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LOOK!

SHIRT DRESS F 50S FASHION F CHIC BLOUSE F JERSEY TOP F SHIFT DRESS MAR 2018 ISS 108 £5.99

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The UK’s Best-selling Sewing Mag!

Easiest–Ever Patterns!

SEW IN SIZES

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6-22

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ALL-OCCASION!

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Speedy! ACCESSORIES · EMBROIDERY · QUILTING · TOY-MAKING · MORE!

SEW MARCH 2018 master_SEW 26/01/2018 13:20 Page 2

Hello... March

Who else is counting down the days to spring?

As much as I enjoy having the excuse to hibernate inside with my sewing machine and a mug of hot chocolate, I can feel the season changing as the birdsong gets louder and the evenings lighten… and I LOVE it! This issue your FREE New Look pattern offers four top styles that will become go-to pieces – when they’re as floaty and feminine as these, all of them will serve you well. If you’re thinking of making one up in a more delicate fabric, don’t miss Lauren Guthrie’s recommendations on p32.

Elsewhere, you’ll find other wardrobe essentials that are satisfyingly easy to whip up, in a wide choice of fabrics… try our jersey pencil skirt (p18) and baseball top (p30) or make a chambray shirt dress (p48), cotton shift (p26), and linen tunic (p41). On p22, Sew designer Amanda Walker combines cotton and crepe to incredibly chic effect with a duo print blouse.

This month at Sew HQ, the team have been thinking about the heritage skills that make up the UK’s rich history of craftmanship. We look at working with leather on p62, then explore embroidery on p44 and p90. With Mother’s Day on the horizon, read about why we should share our hobby with the next generation (p60), then learn about how the 50s inspired your wardrobe as you know it today (p46). We also have a choice of vintage-inspired projects… find gift ideas like our embroidery hoop girl (p80), handkerchief quilt (p54), rag doll (p71), clip-frame bags (p56) and retro headband (p57). Elsewhere, our pompom pots (p83), hexagon coasters (p69) and tea towel apron (p50) can be whipped up in no time.

If you haven’t yet, don’t miss your last chance to get involved in our Dressmaker of the Year competition – turn to p35 to see some of your entries so far. It’s easy to do, with a choice of six categories and an amazing haul of prizes up for grabs… you only have until 9th March!

48

Happy sewing!

Jenny Ward, Sew editor

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off !

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We hope you enjoy 20% off knit fabrics at Girl Charlee.

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Welcome 108.indd 2

26/01/2018 10:02

sew

in your March issue...

IN EVERY ISSUE

80

62

!

Step-by-step

59 70

06 Who, what, wear

What’s trending in the sewing world

83

15 Sew social

You’ve been sharing some great makes

77 The bookshelf

84 Your sewing guide 87 Top of the class

Learn from the experts

89 Next month

Our April issue’s out on 8th March

TEA BREAK

35 Dressmaker of the year Enter by 9th March!

46 10 times the 50s inspired your style

It’s the most relevant period in fashion history

59 Stuart Hillard

55 Peter Pan collar

Try your hand at simple patchwork and appliqué

56 Clip bags

70 Butterfly cushion

The latest must-reads Jargon explained!

KIDS 60 Mum & me

You must teach your kids how to sew

68 Confessions of a sewing addict

Corinne gets creative with metallic foils

73 Fighting cancer head on Claire Featherstone helps patients feel glamorous

90 Style detail: embroidery

71 Loubeelou doll

This month’s mascot is too cute

80 Dolly hoop

Create a pretty wall hanging

GIFTS

50 Upcycled apron

Turn a tea towel into handy kitchen-wear

It’s back, and it’s bigger than ever!

Vintage style has never been so easy

57 Retro headband

Finish your look with this feminine accessory

62 Pleather clutches & bookmark

Monogram for an extra special touch

74 Susie’s stitch school Embroider these nautical hoops

63 Debbie Shore

54 Hankie throw

64 Botanical beauty

HOME

pcycle vintage fabrics U into a light blanket

He’s feeling the urge to spring clean!

55

Embroider a sweet Scottie dog design

58 Hessian wraps

Turn jam jars into vases

71

Meet our mascot!

Learn how to stitch leather like a pro Bring a touch of nature into your home

69 Hexie coasters

A quick and easy way to use up fabric scraps

70 Storage hanger Upcycle a pair of jeans!

72 The fabric edit

Choose bright florals for spring

83 Pom-pom pots

Stitch an adorable storage solution 04

sewmag.co.uk

FREEBIES & OFFERS

6

Dressmaking 39

09 Four summer tops

26 Orla dress

18 Adele skirt

28 Indie pattern news

Pattern or no pattern?

We’ve got both for you to choose from!

20 Great crepe

Try these lightweight, drapey fabrics

22 Carrie top

06 2 5% OFF Sew Over It

Get money off ALL of their patterns!

Try working with drapey fabrics to make the most of your gift!

pages of fashion, garments & more!

Make a style that suits you from your free pattern

25% off!*

FREE THIS MONTH!

Combine two different fabric types

25 Sewing with Tilly

09

Sew an Orla Kiely retro-inspired shift Our top picks this month

30 Frankie T-shirt

Master knit fabrics with this raglan-sleeve tee

32 Lauren Guthrie’s top tools

...for sewing delicate fabrics

33 Stitch the look

Take the plunge with sewing denim

38 Simplicity vintage preview

Learn how to make bias binding

Try these fab tops from our online pattern hub!

30

22

07 10% OFF craft kits Say hello to new company Craftess

20% off!*

41 Lucy tunic masterclass

The perfect transitional dress for spring

44 Sewing SOS

Embroider your garments today!

48 Eilis dress Sew for all occasions!

07 20% OFF at Girl Charlee

Grab a knit bargain today

82 4 bonus downloads

66 S ubscribe today

Receive TWO free La -Di-Da Vintage patterns!

76 FREE metre of cotton fabric

Claim your FREE material today

78 Giveaways

It’s FREE to enter and we have £1,360+ of prizes up for grabs!

Try these patterns from our archive

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AND GET 2 FREE SEW LA-DI-DA VINTAGE PATTERNS

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Sizes 8-18

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18

FIVE FLATTERING DRESSES

SEE PAGE 66 05

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wear

who what

&

The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

Our next Dressmaker of the Year could be you!

There’s still some time to enter our Dressmaker of the Year competition - do it by 9th March! It couldn’t be any easier... simply snap a pic of something you’ve already stitched and upload it at makeittoday.co.uk /dressmakeroftheyear. Take a look at some of the fab makes we’ve seen so far on p35.

let's go!

Head to the spa town of Malvern in Worcestershire on the 24th and 25th March for Create and Craft presenter Stephanie Weightman’s Crafting Live show. Expect inspiring demonstrations from stitchy celebs, make ‘n’ takes from Brother sewing machines and Debbie Shore, and the opportunity to shop ‘til you drop. Based in the Three Counties Showground, tickets cost £5 per day or £7.50 for both, craftinglive.co.uk

25% off!*

Stitching in

Norway

Treat yourself to a seven-day Norwegian getaway from 13th-20th May, discovering the country’s rich textile heritage amongst breathtaking scenery and learning traditional Hardanger embroidery under the guidance of a local expert. The all-inclusive holiday ends with a visit to the home of famous sewing brand Tilda, situated on Tjøme island, to enjoy a tour of the showroom before crafting a specially designed project in a private workshop. Tickets from £2,499, sewandso.co.uk

Wonderwool Wales

Who else has a soft spot for Sew Over It patterns?

Use our discount code SEWPATTERNS25 to get 25% off the entire range!

But first, join us in swooning over their latest 50s style circle skirt, a voluptuous party piece that looks great with and without a petticoat underneath. It’s suitable for absolute beginners and a doddle for the more experienced, with three zip options and a huge range of suitable fabrics. Available in sizes 8-20, £7.50 (PDF), sewoverit.co.uk

*Valid 8th February to 10th March 2018. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

25% off ALL Sew Over It patterns!

Here’s a diary date for our Welsh friends: on the 28th and 29th April, the country’s premiere wool and natural fibre festival is taking place in Builth Wells - pay a visit to wonderwoolwales.co.uk to find out more

Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch!

NEWSFLASH! Sew columnist Tilly Walnes has just released a fabulous book on sewing knit fabrics! Her learn-as-you-make approach will have even knit newbies whipping up five comfy garments in record time - full-size patterns included. The best part? You don’t even need to have an overlocker. On sale from 8th March, £22.50, hardiegrantbooks.com 06

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Who What Wear 108.indd 6

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if you buy one pattern...

The theme of this year’s International Women’s Day (8th March) is #PressforProgress and, with the adage of dressing for success in mind, we’ll be donning a tailored jacket or two. New Look 6302 is a fantastic option because it’s sharp and feminine, with princess seams and two sleeve and bodice length options. The pattern is easy enough for confident beginners, and includes an A-line dress too! £6.95, simplicitynewlook.com

want it, need it, BUY IT!

Janome has released a new range of computerised models perfect for stitchers needing a machine that can keep up with their growing skills. The M Series starts off with M50 QDC, which boasts power and precision up to 820 stitches per minute. It comes with an extension table and 11 presser foot attachments – including a number of quilt-friendly feet and handy accessories! £539, janome.co.uk

Get 10% off ** with code SEWMAG10

Blazer £140, blouse £60, trousers £95, bettybarclay.com

Craftess kits

20% off knits!

Knit fabrics are enjoying something of a heyday, with myths about them being a nightmare debunked, and the sewing community embracing their comfort and cosiness. If you haven’t jumped on the bandwagon yet, specialist online shop Girl Charlee is offering 20% off all things stretchy, from Ponte Roma to gorgeous vegan leathers.

Visit girlcharlee.co.uk

Start-up sewing and knitting kit company Craftess has caught our eye for all the right reasons. Making it quick and easy to sew something you’ll love, like a Russian doll plush, cork wallet or the mini backpack pictured here. The boxes, hand-packed by founder Esther Pickard in Cambridge, contain a pattern, step-by-step instruction booklet and all the materials you’ll need.

From £20, craftess.com

Get 20% off ^ with code SEWMARCH

^Valid 8th February to 8th March 2018 on fabrics only. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer, or on sale or bargain lots.

**Valid 8th February to 8th March 2018. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

07

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SEW MARCH 2018 master_SEW 26/01/2018 13:20 Page 8

sew DRESSMAKING

dress

the

making

collection

sew cover star

It’s time to spring clean your wardrobe and try something new! Use your FREE New Look pattern to stitch four drapey tops, take an intro to jersey with a simple skirt, try making a shirt dress, or learn essential techniques in our tunic masterclass. Let’s get upskilling!

Adele skirt, p18

Carrie top, p22

Frankie tee, p30

Lucy tunic, p41

Turn the page and get started today!

help

here to

Orla dress, p26

love your free pattern

TILLY WALNES

MARINA HUNT

LAUREN GUTHRIE

DR SUSAN KAY WILLIAMS

Learn how to sew a mitred corner with our handy step-by-step.

The awardwinning tutor advises on embroidered garments.

Tells us all about her top tools for sewing delicate fabrics easily.

The RSN Chief Executive gives tips on how to jazz up your stitching.

P25

P44

P32

P90

09

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\

of your

Discover the

pattern

potential

your free pattern

Stitch up FOUR SUMMER TOPS using this month’s FREE NEW LOOK PATTERN, worth £6.95, or mix and match to make your perfect style. It has a chic ASYMMETRIC HEM, offers THREE SLEEVE OPTIONS and requires NO FASTENINGS because of its loose fit, letting you focus on the perfect finish with DRAPEY FABRICS.

STAY with it

Size 60 Microtex sewing machine needles. £2.40 for five, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

Staystitching – a tacking stitch commonly worked on curved areas – is so easy and worthwhile that there’s no excuse for skipping it.

This simple trick prevents the fabric from distorting, so do it as soon after cutting as possible – we did every edge of this top. Stay inside the seam allowance so it doesn’t show on the finished garment, and use a short stitch length to create a strong hold.

Most importantly, don’t stretch the fabric as you sew!

need a NEEDLE

Our favourite needle for this project is the microtex, AKA sharps. These are similar to universal ones but sharper and more slender, making them ideal for densely woven fabrics like polyester, cotton and batiks. Its thinness makes it ideal for topstitching, but also means that you’ll need to change yours more often. The size translates to fabric weight as with universal needles – 60 for very fine fabrics and size 80 for light/mid weight.

THREAD up!

Beyond colour matching, the thread you choose can have an impact on the finished look of your garment. You want one that will create strong and durable seams, but isn’t too bulky to blend into the fabric surface. We’ve used sew-all, but if you opt for a lighter fabric consider buying a speciality thread.

When using a delicate or slippery fabric, pick up a pair of microserrated scissors. The little notches on the edge of one blade are barely noticeable to the eye, but do a great job of gripping the fabric and preventing unwanted movement and mishaps.

Art Gallery Fabrics cotton voile in Praline Honey, £22.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

master DRAPE

Look for light to medium-weight fabrics with good drape to make the most of your free pattern. If you use material that is too stiff, the base will stick out like a tent rather than falling gently. Linen is a good option for beginners or to make a quick top – if you’re feeling adventurous, try sewing with charmeuse satin for a stylish evening look.

We colourmatched with Mettler Seralon universal thread in the colours Papaya and Smoky Blue. £1.59 each, minerva crafts.com

in a BIND

With no fiddly shaping or fastenings to worry about, you can indulge in decorative components without spending too much time on the project. A great way to add interest would be with contrast binding around the neckline and armholes – simply cut a strip on the bias that is twice the width you need, run it through a binding maker and stitch in place.

don’t SLIP

Xact 25cm micro shears, £39.50, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

FREE

extra help?r Need some 5 e ou Turn to p2g phtootse o guide bias bindin 10

sewmag.co.uk

Bargain

FABRIC BUYS!

Floral print stretch chambray in dark blue, £6.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Prym 25mm bias binding maker, £11.30, guthrieghani.co.uk

E

sew DRESSMAKING

5 pattern

your free pattern

style selector

pieces including binding!

Choose your favourite, or mix and match the sleeves and neckline finishes to make your own style. FYI, we’d pair all of these with fitted trousers or jeans to contrast with the loose, flowing top.

style a

COLD SHOULDER

A

Split-shoulder tops are fantastic because they bring all the benefits of a romantic and alluring Bardot style, but give decent coverage and let you wear a regular bra!

style B ALL TIED UP

Just because a top has no closures that’s not to say you can’t add one anyway. The faux-necktie in this view raises the deep-V and adds interest and detail to the front.

B

style c CRISS-CROSS

A modern and slightly edgy addition, the crossover straps added to the neckline not only look cool, but give a little extra stability and security in a muchneeded area!

why we made STYLE D

Cap sleeves are a firm favourite with us, and the lace strips gave this everyday top an extra special touch.

style D

QUITE QUAINT

Adding simple cap sleeves really ups the sweetness factor, and they pair well with the voluminous bottom hemline. Lace detailing optional but thoroughly recommended.

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D

the perfect

size

the right your free pattern

fit

what’s your size?

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-towear size that you’d buy in high street shops.

Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

don’t fall flat

You’ll notice that there are no darts in this pattern, yet it isn’t shapeless - even though it is semi-fitted around the bust. It is actually the gathers around the neckline that are to thank for this, which are enough to draw in at your high bust without affecting the fall below it.

ssybow tie? h Prefer a pu e loop wit Just replancegtth another le h of fabric

troubleshooter If you’ve cut your pattern pieces to find that the fabric doesn’t drape as well as originally thought (which may make the top look slightly tent-like), don’t panic.

