, and as the months went by I began getting bookings with emerging brands for shoots, as well as bookings for small off-schedule runway shows.

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In September 2018, I won the modelling competition Fashion4Africa UK. The next day, as a by-product of winning, I was one of four runners at the Julien McDonald SS2019 official on-schedule London Fashion Week show. I got to meet supermodel Winnie Harlow and many other big names!! I couldn’t believe it! That night was incredible because within a year of pursuing modelling, I literally saw the fashion industry at its highest level, and was in the middle of it. This was an affirmation that I was in the right place and on the right journey. In 2019, one my modelling highlights was going out to Hong Kong in 2019, where I modelled designer Diane Goldie’s bespoke kimonos during photoshoots. In 2020, I was then featured in ELLE during London Fashion Week (Fashion Scout) AW2020. Then Covid hit the world, and I pivoted away from modelling (as the fashion industry more or less stopped in its tracks while readjusting to the new world we live in). I still have a deep love for modelling, and it is still my ambition to be signed as a model to a major modelling agency; given my great success in being a professional presenter/media broadcaster/creative director/filmmaker, I just know I have what it takes, and I will crack modelling in a big way - and I wont stop until I do! Its such a fun industry that challenges me in a way that forces so much growth. In July 2022, I was selected as one of three models for the official campaign for Soho House, for the launch of their new product line, Soho Skin!




LONDON RUNWAY For London Fashion week SS23, I was a runway model for premium African brand David Wej, at the London Represents show which took place at the National Liberal Club (an elite Gentleman’s club) in September 2022. My momentum as a model has surged recently and I’m very excited to keep pushing the boundaries to see how far I can take things! Watch this space… What are you working on right now? I recently completed a documentary this year, titled ‘Ghana: Africa’s Exciting Entry Point?’- I am its director and presenter. As a synopsis, this documentary critically examines the phenomenal rise of tourism in Ghana and contributing factors causing this prominent trend. This is analysed through three main dimensions: the undeniable impact of African music globally, socio-economic growth and geo-political safety in Ghana, and the allure of Ghanian culture/art. In creating this documentary, I voyaged from London (UK) to Ghana during December 2021 - January 2022, and chronicled my exciting all access journey. The documentary also boasts an original soundtrack. Notably in the documentary, I had press access to Afrochella 2021, and conducted interviews throughout the documentary with names such as Fleur East (Musician/artist), Edwin Otta

(Founder of Accra Art Week) George Adjebeng (Head of Innovation at Societe Generale), and Adrian Daniels (of Africa Global Radio and The Sound of Accra Podcast). I also travel through Accra and cross country. The documentary was produced by So Fraiche Media (http://www.sofraiche.com/) I was then able to secure a Documentary Screening & Panel Discussion Event on 11/06/2022, at Soho House (White City). The event was an absolute success (sold out, with nothing but positive feedback!) and we are all so excited for what the future holds! Notable names in attendance to the event included: Members of the Ghana High Commission; Deborah Ababio - Global Entertainment Director for Vogue (who was also a panellist); and our event host, Akua Gyamfi. One of the Ghana High Commission Team then gave an incredible keynote speech at the end of the event. Even more exciting, we have been already featured in over 10 leading online publications in Ghana since the event! In the UK, we were given a mention by The British Blacklist. Following the amazing success of the first screening event for my documentary in June 2022 at White City Soho House, we were able to arrange a second screening event. This second event took place on Sunday 21 August 2022 with Soho House (Redchurch Cinema), and equally, it was a huge success! Aside from the actual screening, we had a rap performance, an art exhibition, and a Q&A session. The documentary on Saturday 10 and Sunday 11 September made its televised debut on primetime slots, having aired on channel 7 (via SKY TV channel 181)! Lastly, I am in the beginning stages of pre-production for my next documentary in Africa. I have already been connected to some very cool people who want to help facilitate my next steps. Watch this space! What’s been your career highlight so far? My career highlight definitely has to be the incredible PR run of my documentary/screening event at Soho House both in Ghana and in the UK. Just to see the world really understand my vision and report on it so beautifully, really, is a dream come

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true. Especially as the whole process happened so organically. To me, it's evident that my creation is far bigger than just me, and it's so humbling to know that it has resonated with people around the world. It’s also a massive reminder for me to never be afraid to take that a leap of faith in pursuing my ideas, and trusting the universe to see things come full circle. It gives me the confidence to push forward with my next documentary idea, which will take place in another country in Africa. Lastly, this documentary is an amalgamation of my nearly 10 years of hustling and grinding in the creative industry, and I truly feel I am now at a place where I don’t need to prove myself to anyone – I just want to focus on becoming the best version of myself and where possible, help others do so too! In that sense, I already feel a big burden off my shoulders, and I can truly start enjoying the ride and journey. What’s the one thing everyone should know about you? Beyond any of my achievements and colourful profile and portfolio of works, I want people to know that I truly understand how fragile and delicate life is. As a result, I want



LONDON RUNWAY people to know how much I treasure and value meaningful relationships with people, before anything else. I am someone who has had two near death experiences, and earlier this year underwent an unexpected dangerous spell of bad health (which could have proved fatal if the immediate action wasn’t taken), which resulted in me having blood transfusions and a blood clot in a deep vein. This resulted in me having to not only cancel all my scheduled plans for about five weeks (due to being so physically weak), but also meant I experienced almost every range of emotion during my recovery process. I have never until this point in my life had any health issues, so this was a scary experience to say the least. During this time (March 2022-May 2022), I really recentred in a way that I’ve never experienced before, and began to develop a much broader bird’s eye view of life, taking a newfound appreciation in healthy relationships, sincerity and kindness, as it was my friends and family who remained close and gave me strength. I say all this to say, I like to think of myself as a charismatic people person, who wears his heart on his sleeve. For the line of work that I do as a presenter, being able to connect with people from different walks of life is so important, and so I do my best to remain connected to the ground and really understand what is going on in the world, how its affecting people, and how I can do my bit to help, especially given my recent poor health. If you show me love, I will give it back to you ten-fold. How would you describe your style? Chic. Vintage (90s/2000s centric). Streetstyle-leaning. I like being comfortable, colourful (bright colours) and elegant. I also like wearing new and original pieces that aren’t common. My favourite desingers at present are Ozwald Boateng and Tolu Coker. It is my dream one day to model for both of them. Follow Norman on Instagram @normanbusigu and Youtube: Norman Busigu to watch his continuing journey unfold and to view the projects discussed here! Images via Norman Busigu.

