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17

ST YLISH MAKES

Happy Cat

Father's Day

MACHINE COVER

GIFTS

MASTERCLASS Our expert guide to fabric printing ISSUE 53 UK £8.99

Inspire Imagine Create

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Floral

EMBROIDERY www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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See Kerry's version on page 23

Meet the

TEAM

‌ to issue 53 of Love Sewing

D

on't you love a bumper issue? I certainly do.

When you get a new batch of sewing patterns you can plan exciting new projects to boost your wardrobe. This issue that means a classic flattering A-line dress that you can make in woven and jersey fabric, which is amazing.

Plus you can sew yourself the perfect pair of trousers, try your hands at jeans or give the dungaree trend a go!

There is some seriously swoonworthy fabric on show this month as well. We used a fabulously fruity rayon from Art Gallery Fabrics for a swishy version of our Butterick free gift.

Lemons, blackberries, grapes and oranges all feature on this eye-catching design. Plus Minerva Crafts is offering our readers 20% off its denim and chambray fabric, perfect for several of the projects in this edition. Last but not least, master fabric printer Jen Hewett is talking to us about her new book Print, Pattern, Sew on page 36. If you're inspired to try fabric printing yourself, we're featuring one of the projects from the book over on page 82. Learn to make a tulip block, print your own fabric and turn it into a chic tunic dress!

age 36 Meet Jen on p

Pretty trim on page 18

It was a pleasure to have the delightful Kerry Green over to the studio this month with her floral dungarees. You will know Kerry from her column Swatch Selector where she shares her tips for clever quilt blocks and how to mix fabric prints

3 welcome.indd 3

Simon ART EDITOR Simon is passionate about design and has a keen eye for detail.

He's creative in his spare time too and we love his range of bright and cheeky enamel pins.

See more at www.instagram.com/ simonsayspins

Bethany like a pro, but she's also a keen dressmaker. She made a few adjustments to create a casual pair that are still bold and fun. Turn to page 23 to hear about how she customised the pattern. I'm sure you'll be inspired to make your own pair asap!

Feeling fruity on page 19

DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. She’s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks and pins available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com

Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She loves to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@lovesewingmag. co.uk

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4 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

/lovesewingmag www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Find us online

B6164

EASY/FACILE

DRESS: Dress has semi-fitted, pleated, lined bodice with darts stitched on right ROBE : Robe à corsage two-piece, lined sleeves, side of fabric, raised waist, carriers, doublé, plissé, semi-ajusté, à pinces piquées sur and back zipper. l’endroit du tissu, taille manches en deux haute, passants, parties et doublées, Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14 et fermeture à glissière dos. ), E5(14-16-18-20-22) Designed for lightweight Séries: woven A5(6-8-10-12-14 and stable FABRICS: Challis, ), Crepe, Jersey, Peachskin. knit fabrics.

Créé pour des tricots E5(14-16-18-20-22) Unsuitable for obvious stables et des tissus léger. diagonals. tissés de poid *With Nap. **Without Nap. TISSUS: Etamine, Crêpe, Jersey, Peau de pêche.

Grandes diagonales SIZES ne conviennent pas.

6 8 *Avec Sens. **Sans 10 12 14 16 Sens.

A 45"*/** 18 20 22 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ TAILLES 3≤ 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 6 8 60"*/** 10 12 14 16 2 3∫ 2 A 115cm*/** 3.00 3.00 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ 18 20 22 B 45"* 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.40 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 150cm*/** 1.90 1.90 3.40 3.40 3.40 2≥ 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 45"** 2.10 2.10 2.10 2∑ 3∂ 2∑ 2.20 B 2∑ 115cm* 2.20 2∑ 2.30 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2.30 60"* 1π 2 2.60 2.90 2.90 2.90 2∑ 2 115cm** 2.20 2.20 2∂ 2∂ 2∑ 2∑ 2.90 60"** 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2∑ 2∑ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 150cm* 1.80 1.90 2.20 2.20 2.20 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π CONTRAST 1.90 2.00 B 2.00 1π 2.20 150cm** 2.20 2.20 2.20 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 45"*/** π 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 π CONTRASTE B π π π 1.80 π 60"*/** 1 1 ∫ 1 ∫ ≥ 115cm*/** 0.80 0.80 ≥ ≥ ≥ LINING 0.80 ≥ A, 0.80 ≥ B 0.80 π 0.80 150cm*/** 0.60 0.60 1.00 1.00 1.00 45" 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 π π DOUBLURE A, B π 0.70 0.70 0.80 π π π C 45"* 1 1 3∞ 3∫ 3∫ 3≥ 1 115cm 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 3≥ 4 45"** 4 4∂ 4∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 0.80 0.80 1.00 1.00 C 115cm* 3.20 3.40 3≤ 3≥ 3≥ 3π 1.00 60"* 3.40 3.50 3.50 3.70 2∫ 2≥ 2≥ 2π 3π 115cm** 2.90 2.90 3.70 3.80 3.80 2π 3 60"** 2.90 2.90 3.00 3.50 3∂ 3≤ 3≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 150cm* 2.40 3.50 3.60 3.60 2∑ 2.60 2∞ LINING C 2.60 2∞ 2.70 2∞ 2.70 2.80 2.90 3.00 2∫ 150cm** 2.10 2.10 3.00 45" 2.10 2.10 2.20 2.30 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ DOUBLURE C 2.30 2.30 2.40 1∑ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ NOTIONS: 22" Zipper, 1≥ Hook and Eye, One 115cm 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 Purchased Belt.

1.30 1.50 1.50 1.50 MERCERIE: Fermeture 1.60 à Glissière de 55cm, achetée.

Agrafe, 1 Ceinture MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI Longueur - dos, votre nuque à l’ourlet 41≤ 41∞ A, B, C 100 101 102 102 103 103 104 105 105

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Back length from base of neck A, B, C 39∞ 39≥ 40 40≤ 40∞ 40≥ 41

A

BUTTERICK PATTERN,

80 Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie 86 Behind the seams with Wendy Ward 90 Patrick Grant exclusive: Talking sustainability and creativity 95 Fabric focus: Life’s a beach 96 Coming next issue Receive 3 issues for just £6 when you subscribe to Love Sewing – see page 26 for further info

19 Your free Butterick pattern gift – a classic A-line dress with panelled skirt 24 Your free McCall’s pattern gift – on-trend dungarees and trousers 30 Perks of being a wallflower Liberty rose wall hanging 38 Arm candy man’s messenger bag 40 Flower power girl’s tunic dress 43 Precious petals tulip sleeve top 60 Blooming lovely embroidery 68 Strap yourself in dungaree hack 82 See yourself in print A-line dress 92 Purrfect stitching machine cover 98 Hold the phone mobile cover flower embroidery B

120 BROADWAY, NEW YORK 10271 © 2015 The • PRINTED IN U.S.A. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. McCall Pattern Co. SOLD FOR

PROJECTS

C

•

INDIVIDUAL HOME www.butterick.com USE ONLY AND NOT FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSE RESERVE OR MANUFACTURING Á UN USAGE PERSONNEL.

19

Simple & stylish A -line dress

C A B

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 ) SIZE/ TAILLE

Butterick B6164

SIZES/TAILLES Bust Waist Hip Poitrine Taille Hanches

Butterick

112 94 117

107 87 112

102 81 107

97 76 102

92 71 97

22 44 37 46

87 67 92

20 42 34 44

83 64 88

18 40 32 42

80 61 85

16 38 30 40

77 58 83

14 36 28 38

12 34 26∞ 36

10 32∞ 25 34∞

8 31∞ 24 33∞

6 30∞ 23 32∞

B6164

3 Welcome 6 Love Sewing Loves 10 Fabric focus: Save 20% on denim and chambray at Minerva Crafts 12 Shop of the month 14 A brief history of kilts 18 Sewing room spruce 23 Reader review: McCall’s 7547 26 SUBSCRIBE TODAY 29 Jade Earley the girl with the bright red hair 32 This month I’m making 33 Love Sewing reader survey 34 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 36 In the good books 47 Northern Ireland sewing scene with Angeline Murphy 50 Sewing workshops 53 20% off Simple Sew patterns 54 PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS 57 Swatch Selector with Kerry Green 58 Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE 63 DISCOUNTS AND GIVEAWAYS 67 Machine review 70 Pattern picks: Modern silhouettes 74 The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake 76 Support your local fabric shop 79 Readers’ makes

REGULARS AND FEATURES

YELLOW MAGENT A CYAN BLACK

Inside this ISSUE

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www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 5 Claire is the founder of Simple Sew patterns and designer of our petal-sleeve top on page 43. See the full pattern range, take a peek at what the blogger team has been making and find helpful tutorials and tips at www.simplesewpatterns.com

Claire Garside Jeans et salopettes à fermeture sous-patte, JEANS ET SALOPETTES: devant, ouverture latérale C, D: Kit de boucle Close-fitting jeans à fausse braguette A, B, C: Passants.

JEANS AND OVERALLS:fly front, lapped zipper side moulants et variations de jambe. faux A, B, C: poche plaquée ceñiand overalls have overoles variations. y leg and SEÑORAS: Jeans acheté pour salopette. opening, patch pocket, overall buckle kit. bolsilPARA JÓVENES Y lateral con cremallera, JEANS Y OVEROLES Carriers. C, D: Purchased en el frente, abertura C, D: Kit de dos con bragueta simuladade pierna. A, B, C: Presillas de correa. lo de parche y variaciones overol. hebilla comprada para E5(14-16-18-20-22) Twill, A5(6-8-10-12-14), Séries/Combinaciones: Denim extensible, Tissus tissés extensibles, -22) TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: 4), E5(14-16-18-20 Twill, Denim. tejidas extensibles, Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-1 Stretch Wovens, Twill, Telas Denim.

Denim, Stretch Denim extensible, SUGGESTED FABRICS: TELAS SUGERIDAS: 22 20 18 16 14 Denim.

12 10 8 6 2.60 2.60 2.60 m TAILLES/TALLAS 2.60 2.60 2.60 22 20 2.60 2.60 2.60 18 2.30 2.30 2.40 m 16 14 12 1.90 2.20 2.20 Yds. A 115cm* 10 8 6 1.90 1.90 1.90 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2.40 2.40 2.40 m SIZES 150cm* 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ " 2.40 2.40 2.40 2∞ 2∫ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.20 2.30 2.40 m A 45"* 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2 1.50 1.90 2.00 Yds. B 115cm* 2 2 2 1.50 1.50 1.50 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 1.50 1.60 1.80 m 60"* 150cm* 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ " 1.30 1.30 1.50 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 1.20 1.20 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 m 2∂ 2∑ 2∞ B 45"* 1∫ 2 1.10 1.10 1.10 Yds. C 115cm* 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1.00 1.10 1.10 1∫ 1≥ 1π 3.00 3.00 3.00 m 60"* 150cm* 1∑ 1∑ 1∫ " 2.60 2.60 2.60 1∑ 1∑ 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.30 2.40 2.40 m C 45"* 1∂ 1∂ 1∑ 2.00 2.00 2.30 Yds. D 115cm* A, B, C, 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1 2.00 2.00 2.00 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 60"* TERMOADHESIVA 150cm* 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ " ANT/ENTRETELA 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2∞ 2∫ 2∫ 1.20 1.20 1.30 m D 45"* ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLL 2∂ 2∂ 2∞ 1.10 1.10 1.10 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 1.00 1.00 1.00 1 Bouton de 16mm.

60"* à glissière de 18cm, Yds. D 46, 51cm A, B, C, D 1≤ 1∑ A, B, C, D: 1 Fermeture FUSIBLE INTERFACING sans couture.

1∂ 1∂ 1≤ 1∂ 1 1 de salopette à boutons D: One Pair of MERCERIE: C, D: 1 par 18", 20" 1 One ∫" Button. C, C, D: 1 paire de Boucles1 Cremallera de 18cm, 1 Botón de 16mm.

C, D: One 7" Zipper, C, D: NOTIONS: A, B, MERCERÍA: A, B, de aplicación sin costura.ACABADA No-sew Buttons. para overol con botones Overall Buckles with LA PRENDA Hebillas de FINI/MEDIDAS DE MESURES DU VÊTEMENT rno de caderas 118 123 cm 103 108 113 Mesure aux hanches/Conto 98 94 92 89 A, B, C, D cada pierna 64 cm 62 61 60 59 Largeur, chaque jambe/Ancho, 57 56 41 cm 55 40 54 38 37 36 A, D 34 33 32 la cintura 31 B, C del costado desde taille à l’ourlet/Largo 107 107 107 cm Longueur - côté, 107 107 107 99 cm 99 107 107 107 99 99 99 A, D 99 99 33 cm 99 33 99 33 33 33 B 33 33 33 33 ***Con o Sin Pelillo Pelillo **Sin Pelillo C ou Sans Sens *Con

M7547

Fiona is the creative mind behind Sewgirl, a range of patterns and kits for adults and children. Why not try her quirky cat machine cover on page 92 or the adorable girls’ dress on page 40? Visit Fiona’s shop at www.sewgirl.co.uk

Kerry is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and runs www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk where she offers tips, free tutorials, and patterns. Kerry’s McCall’s dungarees review is on page 23 and find her fruity apple quilt block on page 57.

Kerry Green

Our regular bag-making expert is back with a fab leather and canvas messenger bag tutorial on page 38.

Debbie is a talented sewing book author. Discover more at www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

Debbie von Grabler-Crozier

MEASUREMENTS FINISHED GARMENT 44∞ 46∞ 48∞ Measurement at hipline 37 38∞ 40∞ 42∞ 36 A, B, C, D 35 Width, each leg 21∞ 22 21 A, D 12∞ 13 12 B, C waist Side length from 42 42 42 A, D 39 39 39 B 13 13 13 C

22∞ 23 13∞ 14 42 39 13

42 39 13

Nap Nap ***With or Without *With Nap **Without

23∞ 24 14∞ 15 42 39 13

42 39 13

24∞ 25 15∞ 16 42 39 13

42 39 13

Ins. " "

" " "

*Avec Sens **Sans

C

Sens ***Avec

C

B

B

A

Stock images provided by Shutterstock, Inc

Copyright© 2017, The

All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

40

A

D

D

Marca Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks n.com 10271, All Rights Reserved. purposes. www.mccallpatter Broadway, New York McCall Pattern Co., 120 commercial or manufacturing strictement interdite. use only and not for commerciale ou industrielle Sold for individual home personnel. Utilisation Reserve à un usage

Registrada

M7547

M7547_ENV

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

D SIZE/ TAILLE

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Fiona Hesford

CONTRIBUTORS

Four styles to try!

A B C

Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X customerservice@practicalpublishing.co.uk

Tel: 0844 561 1202

Other enquiries

DEL CUERPO TS/MESURES/MEDIDAS 18 14 16 BODY MEASUREMEN 10 12 8 6 40 36 38 SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 32 Bust 25 26∞ 28 30 23 24 42 38 40 Waist 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 16∞ 16≥ 17 Hip 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ Back Waist Length 102 92 97 83 87 77 80 81 71 76 Poitrine/Busto 64 67 58 61 97 102 107 Taille/Cintura 88 92 83 85 43 Hanches/Caderas 40.5 41.5 42 42.5 espalda 39.5 40 Longueur dos/Largo

Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk

22 20 44 Ins. 42 37 Ins. 34 46 Ins. 44 17≤ 17∞ Ins. 107 112 cm 94 cm 87 112 117 cm 44.5 cm 44

M7547

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A CYAN BLACK YELLOW MAGENT

Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk

Contact

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Newstrade Seymour Distribution Ltd

Distribution 90 30

Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Sales & Information Support Executive Stacey Oldman Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

Publishing & Advertising Editor Amy Thomas Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Art Editor Simon Kay Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Ward, Jade Earley, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green

24

Editorial 38

The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month

Pyjama party

Looking for gift inspiration for Father’s Day? We recommend Vogue 8964, a multi-garment pattern with plenty of options. Whip up a stylish robe, create a co-ordinating pair of pyjamas or sew a pair of casual lounge trousers.

Size: Waist 34-40" and 40-46" Price: £14, available from www.sewdirect.com

TOP OF

THE FLOCK

Transport yourself to a glorious sunny location with this bright and bold canvas from Croft Mill Fabrics. This is a high-quality John Louden fabric with technicolour toucans, vibrant parrots and delicate pink cockatoos. It would make a great bag, dungaree dress and eye-catching pencil skirt.

Price: £18, available from www. croftmill.co.uk

ROLL UP! ROLL UP! Tidy your make-up brushes with the Threaders Fabrikit Roll Organiser. We love the beautiful floral fabric that is provided in this kit. The set includes your fabric panel, thread, wadding, ribbon and step-by-step instructions; everything you need to get started right away! The finished roll measures 13½x8½” and you can create various sizes of pouch for all your supplies.

Price: £11.99, available from www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

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LOSE YOURSELF IN LIBERTY There’s nothing like the rich colours, charming prints and quality feel of Liberty Tana lawn. If like us you can’t get enough of this luscious fabric then you’ll be happy to hear the clever team at Abakhan has added loads of new prints to its shop. Find the swoony Strawberry Thief by William Morris, leafy palm prints and abstract florals plus a few cheeky novelty prints over on its site.

Price: Starting at £5 per metre, available from www.abakhan.co.uk

Stitchers gonna

STITCH The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month

Bethany Deputy Editor

FLY THE FLAG

This month I’m embracing Royal Wedding and baby fever with a best-ofBritish celebration!

First off, I have to pick out this fab cross-stitch cushion kit. It includes a hand-painted cotton canvas making it super easy to follow where to stitch next, as well as yarn, a needle and full instructions. Available for £34.99 from www.thisengland.co.uk

LIFE’S A JOURNEY

TIME FOR TEA

Take your love of quilting on the road and reignite your passion for fabric and sewing on a textile tour. ECT Travel is running two trips later this year. The first is a holiday to the European Patchwork Meeting in Alsace, France 13th – 16th September, exploring more than 1,200 examples of beautiful textile art across four picturesque villages. The largest patchwork festival in the world, this is not to be missed, plus there are plenty of opportunities to go fabric shopping, attend classes and conferences and meet like-minded (and lovely!) quilty folk.

The second trip is to the International Quilt Festival in Houston, Texas 6th – 14th November. The largest annual quilt show in the USA, it attracts tens of thousands of visitors and allows you to pore over more than 1,500 quilts and unique works of textile arts. There is an extensive workshop and lecture programme too, if you find time in between fabric shopping of course!

Find out more and book your spot at www.ecttravel.com/tours

What’s more British than a cuppa, right? I love this 5” embroidery hoop, which is £44 from www. pixiecraft.co.uk It’s handmade to order and would make a gorgeous gift for any caffeine addict.

LONDON CALLING

At 3½x5”, this postcard-sized pattern makes a great weekend project! Also, how cute is that tiny double-decker bus?

Download yours for £4.98 from www. tinymodernist.com

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MINI ME

It’s the

bee’s knees!

Loving our dungaree dress from this issue? Why not make a miniature version for the little ladies in your life? The latest pattern release from Bobbins & Buttons is Mary; an A-line dungaree dress pattern for girls. It’s a versatile design perfect for layering with long or short-sleeve T-shirts and the pull-on style means there are no tricky zips to deal with! The pattern is ideal for beginners.

Size: 1-12 years Price: £14, available from www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

As the weather warms up, there’s nothing better than wearing breezy cool viscose. Our pick of the month is this blue and white stripe viscose covered with darling bumblebees. It would be perfect for a version of our free Butterick pattern gift this month, an oversized shirt, or a floaty maxi skirt.

Price: £9.95 per metre, available from www.stoffstil.co.uk

OH BROTHER! How beautiful is this coverstitch machine from Brother? It’s the essential machine for a professional finish and awe-inspiring creations.

The CV3440 offers coverhem functionality for a high-quality, sophisticated finish. Plus you’ll find the machine easy to handle, while the user-friendly threading systems make hemming and topstitching fabric a breeze. We recommend buying this beauty from Karelia House as it offers free delivery and an experienced team to help you with any queries!

Price: £499, available from www. kareliahouse.co.uk

HOT OFF THE

press!

Turning up hems on your latest pair of handmade trousers? Trying to achieve a neat curved hem on a circle skirt? Try the new Hot Hemmer from Clover. This 10x15cm ruler is ideal for measuring, marking, folding and pressing seams and any hems that might need doing. It includes useful guidelines for mitred corners and a curve for shaping and is available in a larger size too for bigger quilt and home décor projects.

Price: Starting at £17.70. Find your nearest stockist by contacting clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk

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NORTHERN DELIGHTS Treat yourself to a new pattern or gorgeous piece of fabric at our favourite new shop Fabricate, in Roberttown, Yorkshire. Owner Phillipa has gathered together your favourite sewing patterns, brilliant fabric prints plus all the haberdashery you need to start a new project. We recommend the Claudette dress from Colette Patterns that features loads of customisable details. Those frilled cap sleeves have us swooning!

Find the pattern plus many more treats in store and online at www.fabricateshop.co.uk

Dear diary

If you spent a day crafting and didn’t journal it, did it really even happen? This crafting journal has space for 12 months of crafting projects so you can track your progress and see how much you’ve achieved in a year. With space for notes, crafting playlists and tracking new projects as well as little project suggestions, this journal is perfect for anyone who loves nothing more than crafting the day away!

Price: £14 available from www.paperchase.co.uk

PERFECT POSTURE

Turn to page 90 for more Patrick!

We love the tips on the Fabrics for Sale blog reminding us to sit with good posture at our sewing machines. A few simple tweaks to the height of your machine and chair can prevent those niggling pains in your neck or back as you sew. While you’re over on the site reading the team’s advice, we recommend a sneaky peek at the staggering range of fabric on offer: Educational and inspiring! Read the article at www.fabricsforsale.co.uk/blog/avoid-back-pain-sewing

CAN YOU BEE-LIEVE IT? The Great British Sewing Bee looks set to return to our screens!

We’ve missed Patrick and Esme so much and can’t wait to see what the new group of contestants whip up in those exciting challenges. As more news on the show arrives make sure you’re following us on social media to hear the latest gossip. Are you brave enough to apply?

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10 fabric focus.indd 10

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Coral stretch denim, £11.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com , Jeans et salopettes à fermeture sous-patte latérale Kit de boucle SALOPETTES: devant, ouverture Passants. C, D: JEANS ET à fausse braguette de jambe. A, B, C: jeans ceñiClose-fitting side moulants et variations OVERALLS: front, lapped zipper : Jeans y overoles poche plaquée bolsilfly JEANS AND Y SEÑORAS A, B, C: salopette. cremallera, have faux acheté pour leg variations.

S PARA JÓVENESabertura lateral con and overalls C, D: Kit de pocket, and kit. el frente, de correa.

JEANS Y OVEROLE opening, patch Purchased overall buckle simulada en A, B, C: Presillas D: s de pierna. dos con bragueta Carriers. C, y variacione lo de parche para overol.

18-20-22) hebilla comprada s, Twill, -12-14), E5(14-16- tissés extensible es: A5(6-8-10 , Tissus Séries/CombinacionLÉS: Denim extensible Twill, extensibles, TISSUS CONSEIL , Telas tejidas Twill, Denim.

E5(14-16-18-20-22) Denim.

Denim extensible 22 20 Stretch Wovens, A5(6-8-10-12-14), SUGERIDAS: 18 16 m TELAS Combinations: FABRICS: Stretch Denim, 14 2.60 2.60 12 10 ED 2.60 2.60 8 Denim.

