Storytelling
PHOEBE DAHL on the power of self belief and inspiring change by example. A new chapter unfolds for Mulberry with Creative Director JOHNNY COCA . Le Kilt’s SAMANTHA McCOACH on how her label’s understated style captured even Kate Middleton’s attention. ARI SETH COHEN shows us more timeless personal style with his new book, and we follow independent pop phenomenon FEMME , who demonstrates being a debutante in 2016, without the demure blushing.
For this second issue we were drawn to the idea of storytelling, but not in the sense of make believe. Instead, we were interested in the ways in which we communicate ideas about who we are, how we define ourselves through personal style, the stories we choose to tell about ourselves.
Your style and how you present yourself to the rest of the world is ultimately your choice. Do you choose to live in the now? A STREETS reader does. STREETS is all about nowness.
So in this, our second issue, we invite you to partake in these stolen moments as we share some of our current passions. With a subtle botanic theme to the titles of our stories, the issue asks of you, ‘Are you a blushing wall flower or a baying dandelion?’ – define your moment.
Thanks again to all of you who offered us continued support for our second issue.
With my very best gratitude,
Dan Blake, Editor-in-Chief
www.streetsmagazine.com
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Dan Blake
SENIOR FASHION EDITOR
Steph Wilson
FASHION FEATUREST EDITOR
Colin Chapman
FASHION EDITOR
Kristofj Von Strass
FASHION REPORTER AT LARGE
Cristian Burbano
GUEST BEAUTY EDITOR (HAIR)
David Wadlow
ACTING FASHION CO-ORDINATOR
Christos Christou
SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR
Paige Goodes
FASHION ASSISTANTS
Ailton Pereira, Yuliya Oleksenko
Jordan Victor-Harrison, Pamela Idström
ART DIRECTOR GRAPHIC DESIGN
Christopher Agius Burke
FOUNDERS & PUBLISHERS
Dan Blake & Wendy Elsmore
STREETS MAGAZINE LTD.
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GUEST FASHION EDITOR
Ursula Lake
GUEST BEAUTY EDITOR (MAKE UP)
Neil Young
CONTRIBUTORS
Benjamin Kaufmann, Bjorn Kriecher, Chloe Mallett, Chris Chasseaud, Daniel Nadel, David Titlow, Florian Renner, Greg Sorensen, Indigo Goss, James O’Riley, Jenny Brough, Jon Gorrigan, Josua Gibson, Kenneth Sah, Kusi Tzarkusi, Maya Linhares-Marx, Nick Thompson, Nicole Walker, Oskar Gyllensward,
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GOLDEN NECTAR
photographer: JOSH CAUDWELL
stylist: MAYA LINHARES-MARX
STELLA MCCARTNEY BAG
There’s no two ways about it - a Stella McCartney bag is a modern day classic! For me the signature woven chain detail is up there with the quilting of a classic 2.55 Chanel bag and every girl needs one in their lives!
STEPH WILSON SENIOR FASHION EDITOR
YSL- ROUGE VOLUPTE
Not only is the packaging elegantly luxurious but this silky smooth and creamy formulation is saturated with intense colour pigments that leave the lips divinely plump with a subtle shine.
NEIL YOUNG GUEST BEAUTY EDITOR – MAKE UP
Put a ring on it...or actually why not one of Monica Vinader’s latest statement pieces. Whether you are feeling slightly punk or slightly more demure, Monica Vinader’s latest collection has something for every woman! Dress them up or dress them down, you have no excuse ladies!
CHRIS AGIUS BURKE
ART DIRECTOR
MONICA VINADER JEWELLERY
MASCARO BOOT
Really what’s not love about this gorgeous metallic boot? A good height heel that will be both leg lengthening but not impossible to walk in. Best of all it’s got just the right amount of Ziggy Stardust to elevate a simple outfit to something more fabulous.
GUEST FASHION EDITOR URSULA LAKE
ANYA HINDMARCH SILVER METALLIC BAG
Space Invaders! If you were lucky enough to have grown up in the 80’s you’d remember these loveable critters first hand. Making a starring appearance in Anya Hindmarch’s Pixelate collection for AW16, you can now revisit them in this season’s cuter-than-cute must have bag in silver metallic, finished with an embossed smiley face and silver tassel.
Oh Atari game console! Where are you now?
DAN BLAKE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
LOEWE WALLET
The magic touch of Jonathan Anderson has pushed Spanish heritage leather brand Loewe into the realm of pure, covetable luxury. This oversized wallet in vibrant metallic red is no exception. With a tactile all-over repeat embossed logo the effect is of sleek Disco shimmer. The easy glide of the chunky gold zip makes this item as pleasurable to use as it is pretty to look at.
COLIN CHAPMAN
FASHION FEATURES EDITOR
SHOW BEAUTY HAIR TREATMENT OIL
SWAROVSKI SPECIAL EDITION
This Argan Oil with its sweet, burnt vanilla aroma is like no other oil available. Penetrating the hair cuticle, strengthening and enhancing, It’s a lightweight elixir that leaves hair feeling healthy, smelling delightful and looking ultimately desirable. It also looks great on your vanity.
DAVID WADLOW GUEST BEAUTY EDITOR – HAIR
MARKUS LUPFER BOOTS AND CHRISSIE MORRIS HEELS
Disco is not dead! It is back this season on the catwalk and should also be in your wardrobe. There is nothing better than some fabulous disco boots or sparkly heels to brighten up an outfit or the dance floor on a Saturday night. For me the stars this season are these super glam Markus Lupfer boots and Chrissie Morris heels.
KRISTOFJ VON STRASS FASHION EDITOR
HAIZHEN WANG BIKER JACKET
Haizhen Wang’s bold alternative to the black leather biker jacket. His addition of diagonal zips on beautifully worn soft cracked leather makes it even more unique. This is a perfect example of this season’s jacket trend of the boxier silhouette. Pair this up with a burnt orange or pastel slack trouser and you will be rocking it.
MAYA LINHARES-MARX STILL LIFE STYLIST
D1 MILANO WATCH
The PR 01 model from the Italian fashion accessories brand D1 Milano offers a perfect fusion of function and style. Made from a lightweight poly carbon polymer, coated with a manually applied ‘soft touch’ coating for added comfort and a luxurious skin feel, it also features Miyota 2315 movement with a quartz clock and brushed rose gold face.
