STREETS is back with vengeance! Our Revival Issue features an exclusive interview with recording artist Nicole O’Brien, we chat with sustainable brand Pangaia on all things green, and fashion label Yrmos. Editorials from Vitalij Sidorovic, Si Melber, Leoni Blue, and much more!
Editor’s Letter
Revival—a word that carries many meanings. It's something that we see constantly in fashion, but on a personal level, don’t we all need this at times: to make a comeback in some way, like a refresh or a resurgence? Welcome to The Revival Issue of STREETS Magazine for AW’24
In fashion, revivals are part of the cyclical nature of style. Trends that once defined an era often return, bringing with them a sense of nostalgia with a fresh perspective. This issue of STREETS invites contributors to revisit memories of the past, breathing new life into forgotten eras The Revival Issue asks each contributor to reinterpret and innovate their own unique interpretations of the word, whatever they may be, some more or less obvious.
The theme is fitting because we’re experiencing a bit of a revival ourselves here at STREETS, rebranding and relaunching the publication. Established in 2016, we took a break from producing the publication, but now, we’re back - and celebrating!
STREETS was founded as a platform to support both emerging talent and established names. Today we remain committed to this mission and our passion for celebrating creative talent like you, in joining our community
Polo Shirt: TOPMAN | Shirt: ASOS LUXE | Shorts: ASOS DESIGN | Cap: JACQUEMUS Necklace: JADE STELLENBOSCH | Bag: LOEWE
Shirt: ALL SAINTS | Shorts: DICKIES
Nicole O'Brien on Reality TV, ‘Making It’ in Music & Socks & Sandals
Words:JoshLane
Photographer:SimranKaur
FashionEditor:HanyaKamhawi
TalentManagement:ABDLentsManagement
Hair&Makeup:RossinoEliaGriffin
Talent:Nicole
Having amassed a considerable following after a spell on Too Hot To Handle, many might take a moment to rest on their laurels. Many, but not Nicole O’Brien. In fact, the hundreds of thousands of loyal followers she’s amassed across social media is probably one of the less extraordinary things about her. A self-professed singer from the age of five, she plays the piano and the guitar, and has studied and performed various forms of dance for over a decade. For her, it was and always will be about the music - and with several singles that have charted in the UK, and an EP releasing this year, those laurels won’t be seeing a sofa any time soon.
Hey Nicole! Great to have you on set - how are you today?
Feeling so good - I love getting glammed And spilling all the tea in interviews Best day ever
How are you finding London?
I love London There’s so much to offer here: lots of artistic and creative people I come from a tiny village, that’s basically one street So it’s very different; going home feels like I’m going to a different continent. But I love the busy lifestyle, and being busy, so London is for me. I actually want to move to New York!
Do you think you’ve learnt anything from your time on reality TV?
Yes, a lot. I’ve learnt how to deal with lots of different people with different personalities to me Being patient too although I’m not sure I have a lot of it. The only reason I did TV in the first place was to get a platform to do music It’s helped a lot with confidence in front of the camera; off the back of the show there were a lot of interviews
Shirt, Top: JESSICA PARRY | Shoes: CASADEI
“You have to be resilient.. No one makes it within a year... work hard; if .. you’re good at something, you’ll get there!”
Do you watch it yourself?
I actually haven’t watched reality TV in so long the last one was probably last year’s Love Island Actually that’s a lie - the Kardashians (super basic, I know) is one of my favorite shows It’s just something you can switch off to because it’s so easy.
Speaking of switching off – are you TikTok or Instagram?
I’m a TikTok girlie. I love it - although I definitely need to post more. It’s like: scroll, scroll, scroll I have to pull myself away because it’s so addictive I’ve had a ragdoll cat for a year, and my o account is this woman who also has one, called Juney I love those videos
What’s next for your music? Can we expect an album soon?
I have an EP coming out, so the next single will be coming out in September, which is exciting. Then the EP. There’s a lot to come! My next live performance is also on the horizon: it’ll probably be in August, potentially in Marbella So that’ll be a laugh
Do you ever get stage fright?
I do - but I prefer performing to big crowds rather than small crowds! I recently did a show called Chat2 and it was performing in front of like 10 people. That’s more scary for me.
Who would your dream artist collab be?