SUGGEST 2.40 m 6 2.60 2.60 2.30 2.30 TAILLES/TALLAS 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.40 m 2.20 2.20 22 2.40 2.40 1.90 1.90 20 18 2.40 m 2.40 2.40 Yds. A 115cm* 1.90 1.90 16 2≥ 14 2.20 2.30 2.40 2.40 12 150cm* 2≥ 2≥ 10 " 1.80 m 1.90 2.00 2.40 2.40 8 2∫ 2≥ 2≥ 6 1.50 1.60 1.50 1.50 2∞ 2∞ 2≥ 2≥ SIZES 1.30 m 1.30 1.50 Yds. B 115cm* 1.50 1.50 2∫ 2∑ 2∑ 2≥ 2≥ 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 2 150cm* 2∫ 2∫ 2 A 45"* " 3.00 m 1.10 1.10 1.20 1.20 2 2∫ 2∫ 2 3.00 3.00 1.10 1.10 2∞ 2∫ 60"* 2∫ 2∫ 2.40 m 2.60 2.60 Yds. C 115cm* 1.00 1.10 2∂ 2∑ 1π 2 2∫ 2∫ 2.30 2.40 2.60 2.60 150cm* 1∫ 1≥ 1∫ 1∫ B 45"* " 2.00 2.30 DHESIVA A, B, C, 2.60 2.60 1∑ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 2.00 2.00 1∑ 1∑ 60"* 1∑ 1∑ LA TERMOA 1.30 m Yds. D 115cm* 2.00 2.00 1∂ 1∑ 3≤ /ENTRETE 1≤ 1≤ 1.20 1.20 1∂ 1∂ 150cm* 3≤ 3≤ C 45"* " 1.10 1.10 de 16mm.

1∂ 1∂ THERMOCOLLANT 2∫ 2≥ 2≥ 1 1.00 1.10 18cm, 1 Bouton ENTOILAGE 60"* 2∞ 2∫ 2≥ 2≥ 1.00 1.00 à glissière de 2∂ 2∞ 2≥ 2≥ D 46, 51cm sans couture.

1 par D: 1 Fermeture 2∂ 2∂ D 45"* C, Yds. B, boutons à A, IE: 16mm. C, D: 2∂ 2∂ D 1≤ 1∑ de salopette 60"* 1 Botón de ING A, B, C, Pair of MERCER 1∂ 1≤ de Boucles a de 18cm, C, D: One 1∂ 1∂ sin costura.

C, D: 1 paire 1 Cremaller 1 FUSIBLE INTERFAC 1 A, B, C, D: de aplicación PRENDA ACABADA One ∫" Button.

MERCERÍA: con botones 18", 20" 1 One 7" Zipper, DE LA overol IDAS para A, B, C, D: T FINI/MED de Hebillas Buttons.

NOTIONS: 123 cm DU VÊTEMEN with No-sew de caderas 113 118 MESURES Overall Buckles 103 108 hanches/Contorno 98 94 Mesure aux 92 64 cm 89 62 cada pierna 61 C, D 60 41 cm 59 Ins. A, B, jambe/Ancho, 40 57 38 56 37 Largeur, chaque 54 55 36 34 33 desde la cintura A, D 32 " 107 cm 31 rgo del costado 107 107 B, C à l’ourlet/La " 99 cm 107 107 99 - côté, taille 99 107 107 99 Longueur 33 cm 99 107 107 33 99 33 99 33 A, D 99 Pelillo " 33 99 33 ***Con o Sin 33 **Sin Pelillo B 33 " 33 *Con Pelillo ou Sans Sens C " Sens ***Avec

M7547

MEASUREMENTS GARMENT 46∞ 48∞ FINISHED 42∞ 44∞ ent at hipline 37 38∞ 40∞ Measurem 36 35 24∞ 25 A, B, C, D 23∞ 24 leg 15∞ 16 22∞ 23 Width, each 14∞ 15 21∞ 22 21 13∞ 14 A, D 12∞ 13 42 12 42 42 B, C 42 39 42 from waist 39 42 39 42 Side length 39 42 13 39 42 13 39 13 39 A, D 13 39 13 39 13 13 B 13 13 Nap or Without C Nap ***With

*Avec Sens

**Sans

M7547

see our gorgeous dungaree dress pattern hack **Without *With Nap

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Reg. U.S. Pat. Trademarks Printed in U.S.A. www.mccallpattern.com All Rights Reserved. ing purposes.

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Co., 120 Broadway, le ou industrielle and not for commercia The McCall Pattern individual home use only Utilisation commercia Sold for usage personnel.

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B C DEL CUERPO 18 20 22 /MEDIDAS Ins. 14 16 MESURES 42 44 10 12 40 8 Ins. 6 36 38 34 37 32∞ 34 32 Ins. 30∞ 31∞ 28 30 44 46 25 26∞ 42 Ins. 23 24 38 40 17≤ 17∞ 34∞ 36 17 32∞ 33∞ 16∞ 16≥ 16 16≤ 15∞ 15≥ 112 cm 102 107 cm 92 97 87 94 83 87 81 71 76 117 cm 64 67 107 112 cm 97 102 44 44.5 88 92 43 42 42.5 40.5 41.5

EMENTS/ BODY MEASUR LAS SIZES/TAILLES/TAL Bust Waist Hip Length Back Waist

77 80 58 61 Poitrine/Busto 83 85 Taille/Cintura 40 aderas Hanches/C espalda 39.5 Longueur dos/Largo

M7547 YELLOW MAGE

NTA CYAN

BLACK

Minerva Crafts is an online emporium for sewing enthusiasts. The experienced team works hard to offer an expansive collection of dressmaking and craft fabric, haberdashery supplies and quilting essentials. Head to www.minervacrafts. com to see the incredible selection of goodies and use the code LOVESEWING53 at checkout to save 20% on denim and chambray fabric before 7th June 2018.

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Fabric shopping Art Gallery Fabrics Denim Studio Collection Canyon Sunset solid textured denim, ÂŁ22.99 per metre Blue Star-print chambray denim dress fabric, ÂŁ10.99 per metre Art Gallery Fabrics Denim Studio Collection Painterly Wash chambray, ÂŁ23.99 per metre Spot-print cotton chambray, ÂŁ11.99 per metre Robert Kaufman selvedge denim, ÂŁ24.99 per metre 11.7oz blue washed denim, ÂŁ13.99 per metre Daisy floral-print stretch chambray, ÂŁ6.99 per metre Art Gallery Fabrics Denim Studio Collection Endless Paradise coloured chambray, ÂŁ16.99 per metre All available from www.minervacrafts.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 11

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24/04/2018 14:47

SHOP OF THE

STEP BY STEP

South Molton, North Devon

Emily, Julia & Molly

This month, we speak to the team at Step by Step. This lovely shop in Devon stocks a range of haberdashery and runs regular workshops to suit all skill levels Hi there! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today?

Julia was teaching in our classroom; it was a full house and everyone was doing something different – if truth be told there was more talking than actual work being done! Emily was in the shop and, in between, trying to sew some more of her entry for this year’s Festival of Quilts, Molly (our Border terrier and PR department) was up to all sorts of mischief.

Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop Back in 1999 Julia and her then business partner Anne set up shop in what was Anne’s former petrol station shop. Over the years the shop took over more and more of Bernard’s (Anne’s husband) garage.

Then after the sad passing of Bernard, Anne decided to retire and Julia’s daughter Emily stepped into the fray. At this point they moved into the premises where we have been for nearly five years. Over the past 19 years the business has gone from strength to strength. There isn’t enough time in the day to do all we want to, and not enough space in the classroom to accommodate all the ladies that want to join our workshops and daily classes.

Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist?

For a beginner, you can’t go wrong with an Elna Experience 520, it’s exceedingly user friendly and is comparable to the Janome XL60, we see a lot of them in our classroom. As for an experienced sewist, if you’re prepared to part with a sizeable amount of cash you’d be happy sitting

behind an Elna Experience 760PRO. It has a wider throat for those big quilting projects – it has an integrated walking foot system! – and comes with an extension table fitted as standard.

Have you had any particularly memorable moments with customers in store?

Most weeks someone comes in with an amazing quilt that we have helped them with in one way or another; be it choosing the fabric, deciding on the design or just a nudge in the right direction. These visits are always guaranteed to put a smile on our faces (and sometimes jaws on the floor) and make our job worthwhile.

What sets you apart from other shops?

We’re based in the heart of a historic market town, very close to Exmoor and the coast, so we benefit from quilters and sewists alike seeking us out especially whilst on holiday, or even planning their trip around a visit to us. We like to think our shop is unique, because of the mother/daughter/dog combo, and the fact that it’s small, but perfectly formed.

If we haven’t got what you need, then we probably know someone that does!

Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about?

We’re beginning to stock more Tula Pink fabric – we currently have a small selection of Tula’s Spirit Animal and All Stars ranges, and some classics from the catalogue of Kaffe Fassett and Phillip Jacobs; they’re quickly becoming a favourite among our regulars.

Visit us!

STEP BY STEP 11-13 George Arcade Broad Street South Molton North Devon, EX36 3AB www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk Telephone: 01769 574071

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Everyone deserves a Introducing the new Singer Fashion Mate machines The Singer 3333, 3337 and 3342 Fashion Mate include: ✽ Up to 32 Built-In Stitches ✽ 1-Step & 4-Step Buttonholes ✽ Built-in needle threader ✽ Top drop-in bobbin ✽ STAYBRIGHT™ LED Light ✽ Adjustable Stitch Length ✽ Heavy Duty Metal Frame ✽ Free arm ✽ On-board storage ✽ A range of free accessories

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Tradition

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A BRIEF HISTORY OF

A brief history of

KILTS As the ‘national dress of Scotland’, the kilt has been a symbol of patriotism and honour for Scots for over 500 years

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W

edding season is upon us, bringing with it beautiful dresses, smart suits and the likely presence of men in kilts.

The kilt has become synonymous with displaying Scottish heritage and patriotism at special occasions, building on centuries of cultural traditions. Kilts can be traced back to the 16th century, when they were traditionally worn by Gaelic-speaking men from the Scottish Highlands. At the time, kilts were fulllength garments that were draped over one shoulder or worn over the head as a hooded cloak-like all-in-one. They were referred to as léine, which is Gaelic for ‘shirt’, and offered warmth and protection from cold Scottish weather. This meant they were easily adaptable for different occasions. Early kilts were often plain white or brown, with tartan designs not developed until later.

By the 18th century, distinctive tartan designs were emerging, each associated with different regions or districts of the Scottish Highlands

During the first half of the 17th century the ‘small kilt’, ‘phillabeg’ or ‘feileadh-beag’ in Gaelic became more common in Scotland.

This shorter version is often referred to as the ‘walking kilt’ and was made from untailored cloth loosely gathered into folds Tartan displays Scottish and belted at the waist. It fell just above heritage and patriotism the knee and would often be accompanied at special occasions by a separate piece of matching cloth worn loosely over the shoulders. This made it easier for, you guessed it, walking in and the shorter style gained popularity was starting to emerge throughout Scotland. In the 1720s the British military around the world. even went on to adopt kilts as part of formal uniforms.

In 1822, King George IV became the first However, in the mid 18th century tension between the reigning monarch English government and Scotland was rising. In an effort to visit Scotland in to repress Highland culture and a potential political 171 years! This was uprising in the north, King George II imposed the Dress a huge occasion and Act of 1746, banning any garments resembling Highland the Scots wanted to dress, including the much-loved kilt. This harsh ruling mark the event with was designed so that the government could easily identify much celebration enemy Jacobite soldiers and supporters and meant that and pageantry. This anyone caught wearing a kilt could be imprisoned, brought about a real or even deported! demand for tartan.

What was originally While kilts began life as plain woven fabric, by the 18th The tartan we are familiar confined to Highland with today wasn't introduced century distinctive tartan designs were emerging, each until the 18th century and island cultures associated with different regions or districts of the Scottish was made the national Highlands. Colours and patterns were produced by local dress for the whole weavers to suit local tastes and readily available natural of Scotland. Scottish dyes. The earliest documented tartan dates from the 3rd clans, families and regions adopted their own individual century AD, however the woven wool fabric we recognise tartan patterns as a form of collective identity. Today as tartan, with its distinctive stripes and chequered pattern, there are more than 3,500 recognised tartan patterns, with isn’t thought to have existed until the early 18th century. each kilt containing an unbroken pattern of thread that is traditionally woven by hand. This can take up to 25 hours In the 19th century, there was a romantic revival of and is only undertaken by master weavers. Nowadays, if Highland fashion and a growing interest in tartan cloth

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Today there are more than 3,500 recognised tartan patterns, with each kilt containing an unbroken pattern of thread that is traditionally woven by hand

you’re from Scottish ancestry, you will probably have a clan tartan associated with your family name, although there are official tartans for Ireland, Wales, parts of England and countries around the world including the USA and Japan.

Phillabeg kilts, which were traditionally worn by the military up until the 1790s, were box pleated, with pleating as we know it today not introduced until the early 19th century, and the addition of tapering and more tailored styles. The Gordon Highlanders became the first regiment to use the knife pleat, and in the 1900s kilt designs had evolved to include linings and proper waistbands, as well as leather straps and buckle fastenings. Modern-day Scottish kilts can vary but they generally feature around eight yards of tartan fabric and contain 29 pleats.

Most Scottish family names will have a clan tartan

Scottish kilts were popular throughout the 19th century as a form of ceremonial dress for formal occasions such as weddings and significant cultural events like the Highland games and Burns Night. Kilts are synonymous with men’s fashion but there is also a lesser-known female version, called the arisaid, which was traditionally made from white tartan with a widespaced pattern and reached down to the ankles.

Make our simple tartan wrapover skirt.

Find the free pattern at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Each kilt contains approximately eight yards of fabric

There are many considerations to make when choosing to sew a kilt. The first is what weight you would like.

Most men choose a 16 or 17oz weight, which will drape and sit well, but there are lighterweight options better suited to summer. For other tartan garments, like waistcoats, dresses and trousers, you’ll generally want a much lighter weight fabric that will drape better.

Kilts are designed to sit on the waist, a couple of inches above the hip bone and shouldn’t cover the knees.

Most Scots wouldn’t dare wear a kilt without a few accessories, including the sgian dubh (a single-edged knife) tucked into long white socks, garter flashes to keep your socks up, a kilt pin, traditional leather ghillie brogue shoes and that all-important sporran! For that perfect finishing touch, pop a sprig of heather in your buttonhole and make sure to include a dram of whisky in your sporran. And of course, the choice of what to wear underneath your kilt is entirely up to the wearer!

FIND OUT MORE

Kilt designs have evolved to feature pleats, linings and waistbands

Discover more about the history of kilts and tartan at www.visitscotland.com To learn to make a traditional tailored kilt, head to www.askivalofstrathearn. co.uk or www.edinburghkilt makersacademy.com

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0161 707 7786 01229 823 714 01524 734 713 01253 870 470 01254 693 555 01244 394 099 01254 389 171 01706 366 943 01228 599 880 01524 261 868 0114 255 2822 01748 811593 01904 626 244 01472 343 921 0153 560 9466 01902 458 885 01522 521 841 0116 319 6930 01905 249 40 01922 497 603 0115 844 8000 0115 927 1155 0121 373 5497 01538 371 682 01743 343 902 0116 274 4730 01234 217 096 01502 714 234 01245 346 300 01206 563 955 01473 221 188 01553 773 362 01449 257 070 01792 655 928 02922 402 418 01633 284 646 01745 586 845 08006 226 224 01273 621 653 0208 236 1520 01483 267 777 01634 841 597 01268 570 248 02380 650 808 01233 612 278 01295 701 384 02086 921 077 01622 670 254 0208 4780 669 01992 640 250 01189 268 664 0207 228 3022 01227 457 723 02392 697 621 01420 544033 02085 741 750 0208 767 0036 01932 352 958 01689 638 638 01892 533 188 07547 006 618 01934 838 327 01626 369 840 01392 275 660 01722 554 466 01793 536 778 01209 216 942 01202 886 001 028 9045 6015

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SEWING ROOM

Free as a bird

Finish your makes with this large swallow patch. It would make a great addition to the back of a jacket, a bag, or even a hat. The bird measures 17cm wide (beak to tip of wing) and 11cm high (wingspan). Simply sew on by hand or machine for an eye-catching statement piece. £5.50, www.brighton babe.etsy.com

Button it!

EXCELLENT EMBELLISHENTS The finishing touches can make all the difference to your latest project

This botanical and seashore porcelain button set was designed by Caroline Barnes in the UK. Each handmade porcelain clay button is 38mm wide and decorated using platinum and coloured decals with a glazed finish. The images are created from Caroline’s illustrations and photographs, inspired by vintage prints, botanical drawings and the stunning seashore of Dorset. £10 for four, www.shopbeyondmeasure.co.uk

Fringe benefits

Tassels are the trim of the summer and we love these earthy shades of 50mm Italian woollen tassel fringe. We suggest placing them on the hem of a dress, skirt or kaftan for added boho vibes. They’ve also been seen on beach totes and scarves, so the possibilities are endless! £8.42 per metre, www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

Look sharp These ‘HANDMADE’ woven labels are 2.5cm square with extra seam allowance at the top ready to install in the neckline or side seam of your latest make. They’d add a special touch to handmade presents such as quilts, bags or children’s clothes as well as full-size garments.

Wear your craftiness with pride by adding a bronze metal brooch to your outfit. Our top pick is this pair of scissors decorated with delicate leaves and flowers. The brooch measures 60x20mm and is wonderfully detailed; there’s even a tiny screw on the hinge! It would look great on a handmade jacket.

$6 for five, www.kylieandthemachine.shop

£15.25, www.textilegarden.com

Give us a hand

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Your free

GIFT

Pick of the

BUNCH

This versatile dress from Butterick works in all kinds of fabric! I'm imagining a breezy cotton lawn version for day and red silk dress for a night out!

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Frutteria Bleu rayon from Mediterraneo, designed by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics. For your local retailer, visit www. hantex.co.uk/mystockist

We used:

Floaty fabric really shows off the panelled A-line skirt. We left off the belt carriers and sewed the neckline darts on the inside for a cleaner silhouette.

B6164

EASY/FACILE

DRESS: Dress has semi-fitted, pleated, lined bodice with darts stitched on right side of fabric, raised waist, carriers, two-piece, lined sleeves, and back zipper.

Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) Designed for lightweight woven and stable knit fabrics.

FABRICS: Challis, Crepe, Jersey, Peachskin.

Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. *With Nap. **Without Nap.

SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 A 45"*/** 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 60"*/** 2 2 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ B 45"* 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 45"** 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 60"* 1π 2 2 2∂ 2∂ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 60"** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π CONTRAST B 45"*/** π π π π π π 1 1 1 60"*/** ∫ ∫ ≥ ≥ ≥ ≥ ≥ ≥ π LINING A, B 45" π π π π π π 1 1 1 C 45"* 3∞ 3∫ 3∫ 3≥ 3≥ 4 4 4∂ 4∂ 45"** 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3≤ 3≥ 3≥ 3π 3π 60"* 2∫ 2≥ 2≥ 2π 2π 3 3∂ 3≤ 3≤ 60"** 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ LINING C 45" 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ NOTIONS: 22" Zipper, Hook and Eye, One Purchased Belt.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Back length from base of neck A, B, C 39∞ 39≥ 40 40≤ 40∞ 40≥ 41

41≤ 41∞

ROBE : Robe à corsage doublé, plissé, semi-ajusté, à pinces piquées sur l’endroit du tissu, taille haute, passants, manches en deux parties et doublées, et fermeture à glissière dos.

Séries: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) Créé pour des tricots stables et des tissus tissés de poid léger.

TISSUS: Etamine, Crêpe, Jersey, Peau de pêche.

Grandes diagonales ne conviennent pas. *Avec Sens. **Sans Sens.

TAILLES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 A 115cm*/** 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.40 3.40 3.40 3.40 150cm*/** 1.90 1.90 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.20 2.20 2.30 2.30 B 115cm* 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.90 2.90 2.90 2.90 115cm** 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 150cm* 1.80 1.90 1.90 2.00 2.00 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 150cm** 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 CONTRASTE B 115cm*/** 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 1.00 1.00 1.00 150cm*/** 0.60 0.60 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.80 DOUBLURE A, B 115cm 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 1.00 1.00 1.00 C 115cm* 3.20 3.40 3.40 3.50 3.50 3.70 3.70 3.80 3.80 115cm** 2.90 2.90 2.90 2.90 3.00 3.50 3.50 3.60 3.60 150cm* 2.40 2.60 2.60 2.70 2.70 2.80 2.90 3.00 3.00 150cm** 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.20 2.30 2.30 2.30 2.40 DOUBLURE C 115cm 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 MERCERIE: Fermeture à Glissière de 55cm, Agrafe, 1 Ceinture achetée.

MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI Longueur - dos, votre nuque à l’ourlet A, B, C 100 101 102 102 103 103 104 105 105

Gift not available in all territories B

A

C

BUTTERICK PATTERN, 120 BROADWAY, NEW YORK 10271 © 2015 The McCall Pattern Co. • www.butterick.com • PRINTED IN U.S.A. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. SOLD FOR INDIVIDUAL HOME USE ONLY AND NOT FOR COMMERCIAL OR MANUFACTURING PURPOSE RESERVE Á UN USAGE PERSONNEL.

C A B

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 ) SIZE/ TAILLE

Butterick B6164

77 58 83

Poitrine Taille Hanches

6 30∞ 23 32∞

SIZES/TAILLES Bust Waist Hip

8 31∞ 24 33∞ 80 61 85

10 32∞ 25 34∞

12 34 26∞ 36

83 64 88

87 67 92

14 36 28 38 92 71 97

16 38 30 40 97 76 102

18 40 32 42

20 42 34 44

102 81 107

Butterick

22 44 37 46

107 87 112

112 94 117

B6164

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

See page 26 for details

McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN WORTH £8.95 WITH EVERY ISSUE! Subscribe today to get a

MASTERCLASS

SWAPPING WOVENS FOR KNITS Making your free gift in jersey is easy with our top tips!

Amy says...

Remember the finished measurements are printed on the pattern tissue!

This helps you pick the perfect size

We made an easy to throw-on version out of jersey that's so comfy to wear you might not want to take it off!

We used:

PICK YOUR SIZE

Mint Ponte de Roma jersey, ÂŁ9.95 per metre www.girlcharlee.co.uk

When sewing jersey patterns you'll often find they are designed with negative ease. This means the finished measurements are significantly less than your body measurements to allow for a close fit and range of stretch. For this dress we recommend going down at least one size for jersey fabric. Take a look at the finished measurements to help you choose and pick a size with either 5-8cm of negative ease for a snug bodice.

CHOICES CHOICES Fabric choice is key here. Think double knit fabric, or cotton jersey.

The new four-way stretch fabric, such as scuba knits, are also good. Avoid really stretchy fabric that has Lycra or Spandex in it (these are designed for very close-fitting garments and are often slippery).

DIRECTION OF STRETCH Remember to pay attention to the direction of stretch for your fabric, this will probably be at 90° to the grain line but sometimes jersey can be equally or more stretchy on the lengthways grain, so keep this in mind as you lay out your pattern pieces.

SKIP THE ZIP One of the fabulous things about jersey garments is that you can throw them on without the need for closures! So forget that zipper. You can either cut the bodice back and lining back on the fold (after removing the seam allowance) or just sew them up as a centre back seam. Easy peasy!

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M7755

Available from fabric stores and websites countrywide.

