THE DEFINITIVE CATWALK COLLECTIONS
LONDON RUNWAY
THE LFW ISSUE
MARCH 2025
97
RRP £16.99
LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON RUNWAY EDITOR IN CHIEF
LEAD PHOTOGRAPHER
RHIANNON D'AVERC
FIL MAZZARINO
editor@londonrunway.co.uk
CONTRIBUTORS Hattie Payne, Justine Laeufer, Extraordinaire, Chris Yates, Idea PR, The Pop Group, Purple PR, James Cochrane, saneozman, Stefano Renegat Assisi, Elisabeth Rosanò, Jamie Jonk, Michael Haasbroek, Tatjana Tasso, Ingrida Kuznecova, Petra Fedurová, Jan Vesely, Svatební salon Eden, Daria Novikova, Malika Sbay, Jhow Ferso, Natalia Farrell, Carla Salado, Jenny Li, Emily Nayhree Dawson, Avril Song, Jic Bernabe, Eilidh Barn at Wozniak Management, Samuel Joseph Mitchell at Oi Agency, The Lobby, Marcus Hartelt, DH PR, Ben Broomfield, Harriet Hunt Communications, Agency Eleven, Karla Otto, Black PR, Raven, Cerruti, The CP Concept, IPR, FkyAvi, Oscar Finnie, Sarah Morton PR, Alberto Maddaloni, benbradishellames, Dyelog PR, Olu Ogunshakin, Alla Bogdanovic, 223 Agency, Go Runway, Suleika Mueller, Kostya Ivayshin, Ethan James Green, Nicoló Urbani, Roger Dean, Eilwen Jones, Ben Montgomery Photography, Stephen Elwyn Smith, rosslynphotography, Lily Skye, Kenosha ‘Kenny’ Washington, Alexandra Noelle, Sarah Kamsin, Projekt Von Anna, A. Mazig, Vitalij Sidorovic Special Thanks to Demi Clothings and Inclusive Fashion Show London
FRONT COVER: Aarti Vijay Gupta via The Lobby
FIND US: londonrunway.co.uk @londonrunwaymag kavyar.com/london-runway-magazine open.spotify.com/show/7lAsQPLEK5006JfZmOWEgt
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© 2024, London Runway Ltd and contributors. Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Recycle this issue if you no longer want it, don’t contribute to landfill. The pages make excellent collage material or a challenging medium for designing a dress.
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CONTENTS
LONDON RUNWAY
Meet Demi Clothings
5
Samantha Siu
114
Celebrating Every Voice, Every Body: The Inclusive Fashion Show London Redefines Diversity in Style
5
Pearl Academy
116
Kent&Curwen
119
This Season
6
Mithridate
125
Stephen Jones Millinery
9
Ahkeke
130
Tifaret
10
INFDARK
134
Aadnevik
13
Dreaming Eli
137
Karina Bond
17
Yaku
139
India Day HCI London by NIF Global & London School of Trends
19
Richard Quinn
142
Keburia
25
On|Off: The Disruptors
148
completedworks
29
Noon by Noor
150
Barrus
30
Yuhan Ao
154
Chet Lo
34
Ray Chu
156
Morocco Kingdom of Light
37
Edeline Lee
158
New Faces
43
Global Fashion Collective
162
Flair Fashion Frontier
51
Harris Reed
166
New Faces
57
UA in UK
169
Aarti Vijay Gupta
65
16Arlington
174
Erdem
70
Pippa Todorson
177
LEM
76
S.S. Daley
180
Simone Rocha
79
Malan Breton
185
POET-LAB
86
London College of Fashion, UAL
189
Royal Ascot Milinery Collective
88
Justin Cassin
208
Jawara Alleyne
91
Genaro Rivas
214
Toga
94
Fashion Hong Kong
217
Hector Maclean
98
Naomi Hart
221
Sinead Gorey
100
Tursi
222
Banshee of Saville Row
104
s-d-c-a
223
Wanni Fuga
106
New Business
224
Fashion East
108
Brand Directory
225
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LONDON RUNWAY
EDITOR'S LETTER We return to London for the first Fashion Week of 2025, and this year is, like always, a real stunner. There were some stand-out moments both on catwalks and front rows, with celebrity models stepping out on a number of catwalks and watching with wide eyes. Of course, we’re not swayed by celebrity here - unless you’re talking celebrity designers, because we’re all about the fashion and nothing else. We continue, issue by issue, to work towards our eventual goal of covering all of the on-schedule shows during the whole of London Fashion Week. As you may imagine by the fact that this issue is already weighty enough, that will mean a certain expansion of the number of pages we are able to print - something that is not sustainable for us right now. Instead, we bring you what we can our personalised, curated selection of most of the on-schedule fashion shows, with a few guest spots from our esteemed sponsors here and there.
