Greater Palm Springs October 2019

Page 124

FOODIE

F

1st

BITE

A Black Belt in Sushi

J A PA N E S E - S C A N D I N A V I A N F U S I O N C U I S I N E AT I T S F I N E S T

S

WRITTEN BY: ANDREW SMITH • PHOTOGRAPHED BY: LAURA PERKINS

Sandfish Sushi & Whiskey is unlike any sushi you’ll ever experience. As one of the world’s top sushi chefs, Chef Engin Onural both respects and transcends tradition. At Sandfish, he’s incorporating his second passion— Scandinavian cuisine.

FOOD • Sandfish’s menu is an entirely unique fusion of Japanese sushi and Scandinavian culture.

“It’s a fusion entirely unique to Chef Engin,” General Manager Omar Diaz enthused. Chef Engin frequently travels, bringing back an assortment of ingredients to incorporate into his cuisine. The Scandinavian experience starts with the décor and scatters accents across the menu. There’s a traditional sushi menu for purists, but the real flair is in the signature rolls and dishes. Our tasting started with scallops on the half shell, garnished with walnuts, a yuzu vinaigrette and sea beans. The scallops were tender and nicely chilled with a sweet, lightly salted flavor, and the yuzu vinaigrette offers a light zest, while the walnuts and sea beans (actually greens, not beans) offer a crunchy and salty contrast. It’s a dish that’s light and refreshing, perfect for the desert climate. Next was the octopus carpaccio with preserved lemon, citron oil, herb oil, chives, microgreens and sesame seeds. The octopus (from Thailand) has a fresh, clean taste with a hint of sea salt. The chives and microgreens lend a nice touch of spice and a crisp texture. Chef Engin is a big advocate for his microgreens. “They’re my most expensive ingredient, intensely flavored and highly nutritious,” the chef raves. It’s another light, fresh dish that plays well against the citrus, herbs and greenery. The Sandfish Roll is their bestseller; it’s got both the name and a show-stealing

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DECOR • The décor is Scandinavian, with postmodern minimalism.

PRICE TAKE A WHISK(EY) • Bar Manager Mackenzie Simmons is a selftaught authority on whiskey and more than willing to share that knowledge.

• Signature dishes run from $15 to $23, with lower prices on more traditional sushi. Portion sizes are large, and sharing is encouraged.

presentation. Spicy tuna and crab meat make up the roll, which is then topped with a forestry of microgreens, green onions and lightly fried potato threads. It’s then drizzled with spicy aioli, teriyaki and black truffle zest. The spicy tuna—mixed with Sriracha and pure Japanese sesame oil—is a highlight. Chef Engin explains that Japanese sesame oil “doesn’t have the burnt flavor you find in other versions.” The sushi is exceptional, and the combination of microgreens and truffle zest bring an extra element of decadence.

• Chef Engin is a creative genius, preparing the best sushi you’re likely to experience.

Chef Engin calls Sandfish “a whiskey bar that serves sushi.” With an extensive Japanese whiskey list, sake and a highly knowledgeable bartender, you’ll find infinite permutations to elevate your experience.

SANDFISH SUSHI & WHISKEY 1556 N Palm Canyon Dr Palm Springs, CA 92262 760.537.1022 www.sandfishps.com

VERDICT


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