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CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - Staff Photographers: Ian Clark and Fil Mazzarino - Features Editor: Rachel Parker - News Editor: Madeleine Coffey - Music Editor: Neil Dowd - Staff Writer - Joanna Cunningham Graphic Design: Alex Panek, Melina Hadjiargyrou - Advertising enquiries - Submissions - Contributors: Marie Fourmeaux, Michael Atkinson, Dyelog PR Special thanks to Oriana Curls, Maxine Griffiths, MC Overalls

Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Arts Editor Staff Writers Send your CV and covering letter to or apply via

Š 2019, London Runway Ltd and contributors Print issue distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.


EDITOR'S LETTER Empowerment is our buzzword for this issue, following hot on the heels of a successful day of workshops at the latest Handle Your Heels event. Led by Maxine Griffiths, it was an extravaganza of good vibes and positive thoughts for women, pushing us all to do better and go further. More on that later, but let's talk about following your dreams. It's the kind of phrase that we throw around carelessly, but really, it does mean something. After talking at the event, and explaining my own personal journey to founding London Runway - as well as the successes we've had along the way - more than one woman approached me to talk about how they had been put off from doing something they really wanted to. Whether it's self-doubt or the negative words of others, it's easy to get sidetracked from doing the kind of things that would really make you happy. Often it's a lack of belief that

you can really do it. For those of us who are already making it happen, imposter syndrome is real - the feeling that you aren't quite good enough or qualified enough compared to your peers. If you feel that way, you're not alone. Far from it. Actually, the more we as a society start to open up about these issues, the more it becomes clear that we all go through that self-doubt - even if only for a little while. I'm here to remind you to ignore the voices that tell you that you can't do something - whether they are inside your own head or coming out of someone else's mouth. If there's something that you really, really want to do, then you owe it to yourself to try. Who knows - maybe at next year's event, we'll meet you there, with your inspiring story of making it despite all the doubt.

This issue we've got some galleries from exceptional designers to share with you, from the OTT hair at Ashish through to menswear from Per Gotteson. We also have interviews with the owner of MC Overalls and with Oriana Curls, a singer who is already making waves. Read on for our thoughts on the clothes selling app Vinted, a review of all the beauty trends we witnessed during LFW, how to get rid of your old makeup packaging in the most responsible way, and a look back at the style of a classic film. We'd better tell you also that we're now available in Wood Green Works with The Model Workshops/Frame Perfect. If you want to pick up a copy in person rather than ordering through our website, now you know! Enjoy -

But enough from me - let's talk about fashion.








Per Gotteson


Fashion News


Paul Costelloe


Handle Your Heels


Pauline Wong


Her Face May Be Funny, But Her Style's Definitely Pretty



18 #LondonRunwayStyle


Ashish (cover look)

23 Interview: Oriana Curls


New Faces

31 Ten Instagram Accounts to Inspire Your SS19 Wardrobe


LFW Beauty Report: Hair Everywhere


Ditch Your Disposables


Interview: MC Overalls


Your Style Horoscopes


Bethany Williams


Rocky Starr


Style (Conscious) Guide


Eudon Choi




Neighbourhood Voices: Stepney






Roberta Einer


Fashions Finest


Najawa Alfadhli


Vinted: The Future of Fashion?


The Big Question



ASOS TAKES ON MODERN SLAVERY The forum took place on the same day that ASOS released its annual Modern Slavery Statement, which forms part of its broader Ethical Trade Strategy. Over the past year, ASOS has delivered initiatives that both expose and aim to combat the range of ethical hurdles that the fashion industry faces - often ones of its own making.

via ASOS



Such initiatives include Modern Slavery workshops for third party brands which ASOS co-delivered in collaboration with Anti-Slavery International, as well as the launch of an online training resource for third party brands, produced in conjunction with the London College of Fashion, to help them meet modern slavery legislation requirements. In the high-street arena, ASOS is leading the way. Though it may have a way to go in becoming a perfectly conscious and sustainable platform, the online retailer illustrates how leading brands can utilise their status to alter the industry's social impact.


ASOS has returned to the House of Lords to co-host a Modern Slavery forum with Baroness Lola Young, Co-Chair of the All Party Parliamentary Group on Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion. The forum has called for brands to implement 'meaningful' practices to prevent human rights abuses in their supply chains and support victims of past offences. A year since the 2018 inaugural session, which addressed the shared risks in the apparel sector, the event reviewed progress made and sought pledges from other leading brands to join the efforts in tackling modern slavery. Attendees and speakers included executives from ASOS third party brands, such as Boohoo, Dr Martens, River Island, and industry colleagues including M&S.   ASOS CEO Nick Beighton said, “With a growing legislative focus on modern slavery, there’s never been a better time to act together to drive systemic change in the industry. That’s why we’re calling on those present to join us in signing our pledge to tackle modern slavery and move beyond commitment to more concrete action and collaboration.”




via LVMH

Luxury goods company LVMH have announced the eight finalists for its LVMH Prize for Young Designers for 2019 in Paris. The brand has been holding this annual competition for six years to celebrate and bring recognition to young designers in the luxury sphere. This year LVMH received a record 1,700 applications.

Despite offering diversity, there is one unifying factor among the finalists, and that is sustainability. “Most of [the finalists] have integrated upcycling in their sourcing strategy," Arnault explains. "First and foremost, we appraise the creativity of the candidates. Naturally, if it is combined with an ethical and environmental awareness at the service of creation, then so much the better.”


“Each new edition brings its lot of firsts,” said Delphine Arnault, the executive vice president of Louis Vuitton and the founder of the Prize. “It goes to show the reach of the Prize on the one hand, and on the other, the reach of fashion, its ability to touch more and more people, thanks in part to the Internet. It is truly a unifying dynamic.”

The eight young designers are the most diverse group of finalists the competition has ever seen, including young talents representing Israel, Nigeria, and South Africa.


The winner of the LVMH Prize will be announced in June, after the selected jury meets with the finalists at The Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris. It will be the first panel that Karl Lagerfeld, who died last month, will not be part of. New to the judging committee is Kris Van Assche. Arnault commended the choice, "I am certain that his tremendous experience in menswear will contribute something novel to our jury.”


LUXURY FASHION TAKES THE LEAD IN ECOFASHION (AGAIN!) Ferretti approached Firth in 2018 for the conscious capsule. “The urgency of the ecological problems all over the world compelled me to find a green path for my company…I know the importance of safeguarding our natural resources and promoting the use of products that have the smallest environmental impact.”


Ferretti highlights the responsibility of the fashion industry, hoping to prove that it is possible to create luxurious products without compromising our ideals. “Fashion is a great way to send a message. Everything we can do, every initiative, every signal, even the smallest thing, is important.” This collection is another example of how the luxury sector is grappling with its eco-responsibility. If the luxury market is willing to evolve, will the high-street follow suit?


The Love Me collection launches exclusively on 15th April.


Livia Firth and Alberta Ferretti have teamed up to tackle fast fashion and its "false appropriation" of sustainable ideals, collaborating to create a new sustainable collection which is set to launch ahead of Earth Day on April 22nd. Eco Age creative director and Green Carpet Challenge founder Livia Firth has been championing the need for sustainability in the fashion industry for over a decade. While there have clearly been improvements, Firth questions their authenticity and longevity particularly in an age of 1-click purchasing.   "Fast fashion has appropriated those terms with all their conscious collections and sustainable drives…if you look up sustainability in the dictionary, it's about something that lasts. When you buy fashion on impulse, it's not sustainable."   Including organic tees, jumpers made from recycled cashmere, strictly Oeko-Tex-certified thread, and compostable packaging, Firth hopes that her and Ferretti's collection 'Love Me' is something to last. "Everything was sourced carefully,” says Firth. “Alberta studied all aspects of the supply chain.”

Via Alberta Ferretti


PER GOTTESON Photography by Fil Mazzarino


A slice of menswear on the wild side - this collection was beset with animal print and rough denim cuts. Androgynous styling crept in across the board, from trailing skirts to fluffy muffs (the hand warmers - no misogyny in sight).


PAUL COST ELLOE Military doesn't even begin to describe it. Paul Costelloe's collection was arranged in pleasing battalions that flowed through style and theme, from the very shiny black leather to tweed to florals, via a number of repeated shapes. Most notably, the military jacket stood out again and again.

Photography by Ian Clark








These gorgeous new designs from the latest Lifestyle With Friends collection have us all in a twist! The contemporary 18K gold plated necklace with bespoke pendant below is priced at £630. With the shape reminiscent of a heart it's a perfect gift for a loved one. The main image is a silver necklace with bespoke pendant and baroque pearl, at a price of £790, sure to turn heads wherever it is worn. Finally, the stunning rose quartz horse pendant with chameleon necklace is perfect for Ascot. At £1250, it's a great bet.