Shania Twain. I know it’s so different to the music I do, but I just love her. Or, do you know what - CharliXCX at the moment She’s killing it It is a Brat Summer, 100%
What’s your advice to anyone looking to get into music?
You have to be resilient You have to have a lot of confidence, and be prepared to get knocked down quite a lot No one makes it within a year All these artists – even someone like Tyla – have been doing it for years. You need to persevere and work hard; if you work hard and you’re good at something, you’ll get there
How has your style developed over the years?
I used to wear a lot of really short dresses and really high heels. Now I’ve gone a bit more chilled, like oversized clothes I love a tracksuit: I love loungewear Just whatever makes me feel comfortable But that’s also cute and sexy as well I’m trying to find a happy medium
Who do you take fashion inspiration from?
I love Bella Hadid’s fashion She’s so effortless with how she dresses Obviously there’s a lot of effort involved, but it looks effortless
How do you relax?
Lying in bed, watching TikToks with my cat My guilty pleasure is a bit of Father Ted, too And a face mask - self-care is so important!
How do you feel about socks and sandals?
Anyone that wears socks and sandals - get in the bin It’s not the vibe For me, anyway
And a dream city to perform in?
Definitely New York I’m manifesting it!
Thanks for speaking with us today! You’ve been great What’s on the schedule for the rest of the day?
I was meant to be going for a few drinks, but now I’m just going home Relax, take it easy, watch movies Who knows - maybe a bit of Father Ted
Jacket: KONTHORN WUTTHIWONGANGKHANA Shorts: PAUL SMITH
Coat: JESSICA PARRY | Top: JEAN PAUL GAULTER Shorts: SAVAGE x FENTY | Shoes: STEVE MADDEN
Twinning
Art Director & Picture Editor: Si Melber
Fashion Editor: Hanya Kamhawi
Contributing Photographers:
Anastazja Dzik, Eva Osborne, Jennifer Van Der Linde, Sam Woodley
Hair: John Christopher
Makeup: Kristina Pavlov
Fashion Coordinator: Suzanne Faure
Models: Jess @ IMM Models Zack B @ Named Models
Jess wears: Glasses: BONNIE CLYDE | Jumper, skirt: KAROLINA BROWN | Shoes: PUBLIC DESIRE
Jack wears: Shirt: SISTER JANE | Vest: HORDE | Trousers: SUGAR Y SAL | Shoes: GRENSON
Gloves: HANDSOME STOCKHOLM | Jacket: SCHOTT | Trousers: KAROLINA BROWN |T Shoes: BUFFALO
YRMOS: “muted tones and geometric simplicity!”
Words: Josh Lane
Shirt, Top: JESSICA PARRY | Shoes: CASADEI
In an era of fast fashion and dupe culture, emerging luxury brands are jostling to establish themselves as relevant. Seeking stability, high end houses are turning back to one thing that can’t be replicated: stories. Both the culture of the brand, but also the yarn spun by a garment’s journey through production. Someone that undoubtedly recognises the significance of these stories is the founder of YRMOS, Ulrich Boulon.
When I speak with him, he’s in his Islington studio prepping for his August release It’s Friday afternoon and I apologise for eating into precious weekend time He shrugs it off: he’ll be back in the studio tomorrow morning
His journey into fashion began with fond memories from the French West Indies, “pressing the pedals for [his] mom and grandma” in the small workhouse where the matriarch’s of the family made school uniforms. It wasn’t all sunshines and rainbows, though There are no idealised tales of a childhood spent drawing and daydreaming; as far as a future was concerned, he says, “the idea was to get out of there.”
So he did just that, pursuing a degree at medical school for two years, “because that was the only path” One thing that stands out from the off is a hardened pragmatism. Finally, he saw his chance and moved to Paris to complete a postgraduate in design, before landing a job in the digital design team at Burberry Juggling various freelance gigs alongside his own brand and studio, he moved to Givenchy to assist with art direction in 2023
I ask what it was like, stepping into his first big French house He notes the “ethos around house codes” that struck him immediately.
“They are the signifier for a house a visual language” In Givenchy’s case, “the bow…and chains”, found scattered throughout their archival pieces.
