LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals
Clinically proven to reduce feelings of stress. Network-proven business booster.
a LESS STRESS FOR YOUR BODY “Our culture is to help our guests live well every day, and this line totally embodies that to the fullest.” –Brigette Mire, Indira Salon Spa, Chicago, Illinois
Aveda’s stress-fix™ body massage combines the power of aromaology, touch and breath for an integrated approach to beauty and wellness that focuses on high-stress areas of the body. Our professionals — and guests — really feel the difference.
LESS STRESS FOR YOUR BUSINESS “Stress-fix ™ is selling like hotcakes!!!” –Jeffrey Richard Cipcic, Jeffrey Richard Salon, Grand Rapids, Michigan
Stress-fix™ concentrate, body lotion and soaking salts are the same Ecocert-certified organic products our therapists reach for in spas and salons. Guests reach for them too because this family of Ecocertcertified organic products is a great way to take the spa experience home with them.
LESS STRESS FOR OUR PLANET “Aveda obtains certified organic ingredients to create as little stress on our planet as possible.” – Cindy Angerhofer, PhD, Executive Director of Botanical Research, Aveda, Minneapolis, Minnesota
Stress-fix™ aromaology contains certified organic French lavender, lavandin and clary sage from small organic farms in northern Provence, France. This is possible through a partnership with Plantes Aromatiques du Diois, which specializes in the implementation of sustainable development and ensures high-quality essential oils, which can be fully traced from Soil to Bottle in bases that are Ecocert-certified organic. SM
Ready to experience the difference stress-fix™ can make? Do it as part of the Aveda network. Connect with us at 888.382.8332 (888.38.AVEDA) or through aveda.com to learn more.
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CONTENTS OCTOBER 2 0 1 2
N U M BE R 1 0
Aging of Global Skins page 50
Growing Your Career Path
Elastin 31 How to Work With Someone Else’s Client … 32 Performance Ingredients 38 Multiple Therapies and Treatments 40 Sleeping Beauty 46 Aging of Global Skins 50 Patching Together Beauty 56 Slowing the Clock 60 Skin Stopwatch 64 Skin News 67
in spa management page 76
Spa Memberships and Loyalty Programs 71 Body Adaptations for the New Season 72 Growing Your Career Path 76 Spa News 79
organic & wellness Kaleidoscopic Beauty 97 Growing Young Naturally 98 Organic Backbar 105 Gua Sha 108 Organic & Wellness News 111
Show Me the Money easy tips for retail merchandising page 90
5 Keys to Success in Retailing 81 Transitional Thinking for a Transitional Time of Year 82 Subrogation Show Me the Money Connectivity Biz News
holistic Chinese healing facial page 108
86 90 93 96
Autumn & Winter makeup trends from the runway page 114
Age-Defying Makeup 113 Autumn & Winter 114 Pucker Up 118 Image News 122
From the Editor 6 Spa of the Month: Mirbeau Spa and Inn, Skaneateles, NY 10 Preview: The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Philadelphia, PA 25 Calendar of Events 124 Advertisers’ Index 130
courtesy of Zoom de Maniatis
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
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3 EQ lines
to give your client the most Forward Thinking Layered Technology Services.
hand held EQ
the essential add on
core based EQ
E CAN PROBABLY ALL AGREE THAT AGING IS the cumulative effect of many influences, such as heredity, environment, diet, exercise and lifestyle. While we cannot predict how we will age, we can address the influences that accelerate the aging process. LNE & Spa’s October issue is all about how to stop the clock and support our clients’ efforts to manage aging. As spa professionals, we need to have an understanding of how to minimize the effects of age through progressive technology and treatments designed to make people look and feel younger—both for our own sake and that of our clients! The articles in this issue cover a broad range of anti-aging topics, from high-tech treatments, skin tightening, elastin and anti-aging treatment approaches for ethnic skin, to name just a few! We also address the increasingly important issue of effective retail marketing in this month’s edition of LNE & Spa. Are you making the most of this component of your business? When you look at your retail shelves, do you feel they reflect the mission statement of your spa? Or is there a disconnect between the two? Teddy Lester shares valuable insight into effective retail marketing on page 90 in his article, “Show Me The Money.” Dave Waggoner also tackles the topic with a seasonal approach to selling retail on page 82 in “Transitional Thinking for a Transitional Time of Year.” Another great resource for learning about an abundance of business related topics relevant to our industry is The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia, coming up later this month on October 28-29 at the Pennsylvania Convention Center! The last congress of 2012 includes all the new features that have been added to the program this year, including the Medical Spa Business Seminar, Cutting-Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar, Business Education & Networking Program and an extended version of the extremely popular In-Depth Makeup Seminar! As always, this event is a great opportunity to learn from the leaders of our industry and connect with other like-minded colleagues. I hope you are all having an amazing start to the beautiful fall season, and I look forward to seeing you in Philadelphia! n —Denise R. Fuller, firstname.lastname@example.org
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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
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P R O F e S S i O NA l
AROmATHeRAPy SkiN AND bODy CARe
Four decades of knowledge & expertise. Respected by professionals worldwide.
3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 www.lneonline.com e-mail: email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand email@example.com Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller firstname.lastname@example.org Art Director Sacha Smith email@example.com Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton Winter firstname.lastname@example.org Director of Sales Danni Boucher email@example.com Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye firstname.lastname@example.org Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo email@example.com
Ultra rich - intensive replenish Telomere DNA - intensive repair Triple C vitamin complex - intensive serum Hyaluronic acid - intensive hydration Advanced eye complex - intensive repair Anti-bac skin wash - intensive purification
Visit Us at Booth #709 Philadelphia Trade Show October 28th & 29th, 2012 Business Opportunities Now Available. Available at Exclusive Spas Worldwide.
Eve Taylor North America
Exhibitor Operations Assistant Mayli Bueno firstname.lastname@example.org International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Rob Trow • Ben Johnson, M.D. Lake Louise • Nina Curtis • Diane Buccola
Contributors Rhonda Allison Catherine Atzen Samuella R. Becker Lissa Bell Maria Calabresa-Echelard Patty Colman Donna Dodier Matthew Dower
Teal Druda Nancy Griffin Chris Hobson Teddy Lester Janel Luu Tim Maurer Jon Perlman, M.D., F.A.C.S. Melissa Picoli Jennifer Schoenthal
Louis Silberman Dori Soukup Pamela Springer David Suzuki Lisa Sykes Joan Tomeu, R.N. Dave Waggoner Tina Zillmann
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
OF THE MONTH
RESORT SPA WITH A LOCAL FOCUS MIRBEAU SPA AND INN SKANEATELES, NY by Matthew Dower
SPA MIRBEAU, AN INTEGRAL PART of Mirbeau Inn & Spa in Skaneateles, NY, is a resort spa by definition. What differentiates us from the majority of resort spas is our unique orientation to the local market—a necessity given an inventory mix of 18 spa treatment rooms and only 34 overnight accommodations. With that in mind, Spa Mirbeau was conceived as a retreat for those
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who seek an escape from their routine for just a day. We offer the opportunity to enjoy a full range of resort amenities and a quality spa experience in an intimate environment—without the expense of an overnight stay or the hassle of a long drive or flight. Today, a full 60 percent of Spa Mirbeau’s business is day, versus 40 percent overnight, continues
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
An Exciting New Range of Botanical Stem Cells for Stronger, more Resilient Skin Since being first in the industry to introduce the Apple & Edelweiss combination in 2009, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen amazing results with stem cells in their support of skin health and their energizing, anti-aging effects. Along with the steady growth of stem cell technology in recent years, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve added multiple new and unique plant based stem cells as we strive to give our clients the most effective and diverse ingredients to improve skin health and appearance. Our (LPAR) stem cell line delivers the most effective and widest range in plant stem cell technology, combined with state-of-the-art peptides, and formulated with high level cosmeceutical concentrations for professional skin care and result-driven retail.
L u crece P h y si ci ansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Ae sthe ti c Re se arc h, Inc . w w w.fa ceboo k.com /l p a rsk i n ca re | www. l u c rece. com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card
spa of the month|mirbeau spa and inn
and we attract a wide age range of spagoers, from people in their mid-20s to those in their 70s. A good part of Spa Mirbeau’s promotional efforts are targeted to the local community, and we use a variety of tools to reach out regionally. We communicate with past guests through e-newsletters and mailings, informing
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them about the latest news and offers from the spa, including seasonal treatments that are a great enticement for those who have visited us to return and try something new. We also offer special promotions exclusively for local and regional visitors. That might include a complimentary lunch for those who book a spa treatment. One of our more popular local offerings has been a monthly “Shop & Spa” day package that combines a trunk show with spa treatments. Another is a date night, which features a couple’s treatment followed by a three-course dinner. Positive local stories have also helped us develop a loyal following. We put a good deal of effort into seeking out and cultivating relationships with contacts at local and regional newspapers to generate editorial coverage.
These strategies are crucial to a spa that relies on day business, as Mirbeau does. But getting to know the local market can also open valuable new revenue sources for resort spas with a more typical mix, helping to fill empty treatment rooms on traditionally slow weekdays and in periods of lower occupancy.
Rewarding loyalty Beyond attracting new clients, it is important to cultivate loyalty among existing customers. This is at the heart of Spa Mirbeau’s Guest Appreciation Week. Held each March, it is an opportunity for us to communicate with and reward our past overnight and day spa guests by offering them the Mirbeau experience they have enjoyed before at a significant discount. This is a meaningful way continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
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Visit our website: www.ladyburd.com
Industry Leaders in Keeping the Planet Green. Éminence offers products with the highest organic standards worldwide including USDA Certified Organic, ingredients certified by Demeter International – the only global certifier of Biodynamic® products – and Biokontroll Hungaria. Éminence cares about the planet from harvest to production, packaging to delivery. We are committed to being the “Greenest Company in Town” with the following initiatives: Wind and Solar Powered Manufacturing, Sustainable Farming Practices, Handmade Products, Recyclable Packaging, Vegetable Inks in Printing, Recycled Paper in Outer Packaging, Biodegradable Corn-Based Packing Materials, Green Warehouse Practices, Hybrid and Biodiesel Car Deliveries, Green Transportation Support for our Staff, Green Community
Supporter, Tree Re-planting Initiatives, Green Spa Program, ISO 90001/2001 Certified Manufacturing.
G AN IC
Boldijarre Koronczay President and Master Trainer
GREENSPA SKI N
Pigment Lightening VitaSkin™ Solution with Gigawhite™ and a new Natural Hydroquinone Alternative See incredible results in just 3 months: • Melanin production reduced by 51% • Dark spots lightened by 29% • Skin tone brightened by 24%
A naturally luminous, even complexion
Even skin tone while infusing the skin
is yours with the new Bright Skin Solution
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knock out dark spots and optimize skin’s clarity without irritation.
Available in select fine spas, salons
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spa of the month|mirbeau spa and inn
WE PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE LATEST TRENDS AND WHAT OUR GUESTS ARE LOOKING FOR, AND CHANGE THE MENU ACCORDINGLY.
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to express our gratitude for their past business and to encourage future visits. Throughout the week, returning guests enjoy almost 50 percent off a selection of spa treatments. We create a special spa menu for the week with select new treatments, along with food and beverage options. As each guest leaves the spa, we present him or her with a “positive thought” card to end the day on a high note. On the back of the card is an offer for a discount on their next treatment if they book it within 30 days. In addition to encouraging return visits, we have found that Guest Appreciation Week presents a great opportunity for guests to share their Mirbeau experiences with friends, resulting in a new “generation” of loyal guests.
Expressing gratitude and offering incentives is fundamental to cultivating a loyal and motivated spa team. Spa Mirbeau’s retail commission program rewards staff members who meet specific goals with a commission based on a percentage of pay. We also periodically hold contests that emphasize selling a specific brand or vendor.
Retail with a focus on guest results From the guest’s perspective, the Spa Mirbeau retail approach is more resultsoriented and less of a sales pitch. The experience is that of a customized skin consultation. When guests arrive for a spa treatment, our spa desk attendant continues
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
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requests that they take a moment to mark down their top three skin concerns and goals on a card, whether it’s fine lines and wrinkles, age spots, redness, dryness or breakouts. This gives the esthetician the ability to choose the right products to address each guest’s specific concerns and tailor a treatment to his or her needs. The esthetician might, based on the client’s concerns, suggest an upgrade to a different facial that’s better suited to those needs, or recommend enhancing the treatment with an add-on service to maximize efficiency.
After a treatment, the spa therapist writes down all of the products used— cleanser, toner, mask, sun care and so on—and notes the best time of day and proper routine for using each item. He or she provides recommendations at two levels —basic and deluxe, depending on how many products the guest is interested in purchasing. This spa consultation, with its individualized approach, not only helps guests accomplish their skin care goals but also helps us to establish a relationship between the guest and spa therapist that can lead to future business.
Respect the classics but stay attuned to trends The Spa Mirbeau treatment menu is re-evaluated every year. We pay close attention to the latest trends and stay informed about what our guests are looking for, and change the menu accordingly. That said, the massage selection remains fairly constant, as it is based on the classic and time-tested techniques Page 18 • www.LNEONLINE.com
our guests want. More likely to change are the product-based treatments and facials, which are influenced by the arrival of new products on the market. For several years, we saw a big boom in the organic movement, with a great demand for all-natural products. More recently, consumers have taken a more results-oriented approach to their purchases. Anti-aging products are always popular, especially as the baby boomer generation moves through middle age and beyond. In addition to the annual menu, Spa Mirbeau always features a selection of seasonal treatments as addons, providing a welcome dose of variety for our repeat guests.
Signatures with a sense of place Our signature treatments are constants on the Spa Mirbeau menu. We chose to draw inspiration from the immediate environment for one and from the bounty of the greater Finger Lakes region for the continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
tgf-B booste r serum • utilizes Tis sue Growth Factor to effectively s ignal cells to increase collagen pro duction
• diminishe s the appea rance of wrinkles and fine lines • revives sk in for a rejuv enated, glowing loo k
scan for more info.
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LeMieuxCosmetics.com (888) 327-8188
Please visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Philadelphia, PA at booth 103, Class: Room 121C, Sunday at 2:00 PM
Matthew Dower is the general manager of Mirbeau Inn & Spa. He previously worked in hotel management and spa operations for the Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort in Miami, FL, and the Red Mountain Resort in St. George, UT. He is a graduate of Cornell University’s Master of Management in Hospitality program.
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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
photos courtesy of Mirbeau Inn & Spa
other. The first, called “Monet’s Favorite Fragrance,” is an aromatherapy treatment designed to encapsulate Mirbeau’s French country ambience, and the 10 acres of Monet-inspired gardens that surround the inn. Spa Mirbeau’s own aromatherapist has created a blend of essential oils derived from local herbs and flowers, and employs them in a Swedish massage to stimulate the senses. The treatment is offered in both 50 and 100-minute sessions. Our second signature treatment relies on a selection of vinotherapy products that speak to the reputation of the Finger Lakes region as a wine destination. Treatment options range from a Pinot Noir body polish and wrap to a facial, deluxe pedicure and hand treatment. Vinotherapy has been a great selling point for Mirbeau, as we are within easy reach of hundreds of great regional wineries. Our connection to many of these wineries makes these treatments easy to promote. The inn’s year-round Wine Tour Package, for instance, combines winery visits with a spa vinotherapy treatment. Mirbeau also is a host location for the annual New York Wine Festival. This provides the perfect opportunity to promote our vinotherapy offerings to wine enthusiasts who are already on the property for the festival, and we offer a selection of overnight packages for occasions that include spa treatments. These signature treatments are defining features of the Mirbeau spa experience. Their appeal to overnight guests lies in their strong sense of place, while to the local market, they help to establish Spa Mirbeau as an integral part of the Finger Lakes community. It is this local focus that has driven our success since Mirbeau Inn & Spa first opened its doors in 2000. n
of Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. © 2012 Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. Clarisonic is a registered trademark and Mia 2 is a trademark
An acne cleansing regimen that uses the most powerful treatment available. Your advice.
You’ve always recommended thorough daily cleansing to your patients. Now there’s an easy way to help them comply. Introducing the Clarisonic® Acne Clarifying Collection, a gentle yet powerful, one-step cleansing regimen that pairs the patented sonic technology of the Mia 2™ with our Acne
Cleansing brush head and our Acne Daily Clarifying Cleanser.
MIA 2 Offering 2 speeds, including a low speed, the Mia 2 is gentle enough to use twice a day,
even on sensitive, compromised skin. And because it cleanses 6X better than manual cleansing,
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ACNE CLEANSING BRUSH HEAD Gentle for use on acne-prone skin with extra-plush bristle gradation, the velvet-like bristle tips of our Acne Cleansing brush head deliver concentrated flushing of the pores to provide an ultra-gentle cleansing action.
ACNE DAILY CLARIFYING CLEANSER WITH SALICYLIC ACID Our Acne Daily Clarifying Cleanser is specially formulated with 2% salicylic acid to help keep skin clear and prevent new blemishes from forming. It’s also enriched with beneficial vitamins
and botanicals to help reduce the appearance of redness.
To learn more about the Acne Clarifying Collection, please call 877.825.9633. clarisonic.com/professional
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o p t
Education, products, and 3 unique Equipment
hand held EQ
Hand Held Mag Lamp, Moisture Analysis, Ultrasonic Exfoliation, and Microcurrent for agile services in or out of the room.
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Visit us in San Jose OCT 7-8 at Booth 718
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Bio-Therapeutic World Wide USA | 800.971.6259 | bio-therapeutic.com Para informaci贸n en Espa帽ol llame al 800.971.6474 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card
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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA
R E G I S T R AT I ON ALL-INCLUSIVE
2 - DAY ADMISSION
1 - DAY ADMISSION SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER by 10/05/12 2 - day admission is $75 after 10/05/12 1 - day admission is $50 after 10/05/12 ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION INCLUDES • All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical Spa Business Seminar • Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Medical Esthetics Seminar • In-Depth Makeup Seminar NEW FORMAT • Green Spa Network, Day Spa Association & The Spa Buzz Business Education & Networking Program NEW • AIA-Aesthetics International Association • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Exhibit Hall including the Wellness & Organic Pavilion • The Green Spa Network Village
5 WAYS TO REGISTER:
1.800.471.0229 / 1.305.443.2322
Aesthetic Expo 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, FL 33134
Show hours: Sunday, October 28 from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Monday, October 29 from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
CONTACT US TODAY FOR YOUR FREE SHOW PROGRAM: WWW.LNEONLINE.COM 1.800.471.0229 / 1.305.443.2322
Pennsylvania Convention Center 1101 Arch St. Philadelphia, PA 19107
Endorsed by: Scan here to see all the details!
HOTEL & TRAVEL INFORMATION HOTEL RATES PER NIGHT
Superior - Tourist Class Rate includes deluxe continental breakfast Located across the street from the Convention Center
HILTON GARDEN INN
First Class Located across the street from the Convention Center NON-SMOKING HOTEL
COURTYARD by MARRIOTT
Superior – First Class Located 1 block from the Convention Center NON-SMOKING HOTEL
PHILADELPHIA MARRIOTT Deluxe Adjacent to the Convention Center NON-SMOKING HOTEL
RESERVE YOUR HOTEL
Visit our website: www.LNEONLINE.com E-mail: registration@LNEONLINE.com Tel: 305.443.2322 US: 1.800.471.0229 Fax: 1.305.443.1664
All rates are PER NIGHT – Plus 14% room tax. Congress rates are subject to availability. CANCELLATION PENALTIES: $50 cancellation fee if reservations are cancelled after 10/12/2012. Full one night deposit if cancelled after 10/19/2012. Cancellation penalties are STRICTLY ENFORCED.
AIRLINE RESERVATIONS & CAR RENTAL
To make your airline reservations at the best possible airfare contact: Vivian P. Lodeiro at firstname.lastname@example.org or call Express Travel at: 305-341-1200 ext 256.
GETTING TO PHILADELPHIA BY TRAIN
Taking a train is a fast, inexpensive and easy way to travel. Save on gas and parking fees for hotel and Convention Center. Amtrak Rail Service, for information call: 1.800.872.7245 or visit www.amtrak.com and refer to convention fare code X46L-955 Patco, for information call: 1.856.772.6900 or 1.215.922.4600 or visit www.ridepatco.org. Septa, for information call: 1.215.580.7800 or 1.215.580.4000 or visit www.septa.com.
AIRPORT SHUTTLE AND TAXICAB SERVICES
The shuttle fare from the airport to the city center is approx $10. Taxicab service is approx. $28. For more information please call 1.215.937.6958, or visit the Philadelphia airport’s website at www.phl.org.
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Philadelphia 2012
GENERAL SESSION & SEMINARS SUNDAY, OCTOBER 28
DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS
GENERAL SESSION LOCATED INSIDE THE EXHIBIT HALL 9:30 a.m. 9:45 a.m. 10:30 a.m. 11:00 a.m. 11:45 a.m. 12:15 p.m.
Opening Ceremony by Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner Morpho-Lymphatic Drainage for the Face and Body by Michael Ibbott (DEMO) Treating Stubborn Acne From the Inside Out by Ben Johnson, M.D. (LECTURE) Myofascial/PNF Body Treatment With Honey by Alma Bocanegra (DEMO) Glycation and the Skin by Peter T. Pugliese, M.D. (LECTURE) Getting Better all the Time: Beauty for Your 40s, 50s, 60s and Beyond! by Tim Maurer (DEMO)
MEDICAL SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR LOCATED IN ROOM 119 A 2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. 3:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Profitability = Sustainability: Understanding and Using Financial Information to Grow Your Business by Monte Zwang The Fusion of Spa and Wellness (PANEL DISCUSSION) Moderated by: Monte Zwang, Panelists: Monte Zwang, Patti Biro, Alma Bocanegra
SALON/SPA MANAGEMENT BUSINESS SEMINAR LOCATED IN ROOM 119 B 2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m. to 4:15 p.m.
Which Role are you Playing? Entrepreneur? Manager? Technician? Learn to do Them ALL Effectively!! by Deb Hunt Salon/Spa Retailing Made Easy by Deb Hunt
NATIONAL AESTHETIC SPA NETWORK (NASN) ROUND TABLES LOCATED IN ROOM 119 B 4:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Solutions to a Successful Career Moderator: Denise R. Fuller, Panelists: Denise R. Fuller, Pamela Springer, Mary Turner
AESTHETIC INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) LOCATED IN ROOM 124 2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. 4:00 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Healing Scarf Therapy by Ohashi Stimulating Marma and Acupuncture Points with India’s Healing Metal by Robert Sachs
MONDAY, OCTOBER 29 GENERAL SESSION LOCATED INSIDE THE EXHIBIT HALL 9:30 a.m. 9:45 a.m. 10:30 a.m. 11:00 a.m. 11:45 a.m. 12:15 p.m.
Opening Ceremony by Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner Oncology Skin Therapy by Anne C. Willis (DEMO) Chemical Peeling: Essential to Overall Skin Health by Danae Markland (LECTURE) A Tropical Body Treatment for the Winter Months by Linda Beach (DEMO) Don’t be Apprehensive About Treating Ethnic Skin by Pamela Springer (LECTURE) Eyebrow Contouring Shaping and Design, Upper Lip/Chin and Face/Cheek by Krissa Gordon (DEMO)
ED INCLUD WITH SION ADMIS
CUTTING EDGE SALON/SPA BUSINESS SEMINAR LOCATED IN ROOM 119 A 2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. 3:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Special Events Marketing: A Key to Sales Success! by Patti Biro 360 Degree Marketing (PANEL DISCUSSION) Moderated by: Karla Nelson, Panelists: Karla Nelson, Patti Biro, Sam Hennes
MEDICAL ESTHETIC SEMINAR LOCATED IN ROOM 119 B 2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.
The Next Step in Your Career, From Salon to Working With a Physician by Susanne S. Warfield Emergency Medical Care for Your Salon & Spa by Susanne S. Warfield
IN-DEPTH MAKEUP SEMINAR LOCATED IN ROOM 121 C 2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m. to 4:15 p.m. 4:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Luscious Lashes for Your Clients by Ellie Malmin The Business of Makeup by Tim Maurer Airbrush Bridal Makeup by Melanie Rizzo
The COA hasapproved these classes for 1 CE each
MONDAY & SUNDAY, OCTOBER 28 & 29 BUSINESS EDUCATION & NETWORKING PROGRAM 9:00 a.m. to 9:30 a.m. 9:30 a.m. to 10:15 a.m.