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LONDON RUNWAY

HISTORY OF THE HOODIE: THE JOURNEY OF A FASHION STAPLE This week, Kwabena Gyane examines the extensive and intriguing history and evolution of the hoodie, from its initial form centuries ago to its modern appearance which has become a staple in everyday life. If there were a word to describe the hoodie, it would be ubiquitous. This is not conjecture, it is a fact. If you step outside, chances are, before the day ends you would have caught sight of the garment. It cannot be avoided as it has ingrained itself in our everyday lives. Deathly drapery, godly garb, style staple, utilitarian uniform, not many articles of clothing have an evolution as complex as the hoodie. Even fewer have the rich cultural and societal history tied to them.

Throughout its transformations, this aspect of the clothing has relatively stayed the same, differing perhaps in length and name. The journey of the hoodie is said to have taken its first steps in Medieval Europe, although some believe its actual infancy could lie in the Assyrian Empire while others consider ancient Rome and Greece to be its true birthplace. This conclusion could potentially be due to illustrations and sculptures depicting himation around the necks and faces of Greek women, the suffibulum on Vestal Virgins and the flammeum on brides. While the hoodie’s origins could have possibly begun in any of these places or somewhere else entirely, highlighting how fashion

succeeds in transcending cultural differences and finding ways to be adopted and utilised, it is Medieval Europe that currently holds the title in this claim game, at least for the time being. The hooded garment was a name that allowed the hoodie’s antecedent to take on several styles and shapes, thus avoiding limitations that other clothes faced. Hooded garments were able to have distinctive functions depending on the group that utilised them in whatever form they were required to be. Religion, devotion, and the monastic life? There is a hooded garment for that. Monks wore cowls in the Medieval period, which were attached to their tunics. Cowls have stood the test of time during liturgical

From dressing the bare-boned body of the Grim Reaper in Western depictions of the inescapable force to being bedazzled, embroidered, and ripped for creative expression on runways and racks, the hoodie has undergone changes not many are aware of. The hood derived from the AngloSaxon word ‘hōd’ has been attached to various garments throughout the ages. Comparing the modern-day hoodie to its predecessors, one may understandably find it difficult to discern enough similarities to tie them all together, Comparing the modern-day hoodie to its predecessors, one may understandably find it difficult to discern enough similarities to tie them all together, but the roots are in the hood.

Image via pixabay

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LONDON RUNWAY services over the habits of the monks. Hooded garments were also able to play a role in fiction, especially Western literature and folklore, a feat that only a handful of clothes have been able to accomplish. Whether it be the deep red hooded cape worn by a girl visiting her grandmother or the black hooded robe of the scythebearing infernal Grim Reaper collecting souls, hooded garments have contributed to the timeless nature of these fictional characters. You did not need to see the title to know the girl mentioned was Little Red Riding Hood, and one cannot consider many of these characters without the hooded attire they wear. Hooded garments infiltrated fantasy as quickly as they did the real world, cementing themselves as necessities. Due to the broad nature of the hooded garment, several attires fit the term. From liripipes to chaperons to gugels, these hoods are generally not seen by some to be concrete points in the hoodie’s history even though they fit the description of hooded garments. The djellaba, worn in the Maghreb region in North Africa, with a pointed and baggy hood known as a qob is also another garment that seems to never enter the conversation even though it has similarities with the hooded garments worn by the European monks. The hoodie’s genesis is complicated if nothing else, although not all known hooded garments can be said to

Image via Pexels

contribute to its journey through history, it is important to highlight and assess those that could potentially have, this can showcase the potential cultural journey of the attire. Fast-forward and the sweatshirt slides into the picture, for it needs to make its debut to make way for the present-day hoodie. Before confusion settles, it should be noted that the formal name for the hoodie is the term, hooded sweatshirt. The present and most common look of the hoodie is at best a modern-day sweatshirt with a hood, and the sweatshirt’s journey is essentially intertwined with the hoodie’s.

The year is 1926, Benjamin Russell Junior, an Alabama Crimson Tide quarterback, and the son of Russell Manufacturing Company’s (now known as Russell Athletic) founder, Benjamin Russell Senior, was tired of the discomfort and chaffing of the woollen football jerseys due to sweat. Noting cotton’s comfort and the durability it provided, he suggested to his father that a cotton version of the jersey should be created, and with that, the sweatshirt was born. Much like the hoodie, the sweatshirt changed the fashion scene forever. The two became the first sportswear garments that found a clear path into the fashion scene. This allowed them to be both functional and fashionable, two vital qualities that ensured the garments aged into staples. The modern-day hoodie’s origin can be traced back to the Knickerbocker Knitting Company, now known as the brand Champion in the 1930s. From tree surgeons to cold-storage warehouse labourers, the hoodie served its original purpose of keeping people warm and protected in cold environments. In the case of athletes and the military, hoodies also served as a garment for training exercises. As stated in an earlier paragraph, the classic look of the hoodie we know today could simply be described as a hood attached to a sweatshirt. It should be noted that some hoodies did generally start in such a manner. Pre-existing sweatshirts were taken with hoods sewn around the necklines, and these would later be known as after hoods.

Image via Canva


Hoodies solely performed their utilitarian function for roughly 40 years, being used by workers, the military, and athletes in America. Not only did the garment provide muchneeded warmth, but it also allowed for comfort and incredible manoeuvrability. High school and university male athletes were said to give their hoodies to their girlfriends among other sportswear such as letterman jackets. Some point to this trend in 1950s America as the beginning of the hoodie’s rise to becoming prominent in everyday fashion. It was popular, but this popularity was limited to those in and adjacent to the sporting sphere, and it had not yet spread its wings to establish itself to become the mainstream fashion item it is today. In comes the 1970s and with all the necessary attributes to make it, the birth of an icon occurred. This decade saw the hoodie make its inevitable rise in popularity, transcending its sportswear form and gaining its streetwear and casual-wear appeal. From MCs to b-boys, the hoodie made one of its homes in the hip-hop scene. Emerging from the Bronx in New York City, hip-hop was an outlet