Shop these designs and others at



HANDLE YOUR HEELS London Runway was present at the latest Handle Your Heels event, run by The Model Workshops London and led by Maxine Griffiths. Here's what happened on the day. A group of women gather, some chatting quietly, others waiting in silence. We're all here to take part in an event which has been set up exclusively for women, in tribute to International Women's Day. 'Walk like a woman, feel like a boss' is the tagline we were enticed with, and we soon kick off with a quick round of bingo designed to get us talking. We learn about each other quickly, and soon start to feel like a more closely-knit group. Our first exercise of the day involves targeted personal advice on how to walk better in heels. It's not just about saving your feet and learning to beat the pain - it's about confidence. "I noticed that when I walk into a room, I have my head down," one of the attendees admits. There are murmurs of sympathy and agreement around the group. As Maxine informs us, we learn collectively to hold our heads high. Over the course of the day, we hear about massage techniques designed to improve your health from Yaah Fumanti; we watch Krishna Makeovers demonstrate a bright pink look, giving advice on makeup brushes and techniques along the way; Anna McKay tells us about an invention which could help everyone to sleep better; and Aura tells us about all of the ingredients required to live a healthy lifestyle - and the ones that we should be avoiding.

We gathered once more to walk again in the afternoon, forming our own catwalk and walking with confidence and pride. The transformation in everyone was clear - the atmosphere of the day was helping us to embrace our bodies and our heels. Then it was time for our own Chief Editor to take the floor, talking about the journey of launching London Runway and the fact that many women allow themselves to be held back from pursuing their dreams - whether from self-doubt or from the doubting words of others. We were finally treated to some live entertainment, including dancing by Project Seven, a cappella performances by Corene Campbell and Voices with Soul, and even a spoken word performance. Throughout the day, we also browsed a number of stalls, not least of which was our very own magazine stand. We nibbled on cupcakes from Truly Cupcakes, couldn't stop Instagramming the punch sold by Posh Nosh, and admired plenty more brands from artist Angela Manderson to event planners. Before we were even out of the door, we were all calling for a repeat event next year. There's something so very empowering about coming together as women to focus on the ways in which we can improve our minds, bodies, relationships, and lives. We can't wait for 2020 - in fact, we might just have to lobby for a sooner date!


Photography by Ian Clark





izzue Izzue took us back to our teenage goth years with this collection, involving an awful lot of black, red, and stripes. Utility styling met the androgyny of deliberately ripped knitwear layered over sheer socks. Clothing extended upwards to cover the face, taking the hoodie to another dimension. Khaki, orange, and deep black stand out on a palette of beige and cream. Photography by Fil Mazzarino











Giant hair was the order of the day at Ashish, for menswear as well as womenswear. The huge wigs towered in the air, above shimmering confections dripping with detail. Patchwork quilts come to mind when looking at the main motif of the collection, but there was nothing Granny-like about the looks as a whole. Loose tailoring mixed with cutesy dresses and striped knitwear gave a kooky feel that was nowhere close to boring.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino










HER FACE MAY BE FUNNY, BUT HER STYLE’S DEFINITELY PRETTY Marie Fourmeaux analyses the costumes of Funny Face, which saw the beginning of the stylish collaboration between Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy. An outstanding runway show displaying Monsieur de Givenchy’s extraordinary genius and fashionforward vision, it is a lesson of timeless elegance but also a strong stance about the role of fashion. “I think my face is funny.” This is how Jo Stockton, played by Audrey Hepburn, describes herself. And, in real life, a funny face the famous actress thought she had indeed. She thought she had a weird body as well, due to the starvation she endured during World War II. If Audrey Hepburn may have doubted the aesthetics of her looks, however, there is something she actually nailed: her sense of style. Having spotted the exceptional qualities of the young designer Hubert de Givenchy, who had opened his house in 1952, she expressly requested that he create her wardrobe for Funny Face after a failed attempt at doing so for her previous film, Sabrina. As he couldn’t make the deadline, she had to content herself with picking only three outfits from his past collection. But with Funny Face, their actual collaboration began and the result is fashion history. Even though the movie was made in 1956, that is to say 63 years ago, one cannot help but be struck by the absolute modernity of the outfits. These clothes could well have emerged from last season’s catwalks. They could easily be worn today without looking like you’ve travelled from the past or have a passion for recycling your greatgrand mother’s wardrobe.   Look at the armada of Ms. Prescott’s (editor of ‘Quality Magazine’) secretaries. They’re all wearing pencil and pleated midi skirts! Does

it feel like you’ve seen something similar recently? Ditch the hats and you’re ready to go to work! Look at Audrey Hepburn as a tourist wandering the streets and cafés of Paris, donning a pair of black straight tailored trousers, a black turtle neck, loafers and a beige hooded trench coat, or turning up at the fashion studio, wearing again a pair of black trousers with a white cotton shirt. Aren’t those looks the most “basic” styles: effortlessly chic, claimed by women around the world and spread over time on the pages of fashion magazines? “Clothes for the woman who isn’t interested in clothes.” That is Ms Prescott’s topic for the next main feature of Quality Magazine. And, as it is, the 1950s saw the beginning of women’s emancipation, requiring therefore more comfortable and practical clothing. Monsieur de Givenchy mastered this evolution without sacrificing style, femininity or aesthetics. He surfed on a wave, managing to create a collection that stood the test of time, to which every woman in the 21st century can relate and would dream to wear. His innovative vision lies in the use

All images from Funny Face

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of exceptional and fitted tailoring as well as minimal, classic, clean and practical designs that take into consideration every aspect of a woman’s life: daily activities, evening occasions, and even her wedding. Everything about Audrey’s (or, rather, Jo’s) looks has to do with comfort and practicality, from the midi length dresses to the use of separates. The first outfit Jo is wearing at the atelier of the French couturier, Paul Duval, is simple, clean-cut and is

LONDON RUNWAY made of separates: a sharplooking evening gown with a crop-top creating a train. Why would an evening gown necessarily need to be bulky, heavy and make you feel like you’re drowning in bows and sashes, when it can be comfortable, easy to move around in, and yet remain very flattering? Such is the concern for a practical style in the film that even the wedding dress is short-length, which was not exactly the mainstream aesthetic of the time. And it is easy to imagine, without it feeling anachronistic, Audrey Hepburn sporting one of the most oh-so trendy pieces of the moment: the boiler suit! The fashion choices of Funny Face are both central characters and the witnesses of a turning point in fashion history. Indeed, the design and aesthetic of apparel had evolved drastically since the 1900s. As if embarking on a sort of ‘purification’, fashion discarded, over the years, any irrelevant, overbearing or overwhelming structures, volumes, tricks or details. In Funny Face, Hubert de Givenchy is unveiling before our very eyes the core and very essence of apparel. He is teaching us the main characteristic of timeless style and elegance: simplicity. This is the key to modernity and versatility. And as far as timeless style goes, his designs would do very well with a

touch of the eccentricity, accessories and specifics of 2019 fashion. How about zebra-printed platform sandals with the dreamy long red bustier chiffon dress Audrey is proudly showcasing on the steps of the Louvre, in front of the Winged Victory of Samothrace? How about gold trainers with the cream croptop and tailor pants ensemble she wears on the little péniche? How about a denim jacket, snakeskin chunk-heeled low boots or neon court shoes to parade in the Tuileries with this lovely little black dress? Even the ballerina style dress (or skirt), a typical design of the 1950s, managed its way through time to become a permanent fixture of a woman’s wardrobe (albeit with much less petticoats), especially in


recent years. Think, for example, of the designs by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior for the Spring/Summer 2019 collection. Simplicity is also the means to reveal and magnify women’s beauty and silhouettes. That is also the stance Funny Face takes as to what the purpose of fashion is meant to be: complementing women’s beauty, power and seduction. This viewpoint is made clear by the French couturier in the movie, Paul Duval. Right after the first dress of his collection has been put on Audrey Hepburn/Jo Stockton, he says to the Quality Magazine team (do not forget to turn on French accent mode when reading this): “My friends, you saw enter here a waif, a gamine, a lowly caterpillar.

LONDON RUNWAY We open the cocoon, but it is not a caterpillar that emerges. (…) No. It’s a bird of paradise.” And this is exactly what this story is about: we see a poorly dressed bookstore employee, passionate about philosophy and abstract concepts of the mind, becoming a beautiful woman, confident in her looks and in who she is. As such, this movie demonstrates that women do not need to choose between being either pretty or brainy. The scene in the bookshop, when Dick Avery (Fred Astaire) photographs Quality Magazine’s somewhat dim model Marion, clothed in an exquisite figure-hugging dress, next to philosophy-passionate yet shabby looking Jo Stockton, holding her books, is very revealing. On one side, the impersonation of brains without femininity or seduction. On the other side, the impersonation of seduction and femininity but definitely not brains. It feels like these two characters have aspects that complement each other, waiting to be reunited. “Keep in mind that you’re a woman who thinks,” says a desperate Dick Avery to Marion. In the same way, the role of the designer is to perceive and understand who women are and what they want, even if they don’t know it themselves. The eyes of Dick Avery are, in fact, those of a designer spotting a beauty and

making sure she blossoms. Inner beauty alone can’t make a woman, yet fashion can’t entirely make one either. The aim of fashion is to “adjust” to her and to who she is, to reveal her to the world, and to magnify her personality, and that’s what we call style. To our benefit, the sparkling collaboration between Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy lasted four decades, both on and offscreen (Breakfast at Tiffany’s was to follow in 1961), until her untimely death in 1993. Theirs is a lecture on intemporal style and timeless elegance. However, in Funny Face, Givenchy’s talent showcases the epitome, or, dare we say, the maturity, of fashion in terms of

aesthetic design, and one may wonder if fashion design has ever known such thing as a revolution since 1956. Indeed, lines and cuts from previous eras are being revisited. Volumes vary, so do the width of shoulder pads, the length of skirts and dresses or the rise of trousers. Fashion season after fashion season, we see details from past fashion styles resurfacing: beads and fringes from the 20s, prints from the 60s and the 70s and so on. What is left to our time has probably more to do with the use of new techniques in the actual conception of clothes and craftsmanship in their making, and discovering, creating or working with new or unusual fabrics (neoprene, vinyl, plexiglass or plastic, to mention a few). At the time, Hubert de Givenchy’s role may have been overshadowed by the costume designer who received the Oscar for Funny Face, but he got his revenge, as Audrey Hepburn’s iconic sense of style is forever associated with him. He loved women and it showed. He spent his life praising their beauty, preserving, as Ms. Prescott would say, their “blood, brain and pizzazz”.

