PHOTO COMPETITION . AUTUMN/WINTER FASHION . FRAZZLED BRITISH WOMEN . CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE
FASHIONS FINEST . PAM HOGG . MOLLINI LONDON . HELEN ANTHONY . MISS AFRICA GB . FASHION LONDON
ISSUE 80 27TH NOVEMBER 2022
THE GIFTING ISSUE
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - email@example.com Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - firstname.lastname@example.org Publishing Assistant: Amber Johnson - email@example.com Lead Photographer: Fil Mazzarino Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Mrityunjoy 'MJ' Mitra Senior Graphic Designer: Lauren Rowley Staff Graphic Designers: Bruno Jorge
each issue, we let you meet one of our team members
Staff Writers: Amrit Virdi, Kwabena Gyane, Emily Poncia Advertising enquiries - firstname.lastname@example.org Submissions - londonrunway.co.uk/submit Contributors: Nell Richmond, Holly Bulbrook, Ellie Moseley, Rosie Anderton, Theo Moye, James Rudoni, Xanthe Olding, Zara Dolz, Kingdom Hudson, Kam Murali, Ari Gurdon, Eulana Alicia Kropacek, Pippa Winn, Georgia Dyer, MACAMI, Ashlee Ingram, Ozoda Muminova, Sokhiba, Studio Lowfi, Hannah-Mae Johnson, Makena Sopp, Dale Selves, Cojjoc, Ummi Chowdhury, Motifz London, Kundan Bride, Make It London, Aleksandra Nikolic, Dunja Nikolija Popov
Special thanks to Pop PR
Interested in working with us? Send your CV and covering letter to email@example.com
© 2022, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Mixam and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. Face of London Runway 2022 ambassadors are Pippa Winn and Flinn Andreae
Em is a student at the University of Oxford studying History of Art with a special interest in fashion and fashion photography. Joining London Runway as an intern in June 2022, she has written articles looking across fashion history at particular designers, as well as looks from TV.
House of Tammam
London Runway Sustainability Awards 2022
Aroosa Naushahi (Fashions Finest)
Pippa (Cover Editorial)
Lens of London Runway – the Challenge Round
Christmas Gift Guide 2022
A Guide to 2022 Autumn/Winter Fashion
A Style Merry-Go-Round: Fashion From the 60s
Pam Hogg Helen Anthony
New Business: COJJOC
Style (Conscious) Guide: Tied with a Bow
Get the look: Frazzled British Woman
The Indus Collection
Kid Cudi: Fashion's Understated Star
86 The Big Question
Miss Africa GB
Wild Bride (Editorial)
Meow at the Moon
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Welcome to the 80th issue of London Runway. It hardly feels real that we’ve already done so many issues. It seems to come around fast these days, too – every time I turn around, there’s another milestone. I swear that we just celebrated the 75th issue, but then I look back and realise it must logically have been five months ago. Well, there you are. Time moves faster the older you get! This issue, we have a Christmas spectacular for you. Our beloved Christmas Gift Guide is here as usual to wow you with all of the gifts you just can’t miss this festive season, and we’ve also got a stunning cover editorial celebrating our Face of London Runway
womenswear winner, Pippa. She stuns and sparkles in some festive looks that you will want to steal! For more style inspiration that will have you reaching for your shopping apps, look no further than both our Style (Conscious) Guide and Your Style Horoscope, both of which are just bursting with looks for the festive season. You’ll find a guide on how to dress this winter amongst our articles this month, and we’re also taking you back in time to the Swinging Sixties. Your fashion education continues with how to perfect the frazzled British woman look and a reflection on the changing style and trends of Kid Cudi.
The style inspiration doesn’t stop there, as we’re bringing you looks from plenty of London’s latest catwalks – including the tail end of our London Fashion Week coverage alongside some new shows which happened in the last month. Don’t miss our gorgeous editorials, full of enough glitter to put a swing in your step! Our last issue of the year returns on the 27th December, just in time for New Year inspiration and the chance to look ahead at what 2023 will bring. We hope you’ll be seeing the year to a close with us in style – remember to join us on Instagram @londonrunwaymag as always to take part in our advent calendar for fun and games (and plenty of prizes!). Enjoy -
LONDON RUNWAY SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS 2022 Due to popular demand, we are back with our third year of the London Runway Sustainability Awards! For those who are new to the awards, this is our chance to put the highlight on brands truly making giant leaps toward ethical and sustainable creativity and design. We are always amazed to see the amount of sustainable brands doing great things out there, so we are even more excited to see the innovative brands and people this time around. Process: Nominations will be accepted until the 15th of December. The public voting will commence in the 27th December issue when we have our final nominations, and winners will be announced in the 27th January issue! Phase 1: Nominations Comment on our call for nominations Instagram posts @londonrunwaymag on what brand you nominate for the title in each category, or you can also fill out the form on our website at londonrunway.co.uk! The categories include:
Best Cruelty-free and Sustainable Makeup Brand: a cruelty-free and ethical makeup brand Best Sustainable Store: the brand that has been at the forefront of sustainable, ethical fashion or production Best Sustainable Influencer of the Year: an individual that has promoted and encouraged a more eco-friendly way of life with a substantial social media presence Biggest Sustainable Breakthrough: a recent policy, change, or reform that has paved the ways for ecological change and positivity
Phase 2: Public Votes Determined through your guys’ votes as well as our own in-team vetting of the brands, you will have a chance to vote for your favourite brand/person via the polls across our social media platforms! The nominees with the highest votes will win the title for each respective category.
Best Sustainable Fashion Designer: the designer that devotes themselves and their work to environmentally friendly practices and methods Best Sustainable Accessories Brand: a sustainable, ethical accessories brand
The Winners: Collaborations, Digital Awards Ceremony andPrizes! To celebrate the winning brands, there will be a live stream awards ceremony to chat indepth with the winners and hear more about their story and ethos! The interviews will also give them a chance to speak on future sustainability goals and where they see the fashion industry going forward. Prizes for Winners: Interview or advertorial space inside the magazine The opportunity to take part in our annual LRSA editorial shoot Promotional posts across all of our social media Title and recognition for sustainability efforts, including a digital badge to be used on their website, social media, or packaging. If you know of any brands or creators that fit the bill, get nominating!