FASHION JOURNALIST AT LARGE CRISTIAN BURBANO
spring awakening
photographer: BENJAMIN KAUFMANN
stylist: EVA-MARIA SANTNER
Jumpsuit: SANYUKTA SHRESTHA Bracelets: BUTLER AND WILSON Rings: GILLIAN HORSUP, JESSICA DE LOTZ
Earrings: GILLIAN HORSUP VIA GRAYS ANTIQUE
Blouse: CLOBBER
Earrings: GILLIAN HORSUP VIA GRAYS ANTIQUE
Earrings: DINNY HALL
Bralette: MAISON CLOSE
Top: VINTAGE MISSONI
Earrings: GILLIAN HORSUP VIA GRAYS ANTIQUE Bralette: ELLE MACPHERSON INTIMATES
Top: VINTAGE YSL Briefs: CALVIN KLEIN Stockings: CALZEDONIA
Top: ISABEL MARANT
Scarf: STYLISTS OWN Shirt: DAGDA
Rngs: GILLIAN HORSUP, JESSICA DE LOTZ
Sneakers: ADIDAS
COSMETICS
HANNAH SHAKESPEARE @ SELECT MODEL MANAGEMENT
Hair: DAVID WADLOW @ PREMIER HAIR AND MAKE-UP USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE, BABYLISS PRO
Make-up: JAMES O´RILEY @ PREMIER HAIR AND MAKE-UP USING MAC
Photographer´s assistants: KIRSTIE LYNN FOX, LUCAS PERRIER
Models: EDWINA PRESTON @ SELECT MODEL MANAGEMENT
forget me not forget me not forget me not forget me not forget me not forget me not forget me not
photographer: FLORIAN RENNER
stylist: COLIN CHAPMAN
Shirt: JAMES LONG
Robe: JAMES LONG
Tank top: UNIQLO
Boots: J LINDEBERG
Socks: AMERICAN APPAREL
Jacket: STYLISTS OWN
T-Shirt: AMERICAN APPAREL
Jeans: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Boots: J LINDEBERG
Scarf: ROCKINS
T-Shirt: SOULLAND
Waistcoat: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Jeans: ARIES
Socks: AMERICAN APPAREL
Jacket: KAPITAL
Jeans: PEPE JEANS
Sleeveless vest: HENRY HOLLAND Shorts: JAMES LONG
Set design: BENNY CASEY AND TOM HOBSON Grooming: JOSHUA GIBSON FOR SASSOON USING SASSOON PROFESSIONAL Fashion assist: AILTON PEREIRA, PAMELA IDSTROM Model: DUNCAN PYKE @PREMIER
photographer: OSKAR GYLLENSWARD
stylist: NICOLE WALKER
Necklace: PRADA Turtleneck: ANN-SOFIE
Dress: AMANDA GERELL Sandals: ANNE-SOFIE
Overtop: CARL GUSTAF VON PLATEN
Top: ANN-SOFIE
Trousers: HUMANA Sandals: PRADA
Shirt: ISABELLE LARSSON KNOBEL
Coat: ACNE STUDIOS
Leather shirt & trousers: SPORTMAX
Print shirt: HUMAN
Shoes: VINTAGE NIKE
Earrings: PRADA
Top: HUMANA Belt: VINTAGE CALVIN KLEIN
Dress & trousers: ACNE STUIDOS Boots: HUMANA
Jacket: ANN-SOFIE
T-shirt: VINTAGE VERSACE
Dress: CARL GUSTAF VON PLATEN Belt: HUMANA
BLACK ATELIER Shoes: CONVERSE hair: JOE-YVES @MIKAS LOOKS make-up: JOSEFINA ZARMEN @ LINKDETAILS photography assitants: PATRICK SCHONBERG & ROBIN BERGLUND stylist assitant: ULRIKA LINDQVIST model: LINNEA T @ NISCH MANAGEMENT SARA E @ STOCKHOLMSGRUPPEN
Dresss:
ADVANCED LESSONS IN STYLE
WORDS: CHRIS CHASSEAUD
STREETS meets photographer and blogger Ari Seth Cohen as he launches the second volume of his highly influential images of stylish older men and women.
Respecting your elders is a value encouraged in the young, something expected of us as we’re growing up. But as we age ourselves, we tend naturally to develop an appreciation of our elders’ wisdom, of their nurturing nature, and we may even learn to mirror their superior manners. In terms of style, being confident in your own skin is something we can learn from older generations, as well as the knowledge of what works and what doesn’t for us as individuals.
Perhaps the confidence and flamboyance some older people exhibit be explained by the fact that many grew up in a different age, when ‘style’ was something more personal
and self-defined. Nowadays, however, we are subjected to a host of visual influences through magazines, blogs and social media as well as advertising and marketing. These sources have, usually borrowed inspiration from other times and places - most likely the timeless qualities of our elder peers.
Despite the busyness of our digital landscape, it is very likely you will recognise images of numerous older individuals such as Iris Apfel, Jacky O’Shaughnessy and Daphne Selfe for their natural appeal and captivating qualities. These ladies - and others like them - have an instinctive style that has developed due to an innate knowledge of what works for
them, evolving into a unique form of self-expression.
Photographer and blogger Ari Seth Cohen has been capturing such elegantly dressed elderly men and women in New York for eight years on his blog Advanced Style. As well as photographing them, Cohen takes the time to engage in conversation with his subjects, discovering more about them and their lives. Some have been featured numerous times, allowing for a better insight into their unique style and characteristics. It’s refreshing to see these wonderful individuals who have lived, as you imagine, full and colourful lives, dressed elegantly throughout.
We are so inundated with media and content that I think what really attracts people is authenticity. “ “
These new fashion icons might not be up-to-date with the current trends that circulate season upon season, but rather remain timeless as they express themselves in an enviably classy manner. “ “
What got you first interested in photographing and documenting older people?
I have been documenting the style of older women ever since I was a little boy. I made my first book of drawings of “fancy ladies” at the age of 8. My grandmother was my best friend and when she passed away I was filled with a profound sense of loss. Moving to New York from California I started to meet so many wonderful older people who reminded me of her spirit. I noticed that lifestyle and fashion media totally ignored older people and I wanted to share the people who inspired me with the world.
Why do you think Advanced Style garnered the interest it received?
We are so inundated with media and content that I think what really attracts people is authenticity. The world of anti-ageing and the model of advertising based on preying upon insecurities and the fear of growing old is becoming outdated. The subjects I photograph give a hopeful view of a future filled with vitality and great style.
Do you think Advanced Style has inspired more older people to embrace their own unique style more?
I hope so, at least to not be afraid of dressing up and to feel good about themselves and the
possibilities that lay ahead. One woman told me that after she gave her 104-year-old grandmother my book, she began to notice a lot more florals and patterns around the house!