Image via Pexels

From MCs to b-boys, the hoodie made one of its homes in the hip-hop scene. Emerging from the Bronx in New York City, hip-hop was an outlet for Black and Latino youth, allowing them to express their disdain and protest the institutional abuse they faced as minorities. From the corrupt and racist police force to the dehumanising and soul-sucking vacuum that was the prison system, the hoodie became integral in the aesthetics of hip-hop, with several iconic hip-hop pioneers donning the garment. A form of cultural expression in the hip-hop sphere, the hoodie symbolised rebellion against the system, and due to it allowing for anonymity, if need be, it was also worn by graffiti artists when they made their artistic and often thoughtprovoking pieces throughout the city. While America’s East Coast was giving new meaning to the hoodie and creating a genre that would take over the world in due time, on the West Coast, the garment was being utilised in another youth-led movement to redefine themselves. Southern California is considered the birthplace of skateboarding. Skate parks had not yet made their way to California in the early 1970s, so

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skateboarders had to make do with drained pools, abandoned warehouses, and other restricted locations. With some aspects of their activities considered illegal, in comes the hoodie bearing the gift it offered to graffiti artists in New York. Skateboarding had its mainstream rejection aspect to it, and with this subcultural group, the hoodie played a role in that while also offering protection against the elements. Punk also had its part to play with the hoodie. Most skateboarders gravitated to the music and the subculture, lending to the aesthetics they emulated, which would go on to create the skate punk subculture in the early 1980s. The hoodie, like its predecessor, was performing different functions depending on the group that utilised it. However, unlike its predecessor, it kept its silhouette through it all. The hoodie had finally found a place outside of sportswear in these subcultural groups, on opposite sides of North America. However, it did not stop there. An icon needs to constantly be on everyone’s mind to cement its place. The hoodie finally made it into


LONDON RUNWAY mainstream consciousness, at least the Western mainstream with the 1976 theatrical release of the American sports drama film, Rocky. With the titular character played by Sylvester Stallone, the iconic training montage featured Rocky in a grey cotton hoodie. While the hoodie was confined to its sportswear roots in the film, it still managed to show the audience that it could also be a casual garment. With functionality and fashion appeal on its side, the hoodie had to do little work to achieve stardom. Sweatshirts received their advertising makeover in the 1960s, with universities stamping their logos on the garments, creating a sense of school spirit and an inexpensive way to broadcast themselves. It was not long before the hoodie went through a similar process. After all, it was the sweatshirt’s kin.

Image via Pexels

If the 1970s can be considered as the birth of the hoodie’s iconic status, the 1990s is when it cemented its status. Then time when the term ‘hoodie’ entered the general vocabulary, Hiphop and rap had gained immense popularity,. Fashion designers saw the opportunity the hoodie presented. From Ralph Lauren to Giorgio Armani, the hoodie was making its way into fashion collections. The negative connotations of the hoodie became more apparent in the 1990s and have chained themselves to the garment ever since. With its ability to provide anonymity, it seemed inevitable that people would engage in malicious activities while donning the garment. Eric “Deal” Felisbert, a former graffiti artist, recalls ‘stick-up-kids’, individuals who used the concealment the hoodie provided to rob others. Criminality being linked to the hoodie also came with biases, with Black youth mostly facing the full impact of this, such as children like Trayvon Martin. Considering the hoodie became a choice of clothing for groups that were ignored and oppressed and looking at the

Image via Pexels

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situation through racial and socioeconomic lens, it is not shocking to see how the hoodies found a way to become a piece so connected to politics. One would think hoodies would begin to fade with the negative associations. However, by this point, the hoodie had already been established as an essential piece of clothing. The hoodie has been able to do what many have not. It has become a mainstay in almost everyone’s wardrobe regardless of fashion sense. From its inception to its contemporary look, the hoodie has seen several changes and sparked several conversations in its journey to earn its status as a staple.

You can read more of Kwabena's work at clippings.me/users/kwabenagyane, whereifoundmyeyes.com/ and @whereifoundmyeyes on Instagram.


The Romance by

TruFlair Bridal Collection Fashion Designer/Creative Director: Miracle Folaranmi @tru.flair Photographer: Swale Photography @swale_photography Dresses - TruFlair Bridal











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THE LIFELONG TRENDS OF TAYLOR SWIFT Amrit Virdi analyses the style evolution of global superstar Taylor Swift. In her country starlet to pop princess pipeline, Taylor Swift has experienced more fashion eras than the ordinary popstar. Her 16-year long career included 10 studio albums and two re-recordings, and with this, the 11-time Grammy Award winner has shifted from country, to pop, to indie, and back to pop. With these musical genre shifts, a change in her style, involving dramatic hairstyles and a bleach blonde stint, was bound to happen as her musical journey is symbolically charted in her fashion. Taylor Swift first rose to fame in 2006 with her debut eponymous album, which paid homage to her Nashville roots with its country influences. Emerging onto the scene with luscious blonde curly locks, cowboy boots, and floaty day dresses, she was just a girl with her acoustic guitar taking on the world. Her lead singles ‘Tim McGraw’ and ‘Teardrops on My Guitar’ harken to her country style of the early 2000s. In this musical ‘era’ of hers, Swift’s youth is also apparent in her fashion choices—

minimalistic makeup with a natural lip, heavy blush, and coloured eyeshadow seemed to be her go-to— the same as with many other teenage girls around the world at the time. Paired with hipster-chic dreamcatcher earrings and ditsy dresses, Swift still successfully embodied a ‘regular girl next door’ image, despite the fact that she was quickly becoming a household name. As time went on, her curls got looser, and the star started to embrace her transition into young adulthood. Second studio album Fearless, released in 2008, was still mostly country but contained some pop elements. The then 18-year-old firmly set her place in the industry with smash hits ‘Love Story’ and ‘You Belong with Me’, making the album one of the most awarded country albums in history. Flawlessly fearless in this era, Swift showed through the album that she was going through the emotions that most young women were experiencing at this age— love and heartbreak. Through the music videos for the chosen singles, she brought the songs to life with her fictional fashion. From nerdy girl next door chic in ‘You Belong with Me’ to ball dresses and perfect updos in ‘Love Story’, her excellent storytelling was assisted with carefully selected fashion choices.

Away from the music video world, Taylor also showed some more maturity in her red carpet looks at this time. The 2009 MTV Video Music Awards saw Taylor, despite the infamous Kanye West incident, don the red carpet in a stunning silver sequin dress, paired with a loose curls updo and red lip. Gone were the floaty dresses of her Taylor Swift era, according to her red carpet looks. 2010 brought with it Swift’s highly loved Speak Now album, which harkened back to her fairy-tale inspired roots of 2006. The album cover shows the singer graciously taking centre stage in a glittering ballgown, and this sophistication followed through to her award show fashions, notably the 2010 Grammy Awards where her signature curls returned as she stunned the cameras with a floor length bodycon blue sequin Kaufman Franco dress. Being in her 20s at this time, her matured look didn’t come as a surprise, including her little black dress at Roberto Cavalli’s 40th Anniversary party and her bright red floor length gown at 2010 CMA Awards. Her fashion choices were taking a gradual turn towards adulthood and away from her fictional, fairy-tale, and country princes-like persona established at the beginning of her career.