See more from Marie Fourmeaux at tips_and_style



NEW FACE Name: Kiara Veira Age: 19 Location: I’m from London but I live in Maidenhead. Agency: Freelance, but I am looking for an agency How long have you been modelling for? Just under a year. I started with a model search and won a competition and since then I’ve been trying to push myself into it more. Where are you from originally? My mum is Zimbabwean and my dad is half Portuguese and half Vincennes.

Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc


Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I can open bottles with my teeth. What would surprise people to know about you? I do what I want and sometimes what I can do surprises people. What are your modelling ambitions? Well being a shorter model, I want to prove that you can not fit in the ‘box’ for modelling and still achieve what you want to achieve.


NEW FACE Name: Chish Kabole Age: 23 Location: Brighton Agency: Frame Perfect How long have you been modelling for? About a year. I cut my hair last year and I thought I might as well do something that scares me. Where are you from originally? Zambia.

Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc


Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? My thumb is really bendy. What would surprise people to know about you? I studied neuroscience! What are your modelling ambitions? I want to be on a TV advert.


NEW FACE Name: Daniel Johnson Age: 32 Location: London Agency: Freelance at the moment.

Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Maybe confuse people with a few tongue twisters.

How long have you been modelling for? Something new for me. This is my second shoot.

What would surprise people to know about you? I’d say doing modelling.

Where are you from originally? I came from London and I'm still in London.

Photography by Rhiannon D'Averc


What are your modelling ambitions? I would say to start with commercial and fashion. Anything else is an additional bonus


NEW FACE Name: Harry Bennett Age: 17 Location: Surrey Agency: TMA How long have you been modelling for? Only a few months, but I’ve been practising for a few years and I’ve been working on my Instagram account. I’ve always like having my photo taken! Where are you from originally? Tottenham.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino


Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? No, but I am the party… What would surprise people to know about you? I am a very quiet person, but once you get to know me, I am surprisingly loud and energetic. What are your modelling ambitions? I want to build a very strong portfolio and really push myself out there.

#LONDONRUNWAYSTYLE Our eyes on your socials

13 Reasons Why style

We're living for this powerful pose!

This fier y pale tte


Oriana Curls is a French singer-songwriter based in London, with a style that spans jazz, French chanson and cabaret. Neil Dowd caught up with her to discuss musical development, feeling out of place and her first foray into the world of reality TV. Tell us more about your background in music - how did you first get into music and how have you developed as an artist through the years? I’ve known that I had an ability for singing, acting, dancing and drawing from a really early age, and I was lucky to start studying classical music at the age of 10 – I play the violin and the piano. I then got interested in other musical genres like pop, soul or electro, so I studied jazz and contemporary music.   As a fellow singer, I was very impressed when I discovered that your vocal range covers an astounding four octaves. What would you say are the factors that helped you achieve this and what advice would you give singers looking to expand their ranges?   I think exploring many different types of vocal techniques with lots of different teachers has helped me to understand how my body works. I think talent has no limits, but we have to know what we’re doing and ‘feel it’. Who are some of the artists that inspire you? Are there any particular musical genres that have heavily inspired you and your development as an artist?   I think some artists like Amy Winehouse, Lana Del Rey or Lady Gaga have really inspired me in the past decade. If I go back to deeper roots I would always refer to classical music. I used to love Mozart as a child. I’m also a big fan of movies and their soundtracks. Amelie, The Piano and Charlie Chaplin are some examples of this. I’ve been lucky to write tracks for independent short films and I think it’s magical to be part of a cinematographic project. Regarding jazz, I first fell in love with Ella Fitzgerald. My love for music is endless: I can just turn on any radio station and be inspired in many ways.


LONDON RUNWAY If you could trade vocals with any established vocalist (current or former), who would you choose and why? I’d probably go with Christina Aguilera! The girl can sing anything and has such a strong vocal identity. I love how adventurous she is as an artist.   In your biography, it states that you have felt as though you were born in the wrong place, could you explain this feeling?   I think looking back on this, I would slightly rephrase that statement as I believe that everything happens for a reason. What I meant by this is that I was not connected with the music industry at all in Strasbourg, which is my hometown. For this reason, it’s been a really long and tough journey to establish my connections to the music industry. I also always felt like I never really belonged anywhere because of my roots, and I somehow felt ‘adopted’ by the English language and culture. I also found out later on in life that I have some Irish descent, which is interesting!

"I BELIEVE THAT EVERYTHING HAPPENS FOR A REASON" Your biography also touches upon your personal issues regarding selfconfidence and body image. How heavily have these issues affected you? Would you say they ever affected your musical progression? Oh, completely. I always thought that in order to succeed in the music industry you had to conform to the ‘perfect’ beauty standards that are shown and expressed on TV and other media outlets.  It took me a very long time to build up the confidence and self-love needed to accept myself for who I was and just go with the flow. There is no such thing as perfection.  


You began dancing in clubs and Parisian cabarets. Can you tell us more about your transition into the dance world, what it entailed, and how it affected your situation and mindset?   I think it allowed me to broaden my horizons and connect with people I never thought I would meet in my life. It definitely took me out of my comfort zone, and sometimes that’s the only thing we need in order to grow.  I had to look at myself differently, knowing that it was all about my personality. Being unique and not being afraid to stand out are what makes an artist successful.  

Another accomplishment in your arsenal is your appearance as one of ‘The 100’ on the latest series of the BBC’s All Together Now. As the show is fairly new, would you mind explaining the concept for anyone who may not have seen it?   The show started at the beginning of last year and has won a broadcast award for the fastest travelling format of 2018 worldwide. There is a judging panel of 100 singers, all from various different musical backgrounds. The panel is captained by the Spice Girls’ Geri Horner and the show is hosted by Rob Beckett. If we like a particular contestant, we stand up and sing along gaining them a point. The one who gets the highest score wins £50,000. The first few episodes aired from the 2nd of March. How has the reception from your family, friends and fans been?   I think they’ve all really enjoyed watching me on their TVs so far! I think for my fans it’s another way for them to connect with me outside of my music and gives them a closer look into who I am as a person. The show has been a massive success so far, so my family and friends are really happy for me. Many viewers have said online that they enjoy the easy-going nature of the show and the fact it doesn’t take itself too seriously. Would you agree with this?   Absolutely! We’re all in there to have a good time and have fun, so I think

LONDON RUNWAY that’s what people feel when they watch the show. Of course, there is a big amount of money to be won at the end of it and the show can really lead the contestants to some serious opportunities, despites its easygoing nature. We’re also really proud that Michael Rice, the winner of the first season is representing the UK at the next Eurovision. In addition to All Together Now, you have also been busy working away at your debut album, ‘Because I’m French’, which I’m happy to say is fully completed and set to be released on the 26th of April. How are you feeling in the lead up to the release?


I can’t believe it’s finally ready. It’s been a really long and intense journey and it’s an absolute relief for me to get it out there! It’s been an important part of my life and I look forward to starting a new artistic chapter. Tell us about the process behind the album. How does it compare to your previously released EP both musically and in the writing and recording process?   My first EP was recordings from a live acoustic performance, so it was a completely different process as it was all recorded pretty quickly. For this album I’ve been working with producer and multi-instrumentalist Koby Israelite. When I heard his previous work, I knew it would be a perfect fit for the songs I had written. The album was then mastered in Israel by LA based Helik Hadar, who has previously worked with Madeleine Peyroux and at Abbey Roads Studios by Geoff Pesche who has work with the likes of Lily Allen and Kylie Minogue.


Do you have any shows planned to support or promote the album? Yes, I do! My album launch show will be on the 25th April at Morton’s Club in Mayfair. It’s going to be great to finally unveil these songs to the world and perform again.   Speaking of concerts, you have a very impressive gigging history, playing renowned venues across the continent such as Wembley Stadium, The Royal Albert Hall and even the Eiffel Tower. Do you have a personal favourite out of any of the shows you have played?   It was incredible! It’s always a special thing to perform in an iconic building and I feel so blessed to have had the opportunities to do so. I think my personal favourite was performing at the Eiffel Tower as we were performing to support the release of the movie 'Freedom.  L’envol d’un aigle’, with a real eagle flying from the Eiffel Tower. It was pretty impressive!