LENS OF LONDON RUNWAY – THE CHALLENGE ROUND We launched our Lens of London Runway competition for photographers two months ago, and now we’re ready to bring you the images our finalists have prepared for the challenge round!
This diverse group of photographers came up with a lot of diverse and interesting images, with everyone choosing to interpret the theme in their own ways.
This was an exciting test of their skills, with all of the entrants being given the same time period of just under a month to complete their challenge. They were asked to create three images for us around the theme of ‘GREEN’ – a huge key theme for us with our love of sustainability!
You can see their entries over the next few pages – and once you’ve had a look, go ahead and visit our Instagram and Facebook pages (both @londonrunwaymag) to place your vote. All you have to do is like the image you enjoy the most to give your favourite a chance of winning!
The votes will be counted alongside our judge’s scores, with the final result taken from 50% on each side. The judges will be looking at composition, technical ability, how the images look as a set and individually, and more. When the final scores are in, the winner will get the chance to shoot a cover editorial with our full support, as well as enjoying priority submissions for a whole year. Who do you think deserves the prize? Place your vote now!
Photographer - Rosie @aderynphotography Models - Madina @o.razbekova, Tajah @tajahsemplemorris Hair and Makeup - Charlie @charlie.wood.hmua, Chloe @chloe_makeupandwigs Flowers - @theflowershopbruton
MUA/Model – Daria Simut Stylist – Mihaela Rosca
Model Estere Slare wears a dress made from recycled plastic by Daisy Nefatari. Photo by Theo Moye, assisted by Joe Hancock. Theo Moye @TheoMoyePhoto Estere Slare @estereslaree Daisy Nefatari @blossombay_ Joe Hancock @burnthecurtain
I was proud to collaborate with eco-designer Sam Fenn, https://thesurreycircle.co.uk/surreystories/shore-pine-personal-discovery-offashion-industry-wastage, she designed a wonderful bespoke outfit for this shoot from green waste materials recovered from landfill. The model is the delightful Clementine Jones, a wig and makeup artist within the West End theatre world. I also used a neckless made from reclaimed silver courtesy of the lovely Aileen Hamilton https://www.aileenhamilton.co.uk/. The team live and the shoot took place within a five-mile radius to minimise our eco-footprint.
photographer - Kiera Sharp @kierasharp.photography Stylist - Anna Sweasey @annaswease.y Hair and Makeup - Art Pepillo @artthesecond Model - Megan D @fortemodelmanagement
Photography by Kam Murali @dk_pixels_uk
HOUSE OF TAMMAM LONDON RUNWAY
Photography by Ari Gurdon @ari55
AT FASHIONS FINEST Photography by Eulana Alicia Kropacek @alicias_g
White Twig Moonstone Ring Set Starry Cradles, $299 "One of a kind engagement ring" - that is what comes to mind when you see this ring set. We absolutely believe that your partner will fall in love with this piece, the same way as our women's team falls in love with it. https://starrycradles.com
DON LON WAY RUN ICE CHO
CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE 2022
London Runway Anthology 2022 £12.99 early bird
Grab your copy of our anthology for the year before the price goes up to £15.99! Get it direct from our website at londonrunway.co.uk
Cookie Dough Pouch Kit (VG) Half Baked Cookie Co, £9.99
LON D RUN ON W CHO AY ICE
Make your own absolutely delicious cookies with this dough pouch kit that comes through your letterbox - London Runway team tested and approved! https://www.halfbakedcookieco.store
Mira's War by Rhiannon D'Averc Amazon, £3.97 on Kindle Step into the world of London in 2040 to follow a young punk called Mira as she battles against the government and gets caught up wth a group of rebels, leaving her with no choice but to go on the run across our capital city.
Looking for something to put under the tree? These gifts are sure to put a smile on someone’s face come Christmas morning...
Sherry Glass Tumbler - £48. The Glass Studio at Liberty London "Designed and handblown in the UK, this glass tumbler is entirely distinctive in colour, pattern and form. A vessel equally fitting for water or wine, it’s a true collector’s item and a great gift for seekers of the unique"
Gift Set: Shampoo Bar, Conditioner Bar, Cleansing Bar, Shower Dish - £40, Object Beauty "a gift wrapped set containing three natural bars and three accessories, the perfect plastic free starter pack. Object bars have been formulated by experts to cleanse and rejuvenate your hair and skin"
Bear Woods Playsuit £20, Turtledove at My Little Green Wardrobe "Turtledove's Bear Woods organic cotton black and white baby romper will ensure your little ones are snug as a bug throughout those winter days and nights."
Snow Leopard Woven Throw - £190, Karen Mabon "Known for her imaginative designs, which depict pastel sweet themes with a slightly hallucinatory edge, Karen Mabon brings her artful illustrations to this dusty pink throw. Woven from premium cotton, it depicts three snow leopards surrounded by decorative foliage. "
Timeless Elixir Facial Serum £19, Peace and Pure "Peace & Pure's Timeless Elixir Facial Serum is a premium age-defying serum formulated to nourish, hydrate and smooth all skin types. It is created using a unique blend of high quality, plant-based ingredients. Featuring bakuchiol, the first natural alternative to retinol, this serum reduces the appearance of stress on the skin and stimulates collagen production. "
Christmas Bear 2022 Louie - £35, Harrods
"Extending a legacy that dates back to 1906, when Harrods first started selling teddy bears, the annual Christmas Bear has become a much-coveted collectable for families around the world. For 2022, Louie steps forward to be loved and cherished for a lifetime."
Cuffed Beanie - Tomato Red - £20, By11 10% from every beanie sold will be donated to Chasing The Stigma, a UK based Mental Health Charity.
Reindeer Romper - £24, Kite at My Little Green Wardrobe
"In a rich red organic cotton fabric with a friendly reindeer appliqué, it is perfect as baby's first Christmas outfit. Designed for sleepy time and playtime, this Christmas babygrow offers comfort day and night."
Pure Silk Sleep Set Oyster - £85, Artem Luxe "A delightful pair of an award-winning pure silk pillowcase & matching sleep mask. Nourishes skin, promotes deep sleep, naturally hypoallergenic and boosts the atmosphere of any bedroom. Great to take while traveling too!"