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With 2012’s Red era, Swift returned to music with a vengeance after her love life had been blasted in the press in the years prior to the album’s release. Reflecting this, her style emphasised that she was no longer the naive, innocent, and emerging singer that the press could belittle, and she owned her status of being a free, independent young woman in her twenties living her life for her. In terms of her street style, Swift was seen more often with straightened hair and jumpers or cardigans paired with smart trousers or skirts— a far cry from the printed dresses and cowboy boots her fans were used to seeing her in. With Red mostly being associated with the autumn season, it made Taylor’s autumn and winter fashion from this time stick out to be a memorable and long-lasting legacy of hers. The scarves and trench coats, particularly those worn during her brief relationship with Harry Styles when her paparazzi presence was at one of its heights, have turned out to be some of her most memorable fashion staples. Another trend emerging from Taylor’s style at this time was her iconic red lipstick. From red carpets to everyday looks, the singer was increasingly spotted with the statement, makeup go-to, which perfectly pulled her outfits together in a sophisticated way. The 2013 Video Music Awards where Swift stunned the ceremony with an embellished bodycon Hervé Léger dress paired with a red lip was a standout moment. It fittingly explained her ‘’red lip’’ references in her 2014 hit single, ‘Style’.

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Being in her early twenties around the release of Red, Taylor still retained a youthful energy in her music and her fashion of the early 2010s. Coinciding with the Tumblr era, Taylor’s oversized sunglasses, array of hats, and baggy tshirts styled with black jeans and shorts, specifically in the ‘22’ music video, showcased her ability to still enjoy her young life despite being blasted in front of the whole world. Red has been marked as one of the best pop breakup albums, so Taylor showcasing her fun and independent nature in her fashion is an empowering statement relating to the sentiment of the record. 2014 brought with it Taylor Swift’s true popstar era, led by the release of 1989. Embodied in the album’s cover, Taylor’s fashion in the mid 2010s had a nostalgic feeling, combining elements of older influences with the playful and fun concepts of the current fashion at the time. Her colourful combination of miniskirts and crop tops with heels


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were mellowed out by her straight, short, choppy hair, and, again, her sophisticated red lipstick. With her fashion clearly reflecting her genre changing music, Taylor took this style switch as an opportunity to reintroduce herself and firmly cement herself in the world of pop. The ’1989 World Tour’ also showed Taylor developing her own fashion legacies which she established earlier on in her career. Her earlier affection for all that glitters in the Speak Now era well and truly came back on this tour, albeit in a more mature way. Sequin embellished leotards with glittering jackets ensured that Taylor brought her songs to life and had her centre stage moment. Additionally, an ode to her more feminine fashion was paid as . pink, floaty midi skirts pulled together her music and fashion from all of her eras. Taylor’s hair was truly indicative of her music, overall style, and where she is in life. After a break from music following a tabloid grilling exacerbated by Kanye West and Kim Kardashian, Taylor returned with Reputatio’, a revenge driven record which showed that she wasn’t to be messed with. Debuting a bleach blonde, choppy cut at the 2016 Met Gala, she took her pop presence to another level, straying away from a “bubblegum” pop image. Her tour outfits from this time were mostly black, further emphasising her music and fashion while reflecting the point she was trying to make to the media– she was not a naive popstar. Swift has admitted that this was a trying time in her life, and her

newfound happiness in love and life shone through in her 2019 record Lover. The album itself can be described as a pop of colour, and her fashion at the time truly reflected this. Driven by pinks and rainbows, Swift appeared happier and healthier onstage, as her colourful fashion seemed to be reflecting her happy mental state. Recently, Taylor has taken the music industry by storm by releasing the re-records of her previous albums Fearless and Red, whilst also treating fans to three brand new records, Folklore, Evermore, and Midnights have been released since 2020, with Swift truly embracing the cottage core style. Whilst Midnights has seen Taylor incorporate more purples, lavenders, and glitter into her style, harkening back to Speak Now, the superstar has recently been embracing comfortable yet quietly beautiful looks, as opposed to the over-the-top outfits that many artists often get lost in. Opting for cardigans, maxi skirts, and dresses, paired with her iconic red lip of course, it seems that Taylor has truly took inspiration from all of her ‘eras’ and found her own style. If Taylor Swift isn’t the prime example of personal fashion being ever-evolving, I don’t know who is. You can read more of Amrit’s work via her portfolio, https://amritvirdi.journoportfolio.com /#/ ,or by following her Instagram @thevinylwriter.

Images via Unsplash, Canva, and Spotify

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NEW FACE: JASMIN Name: Jasmin Age: 24 Location: Munich Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 2 years Where are you from originally? Germany

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I do artistic cycling. What would surprise people to know about you? I'm really sporty. What are your modelling ambitions? I love taking pictures.

Photographer: Ramen Younakher @rayo.photo Model: Jasmin Hauke @jasminha.photos

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NEW FACE: EUGENIYA Name: Eugeniya Kute Age: 26 Location: Milan Agency: Indastria

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Rhythmic gymnastics (master of sport)

How long have you been modelling for? 7 years

What would surprise people to know about you? I sing, I’ve 37 shoe size with height of 180

Where are you from originally? Russia

What are your modelling ambitions? Show & campaign of Versace

Photographer: Olga Mastronardi @olga.mastronardi Model: Eugeniya Kute @eugeniya_kute Makeup Artist: Valeria Mayer @valeriamayermakeup Wardrobe: Dress, Suit - Dickson Style Milano; Shoes - Zara, Guiseppe Zanotti

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NEW FACE: AUTUMN Name: Autumn Age: 25 Location: Hamilton, ON Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? 3 years Where are you from originally? Canada

Photographer: Abi @magikportraits Model: Autumn @xomissautumn Wardrobe: Guess

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Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I used to dance competitively What would surprise people to know about you? I run my own business What are your modelling ambitions? I model for fun and to meet other local creatives


Rhiannon wears: festival mesh chain harness in silver tone - £36, ASOS Design; Glenlynn drop earrings in snake design in gold - £20, ALDO Photographer - Rhiannon D'Averc @rhiannondaverc Model - Rhiannon Barber @rightkeysonly Assistants - Amber Johnson @amberjohn_ and Kwabena Gyane @whereifoundmyeyes