LONDON RUNWAY If any of your current achievements are anything to go off, the future is looking very bright and extremely busy for you. Where would you like to see yourself in five years’ time?   It’s hard to predict exactly what will happen, but I see definitely more albums and videos in my future! I would also like to perform abroad a bit more with my band and keep on writing music for movies. I’m also always happy to develop my career on TV, fashion and acting if the opportunities to arise. I guess we will see where my career takes me! How have you worked on building your image?

As I know your readers are into fashion, I hope they might also be interested in the way I’ve developed my image, as this is an extremely important part of being an artist. I’ve of course partly been influenced by the French chic of Coco Chanel, but also the whole vintage scene that’s quite prominent in the UK. I’ve been lucky to work with some amazing new emerging fashion designers like Nicolette Toddor and Chika Wear for my videos or artworks. Combining some vintage pieces with more modern ones has become second nature for me and using this image and my music to support charities like BBC Children In Need, Barnardo’s or Kawasaki Fund is really important for me.

See more from Oriana at

All images by Ian Clark



BETHANY WILLIAMS Photography by Michael Atkinson

Patchwork was the word at Bethany Williams. It was a fitting theme, as the materials used to create the clothes were newspaper waste and recycled denim - not your average fabrics. The young designer was presented with the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design by the Duchess of Cornwall. The award commends rising British talent, community values and sustainable policies, which Williams was able to embody with her collection. Adelaide House, a women’s shelter in Liverpool which focuses on domestic abuse, partnered with the designer to receive 20% of the profits from each sale of the collection's pieces.





This season at Rocky Starr was all about layering, with ruches and frills piling up on one another in their droves. The models looked exceptionally warm, with coats on top of jackets, shirts, and fulllength wide-leg trousers. Where in some places there was modesty, in others there was the peek of skin through sheer fabrics and between mini-dresses and thigh-high boots.

Photography by Ian Clark

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Floral prints were a major theme, with a certain abstraction that made the designs more accessible. Black was a constant throughout, with subtler pops of colour here and there to match the dramatic rock-style hair and makeup.




TEN INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS TO INSPIRE YOUR SS19 WARDROBE Stuck for spring and summer wardrobe ideas? Judith Willis suggests ten of the best Instagram accounts to follow for style inspiration.


Bec + Bridge (@becandbridge)


Another brand that has a great social media presence. Bec + Bridge’s Instagram reminds me of old school Hollywood but colourised! Infinitely aspirational, glamorous and vibrant, B+B is worn and adored by the likes of Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner.


Faithfull the Brand (@faithfullthebrand) This label is OWNING Instagram right now and is the ultimate holiday shop destination. Most of its posts are shot in and around exotic locations using 35mm film, creating a dreamy, nostalgic vibe. The price tags are a little scary but if you just want some gorgeous outfit or holiday inspiration, Faithfull is the brand to follow.



Lack of Color Hats (@lackofcoloraus) I’m a hat junkie: the bigger the better. Featuring boaters, caps and bucket hats in all shapes, sizes and designs – even if you’re not that into hats, Lack of Colour’s Instagram will make you appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship that goes into their products – and will also make you want to book your next beach holiday ASAP.


Aranáz (@aranaz_ph) Basket totes are all the rage, and they’re the perfect accessory to complete any spring/summer outfit. Aranáz don’t just create basket totes, they create a handheld work of arts! Each bag is handmade and unique due to the intrinsic characteristics of the materials used, and until I find a wealthy rich husband to buy me the whole collection, I will continue to gaze at Aranáz’s Instagram account with heart-shaped eyes.

Zulu & Zephyr (@zuluandzephyr) This Australian boutique beachwear brand’s Instagram is all about sunkissed skin, sandy hair and cool, clean swimwear. Each shot could be a holiday postcard and if you’re a fan of flat lay photography, Zulu & Zephyr have got it covered.

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Bernadette (@bernadetteantwerp) Quirky, romantic and vibrant silk dresses designed by a mother and daughter duo. This Antwerp based brand is just starting out on Instagram, but it’s full of promise and whimsy.


Straw (@strawlondon) A small British brand selling vintage straw, wicker and crochet “one-off pieces with a story”. Their Instagram style is coordinated, simple and modern. Follow Straw for true summer handbag porn and also to support it as a flourishing business!

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Seafolly (@seafollyaustralia) The word “folly” means a lack of good sense or foolishness – I say it would be foolish not to follow this Aussie label that designs swimwear, beachwear and activewear for everybody. Be inspired by their bold statement prints, contrasting textures and beautiful lines.




Gillia (@gilliaclothing) Gillia’s Instagram is the definition of escapism. Similar to Faithfull, Gillia’s feed features magical landscapes, enchanting still life shots and sophisticated women adorned in easy-to-wear summer essentials.

10 Valentina Muntoni (@valentina_muntoni) I’m not a huge fan of social media influencers – to me they are just well-dressed sales people. But Valentina Muntoni, co-founder and creative director for clothing collective Rat & Boa, is a style icon and if you’re looking for fashion inspiration, you’ll find it here.

Follow Judith on Instagram @_misswillis_




STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rachel Parker

Matt and Nat JULEP belt - Black £30

Komodo CAMERA Bag White £70 Thought Clothing Plain Bamboo T-Shirt £29.90

Good News Softball Weave Low £100

Mango Committed Mom Slim Jeans £49.99






Hair Everywhere London Fashion Week is always the ideal time to catch up on all the trends taking over the beauty world, and this season was all about the hair. Here’s what Rachel Parker learned about the new styling crazes having their moment on the catwalk.

Sculptural Styling Forget complicated millinery and accessories: the latest trend in headwear is sculptural hair design. At the Burberry show, models wore their hair gelled into intricate curlicues across their foreheads. Inspired by Art Nouveau patterning, these flapper-style headbands complimented the more traditional eveningwear aspects of the collection, while gel and strong eyebrows added a tougher streetwear edge. Hair gel was also evidently in considerable supply at JW Anderson. Stylist Anthony Turner used vats of product and a fine-toothed comb to carefully sculpt models’ hair into Legoinspired helmets that swirled around their skulls, with the remaining hair pulled back into tight knots.

Alphabet Tresses Hair clips were all over the catwalks this Fashion Week – from the elegant pearl slides at Ryan Lo to the glittering clips in messy beehives at Ashish. The show was stolen by Ashley Williams’ rhinestone hairpins, which covered the backs of models’ heads to spell out words such as ‘Books’, ‘Void’ and ‘Delete’. British designers aren’t the only


ones embracing the alphabet clip look, with designers such as Gucci releasing their own line of logo diamante hair accessories. Meanwhile, it wasn’t just the models sporting this particular trend at LFW. London Runway’s Chief Editor Rhiannon spotted audience members wearing glittery word hairclips at several shows, revealing that this trend has already found its footing off the runway.

Swept-Back At Molly Goddard, the models’ hair was twisted back into sleek low ponytails and twisted with black jersey bands to create a boyish, utilitarian look. Paired with smudgy black kohl eyes and fresh skin, this look would be quick to replicate and has an effortlessly cool appeal. Likewise, the Gayeon Lee show saw laid-back ponies and low buns paired with hair scarves and ribbon fastenings, complimenting the sophisticated simplicity of the collection. Loose low ponytails were also on the catwalk at Markus Lupfer and Victoria Beckham. It looks like casual and relaxed styles will be on trend throughout the new season – good news for any of us who just want an extra ten minutes in bed.

New Heights While one fashion contingent was enjoying the laid-back low-pony look, another was testing just how high hair can go. Gareth Wrighton experimented with hair piled in concentric knots and set boltupright for his Fashion East presentation, spraying the creations with bright colours for more

LONDON RUNWAY futuristic fun. Paul Costello was all about the textured top-knots, while at the Livia Tang presentation, we saw gravity defying space buns and upswept fringes. Finally, Zandra Rhodes paired crimped and sculpted up-dos with Bowie-inspired makeup and feathered hair accessories, imbuing her collection with a signature air of quirkiness.

Frizz Please

Put away the John Freida – it looks like this season, frizz is on trend. Yes, you heard that right: the battle with fly-aways is over. Stylist Chiao Shen maximised frizz at the Jamie Wei Huang, styling messy windswept locks into an asymmetric design. Meanwhile, Alex Brownsell created fuzzy haloes around relaxed ponytails for the Alexachung show by rubbing models’ heads with a balloon and setting with hairspray for a carefree and effortless effect. Elsewhere, brushed-out curls and matted waves showed that this season, texture is everything.

exaggerated centre-parted fringes, playing with 50s and 60s references to create a look which was at once demure and arresting.


The natural look was taken to a whole new level at Renata Brenha, with several looks accessorised by head pieces sculpted from foliage. Large mossy crowns and tendrils of succulents all made an appearance in the collection. The designer has been outspoken on issues of sustainability and ethics in the fashion industry, and the styling at her AW19 presentation took an interest in plant-based and upcycled materials quite literally. Photography by Tim Van Der Most

Candy Clouds

The pastel dip-dye may have had its moment back in 2015, but the Mary Katrantzou show resurrected the look to compliment the coral, peach, lilac and blue shades that characterised her AW19 collection. Colourist Josh Wood created candycoloured waves – dubbed ‘colour clouds’ – using textured extensions which were hand painted to imitate the spectrum of hues visible on the horizon at sunset.  Styled into loose, grungy waves and finished with simple hair grips, this would be an ideal festival look for minimum upkeep and maximum impact.