Many things have changed for us over the years, but one thing you can count on is that we will always attempt to highlight the brands we feel are worth celebrating. Sometimes, that means not covering a brand that might be bigger in order to prioritise one that is new and exciting. Sometimes, it means turning down the opportunity to work with a larger sponsor - and make more money to reinvest in the magazine - because we want to keep hold of our integrity. After all, in this ever-changing and ever-challenging landscape of print publication in the 21st century, there are very few things one can hold onto for long - and so integrity really should be one of them. As ever, we don’t know what the future holds. We hope to bring you two more issues this year: one covering and celebrating the stunning student designers of Graduate Fashion Week, and the third issue of the year returning to cover September’s London Fashion Week (to be in your hands by the end of October).
Those are our plans, but it’s worth noting that plans don’t always come to fruition. In the past, we’ve changed our format, changed our schedule, and even changed our content in order to evolve and adapt, to stay alive, and to keep going in a new way. That’s always the goal. It couldn’t happen, of course, without two groups: our sponsors, who are often the only people keeping our doors open, and you, our wonderful readers. So, today, I ask you this: can you take one small action to help keep London Runway alive for another season? It could be as simple as sharing this issue with a friend - perhaps passing it on when you’ve finished reading it, sending them the link to the digital edition, or sharing one of our posts. It could be as meaningful as promoting your own brand, if you have one, through a sponsorship that gives us the very life we need in order to promote your brand. Whatever you can: we’re grateful for you, every last one.
, y o j En n o n n a i Rh x
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LONDON RUNWAY
MEET DEMI CLOTHINGS We had the opportunity to speak with Abidemi Ayoku, the Creative Director behind an exciting brand you need to know. LR: How would you describe your brand and the women who wear it? AA: Demi Clothings is a contemporary fashion brand based in Lagos, Nigeria. It was established in 2016, to bring out the confidence in women and make them look stunning. She’s all about celebrating the confidence, individuality, and strength of women. Our collection blends contemporary styles with timeless elegance, offering pieces that are both chic and versatile for any occasion. From polished workwear to relaxed weekend attire, Demi Clothings ensures women feel stylish and comfortable at all times. The women who wear Demi Clothings are confident, dynamic, and embrace their own unique beauty. Our customers span from Nigeria to the UK, Canada, USA, and other countries. They understand that fashion is about self-expression, choosing pieces that make them feel empowered and ready to conquer anything. Whether they’re building careers, pursuing creative passions, or exploring new adventures, they value quality, craftsmanship, and designs that reflect their bold, sophisticated personalities. What can we expect from your latest collection? Our latest Demi Clothings collection, ELEGANCE,
is all about embracing versatility and effortless elegance with a modern twist. Expect a range of pieces that seamlessly transition from day to night, designed with both style and comfort in mind. We've focused on clean lines, flattering silhouettes, and high-quality fabrics including our traditional fabrics, Aso-Oke, that allow for movement and ease. You’ll find everything from tailored two pieces and sophisticated midi and maxi dresses torelaxed, yet polished, separates—perfect for women who appreciate both sophistication and practicality. Expect bold colors, subtle prints, and unique details that bring a fresh take on classic staples. This collection is made for the modern woman who values timeless style and effortless confidence. What inspires your designs? Our designs are inspired by the strength and uniqueness of women. We draw influence from nature and art, combining these elements with the everyday needs of the stylish woman. Where can people follow you or shop your latest collection? You can follow us on Instagram at @demi_clothings and on Facebook at Demi Clothings for the latest updates, style inspiration, and behind-the-scenes looks. To shop our newest collection, visit us at demiclothings.com. Images via Demi Clothings
CELEBRATING EVERY VOICE, EVERY BODY: THE INCLUSIVE FASHION SHOW LONDON REDEFINES DIVERSITY IN STYLE. The Inclusive Fashion Show, created by diverse model agency DL Models Ltd, is a celebration of diversity, focusing on models of all shapes, sizes, abilities, and backgrounds, showcasing adaptive fashion for disabled people alongside conventional collections. Our aim is to bring greater visibility to the importance of representation in fashion by promoting designers who are paving the way for inclusive, accessible fashion for all. On Saturday, 15th February 2025, at the stunning Peckham Levels, we’re creating more than just a fashion event—we’re creating a movement. This show is about giving real beauty a platform, making it more accessible, and celebrating the diversity that makes every body unique. We’re redefining what it means to belong on a runway, with models who represent all abilities, identities, and walks of life—from those with disabilities to neurological differences, curve models, LGBTQ+, and trans individuals.