Rhiannon wears: body chain in crystal bralette design in silver tone - £19; Curve crystal choker necklace in silver tone - £8, both ASOS Design



Rhiannon wears: body chain in crystal bralette design in silver tone - £19; Curve crystal choker necklace in silver tone - £8, both ASOS Design


Rhiannon wears: Body chain with crystal choker in silver tone - £26, ASOS Design; statement crystal earrings in gold - £8; exclusive drop earrings in rhinestone leaf design - £10, both True Decadence


Rhiannon wears: Lower back chain with draped crystal cupchain in silver tone - £21; choker necklace in multi row crystal design in silver tone - £12, both ASOS Design; unisex limited edition silver plated sparkly chain bracelet - £25.99, Reclaimed Vintage inspired; and crystal heart choker necklace in silver - £12, True Decadence


Rhiannon wears: Body chain with crystal choker in silver tone - £26, ASOS Design; statement crystal earrings in gold - £8; exclusive drop earrings in rhinestone leaf design - £10, both True Decadence


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BRANDS THAT ARE GETTING IT RIGHT AND WRONG WITH SUSTAINABILITY Em Poncia takes a look at some brands that are doing everything right…and some that are doing everything wrong.

fibers made from sustainably sourced wood. They work with Ecologi to offset their carbon impact and have thus far achieved 1,746.89 tonnes of carbon reduction. Finally, in the future, they’re looking to increase their use of fabric scraps, hire someone as the Sustainability and Ethics Manager, and move to a bigger warehouse to decrease the frequency of their new drops. Lucy and Yak is a brilliant brand to support, and they have some very unique pieces designed for maximum comfortability. Sustainability amongst fashion brands is a minefield. Some companies use only natural fibres or manufacture all their clothes locally, while others say they do both but are really pumping money into illegal sweatshops. Navigating the good, the bad, and the ugly is difficult at best. Here are a few brands I love, and some that I hate, for their commitment to preserving the planet.

THE GOOD: Lucy and Yak A brilliant brand for sustainability, Lucy and Yak is based out of Brighton. Known for their colourful dungarees, their website is also full of funky graphics that bring your attention to the good they’re doing for the planet. The organic cotton they use is GOTS certified, asserting the quality of their products, an accolade that few clothing brands can claim. They use Natural Earth Pigments for some of their ‘Yaks’, and their ‘Poppy’ skirt is made using cellulose viscose

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LONDON RUNWAY Image via @Girlfriend on Instagram.

Girlfriend Collective Girlfriend Collective is a brand for the climate-conscious athlete. Their sleek fitness sets and swimwear are made entirely from recycled materials, including plastic water bottles and fishing nets salvaged from the ocean. Their products are made in Taiwan and Vietnam, and they partner with recycling specialists in these areas to ensure the highest quality of clothing. They also have an SA8000 certification which is similar to the Fairtrade certification for integrity surrounding working conditions. Finally, and maybe the most fun, on each product page, they have a breakdown of exactly what the item is made from, so you know exactly where your leggings have been! Sézane On the luxury end of the scale, Sézane is the brand to round off the eco-friendly portion of this article. Three quarters of the items they make are certified as being eco-friendly. They have a B-Corp certification for transparency, and therefore accountability, for their production lines and work practices. Sézane’s charitable endeavours have raised over 4.5 million euros for DEMAIN, a philanthropic group for equal opportunities. Finally, on the 21st of every month, 10% of their global sales, and 100% of the proceeds from one chosen design are donated to programs that support equal opportunities for children around the globe.

Image via @Sezane on Instagram.

With beautifully crafted handbags and other leather goods, Sézane is a brilliant choice for the discerningly climate conscious and elegant.

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THE BAD: Uniqlo And now onto the ugly. Realising that chic and understated Japanese brand Uniqlo was at fault for greenwashing duping customers into believing that they engage in ethical and sustainable practices - was a hard lesson to learn. Although the brand claims to have taken some steps towards sustainability, the brand has not been transparent about the results of their targets for reducing emissions in their supply chain, hinting at a lack of actual commitment to the cause. The targets they set were also not scientifically approved, meaning that their actual benefits for the environment are both hard to prove and potentially nil. With its cool understated branding model, Uniqlo claims to use ecofriendly textiles, and yet, fails to produce any sort of certification proving this… H&M More specifically, the ‘Conscious’ collection.

In 2019, this line was launched promoting eco-friendly products.

selling of old clothes from multiple brands.

Their marketing was seen as deceptive because of the colors and statements they used, and they ultimately had to apologise as the Norwegian Consumer Authority deemed their advertising to be illegal.

This endeavor makes the brand appear concerned about their environmental impact and follows the ‘ASOS Marketplace’ model which does the same thing.

Not only are H&M guilty of extremely dubious production lines and lacking transparency, they also greenwashed their way into the consumer’s head by wrongly touting themselves as uber sustainable. Pretty Little Thing Finally, falling under the umbrella of extremely fast fashion that has grown on the internet market, Pretty Little Thing has been known to commit the cardinal sins of green washing. The company is owned by the Boohoo corporation, which has separately come under fire for claiming their pieces are more environmentally friendly than they are. Pretty Little Thing, though, has come under specific fire after the launch of Pretty Little Thing Marketplace’, a second-hand internet forum for the

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However, this development does not change the highly damaging practices of Pretty Little Thing to the environment because of their quick turnaround, cheap materials, and returns policy that results in a great many items being sent to landfill. Hopefully this article has made choosing where to shop to help the planet a little easier, although these brands are getting smarter and smarter at leaning into the eco-friendly aesthetic wherever they think it will boost their sales. You can read more of Em’s work on her twitter @emponcia Images via respective retailer's social medias.