When asked about his inspirations, phrases like “simple, considerate execution” and “the discipline of making” mark his approval One look at YRMOS’ collections and it’s clear that subtlety of expression is key: YRMOS’ house codes, according to him, are “muted tones” and “geometric simplicity.”
There’s a lot of value placed on slow fashion: it’s the brands that are “10, 15, 20 years in the making” that he says inspire him. As for contemporary brands he rates right now:
“I like Wales Bonner in England. There’s something about independent designers that are able to tell the story of their vision.”
But his origins are actually in digital design not the slowest of mediums. What does he think about the impact of tech, then, and it's inevitable speeding up of things?
“I started to see that storytelling was a big thing for digital.” Digital, for him, is just another question of “how we reiterate a story over and over - it’s a way to enhance or amplify that story ”
I press a little further, onto AI. But he’s adamant that these technologies are simply misunderstood: “they will develop a new channel It’s an extension of fashion It’s not replacing ateliers; it’s a tool that people are trying to figure out.” There’s that pragmatism again.
Behind the scenes he’d always wanted to pursue his own vision; he’d founded YRMOS, his own brand, in 2021
“It came from the idea that we don’t really know who we are. Some days we feel we belong here or there. But we will always remind ourselves of somebody else ”
There’s a strong emphasis on interconnectivity and cultural heritage, like the brands he looks up to He talks often about a “constant past” we check and re-check to “help us move forward ” I’m keen to understand what moves him forward though, and why he decided to do his own thing.
“Often we have to put on a mask or a garment that will make us fit a space, and I want to make sure that people don’t feel this way.”
The idea is to impose as small an opinion as possible on people’s choice, so they can be themselves through it. I love the idea of a brand that is egoless, that allows people to bring themselves to the brand and molds around how they feel comfortable
The idea of an egoless brand might be something of an oxymoron, but he shrugs off the idea that fashion is inherently political:
“I think you can definitely exist outside of that. If you have conversations with people, If you remove the ego, there is nothing political about it. I have no agenda I do not intend to get political, or become an activist ”
This is in part because, again, he’s “ very slow”. On the slowness of things and taking your time, he mentions transcendence, which can often seem like a platitude in this world But it’s clear that what he’s looking for is more stripped down:
Nowadays, people aren’t buying because it's a big brand They are buying because they want something by someone who has the same values as them It's a way for me to connect with them
He notes fondly that “behind the big machine of being a fashion designer, there is still the idea of giving something to somebody, and seeing what they become with it
Time is arguably a luxury though. Becoming something with an item of clothing means really wearing it - and there are costs to prioritizing the high-grade materials that permit this He admits that pricing and accessibility has been hard to navigate.
It takes us 12 hours to make a shirt It does become expensive to sustain that the idea for me is how to build the best product, and sometimes you don't make a sale because it's so expensive for the mass market.
While musing about transparency, he’s quick to point out that a lot of YRMOS’ materials are upcycled, too:
Sustainability is a big yes for me As an industry we have an impact, so that’s why I’m keen on Made in England
A lot of them are still sourced internationally though He admits it's a tough line to tread for an independent
It is hard, I will not lie I try to source fabrics that are certified; traceability is something I learned at Givenchy Locally sourced is my next goal, but in England it's quite difficult
Clearly, this delicate balancing act is something he’s become accustomed to On the topic of staying grounded in the fashion world, he notes:
“I stay connected to the people that surround me. I wouldn't qualify myself as a street boy, but this is where I come from It’s good to have both ears, because you can hear both sides of the story ”
I bring up streetwear - at which he laughs out loud
I actually think streetwear is an editorial term. If you meet someone on the street and you say, do you wear streetwear? I think they just wear whatever they feel confident in Streetwear will always be there and it's always been there, for people just to feel comfortable. It predates what we would consider modern streetwear
In the vein of trendy, he’s often freelanced for Soho House, a place often criticized for souring the collaborative spirit of the creative industries. I wonder if he feels that collaboration is harder in today’s environment
When you try to do high end and street, it’s just a marketing move. There is a strong sense of purpose and intention that needs to come first before a collaboration It takes time It's fading because people are not believing in it
In spite of this, he’s far from unrealistic about the business side of things. One of the lessons he learnt during his time working in digital, he admits wryly, is that “everything is a pitch at the end of the day ” So - what advice would he pass on to aspiring designers looking to strike their balance?