Trim the angled centre-front and back seams so that there is a straight line from the top to reduce the volume without changing the overall shape.

EXTRA TIPS FOR SEWING LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS

take the plunge

3 Secure your fabric’s selvedge to the table with masking tape whilst cutting to keep it straight.

3 Transfer markings with tailor’s chalk or a soluble marker - don’t snip into the seam allowance.

3 Cover the needle plate with masking tape (then lower the needle to pierce it) to prevent fabric being sucked into the machine.

3 Tie seam ends off by hand rather than backtacking, as this can lead to puckered fabric.

Is the V-neckline a little too deep for your taste? No problem, simply extend the centre-front seam upwards and join this point to the shoulder seam.

Alternatively, fold an existing top in half and trace around the neckline to get your desired shape.

12

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your way

make it

sew DRESSMAKING

dream

machine £129.99

TURN TO P84 FOR MORE USEFUL FITTING AND MEASURING ADVICE

RL425

createandcraft.com Keep things simple with an easy-to-use machine that gets the job done. This lightweight yet robust model features a top-loading bobbin with a seethrough cover, lockstitch button and quick-change presser feet. Straightforward doesn’t mean basic here though, as this machine is well-equipped to handle any utility or decorative sewing you want it to.

Wow !

25 BUILT IN STITCHES 4-STEP AUTO BUTTONHOLE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL SMOOTH AND QUIET LED SEWING LIGHT

Next month’s FREE pattern

FIVE DRESS STYLES

Whether you prefer a fully-tailored pencil dress or a fit-and-flare retro number, we’ve got you covered with the gorgeous New Look 6094.

13

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Sizes 8-18

SEW MARCH 2018 master_SEW 26/01/2018 13:20 Page 14

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sew YOU!

Here are my beautiful grandchildren wearing the aviator hats I made using the pattern in December’s issue - I could take orders from the whole family, they were so well liked!

Checking out your latest makes is our favourite part of the day!

Brill Stepshort

Here I made this blazer using the New Look 6013 pattern that came free with your w, December issue of Sea in a fabric I got from local charity shop.

Jo Donnelly

I’m upcycling a quilted bed throw into a jacket for my daughter using Simplicity 8305, with fabric scraps and an embroidered vintage doily becoming an appliqué Russian doll.

I can’t believe how quickly I whipped up this Cleo pinafore from Tilly and the Buttons!

Charmaine West

I was inspired by Sew issue 103 to give sequinned fabric a go and stitched the Simplicity 8260 that came as the free gift.

I want to make another one with sleeves next! I added a lining (sequins are itchy!) and teamed it with a Simplicity 1099 full skirt - the perfect outfit for a concert.

Becky Anstey

Alex Campbell

p71 Say Hello to Loubeelou!

chosen by you

Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our monthly mascot.

“I’m pleased you like the name - I chose it because the doll reminds me of my youngest daughter who gets called Loubeelou. They’re both cute and a bit quirky!”

Elaine Martin, Sew reader Help us choose a name for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq

Elaine has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk

Continued overleaf

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social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

www.minervacrafts.com

Write in and WIN! Here’s the matching Winnats tank and Longshaw skirt I made from Wendy Ward’s new book A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics.

Di Kendall

I’ve just finished this lovely top!

I used Sew Different’s Panel Tee pattern and fabric and a lovely trim that I got from Fabworks Mill Shop.

Carol Gregory

I thought it was about time that my Granddaughter had a rainbow dress!

Robyn Nicholl

Guess how much I spent making this dress? £2!

I used the pattern that came free with Sew 104 and fabric from a car boot sale. Read all about it at theskintedsewist.wordpress.com Alice Irvine

I turned scraps into quilted make up bags for my work colleagues.

on the sew blog...

With a few simple clicks on Insta, you’ll have all the dressmaking inspiration you could need at your fingertips!

Stephanie Highmare

Are you Breton obsessed? Us too! Find out where the iconic stripes came from and check out our recommendations.

For Christmas I stitched my grandkids Hot Chocolate hoodies from a Made By Jack’s Mum pattern… I’ll be stitching the matching Hot Coffee for myself next!

Clare Bowes

Read about the travelling quilters that use snippings from strangers’ clothes in their work - would you get involved?

Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 16

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sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

e r a h s & h c t i t s ! hy triumphs with Sew Share your latest stitc POW-WOW I’ve finished this doggy print adult’s apron, and I’m making a kids’ one to match!

Sarah Alder

HHHH HH

WOODLAND MASKS I’m neglecting my sewing machine for my embroidery one… but I recently finished these off!

Jean Adams

sew

H

STAR letter

H

GET LIPPY

! new skills New year, pullover from Sew’s

18 was the Delia n to follow, especially My first project ofas20 a really easy patter lot from January issue. It wtime working with jersey. I learned at I thought as it was my first not to stretch it whilst sewing - bu ct! All in all, it - being mindful e non-fraying aspe th d ve lo d an n fu the curling was really pleased with the result.

I’m Michelle Hall

Sam Craig

I loved reading about Simplicity designer Mimi G last issue, as I really enjoy her patterns.

I recently made up her 8426 jumpsuit pattern for an awards evening, adding a self-drafted cape because… well, who doesn’t love a cape?

Linsey Williams

I LOVE the Gemma jacket from your February issue!

I used the free pattern from Sew’s website to make this for my Secret Sewing Valentine #2018SVE Charmaine West

PERFECT COMBO I’ve made the knit wrap top

by Gertie plus a Tilly and the Buttons Coco jersey dress to wear with it!

Carrie Davies-Bateman

JUST ADD WATER

Isla Mackay Sewing and inspirational women - Sew’s Feb issue is right up my street!

I finished the mermaid tail from issue 95! I kept the blend of pastel colours as close to the original as possible, and added padding to make it extra cosy. Needless to say, my Granddaughter was delighted with her unique gift.

Thank you for great projects and inspiration.

Sue Paul

Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 17

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Use less than a metre to whip up our

ADELE SKIRT

Sometimes, it’s the simple things in life that are the sweetest, like this figure-hugging stretch skirt by Amanda Walker. The basic pattern (which you can draft yourself, if you prefer) has very little shaping and no darts – when made up in a heavier weight knit such as Ponte Roma it fits to the curves of your body but still leaves you feeling well-covered. It’s also beginner-friendly – or a speedy make for more experienced stitchers.

Get started

• Jersey, 70cm (8-14: 1.14m wide, 16-20: 1.5m wide) • 3cm-wide elastic • Fusible interfacing or hemming tape

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

PATTERN Front/back: cut two on the fold NO PATTERN Front/back: cut two Meas A* x 66cm panels on the fold *Meas. A size 8: 22cm, 10: 23cm, 12: 24cm, 14: 25.25cm, 16: 26.5cm, 18: 27.75cm, 20: 29cm 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

stitch a PENCIL SKIRT

Check the online template if you need reference to draft your own

1

If using the pattern, download and print it at sewmag.co.uk /templates and cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide, then move on to step 2. If not, cut the pieces according to the no-pattern

18

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guide, measure 4.5cm across from the top-right corner and mark, then go 3.5cm down and another 5mm in, and join from here to the first point with a straight line. This will be the waistband casing. Measure 28.5cm down the right side and mark. Join this point to the bottom of the waistband line. Cut with the fabric on the fold, then repeat for the back.

2

Neaten all edges with an overlocker or overcast zigzag stitch. Pin the front and back pieces right sides together, sew the side seams with a straight stitch, then press open. Cut a piece of elastic to your waist measurement plus 2cm, then overlap the extra and stitch to form a ring.

3

Lay the elastic around the waistband of the skirt on the wrong side, lining up with the fabric edge. Pin, then sew in place using a stretch stitch. If using an overlocker, place the elastic 5mm down from the edge and overlock.

4

Fold the elastic down inside the skirt, then hand stitch in place at the side seams. Fold up and press a 3cm hem at the base, then stabilise the hem with interfacing or hemming tape.

Topstitch the hem from the right side using a twin needle.

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

sew

free pattern download

SHOPPER

sewmag.co.uk /templates

************************

HEAVYWEIGHT CHAMPION Herringbone Ponte Roma in pink, £16.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

Core skill: USING A TWIN NEEDLE

These nifty little tools are unparallelled for finishing stretch fabrics professionally – use a ballpoint one with stretch fabrics. Simply set up another spool pin on your machine and thread one reel for each eye of the needle. Make sure you’re using a presser foot that can accommodate the extra width, then sew a straight stitch.

You’ll see two parallel lines on the right side and a stretchy zigzag on the reverse.

Dream

MACHINE

19

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EFFORTLESS OVERLOCKER If you’re in the market for a new overlocker, it’s worth getting one that makes light work of every project.

Baby Lock’s Imagine model detects the thickness of your fabric and adjusts the settings accordingly! £1,129, babylock.co.uk

GREAT

crepe

2 3

Bargain

FABRIC BUYS!

1

As spring approaches, we’re drawn to more lightweight, drapey textiles. Crepe fabrics are a lovely option – often made from polyester, wool or silk – and known for their textured surface that can be pebbly, moss-like or crinkled. One of our favourite types is Crepe de Chine, which is similar to silk crepe but tends to be lighter weight and less textured. Whichever crepe you choose, all varieties come in a wide range of colours or prints and are perfect for dresses, skirts and slacks to layer now, then wear alone when the sun returns!

1 2 3 4 5 6

Spice island flower crepe in ivory, £4.99 per metre, fabricland.co.uk

Soft touch polyester crepe in lavender, £3.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Where Have All The Flowers Gone? crepe, £4 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

4 Bargain

FABRIC BUYS!

6

Coral pink silk crepe de chine, £43.50 per metre, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

BSC deep pink crepe de chine, £5.95 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

Alaskan blue silk crepe de chine, £43.50 per metre, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

Moss crepe in cappuccino, £4.99 per metre, fabricland.co.uk

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Combine two fabrics to create a

sew a

CARRIE BLOUSE

TWO-TONE BLOUSE

This casual shirt by Amanda Walker combines two fabrics to chic and flattering effect.

It features a crisp cotton print for the upper half and a block colour crepe that skims over the midriff and is longer at the back. You’ll practise techniques such as applying fusible interfacing, attaching facings, neatening edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch, plus making buttonholes.

Get started

• Cotton, 1.7m (112m wide) • Crepe, 1.10m (138cm wide) • Fusible interfacing, 30cm • Four buttons

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

COTTON Upper front: cut one pair Upper back: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair Collar: cut one pair Centre tab: cut one 4cm x 8cm rectangle CREPE Lower front: cut one on the fold Lower back: cut one on the fold 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

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Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then cut out all of the pieces according to the cutting guide and transfer any markings. Fuse interfacing to the facing area of the upper front pieces as indicated (see Core Skill panel), then neaten the edges.

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Neaten the shoulder and side seams on the front and back bodice pieces, pin right sides together, then sew the shoulder seams. Press the seams open. Fuse interfacing to one collar piece. Pin the collars right sides together, then stitch along the outer edge. Trim the corners, then turn right sides out and press. Clip the curve around the neckline. Pin the collar to the neck, matching the centre-back points and positioning the front edges of the collar to the notches in the

front neckline, then stitch. Leave the collar pinned down.

3

Fold the facing part of the front bodice to the right side, noting the fold line indicated on the pattern, so that the collar is sandwiched between the bodice outer and the facing. Pin, then stitch along the neckline as far as the shoulder seams on both sides of the front bodice, so a small step is formed in front of each end of the collar. Trim the corners, turn the facings to the inside, then press flat.

4

Lap the folded facings over one another, right over left, matching the centre-front notches together. Pin and stitch the base of the facings together, connecting the two upper front pieces together. Match the side seams of the front and back upper pieces, right sides together, then stitch. Press the seams open.

5

Sew a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back one. Match, pin, then stitch the underarm sleeve seams right sides together, then turn the sleeves right sides out. Pull the gathering threads up slightly and place each sleeve into an armhole.

6

Match the side and underarm seams together, joining the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam and adjusting the gathers to fit the armholes.

Pin, stitch, then neaten the seam allowances together. Fold and press 1cm around the base of each sleeve to the wrong side, then

To maximise the flowing effect if the lower section, opt for a drapey fabric such as crepe, viscose or silk types another 3cm. Pin and edgestitch the hems in place.

7

Fold in the long edges of the centre tab twice and edgestitch to secure. Form the strip into a loop and position the two ends either side of the centre-front base of the front opening. Neaten the sides of the lower front and back shirt pieces. Fold four pleats across the top of the lower front as indicated on the pattern. Stitch across the top of the pleats to secure. Repeat for the back. Match,

pin, then stitch the side seams of the lower front and back pieces together.

8

Pin the lower shirt pieces to the upper section right sides together, matching the centrefront, back and side seams. Pin, stitch, then trim the seams. Neaten the base of the lower shirt, then turn and stitch a 5mm hem. Make four buttonholes on the right side of the front opening as indicated on the pattern, then stitch four buttons in the corresponding places on the lefthand side.

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

sew

FUSIBLE INTERFACING

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Lay your fabric out wrong side facing up on an ironing board, then place the interfacing on top with the fusible (bumpy) side down. Lay a damp pressing cloth or old dish towel on top of the interfacing, ensuring that all of it is covered.

Press the iron down for 10-15 seconds (depending on fabric weight). If you need to apply heat to another area, lift the iron and set it down; if you glide it, the fabric and interfacing may shift and stick to the ironing board cover.

Leave to cool completely before moving so that the glue has time to set and stick to the fabric.

sew

SHOPPER

************************

CHINOISERIE WIT We used this geometric print from the In Blue collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. Visit hantex.co.uk/agf for stockists.

VISCOSE CREPE This Atelier Brunette fabric in Midnight makes a lovely contrast for the blouse’s lower half. £15.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

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Sewing with Tilly ADD A PRETTY DETAIL TO THE SEAMS OF YOUR GARMENT

�B

ias binding creates a neat finish on seams that aren’t attached to anything else. The bias cut allows the binding to stretch slightly, which is handy for manipulating around curves, plus you can make it in any print, colour and width! For the best results, use a light to medium-weight woven cotton.

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You’ll need a large piece of fabric and a binding maker for this method – the latter is not essential for making binding but I’m using a 12mm one here that makes 12mm-wide single-fold bias binding. To make double-fold binding, press the single-fold binding in half lengthwise after it comes out of the maker – you’ll end up with 6mm-wide binding with a 12mm maker.

Cut straight across the ends , then place two right sides together at 90°. Draw diagonally across the area where they cross, creating a triangle. Stitch along this line to join the strips, backtacking at each end. Trim the triangular outer corner, leaving a 10mm seam allowance. Press the strips apart and press the seam open. Repeat with the others to make one long strip.

Fold your fabric on the bias grain at a 45° angle to the selvedges, so they are lined up with the crosswise grain. Use a ruler or pattern master to draw strips parallel to the fold, the width being double the width of the maker you’re using – or just a teensy bit under to leave a gap between the raw edges. Here, I’m drawing them at 23mm wide.

Lay the strip wrong side up on an ironing board. With the bias binding maker flat side down, feed one end of the strip through the wide end. Pull the maker away and folded fabric should come out the other side. Checking the raw edges are centred, follow the path of the maker with your iron, pressing the binding as it comes out of the maker to set the folds in place.

�

Cut along these lines to create your strips - if you have a rotary cutter and cutting mat, this will be much quicker than scissors. Cutting the strips on two layers of fabric means you can cut two in one go. Make enough so the total length is a bit more than you need for your binding. For example, the armholes on my Etta dress pattern which I’m using here will need 1.2m.

Use single-fold (pictured first on the left) on the inside of a garment, and double-fold (pictured right) to bind an edge where you want it to be visible on the outside as well as on the inside of a garment – simply fold it in half lengthways with the raw edges on the inside of the fold, then press. And that’s it, now you can attach the binding to your lovely garment!

For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com 25

sewmag.co.uk

Create your own bias binding to make the

ORLA DRESS

Get started

• Fabric, 2m (1.14m wide) • Contrast fabric • 22” concealed zip

Sizes 8-22

Cutting guide

Front: cut one on the fold Front side panel: cut one pair Back: cut one pair Sleeve: cut one pair Pocket bag: cut one pair 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout except for at the neckline, where 1cm is used.

stitch a PIPED TUNIC

Made up in a bold retro-inspired print, this smart shift dress by Amanda Walker features the holy grail of any garment... built-in pockets! These edges, along with those of the neckline, sleeve cuffs and hemlines, are all bound in a contrast colour bias binding that you’ll be making yourself to achieve the perfect finish, as well as inserting a concealed zip.

4

Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the back opening, then open out and with the right side of the fabric facing up, place the opened zip face-down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance. Pin, then stitch. Backstitch, then sew the other side of the zip in place. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side at the top of the centreback seam and pull up to close.

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Match the shoulder seams of the front and back dress, right Download and print the pattern at sides together, pin, then stitch. sewmag.co.uk/templates, cut Press the seam allowances open. out all the pieces from your main Make a bias strip as before that fabric according to the cutting guide, measures the length of the neckline, then transfer all of the markings. Make then fold and press in 1cm on either a bias strip from 5cm-wide contrast side. Open one side of the bias strip fabric (see photo guide on page 25) and position it around the neckline. that is the length of the curved edge on Pin, then stitch along the fold line the front piece, and stitch in place. pressed into the strip.

Repeat for the other curved side.

Fold the strip over to the

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Sew the pocket bags to the lower curved part of the front piece as far as the small dot on the pattern. Clip the seam and press it down towards the hem. Stitch the darts into the front side panels, then press them up towards the shoulders.

Match the side panels to the front piece and around the edges of the pocket bag, pin, then stitch. The bias strip should show on the right side of the seam. Press the seams towards the centre front.

3

Neaten down the front and side panel seam, around the pocket bag, down the side edges of both the front and back dress, the centre back edges, and across the shoulders.

Match the centre-back seam as far as the zip notch and stitch from the base of the dress to this point.

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wrong side of the neckline and position the remaining folded edge over the stitching line. Pin and edgestitch in place, sandwiching the raw edge of the neckline inside the bias binding; alternatively, slip stitch by hand. Trim any excess binding at the edges of the centre-back edges, fold back the ends and slip stitch to secure. Match the side seams together, pin, stitch, and press the seams open.

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Cut another 5cm-wide contrast bias strip measuring the length of the sleeve hem and fold in half lengthways. Position along the base of the sleeve and stitch, then repeat for the other sleeve. Neaten all the raw edges together and press them up into the sleeves so that the contrast bias shows on the right side.

Find a photo guide for bias .binding on the previous page!

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Sew a row of gathering stitch around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back notches.

Neaten the underarm edges of the sleeves. Match, pin and stitch the underarm sleeve seams, right sides together, press them open, then turn the sleeves to the right side. Pull the gathering threads up slightly and place the sleeve into the armhole of the dress.

9

Match the side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeve together, positioning the notch in the centre of the sleeve against the notch at the end of the shoulder seam,

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then adjust the gathers to fit the armhole. Pin, stitch, then neaten around the seam allowances of the armhole. Repeat to add the second sleeve.

10

Cut another 5cm-wide contrast bias strip that measures the circumference of the dress hem plus 3cm. Fold the strip in half lengthways, then stitch the two ends together. Position this along the base of the dress and stitch in place.

Neaten all of the raw edges together and press up into the dress so that the contrast bias shows on the right side of the dress.

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew

SHOPPER ************************

NOD TO MOD We used Mod Paper Indigo from the Blush collection by Art Gallery Fabrics as the main print, plus the Mod Paper Citrus as the contrast. For stockists, visit hantex.co.uk/agf ************************ thank you for shopping!

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KS FR O M I

ND

EP

EN

NDIE pattern news

SIZ ES

TO

IC PP

20 8-

DE NT

D E SI G N E R S S

E IZ S 6 -2 0

Moderne coat

by Blueprints for Sewing Difficulty: Inspired by the aerodynamic curves and clean lines of Art Moderne architecture, this drop-shoulder cocoon coat is cosy and comfy with good-sized pockets. Opt for the stretchy ribbed collar and cuffs you’d expect on a cool bomber jacket before you define the seam lines with piping, or keep things smooth with a flat-band collar, hemmed three-quarter length sleeves and decorative topstitching. It can either be fully lined or finished with even more piping, and worn year round - make it up in anything from lighter denim to cosy wool. £9.45, blueprintsforsewing.com

SIZ

ES 8-24

Crossover back detailing Orsola dress

by By Hand London Difficulty:

This chic sheath dress is figure-flattering, elegant and has a surprising wrap-over back that we just can’t get enough of. It doesn’t need any fastenings (yay!), and the fully-lined bodice and faced hemlines get a big thumbs up too - finish the base straight across at the front, or jazz it up with tulip scallop detailing. Confident beginners might like to stick to linen or cotton lawn, but with special drapey woven fabrics there isn’t an occasion this dress wouldn’t see you through... did we mention it’s also really cool as a separate wrap skirt? £9.50, byhandlondon.com 28

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sew DRESSMAKING Paper

MILA DUNGAREES

Paper

by Tilly and the Buttons Difficulty:

Lark cardi

Excitement alert: there’s a brand new pattern from TATB, and we love it! These dungarees are slim-fitting around the hips and legs, with a button opening on each side that both look fab and make them a doss to put on. You’ll get great results from any medium weight stretchy woven fabric like denim or needlecord.

It’s all topped off with a classic racerback, bib and back pockets. £9.50/£12.50, tillyandthebuttons.com

by Jamie Christina Difficulty: Haven’t stitched with knits before?

This pattern is a great place to start - just grab a fabric that’s more stable but still has some stretch, like Ponte Roma, and get sewing with the help of comprehensive instructions!

Lark is a comfy knee-length cardi with patch pockets that would work equally well as a light cover-up and a heavier coatigan, with the choice of a wide collar or hood. It’s a great everyday garment as it is or for more experienced stitchers, the simplicity of this design lends itself to customisation. £7.96/£10.86, jamiechristina.com

SIZ ES

20 6-

SI Z

The ES

6-20

team LOVES Paper

Hemisfèric coat

by Pauline Alice Difficulty: Here’s the perfect opportunity to challenge yourself and create something you’ll wear for years to come. Featuring a funnel collar plus fit-andflare shaping, this mid-thigh length coat has a really modern silhouette with contemporary details like the easy-fit twopiece raglan sleeves and hidden front zipper closure.

Complete with in-seam pockets, it’s fully lined for extra luxury and warmth.

Wool is the ideal fabric for this structured garment, but any medium to heavy weight woven fabric would work well - as for the lining, the world is your oyster! £7.10/£12.42, paulinealice.com 29

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Master knit fabrics with the

FRANKIE T-SHIRT

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew a JERSEY PULLOVER

Designed for single knit jersey, Tilly Walnes’ relaxed tee is perfect for everyday wear. It allows you to practise inserting easy three-quarter or full length casual raglan sleeves (which let you move freely and are easier to attach than ‘set-in’ sleeves), then stitch a round neckline and create a gently curved hem. Don’t worry if you don’t have an overlocker, simply sew seams using a zigzag stitch then trim the seams by 5mm to reduce bulk.

Get started

• Main fabric, 75cm (1.5m wide) or 1.5m (1.15m wide) • Sleeve fabric, 75cm for long sleeve or 60cm for three-quarter-length sleeves (all widths) • Neckband fabric, 7cm (all widths)

Sizes

Note: choose the correct size based on your body measurements 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Bust (cm) Waist (cm) Hip (cm) 76 61 84 81 66 89 86.5 71 94 76 99 91.5 81 104 96.5 101.5

86.5

109

106.5 112

91.5 96.5

114 119.5

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Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then transfer any markings. Pin the front bodice and sleeves right sides together along the raglan seam, matching corners and notches.

Stitch or overlock, then press the seam towards the sleeve.

Repeat step 1 with the back bodice piece. It is easiest to start with the front bodice laying face up, pinning the back bodice to one sleeve, then pulling it over to meet the other sleeve. Again, press the seam towards the sleeve after stitching or overlocking.

Take the neckband piece and fold it in half widthways, right sides together, then pin.

Stitch or overlock the short open edge to make a ring, then press the seam open. Fold the ring in half lengthways, wrong sides together, then press.

Cutting guide

Front bodice: cut one on the fold Back bodice: cut one on the fold Neckband: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut two 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

With the bodice and sleeves right sides facing up, pin both raw edges of the folded neckband to the right side of the neckline, aligning its seam line with one of the back raglan seams. When pinning the neckband, be sure to stretch it evenly around to fit.

Stitch or overlock the neckband to the neckline, then press so the the seam lays inside the bodice and the neckband is flat. Topstitch just below the seam line to secure the seam to the bodice.

Press with plenty of steam to reduce any stretching and so it sits flat.

Pin the underarm and side seams right sides together, matching notches first. Stitch or overlock in one continuous line from the sleeve cuff, then press the seams open. Press the bodice hem 2cm to the inside, pin, then topstitch.

Repeat on each sleeve cuff.

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill: RAGLAN SLEEVES If you’re using a regular sewing machine when working the raglan sleeves, join seams with a narrow zigzag, 2–2.4mm long by 1–1.5mm wide, back-tacking at each end unless the step says otherwise.

Fashion Photography © Ellie Smith, Step Photography © Fanni Williams

get the

book

Find tips, projects and more in Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch!

(Quadrille) by Tilly Walnes. £22.50, hardiegrantbooks.com 31

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STITCH IT WITH

Lauren Guthrie’s

TOP 4forTOOLS delicate fabrics

W

hen working with delicate fabrics there are certain tools out there that can make life easier! Finer materials tend to move around and have more drape, plus they require gentler handling.

For these reasons, you might want to invest in a few new tools… they might be small but they’ll make a big difference to your sewing experience.

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3 2

4 1 SUPER

FINE PINS

Very fine pins help to prevent your material from snagging – their longer length means you can hold together more fabric with fewer pins! £8.16, prym.com

2 XACT MICRO SHEARS

It can be tricky to keep control when cutting delicate fabric, but these have little micro teeth which help grip it. They’re also rustproof ! £39.50, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

3 MACHINE NEEDLES

Size 60 Microtex sewing machine needles have a thin, accurate point that will help prevent snagging your fabric as you sew. £2.40 for five, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

If your sewing machine starts to chew up your material, sandwich the fabric between two layers of acid-free tissue paper to stabilise the seam while you stitch. Once the seam is sewn, gently tear the tissue away...

4 BIAS BINDING MAKER

Finishing your garment with bias binding handmade from a similar fabric can give you a better result as premade versions tend to be stiff. From £9.84, prym.com

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sew DRESSMAKING

Stitch the Look

WHY NOT TRY

SLICK DENIM

1

If you find yourself sticking to the same fabric types, is 2018 the year you’ll try working with denim? Just a decade or so ago there wasn’t much choice when it came to these fabrics. Nowadays however, there are more colours and varieties that make it a pleasure to sew – just grab yourself a denim needle and you’re good to go. Be mindful of the grainline of your material when cutting out so it’s the same on all of the pieces, plus don’t forget that denim can shrink – always wash it first before cutting and sewing!

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“Denim is a hard-wearing cotton fabric that is perfect for dresses, trousers, shirts, bags, jackets and light coats. For extra comfort and fit, go for a stretch denim - it contains a small amount of spandex so has a bit of give to it and is easy to wear”

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Pip Price, Dragonfly Fabrics

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SS18 Premium range, tuclothing. sainsburys.co.uk

1 Indigo denim, £12.50 per metre 2 Light blue washed denim, £12.50 per metre 3 Black stretch denim, £12.90 per metre 4 Turquoise washed stretch denim, £12 per metre 5 Blue stretch denim, £12.90 per metre All of the featured fabrics are available at dragonflyfabrics.co.uk 33

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SIX

easy-to-enter

categories Everyday

. . . t x e n r u o e B

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Anything you’d wear on a day-to-day basis.

Occasion Ensembles you’d put on for parties or special occasions.

Vintage

Share retro-inspired makes from your fave era.

Upcycling Bring new life to existing items by customising.

’s Chiwld earren Show off your favourite makes for youngsters!

NEW!

Simplicity

Stitch up ANY Simplicity pattern and send us a snap.

enter HOW TO

YOUR LAST CHANCE TO ENTER AND RECEIVE TWO FREE SIMPLICITY PATTERNS! If you haven’t entered our Dressmaker of the Year competition yet, perhaps we can persuade you to take five minutes and try your luck! You might be thinking that the idea of a dressmaking competition sounds daunting but really, it’s a chance to show off your creations and be proud of your me-made garments. You don’t have to create something specially for it either… just snap a photo of something you’ve already made and enter it by 9th March. We’ve thought up six categories that will let your creativity shine. The best part is that you can enter as many of these as you like – so you don’t even have to choose one!

WIN!

£3,500+ of sewing goodies!

There’s a host of prizes up for grabs, including a Janome Atelier 5 sewing machine, worth £999, an Adjustoform Olivia 8 dressform, Madeira threads, and much more for the crowned champion! Our other category winners will each win a Janome 230DC sewing machine worth £349, £100 of Hobbycraft vouchers, and a pair of personalised scissors from Fiskars worth £70. Every entrant will also receive TWO FREE patterns from Simplicity!

Simply take a clear photo of your garment against a plain background and enter it online at makeittoday.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear.

You can include up to five shots of your make and can tell us a little more about your entry or the story behind it.

You can enter each category, with multiple entries if you wish, but each entry must be a different garment. All entries must be submitted by...

9TH MARCH 2018.

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DMOTY march (f).indd 35

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“This is one of the first dresses I ever made, using Simplicity pattern 1252.”

Sarah Bridger, Simplicity category

Frankie Baldwin, Occasion category “I made this dress with a stretch viscose from Sewalicious and lined it with a purple cotton.”

“Here are embellished jeans and a top I made from an old puffer jacket for the first year of my fashion course, where we had to create one garment from recycled materials and one from charity shop finds. Through my research I was taken aback by some of the conditions that people abroad work in to produce garments for the UK. The embellished images, words and numbers reflect these areas of my research.”

“My proudest moment was making my daughter’s prom dress. It uses stretch lace for the top and cotton for the bottom. Each gem was put on individually!”

Nina Croft, Occasion category

Tazmin Porter, Upcycling category

“I made this dress in a green satin for the Oscar Wilde Society Birthday Dinner.

Oscar is associated with the green carnation and we meet to eat, drink and celebrate his life, so a green frock was both elegant and apt for this special occasion.”

Carrie Marshall, Everyday category

“My Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dress - the perfect dress for smart or casual, work or evenings out. I made it in a Robert Kaufman fabric from John Lewis and love it. You’ve got to love a dress with pockets!”

Jennifer Williams, Everyday category

Vanessa Heron, Occasion category

“I made this dress for my little girl. It’s sewn from cotton with a bodice and a gathered skirt, plus buttons up along the back.”

“This is a 1920s balloon style evening coat made using a vintage pattern.

The lining is made from a vintage gold coloured silk sari while the coat itself is made from a heavyweight embroidered upholstery fabric.

It has a large self-covered button, rouleau loop, and hook and eye fastening.”

Sheena Read, Children’s Wear category

Jacqueline Mitchell, Vintage category

Clare Barker-Caress, Children’s Wear category “I made this from a vintage 1950s pattern in a striped cotton, with full button through to the hem.”

ENTER AT MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK/DRESSMAKEROFTHEYEAR DMOTY march (f).indd 36

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RANT ENTE E EVERLY C RE EIEV WI L O TW NFSR FROM ER ICITY! PATTIM S PL Tilly Walnes

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Meet our judges

The supertalented designer, seamstress and founder of pattern house Tilly and the Buttons will be imparting her creative flair and technical wisdom to our panel.

Miss Libby Rose

Popular sewing star Miss Libby Rose believes in the therapeutic benefits of stitching and travels the UK, teaching and spreading the word in her Pink Sewing Bus.

“I wanted to make a circle skirt for ages and decided on a stiff denim, cream lace at the bottom to add detail and a silver elastic waistband.”

Sarah Sutherland-Booth, Everyday category

Stuart Hillard

Beloved former Sewing Bee sensation, our main man Stuart is also an author and popular TV personality. He has a passion for textiles and crafting innovation.

Portia Lawrie Our first Dressmaker of the Year, refashion queen and blogger supreme, Portia’s know-how and competition insights make her a true asset to our judging panel.

“Here I used fabric by Alexander Henry, one of my favourite designers. This was made for my boss’s daughter for a New Year’s Eve party. I had to adjust patterns, lengthen the sleeves and take the trouser legs in. She was absolutely delighted with it!”

Vicky Gill Showstopping queen of the sequins, Strictly’s head costume designer and commercial seamstress will certainly be bringing sparkle in the bucket loads to our judging dream team.

“My granddaughter lives in Canada and I made this for her graduation using two different patterns for the skirt and off-shoulder top. I stuck Swarovski crystals individually to the bodice and attached the bow on the side with an invisible press stud so that it can be worn with or without it.”

Carol Woodward, Occasion category

Sally Fox, Occasion category

“Here I used and adapted Simplicity pattern 4070. For the overskirt I cut a circle skirt in voile and for the over bodice taught myself how to use bias cut pieces to make the pleated area, then glued sequins on the upper bodice. My granddaughter wore it for her school prom last year. She was the belle of the ball!”

Barbara Eastwood, Occasion category

“This was the first time I have made a dolman sleeve. I lengthened the sleeves with a double cuff, adding contrast orange piping to the sleeve cuff and neckline. I inserted an invisible zip and adjusted the back of the pattern so the dress sat nicely as it was very broad there and the neckline gaped. I was unsure of the sleeve design but it has grown on me! It’s also very comfortable to wear and disguises a large bust.”

Jean Board, Vintage category

ENTER AT MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK/DRESSMAKEROFTHEYEAR DMOTY march (f).indd 37

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SEW MARCH 2018 master_SEW 26/01/2018 13:20 Page 40

YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Adding in-seam pockets 3 Neck facings 3 Setting in sleeves 3 Rouleau loops

sew DRESSMAKING

sew masterclass

Opt for the classic A-line with our

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

LUCY TUNIC

This loose-fitting dress is such a good transitional garment, with practical midlength sleeves and made up in a breathable heavyweight cotton-linen blend. It features simple darts, a rouleau-loop back closure and in-seam pockets, plus subtle detail through some simple topstitching.

Get started

• Medium weight linen, 2m (1.5m wide) or 2.5m (1.1m wide) • Lightweight fusible interfacing, 20cm x 75cm • 2cm-wide bias tape • 1.5cm button

Sizes

8

Bust (cm)

Hip (cm)

Finished length (cm) 91

93

106

10

98

111

92.5

12

103

116

93.5

14

108

121

95

16

113

126

96.5

18

118

131

98

Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one pair Front neck facing: cut one Back neck facing: cut one pair Sleeve: cut two Pocket: cut two pairs Loop: cut one on the bias Note: iron interfacing to the reverse of the front and back neck facing pieces. See diagram online for economical fabric layout 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

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stitch an A-LINE DRESS Sewing the body pieces

Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING Visit sewmag.co.uk /templates to download and print the pattern, then transfer any markings. l When topstitching, extend the stitch length to 2.8mm then sew roughly 4mm from the seam line on the right side, using a contrast colour thread to accentuate it. l You’ll need a poking tool when pressing out the seams of the neck facing. l To make a rouleau loop, fold the strip in half lengthways.

Sew a 1cm seam, leaving a long thread at one end.

Tie this onto a blunt-ended needle and pass it into the tube and out of the other end. Ease the fabric through the tube gently to turn right sides out, then press. l Remember that a 1.5cm seam allowance is used throughout. l When using a fabric that frays like linen, don’t forget to finish any raw edges with a zigzag stitch and overcast foot, or an overlocker. l

Hanging your garment for 24 hours before you hem it can help ensure that it’s level

1

Pin the back pieces right sides together, then sew the centre -back seam up to the marker point indicated on the pattern.

Press the seam open.

2

3

5

6

Sew the darts on the front, then press down. Pin the pockets on the front and back as indicated.

Sew, press away from the bodice, then topstitch.

Pin the front and back right sides together, then stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seams towards the back of the dress, then topstitch down.

Adding the facings

4

Make the rouleau loop (see left), then tack to the back opening. Pin the facing pieces right sides together, stitch across the short edges, then press open.

Pin the facing around the neckline, right sides together, matching the seams at the shoulder. Tack, remove the pins, then sew around the curve.

Stitch down the short edges at the back opening, then clip across the corners and into the seam allowance around the curve.

Turn right sides out, then press.

Making the sleeves and finishing

7

8

9

10

11

12

Pin then tack the facing in place. Topstitch around the neckline, 4cm from the edge.

Sew a button opposite the rouleau loop at the back opening.

Pull the thread ends to ease the sleeve head into the armhole, right sides together. Pin, tack, then sew around.

Take care not to create puckers in the fabric.

Pin the front and back right sides together, then sew the side seams, continuing around the pocket with a 1cm allowance.

Press the side seams open.

Trim the armhole seam allowance to 1cm, then finish both raw edges together. Fold up and press a 4cm hem at the sleeve cuffs, then topstitch.

Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together. Stitch the underarm seam, then press open. Sew gathering stitches around the sleeve head, 1.5cm in.

Fold and press a 2cm hem around the bottom.

Sew bias tape to the allowance, right sides together, then turn to the inside. Topstitch around, 2cm up from the base.

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sew DRESSMAKING

sew

SHOPPER

************************

FOXES IN BLUE A heavyweight cotton-linen blend by Echino, featuring quirky geometric foxes. £18 per metre, thefabricfox.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

Dream

MACHINE

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SEW WITH CONFIDENCE With 50 built-in stitches including buttonholes on a pared-back selection panel, Singer’s Confidence 7465 does the hard work for you so you can focus on stitching the perfect garment. £249.99, singerco.co.uk

25/01/2018 16:37

sewing

SoS

Discover how to give your garments some extra pizazz with embroidery

Q

hat is the best way to transfer embroidery W designs onto garments before stitching?

I tried it on a jacket sleeve and it went wonky!

Rochelle Martin

Marna says

The best way to prevent any embroidery design becoming lopsided is to secure your garment in a hoop first to stop the fabric from moving. However, while it’s simple to do this with the front, back or a pocket, which are flat, it’s pretty difficult to fasten a sleeve or trouser leg in a hoop!

To help transfer a design onto a more awkward area of your garment, I recommend using a self-adhesive water soluble stabiliser.

Sulky offer a great version of this product called Sticky Fabri-Solvy, which you can find at amazon.co.uk. It comes as a printable A4 sheet and is very easy to use – simply size your design up and print out, then remove the backing and adhere it onto the section of the garment you want to embroider. Stitch the motif through the stabiliser then once you’ve finished, soak it in water to dissolve it, leaving your finished design behind. Just make sure the thread you’re using is colour fast so it doesn’t run.

Pink embroidered longline jacket, £49, dorothyperkins.com

Q

I embroidered a T-shirt AND IT looked great at first, but puckered after I washed IT. What did I do wrong?

Elena Rogers

Kate says FIND OUR EMBROIDERED BLOUSE PROJECT AT SEWMAG. CO.UK

I feel your pain – I have been in exactly the same position! I’ve got a few tips for you that will make a big difference next time. If the T-shirt is new, make sure to pre-wash it so that if there is any shrinkage, it will happen before you start embroidering. Also, make sure it’s a nice quality jersey – I’ve found that slightly thicker ones work best so look out for a garment with a high cotton content.

The more elastane the jersey has, the more it will stretch and be harder to work with. The key tip is to use a stabiliser – this is an iron-on product similar to a fusible interfacing that holds the fabric in place and stops it distorting. I’ve used a stabiliser especially for stretch fabrics and you can find it readily available online. My last tip is to not make the embroidery too dense on stretch fabrics, as the motif is more likely to distort if there are lots of stitches close together. Good luck!

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Embroidered jersey T-shirt, £29, cottontraders.com

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here to

help

MARNA LUNT

KATE UNDERDOWN

An award-winning textile artist and expert tutor, offering a wide range of courses in the UK and also online.

Trained in millinery, Kate co-founded stitchy social network The Fold Line to bring stitchers together!

embroiderycourse.co.uk

thefoldline.com

Q

I want to try embroidering onto clothing – which fabrics would work best and what should I avoid?

Amanda Ellis

Lisa says

When it comes to embroidering onto clothing, you’ll find it easiest to choose garments made from medium to heavy weight woven fabrics. Denim lends itself to embroidery really well, as does cotton duck, canvas and even corduroy. Think jeans, jackets, button-up shirts, dungaree dresses and backpacks. Collars can be a great place to start, as they are typically interfaced and so have that extra bit of structure built in.

You’ll want to avoid anything too lightweight or sheer, such as chiffon, rayon and light silks, as it will be very difficult to keep a good tension on these fabrics. The embroidered area is also likely to be quite heavy in comparison to the fabric, which means the garment could end up hanging strangely. I’d also avoid embroidering onto knits if you’re a beginner, as the stretch in these fabrics makes the shape of the design more prone to distorting.

LISA COMFORT

Expert seamstress, pattern designer, tutor and business owner, with a love of vintage-inspired garments!

top 3

sewoverit.co.uk

Embroidery Books

Why not check out the many fabulous embroidery books that are available?

From step-by-step guides to advice on more advanced techniques, you’re guaranteed to find something to suit.

Here are a few of the newest titles we can explore this year.

Nordic inspiration Find a stunning collection of projects to make in Scandinavian Needlecraft by Clare Youngs, £12.99, search press.com

Haute couture Be inspired by haute couture in Fashion Embroidery by Jessica Pile, £25, pavilion books.com

tip!

Embroidered ripped jeans, £22, Bardot top, £14, floral shoes, £18, floral bag, £12.50, tesco.com

Press your completed embroidery gently on the reverse with a pressing cloth under the iron to remove any hoop marks and wrinkles.

Take it further A guide for beginners and more experinced stitchers about Crewel Embroidery

by Shelagh Amor, £16.99, searchpress.com

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Petticoats came back in the 50s to help support a full skirt and create a more obvious hourglass shape. With Simplicity ‘s vintage 8456 you can join two gathered tiers to a fitted yoke, add an eyelet band, or turn it into a slip. £9.95, simplicitynewlook.com

<

Girdles and corsets were commonly used to help achieve the hourglass silhouette.

10 TIMES THE 50

s Inspired Your Style

T

…and you didn’t even realise!

Words by Jennifer Ward

he 1950s is one of the most memorable periods in fashion history. Ask anyone about the women of this period, and two visions spring to mind: the 50s housewife and the on-screen starlet. Whilst these influences can be seen in this decade, that’s not to discount that it was also abuzz with other advances for women... access to the same healthcare as men, some professions being granted equal pay (a conversation that still continues), more laws designed to safeguard women, and their accession into office-based roles. Glamorous and newly confident… the women of the 1950s made fascinating contributions to your wardrobe, and we thank them for each and every one!

<

1

Simplicity’s vintage ambassador Abi Dyson adapted the 8259 pattern to make an unlined version from cotton. View her Stitch-by-Stitch video at thecraftypinup.co.uk

3

HOURGLASS SILHOUETTES

Simplicity 8259

Hourglass figures have long been iconic and key in shaping the fashion industry. In the 50s, nipped waists that extended into full skirts created the illusion of bigger curves, whilst a buttoned-front accentuated this further by fitting the bosom snugly.

Simplicity 8259, £8.95 simplictynewlook.com

2

THE BIKINI

The first bikinis appeared after the Second World War. Strangely, they got their name from a site where several nuclear weapons were tested – Bikini Atoll – because of the ‘explosive’ effect they had on those who saw them.

BLUE JEANS

From the 1950s, Levi’s 501 jeans have been adopted by every sub-culture, from greasers and mods to rockers and hippies. Made popular by Hollywood stars such as Marilyn Monroe, they remain a popular choice still today. “The world’s first blue jean,” says Levi.

“Since we invented it, the 501 jean has been a blank canvas for self-expression. A cultural icon, always original.”

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5

SYNTHETIC FABRICS

In the quest for bigger waist-to-hip contrast came fuller skirts, which could be achieved through dramatic pleats.

Dior’s ‘New Look’ of the 50s championed the pleated skirt and nowadays, no Fashion Week catwalk is without these fashionable folds. Turn to p6 for your code to get 25% off ALL Sew Over It patterns, including the Elsie dress pictured here, originally £8.50/14.50 (PDF/paper), sewoverit.co.uk

6

UNDERWIRED BRAS Although designed in the 30s, the underwired bra only gained popularity during the 1950s - when metal became available for domestic use.

© Toni Frissell for Harper’s Bazaar: Lisa Fonssagrives in London, 1951

TAILORING

For all of the hourglass’ popularity, Dior’s later collections in the 50s counterbalanced this by offering up tailored pencil skirts that worked especially well for boyish silhouettes. The garment’s restriction on leg movement went hand-in-hand with women entering the workforce, as they started to take up office-based roles.

7

What began as practical utility clothing suitable for nurses, everyday wear and even sports, the ‘shirtwaist’ dress captured the essence of the nipped-in waist and full skirt that came to define the 50s.

Waist-length cardies finished off the outfits, much like we see in Call The Midwife – visit bbc.co.uk/iplayer to catch up on series 7, which started on 21st January!

Did you know?

If you’ve ever worn a tunic, sweater, peplum top, stilettos or pedal pushers – you’re more 50s than you knew!

Bra, £46, figleaves.com

9 8

THE SHIRT DRESS

POLKA DOTS

War-time garments were generally devoid of ‘unnecessary’ pattern so along with a host of other prints, polka dots boomed in the 50s – becoming popular on swimwear and making its way into haute couture.

“From Coco Chanel and Christian Dior to Marilyn Monroe and Minnie Mouse, polka dots have always been popular,” says Mark Creasey of fabric brand Girl Charlee.

“Whether it’s a small pin dot or a bold spot, polka prints will always be timeless.”

HOSIERY

Stockings were in common usage in the 50s, and are still admired for their glamorous appeal. Later in the decade women started sewing them to their briefs, paving the way for what we now know as tights! £25, apricot online.co.uk

Polka dot knits from £6.95 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk

£85, laredoute.co.uk

10 © Erik Liljeroth, Nordiska

DRAMATIC PLEATS

<

4

25% off!*

For a truly authentic vintage look, why not pay a visit to the Festival of Fabric at The Orwell Hotel in Felixstowe on 3rd March? You’ll find all kinds of crafty supplies and more, ranging from the 30s up to the 50s. festivaloffabric.co.uk

Fabric choices multiplied in this decade, especially when three new synthetics were created… acrylic, polyester and Spandex. These opened up a world of new possibilities, whilst also making materials more affordable – like rayon, a cheaper alternative to silk – and subject to a wider choice of prints.

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Walk straight into spring wearing the

EILIS DRESS

Get started

• Light to medium-weight fabric, 2.2m (1.5m wide) • Fusible interfacing • 30cm concealed zip • Four buttons • Single-sided fusible buckram, 2.5cm wide • Buckle

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

FABRIC

Front bodice: cut one pair Back bodice: cut one on the fold Front skirt: cut one on the fold Back skirt: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair Pocket back: cut two on the fold Pocket bag: cut two on the fold Belt: cut one 6cm x (waist + 24cm) strip Collar: cut two

BUCKRAM

Belt: cut one 2.5cm x (waist + 20cm) strip 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

stitch a SHIRT DRESS

1

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Cut all the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide and transfer all markings. Fuse interfacing to the collar and front bodice facing area as indicated. Stitch the darts into the front and back bodice pieces, then press towards the centre. Fold in and pin the tucks at either side of the front darts, then stitch them down along the waistline.

2

Neaten the shoulders and side seams on the front and back bodice pieces, pin right sides together, then sew the shoulder seams. Pin the collars right sides together, then stitch along the

This light and lovely shirt dress is great for layering now, then staying cool all summer long – especially if you opt for chambray, like Amanda Walker has here (don’t forget to neaten the raw edges). You’ll add shaping with simple darts and tucks, then master gathered-head sleeves and inserting an invisible zipper… we promise it will quickly become a favourite in your me-made wardrobe! outer edge. Trim the corners, then turn right sides out and press. Clip the curve around the neckline. Pin the collar to the neck, matching the centre-back points and the front dots, then stitch. Leave the collar pinned down.

whip up a BELT

3

Trim one end of the buckram strip into an arrow shape, fuse it to the wrong side of the fabric belt strip, then fold the edges of the fabric to the reverse and secure with fabric glue.

Topstitch around, 1cm from the edge. Attach a buckle to the straight end.

Fold the facing part of the front bodice to the right side, noting the fold line indicated on the pattern, so that the collar is sandwiched between the bodice outer and the facing. Pin, then stitch along the neckline as far as the shoulder seams on both sides of the front bodice, so a small step is formed in front of each end of the collar. Trim the corners, turn the facings to the inside, then press flat.

4

Turn under the short edge at the top of the facing, then stitch it to the shoulder seam.

Topstitch 1cm from the fold, up one front edge, around the back of the collar, then down the other side. Pin the front and back bodice at the side seams, right sides together, then stitch from the underarm to the zip notch on the left.

Sew two rows of 5mm-long gathering stitches between the notches on the head of the sleeves. Pin the underarm seams right sides together, sew, then press them open. Turn the sleeves out, then pull the gathering threads slightly to fit them into the bodice armholes, matching the notches.

Align the side and underarm seams, then pin and stitch in place.

5

6

Pin the pocket bags to the curved upper edge of the front skirt, right sides together, matching the notches, then sew with

a 1cm allowance. Clip the curve, turn the pouches to the wrong side of the skirt, press, then topstitch along the curved edges. Pin the back pocket pieces behind the bags, then sew around the curve and press. Fold the tucks on the front waistline, then pin the pockets onto the skirt and stitch along the top and side.

7

Pin the skirt pieces right sides together, then stitch the side seams, only sewing as far up as the zipper notch on the left-hand

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seam. Press the seams open. Pin the skirt to the bodice at the waistline, right sides together, matching the side seams and the centre-back and front, then stitch.

Insert the invisible zipper into the left-hand side seam. Fold and press a 3cm hem at the skirt base and sleeve cuffs, then topstitch in place. Make four buttonholes on the right side of the front bodice, then stitch buttons on the left.

8

sew DRESSMAKING

sew

Core skill:

free pattern download

INVISIBLE ZIPPER

sewmag.co.uk /templates

An invisible zipper foot is worth buying to ensure a professional finish. Press the seam allowance, then open the zip and place face-down on the right side of the fabric, matching the teeth to the fold line. You might like to tack the tape in place, then stitch along the tape close to the zipper teeth. From the right side, it should look like a subtle seam line.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

COOL AS YOU PLEASE Robert Kaufman cotton chambray dots in royal blue, ÂŁ15.80 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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Use a kitchen tea towel for our

UPCYCLED APRON

If you ever find yourself in the distressing scenario where your fabric stash has been – *sharp inhale* – totally depleted, fear not. Household items like the classic linen tea towel can be utilised and transformed, much like it has here into a traditional 50s apron. Featuring pleats at the waist and a handy pocket, you can also add D-rings to hold a cloth and keep it to hand.

stitch a TEA TOWEL APRON Get started

• Tea towel or fabric, 50cm x 76cm • White herringbone tape, 2m (4cm wide) • 4cm D-rings, two (optional)

Cutting guide

D-ring tab: cut one 15cm length from herringbone tape Pocket: cut one 18cm x 23cm piece from main fabric * * See step 2

1

Cut the D-ring tab according to the cutting guide. Fold it through two D-rings, aligning the raw ends. Zigzag stitch back and forth from the folded end to encase the rings. You may have to use a zipper foot for this depending on the width of your standard foot and the diameter of the D-rings.

2

Lay the tea towel or fabric out in front of you, wrong side facing up and landscape view.

Mark 58cm from the left-hand edge, draw a vertical line and cut along it.

Cut the pocket piece from the rest.

On the main piece, fold a double 1cm hem at the raw right-hand edge and press. Pin, tack, then stitch.

get the

1cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

CUTTING OUT Consider what part of the fabric you want on show when cutting out.

3

Fold a double 1cm hem at the top edge of the pocket piece, then press. Pin, tack and stitch. Fold the three raw edges in by 1cm and press. Pin the pocket to the front of the apron, 4.5cm in from the righthand edge and 12cm from the bottom.

book

4

Topstitch the pocket, backtacking at the top corners to strengthen. Find the topcentre, measure 14cm out from this point on either side, then mark five more points 3cm apart. Make three pleats on each side, with their folds facing away from the centre. Pin, tack, then stitch to hold the pleats.

5

Press the herringbone tape in half lengthwise. Match its centre to the apron top, fold over to encase it then pin along, inserting the D-ring tab 7cm from the left edge. Fold each raw edge in by 1cm. Stitch down one end of the tape tie, along the bottom edge, along the tape and up the other end.

Find more great projects in Take a Tea Towel by Jemima Schlee. £12.99, thegmcgroup.com

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sew DRESSMAKING

Dream

MACHINE

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SOLID CHOICE The Life 157 is compact enough for taking to classes yet still sturdy enough for some serious sewing, making it a good choice for beginners.

This pretty model can handle fabrics from sheers and cotton lawns to knits and heavyweights. ÂŁ199, gursewingmachines.com

26/01/2018 09:35

SEW MARCH 2018 master_SEW 26/01/2018 14:52 Page 52

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• VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL •

your essential guide to

VINTAGE BE INSPIRED BY THE PAST!

Make these pretty jar wraps on p58!

Fashions may be constantly evolving, but many of the newest styles often have their roots in vintage designs. If you feel nostalgic for eras such as the 50s or earlier, the following pages offer five projects that you’ll love recreating... try a beautiful patchwork blanket made up from pretty handkerchiefs, then transform old jam jars into lovely vases through rustic hessian wraps. After, whip up special accessories like our embroidered collar, stylish headband and elegant evening bags. To recreate a striking vintage look, experiment with retro inspired fabrics then top it off with authentic buttons and trims.

Share your makes with us on social media @sewHQ

!

Essential guide to vintagev2.indd 2

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• VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL •

about the size of Don’t worry too much e to fill all of the the hankies. Use som d smaller ones an s 36cm cotton square und them aro r rde bo to have a

together along one long edge.

Attach the remaining rows in this way.

Pin the patchwork panel and backing fabric right sides together, ensuring the edges are aligned. If adding wadding, lay this down first, followed by the patchwork faceup, then the backing fabric facedown. Sew all around, leaving a 15cm gap.

Trim the seam allowance if required. Turn the throw right sides out through the opening, fold in the raw edges, slip stitch the gap closed, then press. Sew a line of stitching along the horizontal seams, where each row of squares joins the next,

Sew a hankie throw

Get started • 12 handkerchiefs • Plain cotton • Backing fabric, 104cm x 138cm • Thin wadding, 104cm x 138cm (optional)

Cutting guide

Quilt panels: cut twelve 36cm squares from plain cotton 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

3

1

Press all of the hankies flat, then cut out the plain panels according to the cutting guide. Pin a hankie centrally onto a cotton square.

Stitch all around the hankie, close to the edge, then repeat for the other ones.

Lay out the squares in a 3 x 4 arrangement. Pin the first two squares in the first row right sides together, and sew down one edge. Attach the third square in the row in the same way, then repeat for the other three rows. Pin and sew the first and second rows right sides

4

2

book Find more projects in A Year in Crafts by Clare Youngs. £14.99, rylandpeters.com

25/01/2018 17:21

!

Essential guide to vintagev2.indd 3

Get the

!

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then repeat down the vertical seams to form a grid of overstitching that joins the three layers together. Press.

• VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL •

Get started

sew

• White cotton • Lightweight fusible interfacing • Embroidery thread: pink, dark pink, yellow, pale green, lime green, light blue, dark blue, dark grey • Embroidery hoop, 5”diameter • One 1cm shanked button

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Cutting guide

Collar: cut one on the fold from interfacing

5mm seam allowance used throughout.

Embroider a Peter Pan collar

1

Download and print the collar template at sewmag.co.uk/ templates, then cut it according to the cutting guide. Iron interfacing to the wrong side of white cotton, leaving 5cm around the edges, but don’t cut around the collar outline yet.

Lightly trace the outlines of the dog and flower motifs in pencil onto both front edges of the collar, mirroring them to create a symmetrical design. Make sure the sketch is within the boundaries of the interfacing.

Secure the fabric in an embroidery hoop. Using two strands of thread, sew around the motifs using backstitch for the stems, grass and Scottie dogs, lazy daisy stitch for the leaves and flowers, and French knots for the dogs’ facial features and flower centres.

Press the finished embroidery then pin face-down onto a second square of white cotton. Sew around the edges of the interfacing, leaving a 10cm gap at the back. Trim away the excess cotton, leaving a 5mm seam allowance around the collar.

Clip the curves and corners before turning right sides out.

Press to flatten the seams. Turn under the raw edges and slip stitch the gap closed.

Loosely sew a shanked button to one side of the collar and bind around the stitching with half hitches to create a post (see panel, right).

Sew several loose loops on the opposite side, large enough for the button to slip through, then reinforce with blanket stitch.

2 3

4

5 !

Essential guide to vintagev2.indd 4

Half hitches

Form a loop around the stitching, then pass the needle around the thread end and through the loop created. Repeat as needed, then tie off and trim.

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• VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL •

Get started • Cotton satin, 60cm x 70cm (small bag) • Chambray, 70cm x 90cm (large bag) • Coordinating lining • Lightweight quilt wadding • Curved purse frame, 9cm x 13cm • Fabric glue

Sizes Small bag: 20cm x 24cm Large bag: 27cm x 33cm

Cutting Guide Bag front/back: cut two pieces each on the fold from fabric, lining and wadding Bow (optional): cut one 10cm x 28cm rectangle (small bag) or one 10cm x 38.5cm rectangle (large bag), then one 5cm x 7cm rectangle and one 13cm x 26cm rectangle from fabric

Stitch a clip bag

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide, adding a 1cm seam allowance all around, then transfer any markings.

Pin the outer fabric right side up onto wadding. Trim the wadding to size. If adding a bow, fold the longest rectangle in half lengthways, right sides together, then stitch along the long raw edge. Turn right sides out and flatten so the seam sits along the middle of the tube. Press lightly, then pin it flat across the middle of an outer piece.

2

3 4

6

5

7

Pin a lining piece to an outer, right sides together. Stitch around the top of the bag from dot to dot, then clip the curve. Repeat for the other pieces.

Flip the lining up, then pin the lower edges of the two outer pieces right sides together. Stitch from dot to dot then clip the curves. Fold the bag tops down so you can stitch the linings in the same way, leaving an 8cm gap along the bottom edge.

Turn the bag out through the gap and check the fit of the bag top inside the channels of the handbag frame before sewing up the gap. Apply textile glue generously into the channel of one side of the

handbag frame, push the centreedge of one top centrally into the glued channel then leave to dry. Repeat for the other bag top and frame.

To complete the bow, fold the medium rectangle in half and sew as before. Turn out, flatten and press. Sew the ends together to form a ring and flatten so the seam sits in the centre. Use running stitch to gather the centre and create a bow.

Fold the smallest rectangle in half and stitch as before.

Turn out, flatten, fold in the raw ends and wrap around the centre of the bow, fastening at the back. Stitch to the centre of the band.

1cm seam allowance used throughout.

For added sparkle, secure a vintage crystal brooch or button to the centre of the bow

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

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• VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL •

Get started • Dotty cotton, 32cm • 2.5cm wide flat elastic

Sizes Custom-sized

Cutting guide Elastic: cut one length slightly shorter than head circumference Band: cut one (measure elastic stretched to fullest + 4cm) x 9cm strip Bow: cut one 20cm x 80cm rectangle from cotton 5mm seam allowance used throughout.

Make a retro headband

1 2

Cut the pieces according to the cutting guide. Fold the band piece in half lengthways, right sides together, and sew down the long raw edge to make a tube.

Turn the tube right sides out and thread the elastic through it. Gather the fabric so the ends of the elastic are accessible. Overlap these by 1cm and sew together. Fold in the raw ends at each end of the fabric tube and slip stitch together.

Fold the bow piece in half lengthways, right sides together, and sew down the long raw edge to make a tube. Turn right sides out, flatten so the seam is in the centre, and press. Turn in the raw ends and slip stitch closed.

Tie a loose knot in the centre of the tube. Concertina-fold the fabric length either side of the knot to make one small and one large loop. Fasten the loops with a small stitch before tucking the end of the tube inside the knot and securing the bow with more small stitches inside the knot. Stitch the underside of the knot to the join on the elasticated band, and press.

3

sew

SHOPPER

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4

MINT DOT POLY COTTON LAWN Try this pretty fabric to make your headband. £3.50 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com

For a neater finish, ensure that the long seam of the headband sits down the centre of the elastic

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• VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL • VINTAGE SPECIAL •

Get started • Jam jars • Hessian • Large buttons • Ribbon and lace trim

Cutting Guide Small wrap: cut one 6.5cm x 28cm hessian strip Large wrap: cut one 9cm x 28cm hessian strip Flower: cut one 2.5cm x 25.5cm hessian strip

Sizes Small wrap: 6.5cm x 28cm Large wrap: 9cm x 28cm

Create a ribbon wrap

Make a flower version

Cut out the large wrap piece according to the cutting guide. Gently pull out a group of eight lengthwise strands, one at a time, at a point where you want to weave ribbon or lace through – you may find this easier with tweezers.

Thread your ribbon or lace onto a large-eyed needle and weave it through the hessian, going over and under four strands at a time. Tie a bow from 20.5cm of ribbon and sew it to the front. Fray the long edges of the wrap a little.

Cut out the small wrap and flower according to the cutting guide.

Fray one long edge of the flower strip, then hand sew a running stitch along the long unfrayed edge. Pull the thread to gather into a ring, then tie off. Secure a button to the centre, then sew the flower onto the small wrap and fray the long edges as for the ribbon wrap.

1

2

Keep it together Use a liquid seam sealant such as Fray Check to prevent the hessian edges unravelling too much

Get the

book Discover more lovely makes in Half Yard Vintage by Debbie Shore. £9.99, searchpress.com

ce your wraps When completed, pla ure with around the jars and sec e glu fabric

Essential guide to vintagev2.indd 7

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25/01/2018 17:23

sew PEOPLE My log cabin variation quilt is coming along nicely. Scrap quilts are the best!

delightfull.eu

I am LOVING the new Bernina 570QE. bernina.com

There’s not long left to enter Dressmaker of the Year – visit makeittoday.co.uk /dressmakeroftheyear Eco-friendly paints from £2.29, lakelandpaints.co.uk

At home with...

© Photographed by Rachel Whiting.

STUART HILLARD As the evenings get lighter I’m filled with the joys of spring!

This time of the year is when my annual deep clean tends to occur… it’s become somewhat of a tradition now!

Yes, in these quieter months leading up to spring I have always concentrated on the house, garage, sheds and garden – decluttering and beavering away as the evenings steadily get lighter. I’m always filled with an unusual energy and vigour during these activities. I think it’s a combination of the first rays of proper sun highlighting a winter’s worth of accumulated dust (which is hastily swept away!), garden bulbs pushing through lawns that are in desperate need of a mow, and a deep longing to freshen and renew all that’s around me. It’s been a hard, long and surprisingly chilly winter and so I’m embracing all of the joys of spring!

I am definitely someone who’s of the listwriting variety. It gives me an enormous sense of satisfaction to tick items off and I try really hard not to add to a list once I’ve begun… otherwise I find things tend to spiral into madness.

THE BIG SPRING CLEAN It might not sound like the most thrilling of agendas but this month, I’m strangely looking forward to deep cleaning my oven, getting the curtains and carpets professionally cleaned, and touching up my paintwork. I always keep leftover paint

for this purpose, stored upside down to avoid the mother of all skins forming on the top! I’m a massive fan of bicarbonate of soda for cleaning and freshening… you’ll always find a halved lemon in my fridge (the other half goes in gin, in case you were wondering!) which I scoop out and fill with bicarb.

It absorbs any odours in the fridge and keeps things smelling fresh. I’ll also use bicarb or toothpaste on a toothbrush to give tiles a really good scrub and remove any stains. This year I’m also attempting a spring clean of my life… that involves cancelling direct debits for gym memberships I don’t use, plus whittling down the work and social engagements to the ones I really want to do. These will help me make time to see friends and visit special places, plus allow me to decide on some new challenges to keep things fresh and exciting for 2018.

“As a child knitting, sewing, weaving and spinning was mindfulness – 40 years before it was invented!”

MY HAPPY PLACE Talking of fresh and exciting... I’ve just finished judging the Craft Business Awards, which was a massive honour and a treat. I’ve been involved in the craft industry for almost 20 years now and have always taken a very keen interest in changes,

Thank you so much to Craft Business magazine who named me one of 2017’s Game Changers! innovation, and up-and-coming trends. One of the greatest joys for me whilst judging these awards was to see the number of crafting kits, books and resources available for children. Learning to knit, sew, weave and spin as a child made such a difference in my life then and still does now… it was mindfulness 40 years before it was invented, and these crafts helped me to focus and relax when times were tough or if I had exams to revise for. I still love nothing more than casting on some socks or making a scrappy quilt or cushion – it’s food for my soul!

Talking of judging, don’t forget to submit photos of your handmade garments into Dressmaker of the Year, which closes on 9th March. I can’t wait to join my fellow judges and see your entries.

This month I am loving the all-new Bernina 570QE sewing machine – having undergone a complete redesign, this sleek new model has extra throat space for larger projects but fits the average sewing space beautifully. Creating unique items with fabric, yarn and thread is still my happy place (and specifically, quilting) so regardless of whether my home gets deep cleaned this spring, I know that in amongst the sparkle and crafty clutter is my favourite spot in the whole world.

Stuart x

You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 674 or visit stuarthillard.com 59

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e m & m Mu

Psst... don’t forget Mother’s Day!

11th March

S

ome of my favourite childhood memories revolve around sewing. Standing on a chair whilst my Mum pinned trousers to be hemmed, competing with my sisters to see who could rock the foot pedal of our grandmother’s treadle sewing table the fastest, and then proudly threading needles because I had ‘the knack for it’ ... only now realising that I was duped. I’ll always be grateful that my Mum taught me to sew; not only did she equip me with a massively useful set of skills, but the fact that we shared it together enriches the experience I have of sewing now.

In recent years, the tradition of passing on sewing skills from parent to child has unfortunately dwindled, and whilst we’ve been able to turn to books, workshops and the Internet as surrogates, they lack the personal touch that helps so much in

NOW I HAVE A SEWING BUSINESS Julia Claridge, Sew designer and owner of Bobbins and Buttons bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk My Grandmother taught my Mum to sew, who then taught me to use a hand-wheel machine when I was six years old. Now it’s me who is teaching my own children, and last year my own two – aged four and six – made their first garments! I really appreciate the heritage value of sewing and believe that passing on a skill like this creates a special and unique link between generations.

“I think my business is the ultimate compliment to my amazing mother.”

I remember very early on my Mum being on standby to help with the tricky bits... although I think at the time I would claim credit for the entire garment. I loved these times with my Mum, I was so inspired and was always really proud of myself for making something! My Mum made almost all of her own clothes and, although she enjoyed sewing, it was more to do with being thrifty.

As I started going to discos and parties, Mum was challenged with figuring out how to

Here’s a sneak peek of George, a lovely snuggly hoody for kids that will be in my shop soon.

make whatever was the latest trend, and it soon became a fun activity that we shared together.

I gained a deeper appreciation of this when I became a mother myself. Almost instantly I was catapulted into a whole new sewing world! When my little boy came along I felt challenged to find special things to make for him, which was the inspiration and motivation for starting my own sewing business. As they grow up, new pattern ideas constantly seem to unfold in front of me… almost as if they were sent from a star above. I think my business is the ultimate compliment to my amazing mother.

A shining star indeed.

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Another upcoming pattern…

Dorothy is a versatile dress that would work for a summer’s day or to sparkle at a party.

Do you

have We’d a sewing st Email love to hear ory to shar e? editor f ial@s rom you! ewma g.co.u k

Sewing is the best family heirloom… pass it on!

Words by Emma Thompson transforming sewing from a hobby to a passion. To ensure that the heritage values of sewing – the craftsmanship, appreciation of fabric and awareness of how it came to be – remain at the very heart of what we do, take matters into your own hands by sharing it with the next generation.

Teaching your child (or niece, nephew, cousin, or neighbour!) how to sew provides them with more than a just pastime. It also increases dopamine – the chemical in your brain that makes you happy – improves hand-eye coordination and problem-solving abilities, and provides loads of other physical and mental benefits. In fact, the earlier you introduce them to your sewing room the better – your biscuit tin of bright buttons is a treasure trove of creativity just waiting to be discovered!

I STILL NEED MY MUM’S HELP! Kelly-Lou Preece, Sew reader and blogger at sewandstylelou. wordpress.com When I was younger, my Mum made the majority of my clothing, but I didn’t show much interest – and she was very protective of her machine. It wasn’t until I was in secondary school that I learned the basics, but it didn’t light a fire in me. I went through my twenties with only a vague desire to make my own

One of the first tops I eve r made for my mum – I love this multico loured number!

I made Simplicity 1108, which came free with Sew, with crepe from Sew Over It and a lot of help from my mum!

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clothes, until eventually a friend offered to help me make a pattern as her birthday present to me. An Amazing Fit pencil skirt probably wasn’t the most sensible choice for a first time, but we persevered... and I was hooked!

“Even fairly recently, I phoned my Mum up in tears because I’d tied myself in knots trying to sew French seams.”

Since I caught the sewing bug, Mum has stepped in to help me with more complex projects. Even fairly recently, I phoned her up in tears because I’d tied myself in knots trying to sew French seams. She got straight in her car and came over to sort me out. Even though I’m an adult, I still need her help! Having a shared interest with her is so special, I only wish I’d started younger. The range of techniques Mum knows astounds me – I’m going to ask her to teach me how to make tailor’s tacks next as I think it’s important not to lose the more traditional techniques. For me, that’s a big part of why we should pass on sewing from one generation to the next.

Mum doesn’t have a lot of time to sew nowadays (yet managed to make an amazing flapper dress recently) so after years of her making my clothes, I’m returning the favour.

I’ve made a few tops and I’m currently working on a vintage-style dress – I remember the joy I felt when Mum presented me with a party dress when I was six years old, and now I’m making one for her! Not only is it so nice to give my Mum hand-sewn clothes that are full of love, but I treasure the quality time I spend with her too, all thanks to our shared love of sewing.

Get started • Leather or pleather • Two button studs, 5mm (wallet) or 7mm (clutch) • Painter’s tape • Leather paint • Stencil brush • Leather sealer (optional)

Sizes Wallet: 6.5cm x 10.5cm Clutch: 11.5cm x 18.5cm Bookmark: 4.5cm x 20cm

Make envelope pouches

ADD A MONOGRAM TO

pleather clutches & bookmark Using up fabric scraps to create stylish gifts doesn’t have to take a lot of time… or effort! These no-sew envelopes can be scaled up or down from a tiny coin purse to an oversized clutch – just reinforce the back panel if needed. Designer Christine Schmidt has used specialist paint for her monograms, but nail polish would work too. Don’t forget to turn any leftovers into an adorable bookmark!

sew

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates then cut one pouch from leather. Use a leather punch or craft knife to make four holes as indicated on the template.

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

2

Lay two parallel strips of painter’s tape 2.5cm apart centrally on the right side of the leather. Draw initials on another strip of tape, cut out, then stick above the hole on the curved piece, leaving 3mm free on either side.

3

Stipple a thin layer of paint inside the parallel lines, then leave to dry. Multiple thinner coats are better than heavy ones.

Repeat if necessary, then coat with leather sealer if desired.

Craft a bookmark

4

When completely dry, fold the side flaps in and install one button stud through the holes. Repeat with the second stud in the bottom and top flaps. Use 5mm studs for the wallet and 7mm ones for the clutch.

Snip a fishtail into one end of a 4.5cm x 20cm strip of leather, position a circular template at the top, then paint over the bookmark as for the pouches.

Remove the circle template, then use a toothpick to paint an initial. Punch a hole centrally 1.3cm from the top, thread through a 3mm x 20.5cm strip of leather, folded in half, then tie.

Get the

book

Find customisation projects galore in Make It Yours

by Christine Schmidt, £18.99, penguinrandomhouse.com

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I love faux leather - these days, there isn’t much difference in quality between that and the real stuff

Great news!

Most home sewing machines can cope with at least lightweight leather

sew LEARN Recently, my fabric stash has grown so much that I can’t shut the cupboard doors. I’ve been clearing, tidying, folding and arranging but they still don’t fit, so I’ll just have to get more storage! In my sorting, I came across a length of faux leather - this fabric creates beautiful clothes, bags and accessories, and is much easier to work with than many think... no need to finish raw edges! Here are a few general rules to stick to, whether you’re using it as an accent or for an entire project.

SEWING LEATHER Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL

THE RIGHT NEEDLE Leather needles have angled points that create a small slit, allowing thread to pass through without too much friction. Sewing leather generally leaves permanent holes, so take extra care to avoid unpicking! If stitching leather to another fabric that may snag, opt for a new universal needle.

EASY DOES IT If you’re using a pattern, make sure that you transfer any markings onto the wrong side of the fabric. When cutting, snip the pieces on a single layer using a rotary cutter, rather than on the fold. Be sure to avoid ironing where possible but if necessary, use a pressing cloth and work

GET STITCHING Polyester thread is a good choice as it is strong and won’t damage as easily as cotton.

Remember to match it to the fabric weight, so opt for thicker threads when sewing leathers and use a longer stitch on your machine - this will help to prevent tearing the fabric.

UNDER CONTROL Even if you’re only pinning inside the seam allowance, it can be very difficult to push through multiple layers of leather, so fabric clips are a must-have.

For larger areas that can’t be clipped, use pattern weights - or any heavy flat objects you have to hand.

TAKE A WALK The rubbery surface can ‘stick’ to standard presser feet and stop your project from moving. Snap on a roller or non-stick foot, or for specialist ones like the zipper foot, add a strip of masking tape to the bottom making sure you create a hole for the needle to pass through.

STICK WITH IT Fabric glue sticks come in useful for flattening seam allowances and reducing bulk. Simply run it underneath, then finger press or use a roller to get that professional finish. Avoid stitching over glued areas, as this can clog up or break your needle.

For more great tips from Debbie, visit debbieshore.tv 63

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BOTANICAL BEAUTY

Ricardo 2, The English Garden quilting collection by Liberty, £18 per metre, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

Woven Nature with Green Leaves, £7.75 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

If dainty florals aren’t to your taste but you’d still like to bring a natural theme into your home, why not try bringing plants and insect motifs together in an on-trend botanical scheme? Multiple shades of green are perfect for spring, paired with pops of light blue, lilac and pink. Even heavier weight fabrics tend to be given a lighter feel through this combination of motifs and colours.

JOSEPHINE HAGGER, STOFF & STIL

LAUREN GUTHRIE, GUTHRIE & GHANI

Woven dark rose with big leaves/flower, £11.50 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

Plante Aurora, Esoterra collection by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics, £15 per metre, thecraftymastermind.co.uk

“This thick cotton has a lovely woven texture and the green brush stroke pattern looks very spring-like against a cream background.

It’s great for curtains, being sturdy while still having some drape, but also works for cushions and seat pads.”

“Botanicals is a trend I’m really enjoying right now and the lovely, delicate florals in this print would look great next to the more vibrant prints from the Liberty Lifestyle range – especially in a patchwork cushion to brighten up a comfy chair.”

MELISSA HARRISON, CRAFTY MASTERMIND

MELISSA HYLAND, SEW DEPUTY EDITOR

“This beautiful botanical print by Art Gallery Fabrics echoes a time long, long ago when dinosaurs roamed the earth. The natural theme is so on-trend this year and the fabric would be brilliant for cushions, quilts and other amazing projects.”

“The bold pattern on this woven cotton mix really stands out – it’s sure to bring a touch of nature into your home! Because the motifs are quite large, it would work particularly well for larger home decor projects such as cushion covers and curtains.”

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sew home

Build on the botanical theme with indoor plants

Create a simple makeover with new covers and throws

Look for natural fabrics such as cottons

marksandspencer.com

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Caroline Smith, owner of Sew La-Di-Da, brings together a passion for sewing by the sea with a determination to provide vintage patterns and frocks for all ages and sizes.

Creating ‘vintage’ patterns cut to modern sizes, Caroline and her team have designed and produced a range of retro style dress designs that not only flatter the modern body, but are suitable for sewing novices.

SUBSCRIBER REWARDS

Enjoy regular member benefits as part of your subscription: • Exclusive offers • High-value competitions • Craft Store discounts • Star subscriber – coming soon...

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Embellish the pleats!

SIZES O SMALL T LARGE

SWEETHEART embodies the true meanings of elegance – stylish, graceful and ingeniously simple! This fabulous sleeved dress gives you a choice of two necklines, sweetheart or square, and is extremely easy to sew. She enhances your waist and celebrates your curves, with a simple flared skirt and a three-quarter length sleeve.

ROSE is an iconic 1950s style frock; this best-selling pattern is designed to enhance your curves, with a fit-and-flare style which discreetly skims over any sensitive areas and praises your best bits!

The inverted pleats flatter all ages and is a great opportunity for you to embellish your own design.

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FOUR WAYS WITH

ART GALLERY FABRICS Get started • Cotton: assorted prints, plain white • Denim • Felt: blue, pink, brown, grey • Lightweight wadding • Fusible interfacing • Toy stuffing • Embroidery thread: dark pink, pale pink, brown, grey • 5mm-wide ribbon • Dark pink ricrac • 3cm-wide lace trim • Buttons: four white 5mm, three pink 5mm, two white 9mm, two white 2cm • Thick card • 45cm cushion pad • Wire coat hanger

Dollhouse

We love the beautiful new Dollhouse collection from Art Gallery Fabrics, which features an assortment of dainty floral prints, butterflies and geometric designs in soft shades of pink, mauve and grey. Sew ’s Corinne Bradd has used this to create some suitably feminine projects with the range, including a pretty cushion, hexagon coasters, hanging storage and a sweet vintage-style doll – complete with her own wardrobe!

sew

free template download

5mm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Make hexie coasters Download our hexagon templates at sewmag.co.uk/templates and cut each one from thick card and lightweight wadding. Glue the wadding to the card. Cut squares 3cm wider from printed cotton and place a hexagon centrally on the reverse, wadding side down. Affix doublesided tape to the edges. Fold the fabric up over the sides, starting with the top and bottom, then opposite sides, mitring the corners as you go.

To find your nearest Art Gallery Fabrics stockist, visit hantex.co.uk/agf 69

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sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Stitch a storage hanger

Sew a butterfly cushion

Size: 19cm x 29cm (excl. ties)

Size: 42cm square

1

Cut a 30cm x 40cm rectangle each from denim and blue felt. Pin these together with the denim facing outwards. Cut one 25xm x 30cm and one 23cm x 30cm panel each from denim, and one 10cm x 30cm, 15cm x 30cm, and one 19cm x 30cm panel each from different cotton prints. Hem one long edge of the denim and cut white cotton linings to match the size of each printed cotton piece.

Sew the linings to the tops of the cotton panels, right sides together. Turn right sides out, press, then topstitch the seam. Topstitch lace trim across some of the pockets. Arrange the pockets along the denim panel, placing the deepest one 8cm down from the top and topstitching across the bottom, adding the next deepest pocket 16cm from the top and topstitching across the bottom.

Layer the last two pockets together, lining up their bottom edges. Topstitch down the shorter piece to divide it into three pockets before placing them onto the bottom of the denim backing. Topstitch in

2

3

1

Download and print the butterfly template at sewmag. co.uk/templates.

Cut nine 6cm x 27cm strips of patterned cotton. Join them right sides together along the long edges to make a 27cm x 46cm panel. Press all the seams to one side.

Cut a 14cm x 46cm strip of pale fabric and a darker 6cm x 46cm strip. Sew these right sides together along the long edge before stitching to the long side of the stripey panel to make a 46cm square piece.

Press the patchwork and pin it to a square of lightweight wadding.

Use three strands of dark pink embroidery thread to quilt along the seams using a small running stitch.

Trace two butterfly motifs onto fusible interfacing and iron it onto the

place and around the remaining edges of the panel.

Join several 3cm-wide strips of printed cotton end-to-end to make a 1.5m long strip. Use this to bind the edges of the storage hanger, stitching it to the front, right sides together, and mitring the corners. Fold the fabric to the back, turn under 5mm of the raw edge and slip stitch to the felt backing.

Cut two 3cm x 30cm strips of printed cotton, fold each in half lengthways, right sides together, and stitch down the long edge. Turn right sides out and press, fold in the raw ends and slip stitch closed. Fold the strips in half and sew the crease to the edge of the top binding, 1cm in from each side so the storage can be tied to a coat hanger.

Stitch a 2cm button to the top of a pocket, then knot a loop of ribbon and tie a neat bow. Place the loop over the button and stitch the bow to the pocket or backing above it.

Alternatively, divide a pocket in two by stitching a button through to the pocket behind.

4

You can appliquĂŠ the se butterfly motifs onto all kinds of other projects!

2

5

3

6

4

reverse of pink fabric. Cut out, pin to the wide stripe of the panel and sew in place with running stitch.

Cut two 34cm x 46cm pieces of plain white cotton. Hem one long edge on each rectangle by 1cm and lay onto the patchwork, right sides together, with the hemmed edges overlapping. Pin and stitch all around the panel, turn right sides out through the resulting envelope back, then insert a 45cm cushion pad.

5

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sew kids Thanks to Elaine Ma rtin for helping us name ou r mascot. We hope yo u enjoy your prize – a set of Madeira threa ds!

Help us with suggestio ns for next month’s toy at facebook.com /sewhq

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

““If giving this toy to a young child, embroider the eyes instead” Corinne Bradd, sew designer

Create lovely Loubeelou Size: 15cm x 40cm

STITCH THE DOLL

1

Download and print the doll templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut two body pieces from pink felt and the hair pieces from brown felt. Pin the hair to the back and front of the head and topstitch the inner edges. Embroider a face with 9mm button eyes on the front of the head before pinning the two doll pieces wrong sides together.

Use two strands of pale pink embroidery thread to sew around the doll’s body with small running stitch, starting at the top of the neck and leaving the head unstitched. Fill with toy stuffing after sewing each limb, then stuff the body once you reach the top of the neck again.

Stitch around the head with thread to match the hair and stuff before closing the gap.

2

MAKE A PAIR OF SHOES Cut two pieces for each shoe from grey felt and sew running stitch from the top back round to one third of the way up the front. Fold the top front corners down and secure with a 5mm

button either side. Stitch a lace-up effect across the open front with grey embroidery thread and tie into a bow before trimming the ends.

Repeat for the second shoe.

SEW SOME BLOOMERS Cut two pants pieces from printed cotton and sew right sides together up the sides. Turn up the bottom of the legs by 6mm and hem. Stitch the inside leg seams and turn right sides out. Turn down the top of the pants by 1cm and hem. Use six strands of dark pink embroidery thread and a tapestry needle to pass a drawstring through the top hem, starting at the front seam. Tighten the thread as necessary around the doll’s waist and tie in a neat bow.

Slip stitch the bottom seam closed, securing the braid.

WHIP UP A DRESS

1

For the dress, make a reversible vest as before but don’t stitch the bottom edge.

Cut 14cm x 44cm of contrasting cotton, fold it in half right sides together and stitch up the side seam, stopping 2cm from the top.

Turn right sides out and hem the bottom of the skirt. Turn in the raw edges of the top of the seam and glue down before gathering the top of the skirt to roughly 21cm circumference.

Pin and stitch the gathered edge of the skirt to the outer layer of the dress top, right sides together. Hem the bottom

2

edge of the vest lining and slip stitch over the gathered seam to neaten. Add ricrac braid around the waistband. Cut a 1.5cm x 20cm cotton print strip, fold lengthwise and sew a gathering stitch along the long raw edge. Pull the thread tight and secure to make a flower, then stitch it to one side of the waistband. Add a snap fastener to the back of the dress neckline and decorate the shoulders with tiny buttons.

Cut a 3cm x 11cm strip of printed cotton, fold in half right sides together and stitch all around, leaving a gap.

Turn right sides out, sew the gap closed, then fold into a hair bow.

Stitch to one side of the hair with a 5mm button in the middle.

3

CREATE A VEST Cut the vest pieces from two cotton prints and sew each set right sides together along the side seams. Place the two sets right sides together and stitch all around the edges, leaving the bottom edge open. Clip the curves and turn right sides out.

Fold in the tops of the arm straps and slip stitch together. Fold up 5mm along both bottom edges and pin ricrac between the layers.

Reversible top 71

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Mitzu duck egg wallpaper, £15 per roll, wilko.com

the

FABRIC EDIT From big blooms to dainty prints, there’s nothing like a floral collection to make it feel like spring is on its way.

The Katie Jane range by Makower UK offers stitchers a wide variety of floral patterns in bold red, soft pink, fresh green and turquoise. Combine two or more to make striking patchwork quilts, cushions covers and much more.

Multi Floral Turquoise

Daisy flask, £12, daisypark.co.uk

Daisy Red

Toile Red

English Rose shopping bag, £2.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

Spring To Life rectangular plate in green, £13, amara.com

Truly Chintz napkins, £3.99 per pack, talkingtables.co.uk

Tonal Floral Turquoise

Green pansies large Japanese bowl, £8.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

Bouquet Ivory

Country Flowers toy box, £109, cuckooland.com Ditzy Green

Kaolin clay soap in pink rose, £5.50, iansnow.com Rose Pink

Visit makoweruk.com to find your nearest stockist.

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Fighting cancer HEAD ON

Designer Claire Featherstone of Chemo Headwear tells Sew how she helps patients through her award-winning collection Words by Melissa Hyland

Cancer remains one of the biggest health threats of the 21st century, with a person being diagnosed every two minutes in the UK. Survival rates have doubled over the last 40 years but with this, treatments such as chemotherapy can be gruelling with distressing side effects – such as possible hair loss. That’s where Claire Featherstone comes in – an inspiring woman who has made it her mission to help people in these difficult times through her gorgeous range of headscarves, turbans and hats.

“I am very familiar with the needs of people undergoing cancer treatment, having lost my own father to it when I was 17 and my mother when I was 24,” Claire tells Sew. “I have also lost both my paternal uncle and maternal aunt to cancer in the last year.” A keen sewist since school, Claire was already making bespoke dresses under her label Featherstone Frocks when someone approached her in 2011 with a special request.

COMFY AND CHIC

“I had a lovely dress client, Lucy O’Donnell (author of Cancer Is My Teacher) who was going through chemo and couldn’t find anything high-quality or luxurious to wear on her head – just lots of sweaty, mass-produced items,” Claire explains. “So I set about making turbans and ready-tied headscarves for her, then several other people asked me to make something similar for them or their loved ones.

It was then that Chemo Headwear was born.”

At present, Claire offers nine feminine designs including headscarves, stretchy hats and turbans, all modelled on her website

by Lucy, the lady who inspired it all. “I’ve tried to keep the styles to a minimum but I offer them in a huge selection of fabrics,” Claire continues. “Having a

Sophia is a glamorous turban scarf that can be tied around your head quickly and easily

“My hope is for women to feel as confident as possible” degree in textiles, I am passionate about choosing only natural, breathable fabrics. I use a lot of Liberty Tana lawns, silks and jerseys because their quality is second-to-none, plus the prints are gorgeous! I also offer a range in plain coloured silk and bamboo jersey.”

For many people, the worst part of their diagnosis can be the possibility of losing their hair, so Claire aims to make that aspect as easy to deal with as possible. “It’s important that my headwear is quick and easy to put on, comfortable and breathable – plus it must look good,” she explains. “I also make my designs in different sizes as often one doesn’t fit all! My hope is that I can make women feel as feminine and confident as possible at this difficult time.”

Lucy is a traditional turban style with soft gathering at the front to add height and fullness to the face

meet people undergoing chemotherapy and introduce them to new options they might not have known about.

“I love running my own business, designing and making my headpieces, and looking out for new fabrics. Most of all though I enjoy doing my bit to help within the cancer community,” Claire says. “There’s nothing more satisfying than helping someone feel good. I love writing a cheque to my local Macmillan centre each year, knowing how proud my Mum would have been!”

THE EXTRA MILE

Claire donates 5% of all her online sales to Macmillan Cancer Support. In addition to making and selling her headwear, she also pays regular visits to various Macmillan centres to

Evie is a special occasion hat with sequin tulle options for extra sparkle!

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WORK TWISTED CHAIN STITCH TO MAKE

Susie Johns’

NAUTICAL HOOPS Get started • Plain white cotton or linen: one fat quarter • Embroidery thread: variegated brown, silver grey satin, salmon pink satin, metallic blue, white • Translucent sequins • Erasable marker pen • Embroidery hoops: 13.5cm and 18.5cm diameter

This charming pair of framed embroideries have a nautical twist – as does this month’s featured stitch! Twisted chain is similar to the basic chain stitch but creates a rope-like outline, especially if you keep the stitch length fairly short. Here, we’ve used it to write a message on our smaller hoop, while on the larger design, it forms the chain for an anchor. This project also features satin stitch and French knots, plus split stitch for outlining.

Size Ahoy there hoop: 13.5cm diameter Crab hoop: 18.5cm diameter

Stitch a crab hanging

1

Download and print the motif at sewmag.co.uk/templates.

Use an erasable marker to transfer it onto a 25cm square of cotton or linen. Stretch the fabric in an 18.5cm hoop with the motif positioned centrally and use two strands of silver grey thread in a crewel needle to embroider the anchor in satin stitch, then outline it with split stitch.

Using two strands of salmon pink, fill in the crab with satin stitch. Embroider the crab’s eyes with satin stitch, using white thread, then add a black French knot in the centre of each one.

Using variegated brown thread, work the anchor rope in twisted chain stitch (see panel opposite). Fill in the little fish with a single strand of metallic blue. Stitch translucent sequins over the background with a single strand of white thread.

Work gathering stitch around the edge of the excess fabric on the reverse and pull the threads to tighten. To make cords for hanging, weave a plait using three pairs of embroidery threads, then secure to the screw at the top of the hoop.

2 3

4

erally shinier Satin embroidery thread is genard versions and more glossy than stand

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sew gifts

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Work a nautical greeting

1

Transfer the ‘Ahoy There’ motif onto a 20cm fabric square in the same way as the crab embroidery.

Stretch the fabric in a 13.5cm hoop and, using variegated brown thread, embroider along the text in twisted chain stitch. Secure the excess fabric on the reverse, then plait a hanging cord as before.

Twisted chain stitch There is a whole family of chain stitches, all of which are fairly straightforward and useful for embroidering thick lines. This version creates a textured 3D effect and is good for adding interest to simple designs.

It helps if you’re already familiar with basic chain stitch, as you’ll be able to see how this twisted version differs from it.

1

Bring the needle out at A and insert it to the side of the design line at B. Take a small, slanting stitch across the line and bring the needle out at C. Pass the thread over and then under the needle.

2

Gently pull the thread through to form a twisted chain of the desired size.

Insert the needle at D and bring it out at E. Pass the thread over, then under the needle and pull through.

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3

Form the next stitch, then repeat. To make the next chain, insert the needle a little way to the left, then out again one stitch length ahead, then repeat. Secure the final loop with a small tying stitch.

CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC . CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC . CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC . CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC

FREE Cotton Fabric *

FOR EVERY WORTH £8!

READER!

Here at Sew HQ we have arranged for all readers to receive a FREE* one metre of gorgeous grey cotton fabric with a cute scissor print.

ORDER YOUR FREE* FABRIC TODAY AT SEWMAG.CO.UK/COTTONFABRIC Simply enter discount code SCISSORS in your shopping basket!

PLUS TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THESE GREAT FABRICS! 2m Black Crepe

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Reader offer 108.indd 1

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sew BOOKS

the BOOKSHELF our favourite sewing titles this month

TEXTILES OF THE MIDDLE EAST AND CENTRAL ASIA by Fahmida Suleman Packed with images of richly vibrant garments, soft furnishings, toys and religious items, this catalogue explores life experiences and traditions from these culturally diverse regions as expressed through their textiles. Demonstrating exquisite skills in needlework and surface decoration, it is both informative and creatively inspiring.

Thames & Hudson, £29.95, thamesandhudson.com

SOUTHWEST MODERN by Kristi Schroeder Part quilting manual, part travel guide, this book contains 18 patterns and reads like a holiday brochure for Southwestern America. Even those without the travel bug will appreciate the strikingly modern designs, which are laid out with helpful diagrams and stitching tips - but most of all, the wonderful advice on building colour palettes.

Lucky Spool Media, £24.99, searchpress.com

BRIDAL ALTERATION TECHNIQUES

by S. L. Harbour Putting a wedding dress on every morning would be far too much fuss. For your big day however, it’s worth making sure every detail is perfect - and you’ll be well-equipped to do so with this handy guide. From working with extra special (i.e. tricky!) fabrics, to invisible alterations and heartwarming customisations, it covers every question a me-made bride could possibly have.

Deity, £16.99, bridalalterationtechniques.co.uk

THE SEWING BOOK by Alison Smith MBE This latest edition of an immensely popular book brings new techniques and projects that will help you sew absolutely everything. Whatever project you’re working on, whether it’s dressmaking, soft furnishings or alterations, every hand and machine method is laid out with close-up step-by-step images and clear instructions. It’s a book you’ll have for life.

Dorling Kindersley Ltd, £25, dk.com

SEWING KNITS FROM FIT TO FINISH by Linda Lee What’s the difference between jersey and interlock? Get this book if you don’t know, because it will open up a whole new sewing world that you’ll love.

It will teach you how to spot the right knits for different types of garments, demystify terms such as stretch and ease, plus give you loads of great tips for stitching - with or without an overlocker.

Creative Publishing International, £17.99, quartoknows.com

WEAVE THIS by Francesca Kletz and Brooke Dennis Not sewing, but definitely great for brightening up your sewing room, weaving is a traditional yet effective craft, and a clever way of using up any oddments of fabric, ribbon or yarn you have laying around. Experience not necessary, as the funny and well-written instructions are accompanied with lovely step-by-step pics.

Hardie Grant London, £14.99, hardiegrantbooks.com

SEW LAYER CAKE QUILTS & GIFTS by Carolyn Forster Using pre-cut fabric packs takes the bulk of work out of quilt-piecing, leaving you to concentrate on the sewing. With this savvy approach, even beginners will be able to tackle the nine quilts here, made even easier by the comprehensive instructions. No scrap is left behind either, with nine smaller projects that you can quickly make and give as gifts.

Search Press, £12.99, searchpress.com

Discover, learn & make!

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enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways Vlieseline stabilisers

We’re big fans of anything that makes getting perfect embroidery results a little easier, so of course stabilisers are an essential part of our stash. We’ve got a metre each of Vlieseline’s Fuse N Tear, Stitch N Tear and Filmoplast (selfadhesive), so you can add beautiful embellishments to more fabrics than ever before! Shop the range at ladysewandsew.co.uk We have ten bundles to give away.

To enter, tick STABILISERS

Worth

£60!

BIG NEEDLE BONANZA!

Fancy having a Girl Scout level of preparedness?

Using the right needle for your fabric type and weight really does produce better results, and Prym have specific ones for just about every material you could ever wish to sew. Prizes may vary slightly, but each winner receives 20 packs in a great variety.

Learn more and find stockists at prym.com/en We have four bundles to give away.

To enter, tick NEEDLES

15 to win

WIN

10 to win

with sew

NATURAL PAIN RELIEF

Chaining yourself to your sewing machine may get the project done, but it could well give you aches and pains all over. Pernaton® is an all-natural alternative to medication - simply apply it directly to a problem area and enjoy an instant cooling effect that improves joint mobility.

Buy from your local pharmacy, or read more at pernaton.co.uk We have 15 125ml tubes to give away.

To enter, tick NATURAL

£1,360+

of prizes to be won!

The

Worth

£45!

Worth Portable quilting

£65!

No dedicated cutting table? No problem! Turn any surface into a quilting prep station with this fold-out A3 cutting mat and ironing board from Trimits - you can even take it to class, thanks to the carry handles and cute owl design. Our winners will also enjoy a new rotary cutter and patchwork ruler from Sew Easy. Email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk We have two bundles to give away.

To enter, tick PORTABLE

Needle felting kit

Have you tried needle felting yet? Here’s a fantastic starter kit, containing a comfy three-needle felting pen, mat to work on, multi-purpose claw tool and 80g of natural wool roving in four delightful spring colours - a little of this stuff goes a long way! Contact clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk for stockist information.

We have three bundles to give away. To enter, tick NEEDLE FELT 78

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enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways LOVE LEATHER

Have you been inspired to try sewing a new fabric? Get your hands on this great Hemline bundle, including five packs of needles, 12 shades of thread and a rotating leather punch that can make six different-sized holes in heavy-duty materials - fantastic for resizing belts! For stockist info, email groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk We have five bundles to give away.

To enter, tick LEATHER

5 to win

PLUS

Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk /giveaways to win big today!

Worth CRAFT4CRAFTERS What are you doing from Thursday 12th to Saturday

£18!

14th April? Going to the Craft4Crafters show at the Bath & West showground in Shepton Mallet, of course. It’s set to be a massive event with loads of craft businesses, displays, textile artists, workshops, make ‘n’ take stalls and competitions! You can even bring a friend… to help carry the shopping!

Head to craft4crafters.co.uk We have 15 pairs of tickets to give away.

To enter, tick CRAFT4CRAFTERS

TWO FREE SIMPLICITY PATTERNS

Enter Dressmaker of the Year and you’ll be sent TWO free patterns, just for sharing a photo of your handmade garment. Find out more on p35 and enter at makeittoday.co.uk/dressmakeroftheyear

With Mother’s Day approaching, we thought it’d be nice to honour all the parental (and grandparental) figures in our lives.

Whether you give them a box of luxury chocolates or a hand-stitched gift, add an extra special touch with a ribbon that lets them know they’re one in a million. Visit berisfordsribbons.co.uk We have seven of each ribbon to give away. To enter, tick MUM, DAD, GRANDMA, or GRANDAD

Just tick the boxes!

To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 21.03.18 Mark your envelope: Sew March Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.

NEEDLES

PORTABLE

DAD

STABILISERS

LEATHER

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NATURAL

CRAFT4 CRAFTERS

GRANDAD

NEEDLE FELT

MUM

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms/Other..............................................................................

!

28 to win

Berisfords ribbons

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Only one entry per household. Terms and conditions can be found online at sewmag.co.uk

BRUSH UP YOUR SKILLS TO MAKE A

dolly hoop

This pretty character hoop art would make a lovely hanging in any little girl’s room. It’s a great introduction to working with wool felt, appliqué and embroidery techniques, and achieving a professional finish on the reverse. Why not omit the plaits and experiment with colours to create one for a little boy?

Get started • Floral fabric, 28cm square • Wool felt: white, cream, pink, light green, medium green, peach, lemon, pale blue • Fusible interfacing, 28cm square • Fusible appliqué bonding web • DMC embroidery thread: ecru, dusty rose (3716), beige grey (3790) • Ribbon, 40.5cm (1cm wide) • Embroidery hoop, 20.5cm diameter • Water erasable marker • Pink coloured pencil

Size 20.5cm diameter

1

Make a hanging

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Iron fusible interfacing to the wrong side of a floral fabric square and apply fusible webbing to the cream and pink felt.

Trace the face template onto cream felt and the hair template on pink felt, then cut out and peel off the backing paper.

Position the face centrally on the floral square right side up then iron.

Mark the side of the face, as indicated by a dot on the template. Use two strands of ecru thread to blanket stitch the bottom of the felt face to the fabric between the dots.

Cut six 1.2cm x 30.5cm strips of pink felt, layer three of them together, and secure at the top with a quilting clip. Loosely plait the felt, leaving 5cm at the end, stitch both ends to secure then trim them. Repeat to make a second plait. Tack the plaits over the dots, then iron the pink hair piece over the top of the face [1].

Appliqué the hair with a small running stitch using three strands of dusky rose. Tie a ribbon bow at the bottom of each plait.

Trace the face, eyes and mouth onto thin tissue paper and pin it to the felt face [2]. Backstitch through the paper, using three strands of beige grey for the eyes and dusky rose for the mouth. Gently tear away the paper. Tint the cheeks with pink pencil.

Trace the flower and leaf templates onto freezer paper. Iron the flower onto peach felt, cut out and peel off the paper. Repeat to make four more flowers in lemon, pink and pale blue. Trace and cut out two leaves each from light and medium green. Sew a small running stitch across the straight base of each flower shape. Pull the thread to gather, then secure at the back [3].

Sew the flowers and leaves over the head.

2 3

2

3

4

4 5

sew

6

Place the appliquéd fabric centrally into an embroidery hoop and tighten. Trim 2.5cm from the outer edge of the hoop. Sew a loose running stitch around, 1.3cm from the edge. Pull the thread to gather the fabric, then secure with a few stitches.

Cut a 20cm circle of white felt and whip stitch it to the back [4].

SHOPPER

************************

FLORAL FANCY This hoop project uses Liberty Tana Lawn Betsy fabric in aqua. £22.60 per metre, sewbox.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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sew kids

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

get the

book

Find more lovely projects in Pretty Handmades by Lauren Wright. ÂŁ14.95, tuvapublishing.com

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Download your digital patterns in

4 EASY STEPS!

FIRST, LOG IN OR SIGN UP

1

...to the Sew website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE. Find the tab circled at the top.

NEXT, SEARCH FOR A GARMENT

2

...by title, according to the project names opposite. Click on the search tab.

FLORA TOP

DOWNLOAD THE TEMPLATE

3

Stitch a smart jersey number with button-up back detailing.

DRAPED TOP

You can make this flattering design with just a metre of fabric!

...by pressing the ‘click here’ button, under the main image.

SAVE THE PATTERN PDF

4

...by right clicking to save to your computer, then print out (DON’ T fit to page!)

PRINT OUT & KEEP

Issue 100 Aug issue 2017 Issue 108 March 2018

JUST PRINT OUT THE PAGE OR PAGES YOU NEED FROM YOUR PRINT MENU In your print menu, under Size options, be sure to select to print ‘Actual Size’, instead of ‘Fit to Page’

You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our back issues at sewmag.co.uk/templates Designer: Amanda Walker Magazine page: 18 Total 23 pages to print

1

2

4

3

5

11

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EL PAN ACK T&B side FRON oth FOR on b PLEAT otch uter n e en o r betw Gathe

BACK FACING Cut one pair

6

8

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FRONT PANEL Cut one on fold SIDE PANEL Cut two on fold BACK PANEL Cut one pair

FRONT FACING fold Cut one on

Cut one pair for back panels

BACK BODICE Cut one pair

Cut on fold for centre front panel and side panels

FRONT BODICE Cut one on fold

‘TILING’ DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern, as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready in order to join the sheets!

20

21

centre front

19

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16

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Lorem ipsum

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WAISTBAND Cut one only

© ACEVILLE PUBLICATIONS LTD | WWW.SEWMAG.CO.UK

All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.

BACK DETAIL TOP

This smart-casual lightweight blouse will become a wardrobe staple.

NO-PATTERN TOP

Use your own measurements to create our floaty tunic.

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sew HOME

STORE YOUR KNICK-KNACKS IN

pom-pom pots

Get started • Outer fabric, 45cm x 50cm • Lining fabric, 45cm x 50cm • Medium weight fusible interfacing, 45cm x 50cm

Accumulating lots of bits ‘n’ bobs is something that goes hand in hand with being dedicated to your craft – it’s nothing to be ashamed of! These colourful pots are a great storage option, and might even help bust your stash of a few fabric scraps at the same time. You could even use two rows of pom-pom trim for extra decoration.

• Plastic canvas mesh or card, 9cm x 20cm • Pom-pom trim, 1m • Fabric glue

Cutting guide

Small/medium basket: cut two each from outer fabric, lining fabric and fusible interfacing

Sizes

sew

Small: 13cm tall Medium: 14.5cm tall

free template download

1cm seam allowance used throughout.

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Sew a basket

1

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/ templates, then cut the pieces according to the cutting guide.

Adhere interfacing to the wrong side of the outer fabric. Match the outer pieces at the sides, wrong sides together, and pin.

Pin together the sides marked ‘B’ to join them, repeat for the sides marked ‘C’, then sew. Press the seams flat and pull the corners of the cutaway square sections out. Pin to create a box shape and sew across.

Turn right sides out. Repeat for the lining fabric.

Cut a piece of plastic mesh or card slightly smaller than the base and position into the base of the outer box. Secure with stitches or fabric glue.

Place the outer box into the lining box and pin around the top edge. Sew around this edge, leaving a 10cm gap. Pull the box inside out via the gap and push the lining into the outer. Press the top seam, then slip stitch the gap closed.

Topstitch around the top edge, then hand-sew or glue a row of pom-pom trim to the edge. Fold the top of the pot down.

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your

SEWING GUIDE

Get to grips with the dressmaking basics!

THE PERFECT FIT

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage.

Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope.

You can then make any alterations that are necessary.

Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.

l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk

HIGH BUST FULL BUST Published By Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2018 Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys.

All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

WAIST HIPS

Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head.

HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust.

FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back.

WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments.

HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

Find this chic, striped dress pattern for FREE at sewmag.co.uk

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wear with

EASE

‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily.

Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitting garment?

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN

Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting.

This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.

READING A PATTERN

The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes.

Highlighting yours can help with cutting.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).

.LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

“To match stripes and other prints, first press your fabric. When cutting out doubled fabric, pin the stripes together at intervals so the top and bottom layers match exactly. Position the front on the fold and the back besides it with the centre-back near the selvedge. Ensure that the underarms on the front and back bodice are in exactly the same position on the stripe.”

MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY

UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

PLACING YOUR PIECES CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC

SELVEDGES

FOLD

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

S BIA

Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabric first.

This means that you will know how the material reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press it with an iron using a suitable heat setting. After, lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. Tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching so you can adjust if necessary.

Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.

WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body.

SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the weft grain is the selvedge.

WARP WEFT

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PATTERNS

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TOPof the CLASS

Learn techniques from embroidering monograms to free motion appliqué Feel like you’re stuck in a sewing rut? Why not challenge yourself by trying a new skill, such as hand-embroidered lettering to embellish your handmade garments? If you only use the basic functions on your sewing machine, discover what else it can do with a free motion machine appliqué class – or really ring the changes by having a go at needle felting or weaving!

Textile Craft Workshops Wonderwool Wales, Builth Wells

Monogram on Denim Royal School of Needlework, London

Free Motion Machine Appliqué Gather ‘n’ Sew, Bourne, Lincs

This premier Wool & Natural Fibre Festival returns to the Royal Welsh Showground on 28th and 29th April, with a wide range of workshops to take part in. These include Brooching Your Stash where you’ll transform wool oddments into a stitched brooch, plus needle felting, weaving, knitting, crocheting and more. Prices start from £12.50 and advance booking is essential.

Visit wonderwoolwales.co.uk

This one-day class on 24th February at Hampton Court is the perfect chance to learn how to create monograms to apply onto clothing. You’ll embroider your chosen letter onto calico, cut it out, then sew it onto your chosen garment. Priced £97.50, the class kit will include everything required although you may like to bring your own embroidery scissors. To book, visit royal-needlework.org.uk

Get really creative with your sewing machine in this two-hour class on 28th February, and learn all of the basic techniques you need to ‘draw’ beautiful pictures and motifs onto fabric – using thread rather than ink! Priced £20, you will need to bring background fabric and scraps, contrasting thread, lightweight iron-on interfacing, Bondaweb and a free motion machine foot on the day. Visit gathernsew.co.uk

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� DON’T MISS our pets special – sewing for your furry friends! � Tackle the knitty gritty… get to grips with jersey fabrics. � Cutting and sewing stripes!

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