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AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

Designers: Black$snowmerch Ethnicity Clothing Fresh By Douton Gugu Boutique LN Watches Mary Martin London Massassi B Mya M Designs Sluvin Designs Twelve19style

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STYLE (CONS CIOUS) GUIDE

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SELECTED BY RHIANNON D'AVERC

STARRY CRADLES Alexandrite Ring $295

NET-A-PORTER Manolo Blahnik Hangisi 90 embellished velvet pumps £945

HERVÉ LÉGE Icon cutout recycled-bandage mini dress £515 GRAINNE MORTON Multilayer Balance Victorian Drop Earrings £975

PRIME LONDON Slv Less Sequin Embr 3D Flower Detail Dress Price upon request

KHU KHU Let's Dance Fan £40

EACH X EVERY Poise Black Heels £220

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STYLE (CONS CIOUS


AUGEO PUELLA Silver Bullet Tom Ford Blazer £729.00

U.M I - 1

CELEBRATE IN STYLE

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Kaftan Shirt - Black £135.00

GANOR DOMINIC Phoebe in Black £380.00

ST ESSENTIALS £245.00 Eco-Friendly Loose Glitter Pigment Eyeshadow Golden Sands £7.00

NN07 Black Alex Straight-Leg Organic Cotton-Blend Twill Chinos £155

STYLE CONS CIOUS)

SEM SEM Crystal-embellished plissé-satin maxi dress £927.00

MONICA VINADER 18ct Gold Plated Vermeil Silver Fiji Bud Cuff Bracelet £150.00

GRAINNE MORTON Five Charm with Victorian Drop Earrings £445.00

NICASCONCEPT GLITTER 03 MINI BAG £158.00

GUREA Serida Gold High Heel Sandal £249.00

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SMALL BUSINESS SFW RUNWAY

Name of company: SFW RUNWAY Type of business: Fashion Accelerator Location: New York based but we also operate in Los Angeles How long has the company been running? Since 2016 Where did the idea come from? Fashion shows can be a really great tool to introduce designers to new audiences while helping them strengthen their brand's credibility. The initial idea for SFW RUNWAY came during founder, Naomi Alabi's time working for IMG; one of the biggest production platforms in the world. I saw that most designers that fit that category of street-style were being denied an opportunity to showcase and are often looked down upon. I saw this as a great opportunity to create something that serves a group of people that fashion gatekeepers did not want to recognize as important. Our vision for SFW RUNWAY continues to grow as we continue to serve more designers and get to know what their needs are. Currently, how many people work for the business? The company is run primarily by founder Naomi Alabi with a number of freelancers. We are currently onboarding an advisory board and other industry professionals to help take SFW RUNWAY to the next level. So far, the business has also been self funded but for the first time, we are also fund raising to help us build a headquarters that will serve as a hub offering co-working space and work stations to our designers. Photographers: Laurencassot, Lam Creative Director: SFW RUNWAY @sfwrunway Designers: Syko Design House @sykodesignhouse

What are your company values? Our primary mission is to provide a voice for underrepresented emerging designers. Our vision for helping these emerging designers surmount the barriers to entry into the fashion industry through a series of values. These values include Supporting Artistic Expression, we believe representation matters, we are against confining creativity through rules. What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? My advice to anyone who wants to start a business would be to get educated about your industry. I also think it's important to connect and take advantage of every resource available to you. For example, at the start of your business you may not be immediately able to hire an accountant, you can connect with financial institutions that offer this service pro-bono. Build departments for your business and operate as an established business even before you are ready. Join an accelerator, incubator, or other growth programs that will keep you accountable toward creating a company infrastructure that will position you for growth. Also join a community of like minded people to help keep your spirits up. Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years time? Our greatest vision is to inspire emerging designers to reimagine current systems in fashion. We need solutions for the way people currently produce and consume fashion. In 5 years, we hope to strengthen our platform to be able to support these emerging brands with manufacturing resources, branding, and marketing solutions. We also hope to have strategic partnerships with companies whose mission align with ours.


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COVERS 2022 PAGE 67


greatest pleasure THE IN LIFE IS

love

Fashion Designer: Elena Collection @elenacollectionla Photographer: Kevin Gallagher @gallagherfamilyphotography Models: Taeho K @taehokay, Kaitlyn Kaylee Brown @theofficialkaitlynbrown Products/Accessory Designer: Love N Makeup By Mzb @mzblovenmakeup







JANE

Production: ANeMAproject anemaproject Master Photographer: Matteo Anatrella Photographers: Rosa Piscopo, Ambra Galliano, Luigi Rossi, Domenico Capasso, Maria Cristina Buia, Gianluca Costagliola, Fracesca Sincero, Gerardo Capriglione Stylist: Annarita Mattei Assistant Stylist: Sara Limone Model: Yusay Special thanks and wardrobe: Nueve Showroom Ph Back: Guiseppe Maturo Location: Palaroccia Napoli







LONDON RUNWAY Images via Dyelog PR

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CLAUDIA WANG

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Images via Dyelog PR


Photographer: Karl M. Lee @karl_fashion_photographer Wardrobe Stylist/Fashion Designer/Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Malka Cohen @Sol_beauty_makeup Model: Lexus Coleman @mochahontas_28






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PARTY FOOD THAT CATERS TO ALL DIETARY REQUIREMENTS

1. Almond Butter Freezer Fudge There’s nothing like something sweet and a little bit messy for people to sink their fingers into. This fudge is pretty amazing. It’s vegan and free of gluten, grains, refined sugar, and soy. And it’s raw! To make the fudge, you need: · 1 1/2 cups smooth almond butter · 1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons coconut oil · 1/4 cup maple syrup · 1/4-1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, to taste And for the chocolate topping: · 3 tablespoons coconut oil · 1.5 tablespoons maple syrup · 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder · Pinch of fine sea salt

Directions: 1. Lightly grease a loaf pan (9"x5" should fit this recipe perfectly) and line with a piece of baking paper 2. In a small pan, add the coconut oil, maple syrup, and salt (only the fudge ingredients – we’ll make the chocolate topping afterwards). Stir over a low heat until the coconut oil is melted 3. Slowly pour this mixture into a bowl with the almond butter, stirring as you go, until completely smooth, runny, and combined. 4. Spoon the mixture into your prepared greased and lined pan. Smooth it out with a spatula for an even finish. Place into the freezer for around an hour, or until the fudge has set solid. 5. Now let’s make the chocolate topping! Melt the oil over a low heat once again.

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Rhiannon D’Averc suggests some food ideas you can serve at a party to suit everyone – vegan, gluten-free, nutfree, or to fit any diet your guests may have… When you are getting ready to host a party, things are never straightforward. You’d love to just serve fondue, but your cousin Claire is vegan and wouldn’t be able to eat it. Maybe you can go for some kind of sandwiches and pretend it’s afternoon tea – oh, but then you remember that Hannah from next door is gluten free. And then of course your sister is currently avoiding sugar, while Jason has given up carbs… So what are you going to do? Make an individual spread for every person? To make things simpler, you could try a range of these party foods, which should tick the box for just about everyone!