10:30 a.m. to 11:15 a.m. 11:30 p.m. to 12:15 p.m. 12:30 p.m. to 1:45 p.m. 2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Start the day with light refreshments, compliments of The Spa Buzz. Spa Operations: How to be Efficient, Effective and Profitable by Rianna Riego Skin Care That is Results-Oriented … and Healthy by Mike Bruggeman Seven Habits of Highly Effective Retailers by Patti Biro Are You Covered? The Top Five Claims You Should Watch Out For by Jonathan Friedman How to Grow and Increase Your Profits by Monte Zwang Using Email and Social Media by Sam Hennes Marketing in Today’s Spa Environment by Sharon del Valle Eye-Popping, Money Making Retail Speaker To Be Anounced The Spa Buzz – Building Your Best Spa Business by Kristi Konieczny
AESTHETIC INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) LOCATED IN ROOM 124 SUNDAY, OCTOBER 28 2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. 4:00 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Healing Scarf Therapy by Ohashi Stimulating Marma and Acupuncture Points With India’s Healing Metal by Robert Sachs
MONDAY, OCTOBER 29 2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Twice the Money, Half the Time! by Nicole Gallerie
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Philadelphia 2012
S u n d a y
DEEDD UD INCCLLU IN H WITH W IONN ISSSIO MIS AADDM
2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. ROOM 115 A
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Master the Hungarian Massage Techniques for the Instant Facelift (Hands-on demonstration) by Boldijarre Koronczay
ROOM 115 B
MARK LEES SKIN CARE Making Extractions Easier: Causes and Treatment of Clogged Pores .S., CIDESCO Diplomat
ROOM 115 C
SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic/ Microcurrent/Infrared Technology and Natural Clinical Products by Margarita Saian
ROOM 116 A
NATURAL DIFFERENCE Fruit Acid Enzyme Peels With Lactic Acid: Result-Oriented Treatments by Irene Stuckey
RHONDA ALLISON Peel, Peels and More Peels – The Most Requested Service by Rhonda Allison
ROOM 118 A
MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. Learn How to Earn Big $$$ Removing All Types of Skin Growths by Lana Yu
ROOM 118 B
NELLY DE VUYST (DERME.CA) Cellular Health: The Secret to Balanced Skin by Karina R. Geoffroy
ROOM 118 C
SKIN SCRIPT SKIN CARE Exfoliant Fundamentals by Lisa VanBockern
ROOM 120 A
DERMAWARE BIO-TARGETED SKIN CARE Corrective Peeling: Face Lift® Jessner Peel & Science by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone
ROOM 120 B
SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY 7-Minute Brazilian With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes
ROOM 120 C
PCA SKIN CHEMICAL PEELING: Safe and Effective Options for All Skin Types by Jennifer Wild, D.O.
ROOM 121 A
NATURE PURE LABS Instant Non-Surgical Face & Neck Lift With Age Reversing Organic Bio-Actives and Micro-Needling by Victoria Tabak, M.B.A.
ROOM 121 B
LIGHTSTIM™ LED LIGHT THERAPY: Results and Rewards by Vivian McClanahan
ROOM 121 C
SESHA SKIN THERAPY Liposomes, Nanotechnology and P.E.T.®: Proven Delivery Technologies & How They Work by Phyllis Hsieh
ROOM 122 A
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Physiology of the Skin: Inflammation and Aging Skin by Peter T. Pugliese, M.D.
3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. ROOM 115 A
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Newest Trends and Techniques in Natural Skin Care! (Hands-on demonstration) by Boldijarre Koronczay
ROOM 115 B
MARK LEES SKIN CARE How to Make Skin Look Younger … What Really Works by Mark Lees, Ph.D., M.S., CIDESCO Diplomat
ROOM 115 C
SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE Newest Clinical Hyperpigmentation Treatment From the Anti-Aging Experts! Non-toxic Alternatives to Hydroquinone That Safely Whiten and Brighten the Complexion by Margarita Saian
RHONDA ALLISON Chemical Exfoliation and Hyperpigmentation: Do the Most for Your Clients’ Skin by Rhonda Allison
ROOM 118 C
SPAWARE SOFTWARE Using Social Media With Automated Marketing & The Easy 5-Step Selling Process by Blake Rector
ROOM 120 C
PCA SKIN Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions by Jennifer Wild, D.O.
S u n d a y OCTOBER 28
2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. STAGE A
OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKIN CARE Your Skin is a Great Communicator, if You Listen by Ben Johnson, M.D.
PHYSIODERMIE METHODE (DERME.CA) Physiotonifying of the Face by Michael Ibbott
EVE TAYLOR NORTH AMERICA Aromatherapy Treatments and Oncology Esthetics by Trish Green, CIDESCO Diplomat
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Science of SWiCH ™ Dermal Rejuvenation System by Barbara Wilmot
3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. STAGE A
OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKIN CARE You’re Never Fully Dressed Without Color by Alejandro Falcon
NELLY DE VUYST (DERME.CA) Ultimate Lifting Complex Facial by Karina R. Geoffroy
EVE TAYLOR NORTH AMERICA Aromatherapy Tips, Tricks and Mini Treatments by Joy Puim
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Stem Cell Ingredients Demystified by Michael Q. Pugliese
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Philadelphia 2012
ED INCLUD WITH SION ADMIS
M o n d a y
DEEDD UD INCCLLU IN H WITH W IONN SSIO IS IS M M D D A A
2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. ROOM 115 A
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Hungarian Secrets for Anti-Aging Massage Techniques-Advanced (Hands-On Demonstration) by Boldijarre Koronczay
ROOM 115 C
SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SKIN CARE Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift and Collagen Infusion Through Galvanic / Microcurrent / Infrared and Natural Clinical Products by Margarita Saian
HYDROPEPTIDE® Peptides, Stem Calls Growth Factors Class by Erin Ferrill
RHONDA ALLISON® Take the Acne Challenge! by Rhonda Allison
ROOM 118 A
MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. Learn How to Earn Big $$$ Removing All Types of Skin Growths by Lana Yu
ROOM 118 B
PHYSIODERMIE (METHODE) / EUROPELAB, INC. Rosacea, Acne Rosacea & Sensitive Skin: Causes & Treatments by Michael Ibbot
2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. ROOM 120 B
SMOOTH SKIN SUPPLY 7-Minute Brazilian With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes
ROOM 120 C
PCA SKIN® Rejuvenation of the Aging Face by Jennifer Wild, D.O.
ROOM 121 A
NATURE PURE LABS True Breakthrough in Cellulite Treatment— No Equipment or Shower Needed by Victoria Tabak, M.B.A.
ROOM 122 A
GLOBAL SKIN SOLUTIONS Don’t be Afraid of the Dark: Causes and Corrections for Hyperpigmentation by Pamela R. Springer
3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. ROOM 115 A
ÉMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE The Organic Way: Treating Acne, Rosacea and Eczema With Natural Ingredients (Hands-On Demonstration) by Boldijarre Koronczay
VISIT WWW.LNEONLINE.COM FOR ALL DETAILS.
M o n d a y OCTOBER 29
2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. STAGE A
OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKIN CARE An Astounding Treatment for Melasma and Hyperpigmentation by Ben Johnson, M.D.
DE VUYST (DERME.CA) NDV Bul’Mask Facial. 5 Facials in ONE! by Karina R. Geoffroy
EVE TAYLOR NORTH AMERICA Skin Care for Men by Trish Green, CIDESCO Diplomat
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Peptide Technology by Michael Q. Pugliese
ED INCLUD WITH SION ADMIS
3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. STAGE A
OSMOSIS PÜR MEDICAL SKIN CARE Osmosis Customized MediFacial Treatments by Alejandro Falcon
PHYSIODERMIE METHODE (DERME.CA) Reduce, Resculpt and Tighten in 40 Minutes by Michael Ibbott
EVE TAYLOR NORTH AMERICA Indian Head Massage Treatment by Joy Puim
CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Pigmentation Disorders Causes and Treatments by Michael Q. Pugliese The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Philadelphia 2012
as of September 1
5 Star Formulators
Extend Your Lashes
Rena Levi Skin Care
A1A Facial & Salon Equipment
Fake Bake Tanning Products
A Natural Difference
Aesthetics Complete Aesthetics Unique
AIA-Aesthetics International Association Alex Cosmetic Herbal A-Peel AromaSalts
Associated Skin Care Professionals Athena Beauty, Inc.
B & S Beauty Supply (CA), Inc. Beauties City Supplies, Inc. Beauty Attica, Inc.
Beauty Beauty Int’l, Inc. BeautyPro, Ltd. Blinc
BO2Bio Peel® BonVital’, Inc.
Bronze Biologic Brow Diva
Brush UP With Barbara Ltd Bubalina
Cailyn Cosmetics Chado-En
Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Clarisonic
CMS of Holland
Crown Brush Co.
Danielle Cosmetic Division Day Spa Association Dectro International
DermaMed Solutions, LLC Dermascope Magazine
DermAware Bio-Targeted Skin Care
Eye Kandy Cosmetics
Farah Cosmetics Int., Inc. Five Star Formulators
Germaine de Capuccini Global Skin Solutions
Gold Cosmetics & Skin Care GrandeLASH-MD
Hale Cosmeceuticals, Inc. Health Mate Sauna HydraFacial™ HydroPeptide
Image Derm, Inc.
JHC International, Inc. JMT Group
Lady Burd Cosmetics LaSeta Wax Products
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Light Stim
Lizette Cosmetics, Inc, M’lis
Magazine Service Outlet
Mark Lees Skin Care, Inc. Martinni Beauty, Inc.
Med/Spa Distributors, Inc. Meg 21
michael marcus cosmetics Mineral Mine Makeup Minkys
Natali Products, Inc. Nature Pure Labs
Nelly De Vuyst (Derme.CA) New Beginnings
Dermaesthetics Beverly Hills Formula USA, Inc. Nufree Nudesse Diamond Tome™ Microdermabrasion
DPC Int’l, Inc.
Diamond Way Ayurveda Dr. Jeff Skin Care
Dynamis Skin Science Edge Systems Corp.
Éminence Organic Skin Care
Equipro Equipements de Beauté Ltd. Eve Taylor North America
Osmosis Pür Medical Skin Care PFB Vanish, Inc.
Physiodermie Methode (Derme.CA) Pinnacle Cosmetics PLH Products, Inc. Rapid Lash
Raw Men’s Skin Care
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Philadelphia 2012
Rose Skin Care Products Saian
Sesha Skin Therapy Shira Esthetics Silhouet-Tone Skin Fitness
Skin Script Skin Care Smooth Skin Supply Solarex MD
South Seas Skin Care, LLC Spa Manufacturer Direct Sparenity
Spaware Software Sun Laboratories Tea Docents
Tei Spa by Tip Essentials, Inc. Teka Fine Line Brushes, Inc. Terra Dolce
The Dead Sea Pavilion The Unique Edge Trinity Tan
Violet Skin Boutique
Vitality FX Healthy Solutions Detoxification Station Volcanic Origins
White Prof Tooth Whitening
photo: Valua Vitaly/Shutterstock.com
by Jon Perlman, M.D., F.A.C.S.
WRINKLES. EVEN WITH THE BEST lotions and potions the skin care industry has to offer, we all get them. But what causes those pesky lines—and what can we do to help stave them off? As it turns out, replenishing the elastin in our skin is the key to battling— and even reversing—the appearance of wrinkles and slackening of the skin as we age. It is widely known that at a relatively young age, the skin stops producing elastin, a crucial element of the skin’s support system that enables it to snap back into place. Studies have shown that the production of elastin begins to slow as early as age 13 or 14, eventually grinding to a halt around the age of 25. This steady loss of elastin—considered the “rubber band” fibers that help to keep skin youthful, firm and plump—can result in a dull, tired-looking texture, as well as sagging skin around the jaw line, neck and eye area. While elastin is vital to keeping skin looking youthful and firm, it has been largely ignored in the skin care industry. Instead, the spotlight has been on collagen, another crucial element of our skin’s support structure. Various types of collagen exist in our skin, and as we age, these collagen levels decrease significantly. As children, our skin is rich in type III collagen, accounting for the soft, supple texture. Although the production of type III collagen slows over time, the production of type I collagen begins to increase until around the age of 35, when the skin reaches its peak health. After this point, type I collagen levels also begin to decline. By the age of 60, the level for all of the collagen types has significantly diminished. While collagen is a key factor in maintaining young, healthy looking skin, elasOctober 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
tin has proven to be equally important for the health and appearance of our skin. Elastin, a protein found in the skin and connective tissue throughout our bodies, keeps our skin flexible and tight, allowing tissue to return to its original shape after stretching or contracting. Elastin also keeps the skin smooth as it stretches to accommodate our daily actions, such as muscle flexing and talking.
A recent study on one elastin boosting product new to the market showed promising results. As with collagen, elastin is produced by fibroblasts—connective tissue cells present in the dermis. These fibroblasts secrete soluble tropoelastin molecules, an immature form of elastin, that are crosslinked in a reaction catalyzed by the enzyme lysyl oxidase to create a durable, resilient network of elastin fibers in the skin. An abundance of collagen-enhancing products and procedures exist, in addition to treatments such as laser procedures, peels and resurfacing. On the other hand, the development of products and procedures to boost the skin’s elastin levels is only in its infancy, despite its comparable importance in the rejuvenation process and overall health and appearance of our skin. That being said, we are beginning to see some elastin-boosting products on the market that are both technologically advanced and clinically proven to replenish the skin’s diminished supply. In fact, a recent study on one elastin-boosting product new to the market showed promising results. Upon application, subjects
showed an immediate 17.7 percent improvement in elasticity, with a 49.6 percent improvement after just eight weeks of use. Additionally, subjects reported a 42 percent improvement in the appearance of lines and wrinkles immediately after use, with a 60 percent improvement after eight weeks. The proof is in the results—restoring and preserving the skin’s elasticity is crucial to younger, smoother and more vibrant-looking skin. n Jon Perlman, M.D., F.A.C.S., is a plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills. He is a member of the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, the American Society of Plastic Surgeons and the Los Angeles Society of Plastic Surgeons. Dr. Perlman has appeared on Extreme Makeover, Dr. Phil and Entertainment Tonight, and has made numerous other television appearances in which he has discussed safety and appropriate plastic surgery procedures. For more information, visit www.perlmanmd.com or www.Zerona-Beverly-Hills.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 31
BY TINA ZILLMANN
HOW TO WORK
photo: Lev Dolgachov/Shutterstock.com
AS PROFESSIONAL SKIN CARE PROVIDERS, we sometimes take for granted the effects that problem skin conditions can have on an individual. Acne, melasma, rosacea, capillary damage and hair loss/growth may all be common problems we see on a daily basis as professionals; but imagine how a client feels when she experiences a sudden unwanted change in her appearance. Considering his or her skin care history and background, how are you prepared to deal with the client’s problem when another practitioner caused it? First and foremost, be sensitive to the client’s emotions. Stress, anger and humiliation may be a few of the feelings they are experiencing when their appearance has changed for the worse. No matter what skin condition has surfaced, it is new to them, and it is a concern that none of their peers may be experiencing. Be compassionate, and learn about their history with skin care treatments. What treatments and home care did the previous esthetician have the client using? The initial consultation (when performed diligently) can tell you a lot about how the skin condition surfaced, and what means the client has taken to resolve it. Look for opportunity in every treatment, but be honest with the expectations you can achieve as their skin care provider. In some cases, it may take a physician’s intervention to help manage hormonal changes or potential cancerous lesions, administer laser therapy or perform surgical procedures. It all depends on the issue the client has presented to you. There’s a great saying in the game of poker: “Know when to hold them, and when to fold them.” Every client presents you with a different condition, skin tone, ethnicity or home regimen that requires you to reconsider the treatment you are performing and rediscover the means to continues
WITH SOMEONE ELSE’S CLIENT ...
AND CLEAN UP THEIR MISTAKES
Page 32 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #256 on reader service card
THE FIRST VARIABLE THAT NEEDS TO BE CONTROLLED IS THE CLIENT’S HOME CARE. ARE THEY USING PRODUCTS TO HELP SUPPRESS MELANOCYTE ACTIVITY? reaching their skin care goal. Sometimes it takes more than esthetic care to resolve a skin condition. If you are in a single practice or spa setting, referring your client to the care of a physician or surgeon is not a means to losing a client. In fact, it is the honest approach to give this person the best care possible, and the best means to promote your business with the resources you have. If you have the means to treat the client’s condition, take care to document—from the beginning—all the relevant information of the client’s past history, and disclose what your treatment options entail. With their permission, take a photograph of the affected area to establish a baseline for their progress. With or without a photograph, documenting the existing condition can also save you from a troublesome lawsuit in the event that the client decides to blame your services for his or her condition. Understanding customer service and consultation is only one part of understanding the client’s problem. To “fix it,” the combined effort of education and experience is necessary. For example, after a series of treatments, a client’s skin develops irregular darkened pigmentation in the form of melasma. The first variable that needs to be controlled is the client’s home care. Are they using products to help suppress melanocyte activity? Some key ingredients for skin brightening include hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin and glabridin. Melanocyte suppression and daily sun protection are critical to promoting an even skin tone. Once this is managed at home, accelerated results can be achieved with professional skin care treatments. Performing the treatment without suppression may worsen melasma skin conditions, as melanocytes may be stimulated by the trauma caused by deep peels and microdermabrasion treatments. Aside from facial treatments, a basic lip wax can cause discoloration that was not present before. The combination of hot wax and the physical action continues Page 34 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
skin|how to work with someone else’s client …
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #148 on reader service card
skin|how to work with someone else’s client …
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FOLLOW THROUGH WITH A TREATMENT PLAN AND PHYSICIAN REFERRAL OPTIONS (DEPENDING ON THEIR NEED), AND YOU MAY JUST END UP WITH A NEW CLIENT FOR LIFE! of ripping the hair out of the follicle can stimulate melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Once surfaced, it can be suppressed and minimized, but the area should never be waxed again. Opt for a derma planing procedure to remove the unwanted hair. Another concern that can arise from aggressive microdermabrasion treatments is capillary damage. Women who are experiencing peri-menopause or have already crossed into menopause are prone to thin, dry skin, collagen changes that result in sagging skin, wrinkle development and increased vellus hair growth. The combination of suction with crystal abrasion makes microdermabrasion the suspected culprit to increased capillary damage on this fragile skin type. Skin conditions involving capillary damage should not be treated with microdermabrasion. Opt for ultrasonic facials and chemical peel treatments monthly for their anti-aging benefits. To effectively treat the vascular damage, the client will need to have a series of intense pulsed light (IPL) photofacials or laser treatments in a physician’s office. Melasma, acne and menopausal skin changes are generally the result of internal changes within the body. During the consultation, a skilled esthetician can pick up on visual and client-disclosed clues that may relate to the development of certain conditions. This consideration may eliminate some of the skin care disasters that can occur as a result of negligence. If a new client comes to you with a problem caused by another esthetician, always treat them with great compassion and understanding. Thoroughly evaluate their condition, and give them the best educated guess about what went wrong with their skin. Follow through with a treatment plan and physician referral options (depending on their needs), and you may just end up with a new client for life! n
Tina Zillmann is a practicing esthetician and vice president and director of Skin Rejuvenation Clinique, Inc. and Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. She is a nationally recognized public speaker and published writer in the skin care industry. Zillmann has received the Female Entrepreneur of the Year award from the National Association of Women Business Owners, and served as the president of Aesthetic International Association for 2009-2010.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #120 on reader service card
Page 36 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242
by Catherine Atzen
delivery systems in the skin Erythritol and Homarine HCl. These ingredients boost moisture, and provide optimal water balance in the dermis and epidermis cells. Together these products can deliver fast results; tests show one products containing these elements provide 30 percent more hydration in the epidermis and 13 percent more in the dermis within 24 hours of use. Myristoyl Hexapeptide 23 (Sym peptide 380®). This acne peptide delivers anti-bacterial properties directly to the Propionibacterium acnes bacteria to effectively heal breakouts and prevent acne from spreading. New technology enhances skin care products with new delivery systems that produce skin improvements that were not possible in the recent past. Those delivery systems enhance familiar ingredients such as hyaluronic or kojic acid, and they allow labs to introduce new ingredients. Most of those ingredients or compounds are trademarked and owned by laboratories who have made a significant investment to bring these ingredients to market. n Catherine Atzen develops products and skin treatment protocols. In 2010, Atzen purchased her ATZEN skin care line back from Universal Companies Inc., and has since reformulated it. Atzen earned an M.B.A. from the University of California, Berkeley, and Columbia University in New York City. She is NCEA certified, holds a CIDESCO diploma and has been honored with 18 industry awards.
Page 38 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
HAVE YOU EVER WONDERED WHY some products deliver superior results—while others fail miserably? In order for performance ingredients to work, they need to have a good delivery system. Without that, ingredients cannot “do their job.” The delivery system is essential for the ingredients to get to the target cells and the particular area they must reach within those cells. This is one of the reasons why products you have used in the past may not have worked. Products made with ingredients using delivery systems deliver superior results fast. Performance products will have one or more of these ingredients. Here are a few examples: Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture (PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica). These anti-aging stem cells from Swiss apples promote the growth of skin stem cells, protect them from UV rays and prevent chronic skin aging. Intact DNA (highly polymerized DNA). The polymer is unbroken and retains its ability to travel deep into the dermis. It delivers 10,000 times its weight in water to cells in the dermis, making it the most beneficial type of hydration for cells deep in the skin where most cellular activity takes place; furthermore it delivers antioxidant protection to cells and the energy they need to repair scars and wrinkles. Intact DNA is the highest quality
pharmaceutical grade form of bioavailable DNA. Furthermore, minerals such as copper, zinc, lysine or manganese can attach to the DNA’s double helix to bring those minerals into the dermis. When minerals are added to a serum and not attached to the DNA, they only reach the epidermis, providing fewer results. For instance, Cu attached to double helix of the intact DNA provides superoxide dismutase control, and the lysyl oxidase coenzyme protects and energizes elastin and collagen, and protects cells’ DNA from UV damage and stress. Studies reveal firming and wrinkle reduction in the dermis. Kojic acid dipalmitate. Unlike regular kojic acid, kojic acid dipalmitate remains stable and does not oxidize. It delivers its powerful skin lightening and anti-melasma properties directly to the melanocytes, the cells that cause hyperpigmentation. Botanical hyaluronic acid from mush rooms. This glycosaminoglycan polymer travels into the skin and occupies space in the cellular matrix between cells. It hydrates the epidermis throughout the day; brings comfort and plump, healthy skin for more than 14 hours while other hyaluronic acids hydrate the surface of the skin for a shorter period of time. Hyaluronic acid is commonly used in many products and brands; Phytocare’s hyaluronic acid is superior because of its origin from mushrooms. Because of its fast delivery into the skin’s matrix, it moisturizes better and faster.
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MULTIPLE THERAPIES AND TREATMENTS FOR TOTAL REJUVENATION Advanced modalities Today’s licensed skin health professionals have countless options at their disposal that allow them to produce visible results that exceed their patients’ expectations. Taking the time to fully understand the mechanism of action behind each modality and how they may interact with one another will minimize complications along the way. The rules and regulations that determine which of the advanced modalities are approved for use by licensed estheticians vary from state to state. Even if the regula-
tions in your state do not permit the use of certain modalities, it is still valuable to have a working knowledge of each to help clarify when it is appropriate to combine treatments.
Microdermabrasion This clinical device may be used in combination with other procedures or to perform stand-alone treatments. Micro dermabrasion treatments are beneficial for a wide variety of patients, and are used to decrease excessive stratum continues
BY JOAN TOMEU, R.N. Page 40 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
THE PRACTICE OF COMBINING multiple modalities into one treatment to create dramatic changes in the skin has become increasingly common in the skin health industry. Patients are more knowledgeable than ever, and may push for a more aggressive procedure using multiple modalities to achieve total rejuvenation of the face. Understanding the wide variety of advanced treatment options available and when to incorporate them into your patient’s plan can boost your success, as well as encourage repeat business.
For results you can see Nothing emphasizes an esthetician’s professional expertise more than the quiet snap of an ampoule neck and the subsequent application and working-in of the precious liquid.
The PROFESSIONAL COLLECTION The DR. GRANDEL PROFESSIONAL COLLECTION offers twelve results driven concentrates in ampoules which provide solutions to the full variety of skin-beauty concerns and allow for a highly flexible & customized approach to skin care. They are divided into six easy-to-navigate-through categories: ● ●
60 years of expertise For over 60 years, DR. GRANDEL has been very successful in developing and manufacturing active concentrate ampoules for the professional beauty market. This background has provided us with a unique expertise in this category of skin care products. All active concentrate ampoules are made in Germany under the same strict standards that apply to the manufacture of medicinal preparations.