Hollywood Glam

The Mark Fast show took inspiration from the glitz of Old Hollywood, blending pastel hued make-up with some very 1950s hairstyles. Pincurls, victory rolls and sleek bobs all had their moment in the spotlight, updated for 2019 with some messy and asymmetric styling. Ryan Lo also embraced the Mid-Century vibes, with bouncy waves and quiffs featuring heavily at his show. Meanwhile, the stylist at Richard Quinn juxtaposed delicately plaited hair pulled into low chignons with


EUDON CHOI Eudon Choi delivered a collection in largely neutral colours, set off by pops of bold green and orange that defied the utilitarian, workwear vibe. Masculine tailoring was alive and well in the looks, bringing a certain flair to collars and silhouettes. Each of the models was cool, collected, and ready to take charge - whether controlling the room or taking a back seat. Photography by Fil Mazzarino









Drawn elements in the new Junne collection appeared to highlight the very timbers of the body, a striking look that might have stood out the most in any other collection. In this one, however, it was the metallic knitwear that really shone - pun intended. A gorgeous sea-green colour took centre stage through a number of different pieces that featured ombre effects, ragged hems, and eyelets. Large knitted pieces bore peplums and arms were placed through holes in the weave rather than the sleeves - an innovative look for certain. Images via Dyelog PR



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DITCH YOUR DISPOSABLES Joanna Cunningham explores how you can reduce your carbon footprint with some eco-friendly ways to dispose of beauty products. Are you looking for new and inventive ways to save our dying planet? Well, I may have just an answer for you. Recently, I came across an advert for The New Arc —an animal rescue centre who make use of your old mascara wands to soothe young animals by brushing their fur. Who knew, eh? It’s amazing that even if we don’t necessarily cut out every waste product we use, we can still give something back to our environment in ways we didn’t even realise. Before we delve into all the ways we can recycle our waste makeup items, I think it’s important to specify why it’s so important that we all get on board with companies like The New Arc. Unsurprisingly, cosmetic packaging can be hard to recycle due to the sheer diversity of materials. In fact, when the waste reaches the recycling companies, they often don’t know what to do with the array of things they receive, and just send it off to landfill sites.   Unfortunately, plastics used in makeup packaging last for millions of years, ending up in our oceans, rivers, and lakes. Sadly – and I’m sure you’ve seen the heart-wrenching images of the plastic in our oceans in recent years – this plastic not only causes fatal problems for the wildlife, but actually contaminates the water, which can have disastrous effects on the world around us.   In the UK, programs like Blue Planet have opened our eyes to the effect that humans have had on our world. It’s sad to see our wonderful wildlife in pain, and it’s horrible to think that we, the designated protectors of this world, are the cause. As a society

we have become so used to the conveniences of modern life that we forget to be respectful to the earth. However, as David Attenborough has told us, it’s not too late – there is still time, and even just the smallest action can produce shockwaves. With this in mind, I’ve found four companies that use your cosmetic product leftovers to make a positive difference. 1. The New Arc The New Arc is a small charity in Aberdeenshire, who pride themselves on their “safe haven” atmosphere for abandoned, abused, or unwanted pets. Each year, thousands of pets are delivered to the doors of places like The New Arc. Naturally, these pets are often pretty shaken up, and need an awful lot of comforting and soothing to recuperate. This is where we humble makeup users can come in. How? Well, the brushing feeling the clean mascara wands provide actually mimics the grooming techniques of rabbit and bird parents, so it’s an ideal way to calm them down after a difficult ordeal. It’s also a really great way to get into their fur and feathers, removing dust and mites to keep them clean and comfortable. You’re probably now wondering, “How can


I get involved?”. One of the first things I did when I discovered this brand was to collect all my unused mascaras (unbelievably, I had about three used mascaras which I hadn’t binned yet!) and prepared them to send off. All you need to do before sending off your used mascara wands to The New Arc is wash them thoroughly using soap and warm water. I’ve attempted this before, and I must admit that it is no mean feat. It almost seems as though the product will never be fully removed! That said, I think it’s worth the effort in order to not only help these poor animals, but also save our oceans and land from becoming contaminated by plastics. Once you’ve done this, simply package them up, and send them to: The New Arc Nether Auquhadlie Auchnagatt Ellon Aberdeenshire AB41 8UW Who knew it was as easy as that to make a difference?

LONDON RUNWAY of materials, making them difficult to recycle. That said, a lot of them are usually pretty sturdy, and even aesthetically pleasing. Why not upcycle these pots, using them as trinket dishes, plant pots, or even tea-bag holders? 2. Pet Groomers We’ve seen how The New Arc use recycled makeup wands to soothe frightened animals and clean their fur or feathers. Well, why not give this a go yourself at home? All animals can benefit from a brush of their fur here and there, so why not give it a try?

2. Origins Origins was one of the first creators of programs for recycling cosmetic packaging. This was all the way back in 2009, way before the panic about our oceans set in all over the world— you may otherwise know this “panic” as the Blue Planet effect. Origins take used packaging from all companies, whether that be drugstore or high-end brands. Instead of up-cycling these materials like the other companies, they actually use the materials from the packaging to host their own cosmetic items. So, their own makeup packaging is made from 50% of the recycled consumer goods. Ideal! 3. TerraCycle TerraCycle is a huge initiative, with drop-off points dotted all over the UK. You may have even passed one without even realising! These drop-off points are places to recycle all your old packaging, and not just beauty packaging. We’ve seen already how most generic recycling centres won’t always take every item and much of it will end up in landfill. With TerraCycle, you can rest assured that whatever you choose to recycle with them, from coffee cups to lab waste, they’ve got you covered.   4. MAC Would you believe that one of the largest makeup brands in the world is getting on board with

recycling? In their “Back to MAC” scheme, they’ll take up to six empty MAC containers at a time to be recycled into new products! Not bad, eh?

Other Ways to Recycle Your Makeup Products It’s not just companies who can make use of your old makeup products. In fact, you can take initiative on your own and find new ways to up-cycle your old cosmetic packaging. Let’s take a look… 1. Decorative Pots Skincare is a massive element of many people’s everyday routine, but these pots are made of all sorts

3. Makeup Containers These days, people are experimenting with not just new ways to recycle their packaging, but new ways to eliminate packaging altogether. A recent video on Buzzfeed showed three women attempting to make their own makeup using natural ingredients, like honey and cocoa powder. Perhaps, if you’re feeling really nifty, you could attempt making your own products at home. This way, you can use old makeup containers to host your home-made goodies.

As you can see, there really is no end to the innovative ways you can get rid of your old cosmetic packaging. In an ideal world we would all just stop using this packaging altogether, but today’s society makes it extremely difficult to get on board. Before the big companies make any changes to the packaging they use, we have to take initiative ourselves. It can sometimes begin with the little man, but we just have to know where to begin. Hopefully, this article has provided you with that small stepping stone to get the ball rolling. Good luck!

You can keep up to date with Joanna’s work on her blog,, or follow @itstartedwithrebecca on Instagram, and @iswrebecca on Twitter. All images via Pixabay


NEIGHBOURHOOD VOICES: STEPNEY Historically inhabited by immigrants, the impoverished, and undeveloped marshlands, Stepney is now a district in London buzzing with thrift stores, markets, and the notable Stepney City Farm. Heading to the East End Thrift Store pound sale thrifting event, here are some voices Candice Wu heard as she took in the beauty of the now modernised area.


What are your fashion inspirations? It’s honestly just usually jeans and a t-shirt. I also follow a lot of Instagramers. Does coming from Basildon have an influence on how you dress? No. I’m not the stereotypical Essex girl.   Do you come to Stepney Green often? No. I’ve only been there once and that was it. @bess.waggott



SOPHIA MERZOUK (STUDENT, MORROCCO, LONDON) Do you come to this area often? Only for East End Thrift Store, but yeah. What are your fashion inspirations? My fashion inspirations usually come from the 80s, usually like Summer wear. Even though it’s cold out, I’ll try to make it warm a bit. It’s really alternative like I try to be experimental. I try to mix things up. If I can’t mix it, then I’ll push the boundaries a bit.   Does where you’re from influence how you dress? Yeah. I’m from Morrocco, so it does affect, I guess, the colourbase of it, so I do wear a lot of colourful, bright colours. I don’t like to blend in.   Were you born in Morocco? I came here when I was 3. @sophiam.mp4



MARYA MERZOUK (STUDENT, MORROCCO, LONDON) What are your fashion inspirations? I don’t really have one specific person. Do you know what I mean? It’s just if it looks good, then it’s fine, but I think people are always like, “oh, if it’s Adidas, then you’ve got to wear it.” But, if it looks good and you feel good in it, then it’s fine, you know. That’s all that matters. Don’t spend a lot of money, like we’re doing now with the pound sale.   Does where you’re from influence how you dress? Yeah, it does because people do a lot of cleavage, but you just got to feel comfortable with yourself. Sometimes they’re not that comfortable having a lot of cleavage. In Morrocco, there’s usually not that much cleavage, but it kind of shows respect for yourself. If you feel comfortable by not showing anything, then yeah. Again, if you want to show that and proud of that, then go ahead.   I’m assuming you and Sophia are sisters. Who’s the older of the two? She’s the older one. Haha   Do you come to Stepney Green often, as well? Yeah, about the same thing as my sister, for the pound sale. But, we might sometimes head to the cinema here now and see a movie. @Smilinmercenary



LAUREN MARCH (TRAVELER, LONDON, AUSTRALIA) AND DANIEL WILLIAMSON (BARBER, LONDON) Where are you from originally? L: I’m originally from Australia, but I just moved here actually for this one here. *points at Daniel* D: I’m a barber from East London. Aw, that’s sweet! What are your fashion inspirations? L: Umm… D: The 80s L: The 80s, yeah, and Lana Del Rey! D: For me, definitely, like, Jim Morrison, David Bowie, and stuff like that. You know, just the weird and wonderful. My folks were hippies, so very like… the flowery shirts and all that sort of stuff; the thrift store and cheap clothes. Mostly music people and the way they dress.   Does where you’re from, Australia, influence how you dress? L: No, actually. Nobody really dresses like... people here dress a lot differently. I feel like I belong here, fashion-wise.   And for you, does East London have an influence on your fashion identity? D: No, not really. Music had an influence on how I dress and the tattoos and stuff. Like, where I’m from, everyone wears like £500 clothes, and what I’m wearing now probably costs about £50. It’s not really a bit of me with all those expensive clothes. It’s like being comfortable and a bit weird.  