Has it potentially changed the perception of older people and led to more respect and appreciation that they can also be fashion icons in their own right?
Yes, as fashion and lifestyle icons. So many of them have hugely popular Instagram accounts now that influence people of all ages to live more creatively.
H ow did Advanced Style evolve into the books and a documentary film?
Very organically. I started taking pictures as a personal project and a way to connect to my grandmother again. I started the blog in 2008 and a few months later I was approached to do a book. The film came about in a similar fashion. My friend Lina and I were making videos of the women for YouTube. We started with closet interviews and then started to go deeper into their lives. Four hundred hours of footage later and we realised that we should try and make a film.
Tell us a little about the latest book. This book is a compilation of my work since 2012. They are pictures of men and women from all over the
world and twenty-two essays from the subjects of the books on ageing, vitality and personal histories.
You manage to get a lot of information from your subjects you shoot - do you form friendships with them?
Yes, looking at my phone book, most of my friends are in their 70’s, 80’s, and 90’s!
These new fashion icons might not be up-todate with the current trends that circulate season upon season, but rather remain timeless as they express themselves in an enviably classy manner. They do, however, deserve to be respected and appreciated for their unbiased, natural and impassive approach to dressing. These new stylish elder citizens are rapidly becoming the muses of peers and younger generations alike, and rightly so. Their unique take on fashion is refreshing and its no surprise that we now see more grey haired or older models as a response to this.
Ari Seth Cohen’s new book Advanced Style: Older and Wiser is available now, published by PowerHouse Books.
All images used with express permission by Ari Seth Cohen.
KISSED LIKE A SPANISH ROSE
stylists: ROXANNE MORRIS, DANIELA PERALTA, KIRSTY WALKER, FRANCESCA NICOLAI, PAMELA IDSTROM
photographer: ALESSANDRO RAIMONDO
I do not love you as if you were salt-rose, or topaz, or the arrow of carnations the fire shoots off.
Hat: & OTHER STORIES, Jacket : AQAQ, Jumpsuit : ZYANYA KEIZER, Shoes : NIKE
I love you as certain dark things are to be loved, in secret, between the shadow and the soul.
Top: DANIELLE ROMERIL, Dress: THREE FLOOR
I love you as the plant that never blooms but carries in itself the light of hidden flowers;
Sweatshirt: THREE FLOOR, Top: THREE FLOOR, Trousers: ZYANYA KEIZER, Shoes: STYLISTS OWN
thanks to your love a certain solid fragrance, risen from the earth, lives darkly in my body.
Dress: AQAQ, Belt: FLEET ILYA, Skirt: AQAQ, Shoes: ZYANYA KEIZER
I love you without knowing how, or when, or from where. I love you straightforwardly, without complexities or pride;
Bralette: E.L.F. ZHOU LONDON
so I love you because I know no other way than this: where I does not exist, nor you,
Bodysuit: ROBERT KALINKIN
so close that your hand on my chest is my hand, so close that your eyes close as I fall asleep.
Hair and Make Up: EVAN HUANG
Model: HAZEL TOWNSEND AT STORM MODELS Poem by Pablo Neruda, Sonnet XXXIV
Jumpsuit: AQAQ, Leather Bow at neck: STYLISTS OWN, Belt: STYLIST OWN Ring: STYLIST OWN, Shoes: KICKERS X DANIELLE ROMERIL
in
bloom full
photographer: DANIEL NADEL
stylist: STEPH WILSON
Jumper: STELLA MCCARTNEY Jacket: MALENE ODDERSHEDE BACH Fringed jacket: TIM RYAN
Hat: NOEL STEWART FOR HOUSE OF HOLLAND
Body: ACNE STUDIOS
Coat: STELLA MCCARTNEY
Jewellery: MONICA VINADER
Polo neck: PREEN LINE
Polo shirt: SANDRO Jacket: RAG AND BONE Leggings: PASKAL
Top: STELLA MCCARTNEY Jacket: PREEN LINE
Trousers: KATIE EARY
Boots: DORATEYMUR
Polo shirt: SANDRO Jacket: KATIE EARY
Skirt: TIM RYAN Boots: HOUSE OF HOLLAND
Jumper: STELLA MCCARTNEY
Jacket: MALENE ODDERSHEDE BACH
Fringed jacket: TIM RYAN
Hoodie: CHAMPION Jacket: ACNE STUDIOS Dress: FYODOR GOLAN Boots: EMILIO DE LA MORENA
Body: ACNE STUDIOS
Leather Jacket: TIBI
Trousers: MALENE ODDERSHEDE BACH Boots: CHIARA FERRAGNI
Jacket & vest: TODD LYNN
Dress: MAJE
Boots: EMILIO DE LA MORENA
Make-up: LOU BOX USING CHANEL
Hair: AKIKO KAWASAKI USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE
Digital operator & photo assistant: MATTEO MACRI
Model: ELENA @ IMG Fashion assisant: STEPH KELLY
Sunglasses: KAREN WALKER
Knitted dres: MALENE ODDERSHEDE BACH
Shirt: THEORY
Skirt: CHRISTOPHER KANE Bag: ELENA GHISELLENI
bouquet
photographer: GREG SORENSEN
stylist: URSULA LAKE
Jacket: PAUL SMITH
Sunglasses: MIU MIU
Coat: CHANEL Hat: CHANEL Handbag: MARNI
Dress: HUGO BOSS Swimcap: STYLISTS OWN
Hat: D SQUARED Dress: MAXMARA
Dress : FENDI
Top: PAUL SMITH Sunglasses: MICHAEL KORS
Dress: LANVIN Swimcap: STYLISTS OWN
Make-up-artist:
AND MAKE UP FOREVER
KENNETH SOH USING BAKEL SKINCARE
Hair: BJORN KRISCHKER @ FRANK USING REVLON PROFESSIONAL
Model: CLARICE @ NEXT
Fashion assistant: STEPHANIE KELLY
Dress : AWAKE Earrings: DSQUARED
what’s the story morning glory?
photographer: PAOLA VIVAS
stylist: SIMONA CEPELIAUSKAITE
Top: CELINE Trousers: GANNI
Dress: JOSEPH
Bra: WOLDORF Skirt: JOSEPH Choker: STYLIST OWN
Dress: ELLERY
Shoes: CELINE
Bra: BASERANGE Choker: STYLIST OWN
Make up: JESS WHITBREAD USING MAKE UP FOREVER @ PAM LONDON
Hair: DANILO BRANDIMARTE USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE
Model: DASHA @ MILK
Photographer assistant: ALEX ROD
JOHNNY COCA
HANDBAGS AT DAWNTHE FUTURE OF MULBERRY
WORDS: CHRIS CHASSEAUD
STREETS writer Chris Chasseaud contemplates the road ahead for British brand Mulberry, with designer Johnny Coca behind the wheel.
by
photograph
David Bailey
There has recently been a merry-go-round of Creative Directors at some the the world's largest fashion houses. The pressure to deliver is high. Nowadays the route to success is measured by how good your handbags are: accessories is big business.