What makes active concentrate ampoules unique? They give skin the tools for visible
Concentrated formula Safe to use and dermatologically tested Highly effective
improvement from the first application. The fresh and smooth formulations are
Immediately visible results
literally “soaked up” by the skin. Meets professional standards
For more information contact: USA – WEST call: 1-866-693-7006 email@example.com www.grandelusa-west.com
USA – SOUTHWEST call: 1-888-266-0820 firstname.lastname@example.org www.grandelusa-southwest.com
USA – MIDWEST call: 1-888-845-1191 grandelusa_southeast@ estheticsupply.com www.grandelusa-midwest.com
USA – SOUTHEAST call: 1-888-845-1191 grandelusa_southeast@ estheticsupply.com www.grandelusa-southeast.com
USA – NORTHEAST CANADA call: 1-877-DRG-4SPA (374-4772) call: 1-800-561-3766 email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org www.vivari.us www.magnaesthetics.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #109
skin|multiple therapies and treatments
intense pulsed light
corneum (SC). This removal of SC leads to an increase in topical product penetration. Microdermabrasion is contraindicated for those suffering with active pustular acne, impaired barrier function and rosacea. There are endless options when it comes to combined therapies that include microdermabrasion. This modality tends to produce dryness in the skin due to its removal of the SC. Because it disrupts the delicate moisture balance of the skin, even the lightest microdermabrasion treatment can lead to rapid moisture loss that lasts for a short period of time. It is recommended to avoid stacking microdermabrasion with other professional treatments that are known to be drying, such as modified and enhanced Jessner’s solutions, high percentage salicylic acid treatments or chemical peels with high alcohol content. Instead, choose professional chemical peels that incorporate hydrating ingredients such as lactic acid to counteract the loss in moisture. Microdermabrasion also works quite well in conjunction with hydrating therapeutic masks. The versatility of microdermabrasion also allows the clinician to combine it with other advanced modalities such
A light emitting diode, commonly referred to as LED, is a double-sided electrical component that allows for energy to be released from only one end. LED is used as a light source for numerous items including car dashboards, alarm clocks and holiday lights. In skin care, LED lights are used to create a photo biochemical reaction within the skin. Because this modality does not exfoliate or cause inflammation or thermal injury to the skin, it can be combined with virtually any procedure. The application of the lights should take place on clean, dry skin before any other professional or corrective treatments are applied. Once the LED treatment has concluded, any additional treatments may be conducted safely.
Ultrasound Phonophoresis, a technique in which ultrasound waves are used to force topical products into the tissue, is a highly effective way to enhance the penetration of corrective products. There is some level of heat involved with all types of ultrasound; therefore, the wound healing response activates collagen production. Combining procedures with ultrasound offers a variety of treatment options. Keratolytic treatments, such as salicylic acid, pumpkin or papaya enzyme masks, can be performed before ultrasound to increase the penetration of topical corrective products. Remove any excess mask product thoroughly before proceeding to the ultrasound treatment so as not to push the active ingredients further into the skin. To combine with a chemical peel, be sure all coupling gel or aloe is removed and skin has dried completely. It is suitable to apply one layer of a superficial chemical peel to the entire treatment area to enhance results post-ultrasound. If combining
ultrasound with a superficial chemical peel, always be mindful of the corrective you just pushed into the skin. Although the integrity of the product is not compromised, the deeper penetration of the active ingredients may cause the skin to be more sensitive than normal.
Intense pulsed light Intense pulsed light (IPL) is a heat-producing modality that targets specific chromophores (the part of a molecule responsible for its color) within the skin to resolve issues such as hyperpigmentation and telangiectasias based on the wavelength used. Although non-ablative to the skin, IPL does cause controlled thermal injury to the skin, so the options for combining treatments are minimal. It is safe, however, to perform a light microdermabrasion treatment (one pass) on clean, dry skin prior to an IPL procedure.
Radio frequency Radio frequency (RF) devices utilize electromagnetic energy from the low end of the electromagnetic spectrum (radio waves). Since this specific wavelength is not attracted to an exact chromophore, this fairly new technology offers tissue tightening on all Fitzpatrick skin types. RF devices use heat to induce contraction of collagen fibers, leading to an overall tightening of the tissue. Radio frequency is a thermal modality; therefore, it is not advisable to combine this procedure with other modalities. Professional treatments should be administered in between the RF manufacturer’s recommended treatment intervals, and the next procedure should take place only after the patient’s skin has returned to baseline.
Laser Laser is an acronym for light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation. Lasers emit a specific wavelength of coherent, high-powered electromagnetic energy, which is highly thermal, regardless of the amount of skin removed during treatment. Because of continues
Page 42 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
as LED, ultrasound, IPL and non-ablative lasers. A general rule is to make only one pass when combining microdermabrasion with other procedures to avoid unnecessary complications.
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skin|multiple therapies and treatments the amount of heat produced during treatment, the potential for combining is minimal. Since LED technology does not emit heat, stacking with this procedure is also acceptable. It is best to apply the LED lights to clean, dry skin prior to performing the laser treatment.
When to combine services Treatments involving multiple procedures are effective ways to touch on various concerns during one appoint-
ment and produce dramatic results. Combination therapy is no doubt a more aggressive approach to treating patients, and should be done with care. Remember to assess the mechanism of action of each modality before combining several into one treatment. This will reduce the risk of thermal injuries to the skin and ensure positive treatment outcomes. Before performing multiple modalities during one appointment, be sure you have successfully treated the patient
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with each service on its own. Also, make sure you have a detailed patient history and understand their skin thoroughly before giving them any treatment. You may also combine treatments when you feel the patient is ready for a more progressive treatment. It is likely they have been through a series of chemical peels, have had multiple microdermabrasion procedures or expressed interest in an advanced procedure such as ultrasound, IPL, laser or radio frequency. Be certain that the patient understands the importance of a comprehensive skin care regimen and the use of post-procedure care before starting a progressive treatment program. Diligent use of a broad spectrum sunscreen product is by far the best insurance for their skin care investment, and the most effective way to protect the skin from UV damage. Achieving healthy, beautiful skin for your patients is the ultimate goal of all treatments, both in-office and daily care. Having a working knowledge of how each treatment modality works alone and in combination with others helps reduce possible complications. Take the time to understand your patients’ skin, and educate them on the integral nature of compliance with daily care prior to performing a stacked procedure. The safe and effective use of multiple modalities will help both you and your patients achieve total rejuvenation of the face, safely and effectively. n Joan Tomeu, R.N. has been a registered nurse for more than 30 years. After working for a plastic surgeon in 1999, she decided to open her own skin care business. As the business grew, Tomeu’s patient base and the types of conditions she treated did as well. She has served as an advanced educator for PCA SKIN® since 2004, training estheticians, physicians and nurses on skin biology, chemical peels, ingredient knowledge and medical devices.
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skin|sleeping beauty how clients can combat aging while they sleep sleep without washing our face, the skin retains pollution and free radicals, which can contribute to cellular damage and early aging. Makeup also blocks the pores, and does not allow the skin to breathe.
Counsel your clients to follow these dos and don’ts to become real sleeping beauties: DON’T: • Sleep on the face. According to The American Academy of Dermatology, sleeping on the face is one of the major causes of permanent sleep lines and wrinkles. The AAD cautions that sleeping in certain positions night after night leads to “sleep lines,” which are wrinkles that become etched into the surface of the skin—and don’t disappear when we get up. • Go to sleep with makeup on. Derma tologists agree that when we go to
The skin underneath the eyes is very thin, and fluid tends to pool in that area during the night. It has been proven that sleeping at a slight elevation helps to prevent that dreaded eye puffiness.
• Lie flat when sleeping. The skin underneath the eyes is very thin, and fluid tends to pool in that area during the night. It has been proven that sleeping at a slight elevation helps to prevent that dreaded eye puffiness. • Drink alcohol within three hours of going to sleep. Alcohol contains a lot of sugar, and therefore increases our blood sugar levels. After we have been asleep for awhile, this sugar level drops. The adrenal glands kick in when our blood sugar drops, and that is what usually wakes us up. *TIP: It is helpful to stay hydrated when drinking. Drinking one glass of water for every alcoholic drink will help flush the system and keep the skin looking radiant.
ing this time that are essential to our physical and mental health. • Sleep on a pillow that is designed to prevent wrinkles. Did you know that sleeping on the face is the third greatest cause of permanent sleep lines and wrinkles? As we get older, we begin to lose collagen and elastin, which makes it harder for the face to recover from the damage of being pressed into a pillow. • Try to go to bed at the same time every night. Scientists refer to sleep drive as a homeostatic system. Like body temperature or blood sugar, sleep is regulated internally. When we stay consistent with a sleep schedule, continues
Page 46 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
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DAYTIME SKIN CARE ROUTINES ARE about protection, and nighttime skin care is about reversal and rejuvenation. Because skin cell turnover is a faster process and many anti-aging products work better at night, why not take advantage of dreamtime and educate your clients on how to fight aging while they sleep?
DO: • Get at least seven hours of sleep a night. Sleep is the time when the body can be restored, healed and rejuvenated. There are numerous hormonal changes that occur dur-
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Use products that contain the following ingredients: • Retinol. Retinoids increase collagen protection, which helps diminish wrinkles, fine lines and discoloration (many people are sensitive to retinol, so consult with your dermatologist first). • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid). Vitamin C helps fight the free radicals your skin absorbed during the day. It also replenishes nutrients and gives your skin that much needed boost. • Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). AHAs exfoliate the skin and support the
cell renewal process. They also help with fine lines, irregular pigmentation and age spots. They may also help decrease enlarged pores. • Peptides. Peptides further encourage skin turnover (at night, the rate of turnover is double what it is during the day). Studies have shown that copper peptide promotes collagen and elastin production, which acts as an antioxidant. • Hyaluronic acid. This ingredient is a potent natural humectant that helps the skin hold water, which makes it look smoother in the morning. n Patty Colman is the president of About Face Products. She is a beauty sleep expert and sought-after public speaker, boasting over 15 years of experience in the beauty and health fields. Colman has been a contributing writer for many publications. She can be reached at email@example.com.
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our bodies know what to expect, and we feel and look better because of it. • Drink plenty of water throughout the day. If our skin does not get a sufficient amount of water, the lack of hydration will present itself by turning our skin dry, tight and flaky. Dry skin has less resilience and is more prone to wrinkling.
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AS THE BABY BOOMERS CONTINUE TO GET older, research shows that there is a direct correlation between increased aging and environmental stressors. A great amount of research has been done on the aging of skin types I, II and III. In all skin types, the two complexities distinguishing how the skin ages are related to chronological and environmental aging. These complexities are known as: intrinsic, a genetically programmed phenomenon; and extrinsic, or external aging, which is the result of exposure to the environmental elements, particularly artificial or natural ultraviolet (UV) rays. Each complexity affects the skin differently. For skin types I to II, intrinsic aging happens over time. The epidermis becomes atrophic with the flattening of the dermoepidermal function. The dermis decreases in thickness and loses elastin fibers due to the decrease of fibrolast function, causing elastosis, dryness of the skin and loss of skin turgor. Ecchymotic lesions become prevalent due to atrophy of the dermis. These factors are uncontrollable, and are largely determined by heredity and genetics. Extrinsic or external factors of aging are more easy to control, and generally are influenced by one’s lifestyle habits, such as sun exposure, cigarette smoking and diet. Environmental elements—particularly artificial or natural ultraviolet (UV) rays, can manifest skin disorders such as dyschromias, senile lentigines (age spots), degeneration of collagen, elastosis and actinic keratoses in skin types I to III. The Glogau classification is based on the severity of sun damage, as well as the epidermal and dermal changes. This scale is more appropriate for Caucasian skin types, which are known to have advanced to severe photodamage. Clinical signs of photoaging of the skin include rhytids, lentigines, keratoses, telangiectasia, sallow color, loss of translucency and elasticity. The Glogau
classification often facilitates the selection of treatment options in the aging Caucasian face. The advanced and severe clinical features are uncommon in deeply pigmented skin. When it comes to pigmented skins, the evidence of melanin’s reflective differences between ethnic groups and their respective environments is still inconclusive. These ethnic groups include people of African, Asian, Latino/ Hispanic, Mediterranean, Indian and Arabic descent. The overall consensus is that individuals with skin of color show less severe facial aging when compared to lighter-skinned individuals. continues
AGE: 20s-30s Early photoaging Mild dyschromias No keratoses Minimal wrinkling Minimal/no makeup
Age: Late 30s-40s Early senile lentigines Dyschromias Early actinic keratoses Parallel smile lines Early wrinkling Some foundation worn
Age: 50s-60s Dyschromias, telangiectasias Visible keratoses Wrinkling at rest Always wears makeup
Age: 60-75 Actinic keratoses Prior skin cancer Wrinkling throughout Makeup cakes and cracks
Glogau classification chart
BY PAMELA SPRINGER October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 51
THE PROTECTIVE FACTOR (PF) IN DARKER PIGMENTED SKIN IS 13.4, AS COMPARED TO 3.4 FOR CAUCASIAN SKIN.
When comparing African descendants that settled in America and those who settled in the Caribbean, photoaging is more predominant in the African American skin types. The consensus is that African American skin types are racially mixed with Africans, Caucasians and Native Americans. This racial blending creates skins that are prone to photoaging. The darker ethnic groups have a concentration of melanin content in the epidermis, therefore protecting the skin from UV rays. When compared with white skin, there is no evidence of elastosis or epidermal atrophy. The photoaging manifestation, however, is mottled facial pigmentation and texturally rough skin. In some cases, enlarged pores are evident, and they worsen over time. The large and active fibroblasts give a thicker density to the dermis, helping to decrease volume loss, thus reducing skin laxity. As mentioned previously, photoaging is minimized in skin types IV to VI due to the photoprotective role of melanin. The protective factor (PF) in darker pigmented skin is 13.4, as compared to 3.4 for Caucasian skin. The UVB ray transmission into darker pigmented skin is reported to be 5.7 percent, compared to
29.4 percent into the epidermis of white skin. Transmission of the UVA rays in the epidermis of darker skin is 17.5 percent, compared to 55.5 percent in white skin. This concludes that three to four times more UVA rays reach the upper dermis in Caucasians than in darker skins. The site of filtration in Caucasian skin is in the stratum corneum, whereas in darker skins it is in the innermost layer of the epidermis. In Asian culture, the standard of beauty is flawless skin, uniform color and texture. Two decades ago, an Asian female would not dream of going outside without an umbrella for protection against the sun. Members of today’s younger Asian generation deliberately expose themselves to high doses of UV rays. Their quest is to emulate the Western culture. Noted signs of Asian skin include increased pigmentary lesions such as solar lentigines, seborrheic keratoses and melasma. Aging Asian skin types III and IV show mild wrinkling, with primarily pigmentary changes. These changes include actinic lentigines, textural alterations, flat, pigmented, seborrheic keratoses, dermatosis papulosa nigra and mottled hyperpigmentation. Melasma is more common in these skin types than it is in Caucasian skin. Photoaging is the third most common diagnosis in Hispanics. European or light-skinned Hispanics age to the same degree that Caucasians do. The primary manifestation for them is wrinkling, again appearing at the same age as it would for Caucasians. Less pigmentary changes are noted. Hispanic skin types IV and V who have lived in climates such as Mexico, Central and South America show photoaging similar to darker-skinned Asians and African-Americans. The manifested lesions are fine wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, dyschromias, textural changes, seborrheic keratoses and dermatosis papulosa nigra, seen in their 40s through their 60s. However these lesions are due to many years of occupational sun exposure. Many of these manifestations could be avoided with the protection of sunscreen. Due to a lack of education, skin types IV through VI often choose not to use sunscreen. Studies have shown that the use of sunscreen is less prevalent among African American and Hispanic individuals than it is for Caucasians. Following is a summary of useful topical ingredients that can reduce the appearance of the common anomalies seen in racially blended and darker skin tones. continues
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photo: AISPIX by Image Source/Shutterstock.com
skin|aging of global skins
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skin|aging of global skins Retinoids: Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that are found to be very effective topical agents for the treatment of dyspigmentation, such as actinic lentigines, mottled hyperpigmentation and solar-induced melasma. The accumulation of visible damage is removed from the upper layer of the epidermis. Retinoids can also fade the excess pigment that accumulates in the lower layer of the epidermis. As an extra benefit, the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles is diminished. Niacinamide: In a study to evaluate the effectiveness of niacinamide for reducing facial hyperpigmentation in Asian women, this agent significantly increased skin lightness after four weeks of use. Vitamin C: Ascorbic acid has been shown to protect skin against sunburn and reduce UVB radiation induced skin wrinkling. Vitamin C formulations are typically non-irritating when applied, and have been shown to improve chloasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Hydroquinone: Topical products containing hydroquinone are effective for treating melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, lentigines and freckles. Common acute reactions are irritant and allergic contact dermatitis. Hypopigmentation may occur, but it is usually a temporary complication. These conditions are most often seen in African Americans who use products containing high concentrations of hydroquinone for long periods of time. However, such cases are rare in the United States. Hydroquinone 2% should be placed on the affected area for a maximum of three months. Azelaic acid: Azelaic acid was initially used for the treatment of acne. It was later found to have an effect on the enzyme tyrosinase by suppressing the melanin production. Treating melasma and other hyperpigmentation problems with azelaic acid is a skin-lightening alternative. However, as opposed to hydroquinone, azelaic acid is not very effective against freckles and age spots. Licorice extract: This compound inhibits melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Kojic acid: This is a natural occurring hydrophilic fungi derivative. Similar to hydroquinone, it suppresses the production of melanin by inhibiting the tyrosinase activity. Kojic acid can be unstable in some skin care formulations. It easily oxidizes on contact with air. Products containing kojic acid are generally found in amber bottles to prevent exposure to sunlight. Arbutin: Arbutin clearly has pigmentation reducing effects. There is no clear evidence as to how well it stacks up against hydroquinone, though reports note that it has fewer side effects. Arbutin clearly appears to be a promising hydroquinone alternative, but more studies need to be done. Chemical peels: Peeling agents improved the textural and pigmentary skin changes. Concentrations of 30 percent with a pH above 2.5 can reduce hyperpigmented lesions. To avoid complications, the initial pretreatment should be performed, including skin lightening agents such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid or kojic acid formulations two to four weeks prior to administering a chemical peeling agent. Any retinoid-based products should be discontinued one to two weeks prior to the peel to lessen the depth of the agent. n
Pamela Springer is a licensed educator, speaker and author, and conducts monthly “Don’t Be Afraid of the Dark” webinars on skin management programs for darker skins. She is the product developer for Global Skin Solutions, and founder of The Skin & Makeup Institute of Arizona and the Academy of Advanced Aesthetics and Permanent Cosmetics. Springer volunteers her time as the director of NASN for Arizona. She can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #253 on reader service card
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transdermal patch solutions have invented a wide variety of technologies that offer different ways to accomplish the difficult task of diffusing active ingredients across the stratum corneum. Transdermal patches can deliver far more active ingredients than a cream or serum and achieve much greater hydration levels that last longer. There are two main options for transdermal skin care patches: “passive” and “active.” Gel pads are the simplest form
Transdermal patches can deliver far more active ingredients than a cream or serum and achieve much greater hydration levels that last longer.
recent boom in devices designed for sonic cleansing, micro-current and teeth whitening. Now more than ever, consumers are looking for more efficacious, faster-acting and longer-lasting solutions to common skin conditions. Technology, supply and demand have come together to enable a massive new trend. How can transdermal patches deliver better results? As skin care professionals know, the skin’s outer barrier layer, the stratum corneum, is very effective at its primary function: keeping water in and keeping foreign substances out. Transdermal patch companies
of passive patches. They typically contain no active ingredient, but are applied on top of serums, creams, oils or specially formulated waters. A slightly more complex but more convenient passive patch contains the drug(s) suspended in the adhesive that keeps the patch attached to the skin. Most of us are familiar with this technology due to the commercial success of the nicotine patch. In both cases, the pads or patches occlude the skin, resulting in increased heat and hydration under the patch, which then enables some of the active continues
Page 56 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
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ALEESHA VARLEY, A LEAD ESTHE tician at Della Stella Salon and Spa in Valencia, CA was concerned with her pending annual review with the spa’s owner. She knew she had skills and that her clientele was growing, but she needed something new and innovative to offer her guests to increase her sales. Varley’s business was healthy, but she was looking for a way to energize her clientele with the latest solutions while building revenue by cross-selling skin care into the salon. Neither she nor the owner were ready for a large capital expenditure on new equipment, but she knew that it was time to consider something fresh to reinvigorate her practice. She recalled hearing about how transdermal patches had been applied to anti-aging solutions and decided to learn more. In recent years, several massive trends have conspired to bring transdermal patch technology into the skin care world. The FDA approved the first transdermal patch in 1979, and it has evolved into a $21.5 billion industry that
is growing by almost 10 percent per year. Transdermal patches are available to treat a wide variety of conditions, including chronic pain, angina, smoking addiction, ADHD, motion sickness and hormonal imbalances. Advances in both technology performance and manufacturing efficiency have driven down the prices on a wide variety of electronic and mechanical devices. This trend has contributed to the
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ingredients to pass through the stratum corneum. Passive patches are inexpensive and simple to use, but can be less effective and require longer wear times, as they do not actively push the ingredients across the barrier layer. Transdermal patches can be included in a facial, upgrade service or home care purchase. They are a great anti-aging solution, and will assist in boosting revenue. n
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BY RHONDA ALLISON
AS SKIN CARE PROFESSIONALS, WE are constantly in search of fresh modalities, ingredients and techniques to help our clients stop Father Time in his tracks—and reverse the visual signs of his handy work. While we may never be able to completely “stop the clock,” we can at least slow it down, and in many cases reverse some of the visual effects of aging. With so many advances in the last decade—and even the last couple of years, combined with the time-tested classics, we now have a bevy of tools at our disposal to devise a pro-youth plan for our clients. This plan will effectively treat photo-aging, damage, dehydration, dullness and pigmentation issues of the skin—and help stimulate cellular regeneration.
photo: Zagibalov Aleksandr/Shutterstock.com
Rise of the couture peels Recent years have given rise to the “couture peel,” thanks to the emergence of next-generation acid formulas, as well as the blending of acids with one another and with other actives such as lighteners, retinols and peptides. The next-generation acid formulas, while they remain in the superficial range, provide profound results in skin rejuvenation. For instance, flower acids—which are classified as second-generation AHAs, provide all of the benefits of an AHA—cell regeneration, smoothing and firming, brightening and lightening— and they are non-irritating, so they may be used on nearly any skin type. Typically obtained from hibiscus chalices and lotus roots, flower acids are characterized by their high level of AHA-like citric acid (10 percent) and pyruvic acid (5 percent). These hybrid AHA formulas deliver anti-inflammatory and healing properties, increase cell turnover, improve skin tone and provide more hydration than lactic acid. Another exciting acid formula that blends retinol with peptides exfoliates, stimulates cell regeneration and reduces fine lines and uneven pigmentation. It also rebuilds the skin, leaving it toned and firm. Skin rejuvenating treatments are also being advanced through the mergOctober 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
FLOWER ACIDS ARE CHARACTERIZED BY THEIR HIGH LEVEL OF AHA-LIKE CITRIC ACID (10 PERCENT) AND PYRUVIC ACID (5 PERCENT).
ing of acids with other active ingredients to produce more visible, customized results. For example, a three-peel treatment blending two types of flower acids—lotus and hibiscus—with the retinol and peptide peel produces a very unique effect. The AHAs and concentrated dose of retinol stimulates the desquamation process, while the phytic/pyruvic acid in the flower acid supports cell turnover, but also provides lightening, healing and moisturizing benefits. The peptide then activates to strengthen, tone and firm the skin. This impacts the skin at the cellular level to reverse aging.
Time-tested classics Of course, a conversation about skintightening treatments can’t be complete without mentioning some of the classic peeling agents. These time-tested formulas, many of which you are likely familiar with, also provide superficial epidermal exfoliation and work to reverse the visible signs of aging. • AHAs are naturally occurring, nontoxic organic acids. The most commonly used ones include glycolic (from sugar cane) and lactic (from milk) acids. Others include malic (apples), tartaric (grapes) and citric (citrus) acids. • Azelaic acid (up to 15 percent) is created by oxygenating oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid found in milk fats. This is used as a lightening, lifting and antibacterial agent. • Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid extracted from wintergreen and birch.
It is a relatively safe, low-risk acid, as it is self-neutralizing and produces a drying and lifting effect. Repeated applications in high-strength doses can result in systemic toxicity. • Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid and is a DNA regulator. It assists in the synthesis of collagen, aids in the formation of blood vessels and encourages healthy cell formation. • TCA (Trichloracetic acid) will penetrate only if it used in an aqueous base. It is nontoxic, self-neutralizing and keratolytic, and is very effective in low strengths. It can be used alone or in tandem with other acids. • Jessner acid is a combination of lowerstrength acids (salicylic, resorcinol and lactic), which synergize to produce an efficient exfoliating agent with less risk. • Red wine vinegar acid (acetic acid) is an all-natural acid with a high antioxidant content. Though not proven, it is said to produce exfoliation with less free-radical damage, and thus cause less injury to the skin. Keep in mind, all of these classics can be used to create customized treatments—it all comes down to education, and knowing your client’s skin and the results you both want to achieve.
Taking treatments to the next level How can you create a designer peel and take clients’ skin to the next level of rejuvenation? In addition to blending and layering, another technique advancing in the world of esthetics is the idea of merging advanced technologies with intelligent ingredients. For instance, introducing lactic acid, salicylic acid or enzymes during microdermabrasion may intensify the effects. Similarly, LED actively supports the hydrating properties of ingredients like amino acids, hyaluronic acid, peptides and tocopherols to help heal the skin from the inside out. Typically, pairing modalities with ingredients or products that purport simicontinues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 61
skin|slowing the clock
lar results will enhance the outcome. Before integrating multi-layer treatments and mixed modalities into your practice, advanced education and study is absolutely essential. This will ensure safety and optimum results in the treatment room. For example, if the goal is to stimulate and increase collagen production, improve texture, hyperpigmentation and hydration, as well as reduce scar
formation, you might begin with a glycolic-based cleanser, followed by a botanical regenerating lotion to deepen the cleanse and control skin flare-ups. Exfoliate the skin with epidermal leveling, then introduce two passes of microdermabrasion, watching the skin closely as you do to ensure that you don’t bring it to the point of bleeding. The microdermabrasion is followed by an acid application—a TCA/AHA so-
lution—to help break down surface layers further, soften keratin cells and regenerate skin tissue. Technology comes in again with two passes of LED—one with red to stimulate collagen and a second with blue for anti-bacterial support and oxygenation. Finish the treatment with an application of omega-6 essential fatty acids (EFAs) and a topical containing plant stem cells and oligo elements for nourishing, anti-bacterial and moisturizing support. Omega-6 EFAs also assist other actives in penetrating the skin. Always apply an SPF 30 product to protect the skin. The idea is to introduce intelligent active ingredients along with advanced technologies throughout the treatment to create a superficial exfoliation while supporting the repair of cellular damage and increasing collagen production. Though we may never be able to completely halt Father Time’s handy work, the esthetic tools available to skin care professionals have progressed significantly, enabling us to affect tremendous change in the skin. Stay informed about the latest tools available, as well as how to most effectively use these tools. This will help you customize treatments for your clients. n *A note of caution: Advanced education and training is necessary prior to working with advanced modalities and multi-layer techniques.
Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RAW Skin Care for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of esthetic experience. Visit www.RhondaAllison.com and www.RAWmethod.com for more information. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #104 on reader service card
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HIGH TECH ANTI-AGING TREATMENTS
One of the most talked about procedures involves harnessing radiofrequency energy for esthetic procedures.
knife. This is great news for those of us in the beauty business, because in most states estheticians, cosmetologists and cosmetic laser technicians can perform procedures that provide dramatic results without the hassle and recovery time associated with surgical procedures. These treatments utilize different laser wavelengths, light pulses and heat energy to offer proactive and reactive anti-aging treatments for clients of all ages.
Some of these treatments provide immediate results, while others will reveal results over a period of time. In addition, many high-tech treatments require more than one visit to achieve the best results. This is a great way to build relationships with sporadic clients who now have an extra incentive to become regular customers. This article highlights some of the top treatments that can help your clients achieve the younger-looking skin they desire, and outlines some creative ways to market these procedures.
Fractional laser skin rejuvenation Fractional skin rejuvenation is a great procedure that effectively reduces the appearance of wrinkles, stretch marks, acne scars and age spots. A fractional laser uses a standard beam of laser light that is split into thousands of tiny microbeams. The microbeams stimulate collagen growth in the dermis and improve skin texture without harming the skin’s superficial layer. This can be used to treat skin anywhere on the body. As this is a non-ablative
BY LOUIS SILBERMAN Page 64 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
photos courtesy of the National Laser Institute
MANY OF US HAVE LONG DREAMED OF STOPPING THE clock on aging and keeping our fresh, youthful looks forever! Well, no one can honestly promise us that our looks will last “forever,” but modern technology allows men and women to fight the signs of aging without having to go under the
skin treatment, clients can return to work immediately following the procedure. Typically, three to five treatments are needed to achieve the best results.
IPL Photofacial The Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Photo facial has become one of the most sought-after rejuvenation treatments in the skin care industry. This light-based treatment can address a wide variety of skin problems, including fine lines and age spots. Photofacials work by using an IPL device that emits a series of light beams that penetrate the skin at the deepest level, targeting unwanted skin pigmentation and stimulating collagen production to improve skin tone and texture. The procedure is non-invasive, and requires virtually no downtime. This treatment is not as strong as the Fractional Laser, but it still provides amazing results. Similar to many laser treatments, three to five treatments are required to get the best results using IPL.
Radiofrequency skin tightening No longer does a client have to seek out a surgeon to get a “lift” in order to address the problem of sagging skin. There are noninvasive high-tech modalities that offer quick and effective solutions for sagging skin anywhere on the body. One of the most talked about procedures involves harnessing radiofrequency energy for esthetic procedures. Radiofrequency skin tightening is a procedure that sends heat into the dermal layer of the skin while the superficial layer remains protected. This treatment is effective because the controlled heat causes the skin’s tissue to retract while stimulating the production of new collagen. This is a great option for clients seeking a more youthful appearance. It offers noticeable skin tightening with no downtime following the procedure. Some of the newest skin rejuvenation devices combine both laser and radiofrequency to achieve desired results.
Spider vein reduction Recent surveys show that spider veins are a problem for more than 75 percent of women and 40 percent of men. Treatments using laser, Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and heat energy are all options for treatment. Light-based treatments work by emitting a special wavelength of light that is only absorbed by the damaged blood vessels. The heat seals off the vein from the body’s circulation and makes it inactive. Shortly after, the vein’s appearance begins to fade, and the body naturally absorbs it.
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Treatments using heat energy deliver a regulated high frequency current to the blood vessel, without affecting the skin’s outer layers. The electric energy from the probe is converted into heat, which solidifies the blood in the damaged vessel and collapses the vessel wall. The collapsed vessel is then naturally removed by the body.
Regulations vary by state, but the industryaccepted standard in medical esthetics education is 15 days of combined classroom and clinical hands-on education. Offering and marketing high-tech anti-aging treatments In most states, esthetic professionals are not required to have a medical background to perform many of the popular high-tech anti-aging treatments. Comprehensive education and training are beneficial to understanding the proper techniques and safety protocols associated with these procedures. Completing a medical esthetics course is a much shorter process than becoming a licensed esthetician or cosmetologist. Regulations vary by state, but the industry-accepted standard in medical esthetics education is 15 days of combined classroom and clinical hands-on education. Once you have received the training needed to perform these treatments, the next step is getting the word out! This is where creative marketing comes into play. There are ways to promote your services that don’t rely on traditional advertising and won’t break the bank.
Marketing technique #1: Facebook contests and messaging The first step in Facebook marketing is to create a Facebook page. A Facebook page is different from your personal Facebook profile. Pages allow you to create a professional public presence on the site as a local business, company, organization or brand. Pages can be viewed by anyone, and users can “like” your page in order to receive your news feed and interact with you on Facebook. To encourage more Facebook users to “like” your page, post useful content, including beauty and skin care facts, and links to interesting blogs and articles. Your Facebook page can become your clients go-to site for skin care advice and anti-aging trends. It is also a great place to announce deals and promotions, and hold contests for free or discounted treatments. A quick Google search can turn up some great ideas for Facebook contests and instructions on how to implement them on your page. continues
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You can demonstrate the feel and antiaging effects of a treatment on a small area to show your client how it will benefit their own skin.
Marketing technique #2: Open house/happy skin hour For this marketing technique, take a look at how some successful network-marketing companies have built their brands—with social gatherings! Hosting an “open house” or a “meet and greet” event at your spa is a great way to introduce new clients to your services. Provide a festive atmosphere and plenty of food and drink for your guests to enjoy. Invite current clients and encourage them to bring friends. After you have given your guests a chance to mix and mingle with the spa staff, give a presentation on your new offerings. Be sure to include a live demonstration of one of the treatments.
Marketing technique #3: special occasion deals To introduce clients to a new procedure, offer them free mini-treatments in honor of a special day. This can be a holiday, the anniversary of your business or even the first day of a new season. You can demonstrate the feel and anti-aging effects of a treatment on a small area to show your client how it will benefit their own skin.
While the Fountain of Youth may be a myth, procedures utilizing the latest technology are capable of turning back the clock and providing men and women with the younger-looking skin they want. With proper education, these procedures are simple to perform and produce noticeable results. It is an exciting time to be in the beauty industry. The development of new procedures and technologies provide you with an amazing opportunity to grow your business, build stronger client relationships and expand your earning potential. n
Louis Silberman is president of National Laser Institute, a leading school specializing in cosmetic laser education. An expert in medical esthetics, Silberman developed the most highly respected laser training programs in North America. For more information, visit www.nlionline.com or call 800.982.6817.
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YOUTHFUL TRIO Give your clients young, healthy and vibrant skin with DermaSwiss’ anti-aging routine. The vitamin cocktail of antioxidants, folic acid and horse chestnut prevents dry skin and anti-inflammatory effects, and strengthens capillary walls. Protect the skin against extrinsic factors and chronogical aging with the Derma Cleanser, Dermatonic for skin tone and D’Aging cellular nutrient complex for nourishment and protection. www.dermaswiss.com
The website of an unauthorized online dealer was mistakenly mentioned in connection with DR. GRANDEL of Germany in the 2012 August edition of LNE & Spa. The website printed on page 107 with product news introducing DR. GRANDEL’s Elements of Nature Hyaluron leads to an unauthorized dealer pretending to belong to the DR. GRANDEL company. LNE & Spa advises all readers to be skeptical about websites that do not have an imprint or physical address. Unauthorized and possibly fraudulent online sales are causing considerable damage to dealers who are doing legitimate business with beauty salons and spas. The DR. GRANDEL company is taking legal action against these unfair dealers behind the website featuring their products. The authorized importing distributors within the U.S. are: Europacific Inc., Las Vegas, NV (www. europacificinc.com); Biokosmetik of Texas Inc., Stafford, TX (www.biokosmetiks.com); Esthetic Supply Company, Orangeburg, SC (www.estheticsupply.net); and Vivari Corporation, New York, NY (www.vivari.us). DR. GRANDEL’s own website can be reached at www.grandel-usa.com.
MISUSE OF TRADEMARK RIGHTS!
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
POTENT BLEND LIPOSOME AND PEPTIDE SYNERGY AQUAPIEL, one of the products from DERMCLAR’s new Liposomes Serums line, combines the collagen stimulating benefit of peptides and the deeper dermal penetration of liposomes, delivering true skin transformation, says the company. AQUAPIEL contains greater concentrations of hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, DNA, BioCol Marine and the epidermal skin tightening peptide, Lipomoist 2036. www.dermclarusa.com
Reveal youthful radiance with the AQUAFUSE foam peel from Bio-Therapeutic. The gentle foam blends glycolic and salicylic acids to help exfoliate the skin. It can also be used with ultrasonic exfoliation and wet/dry microdermabrasion. www.bio-therapeutic.com
BRIGHTENING BOOST MassAPeel from Tecniche is the ultimate retinol peel for all, particularly the client with sensitive skin. It activates collagen, increases firmness and fights lines and photodamage, along with three therapeutic brighteners to boost radiance and even skin tone. www.tecniche.com MORE NEWS
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
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STEM CELL SAVVY
THIRST QUENCHER! Hydrate dry skin with the Theraskin Line Repair from Christina Cosmeceuticals, formulated to restore firmness, radiance and youthfulness. The lightweight serum is aimed at reawakening tired, lackluster skin, with visible results in one hour, says the company. Encapsulated hyaluronic acid and exotic natural ingredients work together to minimize the effects of glycation. Theraskin retains nature’s best anti-aging source—water—thereby promoting plump, dewy skin. www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com
A-Stem Factor™ from Lélexo™ utilizes plant stem cells to repair and protect human skin stem cells, says the company. A-Stem Factor™ contains apple stem cells, which reduce wrinkles and soothe inflamed skin. The first active ingredient, PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica, boosts human stem cell production and prevents against visible signs of aging. www.lelexo.com
REWIND AND RECHARGE! The Energizing Extract from Bio Oxygel is a superactivated anti-aging concentrate. It neutralizes free radicals, regenerates cells and restructures the intercellular cement, resulting in a reduction of lines and a radiant complexion, says the company. www.bo2biopeel.com
Sunblock SPF 30 from Amber Products is formulated with titanium dioxide and SPF protection to provide maximum protection from damaging UVA and UVB light that causes skin aging. The lightweight, oil free formula is designed for use on sensitive skin. www.amberproducts.com
FIRM UP FAST SESHA Skin Therapy’s Q-Lift Instant Firming Serum instantly lifts and firms the skin. It contains macrocystic pyrifera, a natural marine algae that smooths away fine lines, and hydrolyzed wheat proteins that enable the skin to retain more moisture. Wheat proteins literally “grab” extract folds in the skin, pull them up and flatten them out for a soft, smooth feel. The Q-Lift Firming Serum also contains a powerful network of antioxidants such as DMAE and vitamins B and C, which work to fight further free radical damage. www.seshaskin.com
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Go as bare as you dare with the Satin Smooth beBareTM Hair Removal System. Formulated with Palm and Soybean oils, the rich texture makes it smooth and spreadable for use on all body parts and all skin and hair types. Satin Smooth beBare provides an easy, comfortable hair removal service so your clients will keep coming back for more!
Feel Beautiful with Satin Smooth
If you are using Nufree Nudesse, try Satin Smooth beBareTM and experience the difference. ©2012 Professional Products Division. For more information on Satin Smooth products, visit our website: www.satinsmooth.com or call our customer service line: 1-800-726-4204 Nufree® and Nudesse® are registered trademarks of Normajean Fusco. • 12SS130382
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spa memberships and loyalty programs
by Dori Soukup
MEMBERSHIPS AND LOYALTY PROgrams have been in existence for years through companies such as Sam’s, Costco, AAA, country clubs and airlines. They have been utilized successfully time and again. Now the spa industry has jumped on the bandwagon. In 2009, Massage Envy opened their first location offering massage memberships, and today they have over 1,000 locations! This is solid evidence that the U.S. population loves to belong to clubs, and being members of an organization. Now there are several other brands launching similar membership programs. How can your spa compete with those types of businesses? The answer is simple; create a unique membership and loyalty program of your own! There are many benefits to offering memberships and loyalty programs. But first, let’s identify the difference between the two. For a membership program, the member agrees to pay the spa a certain amount per month in exchange for receiving a treatment. The monthly fee is charged automatically. A loyalty program is a system in which clients are given rewards for doing business with you repeatedly. Ideally, a spa should have both. The membership ensures a steady cash flow, and the loyalty program ensures retention. The following eight steps are essential components of a unique membership program. 1. Design your program. Decide what type of membership program you want to offer. Don’t get stuck on only one type of service (e.g. massage, facial, etc.). Remember, you want to be unique! You can offer a “De-stress” program that includes massage and other October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
spa treatments with relaxing benefits. An “Acne” program can target adults, teens or both. “Wellness,” “Nutrition,” and “Anti-Aging” are several other concepts you can utilize for loyalty programs. 2. The right price. Don’t worry about being the least expensive spa in business. Focus on the type of experience you offer and introduce added value benefits. You won’t win if you compete based on price alone.
Having a membership management software system is a must. Don’t attempt to launch a program without it. 3. Membership management system. Having a membership management software system is a must. Don’t attempt to launch a program without it. This will assist you with member usage tracking, retention, attrition and overall success. 4. Monthly payment. Automated payment processing capabilities are also very important. Be aware of failed payments. Have a collection process in place for late or delinquent payments. 5. Membership guidelines. Have “Frequently Asked Questions” (FAQs) and answers to all the “What if” questions regarding items such as accruals, cancellations, multiple use, payments and so on. 6. Marketing and launching your membership. Consistently update all of your marketing material, including posters, flyers, membership cards, website, agreements and brochures. 7. Team training. Selling the membership program requires a team effort. Make sure you train your team well, and
set performance expectations and rewards to ensure your success. 8. Track member usage. To ensure a long lifetime value, make sure you track usage. You don’t want members to miss the services included in their package. If they do, the likelihood that they will cancel or decline renewal of their membership is greater. You want them to get into the habit of using their membership on a regular basis. It’s wise to have automated reminder messages to keep members engaged. Loyalty program. The best loyalty programs are simple and easy to understand. The model of the airlines, in which clients earn a point for every mile traveled, is an excellent practice. You can do the same and offer one point for every dollar your guest spends. The more they spend, the more points they accumulate. To redeem points earned, you can create a brochure of items clients can purchase with their points. For example, you can offer branded items such as spa robes, neck wraps, water bottles, wellness books and other fun things that are unique and can’t be found in stores. If you are not offering a membership or loyalty program, I encourage you to start offering both. Tap into these great revenue streams to increase your retention and profits! n
Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks globally in conventions and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at email@example.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 71
BY DONNA DODIER THE BEACH BALL IS DEFLATED AND STORED away, the pool is winterized and covered, and the local seagulls have headed south for the tropical Caribbean beaches. Fall is now upon us with its cool, crisp and invigorating air! The plentiful array of colors from autumn’s box of crayons adorns the trees. The new season is also inevitably an invitation to a multitude of changes within the mind, body and spirit. We eat differently, think differently and feel different in the fall. Yet one thing that doesn’t change is our desire to look and feel amazing, regardless of the season. So the chlorine, sun and summer heat have left us, but our bodies need some prepping for the cooler weather. This means adjusting your nutritional needs, adapting to new time changes and investing in yourself with the assistance of skin and body treatments. These appropriate therapies will guide us on the path to our youthful and vibrant selves.
Weekly or bi-weekly exfoliation of the entire body is recommended all year long, especially in the cooler months. As we age, our cell regeneration process slows down tremendously. The removal of the dry, dead skin cells is an important beginning—as the old skin can accumulate, leaving the body looking and feeling dull and lifeless. We sometimes forget the fact that the skin is the largest body organ, and it is frequently called the “third kidney” in Chinese culture. Fresh, exfoliated skin more readily absorbs serums and moisturizers, which can otherwise be impeded, because unexfoliated skin can block their ability to “get through.” The fall and winter months lack the humidity—our skin’s best friend—for that supple, dewy look. The end result could be disastrous for those who do not properly exfoliate in the cooler, drier months, leading to skin that is red, dry, rashy and rough. There are many ways to properly exfoliate. Dry brushing the body (always in the direction of the heart) is a good start. There are deeper manual exfoliating methods, which utilize crushed apricot kernels, walnut hulls, epsom salts and sugars. These really get the skin and body invigorated, buffed and polished. Be careful with pressure, as everyone has a different level of
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ADAPTATIONS FOR THE NEW SEASON
Exfoliation feels great!
photo: Peter D./Shutterstock.com
tolerance. Sensitive skins need much less pressure, for example, and less abrasive ingredients in the product. Make sure the client has no skin irritations, diseases or issues with their skin being manipulated or touched. ***NOTE: The face should never be exfoliated with too large of a particle; it can scratch the skin and cause irritation, redness and broken capillaries. Non-particle enzyme exfoliation is more gentle and suitable. An example of a simple, inexpensive body scrub recipe would be epsom salt mixed with your favorite massage oil. A drop or two of an essential oil can be added, then the scrub can be used all over, from head to toe. Rinse. Ahhhhh ... feel smooth!
the perfect time to receive infrared treatments. One can actually indulge in multiple treatments every week if they like. The exfoliated skin will purge toxins outwardly, more steadily. Infrared deep sweating is also excellent for addressing
Detoxification is key for every season—infrared packs a punch
overindulgence of food and drink. It has been noted that nicotine, as well as excess salts, fluids, alcohol and heavy metals have been found in the sweat that has been analyzed from an infrared sauna. The darker days can yield seasonal affective disorder (SAD), which is caused by light deprivation. Infrared has been shown to soothe and relax the body, yet elevate a person’s sense of well-being. It enhances the immune system, balances the autonomic nervous system, improves oxygenation, relieves internal congestion, speeds metabolism, relaxes muscular aches and pains, alkalizes the body, increases circulation, helps edema, burns calories, increases energy and clears the mind. When I demonstrate infrared’s calorie burning, skin cleansing, toxin flushing and fat loss benefits, the therapists smile and think about how to use the cool weather and holiday season to jump start their newfound treatment service.
Pairing exfoliation with specific body treatments can assist the client in feeling their best during the chilly season. One specific treatment modality is infrared. The anti-aging, mental and physical benefits of these invisible warming rays have been astounding. The conventional box saunas and individual lay down saunas are steadily entering the market. If space is available, the “4 x 4 standing” infrared saunas offer an advantage over conventional steam and dry heat models, in that infrared penetrates much more deeply, in turn reaching the levels of the skin where toxins are stored. We build these toxins every day, from season to season. For the therapist with limited space, there are infrared body treatment systems that are more involved than a service, whereby a client is assisted into the sauna to spend a period of time. Relaxing supine positional systems are now available, allowing for therapists to perform multiple services on a client. For many, it is far more comfortable to have the head exposed, the ability to lie horizontally, and no uncomfortable hard surfaces or claustrophobic feeling. This option is great for the space restricted spa, as the system can be stored under a massage table. It gives all the benefits that a stand up sauna offers—just a different method of application. This system is often computerized, and involves applying detoxifying essential oil creams and lymphatic stimulation. The beginning of a new season is October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
INFRARED HAS BEEN SHOWN TO SOOTHE AND RELAX THE BODY, YET ELEVATE A PERSON’S SENSE OF WELL-BEING.
Do not compromise nutrition in any season Our eating patterns change each season. The warmer months tend to be filled with the wonderful abundance of summer fruits, cool green salads and lots of hydrating, electrolyte enhanced specialty waters. The occasional burger or hot dog does make its way into our diet, but even that is not really “heavy.” The arrival of the cooler months invites more sugars, carbohydrates and little green monsters of the season—cookies, candies, hot continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 73
spa|body adaptations for the new season
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Carpe diem: seize the day! As you prepare the client’s mind and body for the cooler months ahead, look your best by treating your body as a whole. Exfoliate for detoxification, absorption of moisturizers and keeping your pores clear of dry, flaky skin. Your winter self-tanner and makeup will look more like a dewy glow—rather than a chaotic, uneven streak of color. Use infrared to your advantage for its many health benefits—assisting in water retention, fat loss and purging the skin tissues of toxins. Add in a great nutritional plan, and you are on your way to a healthy, beautiful body and great looking skin! After all, you are a walking example of beauty and health for your guests. n Donna Dodier is a licensed esthetician in Florida and New England. She is an educator, writer, lecturer and consultant. Dodier is an expert on the anti-aging benefits of nutraceuticals and holistic alternatives for the skin and body, both for humans and animals. She can be reached at 561.886.8427 or via email at firstname.lastname@example.org.
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toddies and festive beverages—that lead to that little headache the next day. Those visions of sugar plums dancing in our heads eventually end up dancing on our hips and thighs—a result of weight gain. Educate and prepare your clients before the party season gears up! Provide information to your clients on how to build their immune system by continually incorporating fruits, vegetables and healthy grains. Due to less sunlight and a change of diet, the cooler weather often brings with it seasonal depression and lowered energy levels. Try supplementing with vitamins D3, C, B12, B6 and folic acid, along with omega-3 fatty acids for overall heart health and stiff joints. Use powdered greens and clear fibers mixed with water or a favorite juice. These can assist the body with regularity. Understand that keeping the bowels moving is very important. Chronic constipation will promote fatigue, lowered immunity, cellulite and acne. If you are irregular, toxins stay with you, which causes feelings of fullness, bloating and sluggishness. Sluggish bowels do not allow nutritious foods to be absorbed as well as they should be. I cannot stress enough how too much sugar wreaks havoc on our bodies. It actually causes inflammatory responses to the entire body system, promotes brain fog in the low stages of the glucose dips, makes joint inflammation worse, causes highs and lows in your glucose levels and is even attributed to the high triglycerides and bad cholesterol. Try to eat sugar in moderation. Your body will thank you for it.
Please visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Philadelphia, PA at booth 116
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PATH GROWING YOUR CAREER
IN SPA MANAGEMENT
Part I: Climbing the corporate ladder “I love being in a corporate environment,” says Amanda Anderson, director of products and services for Red Door Spas and veteran of Marriott, Hilton and the Ritz Carlton. “Things move at a quick pace, but there are systems in place.” Opportunities abound for qualified spa directors. Yet gaining the right set of skills to enter the corporate workforce can be challenging. A new report by SRI International addressing market gaps was released this spring, based on research from Global Spa & Wellness Summit, Spa Management Workforce and Education. According to this report, a good spa manager/director must have both a “head” and a “heart” for the spa. “Spa managers/directors who are promoted upward within a spa company (especially from therapist
positions) usually lack the ‘hard skills’ and business acumen, while spa managers/directors hired from outside the business often lack the ‘soft skills’ and deep understanding of spa.” “Most spa directors agree that a deep understanding of spa is key,” says Anderson. “You need to study some modality of spa therapy to be a well-rounded spa operator.” Strong communication and leadership skills are also crucial. “It is very important to listen to everyone’s voice and tailor your communication style to the many different personalities that work in spas,” says Kristi Dickinson, spa director at Montage Deer Valley. Acting as “diplomat” is one of the more challenging parts of the job. “As a spa manager, I was beholden to three ‘bosses’—the guest, corporate management and my staff,” says former spa director Peggy Francis, now a spa consultant with Francis & Alexander. “It was my responsibility to serve all three.”
Five characteristics of successful spa directors 1. Genuine passion for the spa. Most people enter the spa industry because they have a passion for spa and feel a “calling” for the values that spas represent. “Spa is a way of life that I embrace with my mind, body and soul,” says Ann Brown,
BY NANCY GRIFFIN Page 76 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
DO YOU DESIRE A CAREER IN SPA MANAGEMENT? How do you get your foot in the door with a large hotel company? How do you learn the skills to operate your own successful spa business? These questions and more will be answered in our two-part series on career opportunities in spa management. Part 1 focuses on the corporate path. Part 2 will focus on day spa ownership and the entrepreneurial path.
THE BEST SPA MANAGERS HAVE SUPERB COMMUNICATION AND INTERPERSONAL SKILLS.
spa director at Spa Shiki and principal at Spa Insight Solutions. “I’ve never considered this work.” 2. Thirst for knowledge. “I love to learn,” says Julie RaistrickTao, former spa director of Montage Laguna Beach. “I was relentless in my quest for new knowledge. This meant I read voraciously, connected with others and reached out to mentors.” 3. A penchant for people. The best spa managers have superb communication and interpersonal skills. “It is so fulfilling to work in an environment where everyone is recognized for our role in making positive shifts in the lives of others,” says Dickinson. 4. A desire to give back. Top spa directors are active in the spa community and generous with their time. Many of them mentor up-and-comers in the profession, and volunteer with industry associations. “When the offer came to move from the treatment room into management, I knew it was the chance to expand my vision into 20 pairs of hands rather than one,” says Francis, who began her career as a massage therapist. 5. A strong work ethic. Good spa managers are not afraid of hard work. They thrive on challenges and embrace change. The long hours and geographic relocation required of spa directors can be difficult for those trying to balance a career with the demands of a personal life and family. Spa management provides ample opportunities for upward mobility and financial rewards. As you can see from our success stories, a career in corporate spa management is within your grasp.
Spa director stats *Source: SRI International • 80 percent are female. • The majority (72 percent) are 26-45 years old. • 4 percent have a degree in spa management. • 40 percent have previously worked in a spa therapist position. • The top 14 percent earn more than 100K. The majority (44 percent) earn between 40K and 80K. Most important skills for succeeding as a spa manager • Leadership. • Communication and interpersonal skills. • Problem-solving skills. “The 6 Pinnacles” of spa management 1. Strategic planning skills. 2. IT skills. October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
3. Public relations/promotional skills. 4. Revenue management skills. 5. Legal/regulatory compliance. 6. Financial management/accounting skills.
Jeremy McCarthy Current position: Director of global spa development and operations at Starwood Hotels & Resorts. Career path: Personal trainer; resort activities director. Biggest learning curve: Learning how to manage a team of people. Being a leader is something I am McCARTHY learning more about every day. Accolades: Author of The Psychology of Spas and Wellbeing; former ISPA board member. Advice for up-and-comers: Figure out where you want to go, and then think about what you need to learn to get there. Most importantly, think about your unique strengths. The spa world is a competitive industry, so what are you going to bring to it that sets you apart from everyone else?
Ann Brown Current position: Spa director at Spa Shiki, principal for Spa Insight Solutions. Career path: Nail technician; esthetician; spa director; spa consultant. Accolades: Board member for ASTECC; former ISPA board member. BROWN Biggest learning curve: Finding ways to empower each therapist and staff member to educate guests on how to improve their quality of life through spa therapy and philosophy, teaching my team to spread a message of wellness and prevention, and promoting lifestyle choices that have made a profound difference in my life. Advice for up-and-comers: When I was trying to move up the ranks, I took on many tasks to gain knowledge. Having a “yes” attitude lets your manager know you are willing to work hard. Always have a professional attitude and attire—you will work your way up the ranks that much quicker.
Kristi Dickinson Current position: Spa director for Montage Deer Valley. Career path: Various roles in hotel management. Accolades: Master’s degree in hospitality management from University of Nevada, Las Vegas; board member for ASTECC. Biggest learning curve: Learning to communicate with the many different personalities that work in spas. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 77
spa|growing your career path
Advice for up-and-comers: Get out of your office and spend time with your team and guests. Knowing what is going on in the operation is paramount to your success and the evolution of the business. Take time to be inspired regularly. I have received some of my best inspiration by obDICKINSON serving other industries. Travel to foreign destinations. Observe how they serve and nurture. What excites them? Travel takes us into a different environment, which allows us to be more creative.
Amanda Anderson Career path: Front desk personnel; assistant spa director; spa director; educator. Current position: Director of products and services for Red Door Spas. Accolades: Licensed massage therapist, certified Ayurvedic practitioner. Biggest learning curve: Finding a balance between making the
therapist comfortable and designing treatments that sell at a price that makes corporate happy. That combination translates into guest satisfaction. Advice for up-and-comers: Know your competitive set. Study pricing and treatments in your region to keep track of how things are trending. Don’t be afraid of the numbers. Embrace your analytical side, as spreadsheets will be part of your life. Network and ask for help. We are a tight-knit industry! n
Nancy Griffin has been committed to spa education and marketing for 20 years, starting with earning a master’s degree in hospitality and management from Cornell University. She later founded SpaTrade, SpaExec and Contento Marketing Group, and recently launched Bloom™, Effective Training Solutions for Spas and Salons. Griffin is an advisory board member of University of California, Irvine’s spa and hospitality management program, and a board member of the Advanced Spa Therapies Education Certification Council.
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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
Each of TEI Spa’s Revitalizing Misting Sprays (in Lavender, Rosewater and Lemongrass varieties) can be spritzed on the face or body for a rejuvenating scent and feel, particularly during the warm summer months. These aromatic delights have multiple uses, as a quick skin pick-me-up, toner or tool for setting makeup. Spritz it on for instant refreshment, moisture and protection. www.teispa.com
STEAMY COMFORT The BEAUTY-PRO Hot Towel Steamer is a modern, easy and efficient way to remove products during beauty treatments or traditional barber wet shaves. Don’t rely on water bowls and sponges to remove product during facial treatments, as this can lead to the buildup of bacteria in your water bowl; hot towels are a relaxing alternative. The BEAUTY-PRO Hot Towel Steamer unit holds up to six facial towels (30 x 30 cm.) or facial wrap towels. This is a must have accessory for barbers who offer wet shaves, as the hot towels can be wrapped around the face to soften hair prior to the shaving process, which softens and calms the skin after the face has been shaved. www.beauty-pro.co.uk/
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
BODY, EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLY PRODUCTS
BODY BOOSTER The Bio-Therapeutic AntiAging Skin Spa is excited to introduce the Invigorating Asian Bodywork Massage onto their treatment menu. It blends energizing massage therapy with customized, targeted body treatments using microcurrent, Bio-Dermology™ or LED therapy. www.bio-therapeutic.com
REVIVE THE SENSES!
SWEET AND SENSATIONAL The Luminosa Body Scrub is an all natural, sugar based body scrub infused with 24 karat gold that both exfoliates and moisturizes for soft, dewy looking skin that feels amazing! The sweet treat is available in brown sugar, tangerine and lavender. www.luminosabodyscrub.com
The Evia Blue Body Scrub by Terra Dolce revives tired, dull looking skin all over the body. It removes dead skin cells, promotes circulation and boosts new skin turnover. The supportive, restorative properties behind the juniper berry are the key to the effects of this formula. www.terradolcespa.com
MORE NEWS www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 79
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photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com
by Melissa Picoli
THERE IS SOMETHING INHERENTLY lovely about our clients dedicating their time and trust to taking care of themselves—and choosing to use our services as beauty professionals to do so. This is an intimate relationship, and one that should never be taken for granted or abused. There is a huge misconception in our profession that retail sales damage the relationship between the client and the professional. Not true! A strong retail system is crucial to a successful beauty enterprise. Without retail, a spa misses out on margins that enable it to acquire nicer amenities such as towels, fancy drinks, better lighting and so forth. Without retail sales, the books rarely balance. A successful salon or spa cannot thrive merely on the percentage of services it splits with therapists. Most importantly, without retail sales, your client does not have anything at home that reminds them on a daily basis how much they love coming to see you! The reality is that most spa clients love health and beauty products. According to Jeni Garrett, the founder, president and CEO of The Woodhouse Day Spa Corporation, 45 percent of annual sales are from massage and body treatments. Most of their retail sales come from estheticians and hair stylists, with only five percent of the sales from massage therapists. The Woodhouse Day Spa is working on increasing retail sales in the massage department through promotion, working with their vendors and developing employee incentive programs. Massage is a primary treatment in our industry; there are incredible opportunities available to promote wellness and healthy lifestyles through retail. Increasing your retail sales is a triple win. Your establishment wins, you win and your client wins. October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
1. Get excited about ingredients! Get a better understanding of the difference between a simple, lovely body butter and a moisturizer filled with active skin-enhancing ingredients. Nowadays, products are filled with amazing technologies, and it’s part of our job as therapists to understand the landscape enough to share it with our clients. 2. Take care of your own skin! Take notice of how your own skin responds to different products. Think about the little nooks that age the most, such as wrists, knees and chest. Connect with how much you enjoy the ritual of taking care of your whole skin, head-to-toe, and how you would love for your client to indulge in that ritual themselves. When you truly enjoy the product you are selling, the sale feels genuine. The easiest thing to sell is something you feel like you are sharing. 3. Ask management about numbers. A successful artist understands both the art and the business. It is the same for therapists. Our service is our art, but numbers pay the bills. Look around and notice the details in your workplace that you didn’t pay for. Are there new towels? Have the carpets recently been cleaned? Have fresh flowers been delivered? Retail products are part of what keeps brickand-mortar shops running. 4. Connect with other spa professionals. Seek out product lines that everyone on your team likes, and present them to management. If several of you assert that you could definitely sell these products, chances are they’ll be on your shelves fast. If there are retail products you are asked to move that you really don’t like, make an honest case for it— clients love it! 5. Introduce products as a way to finish a treatment. This is probably the easiest way for a massage therapist to
5 keys to success in retailing
present an item. Here is an example of the language you can use: “I’d like you to drink more water and take it easy for the rest of the day. Your body deserves a break. I’m going to finish our treatment with a deeply moisturizing blend of botanical oils, which will take care of a few dry patches I noticed. Let me know if you’d like further ideas for boosting your skin’s moisture retention.” Our clients depend on our expertise as health and beauty therapists to enhance and support their skin. Products are part of that relationship. You are not simply selling a product. You are introducing them to the timeless ritual of taking better care of themselves. You are sharing— and of all the rituals that can be shared, vibrant skin is certainly a worthy one. n
Melissa Picoli is the founder of BijaBody health+beauty, a line of anti-aging body care and beauty tea blends. She has more than a decade of experience in the beauty industry as an esthetician, product developer, speaker, blogger and consultant. For more information, visit www.BijaBody.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 81
photo: Piotr Marcinski/Shutterstock.com
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transitional thinking for
A TRANSITIONAL TIME OF YEAR
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
into other segments of the market? Maybe your client is in transition from lighter enzyme treatments to progressive chemical exfoliants. Could you transition your client from superficial peels to a more clinical peel? They could even be transitioning into the medical arena and exploring the vast array of treatment modalities that today’s medspa has to offer. To transition clients effectively, you must become knowledgeable about services that you may not even perform. A well-rounded skin care therapist should have a well versed and educated understanding of other services, including the med-spa environment. Here are some tips that can benefit your clients’ skin and your bottom line during this transitional time of year.
MOVING INTO THE NEXT SEASON
Transitional seasonal skin care tips •
As the seasons change, your guests’ skin will follow suit, likely becoming drier in the fall and winter months. Your goal should be to combat trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Consider transitioning your clients to using a creamy cleanser to combat seasonal dryness. On the other hand, fall is also the perfect time to reassess your clients’ home care routines to include a progressive cleanser continues
BY DAVE WAGGONER
I LOVE THIS TIME OF YEAR ... COOLER DAYS and crisp autumn nights! The nights come earlier and last longer. As the days grow shorter and the shadows longer, I am reminded that October is a transitional month. These last months of the year are crucial to your future planning and marketing for success. As you become aware of and embrace this transitory time of year, you can look at it as a time to promote new client growth, increase your retail sales and encourage your existing clients to explore a new series of services. That seems like a lot to manage! But in the skin care industry, we have a lot on our side, especially when it comes to product choices. Just think of all the products on the market that you may already use and enjoy. The fall season is synonymous with the aromas of pumpkin, apples and mulled spices, and is a natural choice for skin care. Many commonly used spices can be blended in a mask base. The mask base can vary between oils, yogurt and clay. The combination of natural vegetable and fruit enzymes typically provides a gentle exfoliation while nourishing and repairing damaged skin with age-fighting antioxidants. Delighting the clients’ senses is second nature to the experienced therapist. But can you use your skills to transition clients
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business|transitional thinking for a transitional time of year
FALL IS THE PERFECT TIME TO REVIEW YOUR RETAIL STOCK AND GIFT CERTIFICATE POLICIES. ARE YOU ALL STOCKED UP AND READY TO GO FOR THE BUSY HOLIDAY GIFT CERTIFICATE SEASON?
ing an event where you provide each guest with a complimentary skin analysis along with product recommendations appropriate for the new season. This event also gives you a chance to introduce and recommend any new products and treatment series. • Host an event at which you help your clients reevaluate their current lineup of products. Have them bring in all the items they use in their regime, and go through them one by one. Notice the condition of the product. Is it out of date? Are they using a product that is contributing to their underlying conditions? This event should focus on building relationships and transitioning clients into your chosen professional product lineup. • Transition your clients over to more progressive treatments during a cooler time of year. This is a good rule of thumb for most treatment modalities. Clinical services are more comfortable in the autumn. The risks associ-
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ated with more progressive treatments are reduced at this time. Of course, your clients still need to be sunscreen compliant, but the harshness of the summer sun has relented and given way to a more gentle time of year for the skin. Use that knowledge in deciding which treatment series to recommend to your clients. • Now is the time to patch test your clients. Safety and satisfaction never go out of style. • Fall is the perfect time to assess your gift certificate policies. Are you all stocked up and ready to go for the busy holiday season? The old adage pertains: You can’t sell them if you don’t have them! • Fall is a great time to restock your makeup and nail polish collection. Are your retail shelves lacking deep colors? Pack away the cotton candy pinks and pastels and bring forward the burgundys, plums or even a chocolate brown. The latter is bold, yet easier to wear than black. • Encourage your clients to invest in a new hand cream. Your clients’ hands (and yours) are in and out of water on a very regular basis, so you need to apply moisturizer more frequently to your hands than the rest of your body. That is why it is so important to keep a hand cream in your handbag. When you are out and about and need to wash your hands, you’ll have the cream in your possession instead of out of reach at your sink back home. Of course, there should be one kept there as well. When you put yourself in the role of leader and “skin coach,” your spa guests willingly follow your advice because you have built up their trust. Good practitoners leave no question unanswered when it comes to client safety and compliance. Always remember—transition happens in every season! n Dave Waggoner is a licensed massage therapist, esthetician and certified laser technician, and the director of education and public relations at Skin Script Skin Care in Tempe, AZ. Waggoner has a passion for all things educational, and he develops advanced classes for the skin care industry. For more information, visit Skin Scripts at www.skinscriptrx.com. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
original photo: Olga Zaretskaya/Shutterstock.com
to prepare their skin for an upcoming treatment series. • Fall is a great time to promote a treatment series. By promoting services in a package, you are getting your clients to commit to you and your service. Clients who book a series will have a superior outcome when the series is complete. Everyone wins! • Transition your clients into other products and services by reanalyzing their skin. Make it a goal to get up close and personal with your clients’ skin. You could consider host-
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by Jennifer Schoenthal
THE BEAUTY, SPA AND WELLNESS industries are forever continuing to grow and change. You can add new procedures and devices to your practice on a regular basis. To stay current with the industry, salon and spa professionals must be willing
the products being used are difficult to underwrite from an insurance perspective. For instance, hCG can be used as a weight loss treatment, as well as to treat a hormone imbalance. This is much different from the traditional use of Botox, or a dermal filler that had one approved use and an accepted treatment protocol. With hormone treatments and weight loss, we see that facilities and techni-
When adding new devices or procedures to your business, make sure that you can properly insure them at a cost that is not prohibitive.
to regularly reinvent themselves. As we progress into the latter stage of the year, the trend we are seeing is a move from invasive medical procedures to esthetic wellness. Facilities are focusing on ways to find long term, repeat clients who are looking to improve their overall health, wellness and appearance. Weight loss and hormone treatments, manufactured and private label product lines and light devices that can be used for a variety of treatments are being endorsed into insurance policies. This often means an increase in premium costs, and possibly the need to move insurance carriers. Weight loss and hormone treatments can be a bit tricky to add to your practice and obtain insurance for. The biggest problem with these treatments is that
cians are attempting to customize the treatment to each individual. This opens the facility up to an increase in possible claims, since there is no set protocol if something goes wrong—and there may not be a historical reference as to side effects and healing times. There are many ways to increase passive income for your facility. One of the most popular ways to achieve this is to offer your own product line of skin care and topical makeup. Typically a facility can contact a product manufacturer who creates and manufactures the product line in their name. It is a common misconception that if the facility does not manufacture the product in question and there is an injury or complaint regarding it, claims and liability will fall back on the
manufacturer. Unfortunately, people sue the name on the label. While you can certainly go back and bring suit against the manufacturer of the product, this is an expensive and time consuming process. Subrogation of claims can cost more than it would to defend the claim if you were the actual manufacturer. Another factor to consider is where the manufacturer is located. If you choose to contract with a manufacturer outside of the United States, the chances of subrogating against them if something goes wrong is slim to none. The laws in other countries are generally not similar to those in the United States, so the manufacturer may not have any responsibility to defend themselves if something goes wrong with the products you are getting from them. Unless you are going to be making a significant amount of income from the sale of your own products, it is best to retail someone else’s well known product line. A typical day spa insurance policy does not automatically include coverage for products manufactured by you or for you. In most cases there is an exclusion for this exposure. You will need to contact your insurance agent to see if this can be added onto your current policy, or if you need to purchase a separate policy to cover this additional exposure. Any time you purchase a light based device, it is best to find out two important things before you sign the contract. continues
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photo: Maksim Toome/Shutterstock.com
claims and liability
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1. Can I legally operate this device within my state? 2. Can I find insurance for the use of this device within my practice? While you may be able to operate the equipment that you purchase, you may not be able to insure it. Ask the salesperson for their insurance connection. If they tell you that there is “no need
for insurance,” or that they “don’t ever see any claims,” run! If in fact the equipment really is that safe, the company putting out the device should easily have insurance brokers to refer their clients to. Call your insurance agent to find out if they are able to secure coverage for the procedure—and at what price. Do not assume that coverage can be
added. This may lead your premiums to soar, your coverage not being renewed or even cancelled midterm! There are many brokers now who specialize in the medi-spa and salon markets, so it is best to be with an insurance professional who knows the industry. You are in business to make a profit, so if the cost to insure something means you cannot make money offering the service, you may want to rethink your purchase. Remember that being new often does not indicate that something is safe. Products and devices need time to work out the kinks similar to what happens when a new car is introduced on the market. For the first year or two, some items are on the market for what turns out to be an experimental time. It is smart to let someone else work the bugs out before you adopt it. With a new product or device, problems could equal liability claims. It is good business practice to reinvent your business to keep up with the constantly changing industry. However, one should not sacrifice safety and insurance to keep up with trends. It is important to have long term plans to ensure that your business is viable and profitable now and in the future. When adding new devices or procedures to your business, make sure that you can properly insure them at a cost that is not prohibitive. n
Jennifer Schoenthal has been in the insurance industry for nearly 20 years. She joined Professional Program Insurance Brokerage (PPIB) in Novato, CA in 2005 to lead the expansion of their medispa and body art programs. She is now a wellknown speaker and writer within the medi-spa, beauty and body art industries, providing advice on how to develop a successful business and implement procedures to increase loss control and prevention. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #209 on reader service card
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EASY TIPS FOR RETAIL MERCHANDISING
SHOW ME THE
BY TEDDY LESTER
“Wow, that display was cool!” “I can’t wait to go back to see what they have next time.” “Every time I go there, she has new stuff!” “From the moment I walked in, I felt relaxed.” These are the things you are sure to hear people say about your business when you have mastered the art of retail merchandising. Retail merchandising not only helps your bottom line, it also allows your clients to take the spa experience home. Imagine if you were not in your spa retail area and a client walked in unattended. Would he or she understand the products without any help? Would they easily be able to identify which skin care product fit their needs? Would they realize those robes or sheets were the same ones used in the treatment room? Are the products accessible so that the customer can see, touch or smell them? These are some of the questions you should be thinking about as you merchandise your retail space. Let’s discuss some of the ideas and solutions that may be helpful for you as we all gear up for the holiday retail rush. We know that we all want our fair share of the profits, especially for those unique items that only a spa offers; remember that we are all spa experts, so let’s be sure to use that to our advantage! First off, be sure that the client can easily see that you offer products that are spa related—and not the same stuff they can find at the big box retailer down the street! In order to accomplish this, make sure your retail space, no matter how large or small, is clean, clutter-free and open for business. The customer should be able to easily maneuver throughout the space while she is searching for that perfect anti-aging product that will help her look good for her holiday party, and she should easily see the “Oprah’s Favorite Things” sign at the counter when she signs in, which leads her to a quick point of sale purchase for her best friend. Your vendor partners offer so many tools to help aid you in your success. Be sure to make use of counter cards, “as seen in” photos and shelf talkers, plan-o-grams to help you arrange the products and tester samples of them. Our industry is very much a sensory experience, so make sure your customers can easily smell, touch and see the products. Also, if you happen to have a flat screen television or digital frame, be sure to ask your vendor for images to help convey seasonal promotions. Digital merchandisers are great on the counter, the relaxation or quiet room, and on sinks in the locker or changing areas. Another great merchandising tip is to create themes or a grouping of products that help the client to visualize an opportunity. For example, for the holiday party theme, group together anti-aging and tightening products, bronzers, makeup compacts, eye or lash products accompanied by compelling visuals. Show before and after photos of some of your clients to help the consumer understand how to “get the look.” Be sure to use props such continues
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
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business|show me the money as family holiday photos and champagne glasses, and empty beautifully wrapped packages to attract attention. Colorful and elegant gift boxes make great platforms to display and glorify products. If you do not already have one, create an inexpensive spotlight table. Go to your local department store and buy a small wooden table that you can cover in a nice tablecloth or wrap up like a present. Next, stop by a home store and pick up a clip-on light that can be used to emphasize the table. Make sure you place the table in a well-trafficked area and choose a high margin product that you know is going to sell. Set up a photo, shelf talker or must-have holiday list item sign and voila! You instantly have a spotlight table. Great lighting is key to selling retail products, as customers won’t buy what they cannot see. In order to boost your retail sales, be sure to have some lamps and clip on lights that will highlight products and create a nice ambiance in your spa retail area. So many times we place products on dark shelves or behind a dark counter; instead, shine a light on the situation and bask in your newfound retail sales. A strategically placed light may get a client to walk into a corner of your retail area she has never been before. Shining a light on a featured product or slow mover should help you make room for new items.
Finally, be sure to keep it fresh. Many of you have clients that frequently visit your spa and enjoy looking around for new products. Be sure to move displays around every couple of weeks and add new products as often as you can. Rotate and spotlight tables or counter products every week or so as well. Change counter cards and new visuals frequently. Many times you will not have new products, but these maneuvers will make it appear to your clients that you do. After a couple of months, you will realize which part of your retail area brings in the most dollars, and you will be able to maximize your opportunities. Wishing you all the best for a successful retail season! n Teddy Lester is the vice president of brands and education for Universal Companies. He understands the importance of building long lasting relationships with clients, and is dedicated to helping the sales team at Universal Companies provide excellent customer service. Lester is also committed to working with Universal Companies’ education team to develop a best-in-class educational outreach program for customers. He can be reached at email@example.com.
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by David Suzuki
business|connectivity EVERY MORNING AT AROUND 9:30 a.m., a line begins to form outside of a dingy, rundown building in the industrial area of downtown Seattle, WA. There is no signage on the outside of the building, and the crowd blocks any view of verbiage that is on the door. The line consists of a diverse assortment of people, including construction workers, business women and men, students, policemen and tourists. What could be so intriguing in this part of town, at a building whose safety ap-
to do with the location, the building or the nonexistent signage. This amazing little business has become the success that it is the old fashioned way—by supplying a great product with even better customer service.
Word of mouth The fact of the matter is that word of mouth and referral business is a thousand times more powerful than any marketing that money can buy. Hearing a person that you trust rant and rave about
Passion is an energy that radiates from a person, and is intuitively recognized by others. It is what attracts those who believe in this sometimes unspoken message and magnetizes their loyalty.
Passion A commonality of every successful person and business is an intense internal passion. It is this passion that supplies them with a seemingly endless drive of obsessive energy, and defies all logic. Passion is an energy that radiates from a person, and is intuitively recognized by others. It is what attracts those who believe in this sometimes unspoken message and magnetizes their loyalty. Passion, after all, is the core and epicenter of a leader, and ultimately inspires others to follow suit, motivating customers to patronize a business.
photo: Sergej Khakimullin/Shutterstock.com
Specialize pears questionable, to create such a stir every day? As it turns out, it is a traditional Italian sandwich shop that specializes in gourmet-cured meats. It is family owned and operated, has a retail floor space no larger than the length of a car, and is only open from 11:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. each day. How does this happen? How does a business thrive with so much energy and enthusiasm that customers are forming a line like this to order food an hour and a half before the doors even open? As it turns out, this business does no marketing at all aside from maintaining a very simple and informal website. It does not take a rocket scientist to recognize that their success has nothing October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
how good the food is at this little sandwich shop is enough to make people line up around the block for more than an hour, waiting for their opportunity to order one of these famous sandwiches. The sandwich was outstanding, the service even better, and the uniqueness of this small little family run business is something that could never be duplicated. While businesses like this are spinning their wheels and paying the big bucks to find the next crafty marketing gimmick for their business, this little gold mine explodes with business and profit every morning starting at 11:00 a.m., and pays nothing for marketing expenses! They simply do what they do best with honest passion.
If you look at any successful business, they are all specialists in one way or another. Whether it is cured meats, baseball bats, art or skin therapy, those who specialize with passion, persistence and diligence will succeed. They become well known for their trade and within their industry, and are the “go to” business that is often referred to, even by their competitors. When it comes to Italian style sandwiches made with authentically cured meats, there is only one place in Seattle to go. Being a passionate specialist is so intriguing to our culture today that more than half of our television programming now revolves around championing these continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 93
businesses. Whether it is cakes, guns, motorcycles, furniture restoration, pawn shops, alligator hunting or gold mining, there is a television program that captures it, and an audience that is chomping at the bit to watch and learn more about the specialty.
go to person for the group when they need something. Even more so, strong connectors actually guide the group obsessively, without being asked. For example, it is the connector that calls you at 9:15 a.m. and convinces you to leave work and wait in line with her for
Real connectors do not do what they do for pay or compensation; they do what they do because it is who they are and how they function.
I know what you are thinking right about now … I have passion and I am a specialist, and I do not have a television program, or a line around my building with customers anxiously awaiting the daily opening of my business. What gives? Although being a passionate specialist is a key component of success, it is not the only component. Successful businesses are easy to recognize when they have reached success with lines around the corner, but what did they do to make this happen? What was the bridge from an empty storefront to the bustling business that it is today?
Connectors Connectors are defined as individuals who do just that—connect people, places, and things together. Real connectors do not do what they do for pay or compensation; they do what they do because it is who they are and how they function. As a matter of fact, most connectors do not even realize their influence. Connectors are everywhere around you, in one form or another. If you think about your group of friends, you can usually trace most of the relationships back to one single connector who brought the group together. If you think about where your friend group works out, finds the best bargains on hair care products, meets for coffee or gets their facials, it again can usually be traced back to one single connector. Just like every friend group has a wild one and a practical one in the bunch, the connector is the natural
an hour and a half to get a traditional Italian sandwich. This is something that you never would have done without your connector, but certainly something that you will repeat on your own!
Identifying connectors Connectors are usually so enthusiastic and obsessive about their interests of the day that you would think that they are making a commission from somebody somewhere. Ironically, they are not. Connectors do what they do because it is who they are—they are intensely passionate—with splash of obsessiveness. Having a formal program and/or being paid to connect would change the entire situation for them and make things weird. Do they like being recognized as somebody special when they walk into your business? For sure. Do they feel good when they are called by name? Certainly. And do they like good deals and special perks? Absolutely. In short, connectors like to feel important and inspired. Recognizing and identifying connectors is not a science, and in the end, it is a bit of a gamble. Because of this, and the fact that there is no “set” format for connectors, most businesses shy away from the idea, and instead pour their money in to pre-formatted marketing gimmicks that seem safe and predictable. What is predictable about traditional marketing gimmicks is that you will pay for the expense regardless of whether or not you receive a single new customer. It is true that all marketing is
a gamble. The only vested interest of a connector is connecting the people around her with whatever she is passionate about. Working with connectors, regardless of the size of your business, will play a significant role in the growth of your business. Because the costs associated with connectors are very small, their use is applicable to every business, regardless of the marketing budget and/or lack thereof. In short, the absence of a marketing budget is not a valid excuse for why your business is not growing! At the end of the day, there are many components to building a successful business. Passion, specializing and connecting are three of the most vital aspects. If you own a business, my guess is that you have the passion, and at least an idea of what it means to be a specialist. Take the time now to think about your clientele, and outside your clientele. Who are the connectors of your world? Having a successful business will not be thrust upon you like a bolt of lightening, nor will it happen by patiently waiting. Success is something that you must choose to achieve by taking action, every moment of every day. Remember, when the wall of smoke clears, you must be your number one connector! n
David Suzuki, president of Bio-Thera peutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at firstname.lastname@example.org or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com.
Page 94 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
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COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE
HANDY STATE REGULATION GUIDE Moving soon, have questions about your scope of practice, or just need a reminder about your state board’s requirements? The Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP), the nation’s largest membership organization for estheticians provides a card showing licensing/renewal requirements and board contact information for all states (and Puerto Rico), which can be downloaded free of charge at www.ascpskincare.com/ content/become/RegCard. pdf. ASCP offers business and educational resources, liability insurance and other benefits to its members, whose numbers exceed 11,000. www.ascp.org
EAST MEETS WEST
EXCITING EXPANSION DermaMed Solutions, LLC., a global leader in microdermabrasion and esthetic care, has acquired the assets of ExcellaDerm Corporation, also a recognized leader in microdermabrasion, ultrasound and electrical stimulation technologies. “ExcellaDerm is is an ideal fit to continue our growth,” says Mark Pinsley, president of DermaMed Solutions, LLC. “Both companies have similar philosophies. We both believe in treating people holistically, considering all aspects of the input to healthy skin, while recognizing individuality ... we expect this acquisition to continue to expand our ability to serve our customers with the highest quality solutions to meet their esthetic needs.” www.dermamedsolutions.com
STANDOUT RECOGNITION With a mission to improve people’s lives, PCA SKIN® is honored to be recognized as one of Arizona’s Most Admired Companies for 2012. The company thanks their extended network of certified professionals, as this honor is a reflection of their daily efforts to affect skin health in positive ways. www.pcaskin.com
Le Mieux introduces educational seminars on the Gua Sha meridian technique, which merges Eastern facial re-sculpting and re-contouring techniques using jade. These techniques can be used in conjunction with Western technologies. “We see the merging of Eastern and Western practices as the future of skin care, which is why Le Mieux is educating estheticians on Eastern techniques that can easily be combined with Western style techniques,” says Janel Luu, CEO and founder of Le Mieux. “Achieving optimal rejuvenation requires researching and integrating the best developed techniques and methods from different parts of the earth.” www.lemieuxcosmetics.com
NEW MANAGEMENT Control Corrective Skincare Systems® has hired Angi Budroe as business development manager, a role in which she is focusing on creating new business opportunities, maintaining key relationships and implementing development strategies for the clinical skin care brand. Budroe has held positions as sales manager and business development consultant for internationally recognized skin care brands, for which she has successfully built operations and increased profit margins. “Angi’s vast experience in the skin care industry and impressive sales record are significant assets to the Control Corrective team,” says Ellen Clark, president of the company. “She’ll be an insightful addition to the business.” www.controlcorrective.com
Page 96 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
organic & wellness kaleidoscopic beauty
photo courtesy of Lisa Sykes
by Lisa Sykes
“IN COOLER MONTHS, WE GRAVItate to foods that are going to ground us and give us the warmth. We might have root vegetables—carrots, parsnips, rutabagas—things that grow beneath the ground.“ -Bryant Terry, chef, author and activist Eating seasonal foods is one of the most healthy, sustainable things you can do for personal and planetary health. It means you are eliminating thousands of miles of food transport, supporting your local economy and eating fresh. With the fall season comes the kaleidoscopic beauty of changing leaves and cool, crisp air. But unfortunately, lower temperatures mean less moisture for the skin. To counteract this lack of humidity, be sure to offer seasonally appropriate treatments and spa cuisine. Ingredients such as pumpkin, sweet potatoes, carrots (packed with antioxidants), walnuts and flax (full of omega-rich fats) are particularly important in the fall, as their beneficial properties help protect and repair skin cells from free radical damage and aid the skin in retaining moisture content. Here are a few treatment ingredient suggestions: Carrot seed essential oil has a warm, earthy aroma and serves as an excellent addition to skin care products, especially for dry or mature skin. For a fall moisturizer, try blending 2 drops of carrot seed essential oil with 2 drops of geranium essential oil in 10 ml of evening primrose oil. Benefits: It is rich in vitamin A and beta-carotene. Rosehip oil is a great anti-aging oil. It can be used on its own or added to other oils to help reduce stretch marks and scarring. Try 1 to 2 tsp. for the face, 2 to 3 Tbs. for hands or feet, and 4 Tbs. for the whole body. Benefits: It is high in unsaturated fatty acids, antioxidants and gamma-linoleic acid (GLA). October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Evening primrose oil has a light, sweet aroma and is good for dry, aging or chapped skin. Try 10 drops for 1 to 2 tsp. of another carrier for the face; 1 tsp. for 2 to 3 Tbs. of another carrier for the feet; 2 tsp. for 4 Tbs. of another carrier for the body, and ¼ c. added to a bath. Benefits: It is rich in vitamin E and GLA. Masks and peels provide convenient treatments and easy add-ons. Look for products such as a cranberry mask, pumpkin mask, rosemary mask or pumpkin exfoliating peel. Benefits: They contain antioxidants and complement seasonal facials. Powders such as wild yam root powder or carrot powder can be easily incorporated into scrubs, hydrotherapy and body wraps. However, note that they do not dissolve well in oils, so try adding ¼ tsp. to 2 Tbs. of a lotion, clay or mud. Benefits: These ingredients are rich in beta-carotene. Complementary spa cuisine such as light salads are easy dishes to prepare. Here is a recipe to get you started:
Butternut squash salad 4 lbs. butternut squash (approx. 9 cups of 1” cubes) 1 ½ Tbs. extra
• • •
Preheat oven to 400° F. Peel and cut butternut squash into 1” cubes. In a large mixing bowl, toss the squash with the olive oil, spread it out on a half sheet pan and roast for 15-20 minutes. • In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the agave nectar and water. Set aside. • In a sauté pan, toast the black walnuts on medium heat for a few minutes, being careful not to burn. Set aside. • Once the butternut squash has cooled, pour it into a large mixing bowl and gently toss with the walnuts, fresh herbs, cranberries, sea salt, vinegar and white pepper. • Begin adding the agave nectar mixture ¼ cup at a time until reaching your desired coating. Refrigerate and enjoy. Benefits: Butternut squash and cranberries are loaded with antioxidants, and walnuts are rich in omega-3 fatty acids. Addressing skin health from the inside out can set your spa apart from others. This holistic approach is very educational for clients who may not know about the benefits of seasonal foods and treatments. n
virgin olive oil
½ c. organic amber agave nectar ¼ c. water ¼ c. black walnuts, chopped 1 tsp. fresh French tarragon, chopped 2 Tbs. fresh parsley, chopped 1 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped 2 tsp. fresh chives, chopped 1/3 c. dried cranberries 1 tsp. sea salt 1-2 Tbs. fig infused vinegar (to taste) ½ tsp. white pepper
Lisa Sykes is a sustainability specialist at Universal Companies. She specializes in ingredients and cosmetic chemistry, working closely with product development and vendor partners on formulations and product selection. Sykes also manages the company’s social media presence. She is co-chair of the Green Spa Network’s personal care product committee, and serves on the advisory council. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 97
HEALTHY LIVING INTERVIEW WITH SALLY PANSING KRAVICH, HOLISTIC NUTRITIONIST AND AUTHOR
NATURALLY BY SAMUELLA R. BECKER
SALLY PANSING KRAVICH HOLDS A MASTER OF SCIENCE in holistic nutrition. Her background spans a lifetime of studies and certifications in the natural health field, including the late renowned Dr. Bernard Jensen, with whom she studied iridology. Sally has actively practiced health and alternative healing techniques since the age of 12. She maintains offices in New York and Los Angeles, and her private clientele includes entertainers, professional athletes, CEOs and everyday people of all ages. Sally has been a regular speaker on nutrition and natural healing at the Ashram Spa in Calabases, CA and the TriBeCa MedSpa in New York City. She has co-anchored the New Vitality Live radio show with Rob Martin, been interviewed by Katie Couric on NBC’s Dateline as the nutritional expert for Aleta St. James (one of the oldest mothers in history, who gave birth to twins at the age of 57), and discussed calcium safety for women over 60 on ABC World News. Sally’s book, Vibrant Living: Creating Radiant Health and Longevity, along with her three-part Living a Vibrant Life DVD series, provide a proactive roadmap to total mind and body wellness. I had the opportunity to interview Sally myself, which is the next best thing to having a personal consultation! Read on to learn, be inspired and pick up some great advice to use for yourself as well as pass onto your clients!
Top five supplements for women’s health
What vitamins should women take? Probiotics are important because they put good bacteria back into the body, and that helps you to digest, break down and absorb nutrients in the small intestine. Fish oil and omega-3 fatty acids are highly important too, because they protect against all the radio currents we are bombarded with, and they are great for brain development. They also help curb other fat cravings. The B-Complex is essential, and taking a B50 or B100 supplement feeds the nervous system and helps with stress. When combined with fish oil, it helps keep your hormones balanced. Vitamin D is also an essential nutrient. We’ve become ‘mole people.’ We’re not getting the natural light that we need, and getting the D (from the sunlight) is important for the synthesis of calcium and our structural health. Last but not least is calcium. Take it at bedtime in a liquid or powdered capsule form; it’s the best sleeping pill in the
world, and it also helps with weight management because it relaxes you and helps you fall into a deep sleep, which means your body will be in repair mode.
Best breakfasts of the world
What are some of the best breakfast choices to help people start their day right? My favorite breakfasts are Israeli and Swiss breakfasts. At high end hotels in France or Switzerland, the options for breakfast are much better than those in Italy, Germany, Spain, England or other Nordic countries. As a holistic nutritionist, I began my studies of diet in varied cultures in the 1960s when we moved to Switzerland to regain good health. I have traveled and studied extensively around the world. The Swiss breakfast contains muesli (good fiber), dark bread (rye, high in protein and fiber), yogurt (healthy bacteria), fresh orange juice, stewed, dried and fresh fruits, hard boiled eggs and fresh cheese. My second favorite breakfast is a nutrient-packed Israelistyle breakfast with fresh veggies and fruits. The fruit in Israel is the most delicious! A typical Israeli breakfast has chopped salad, fresh fruit, lebeni (a yogurt spread) hummus, tahini, hard boiled eggs, maybe shakshouka (scrambled eggs in a cumin laced tomato sauce) and fresh cheese ... not so healthy aspects of this meal include pita bread and spinach pie. As far as nutrients and a solid foundation to start the day go, the Swiss and the Israelis win for having the best breakfasts, hands down! You can always forgo the cheese and the white bread.
Eating for beauty
You are 61 years old, but don’t look a day over 39. Tell us your secrets for healthy, glowing skin! Beauty begins from the inside out. Often we look to external products to make us feel and look more beautiful. Natural products and regular skin care are beneficial, but beautiful skin begins with the food and liquids that we eat and drink. In Chinese medicine, the skin is considered the third kidney. In order to keep the skin alive and healthy, you want to open the skin’s pores by sweating and drinking plenty of pure water. Exercise is one way you can promote perspiration; another is with hot baths, steam baths and saunas. You will also want to remove dead skin cells. You can do this by dry brushing skin with a natural bristle brush.
Page 98 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
organic & wellness Here are my tips for fabulous skin: • Avoid fried foods, sodas of any kind, sugar, white flour and coffee. • Increase intake of water, vegetables, fruit, whole grains and fresh vegetable juices. • Use nourishing skin supplements such as fish oil, B-Complex, seaweed, zinc, vitamin C, vitamin E, probiotics, greens powders and reds powders. • Cleansing the liver helps your skin! Easy liver cleansing herbs include dandelion, milk thistle and alpha lipoic acid. • Yeast cleansing herbs can also help your skin! Simple yeast cleansing herbs are olive leaf extract, capryllic acid and grapefruit seed extract. Keep in mind that when you begin a program to cleanse and rejuvenate your skin, it will first break out as you rebuild. To speed up the process, see a skin care specialist and make sure that you are increasing your intake of water and fresh vegetable juices.
Natural treatments for hair loss
Next, the scalp! Can you give us tips for luscious hair? Your diet, hormones, stress, lack of nutrients and over-usage of hair coloring products all affect the quality of your hair. I’ve had male and female clients who were losing their hair for many different reasons—various health conditions, stress factors and diets. All either fully or partially improved their hair by following these suggestions: • Avoid foods that contain artificial colors, dyes, sweeteners and all preservatives. Avoid most packaged ‘fake’ foods. • Do not drink sodas of any kind. • Restrict your intake of caffeine. • Eat a plentiful array of vegetables and fruit. • Do not be afraid of healthy fats. Make sure your diet includes avocado, olive oil, coconut, fish, eggs, raw nuts and seeds. • Drink fresh veggie juice. • Eat whole grains. • Include supplements of omega-3s, B100 Complex, biotin, seaweed, silica or horsetail. Zinc, iron and protein are also necessary building blocks for a rich, shiny mane. • Greens powders (made from veggies, grasses and seaweeds) and reds powders (made from antioxidant fruits) will boost your hair. • Take probiotics to ensure that you will have good bacteria; they will help raise your ability to absorb nutrients.
Bikini beach body dreaming
Can you tell us what foods to eat—or not—to achieve and maintain the best possible physique? Here’s my top five list for each category:
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
The five WORST foods: • Cheese will pack on weight. Cut the cheese from salads, omelets, sandwiches and other foods. • Protein bars are glorified candy bars, and often contain unnecessary extra calories. • Lattes. Avoid the extra dairy to shed pounds. • No flour products of any kind, no matter what the grain is—no bread, rolls, wraps or pasta. • Chips of any kind will make you hungrier, and trigger the brain to continue eating. They also contain unhealthy amounts of sodium. Flavored chips are even worse! The five BEST foods: • Brown rice helps sustain energy and satisfies your body’s need for starch. • Quinoa is a high protein grain with fiber that will sustain energy and give you a sense of fullness. • Avocado. The good fat helps to satisfy hunger, and will make a salad last longer. • Whole eggs are a great brain food. The yolk will help you feel full and make better food choices. • Celery helps burn fat!
How “super” are superfoods?
Do superfoods actually heal the body? Holistic health is about much more than just eating your veggies. Every vegetable has a different healing property. Examples of superfoods include: • Parsley, because it helps keep the urinary tract, bladder and prostate clean. • Celery, because it eats up cystic matter and helps break down fats. • Beets and dandelion greens help clean the liver out. • Carrots are good for the liver as well as the immune system.
Juicing for digestive health
You often refer to yourself as the ‘juice queen.’ That’s because I have been giving juice remedies since the early 1980s! The simplest beginner juice is just apple-celery juice, which stimulates the gall bladder, helps break down fats and clears things out. The next is a more complicated juice, made by adding parsley, cucumber and another dark green veggie, as more veggies add more healing properties. This helps create healthy cells and cleans your systems. But you still need to chew, and eat some cooked. In an ideal day we want to get enough protein into our body for the building blocks, enough veggies to build healthy cells, and enough antioxidants from fruits such as pomegranate, goji or blueberries. We absolutely need good fats— without them the brain doesn’t function and the hormones continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 99
organic & wellness|growing young naturally become unbalanced. If your body is getting fed these nutrients, you’re going to come alive—I mean really alive!
Cleansing and fasting
‘Cleansing’ has now become a buzzword. What are the nutritional pros of embarking on a juice diet or fast? Since the 1980s, I have been creating cleansing programs. These programs can last anywhere from a weekend to a full week or longer. The choice of timing is a matter of what fits into your lifestyle and schedule. How do you know which type of cleanse is good for you? Every person reacts differently. Some colon cleansers contain senna, which is harmful when taken over a long period of time. Aloe vera juice and chlorophyll are soothing, perfectly safe and can be used for longer durations. For some, psyllium hulls are a great source of fiber, while for others oat bran, chia seeds or ground flax are better. There are so many products to choose from that it’s hard to know what’s best for you. Plan your cleanse with a health professional! Remember that your best bet for a vibrant colon is to have a healthy diet! Here are seven bits of information to consider when cleansing. 1. Determine how many days you can realistically spend on a cleansing program. 2. Two days before starting a fast, eliminate all animal proteins. 3. One day before starting a fast, eliminate all vegetarian proteins, including nuts. 4. Start taking a bowel cleanser the night before a fast. 5. Vegetable juicing during a cleanse will speed up the results. 6. End a fast by eating salad for roughage, along with cooked vegetables, including soups. 7. Wait two days after ending a fast before adding animal protein back into your diet.
(this is a much better mix than eating them with raisins, cranberries or dates). • Coconut water. It is nourishing, fends off hunger, is easy to digest and is filled with electrolytes. • The good old apple. It provides instant energy, the crunchiness satisfies the need to chew and apple pectin helps dissolve fat. My favorite grain recommendations are millet, quinoa, organic cornmeal and brown (dark) rice. For those who need a higher protein grain, quinoa is my first choice. Chia and teff are two other whole-grain foods that I recommend adding to your diet. Chia can be added to smoothies for extra protein and easier bowel movements. Teff is an Ethiopian grain and a good flour product for those who have digestive issues or cannot tolerate gluten. I also love rye, but this grain is not for gluten sensitive people.
How would you compare raw, dry roasted nuts versus roasted nuts and seeds? What are the differences and what’s best to eat? Raw nuts and seeds feed your brain. Eat raw nuts with an apple instead of trail mixes that come with various dried fruits; those may be high in sugar, and therefore are high in acidity. • A ‘raw’ diet doesn’t necessarily mean it’s an alkaline diet, as many acidic foods may be eaten raw. • Almond butter is another almond-based food trend that has some advantages over conventional peanut butter. I brought my own children up on almond butter. Almond butter is preferable over peanut butter, as it contains more protein and less sugar than the peanut. Still, it’s important to eat nut butters in moderation, as most varieties are heavy in calories and fat. For those who have cold sores or herpes, almonds can trigger breakouts. In this case, rotate your raw nut consumption between walnuts, pecans and cashews.
So-called “healthy” foods that aren’t
Sugar-free alternatives to satisfy cravings
Is coconut water really beneficial—or is it just hype? Coconut water is one of the best sources of electrolytes! I prefer my clients use this instead of popular electrolyte products that contain artificial colors and unhealthy sugars. My uncle had some of the first coconut factories in the South Pacific in the 1960s. He saw the advantages of this perfect food that native peoples had used for centuries. Unfortunately, at that time medical studies decided that coconut was unhealthy. The studies have since changed. If there was any survival food that one could pick, it is the coconut! Can you recommend simple snack foods that are full of fiber and low on the glycemic index? My top three picks are: • Raw almonds with organic black mission figs or apricots. These are nourishing and will sustain energy
What is the best diet for a person who has no time to prepare food? Are packaged foods an option? I have an issue with almost all packaged foods that contain more than several ingredients. One must read the label for food content before checking fat, sodium, calories, etc. When you read the ingredient list on the label and it has vague mystery words such as ‘spices,’ ‘natural flavorings’ and ‘hydrolyzed protein,’ steer clear! These additives contain harmful chemicals that are not good for your health.
What is the best sugar-free alternative available on the market? Stevia is by far the best sweetener source on the market. It wasn’t that long ago that I had to continues
Page 100 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
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organic & wellness|growing young naturally find tricky ways around the FDA to get Stevia to my clients, even though it has been used for 1,500 years. Another new source for sweetening that is becoming popular is xylitol ... but this is not always a clean source. Sometimes it is made from birch syrup (fine) and other times from corn (not good). What are the healthiest sources of sugar and why? The healthiest sources of sugar are maple syrup, honey, rice bran syrup and black strap molasses. I am not a fan of agave, as one has to use too much of it to make things taste sweet, which defeats the purpose. Honey is antibacterial and can help with allergy symptoms, plus a little goes a long way. Maple syrup is better for those with blood sugar problems, and does not break down in the body like a simple sugar. Rice bran syrup is made from rice bran polishings, which are high in nutrients. Blackstrap molasses is the result of the third to fifth cooking of the sugar cane, which has concentrated nutrients. What is the best way to curb a sugar addiction? Eat mini meals throughout the day. Eat real food, not bars or packaged food. Avoid coated products. Curb alcohol, which will promote sugar cravings the following day. Do eat a grain or small healthy starch with meals if you often want something sweet after a meal. Or eat an apple, tangerine or grapefruit at the end of a meal. Take probiotics to promote healthy bacteria. Unhealthy bacteria thrive if you do not take probiotics. Have a plain organic yogurt with some fresh berries for dessert.
Why hydrate with water over other beverages such as sports drinks or tea? Water does more than quench our thirst. Staying hydrated flushes out toxins, ensures your cells get the oxygen they need and keeps every system in your body functioning properly. Invest in a good water filtering system and a solid reusable container that you can carry with you, so there’s no excuse not to sip.
Twice as many women suffer from incontinence as men. Can you recommend effective therapies? When is surgery or medication warranted? How useful are Kegels and other exercises? Many women are not prepared for the changes that occur during menopause. For some, it’s hard to wrap their head around the fact they are no longer fertile. For others, there is relief because of that. And for some, the bodily changes are overwhelming. They may expect that there will be hot flashes, brain fog and weight gain, but enduring incontinence comes as a complete surprise! Incontinence occurs for several reasons. A lack of estrogen makes tissue more flaccid. As the uterus losses its elasticity, the bladder also drops. So this problem comes in part from hormonal
depletion. Another aspect of incontinence is yeast and bacteria that develops over time and resides in the bladder lining. Here are the 12 pieces of wisdom that I share with my clients, and have had to use myself, being that I am a 61-yearold menopausal woman: 1. Go on a yeast cleansing diet. Eliminate refined sugar, white carbohydrates and sweet drinks. 2. Eliminate caffeine, which can stimulate the urge to urinate. 3. Drink water. Many people cut back on their liquids, when in fact it is important to flush the bladder. 4. Take some yeast and bacteria cleansing supplements. You will want to kill off unhealthy bacteria. Olive leaf extract and caprylic acid are also good for killing off yeast. 5. Take probiotics for good bacteria. One always needs to counterbalance. 6. Use a combination of cranberry and buchu herbal supplements. This helps to strengthen the bladder and keep bacteria from adhering to the lining. 7. Do exercises that specifically lift the lower stomach. Pilates mat exercises are the best for this. 8. Inversion poses in yoga help to reverse the effects of gravity. 9. Do good old fashioned Kegel exercises. 10. Be careful about magnesium intake, as it is a relaxant, so it can create loose stools and diarrhea! 11. I give pumpkin seed extract specifically to men for prostate issues. It is high in zinc, which promotes healing. 12. One needs to be careful about diuretic herbs that expel water from the body, as they will increase the flow of urine. It can have a drying action, which is active in other tissues, and we do not want to dry up like a prune in menopause!
Can natural remedies tame hot flashes as effectively as HRT (Hormone Replacement Therapy)? In some cases HRT is helpful, but it is not a good choice if you never took birth control pills, have ever been a smoker or have a history of cancer in your family. A common herb that helps ease hot flashes is black cohosh. This herb has properties similar to estrogen, but it is not wise to take if you have a history of breast cancer. Non-genetically modified soy products can be helpful for alleviating the effects of decreased estrogen. Some women derive benefits from a hormonal supplement called pregnenolone. Red clover is a viable choice for those who do have a history of breast cancer or fibroids. In order to be conservative, these individuals should completely avoid products that enhance estrogen. To ease menopausal symptoms, they could use wild yam cream, a natural source of progesterone that can counteract the effects of estrogen dumping into their system. Note that progesterone can bring your cycle back. A safe bet for managing or alleviating hot flashes is to use herbs continues
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organic & wellness|growing young naturally that help the liver process, along with supplements such as B100 and EFAs. Good liver supporting and cleansing supplements are dandelion, milk thistle and alpha lipoic acid.
Foiling lupus fatigue
What are the best and safest ways that a woman with lupus can boost her waning energy levels? When one is afflicted with a disease that involves taking drugs, it’s best to stay away from any energy stimulating herbs, such as ginseng or maca root. Instead, go through the back door for stimulating energy by taking minerals, colloidal minerals, vitamins C, B12, B-Complex and super nutrients such as greens and reds powders. Drinking fresh veggie juices can help build healthy cells, assist the body in cleaning the lymph system and eliminating pain. Avoid all fake foods, artificial sweeteners, MSG, wheat and most dairy products. Your energy will increase and you will begin to experience radiant health!
Dietary changes for fibromyalgia relief
Fibromyalgia is a rheumatoid disorder distinguished by pervasive muscular and skeletal pain. The condition is accompanied by fatigue, sleep and memory problems. Can sufferers who experience little relief from conventional treatment be helped by an alternative, multi-disciplinary approach? Yes, I have helped clients with this condition many times throughout the years with great success. Diet and specific supplements are a very important key for correcting, reducing and eliminating the inflammation. In fact, I just received a big thank you from a longtime fibromyalgia sufferer. After two months of being on my personalized plan, she is now pain free. Poor diet, drugs, stress, artificial sweeteners, soda, coffee and fake foods contribute to this problem. I think of it as a toxic overload with extreme inflammation, rather than a disease.
Natural sleep aids
What are the best non-prescription, all natural ways to fall asleep faster? Calcium helps your bones and promotes a deep sleep. Magnesium acts as a relaxant. This is why I have my clients take a calcium supplement at night. I also have them eat nighttime meals that are rich in these minerals, with alkaline foods that are easy to digest. But keep in mind that too much magnesium can cause diarrhea! • For dinner, eating more vegetarian meals, soups or fish with dark leafy greens helps promote better sleep. • Dehydrated goat whey can be made into a bedtime tea. It digests in 20 minutes, and the mineral content of this alkaline food relaxes muscles and joints. • Warm almond milk is easy to digest and high in calcium, which promotes good sleep. • Warm rice milk is easy on the tummy and nourishing to the nervous system.
• Lavendar tea relaxes and soothes. • Collard greens are high in magnesium (relaxant, aids muscles) and calcium (bones and promotes sleep). • Bok choy has the highest calcium content of any vegetable, at 155 mg. per cooked cup.
Staying awake behind the wheel
With the holidays approaching and many people traveling to family celebrations, do you have any advice for avoiding road fatigue and/or healthy, stay-alert snack suggestions to eat with one hand while driving? Choose your food and drink wisely with these tips: • Do not eat sandwiches, or any starchy meals or snacks when you are driving. These foods drag your energy down and will make you drowsy. • Eat a combination of protein and veggies or fruit and protein before you sit in the driver’s seat. • Easy snacks to keep you alert: protein shakes, kefir, green machine, coconut water, banana, fruit, apple with raw nuts, string cheese with fruit, peeled hard boiled eggs, chopped raw veggies and healthy protein bars. You can always keep a lunch size cooler next to you. • Tea with licorice root and eleuthero can keep you awake. • Avoid sugar in coffee, as it will cause your blood sugar to take a dip ... resulting in snoozing at the wheel.
What words of wisdom can you leave us with for always looking and feeling our best? For women, this means being balanced physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually. What could be better than fully expressing your passion and enthusiasm, shining your soul light throughout all of the passages of your life? We have different values and ideas about what our life ‘should’ look like at various stages. Although goals are important, flexibility, passion and compassion toward yourself will be your guiding light as life goes on. This means that some rules may need to be broken. n
Samuella Becker is the founder and CEO of TigressPR. She is especially passionate about launching new businesses, which she did for the Joanna Vargas Salon, Skin Care Sanctuary in 2006. Other current clients include The Actors Studio Drama School at Pace University, holistic nutritionist/author Sally Kravich and the MIT Enterprise Forum of NYC. Learn more about Becker at www.linkedin.com/in/samuellabecker.
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by Lissa Bell
organic & wellness|
photo: Elena Schweitzer/Shutterstock.com
what’s in your dispensary? WITH A RAPIDLY GROWING TREND in organic and holistic skin care, offering custom, natural and organic facial and body treatments will help you to set your point of difference. The best part of putting together your own organic backbar is this: Even if every other day spa follows suit and begins offering customized, organic treatments, there are so many different ways to work with natural ingredients that no two practiced professionals will ever do it the same way. It allows for a lot of creativity; that is the beauty of it. Another bonus is the cut in overhead. Buying organic, natural and fair trade materials is very cost-effective. As always, starting something new can be a bit overwhelming. That is why it is important to start with just the basics, and grow your organic backbar as you learn. The first thing you will need is a basic cleanser. Starting out, you can use an organic liquid castile soap, which is easily customized by adding a few drops of skin appropriate essential oils. There are many options, but this is a good start. If you prefer, you can purchase a ready to use organic castile soap, which offers an option for several different skin types. There are many essential oils to choose from. It is easy to get carried away, and in some cases, it can get quite expensive. For this reason, it is wise to start with a small variety of essential oils. Lavender can work for any skin type; rose is wonderful for dry skin but is rather expensive, and so rose geranium will work well in its October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
place; tea tree oil is good for oily and acne prone skin; and mandarin works well for aging skin. For toning, a combination of pure witch hazel extract and an herbal or floral hydrosol is perfect. Witch hazel helps to heal broken capillaries, balance the skin’s pH and pull moisture into the skin. There is a large selection of hydrosols available, but the two you will use the most are: rose, for dry and normal skin; and lavender for oily, acne-prone and irritated skin. Two effective natural scrubs are ground oatmeal and cornmeal. These can all be added to a basic cleanser, massaged into the skin and removed with a steam towel.
Add ¼ to ½ teaspoon of oatmeal or cornmeal to 1-2 teaspoons of liquid facial cleanser. Skin appropriate essential oils (1 drop is plenty) and hydrosols can also be added for customization. There are several organic carrier oils that can be used for moisturizing and massage. They can also be customized to your clients’ needs by adding a drop or two of essential oils. Jojoba, apricot kernel and sunflower seed oil are closest in weight to our skin’s own sebum; therefore they are easily absorbed and will not lay on the surface of the skin. These oils are all good for nourishing and continues
It is best to use local honey, as it helps to alleviate pollen allergy symptoms. Honey has antibacterial properties, and helps to brighten the complexion and moisturize the skin.
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organic & wellness|organic backbar
There is no limit to what you can do with natural ingredients, and you have the benefit of peace of mind, because you know that you are using safe and effective formulas.
moisturizing the skin. As with anything natural, it is important to remember that a little goes a long way. For masks, clay is always a good base. The skin type determines the type of clay to be used. For sensitive, dry and normal skin, use white or kaolin clay, (1-2 teaspoons). It is drawing, but not terribly drying. Red clay can also be used for normal or combination skin. For oily skin, French green clay works wonders, as it draws excess oil and impurities
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from the skin. Use one tablespoon per mask, mixed with 1-2 tablespoons of liquid. Many things can be added to a mask. A basic mask can be mixed with just clay and water. For more specific results, flower waters (hydrosols) can be used. The best hydrosols to start with are chamomile and calendula for sensitive, inflamed or aggravated skin; lavender for sensitive, dry, normal, combination or oily skin; and rose and rose geranium for dry and aging skin. For aging skin, try adding a little bit of milk powder (1/41/2 teaspoon), and/or honey (1 teaspoon). It is best to use local honey, as it helps to alleviate pollen allergy symptoms. Honey has antibacterial properties, and helps to brighten the complexion and moisturize the skin. Natural/organic ingredients for the backbar: • Organic castile soap • Distilled water • Lavender essential oil • Rose geranium essential oil • Tea tree oil • Witch hazel extract • Mandarin essential oil • Cornmeal • Oatmeal • Almond meal • Rosewater/Hydrosol • Calendula hydrosol • Lavender hydrosol • White clay • French green clay milk powder • Milk powder • Honey • Vegetable glycerin • Aloe vera gel or juice • Jojoba • Apricot kernel oil • Sunflower seed oil Once you become comfortable with mixing your own facial treatments from scratch, it will be quite easy to add new ingredients such as dried herbs, additional essential oils, powdered clay, mud and exfoliants, such as organic sugar and sea salt for body treatments. There is no limit to what you can do with natural ingredients, and you have the benefit of peace of mind, because you know that you are using safe and effective formulas. n
Lissa Bell is a licensed esthetician in Ohio. She began to lose pigment in her skin as a teenager due to heredity; and eventually she lost all pigment. As an advocate for the National Vitiligo Foundation, Bell has researched natural skin care products for sensitive skin, and wrote the book The Care and Keeping of Sensitive Skin: A Practical Guide to Holistic Skin Care.
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organic & wellness
gua sha TAKE A JOURNEY INTO THE CENTURIES-OLD EASTERN technique of facial re-contouring and re-sculpting. The Gua Sha meridian technique is an exotic escape as well as a therapeutic traditional Chinese healing technique using jade. This incredible treatment provides ideal results in improving skin complexion, making it a great addition to any esthetician’s services. Gua Sha first appeared in written record in Chinese medical text dating back from the third century B.C. Centuries of practice makes Gua Sha an irrefutably established means to attaining a rejuvenated complexion. Derived from similar approaches as acupuncture, Gua Sha focuses on improving invisible pathways of the body’s natural flow of energy, which is also referred to as “Qi” (Chi). In restoring this Chi flow, Gua Sha not only opens the pathway to beauty but also to an increased quality of health. Balance is key for Gua Sha. When pathways for the body’s natural flow of energy are obstructed, the body enters into a state of imbalance, in which physical signs of obstruction are portrayed. The body becomes ill and is no longer in an optimal state. The facial skin thus comes to exhibit signs. The skin ages and becomes dull, even unmanageable. Fine lines, wrinkles and dark eye circles become more prominent. The Gua Sha treatment breaks this progression of imbalance and aids in visibly diminishing these physical signs. Gua Sha involves utilizing smooth jade tools to massage nine specific meridian points of the face. Meridians are vital energy lines of the body that form a connective network to all organs and tissues. The condition of these energy lines is crucial in determining the condition of the facial skin. Therefore, when meridians are relieved, these blockages increase the flow of vital energy, leading to healthy, more radiant skin. Using “tribo-effleurage” or “friction-stroking,” Gua Sha facilitates the proper flow of blood because the skin is stroked with friction through the direction of blood flow. By lightly stroking these meridian points with jade,
Gua Sha aids the increase of the body’s natural blood flow to promote blood circulation, remove toxins and waste from within the body and naturally strengthen the immune system. With an increased blood circulation, this technique also creates a slightly relaxing, warming massage. Due to their connective element, alleviating meridian points further promotes overall health and well-being. Commonly referred to as a healing crystal, the jade provides raw minerals and trace elements such as calcium, zinc and iron to the body, acting as a catalyst for an enhanced skin complexion. Dull and tired skin immediately appears younger, brighter and exceptionally luminous. Properties of jade alongside the Gua Sha approach provide unmatched improvement of health and well-being. This unique process instantly lifts, firms and tightens the skin while minimizing pores and puffiness by guiding the channels for blood and energy flow. Opening such meridian channels both detoxifies and nourishes the skin and body. Smooth, even, incredibly soft skin awaits! As wellness becomes a widespread growing trend, incorporating the Gua Sha technique into existing facial menus offers an amazing niche for estheticians who want to open doors to international healing and create one-of-a kind experiences for clients. Moreover, integrating the Gua Sha treatment into European facial massage techniques will intensify a broad range of services. With research showing that approximately 80 percent (and growing) of the world’s population is ethnic, it is necessary to understand both the expectations and the concerns of the global consumer. Understanding the needs of the consumer must be a priority. Not only does this unique approach cater to different ethnicities, it also targets both young and mature skin types. Meridian facials offer a range of benefits, which include reducing acne, diminishing dark eye circles and providing a healthier glow for younger skin types. For mature skin types, the meridian facial minimizes continues
BY JANEL LUU Page 108 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
photos courtesy of Janel Luu
HOLISTIC CHINESE HEALING FACIAL
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gua sha treatment steps
LEFT TO RIGHT: “WIND” AND “CROWN” JADE TOOLS
fine lines, lifts drooping eyelids and increases the quality and quantity of underlying collagen. It also allows the skin to increase its natural ability to absorb essential nutrients. The Gua Sha treatment plan attacks the most commonly seen problems, making it suitable for both new and longtime clients. Not only will Gua Sha target clients of all different ages, but they will also cater to a variety of issues without the need of surgical or invasive measures. Estheticians will experience a new standard in professional beauty treatments with the Gua Sha facial, and send clients on an exciting and exotic journey. 1. Cleanse: Begin by cleansing the entire facial area with a cleanser. Remove with a warm towel or moistened sponge. Pat dry. 2. Exfoliation I: Protect the eye area with moistened cotton pads. Use a light micro-peel on the entire face, neck and décolleté area. Do not rinse. 3. Massage: Perform your typical massage routine with two to three pumps of massage cream. Massage lightly over the neck and décolleté area for 7 to 10 minutes. 4. Meridian massage: Gently press the major nine meridian points on the face to release energy blockage. *5. GUA SHA TREATMENT (pictured at left, steps a-f): Apply massage cream on the face for a smoother glide, and use either the “crown” or “wind” jade tool (use preferred shape), to perform slight strokes from the major nine meridian points; extend the strokes in an outward motion several times for 7 to 10 minutes. Slight redness may occur. Cover the neck, décolleté area and face with a warm towel or moistened sponge. 6. Mask: Apply a molding mask or a sheet mask evenly onto the client’s face. You can perform the Gua Sha treatment on top of the mask. Remove after 15 to 20 minutes. Do not rinse. 7. Tone: Mist toner two to three times directly on the palm of your hand and apply to the client’s face. 8. Serum: Apply 2 to 3 drops of an anti-aging serum to the face, neck and décolleté area in an upward and outward motion. 9. Hydration: Apply moisturizer to the face. 10. Eye and lip: Gently pat eye treatment around the eyes and apply lip treatment. 11. Sun care: Complete procedure by adding sun protection. n Janel Luu, founder and CEO of Le Mieux Cosmetics, has been a leading product developer for skin care and cosmetics companies for more than 25 years. She specializes in antiaging cellular technology, focusing on research and development, and provides guidance to cosmetic chemists on innovative formulations.
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PRETTY PROTECTION The daily eclipse duo™ from DermaMed Solutions is the perfect product combo for beautifying coverage and antiaging protection. It contains a natural mineral barrier lotion and mineral makeup with SPF 30 protection from the sun and environmental toxins. The daily eclipse duo consists of the barrier protection lotion, mineral makeup and an applicator brush. Light reflecting minerals in the makeup protect the skin while imparting a healthy glow. www.dermamedsolutions.com
PUMPKIN POWER! Indulge your clients’ skin with the perfect anti-aging treat this fall. The Refreshingly Pumpkin system from Rhonda Allison uses the power of pumpkin, potent antioxidants and growth factors to repair free radical damage, protect against DNA damage and nourish the skin, says the company. The four-piece system includes a Pumpkin Cleanser, Growth Factor Serum Plus, Pumpkin Rinse and Derma Peel. www.rhondaallison.com
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Turn back the clock this fall with the Pumpkin & Orange Mask from ilike organic skin care. The creamy, lifting mask contains organic pumpkin, marigold, rich herbal oils and honey for a deep regenerating effect, says the company. The pumpkin works to dissolve dead skin to reveal a radiant glow. www.szepelet.com
BEAUTIFYING BAMBOO Strengthen aging skin with the Bamboo Firming Fluid from Éminence Organic Skin Care. The strengthening power of bamboo and hydrating properties of coconut join forces in the active age correcting fluid. Skin looks instantly tighter and lifted with a natural retinol alternative. Exotic monoi deeply hydrates skin while green apple stem cell technology penetrates the epidermis to turn back time, says the company. www.eminenceorganics.com
ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS
ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES MORE NEWS
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ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS
ECOFRIENDLY SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS AND THERAPIES
The Wellx site is a virtual encyclopedia of information and advice for growing a spa or salon business, and also offers assistance with scheduling appointments, exchanging ideas with other wellness professionals, forming alliances and advancing the wellness practice to the next level. A Wellx profile allows professionals to connect with potential employers, clients, partners, markets and experts looking to share insights or seek advice. The appointment book application allows users to book an appointment with a professional, and check in and out via their cell phone, allowing their closest contacts to be alerted via text that they are at an appointment. www.wellx.com
LEMON ZEST The Lemon Age Spot Serum from Dawn Lorraine Conscious Skincare is formulated with organic and chirally correct proven pigment reducers. It is made with kojic acid from organic reishi mushrooms and a natural brightening complex of botanical skin lighteners. Wild-crafted lemon balm, licorice, horseradish, ginseng and anise work to reduce dark spots from photodamage and acne scarring. www.dawnlorraine.com
BRIGHTENING BOOST The Dermaesthetics Cellular Nourishing Mask is a cool, moisture-replenishing masque that provides vital nourishment for ultra-dry skin while brightening and aiding in even coloration and pigmentation. Skin-conditioning antioxidant cocoa seed, licorice root extract and vitamin A protect and restore the skin’s softness and brightness. Revitalizing plant extracts of aloe vera gel, sunflower oil, allantoin and lavender oil bind moisture to the skin, reducing fine lines and visible dryness. All the while, EGF works with the skin’s natural cellular regeneration process to boost the speed of healthier skin cell production. www.dermaestheticsusa.com
The Herbal C Nourisher from Nature Pure Labs contains abundant amounts of vitamin C and certified organic extracts. The luxuriously light botanical moisturizer infuses skin with high concentrations of antioxidants and effectively works to boost skin’s collagen. The blend of milk and honey nourishes and softens skin for a healthy, youthful glow that works synergistically with the anti-aging potent blend of soybean, squalane, chamomile, yeast, hyaluronic acid and vitamins A and E. www.naturepure.com
Page 112 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
photo: Svetlana Lukienko/Shutterstock.com
by Tim Maurer
THERE ARE MANY ANTIDOTES, serums and expensive procedures that can slow the appearance of aging. On the other hand, truly gifted techniques combined with the accurate application of high quality cosmetics can go a long way in diffusing the decades as they pass by—without knives or needles. Clients often elect for the more invasive options because they have trouble maintaining a consistent, satisfactory appearance as they age. One major misconception many of them have is that as they grow older, they need to apply more and more layers of makeup as camouflage. Frankly, that’s the biggest mistake one can make, and makeup professionals ought to crusade against it in beauty consultations with more mature clients. Whatever age your clients are, don’t try to “stop the clock” by gumming up the working parts that make a beautiful face what it is. With that caveat in mind, I present the following advice for those who wish to refine their techniques and product recommendations geared to the mature face. Rather than going overboard with everything, I suggest that cosmetics professionals counsel their clients to return to the fundamentals, particularly the following six essential products that make all the difference. If you can get these items right for your clients, then you’ll be going a long way in making “aging gracefully” nearly effortless. Concealers work best when they are the same shade or slightly lighter than your client’s actual skin tone. First, apply the product as thinly as possible. If you need more coverage, layer more product on top after the first sweep is dry. Maurice Stein, the
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
great makeup icon of Cinema Secrets, recommends a continuous motion from corner to corner under the eye, then blended out with a brush or sponge. Using your fingers actually adds oil to the skin (and is not very professional). Foundation choice is so important to the overall look of your client’s skin. It should mimic the color and texture of natural skin. A very matte finish only works in the arenas of film and print. Natural skin reflects light while a matte finish absorbs it, making the skin look flat. A slightly dewy finish is more flattering and youthful. Blush becomes more important after the age of 40. That does not mean one should use more blush than before, just that it is key to selecting the right color. Choose sheer but bright shades of pink or coral as they harken to the look we naturally had in our teenage years. Bronzer begins to look dirty when overused at this age. Clear jewel tones add vitality and freshness when used sparingly. Eyes should become softer in every aspect. Stop smoking up the eyes on women over 50, as that almost always looks overdone. Spend time on full lashes, even utilizing faux lashes or extensions to make the eye shape pop. Lift the brow by keeping the end of the brow up. Don’t follow the natural slope downward, as the end of the eye will certainly follow the falling brow on its descent. We are not trying to assist gravity; we are trying to defy it! That said, stop the upper liner just before the end of the outer lashes, and it will create the illusion of lift. Heavy mascara in the middle of the eye will keep the focus away from any crow’s feet or drooping.
Powder can be the gateway product for bad makeup. Most people overuse powder, trusting in it as if it were a security blanket. Thank goodness that recently introduced ingredients have gone a long way toward creating a natural looking finale. Look for setting products that utilize components like serecite and silica, which provide realistic mattifications and “HD-ready” results. Lips can erase a decade from one’s appearance when thoughtful choices are made. Remember, dark colors make things recede, and light shades create the illusion of fullness. We lose lip volume as we age, so the darker the shade, the smaller the lips appear. Lining lips after color application helps prevent feathering and bleeding into vertical lines around the mouth. Skip the heavy gloss. It causes the color to migrate and wear off sooner. Every client should have six products, which should take a total of six minutes to apply. Gone are the days of the 30-minute application with 12 steps. If you learn to simplify the process for your clients, they will worship you. Then your only challenge will be holding onto their loyalty! n
Tim Maurer, president and creator of Mukha Custom Cosmetics and Mukha Essentials, is an internationally renowned makeup artist with more than 20 years of experience as a master esthetician. Driven by his passion for the art of makeup and the allure of healthy skin, Maurer’s mission is to raise the bar on the knowledge and application of makeup at today’s leading spas. Contact him at email@example.com or visit www.mukhaessentials.com. www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 113
AUTUMN & WINTER
BY TEAL DRUDA
MAKEUP TRENDS FROM THE RUNWAY
ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR TRENDS THAT SURFACED WAS A SULTRY RED LIP PAIRED WITH AN INCREDIBLY CLEAN EYE.