Christmas Love Silk Twill Scarf - £235, Liberty
"This silk twill scarf was hand-painted during the 2020 lockdown for a limited series of scarves – celebrating our unique Tudor store with decorative florals and paisley motifs. Whether looped around your neck or the handles of a tote, a Liberty scarf is a heroine of versatile styling."
Lemon & Dark Chocolate Viennese Whirls - £16.95. Cartwright & Butler Biscuits, but grown up! A much better alternative than gifting a Christmas pudding, as your giftee already has one if they want one.
Yellow Hand Painted Star Sweatshirt £135, Quillattire A chocolate lover will be in absolute heaven at the sight of this hamper!
Festive as Fuck Candle - £25, Holm "This Christmas scent candle is made from 100% Soy wax with cinnamon, vetiver and fig. Hand poured in The UK." Maybe one for those of your friends without little ones.
Marseilles Coasters (Set of 4) - £75, Johnathon Adler "The winking Marseilles coasters by Jonathan Adler are a celebration of 1950s French design rendered in joyful tones of white, black and gold. So charming are the painted faces that you'll find it hard to cover them up when you want to place your drink down."
Introducing Pippa, the womenswear Face of London Runway 2022! Photographer: Rhiannon D'Averc @rhiannondaverc Model: Pippa Winn @pippawinner MUA: Georgia Dyer @georgiadyermuhd
Pippa wears: Curve embellished high neck mini dress with blouson sleeve and self belt - £72, ASOS Design
Pippa wears: Plus sequin bandeau wrap dress in silver sequin - £85, Lavish Alice Plus
Pippa wears: Curve off shoulder fold wrap pleat midi dress in red - £70, ASOS Design
Pippa wears: Curve trapeze blouson sleeve v neck mini dress in textured mesh in pink - £140, ASOS Edition
Pippa wears: Curve Nola pleated plunge wedding dress in sequin - £195, ASOS Edition; Shoes model's own
Pippa wears: Curve off shoulder fold wrap pleat midi dress in red £70, ASOS Design
Pippa wears: Curve Nola pleated plunge wedding dress in sequin - £195, ASOS Edition
A GUIDE TO
FASHION Darker nights, autumn leaves, colder weather, and the possibility of snow on the horizon make it time for a swift wardrobe change. Amrit Virdi details 2022’s Autumn/Winter fashion trends.
Fashion is an evolving artform, and it’s of no surprise to anybody that 2022’s runway shows have brought with them a new, culturally relevant form of style to this year’s autumn and winter fashion. 2022 has been marked with the rise of Y2K fashion, as the likes of Juicy Couture, Vivienne Westwood, and Tammy have once again risen in popularity, particularly among the younger generation.
film The Devil Wears Prada, as plain shirts with knitted vests seem to be making more of an appearance. Paired with a tennis skirt for an everyday look or a fitted skirt for office wear, it is a versatile and easy autumn trend.
This also explains the rise of pinafore dresses. More and more people are opting for a midi look rather than a mini or maxi dress and are wearing these as everyday items rather than just saving them as evening attire. Layering these dresses with a shirt or jumper
Whilst autumn traditionally sees the ringing of neutral colours, the resurgence of this trend has led hot pink to remain a trend into the cooler months, evidenced in Valentino’s magenta spectacle at Paris Fashion Week. Shopping at high street stores also affirmed the continuing relevance of Y2K fashion, as cargos, crop tops, and knitted tops were evidently consistent throughout the shops. The layering of items also resurged as a trend, reminding me of the fashion fuelled
makes them suitable to wear on cooler days, whilst still maintaining a fashionable look. On a similar note, the low-rise trend is still in full force. Whether that be trousers, cargos, or skirts, the 90s fashion influence is set to stay, as evidenced in the Bottega Veneta show. Footwear fashion must not be ruled out as an indicator of trends. As is the case with autumn and winter every year, the classic boot has made a re-emergence once more. 2022 has seen more variety of its style, however, partly thanks to the comeback of nostalgic fashions. 2022 has also, to my surprise, brought with it an increasing number of people buying UGG boots and slippers. UGG has been around for years, and knock offs are available to buy from most high street brands. However, they seem to be in demand now more than ever before, perhaps due to the likes of Bella Hadid being spotted in them. Available with a student discount on ASOS, it’s no wonder it’s almost impossible to get the popular ‘mini’ UGGs. For days spent lounging around the house, UGG slippers could be an option if you want to treat yourself. Though the brand is known for its furry boots, it has also seen an increase in sales of its chunkier, leather boots. A classic Doc Marten boot proves to be sturdy and trusty in the colder months. Available in a variety of styles, colour combinations, and either a matte or leather finish, finding one to suit your specific style is easy. A simple statement that can be dressed up or dressed down, they are a fantastic wardrobe addition. And they also fare
LONDON RUNWAY well in snow or muddy conditions– what is a fashion statement if it isn’t versatile?
variety of prints and colours that are available can make them addictive to buy. Influencer Grace Beverly was recently seen sporting a gilet with detachable sleeves on her Instagram story, which emphasised the growing versatility of the statement piece of outerwear.
Plain black, stompy boots can pull an entire outfit together— a biker look can be achieved through boots with laces, plain black ones can be suitable for the office, and knee-high ones are perfect for going out for drinks… or to achieve an Ariana Grande-like style. These are not exclusively found from top designers and are littered throughout high street brands. Boots of all kinds prove to be versatile and make a nice change from trainers which you may wear every day. Though wearing them in may be an issue, black or brown boots can be styled for day or night, hot or cold, and are certainly a valuable addition to your wardrobe. In terms of accessories, the trend of the ‘little bag’ is also still prevailing and adds to the effortlessly curated, casual Y2K look. Easy to throw on to complete an outfit, their size is also convenient in a day and age where we need to carry less and less around. Cards can be stored on your phone and keys and lipstick hardly take up much storage room. These bags can be found from Gucci, Chanel, and other big names but also from Urban Outfitters, H&M, and Primark. If your autumn/winter wardrobe is more neutral, a printed bag can be an option to add a pop of style, or a plain bag can be a helpful contrast if following Valentino’s advice and wearing mostly bright colours. One of the key differences between a spring/summer wardrobe and an autumn/winter wardrobe is outerwear.
Autumn and winter accessories often remain the same, as it’s the weather for scarves, hats, and gloves.