Or visit www.sewdirect.com

The New Romantics LS53.P22.indd 22 McCall's advertisement Love Sewing Issue 53indd.indd 1

19/04/2018 19/04/2018 16:39 14:51

tunique et robe HAUTS, TUNIQUE ET ROBE : Hauts, tops, et variations de manche. A: TOPS, TUNIC AND DRESS: Pullover par la tête, à élastique sur les épaules shoulders and sleeve à passer tunic, and dress have elastic on Bretelles. C: Ligne d’ourlet en forme. túnica y hemline.

JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: Tops, variations. A: Straps. C: Shaped TOPS, TÚNICA Y VESTIDO PARA con elástico en los hombros y variaciones vestido para ponerse por la cabeza, dobladillo con forma. de manga. A: Tiras. C: Línea de ZZ(G/G-TG/XG-TTG/XXG) Séries/Combinaciones: Y(TP/XP-P/P-M/M), Cotonnade, Etamine, Satinette.

TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Chambray, de Combinations: Y(XS-S-M), ZZ(L-XL-XXL) Mezclas de algodón, Chalís, Satén Cotton Blends, Challis, Sateen.

TELAS SUGERIDAS: Chambray, SUGGESTED FABRICS: Chambray, algodón.

TG/XG TTG/XXG G/G M/M P/P TAILLES/TALLAS TP/XP 24-26 XXL XL 12-14 16-18 20-22 L 8-10 M 4-6 S XS m SIZES 1.50 1.50 24-26 1.30 1.20 16-18 20-22 1.20 12-14 1.20 8-10 4-6 A 115cm*** m 1.20 Yds. 1.00 1∫ 1.00 1∫ 1.00 1∑ 1.00 1≤ 1.00 1≤ 1≤ 150cm** m A 45"*** " 1.90 1.90 1≤ 1.90 1 1.40 1 1.40 1 1.30 1 1 B 115cm*** m 60"*** 1.30 Yds. 1.30 2 1.30 2 1.30 2 1.30 1∞ 1.30 1∞ 1∑ 150cm*** m B 45"*** " 2.80 2.70 1∑ 2.60 1∑ 2.60 1∑ 2.10 1∑ 1.90 1∑ 1∑ C 115cm*** m 60"*** 1.90 Yds. 1.90 3 1.90 2π 1.90 2≥ 1.60 2≥ 1.60 2≤ 2 150cm*** m C 45"*** " 2.60 2.60 2 2.60 2 2.00 2 2.00 2 2.00 1≥ 1≥ D 115cm*** m 60"*** 2.00 Yds. 2.00 2≥ 2.00 2≥ 1.60 2≥ 1.60 2∂ 1.50 2∂ 2∂ 150cm*** D 45"*** pour D. " 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ de 2cm: 1.40m pour A, B, C, 2.30m 1≥ 1≥ 1∫ MERCERIE: A, B, C, D: Élastique 60"*** para D. D. de 2cm: 1.40m para A, B, C, 2.30m 1∞ yds. for A, B, C, 2∞ yds. for MERCERÍA: A, B, C, D: Elástico NOTIONS: A, B, C, D: ≥" Elastic: DE LA PRENDA ACABADA MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS de busto Mesure à la poitrine/Contorno cm 131 121 110 100 92 87 A, B, C, D Ins. 51∞ 47∞ de caderas Mesure aux hanches/Contorno cm 146 136 126 116 107 102 C, D " 57∞ caderas Largeur à l’ourlet/Contorno de cm 146 136 126 116 107 102 A, B cm 160 150 140 130 121 116 C cm 161 151 141 131 122 117 D la nuca l’ourlet/Largo de espalda desde Longueur - dos, votre nuque a cm 61 59 58 57 55 54 A, B cm 86 85 83 82 81 80 C cm 99 98 97 95 94 93 D

LS53.P23.indd 23

24/04/2018 15:06 M7543

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23

53∞

23≥ 33≥ 39

23≤ 33≤ 38∞

57∞ 63 63∞

53∞ 59 59∞

" " "

" " "

or Without Nap *With Nap **Without Nap ***With

*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec

Pelillo ***Con o ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin

Sin Pelillo

M7543

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at bustline 43∞ 39∞ 36 34 A, B, C, D Measurement at hipline 49∞ 45∞ 42 40 C, D Width, lower edge 49∞ 45∞ 42 40 A, B 55 51 47∞ 45∞ C 55∞ 51∞ 48 46 D Back length from base of neck 22≥ 22≤ 21≥ 21≤ A, B 32≥ 32≤ 31≥ 31≤ C 38 37∞ 37 36∞ D

www.instagram.com/verykerryberry B

A

C

D

Say hi to Kerry at

B A C

D

Marca Registrada Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Copyright© 2017, The McCall Pattern not for commercial or manufacturing interdite.

Sold for individual home use only and commerciale ou industrielle strictement Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation

M7543_ENV

Y/ ZZ

(Xsm-XXL) (4 -26)

C

Size Taille Talla

A D B

In issue 54 Alex of Sew Happy reviews M7543

D

M7543

A DEL CUERPO XXL BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/MEDIDAS XL L M S XS SIZES 24-26 20-22 16-18 12-14 8-10 4-6 46-48 Ins. 42-44 38-40 29∞-30∞ 31∞-32∞ 34-36 Bust 39-41∞ Ins. 34-37 30-32 26∞-28 24-25 22-23 Waist 48-50 Ins. 44-46 40-42 31∞-32∞ 33∞-34∞ 36-38 Hip 17≥-18 Ins. 15≥-16 16≤-16∞ 16≥-17 17≤-17∞ Back Waist Length 15≤-15∞ TG/XG TTG/XXG G/G M/M P/P TP/XP TAILLES/TALLAS 24-26 20-22 16-18 12-14 8-10 4-6 97-102 107-112 117-122 cm 87-92 80-83 75-77 Poitrine/Busto 99-105 cm 87-94 76-81 67-71 61-64 56-58 Taille/Cintura 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm 92-97 85-88 80-83 Hanches/Caderas Longueur dos/Largo espalda 44-44.5 45-45.5 cm 39-39.5 40-40.5 41.5-42 42.5-43

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

ungaree dresses and overalls feature heavily in my wardrobe so I couldn’t wait to stitch up McCall’s 7547. It’s a fitted, jeans-style overall with lots of options to mix and match and get the look you want. I chose view D overalls with tapered legs and straightened them a little so I could roll up the hem. The fabric recommendations are for stretch woven fabric and, after making a quick test version, I could see there was only a small amount of ease so I went for a medium-weight, stretch cotton sateen from www.fabricgodmother. co.uk with a glorious bold floral print! There are plenty of options on the website for this pattern.

M7547

Jeans et salopettes JEANS ET SALOPETTES: jeans latérale à fermeture sous-patte, JEANS AND OVERALLS: Close-fitting fausse braguette devant, ouverture lapped zipper side moulants à Passants. C, D: Kit de boucle and overalls have faux fly front, et variations de jambe. A, B, C: variations. A, B, C: poche plaquée opening, patch pocket, and leg acheté pour salopette. buckle kit.

Y SEÑORAS: Jeans y overoles ceñiCarriers. C, D: Purchased overall JEANS Y OVEROLES PARA JÓVENES bolsilfrente, abertura lateral con cremallera, dos con bragueta simulada en el Kit de A, B, C: Presillas de correa. C, D: lo de parche y variaciones de pierna. hebilla comprada para overol.

E5(14-16-18-20-22) Séries/Combinaciones: A5(6-8-10-12-14), Tissus tissés extensibles, Twill, extensible, E5(14-16-18-20-22) TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Denim Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), Denim, Stretch Wovens, Twill, Denim.

Denim.

Twill, SUGGESTED FABRICS: Stretch extensible, Telas tejidas extensibles, TELAS SUGERIDAS: Denim Denim.

22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 TAILLES/TALLAS 6 22 20 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 m 18 16 14 12 10 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 8 6 SIZES Yds. A 115cm* 2.20 2.30 2.30 2.40 m 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 1.90 1.90 1.90 1.90 2.20 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 150cm* A 45"* " 2.40 2.40 m 2.40 2.40 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ 2 2 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2 2 60"* Yds. B 115cm* 2.00 2.20 2.30 2.40 m 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.90 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 150cm* B 45"* " 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.80 m 2∂ 2∑ 2∞ 2∫ 1.20 1.20 1.30 1.30 1.30 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 2 60"* Yds. C 115cm* 1.10 1.30 1.30 1.30 m 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1π 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 150cm* C 45"* " 2.60 3.00 3.00 3.00 m 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1 60"* Yds. D 115cm* 2.30 2.30 2.40 2.40 m 2≥ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 150cm* B, C, D 45"* " 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ 2∫ RETELA TERMOADHESIVA A, 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/ENT 60"* 1.10 1.20 1.20 1.30 m D 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.10 1.10 FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B, C, Yds. D 46, 51cm 1∑ 1 Bouton de 16mm.

1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1≤ 1≤ 1 Fermeture à glissière de 18cm, 1 1 18", 20" 1 Pair of MERCERIE: A, B, C, D: à boutons sans couture.

Zipper, One ∫" Button. C, D: One C, D: 1 paire de Boucles de salopette 1 par NOTIONS: A, B, C, D: One 7" de 18cm, 1 Botón de 16mm. C, D: MERCERÍA: A, B, C, D: 1 Cremallera Overall Buckles with No-sew Buttons. de aplicación sin costura. de Hebillas para overol con botones DE LA PRENDA ACABADA MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS de caderas Mesure aux hanches/Contorno 103 108 113 118 123 cm 98 94 92 89 A, B, C, D cada pierna Largeur, chaque jambe/Ancho, 64 cm 62 61 60 59 57 56 55 54 A, D 41 cm 40 38 37 36 34 33 32 31 B, C del costado desde la cintura Longueur - côté, taille à l’ourlet/Largo 107 107 107 107 cm 107 107 107 107 107 A, D 99 cm 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 B 33 cm 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 C o Sin Pelillo FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at hipline 48∞ 38∞ 40∞ 42∞ 44∞ 46∞ 37 36 A, B, C, D 35 Width, each leg 21∞ 22 21 A, D 12∞ 13 12 B, C Side length from waist 42 42 42 A, D 39 39 39 B 13 13 13 C

22∞ 23 13∞ 14 42 39 13

42 39 13

or Without Nap *With Nap **Without Nap ***With

23∞ 24 14∞ 15 42 39 13

42 39 13

24∞ 25 15∞ 16 42 39 13

42 39 13

Ins. " "

" " "

*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec

C

Pelillo ***Con ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin

M7547

As the sateen was quite stretchy, I interlined the front and back bibs with Liberty lawn for extra stability and to avoid wavy edges.

Only minor fitting changes were required – I reduced the inner leg seams towards the top, as the low crotch area was a bit baggy, and raised the back pockets slightly.

The tapered leg length isn’t long – I’m 5’ 5” and they were just long enough. The biggest alteration I made was to omit the ease stitching at the waist and lengthen the waistband to lower the waistline a little and create the slightly slouchy fit I was after. Combined with the stretch sateen fabric, this makes them super comfortable to wear!

M7543

When cutting out, I added 4” to the strap lengths and 2½” to the waistband to give me extra room to play with. There are lots of marks to transfer for pockets and seam alignment so, to avoid confusion, I used tailor’s tacks for one and chalk pencil for the other, I’d recommend sewing some top-stitching samples and making a note of your stitch length and any other settings for consistency. I prepped all the pockets at the same time using a Hera marker (a handy quilting tool that makes a sharp crease) to mark the turning lines on all the pocket C

B

B

A

A

D

D

Marca Registrada Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Copyright© 2017, The McCall Pattern not for commercial or manufacturing interdite.

Sold for individual home use only and commerciale ou industrielle strictement Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation

M7547

M7547_ENV

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

D

SIZE/ TAILLE

A B C

outer edges. It’s also worth taking the extra time to baste the pockets to keep everything symmetrical. The instructions don’t state when seams are neatened so it helps to read ahead and plan accordingly.

D

RES/MEDIDAS DEL CUERPO BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESU 18 14 16 10 12 8 6 SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS 40 36 38 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 Bust 32 25 26∞ 28 30 23 24 Waist 42 38 40 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 Hip 17 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ Back Waist Length 102 92 97 83 87 77 80 Poitrine/Busto 81 71 76 64 67 58 61 Taille/Cintura 97 102 107 88 92 83 85 Hanches/Caderas 40.5 41.5 42 42.5 43 40 Longueur dos/Largo espalda 39.5

Kerry Green, Love Sewing columnist and quilter extraordinaire, shares her version of this issue’s McCall's free gift

22 20 44 Ins. 42 37 Ins. 34 46 Ins. 44 17≤ 17∞ Ins. 107 112 cm 94 cm 87 112 117 cm 44.5 cm 44

M7547

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

eview eader R7547 RMcCall's

24 dungarees.indd 24

24/04/2018 15:15

24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Dotty black stretch denim 3% stretch, £14 per metre www.thedenimcompany.co.uk M7547

JEANS AND OVERALLS: Close-fitting jeans JEANS ET SALOPETTES: Jeans et salopettes and overalls have faux fly front, lapped zipper side moulants à fausse braguette devant, ouverture latérale à fermeture sous-patte, opening, patch pocket, and leg variations. A, B, C: poche plaquée et variations de jambe. A, B, C: Passants. C, D: Kit de boucle Carriers. C, D: Purchased overall buckle kit. acheté pour salopette.

JEANS Y OVEROLES PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: Jeans y overoles ceñidos con bragueta simulada en el frente, abertura lateral con cremallera, bolsillo de parche y variaciones de pierna. A, B, C: Presillas de correa. C, D: Kit de hebilla comprada para overol.

We used:

Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) Séries/Combinaciones: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) SUGGESTED FABRICS: Stretch Denim, Stretch Wovens, Twill, Denim.

TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Denim extensible, Tissus tissés extensibles, Twill, Denim.

TELAS SUGERIDAS: Denim extensible, Telas tejidas extensibles, Twill, Denim.

SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 TAILLES/TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 A 45"* 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ Yds. A 115cm* 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 m 60"* 2 2 2 2 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ " 150cm* 1.90 1.90 1.90 1.90 2.20 2.20 2.30 2.30 2.40 m B 45"* 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ Yds. B 115cm* 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 m 60"* 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 2 2∂ 2∑ 2∞ 2∫ " 150cm* 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.90 2.00 2.20 2.30 2.40 m C 45"* 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1π Yds. C 115cm* 1.20 1.20 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.80 m 60"* 1 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ " 150cm* 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.30 1.30 1.30 m D 45"* 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ Yds. D 115cm* 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 3.00 3.00 3.00 m 60"* 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ 2∫ " 150cm* 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.30 2.30 2.40 2.40 m FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B, C, D ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA A, B, C, 18", 20" 1 1 1 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ Yds. D 46, 51cm 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.20 1.20 1.30 m NOTIONS: A, B, C, D: One 7" Zipper, One ∫" Button. C, D: One Pair of MERCERIE: A, B, C, D: 1 Fermeture à glissière de 18cm, 1 Bouton de 16mm.

Overall Buckles with No-sew Buttons.

C, D: 1 paire de Boucles de salopette à boutons sans couture.

MERCERÍA: A, B, C, D: 1 Cremallera de 18cm, 1 Botón de 16mm. C, D: 1 par de Hebillas para overol con botones de aplicación sin costura.

MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA PRENDA ACABADA Mesure aux hanches/Contorno de caderas A, B, C, D 89 92 94 98 103 108 113 118 123 cm Largeur, chaque jambe/Ancho, cada pierna A, D 54 55 56 57 59 60 61 62 64 cm B, C 31 32 33 34 36 37 38 40 41 cm Longueur - côté, taille à l’ourlet/Largo del costado desde la cintura A, D 107 107 107 107 107 107 107 107 107 cm B 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 cm 33 33 33 33 cm C 33 33 33 33 33

Wearing a head-to-toe print can be daunting, so why not try a subtle design on a dark base, like these chic micro polka dots?

B

A

Ins. " "

" " "

*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin Pelillo ***Con o Sin Pelillo

M7547

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at hipline A, B, C, D 35 36 37 38∞ 40∞ 42∞ 44∞ 46∞ 48∞ Width, each leg A, D 21 21∞ 22 22∞ 23 23∞ 24 24∞ 25 B, C 12 12∞ 13 13∞ 14 14∞ 15 15∞ 16 Side length from waist A, D 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 B 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 C 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 13

*With Nap **Without Nap ***With or Without Nap

C

A

C

VIEW D

B

D

D

Copyright© 2017, The McCall Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. Marca Registrada Sold for individual home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation commerciale ou industrielle strictement interdite.

A

M7547_ENV

M7547

SIZE/ TAILLE

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

D

B C BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/MEDIDAS DEL CUERPO SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Bust 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 36 38 40 Waist 23 24 25 26∞ 28 30 32 Hip 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 38 40 42 Back Waist Length 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ 17 Poitrine/Busto 77 80 Taille/Cintura 58 61 Hanches/Caderas 83 85 Longueur dos/Largo espalda 39.5 40

M7547

83 87 92 64 67 71 88 92 97 40.5 41.5 42

20 22 42 44 Ins. 34 37 Ins. 44 46 Ins. 17≤ 17∞ Ins.

97 102 107 112 cm 76 81 87 94 cm 102 107 112 117 cm 42.5 43 44 44.5 cm

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

Dungarees don’t need to be scary!

This multi-view pattern pack shows you how to rock the dungaree trend or make yourself a chic pair of jeans.

Every McCall's pattern comes with a helpful step-by-step guide, designed to push your sewing skills further

OVERALL winner GIFT Your free

MASTERCLASS

GREAT FITTING JEANS Most of us have a pair of stretchy jeans that fit us amazingly well and worry we couldn't recreate this at home.

This tutorial helps you copy elements you love to your handmade jeans!

Using your free pattern gift, we'll show you how to transfer design elements from your favourite pair of stretchy jeans to create the perfect fit and silhouette.

First decide if you're going to trace a full copy of the pattern sheet to make your alterations on or simply draw straight onto the tissue.

This depends on whether you're likely to miss the original templates once you've altered them.

Start with the lower leg width of your favourite trousers. Measure the front and back legs, account for seam allowance and record the numbers. Write down the corresponding measurement from the flat tissue pieces.

Repeat at the thigh and knee points. If the difference is more than 1 or 2" you may have to work from a different base size line for the pattern.

Turn the trousers inside out and slide one leg inside the other. You will now be able to see the crotch curve. Measure the front and back curves separately, and record the figures, accounting for seam allowance. Remember on these McCall's trousers, the faux-fly

front is not the curve; you need to measure the centre front stitching line. See the right-hand side of the below photo, of inside our Capri trousers.

You will also want to compare the angle of the crotch curves.

This can make a huge difference to your comfort and can create unsightly drag lines if there's not enough space. These drag lines shouldn't be mistaken for general wearing ease! You're gong to want enough space to bend your legs.

Measure the length from the inside crotch point, accounting for seam and hem allowance. Record this number too.

Alter the pattern by tapering the front and back legs at the outer side seam as required for the thigh, knee and lower leg.

Adjust the crotch curve on the pattern so it matches both the shape you require and the length.

The best place to increase length is at the most curved portion of the crotch line as a few mm drop gives a surprising amount of extra length. The reverse is also true.

Trouser length is of course totally subjective but for a close fitting jean finishing at the ankle point is flattering for slip-on shoes and the top of the foot is best for wider or flared styles.

Sew a test garment in a similar weight fabric with the same amount of stretch to check your amendments.

VIEW B We love these not-too-skinny, close-fit jeans. The high waist hugs you nicely and the length is perfect for wearing with summer sandals

We used:

Cross stretch blue denim, ÂŁ18 per metre www. fabricgodmother.co.uk

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SAVE money on every issue FREE delivery direct to your door NEVER miss an issue BE THE FIRST to read Love Sewing FREE pattern worth over £8 from The McCall Pattern company with every issue Exclusive promise to offer BRANDED PATTERNS in the widest size range The BEST tutorials and projects from industry experts including Wendy Gardiner and Alison Smith MBE BUILD your ultimate pattern collection NEVER be short of sewing inspiration again SPREAD the COST with a Direct Debit M7547

JEANS AND OVERALLS: Close-fitting and overalls jeans have faux fly opening, patch front, lapped JEANS ET zipper side pocket, and SALOPETTES: Carriers. C, moulants à fausse leg variations Jeans et salopette D: Purchase braguette devant, d overall buckle . A, B, C: poche plaquée s ouverture latérale kit. et variations acheté pour à de fermeture jambe. A, B, sous-patte, salopette C: Passants JEANS Y OVEROL . . C, D: Kit de boucle dos con bragueta ES PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORA simulada S: Jeans y overoles lo de parche en el frente, Combinations: abertura lateral y variaciones A5(6-8-10-12-14), ceñide pierna. A, hebilla comprada SUGGESTED B, C: Presillas con cremallera, bolsilFABRICS: Stretch E5(14-16-18-20-22) para overol. de correa. C, Denim, Stretch D: Kit de Wovens, Twill, Séries/Combinacio Denim.

TISSUS CONSEILnes: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22 LÉS: Denim Denim.

SIZES extensible, 6 Tissus tissés ) 8 TELAS SUGERID 10 A 45"* extensibles, 12 14 2≥ 2≥ Twill, AS: Denim 16 18 Denim.

2≥ 2≥ 60"* extensible, 20 22 2≥ 2≥ 2 Telas tejidas 2 2≥ 2≥ TAILLES 2 B 45"* extensibles, 2 2≥ 2∑ 2∑ 2∫ 2∫ Twill, Yds. A 115cm*/TALLAS 6 8 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ 2∫ 60"* 10 12 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 1∫ 14 2.60 1∫ " 16 2.60 2∫ 1∫ 1∫ C 45"* 150cm* 18 2.60 2∫ 2∫ 20 2.60 2.60 2 1≤ 1≤ 22 1.90 1.90 2∂ 2∑ Yds. B 115cm* 2.60 2.60 1∑ 1∑ 1.90 1.90 60"* 2∞ 2∫ 2.60 2.60 m 1∑ 1∫ 1 2.20 2.20 2.40 2.40 1∂ 1∂ " 1∫ 1≥ D 45"* 150cm* 2.30 2.30 2.40 2.40 1∂ 1∂ 1π 2≥ 2≥ 2.40 m 2.40 2.40 1.50 1.50 1∂ 1∑ Yds. C 115cm* 2≥ 2≥ 2.40 2.40 1.50 1.50 60"* 1∑ 1∑ 2≥ 2≥ 2∂ 2.40 m 1.90 2.00 1.20 1.20 " 3≤ 3≤ FUSIBLE INTERFA2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 150cm* 2.20 2.30 1.30 1.30 3≤ 2.40 m 1.30 1.50 1.00 1.10 2∞ 2∞ Yds. D 115cm* CING A, B, 1.50 1.60 1.10 1.10 18", 20" 1 2∫ 2∫ C, D 1.80 m 1.10 1.10 2.60 2.60 1 " 1 NOTIONS: 150cm* 1.30 1.30 2.60 2.60 1∂ 1∂ A, B, 1.30 m 2.60 2.60 2.00 2.00 1∂ 1≤ ENTOILAGE Overall Buckles C, D: One 7" Zipper, 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 1≤ 1∑ THERMO 3.00 m One 2.00 with Yds. ∫" No-sew Buttons.

COLLAN Button. C, D: D 46, 51cm T/ENTRETELA 2.30 2.30 2.40 2.40 One Pair of 1.00 1.00 m TERMOADHESIVA MERCERIE: 1.00 1.10 A, B, C, D: 1 A, B, C, 1.10 1.10 Fermetur C, D: 1.20 1 paire e 1.20 à glissière de de Boucles 18cm, 1 Bouton 1.30 m de salopette MERCERÍA: à boutons sans de 16mm.

A, B, C, D: 1 Cremallera de de Hebillas couture. para overol 18cm, 1 Botón con MESURES botones de 16mm. C, de aplicación DU VÊTEME D: 1 par sin NT FINI/MED Mesure aux IDAS DE LA costura. hanches/Contorn Ins. A, B, PRENDA o C, de ACABAD D caderas A 92 Largeur, chaque 89 94 98 103 108 jambe/Ancho, A, D 113 118 cada pierna 123 cm 54 55 B, C 56 57 59 31 60 32 Longueur 61 33 62 34 côté, taille 64 cm 36 37 à l’ourlet/Largo A, D 38 40 del costado 41 107 107 desde la cintura cm B 107 107 107 107 99 99 C 107 107 99 99 107 cm 99 33 99 33 99 33 99 33 **Sans Sens 99 cm 33 ***Avec ou Sans 33 33 33 Sens *Con 33 cm Pelillo **Sin Pelillo

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M7547

FINISHED GARMEN T MEASUR Measurement EMENTS at hipline A, B, C, D 35 36 37 Width, each 38∞ 40∞ leg 42∞ 44∞ A, D 46∞ 48∞ 21 21∞ 22 B, C 22∞ 23 12 23∞ 24 12∞ 13 Side length 24∞ 25 13∞ 14 from waist 14∞ 15 A, D 15∞ 16 42 42 42 B 42 42 39 42 39 42 39 C 42 39 42 39 13 39 39 39 39 13 13 13 13

13 13 *With Nap **Without 13 13 Nap ***With or Without Nap

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SIZE/ TAILLE

EASY/FACILE

plissé, semi-ajusté, ROBE : Robe à corsage doublé, tissu, taille haute, passants, pleated, lined bodice sur l’endroit du DRESS: Dress has semi-fitted, à glissière carriers, à pinces piquées et doublées, et fermeture side of fabric, raised waist, manches en deux parties with darts stitched on right back zipper. dos. two-piece, lined sleeves, and E5(14-16-18-20-22) Séries: A5(6-8-10-12-14), et des tissus tissés de poid E5(14-16-18-20-22) Créé pour des tricots stables Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), and stable knit fabrics. woven léger.

Designed for lightweight Jersey, Peau de pêche.

Jersey, Peachskin.

TISSUS: Etamine, Crêpe, FABRICS: Challis, Crepe, pas.

Grandes diagonales ne conviennent Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. *Avec Sens. **Sans Sens. *With Nap. **Without Nap. 20 22 10 12 14 16 18 8 6 TAILLES 3.40 20 22 3.00 3.00 3.40 3.40 3.40 10 12 14 16 18 8 6 A 115cm*/** 3.00 3.00 3.00 2.30 SIZES 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 2.10 2.10 2.20 2.20 2.30 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 150cm*/** 1.90 1.90 2.10 2.90 A 45"*/** 2∞ 2∞ 2.60 2.60 2.90 2.90 2.90 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ 2∑ 2 2 B 115cm* 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.20 60"*/** 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 115cm** 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 B 45"* 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2.00 2.00 2.20 2.20 2.20 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 150cm* 1.80 1.90 1.90 1.80 45"** 2∑ 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 2∂ 2∂ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2 1π 2 150cm** 1.50 1.50 1.50 60"* 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1≥ CONTRASTE B 1.00 60"** 0.80 0.80 0.80 1.00 1.00 115cm*/** 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 CONTRAST B 1 1 1 π π 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 π π π π 150cm*/** 0.60 0.60 0.70 45"*/** π ≥ ≥ ≥ ≥ ≥ ≥ ∫ ∫ DOUBLURE A, B 60"*/** 0.80 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 115cm 3.80 LINING A, B 1 1 1 π π 3.50 3.50 3.70 3.70 3.80 π π π π C 115cm* 3.20 3.40 3.40 45" 4∂ 4∂ 3.50 3.60 3.60 4 3.50 4 3.00 2.90 3∞ 3∫ 3∫ 3≥ 3≥ 115cm** 2.90 2.90 2.90 3.00 C 45"* 3≥ 3≥ 3π 3π 2.70 2.70 2.80 2.90 3.00 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3≤ 150cm* 2.40 2.60 2.60 2.40 45"** 3∂ 3≤ 3≤ 3 2.10 2.20 2.30 2.30 2.30 2∫ 2≥ 2≥ 2π 2π 150cm** 2.10 2.10 2.10 60"* 2∞ 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ DOUBLURE C 60"** 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 115cm LINING C 1 Ceinture 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ Glissière de 55cm, Agrafe, 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ MERCERIE: Fermeture à 45" and Eye, One Purchased Belt. achetée.

NOTIONS: 22" Zipper, Hook FINI MESURES DU VÊTEMENT à l’ourlet Longueur - dos, votre nuque FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS 103 104 105 105 neck 100 101 102 102 103 B, C Back length from base of 40≥ 41 41≤ 41∞ A, 39∞ 39≥ 40 40≤ 40∞ A, B, C

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BODY MEASUR EMENTS/MESURE SIZES/TAILLES/TA S/MEDIDAS LLAS DEL CUERPO Bust 6 8 10 14 16 Waist 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 12 18 20 22 34 36 38 Hip 23 24 25 40 42 44 Ins. 26∞ 28 Back 32∞ 30 Waist 33∞ 32 Length 34∞ 36 34 37 Ins. 38 40 15∞ 15≥ 16 42 44 46 Ins. 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ 17 17≤ 17∞ Ins. 77 80 83 87 92 97 58 61 64 102 107 67 112 cm 71 76 83 85 88 81 87 94 cm 92 espalda 39.5 40 40.5 41.5 97 102 107 112 117 cm 42 42.5 43 44 44.5 cm

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19/04/2018 14:34

THE GIRL WITH THE BRIGHT

Jade Jade Earley was a finalist on The Great British Sewing Bee 2016 where she shared her love for sewing with the world. Follow her adventures online at www. thegirlwiththebrightredhair.co.uk

M

ore has changed in my life over the past four months than it may have done in my entire life... Through the highs and lows the one thing that keeps me going is sewing. Isn't it amazing how a hobby like sewing can do that? You’ve just got to look around you and find as many ideas as you can. Forget the notion that inspiration will come to you like a flash of lightning, you have to seek it out!

To keep myself inspired I am always looking at books, magazines, social media, websites and even celebrities and storing everything away for later.

r i a h Red

This issue Jade is helping get the creative juices flowing and chatting about inspiration

I know it’s been said before but social media is a wonderful tool for finding new and exciting ideas. Whether it’s in-progress garments from your favourite seamstresses or celebrities posing in new outfits, there is a constant influx of posts.

Remember sites like Pinterest and Instagram can also save the images for later so you will always have your ideas at hand when you need them!

Inspiration is contagious, so read posts from those whose creativity, innovation and/or entrepreneurship you admire, and let their examples influence you. Turn on notifications from your favourite accounts. You can also search new hashtags; for example #styleoftheday, #couturesewing or even #sewingbee now that our favourite show is on its way back!

And keep the conversation going by chatting online; there is nothing more satisfying than sharing your passion with a group of like-minded peers.

I also find clothing websites very inspiring; eg Pretty Little Thing, Topshop, River Island and so on.

Looking at trendy, up-to-date, stylish and fashionable clothing makes me consider ways to work prints and styles into my handmade wardrobe. I am always searching on the websites to see what has just come out or what have been recent bestsellers. Looking at how people around me are styling

© River Island

ABOUT

Let your favourite fashion brands inspire you, even if you make the garments yourself!

their outfits provides me with inspiration every day as well. Strangers in the street are projecting new ideas to people without realising it! Just think, what you’re wearing right now could be inspiring someone to make a new outfit or to style their outfit differently.

It’s important to find time for seeking inspiration and getting your creative juices flowing but it needs to work for you. It’s the best way to avoid a loss of sew-jo down the line! I’m going to go look for some inspiration right now.

! g n i w e s n o p e Ke

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We love

QUILTS

Perks of being a WALLFLOWER Use simple patchwork and appliqué techniques to create an eye-catching piece of floral wall art from delicate Liberty prints Project SEDEF IMER

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 6½" square grey linen/cotton • 6½" lightweight polka-dot cotton • 6½" lightweight floral-print cotton • 3½" square floral lawn or lightweight cotton for rose appliqué • 2x3½" floral lawn or lightweight cotton for the leaves • 6½" square fusible webbing • 2 10" pieces of ribbon or cotton tape for ties • 12½" square grey linen for backing • 12½" square wadding • white DMC Perle cotton no.8 • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: A scant ¼" seam allowance is used throughout unless otherwise statedThis project is best cut out using a rotary cutter, self-healing mat and quilting ruler

FINISHED SIZE: The completed hanging measures 12" square

ABOUT THE BOOK

Shopping list A range of Liberty of London fabric is available from www.alicecaroline.co.uk

Quilt Petite by Sedef Imer, £14.95.

Adapted with permission from www.tuvapublishing.co.uk

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CUTTING:

Trace the outer edge of the rose stencil on the back of the floral fabric. Remove the stencil and draw a second line approximately Âź" further away and outwards from the rose outline.

Cut the rose shape on the second line. Repeat this process for the leaves.

Peel off the backing paper on the linen square. Place the 6½" square of muslin on the ironing board, position the lawn petals and leaves on top, RS facing up, and finally the line, RS facing up.

Adjust so that it matches the correct positions without any muslin showing through.

Press with a hot iron to fuse together.

HOW TO MAKE: Using a short stitch length Fuse the fusible web to the and white thread, stitch back of the grey linen. around each petal and leaf on Using the rose template, the grey fabric, approximately cut out the petals and leaves, 1â „8" from where it meets the creating a stencil. Use sharpfloral fabric underneath.

Sew the A pieces to the tipped scissors for more right and left of the rose, B accurate cutting. pieces on the top and Place the linen bottom and then piece RS facing C pieces on the down on a flat right and left. surface, with Continue the paper in alphabetical backing For precise stencil cutting, order until of the use sharp scissors to make all the pieces fusible web a point in the centre of the of the quilt facing up. shape and carefully cut top are sewn Place the from the middle together. stencil over The final it upside down, pieces to be sewn and trace around will be the H pieces on the the stencil with a fabric top and bottom of the quilt marker, drawing the rose and top. Press seams open as petal shapes on the back of you go. the linen square.

Place the ribbon on the top Place the floral rose fabric edge of the quilt top, 4" in from on a flat surface, RS facing each corner and baste in place down. Place the stencil over with 1â „8" seam allowance. it, upside down.

From red floral fabric, cut: • petal templates • 2 1Ÿx6½" strips for A border pieces • 2 1Ÿx8" strips for B border pieces From white polka dot fabric, cut: • 2 1Ÿx8" strips for C border pieces • 2 1Ÿx9½" strips for D border pieces From blue floral fabric, cut: • leaf templates • 2 1Ÿx9½" strips for E border pieces • 2 1Ÿx11" strips for F border pieces From grey linen, cut: • 2 1Ÿx11" strips for G border pieces • 2 1Ÿx12½" strips for H border pieces

Amy says...

I recommend using Liberty here because the colours are beautiful and the scale of prints are perfectly sized

Top tip

Make the quilt sandwich, with the wadding in the centre and backing below.

Make sure the ribbon is neatly positioned inside the sandwich facing the centre.

Sew with a Âź" seam allowance all the way around, leaving a 4" opening.

Clip the corners and turn inside out through

the opening. Arrange the fabric at the opening carefully and press with a hot iron to fix them in place.

Blind-stitch the opening closed and hand-quilt with DMC Perle cotton around the perimeter of the grey linen and around each border to finish.

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This month 1'm making

Hila used McCall's 6044 which includes four styles of classic men's shirts

Hila takes us on a tropical adventure with this shirt for her husband! To see more of Hila's fabulous makes, visit her blog www.saturdaynightstitch.com

T

his project was a joy and pleasure to sew up. The story of this project began with the fabric – the moment I saw the Ralph Lauren cotton/linen mix, it was love at first sight. I knew it would be fabulous in whatever form it would become.

The colours are incredibly vibrant with popping oranges and pinks against a blue background, not to mention the dragons among the punchy hibiscus. I love it!

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabrics and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities.

Each blogger's unique kits are available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com

I love linen but it does crease very easily. This particular linen is mixed with cotton, which reduces the wrinkle factor. The surface of the fabric has a lovely texture, which I have tried to capture in the close-up picture.

I settled on making a men's shirt – it reminded me of tropical beaches and Hawaiian shirts. I used my tried-and-tested McCall’s 6044, Men’s Shirts pattern (I have made this five times already).

My husband is a size large based on his chest measurements and I thought the pattern sizing was fairly accurate. The shirt is designed to be a relaxed fit. After making a toile I had to grade from a large at the neck and shoulder to a medium at the waist and below. I'd always advise making a toile when sewing for another person. Since I am

Hila says...

I highly recommend this pattern, even for a novice.

The flat constructed sleeves make it a breeze!

Dragon & flower-print linen & cotton mix, £11.99 per metre.

McCall's 6044 £9.25. Both from www.minervacrafts.com

quite experienced with this pattern it sewed up quickly, especially with the short sleeves. It was the first men's shirt pattern I have ever made and I would highly recommend it even for a novice. The flat constructed sleeves make it a breeze to sew.

The seams were all finished with faux flat-fell seams – I overlock the seam, press and top-stitch on the right side. On the outside it looks like flat felling.

I finished by hand-sewing the buttons. I love wooden buttons, they lend a certain gravitas to any project. My husband can't wait to wear his shirt to work on Friday. Win!

32 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Decorate

ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com

M

WITH THREAD Wendy shares her expert tips for creating designs that are uniquely yours with decorative thread and stitches

come with a whole range of lovely decorative stitches, and you can play around with these to create yet more variations. You can’t go wrong!

ore and more clothes and accessories in high-street shops are embellished with embroidery or decorative stitch. It adds another dimension to a simple design and can be used to stamp your personality on your clothes or home.

For instance, the humble zigzag stitch can be changed to a pretty satin stitch by reducing the length to just 0.3 or 0.4.

The stitches will be very close together, completely concealing the fabric beneath. Do the same with shell, blanket, flower stitches and more.

All it takes to recreate this look is to play with your sewing machine's stitches! The wonderful thing about modern sewing machines is that they

When working with decorative stitches, reduce the stitch speed to about half the normal – the needle will be going up, down, sideways, back and forth so it helps prevent thread breakage if it is not trying to do so at super speed!

decorative stitches a very dramatic look.

This embroidery thread is finer and perfect for decorative stitching. Machine embroidery thread is also fabulous for decorative stitches. It is usually rayon and has a high sheen so the results are luxurious. It works well with an embroidery machine needle, which again has a larger eye.

Unlike regular stitching, where the top thread should show on the top and the bobbin thread on the reverse, with decorative stitching, the top thread should wrap around to the reverse too. So if it is important that both sides of the work look good, use the same thread in both top and bobbin.

Consider using thicker thread such as crochet cotton or embroidery floss to couch or use for bobbin work. Both provide surface detail and texture to your work. Couching is when you lay the thread on the surface and use a triple zigzag stitch or other decorative stitch to anchor it in place. You can do this with a matching thread colour, contrasting thread or invisible thread.

NEEDLE AND THREAD CHOICE

Bobbin work is when you hand-wind the thread onto the bobbin, keeping an even tension as you wind it on. Pop the bobbin in place but do NOT put the thread through the bobbin tension as it can stop it working properly. Nor should you try and adjust the bobbin tension as it is very difficult to reset.

You can play around with different thread as well as stitches. Try topstitch thread that is slightly thicker and thus will be more prominent on the surface of the fabric. Use a topstitch needle, which has a larger eye to cope with the thicker thread.

Embellish the yoke of a simple smock top with rows of bold stitching (McCall's 7544)

Modern machines have a range of lovely stitches

Variegated thread changes colour – giving dense

Use regular sewing thread in the top and bring up the bobbin thread as usual.

Then work with the right side of the fabric face down towards the throat plate (so the bobbin thread will be on

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Top tip!

the right side of the fabric).

Choose simple stitches Did you know Bobbinfil is such as straight, zigzag a finer thread designed for or stretch stitch and be dense embroidery stitching? amazed at the results. As It's perfect for heavy you haven’t put the thread in metallic thread work the bobbin through the bobbin tension, you may get skipped stitches. Slow sewing avoids this.

Invisible thread comes in clear or smoke colour and can be used in both bobbin and top. Do not use the auto-thread cutter when using this kind of thread however, as it can get tangled around the blade. If you choose to use it on the top only, you may need to adjust the thread tension to prevent the regular bobbin thread from showing on the surface of the fabric.

If you like the look of smocking try Madeira smocking thread. Sew regular lines of stitching about 1cm apart and then hover a hot steam iron just above the surface – the thread shrinks gathering up the fabric, just like magic!

Metallic thread adds lustre and glamour and can be used with most decorative stitches for stunning results. Use a metallic needle which has a specially coated eye to cope with the metal in the thread and slow the machine as above. You can use bobbinfil – a finer thread designed for dense embroidery stitching – in the bobbin rather than metallic thread if the reverse of the work is going to be hidden.

TWIN NEEDLES Combine a twin needle with decorative stitches and you create yet another new variation. Use a twin needle with 1.6 or 2mm gap. Use two different thread colours in the top – thread them both together through the threading system until the last hook above the needle.

Place one behind the hook and leave the other unhooked which will prevent them tangling at the needles. Thread through the eyes by hand. Double check your needles won't hit the needle plate before you start.

Select your stitch and check the width – reduce to a maximum of 5 if it is wider so that both needles will go through the foot and throat plate. Again, reduce the speed to half maximum.

Have fun with thread and stitches, but beware, it is addictive once you start!

Kwik Sew 4215 has great sleeves you can decorate.

All patterns are available through www.sewdirect.com

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BOOK OF THE MONTH

IN THE GOOD

BOOKS Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books

Print, Pattern, Sew

by Jen Hewett. Photography by Jen Siska £25, Roost Books

Hi Jen, how are you? Tell us, what inspired you to write this book?

In 2015 I challenged myself to handprint yardage and sew a new garment every month. I called that project ‘Print, Pattern, Sew’ and received so many enquiries about my process that I chose to write a book about it.

How did you first discover printing your own fabric and what do you love most about it?

I was working in a corporate job in 2008 when I decided I needed a creative outlet, so I took a screenprinting class and was so hooked that I experimented with other forms of printmaking, including block printing. One of the reasons I fell in love with printmaking is the ability to create fabric that is unique to me.

What’s your favourite project or technique in the book and why?

My favourite project is also one of the simplest: making a scarf. Scarves are a great way to practise different repeat pattern techniques, and if you make a mistake you can just hide it in the folds!

INTO THE BLUE Try your hand at indigo dyeing with step-bystep techniques and 25 fabulous projects in Nicola Gouldsmith’s Shibori. Available for £12.99 from www.makeetc.com

CHILD’S PLAY Practise your patchwork and quilting and sew something special for the little ones in your life with Stacey Day’s Child's Play Quilts.

Pick up yours for £12.99 from www.ctpub.com

Turn to PAGE 82 to make Jen’s shortsleeved dress

Jen

What are your top tips for anyone looking to try printing?

Don’t expect perfection at the outset (or ever, really). Practise, make mistakes and be kind to yourself.

What exciting plans do you have for the next few months?

After I wrap up a small summer book tour in the US, I will be leading an eight-day block-printing retreat in Jaipur, India through Ace Camps Travel Company this autumn. In addition, a couple of projects I’ve worked on over the past year are launching soon, but I can’t share those details just yet!

SEW TINY All you need is a spare hour, a needle, thread and some wool felt to make the 14 quick-make projects inside Kathy Brown’s new book Lunch-Hour Wool Minis. Available for £19.99 from www.shopmartingale.com

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Request your free fabric catalogue today!

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FABRIC PATTERNS HABERDASHERY WORKSHOPS

FABRICATESHOP.CO.UK 1A rOBERTTOWN LANE lIVERSEDGE WF1 LT www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 37

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We love

BAGS MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 85m canvas square • 1m co-ordinating lining • FQ Vlieseline S320 fusible interfacing • 40cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding • FQ Vlieseline Decovil I Light fusible interfacing • 1m Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing • 1m tan leather • 2 18cm black metal zips • 18cm red plastic zip • 2 2.5cm silver D-rings • 2 2.5cm silver rectangle rings • 2.5cm silver bag slider • 2 medium silver Chicago screws • 2m 2.5cm-wide webbing • stamp & Jet Black Ranger Archival Ink (optional) • leather needle • co-ordinating thread • fabric glue • leather hole punch • template downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Arm

CANDY

This leather and canvas bag looks great and would make a cracking gift for Father's Day! Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

CUTTING From the leather, cut • 2 9x2.5cm pieces (side tabs) • 2 2.5x30cm pieces (front closing tabs) • 1 oval label • 1 flap template at smaller lines • 44x13cm piece (base) From the canvas, cut • 1 flap template • 2 44x36cm pieces (front and back) From the lining, cut: • 30x38cm piece (flap lining) • 2 22x40cm (outer zip pockets) • 22x40cm piece (lining zip pocket) • 2 44x36cm pieces From the interfacing, cut: • 30x38cm piece of H630 • 1 flap template from H630 • 44x36cm piece H630 (front & back) • 1 flap template from Decovil • 1 45x37cm piece from Style-Vil

NOTES Seam allowances 0.5cm (1⁄4”) Switch to leather needle when sewing the leather

Shopping list Natural Country House Traveller canvas, £15 per metre and red Bye, Bye Birdy Scribble Grid cotton, £13 per metre from www.frumble.co.uk Vlieseline products are available from www.ladysewandsew.co.uk

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A

B

C

D

E

F

HOW TO MAKE: Top-stitch the edges of the side tabs. Fold in half and enclose a rectangle ring 2cm from the end and make a hole large enough for the Chicago screw through both layers of leather.

Cut a 160cm piece of webbing. Attach one end to the middle bar of the bag slider.

Glue the front closing tab pieces suede sides together.

Top-stitch the edges as you did before to decorate.

For the top closure, cut a 15cm-long piece of webbing and enclose the two D-rings.

Stitch the end closed.

Fuse the co-ordinating piece of H630 to the WS of the flap lining fabric. Then fuse the H630 and Decovil flap pieces to the WS of the canvas flap, wadding first.

Place the leather flap on top of the canvas and line the curves up. Top-stitch the upper edge of the leather.

Place the flap front RST with the untrimmed lining and sew the side and front curve leaving the top open. Trim the lining to suit the flap front, clip the curve and turn RS out.

Top-stitch then baste the open end closed and trim slightly. (See Pic A.) Attach the front closure (webbing with two D-rings) by stitching it 16cm in from the flat edge then place the stamped oval label over it and top-stitch in place. (See Pic B.) Top-stitch the leather to Top-stitch the zipper in the the bottom section of canvas window you’ve made. front. Attach the leather strap Fold the pocket lining up that you made for the front matching the raw edges and closure halfway along the sew the sides and top. upper edge. (See Pic C.) On the front panel draw Lay the completed front a rectangle 1x18cm 5cm onto the slightly larger down from the top, piece of Style-Vil in the centre. and attach with Repeat on the a narrow WS of the seam. Trim zipper pocket the excess lining 3cm foam.