No pressure then for Johnny Coca, the Spanish ex-Celine accessories designer tasked with turning around the fortunes of British heritage brand Mulberry. Put into perspective, a few years ago Mulberry were languishing after a fairly large overhaul of the brand that failed miserably. Its image from a respected British brand alongside the likes of Burberry started to take a hefty tumble. After a disastrous push upmarket in 2012 led by Bruno Guillon, a chief executive who arrived from Hermès, a decision was made to increase prices while cutting out wholesalers and introduce new flagship stores. This divided the brand’s core customer base, and in particular, the UK market which accounts for a large majority of profits.
Mulberry’s signature was lost in a sea of murky brand positioning that didn’t resonate with it’s customers. The then creative director, Emma Hill, quit in 2013 as sales fell which subsequently led to Mr. Guillon parting the company with several profit warnings being issued.
After what could only be described as some soul searching these past couple of years, the brand has come to a point realising what they needed to focus on, which was their leather goods and accessories. Hence, the appointment of a proven accessories designer in the shape of Johnny Coca who had the confidence to take on such a task as reviving an unfortunate fallen heritage brand.
Since his appointment, Coca has already gone about and made bold statements such as reworking the Mulberry logo and even going so far as revamping their iconic Bayswater bag. He went about studying Mulberry’s history delving into archives and visiting their Somerset factories The
Johnny in studio
Rookery and The Willows. Absorbing those environments as well as influences from the brand’s original 70’s aesthetics, Coca created a logo using a typeface that the brand used during the 70’s.
Bringing the brand right up-to-date, digital platforms have been embraced with various social media channels being used to showcase previews of new collections. Herding that disillusioned customer as well as adopting a new fan base, with a combined strategy of bringing prices down to more affordable ones, has brought Mulberry into a far better position than a few years ago with Coca well-poised to unleash his creative talents. He’s cited Britain’s punk and rock scenes as well as weekends in the country, coupled with traditional floral prints as inspirations for his up-and-coming work.
It’s not yet clear whether Coca’s influence will be beneficial to the brand in the long term – fashion is seasonal of course and it takes a while for
influences to be felt. He first needs to reinvigorate the imagination in buyers and customers alike. You can, however, already sense an air of optimism within the brand and feel a revived energy that Coca has brought. Understanding the power and influence of an ‘it bag’ and other accessories surrounding it, Mulberry are hedging their bets for Coca to bring them back to their glory days. With the anticipation of his AW16 collection featuring a classic palette and silhouettes, occasionally broken up by flashes of bright colour, and signature military finishing and hardware inspired by a very British punk attitude.
It might not be groundbreaking work, but Coca is going to task on a job to revive a British heritage brand that was in desperate need of an injection of creative direction. Already, his focused approach is bringing a new spirit to brand.
The Bayswater Bag
Take m e dEruoyot en
photographer: JACK BRIDGLAND
stylists: CRISTIAN BURBANO & TAHNEE MITRA
Jacket: SAINT LAURENT Shirt: GUCCI AT MR PORTER
Liviu wears , Shirt: RAF SIMONS AT MR PORTER, Jacket: JIL SANDER AT MR PORTER
Grace wears , Sunglasses: GENERAL EYEWEAR, Coat: 2NDDAY
Liviu wears: Jacket: SAINT LAURENT, Shirt: GUCCI , Jeans: GUCCI, Shoes: MR HARE
Grace wears: Play suit: ARAKS, Top: CHIN MEN’S, Coat: CHIN MEN’S Trousers: BLK DNM, Shoes: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Liviu wears
Sweater: RAF SIMONS
Trousers: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Grace wears
Collar: XANDER ZHOU
Shirt: ROKIT VINTAGE
Corset: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL
Brooch: STYLIST’S OWN
Dress: CHRISTOPHER SHANNO n
Trousers: ACNE STUDIOS
Shoes: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Liviu wears, Jacket: HOUSE OF HOLLAND , Top: CHRISTOPHER KANE , Rings: STYLIST’S OWN
Liviu wears, Jacket: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD , Top: ACNE STUDIOS, Trousers: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Grace wears, Sunglasses: GENERAL EYEWEAR , Top: BLK DNM , Jacket: MATTHEW MILLER
Liviu wears, Jacket: JIL SANDER , Shirt: RAF SIMMONS , Jeans: BALENCIAGA
Make Up and Grooming: SERGIO ALVAREZ USING MAC COSMETICS AND TONI&GUY
Stylist Assistants: DAPHNE KYRIAZIDIS AND LUCREZIA D’AQUARONE
Models: LIVIU SCORTANU @ IMG LONDON
GRACE TOMLINSON @ STORM GRACE (GRACE CASTED BY IRENE MANICONE)
Labyrinth
photographer: AYLEN TORRES
stylist: KRISTOFJ VON STRASS
shirt and jacket: TIGER OF SWEDEN trousers: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MAN
Shirt: HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
Jacket: MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Trousers: SANKUANZ
Top and scarf: ISSEY MIYAKE MEN Coat: SANDRO
Trousers: XANDER ZHOU Shoes: CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FOR E.TAUTZ
Shirt: MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Scarf and shorts: ISSEY MIYAKE MEN
Top: XANDER ZHOU
shirt: HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE jacket: MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
hair stylist: OLIVER DAW @ FRANK AGENCY make up artist: GIGI HAMMOND @ UNTITLED ARTISTS models: LEWIS TAYLOR @MODELS1
HARRY WILLIAMS @NEXT MODELS
stylist assistants: VICKY WOOD, NEREA UGARTE AND LAURA REY BARCELLI.
shirt: MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN suit jacket & trousers: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM vintage tie: CHRISTIAN DIOR MONSIEUR vintage platform shoes: ROKIT
wallflower
photographer: CHLOE MALLETT
stylist: URSULA LAKE
Glasses: OLIVERS PEOPLE
Earrings: MAWI Jacket: DIESEL BACK Dress: ANDREW GN
Socks: TOPSHOP
Trainers: JEROME DREYFUS
Earrings: LULU FROST
Jacket: MARCO DI VINENZO
Blouse: GUCCI
Skirt : MARCO DI VINENZO
Shoes: GIANVITO ROSSI
CARLA WEARS:
Sunglasses: OLIVERS PEOPLE
Sweater: STELLA MCCARTNEY
Jeans: MARC JACOBS @ HARRODS
Trainers: CONVERSE
Glasses: PRADA
Earrings: MAWI
Sweater: COACH
Blouse: COACH
Skirt: COACH
Bag: ANDREW GN
Socks: TOPSHOP
Shoes: SOPHIA WEBSTER
CARLA WEARS: Shirt: STELLA MCCARTNEY
Dunagrees: H&M
Trainers: CONVERSE
Earrings: MAWI Shirt: GUCCI
Skirt: GUCCI
Bag: EDIE PARKER Shoes: GIANVITO ROSSI
Glasses: CALVIN KLEIN
Earrings: GUCCI @ MATCHES
Top: ROBERTO CAVALLI Bottoms: ROBERTO CAVALLI
Glasses: OLIVERS PEOPLE
Earrings: MAWI
Jumpsuit: HOUSE OF HOLLAND
Shirt: ISABEL MARANT
Socks: TOPSHOP
Shoes: CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
CARLA WEARS
Jacket: STELLA MCCARTNEY
Jeans: MARC JACOBS
Sandals: H&M
Hair: CHRIS SWEENEY USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE
Make-up: SONIA DEVENEY @ ONE REPRESENTS USING M.A.C COSMETICS
Model: PATRICIJA ZILINSKAITE @ PREMIER, CARLA (CHILD MODEL)
hey petaL!
photographer: JON GORRIGAN
stylist: STEPH WILSON
Top: KATIE EARY Dress: TORY BIRCH
Trousers : TOGA
Mules: REJINA PYO & YUUL YIE
Roll-neck: TEATUM JONES
Top & skirt: STELLA MCCARTNEY
Trousers: ATEA
Mules: DORATEYMUR
RINGS:
ring & signet ring: ALLISON BRYAN
Onyx ring & silver croc ring: KASUN Flat ring & diamond ring: KATTRI
Blouse (WORN UNDERNEATH): KATIE EARY
Dress: TEATUM JONES
Rings: AS BEFORE
Top: TEATUM JONES Dress: TORY BIRCH
Robe: KATIE EARY
Shirt dress: BORA ASKU
Striped top: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Trousers: HAIZHEN WANG
Shoes: REJINA PYO & YUUL YIE
Jacket: FAUSTINE STEINMETZ Dress: VILSHENKO shirt (worn underneath): ACNE STUDIOS Mules: DORATEYMUR Rings: AS BEFORE
Blouse & dress: SELF PORTRAIT
Shirt: PALMER HARDING
Slip-dress : KATIE EARIE
Trousers: MORPHO + LUNA
Loafers: REJINA PYO & YUUL YIE
Slim silver ring & silver signet ring: ALLISON BRYAN
Onyx ring & silver croc ring: KASUN
Flat ring & diamond ring: KATTRI
Top: J&M DAVIDSON Shirt dress: REJINA PYO
Top & trousers: MARKUS LUPFER Rings: AS BEFORE
Top: PASKAL Shirt dress: PALMER HARDING
Trousers & loafers: STEPHEN TAI
Make-up: KENNETH SOH @ FRANK AGENCY USING OM
SKINCARE & NARS
Hair: AKIKO KAWASAKI USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE
Model: AMBA BAKER @ THE HIVE
Top: KATIE EARY Dress: TORY BIRCH
Trousers: TOGA Rings: AS BEFORE
photographer: JENNY BROUGH
stylist: KRISTOFJ VON STRASS
Dress: MARKUS LUPFER Turtleneck & vest : BEYOND RETRO
Cowboy hat: STETSON Shirt: THEORY
Tie: WESTERN SPIRIT
Jacket: THE FOLD
Trousers: EUDON CHOI
Ring: HALO
Shirt: ACNE STUDIOS
Jacket: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Lingerie Pants: BEYOND RETRO
Shoes: PENELOPE CHILVERS FOR MOLLY GODDARD
Bra top: ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Vest: ACNE STUDIOS
Jeans: CITIZENS OF HUMANITY
Vintage scarf and belt: ROKIT
Top: EMPORIO ARMANI Skirt: BLITZ
Dress: PASKAL
Vintage blouse: BEYOND RETRO Belt: WILD WILD WESTERN WEAR
Shirt: Acne Studios Neck scarf: EMPORIO ARMANI
Dress: TO BE ADORED
Socks: TYPICAL FREAKS
Boots: WILD WILD WESTERN WEAR
Set designer: SADIE HAQUE FOR ALUN DAVIES STUDIO
MUA: MAKE UP BY LIZ MARTINS AT EIGHTEEN MANAGEMENT USING NARS COSMETICS
Hair: HAIR BY BRADY LEA AT STELLA CREATIVE ARTISTS USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE
Nails: CHERRIE SNOW @ EIGHTEEN MANAGEMENT USING ESSIE
Model: JULIA CAMPBELL- GILLIES @ TESS
Producer: LUCY SARAH PRODUCTIONS
Lighting assistant: MORGAN MURPHY
Stylist’s assistant: EVA MARIA SAUNTER, ZOE GUINGUENE
Retoucher: MONICA CHAMORRO
Thanks to: 123 LIGHTING AND WHITE RABBIT
TRUE GRIT
WORDS: COLIN CHAPMAN
Features Editor Colin Chapman interviews Samantha McCoach, creative director of Le Kilt, the chic womenswear brand which provided edge to Kate Middleton’s take on Scottish style but generally demonstrates the power of understatement
Samantha McCoach
FEATURES
We hear a lot about Scottish grittiness: the guttural accent, those sturdy tenement buildings, the visceral fiction of Irvine Welsh, but all-too-rarely about Scottish chic. Which is a mistake: from the wellto-do streets of Edinburgh to the too-cool-for-Art-School vibe of Glasgow, Scotland has style with thistles on. The suavity of Edinburgh native Patrick Grant and the diverse explorations of colour and pattern by designers Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and Holly Fulton, should surely be evidence enough that Scottish design is here and is consistently strong.
Cut to Kate Middleton arriving in Scotland by helicopter, as she descends the steps of the aircraft she is seen to be wearing a kilt but not just any kilt, this one is by premium fashion brand Le Kilt. For creative director of the label, Samantha McCoach, this relatively unexpected event caused a dramatic spike in media communications about her already-celebrated brand. “It was mental”, she says, “our email went crazy with journalists wanting to know the details of exactly what she was wearing.”
“At the time I didn’t have any idea, but I’d kind of guessed. We’d sent her some bits to try on. Next I heard, it was ‘the princess is landing in forty minutes and she’s wearing one of your kilts’. It was a PR’s dream!”
In person, McCoach is the epitome of subtle chic with her sleek, shiny hair and is wearing a combination of black denim and a limited edition Bella Freud intarsia sweater.
How did she get into fashion? I ask, “I always loved shopping” she says, “I loved dressing up in Tammy Girl, I’d spend hours in Tammy Girl. I loved shopping and I loved clothes.” This passion for the retail highlife runs in the family it seems, “Mum has worked on the makeup counter all of my life” she adds.
Another source of familial inspiration was her granny.
“My biggest regret is not spending more time with the most amazing woman in the world,” says McCoach, “she made clothes for me since I was five years old.” Wistful for a moment, McCoach reminisces about “staying at my granny’s and learning to knit, she made kilts… she made hats…”
“Granny, (my mums mum), grew up in Italy but met a Scotsman and stayed in Scotland. She was helping a friend who was making pleats for kilts and ended up doing it in house full time. She made all my mum’s clothes. But it wasn’t until I went to college that I spent so much time with her.”
Listening to McCoach talk about her grandmother, it’s clear that here was a real role model: “She never complains. Never makes a fuss. Relies on no one and has the most amazing taste. My granny used to have a flat in central town [Edinburgh]. She’s the most understated woman I’ve ever met; she’s elegant but not showy.”
Coming from the (now) creative director of her own fashion brand, McCoach’s early ambitions sound quite humble, if practical, “I was really dyslexic, I studied fashion because I wanted to work in an office” she explains. But creativity was clearly always there, “I was always drawing, and somehow I passed my English Higher and went to Art College.”
The ‘Art College’ in question was Edinburgh School of Art and after emerging with a BA in fashion (womenswear), the graduate McCoach headed to London to continue studying at The Royal College of Art for an MA in womenswear. Where Granny’s influence continued to
Le Kilt AW16 Collection
I don’t agree with the idea that the more elaborate it is, the better designed it is, I’m more for the simplicity of Margaret Howell say, or APC. “
”
make its mark “she came to my graduation at the RCA, and she also came to help me with my graduate collection, coming into to college every day,” says McCoach proudly.
Following this, McCoach spent five years at heritage brand Fred Perry, after “pestering” them for a job. “I loved it” she enthuses, “I learned so much. As a brand they have a toe in the future but it has so much heritage. It’s nothing like high street brands copying high end. I loved the fact of not reinventing the wheel. It was about the details, not about the show. I wear those kinds of things every day.”
Despite the gender fluid implications of a womenswear graduate working at a label with a reputation for classic menswear, McCoach is quick to shrug off the cliché that androgyny is so straightforward, “unisex - I hate that word. I wear a lot of men’s clothes but they don’t fit. It’s all about construction and sizing. “
“Le Kilt began as a hobby” she continues, “I was bored at work, I wanted to do more stuff. I was frustrated; I wanted a finger in every pie.”
In the end it came down to “I really don’t want to leave but I can’t do both.”
“I’ve never wanted to design a dress for the Met Gala, she reasons, “I don’t agree with the idea that the more elaborate it is, the better designed it is, I’m more for the simplicity of Margaret Howell say, or APC.”
Inevitably for a designer, McCoach is busy, right now there’s “the precollection for June. I’m putting in a few extra pieces for summer. The there’s production for Autumn/Winter. I’m up to Scotland a lot, toing and froing.”
Earlier this year, Le Kilt designed a range for ASOS, “it came about a while ago, people don’t always understand fashion but you get ASOS through the door. It was so much fun. It was quite nice to do something more girly, a bit different. It’s a skirt but still androgynous.” Possibly harking back to her early love of Tammy Girl, McCoach shows genuine enthusiasm for reaching this impressionable audience, “I love the idea of having that range, of appealing to younger customers. Le Kilt is quite a versatile brand that could appeal to everyone, up to the Queen!”
After mention of such a female icon, I feel I have to apologise for my next question, a lazy fashion journalist standby, but I’m genuinely keen to know who she’d like to see wearing her clothes, Royalty excepted: “Victoria Beckham!” she responds quickly, “I wanted to be Victoria Beckham when I was growing up!” “Penny Martin? [Editorin-chief of The Gentlewoman] - from one extreme to the other!”
Celebrity endorsement of Le Kilt is not, it seems limited to the Royal Family, nor is it the stuff of dreams, Shirley Manson, the iconic Scottish singer of the band Garbage, has recently placed an order. This appreciation for the brand from those on high is not without good reason: “Everything about Le Kilt is about quality”, McCoach says proudly. “All the kilts are made in Scotland. All the knitwear is from Scotland. The shirts and coats are made in London. George Cox collaborated on the crepe shoes this season, and that will continue.”
“I’m in it for the long haul!” she declares, with a determination her
Sweet
Dhalia
photographer: CAMERON MCNEE
stylist: INDIGO GOSS
Earrings: MAWI Dress: VINTAGE ACNE
Coat: PASCAL
Jumpsuit: ORLA KIELY
Boots: STYLIST OWN
Earrings: MAWI Dress: 2NDDAY Boots: CHIARA FERRAGNI
Sunglasses: MIU MIU Jacket: 2NDDAY Shirt: JUST CAVALLI
Jacket: CITIZENS OF HUMANITY Jumpsuit: MIH
Jacket: 2NDDAY Necklace: MAWI
Necklace: MAWI
Top: I RIS & INK FROM WWW. THEOUTNET.COM
Trousers: STYLIST OWN Shoes: PETER JENSEN
Dress: REJINA PYO
Model: EMILY MEULEMAN @ ELITE MODELS Hair: BJØRN KRISCHKER @ FRANK AGENCY USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE Make Up and Nails: ADELE SANDERSON @ SOHO MANAGEMENT USING MAC COSMETICS AND SOIGNE
Casting Director: SARAH BUNTER @ BUNTER CASTING
Photography Assistant: ANDRAS BARTOK
Styling Assistant: PLUM O’KEEFFE
Jacket: BLK DNM Dress: PALMER//HARDING Ring: MAWI
PHOEBE DAHL
STRIKE THAT! REVERSE IT!
WORDS: COLIN CHAPMAN
STYLIST: STEPH WILSON
PHOTOGRAPHER: DAVID TITLOW
STREETS Features Editor Colin Chapman talks to the LA based founder of Faircloth & Supply about the power of self-belief and the joy of travel.
Dress: REJINA PYO
Jacket: SANDRO
Shoes: RAG & BONE
Croc ring & Vampire Ring: KASUN
Gold & Silver Signet Rings: ALLISON BRYAN
Fine gold Ring: MARIA BLACK
Small & large pendant Necklace: ALLISON BRYAN
As the granddaughter of legendary author Roald Dahl, it’s perhaps not so surprising that Phoebe Dahl has generation Instagram under her spell, using this contemporary storytelling medium to communicate and inspire, especially in her role as founder of ethical clothing brand Faircloth & Supply. With a school uniform for a Nepalese girl being donated for every garment purchased, the fashion project is grounded in real change, enabling said girl to be able to attend school and get an education. A lifelong traveller, Phoebe was, naturally, on the hoof when we caught up with her, but took time out to talk about her nomadic existence, her ambitions for the clothing line and the responsibility of influencing young minds.
Hi Phoebe, where are you today and what are you up to?
I am actually in New Orleans at the moment. This is one of my favourite cities, it’s so beautiful here! There is such a magical energy in this city. It never fails to inspire creativity in me. It feels like an undiscovered city where cats roam the streets, remnants of Mardi Gras beads sparkle in the trees, and jazz oozes out of all the street corners. I am here with all of my best friends from college; we do an annual reunion here. After this I head to New York for a couple days for business meetings, but first I’m going to enjoy the most beautiful city in the world.
As someone who travels so frequently, what comforts do you depend on when traveling between locations?
I am so fortunate to have the most wonderful friends around the world. I have been traveling since I was a young kid and feel so grateful to have friends I would consider family sprinkled around the world, so when I travel I never feel alone or out of place, and I love getting the opportunity to catch up with all these amazing people I’ve met along the way. Oh and FOOD - I find comfort in food. If I’m well fed I’m a happy girl!
What differences do you appreciate about the three cities you spend most time in: LA, London and New York?
Well Los Angeles is where my home, office and family are. LA is usually
where I spend my time hibernating and nourishing myself. It’s the only time I get to have an actual routine, so I load up on sleep, exercise and green juices (HA I’ve really become an LA cliché!). I’m lucky that I have such an amazing home to come back to filled with friends and animals. New York is just magic; I’m there about once a month and have such a close group of friends there so it really feels like my second home. It has an energy about it that is just mesmerizing. I’ve been visiting London since I was a little girl and it’s part of my blood and my heritage so it has a very nostalgic feeling there for me. Everyone in London is just so cool and I love walking around the streets.
I’m so lucky to be able to spend time in all three of these amazing cities!
What are your next goals with Faircloth & Supply? Do you have specific targets in mind that you’d like to achieve?
The summer ‘16 collection is launching in the next couple weeks, which is so exciting! We have also rebranded Faircloth to make it a little edgier and a more well rounded, all-inclusive brand. I’m super excited about launching linen bedding. It’s something I’ve always wanted to do. My bed is the best place in the entire world and it wouldn’t be half as good if it didn’t have my custom-made linen bedding on it.
I’m also doing a children’s line collab with a good friend of mine that should launch late summer.
Goals for this year - I’d like to double the amount of uniforms that we donated last year which is a very ambitious goal but totally doable :)
How does the design process work with the collection?
What’s your involvement?
I am fully involved in every part of the process [Dahl studied at The San Francisco Fashion Institute and London College of Fashion]. I carry around a sketchbook that I’m always adding designs to. From there, I work closely with a pattern maker to perfect each piece - and we go through first, second and sometimes even third samples until the details of the design are perfect. I am fully involved in every aspect of the company, I oversee everything - it’s my baby :)
Dress: ZIMMERMAN
Jacket: SANDRO
Trousers : ARIES
Shoes: RAG & BONE
Jewellery: BEFORE
Dress: TIBI Jacket: RAG & BONE
Jewellery: AS BEFORE
What inspired you specifically about Nepal to base a project there?
Nepal and most surrounding countries experience a lot of gender oppression. I was looking for an organization that was empowering women and girls through education, specifically a local grassroots organization which I could be very involved in, as opposed to just donating, I wanted to really be immersed and a part of the solution. Nepal has a very high trafficking rate as it borders India. When I visited Nepal I fell in love with the country and the people, all the children I met became like my own and I really felt that I am lucky enough to be a woman with a voice; therefore I must become theirs to the rest of the world - that is my purpose.
How does your feminism manifest itself in your day-to-day life?
I’m doing this new thing where I’m trying not to say sorry as often. I notice myself apologising for just being in my space and when I should be saying excuse me. It’s a bad habit that we as women pick up and I’m trying to break it!
Are there specific challenges to being a feminist in the fashion industry?
Not really to be honest, or I’m sure there are but I can only talk from my experience and I haven’t really experienced anything. I do also work with with an all-female team so that might have something to do with it!
Can we talk about Instagram? You have loads of followers, what do you think are the strengths of it as a medium? And the downsides?
I actually think it’s a great platform for me to be able to share and educate my followers about gender equality and the importance of educating girls. I love my fans and followers so much, they often write to me letting me know how much I’ve inspired them and that is unbelievably humbling. Knowing that I’ve inspired young girls to feel more comfortable with themselves, or to believe in themselves and have confidence in their future is equally as important to me as sponsoring a girl in Nepal - its another tier in female empowerment. I want all young girls to know that their life can be anything they want it to be but it all starts within and with self-love.
If you could inspire one change in others what would it be?
Oh man, just one? That’s hard! How about two? Compassion and empathy - if everyone could have more compassion and empathy for one another the world would be a better place. People spend too much time thinking about themselves and themselves only and don’t stop to connect with others or stop to ask “how are you?” and really listen to the answer.