CEO Debbie-Lyn, named in Global Women’s top 100 women entrepreneurs, says: “For as long as I can remember, I've dreamed of a world where fashion embraces every body where no one feels left out, invisible, or unworthy. As a plussize model living with Functional Neurological Disorder (FND) and ADHD, l've faced my fair share of challenges. But those difficulties have only fuelled my determination to create a fashion world that celebrates diversity and inclusion.” Images via DL Sustainable Apparel
We’re beyond thrilled to be launching not just fashion shows, but actual careers- we’re making waves at TIFS (The Inclusive Fashion Show), and we’re only just getting started! We’ve already got 3 sell-out events behind us, in Southport, Liverpool, and Manchester, and we are heading to Birmingham and Edinburgh after we make our mark on the London fashion scene. As a newly formed platform, we’ve already seen some incredible transformations. Our mission isn’t just to showcase talent—it’s to create opportunities, connect people with industry pros, and help emerging models and designers take their careers to the next level.
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LONDON RUNWAY
THIS SEASON Explained by Rhiannon D’Averc with Hattie Payne
FASHION Florals for spring? Groundbreaking. And yet, here we are. Florals dominated at a number of designers amongst them Erdem, Tifaret, Simone Rocha, and Richard Quinn. These ranged from floral prints to appliques, with 3D flowers making a big appearance. Ahkeke did not explicitly show florals, but did take their entire colour palette from the inspiration of a hidden garden in London, with soft pastels mimicking the colours of the flowers and plants that grow there. Tailored suits were strong this year, with many designers preferring their women to power dress. Notable examples came from Banshee of Saville Row, Toga, Noon by Noor, Yuhan Ao, Ray Chu, Bettie Haute Couture showcasing with Fashion
Hong Kong and - as always - Malan Breton. The colours of the season appear to be black and white. While many designers opted for a pop of bold colour here and there, monochrome outfits took centre stage. INFDARK took inspiration from ravens for their geometric prints, while 16Arlington’s looks were sleek and sculptured, creating very strong silhouettes. Other designers getting in on the monochrome trend included Richard Quinn, Mithridate, POET-LAB, Noon by Noor, and Yuhan Ao. Styling took a nod to the past on many catwalks. From Bettie Haute Couture’s traditional British shapes in earthy checks and tartan, move to the Grace Kelly fitted waists and flared skirts of Richard Quinn and Erdem. Everything was very elegant, very demure, very mindful - unless, of course, you turned your eye towards the designers leaning more towards the punk. Angus Tsui at Fashion Hong Kong gave us intricate pattern cutting, pleating techniques, and fabric experimentation with a punk/sci-fi bent, while Tara Kari at Global Fashion Collective and Chet Lo loved their reds and blacks. Harris Reed gave us glam punk in an extravagant style. And, of course, Dreaming Eli continued their signature style of romantic draped, torn, and wispy fabric hanging off their smokey-eyed models. A pecularity of this season was a rather unnattractive (in this Editor’s opinion) shade of brown fur, which ‘graced’ catwalks from Simone Rocha t Toga and Sinead Gorey. If you must do fur, of course, it goes without saying that it must be faux; this fashion
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moment may, we hope, be short-lived. Art was part of the story at Erdem, with hand-painted portraits printed onto soft and flowing fabrics for an ethereal feel. Over at Harris Reed, hand-painted accents on the clothes accentuated the curves and lines of the wearers’ bodies. S.S. Daley featured painted scenes on coats and dresses. Inspiration was also artistic: Bettie Haute Couture drew from the Bauhaus movement, while Tifaret was inspired by Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1964 film Red Desert. Some designers opted to strike a completely different note - see Barrus’ use of glowing sunset shades - and these we applaud for going against the grain. It’s not easy when a fashion movement grows organically, and the same culture inspires all.