There are great faux Repeat down from leather options available the process the top centre. but this is a brilliant way for the back Align RST, to recycle an old as per the matching the leather jacket front. rectangles. Draw a Make a lining horizontal line down zipper pocket 6cm down the centre, angled at each from the top of the bag lining end. (See Pic D.) Sew around the outer line and 4cm down from the top and cut along the inner line, of the pocket bag piece.

With RST, sew the lining clipping into the corners and front and back, leaving a gap in ‘post’ the lining through the the base. Cut a 4.5cm square hole. Smooth out and press.

Top tip!

from each bottom corner. (See Pic E.) Box the bottom.

Place the front and the back of the bag RST and sew all around the sides and base, leaving no gaps. Box the base as you did for the lining.

Attach the flap to the back panel of the outer bag RST. With the bag outer RS out, arrange RST with the lining, matching seams. Sew around the top edge. Turn out through the gap in the lining and hand-sew the gap closed.

Push the lining into the bag and top-stitch the edge.

Attach a tab to each end 10cm down from the top, using the Chicago screw to keep it in place. (See Pic F.) Thread the free strap end through one of the rectangle rings, back through the bag slider and secure at the other rectangle ring.

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We love

STYLE

FLOWER power How adorable is this dress with attached bag?

We love the pops of bold Liberty print and this is a great way to use up spare buttons leftover from other projects!

Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

Shopping list Red stretch cotton denim, ÂŁ11 per metre www.moresewing.co.uk Red Liberty Betsy Tana lawn, ÂŁ5.65 per FQ www.sewbox.co.uk

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A

B

C

D

E

F

HOW TO MAKE:

Top tip!

LAYPLAN:

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

140cm-wide fabric

• • • • • • • •

8b

8a

6 3

4

3

1

2 9

Sew lower pocket lining to the corners of the seam upper pocket lining at straight allowance. Turn inside out, edge RST, leaving a turning push out the corners and gap in the centre of the seam. finish the raw edge.

Make three buttonholes Press seam open. as shown on template. Pin Fuse interfacing to WS of to open back neck seam pocket front. allowance on the left side, Sew pocket front to RST 1cm from top. Sew tab to assembled lining piece RST. seam. Press away from dress.

Press. Trim corners and notch Top-stitch on RS. (See Pic C.) the curved seam allowance.

Sew one main fabric collar Turn out through the opening piece) to one Liberty collar and press flat. Stitch up the piece RST at outer curved opening by hand. edge only.

With one flap piece Clip and notch the curved interfaced, sew flap pieces seam allowance. (See Pic D.) RST, leaving a turning gap at Turn RS out. Push out edges top straight edge. Notch seam and press flat. Repeat for allowance and turn RS remaining two other out. Press flat then pieces. Place a make a small pin at CF of buttonhole on neck edge. the flap.

Starting from Mark out this point, the strap When attaching the bias pin collar positions on facing to the neckline, ease pieces RS the dress the binding into a curve facing up to front in chalk before stitching for a neck raw edge with a ruler. stress-free finish RS. Tack-stitch Outline one all around. short and one long Pin the bias binding strap piece on bonding with the untrimmed edge web. Fuse to the WS of the all around neck RST on top Liberty. Trim around then peel of the collar, with a small off the backing paper. Place overhang at each far end. onto the dress front and iron Tuck under the ends to to fix. Top-stitch each side of match the edges and sew all straps to secure. around. (See Pic E.) Pin pocket purse onto the Press tape to WS, encasing dress front, place flap above raw neck edges and tack in curved edge facing up and place. Hand-stitch binding in overlapping straps a little. (See position on the WS. Pic A.) Stitch around lower Finish raw side seams of pocket and across the straight the dress. Sew front to back edge of the flap. Fold flap with RST. Press seam open. downwards, press, pin and Finish armholes with sew across the straight edge seam binding, aligning the again to secure. untrimmed edge with the Sew the back pieces dress RST. Sew then press the RST below the marker. Press binding over to WS. Handseam open. stitch binding all around.

Sew front to back at the Sew a single folded hem at shoulders RST. Finish the the lower edge of the dress. raw edges. Press seam Finish off the purse pocket allowance towards back with a pretty button. Sew bodice. Top-stitch on RS a few buttons to the straps to secure. (See Pic B.) To make the back neck tab, every 3-4cm in matching fold piece in half lengthways colours. (See Pic F.) Sew three buttons at the with RST. Press. Sew down back neck placket to finish. two short sides only. Clip

1m medium-weight woven fabric 30x132cm Liberty lawn 15cm square purse lining fabric 10x50cm bonding web 3 10mm buttons (back neck) 2cm button (purse pocket) 10 10mm buttons for strap 1m 25mm-wide bias seam binding (trim 5mm from one unfolded edge) • 30cm square fusible interfacing • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Finish the raw edges with a machine zigzag stitch or overlocker Seam allowance of 1cm is included except where indicated

SIZE CHART: 3-4 years

5-6 years

7-8 years

HEIGHT

98-104cm

110-116cm

122-128cm

CHEST

52-55cm

58-61cm

63-66cm

WAIST

51-53cm

55-56cm

57-59cm

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DRESSMAKING FABRICS | PATTERNS | SEWING & CRAFT CLASSES www.sewisfaction.co.uk | Wokingham, Berkshire

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We love

STYLE

Precious PETALS Create a classic top featuring surprise sleeve detail with this charming tutorial Project CLAIRE GARSIDE Simple Sew

Shopping list Scarlet Elderflower Breeze viscose, £14.90 per metre www.sewisfaction.co.uk

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Get the

LOOK Petal sleeves are a great way to dress up a simple top.

To add this feature to your favourite top, draw the centre line down the sleeve pattern piece.

Draw a curved diagonal line starting 1 or 2" from the side seam, curving up to the upper part of the sleeve head.

Repeat for the other direction, ensuring your line crosses at the centre line in the same place.

Add a narrow seam allowance below each line.

Now trace a copy of each half and cut out!

HOW TO MAKE:

LAYPLAN FOLD

45" LAYPLAN

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

SIZING: 8

10

12

14

16

18

20

BUST

33�

35�

37�

39�

41�

43�

45�

WAIST

26�

28�

30�

32�

34�

36�

38�

HIPS

36�

38�

40�

42’

44�

46�

48�

• 1.7m 45�-wide or 1.2m 60�-wide fabric such as crepe, viscose or cotton lawn • 50cm medium-weight fusible interfacing • co-ordinating thread • 16� concealed zipper • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Seam allowance of 1.5cm is included unless otherwise stated

Fuse interfacing onto the WS of facing pieces. With RST join the front and back neck facings at the shoulder seams. Press seams open and zigzag-stitch or overlock the lower edge of the assembled facing.

Sew darts in on the WS of the bodice front and press downwards.

With RST join front and back bodices together at the shoulder seams. Press seams open.

Hem each lower edge of your front and back sleeves with a 1cm hem.

Align one front and one back sleeve pair (front sleeve on top), matching the notches on the sleeve head and baste together.

(See Pic A.) Sew a line of gathering stitches along the full sleeve head curve and pull threads to gather sleeve slightly until it will fit the armhole.

Install the sleeve into the open armhole and sew in place with a 1cm seam. Neaten the raw seam allowance.

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Top tip!

A

Try wash-out starch spray to get greater control of your fabric during construction.

Simply spray well and allow to dry before cutting out your pieces

B

C Arrange the top RST and pin together at the underarm point first, then down the rest of the side seams. Sew from the sleeve hem to the top hem in one continuous motion, pivoting at the underarm point.

Pin neck facing in place RST with the top. Stitch slowly using a 1cm seam allowance, taking the pins out as you sew.

Turn facing through to the inside of the top and press flat.

Flip facing up and on the RS of the bodice, pin the zip in place RST. Using the zipper foot on your machine, sew a line of basting stitches along the zip tape, removing pins as you sew. Sew a line of stitches as close to the zip teeth as you

can, as far down as your foot allows. Repeat other side. (See Pic B.) Fold the facing over the top of the zip so that the facing is RST with the back bodice.

You can keep your zipper footer on and stitch along the side of the zip tape through the facing and the bodice. Clip the top corners. (See Pic C.) Turn facing through back to the inside of the dress and press flat.

Arrange the top RST and, from the last stitch you made on the zip, sew to the hem.

Open out the CB seam and press.

Turn up a narrow hem, press and stitch in place to finish your top.

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s rn e tt rth Pa wo

Sew ahead for summer!

8 2

£

Issue 21 on sale 24th May

FREE 3-IN-1 pyjama pattern

Colour Block Tunic In sizes 8-20 Upcycled tapestry cushion

In sizes 6-22

Reversible slouch bag

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/sn21

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STITCHING SCENE

Northern IRELAND We asked former Sewing Bee contestant and custom dressmaker Angeline Murphy to show us the sewing sights of Northern Ireland

Angeline

Here’s a quick guide to getting the best out of sewing in Northern Ireland.

SHOPS TO VISIT

I wanted to share my two favourite fabric shops in Northern Ireland: Craftswoman, Carrickferrgus is undoubtedly the largest fabric store in Northern Ireland.

Its wide range of fabric means you will never leave empty handed. There is beautiful occasion fabric as well as great basics and bargains to be had.

O

ur sewing scene in Northern Ireland needs some TLC but, like all sewists, we make the most of what we have on our doorstep. When I first discovered sewing back in 2012 I joined an evening sewing class in Belfast Metropolitan College to pick up the essential skills needed such as threading a sewing machine and stitching a straight line.

Myself and eight other sewing enthusiasts were introduced to just two fabric stores in Belfast City – The Spinning Wheel and Paragon Fabrics. Thankfully, as my sewing adventure has grown I have discovered many more quaint fabric stores, sewing bloggers, fashion designers and haberdasheries that inspire me to love my hobby even more.

Mad About Fabrics, Duncrue Industrial Estate, Belfast is a little gem and hosts lots of cotton and a selection of dressmaking fabric to feast your eyes upon. It is quite small but perfect for a newbie sewist who doesn’t want to be overwhelmed by too much fabric choice.

There’s plenty of home furnishing fabric too if you’re looking to spruce up your home décor.

Other fabric shops in Northern Ireland to check out: Of course there are plenty of other options for shopping out there so let’s round up more places you may want to stop by: The Spinning Wheel, Belfast Paragon Fabrics, Belfast Elizabeth Rose NI, County Armagh Mrs Sew n Sew, Portadown, County Armagh • Shipquay Fabrics, County Derry • • • •

Craftswoman Fabrics is one of plenty of options for fabric shopping

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Image by www.katmervynphotography.com

WAYS TO MEET OTHER SEWISTS

Colour and Cloth offer wonderful courses

Lynne creates vintage fashion with a modern twist

When I was growing up none of my friends sewed so it was important for me to meet a new bunch of girls that enjoyed the same hobbies I do.

The best way to find like-minded people is to join a class in your local area. Contact your local teaching college for goodvalue sewing classes, or if you fancy something a little more challenging check out the historic dressmaking courses from Colour and Cloth in Ulster (www.colourandcloth. com) or School of Dressmaking by bridal expert Lizzie Agnew in Belfast (www.lizzieagnew.co.uk/ schoolofdressmaking).

I also offer a range of sewing classes and host crafty hen parties where ladies make unique memory patches that we turn into a patchwork quilt for the bride to be to treasure. Visit www.angelinemurphy.com to find out more. If you are new to sewing and fancy picking up a few skills I recommend evening classes at your local college or a sewing group in your area. Belfast Stitch and Bitch is a well-established group well worth taking a look at www.instagram. com/Belfastsnb

Suzanna of www. threadquarters. co.uk (formerly Seasaltstitches) will wow you with her fresh fun makes and pattern hacks.

The best way to find like-minded people is to join a class

Follow Rebekah’s sewing adventures at www.instagram. com/sewno65 and see her getting to grips with her beautiful vintage Singer sewing machine.

Suzanna's vlog is full of inspiration

BLOGGERS AND VLOGGERS

The internet is a valuable source of inspiration, support and information.

I’ve listed some fabulous ladies that I think you’re going to enjoy following who run blogs, vlogs or online shops representing all that’s inspiring about the NI sewing scene: Step into Susanne’s world with her lovely vlog and see all the gorgeous garments at www.instagram.com/sewcustom_ If you enjoy vintage-style fashion with a modern twist, I recommend Lynne of www.ozzyblackbeard.blogspot.co.uk My crafting parties are great fun!

For a big dose of colour, cheeky humour and adorable clothes for kids, check out www.instagram.com/sew_ over_the_rainbow

ABOUT

Angeline Murphy

Angeline is an Irish sewing fashion designer, tutor and blogger who has been designing and sewing in her spare time for over 10 years. In 2016 Angeline was a contestant on The Great British Sewing Bee and wowed the judges with her occasion wear. Angeline now creates and designs bespoke garments for her clients and shares her love of sewing with crafty classes and hen parties. Visit www. angelinemurphy.com to find out more.

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̸reland ’s No. 1 Fabric Store...

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INNOVATION IS OUR PASSION. We love to inspire you with our excellent ergonomic sewing tools.

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workshops COTTON REEL STUDIO Stockton-on-Tees

Cotton Reel Studio holds easily accessible one-to-one workshops that are perfect for beginners. It has brand-new Janome machines to work on, on dates scheduled to suit you. It also offers a wide selection of fabric and notions to choose from to complete your project. www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk info@cottonreelstudio.co.uk

VARIOUS DATES MAY/JUNE/JULY Absolute beginners This workshop is suitable for someone who has never used a sewing machine before. You will learn how to set up and use a machine and will make at least one project to take home with you. All tools and materials are provided.

Cost: £49

IT’S SEW SIMPLE

North Finchley, London It's Sew Simple’s managing director Jenni McGill creates a friendly, calm environment in which she teaches beginner, intermediate and advanced

Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

VARIOUS DATES MAY/JUNE/JULY Beginner dressmaking – Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dungaree dress This workshop is suitable for someone who has previous experience of setting up a sewing machine and making some simple projects (eg cushions and tote bags).

You will learn how to read a pattern, cut and stabilise fabric and sew buttonholes.

You will need to bring fabric and notions, only the pattern and use of tools and equipment is included in the price.

Cost: £79

VARIOUS DATES MAY/JUNE/JULY Introduction to jersey fabric – Tilly and the Buttons Coco dress or top Sewing with jersey fabric can be a little daunting if you haven’t done it before.

This workshop will explain the different types of jersey and how to work with them without the need for equipment like an overlocker. This workshop is suitable for

sewing workshops. She offers a range of sewing and textile workshops, all thoroughly designed and taught with detailed help sheets, paper patterns, quality tools and materials. Workshops are small and intimate with just 10 places in each. Jenni is a qualified teacher with 10 years of experience designing and making in the bridal industry and 16 years teaching design and textiles in secondary and primary schools. www.itssewsimple.co.uk

someone who has some previous experience of setting up a sewing machine and making simple projects.

You will learn how to read a pattern, cut and work with jersey fabric. You will need to bring fabric and notions, only the pattern and use of tools and equipment is included in the price.

Cost: £79

9TH, 23RD & 30TH JUNE Introduction to sewing This course uses the Simple Sew Lottie blouse and skirt paper pattern. This beautiful beginner-level pussy-bow blouse and close-fitted pencil skirt make a versatile combo that works just as well for a chic casual look, as it does dressed for the town! Simple Sew patterns are designed in the UK to UK dress sizes.

Cost: £170

12TH & 19TH MAY Beginner's sewing workshop Snuggle up in the comfiest pair of pyjamas you’ll ever sew! Perfect for a day on the sofa or a snuggly night in, these pyjamas are sure to keep you looking chic and feeling cosy.

Cost: £95

7TH & 21ST JULY Orla Kiely bag-making workshop Come along to this fantastic two-week sewing course and learn all about bag construction. Use professional bag components and Orla Kiely fabric.

Cost: £120

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JANOME

Stockport, Cheshire Janome has a fantastic range of classes that will enable you to broaden your skills and meet like-minded sewists in a friendly environment. All classes are £70 per day, please book direct with tutor unless otherwise stated. www.janome.co.uk

21ST MAY Overlocker This workshop is designed to give you confidence to operate an overlocker to its full potential. Learn to thread the overlocker and adjust the cutting width, length and differential feed settings to perform various techniques using a variety of fabric.

Contact Gill: training@gillarnold. co.uk or call 0121 608 1414

5TH JUNE Feet & accessories Spend an exciting day unravelling the mysteries of how to use an array of interesting feet and accessories. During the day a sample piece will be created using several different feet and accessories. This piece can then be made up later into a project of your choice. Contact: training@ janome.co.uk or call 0161 666 6006

12TH JUNE Using decorative machine stitches for fabric design In this masterclass Jayne will bring along her archive of swatches for inspiration and discussion. She will guide you through her techniques and ‘fabric recipes’ to make unique linear, chequered and repeat designs. By the end of the day you will have amassed a stack of samples and see all the stitches on your sewing machine in a totally new light! Contact Jayne: hello@ jayneemerson.co.uk or call 07809 142088

19TH MAY

MINISTRY OF CRAFT Manchester

With locations in crafter’s paradise Fred Aldous in Manchester’s Northern Quarter, The Edge in Chorlton and Crafts and Makes in Didsbury, the Ministry tutors teach a huge variety of fun, friendly and sociable workshops for all tastes and abilities.

07740 860390 info@ministryofcraft.co.uk www.ministryofcraft.co.uk

9TH JUNE

Sew your own tunic dress or top (Fred Aldous)

Develop your sewing skills in a day (Fred Aldous)

This fashion-focused tunic dress with a flattering boat neck is the perfect everyday wear. Sew it in bold and bright or pretty and floral, the choice is yours, and what’s more it will be sewn in a day. It’s the perfect project for picking up dressmaking techniques as you’ll learn how to use a pattern block and cut fabric correctly.

Cost: £69

A full day of sewing designed to build your portfolio of sewing skills and give you the confidence to tackle any project. Start the day by taking the challenge out of sewing zips. Next, learn how to cut and join bias strips to make piping (fabric-covered cord) and bias binding. Finally, learn a mix of practical and creative skills whilst using clever sewing accessories including a twin needle, buttonhole foot and walking foot.

Cost: £80

19TH MAY Sew your own Capri trousers (Fred Aldous) Look every inch the cool cat in your own pair of handmade, perfectly fitted Capri pants. You’re already no stranger to a sewing machine but by the end of this course you’ll be able to sew waist darts, put in a waist facing, sew in a clever invisible side zip, and conjure a lovely fitted, tapered leg.

Cost: £69

14TH JULY Overlocking for beginners (Fred Aldous) If you are already friendly with your sewing machine and looking for a new technical challenge, don’t limit your sewing skills! Take things one step further and surprise yourself by unravelling the secrets behind sewing with an overlocker!

Cost: £37.50

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The world’s most innovative fabrics

Linton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the world’s most exclusive fashion houses See our website for the Linton Direct collection Use discount code

lovesewing10

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EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER!

SAVE

20% on patterns from

Boasting modern designs with gorgeous packaging, Simple Sew is Britain's brightest independent pattern company.

This month the lovely team is spoiling you by offering Love Sewing readers an exclusive 20% discount on all dressmaking and bag patterns, plus a range of sewing magazines. Create a versatile pair of Palazzo Trousers or an Amelia Tea Dress (right) – whatever your abilities there are patterns to suit every skill level. To take advantage of this fantastic offer, visit www.simplesewpatterns.com and enter the code LOVESEWING20.

*This offer will run until 30th July 2018.

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Shows you how to...

Claire-Louise Hardie

READ A PATTERN CIRCLE DOTS

These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the endof-stitching line, as set out in the instructions.

Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.

PATTERN CUTTING LINE

Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.

GRAINLINE

The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly.

The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.

BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT

The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line.

TUCKS/PLEATS

Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern PLACE ON FOLD LINE

This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time. pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment.

Follow directional arrows where given.

ABBREVIATIONS DARTS

SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)

Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

Every project you sew has a set seam allowance.

This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly.

Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.

NOTCHES

Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.

RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS

These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral print top with all the flowers upside down.

LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 68

Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST. LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE

This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.

WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)

Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

30/05/2017 15:01

ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.

BUST ADJUSTMENTS

First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what you’d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example

Full bust example

Full bust measurement

33�

38�

High bust measurement

32�

35�

Difference

1�

3�

Adjustment

1/2� SBA = half the difference

11/2� FBA = half the difference

Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position.

Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.

The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level.

Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.

Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.

SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment.

This is essentially the same process in reverse.

From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.

Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount.

The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.

Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.

1/3

1

B

2

apex

1

C

2

D

E

1

2 lap

3

3

Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesn’t, you can easily do this yourself.

NARROW BACK (FIGS A – C) B

A

C

Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so they’ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. You’ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D) Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.

A

BACK ADJUSTMENTS

3

Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point.

Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small Ÿ� adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills.

Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) You’ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Don’t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder.

BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E) D

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT

E

A

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve.

LENTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper.

A

BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line.

To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.

LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 69

Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.

B

Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a Ÿ-½� adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together.

Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) This time you’ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned.

Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole.

Check that you’ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.

30/05/2017 15:01

SAVE 20%

& FREE P&P OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER - ON ALL FABRICS WITH CODE: LS53 In order to take advantage of this exclusive o�er just go to www.fabricsforsale.co.uk to see beautiful premium and designer fabrics for clothing, upholstery and craft projects and use the exclusive code to save now. Be quick this o�er expires 31st May 2018.

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SWATCH SELECTOR

Tutti frutti

Brighten up your next sewing project with our pick of deliciously fruity fabric

ABOUT

Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerry’s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk

F

ruit-themed fabric is my favourite, and its enduring popularity with sewists means there’s never a shortage of options! The Strawberry Tea collection by French designer Axelle Valentin is a glorious mix of fruit and florals, inspired by childhood memories of fruit picking on hot sunny days with strawberries, cherries and more. Fruity Friends from Makower UK features fruity characters alongside florals, flamingos and cacti – I couldn’t resist the cute apple print! To add to the picnic/tea party vibe, I’ve added a couple of solid and blender fabrics inspired by alfresco eating and tablecloths on the grass. Robert Kaufman’s hot pink gingham seersucker has a puckered texture that adds dimension to garments or smaller projects. The green peppered cotton is yarn dyed and the different colour warp and weft threads create extra vibrancy.

A simple apple shape is an easy quilt block to sew and if you fancy making a quick project, Shayla Wolf has designed a fun apple-themed mini quilt using scrappy squares. www.sassafras-lane.com/blogs/news/free-patchwork-apple-mini-quilt-pattern

1

2

Shopping list

3

4

8

7

6

5

Strawberry Tea, Fraises in Robin Egg, Axelle Designs for Michael Miller, ÂŁ3.60 per FQ, www.eclecticmaker.co.uk Seersucker Gingham in Hot Pink, 55% combed cotton/ 45% polyester, by Robert Kaufman ÂŁ14 per metre, www.eternalmaker.com Lagoon, Nanners in Yellow, cotton lawn, by Rashida Coleman-Hale for Cotton + Steel ÂŁ4.75 per FQ, www. oliveandflohandcraft.co.uk Cuban Beat, Party Like a Pineapple in Isle, ÂŁ4.25 per FQ, www.thevillage haberdashery.co.uk Fruity Friends, Apples in Red, by Henley Design Studio for Makower UK, ÂŁ3 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk Peppered Cotton in Green Tea, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ, www.backstitch.co.uk Fruity Friends, Cherries in White, by Henley Design Studio for Makower UK, ÂŁ3.30 per FQ, www.oliveandflo handcraft.co.uk Sun Print, Grove in Strawberry,

by Alison Glass for Andover, ÂŁ3 per FQ, www.backstitch.co.uk

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ASK THE EXPERTS

TAKING measurements Alison Smith MBE

A well-fitting garment starts with accurate measurements! Don’t worry over the numbers, the finished garment is guaranteed to make you feel 10/10

O

ne thing I am constantly asked by students is to take their body measurements. Measuring yourself is not as easy as it may seem, and so often you require more than bust, waist and hips.

The first thing you need is good-fitting underwear! Your bra is all-important – it must fit properly, as this will be the foundation for your garments. If necessary, get remeasured and treat yourself to something new. The same applies to pants – don’t measure wearing pants that hold everything in, if you're not going to wear these all the time.

You will need a friend to help now.

Top tip!

Well-fitting underwear is extremely important when taking your measurements

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The next stage is to stand in front of a full-length mirror in your underwear – scary!

Analyse your figure, are your hips wider than your shoulders? Turn sideways and check your posture, do you have a sway back, round shoulders, a tummy? Honesty really is the best policy.

Now it’s time to measure. Place a simple chain necklace around your neck and then take some elastic and tie it around your waist, it must be snug and the elastic will find your narrowest point. Also tie some elastic around your hips, the widest part, and another piece under your arms and over the top of your bust. With the help of a friend, measure around the elastic at the waist, hip and over bust. Use centimetres, they are more accurate, the tape measure needs to be snug but not tight. You also need the full bust measurement over the fullest part of your bust. While the elastic is still in place, measure the distance from your waist to hip, where the side seam would fall, and then measure from the waist to where your finished skirt length would fall. Measure also the back waist, from the chain around your neck, down your spine to the waist elastic. We are not finished yet!

A neck measurement is useful – using the line of the necklace to help, measure around the neck, so the tape measure meets at the CF where those two little bones are.

Measure your waist at its narrowest point

A shoulder measurement is also required and this can be done by measuring from the necklace to the dimple at the shoulder/ arm joint (this can be difficult to find). An easier way is to put on a tight-fitting T shirt with a set-in sleeve and making sure the armhole seam is sitting where the end of the shoulder is. The seam should be vertical, not sloping down the arm or pulling in toward the neck. Once you are happy with the armhole seam you can measure the shoulder. Whilst the tight T-shirt is in place, measure also across the chest and above the bust from armhole seam to armhole seam – this is the chest measurement. Take the same measurement across the back from armhole to armhole – this is the back width.

You now have a great set of body measurements to help you choose your pattern size and make any pattern adjustments necessary. Just remember that 5cm of ease over your body measurements is the best, especially at the bust and hip, and 2.5cm is best at the waist.

Good luck!

ABOUT ALISON SMITH

Measure your straight and bent arm and consider range of movement

Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with Alison at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

Find the dimple at your shoulder point for an accurate measurement

Measuring yourself is not as easy as it may seem, and so often you require more than bust, waist and hips

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We love

STYLE

BLOOMING

lovely

Breathe a dash of floral freshness into any garment with this modern embroidery tutorial Project CRISTIN MORGAN

MATERIALS & TOOLS: transfer & marking tools jacket or other garment embroidery stabiliser (optional) embroidery hoop (optional, as not necessary for heavyweight materials such as canvas or denim) • apricot, blue-green, bright red, coral, golden olive, mauve, olive green, plum, shell pink & straw cotton embroidery floss • embroidery needle • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk • • • •

NOTES: We used all six strands on this project for a rich colour and raised texture

Top tip

Be sure your garment is clean and dry before you begin stitching, and press if necessary

HOW TO MAKE:

Shopping list Find a gorgeous selection of over 500 colours of embroidery floss at www.dmc.com

Transfer your choice of flower and foliage motifs to your garment using an airerasable marker.

This motif works well as a stencil, as it lets you place the flowers and leaves wherever they work best on your specific garment. I’ve grouped the designs onto the shoulders.

Stabilise your garment if necessary. My jacket is medium weight with a bit of stretch, so I used a mediumheavy weight cut-away stabiliser. Cut the stabiliser to the approximate size of the area you’ll be stitching.

Attach the stabiliser to the WS of the fabric, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

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MASTERCLASS

STITCH GALLERY SPLIT STITCH

A

Alternatively use satin stitch for a smoother option for the centre of the flowers.

To stitch the leaves, outline each leaf with a line of split stitch. Add a row of long and short stitches, using the split-stitch outline as a starting point. As you reach the base of the leaf, angle the stitches towards the middle, as shown, so that the stitches on each side of the leaf base meet at the centre. Switch the

thread colour as you move towards the centre, if you wish, and continue filling as you did previously.

Remove the excess stabiliser as explained in the manufacturer's instructions.

(To remove my cutaway stabiliser, I carefully trimmed around the edge of the motif with a small pair of scissors, making sure not to snip into any of my stitches.)

B 1 2

3 D

C

FRENCH KNOTS

LONG SHORT STITCH

SATIN STITCH

ABOUT THE BOOK

Hoop art : 20 stylish projects for the modern embroiderer,

by Cristin Morgan available now, ÂŁ12.99 (Search Press)

To stitch the flowers, begin by outlining the upper portion of each petal with split stitch.

Using the line of split stitch as your starting point, add a row of long and short stitches around each petal. Angle your stitches slightly towards the base of the petal as you work your way around.

If you wish, switch the thread colour as you move towards the centre and continue filling each petal with long and short stitches, keeping the stitches approximately the same length as the long stitches from the first row.

To stitch the centre of the flowers, fill the centre of each with tightly spaced French knots. Begin in the centre and work your way out and around.

Bethany says...

The flowers and leaves can be arranged to fit together depending on the space you have to work with!

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To celebrate the latest new pattern release enjoy

15% off

patterns with code lovepatterns15

Online quality fabrics for dressmaking and crafting.

Dressmaking and sewing workshops in Leicester.

Bobbins and Buttons dressmaking pattern range.

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clothbound makers of exquisite pressing tools

CHOOSE FROM A WIDE SELECTION OF HAMS TO SUIT YOUR SEWING NEEDS CUSTOMERS ORDERS ALSO UNDERTAKEN

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27/10/2017 24/04/2018 12:06 13:03

Pretty sewing goodies, patterns, tools and the chance to win some gorgeous fabric from your favourite suppliers

Worth over £600!

WIN A JANOME SEWING MACHINE We have an incredible Janome DKS100 Special Edition sewing machine to give away to one lucky reader this month.

Nominated for Product of the Year 2018, the DKS100SE offers sewists an impressive range of features while remaining accessible and easy to use. The machine is fully computerised and boasts 100 built-in stitches, with 10 of the most popular stitches visible on large buttons on the keypad. Sewists will appreciate the handy one-step buttonhole system and the option to elongate stitches up to five times without losing density. And to top it off, the team is also throwing in a fabulous quilting kit worth £129! This nifty kit includes a large extension table, ¼” seam foot, appliqué foot and ditch quilting foot. Janome has remained a market-leading provider of top-quality sewing machines for almost a century.

Sewists can browse Janome's extensive range of machines to suit all skills levels and tasks by visiting www.janome.co.uk.

To enter the competition, go to www.ppjump.com/ lovesewing53 and add your details before 7th June, 2018.

Winner will be notified by email. Competition only open to UK residents

Turn over for many more discounts & pri zes www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 63

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5 to win

WIN TAILOR’S CHALK AND PENCILS FROM HEMLINE

Marking tools are essential components for your sewing kit. This month, we have five bundles of the new tailor’s chalk and pencils from Hemline. The chalk preserves clear markings on your fabric for 72 hours before disappearing and it comes in a handy storage box to prevent the chalk from breaking. The water-soluble pencil allows you to make precise markings on a variety of projects which can then be easily removed with a damp cloth or through washing. Hemline products are available nationwide from haberdashery, knitting and craft stockists.

For stockist information, email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

WIN A BUNDLE

OF RIBBON FROM BERISFORDS Embellish your projects with these lovely farmyard-themed ribbons from Berisfords. Two readers will win a bundle of ribbon from the new collection which includes six vibrant animal designs featuring wording to reflect the sound they make. These are perfect for sewing and craft projects as well as wrapping gifts and making cards. For stockist information, email berisfords@ stockistenquiries.co.uk or telephone: 01453 883581. Or visit www.berisfords-ribbons.co.uk

Exclusive discounts SAVE 20% on Simple Sew patterns with the code LOVESEWING20.

LOVESEWING20 Offer valid until 31st July 2018. www.simplesewpatterns.com

5 to win WIN PADDED HANGERS FROM TRIMITS Show off your home-sewn garments by displaying them on one of these lovely padded hangers from Trimits. As well as looking really pretty, these hangers are ideal for storing delicate garments such as bridal wear, christening gowns, fine knitwear and other special items.

We have five bundles to give away! Trimits products are available nationwide from sewing and craft shops. For stockist information, email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

SAVE 20% on denim and chambray at Minerva Crafts using the code LOVESEWING53. Offer valid until 7th June 2018. www.minervacrafts.com Check out the new Adam Ross website and SAVE 15% at checkout with the code LOVESEW53.

The new website has a fantastic array of features as well as lovely new fabric ranges, patterns and haberdashery. Head to www.adamrossfabrics.co.uk to find out more! Offer valid until 7th June 2018.

SAVE 25% at Ralph Pink with the code LOVEMAG25. Offer valid until 10th July 2018. Visit www.ralphpink-patterns.com to find out more.

SAVE £2.50 with code LS18 on standard advance adult tickets and £1 on concession tickets to The Festival of Quilts. There is a fulfilment fee of £1.95 per booking. Offer valid until 7th June 2018. www.thefestivalofquilts.co.uk

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6 to win WIN A BUNDLE OF PRECISION TOOLS FROM CLOVER

Achieve professional results with the help of these new tools from Clover. These ergonomically designed tools will allow you to easily manipulate your projects and precisely feed fabric through your machine. Fold, turn and hold curves, hems, seams and corners whilst pressing in place or machine sewing. Six lucky readers will win a Roll and Press, Hold it Precision Stiletto and a Point 2 Point Turner. To find out more about Clover products and projects, go to clover-mfg.com Clover products are available nationwide from all good craft, sewing and hobby shops. For stockist information, contact clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk

WIN A FAT QUARTER

BUNDLE FROM MONALUNA

To celebrate the release of the new Journey collection, the team at Monaluna is offering one lucky reader the chance to win a bundle of fat quarters from the collection! Composed of 100% organic cotton, the Journey collection features an array of moody prints against a backdrop of subtly sophisticated blues, pinks and corals. To find out more about the fabric collections stocked by Monaluna, visit www.monaluna.com

Worth £21 WIN a bundle of project pouches

WIN A MARY PATTERN FROM BOBBINS AND BUTTONS To celebrate the launch of the new Mary pattern, the team at Bobbins & Buttons is offering three readers the chance to win a copy of this pattern. The Mary pattern is a versatile A-line dungaree dress for girls aged 1-12 and features different pocket options, including an upper front pocket and curved patch pockets. The paper pattern is priced at £14, includes easy-to-follow instructions and is perfect for beginner sewists looking to develop their skills. To see more of the lovely patterns stocked by Bobbins & Buttons, visit www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

One lucky reader will receive three project pouches from Sarah Ashford Studio. Measuring 34x24cm and composed of semi-translucent material, these pouches are perfect for storing all your precious sewing tools and feature a stylish black zipper to keep items secure. To see more of Sarah’s products, visit her Etsy shop at www.etsy.com/shop/sarahashfordstudio

HOW TO ENTER

For a chance to win any of this issue’s giveaways, enter your details along with the names of the products you would like to win at www.ppjump.com/lovesewing53 By entering these competitions, you accept that your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities.

Closing date 7th June 2018 unless otherwise stated

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Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines

New fabrics added every week

sewoverit.co.uk/shop ÂŁ2.50 UK P&P 0207 326 0376 FREE for orders ÂŁ75+

Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website

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MACHINE

REVIEW

This month we’re taking a look at the stunning selection of Toyota machines on offer at www. highlinesewing.co.uk

BEST FOR ECO-FRIENDLY BEGINNERS

TOYOTA ECO 15CB This lightweight model is part of Toyota’s environmentally friendly range of machines and is great for beginners. It features an easy upper thread set up, large simple-to-use dials, levers and a wide sewing area. The built-in quick advisor offers advice on common troubleshooting queries such as thread tension and set up and there are 15 different stitches included. Every function is simple and accessible, with colour coding and clear stepby-step threading instructions provided in a handy flip open panel.

This is a great sewing machine for smaller day-to-day projects and basic dressmaking items. You can feel extra good about the fact that the ECO range produces reduced CO2 emissions when in use!

Lorna

R UNDE

£160

BEST FOR HEAVY-DUTY FABRIC

UNDER

£300

Bethany

TOYOTA SUPER JEANS 34 The Toyota Super Jeans 34 is a high-spec model with some pretty impressive capabilities! Designed for heavy-duty fabric such as denim, it boasts the ability to sew over 12 layers of jeans fabric without fuss. It has 34 stitches included, as well as a wide sewing area and easy-to-use needle drop point, making large projects a breeze. The specialist gliding foot is great for sewing through thick hems and you can use the adjustable presser foot pressure to help you move between thin and thick fabric without disruption. As well as sewing denim, this model is ideal for curtains and other home décor items. Why not try on your dungaree and jeans pattern gift this month?

BEST FOR EMBELLISHMENT

TOYOTA OEKAKI RENAISSANCE RED Dedicated to free-motion embroidery, Toyota’s Oekaki range gives home sewists the ability to draw ideas directly onto fabric, with variable width control for more accurate drawing. Lightly stepping on the foot controller selects a narrow stitch width, stepping further selects wider width. Slightly releasing the foot controller selects a narrow stitch width. Don’t worry about using the machine for regular makes as well; there are 50 stitches to choose from, it can handle thick fabric as well as many layers of material and includes a range of presser feet to help with your dressmaking and quilting projects.

Amy

R

UNDE

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We love

STYLE

STRAP yourself in

Turn your free McCall’s pattern gift into an on-trend dungaree dress! Let us show you how Pattern hack AMY THOMAS

line to the right of the centre give you more ease for front to the same length. the skirt than you'd need for 22� will create a below-the- the trousers. knee length skirt. If you wish Continue the line down to to create a different length, the hem point in this larger measure from your waist to size for your new side seam. the desired length, then add You may find it helpful to 3cm (hem allowance use a highlighter to and waist seam remember which allowance) and line you're draw the following! line to this Cut out all On a shorter skirt you may be new length. your pattern able to get away without the At a right pieces in vents. But be warned, skipping angle to the fabric, cutting them on a longer skirt will centre front, two fronts leave you waddling like draw in a new and two backs a penguin! hem position at as you would the lower edge, trouser pieces. extending past the Assemble the bib side seam. and brace portion of the pattern Starting at your base waist following the directions. Topsize, grade out by two sizes stitch decoratively if required.

We strongly recommend at the hip. Do this by gently lengthening the strap piece as blending across the sizes with the supplied pattern piece is a pencil and ruler. Remember rather short! Better to add extra your hip is slightly curved so length then trim it if you don't mirror this shape as you blend need it! out. If you are the last size on For the skirt, construct the the grouped tissue, grade out centre front and centre back by around 1.5cm. This is to

Top tip

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1.5m 60�-wide or 2m 45�-wide stretch denim fabric creates a below knee length dress • set of buckles & buttons • 5⠄8" jean button for side fastening • 7" closed-end zipper • co-ordinating thread • McCall’s 7547

NOTES: See the envelope back and pattern tissue for your pattern size and finished garment measurements

HOW TO MAKE: Once you’ve established your required size you can cut out the bib pieces, straps, waistband and any pocket pieces you wish to use from the tissue.

Cut roughly around the view A/D trouser pieces, leaving as much spare tissue as you can.

On a large work surface begin by altering the front trouser piece. Starting at the centre front, extend the line down by around 22�. Then mark a 1.5cm seam allowance

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Amy says...

Create a new silhouette and draft the skirt portion to your ideal length!

seams, stopping 8" from the hem on each. This offers a good range of movement without being indecent.

Finish the raw edges of the seams and press the seam allowance open.

Top-stitch the vents open on the RS of the skirt pieces.

You can either sew a box about the opening or simply sew a straight distance up the length of the seam.

Sew the side seams, stopping at the zipper notch on the left-hand side.

Finish the lower hem edge and press up the hem allowance by 1.5cm. Top-stitch to secure from the RS. Install the lapped zipper as per the pattern instructions into the opening you left in the side seam.

Add the outer waistband, matching the centre front and back with the corresponding positions on the skirt pieces.

Attach the front and back bib, ensuring the centre front and back match perfectly.

These will be more noticeable on the dress version of the pattern because of the long seams on the skirt.

Press up the lower edge of the waistband to the WS. Position the inner waistband on top of the outer RST and sandwich the bib pieces in between. Pin the upper edge.

Press up the lower edge of the inner waistband to match the outer. Pin the waistband ends.

Sew the upper edge and short ends, joining the two waistbands and enclosing the ends neatly.

Clip the corners and grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Turn through the RS and press flat.

Top-stitch the waistband from the RS to secure the layers and add decoration.

Sew a buttonhole onto the short waistband edge, NOT the longer overhanging side.

Install the button into the waistband overhang in the corresponding position.

Thread buckles onto the strap ends and stitch into position.

Install buttons onto the bib front in the corresponding positions.

Give your dress a final press and you're ready to go!

Top tip

The supplied shoulder strap pattern piece is rather short!

Better to add extra length then you can trim it later if you don't need it!

Shopping list Coral pink stretch denim, ÂŁ7.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

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PATTERN

Making

SHAPES Architectural silhouettes, clever pattern cutting and eye-catching details – these modern patterns have it all

SAVE

25%

at www.ralphpinkpatterns.com with the code LOVEMAG25* before 10th July

Coco trousers

LE 600 blouse

Crisp box pleats placed like a fan at the centre front extend into the clever sleeve construction.

An elongated buttoned keyhole at the back and an elasticated waist finish the eye-catching silhouette. Paper pattern, sizes EU 36-48, £16 www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

The clever cut of these trousers adds extra length to your legs, thanks to the high waist, whilst the loose hip fit is perfect at enhancing silhouettes and creating a flattering figure line.

We love the cut of the pockets and perfect pegged ankles. PDF pattern, sizes 4-16, £10 www.ralphpinkpatterns.com *Discount valid until 10th July 2018. One use per customer

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Amy shirtdress

The tuxedo-inspired Amy updates the classic shirtdress with dual-option gender-neutral buttonholes, an asymmetrical hem, and a trompe-l'oeil bib. PDF pattern, sizes 0-16, $18 www. daughters-of-style. myshopify.com

TPC13 Cape-sleeve jacket

There is a cape sleeve open at the front and a raglan shoulder pad to create a structured shoulder. Sharp panels and a low lapel finish the power look. Paper pattern, sizes 8-16, £25 www.trendpatterns.co.uk

Perth dress & top

This unlined, loosefitting dress and blouse features a folded front, closefitting collar and stand and back yoke. Paper and PDF pattern, sizes EU 36-46, £11.35 or £9.53 www. carolynandcassie. etsy.com

Arenite pants

A slouchy style, the pattern includes dramatic pockets and three leg finishing options – a knit cuff, an elasticated woven cuff or a dressier hem.

PDF pattern, sizes 0-24, $14.95 www. sewliberated.com

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We love

BAGS

Work your

ANGLES MATERIALS & TOOLS: 0.5m main outer fabric 0.5m lining fabric 0.5m fabric for pocket & handles 1m Pellon Shapeflex SF101 woven cotton interfacing • 50cm shop-bought bias binding (optional) • • • •

This slanted pocket tote is a super quick make that packs a wallop. Turn heads with bold clashing fabric Project KATY JONES

A

B

C

CUTTING: From the outer fabric, lining and interfacing, cut: 2 15x18� pieces From the pocket fabric, cut: 15� square From the handle fabric, cut: 2 5x36� strips (you may need to piece shorter lengths to create 36� lengths)

NOTES: A Ÿ� seam allowance has been used throughout unless otherwise stated Finished size approximately 14x17�

HOW TO MAKE: Begin by cutting out the pieces. Interface the outer bag pieces and the pocket piece.

Mark a point 81⠄2� up from the bottom on the lefthand side of the pocket. Cut diagonally from the top right hand corner to the marked point. (See Pic A.) Bind the cut edge, using pre-made binding or make your own using leftovers from the pocket fabric. You do not need to line the pocket; Shapeflex is a fabric-backed interfacing and will provide a self lining. You can line it if you prefer, by simply cutting two pieces, place WST and follow from Step 2, cutting the

diagonal line at the same time as the pocket outer.

Place the pocket in position on the first outer bag piece, making sure all the edges are aligned. (See Pic B). Place the second outer bag piece on top, RS facing down.

Clip or pin well down the two sides and across the bottom. Sew along both sides and the bottom, leaving the top open. Turn RS out and press.

Place the lining fabrics RST and pin across the bottom and both sides. Sew down both sides and across the bottom, leaving a hand-width space open across the bottom for turning late. Again, do not sew the top edge!

Prepare the handles. Cut two pieces of interfacing to 2x36� (if you don’t have the full length, cut smaller lengths and place

end to end on the handles before fixing in place. Make one handle at a time.

Fold the handle fabric along the length, WST and press. Place the interfacing so that it sits in the fold.

(See Pic C.) Fix into place. Fold the edge in along the interfacing, and press. Fold in the opposite edge to match.

Press and top-stitch all the way along, on both sides.

Repeat for the second handle.

Pin the handles on each side of the bag front outer, 11⠄2� in from each side. (See Pic D.) Tack-stitch to the bag.

Place the bag inside the lining, RST and sew around the top, attaching the lining to the bag outer and holding the handles in place. Pull the bag through the hole in the lining, and hand-stitch the opening closed.

Push the lining into the outer bag and give everything a good press to finish!

Katy says...

This tote is super spacious so you can carry everything but the kitchen sink!

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Print

CLASH Picking prints that go together can be a little confusing. Here are the essentials for choosing complementary designs

Shopping list Priory Square You Are Here by Katy Jones for Art Gallery Fabrics and Flock Flying Birds

by Bethan Janine for Dashwood Studio are available from www.misformake.co.uk

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Let fabric designers do the hard work for you! Most collections are created with a set palette that makes them perfect for mixing together. Choose two prints in similar colours but vary the scale and intensity for the best contrast.

When choosing lining fabric, pick something light.

You might think a dark fabric makes more sense as it’s less likely to show marks but it creates a bottomless pit of darkness in your bag!

Something light makes it much easier to find your keys!

You'll want to pick fabrics that have similar weights so the pocket doesn't drag down the bag or feel flimsy in comparison. Stick to medium-weight quilting cotton for the best results.

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The Dressmaker's With Elisalex

DIARY

Give your handmade clothes some extra glitz by trying Elisalex’s hand-beading tutorial

Y

ou would have had to have been living under a rock this past year to have failed to notice embroidery is everywhere. It’s on the high street, walking the catwalk, and Instagram is drenched in embroidery. It’s on jeans, shirts, shoes, bags and even baseball caps. Embroidery – as art and embellishment alike – is back in a bigger way than it was in the 70s. This is great news for me because I love embroidery. I love to stitch it, I love to teach it and I love to look at it. I love it! But some of you might not be so sold on what has firmly cemented itself as a mega trend – perhaps jeans covered in brightly stitched blooms aren’t your bag? I’m guessing you might like things a little sleeker, more polished and not quite so shouty. Well, let me introduce you to embroidery’s sophisticated, more refined older sister: beadwork. Not to be mistaken for the embellishment family’s youngest and flashiest child, bejewelling, beadwork is elegance incarnate. Unlike embroidery, which has strong roots in the thrifty art of visible mending, beadwork is purely and decadently decorative. An ancient art form pre-dating the Ancient Egyptians, beadwork has been used to adorn, tell stories and denote rank throughout the ages, and continues to be a highly covetable couture embellishment technique.

The fact that most beading has to be expertly and painstakingly applied by hand means that it doesn’t, and shouldn’t, come cheap. In fact, if you see a beaded vest in Primark for £6.99 I urge you not to buy it! Even better, take a pic and share it on Instagram and ask the retailer #whomademyclothes. My bet is you won’t be happy with the answer. My point is that beadwork is often overlooked by home sewists as an accessible form of embellishment, when actually it is probably easier for a beginner to produce a beautifully simple beaded design than it is to learn the foundation stitches of embroidery. And the end result can rival even the most exclusive and overpriced of designer pieces!

Beaded eyes by Celeste Mogador

ABOUT ELISALEX

Black top by Francesca Stone of Fall For DIY

Elisalex de Castro Peake is the head of design and co-founder of

By Hand London. An independent pattern company, it produces gorgeously designed, high-quality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com

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W

ith just about any form of embellishment, you can go as bold and bright or as muted and minimalist as you like. Thanks to the wonders of Pinterest and Instagram, inspiration is not only readily available, it’s unavoidable. If it’s monochrome abstract simplicity you’re after, look to Abigail Gardiner. For vivid and colourful beadwork, Celeste Mogador’s insanely gorgeous beaded eyes are a must, and Kevin Germanier’s architectural designs encrusted with beads salvaged from an Indian landfill are stunning. If in doubt, look to classically chic vintage gowns for inspiration and think about using beads the same colour as the garment itself for glittering texture that oozes classic Hollywood glamour.

Thread your hand-sewing needle, securely knot one end and start beading!

Bring your needle through from the wrong side out to the right side where you want to place your first bead.

To fill in an area, as I’m doing here (as opposed to dotting them around individually), instead of sewing each bead on individually, you can pick up a whole string of beads with your needle.

Alternatively, if you’re placing your beads in a more random manner, pick up an individual bead with your needle and anchor it in place by stitching back through to the wrong side. Come back up for the second bead and continue in this way one by one.

Continue until you’ve filled in the area. Try to keep the beads an even distance apart and don’t secure too tightly or the thread may break and undo all your good work!

I’ve used a pot of emerald green bugle beads (long thin glass tubes) and the simplest of designs to embellish a basic white T-shirt that I picked up in my local Oxfam, but you could apply your beading to pretty much anything you want, including your own handmade clothes.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED: • • • • • •

garment to embellish beads of choice fine beading needle, size 10 embroidery hoop (optional) polyester all-purpose sewing thread FriXion pen to draw your design

HOW TO MAKE:

Use couching stitches between each bead to secure the string into place.

To finish, gently blow a warm hairdryer over your beading to remove any visible FriXion pen marks. Voila!

You have a beautiful beaded garment.

Start by mapping out your design with the FriXion pen – the ink disappears with heat, so if you make a mistake or need to get rid of pen marks after you’ve finished, simply blast with a hair dryer or give it a gentle press with your iron.

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SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY BEVERLEY

BEXLEY HEATH

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will ďŹ nd exactly what you are looking for.

Bernina and Janome stockists

CLITHEROE

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

DEVON

CHESHIRE

DUMFRIES

DURHAM

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

R omy ' s S ewing R ooms

The Sewing Room offers several different classes a week, teaching everything from simple machine sewing skills to welt felting to space dying!

We welcome all and urge you to come and get involved!

For all your haberdashery needs.

Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.

180 I rish Street, D umfries, D G 1 2NJ 01387250867

romyssewingrooms@ gmail. com www. facebook. com/ R omyssewingrooms

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

Tel: 01404 815251 julietsquire.wixsite.com/thesewingroom 1 Prospect Place, Hind Street Ottery St. Mary, Devon, EX11 1BP

GRIMSBY

HALIFAX

HAMPSHIRE

HAMPSHIRE

Reads of Winchester From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

Come on in and take a look around!

2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU

Suppliers of sewing machines.

Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

The Fabbadashery

Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings.

Craft Workshops Every Week!

Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950

01472 357800

hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574

www.friarystitch.co.uk

10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

HEREFORD

LINCOLNSHIRE

LONDON

SEW BUSY

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

Unit 18c The Hart Centre, Fleet Road, Fleet GU51 3LA Tel: 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk

LONDON

Badder Fabrics of Hereford

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'!

Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits & Workshops.

Including: Liberty, Kaffe Fassett, Micheal Miller, Riley Blake, Fabric Freedom, Rowan, King Cole, Stylecraft

Sewing workshops

15 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, London, SE22 8EW 02035810909 maria@sammur.com www.reallymaria.com

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Surrey KT8 9HA

Beautiful fabrics and workshops where you will find a warm and friendly welcome.

Shop open 7 days a week 1000s of bolts, books, notions, buttons & beads and bag making accessories Classes & Workshops Secure Online Shopping

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY Unit 66, Basepoint, The Havens, Ipswich IP3 9BF kisquiltingltd@yahoo.co.uk 01473 722888

swansea MERSEYSIDE

LONDON

A Good Yarn A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we

have a large stock of Janome quilting fabrics and Stockist of Brother, & Toyota notions.

FULL SERVICE NOW £40 PRICE We run(NORMAL weekly classes and £60) workshops. also stock wool.

We haveWe a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts No.1 TeiloWe Street available in St store. specialise in Pontarddulais repair and service of machines, with Swansea, SA4 8TH free local pick-up 01792 886and 986delivery.

185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, melanie.1971@live.co.uk Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755

Let us teach you the Art of Sewing.

With a variety of Bespoke Tailoring, Pattern Cutting and Garment Making courses, we can help tailor your sewing future Telephone 07399249471 Facebook SKB Tailoring and Training Centre Email skbtailoring@gmail.com We make learning easy

NORTHALLERTON

NORTHWICH Cheshire

The Sew Easy Sewing Shop

Your NEW one stop sewing shop!

Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.

Need haberdashery in Northwich?

Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products.

80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE

Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY

07952709910

Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

www.seweasysewingshop.co.uk

SCOTLAND

SWANSEA

Hazel’s Fabric Craft

A Good Yarn

WORTHING

10a Main Street West Calder EH55 8DA

A friendly quilting and knitting shop,

• Servicing and repairs on all makes and we have a large stock of quilting models of sewing machines from £40 fabrics and notions.

• Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories We run knowledgeable weekly classesservice and workshops.

• Friendly,

01506 872662 www.hazelsfabriccraft.co.uk hazelsfabriccraft@btinternet.com Facebook Hazels Fabric Craft

We also stock wool.

1 The Broadway, St Teilo Street Brighton No.1 Road Pontarddulais Worthing,Swansea, SA4 8TH BN11 3EG01792 886 986 T: 01903melanie.1971@live.co.uk 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com

Patchwork and Quilting fabrics, notions and workshops.

Open Friday and Saturday or by appointment

WEST SUSSEX

WORTHING

www.creativequilting.co.uk isabelle@creativequilting.co.uk 020 8941 7075

ULVERSTON NORTH DEVON

NORTH YORKSHIRE

www.thelittlekraftshed.co.uk A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics.

Running sewing classes from beginners to patchwork & quilting and lampshade making. Also making unique childrens clothing.

11-12 George Arcade, South Molton, Devon, EX36 3AB, 01769 574071 2 Market Street, Patchwork and quilting LA12 supplies.

Ulverston, 7AY Classes and247workshops.

07742 179 or 07815 691 258 Open 9am - 5pm Monday to Saturday thelittlekraftshed@gmail.com www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk

SCOTLAND

PRESTON HAMPSHIRE ®

www.sewcreative.org.uk

fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, Welcome to my lovely & craft emporium! workshops more We have lots of crafty goodies for sale 20-22 Lavant Street, PETERSFIELD, however support, inspiration and the Hampshire, GU32 3EW service with a smile are free!

T: 01730 858020 Open 9.00am - 5.30pm E: info@sewcreative.org.uk

Monday to Saturday

68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

TAMWORTH

TEWKESBURY

80 Watling St, Wilnecote Tamworth, Staffs, B77 5BJ

to advertise in

call NOUNE on 0161 474 6997

Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting.

Weekly sewing sessions Weekend workshops Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Bespoke commissions undertaken

thesewcialstudio.co.uk

SHEFFIELD

42 www.quiltnow.co.uk

7 High St, Storrington, W Sussex, RH20 4DR 01903 746204

• Servicing and repairs on all makes and models of sewing machines from £40 QN34.P40.indd 42 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories • Friendly, knowledgeable service

We stock a wide variery of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, as well as wools, cottons, and embroidery silks. We also offer an extensive range of haberdashery products.

www.sew-something.co.uk

1 The Broadway, Brighton Road Worthing, BN11 3EG T: 01903 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts.

1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

To advertise please contact Jane on 0161 474 6976 or email jane.bates@ practicalpublishing.co.uk

www.handmadehappyhare.com

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Shop Local

NEWS

Keep up to date with news from your local sewing shop

INCHES FABRICS

39 Parsonage Street, Dursley Gloucestershire GL11 4BP Tel: 01453 54564 Email: caroline@inchesfabrics.co.uk Facebook: InchesDursley

FABRIC & MORE

6 Market Street, Bo’ness Falkirk EH51 9AD Tel: 01506 357805 Email: admin@fabricandmore.co.uk Facebook: Fabric & More Fabric & More is a new independent fabric and haberdashery shop located in Bo’ness, Falkirk. It stocks a wonderful range of fabric, McCall’s and Butterick patterns and sewing notions. The team is introducing a variety of workshops for all skill levels and a sew-by-thehour scheme where you can hire a sewing machine in the workshop space.

Quilting kits are also available to hire.

BECKFORD SILK Beckford, Nr Tewkesbury Gloucestershire GL20 7AU Tel: 01386 881507 Facebook: Beckford Silk www.beckfordsilk.co.uk

This second-generation family business designs, prints and sews silk. The company designs and prints scarves for museum and gallery customers and also prints and dyes silk and velvet that it sells to the public from the shop in Beckford and online. It is open to the public from 9am to 5pm Monday to Saturday. The scarf shop sells scarves, ties and clothing as well as factory scarf ‘seconds’, and the fabric shop offers the largest selection of dyed and printed silk in the UK. There is also The Courtyard Cafe on site that serves light lunches and cakes.

At Inches, there is a great selection of fabric, including some that is just perfect for cushion making. Recent workshops have practised appliqué and free-motion embroidery, as well as making piping and applying cushion zips. Here is one of the brilliant results.

Keep an eye on the Facebook page for up-and-coming workshops.

RACHEL’S TEXTILES STUDIO

47 La Colomberie, St Helier Jersey JE2 4QA Tel: 01534 878877 rachel@rachelstextilesstudio.com Facebook: rachelsTextilesStudio www.rachelstextilesstudio.com Rachel produces her own genuine Jersey exclusive handmade gifts that you will be unable to find elsewhere on the island. Her studio is situated in St Helier and offers excellent facilities with fabulous haberdashery, sewing essentials and lots of exciting fabric.

Sunday 20th May, 10am-12pm

Summer bunting workshop Using ready-cut summery cotton fabric, you will create a length of bunting. You can customise your flags with lettering or your own design or keep them plain.

Flags will be attached to bias binding.

Depending on how fast you can stitch, you will complete four to six flags.

Includes the use of Janome machines, equipment, all materials and refreshments. 10% off any purchases made in the shop whilst at the class.

Competence on the machine is essential. Unsuitable for attendees under the age of 10.

Cost: £36

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READERS'

Suernsdnaupss! yo

£25 TO WIN A

Get in touch letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk

Lorna asked you on Facebook…

DLE FABRIC BUN VA FROM MINER CRAFTS

How do you work best when you’re sewing?

Star make

Jan

“I just loved the fabulous free pattern in issue 39 – McCall’s 7094.

I decided I needed to shorten the back of the shirt tail but otherwise made it strictly to the letter and didn’t need to change anything else.

I just love how it came together, and the masterclass on the precision collar was very timely!”

A: In a group – it’s great to chat to people whilst sewing OR B: Independently – there’s nothing more relaxing than some quiet sewing time

A 17%

Leanne

Leanne has done a wonderful job of creating this chic jacket that was featured in issue 44, we love the fabric she has used.

B 83%

Charmaine

Charmaine look s lovely in her version of th e McCall's 7381 pattern fro m issue 37, she said: "I love the vintage tea dress feel of the pattern. I lengthe ned it by a couple of inche s on the hem and sleeves . I used a gorgeous musta rd yellow fabric. I think I ca n feel a third version callin g...”

Kerryn

We love the fabric that Kerryn has chosen for her version of the Annabelle dress from issue 34, she said: “I made this dress with the Simple Sew pattern that came free with Love Sewing. It was my first time gathering at the waist, making a collar and doing a side-seam zip. Looking forward to making it in a few different colours now. Thanks for the patte rn!”

You said...

Laura: “B. Preferably with a glass of wine and some music!”

Eileen: “B. I get distracted by people around me and invariably end up making mistakes.”

Sue: “Just me, my cat Poppy and music. Heaven.”

Sam: “I love sewing in a group!

You can help each other, chat and I like to see what fabric my friends are using!” www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 79

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ASK THE EXPERTS

THRIFTY

STITCHER This issue Claire-Louise shares her tips for getting a professional-looking shirt front the easy way. Let’s find out how!

This type of button stand/placket isn’t just for men’s shirts though! It’s also super useful for making button-through skirts, like the Zinnia from Collette patterns. It looks so much more polished than a mere double-folded hem edge.

Fairfield Shirt by Thread Theory paper pattern £18, available from www.backstitch.co.uk

Ready to have a go? I’ve used a man’s shirt as an example, which buttons left over right. You’ll need an extension of 4.5cm beyond the centre front of the shirt (button position).

STEP 1 INTERFACING

Press a 3.5cm strip of light interfacing along the front edge.

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier.

We recommend Claire-Louise's latest course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced at £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk

LS53 thrifty.indd 80

T

he look of a crisp shirt front placket or button stand, especially when it’s got that little overlap and both sides are topstitched, is very appealing. Often this is achieved by adding a separate band of fabric to the front edge, which can seem fiddly and creates more cutting, pinning and sewing.

Imagine how excited I was in the first term of my masters to learn an industry trick for a speedy faux placket edge! In fact I can be quoted at the time saying that just this one new skill warranted the £10,000 in fees alone. Thread theory’s Fairfield shirt uses this technique.

24/04/2018 17:05

skill focus SPECIAL STEP 2 CAREFUL FOLDING

Press a 3.5cm fold, then a second 3.5cm fold. Top-stitch along the outer folded edge. I stitched 0.5cm from the edge.

STEP 3 THE MAGIC BIT

Press the double-folded hem towards the front edge. The raw edge is now hidden inside the first row of topstitching, which is now on the right side of the shirt.

Top-stitch the outer folded edge exactly as before.

STEP 4 FINISHING

To finish, press the placket flat from the right side, you can now see two lovely parallel rows of topstitching each side of the faux placket.

When hemming the left side, make the hemming folds a little narrower, eg 2.5cm, that way you won’t see any topstitching when the shirt is buttoned up. In production patterns for fashion there is always a pattern piece for the left and right side to accommodate this.

Zinnia skirt by Colette Patterns paper pattern, ÂŁ10 available from www.craftysewandso.com

Unfold the front and press

Press the second fold

Top stitch

Top stitch

Press the first fold

WS

RS

WS

RS

RS

RS

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We love

STYLE

See yourself in

PRINT Become your own fabric designer with our clever printing tutorial, perfect for making a breezy tunic dress Project JEN HEWETT Photography JEN SISKA

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • tracing paper & pencil • at least ½ cup of ink • block cut to approximately 6x73⁄4" • 2½ yards 44”-wide or 1²⁄3 yards 60”-wide lightweight or mediumweight woven fabric • ¼ yard fusible interfacing • 13” invisible zipper • invisible zipper foot • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LAYPLANS: 44" wide with nap

FOLD E4

E1

E5

HOW TO MAKE:

E3

Trace the template using a #2 or softer pencil and shade in the shape. Place your tracing paper face down on your

E6 E2 E6

SELVEDGE

60" wide with nap

FOLD E4

E1

E3 E2 E6

E6

block and use your finger to rub the image to transfer the graphite. Your block is ready to be carved! (See Pic A.) Carve away anything that is not shaded with a wide blade. Turn your cutting tool so that the blade looks like a 'U' or a 'V'. Rest your index finger on the metal band – this posture helps you create smooth, fluid lines to prevent you from gouging or tearing the block.

To carve, place your cutting tool almost parallel with the surface of the block and use enough pressure to carve at least ¹⁄8” deep. (See Pic B.) There should be a

E5

SIZING: XS

S

M

L

XL

BUST

30"

32"

34"

37"

40"

WAIST

24"

26"

28"

30"

33"

HIP

33"

34"

37"

40"

43"

SELVEDGE

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A

Jen says...

This is a sophisticated yet incredibly comfortable update of my favourite woven dress

B

visible difference between the height of the printing area and original block.

Trim the block around the edge of the image, leaving at least a Ÿ" border between the edge of the image and the edge of the block. Bevel the block edges by carving a 45° angle around its edge.

Using a spatula, scoop out about a tablespoon of ink and place it onto a corner of the inking plate. Use a roller to roll a small amount of the ink from the corner into the centre of the inking plate.

(See Pic C.) Continue until there is a thin layer of ink on the plate and your roller is evenly coated. The ink you’ve rolled out on the plate should make a sticky sound when you roll it, and your roller should be evenly coated but not overloaded with ink.

Evenly coat the block with your roller. Your ink should be light enough so the printing surface of your block is still visible. Place the block onto your cut-out fabric. Press down using the palms of your hands, applying pressure to all parts of your block before removing it. (See Pic D.) You must reapply ink for every print. You may need to add more ink to the middle of the inking plate by pulling a bit more from the ink in the corner. This is a bricked repeat pattern. The horizontal offset is 7�, and the vertical offset is 6½�. The horizontal offset from the first row to the first bricked row is 3½�.

Allow the ink on your fabric to dry, then heat-set it using your iron and following the manufactuer's instructions.

Sew the bust darts on the dress front and press down.

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Top tip

Printing onto cut-out

Then place the front and backs RST and sew the shoulder seams. Using an overlocker or zigzag stitch, finish the seam allowances together and press them toward the back.

Finish each of the pocket pieces along their rounded edges. Place on the dress front, RST, matching the markings and sew the straight edges with a 1⁄2" seam allowance. Repeat the process for the back pocket pieces. Finish the dress side seams and press the pockets away from the body.

Finish the side seams of both sleeves. Then with the dress open and flat, align the midpoint marking on one sleeve to a shoulder seam, RST, and pin. Match the remaining marks with the corresponding marks and pin evenly. Sew in place and using an overlocker or zigzag stitch, finish the seam allowances together and press them down, toward the sleeve. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Arrange the dress RST matching the sleeves, and the pocket pieces and pin.

Starting at the sleeves, sew each side seam ½” past the

ABOUT THE BOOK

Print, Pattern, Sew by Jen Hewett, £25. Reprinted in arrangement with Roost Books, an imprint of Shambhala Publications, Inc

pattern pieces will mean top edge of the you don't print more pocket piece, fabric than you need and back-stitch. and can help you Start sewing visualise the finished again ½” before garment better the bottom of the pocket, and sew to the bottom hem of the dress. Then sew the pockets together at the outer edges.

Position the zipper on the dress RST. Place the top zipper stopper ¼” from the top of the dress, and the side edge of your zipper tape ¹⁄8” from the edge of your fabric. Sew in place with an invisible zipper foot then switch to your regular zipper foot, and continue the seam to the bottom of the dress.

Fuse interfacing to the WS of the neck facings following the manufacturer’s instructions. With RST, sew the facings shoulder seams. Using an overlocker or zigzag stitch, finish the bottom and back side edges of the facing.

Pin the neck facing to the dress neckline RST, matching the shoulder seams. The facing ends will cover the top of the zipper tape. Starting from the bottom of one short facing edge, sew upwards with a ¼" seam allowance. Stop ¼” from the neckline, pivot, then sew the facing to the neckline, again using a ¼" seam allowance. Stop when you are ¼” from the seam allowance on the other side, and again pivot, sewing just to the bottom of the neck facing. Clip and grade the seam allowance then topstitch around the neckline ¼” from the edge.

Fold the dress hem under ¼” toward the WS of the dress and press. Fold the hem under another 1”, and press again. Top-stitch the hem by sewing close to the inside fold.

Hear more about the book on page 36

C

D

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D S N I AM H E BE E S TH

SLOWING DOWN

With Wendy Ward

– the joy of mindful sewing

Relax and enjoy the moment with these smart suggestions for mindful projects and inspiring artists

A

re you always in a rush to finish your latest project? Always thinking about the next two things you’re going to make when you’ve only just started your current one? Is your fabric shopping game miles ahead of your actual sewing game?

It’s so easy to get caught up in the excitement offered by new pattern and book releases, the latest fabric collections and seeing your sewing buddies’ latest projects online. We all do it – yes, including me sometimes!

It’s something I see a lot in my classes, particularly in some of the newer students – the ones who have just started their

Dropcloth sampler, The Original

by Rebecca Ringquist, £14.50, www.shopbeyondmeasure.co.uk

sewing journeys. I get asked that awful question: “How long do you think it will take me to finish?” Honestly it makes me curl up inside when I hear that question.

When someone starts to learn a new skill, their first thought really shouldn’t be – how long before I finish? I don’t know the answer, it depends how careful, neat and precise you are, it depends how much you concentrate and how easily distracted you are, it depends how motivated you are and whether you are prepared to spend time working on your project outside the class.

Regardless of all that, for me, that thought process alone takes away some of the joy of sewing. That joy of repetition, your mind floating off and mulling over those things you never stop to think about properly, the satisfaction in seeing how much you’re improving, the surprise that a few hours have passed in what felt like the space of half an hour, the calm that you feel as you work, the touch and feel of the fabric and the tools you’re working with, the surprisingly open conversations that flow easily with your fellow stitchers. Enjoy the process, then it will feel like you’ve finished in no time.

Recently I’ve been feeling the need to slow down and do more portable hand sewing. It’s something I do simply for the joy of it with no plan for what it might become just to enjoy the

Amy used the Love hoop PDF pattern, £6.77 www.brynnandco.etsy.com

process. Embarking on some hand sewing is also a great opportunity to enjoy investing in beautiful tools that you’ll be handling a lot. I recently bought a gorgeous walnut wood needle case from Beyond Measure and you can get wonderful high-quality Japanese needles made by Tulip. Here are a few ideas for projects and techniques to try for a bit of slow, mindful sewing:

DECORATIVE EMBROIDERY

Decorative stitching is probably what springs to mind when you first think about embroidery. You can see some gorgeous decorative embroidery worked

by Editor Amy (above).

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ABOUT WENDY WARD

Proving English paper piecing even works with jersey fabric!

GIVE IT A TRY There are lots of embroidery classes online – on www.craftsy.com the one that really appeals to me is taught by Natalie Chanin, a long-time advocate of sustainable fashion who uses reverse appliqué to great effect on clothing. Over on www.creativebug.com I find myself wanting to take every class with hand embroiderer Rebecca Ringquist and you can buy kits of her dropcloth samplers at Beyond Measure. The Royal School of Needlework website www.royalneedlework.org.uk has lots of information about classes and exhibitions.

ONLINE INSPIRATION I particularly love the embroidery work of Tilleke Schwartz, it’s like thread doodles or graffiti www.tillekeschwarz.com Some inspiring Instagram accounts to follow are: brynnandcoshop / alabamachanin / riverbirchthreads / dropcloth / mrxstitch

FUNCTIONAL EMBROIDERY

Much traditional embroidery from around the world has evolved from functional stitching, used in repairing textiles. I love honest, visible repairs and I think it can give you a new appreciation for the original garment or item. I recently repaired some jeans, admittedly I did do this on a sewing machine and not by hand, but it was done in that same spirit of making the repair visible and have its own beauty and not simply throwing out the original garment.

The oldest bit of visible mending I have was worked by my dad; visible and life-saving repairs to my old teddy to keep him going when I was a child!

Two traditional forms of this functional type of embroidery or stitching both of which are based around the use of a simple running stitch are kantha and sashiko.

Kantha developed in India and Bangladesh as a simple but decorative means of repurposing old saris into mats and quilts.

Japanese sashiko embroidery developed from traditional boro textiles where simple stitching and patching was used to reinforce and repair clothing in a visible way that celebrated the beauty of the wear and tear that the garments had undergone.

I design my own range of easy-to-follow modern sewing patterns called MIY Collection.

I am a qualified teacher and also have a degree in fashion.

I spent seven years working in the fashion industry before starting to teach dressmaking in 2011 from my own studio called MIY Workshop in Brighton. I have written two books about dressmaking and my third book A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics is out now! www.wendyward.co.uk www.miycollection.com www.miyworkshop.co.uk

GIVE IT A TRY There are a couple of sashiko classes on Creative Bug and a lovely cushion project on www.lovesewingmag.co.uk. There’s less available online for kantha although it is covered in Claire Wellesley-Smith’s wonderful book Slow Stitch: Mindful and Contemplative Textile Art, £22.50 (Batsford Ltd).

ONLINE INSPIRATION Have a look at the inspiring work of Tom of Holland www.tomo olland.com and Celia Pym (who was a finalist in the BBC Woman’s Hour Craft Prize) www.celiapym.com

HAND-SEWN PATCHWORK

English paper-pieced patchwork is the traditional form of hand-sewn patchwork.

Pieces are tacked over paper templates and then accurately hand stitched together.

This technique is great for precise patterns, portable sewing and using up the smallest of scraps in your fabric stash. I recently had a go with some jersey fabric with a very random abstract design and I loved it. Find patterns online or in books if you want to work to an existing design or buy yourself a book of isometric graph paper and go freestyle like I did!

My teddy has survived over the years thanks to handy repairs by my caring dad

GIVE IT A TRY I found one class on Creative Bug to make a traditional hexie design. There are also a lot of books on hand-sewn patchwork, just a couple are: Quilting on the Go by Jessica Alexandrakis and All Points Patchwork by Diane Gilleland.

ONLINE INSPIRATION Inspiring Instagram accounts: qpbetsybetts / lucyengels / magdalenadetz

Find this sashiko cushion template at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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STITCHER'S STORY

Community

FIRST

Kerry Green gives the low-down on Patrick Grant’s sustainable sewing venture Community Clothing, following his inspirational TEDx talk

I

n the same week that we heard about the return of The Great British Sewing Bee, I was lucky enough to see judge Patrick Grant give a TEDxExeter talk in his role as founder of Community Clothing, a social enterprise with the mission to make excellent quality clothing, create jobs for skilled workers and restore pride in Britain’s textile community.

Alongside Community Clothing CEO Lucy Clayton, Patrick shared his vision of how clothing manufactured in Britain can be a success and what that can mean for the communities involved.

Patrick

As a Love Sewing reader, you’ll probably know Patrick Grant as a judge on The Great British Sewing Bee and creative director of Savile Row tailoring business Norton & Sons. He also owns E. Tautz, a high-end men’s ready-to-wear clothing brand and works with Debenhams on the Hammond & Co. menswear collection. Over many years of running his various businesses, Patrick built up a dependable network of British factories and suppliers that produced excellent-quality materials and top-notch sewing and then in 2015

he got a call from one of these factories, Cookson and Clegg in Blackburn, announcing that it was facing heavy losses and was due to close.

He ended up buying the factory, the seed for Community Clothing was sewn and it launched in 2016 following a successful Kick Starter campaign.

From Patrick’s industry experience, he knew that textile manufacture experienced seasonal peaks followed by regular down periods. In the UK, this cycle has impacted heavily on job security, lead to short-term or zero-hour contracts and even factory closures with skilled workers being lost to other industries. Community Clothing took an alternative approach to manufacture. Its goods are made during the times of under capacity. Its aim is to create British-made, affordable, highquality wardrobe essentials for men and women with cost-engineered styling, simple designs, minimal features (no cuffs, flaps, tabs or extra buttons), limited colour range and non-seasonal standardised styles. For high-street clothing, just 25% of the retail price reflects the cost of cloth and manufacture; the remaining 75% pays for marketing, branding, retail costs, and seasonal development.

In comparison, Community Clothing sells direct to Community Clothing offers affordable, high-quality essentials customers through

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ABOUT

Community Clothing The company utilises capacity in quiet periods

its e-Commerce site www. communityclothing.co.uk, thus cutting the 75% and aiming to make top-quality Britishmade garments accessible and affordable to more people.

Patrick in one of his Hammond & Co. shirts for Debenhams

It’s about creating a positive cycle where more business leads to increased reinvestment

Now that Community Clothing has had time to establish itself, it wants to concentrate on making ‘made in UK’ mean exactly that, with a UK supply chain. For wool, this been achieved quickly, as specialist manufacturers were available for each production stage. Cotton has proved a greater challenge, but the recent opening of a brand new spinning mill, English Fine Cottons in Dukinfield near Manchester, equipped with the latest technologically advanced machinery, has meant that cotton is being spun in the UK for the first time in over 30 years. Community Clothing now has a complete UK supply chain for cotton textiles with a 136-mile journey from receiving raw cotton fibre to producing finished T-shirts. The new Oxford shirts (due soon) will also be spun, dyed, woven and finished in the UK. Community Clothing’s product range evolves with gradual additions – colour variations, new garments – but the core notion is consistent, reliable style. It provides the opportunity for more of us to buy British-made high-quality wardrobe essentials, support local communities - especially in the northwest – and feel happy in what we wear.

Discover more about Patrick Grant and Community Clothing at www. communityclothing.co.uk. You can follow the latest updates on Facebook at www. facebook.com/communityclothinguk, Instagram @community_clothing and Twitter @commclothing

There’s something for every budget, from £2.50 for a pair of everyday socks to £139 for the new Women’s Trench. This recent addition was inspired by classic military clothing and given a modern makeover.

Using cotton woven in Rochdale, it’s sewn in a Blackburn factory that’s made raincoats for the British Army for over 70 years as well as sewing rainwear for other famous, luxury British brands.

As a social enterprise, Community Clothing aims to plough profit back into the business, especially in Lancashire, once the biggest textile producing area in the world! It’s about creating a positive cycle where more business leads to increased reinvestment, funding apprenticeships for young people, securing jobs and keeping the workforce strong and dynamic for future generations.

Patrick wants 'made in the UK' to mean exactly that

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We love

HOME

PURRFECT MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 65x94cm Duck Egg Blue felt for background • 65x94cm medium-weight fusible interfacing • 25cm bonding web • 30x25cm bright pink felt (cat) • 8x8cm orange felt (flower outer) • 3x3cm yellow (flower inner) and black felt (eyes and nose) • rickrack • 1 skein black & bright orange cotton hand-embroidery thread • air-erasable marker or pencil • hand-embroidery needle • template downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

stitching

Who doesn’t need a cat permanently curled up in their sewing room? With this machine cover you will always have a feline friend to keep you company Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

A

B

C

D

E

F

CUTTING: For the sewing machine cover, cut: • Template 1 & 3 – cut two pieces • Template 2 – cut one piece • Fuse the interfacing to the reverse of each piece

NOTES: Seam allowance of 5mm is included except where otherwise stated

FINISHED SIZE: 40x30x17cm

HOW TO MAKE: Make a 2cm hem at the lower edge of the front, back and side panels (three) at the wider edge.

APPLIQUÉ Trace the appliquÊ templates onto bonding web then fuse to their respective coloured felt.

Cut out the shapes and arrange in position on the front felt piece. Fix in place with a hot iron (it’s advisable to cover the pieces with a

lightweight fabric cloth to avoid the felt melting or the pieces shifting as you fuse them).

Machine-sew around the cat in matching thread close to the edge. (See Pic A.) Hand-stitch the eyes and nose and, using a chain stitch,

sew on the cat’s eyelids and mouth. Sew the whiskers as shown on the diagram using a running stitch. You can reduce the thickness of the thread by pulling out two strands one at a time.

(See pics B to D.)

Mark out the tail and paw with the marking pen and stitch the line with a handsewn chain stitch.

Hand-stitch the outer rim of the inner flower, stem and down the centre of each leaf with a running stitch.

Fiona says...

This machine cover was inspired by my own cat Mabelline and her cheeky personality. I love the pop of bright colours together

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Blanket

STITCH

Top tip

The thread should be no longer than your forearm – any longer and you'll get tangled up!

Sew the rickrack across the front lower edge to cover the hemline stitching.

(See Pic E.) ASSEMBLY Draw a line along the centre of the top panel with an invisible fabric marker as shown on the template. (See Pic F.) Cut along this line to make

G

the opening in the top panel (two) for the handle.

Using the orange embroidery thread and needle hand stitch a blanket stitch around the cut opening in the top panel.

(See Pic G.) Pin the side panels to top edge at short sides RST. Sew a 1cm seam. Press seam open.

Mark the centre points of each panel and the top using pins. (See Pic H.)

H

Pin front panel at three un-hemmed sides to top and side panel RST, matching the pin points, then working around the sides.

Tack-stitch then sew a 5mm seam all around. Press the seams open.

Pin the back panel to the other side of the side and top panel and sew as before. Press seams open. (See Pic I.) As felt doesn't fray, there's no need to neaten the raw edges! Simply turn RS out.

I

Here's an easy method to sew a neat knot at the end of your work

Work from left to right.

Bring needle up at 1, down at 2 and up at 3, keeping the thread looped under the needle.

Pull the thread through and shape the stitch as desired.

Repeat multiple stitches until complete.

For an even line of stitching keep the height of the stitches even throughout.

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Sewing & Craft Workshops in Manchester & Didsbury ministryofcraft.co.uk

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FABRIC

1

2

3

Life’s a

BEACH 4

6

This stunning collection by Feena Brooks reminds us of days at the coast with the sand beneath our toes and sunny skies above

5

7

8

Fabric shopping Whitehaven ivory cotton Metcombe navy cotton Aynho Weir grey cotton New Lane gold cotton Metcombe pink cotton St Bees blue cotton New Lane coral cotton Whitehaven navy cotton For your local retailer visit www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist and search by fabric name or collection www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 95

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Plus much more!

Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P Scrap-busting special with the FABSCRAP initiative P Raglan frill everyday tee P Fabric retreat sewing kit P Join our new jeans sew-along tunique et robe HAUTS, TUNIQUE ET ROBE : Hauts, tops, et variations de manche. A: TOPS, TUNIC AND DRESS: Pullover par la tête, à élastique sur les épaules shoulders and sleeve à passer d’ourlet en forme. tunic, and dress have elastic on Ligne C: y Bretelles. túnica hemline.

JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: Tops, variations. A: Straps. C: Shaped TOPS, TÚNICA Y VESTIDO PARA con elástico en los hombros y variaciones vestido para ponerse por la cabeza, dobladillo con forma. de manga. A: Tiras. C: Línea de M), ZZ(G/G-TG/XG-TTG/XXG) Séries/Combinaciones: Y(TP/XP-P/P-M/ Cotonnade, Etamine, Satinette.

TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Chambray, de Combinations: Y(XS-S-M), ZZ(L-XL-XXL) Mezclas de algodón, Chalís, Satén Cotton Blends, Challis, Sateen.

TELAS SUGERIDAS: Chambray, SUGGESTED FABRICS: Chambray, algodón.

TG/XG TTG/XXG G/G M/M P/P TAILLES/TALLAS TP/XP 24-26 XXL XL 12-14 16-18 20-22 L 8-10 M 4-6 S XS m SIZES 1.50 1.50 24-26 1.30 1.20 16-18 20-22 1.20 12-14 1.20 8-10 4-6 A 115cm*** m 1.20 Yds. 1.00 1∫ 1.00 1∫ 1.00 1∑ 1.00 1≤ 1.00 1≤ 1≤ 150cm** m A 45"*** " 1.90 1.90 1≤ 1.90 1 1.40 1 1.40 1 1.30 1 1 B 115cm*** 60"*** m 1.30 Yds. 1.30 2 1.30 2 1.30 2 1.30 1∞ 1.30 1∞ 1∑ 150cm*** m B 45"*** " 2.80 2.70 1∑ 2.60 1∑ 2.60 1∑ 2.10 1∑ 1.90 1∑ 1∑ C 115cm*** 60"*** m 1.90 Yds. 1.90 3 1.90 2π 1.90 2≥ 1.60 2≥ 1.60 2≤ 2 150cm*** m C 45"*** " 2.60 2.60 2 2.60 2 2.00 2 2.00 2 2.00 1≥ 1≥ D 115cm*** 60"*** m 2.00 Yds. 2.00 2≥ 2.00 2≥ 1.60 2≥ 1.60 2∂ 1.50 2∂ 2∂ 150cm*** D 45"*** pour D. " 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ de 2cm: 1.40m pour A, B, C, 2.30m 1≥ Élastique D: 1≥ C, B, A, 1∫ MERCERIE: 60"*** para D. D. de 2cm: 1.40m para A, B, C, 2.30m 1∞ yds. for A, B, C, 2∞ yds. for MERCERÍA: A, B, C, D: Elástico NOTIONS: A, B, C, D: ≥" Elastic: DE LA PRENDA ACABADA MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS de busto Mesure à la poitrine/Contorno cm 131 121 110 100 92 87 A, B, C, D Ins. 51∞ 47∞ de caderas Mesure aux hanches/Contorno cm 146 136 126 116 107 102 C, D " 57∞ 53∞ caderas Largeur à l’ourlet/Contorno de cm 146 136 126 116 107 102 A, B cm 160 150 140 130 121 116 C cm 161 151 141 131 122 117 D la nuca l’ourlet/Largo de espalda desde Longueur - dos, votre nuque a cm 61 59 58 57 55 54 A, B cm 86 85 83 82 81 80 C cm 99 98 97 95 94 93 D

M7543

23≥ 33≥ 39

23≤ 33≤ 38∞

57∞ 63 63∞

53∞ 59 59∞

" " "

" " "

or Without Nap *With Nap **Without Nap ***With

*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec

Pelillo ***Con o ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin

Sin Pelillo

M7543

TS FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMEN Measurement at bustline 43∞ 39∞ 36 34 A, B, C, D Measurement at hipline 49∞ 45∞ 42 40 C, D Width, lower edge 49∞ 45∞ 42 40 A, B 55 51 47∞ 45∞ C 55∞ 51∞ 48 46 D Back length from base of neck 22≥ 22≤ 21≥ 21≤ A, B 32≥ 32≤ 31≥ 31≤ C 38 37∞ 37 36∞ D

B

A

McCall's 7543 Top, tunic & dress

See page 26 for our subscriber offer

C

D

B

A

C

D

Marca Registrada Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Copyright© 2017, The McCall Pattern not for commercial or manufacturing interdite.

Sold for individual home use only and commerciale ou industrielle strictement Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation

M7543_ENV

Y/ ZZ

(Xsm-XXL) (4 -26)

C

Size Taille Talla

A D B

M7543

D

A

worth £8.95 EDIDAS DEL CUERPO XXL BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/M XL L M S XS SIZES 24-26 20-22 16-18 12-14 8-10 4-6 46-48 Ins. 42-44 38-40 29∞-30∞ 31∞-32∞ 34-36 Bust 39-41∞ Ins. 34-37 30-32 26∞-28 24-25 22-23 Waist 48-50 Ins. 44-46 40-42 31∞-32∞ 33∞-34∞ 36-38 Hip 17≥-18 Ins. 15≥-16 16≤-16∞ 16≥-17 17≤-17∞ Back Waist Length 15≤-15∞ TG/XG TTG/XXG G/G M/M P/P TP/XP TAILLES/TALLAS 24-26 20-22 16-18 12-14 8-10 4-6 97-102 107-112 117-122 cm 87-92 80-83 75-77 Poitrine/Busto 99-105 cm 87-94 76-81 67-71 61-64 56-58 Taille/Cintura 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm 92-97 85-88 80-83 Hanches/Caderas Longueur dos/Largo espalda 44-44.5 45-45.5 cm 39-39.5 40-40.5 41.5-42 42.5-43

PATTERN! M7543

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

FREE T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

Next month in

4-26 Sizes

ISSUE 54 ON SALE 31ST MAY 2018

NO-PATTERN SHIBORI WRAP Adorable appliqué

CUSHION

Pretty patchwork

SLEEP MASK

BONUS! template sheet included

Lovely linen

A-LINE DRESS y Gardiner Top tips and techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie P Expert guidance from Wend P In-depth articles from Wendy Ward P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro Peake P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Behind the scenes with Jade Earley *All contents subject to change.

Next Issue.indd 97

24/04/2018 16:29

We love

HOME

Hold the

PHONE The classic red telephone box, a very British icon, makes a quirky mobile phone cover!

Project AME VERSO

Top tip!

MATERIALS & TOOLS: FQ red felt fusible web scraps patterned fabric scrap black thread inkjet-friendly fabric, computer & printer OR scrap of white felt • 3.5cm cotton ribbon • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk • • • • •

CUTTING: • 2 phone box templates from red felt • 1 window template from patterned fabric • 1 sign template from inkjet-friendly paper

HOW TO MAKE: Check the size of your phone against the template and scale up as necessary to fit, using a photocopier or in your printer settings.

Copy the phone box template onto felt and cut out twice. Draw an 8.5x6.5cm rectangle onto fusible web, iron onto the back of your patterned fabric and cut out. Peel away the backing paper and iron the rectangle onto one of the felt phone box pieces.

Machine-stitch round the edges of the patterned rectangle, using black thread. Add two extra vertical lines of stitching and two horizontally to create a windowpane effect. Stitch over all lines a second time to create an optional sketchy look.

Print the word ‘TELEPHONE’ onto an inkjet-friendly fabric sheet, using a simple, elegant font. It should measure roughly 6x1cm.

Don't worry about being too neat, as the sketchy lines give the phone box character!

Alternatively you can copy the text onto a scrap piece of white felt.

Cut out, leaving a narrow border around the word.

Stitch into place on the felt phone box, just above the patterned fabric rectangle.

Again using black thread, stitch twice round the top part of the felt phone box, as marked on the template.

Cut a 3.5cm piece of ribbon and fold it in half. Pin to one side of the felt phone box piece, just below the stitched section.

Pin the decorated felt piece to the plain one, so the ribbon ends are sandwiched in between.

Sew along the sides and

bottom edge to join the two pieces together a few mm in from the edge and using a double line of stitches, as before. Pop in your phone and you’re ready to go!

ABOUT THE BOOK

50 DIY Gifts: Fifty handmade gifts for creative giving

by Ame Verso, ÂŁ9.99 David and Charles

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SPRING 2018

AVON

• Direct Sewing Machines, Bristol – 0117 9778216

BEDFORDSHIRE

• BSK Limited, Bedford – 01234 217096 • My Sewing Basket, Dunstable – 01582 969571 • Tudor Rose Patchwork, Oakley, Bedford – 01234 824983

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• Sew Devine, Reading – 0118 926 8664

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AMAZING SPRING OFFERS!

£99 – £999

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MANCHESTER (GTR)

• Bamber Sewing Machines, Manchester – 0161 707 7786 • R. Bullock & Son Ltd, Wigan – 01942 247836

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• The Sewing Studio, Redruth – 01209 216942

• Affordable Sewing, Moreton, Wirral – 0151 677 7755

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• Cresswell Sewing Machines, Leicester – 07798 625 278 • The Sewing Café, Hinkley – 01455 698 034

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• Couling Sewing Machines, Lincoln – 01522 521841 • L & C Fabrics, Cleethorpes – 01472 600 874 • Seweezy, Gainsborough – 01427 614570

LONDON (GTR)

• All Redgewell Sewing, South West London – 0208 3373444 • Lewisham & Deptford Sewing Machines, Deptford – 0208 692 1077 • SM Sewing Machines Ltd, London – 0208 4524257 • The Sewing Centre, Battersea – 0207 228 3022 • The World of Sewing, Pratts Bottom – 01689 638638 • Wimbledon Sewing Machine Co Ltd, Tooting Bec – 020 8767 0036

www.janome.co.uk

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NEW MODEL

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BRAND NEW

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• All Surrey Sewing, Worcester Park – 0208 3373444 • C & A Sewing Machines, Cranleigh – 01483 267777 • Woking Sewing Centre, Addlestone – 01932 352606

OFFER

£259

SEWIST 725S Easy to use...Make the right choice first time!

• Clothkits Ltd, Chichester – 01243 533180 • Eclectic Maker, Worthing – 01903 681000 • Hastings Sewing Centre, Hastings – 01424 423108

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WEST MIDLANDS

• Brewers Sewing Machines, Wolverhampton – 01902 458885 • D C Nutt Sewing Machines, Walsall – 01922 497603 • Frank Nutt, Kings Heath – 0121 444 3978 • L & M Nutt, Sutton Coldfield – 0121 373 5497 • S Nutt Sewing Machines, Birmingham – 0121 327 2828

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• Rachel’s Textiles Studio, Jersey – 01534 878 877

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IRELAND

• Sew N Knit Belfast, Belfast – 028 9045 6015 • Sew N Knit Lisburn, Lisburn – 028 9267 0908 • Singer Sewing Centre, Ballymena – 028 2564 0034

SCOTLAND

• Aberdeen Sewing Machines, Aberdeen – 01224 478555 • Abbey Sewing Machines, Dumfries – 01307 249 580 • David Drummond, Edinburgh – 0131 539 7766 • ESC, Fochabers – 01343 823961 • Pembertons Sewing Machines, Stirling – 01786 462993 • Quilt Creations, Inverness – 01463 719369 • The Sew Studio, Dunfermline – 01383 621894

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• Butterfly Fabrics, Cardiff – 02920 470808 • Cliffords Sewing Machines Ltd, Swansea – 01792 655 928 • J & B Sewing Machine Co Ltd, Cardiff – 02922 402418 • Newport Sewing & Craft Centre, Newport – 01633 284646 • Sewing Machines Direct, Wrexham – 01978 851 235 The ‘Sewing with Style’ offers are available from Janome sewing machine retail outlets nationwide. Promotion starts 3rd April until 4th June 2018. (All offers subject to stock availability).

The world’s leading sewing machine manufacturer

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