Photographer: DAVID TITLOW @ ONE REPRESENTS Stylist: STEPH WILSON @ ONE REPRESENTS Make-up: SONIA DEVENEY @ ONE REPRESENTS USING M.A.C COSMETICS
Hair: BJØRN KRISCHKER @ FRANK AGENCY USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE
Stylist Assistant: NATALIE WILKINS
photographer: LUKASZ SUCHORAB
stylist: YUN NAM HO
dress: ALICE LEE
top: SHAO YEN trousers: SYDNEY DAVIES
dress: MARTINE JARLGAARD LONDON trousers: GAYEON LEE
shirt: APU JAN
trousers: YUZZO LONDON
skirt (worn as top): SHAO YEN trousers: YUZZO LONDON boots: DORATEYMUR
Sunglasses: GUCCI
Top: GAYEON LEE
jacket: ALICE LEE skirt: APU JAN shoes: JIMMY CHOO
HAIR: DELPHINE BONNET
MAKE-UP: VIRGINIA BERTOLANI USING M.A.C PRO MODEL: ALICIA BURKE @ MODELS 1
NARCISSUS NARCISSUS
photographer: NICK THOMPSON
stylist: TZARKUSI
Dress: TOGA
Bra: I.D. SARRIERI Trousers: MORECCO
top: 1205 shirt: TOGA
Bra: I.D. SARRIERI Skirt: 1205
BIANCA
@ CAMILLA LOWTHER MANAGEMNT make-up: MARTINA LATTANZI @ ONE REPRESENTS manicurist : TINU BELLO @ ONE REPRESENTS set design: BRYONY EDWARDS photography assistant: EMILY ROSE model: GEM
@ IMG WORDWIDE
Dress: MORECCO
hair:
TUOVI
REFOUFI
NO BLUSHING ROSE
WORDS: EMMA PULBROOK
Despite having an album called Debutante, pop artist FEMME, AKA Laura Bettinson, is no blushing rose, in fact, as STREETS writer Emma Pulbrook discovered; she’s the real 2016 deal.
dress worn under: APUJAN top and skirt: ISSEY MIYAKE shoes: AMELIE PICHARD
vintage earrings: ROKIT
shirt and trousers and boots: PAUL & JOE coat: FLEAMADONNA
vintage earrings: ROKIT
Refreshingly genuine, its incredible to note that behind Laura Bettinson’s no-fuss English sass is a talented self-made pop artist with the kind of motivation few could rival. Femme is all her own creation. Working independently from the mundane world and formulae of big labels, everything from the writing, recording and production to the visuals, is an amalgamation of Laura’s influences packaged into dancefloor-ready, addictive electro pop.
How did Femme come about?
I’ve been writing my own songs since I was about sixteen, but I’ve always been a kid that sang.
I moved to London and was doing gigs, taking my piano on the Tube, but I quickly realized I couldn’t cart a big piano around with me, that’s when I started working with electronics and producing my own stuff. Initially I was on a project called Dimbleby & Capper while at Goldsmiths Uni. It was bit more leftfield than Femme.
After that I was in Ultraista, (with Nigel Godrich, and Joey Waronker) for two years. Off the back of that I started Femme.
It’s really impressive to see artists creating everything, themselves. Is it satisfying having that complete control?
It is satisfying, at the same time I didn’t ever really intend on having complete control of everything, but I enjoy all the different aspects of what it takes to be an artist in the music industry.
My biggest influences are big visual pop artists: Madonna, Prince, Michael Jackson, even Cyndi Lauper to an extent, all larger than life characters when it comes their pop star personas.
The visual side of the project is, for me, despite being a music lover, always equal in some parts to the music. It’s what Pop’s all about, creating this big overgrown fantasy.
I’ve always had an interest in fashion. With the video stuff I started exploring and experimenting with that. I always try to do something on my own first to get a grip on it. Luckily, the DIY style and charm suits my music.
You’ve worked a lot with fashion brands, such as Stella McCartney, Uniqlo and Adidas, tell me more about your relationship with fashion and how these collaborations came to be?
My relationship with fashion is self-styled or self-made or found, and clashing. Kind of like my music! It’s a big medley of my influences.
I take a lot of inspiration from the ‘60s Pop Art - that amazingly revolutionary time in fashion, art and music, but I always try and move it forward to a different place. I love that time and the influences but there’s no point being completely retro, otherwise it’s just kitsch and that’s not cool.
The collaborations you mentioned came about because those people approached me. My music seems to get around, now with music being so global and so accessible, I have no idea who could be listening to it.
Perhaps the accessibility of art was why the ‘60s was such a revolutionary time? Do you think there’s a parallel to today with art and fashion becoming less elitist?
That’s the nice thing about today, it’s a very fun time to be an emerging DIY artist like myself because your audience is much wider and you can reach the four corners of the globe.
At the same time it can be tricky because you might have a lot of fans but they’ll be separated all over the world and there might only be a few people in each city.
So tell be about your debut album Debutante?
I’ll go get the vinyl and show you! I’m really happy with it. Because I decided to do the artwork myself, like the layout and all that stuff and the record is white. And it sounds good too thank God!
Yeah, the album, it came about because I started doing singles. The idea was to build a little buzz, and find out who my fans were. The industry is changing so rapidly, there’s no right or wrong of doing anything at the minute. If you want to self-release stuff you can, and it scan still end up on Radio One, so you can have similar opportunities to an extent.
I got to a point where I thought we’ve put out six singles, because I’m making it all myself, largely in this room, its quite prolific, so it was a natural step to make an album.
I’ve even got another seven tracks for another album, so we’ll see…
What have you got planned for the rest of the year?
I’ll probably put out something new relatively soon, you know just keep moving. If every morning I wake up and I’m still able to do this professionally its like a mini win.
Its really funny, people have started to recognize me on the street, so that’s interesting, that’s a new part of the monster I’ve created.
Your image and sound are obviously getting people’s attention, perhaps because of how well everything you do fits together?
I get really frustrated with new label acts, because it’s not cohesive. I think it can be quite confusing as a fan. You need the whole thing to work together and be consistent. I think because I’ve made all the decisions with Femme, regardless of whether you like the music and the image, you can’t say its not consistent, because it’s from one set of hands.
Like FKA Twigs, she is my kind of artist; visually everything she puts out is so complimentary to the visual. It feels quite comforting as a fan to have that from an artist, from the very beginning, the visual stuff is the continuation of something.
What motivates you the most about making music?
Being able to explore different parts of your personality, and blow them up in a way that’s only really possible with music. What I find quite fascinating is, now the album is out, its out of my world and into other peoples.
My favourite bit is to see how other people are connecting with it. Especially when this is music I largely make on my own. My relationship to music is self-exploration.
What do you think the future holds for Pop music?
People, and pop stars have bigger responsibility to speak out more, and they don’t often say anything. Actually, the general public isn’t that stupid, they don’t want straight up pop, we will lap up what we’re played, but it doesn’t have to be mundane. If riskier music was played on the radio, you’d see the effect in 20 years time of more interesting popular culture.
There’s so much going on in the underground but the mainstream just plays the same 5 artists. Across the board, in other artistic fields, I feel a change coming through, in politics as well.
I feel I’d love to see more weird stuff. I think art and pop deserves a little bit of the weird and for us all to be challenged.
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