HAIR
Many shows featured soft, flowing, and natural hair, allowing the styles to echo the shape of clothes crafted from soft and flowing fabrics. These included Erdem, Noon by Noor, both designers at Global Fashion Collective, UA in UK, and many more. Others opted for a scraped-back, slicked-down look, removing the hair as much as possible from the frontfacing view of the model and allowing for more of a focus on the clothes. You can see examples of this on the models at Malan Breton, 16Arlington, Harris Reed, Edeline Lee, and so on. Some designers, it must be noted, opted to do away with models altogether. They showcased their work on mannequins (Wanni Fuga, On|Off), or simply placed jewellery and other accessories on plinths, tables, bowls, stands, and even statues (Samantha Siu, Completedworks). The increase in the use of non-model presentations in recent seasons can clearly be attributed to the cost involved in hiring professionals to stand around looking good in the clothes: use mannequins instead and you can hire or just buy once at a much lower price, allowing you to reuse them again in the future (or even in your store). Still, there is a certain magic lost in seeing the clothes and accessories presented in such a flat and undynamic way. Hair was cut shaggy at ZIDI with Fashion Hong Kong, or crisp and sophisticated at Bettie Haute Couture. A small group of designers opted for period hairstyles, coinciding with their vintage inspiration for the collections. The male models sported hair that was left, largely, to its own devices, showing a little lack of imagination. But then, what more do we normally expect of menswear?
ACCESSORIES Let’s start with the shoes: kitten heels at Erdem dusted with feathery outcroppings that could clean the floor as the models walked, wedge heels at Harris Reed, and mid-calf boots at Malan Breton. Pippa Todorson took the boots up above the knee, while Alex S. Yu left them at the ankle. Edeline Lee’s models appeared not to have legs of their, with smooth cream boots emerging from every look without a slip of skin on show. Tightrope boots appeared at both Tara Kari and INFDARK. A number of designers opted for punishingly tall heels, contorting models’ feet to tortorous heights while others opted for a sensible flat, or even a combat boot. The dual influences of escapism and preparedness for the current political climate could not be overlooked by attendees. Bags took on some interesting shapes and sizes - ZIDI models carried lengthy arch bags with their eccentric eyewear, while Tara Kari’s wore elongated handbags that would fit a bottle of red. Hand-beaded crystal embellishments, silver-thread embroidery, and larger than life bows adorned the catwalk at Barrus, leading the way in some of the key accessory trends for the season. Yuhan Ao’s models carried dramatic bouquets and leaned on suitcases, while S.S. Daley’s bags matched models’ painted and knitted clothing (including for the menswear). Aadnevik sent every model down the catwalk in a cowboy hat, while Simone Rocha’s carried draped stoles and coats over shoulders and arms rather than wearing them.
LONDON RUNWAY
BEAUTY Want a smokey eye? Of course, you do! We always do! We’ve got them on catwalks a-plenty, from INFDARK to Tara Kari and Angus Tsui. A chic red lip stole the show at Bettie Haute Couture and 16Arlington, while minimal, dewy skin kept the focus on the clothes at Harris Reed. Well, not too much - sculputural false eyelashes also spidered their shadows across models’ cheekbones.
MISE EN SCENE With the current economic climate in a state of despair, many designers were pushed to think beyond the usual perimeters of the catwalk. Intimate dinner parties, independent bookstore pop-ups, and digital installations were amongst the alternative ways designers chose to showcase their collections this season. Despite this grave decision to save money, the designers of London Fashion Week 2025 have navigated these treacherous waters with ease. Giving smaller designers a chance to be recognized, this format has proven to be far more enjoyable for designers and attendees alike.
Lips were darker and more dramatic at Noon by Noor, while the makeup was so pale at Richard Quinn as to almost obscure the models’ faces. Tifaret, Aadnevik, Chet Lo, and others kept their models natural, almost bare-faced, but others went in the opposite direction. Jean Louie Castillo at Flair Fashion Frontiers literally painted his models grey, echoing a gargoyle look. Malan Breton’s partygoing beauties wore full lip and eye looks, strikingly echoing the colours of their clothing. Genaro Rivas and Dreaming Eli opted for a dreamy, romantic gothic look, with dark eyes and lips and flashes of red.
Many designers opted for grand halls to set their stages, relying on the opulence of architects gone by to add gravitas and elegance to their shows. The most exciting traditional catwalk of the season must go to Richard Quinn, where snow drifted elegantly down to dust the shoulders of chic women fresh from a dinner or cocktail party.
Menswear looks were, by and large, bare-faced. A notable exception was Ray Chu, where the shine was on for eyes and cheekbones regardless of gender.