“You’re only able to make it if you work really hard There is not a day that I do not produce. A fashion house is not going to bring you any money, for a long time. But you might enjoy the reward of seeing your clothes worn by the best, by people you admire because it's a piece that talks to them
Get over yourself when it comes to doubt. Have a pragmatic goal, have a vision of where you see your customers. Forget about the lifestyle you see on Instagram ”
It’s not all blood, sweat, toil and tears though On starting his own brand, he notes with a grin that “they are all amazing: your first sale, first artist, first shoot, these things.You really feel everything.”
As we start to wrap, I’m intrigued to know how (or if) he ever relaxes “Music and prayers” is his response, suddenly coy when not talking about work.
And when, half-jokingly, I inquire about what someone like him wears to kick back in…
“I actually made some drop-crotch shorts so I can wear them every day They’re my favorite at the moment ”
It was only going to be something that he’d conceived of and created himself Or, perhaps, a soft pitch?
YRMOS’ next offering drops with A/W pieces early next year
CArt Director: Rebekah Roy
Photographer: Si Melber
Contributing Stylists: Kritika Modi, Riya Panchal, Sultan Armutlu, Anaya Pahwa
Hair: Evan Huang
Makeup: Jo Sugar
Fashion Coordinator: Suzanne Faure
Model: Yudai @Body London
Vest: CHESHE | Shorts, footwear: ASOS DESIGN | Eyewear: BLACK STRIPES
Blazer, Footwear, Facial Accessory: BLACK STRIPES | Shorts: COS
Metallic Top: ZARA | Vest, Facial Accessory: BLACK STRIPES | Shorts: COS
Blazer, Footwear, Facial Accessory: BLACK STRIPES | Shorts: COS
Shirt: CHESHE | Shorts, Footwear, Eyewear: BLACK STRIPES
RecocoBrat
Photographer & Stylist: Jen van der Linde
Production: Maxime Di Giacinto
Grooming: Mariana Feliziani
Fashion Assist: Alessia Di Giulio
Model: Lua Freidemberg @First Models
T-Shirt: ARTIST MERCH - ROTTING CHRIST | Corset: CREAMING ELI | SKIRT: ASOS | Shoes: TOGA PULLA
Jacket: VINTAGE SUPERSTORE CORNWALL | Bandeau Top: DAVID KOMA | SKIRT: SINEAD GOREY
Top: LETITIA DELISH | Lace Skirt: DAISY STREET | Shoes: DREAMING ELI
Eyewear: WEEKDAY | Dress: DREAMING ELI | Shoes: TOGA PULLA
T-Shirt: ARTIST MERCH - DRUG CHURCH | Sleeve Dress: POSTER GIRL
Slip Dress: VINTAGE - OUTRA FACE DA LUA |Shoes: DREAMING ELI
T-Shirt: ARTIST MERCH - ZAND| Eyewear: AIRE | Long Sleeve Dress: POSTER GIRL
Shorts: POSTER GIRL | Bag: PRADA
Green Watching: Exclusive Interview with Sustainable Fashion Pioneer PANGAIA
Words: Josh Lane
Sustainability is becoming a slippery slope in today’s climate. Younger generations are more eco-consciousbut also emotionally drained and financially hard pressed, often turning instead to fast fashion. Digi-natives prioritise expedition over slower, climate-conscious supply chains. Founded in 2018, PANGAIA Collective led the charge when it came to eco-friendly material innovation; the conversation around them has since quietened down, however. We caught up with their team to get their thoughts on the relevance of sustainability now, and how to keep it green in 2024.
Q: What’s PANGAIA’s ethos?
A: Our ethos revolves around creating an Earth positive future by fusing science, design, and purpose. We're a global collective scientists, technologists, designers working together to develop essential products from cutting-edge technologies and bio-engineered materials Our philosophy merges nature's abundance with advanced technology to enhance the functionality and sustainability of our textiles We’re championing the shift to a bio-economy
Q: Do you think sustainability is still a priority in fashion right now? Has the conversation died down?
A: Sustainability remains a big priority for the industry, and it remains a critical priority for us By sharing our innovations and impact blueprints, we aim to inspire and enable more responsible production and consumption across the global apparel industry.