Bare arms are not a preferred choice in the cooler weather, so taking advantage of 2022 fashion trends, winter warmers will do wonders for your wardrobe (and your health!). Biker and racing style jackets, perhaps due to an international rising interest in motorsport, have increased in popularity and can be found in more affordable stores such as Bershka. These can be dressed up with a leather skirt, boots, and crop top for evening outings, or they can be thrown on in a rush with a pair of mom jeans during the day. These thinner, bomber style jackets are suitable for warmer autumn days, meaning that thicker coats are a good call for winter days. Puffy North Face coats, or equivalents of these from different stores, in plain colours make for a great investment and can be thrown on top of practically any outfit. Additionally, coats of a similar style in a corduroy or fluffy ‘teddy bear’ material can add different textures to an outfit and come in handy if you fancy a jacket switch-up. Similarly, traditional parkas never go out of style, with Zara stocking many variations of the classic coat. Suited for wind and wet weather, a green, navy, or black parka is a versatile investment for when the cold may just be too much to handle. Harking back to the Y2K resurgence, gilets are also making their way back into many high street stores, as a gateway for stylish (and heat preserving) layering. Whether it’s atop a hoodie, a long sleeve top, or a jumper, it can tie an outfit together, and the
New York Fashion Week saw the showcasing of statement scarves, which look almost blanket-like. Long, colourful, and wide scarves for this season have evolved from silk scarves worn in spring and summer this year. Particular brands such as Acne Studios have their scarves in high demand, yet they can also be bought from most high street and online stores. When it comes to hats, there are countless styles and variations, but key ones have made an appearance for 2022’s autumn and winter season. One of these is the beret. The likes of Gucci and Zara have started to stock more berets, and with Paris becoming increasingly popular as a Christmas and New Year holiday destination, it can be useful to have at the back of your wardrobe. They are also available in a variety of styles, with Zara stocking glitter ones– perfect for Christmas drinks. Perhaps more versatile, beanies and bobble hats never fail to suffice for everyday use. They are easy to find in almost any clothes shop, and neutral colours can match most outfits whilst providing much needed warmth in the winter.
LONDON RUNWAY And if those weren’t enough accessories, gloves have seen a revamp in 2022, due to a number of influences. Netflix’s Bridgerton, for instance, showcased the majority of its cast wearing long, ‘opera length’ silk gloves to emulate outfits seen in the Regency era. Silk gloves are set to remain a trend for evening wear, with the likes of Kim Kardashian taking them a step further and donning ones of leather or latex fabric. Short leather driving gloves also made an appearance at autumn and winter runway shows from Yves Saint Laurent — as another option to protect your hands from the cold rather than for driving. With gloves being an option to dress up evening outfits, partywear in 2022 seems to be all the more extravagant. Glitter and sequins are very much in, with Superdry boasting an all-glitter dress display in their shop window. 2022 is set to be one of the first full years without COVID restrictions, so this caters to shoppers who want to go all out with their outfits. Oh Polly’s sequin dresses have come back in full force, with River Island even stocking full sequin suits following a rising trend of these on TikTok.
seen all over Instagram. Influencer Perrie Sian has showcased a lot of these in her outfit reels, and they can be bought from H&M fairly cheaply for those looking for a new wardrobe on a budget. A final timeless trend worthy of mentioning is the classic autumnal check, plaid, and argyle prints. These come around every year and in recent years have been in time and in theme with Taylor Swift’s album releases, with her “All Too Well” 10-minute-long video showcasing the peaks of autumn and winter and featuring many of the trends mentioned above. Back to the topic of prints. Oversized, printed plaid shirts paired with a tshirt, mom or skinny jeans, and boots make for the typical Pinterest-worthy autumn outfit. Plaid or chequered
trousers can also be styled for an everyday outfit or, if worn with a blazer, smart office wear. Argyle sweaters paired with skirts or baggy jeans achieve the trendy Y2K aesthetic and are versatile to be dressed up or down. All of these autumnal prints can also be found on scarves, gloves, and hats to make for fitting seasonal accessories. From jumpers to skirts to all important accessories, autumn and winter calls for endless styling options… as well as the opportunity to channel your inner Taylor Swift. You can read more of Amrit’s work via her portfolio, https://amritvirdi.journoportfolio.com /#/ , or by following her Instagram @thevinylwriter.
Glitter is not the only option, however, as sophisticated single colour looks are very much still a call for winter partywear. Urban Outfitters’s collection of slip dresses are constantly growing, and these can be found in mini, midi, or maxi style. Often a plain slip dress paired with a glitter heel and a red lipstick is seen as a classic look by celebrities and adds a splash of sophistication to your go-to looks. Any printed or plain skirt with a corset top is also a look sticking around from summer. When paired with a trending outerwear for the colder months, it is set to be a suitable outfit for spontaneous evening outings.
Images via Unsplash
A trend which I did not expect to make a big appearance is denim. When walking through a shopping centre, denim seems to make a big appearance in shop windows, not just in the form of jeans. Denim dresses, long and short, as well as dungarees are still available to buy despite the colder weather and, again, hark back to the re-emergence of nostalgic trends from the 2000s. Keeping on the theme of dresses, jumper dresses paired with tights or leggings and chunky boots are being
NEW FACE: ASHLEE Name: Ashlee Ingram Age: 26 Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia Agency: Freelance
How long have you been modelling for? I've been modelling on and off for about 8 years! I was a fashion stylist for photo shoots as well Where are you from originally? I'm an African American creator that has lived in Australia for about 15 years
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I'm double jointed in my shoulders and hips. And my knees and hands hyper-extend. My unusual talent is my acting skills - I've always been able to switch on and switch off characters easily. What would surprise people to know about you? I've been studying design and communications for years. A big goal of mine is helping commercial companies change the resources they use. What are your modelling ambitions? After years in a personal hiatus, I love modelling and being in front of the camera again. I've always enjoyed being on stage and embracing my other persona.
Photographer: MACAMI @macami__ Model: Ashlee Ingram @peachtings
NEW FACE: SOKHIBA Name: Sokhiba Age: 19 Location: Tashkent, Uzbekistan Agency: NN Models
How long have you been modelling for? I have been familiar with the world of modelling since childhood. My mother wanted me to be able to walk and pose beautifully and took me to the courses so I became interested. Where are you from originally? I come from Tashkent, it is the capital of Uzbekistan.
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can speak in a male voice. What would surprise people to know about you? For the first time when I meet people, everyone thinks that I am either Russian or Tatar, they even said that I look like a Korean woman, but no one in my life has ever said that I look like an Uzbek. Everyone is very surprised to learn that I am a purebred Uzbek. What are your modelling ambitions? I want to become a world class-model in the future and work with famous designers.
Photographer: Ozoda Muminova @photoshootinlondon Model: Sokhiba @iamsoooha Makeup Artist: @_ruxshona_mirz
NEW FACE: HANNAH-MAE Name: Hannah-Mae Johnson Age: 20 Location: South East England Agency: Freelance
How long have you been modelling for? I modelled briefly as a child but didn’t keep it up. I recently started freelance modelling in April 2022 and have been fortunate enough to have had a few shoots already! Where are you from originally? I am originally from the UK, I was born and still live in the South-East of England.
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? My most unusual talent would probably be that I can run in heels! What would surprise people to know about you? I was diagnosed with Tourette’s Syndrome roughly 2 years ago. I don’t let it stop me from living my life. I still work, dance, regularly go to the gym (currently working on strength training!), and now model! There’s a lot of negative stigma surrounding Tourette’s, and I hope to prove to people that it’s not all true. I can do just as much as anyone else. What are your modelling ambitions? I would like to start doing more shoots working with a variety of people. I’d also like to one day model in LFW, and my ultimate modelling ambition would be to appear on a billboard!
Photographer: Studio Lowfi @studio_lowfi Model: Hannah-Mae Johnson @hannahmae_j Collars: FlorenceandBunny and MustardMonday
NEW FACE: MAKENA Name: Makena Sopp Age: 17 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Agency: Freelance
How long have you been modelling for? I’m brand new to modeling. Where are you from originally? Anchorage, Alaska.
Model: Makena Sopp @makenajeansopp Photographer: Dale Selves @selvesstudio
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? No. What would surprise people to know about you? I’m working on getting my private pilots license. What are your modelling ambitions? I enjoy modeling and fashion. Right now I’m having fun and learning but I would like to see where it goes.
M LONDON RUNWAY
Images via Pop PR
REGENSBURGER Images via Pop PR
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
YLE T S A
Em Poncia looks at the 60s, a decade in fashion that subverted norms and looked further afield than Europe. Fashion in the 1960s teetered constantly, swinging between wildly different styles and attitudes in the span of a few short years. It was the first time that menswear had seen significant change in maybe a hundred years, the decade of the mini
skirt, and the time that the hippie second-hand aesthetic was born. Inheritance The elegant and feminine styles that we associate with the 50s did not immediately disappear on the 1st of January 1960. Graceful tailoring and matching skirt suits remained popular, especially amongst older women and at the beginning of the decade.
FASHION FROM THE
Jackie Kennedy was often seen sporting suits designed by Givenchy or Balenciaga, both of whose designs remained classic in this period and did not adapt to newer, street styles. Audrey Hepburn’s most famous look, her black dress and pearls from Breakfast at Tiffany’s , also reflects 50s femininity, with its longer hem length and high neckline. Hepburn’s personal style in this decade only followed new trends to a point. At her wedding to Dr. Andrea Dotti in 1969, the pink Givenchy mini dress she wore was more reminiscent of the Mod style from the middle of the decade than the contemporary fascination with Eastern style. Men’s fashion at the start of this decade was much the same as it had been for many decades. No bright colours or patterns had been popular in the 1950s, and the most common colours were grey, brown, and blue. Mods and Sods In the middle of the decade, youth culture saw a massive uptick. Young people in this period had the most disposable income they ever had since the Second World War, and they were using it for selfexpression. Fashion, as such, began to be less about emulating the mature, older woman, and more about young women expressing their playfulness and personality.
Youth became “a la mode”. The style was known as ‘Mod’ (modern) and grew from around 1955 to reach its peak in the middle of the 1960s. As such, the old-fashioned department stores went out of style, replaced by boutiques in hip and happening areas of London like Carnaby Street or Kensington Market. These shops interacted with their customer on a much greater level than the old ateliers had, and as such were much more capable of catering to their immediate fashion wishes. Mary Quant, the iconic 60s designer who first designed the mini skirt, set up her shop Bazaar on the King’s Road. London became the centre of modern, youthful fashion, earning it the nickname “Swinging London.”
favoured bright colours and prints, silhouettes that were easier to move about in, and man-made synthetic materials. Polyester, rayon, PVC, and other non-natural fibres were embraced as the future of clothing
production and utilised to make stylish clothes quickly and cheaply. André Courrèges, one of the designers who embraced the use of cheaper materials to achieve his artistic vision, featured a lot of metallics and bright whites, with futuristic photoshoot concepts where models wore bright coloured wigs. High-fashion in this era saw a trend of space-inspired garments, such as his 1964 Space Age collection. Men’s fashion followed a similar pattern in this period, gaining brighter colours and bolder patterns. The tailoring for men’s suits also changed— ties became wider and new shapes, such as turtlenecks and wide collars, entered the mainstream. Men’s boutiques such as Granny Takes a Trip and Hung On You became famous for serving the modern man’s style needs.
The style that grew out of this newly youth-focused culture was one that
LONDON RUNWAY Counterculture An abrupt and distinct turn in trends occurred at the end of the 60s. Tired of the consumerist aesthetic, there was an increase in popularity for second hand clothes that echoed the art nouveau and old Hollywood aesthetics. Styles from South Asia also came into the Western fashion world. Often attributed to the Vietnam War and student uprisings in France, Pop fashion started to be seen as materialistic and out of touch. Kensington Market became the place to find items from a range of nonWestern cultures, and many high fashion designers also embraced the emerging hippie aesthetic. This new look, in addition to increasing the scope of European fabrics and silhouettes, served to homogenise the rich, various cultures of the East. In particular, Zandra Rhodes’ work brought together the now once again lowered seam length, old Hollywood kaftan, and Eastern styles, as did clothes by designers Foale and Tuffin. Betsey Johnson’s designs also embraced the bohemian free spirit that was to carry over into the 70s. Men’s fashion in this period conversely reverted to the styles of the 30s and 40s. As people began to buy more of their clothing second hand, the looser and wider styles of these bygone decades crept back into streetstyle. However, the end of this decade saw men able to wear their hair long, and jeans and flares became acceptable male clothing. A very significant decade in fashion, the 1960s was a seesaw of styles and fashion ideology. Holding it all together though is the importance of streetwear. Where before designs had trickled down from the top haute couture designers into the mainstream, designers were now taking notes on what people on the ground were wearing. Fashion
became much more democratised, even standardised, as clothing was almost all ready-to-wear and not based out of ateliers’ studios. It was truly a decade that revolutionised not just style aesthetics, but the mindset behind trends.
If you want to read more of Em’s work, you can find it on her twitter @emponcia
Images via Unsplash and Pexels
Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
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LEN AN ANTHO HELEN
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STYLE (CONS CIOUS) GUIDE
SELECTED BY RHIANNON D'AVERC STARRY CRADLES Amethyst Vintage Earrings £348.94
BIG HORN Nagira+S Sunglasses £110.00
KHU KHU Cottinga Hand Fan £55.00
PRIME. LONDON Sleeveless Multilayered Lilac Tulle Dress POA
LITA COUTURE Flawless Grey Bow Blouse £342.00
AGGI Andie Super Back Pants £185.00
STUDIO PIA Soraya Basque £480.00 EACH X EVERY Poise - Black £220.00
STYLE (CONS CIOUS
TIED WITH A BOW
ISTO. Men's Chinos Olive Green £105.00
TWOTHIRDS Birkholm - Clay £157.00
RISE & FALL Unisex Finest Cashmere Scarf £80.00
BILLY TANNERY Large Leather Roll Top Backpack £650.00
STYLE CONS CIOUS)
OLLI HULL 'Boring' Bucket Hat £49.00
MONIKA DIMOVA Aria Silk Dress With Bow £432.00
PLANET LOVING COMPANY Love Me Knot Bag £75.00
KOI The Redemption Pink Stretch Thigh High Boots £80.00
NEW BUSINESS COJJOC
Name of company: COJJOC Type of business: Lifestyle Clothing Brand Location: North East England
Currently, how many people work for the business? Two
How long has the company been running? Even though we have been working behind the scenes for over one year, we have only been live to shop since 6th October 2022. Where did the idea come from? When wearing an old knitwear set, friends and colleagues repeatedly questioned where I got it from, which gave me the idea that not enough brands ranged an everyday lifestyle wear in bright colours. What advice would you give to someone who wants to start a business? Just start - you can sit on an idea for a while but only look back and regret that you did not start sooner.
What are your company values? We strive to look at best practices to protect the environment, developing sustainable product minimising the carbon footprint. Our seamless production is manufactured in Italy and with a manufacturing process that reduces waste. The COJJOC goal is for you to express your personality through lifestyle pieces by including unique and eclectic editions to your everyday wardrobe. Where do you hope the company will be in 5 years time? I hope to break the neutral everyday trend - lifestyle pieces don't have to be boring. I think we can challenge this within the industry and I would love for people to just look at one of our products and know its a COJJOC iconic design. All images via COJJOC.
The INDUS Collection Photography via POP PR
Designers Edric Ong Felix Bendsih Hangeet Singh Hey Ladies by Sam Dada Hijjab Waqar Hussain Jaroche Lussoro Wajahat Mirza
Designers: Abigail Wills Cameron La Joyeria by Lina Joudi Natz Couture Nivini Bashiti Omar Mansoor VZ Perfection by Vaishali Yuniku London Images via Pop PR
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GET THE LOOK: FRAZZLED BRITISH WOMAN Nell Richmond explores the rise of this new TikTok aesthetic and why it might be resonating with so many women today. I don't think any of us can deny that certain women effortlessly look put together. Without wishing to sound too "I'm not like other girls", I will never be that person. Therefore, you can imagine my concern when the 'That Girl' aesthetic began popping up over TikTok. 'That Girl' is someone who works out early in the morning, drinks smoothies, and journals. She applies limited makeup, yet her skin glows from within. She dresses in casual, well-tailored trousers and white tank tops. Then, after scraping her freshly washed hair into a claw clip, she goes to a cafe and does some more journaling. Okay, I really sound like I'm saying I'm not like other girls now. If this is your life, all power to you, you definitely look great. However, as someone who will always look a bit scruffy no matter how hard I try, I am excited to announce that the 'That Girl' era is reaching its end. So what's next? According to trend forecasters, the undone look is back, or the 'frazzled British woman' aesthetic if you're a TikTok fashion girly. If you're confused, cast your mind back to any romantic comedy that came out between 2000-2007. For the likes of Bridget Jones, Amanda and Iris from The Holiday, or any female character in Love Actually - cosy knitwear, eclectic jewellery, and maxi skirts were a must. This look is perfect for the colder seasons: messy hair is okay so there is no need to worry about the wind, everything will look good with a staple winter coat, and, most importantly, there is an emphasis on comfort.
I get it. TikTok aesthetics have become undeniably tiresome, but there is something remarkably enticing about the frazzled British woman look. In many ways, it reflects where we're at as a society. With living costs at an alltime high, aspirational videos with women showing off their off-duty model looks and 'That Girl' routines feel out of touch. The whole aesthetic has a certain smugness and makes many women feel inadequate for not exercising enough or enjoying green juice. The frazzled British woman, therefore, feels incredibly fitting. Despite the inspiration for this look being mainly white and middle-class characters, there is still something that feels relatable for most women. We are living in an age of instability and trying to be 'That Girl' constantly feels like you're fighting a losing battle. The protagonists in these films have problems: with their jobs, their friends, and their love lives - and their wardrobes reflect this. Outfits no longer have to feel sleek and put together but can be busy and maximalist. This is not romanticising dysfunctionality but is about accepting that living a life that is completely healthy and structured is not realistic. A lot of us are struggling to get by, but we are all trying our best - which is why we should have a bit more fun when we get dressed in the morning. If you need any more convincing, this look will also work for your budget this season. The styling is modest enough for work but stylish enough for your weekends and most items can be found in your local charity shop or your (or your mum's) wardrobe from the noughties.
So, here is how to get the look: HAIR AND BEAUTY For this aesthetic, messiness is key. It's time to embrace your natural hair texture - use your usual products but do away with the laborious heated styling. It's becoming far too cold and dark in the mornings to bother with it. Your 'That Girl' claw clips were also a staple of any Richard Curtis leading lady so, when your hair gets greasy or frizzy, throw it up before walking to work. (Extra points if you listen to Respect by Aretha Franklin while doing so.) I am a strong advocate for doing your makeup how you please, but if you truly want to embody your inner frazzled British woman, try to stick with natural shades. If you’re feeling really brave, do away from makeup altogether. Texture, acne and dryness are completely normal! What’s more, the cold weather will add brightness to your skin, as long as you keep it moisturised and if you still feel a bit bare – try a clear mascara to tame your eyebrows and lengthen your eyelashes. This is not to say that you can’t take the time to look after yourself, we all deserve that, but embracing your skin and hair when it’s looking a bit dishevelled is also important. FASHION The most authentic way to give this look a try is to head to your local charity shop, but, if you want to buy new, I’ve trawled the internet for items you can use for reference. This aesthetic is all about enjoying a bit of frump, but to avoid looking like a before on What Not to Wear, a fitted shirt is a must. This Paloma Wool piece
LONDON RUNWAY is a perfect starting point. The skinny striped print is undeniably noughties, but it is modernised with the double zip design. It's perfect for work, but the zips can be left open if you feel like heading out. To keep warm, opt for brightly coloured knitwear for layering - for extra points, go for something like this zany House of Sunny number. The 'That Girl' aesthetic is depressingly minimalistic so this is your chance to enjoy patterns and colour again. Another winner is this Gimaguas knit jumper with a cosy yet sexy off-the-shoulder design. For bottoms, maxi skirts or flared trousers are your friends. If you've opted for a bright knit, try a black or grey maxi. For a more casual look, cargo style or denim skirts also work wonderfully. Sustainable options can be found anywhere on Depop or Vinted but look to this Ragged Priest number for inspiration. As for trousers, bootcut suit styles are decidedly noughties and are guaranteed to be found lurking in any second-hand shop - they'll be better fitting (and better quality) than anything you might buy new. The coat is possibly the most important element of this look. Afghan coats are still having their moment, with the fluffy trims adding a fun, busy feel to any outfit. These are best bought vintage, but if you are struggling to source one - Superdry has certainly pulled through with this stylish piece that looks undeniably cosy. Fitted jackets also work well as they balance out baggy, relaxed skirts or trousers. SHOES For this seasonal look, casual comfortable shoes are the best way to go. For work, if it's appropriate, go for a
square-toed chunky boot which will look cute peeping under longer trousers or skirts. If you really want to feel fashion-forward, ballet flats are having their moment once again. These Vagabond flats are undeniably Bridget and won't pinch your feet as long as they are paired with cosy socks or tights. ACCESSORIES This is where you can really start to have fun with this aesthetic. Demand for dainty jewellery is waning and it's time to embody your favourite kooky art teacher with chunky necklaces, bangles and statement earrings. Skinny scarves, although completely impractical, are having a massive comeback. You can definitely picture Iris from The Holiday wrapping up in something like this Acne Studios number. Tie up the whole look with a knitted hat that brings out colours for the outfit and you're on the right track. Understandably, this look isn't for everyone. But there is something comforting about the rise of the undone look. Trends are nearly always a reflection of what's going on in the world and it should relieve us all that runways are celebrating messiness and a more casual approach to fashion. If you don't want to outwardly embody a frazzled British woman, the takeaways from these films are something we can all use in this time of uncertainty. I live in a flat with a severe damp problem (the only one I could find) and work in a bar in the evenings but the revival of this look has allowed me to accept that struggling is okay. It is not something to hide away from the world. To see more of what Nell has written, visit @nelllanne on Instagram.
Photography by Fil Mazzarino @filmazzarino
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Photography: Mrityunjoy Mitra @the_mj_studio
Bridal Makeup Hairstyle, Styling: Ummi Chowdhury @ummichowdhurymuaofficial Wardrobe: Motifz London @motifz_london Jewellery: Kundan Bride @kundanbride Model: @peregrine_way Studio: Make It London @makeitlondon @ummichowdhurymua
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Photographer: Aleksandra Nikolic @sashka.photo Model: Dunja Nikolija Popov @__qquince__ Mask, claws, styling by photographer Aleksandra Nikolic
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KID CUDI: FASHION’S UNDERSTATED STAR This week, Kwabena Gyane examines the fashion choices of rapper, singer, songwriter, and actor Kid Cudi throughout his captivating career. was given the spotlight, his fashion choices already went against those established by his peers and predecessors in the musical genre he inhabited. Appearing in Complex’s Fifth Annual Style and Design Issue August 2009 cover sporting a striped top in blackand-white, and a leather jacket, it was obvious there was interest in his style especially so early in his career. In the same year, Japanese clothing company BAPE in collaboration with Cudi released T-shirts with his likeness printed on them. He would later wear this piece to his first MTV VMAs; this would be the first of many collaborations with the company.
Image via Wikimedia Commons Authenticity is at the core of Scott Mescudi, professionally known by the alias Kid Cudi. With lyrics that allow him to bare his vulnerabilities, from his alcohol problems to his depression, to his listeners, it is no surprise that his bona fide nature bleeds into his fashion choices. Whether it be the red fleece crop top he wore during his 2014 Coachella set which drew several superfluous opinions or the lace wedding dress to the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) 2021 Awards, Cudi’s style follows no mainstream trend, rather it always marches to the beat of his drum.
BAPE was not the only brand that had been enthralled by Cudi’s fashion. Leather jackets, being a staple of his style caught the eye of the Parisian luxury fashion label, Surface to Air, and in 2011, a capsule collection was released. Two pieces (the Fire Jacket V1 and the Champs Jacket V2) were featured in his ‘Mr. Rager’ music video which Jérémie Rozan, the label’s founder, directed. Cudi’s choice of clothing always finds a way to aggravate people. At a 2010 New Year’s Eve party, he was seen wearing a cap, sunglasses, a black T-shirt and the object of people’s ire, an olive kilt to which Hello Beautiful indicated that, “men in skirts just don’t quite do it for us.”