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LONDON RUNWAY
STEPHEN JONES MILLINERY Images by Justine Laeufer @Justine_laeufer Motion Graphics: Camilo Güell, Bailey, Aisha & Gaia, Nikolai & Alain, Jai & Daisy, Elaine & Kaia, Alaina, Hailey & Isaiah, Kaitlyn & Faith @Extraordinaire
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TIFARET
LONDON RUNWAY
Images by Chris Yates via Idea PR
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NEW
FACE
LONDON RUNWAY
PETRA Name: Petra Fedurová Age: 16 Location: České Budějovice, Czech Republik Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? I started when I was 3 years old Where are you from originally? I am from Czech Republik
What would surprise people to know about you? I love cooking. I can cook and bake almost anything you can think of. I love it when I cook for friends or family and they enjoy the food very much. It´s my passion. What are your modelling ambitions? I would like to have the experience of a world beauty pageant and be on the cover of a world fashion magazine.
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can many things specially figure skating, Latin American dances like chacha, samba, I love life in Notion.
Model: Petra Fedurová @petra.fedurova Photographer: Jan Veselý @jan_vesely_photo Wardrobe: Svatební salon Eden
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AARTI VIJAY GUPTA
LONDON RUNWAY
Images via The Lobby
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CHU
Images via by Olu Ogunshakin @oogunshakin via Dyelog PR
RAY LONDON RUNWAY
LONDON RUNWAY
S-D-C-A Images by Stephen Elwyn Smith
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NEW BUSINESS PROJEKT VON ANNA Name of company: PROJEKT von Anna Type of business: Jewelry Location: Minneapolis, MN
A more tangible outlet - allowing me to be more tactile in my expression - PROJEKT von Anna has fostered my creative growth on a personal and professional level each and every day.
How long has the company been running, and where did the idea come from? PROJEKT von Anna began as a simple wish to build my own statement necklace. In school, there were a few pieces that I wore layered together, but they never quite gave me the look I desired. It wasn’t until an idea for a second statement necklace came forward that I was determined to make the first, conceived a number of years prior. Finally, on one glorious evening in June 2018, the first two projects, now fondly referred to as PROJEKTs, were born. I was immersed in nothing short of a “production phase”, with inspiration coming from everywhere including influences from cinema, interior design, and art.
What are your company values? Creativity, open inspiration, structure, and freedom What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? Follow your curiosity and inspiration, and then guide those with discipline. Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years? I'm open to see where it goes - it's been a fun ride so far! Wardrobe Stylist: Kenosha ‘Kenny’ Washington @blacknvni Models: Alexandra Noelle @alexandraaa_noelle, Sarah Kamsin @sarahbkamsin Accessory Designer: Projekt Von Anna @projektvonanna Photographer: A. Mazig @amaziginc
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LONDON RUNWAY
DAMIRA8 SACRED TREASHURES
DL MODELS LTD
BRAND DIRECTORY
DL Models empowers aspiring diverse models by providing guidance, training, and opportunities to help them achieve their full potential and succeed in the industry. dlmodelsltd.com @dl_models_ltd michelle@dlmodelsltd.com
Handmade jewelry & artifacts. Exclusive & unique design for wellbeing & your harmonious evolution. With meaning & individual selection of minerals, metals & sacred symbols. damira8.com @damira8treashures oksanamiraom@gmail.com +491627427633
KEKA KEKA is a vibrant Ukrainian brand that epitomizes the spirit of creativity and camaraderie among like-minded individuals. keka.com.ua/ @keka_fashion contact@keka.com.ua
LEM GEORGIA We are a slow fashion brand and produce catwalk collections, accessories, and headwear lemniguriani.com @lem.brand.georgia lem.brand.georgia@gmail.com +995599584639
HASSANA DUADA
MAYFAIR PEARLS
High earn clothing brand focusing on form and function hassanaduada.com @Hassana_duada contact@hassanaduada.com
Luxury jewellery brand specialising in baroque pearls and unique gemstone designs mayfairpearls.com @mayfair.pearls sales@mayfairpeals.com
DEMI CLOTHINGS
Fashion brand offering both casual and formal wear with high-quality materials, creating pieces that are versatile and timeless, perfect for fashion-forward women. demiclothings.com @demi_clothings Demi.clothings@gmail.com +2348065088783 PAGE 225
HOUSE OF IKONS International Fashion House/Fashion Shows held during Fashion Week in London houseofikons.com @hoifashionweeklondon info@houseofikons.com
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BACK COVER: Yuhan Ao by Vitalij Sidorovic (@itsvphoto)