6. Remove it from the heat and whisk in the maple syrup, cocoa powder, and salt, until you have a smooth mixture. 7. Place the chocolate sauce in the fridge for several minutes until thickened slightly. 8. Slice the slab of fudge into small squares and separate them out onto a large plate lined with baking paper, leaving about a half-inch of space between each piece. 9. Ladle or spoon the chocolate sauce over each square until topped nicely 10. Place the plate back into the freezer until the chocolate has set solid. 11. If you want to be fancy, sprinkle on some flaked sea salt, to taste (this step is optional). 12. Serve!


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2. Vegetable Crisps with Olive Tapenade Crisps have always been essential party food. These ones are vegan and gluten free, and they also contain no added sugar. You can make your crisps and tapenade from scratch, but if you're

short on time, you can pick up several options in shops. The plus point of these crisps is that they’re pretty special, and the olive tapenade gives this an adult twist – not the stuff of your childhood parties!

We’ve picked out this Sainsbury's Green Olive Tapenade with Lemon & Capers, £2.50, and Tyrrells Mixed Root Vegetable Sharing Crisps, £2.30, but other options are available at most supermarkets.

3. Roasted Chickpeas Chickpea allergies do exist, though they are rare, so check first – but so long as no one at the party is allergic to them, this will go down a treat. You can make them spicy or sweet, simple or complex. And your guests can grab them right out of the bowl to munch on. The recipe is pretty simple: toss your chickpeas with whatever spices, herbs, sauce, or flavorings you want to add, and then stick them in the oven until crispy and crunchy.

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4. Superfood Bread If you want sandwiches or bruschetta, then you may need to seek out a vegan and gluten-free option like this one. It’s super tasty and also super healthy as a bonus. Make sure your guests are aware that there can be nuts used in some recipes though – just in case of allergies.

If you want something to spread on it, guacamole is good for just about everyone. We picked out this Holy Guacamole, £2.20, and Guiltless Gourmets Keto Fresh Bread Gluten Free Low Carb Bread, £12.99 for a pack of three.

5. Sweet Potato Wedges These wedges are incredibly easy to make and are always going to go down a treat. They are gluten-free, vegan friendly, and also super healthy compared to normal wedges. The less oil you can get away with using, the better. If you have an air fryer, so much the better! Just cut and season the wedges, leaving the skin on for extra benefits, and then toss them in the fryer according to your usual settings. If you don’t have an air fryer, baking them in the oven will suffice.

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6. Mediterranean Platter This is a pretty traditional arrangement, just with a couple of twists. Leave off the flatbread and serve with fresh veggies, and this platter is to die for. Houmous is always a great dip option for a range of diets. This will definitely top off your party spread.

Figs are also a great addition. If you don’t have vegans coming, add Italian cheeses such as mozzarella balls – or if gluten-free isn’t important, you can add flatbreads and pitta chips, like Piper’s Garlic and Herb Sharing Pitta Chips for £2.50.

No matter what kind of party you’re hosting and who’s coming, there are always great options! And remember – if you have people with dietary requirements who will be regular guests, you can invest in specialist cookbooks to give you even more ideas.

It will be vegan, gluten free, low sugar, and absolutely delicious in all ways. We recommend Ramona’s Heavenly Original Houmous at £3 . Slice up fresh carrots, bell peppers, and cucumber along with some olives and on-the-vine cherry tomatoes (roasted or raw).

Read more of Rhiannon’s work at twitter.com/rhiannondaverc

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GAYEON LEE

Images via Dyelog PR


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AFRICA FASHION WEEK LONDON Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino

Designers: Fashion by Ashani Piillz N Poizn Soboye

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Part 2


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Candice brings you dazzling New Year dresses to start the year with a bang!

Aries March 21 - April 20

Noumenon - Grecia Dress Noir With cut-out waist detailing and an effortless midi length, this Grecia Dress by Noumenon screams 2023 Aries!

Taurus April 21 - May 21

La DoubleJ - Soirée Sequined Floral-print Satin Dress This earth sign will love the floral accents of La DoubleJ's Winter Jasmine print. The black and white sequins are strategically arranged to draw the eyes of onlookers captivated by the graceful nature of Tauruses.

Gemini May 22- June 21

Reformation - Alanis Silk Dress in Verdigris One shoulder with a faux wrap skirt, this flattering mini dress falls and sits elegantly with an allure that draws your eyes, very much so like a Gemini. The playful length also speaks to their friendly, bubbly natures, allowing them to freely pop from person to person during any occasion!

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Cancer June 22- July 22 Guardi - Alisha Champagne Dress Very fitting for this issue, the Alisha Champagne Dress by Guardi will look stunning on the elegant Cancer. Looking almost “liquid-like in the light”, this asymmetrical dress features a high collar and tie-back bow design that vintageloving Cancers will adore!

Leo July 23- August 21 Bastet Noir - The May Dress Inspired by Martha May Whovier from The Grinch, a fellow Leo, this form-fitting dress is perfectly accented with a cutout neckline, high slit, and 70s inspired padded shoulders and bell sleeves.

Virgo August 22- September 23 RAEY - Multi-seam Twist-strap Silk Dress A twist on the little black dress, this maxi floor-length black dress is nicely accented with twist straps. The plunging neckline contrasted with the modest dress length will drape beautifully on the sophisticated Virgo.

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Libra September 24- October 23

ROKSANDA - Asymmetric Draped Silksatin Gown Fuschia-pink balanced with an “asymmetric floor-pooling hem” and side ruching, this elegantly designed piece enhances the Libra’s charming natures!

Scorpio

October 24- November 22

Reformation - Parma Silk Dress in Night Garden This ankle-length slip dress features a subtle bronze gold floral design. It perfectly encapsulates all the best features of a Scorpio and makes a statement in the chicest, Scorpio way possible.

Sagittarius

November 23- December 22

Extreme Cashmere - No.209 Attraction Stretch-cashmere Maxi Dress The roll neck provides a cosy warmth Sagittariuses will appreciate while the waist cord and drop-shoulder sleeves loosely hug and showcase their figures. Comfort comfort comfort is key!

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Capricorn December 23- January 20

Herth - Roy Gold Sand: GOTS Organics Silk Pants With a seamless day to evening versatility, these trousers provide Capricorns with both form and function that lets them smash through the day and party through the night with ease! Featuring a high-rise elasticated waist and side slip pockets.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19

Guardi - Ophelia Emerald Velvet Dress Velvet is always the move for a glamorous New Year look. With the vintage emerald green, ruched detailing, and v-cut neckline, this sultry dress will be a timeless addition to any Aquarian’s wardrobe!

Pisces February 20 - March 20

Selkie - The Chalk Dust Floral Romance Novel A new year with the same old daydreaming Pisces, this fairytale dress will whisk them away and others enchanted by their whimsical allure. Featuring a ruffle neckline and hem, an off-the-shoulder design, and a maxi silhouette.

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. Zodiac illustrations by Lauren Rowley All images via respective retailers

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MISHUS Images via Dyelog PR

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Images via Dyelog PR

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Images via Dyelog PR


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RAY CHU

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WHY YOU SHOULD MAKE YOUR NEW YEARS RESOLUTIONS MORE REALISTIC January is around the corner, and for many of us, that means three thing— the post-Christmas blues, a long slog to payday and the pressures of New Years' Resolutions. Come February, most of us have undoubtedly failed the impossible goals we set for ourselves to transform our minds, body, and souls, leaving us feeling lower than ever.

2. Become fluent in a new language. I asked a friend what her New Year's Resolution was going to be and she responded, “Try and learn Spanish lol”. This statement beautifully summed up how most of us feel about learning a new language from scratch. It is an unbelievable achievement, and it opens you up to a thousand more opportunities, making your life richer.

But it doesn’t have to be that way. In our current climate, when living is a little bit more difficult, we should use the new year as a vehicle for making our goals more manageable and accepting ourselves as we are. So, if you’re still wanting to try a little self-improvement but find you always set yourself unrealistic goals, Nell has collated a list of the most cliched resolutions and made them a little kinder. 1. Lose weight The industry knows that we’ve indulged in delicious food over the holidays and partied a little more than usual, so their marketing ramps up in the new year, igniting insecurities that we’ve tried to keep at bay. Your social media feed will slowly transition from warming winter recipes, present ideas, and Christmas party OOTNs to diet plans, exercise guides, and discounts on gym leggings.

However, it’s also laughably difficult. This is not to say you shouldn’t try, but if you haven’t sat in a language class since school and you’re not planning to live abroad anytime soon, it’s probably not going to happen. So, as an alternative, I propose this. or continue reading to find a different resolution not linked to your appearance. I certainly know what I’d rather do. I won’t claim that finding new challenges will keep the pressure to transform your body at bay, but if it allows you a bit of distraction from the ‘New Year, New Body’ brigade, I’m happy.

You might think that you’re above this and that you can ignore these not-sosubtle messages to make your body smaller, but if you’ve ever struggled with body image, January is a tough month. In my experience, there is almost no way to make losing weight a kind goal, so from here, we have three options— succumb to the pressure and spend three to four weeks dedicated to a weight loss plan that will leave you more unhappy and insecure than ever, live as a hermit until the hype wears off,

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Take this year to learn enough to ‘get by’ in a new place. Enough so that if you ever go on holiday you won’t be that person shouting in English in the hope that it makes you more coherent. If you’ve managed that by next December (amazing), you’ll know that learning a new language is manageable and you’ll be less likely to give it up.


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3. Read a new book every week

through TikTok.

Most of us spend far too much time online and it would do us good to pick up a book once in a while. But are you going to read a new book? Every week? I think not.

It also means you can try new books whilst doing other tasks and won’t have to dedicate your time solely to reading, which is unrealistic for many of us with our schedules and commitments. It’s also important to choose your books wisely. If you’ve never been a big reader, committing yourself to finally reading War and Peace is not going to happen. Go for books you know you’ll enjoy, even if it’s something trashy.

Instead, try listening to audio books from your phone. If I do say so myself, this is genius as your phone will already be in use. You will be less likely to open a notification or feel like scrolling

The point here is that you’re reading to

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relax your mind, not to impress anyone by quoting Tolstoy. 4. Get organised Okay, first of all, what does this even mean? Setting yourself a vague goal like this is setting yourself up for failure. Before you make this your resolution, define what area of your life you want to make more streamlined. If you forget things, make daily to-do lists so you can trust yourself to remember.


LONDON RUNWAY In 2023, I won’t be advising you to delete everything and buy a brick phone. Moreover, I don’t want to deny you the simple pleasure of watching videos of cows and dogs making friends. However, what worked for me was deleting the apps so that you can only access the worst culprits through your browser. It makes using social media frustrating and clunky so you won’t be tempted to spend too long on your phone, limiting the number of enviable posts you might see in a day. As sad as it is, bouts of low self-esteem are a fact of life as there will always be external and internal messages telling us that we are not good enough. Therefore, you should resolve to not beat yourself up if you do have a bad body image day.

If you’re always late, identify the reason. Maybe you aren’t getting enough sleep, take too long to choose an outfit, or make small changes so that you have more time.

It’s only if these bad days are becoming frequent and impacting your life drastically that it should be a cause for concern. From here, it’s all about slightly altering your language so that you can still commit to improving your confidence without getting too militant about it.

If you’re messy, you’ll always be messy (take it from me), so embrace the chaos. It’s essential to add, if you’re setting a goal like this for yourself, you’re probably already a pretty organised person. Therefore, this might be a good chance to reflect on the areas of your life where you have made good progress. You don’t need to commit to a full overhaul of your life each January that will actually add to your workload. 5. Learn to love your body This is an incredibly important one and something we should strive for, but adding extra pressure to view yourself as a goddess, superhero, or icon 100% of the time is only going to make things worse. Committing the new year to ‘Loving Your Body’ is a massive task to undertake alone, so if this is still your goal, I’ve broken it down a little. First up is pinpointing what exactly causes you to feel like you aren’t beautiful. For many of us, this will probably be social media.

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If unconditional self-love is too much of an ask at the moment, aim for selfacceptance or body neutrality. Focusing on loving your body still places attractiveness as your most important asset and detracts from your other brilliant qualities. Accepting your body as a vessel to experience life rather than the be-all and end-all of your existence might be a better way to go. You might think these approaches to New Years’ Resolutions are remarkably cynical. God knows we all need a boost and entering January with a go-getting #GIRLBOSS attitude would be ideal, but I’m here to tell you that falling short of this is not a crime. We all are dealing with remarkably different circumstances. Aiming to become the perfect person who is well-read, goes to spin, is fluent in Italian, and wakes up at 5am to tidy their bedroom will only end up in burnout. So, this year, by all means, set yourself new challenges, but above all, be realistic and be kind to yourself.

To see more of what Nell has written, visit @nelllanne on Instagram.


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