These fashion risks during his climb to fame while operating in a genre that was extremely cruel to those who went against the masculine aesthetic highlights Cudi’s unyielding nature, and with how far society has come in terms of fashion expression, he had been right to stand his ground. Men in crop tops are not a new phenomenon; even back in 2014. However, some people were once again up in arms when Cudi showed up for his Coachella set in cut-off denim shorts and a red crop top. This look, simplistic in nature, still had social media talking and this time with criticisms, and praise tagged along, a clear indication of the direction we were moving, especially when it came to the fashion of black male hip-hop artists. How many artists can say that Italian fashion designer Giuseppe Zanotti designed shoes inspired by their style? Well, Kid Cudi can. In 2014 he announced this, with the shoes having a minimalist style paired with oversized straps set to debut in Zanotti’s 2015 Spring/Summer Collection. Like Cudi’s style, these shoes were both understated and loud, two opposites coming together to create something compelling. Cudi plays with his streetwear-indie aesthetic, incorporating different styles that do not clash with one another or try to take centre stage, rather working harmoniously to bring forth each style’s strengths.
Discussing Cudi’s fashion requires an examination of his entire career up to this point, the choices in habiliments in terms of his onstage performances and his personal life. Fashion evolves, it has no option but to and personal styles are no different, and in terms of Cudi, I am diving into how his sense of style has changed throughout the years since his rise to prominence. In the early years, Cudi’s fashion sense could be succinctly described as streetwear with a pinch of punk fashion-inspired aesthetic. Rocking leather jackets, graphic tees, and ripped jeans, from the moment he
Image via Kid Cudi x Levis
This can be the dash of smart wear at the Dior Homme Menswear Spring/Summer 2019 runway show in 2018, wearing a vintage graphic T-shirt and Off-White x Converse Chuck Taylors while in a tailored suit. Or his inclusion of a pop of psychedelic fashion with his vivid tie-dye shorts along with his crewneck sweatshirt from his Kids See Ghost merch line, a fine pair due to the album’s psychedelic artwork. 2019 saw Cudi finally dip his toes into designing, collaborating with A.P.C., a French prêt-à-porter brand to release INTERACTION #1. A range that pulled from his fashion style, from paintsplattered denim overalls with Dream On embroidered on them to his staple, a leather jacket.
This range showcased not only his eye for fashion but his ability to rework pieces to align with his style. Another shoe collaboration presented itself that year, with Cudi partnering with Adidas. The following year saw the VADAWAM 326 released, with its suede overlays and the three midfoot straps. The number 326 is a reference to his daughter’s birthday, again we see how his private life leaks into his professional one. During SNL in 2021, Cudi decided to pay homage to the Nirvana vocalist and guitarist Kurt Cobain, first sporting a green cardigan reminiscent of the sweat worn by the artist during an MTV Unplugged performance. He later wore a custom Off-White spaghetti-strapped
dress with a similar floral design to the one worn by Cobain on the 1993 cover of The Face. Modelling his stylistic choice after one of his inspirations who just like him challenged the norms of male fashion and just like him suffered from mental health issues, was met with complaints and as always Cudi stood by his choices. That would not be the end of Cudi’s Cobain homages; at New York Fashion Week 2021, his hair was dyed ocean blue, and he wore a Nirvana sweatshirt with a long black skirt. Again, Cudi’s fashion experimentations were accompanied by questions about his sexuality, because heavens forbid a man, a black man to be specific, explores the different facets of fashion.
LONDON RUNWAY If you thought Cudi was done delving into styles that subverted gender norms, think again. The Met Gala also saw him grace us with his street-style emo look that incorporated not only his neongreen hair and bold black eye makeup but also a clear vinyl skirt. The CFDA Awards would later see him in an ensemble designed by Eli Russell Linnetz, wearing a catsuit with a tealength skirt, a blazer and of course a veil. BAPE would collaborate with Cudi in 2021, releasing their largest artist collaboration yet, with 20 pieces from graphic hoodies to cardigans to leather varsity jackets. The relationship he fostered with the brand consistently proves to be profitable. Members of the RAGE, a street-fashion clothing line Cudi launched, had its first piece released earlier this year, a T-shirt made in collaboration with Japanese fashion designer Nigo. Cudi has come a long way, from several collaborations that replicated his style for his audience to now having a line he could truly call his own.
Think Cudi’s fashion style only operates in the physical world? Think again, with Entergalatic, an animated film which also acts as a visual for his album which goes by the same name. In the film, Cudi’s character, Jabari, modelled after the musician, embodies Cudi’s style, from his red CLOSURE hoodie to the denim jacket with emojis on the sleeves. The characters change attire throughout the film, to give it a sense of realism and time changes. The experimentations, the evolutions and the extravagances of Cudi’s fashion are unique as an outsider looking in, with his discography being an inspiration to so many; his fashion sense is also no stranger to this. Kid Cudi is fashion’s understated star. His ability to effortlessly merge styles in ways most people do not think about is engrossing. How one manages to be so audacious in his choices, whether as simple as teddy bear slippers or intricate as a lace ensemble, finds a way to draw one in, and with Cudi and his authentic style, you can be sure you will always get a front row seat.
You can read more of Kwabena's work at clippings.me/users/kwabenagyane , whereifoundmyeyes.com/ and @whereifoundmyeyes on Instagram.
Q A LONDON RUNWAY
THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
WHAT DO YOU WISH SOMEONE WOULD BUY YOU?
"Every year I tell everyone I want a pony. Every year since I was about 5. Do I have a pony yet? No. I wish someone would buy me a pony"
"Wouldn’t say no to a new car"
- Rhiannon D'Averc, Chief Editor
- Amber Johnson, Business owner
"A trip to Paris near Christmas!"
"HOUSE IN NEW ORLEANS"
- Charley Cover, Client Support associate/ bar maid
"A HOUSE WOULD BE PRETTY DECADENT RIGHT NOT NGL"
- Sam Dewey, Operations Manager
- Jess Johnson, Art director
"London Runway Magazine"
"A trip to visit Zambia!"
- George Brown, Trainee Financial Advisor
- Sam Bird, Visual Merchandiser
"I think I would wish that someone bought me an experience or a sports game to do / go to together basically making memories!" - Rachel Savage, Masters graduate
"a house or a massage" - Amalia Strand, model
"Lumi alarm clock" - Izzy Dry, Account Manager
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BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT AADNEVIK BY FIL MAZZARINO