So, like comfort with a bit of flair? D: Yeah, that’s it. 100%. Do you have any examples of how the fashion styles are different from here and Australia? D: Everyone’s a bit quirky around here. L: Yeah, especially around this area. Yeah, in the East London area. Do you come to East London and Stepney Green often? L: This is my first day. He’s taken me here. D: I’m sort of showing her these little cool places and stuff. The thrift store (East End Thrift Store) used to be there, but now they’ve got a new place and you need to queue up. That’s my bad. We didn’t want to waste a day queuing up since we have a nice day planned, so I don’t want to spend it in line to be fair.

@LaurenMarch @dans_off_the_wall_

You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.



Candice sits down with James Scroggs, CEO and founder of workwear brand M.C. Overalls, for an exclusive on the brand’s history and future plans.

Could you give us a little recap on the brand and its history? How it came about? So, this brand dates back to 1908. It’s 111 years old. It was founded by two brothers and their best mate, who had left a Lithuanian village looking for their fortune, in a sense. I think they were so young, they probably didn’t realize what they were good at, so they went out to learn. They were what I regard as the classic apprentices, and they ended up in South Africa and learned how to braid waistcoats. The more waistcoats you wore and the more ornate the braiding, it was a sign of your status in life. Then, in the 20s, they ended up in East London and had learned how to cut and sew denim and heavy twills into uniforms, and they supplied uniforms for British military but also for machinists and factory workers during the war. The business was eventually sold in the 50s. The trademark, Morris Cooper Overalls, stayed within the family of the founders, and the greatgrandson was in a meeting with me on something entirely different the first time I met him and said, at the end of the meeting, “I have this amazing trademark in my family that I don’t really know what to do with it, and I want to do something with it.” At which point, I put my hand out and said I had a few ideas, which started a conversation with a bunch of other people, and that conversation evolved.


LONDON RUNWAY In May 2017, we had created our first collection. And, I had been to trade shows trying to sell the first collection in wholesales and found that, because my background is extensively and more recently in music and technology, the conversations mirrored the conversations I used to have in music, which is where a music label would say, “I love your artists. I love your songs.” I would go, “Would you leverage them for me?” “No.” They’re not prepared to take a risk. Go and prove you have an audience for this artist. I found there was a similar echo going on with the wholesale retailers, even though we had fantastic feedback, so I came back and decided to go direct and build a pop-up shop in Dean Street Soho. It enabled people to come and meet me, to come and hear the story, to come and understand why I was doing it the way I was doing it, to see products that we were only just sampling, and build much more of a narrative around this rather than what might have otherwise happened. And, it went really well. We sold an awful lot in the eight weeks that we were there, and that gave me the confidence to then decide that the foundations of this store had to be in a flagship store concept where people can come and actually talk to me and touch the products. The reason why I haven’t told a heritage story about this brand (It might have been very easy and intuitive to tell a story and use references from 1908) is I think the world is somewhat fatigued or confused about heritage because a lot of people cling to heritage or use faux-heritage. As much as we have a true heritage, the references we’d have from 1908 would be on a relatively smaller scale, and I felt that what was most interesting about the founding story was that being in the mindset of that 17year-old entering the world, not really knowing what they’re good at, and in a sense, going on an apprentice’s journey and learning by doing stuff. I feel like that’s particularly relevant today in that the myths and legends of linear careers are gone. We have a workforce who has a lot of side-

hustles, and they might earn money over here but, actually, they’re exploring what they’re passionate about or good at over there. That sort of fluidity, I think, plays into what workwear is about. We now live in a world where the formality of work and the informality are blending. Therefore, to come up with a collection that is unisex, because I think gender roles are blurring. It’s quite interesting to take a unisex brand that takes, as far as I understand it, an effectively male and classic workwear silhouette, kind of oversized, hardwearing, boxy, and structured shape, and sizing down to petite women. So, you have one pitch to people, and the pitch is that we like hardware fabrics that are really easily washable with pretty much all of our stuff being machinewashable at 30 degrees, that is colourful. I like stretching men out of their comfort zones into something a bit more pop that has a uniform feel about it. I thought lovingly about a poly cotton suit, which is matching colour-wise, so you can wear a suit feeling like you have the formality of the workplace but actually its playful and can be separated and styled how you will. There’s a uniformity therefore to the look. For example, in our signature overalls, we have people who wear them with sneakers to dress them down, and then, we have people who wear heels and dress them up. I love that fluidity. I’m also keen to keep a very tight, affordable, and accessible price point. Because I’m not from the fashion world, I’m not a big believer in seasonality or interested in selling in season. I’m interested in people having the ability to keep coming back and knowing and confident that they can buy the same silhouette and same styles again and again. So, we will keep making the same products as much as possible. Of course, we will explore various things that are a bit more on trend, but the core of this business, I want to keep really consistent. We have very low-key branding, where our branding is tone on tone and tends to be embroidered; pop colours, pastel colours, and things


LONDON RUNWAY that take people out of their comfort zone but make it feel like it’s got a really strong personality. This goes back to that founding ethos of making sure that when people are wearing them out or wearing them to work, they feel really confident and says something about the way they view the world. Industrious, hard-working, our founding ethos, and I think it’s where people are successful today where they have that. You said that you were more recently involved with music. Why did you personally want to get into the fashion business? I’ve always been a buyer and lover of fashion. I’ve mentioned a few times to you before. I regard myself as the last turkey in the shop. Also, I run various businesses at the corporate size, as well as smaller businesses, so I was very interested in coming into a market that I don’t know much about but, in a sense, having worked for 25 years and applying a new logic to it because I don’t know what the rules are. I'm creating my own rules. Many people would argue, “Why on earth would you go with a brick and mortar store when, actually, fashion is more largely online?” With my response, I would say, “Yeah, but if I launched online, I think it would be really difficult for people to really touch and feel what this brand is about.”


wears our stuff, I promote them through our Instagram feed to express something about what they see in the world. So, we don’t have an advocacy program that’s based on chasing fame and people with big follower numbers. I’m interested in standing alongside people who, I think, are kind of peers in what we’re doing here. Whether that’s beer brands or new bands that are trying to break or artists who don’t have a strong following yet, I see a work ethic and aesthetic that is parallel to ours. This means that we all build the fanbase together, and that community is really vital if you’re going to build a strong and vibrant business. If you go back to the music world, one hit wonders, the reason they’re one hit wonders is they might strike it lucky once, but they don’t have a fanbase to fall back on. I’m also really mindful that the overall boilersuit is very fashionable at the moment, but that fashion will move on. I want to make sure that the strength of what we’re about beyond the overall is really, really secure so that, when people stop buying overalls in a few years time, we actually have other things that are appealing to them. It’s not just about the overalls. The overall is a signature, but there’s actually much more beyond. With your music background, are you trying to incorporate it into the business in some way?

I am interested in the growth of a business to start and build a really tight fan base. People out there advocating and evangelising what we’re about and what the clothes say about them. Instagram is my shop window beyond this store, and I am really keen that everybody who


"I’M INTERESTED IN STANDING ALONGSIDE PEOPLE WHO, I THINK, ARE KIND OF PEERS IN WHAT WE’RE DOING HERE" Only in ways where I know how to work with young musicians who have a day job but they desperately try to carve out the time to express themselves, write and perform. And, I think, if anybody is emblematic of that hard work ethos and, also feel like it’s their calling to nurture and grow with it and the fanbase, for me, that’s a really strong place to be associated. Not exclusively, but it also helps that I know about music. I’m interested in musicians as a breed of people. They’re unique sorts. So, it's kind of an obvious place for me to start with this, but I also am a lover of contemporary arts. I used to sit on the board of the Institute of

LONDON RUNWAY Contemporary Arts (ICA), so I have a desire to explore that, as well. Similar to writers and chefs. Anything creative that has that sort of apprenticeship principle of how you become successful in that field. You have to, kind of, learn it and earn it. When they come in here, they’re coming in here not because that’s what they do but because, outside of their day job where they earn their money, they have some other interest that they’re exploring. I think they see us as that kind of brand.