Q: Which other brands do you see as peers right now, sustainability wise?
A: We don’t see other brands as peers – we see them as partners we hope will join us on our journey. Our collaborations with leading research institutions and scientists are central to democratising these innovations, making them accessible and scalable for adoption by brands, businesses and individuals, creating a broader impact.
Q: People want to care about the environment but they also want cheap clothing and prioritise convenience - fast fashion is more popular than ever. What are your thoughts on that?
A: We recognise the tension between convenience and sustainability, but we believe in offering an alternative that doesn’t compromise ethics or quality. Our mission is to create lifestyle products that are not only innovative and problem-solving but also contribute positively to the planet By investing in sustainable materials and practices, we aim to make responsible fashion accessible and desirable, ultimately shifting the industry towards more sustainable norms
Image credit: Pangaia AW campaign
Q: You opened a store in the UK recently when lots of brands are moving online Why?
A: Our UK store on Carnaby Street serves as more than just a retail space it’s a physical hub where customers can truly experience the brand We believe that a tangible, in-person experience can deepen understanding and connection with our ethos
Q: Common criticism for luxury loungewear are the high price points for “essentials” or everyday clothes. What are your thoughts on that?
A: We understand that sustainability comes at a cost, but by introducing new technologies and scaling sustainable practices, we aim to drive down costs. This approach helps make sustainable innovation the norm rather than the exception As a young brand, we ’ re at the beginning of a journey to revolutionise materials and eliminate reliance on petrochemical-based synthetics and mono-crop materials
Q: What do you think of the idea that “sustainable fashion” is a myth? Can a brand ever truly be net zero / be 100% sustainable?
A: No brand is perfect - our commitment is to continuously improve, setting new standards and sharing our innovations to encourage responsible practices Transparency is key, ensuring that we remain accountable and open about our progress and challenges We see the journey to sustainability as a collective process
Q: Do you think plant-based alternatives can truly replicate or surpass the feel of fabrics like wool and silk? How far away are we from that?
A: We’re already making significant strides with plant and bio-based alternatives Our C-FIBER™ material innovation, made from eucalyptus pulp and seaweed powder, offers a soft, silky feel while being water-saving and 100% biobased Additionally, our regenerative merino wool and recycled cashmere technologies not only replicate but enhance traditional fabrics by reducing reliance on virgin resources
Q: How important is transparency in what you do?
A: Transparency is at the core of everything we do. It’s essential to operating as a responsible business Our responsible innovation team meticulously verifies the environmental footprint across our entire supply chain, and we openly share our progress through annual impact reports.
Q: Any hints at what’s next for PANGAIA?
A: We’ve got some exciting new material launches on the horizon that will continue to set new standards for the industry Our ultimate vision is a world where every business and individual can be Earth positive, and we ’ re committed to leading this movement by scaling our innovations to become the ‘ new normal’
Q: What advice would you give for aspiring creatives or designers looking to head their own brand in a sustainable way?
A: Prioritise transparency, invest in materials science innovation, and always adhere to industry best practices. Building a sustainable brand requires a commitment to these principles and a willingness to continuously evolve, learn and improve This way, you can create meaningful, long-lasting impact and set a positive example.
Image credit: Pangaia AW campaign
BLOOM
Photographer: Leoni Blue
Art Director: Rebekah Roy
Contributing Stylists : Kat Hackshaw, Christiana Piatti
A heartfelt thank you to all our incredible contributors. To fashion photographers Vitalij Sidorovic for the cover story, and Si Melber, Leoni Blue, among others, for creating such beautiful imagery.
To our talented stylists, makeup artists, hair teams, John Christopher, Jo Sugar and Kristina Pavlov amongst others, and art directors, Steven Doan and Rebekah Roy. To Nicole O’Brien and ABDLents Management, and for words by Josh Lane. A big thank you to the various fashion PR teams and model agencies who continue to support us — you truly make us who we are.
A special thanks to fashion brands Pangaia and Yrmos, and the London College of Style, with whom we partnered on several projects, sourcing next-gen fashion talent.
Work With Us
If you are interested in contributing your work to STREETS Magazine as a fashion stylist, photographer, still life stylist, hair or makeup artist, fashion writer, or graphic designer, please contact us at:
