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LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals February 2015


A Awardwinning inning organic skin care

with results. Favorite Skin Care Line 6 Years in a Row

Favorite Company for Product Education 6 Years in a Row Favorite Body Care Line Favorite All Natural Line Finalist for: Favorite Sensitive Skin Line Favorite Anti-Aging Line Favorite Sun Care Line

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic Ž skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit

Thanks a Bunch!

A sincere thank you from all of us at Éminence Organic Skin Car e for voting us Favorite Skin Car e Line and Favorite Company for Product Education in the Amer ican Spa Professional’s Choice Award s for 6 Years in a Row! Thank you to all our loyal customers and spa partners for your support.

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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V o lume 30

Number 2



Creating the Perfect Treatment Room Combination Protocols and Ingredients to Delay Invasive Procedures Skin News

10 18 26

Ayurveda 101  100 Saving Face108 Organic & Wellness News 116

Ayurveda 101 page 100

Spa of the Month: Cowshed Spa at Soho House, Chicago, III. page 36

SPA Spa of the Month36 Hands Down! 46 Waxing Etiquette for All 56 70

Spa News

Do You Know Your ABCs? page 120

IMAGE Let’s Talk Makeup with Nichole Bertucci 118 Do You Know Your ABCs?120 Image News  126

EQUIPMENT GUIDE Fusing Touch with Technology Body Works80 Choosing the Right Equipment for Your Spa 81 Marketing Technology Enhancing Treatments at your Spa 85


Equipment Guide page 71

EXTRAS From the Editor LNE & Spa’s Best Product 2015 Calendar of Events Advertiser Index

6 28 128 130

BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Adam Estrella 90 Tear Down The Walls  92 Business News  98

Cover Courtesy of Jean Louis David

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

Page 4 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

“HydraFacial MD® exceeded our ROI expectations in less than 4 months and keeps our guests coming back. We’re already buying our second device!” Nichole Hester, Spa Director Chuan Spa at The Langham Pasadena Customer since June 2014

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HydraFacial MD® values your time and business goals by offering a patented delivery system that brings long-lasting skin health to your clients and increases your revenue in record time.

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HydraFacial and HydraFacial MD are registered trademarks of Edge Systems LLC. Edge For Life and My Life. My Time. My Skin. are trademarks of Edge Systems LLC. This product and its use are covered by one or more U.S. and International patents. Patent info: Other U.S. and foreign patents pending. Copyright© 2015 Edge Systems LLC. All rights reserved.

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 5

from the

editor your business, your way...

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa presents our highly anticipated February 2015 issue, the annual edition in which we share the news you’ve all been waiting for—this year’s LNE & Spa BEST winners! Our special photo feature on page 28 showcases every exceptional nominee and winner within 38 all encompassing categories of products and equipment,

NO minimum buy in.

highlighting the most outstanding innovations the industry

A Forward Thinking Skin Care line easily tailored to fit your vision, budget, backbar, and retail.

We extend our heartfelt congratulations to the nominees

has to offer.

and winners, and a warm thanks to all our readers for casting your votes! As always, our latest issue presents an abundance of cuttingedge content to help you continue growing your skills, knowledge and business. In keeping with the increasing popularity of technology enhanced spa services, our Equipment Guide on page 71 is packed with expert insight on all aspects of this subject. Get the inside scoop on the broad range of high tech treatments trending in spas right now, how to market

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technology enhanced treatments, and advice for investing in the best equipment for your spa. Don’t forget to mark your calendar for The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach on March 1-2 at the Miami Beach Convention Center to be part of the biggest learning and networking event in the industry. See all details at We’ll see you there! n

—Amanda Clinton Winter, REV080414

Page 6 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

ThankYOU for voting us #1 again

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Bio-Brasion® TRINITY Wet/Dry Microdermabrasion Why over pay by thousands of dollars for microdermabrasion when you can get the best for under $4,500. Call us today and get the #1 rated wet/dry microdermabrasion device with unparalleled customer service and superior education support.

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It’s the Smart Choice. • Page 7

3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 e-mail: Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter


Art Director Andres Gutierrez Graphic Designer Charlie Jackman


Associate Editor Nathalie Gouillou Director of Sales Aché Saint Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo

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Exhibitor Operations Manager Mayli Tenorio


This kit lasts 6+ treatments.



International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontr ibutors Rhonda Allison

Nathalie Gouillou

Robert Sachs

Melissa Black

Jennifer Linder, M.D.

Amy Shvartzman

Caroline Canetti

Laetitia Longuefosse

David Suzuki

Jessica Davies

Alex Koo Murray

Cindy Williams


BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

Page 8 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

Visit us at the ICES Miami Beach Show BOOTH #607-609



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THE Perfect TREATMENT room combination Page 10 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

With J u s t the Right Ingredients by Rhonda Allison

S k i n r e s u r f a c i n g is big business and it’s only expected to grow. This isn’t new, however the way in which clients achieve youthful results has been greatly enhanced. Demand for laser, light therapy and other non-invasive procedures is on the rise. According to a recent report, it’s expected to increase by 15 percent by 2019 as clients look to correct scars, discoloration issues and the signs of aging. So what does that mean for skin care professionals? Knowing how to effectively utilize these technologies has become an essential part of the esthetic practice. You must understand ways to combine them with other advanced modalities and ingredients to enhance results and recovery time and set your practice apart. Which ingredients and treatments have the biggest impact, and how can you leverage them to expand the effects of technologies like LED, laser, microneedling and microdermabrasion? Which combinations are best to avoid? • Page 11

skin | creating the perfect treatment room combination

Start with an Intelligent Foundation We are more equipped than ever to transform the skin and guide clients to the youthful, healthy results they want. Technologies, intelligent ingredients and time-tested corrective treatments work hand-in-hand to improve results. Technologies support the delivery and absorption of ingredients into the skin more rapidly and effectively, while ingredients and pre-treatments improve the results of technologies, speed recovery time and prevent certain negative side effects. This all starts with the right foundation. Intelligent ingredients represent the merging of time-tested, proven ingredients and scientific advancements to produce higher quality formulas. Some intelligent ingredients include:

- Epidermal growth factors (EGFs) - Deep-sea organisms like thermus thermophilus ferment - Retinals - Resveratrol - Vitamin C like ascorbic acid (L), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), and ascorbyl palmitate - Acids (glycolic, lactic, salicylic, kojic, TCAs, flower acids) - Zinc oxide - Peptide complexes - Antioxidants like vitamins A, C and E, bioflavonoids and polyphenols - Totarol - Anti-inflammatories and wound- repair topicals such as arnica, amino acids, and essential fatty acids

To Peel or not to Peel?


Certain peel procedures are excellent pre-treatment additions that prepare the skin and increase the rejuvenation. By layering technology with acids and enzymes, treatment frequency may often be cut in half, depending on the severity of the skin damage.

Microdermabrasion remains among the top-performed, non-invasive modalities used for skin rejuvenation. Typically enzymes and acids used prior to a microdermabrasion will aid in loosening the cells of the stratum corneum to complete the lifting process, and more effectively smooth and polish the skin. Using these elements afterward will allow for lifting of cells that still adhere, prompting the enzyme or acid to work harder and enhance the rejuvenation.

Keep in mind that the intensity of the treatment will guide which pre- or post-treatment may be used. For instance, if it’s a fairly aggressive laser treatment, you will want to wait several months before giving a peel treatment. Before you begin coupling peel treatments with other technologies, you must first be properly trained in administering peels, have an understanding of the various acid formulas and modalities available, and know how to read and understand skin.

Look for ingredients such as arginine, mandelic acid, arbutin and phytic and pyruvic acids to boost the effects of microdermabrasion while brightening, gently retexturing and regenerating the skin.

Page 12 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

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February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Visit our website: • Page 13

skin | creating the perfect treatment room combination

Talk to clients a couple of weeks prior to this type of treatment to ensure they don’t receive any other resurfacing treatments or facial waxing services.

Following the treatment it’s important that clients protect their skin with a mineral-based sunblock and use mild cleansers to keep skin well hydrated.


The regenerating effects of microdermabrasion can also be intensified by coupling the treatment with a cocktail of acids and enzymes. For instance, a combination of lactic acid, salicylic acid, and papain and bromelain enzymes will further exfoliate keratin and support tissue regeneration for smooth, polished and rejuvenated skin. Following the resurfacing treatment, a blend of antioxidants, vitamins B, C, D and K, along with potent building and fortifying extracts like growth factors will nourish, soothe, hydrate and strengthen the skin. Microdermabrasion is also a good fit for clients using corrective topicals like retinols, glycolic acid and high-

strength salicylic acid. It accelerates cell turnover and further stimulates skin for deeper repair and rejuvenation.

Retin-A, AHAs, BHAs and scrubs must be avoided for at least one week prior to treatment. Also, clients should be instructed not to receive any waxing or resurfacing treatments at least one week prior to any microdermabrasion that combines an acid.

To enhance the lightening or resurfacing effects of IPL (intense pulsed light), Fraxel or Pixel laser procedures, turn to enzymes or light peels using ingredients that will suppress melanin such as kojic acid, azelaic acid and lotus flower extract. When applied pre-treatment, they will support results and reduce some potential pigmentation issues. Prior to laser treatment, it’s often recommended to have the client use a daily lightening agent at home. Following a laser procedure, you will want to focus on hydrating, protecting and nourishing the skin to further accelerate the healing process. For this, non-irritating omega-6 essential fatty acids will provide nutritional and hydrating benefits, prevent the growth of bacteria and help fortify the skin. Other ingredients like hydrocortisone, resveratrol, vitamin C and E will provide antioxidant support. Thermus thermophilus ferment, apple stem cell and other deep-sea algae extracts also aid in preventing pigmentation, which can be one side effect of laser. Talk to clients a couple of weeks prior to this type of treatment to ensure they don’t receive any other resurfacing treatments or facial waxing services. Remind them to eliminate use of any retinols and potent enzymes, AHAs and BHAs for the last week prior to the treatment.

Page 14 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

skin | creating the perfect treatment room combination

Micro-needling Micro-needling, also known as Collagen Induction Therapy, is rapidly becoming one of the most popular treatments for improving the appearance of fine lines, acne scars and the skin’s overall appearance. It uses tiny needles to create microinjuries, which stimulates collagen and elastin production as the skin repairs itself. During the treatment, apply vitamin E and hyaluronic acid to help heal the inflammation that is created from the needling, and also provide hydration. Post-care topicals like peptides and epidermal growth factors are also imperative for speeding repair and recovery time, as well as preventing redness. Instruct your clients to forgo any waxing or resurfacing treatments until the skin has fully healed from the micro-needling procedure. They may use gentle enzymes, AHAs, BHAs and retinols prior to the treatment to prep the skin with your guidance, depending on the skin type and the kind of correction desired.

LED and Microcurrent When clients require an additional boost for firming, healing and repair, one of the most popular and effective procedures is to combine LED (light emitting diodes) light therapy with a corrective treatment. This provides nourishment and recharges the skin. The light intensifies the nutrients and corrective properties of certain ingredients to actively restore the skin to its youthful state.

When LED is used with certain acids like TCAs and AHAs such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and lactic acid, the firming, toning and cell turnover benefits are boosted. February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 15

skin | creating the perfect treatment room combination LED also supports the hydrating properties of certain ingredients like amino acids, hyaluronic acid, peptides and tocopherols, and help heal the skin from the inside out. For microcurrent treatments, instruct clients to use ingredients that gently retexture the skin one to two weeks before the procedure.

Since microcurrent offers a lift and tighten effect, ingredients like glycolic and salicylic acid (L), and peptides will enhance the firming of the skin, boosting the results from the microcurrent technology.

Serums and Treatments

Where to Use Caution

Serums are wonderful delivery systems for vital nutrients, epidermal growth factors, peptides, omegas, to name a few. Here are some commonly used treatments and how serums may be used with them:

When it comes to layering or merging technologies, you never want to bring the skin to pinpoint bleeding or break the skin. If this occurs, acids or enzymes are NOT to be used after. Layering is an advanced technique and requires proper training and knowing the potential implications of each step. When done appropriately the results are considerably noticeable. There are a few general guidelines to keep in mind:

Galvanic treatment: Do not use acids with this modality. It can be followed with any serum that’s appropriate for the skin type.

Magnetic infusion: Follow with omega and antioxidant-based serums.

Oxygen infusion: Prepare the skin

- Know the requirements of your state.

for this modality with enzymes and acids; follow with vitamins, omegas and peptides.

- It’s essential to undergo appropri-

Radiofrequency: Any serum may be

history on the client.

used in the post treatment.

Ultrasonic: Any serums may be used in post care, according to skin type and goals.

- Never do a peel on the first visit, or on clients using Retin-A, taking Accutane or who have received Botox or another injectable procedure that day. - Never apply an acid or enzyme if the skin is bleeding.

- Use products that are free of dyes and fragrances. These may have a negative effect on the skin. When all the pieces come together, the professional can literally make magic in the treatment room—then you have a client for a lifetime. n

ate training.

- Complete skin assessment and skin - Perform a patch test at least 48 hours before treatment.

Ultrasound: Hyaluronic serum may

- Not all modalities are meant to comingle; know the parameters of your technology.

be used prior to treatment, and any serum may be used after.

- Give clients home care instructions.

Vacuum suction: Any serum may be used after procedure.

- Take before-and-after photos to track progress of results.

Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the Founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RA Skin Care for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of esthetic experience. Visit and for more information.

Page 16 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

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Daily use of broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 is critical for all clients, regardless of their age. Retinol is an excellent ingredient for building collagen, normalizing cell turnover, evening skin tone and texture and working to inhibit the negative effects of MMP.

protocols and ingredients

to delay invasive procedures by Jennifer Linder, M.D. The relationship between an esthetician and their client is one founded on trust. This puts the esthetician in a unique position of becoming a resource and expert for their clients on many skin-related issues, even those that rest outside the scope of their licensure. It’s a delicate balance to offer advice on topics such as plastic surgery, since an esthetician must avoid diagnosing diseases and making recommendations for which they are not licensed. By having an open dialogue with patients, however, it’s possible for you to helpfully guide them through the stages of managing their aging skin, knowing what you can do to help them delay (or avoid) the need to visit a plastic surgeon.

Understanding basic skin structure Healthy and youthful skin is supported by the extracellular matrix (ECM); a complex network of biomolecules that support and protect the dermis. This “scaffolding” is critical to keeping

skin firm and full. With age, but mostly due to external factors, this ECM is broken down, leading to laxity, wrinkling and a loss of the facial fullness typical of a youthful appearance.

As a clinician, helping your clients protect and regenerate this all-important matrix throughout their lifetime can help reduce the potential for needing surgical procedures later in life. The common stages of aging Although the skin’s aging process begins in one’s mid-20s, with slowed collagen production and lagging cell turnover, most clients don’t start age control practice in earnest until they reach their 30s and 40s.

During the 30s and 40s, it is crucial to educate clients about the importance of daily sun protection to guard skin from unnecessary breakdown caused by UV exposure. • Page 19

skin | protocols and ingredients to delay invasive procedures

The severity of the visible signs of aging will vary greatly between clients depending on their previous lifestyle choices, and whether or not they use sunscreen and preventative topical products on a daily basis.

30s and 40s During the 30s and 40s, it is crucial to educate clients about the importance of daily sun protection to guard skin from unnecessary breakdown caused by UV exposure.

Now is also the time to introduce them to antioxidants and collagen-building products that will help increase facial volume and minimize the appearance of wrinkles.

It takes only one tenth the amount of UV exposure that it takes to develop sunburn to turn on the matrix metalloproteinase enzymes (MMP) that are responsible for breaking down collagen and other important matrix components. Daily use of broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 is critical for all clients, regardless of their age. Retinol is an excellent ingredient for building collagen, normalizing cell turnover, evening skin tone and texture and working to inhibit the negative effects of MMP.

Other MMP inhibitors (MMPi) are: • Tocopherol • Resveratrol • L-ascorbic acid (which is also an important collagen-builder) • Beta-carotene • Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) from green tea

Peptides are also an important ingredient category for clients looking to delay surgery and sustain youthful skin. There are three common types of peptides used in skin care: neurotransmitter-affecting peptides, carrier peptides and signal peptides.

Neurotransmitter-affecting peptides Neurotransmitter-affecting peptides work to interfere with transmissions of signals that cause muscle contractions. One that is commonly used in skin care is acetyl hexapeptide-8, a chain of six amino acids that has demonstrated a 30 percent decrease in the depth of wrinkles with twice-daily use for 30 days. Page 20 •

A next generation neurotransmitter-affecting peptide that is beginning to be more widely used in topicals is dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, a peptide that has a fast-acting wrinkle smoothing effect around the eyes, diminishing wrinkles and expression lines.

Carrier peptides Carrier peptides increase the uptake of copper by cells when it’s used with a tripeptide. Copper plays a role in increasing collagen, glycosaminoglycan and adhesive protein production.


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skin | protocols and ingredients to delay invasive procedures

Signal peptides Signal peptides are used to instigate specific actions within the skin. These peptides are shown to stimulate collagen production and, in some cases, elastin production. Some common signal peptides are: • Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 • Palmitoyl oligopeptide Some newer signal peptides are: • Myristoyl pentapeptide-8 • Myristoyl hexapeptide-4 • Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 These are shown to increase the production of many important matrix components to strengthen and improve the appearance of aging skin.

It’s also wise to suggest monthly chemical peel treatments to keep cell turnover normalized and the surface of the skin smooth, and to increase the penetration of anti-aging products applied topically.

These strategies during the 30s and early 40s can help delay the potential necessity for surgical intervention as your clients grow older.

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Enter to win the $149 Giveaway It’s really in the 50s when more dramatic loss of facial volume and laxity become more apparent. The drop in estrogen production as women move into menopause has been proven to play a role in the slowing of the production of matrix components. This, in conjunction with the breakdown of existing collagen due to genetic factors, as well as UV exposure, leads to more dramatic volume loss in the face, which is often a motivator for patients to seek out surgical options. At this stage it’s often sufficient to add in the use of injectable fillers. Page 22 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

skin | protocols and ingredients to delay invasive procedures

Injectables Injectables must be performed by qualified medical staff, but can be an option for the esthetician to suggest to their clients. This is a great example of the importance of having a good relationship with a dermatologist and plastic surgeon to whom you can refer those you treat. A referral for injectables would not end your close relationship, as your clients would still need to focus on regular peels and consistent anti-aging skin care in order to maintain the results they have achieved with you previously. February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 23

skin | protocols and ingredients to delay invasive procedures

When it’s time to refer your client The use of poly L-lactic acid and other volume enhancers can make a dramatic difference in a person’s appearance without surgery. That said, there does come a time when excessive wrinkling and laxity cannot be overcome without some surgical lifting. Once you believe that this time may have come, it is wise to refer your clients to a trusted plastic surgeon for a consultation. Again, this is only a supplement to your services for the client, not a handing over. If surgery is the client’s preferred path, properly caring for skin prior to a surgical procedure greatly improves the outcome.

Regardless of what procedures a client ultimately undergoes, having healthy, resilient skin prior to the surgery will lead to a more positive outcome. Having a facelift may tighten skin, but if the skin being tightened is coarse, discolored and lacking volume, these negative attributes will not be alleviated by the surgery. As an esthetician, you can help your clients prepare for surgery by performing gentle, superficial chemical peels and ensuring that they are following a comprehensive, collagen-building regimen every day at home. n

Jennifer Linder, M.D. is a dermatologist and Mohs micrographic skin surgeon. She serves as chief scientific officer for PCA SKIN® and runs a private practice out of Scottsdale, AZ. Dr. Linder holds a clinical faculty position in the department of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco. She is a spokesperson for The Skin Cancer Foundation and a member of the American Academy of Dermatology.

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For every referral you give, you can also consider sending your card and a list of your services to the plastic surgeon’s office. If they don’t offer the professional skin treatments you offer in their business, they may return the favor and refer their patients to you as well.

The importance of healthy skin prior to procedures

Page 24 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015



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February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #256 on reader service card • Page 25

MARINE GOODNESS LiftLab Skin Regeneration’s NEW LIFT + PERFECT Total Rejuvenation is a multi-faceted, anti-aging skin care system targeting the visible signs of aging in one formula, says the company. The cream, formulated with LiftLab’s patented Cell Protection Proteins, increases the production of collagen and elastin for wrinkle repair.


POWER TREAT Lady Burd’s Acne Treatment Gel targets oily, acne prone skin. Massaged over the face daily after cleansing and toning, or used as a spot treatment, this gel controls oil and helps reduce the appearance of redness, says the company.




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moisture packed Sothys introduces its Hydradvance line with boletus mushroom extract that stimulates the genes so the skin regains its ability to hydrate itself, says the company. The Intense Hydrating Serum works with the Hydrating Cream to boost overall results and provide a balancing action that maintains skin’s hydration.


quench the thirst G.M. Collins’ latest Hydramucine Optimal Serum offers an around the clock hydration for dry skin, says the company. The light formula improves water circulation to all layers of the skin, and reinforces the cohesion between the cells to protect against moisture loss. The serum also optimizes water reserves by boosting glycosaminoglycan synthesis.


Page 26 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

Award Winning Performance Clinically Proven Results • The only LED device FDA cleared to treat with blue, red and infrared light simultaneously • Conforms closely to the area of treatment for optimal energy absorption

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February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 27



Last year, LNE & Spa announced the nominees for the 2015 LNE & Spa BEST awards. Our Educational Committee selected four nominees in 38 product and equipment categories, yet it was YOUR votes that made a difference. We proudly present the winners—and nominees—of the sought after LNE & Spa BEST title in each category for 2015!


Nominees: Jan Marini iS Clinical Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts






Ampoule Selection and Ampoule Mini-Bar

Nominees: Bella Schneider Dr. Jeff Skin Care Consultants

Nominees: Edge Systems DiamondTome Clarisonic 2015 Page 28 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

ANTI-CELLULITE LINE PHYTOCEANE Sculpt’ Intense Contouring and Firming

Nominees: Bioslimming Eve Taylor Mesoesthetic

BEAUTY OIL PURE FIJI Nourishing Exotic Oil

Nominees: Lira Clinical African Botanics Aveda






Bioelements Bio France Lab B. Kamins

BRIGHTENING PCA SKIN Brightening Therapy with True Tone

Nominees: Lucrèce GlyMed Plus Rena Levi

BODY LOTION JINDILLI Hydra-Opulence Body Lotion

Nominees: Sanítas Rhonda Allison Ultraluxe

2015 2015 February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 29



AGELESS Total Facial Cleanser



Lady Burd Darphin Paris June Jacobs




Fit Body Wrap Infra-Slim LILA Enterprise


Nominees: GliSODin Skin Nutrients M’lis Janssen Cosmetics


HAIR REMOVAL Laboratoires Reynard


Argan Oil Lukewarm Wax

Nominees: Cirépil Satin Smooth Hairaway



Nominees: Circadia Control Corrective Christina

Page 30 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

EYE PATCH MISENCIL Express Anti-Wrinkle Eye Treatment with Apple Stem Cell


Nominees: Thalgo Wilma Schumann Carita

REPÊCHAGE Algo Mist Hydrating Seaweed Facial Spray


Nominees: Kerstin Florian Avancé Joey New York 2015


Nominees: Taut Beauty Food Beauty Genesis 2015


Nominees: Revitalash Rapidlash Crave

CILSFRANCE Colored Rainbow Eyelash Extensions

Nominees: Lash Bomb Novalash Bella Lash 2015


February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 31


Nominees: LightStim Lightwave Technologies Harmonial



MAKEUP MINERALOGIE Eco-Chic Compact Pressed Bronzer

Nominees: Mirabella Colorescience Sothys

MASK SAIAN Pure Collagen Mask

Nominees: 2015

Martinni Beauty, Amber Products, Biodroga

MEN’S LINE TURO SKIN Regenerating Night Cream with Encapsulated Retinol

Nominees: Organic for Men RA for Men Gratiae

MASSAGE BON VITAL’ Therapeutic Touch Massage Lotion




Biotone Sombra Pino

Page 32 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

MOISTURIZER MATIS-PARIS Revitalizing Omega-3 Cream

Nominees: Enspri DermaQuest A.N.D. Skincare




Nominees: Lumavera Babor Tei Spa




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Zoya Mundial Impala Deborah Lippmann



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February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 33


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Aviva Labs SunFX Pro System Infinity Sun

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Page 34 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

STEM CELL ILIKE ORGANIC SKIN CARE Grape Stem Cell Solutions Moisturizer

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Coola TiZo MDSolarSciences 2015


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Aloe Replenishment Gel

Nominees: Vivoderm Set-N-Me-Free Maylán Skincare




Nominees: Monique Mathieu Vérité by Barco Yeah Baby 2015

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 35

SPA of the

MONTH English Country Luxe

COWSHED SPA at SOHO HOUSE, Chicago, Ill. by Laetitia Longuefosse

STRANGE NAME FOR A SPA! Cowshed is a quintessentially British brand that has stayed true to its English roots since it was founded at Babington House in the English countryside in 1998. As a brand that was born in a former cow shed, it’s no surprise that it’s taken a playful, relaxed approach to beauty. Cowshed’s sociable grooming philosophy welcomes guests to come in with friends and enjoy wine, sweets and a laugh without the worry of bothering others. Those in the mood for a more peaceful, relaxing experience can indulge in a body treatment in one of the tranquil treatments rooms.

Page 36 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 37

spa | spa of the month Chicago is a very special location for Cowshed as it is the first public facing U.S. location for Cowshed and Soho House. Launched on August 11, 2014, the facilities include six mani/ pedi chairs, five treatment rooms, two barber chairs and two relaxation rooms (one men, one women). “We keep the Cowshed experience consistent across our locations but not to the point of replication. We don’t want to create cookie-cutter spas but we want our customers to know they can expect the signature Cowshed experience at every location. We always tailor the design and treatments to fit the specific location we are in,” says Cowshed Spa Director Christina Rusillo. “In Chicago, I love the industrial accents in the space as we’re housed in a former belting factory dating back to 1907 and that feeling really comes through the walls with the exposed concrete. To warm it up, we’ve added our signature luxurious touches like our bespoke wingback armchairs, a tufted couch, and crystal chandeliers to add some feminine accents into the space.”

Women (mostly 25-45 years old) visit Cowshed for a fun, relaxed spa experience with the expectation of superior service and top-notch treatments. While many men (mostly 30-50 years old) enjoy the spa whether it’s for a hot shave, beard trim or a pedicure or massage. The rustic luxurious vibe (reclaimed barnwood floors and walls, vintage barber chairs, crystal chandeliers, bespoke leather chairs, etc.) and warm tones create an inviting, home away from home environment that makes everyone feel welcome.

MARKETING TECHNIQUES Soho House Chicago’s members and hotel guests provide a great foundation for cross-promoting the spa, products and treatments. All 40 bedrooms at Soho House have full-size Cowshed products in the full mood range in each bathroom. It’s a great way to introduce Cowshed products to a new audience or remind those familiar with the brand to come visit Cowshed and book a treatment.

The Allis, Soho House’s all-day café, bar and lounge on the lobbylevel, has become a great partner for Cowshed as it brings another dimension to the sociable grooming experience. Cowshed has many clients who come with a girlfriend or two for a mani/pedi and then head up to The Allis for drinks afterwards or vice-versa. Cowshed also collaborates on special events held in The Allis from offering speedy services to sharing marketing materials and special offers with their guests.

The rustic luxurious vibe (reclaimed barnwood floors and walls, vintage barber chairs, crystal chandeliers, bespoke leather chairs, etc.) and warm tones create an inviting, home away from home environment that makes everyone feel welcome.

Page 38 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015


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spa | spa of the month

MEMBERSHIP Cowshed doesn’t offer a membership program, however Soho House recently launched its own version of a loyalty program called Eat, Drink, Nap for both Soho House members and locals who frequent the public areas of the Chicago house. When one opens the app, it shows the various promotions Cowshed is offering that month, such as Waxing Wednesdays where clients received 20 percent off waxing services each Wednesday in November. Cowshed offers new promotions each month.

PARTIES! Cowshed is all about being social. Its ongoing initiatives like Fizz Fridays, where a glass of bubbly accompanies a mani or pedi, or where male clients can sip on a glass of scotch during their grooming services in the evening—a Scotch n’ Shave—keep up the social atmosphere of the spa. Cowshed also offers Pretty Parties for groups ranging in size from 8-15, where guests can reserve the spa on weekday evenings and each guest chooses two speedy (30-minute) treatments while enjoying wine, champagne, and small plates provided by The Allis. Guests can also add on a dinner option that includes dinner at Soho House’s restaurant, Pizza East, along with the wine, champagne, and small bites before treatments.

PARTNERSHIPS WITH LOCAL BUSINESSES Engaging with the local community is one of Cowshed top priorities: After only a few months, Cowshed is looking at doing a series of pop-ups with local businesses to gain more exposure and brand recognition within the community.

RETAIL Cowshed’s retail area blends well with the design of the space. Products are strategically placed on rustic wood shelves that also divide the space nicely, offering a bit of privacy between the barber area and the mani/pedi chairs.

TREATMENTS SKINCARE COWSHED EYE TREATMENT The treatment concentrates on the delicate area of the eyes incorporating pressure point massage and a collagen eye mask. It helps detoxify, reduce puffiness and combat fine lines (30 minutes, $65).

HANDS/FEET ULTIMATE COWSHED PEDICURE This deluxe foot treatment is designed to provide the ultimate in foot care. Nails are filed, cuticles are tidied and

Page 40 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

hardened skin is removed. This is followed by a relaxing leg and foot massage. Afterwards, the feet are wrapped in a hydration mask while the scalp and shoulders are massaged. This is followed by polish to finish (75 minutes, $65).

Engaging with the local community is one of Cowshed’s top priorities: After only a few months, Cowshed is looking at doing a series of popups with local businesses to gain more exposure and brand recognition within the community. February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 41

spa | spa of the month

Cowshed Spa at Soho House 113-125 North Green St. Chicago, Ill. 312.521.8000

THE SPA: Six mani/pedi chairs, five treatment rooms, two barber chairs and two relaxation rooms (one men, one women). 26 people including one spa director, one spa supervisor, eight hosts/spa coordinators, seven massage therapists, six nail technicians and three estheticians.




COWSHED MOODY MASSAGE For those feeling knackered, lazy or grumpy, a full body massage will suit the client’s mood with a choice of one of Cowshed’s six signature scents (60/90 minutes, $105/$130).

NEVILLE BARBER For men, Cowshed features a barber area for hot shaves, beard trims and men’s haircuts, which feature the brand’s Neville line, a tightly edited collection of men’s products inspired by grooming the old fashioned way.

Visit for more treatments and info

“We are very fortunate to have some of the best professionals in Chicago who have trained with some of the most reputable spas in the city. Their industry experience and ability to educate others about their craft is something that our clients highly value. They have truly embraced the Cowshed brand and Soho House Culture,” Russillo says.

TRAINING AT COWSHED Ongoing training is offered to the spa team, from retail training to treatment hands-on training. Trainings are provided by Cowshed Global Trainer from the UK and in house lead therapists. Format: Classroom/lesson format with hands-on training following. Frequency: Throughout the year, when new products or treatments launch.

Special Thanks to Christina Rusillo Spa Director, Cowshed Spa at Soho House, Chicago, Ill.

Cowshed, Cheeky, Neville, SkinCeuticals

REVENUE COMPOSITION: Massage: 40 percent Nails: 30 percent Facials: 20 Percent Retail: 18 percent Barber/Parlor: 10 percent

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Page 42 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015


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Page 46 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

HANDS Down! Choosing the right type of massage for your clients by Cindy Williams

As a massage therapist, offering skilled, hands-on work is a primary responsibility that you accept for the health and safety of your clients. Sounds simple, right? Maybe there’s more to your role than meets the eye. Embracing the notion that you are not only a massage therapist, but also a massage educator will benefit you tremendously in fulfilling your responsibility to your clients as you guide them to the right massage.

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 47

spa | hands down

When I was a new massage therapist, I couldn’t have imagined that my experience would involve blank stares from clients as we discuss what type of massage would best address their needs. “Whatever you think” was a common response. Educating your clients about massage empowers them to take charge of their well-being, utilizing their own knowledge and awareness to heal what ails them.

BENEFITS Research shows that most disease in the body is stress-induced, which makes every type of massage effective for positively addressing many conditions. Massage can provide much needed relief for everything from simple relaxation and tension reduction to specific pain, injury, inflammation, insomnia and anxiety.


If your client has a fever, infectious disease, advanced osteoporosis, varicose veins, broken bones or some skin irritations, massage should either not be performed, or should only be applied to unaffected areas of the body.

It is essential that first-time massage clients fill out an intake form detailing their health history to ensure safety. This form should ask what medications they are taking and surgeries they have undergone. Therapists should discuss the information provided on this form with the client before the treatment to determine pace, depth and areas that might need to be avoided or worked on with extra caution. The following guidelines explain the specific techniques and highlight the unique attributes of each type of massage, so you can help your clients choose the best service to meet their needs.

WESTERN MASSAGE STYLES Swedish Massage Dating back to the 1800s, Swedish massage is the most widely known style of Western massage. If in doubt about what type of massage to recommend for a beginner, Swedish is a great place to start. Swedish Massage is often

administered in long, gliding strokes, though other techniques can be utilized as well (such

Page 48 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #303 on reader service card

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 49

spa | hands down

as kneading, wringing, squeezing, friction, vibration and tapotement). The pace can also be varied from slow to fast depending on the intended outcome. For example, if the client is seeking a deeply calming treatment, a slower pace is most suitable. If increased stimulation and circulation is the goal, a faster pace is more appropriate. Swedish massage can be performed with the client partially or fully disrobed, whichever your client prefers, making it a perfect service for clients who prefer not to get completely undressed. They can remain clothed from the waist down to receive massage only on the back and neck, for example. This adds yet another way that Swedish massage can be adapted to the needs of almost any client. • Relaxes the entire body • Boosts circulation and lymph movement • Promotes the healthy healing of scar tissue

Deep Tissue Massage

Deep tissue refers to specific techniques. Myofascial release, trigger point therapy, and neuromuscular therapy are used to access deeper layers of muscle and connective tissue. It’s best suited for clients seeking injury rehabilitation and pain management. Explain to your client that contrary to popular belief, deep tissue massage should not be received as a full body treatment, but rather specifically used on or near areas of adhesion, compromised range of motion and chronic tension. Throughout a deep tissue session, keep lines of communication open to ensure that you’re applying the right amount of pressure. If the body resists you, slow down, wait, and sink in deeper as the tissue yields. Applying force beyond what the body allows will overwork the tissue, likely causing your client to tense up rather than release tension, resulting in negative effects post-massage. Make sure your clients understand that they will be sore in areas of concentration following a deep tissue session. • Releases chronic muscle tension • Reduces pain • Loosens scar tissue • Addresses compromised range of motion • Promotes healing for injured muscles

Aromatherapy Massage

During an aromatherapy massage, essential oils are either blended with the massage oil or applied directly onto the skin to promote various states of well-being, enhancing the inherent benefits of massage. Whatever condition your client is seeking relief from, there is an appropriate oil to address it, which makes aromatherapy massage a possible alternative for clients who want stronger results without deeper work. However, essential oils are potent, so make sure you ask your client if they have a reaction to strong smells or skin sensitivity. Aromatherapy is an expansive topic, which requires training in order to be proficient, so you should only incorporate these aromatherapy oils if you are properly trained.

Page 50 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

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February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #178 on reader service card • Page 51

spa | hands down

Hot Stone Massage Heated stones can be incorporated into massage to penetrate deeper layers of the muscles for stronger effect. Hot stones can be incorpo-

rated into any customized massage to create the ultimate healing and relaxing experience. Stones heated at 110-130 degrees Fahrenheit are applied to the skin with gliding strokes. • Maximizes relaxation and tissue softening • Promotes deep relaxation and stress reduction • Especially helpful for clients suffering from chronic pain from arthritic conditions and carpal tunnel syndrome Keep in mind that hot stone massage has several contraindications that differ from other varieties of massage. Pregnant women, children and elderly clients, as well as individuals with

diabetes, skin sensitivity and acute inflammation should not receive hot stone therapy.


The principle behind reflexology is that the entire body is reflected in zones on the hands, feet and ears. Applying pressure to these zones through acupressure and massage causes a direct affect to the corresponding organ, system or area of the body. Reflexology is a fantas-

tic option for clients who prefer to remain clothed or don’t want to receive touch on their entire body. • Reduces pain • Detoxifies • Provides relief for common forms of arthritis • Stimulates digestive regularity • Decreases stress throughout the entire body

Page 52 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #338 on reader service card • Page 53

spa | hands down

EASTERN MASSAGE STYLES Shiatsu Unlike Western massage approaches, traditional shiatsu is performed on a padded mat on the floor, with the client fully clothed. Pressure is

applied using fingers, thumbs and palms in a rhythmic sequence to open up lines of energy called meridians which, when congested, can cause a vast array of illness and disease. This style is suited for clients who prefer to remain clothed. Because compression rather than gliding is utilized, shiatsu massage is also a good alternative for ticklish clients. • Calms the nervous system • Improves range of motion • Relieves stress and tension in muscles

Thai Yoga Massage Originating in Thailand, this style of bodywork is often referred to as “lazy man’s yoga.” Like shiatsu, traditional Thai massage is performed on a padded mat on the floor with the client fully clothed, although modern Thai massage has recently been adapted to take place on a massage table. Slow, deep compressions

and passive yoga-like stretches incorporating breath are applied to the body to open lines of energy. This is great for clients who are ticklish or prefer not to get undressed, as recipients of this massage must wear loose, comfortable clothing for this massage. This is a good choice for clients interested in a session that leaves them feeling energized. • Improves flexibility

COMMUNICATION IS KEY! Whether your client is recovering from injury or simply looking for some bliss in the midst of life’s harried pace, open communication should always be part of your session. Asking about, listening to, and honoring your client’s needs and limitations is your ticket to success as a massage therapist. n

Cindy Williams has served the massage profession as a practitioner, school administrator, instructor, curriculum developer and mentor since 2000. She enjoys the challenge of blending structure with creative flow to provide balance in her classroom, bodywork practice and life. Her experience informs her role as ABMP school liaison, providing guidance to schools in the Western region of the U.S.

Page 54 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #140 on reader service card

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 55

waxing etiquette [for all]

Because Good Manners Matter

by Melissa Black

Body waxing services

, especially Brazilian waxing, require the bedside manner of an OB/GYN, the personality of a prime talk show host, the direction of a magician, and the talent of a fabulous esthetician all rolled into one! Let’s review waxing etiquette and tips for men, women (including teens, pregnant and mature women) and those with health or physical challenges—while punctuating the importance of successfully making people feel comfortable with the uncomfortable. Having been in the industry for more than two decades, it’s become my passion to make clients feel comfortable naked. Etiquette isn’t just for the dinner table. The main focus for waxing etiquette is putting our clients at ease. Succeed at that and you’ll succeed in this profession. To be in the service of making someone feel good about themselves is among the highest calling.

Let’s dive in…

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February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 57

spa | waxing etiquette for all

Getting in the Room


First things first. When I invite the client into the waxing room, I go over what to expect if it’s their first time waxing, how it’ll be performed and any position that may seem uncomfortable. Then I address their questions and concerns.

It’s time to demystify the male Brazilian. Male waxing clients are a rapidly growing segment in the industry and can be extremely loyal.

Undressing Let them know they need to undress from the waist down, instruct them where to hang or put their clothing, and tell them to lie down on their back.

I place a hand-sized towel (nicely rolled up on the table) that they’ll use as their drape. In some states draping is not required but I feel that it’s a professional must and almost a security blanket for the clients, and I’ve never found a client who didn’t use it. I also always leave the room to allow the client to undress and get up on the table.

I always make sure to be up to speed on things to talk about with my male clientele such as sports, local or national news. This is highly effective to keep the conversation going. Be upfront. Let your client know what to expect. This service is best performed with active help from the client, and by that I mean that they will be assisting with bracing and stretching to pull the skin taut.

Let the client know that they’ll be assisting. Don’t be afraid to place their hands where you need them and give them instructions.

Explain that anatomy can and sometimes does “pop up.” Keep the conversation going, have your stand-up routine mapped out and it’ll become second nature before too long.

Women This is going to be your largest segment.

Women on their Cycle Think about it. Women are on their cycle about 15 percent of the time. Are you willing to give up 15 percent of your largest segment of Brazilian waxing? Of course not! Explain that they might be a little more sensitive, and if they use a tampon you’re both good to go. This is why we wear gloves, never double dip and have high sanitary standards when performing waxing services.

Pregnant Women Hormones and edema come into play here so your client is going to be more sensitive. Ease into waxing, and don’t go as fast as you normally would. Positioning is extremely important, so you may have to alter your regular waxing poses.

Page 58 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

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spa | waxing etiquette for all

If you don’t have a table that adjusts up to a semi-sitting position you can use two or three pillows to create the same effect and keep her more comfortable.

Another position for a pregnant woman who cannot pull her knees into her chest is to roll onto her side.

to stay with them a few moments to allow their blood pressure to stabilize and make sure they are poised to get off the table themselves.

Teens It’s not uncommon for teenagers to start off with brow and leg waxing at age 12 and transition to bikini and Brazilian waxing from 15 and up. It’s advisable to have parental consent in the form of a signature and have them present for the first service.

Mature Women I place a pillow between her knees and have her take her hand to pull on their fanny cheek so that I can easily apply the wax. It’s also a good insurance policy at the end of the service to assist pregnant clients into a sitting position. I like

Your mature clients might be seasonal, but if handled correctly they can become year round hair removal clients. More mature clients may not be as flexible and it might be harder for them to get up onto the wax table. I have a small stepping stool close by and let them know that it’s available to use.

Here, positions may need to be modified as well. If the client is coming for a bikini wax, I have them put their legs into a “flamingo” position (one leg bent at the knee into an angle, the other straight out). Help them feel entitled to feeling sexy all the time and convert them to a full Brazilian. They may usually visit France but if you can talk them into visiting Brazil, they will likely want to stay.

Physically Challenged People You may want to spend some extra time on the consultation with physically challenged or health challenged individuals to gather all the necessary information, especially with contraindications. These clients give us the unique ability to put our caring nature as estheticians to the test. Be creative to get waxing services done while making it seem effortless and commonplace.

Page 60 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

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+ Peptides Argireline® – Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Matrixyl® – Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 Syn®-Coll – Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Regu®-age – Soy Peptides, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract Eyeliss™ – Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Rigin™ – Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Aldenine® - Tripeptide-1 Snap-8™ – Acetyl Octapeptide-3 Syn-Ake® – Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate Nutripeptides® – Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Matrixyl® synthe’6™ - Palmitoyl Cyclodextrin-38 Eyeseryl® – Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Stem Cells & Peptides Skin Care Technology Here to Stay Plant & Fruit stem cells have represented a major breakthrough in skin care, launching the beginning of a new system of treating the skin. With their ability to strengthen, protect, and replenish human skin cells, skin care has never had more potential to improve skin health and the appearance of aging skin. As Stem Cell Technology has gained popularity, Peptides have quietly remained a fixture in age-corrective skin care products. Their ability to stimulate different functions in the skin such as stimulating Collagen production, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, muscle cell contraction, and developing the dermal layer of the skin is unmatched. With both technologies working synergistically, we’ve been committed to using a wide range and high concentrations of both to formulate some of the finest, result-driven skin care available.

LUCR È C E P HY S IC IA N S ’ A E S T HE TIC RE S E ARCH | 8 0 0 .6 2 6 .7 5 4 6 • cre ce .co m February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card • Page 61

spa | waxing etiquette for all

Etiquette for Beauty Professionals Above all, trust equals loyalty. Building relationships is paramount. While it’s great to troubleshoot in our private Facebook forums, remember they exist to make us better and lift one another up as estheticians, not dehumanize the clients that make our livelihood possible. I never speak of, or divulge any personal information clients share with me in these services. I also never gossip about a client’s hygiene, good or bad. We all have the same issues and the same bodily functions. What you see and hear in the waxing room, stays in the waxing room, because we all deserve trust and loyalty.

REMEMBER! • Explain what you’re about to do and answer questions • Instruct clients where to leave or hang their clothing

Positions for Most Situations Butterfly: Both legs bent at the knees and laid flat against the table out to the sides. Flamingo: One leg bent at the knee into an angle and the other leg straight out. Happy husband (or happy baby): Knees pulled to the chest and relaxed to the sides.

• Roll a hand-size towel and leave it on the table as draping • Keep a small stepping stool by the table • Leave the room to allow your client to undress • Keep the conversation going • Always wear gloves • Never double dip

Melissa Black is the owner of Bombshell Salons & Candy Coat Beauty, based out of Richmond, Va. She is a master esthetician, and has been in the industry for more than two decades. An entrepreneur, Black has built brands and developed techniques with a proven track record for success in the world of waxing.


ACNE GUIDE The latest science, treatments and products to win the acne battle.

Page 62 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015





REGISTRATION all inclusive

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Business Conference Marketing Conference Retail Conference Wellness Conference Medical Spa Conference Image Conference 50+ Product Focused Classes 300+ Exhibitors


SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER BY FEBRUARY 6 2 Day admission is $90 after FEBRUARY 6 1 Day admission is $55 after FEBRUARY 6




1.800.471.0229 / 1.305.443.2322


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PRE-CONGRESS SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 28 NCEA Certified Prep Class Room D 236 $125.00 NCEA members (Includes 2-DAY ADMISSION to the congress) $149.00 non-members (Includes 2-DAY ADMISSION to the congress) Membership status must be current on day of event No changing classrooms once programs have started Includes: - Complimentary NCEA Certified Records Verification ($175.00 value) - 2-day all inclusive admission to The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa - Certificate of Attendance from The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa


MONDAY, march 2 10:30 AM WELCOME CEREMONY + THE POWER OF CHOICES (MOTIVATIONAL LECTURE) by Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner 11:00 AM HOW TO GET RID OF FINE LINES ON THE FOREHEAD (DEMO) by Boldijarre Koronczay 11:40 AM RETRAIN YOUR CLIENT’S SKIN: BREAK THE ROUTINE (lecture) by Christiane Waldron 12:10 PM “MUY MACHO” MANSCAPING MADE SIMPLE (DEMO) by Melissa Black 12:50 PM BRANDING YOU (LECTURE) by Fabienne Lindholm




ROOM C 227

Win a Client for Life in Just Minutes! by Lauren Gartland

2:00 PM

Double your Revenues in Two Easy Steps! by Jill Ruone

3:30 PM


ROOM D 239

Smart Navigation in the World of Social Media by Louis Silberman

2:00 PM

Savvy Spa Marketing with YouTube by Louis Silberman


3:30 PM ROOM D 234

Introducing/Understanding Organic & Holistic Services by Anne C. Willis LE, CME

2:00 PM

Skin Principles for the Oncology Patient by Anne C. Willis LE, CME

3:30 PM


How to with C




How to





MONDAY, march 2





How to Become a Retail Super Star Now! Four Steps to Explode Retail Sales and Profit with Confidence and Integrity by Lauren Gartland Effective Retail, Service & Pre-Booking Promotions that Instantly Explode Revenue! by Jill Ruone




Expanding your Salon/Spa into a Medical Setting by Alex R. Thiersch




ROOM C 227

How to Partner with a Medical Professional by Alex R. Thiersch


2:00 PM 3:30 PM

ROOM D 235

2:00 PM 3:30 PM ROOM D 234

Design a Signature Wellness Concept by Holli Beckwith

2:00 PM

Creating Nutritional Programs that Integrate Spa and Community by Holli Beckwith

3:30 PM


ROOM D 239

Eyebrow Extensions by Ellie Malmin

2:00 PM

Makeup for Ageless Skin by Ami Shvartzman

3:30 PM




2:00 - 3:15 PM

Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc. • Room C 220

Instant Non-Surgical Face and Neck Lift with Age Reversing Organic Bio-Actives and Micro-Needling by Victoria Tabak

Aerolase • Room C 221

Learn and Experience how New 650-Microsecond Laser Technology Advances Medical and Esthetic Applications for the Med Spa! by Pam Bennett

Skin for Life • Room C 222

Skin for Life’s Skin Fitness Program: Microcurrent + Oxygen Infusion by Freda Mills

Éminence Organic Skin Care • Room C 224

Experience the Power of Hungarian Massage and Stimulating Actives by Boldijarre Koronczay


Radio Frequency, “THE NATURAL FACE-LIFT”: Fact or Fiction? by Dr. Stephanie King

Martinni Beauty, Inc. • Room C 226

Microdermabrasion: Past, Present and Future by Lana Yu

LightStim • Room C 228

LED Light Therapy: Results and Rewards by Jennifer Owen

Depilève • Room D 229

Brows to Brazilians with the Latest Waxing Techniques by Deanna Henderson

Osmosis Skincare • Room D 230

Permanent Age Reversal Sets You Apart From the Rest by Ben Johnson, M.D.

SAIAN Natural Clinical Skincare • Room D 231

Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift, and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic and Microcurrent Technology and Natural Clinical Peptide Products by Dasha Saian

Repêchage • Room D 232

Anti-Aging Skin Solution: The World Famous Repêchage Four Layer Facial® by Natalie Otto

Image Skincare • Room D 233

Pigmentation is the New Wrinkle by Jacquelyn Hill

Dr. Jeff Skin Care / Beauty Attica, Inc. • Room D 235 Anti-Aging Treatment with Stem Cells by Moises Estrada

Circadia by Dr. Pugliese • Room D 236 A Better Way to Vitamin A by Michael Q. Pugliese

Bio Jouvance, Inc. • Room D 237

Microneedle Therapy with Bio Matrix Dermal Filler: Anti-Aging Alternative To Restylane® (The presentation is in English and Spanish) by Sonia Boghosian

DermaSwiss Skincare • Room D 238

Chemical Peels, Not Just a Seasonal Treatment by DermaSwiss Training & Education Specialists

HydraFacial MD® - Edge Systems LLC • Room D 241

HydraFacial MD® Hands-On Basic Certification (Part 1) by Salena Deihl

SUNDAY, march 1

3:45 - 5:00 PM

Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc. • Room c 220

True Breakthrough in Cellulite Treatment: No Equipment or Shower Needed by Victoria Tabak

Jaco Spa and Cirépil • Room C 225

Intimate Waxing: Painful Waxing is a Thing of the Past with Cirépil by Perron Rigot Paris by Tina Sharp

Martinni Beauty, Inc. • Room C 226

Fast $$$ Comes from Fixing All Esthetic Skin Imperfections Permanently by Lana Yu


OPM-Organic Permanent Makeup • Room C 228

Organic Permanent Makeup... What’s the Buzz About? by Lorine Mikheail

Anesi • Room D 229

Anesi Parafango Waterless Body Treatments by Ruth Maldonado

Miguett - Cosmetica Profesional • Room D 230

New Active Ingredients that Showcase the Effect of Fillings and Protection Against Damage to Your DNA by Esperanza Vaca

Image Skincare • Room D 233 Power Peels by Jacquelyn Hill

Xtetic World • Room D 238

Repair and Reverse the Signs of Photo-damage by Dawn Clifford

HydraFacial MD® - Edge Systems LLC • Room D 241

HydraFacial MD® Hands-On Basic Certification (Part 2) by Salena Deihl

MONDAY, march 2

2:00 - 3:15 PM

Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc. • Room C 220

Reverse the Effect of Menopause on the Skin 100 Percent Naturally with Plant Derived Phyto-Hormones by Victoria Tabak

Éminence Organic Skin Care • Room C 224

Discover Immediate Anti-Aging Results with Organic Active Ingredients by Boldijarre Koronczay

Jaco Spa and Cirépil • Room C 225

Intimate Waxing: Painful Waxing is a Thing of the Past with Cirépil by Perron Rigot Paris by Tina Sharp

Nova Skin Peels and Dermclar USA • Room C 226

The Latest Technology In Bioengineered Hyaluronic Acid For Face, Décolleté & Hands, And Integral Esthetic Treatment For Buttocks by Dr. Catalina Ucros Vega

Spaware Software • Room C 228

Real Business Growth Using Social Media and No Effort Automated Marketing, Plus the Easy Five-Step Selling Process by Blake Rector

Depilève • Room D 229

Brows to Brazilians with the Latest Waxing Techniques by Shannon Wiseman

Maxcara • Room D 230

Maxcara Semi-Permanent Lash Treatment by Deanna Henderson

SAIAN Natural Clinical Skincare • Room D 231

Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift, and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic and Microcurrent Technology and Natural Clinical Peptide Products by Dasha Saian

Repêchage • Room D 232

Peel and Reveal! Repêchage Introduces BIOLIGHT® by Natalie Otto

Image Skincare • Room D 233

Ingredient Rock Stars by Jacquelyn Hill

Circadia by Dr. Pugliese • Room ­D 236

A New Look at Inflammation and Aging by Michael Q. Pugliese

Bio Jouvance, Inc. • Room D 237

All You Need to Know About Radio Frequency And Microcurrent: The Latest in Skin Care Technology for Anti-Aging (The presentation is in English and Spanish) by Sonia Boghosian

MONDAY, march 2

3:45 - 5:00 PM

Martinni Beauty • Room ­C 226

How to Achieve the Perfect Eyelash Extensions by Lana Yu

Image Skincare • Room D 233

Pigmentation is the New Wrinkle by Jacquelyn Hill

EXHIBITOR LIST 21 Drops 7E Myolift Act 5 Cosmetics Aerolase AIA - Aesthetics International Association Allegra M. France Amen American Biotech Labs Anesi AnteAGE by Cellese Athena Beauty, Inc. Athena Cosmetics Audrey Morris Skin Care + Cosmetics International Avazzia AW Advanced Skin Care Training B & S Beauty Supply Balanced Guru Beaming White Teeth Whitening Beaute Tsuru DBA K&K Enterprise Beauty Beauty Int’l, Inc. Beauty Image Bella Cosmetic Manufacturer LLC Bella Schneider Beauty Bellaire Beasquared Beauty Attica, Inc. BG Beauté, Inc. (misencil) Bio France Lab Bio Jouvance, Inc. BioFreeze Biotone Blason International Body Slimming Experts BonVital Bronze Biologic Cailyn Cosmetics Candy Coat Beauty Carefree Natural Casmara Cosmetics S.A. Cass Luxury Shapewear Cellese Centre for Beauty Christina USA Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Cirepil ClearFX Skin Crown Brush CryoConcepts LA Cuccio Cynosure D’Shalom Scientific Cosmetics Dectro International Depileve Dermapenworld DermaQuip Dermascope Magazine


DermaSwiss Dermclar USA Doctor’s Toy Store, Inc. DPC Int’l, Inc. Dr. Jeff Skin Care Elixir of Life Éminence Organic Skin Care Endo-Systems, LLC Enlace Hispano Estetica, Spa y Belleza Equipro USA, Inc. Esthetics Global étre belle European Beauty Inc. Evalash Silk Eyelash Extensions Exel Aesthetic Biotechnology First Alternatives, LLC Flamingo Beauty Supply Gehwol Gold Cosmetics & Skin Care Graham GrandeLash MD (h2t) Spa & Aesthetics Hale Cosmeceuticals Health & Beauty Connection LLC HydraFacial MD® - Edge Systems LLC Image Derm, Inc. Image Skincare Jaco Spa Jenetiqa Pro Skin Care Jindilli Skincare JMT Group Kelly Lots Productions, LLC Kev.C Professional Skin Care Kollagen X Kosmet, Inc. KP Beauty Products L’Alchimiste LLC La Seta Wax Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label cosmetics Lash Bomb Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Magazine LightStim Lôngmi Lashes By Daniel M.A. Dermaceuticals MAD Skincare Magazine Service Outlet Manufacturing Beauty Martinni Beauty, Inc. Maxcara MD Dermis Spa Equipment Mei-Cha Beauty International, CA Merrylaz Mesogold Beauty Supply Mesopen Miguett - Cosmetica Profesional Mindful Minerals Misencil

Monique Mathieu LLC Morphe Brushes Nacach Wax Nature Pure Labs SW. Inc. New Beginnings Nova Skin Peels Nutra Luxe MD OPI OPM - Organic Permanent Makeup Osmosis Skin Care Otto Trading, Inc. Periódico Esstetica Latina Permanent makeup Int. Pharmagel PhotoMedex Postquam USA ProCell Therapies Procter And Gamble Healthcare Radiancy Rapidlash Rebonson Refectocil Remy Laure Repeat Rewards Repêchage Revitalash Rezenerate SAIAN Natural Clinical Skincare Salonwear Satin Smooth Select Marketing and Distribution Silhouet-Tone Skin Accents, Inc. Skin Fitness Therapy Skin for Life Slim Spa The Body Specialists Society for Clinical and Medical Hair Removal, Inc. Sotto’s International South Sea Skin Care Spa & Aesthetics Spa Equipment Direct Spa Manufacturer Direct Spaware Software Square StarFlower Essentials Organic Skincare Supramedical LLC. Syneron - Candela TEI Spa The Esthetics Association Florida Therapmedic LLC Tizo by Fallene VitaJuwel Vitality FX Detoxification Station Volcanic Origins Wilma Schumann Skin Care Products Xtetic World


AGELESS BEAUTY Nothing says youthful beauty like dramatic lashes and bold brows. Get the look at 877.909.5274

RevitaLash Advanced not available in California. ©2014 Athena Cosmetics, Inc. ®

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #346 on reader service card • Page 69

FORM FITTING Shape and Slim presents its Tone Activ Tank, now available in nude. The toning top, already in black and white, is created in a unique wave knit to perform a rolling massage on the skin, says the company. The stretchy fabric smoothes bulges on the waist, tummy, and bust with its specific anti-orange peel solution.


wound healing activation Meditime Advanced Medical Aesthetics’ Juliet QueenSkin Pro is a micro-needling therapy system that uses a multi-needle to maximize the cell penetration of active ingredients, says the company. The system improves skin tone and increases skin tightness and elasticity.




lasting relief

Visit for more news

MedSpa Distributors are bringing back the ThermalBalls, convenient and easy pain relievers. Made with a unique gel core designed to retain heat and cold for lasting relief, they can be heated or cooled for aid in a multitude of ailments and are also beneficial in the treatment room for deep tissue massage and pressure, says the company.


thirst quenching Guinot introduced its Moisturizing Shower Cream, a time-saving moisturizing solution to prevent rough patches, lines, cracks and cuts, says the company. Offer your clients the opportunity to cleanse and moisturize simultaneously.


Page 70 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015


February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 71


Be on top of your game with the perfect fusion of technology and touch…


Fusing Touch with Technology Is It Time To Update Your Facial “Tool Kit?”

By Caroline Canetti

As we kick off the New Year, it’s a great time to take a good, hard look at your facial department’s “tool kit” and see if adding some new pieces of equipment just might land you further in the black. Always check with your state licensing board to determine your scope of practice and whether the procedures you want to perform are within it, as rules vary from state to state. There are some treatments estheticians can do only if working with a dermatologist or doctor, while others allow for licensed estheticians to fly solo. Read on as several skin care professionals walk us through this guide to fusing touch with technology, to help you up your esthetics game.

Page 72 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

CO2 Fractional Lasers While there are various lasers on the market, one of the most popular at Skin Deep Laser Medspa in Pasadena, Calif., is a CO2 fractional laser that helps reduce wrinkles and fine lines while improving skin tone and texture.

Who It’s For: “This laser procedure is best for clients who have overall anti-aging concerns, as well as those with thicker skin, noticeable fine lines and wrinkles, scarring, and pigmentation or discoloration issues. The laser is not recommended for Fitzpatrick skin types 4-6,” she says. HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: “Laser resurfacing can be integrated into a spa setting to help complement other anti-aging treatments to give the ultimate ‘wow’ effect for the patient. The laser provides the technician the ability to treat the lower dermal layers of the skin with minimal downtime (approximately four to seven days). However, I would advise for an MD or Registered Nurse to treat the patient depending on State Board requirements,” she says. Skin Deep’s singletreatment prices are: $1,000 (hands), $2,500 (face), $3,000 (face and neck), and $3,500 (face, neck and chest).

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 73


How It Works: “This laser treatment is performed in a single treatment with minimal patient downtime. It works by sending a high-energy beam of laser light to smooth out lines, remove brown spots, and stimulate the formation of new underlying collagen. During the fractional laser treatment, small ‘bridges’ of untouched skin are left, making the healing process quicker. Most people see improvement up to six months after the laser treatment,” says Shawna Grant, spa consultant at Skin Deep Laser.



Galvanic might be an old-school method, but most of our skin care experts say it’s no thing of the past and is still a viable go-to option to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, tighten the skin, and improve oxygenation and circulation. Heather Nicole, owner of Heather Nicole Advanced Skincare in Beverly Hills, Calif., still uses galvanic, but combines the technology with one of her newer microcurrent devices. “It’s the Rolls-Royce of microcurrent machines,” she says. How It Works: “The handheld device, about the size of an electric razor, pushes a low voltage DC current into the skin via a conductive treatment gel that is applied beforehand. Treatments are painless and usually take about 7-10 minutes,” she says. Who It’s For: “You can use it for pimples after extractions. It reduces inflammation and speeds up the healing process. It’s good for skin that might be dull and lifeless. It’s been in use for over 50 years in facial services,” she says. HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: “During a facial procedure, a negative charge is used to deeply cleanse and purify the skin. This first part of the treatment is called desincrustation [i.e., desincrustation breaks down blockages in the skin, such as blackheads or clogged pores]. A negative charge in the instrument will repel a negatively charged cleansing gel and push it deep into the skin. Toxins and impurities are neutralized,” says Nicole, who charges $50 for a stand-alone treatment or $450 for a package of 10.

IPL IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), also known as photofacials, is a light therapy used to improve photo-damaged skin. How It Works: “IPL works by sending a broad spectrum of light through a small clear hand piece into the skin. The light penetrates melanin or lesions and damages them, and the body’s natural way of healing or processing helps to remove the damaged tissue resulting in healthy skin. Results are best achieved when they are spaced two to four weeks apart and in a series of five to six treatments,” says Grant. Who It’s For: “ Photofacials are best used on patients who have sun damaged, rosacea, and pigmentation issues. IPL is not recommended for darker skin tones, Fitzpatricks 4-6. It helps to remove age spots, sun damage, and pigmentation. It also helps to reduce redness and is extremely beneficial in improving rosacea and broken blood vessels or capillaries,” she says. How Spas Can Integrate It: “Spas can integrate IPL into their practice to enhance facial treatments. At Skin Deep Laser Medspa, we have seen the best results with alternating gentle chemical peels and microdermabrasion between IPL intervals. The results are amazing because you are able to treat the surface and the dermal layers, for optimal skin health,” she says. Skin Deep’s Photofacials/Blue Light range from $360-$440 for a single treatment or are sold in packages of five ranging from $640-$2,400. When combined with a peel, the cost is $135.

Always check with your state licensing board to determine your scope of practice and whether the procedures you want to perform are within it, as rules vary from state to state.

LED Therapy LED therapy, which stands for Light Emitting Diodes, is often referred to as LED light therapy, LED red light, or LED blue light. This is a pain-free treatment that plumps up skin by boosting collagen production and treats mild to moderate acne. How It Works: “LED therapy utilizes safe, holistic UV-free sunlight to energize and restore healthy skin and connective tissue,” says Kim Knapp, owner of Skin Apeel Day Spa in Boca Raton, Fla. Who It’s For: “Many conditions can be alleviated or resolved, based on the specific color wavelength chosen. The combination of red, amber, and infrared LED increases collagen production, a perfect solution for ageless rejuvenation facial therapies. Blue LED light is a phenomenal treatment for acne as it calmly destroys bacteria, which causes this skin infection. A trio of red, infrared and deep infrared LED provide on-the-spot anti-inflammatory results, making it effective for pain and injury recovery,” she says.

Page 74 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

capsule. Technology choices include microcurrent, red LED, blue LED, and rapid exfoliation. Each technology is further enhanced by magnets and smart ingredient capsules. The capsules communicate with the technology heads to fortify the skin with nutrition simultaneous to receiving muscle re-education, fibroblast stimulation, anti-inflammatory/ anti-bacterial and/or refining benefits,” explains Knapp. Who It’s For: “We love it because there’s a magnetic combo fit for every skin type and condition, and amazing results are achieved within 15 minutes. Our Wish Magnetic Infusion Facial ($235) that uses two or more elements is a client favorite,” she says.

Magnetic Infusion Magnetic infusion is a smart device combining positive and negative magnets to propel target serums deep into the skin and bring toxins and impurities to the surface. How It Works: “The uniqueness of this technology is the customized combination of modality and ingredient

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


Who It’s For: “It’s for somebody who is sagging or has jowls and needs elasticity or a lift. It can be considered as an alternative to a face-lift surgery or a chance to delay it. It’s also good for someone who just looked fatigued. A lot of the clients are over 40, and certainly almost anyone over 50 would benefit from this,” she says. How Spas Can Integrate It: “A very recent trend with the machine is to add the lifting service to the forehead as part of eyebrow shaping services. Obviously, it needs to be done regularly but it makes a difference (much like Botox does) in lifting and arching the brows further. It’s a great stand-alone lunchtime treatment, because it can be done in 30 minutes. It’s great with hydrating facials, anti-aging facials, and really any kind of facial. I usually do it in the beginning of a facial because it’s a little more active and afterwards the client can rest a little bit more,” she says. Vanessa Manel spa charges $65, but when Manel worked in Santa Monica, the price was $85 for a stand-alone. This is often sold in packages of eight.

Microcurrent is a machine that tones the muscles by stimulating them with a current. “They are a pretty classic machine in skin care that has become ‘in vogue’ again after certain companies popularized them a few years ago with at-home machines,” says Vanessa Manel, owner of Vanessa Manel in Eagle Rock, Calif. “It is pretty much Pilates for your face,” adds Rosette Duarte, lead esthetician for skin care services at Vanessa Manel. How It Works: “The machines lift the look of the face by toning and strengthening the muscles of the face. The current also increases production of ATP, which benefits the skin immensely on a cellular level. To add to all that, • Page 75


How Spas Can Integrate It: “LED works well both as à la carte or integrated within any facial protocol. It’s always best to promote a weekly or biweekly series to obtain desired results. Typically, a client’s skin is cleansed and exfoliated prior to administering light therapy. LED penetrates well on clean, product-free skin. A target serum of choice can immediately follow because the skin is more receptive to product absorption post LED treatment. The usual manufacturer time recommendation is 20-minute sessions for full face or localized body area,” she says. Knapp charges $70-$85 à la carte depending on the area.

How Spas Can Integrate It: “All technologies will deliver results whether it is an à la carte 30-minute in spa ($75 per capsule/technology), at-home treatment, and/or incorporated into facials and body massages. We recommend more frequent shorter sessions to allow us to get ahead of the curve with skin conditions and to manage pain,” she says.

microcurrent pushes topical products deeper into the skin, generally making them more effective,” says Manel.


Microdermabrasion There are two main types of microdermabrasion services used today. Manel explains, “One is with crystals (the two types of crystals used are typically aluminium oxide and sodium bicarbonate) blasted across the skin to exfoliate and the other uses a diamond tip, which has a sandpaper-like texture to it. The wand tip is simply pressed and dragged across the planes of the skin to exfoliate while the vacuum stimulates circulation and keeps the skin pulled flush to the diamond edge.” Wet microdermabrasion follows the same process of exfoliation but also uses special serums that are pushed into the deeper layers of the skin as the process goes on. HOW IT WORKS: “The classic version relies on a wand with a plastic casing that holds the crystals and the crystals come out the opening and blast the skin—like sandblasting. It has a vacuum suction that helps to oxygenate the skin and improve circulation,” explains Manel. WHO IT’S FOR: “It’s great for someone with thicker skin, congested skin, and/or bumpy skin. It can be really nice for smokers. It makes a dull, sallow complexion look rosy. It’s great for men. Men love microdermabrasion because it really exfoliates in the beard area well, which can be really difficult with products. It can help with ingrown hairs as well. And men have thicker skin than women naturally, so they’re even more in need of a service like that,” she says. HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: “It combines great with any kind of soothing service, because afterwards your really want to soothe the skin,” says Manel, who charges $85 for a stand-alone.

Microneedling Microneedling often can be done by an esthetician only if they are working with a physician. Check with your state’s licensing board. HOW IT WORKS: “It’s usually done with a roller that has hundreds of needles in it rolled over the face in sections. Depending on the depth of needles, it treats different layers of the skin. Estheticians should really only work on the first few dead layers of skin and not on live layers of skin. You roll it across horizontally and then vertically and then diagonally to a point where you have pinpoint bleeding. It’s done in order to stimulate collagen. As long as you’re opening up the skin and you have these channels open from the wounds, you have a chance to use a treatment serum that’s really good for promoting new cell growth and/or possibly treating other conditions,” Manel says.

WHO IT’S FOR: “It is really good for fine lines. Even a series of the treatments might not be enough to improve deep wrinkles, but collagen production can be stimulated to really improve the appearance of fine lines and shallow imperfections, such as mild acne scars. It can potentially work well with clients who have acne because it oxygenates the pores, which can help kill the bacteria,” she says. HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: “It’s a great stand-alone treatment. You don’t want to combine it with anything else. It’s certainly going to be more effective if done as a series. There are not too many people that will be thrilled with just one single result,” she says. Microneedling is also priced per section, typically ranging from $100 for spot treatment on scars, to $350 for a single treatment on the face or sold in packages.

Page 76 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

Microphototherapy Microphototherapy is a patented light and heat energy (LHE) in a nonablative, non-invasive procedure that softens fine lines, increases elasticity, decreases pore size, and improves overall skin tone by stimulating the growth of new collagen. HOW IT WORKS: This method is like a lamp that shoots pulses into the skin, causing a mild thermal injury just beneath the surface of the skin that leads to the production of collagen. It also opens the pores for better product penetration. In brief, says Nicole, “it uses light, heat, and energy to stimulate the dermis.”

HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: “It is beneficial to add to a treatment to reduce pore size, and lighten pigmentation. Over time it reduces redness, and plumps up fine lines with no downtime,” says Nicole, who charges $100 for a stand-alone treatment—clients can buy seven and get one free.

Oxygen Infusion Oxygen is an effective way to help the skin absorb the actives in your treatment quicker and deeper to instantly give the skin a healthier, younger, and more hydrated appearance. HOW IT WORKS: A stream of oxygen is sprayed onto the face via a handheld device. The serum containing vitamins and nutrients are atomized and pushed into the skin. It helps soften fine lines and wrinkles, stimulate the skin at the cellular level, increase circulation, hydrate, increase skin elasticity and collagen production, and more.

HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: It works best as its own facial as opposed to an add-on to other offerings. The Pretty Face Place in South Windsor, Conn., for instance, charges $95 for an Oxygen Infusion Facial or $665 for seven sessions. Janis Chakler Skin Care in New York City charges $200 for 75 minutes (which includes facial extractions, enzyme, and massage) or offers a 30-minute oxygen boost for $140.

Radiofrequency Radiofrequency is a heat-omitting current that is used to tighten skin and affect the deeper dermis and subcutaneous layers, causing tightening and improvements to the underlying tissue structure. HOW IT WORKS: “Radiofrequency delivers a safe wavelength of electricity through the dermis, heating up the subcutaneous tissue which causes immediate tightening of the skin by plumping the collagen. It also causes the brain to send messages to repair the collagen. This treatment can be done in a series for maximum results. There are three types of radiofrequency: mono-polar also known as unipolar, bi-polar, and tri-polar. Unipolar uses one electrode, bi-polar uses two electrodes and creates the energy between them, and tri-polar simultaneously combines the effects of mono and bi-polar radiofrequency in a single treatment,” says Julie Puccio, owner of Bella Nova Day Spa and Salon in Houston, Texas. WHO IT’S FOR: “It’s best suited to patients with mild-to-moderate sagging of facial tissues, usually those in their mid-30s to 50s. It is commonly used to treat the forehead (lift brows and

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #303 on reader service card February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 77


WHO IT’S FOR: This is a safe and effective procedure for all skin types and is especially popular with clients who want to look 10 years younger.

WHO IT’S FOR: Many types of skin conditions can benefit from an oxygen facial, including aging skin, dehydrated, and sensitive skin, hyperpigmentation and clients with rosacea or acne.


tightens forehead skin), under the eyes (thickens skin and tightens and lifts the upper cheek skin), cheeks (lifts slightly and diminishes enlarged pores), midface, jaw line (diminishes sagging along the jaw line), and the neck (tightens skin and diminishes wrinkling of the neck),” says Nicole. HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: “It can be used as an add-on for more advanced treatments targeting specific areas anywhere in the body,” says Nicole. Adds Puccio, “radiofrequency can be used in conjunction with a facial or body treatment or as a stand-alone treatment. Treatment time is 30 to 45 minutes depending on the size of the service.” Puccio prices it by the area, ranging from $65-$325. It’s sold in a series of six treatments with a buy five, get one free deal. Nicole charges $75 per area for a stand-alone treatment, and a series of six for $675.

Ultrasonic Ultrasonic, also known as Skin Sonic, is another handheld device with a crystal in the sound head that uses low-frequency sound waves for safe mechanical exfoliation, cleansing, and desincrustation. HOW IT WORKS: “Ultrasonic or skin scrubbers is different than Ultrasound. Skin scrubbers use vibration technology to blast out pores. The paddle can be used to penetrate product deeper into the skin and it promotes collagen building,” says Puccio.

Hand-held units are a great alternative if space is an issue,” she says. Bella Nova Day Spa and Salon’s Ultrasonic price is a $41 add-on to their Signature Facial.

Ultrasound Ultrasound helps lift the skin tissue and build collagen from the brow and forehead to the décolleté. HOW IT WORKS: “Ultrasound energy is focused to the deepest layers of the skin and into the muscle without disrupting the outermost layers of the skin. This energy helps to stimulate new collagen, along with breaking down weak collagen. Practitioners are able to see the layers they are treating to focus it in the most beneficial areas, and within 2-3 months new collagen is re-built resulting in lifting and tightening,” explains Grant.

WHO IT’S FOR: “Ultrasonic can be used for all skin types. It’s especially great for congested or severe acne and rosacea as it exfoliates without irritation. Great for plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of wrinkles,” she says.

WHO IT’S FOR: “Ultrasound can be used to treat all skin types (Fitzpatrick 1-6) and is popular with baby boomers, but also used for preventative purposes for men and women in their late 20s and upward,” she says.

HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: “Ultrasonic is a great add-on service and then rebooked as a facial with the Ultrasonic. It’s not a stand-alone service.

HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: “Spas can integrate the use of ultrasound quite easily to enhance their facial and body treatments. Clients are

looking for an alternative to surgery, something with little to no downtime,” she says. Skin Deep Laser Medspa charges $3,250 for a full face and neck and various pricing for other sections.

Vacuum Suction HOW IT WORKS: The vacuum suction machine, considered one of the hallmarks for professional skin care, features a suction hose and glass ventouse attachments in various shapes and sizes. After applying a light coating of cleanser or a desincrustation solution to the face, you move the device in small strokes across the face and décolleté to help loosen congested skin. WHO IT’S FOR: Vacuum suction works great on skin that is congested, sluggish, puffy, or has a dull appearance, and is an electrical method of manual lymphatic drainage. HOW SPAS CAN INTEGRATE IT: It’s a wonderful tool to add to any facial as it helps to pre-soften and prepare the skin prior to manual extractions. Sunflower Day Spa in Nutley, N. J., charges $80 for a 45-minute stand-alone Vacuum Facial, $120 with a 60-minute facial, a series of five for $360, and a series of 10 for $640. n

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Start off your search for the ideal piece of equipment right here:

Athena Beauty

Edge For Life

Bio Jouvance Paris

Microdermabrasion and skin scrubber




LILA Enterprise

Microneedling Galvanic LED light therapy Microdermabrasion Ultrasound Radiofrequency Microcurrent


Sonic Medical Systems


DermapenWorld LLC



LED light therapy

Galvanic Vacuum suction





Laser IPL Radiofrequency Microdermabrasion Ultrasound

Satin Smooth





Universal Companies

LED light therapy


Altair Instruments



LED light therapy Microcurrent Microdermabrasion Ultrasonic Oxygen infusion

ImageMicroDerm Inc.

Repêchage Galvanic

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Nanocurrent Microdermabrasion IPL

Equipmed Microneedling Laser LED light therapy CO2 fractional laser

Bellaire Industry LLC Microneedling

Meditime Advanced Medical Aesthetics Microneedling Laser LED light therapy

EndyMed Laser Microneedling • Page 79




Body Works

by Caroline Canetti

High-Tech Methods to Build Your Business

Choosing one piece of technology over the other depends on the needs of your clients. Some of these methods work well on cellulite or fat reduction, some work for the entire body for contouring, and others are only for localized problem areas or inch loss.

ULTRASOUND TECHNOLOGY What it’s for: One of the most popular treatments for body contouring and fat removal, is the use of ultrasound technology, which “kills the fat dead,” says Dae Flesher, owner of The Cellulite Clinic in Studio City, Calif. Dae explains that sound waves kill the fat without damaging tissues. She uses the wand-device for targeted use on clients who have trouble areas such as love handles, mid-section fat, or underarm flab. How it works: The dead fat remains in the body for a few days until it is metabolized through the liver and comes out through the bowels. The Cellulite Clinic offers their 30-minute UltraSound Fat Blast in series of five for $550, or 10 for $800.

INFRARED LIGHT THERAPY What it’s for: It’s another popular option used as body wraps for inch loss, weight management, detoxification, improve the immune system and blood

circulation, cellulite reduction, and even pain management. The wraps can burn 600 to 2,500 calories depending on the client’s diet and exercise habits. How it works: “Infrared radiant energy directly penetrates the body’s tissues up to a depth of two inches. These treatments can be added before or after a massage to increase blood circulation and decrease pain,” says Heather Nicole, owner of Heather Nicole Advanced Skincare in Beverly Hills, Calif., which charges $40 for a 45 minute session.

RADIOFREQUENCY What it’s for: It’s a heat-omitting current that’s used to tighten skin.

disorders. Athletes also use this therapy to decrease recovery time after sports related injuries. How it works: The whole body treatment is conducted in a cryogenic chamber or sauna for approximately one to three minutes. The surface level of the skin temperature is lowered to about 50 degrees to stimulate receptors. Anita Brzezkinski, owner of Organelle Spa in Las Vegas, Nev., adds that it also has the best effect on localized fat and is often used as a spot treatment for clients who are fit and healthy, but have one area of fat that’s hard to remove with diet and exercise. Organelle Spa charges $399 for a spot treatment.

PRESSOTHERAPY How it works: “It’s a medical laser treatment. This heats up the dermis to produce an instant tightening. New technology uses radiofrequency to drive heat deeper into the dermis without the extra pain,” says Julie Puccio, owner of Bella Nova Day Spa and Salon in Houston, Texas. The price per section is $65-$325, depending on the area, or clients can buy five and get one free. It works well as an add-on for more advanced treatments.

CRYOTHERAPY What it’s for: “Cryo” comes from the Greek word for “cold.” The treatment uses a cooling technology to relieve pain, improve overall health, and help with insomnia and inflammatory

What it’s for: Unlike the others, this treatment often targets clients who are obese with cellulite problems in the legs due to circulatory problems. It’s a great alternative to surgical liposuction. How it works: The client wears compression arm sleeves and pneumatic pants that are connected to a machine, which inflates the arms and legs to increase blood flow, treat varicose veins, aid with lymphatic drainage, and detoxify the body. White Rose Spa in Irvine, Calif., offers a 30-minute treatment for $45, 10 sessions for $400, or combination package deals, including a 75-minute package of pressotherapy with contour drainage to treat water retention for $100. n

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the Right Equipment

for Your Spa


by Jessica Davies When purchasing new equipment for your spa business, there are a number of factors to consider before making a final decision. Whether you’re building a spa from the ground up or maintaining an existing business, equipment purchases should be considered as investments in your business, your staff, and your customers’ happiness. The ultimate goal is to spend wisely and reap excellent returns.

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Every business is different:

Consider your practice, your philosophy, and your demographic first. Your vision may be to continue improving your current offerings or it may be to add more services slowly. Whatever your business structure is now, future purchases should reflect your vision for the future and move your business closer to long-term goals.

DEMOGRAPHICS Now more than ever, people see that they have real power over the way they look and feel. The shift is definitely moving toward a well-rounded demographic overall, but looking even deeper, a spa must consider that their clients have very specific needs. For instance, urban dwellers in busy city environments are stressed to the max and short on time. Demographics

should play a huge role in your skin care offering in this instance. Are you offering multi-tasking facials that help clientele achieve the desired results in a fast “lunch-break” style session? In areas where the clientele tends to be more established, time might not be such an issue, but progressive treatments could be extremely popular.


When it comes to picking equipment and furniture for your spa, perhaps the first thing you should do is get out the measuring tape. If you don’t have a digital map of your space, create one. Purchasing without measurements is a sure way to make mistakes. Always have your measurements handy before you hit the tradeshow or showroom floor for purchasing. When planning a room, un-

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derstand first that you will need enough space to house your equipment, furniture, and supplies, while still having enough room to move comfortably.

Multi-function units As spaces are getting smaller in many areas, it might behoove you to plan for two or more treatment types in the same room. This will affect not only spatial arrangements, but also the type of treatment bed you will invest in and the accessorial furniture you will need as well. On the issue of space, Joe Mandato, owner and operator of La Bella Spa in Merritt Island, Fla., recommends multi-function units whenever possible. Mandato says that these units allow estheticians to work efficiently in tight spaces with a number of modalities right at their fingertips.

Smaller units Similar to other “tech” devices, beauty devices are shrinking to match spatial and operating priorities. With limited space, small units and multifunction units can be a lifesaver.

Always have your measurements handy before you hit the tradeshow or showroom floor for purchasing.

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

LONG TERM INVESTMENTS Clients might be asking for the latest and greatest technologies, but there are some items that should stay with your salon for five to ten years plus.

Everyday and necessity items such as treatment tables, steamers, magnifying lamps, and hot towel cabis should work for the long haul. The best rule of thumb is to invest in high quality pieces that will stand up to many uses. Here are a few things to consider when sorting out quality units from less desirable ones: • Does the manufacturer have a solid presence and reputation in the industry? You want to be certain that the company that makes your equipment will be around for the long haul.

Don’t get stuck with a company that won’t offer troubleshooting support, service, or training with your purchase. When talking service, think fast! Ask about turnaround times and loaner options. According to Trena Ross, spa director at L’Institut Sothys New York, N.Y., it’s better sometimes to pay a little bit more for equipment from a reputable manufacturer who will stand behind their product and is well established in the industry versus paying a cheaper price for a little known manufacturer with no support.

• Will I buy from a manufacturer or a distributor? In the spa industry there are many distributors to choose from, but remember that if you’re purchasing directly from a manufacturer, you may be able to work out a lower cost. A manufacturer might also offer better service options for their equipment than a distributor would ever be able to provide.

Ideally, you should contact both manufacturers and distributors and work with the one that brings you the highest level of comfort and security with your purchase. • Page 83


• Is this equipment going to fit the needs of my staff and keep my customer happy? Your staff and your customers will use this equipment more than you ever will.

Involve your professional team in purchasing decisions by eliciting feedback and welcoming ideas or suggestions whenever possible. Consider the comfort level of both your practitioners and your clients when buying items such as treatment tables. A bed that is height adjustable with electronically controlled and heated cushions will make everyone happy! Once you’ve found the right piece of equipment to buy for your spa, don’t forget to train your staff on proper care. Maintaining equipment in good working order is the best way to save on repairs and hassles. New and existing employees alike can benefit greatly from regular instruction in this department. Remember to always follow manufacturer cleaning suggestions and maintenance protocols.

SHORT-TERM INVESTMENTS Mandato suggests following a simple rule of thumb, “We only invest in equipment if we have a follow-up plan that will allow us to pay off the unit within six months.” This is a great principle to stick to, especially if the device you are considering is rather pricey. Ross’ advice is to consider whether or not the technology of the equipment being purchased today will be obsolete in a few years. She says that for certain equipment, spa directors must ascertain how long it’ll take to recoup their initial investment based on the cost of the equipment and the net cost of the service itself.

Another factor to consider with a short-term investment is training and procedures. What type of investment, financial or time wise, will it take to train your entire staff? Training your whole staff is very important to the communication within the salon. Even front desk workers should understand the benefits of a

procedure along with important mustknows such as contraindications and after care. Other factors to consider when buying new devices are insurance, liability, and licensing. Find equipment that is UL approved and FDA certified if applicable. Also check your state regulations and all of your policies before making a big purchase. Every business decision you make as a director plays a huge role in the success of your spa. Research manufacturers carefully, pay attention to the reputation of these businesses, and be sure that new equipment will enhance your spa both energetically and financially. Involve your team when making decisions about new purchases, and never forget your customers’ needs and desires. Last but not least, use your purchasing power. Don’t be afraid to negotiate for the high quality equipment that you want. n Jessica Davies is the marketing manager at Silhouet-Tone USA. The Miamibased marketer develops ROI-focused, integrated programs that combine innovative, practical PR, branding and Internet marketing solutions designed to support business goals and keep her organization at the top of the industry. She holds a bachelor’s degree in English Literature and Professional Writing.

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Technology Enhancing Treatments at Your Spa by Alex Koo Murray

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 85

EQUIPMENT guide When it comes to spa treatments, marketing is just the same all the way around… or is it? Turns out marketing technology-enhancing treatments can be slightly different from how you handle the rest of your offerings. If relying on Facebook, Twitter and other medium, email blasts, newsletters and inspa signage, remain of the utmost importance, getting your clients onboard with technology enhancing treatments takes a bit more of a social approach, a real grasp of your clients’ wants, where earning their trust is a must.

Know your clientele “Clients looking for technology based treatments are searching for quick results. They tend to want to come in and get out in a flash,” says Christie Lavigne, director of skin care

at Oasis Day Spa in New York City, N.Y. “They book their services at lunchtime or right after work, they rarely linger in the spa.” If that might be true for many techtreatment seeking clients, others might want to combine that escape from everyday stress they get with softer services such as facials or massages with a more “aggressive finish.” Know who your clients and potential clients are. Take the demographic and your location into account. Family oriented communities might tend to have housewives available during school hours, while business districts might bring you more of an evening clientele. Go local and partner with other businesses. Len Seward, owner of ibeautiful health clinic in Hindsdale, Ill., offers technicians of the local mani/pedi salons a free microdermabrasion or mi-

crocurrent treatment in exchange for having them refer their clients to him.

Marketing differences “We primarily market our ‘standard’ service offerings (skin care, massage, etc.) to our existing clientele (and far beyond), through social media, print, etc.,” says Lavigne. “We attract the bulk of our clients through these avenues because we offer these typical ‘day spa’/relaxation services.” Yet clients who will go for technology enhancing treatments fall within two categories: the savvy ones, they know what they want and they’ve done their research; and the soon to be convert, those are clients who want to see results, whom you need to work a slightly different kind of “marketing magic” on.

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Internet “We’ve put a lot of money and effort into our website,” Seward says. He reasons that clients who’ve done their research for their treatment of choice go online to find just the right locale. In order to get clients to your door, you must maximize your presence online.

Not only should you have your website in top shape, but also consider spending some money to come up high in search lists.

Lunch and learn It’s another form of inhouse events but the perks are a bit different.

Here spas try to promote their more “aggressive treatments” by offering lunches to their clients as they lecture them about a procedure or even demonstrate it. A raffle is often of the order where a client gets a chance to win the treatment that’s being presented. Discounts are also offered to clients who sign up for the procedures within the next few days. “During a lunch and learn either the rep or I give a 15 minute presentation with a PowerPoint,” says Jenks. “Sometimes, if it’s a procedure we’ve been doing for a while, I’ll have a client who’s had it talk to the group about her results/experience. We have everyone fill out a raffle because often there are several new people and we want to capture their info.”

In-house events Donations Invite current and prospective clients for some pampering and treats at your spa. Many locales offer free events where clients are treated to food, drinks, and complimentary treatments. “Our in-house events vary. About every two months we have a makeup party or peel party,” says Jenks. “During these, we either do simple makeovers or 2 percent lactic peels, provide wine/cheese, etc., highlight several products that are on discount for that event only and maybe have something like chair massage, hand microderms, etc. During this time, the esthetician explains what the microderm February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Sometimes giving something away can bring much back into your business

Donate some gift certificates to non-profit organizations for their silent auctions and gain new clientele (see our article “Marketing Your Spa through Giving” in the December issue). “We donate gift certificates […] and all of those are for our medicalgrade facials,” says Jenks. “We get a lot of new clients who are willing to

visit us for a facial and then move on to more aggressive treatments.”

Reward your customers Get new and loyal clients coming back by rewarding them for their patronage. “I do offer 10 percent off anything that a new client purchases within two weeks of their first visit as a way of thanking them for coming in,” says Jenks. “I also offer $50 referrals fees to my clients. There’s no limit on those and so quite a few of my current clients try hard to get friends in my door!” Olson just started a loyalty point reward, where clients get points, among other things, for referring other people.

What not to do Groupon, our spa specialists seem to agree, is among the major no-nos. “I used Groupon once and it was a disaster,” Jenks says, to which Olson adds, “I’ve know spas that have gone out of business because of Groupons.” Not only does the company have spas give a huge discount on their prices, but also takes a major cut of the earnings left—at times leaving little if nothing to the spa. “It’s important to keep in mind that it’s impossible to make a profit (or even break even) when you discount a service to below what your basic expenses are for that service,” says Lavigne, adding, “most important […] it cheapens your brand.” Television and radio advertising don’t seem to rank high either. “I have never gotten return on TV or on radio ads, and I’ve heard that is true of many other medspas,” Jenks says. Keep up the chatter on Facebook, Twitter, blogs, as well as the email blasts, and get planning on these inhouse events where you’ll get to meet and earn the trust of the bulk of your technology treatment driven clients. n • Page 87


Investing in a Search Engine Optimization (SEO) might be a good decision for your business, which has proven to be the right way to go for many spas. Lauren Olson, founder and CEO of Radiance Advanced Skin and Body Care in the Woodlands, Texas, can attest to that. “Our biggest return on investment is definitely the Internet,” says Olson, who hires a company to get high-ranking placement in search results for her website. Spa Director Dr. Lisa Jenks of Genesis MedSpa in Colorado Springs, Colo., concurs, “I spend a lot of money to be sure we come up high on all those search lists.”

is doing and how that is incorporated into our facials.” These events allow you to set yourself apart from other locales, show your professionalism and savoir-faire with technology.











Page 88 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015


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With Adam Estrella

Spa Director at Elaia Spa at Olive 8 Hyatt Seattle

by Laetitia Longuefosse

Adam Estrella is the spa director at Elaia Spa in Seattle, Wash. He started off at Spa Montage in Laguna Beach, Calif., as a spa sales manager, moved on to be the spa manager at the Ritz-Carlton Spa Lake Tahoe, Calif., before landing at Elaia Spa. He received his bachelor of science degree in International Hospitality Management at Northern Arizona University.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? I breathe. I focus on the breath, such as in any meditation, it assists in removing the emotions that arise with the situation and then I’m able to gain better clarity.

Can you define the concept of your spa?

How many employees do you have?

Elaia, the Greek word for olive, is symbolic of peace, wisdom, and resilience, which are all important principles of the green movement. Elaia is committed to eco-friendly practices that minimize our impact on the earth. We have sourced the very best organic and natural products from around the Pacific Northwest and around the globe so that our team may deliver a truly result-oriented experience.

We have 22 employees at Elaia. For our technical therapists, we have eight massage therapists, two estheticians, and two nail technicians with one employee being a dual.

Can you give us a breakdown of your spa’s revenue composition? It’s 65 percent massage, 15 percent facial/esthetics, 9 percent nails, 6 percent retail and 5 percent body treatments.

How do you select the people who are going to be working with you? We perform a behavioral interview to ensure they are going to work together as a team, that they will deliver the highest quality customer service for our internal and external guests. For therapists, they also have to perform a service. During this process we look for a warm and caring personality, we analyze if they are customizing the service to the individual, and ensure that they

Page 90 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

and friendly service we pride ourselves on. We spend most of our marketing money on targeting the local market of the Pacific Northwest and charitably contributing to the Seattle community.

Demographics, local or travelers?

are providing the educational dialogue of their findings to their guest.

How do you train staff? We do have employee handbooks and training manuals for each type of position. We do hold monthly meetings where we have trainings for the group and go over any housekeeping items. We provide individual training to guarantee that we continue to raise our level of service for our guests.

Tell us about your marketing techniques… For marketing we focus on the service. Once the guest arrives to experience our expansive city spa facilities, we believe that our guests will continue to return to us based on the customized

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Twenty percent of our guests are hotel guests. Our members make up 7 percent of our business. The rest comes from our local guests, Olive 8 members and other Seattle travelers. We have become a local destination for celebrations, bridal parties, birthdays and anniversaries.

How do you keep local customers loyal? Consistent quality of service and customization for our guests’ needs is our highest priority. We believe that this is the cornerstone to create loyal guests. For those who enjoy a place that honors loyalty, we offer a complimentary service when they have paid in full for five same duration services.

Where is the retail area located and what is its surface compared to the rest of the spa?

What are your retail goals? We set goals for our therapists depending on their job function. For therapists, the levels of these are dependent on the percentage of treatment revenue they perform to retail revenue they perform. Estheticians and nail technicians have to achieve a higher level of retail to treatment ratio than massage therapists to be able to obtain retail commission.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals? We work with our vendors to create monthly contests for our service and concierge staff. Each month is different and allows for them to earn product or various incentives from the vendor. n

Elaia Spa at Olive 8 Hyatt Seattle: • 15,000 square feet. • 12 treatment rooms: five massage suites, three facial rooms, two body treatment rooms, one couple’s suite. • fitness center. • 65 foot indoor saline pool, co-ed Jacuzzi, locker area house with separate sauna and steam rooms. n

The retail area is in the spa reception area in the nail salon. • Page 91

TEAR DOWN the Walls Trust Your Instincts

by David Suzuki

Page 92 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015


ave you ever met a person and instantly felt as if you’ve known them forever? This deep and immediate connection is often described as fate, destiny, or a meeting of kindred spirits. While it’s difficult to truly define the experience with words, it’s unmistakable when it happens.

These encounters seemingly defy logic and the very boundaries that govern our sophisticated social behavior. As a result, we knowingly often deny ourselves of what our heart tells us is true. Do we ignore this primitive instinct because it appears to be illogical, or is it because we’re afraid to trust, let down the walls that protect us, all based on a feeling? Risky as it seems, without recognizing that this instinct is real we cannot grow or experience life as it was designed. Internally, we know this to be true.

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 93

business | tear down the walls

Today, personality testing is an industry within itself and can at times cost thousands of dollars to carry out and interpret.


Information mining is a staple in today’s society. Regardless of whether it’s part of a hiring process, making a purchase online, or filling out an intake form, our information is perpetually being mined in one way or another to help assist us in making more appropriate decisions. At the end of the day, it’s not all bad in that it works as a type of internal automated networking system that recognizes your patterns and connects you with other people, places, and things that seem likely to fit your profile. While information mining does bring privacy into question, it certainly makes “finding the needle in the haystack” a significantly more refined process and can greatly increase your rate of success. When the dust settles however, it’s still up to you to make the final decision; do you de-

cide with logic and reason, or go with your gut instinct?


The first occupational personality tests entered the American work force in the early 20s. By the 60s, personality tests were used for this purpose more often than to determine a person’s psychiatric sanity. Today, personality testing is an industry within itself and can at times cost thousands of dollars to carry out and interpret. The rationale is to pay it forward, in that avoiding a bad hire could easily save you much money and time. Page 94 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

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business | tear down the walls This seems like a logical and sensible approach, and the most strategic way to make a sound decision based on facts rather than emotion. But is it effective? Malcolm Galdwell explores this subject in his book “Blink,” and notes that

more often than not your gut or “blink” instinct is more accurate than the most sophisticated tests available.

He relates this to two philosophies: First, that more information is not always better. In fact more information can create a form of analysis paralysis. The second reason is because the data and the system suggests that you are not as important or qualified as a decision maker, and as a result you subconsciously surrender your God-given ability to make decisions. This in itself can be a very contentious tipping point, and has the potential to lead you to a place that you won’t recognize, yet only you know what’s right for you.


As skin therapists, it’s our very instincts combined with science and data that we use to determine how to serve each of our clients. In fact, many experts believe that success or lack thereof in the treatment room has everything to do with the person who is performing the service, rather than the product used or the type of facial that’s being performed. It’s the reason you can have the same business environment (clinic, customer base, service menu, etc.), intermix it with a different skin therapist, and achieve a different result.

The data and the system suggests that you are not as important or qualified as a decision maker, and as a result you subconsciously surrender your God-given ability to make decisions.

And by result, I mean the client’s experience that will lead to another booking, or not. It’s clear that an instinctual difference exists and that it can take a business from being OK to extraordinary!


So, what do you do? Make your life and business decisions based on what “feels” good at that moment regardless of the factual data and the consequences? Of course not.

In the end, good sound decision-making must include all of the available facts and data, and your intuitive instincts. This is the

part that we fail to recognize, respect and champion, yet it may be the most powerful tool that we possess. We process data and make decisions every day. When we’re interviewing a new team member, for example, we may ask a basic question, however, we’re experiencing body language, demeanor and even character. Most of our final decisions in life are based on our experience. These basic intuitive instincts exist in all of us; it’s up to each of us to recognize and

trust our instincts, and allow them to lead us where we belong—our vision.


The simple leap of faith of trusting your instincts will open up remarkable new pathways in terms of new vendor partners, new team members, new clients, and most importantly a fuller and more fulfilling life. Trusting your instincts allows you to make expeditious decisions that you know are right for you. When this is realized, you will be ready to live! n

David Suzuki, president of BioTherapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at or visit

Page 96 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

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expanding mission Bio-Therapeutic announced the launch of its technology throughout Denmark with their new partner, Faercsh. The launch was combined with the 25th anniversary of Faercsh, which hosted more than 200 attendees for two days of education, forward thinking technology, and celebration.





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Fairiche introduces its Radiance Skincare Collection, including a foaming cleanser, a hand cream, moisturizer, night cream, and anti-aging serum. Its Anti-Aging Serum contains a powerful blend of alpha-arbutin and alpha hydroxy acids that help brighten skin, reduce the appearance of dark spots and improve skin clarity and radiance, says the company.


recent addition Ilike Organic Skin Care welcomed Scott Cowdrey as director of spa business development, says the company. Cowdrey will assume responsibility for Szép Élet’s national sales teams and is tasked with ensuring the continued growth and success of the organization.


making a difference Éminence Organic Skin Care celebrated a tree planting milestone with millions of trees in 19 countries. Committed to creating products that are as safe for the body as they are for the environment, Éminence planted more than 3 million trees since its partnership with Forests for the Future.


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Bringing the Indian Holistic Science into the Spa

by Robert Sachs

There’s often a good deal of confusion about what Ayurveda exactly is, where it comes from, and what and how Ayurvedic treatments differ from other classical bodywork and therapeutic approaches. It’s the intention of this article to offer clarity of terms and a useful language that front desks and therapists can use when describing the benefits of Ayurvedic services.

Ancient Tradition Ayurveda (pronounced AH-YOOR-VAY-DAH) means LIFE KNOWLEDGE. “Ayur” means LIFE and “veda” means KNOWLEDGE. Ayurveda has been around for more than 5,000 years. Its most ancient root is in the Indus Valley of modern day Pakistan. It is practiced in various forms in India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet, and other parts of Asia. The Tibetan form of Ayurveda has also been practiced in Russia for centuries. • Page 101

organic & wellness | ayurveda 101

Not Religion An important point about Ayurveda is that it is a health, healing, and wellness system. It is NOT a religion. It pre-dates Hinduism and Buddhism, although both spiritual traditions have adopted Ayurveda as the healing system they employ. One must reassure clients that all the foreign words used to describe Ayurveda and its treatments are NOT religious terms and do not endorse or encourage the practice of one religion or another. The words are Sanskrit. The use of Sanskrit terms can be an exotic flair for spa menus.

While it’s good to know and to be able to properly pronounce Ayurveda’s Sanskrit terms, it’s also useful to know what they mean.

Energetic Qualities After the term Ayurveda, the next three terms people hear the most are Vata (pronounced VAH-TAH), Pitta (pronounced PIH-TAH) and Kapha (mostly easily pronounced as KAHFAH, although some might also say it as KAHP-HAH). These have to do with energetic qualities that each body has.


Vata is best defined by the term “to move.” On an emotional level, it has to do with inspiration. Generally, you will see it defined as “wind like” energy. It is most associated with our central nervous system and joints, and is responsible for movement—all things moving inside our body and how we move through space.


Pitta is best defined as “to burn.” Emotionally, it has to do with transformation. You will see it described as “fire like” energy. It is associated with our glandular and circulatory systems, and all ways in which our book cooks and transforms chemicals within us, such as in our metabolic processes, menstruation, and so forth.


Kapha is better defined by the concept of “holding together.” Emotionally, one can talk about grounding. Generally, it is described as being “earth like” energy. This has to do with our actual physical structure and its strength and density.

These three energies, Vata, Pitta, and Kapha, go by the Sanskrit term, Dosha (DOH-SHAH), which basically means “energetic.”As can be understood from these descriptions, we all possess all three. Yet people get confused because they may hear a person describing them as a Vata, a Pitta, or a Kapha. Thus people may think of themselves as one or the other of these three. That being said, it is a mix of these three in varying proportions that gives us different kind of constitutional make-ups.

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organic & wellness | ayurveda 101

Constitutional Make-Ups

Ayurvedic Glossary

In Ayurveda, there are seven or nine constitutions, depending on how you classify. The term for constitution is Prakruti (PRAHK-ROO-TEE). While all three doshas are present, a person can be a dominant Vata, Pitta, Kapha or combination Vata-Pitta, Vata-Kapha, or Pitta-Kapha body/mind type. A well-crafted, simple Ayurvedic questionnaire will provide you with information about a client’s Vikruti (VIHK-ROO-TEE) or condition—i.e. what is their daily experience of physical and emotional symptoms. The sole purpose of an Ayurvedic questionnaire in a spa should be to determine the type of touch, the quality and type of product applied on them, and the ambiance that will best suit the client’s needs to have a positive spa experience that day.

The following is a quick glossary of the Ayurvedic terms that appear most often on spa menus.

Vata dominance

Marma points According to Ayurveda there are 107 Marma points—vital points—throughout the body. As with acupuncture, these points correspond to internal organs and systems of the body, which respond to manual stimulation.

Shirodhara Known as a “psycho-spiritual” Ayurvedic treatment in the Tibetan tradition, it consists of a fine stream of warm oil poured onto the middle of the forehead for a period of time, creating a deeply relaxing effect that is beneficial for insomnia, general stress, tension, headaches, and to go deeper into meditation.

If with the questionnaire, you determine that your client is experiencing a greater dominance of Vata, keep the room warm and the lights gentle. Music can be soft, gentle, such as New Age type of music or woodwinds and harps. Use products that are warming and penetrating. The type of touch should be slow, rhythmic, and consistent.

Pitta dominance If Pitta is noticeable on the questionnaire, keep the room slightly cooler and more airy. Sidelight is ok, but not directly over the table. Classical music is a good choice for the Pitta client. The products should be cooling and not so penetrating. Your touch should be precise, emphasize on lifting the tissue and giving your client a sense of space in their body.

Kapha dominance If you notice Kapha as dominant, the room should be warm and cozy, but be careful that the room does not get too humid. The lighting can be low, and the music like a soft jazz or more upbeat. While you may want the Vata and Pitta client to fall asleep on your table, avoid this with Kapha. Keep them engaged. Products used should be warm and penetrating. Your quality of touch should vary; sometimes slow, sometimes quick, sometimes light, other times deep.

The sole purpose of an Ayurvedic questionnaire in a spa should be to determine the type of touch, the quality and type of product applied on them, and the ambiance that will best suit the client’s needs to have a positive spa experience that day.

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organic & wellness | ayurveda 101

Abhyanga It means “loving hands.” This is a full body massage utilizing a nourishing oil specific to the individual, marma points, and an understanding of the subtle “flows” of energy in the body. This technique may be done with one, two, even several therapists at once.

Ayurveda has been around for more than 5,000 years. Its most ancient root is in the Indus Valley of modern day Pakistan. It is practiced in various forms in India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet, and other parts of Asia.

Netra Basti It is an eye treatment, where a ring of dough is placed around an eye and plain or medicated warm ghee (clarified butter) is poured into the ring, submerging the eye in the amber liquid for about 20 minutes. It removes strain, redness, dust and grit from around the eye, and allows for more light to enter the eye, thus allowing one to see with less effort.

All in all, the message of Ayurveda is to make each and every treatment personal, inspiring, and transformative.To do this, some of you will want your clients to know that what you are doing is Ayurveda. But, if all the terms get in the way, let it go. Apply the knowledge and get the results. n

Karna Purana In this treatment, warm oil is poured into the ears— one at a time—and left for 20 minutes. This relaxes the jaw, helps with tinnitus, breaks down excess wax buildup and calms the mind.

Nasya This is a nasal treatment that can use various liquids (oils, herbs, teas), powders, even smoke for various health benefits. Common results are clearing of the sinuses and release of neck tension, as well as lessening of dark circles around the eyes.

Robert Sachs is a counselor, licensed massage therapist and educator. He is the author of “Tibetan Ayurveda: Health Secrets From the Roof of the World” and coauthor with Melanie Sachs of “Ayurvedic Spa.” Visit Sachs’ website at, email him at, call him at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax him at 805.543.9291.

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saving face offering face exercises at the spa by Nathalie Gouillou

She rocks back and forth on the chair

Ancient heritage

holding her neck as she stretches it and looks up. Yet she’s not having a moment or chocking herself, Carole Maggio is working out the muscles of her face. It’s called facial exercises and while there’s plenty of different kinds out there, the results are said to be worthwhile. So let’s take a look at this practice as the trend for “natural facelifts” continues to rise.

Branded under the names Facercise, StarFace Exerssage, Yoga Face, and Face Yoga Method among others, facial exercise, also known as face or facial yoga, is far from a new fad. Some say that the technique developed in Asia belongs to the 5,000-year-old system of Hindu traditional medicine.

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 109

organic & wellness | saving face

Others attribute it to ancient Chinese healing tradition and link it to the story of an empress, whose thirst for youth led to the creation of a rejuvenating program that included toning up facial muscles.

What facial exercises consist of: - A series of specific facial movements from 10 to 30+ moves - Fingers are placed strategically to help or avoid pulling - Movements must be done once or twice daily - Can be done sitting, standing, or lying down Some facial exercises also include: -

Breathing Facial massage Acupressure

If anti-aging treatments and products are among the most coveted (and among the best sellers) in the spa, proponents of facial exercises make the following argument: People go

Discover an

to the gym to keep their body toned and in shape, the same should apply to the muscles of the face.

The benefits Indeed, just like one lifts weights, squats or stretches to keep their body looking healthy and young, facial exercises consist of movements created for the muscles of the face to keep them toned and release tension. “Basically face exercises exercise the 57 muscles of the face and neck,” says Maggio, an esthetician, spa owner and expert in face exercises, who counts more than 30 years of expertise with her business Facercise. “I can make [my clients’] face look better in an hour. You can shorten and narrow your nose with these exercises because your nose grows the length of your years, it releases stress, you’re able to think more clearly, it can change lips, you can make the lips more full.”Danielle Collins, the British creator of the Face Yoga Method concurs and adds, “the benefits are […] anti-aging, reducing lines and wrinkles, lifting and firming, improving skin tone, reducing headaches and eye strain, relaxing tension, giving an energetic appearance to the face and a healthy glow.”


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At the spa Although facial exercises are meant to be practiced daily by oneself—Maggio argues that “all the exercises can be done while driving except for one that you can do at a stop sign”—

incorporating them as stand alone classes in the spa (to introduce your clients to it) or as add-ons after a treatment can be a lucrative inclusion that’ll bring an edge to your locale. Maggio, Collins as well as Yoga Face creator and yoga teacher Annelise Hagen offer their facial exercises in hour-long classes, either held privately or in small groups—most hour long

private classes run around $100, while group classes go for about $70 per person. Books, DVDs and CDs (which you can retail at the spa boutique) often come with the programs to allow people to practice at home. Facial exercise experts say the demand for their moves has been growing.

Events and Skype “Do an event and carry the book[s] and the DVD[s] in your spa!” says Hagen, “results come quickly and it’s really fun and non-invasive.” Private classes offered via Skype are another way to keep up with technology and the busy schedule of clients who may want to learn from the comfort of their home—Maggio’s one hour Skype session is $195. If some might only come one time, others say Maggio, are repeat clients who’ll want to get the moves just right and get into more advanced techniques—classes can be offered as packages while materials sold can serve for homework assignments.

As an add-on Facial exercises can also easily be implemented as an add-on after a facial, a massage or any other rejuvenating treatment. “The client can be taught a few face exercises and self massage for the face at the end of a treatment to do at home between treatments, which not only adds a niche angle to your services but maintains the benefit of the treatment,” says Collins. Offering to teach two movements to your client at the end of a treatment can be a great way to spark their interest thus market the classes.

Good for all There are no age limits and very few contraindications to facial exercises, in fact proponents of the technique contend that the younger one starts, the better off they’ll be. In addition facial exercises are extremely beneficial to people who have facial challenges, or who’ve suffered a face trauma or injury, those who are recovering from a surgery and people afflicted with Bells Palsy—a disorder of the nerves that controls movement of the muscles of the face. Facial yoga enthusiasts see few occasions where one should exercise caution and perhaps refrain from the “workout.” Hagen recommends waiting for Botox injections to settle

(about seven days) “because mobility is restricted”—one also wants to avoid Botox migration. Collins has this to say, “if you do have any particular needs, health issues or any of the exercises feel uncomfortable for you, please consult your doctor.”

Quieting the naysayers Some people, doctors included, are dubious of the practice and argue that the more one moves their face, the more it creates fine lines and wrinkles, just like a paper that is handled too much ends up with creases. Not so much says Maggio. “It’s facials expressions [that create wrinkles],” Maggio says. “We make 15,000 facial expressions a day, here we’re talking facial exercises with your fingers in places to make sure that only the right thing gets pulled, it’s done very specifically, while facial expressions are done randomly.” So get on making faces, your clients will thank you for it.

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organic & wellness | saving face

Get a taste of facial exercises for yourself before you sell your clients on it!

The ‘V’—from Danielle Collins’s Face Yoga Method Target: To reduce lines and wrinkles around the eyes and to make the eyes more open and energized.


Put both your middle fingers together between your eyebrows. - Apply pressure to the outer corners of your eyes with your index fingers. - Look up and start to move the lower eyelids upward. - Make a strong squint. - Relax and repeat six more times. - To finish squeeze your eyes shut for 10 seconds, then relax.

Danielle Collins—Face Yoga Method

Lion Face—a classic Indian face pose from Annelise Hagen’s the Yoga Face Target: To stretch and tone the muscles of the face and the cervical spine, releasing tension and bringing circulation to the face for a rosy glow and wrinkle release. -

Take a deep breath. Tighten your facial muscles. Scrunch your eyes shut. Clench your hands. Pucker your mouth, tighten everything. On your exhale stuck out your tongue. Open your eyes wide. Release your hands and muscles—repeat three times.

Annelise Hagen—Yoga Face

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 113

organic & wellness | saving face

Photo Courtesy of “The Ultimate Facercise” by Carole Maggio, published by Pan Books.

Eye Opener—from Carole Maggio’s Facercise Target: Opens up the eye. Tones the upper and lower eyelid, reduces puffiness and smoothes crows feet. Done twice daily it will produce quick results.

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- Place your index fingers together between your eyebrows, no space between the fingers. - Wrap your thumbs up high at your outer eye corners as if you have a pair of sunglasses around your eyes. - Pull your index fingers slightly between the brows. - Pull your thumbs up slightly toward your ears. - Squeeze your eyes tightly shut. Count to 40. n

Nathalie Gouillou is the associate editor at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. A former news print reporter, she has been a writer for more than 10 years. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communication and Print Journalism and a master’s in International Relations. Contact her at

Page 114 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

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Organic & Wellness News


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Elina Organics’ Aronia Berry Mask helps to exfoliate and brighten the skin, says the company. The skin restoring mask is brimming with antioxidants and phytonutrients. High in vitamin C, this mask improves skin texture.


riches of France Académie Scientifique de Beauté presents its Aromathérapie line with 100 percent natural active ingredients from France’s regions such as Everlasting Flower of Corsica, Provence Lemon, LanguedocRousillon Grape and Burgundy Blackcurrant. The line targets dehydration, anti-aging, shine, imperfections and redness, says the company. It includes cleansers, toners, exfoliants and treatment boosters such as oils and moisturizers.


flower power Ilike Organic Skin Care’s Rose Petal Whipped Moisturizer hydrates, nourishes and restores skin prone to eczema, allergies and inflammation, says the company. Rose oil tones, lifts, and replenishes a lack of natural oils in the skin. Vitamin C provides antioxidant protection while vitamin E also helps smooth out scars and thick skin. Corn germ oil keeps the skin supple and radiant.


citrusy and fresh FarmHouse Fresh introduces its Ruby Red Grapefruit Sea Salt Scrub just in time to celebrate February’s grapefruit month! The 95 percent natural ruby grapefruit scrub is a refreshing vegan and gluten free blend of salt, grapefruit extract, rice bran and soybean oils, says the company.


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FOR RESULTS YOU CAN SEE Nothing emphasizes an esthetician’s professional expertise more than the quiet snap of an ampoule neck and the subsequent application and working-in of the precious liquid.

60 YEARS OF EXPERTISE For over 60 years, DR. GRANDEL has been very successful in developing and manufacturing active concentrate ampoules for the professional beauty market. This background has provided us with a unique expertise in this category of skin care products. All active concentrate ampoules are made in Germany under the same strict standards that apply to the manufacture of medicinal preparations.

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Let’s Talk

MAKEUP With Nichole Bertucci

Makeup artist at Vibrance Medical Spa, Auburn, Calif.

Nichole Bertucci has worked as a makeup artist for more than 15 years. “I have always had a passion for skin care and makeup artistry, and helping people achieve the look they desire. I feel that makeup only looks as good as the skin underneath, so it’s important to integrate both pharmaceutical-grade makeup as well as skin care to promote healthy skin and a flawless finish.” IMPLEMENTING MAKEUP INTO A SPA When did you decide to implement makeup into your spa? We really didn’t implement makeup until I was hired. [The spa] never had a makeup artist until I joined the practice in 2005.

Why did you decide to implement makeup into the spa? There was a definite need for postop camouflaging following the facial surgeries (facelift, blepharoplasty, laser resurfacing, etc.) to mostly cover bruising and/or redness. Patients really appreciate this service […]. I believe there is a combination of clients voicing a need for it and the providers (RN’s, estheticians, etc.) recommending it to our clients. This is especially common when a patient is struggling with acne or a patient has had a peel or laser treatment and you don’t want them to apply just anything on their skin following these procedures. Where is your makeup area located? Our makeup station is located in the spa lobby waiting area and we chose

this location mostly due to the fact that it has the best natural lighting.

THE LINE How did you select your makeup lines? Through research and experimenting with the products themselves. Another major factor when bringing on a new product is the support that is offered from the company/sales rep. What are the most popular retail items? As far as makeup goes, we have a few different product lines available. I would have to narrow down the most popular items to [a] primer and

Page 118 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

have had a laser treatment, injectables, or a peel who may request to have a touch up before leaving the spa. I also encounter a number of teens who either need to learn basic makeup application or who need a healthy non-comedogenic/non-acnegenic makeup for acne purposes. Which service is the most popular? It’s a toss-up between makeup lesson with application and post-op camouflaging. PROMOTION

brightener, […] foundation, […] base mineral foundation, […] mascara, […] eyeliner pencils, and […] camouflage concealer. THE SERVICES What kind of makeup services do you offer on the menu? We offer post-operative makeup camouflaging, basic makeup application, makeup application with lesson, and color matching. How did you pick the services you wanted to offer? This was chosen based on the needs of our clients. Patients who have undergone surgery often take advantage of the post-op camouflaging service. Then there are patients who

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

How do you promote your makeup services? We promote the makeup services as we do with all our esthetic services and that is through a combination of various marketing strategies: monthly specials and/or events that are sent through an email blast to our clientele/patient database, word of mouth referrals, inner office referrals, and offering complimentary consults along with discounts to our current post-op patients. We have also found social media to be a great benefit in promoting our business and our services and products. Do you have special promotions for makeup? We have offered many different promotions and events for makeup services and products. Whether it be wedding season or a holiday event, we strive to stay creative and be consistent in offering a variety of events

and promotions for our clients. We are also putting together some different makeup classes/seminars that patients may attend, which will focus on something new and exciting each time. These events and promotions are planned anywhere from a month in advance to a couple days in advance. Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment? Yes. Our estheticians are huge advocates of healthy makeup as well as skin care. They refer their clients to me for cosmetic services following their esthetic treatments. They realize the importance of applying the appropriate products to the skin in order to keep it healthy. REVENUE COMPOSITION How profitable are makeup services? On a good day, makeup services can be just as profitable as the esthetician’s services. It is definitely not as consistent as the other services provided, however it definitely has an important place in our practice. Where does makeup rank in your spa revenue composition? Although I don’t have any specific numbers, our cosmetic sales have grown considerably over the years and continue to become more popular. n • Page 119

Do you know

? B s AC


Breaking down the concept of alphabet creams By Ami Shvartzman

ABCDEFG… when I close my eyes I can envision a pigtail laden elementary school child singing this tune, skipping around a playground. Who knew that this simple song would be the link to the newest craze in beauty?

Page 120 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

The concept of the alphabet cream is taking the skin care and cosmetic industry by storm. Cosmetic consumers in spa settings, drug stores and department stores are all looking for the same thing: simplicity in their regimen, with products that are much more complex. This gives them the ability to tackle multiple facets of skin care and makeup with just one little tube. We are currently living in what I like to refer to as a “makeup in your car society.” Women simply don’t have time for a multi-step skin care and makeup application. Beauty buyers seek safe, convenient, cost-effective and fast solutions when it comes to their beauty regimen. Enter the alphabet cream. Let’s break down the meaning of the term, one alphabet cream at a time.

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 121

image | do you know your abcs?

came extremely popular in Asia in the mid 1980s before creating excitement in the U.S.

Who it’s for: Think of this as the “matriarch” of all the alphabet creams, suitable for anyone of “tween” ages (about 8-14 years old) and up!

The CC Cream: Color Corrective, Complexion Correcting

The BB Cream:

What it’s for: The CC cream was created as an adaptation of the BB cream, although the differences are slight and there is no technical definition. CC creams also incorporate many different functions like SPF, antioxidant, primer, foundation, etc.

Beauty Balm, Blemish Balm The BB cream is what began it all! German dermatologist Christine Schrammek is credited with creating the first BB cream in the 1960s to use on her clients to protect their skin post-procedure.

What it’s for: The BB cream was designed to be a multi-tasking product. It is often marketed as a primer, foundation and moisturizer, and in some cases an SPF as well. How to use it: Depending on the features of the formulation, a BB cream may be used alone if the skin is oily. If the skin type is normal to dry, it can be used over a serum and moisturizer (and SPF if the product does not contain it). BB creams can also be used on skin that is problematic; some BB creams have ingredients that assist in treating acne or enhancing dull or dehydrated skins. The BB cream took off and be-

How to use it: They often feel a bit more whipped and lighter on the skin than a BB cream, and so prepping the skin with a moisturizer beforehand is key. Who it’s for: CC creams are normally marketed as having a focus on color correction, making them an ideal product for anyone in their mid to late 20s and up, specifically those with surface pigmentation, sallow skin or redness.

THE DD CREAM: Daily Defense, Dynamic Do All What it’s for: The DD cream was originally intended to be a body treatment; it began as a “Daily Defense” for feet and skin on the body. The DD cream was meant to diminish scars, stretch marks, reduce blemishes and generally serve as a moisturizing treatment, but somehow this made a shift.

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February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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image | do you know your abcs?

How to use it: It has since been marketed for its ability to disguise and diminish imperfections as a “dynamic do all” product for the face and an enhancement of one’s skin care regime, applied in place of regular skin treatment products, eye creams, moisturizers and even SPF (in some cases).

Who it’s for: DD creams are a hybrid, combining anti-aging, firming, mattifying and nourishing properties with the protective qualities of the BB creams and the color correction of the CC creams, which makes it the perfect product for those ages 30 and up. The DD cream is meant to just do it all! And finally, I bring you the latest frontier in the alphabet cream:

THE EE CREAM: Extra Exfoliating, Energy Enhancing, Even Effect, Elemental Emulsion What it’s for: The direction of the EE cream has not been established as of yet. Several cosmetic companies have introduced products with this nomenclature, but as with the other categories of alphabet creams there is not yet a technical definition, and so it’s difficult to pin down a specific age demographic for this product. It’s the perfect formulation for dull, lackluster skin with uneven texture and tone. How to use it: It is applied directly to skin and works as an ultra-sheer skin transformer to give skin a hint of healthy color and create an overall even effect, minimizing the look of dark spots, sun spots, post acne marks, redness and pores. It also delivers a high-level of SPF 30 protection and powerful antioxidants to help prevent sun damage

and defend against other environmental assaults that lead to uneven skin tone in the first place. Although the EE cream is the newest to the alphabet cream family, its inception is already making waves in the industry. The good news about this new market of alphabet creams is that they’re almost “foolproof” when it comes to recommending product to consumers. It’s very unlikely that someone would have contraindications to an alphabet cream, as they’re meant for just about anyone (with the exception of specific ingredient allergies, or products that contain an ingredient that’s too occlusive for oily skin types).

So what’s next in the letter craze? FF creams? GG creams? In my research, I found one cream that skipped way ahead to the ZZ cream, labeled as the “Ultimate Zit Zapping Cream.” This cream is a four in one product with foundation, CC cream, BB cream and pore primer combined. Alphabet creams have combined the worlds of skin care and cosmetics. Yet somehow, this new simplistic “allin-one” product approach has become much more complicated with its introduction. Lines are blurring as consumers are expecting more out of their makeup than just coverage. Today’s beauty buyers are more ingredient savvy and knowledgeable than ever before; modern technology and cosmetics marketing have provided the tools for everyone to better educate themselves. This, in turn, has created a buyer who has much greater awareness of what they are putting on their skin, and higher expectations of it. What’s to come in the future of the alphabet cream? Only time will tell. n

Osmosis Colour CC Cream Luzern Laboratories Bio-Suisse BB Cream (light or medium) Matis Paris BB Cream SPF 30 (normal-light or medium-light) Glo Therapeutics glo minerals Sheer Tint Base (BB cream) glo minerals Protective Liquid Foundation (CC cream) Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts Advanced Shades BB Cream jane iredale Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream Amarte Natural Finish BB Cream

Ami Shvartzman is the director of education for Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare. A licensed esthetician, she has worked closely with top spas, medical spas, dermatologists, plastic surgeons and cosmetic companies across the country. At Osmosis, Shvartzman uses her passion and knowledge of skin and cosmetics to educate her clients in a creative and professional way.

Page 124 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #294 on reader service card

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 125

nATURAL RESULTS Brock Beauty’s Infinite Lash is an eyelash enhancement serum that promotes thicker, fuller and longer looking lashes, says the company. The serum conditions eyelashes using natural botanicals and minerals to improve flexibility, moisture, and shine.


long lasting Palladio Beauty Group introduced its Herbal Matte Eyeshadow Duos created with a silky, smooth formula that glides on and blends seamlessly, says the company. Available in 10 shade duos, the eyeshadows are formulated with palm oil derivatives.


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colorful holders Qosmedix introduces new colorful cosmetic bags to its packaging collection. The bags, which are available in five colors, are just the right size for makeup essentials and make excellent promotional giveaways, says the company.


easy peel SpaRitual presents its UNVEIL Peel-Off Basecoat, which effortlessly peels off the glitter nail lacquer in one piece without nail polish remover, says the company. UNVEIL makes it easy for your clients to change their color and indulge their nails in sparkle and shine with a 1-2 day wear polish.


Page 126 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015


Professional Hair Removal Conference


Miami Beach Convention Center

Feb 28 – Mar 2, 2015 Pre-Registration ends February 18, 2014 Earn 18 continuing education hours in one weekend! Brought to you by:

Sponsored by: • 800-961-3777

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 127

Calendar of Events




FEBruary 8

february 8

PCA Skin Advantage by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

PCA Skin Chemical Peels: Science & Application by PCA Skin. Austin, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

PCA Skin Advantage by PCA Skin. Boise, ID. 877.PCA.SKIN.

february 22

PCA Skin Chemical Peels: Science & Application by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

february 16-21 Beau Institute Permanent Makeup Training Course by Beau Institute.

february 22

Mount Laurel, NJ.

PCA Skin Advantage by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.


PCA Skin Advantage by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

PCA Skin Chemical Peels: Science & Application by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

PCA Skin Chemical Peels: Science & Application by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.

East february 8 PCA Skin Advantage by PCA Skin. Charleston, SC. 877.PCA.SKIN.

february 22 PCA Skin Chemical Peels: Science & Application by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

onLINE EDUCATION ongoing A Deeper Look at Topical Ingredients by PCA Skin. Online Course.

Page 128 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015

Addressing Adolescent Acne by PCA Skin. Online Course. Alternate Therapies by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. An In-Depth Look at Melasma by PCA Skin. Online Course. Customizing Daily Care Regimens by PCA Skin. Online Course. Diminishing Deep Wrinkling by PCA Skin. Online Course. Evening Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation by PCA Skin. Online Course. Exploring Intrinsic & Extrinsic Aging by PCA Skin. Online Course.

HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST., 12 p.m. CST, 10 a.m. PST. Identifying & Treating Papulopustular Rosacea by PCA Skin. Online Course. Investigating Impaired Barrier Function by PCA Skin. Online Course. Laser and Light Therapy by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. Medical Esthetics by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. 201.670.4100. online-ce-activities

NaturaLash Level 1 Online Certification Class by NaturaLash. Online Course. 800.644.1297. Product Formulations as a Whole by PCA Skin. Online Course. Rosacea: Signs, Symptoms and Subtypes by NCEA Commission on Accreditation. Online Continuing Education. The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Miami Beach 2015 March 1-2 • Miami Beach, FL Dallas 2015 April 26-27 • Arlington, TX Long Beach 2015 September 20-21 • Long Beach, CA Philadelphia 2015 October 25-26 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 129


Reader Service No.

99............... Altair Instruments.................................................... 243 111............. Athena Beauty........................................................ 162 110............. Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.................. 167 8................. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... 180 55............... Bio Jouvance........................................................... 140 27............... Bio Photas............................................................... 295 95............... Bioslimming............................................................ 335 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... 139 97............... Bon Vital.................................................................. 265 114............. Cils France.............................................................. 131 115............. Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... 101 39............... Dermaconcepts....................................................... 224 132............. Dermapen............................................................... 136 25............... Dermaware.............................................................. 256 117............. Dr. Grandel.............................................................. 109 110............. Dr. Jeff..................................................................... .248 2,3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. 157 131............. Equipro................................................................... 242 49............... Glymed Plus............................................................ 303 43............... Grandelash-MD....................................................... 286 5................. HydraFacial............................................................. 201 59............... HydroPeptide.......................................................... 278 51............... Image Skin Care...................................................... 178 ................... The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa: 63 – 68....... Miami 2015............................................................. 88,89.......... Dallas 2015............................................................. 13............... Lady 119 125............. Le 294 61............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic .263 105............. 180 107............. 287 9................. Osmosis Skin 111 103............. PCA 110 127............. Professional Hair Removal Conference 53............... Pure Fiji................................................................... 338 21............... 346 123............. Rejuvi 149 44,45.......... Repê 196 69............... 346 24............... Rubber 317 17............... Shira Esthetics......................................................... 249 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

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February 2015 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

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Re-write history with Dermapen 3™ creates fractional micro-channels that activate the skin’s own renewal and repair response. With no injections, heat or time off work, Dermapen 3™ is safe on all skin colours to treat an array of skin conditions. Dermapen 3™’s Advanced Oscillating Vertical Needling (AOVN™) technology allows the pen to harmoniously glide over the skin with precision automation. Discomfort is significantly reduced, whilst the absorption of active treatment products is maximised. Unlike ablative or thermolytic technologies that destroy the epidermis, Dermapen 3™’s fractional rejuvenation leaves the epidermis intact, reducing negative side effects and downtime. Unlike laser, IPL or aggressive chemical peels there is no scabbing, grazing, bruising or crusting of the skin.

Dermapen™ is suitable to treat the signs of: • • • • • • •

Ageing Fine lines & wrinkles Sun damage Hyperpigmentation Age spots Acral vitiligo Rosacea

• • • • • • •

Dilated capillaries Breakouts Acne Enlarged pores Milia Scars Stretch marks

Procedures may be performed in as little as 30 minutes with the skin’s repair cascade continuing for up to two years – even after just one treatment.

Visit for more information. Call: 954-900-5901 | Email: Or Call Us Toll Free: 1 (844) 4-DERMAPEN Dermapen™, DPDermaceuticals™ Range, AOVN™ and™ are trademarks of Equipmed Australia. 283 Mona Vale Road, Terrey Hills, NSW, 2084, Australia. EQUDPE2011a. 01/15.

Page 132 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • February 2015 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #136 on reader service card

LNE & Spa - February 2015  

Be on top of your game with the perfect fusion of technology and touch with our special Equipment Guide! Find out how to pick the right equi...

LNE & Spa - February 2015  

Be on top of your game with the perfect fusion of technology and touch with our special Equipment Guide! Find out how to pick the right equi...