AUTUMN IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE TIMES of year. The air is crisp, the leaves are changing color and the winter holiday season is right around the corner. Elegant dinner parties replace lazy summer barbeques, and swimsuits are traded in for sumptuous sweaters. Perhaps the best part of these chilly days and the evening soirées that follow are the stunning beauty looks they inspire. From dewy and clean to colorful and dramatic, I’ll share the best trends from the runways this season, and how you can have fun with them and get inspired to try something new!
Dramatic runway looks are often difficult to interpret into everyday wear. However for this fall and winter season, there are several ways to adapt their fashion focused intent to bring the runway looks into day to day beauty. Nude makeup and clean, polished skin is in. Valentino, Balmain and Alexander Wang have all been showing inspiration on the runway from the nude makeup concept. This first look is all about the eyes and mouth looking clean and polished as well. Prep and prime your complexion by using a scrub to slough away any dullness. Keep the foundation light and focus on being flawless without getting heavy or cakey. Try a blendable concealer paired with a sheer mineral powder instead of full foundation and powder. Accentuate the cheekbones with some highlight and contour; finish them off by misting them lightly with a skin hydrating spray or rosewater to set, and keep them from looking powdery and dull. For something just as easy but more captivating, one of the most popular trends that surfaced was a sultry red lip paired with an incredibly clean eye. Thakoon, Rick Owens, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Rochas, Givenchy, Etro, Bottega Veneta, Nicole Farhi and Diane von
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MAKEUP BY TEAL DRUDA PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGELA MARKLEW
Furstenberg are several big names that rocked this look. Winter and fall frequently showcase some sort of red lips, and this year there was a red for everyone. The red shades ranged from coral to a deep mulberry that bordered on black. My personal favorite was a deep crushed boysenberry shade. The runways paraded these red lips with really nude eyes; but I suggest adding a thick coat of mascara and a touch of blush to make it a bit more wearable. Hide your tweezers and resist the temptation to over-pluck the brows. Think groomed but thick. Those pencil thin eyebrows continue to be “out.” The more boyish and thick the eyebrows are, the better. Using a brow pencil that is a shade lighter than your natural color is perfect for filling in any patchiness and beefing up the intensity. To keep those wily hairs under control, try a clear mascara or brow gel. Designers who have featured this look include the likes of Helmut Lang, Vera Wang, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Donna Karan and Oscar de la Renta. Get cheeky with the hot trend of blushing, rosy cheeked beauties. There were quite a few freshly flushed faces with an after-activity glow on the runway this season. Michael Kors and
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Mulberry couldn’t get enough après-ski radiance. Opt for a stain or cream blush so your skin can show through the color, and blend it delicately over the apples of your cheeks. Be imaginative this fall with futuristic looks, creating graphic looks with eyeliner. Inspired by pop art from the 1960s and ‘70s, several designers went with unusual double lined eyeliner, or the thick black cat eye look that covered nearly all of the lid (this is a bit retro, considering that it was a 1960s makeup mainstay). Anna Sui had a unique take on the graphic cat eye. By using a striking cobalt blue, she went all out with purple, orange and black. Some other designers who flaunted the graphic liner look were Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Rachel Zoe and Altuzarra. continues
JEWEL TONES, PEACOCK BLUES AND GREENS ARE IN THE SPOTLIGHT. PLAY WITH THE INTENSITY TO SEE WHAT WORKS BEST.
www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 115
image|autumn & winter
FORGET THE DARK, HOLLOWED OUT LOOK OF YEARS PAST AND CREATE SULTRY, BRONZED EYES THIS SEASON. BURBERRY, BLUMARINE AND LOWE ALL CHOOSE A ROMANTIC FOCUS WITH SOFT BROWN AND METALLIC CREATIONS.
Moving on to something a little more exotic, we had a smoldering eye that stunned on Prabal Gurung’s runway. Less is seen of the basic but boring black and dark brown smoky eyes this season. Start with a base of charcoal or black over the lid, then layer a brilliant blue or green over the top and blend it out into the crease. Jewel tones, peacock blues and greens are in the spotlight. Play with the intensity to see what works best for your client. Forget the dark, hollowed out look of years past and create sultry, bronzed eyes this season. Burberry, Blumarine and Lowe all choose a romantic focus with soft brown and metallic creations. Consider trying a bronzed smoky eye with copper and taupe shades. Louis Vuitton added some mystery and seduction to their eyes by
transforming this look to echo a bit of grunge—a slept in “morning after” feel, with smudged liner under the lower lashes. Now that you are up to date with the current looks for the autumn and winter season of 2012-2013, I hope you are inspired to have fun, try these looks out on your clients and help each of them put their best face forward! n
Teal Druda has been a practicing makeup artist for more than 15 years. Her work has been featured in fashion magazines and music videos. Druda also shares her artistry with clients such as Marie Claire, ABC Television and Relativity Media. She resides in Los Angeles, CA.
Page 116 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
Please visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa, Philadelphia, PA at booth 219
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #229 on reader service card
BY MARIA CALABRESA-ECHELARD
THE PERFECT MAKEUP REGIME BEGINS WITH THE RIGHT MASCARA TO bring back lush lashes; this is followed by the ideal lipstick shade and lip enhancing product for a plush, kissable pout. If you were to ask all of your clients to empty their purses and show you which makeup products they use, you would probably find that they carry with them about three to six lip products in the form of stains, lipsticks, glosses and balms. Each of these items has its own merits and appeal, but one is too pink, another too taupe, another too drying, another too dark and another one never stays on ... none of them are The One. Nothing ages a face like the following: dark lipstick, lipstick bleeding into fine lines, cracked or thin lips, obvious lip liner, overly matte lipstick or fake plumped lips. Women of every age are looking for the perfect pout—plush lips with a soft, pillowy appearance, a smooth-as-satin surface and an inviting, juicy hue.
8 anti-aging commandments for the perfect pout 1. Prime the lips for color. a. Recommend a professional lip contour treatment—an exfoliating and moisturizing treatment that restores hydration immediately, leaving the lip contour area plump and wrinkles properly diminished, giving the lips a more youthful appearance. b. Exfoliate lips once a week. Retail lip exfoliators, and instruct clients to run a dry, extra soft toothbrush or damp washcloth over their lips to slough off dead skin cells. Page 118 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com
anti-aging makeup tips for the perfect pout
c. Apply a lip serum or balm. Massage it in for 30 seconds. This helps stimulate blood vessels. Conditioning agents will fill cracks on chapped lips. If applied at the end of the skin care regime and before the makeup application, lips are sure to look soft, naturally rosy and their absolute fullest prior to the application of lip color, creating the perfect canvas for a smooth application. 2. Protect the pout. Prevent rays from parching a pucker by applying a balm or gloss that contains SPF 15 during the day.
photo: Tasha Lavigne/Shutterstock.com
3. Conceal the evidence. a. Dot concealer along the edge of the upper lip. This will fill in the lines and prevent lipstick from feathering into them. b. Apply a clear lip liner around the outer edge of the entire lip. The waxy texture will keep color pigments and glosses in place. 4. Shape it up. a. The older you get, the more you need lip liner. It helps define the lips, keeps them from disappearing, and can make them appear fuller and shapelier. The key here is that liner should give the illusion of a fuller lip—but the liner itself should never be visible. b. Choose a liner that is close to the client’s natural lip color. c. The secret anti-aging tip for lining aging lips is to limit the application only to where it is needed. The top lip line is the one that thins most noticeably, both in terms of width and plumpness (loss of collagen). If the top lip is still full and well shaped, concentrate on the Cupid’s bow of the lip, following its natural lip line. If the top lip has thinned out, give it the illusion of volume by starting in the middle of one side and arching up toward the Cupid’s bow, lining the very outer edge of the natural lip line. Accentuate the peaks. Arch back down to the middle of the other side. Smudge the color over the ridge of the pout with your finger. If the bottom lip gets lost underneath the top lip, just line the bottom lip. If the entire lip needs plumping, try not to draw one continuous circle around the entire mouth. Draw broken lines instead. Skip the corners of the mouth; this can visually close in the lips. d. After shaping the lips, fill in both the upper and lower lips with the liner. This helps lipstick adhere better, last longer and leave some color (and no “ring”), even as it wears off. e. Blend a thin line of liquid highlighter along the Cupid’s Bow, lightly enough that it will bounce off it and play up this curvy area. October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Before glossing, fill in the lips completely with a pencil that matches the lip ; apply a waxy balm that will create a smooth, water-resistant base beneath the gloss; then apply a thin layer of gloss to the center of the mouth using a fingertip or wand. 5. Succumb to the power of pink. a. The right pink lightens up the mouth with a shimmery luminosity that helps compensate for the loss of glow in the complexion and the loss of water/moisture in the lips that occurs as we age. b. A pink that is one or two shades lighter than the lip color is The One. c. It’s tough to wear darker colors, as they emphasize the dark circles under eyes. The darker the color, the thinner your lips will look. And when the vertical lines around aging lips meet up with dark lip colors, the result isn’t pretty. d. Lipstick shades should be coordinated with the client’s skin color, not their clothes. e. The most natural looking shade is close to the natural lip color, just glossier and slightly deeper. f. Find the perfect neutral-test shades by covering half of the mouth with the lipstick, and leave the other half bare. If the lipstick side is the same tone as the naked side but slightly deeper and glossier, then you’ve nailed it! g. Don’t forget—choosing a great lipstick color is more about a client’s personal style than hard rules. The goal is to add color and vibrancy back into aging lips. 6. In the quest for the perfect pink, texture counts. a. Look for creamy lipsticks and hydrating glosses. They contain moisturizing ingredients such as emollients, vitamin E and shea butter, which give the mouth a plusher payoff than drier lip stains and matte formulas that can gather in the creases and won’t add enough shine. b. Gloss can last for more than six minutes. Lip gloss is a weightless, easy and totally irresistible anti-aging must have for the perfect pout—three quick fixes to make it last longer. continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 119
image|pucker up Before glossing, fill in the lips completely with a pencil that matches the lip; apply a waxy balm that will create a smooth, water-resistant base beneath the gloss; then apply a thin layer of gloss to the center of the mouth using a fingertip or wand. The gloss will migrate naturally to the edge of the lip. c. Use two complimentary lip hues. Apply a shimmery rose colored gloss, then apply a paler pink version over it. Layering two colors creates the illusion of depth so the mouth looks ultra plush. d. Trick of the trade: To make lips look fuller, dot a shimmery gloss right in the center of the lower lip. The more reflective the formula, the fuller it will make the lips appear. 7. Master the application—embrace the lip brush. a. Neutral colors and sheer formulas can be applied directly from the tube. Use a lip brush to apply darker and brighter colors that require precise application. For natural looking definition and to keep color from feathering, line lips with a lip pencil after applying color. Soften and blend any harsh edges with a lip brush. b. Use long, smooth strokes with a lip brush to obtain a smooth, flawless application of the lip product; laying down any dry skin on the lips. 8. Be thorough. a. During menopause, when hormone levels are in flux, many women notice more hair than usual on the upper lip and chin. Nothing will look worse than a mustache and chin hairs—remove immediately! b. Make teeth look brighter. Clients can get professional whitening treatments or use at-home kits. Regardless of the method, whiter teeth will energize a smile and take years off your client’s visage. Applying a lipstick or gloss with blue undertones, such as plum or cherry is an instant smile fixer. Blue undertones will downplay any yellowness in the enamel so the teeth look whiter. Women tend to get stuck in looks and beauty rituals from a time in their lives when they feel they looked their best. Our goal as beauty professionals is to help them create their new ideal, which will allow them to put their best face forward at any age. Help your clients embrace the idea that it’s not about looking young for their age, it’s about looking great at their age. Maria Calabresa-Echelard is a makeup artist, licensed esthetician and owner of Gamine Productions and Gamine Beauty Bar. She specializes in modern beauty makeup and has experience in runway, retail, television and print. Echelard teaches courses in makeup and esthetics for both seasoned and future professionals. Find out more at www.gaminebeautybar.com. Contact her at firstname.lastname@example.org or 954.461.1226. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #183 on reader service card
Page 120 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #224 on reader service card
TIME REVERSING COVER-UP TimeSeal Cosmetics is an antiaging makeup line that delivers luxury cosmetics in addition to nutrition for youth maintenance. The Anti-Aging Cream Concealer With BioFirm 7 Complex is the first product of the line. The anti-aging concealer is made up of a unique blend of seven anti-aging ingredients. It targets cells to provide detoxification, hydration and nourishment within the skin. The special formula firms and tones the skin to help prevent wrinkles and crow’s feet, while the satin textured finish flawlessly covers minor imperfections and creates a lifting effect around the eye area. www.timesealcosmetics.com
BEHIND THE SCENES
MAKEUP, TOOLS AND TRENDS
MADE FOR MEN Lady Burd Cosmetics has launched new packaging for their Men’s Skincare line for the fall of 2012. The line, which has new and improved masculine packaging, includes a facial cleanser, a facial scrub, a shave gel, a cooling aftershave, a moisturizer and a muscle rub. www.ladyburd.com
For the fall and winter season starting in 2012, ARABESQUE introduces the So Charming shade range collection. The medley of mesmerizing soft hues brings out the natural beauty of every woman. Eye products come in deep shades like orange, purple and burgundy, while brilliant hues of brown and pink beautify nails. www.arabesque-makeup.com
Renowned makeup artist Pamela Taylor recently worked behind the scenes for two prominent fashion magazines, Vogue Magazine (Mexican edition) and W Magazine. She worked with fashion and accessories editor Karla Martinez for W Magazine. In this image, Taylor stands for a portrait with distinguished artist Ruben Toledo. www.pamelataylor.com
Godefroy® Eyebrow Lightening Crème can lighten the color of eyebrows to create a softer, more natural look that can also better compliment one’s hair color. It can lighten the brows by as many as four levels, and can also be used to lighten hair on the face, arms and body. www.godefroybeauty.com
Page 122 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
products • distributors • services • training • new/used equipment • employment
PRODUCTS Refectocil Tint Pure Black, Blue-Black, Natural Brown, Light Brown, Deep Blue, Graphite, Chestnut, Red and Blonde Bleaching Paste. 1.877.547.5463 www.dermagraphicsinc.com
EMPLOYMENT RD Management is the USA agent for several International companies. Specifically, we are looking for Superior Sales Reps for two important brands: MATIS-Paris and Academie Scientifique – Two outstanding skincare lines. We are also looking for part time trainers for each of these brands. Prime territories are available – territories can be flexible full or part-time. Come grow with us! Contact us for more details and to submit your resume email to: DAR@MyRDM.com Éminence Organic Skin Care is looking for their next outstanding International Trainer. Must be a licensed esthetician, have 2 years experience with Éminence products and willing to travel extensivly. Previous training experience an asset. Visit www.eminenceorganics.com to learn more.
We are a French cosmeceutical skin care company distributed through a network of 70 business partners in 64 countries around the world. We are actually looking for an exclusive business partner in the USA. For more information please visit our website at www.ericson-laboratoire.com or send an e-mail to email@example.com Image Skincare seeks Territory Managers to join U.S. sales force Are you an esthetician? Do you want an income with no limits? Do you have sales experience? Are you self-motivated with an entrepreneurial mindset? Would you like a flexible schedule? Do you LOVE this business? If you have answered “yes” to these questions and are interested in working for the most fun, dynamic and innovative company in the cosmeceutical industry, send your resume to firstname.lastname@example.org and visit http://www.imageskincare.com/pages/job-opportunities for a list of available territories.
DAILY BREAKING NEWS ... WEB-EXCLUSIVE ARTICLES TRADE SHOW INFORMATION ... AND SO MUCH MORE
Anti-Aging Facial Protocol This month win a grand prize from Le Mieux valued at $384 Check out the working steps from Le Mieux and enter the drawing for a chance to win!*
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BE CHOSEN MONTHLY BY A RANDOM DRAWING AND WILL BE NOTIFIED BY E-MAIL. PRIZE WILL BE SENT DIRECTLY FROM THE SPONSOR.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #195 on reader service card
To place an ad, please call 800.471.0229 ext. 103, e-mail email@example.com or visit www.lneonline.com.
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 123
WEST | CENTRAL | EAST
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
West OCTOBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. Distance learning available.
Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424. HydroPeptide Product Training Seminar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 10 a.m. PST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.
OCTOBER 1 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Denver, CO. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Riverside, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 2 Webinar: Melanogenesis and Pigmentation by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.
OCTOBER 4 Webinar: Addressing Acne by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.
Page 124 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
West Central East International
Methode Physiodermie Product Knowledge by Methode Physiodermie. Denver, CO. 800.263.8888.
2 Day “Skin-tensive” Training: Advanced Skin Histology, Analysis and Treatments by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.
Bio-Synthesis Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
Physiotonifying of the Face by Methode Physiodermie. Denver, CO. 800.263.8888. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 15 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. Inside the Age Defying Facial by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
map: ©iStockphoto.com/Malcolm Romain
OCTOBER 8 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Webinar: Skin Texture by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.
Bio-Dermology Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.P
OCTOBER 14 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN.PTES October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
OCTOBER 17 Bio-Ultimate Platinum Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 19 Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 21 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Albuquerque, NM. 877.PCA.SKIN. In-House Product Knowledge Training by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Fresno, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 22 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.PTE continues www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 125
CALENDAR OF EVENTS Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fresno, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Albuquerque, NM. 877.PCA.SKIN.PTES
Bt-GEAR by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT
Bio-Ultimate Platinum Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT
OCTOBER 22-23 2 Day “Skin-tensive” Training: Advanced Skin Histology, Analysis and Treatments by Skin Script Skin Care. Tempe, AZ. 480.543.1121.
NOVEMBER 28 Bio-HydrodermV2 Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Albuquerque, NM. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 28 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Francsico, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.P
NOVEMBER 30 Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 29 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 5 Make More Money With Your Microcurrent! Utilizing Your Device Beyond the Age Defying Facial by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT
Central OCTOBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150.
HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 12 p.m. C.S.T. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars.
OCTOBER 1 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 7 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 8 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 9 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 14 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Page 126 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.PT
ES OCTOBER 16
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Birmingham, AL. 877.PCA.SKIN. ES continues
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Minneapolis, MN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Milwaukee, WI. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card
October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 127
CALENDAR OF EVENTS OCTOBER 22 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Milwaukee, WI. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Birmingham, AL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 28-29 Concierge Aesthetics by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. San Antonio, TX. 800.689.0499.PTE
East OCTOBER (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.
Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.
Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.
Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST. www.hydropeptide.com/webinars. Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference Skincare. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.
Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.
OCTOBER 1 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Washington, DC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 1-2 2-Day Hydra-Medic Problem Skin Workshop by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.
Page 128 • www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • October 2012
OCTOBER 8 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Albany, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 22 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN.P E
OCTOBER 14 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 15 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. October 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 28 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Nashville, TN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 28-29 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines. Philadelphia, PA. 800.471.0229.
OCTOBER 29 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Nashville, TN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 29-31 3-Day Anti-Aging Academy: Aging Factors Influencing Visible Aging of the Skin & Professional Solutions by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.
TRADE SHOWS Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2012 October 28-29 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2013 April 7-8 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2013 May 5-6 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013 September 29-30 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013 October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229
www.LNEONLINE.com • Page 129
advertisers’ index Page Number
Reader Service No.
58............... 5 Star Formulators................................................... www.5starformulators.com............................................. 180 5................. A Natural Difference............................................... www.anaturaldifference.com.......................................... 232 36............... Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts.......................... www.arcskincare.com..................................................... 120 88............... Allied Health Association........................................ www.alliedhealth.net...................................................... 209 49............... Athena Beauty Inc................................................... www.athenabeauty.com................................................. 162 2-3............. Aveda...................................................................... www.aveda.com............................................................. 130 120............. Beautiful Image....................................................... www.beautifulimagellc.com........................................... 183 6,22-23...... Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... www.bio-therapeutic.com.............................................. 139 48............... Biomani................................................................... www.biomaniskincare.com............................................. 276 57............... Bioslimming............................................................ www.bioslimming.com................................................... 335 45............... Bon Vital’................................................................. www.bonvital.com.......................................................... 265 62............... Brushes by Karen..................................................... www.brushesbykaren.com.............................................. 104 24............... Christina.................................................................. www.christina-usa.com................................................... .107 89............... Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... www.circadia.com.......................................................... 101 21............... Clarisonic................................................................ www.clarisonic.com/professional................................... .352 109............. Cosmétiques France Laure..................................... www.francelaure.com..................................................... .199 132............. Darphin................................................................... www.darphin.com.......................................................... .159 70............... Dermaesthetics....................................................... www.dermaestheticsusa.com......................................... 197 58............... Dermafile................................................................ www.dermafile.com....................................................... 296 33............... DermAware............................................................. www.dermaware.com..................................................... .256 47............... DPC......................................................................... www.dpc2000.com......................................................... 146 41............... Dr. Grandel.............................................................. www.grandel-usa.com.................................................... 109 75............... Dr. Jeff..................................................................... www.dr-jeff.com............................................................. 248 17............... Edge Systems........................................................... www.HydraFacial.com.................................................... 201 14-15...........Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. www.eminenceorganics.com............................................ 157 44................Enspri...................................................................... www.enspriskincare.com.................................................. 318 37............... Equipro................................................................... www.equipro-bty.com...................................................... 242 8................. Eve Taylor................................................................. www.evetaylornorthamerica.com................................... 228 80............... Extend Your Lashes................................................... www.extendyourlashes.com........................................... 236 78............... Global Skin Solutions................................................ www.globalskin-solutions.com....................................... 333 106............. Hale Cosmeceuticals................................................. www.halecosmeceuticals.com........................................ 133 39............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... www.hydropeptide.com................................................... 278 107............. Image Skincare........................................................ www.imageskincare.com.................................................. 178 9................. Innovative Skincare................................................. www.isclinical.com........................................................... 240 131............. Jojoba Company...........................................................www.jojobacompany.com.............................................. 108 35............... Laboratoires Reynard................................................ www.labreynard.com...................................................... 148 13............... Lady Burd......................................................................www.ladyburd.com........................................................ 119 19............... Le Mieux.......................................................................www.lemieuxcosmetics.com.......................................... 294 11............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic Research....................www.lucrece.com........................................................... .263 59............... Michael Marcus............................................................www.michaelmarcus.com............................................... 169 53............... Nature Pure Labs...................................................... www.naturepure.com..................................................... 316 55............... Osmosis................................................................... www.osmosisskincare.com............................................. 111 43............... PCA Skin.......................................................................www.pcaskin.com........................................................... 110 117............. PFB Vanish....................................................................www.pfbvanish.com....................................................... 229 74............... Professional Program Insurance Brokerage..............www.medispa-ins.com................................................... 208 121............. Rapidlash......................................................................www.rapidlash.com........................................................ 224 127............. Rejuvi.............................................................................www.rejuviLab.com........................................................ 149 101............. Repêchage.....................................................................www.repechage.com...................................................... 196 66............... Saian........................................................................ www.saian.net................................................................ 165 69............... Satin Smooth............................................................ www.satinsmooth.com................................................... 304 54............... Select Spa Source..........................................................www.selectspa.com........................................................ 253 20............... Sesha Skin Therapy........................................................www.seshaskin.com........................................................ 271 7................. Shira...............................................................................www.shirausa.com.......................................................... 249 63............... Silhouet-Tone.......................................................... www.silhouet-tone.com.................................................. 192 103............. Skin Care Consultants................................................ www.lamskin.com........................................................... 230 95............... Szep Élet/ilike.................................................................www.szepelet.com......................................................... 274 92............... Tecniche.........................................................................www.tecniche.com......................................................... 153 123............. Teka Fine Line Brushes...................................................www.tekabrushonline.com............................................. 195 87............... Terraderma/Pibbs.................................................... www.pibbs.com.............................................................. 129 85............... Vitelle...................................................................... www.vitellelab.com........................................................ 206
*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
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Pure & Safe
for even a newborn’s skin
Our HobaCare® 100% Pure Jojoba: The Professional’s Choice Aestheticians, massage therapists, and aroma therapists use our HobaCare® Jojoba on their clients and, most flattering of all, on themselves. They know our jojoba is absolutely pure; it has no fillers, additives or preservatives. And, it’s incredibly versatile. Use our HobaCare Jojoba for: • removing make-up, facial massage, and deep-cleansing the skin • all massage modalities requiring direct contact with the skin • revitalizing hair and scalp • enriching the skin after a shower or bath • providing soothing relief from psoriasis • conditioning and softening cuticles • soothing skin after exposure to the sun • blending essential oils (our website has many useful recipes)
Available in Pesticide-Free and USDA Certified 100% Organic in gallons as well as in the sizes shown above. (Litre, 250 ml, 125 ml and 1 oz)
HobaCare is non-allergenic. It does not stain, and does not clog pores or turn rancid. Our Jojoba has an indefinite shelf life.
Pure and safe for everyone’s skin
no animal testing / cruelty-free
no animal testing / cruelty-free
The Jojoba Company Since 1994
Contact Us firstname.lastname@example.org
1-800 - 2 JOJOBA ( 1-800-256-5622 )
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #108 on reader service card
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #159 on reader service card