With your idea of consistency for the brand, do you plan on later expanding out or possibly going international? Yes, we are still doing wholesale. Wholesale is now growing, so we are in Harvey Nichols menswear. We’re about to launch in Harvey Nichols womenswear. We’re in about 14 different accounts from Berlin to France to Toronto, Edinburgh, London, Paris. We just signed three accounts in Japan, which is very exciting. I want this to be a global brand. Why? Because I think it doesn’t feel like a regional, fashionista moment. This feels like something that could be universal to a lot of people. It sounds kind of silly, but it has that democratic principle. Therefore, my ambition is to have that one flagship store, which is the epicenter of your business, but actually hope that the ripples are created by lots of people wearing it, talking about it, and stocking it across the globe. Would this store in Soho be your flagship store? Yes. I’m a massive Soho fan. I think there’s something about the melting pot of Soho that’s unique. I think it’s pretty unique, globally. I had the opportunity to open it in an old bar. With this being an old bar means that the dynamic of the space is very different, and I love that. It’s not an obvious retail environment. By basing the business and my office and our design and selling in the same environment, when we have sale appointments with retailers, we simply put the new product out, and I would welcome the public to come in and touch that product and go, “When’s that coming?” You then get a sense of what people are responding to and whether the ambitions for the products are being met by the customer’s interest. There’s a sort of transparency and intimacy to all of that that I really, really hold dear. I think we will always have a flagship in Soho. I’m hoping this store because it’s the perfect store for us, but maybe we’ll outgrow it or have to move on for all sorts of reasons. Some of these other stores bring in such a diverse bunch of people. There’s a very interesting


mix of brands here, and I feel very at home even though we’re only 21 months old. We’ve come a long way, and we’ve got a really long way to go. It’s exciting, really exciting! It is exciting! Transitioning to your products, what is the production or creative process like? Is it extensive? It’s all made in China in order to be able to do it in a scale and being able to be really confident in the supplier chain because, again, I’m new to fashion so that end of things is relatively new to me. I’m learning quickly, but also to make sure that we can achieve the price point. I want to keep the price in an affordable bracket, so it goes from a £30 t-shirt to a £180 top. I think that that ceiling is important to maintain. I’ve said that in the Summer, we’re launching our first linen collection, and that’s going to be a little more premium. But, again, I want to make it an accessible version of a linen proposition. Again, it will be in pop colours, so we’re doing a Fuschia and, what I’m loving, they’re calling a Savaro Blue, which is like a sky blue. It won’t be an obvious, sort of, safe linen, it will be pop linen, which would be good. It’s like the price matches the quality. Yeah! I think, as a consumer, I would say that our quality is really, really good for the price point. We pride ourselves on quality and robustness of the garment because that’s important to me. I want to be confident that I can wear it for a long time and not lose colour or find something falling off in the washing machine. Do you have a go-to product or colour, that you or your customers usually go for? Interestingly, when we started the business, one of the biggest debates we had around the table was whether we should actually make overalls. It’s, you know, in the name, clearly, but there was some doubt amongst my investors on whether people would buy it. I, personally, also had a bit of a

LONDON RUNWAY hankering to wear overalls because I thought there was something quite interesting about it, and you sort of grow up with Air Force men and Scifi dramas that are all wearing overalls and think, “Oh, this would be pretty cool.” So, what I found is actually, for me personally, once you put it on, it’s quite difficult not to take it off. You could also style it up or down. It’s really great. What I’m wearing today, the pink overall, is probably, to this day, our signature piece, the one across the press and what people are most infatuated by. In fact, the test was, on our first pop-up in Dean street, we had a sample of the Dusty Pink overall that I spotlighted at the back of the shop, and it was interesting watching people, who had never heard of our brand, walk straight to it, as if it were some sort of sacred relic. So, the Dusty Pink overall is our signature, but, you know, things like our reflective coat jacket and our band of poly cotton coat jackets have been very popular for men and women. It’s very universal, and I’m a very big fan of the green denim because, again, I think it’s a very striking look. Yeah. It’s a very nice statement piece. It is a statement piece, and I think it’s really fun. We also collaborate with lots of artists, so some of these that I have here are complete oneoffs where we’ve worked with an artist called Jennifer Louise Martin, who’s an artist graduate to customise them specifically as oneoff art pieces. You can either wear them or hang them up on your wall. That sort of sense that this is all a canvas in which you can imprint yourself is really exciting. That’s a really lovely interpretation to it. On that note, the big question from our last issues was: if you were stranded on a desert island, what is one beauty product you would take with you, whatever you would class as a beauty product? Probably would be a Prince record.  

"THAT SORT OF SENSE THAT THIS IS ALL A CANVAS IN WHICH YOU CAN IMPRINT YOURSELF IS REALLY EXCITING" of identity. I think there is a, sounds ridiculous but, a purity and beauty to what Prince was about, even, occasionally, if people didn't like his music. There was something beautiful about what Prince had and delivered. For me, that is something that if I had to go on a desert island and had one thing to remind me about my sense of gravity, my sense of identity and what beauty is and how you channel it, that’s Prince, an extraordinary spirit.

A Prince record? Yeah. Prince, for me at a very young age, completely redefined my sense

Shop MC Overalls at You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9.



YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE With an increase in temperature and the start of the growing season in the UK, Candice curates stylish hats and fruits to match your astrological sign. Protect yourself from the harshness of the oncoming UV rays while munching down on these delicacies.

Aries March 21 - April 20 Enjoy a fibre- and vitamin-packed Dragon fruit to boost your immune system while wearing this Madeleine hat by Janessa Leoné. The simplicity of the handwoven bucket hat compliments the eye-catching look and colour of the dragon fruit.

Taurus April 21 - May 21

Elderberries are packed full of antiviral and anti-inflammatory properties, but they’re also delicious and easy to consume, which perfectly reflects the Taurus who is both practical yet nonconventional. Hillier Bartley and Lock & Co.’s brown felt Portobello hat is also both stylish and comfortable.

Gemini May 22- June 21 This cute and refreshing Cucamelon, with its hybrid lemon and cucumber flavour, is delicious for the hotter weather when you’re wanting something unexpected. Paired with this unisex Hatfield bucket Hat by Fjällräven hat, the quirkiness of Geminis will really shine through.



Cancer June 22- July 22

This minimalistic, off-white linen Olivia hat by Janessa Leoné is a classic hat version of a Cancer. With the same medicinal and flavour properties as a grapefruit but without the bitterness, a Pomelo is a mouth-watering fruit to try.

Leo July 23- August 21 As controversial as this fruit may be because of its putrid smell, the Durian, notoriously known as King of the Fruits, is a clear match for Leos, who bask in the attention whenever exposed. Once you get past the hard, intimidating exterior, the sweet and creamy fruit in the center is worth the stench. Wear this Venezia straw hat by Filú Hats for its fun, brighter than the sun ribbons.

Virgo August 22- September 23

You might think that the dark interior of the Black Sapote is a sign to toss it in the bin, but it’s actually a positive indication of ripeness. With its deterring appearance yet claims of tasting similar to chocolate pudding, this fruit will stimulate an aspirational, curious Virgo. This Panton fedora hat by Janessa Leoné pairs perfectly well with its universal face-flattering silhouette.



Libra September 24- October 23 This tan straw floppy hat with the zig zag band detailing by New Look and the Starfruit go hand in hand. Both are fun and playful, yet still provide health benefits. One provides protection from the sun and one provides us healthy plant compounds. Libras will love both!

Scorpio October 24- November 22 The intimidating exterior and name of the Prickly Pear might deter you, but the extensive list of health benefits (anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant, and etc.) might draw you back in. Tasting like asparagus, it reflects a Scorpio’s tough love exterior yet still caring and nurturing interior. This Pergola wide brim black straw hat by Lola Hats will fit in any Scorpio’s closet.

Sagittarius November 23- December 22 With mango, banana, and pineapple flavour profile among so many others, a Jackfruit will take you on a trip of new tastes all in one bite. This is perfect for the ever-seeking Sagittarius, especially with its Vitamin B, potassium, and protein properties. With this Madura cap by Madurese Batik, they’ll be constantly roaming and exploring now that the weather is warmer to venture out.



Capricorn December 23- January 20

This large black brimmed sun hat by ZARA will protect a Capricorn from any unwanted sunburns or UV rays. The Soursop, also known as the Guanabana, has notes of fruits, such as pineapples, strawberries, and a combination of other citruses. Both sweet and sour, just like the Capricorn.

Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Cherimoyas are creamy and delicious. Said to be one of the best tasting fruits, like the jackfruit and guanabana, it has many different layers of flavours, such as banana, strawberry, and pineapple. Donning this multi-colour stretch headband by ZARA, although not as sunprotecting, fashionista Aquariuses will walk around bubbly and full of energy with Cherimoya in stomach and rainbow on head.

Pisces February 20 - March 20 Lychee or Litchi helps with the production of red blood cells. With its light and refreshing flavour, it will get the Pisces pumping with creativity to go out and express themselves. Never one to pass on a unique statement piece, this printed bucket hat by ASOS will be wellloved in their collection for wearing as well as inspiration. You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via Pixabay or respective retailers


ON|OFF Photography by Fil Mazzarino

The On|Off presentation at this year's LFW was, as always, a treat. It also offered one of the best goody bags of the week, with designer names and credits printed on the outside and Sesame Street merchandise inside. Reshake presented PVC in primary colours, a collage of 90s athleisure that include puffa coats, oversized styles, and knitwear, as well as denim treated in plastic. Kimono styling then translated down into longline coats paired with wide leg trousers in a predominantly red and black palette. Then came Sesame Street, with Big Bird and other recognisable characters walking for Jimmy Paul. It was all bright fluff, feathers, ribbons, tinsel, and toys. Most notable were the giant fluffy skirt and the shoes, splattered with paint drips. For Longshaw Ward there was a familiar sight, as they continued the theme of embroidery on sheer fabrics from last season. Now there was added applique in the form of beads and bells on sleeves, trousers, coats, and even shoes. Tulle bows and layering came in neon shades the green coat was our favourite. At IA London, oversized lips were everywhere. On shoes, dresses, tights, and even worn as masks, these embellishments told the tale. Older models were used, wearing

overdone nails, platform shoes, and red stripes for their makeup. It was all imbued with oil paintings used as classical prints. D.P.Tanner presented floral Victorian baker caps and newsie suits with lots of intense layers. Ribbons, ruffles, puff sleeves, bows, and quilting were in infinite number. All-in-ones and sensible boots lent a practical, utilitarian edge to the extravagance. Finally, Colin Horgan closed the show in black PVC with pops of red. Hair was slicked back with paint, and the models wore single dog tag earrings. Wrist passes became jewellery, and the gloves and shoes provided a real moto vibe. Long silhouettes were created by layers, all held together by bondage-style straps.




















FACE OF LONDON RUNWAY 2019 We're searching for our next cover star. Could it be you...?

NATALIEBCOLEMAN NatalieBColeman presented a collection together with the United Nations Fund in support of women's reproductive health. Alongside the models sewing in hoops and reading books we were shown videos of women struggling in third world countries and refugee camps. The clothes included feminine ruffles and long skirts under knitwear, much of it emblazoned with one word: 'Sisters'. Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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VINTED: THE FUTURE OF FASHION? cheap on a dodgy Chinese site, right?

Rhiannon D’Averc tried out an app that is all the rage right now – and discovered whether it’s the future of fashion, or a flash in the pan. Vinted is an app which allows you to sell your old clothes to strangers, or people in your local area. It has come more to the mainstream consciousness in recent months, with posters and other advertisements splashed across London. It promises the opportunity to get cash for your unwanted items – but what is the reality of using the app?

So, I listed this item, noting the correct size, and was pleasantly surprised to find that it had sold just a couple of days later. I actually got back what I originally paid for it, minus a bit of the shipping fee, so that made me pretty happy. After the order had been confirmed, I had a few days’ grace to get it shipped out to the buyer’s address (you can also choose to have items delivered to a local pick-up point if you don’t want to reveal your home details).

We’ve all seen the videos scattered across YouTube of bloggers using sites like Wish, which seem to offer too good a deal to be true. Usually, it turns out that it really isn’t true at all. eBay has also suffered from a poor reputation, as user to user sales often end up in tales of “lost” parcels, fake item sales, and difficulty with holding others accountable.

The funds were not put into my account right away. Rather, after being taken from the customer’s account, they sit in limbo with the Vinted team during the delivery process. Once the customer has received the item and confirmed that it was as described, they clear the funds and you get paid. I got great feedback from this customer, which encouraged me to go ahead and list more.

So, does Vinted fit into this category as well? I’ve been using the app for a couple of months, and I have to say I’m pleasantly surprised.

Working in batches, I’ve now managed to list over 65 items – from my own wardrobe, my partner’s, and even my Mum’s after she heard that I was successfully selling. I’ve only managed to get rid of six items so far, across five sales, but that feels like a very good rate for just a few hours of work to take the photos and write descriptions.

I started listing a batch of items that were old things from the back of my wardrobe, some worn and some brand new, that I no longer wanted. My first experiment was actually with a bra I had bought from another website: it was not delivered in the correct size and the customer service team turned out to be, well, non-existent. That’s what you get for buying something

The listing process is pretty fast, and the shipping process is also straightforward. Buyers can choose to have their items sent by Royal Mail or by another shipping service, in which case you can actually print off shipping labels at home and just

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LONDON RUNWAY drop them off. There are two methods for advertising your items within Vinted – bumps and spotlights. Bumps get a single item highlighted, while spotlights will put your profile into search results as a collection of items that buyers might be interested in. So far, I haven’t tried either as I’m happy waiting for the sales to come in. The process of buying and selling is largely community-driven. A user can favourite your items, showing their interest. After my first round of listings, I became a bit more savvy and realised that most users expect to be offered a discount when they hit the favourite button. You can do this via direct messages, and they can either accept or make a counter offer. You can also lowball anyone yourself if you want to make a purchase. If a user has items marked as ‘available for swap’, you can also just exchange them after reaching an agreement. I’ve bought one item through the app – a pink duster coat that caught my eye – and the process is just as smooth as it is with selling. The best part is knowing that you’re shopping with money that you’ve made from selling other clothes – it really turns it into a recycling process! One downside is that the policing of the listings also seems to be more community-driven. While there are plenty of rules in place about what you can and can’t sell, a lot of users seem to ignore them and list whatever they like – including fakes. You can report offending listings – I reported a pair of gorgeous Adidas trainers I wanted that turned out on closer inspection to be, er, not Adidas, and they were taken down fairly rapidly. That does mean there is a certain sense of buyer beware. It’s also not like a shop where you can just return something that doesn’t fit – your best option may be to relist it and sell it on. So, what’s my final verdict on Vinted? I love the fact that you can clear out your wardrobe while also making some spare cash,

What’s more, this is a much more eco-positive way to shop. You aren’t contributing to the pollution of the fashion industry, either by throwing clothes away or by buying them new. Yet, you still get something new – or at least new to you. This is pretty perfect for those of us who want a high turnover of looks and styles, like bloggers or models, yet don’t want to blow their budget. It might not be the future of shopping in its entirety, but I can certainly see this model sticking around for a long time. The sharing economy is a real force, and the idea of sharing clothes like this definitely works. There may come a day when the app is overrun with fakes and fakers, but until that day, I know where I’ll be going every time I find a skirt that I haven’t worn in years hiding at the back of the rail. allowing you to also shop others’ unwanted items. It means those ill-judged Christmas presents don’t just get stuck at the back of the drawer, and you can have what you actually wanted.

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Find Rhiannon on Vinted as @jaggeddreamland. And if you’re selling pink Adidas trainers in a size 5, let her know…

ROBERTA EINER Mother Nature was in the room at the Roberta Einer show, which featured piles of wood chips and floral installations. Birdsong played in the background as models clad in red tartan strode the runway. Longline tailoring with masculine elements was placed against relaxed femininity. Formal shapes and blazers walked with pink streetwear, creating an interesting juxtaposition. Hair scarves decorated sleek plaits, while simple brown, pink, blue, and green leather belts cinched each waist. Shiny puffa also made an appearance alongside heavily sequinned skirts and shorts. Images by Fil Mazzarino



FASHIONS FINEST Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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This season saw a new venue for Fashions Finest, now a firm fixture in the off-schedule calendar. The designers, in order of appearance, are: Kanna Yeung, Linda Blissett, Louise Moody, Mary Dickow, Miss Boss Fashion, Olya Sookie, Phatos, and award winner Tuncer Tonun.


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Want to feel like the Ice Princess? Take a trip out in one of these gorgeous gowns from the Najawa Alfadhli collection. Bejewelled and sparkling tulle brought a timeless elegance, with classic and chic silhouettes.

Photography by Fil Mazzarino

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We asked, you answered

What has been your most regrettable style choice?


“Probably that leggings phase we all went through where we just wore leggings all the time” – Francesca R Palumbo, designer

“I do see on my Facebook memories a lot of poor choices from going out. Probably shorts to just above my knee and just a tshirt, and a studded belt”

- Laura Beattie at Careaux

“THE TEENAGE GOTHIC STAGE!” – Suskie Sue, designer at Black Doll Boutique

“A white shirt and then white flared trousers that are used for climbing, and sparkly sandals. I thought I was living my best life!”

"NEVER HAD ONE, I'VE ALWAYS LIKED DOING 'ME'" - Pauline Brown, model

- Rachel Beattie at Careaux

“That giant fringe in 2007 that everyone had – it did not suit afro hair. It just kind of levitates!” – Chish Kabole, model

"I used to pair a buttondown short-sleeved shirt with a long ruffled skirt fairly regularly. Very interesting look" - Rhiannon D'Averc, editor

Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question

LONDON RUNWAY Find London Runway: Front cover: Ashish by Fil Mazzarino Back cover: NatalieBColeman by Fil Mazzarino

Profile for London Runway

London Runway Issue 36  

Featuring the Handle Your Heels workshop, interviews with Oriana Curls and MC Overalls, Instagram inspiration, LFW Beauty Report, how to get...

London Runway Issue 36  

Featuring the Handle Your Heels workshop, interviews with Oriana Curls and MC Overalls, Instagram inspiration, LFW Beauty Report, how to get...